(Part 2) Best audio cables according to redditors
We found 8,407 Reddit comments discussing the best audio cables. We ranked the 1,831 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
![Mediabridge 16AWG Ultra Series Speaker Cable with Dual Gold Plated Banana Tips (6 Feet) - CL2 Rated - High Strand Count Copper (OFC) Construction - Black [New & Improved Version] (Part# SWT-06B)](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41OPX07mV3L.jpg)
Quick list of what you are looking at
KEF Q100 ($250)
Micca AD250 DAC/Amp ($100)
Micca speaker wire ($20)
Dayton SUB-1000 ($120)
3.5mm to RCA cable (for sub) ($8)
Total: $498
This would be a solid, solid setup for really fantastic value.
And don't be like every other neophyte here and just JAM the speakers super close together on your entertainment unit... you need to get your bookshelves about as far apart from each other, as you are sitting from them... so get some stands too.
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These are affordable and adjustable.
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Something like this would be what you are looking for.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T8HWUVS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_2eyIwb7BGSKM4
These are the definitive budget studio monitors over on /r/BudgetAudiophile. I have the lsr308s and wish I got these. The 308s are fuckin huge! But they have the same sound as the 305s just with... more power. I keep my 308s dialed at 4/10 volume and then adjust with my ampdac.
Don't use adapter cables for these. Use high quality direct cables because I got nasty hiss/feedback when using adapters and even direct cables that were cheap. I believe I ended up with these and they're decent. I still get some feedback but that seems dependant on which power socket I used. Using a crowded socket or having my cables run near a bunch of other cables seems to make it worse.
Then choose your quality level with a corresponding budget:
Lowest entry level mini amp and speakers: $50 6-1/2" 2-Way Bookshelf Speaker Pair and Hi-Fi Mini Amplifier Bundle.
A step up mini amp and speakers: $120 SMSL SA-36A $52 with Dayton Audio B652-AIR 6-1/2" with AMT Tweeter speakers $52 with Speaker Wire and wire tool.
Receiver and better speakers: Around $300 to $400. Look for similar used for the best value.
Receiver: Refurbished with a 1 year manufacturer warranty.
Stereo: ONKYO TX-8220 $135, or ONKYO TX-8140 $200.
Or AV: For use with a TV even with just 2 speakers, 4K HDMI switching, high pass crossover for your speakers if ever adding a subwoofer.
Speakers: Recommendations from AverageJoeAudiophile and r/HTBuyingGuide.
Speaker wire: Pure Copper Oxygen Free 16 Gauge Speaker Wire 50 ft. and self adjusting wire strippers, optional banana plugs to add. Or already with banana plugs, Micca or DFWCableConnection.
Speaker stands: Dayton Audio SSMB24, Monoprice Glass or Monolith by Monoprice and Audio Advisor where most are also available at Amazon.
OR KEEP GOING UP? .....
Also an optional Subwoofer on sale: 10" Infinity SUB R10 Reference Series
$399$140 flash sale.Guides:
Home Audio: Intro to home stereo systems • Introduction to Audio Components | Lifewire • Zeos Tutorials, Diagrams and Videos • Guide to Home Audio • AverageJoeAudiophile's Guides
Home Theater: r/HTBuyingGuides FAQ • How to Set Up a Basic Home Theater System - Lifewire • How to Set Up Your Home Theater Receiver • r/hometheater
Speaker Positioning: Speaker Placement for Stereo Music Listening • How to position your speakers for great sound • Speaker Placement for Home Theater
TV Positioning: Vertically centered at eye level while seated
So for those of you who wanted a parts list and a cost breakdown here it is...some of these costs might be a little rough but I'll get close.
I don't think I missed anything, so that should be about it. I already had the glue, stain, Deft and tools to complete the project which was pretty great. Not to mention free wood so for any of your projects factor those things in. For those of you asking about the crossovers and those component they are included in the Parts Express kit along with detailed instructions. The total came to $395.34 but I had some materials left over for use on future projects so I would actually say its a little less. Additionally, I found the SMSL Q5 on sale from Parts Express so it came out to only $84.00 so that cut costs a lot I just couldn't find a link with that price, this build happened about a month ago.
Yes, your way will. See my second solution.
One way to do it:
Turntable PC
| |
Preamp DAC
+----Switch---+
|
Vali2
|
Preout--+--HeadphoneOut
| |
Speakers Headphones
When it comes to the switch, if you want a pretty silver one to match your Vali2 and Modi2, the Schiit SYS passive preamp will do the job. It will also give you a nice volume knob to use with powered speakers.
As for outputs, I believe your Vali 2 will switch between them depending on whether headphones are plugged in. If you want to be able to use both for whatever reason or want to be able to use your speakers without unplugging headphones, want to be able to use them without turning on headphone amp, etc., then use a Y splitter infront of the headphone amp, giving you:
Turntable PC
| |
Preamp DAC
+----Switch---+
|
Y splitter
| |
Vali2 Speakers
|
HeadphoneOut
|
Headphones
I used to run this exact setup, but I moved my turntable to another system. So now I just use the Schiit SYS that I have no need for anymore instead of a Y splitter. If you keep the volume up, you can use it to switch between two outputs with the button on the front. There are cheaper tools to do this, and I would suggest the Y splitter if you go this way.
I don't think that's what they recommend doing over at /r/cordcutters/
This will get you back up and running: https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-Subwoofer-Cable-Feet/dp/B003FVYXY0
You only need a MIDI cable if you want to send MIDI messages to the Volca to automate actions or control parameters.
For audio, just look on amazon for a 1/4" to 1/8" TRS or TS cable. Hosa makes some cheap ones.
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMS-110-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O36/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1543511670&sr=8-9&keywords=1%2F4+to+3.5mm+trs+cable
Here are some thoughts on this.
Here are a few options to consider.
There is no catch and they'll work fine. $300 speaker cables are bullshit. Keep in mind you'll have to buy two for a pair of speakers. I've even used the crappy copper-clad aluminum stuff without issue.
For reference, I've used these Mediabridge cables sold through Amazon and they work fine.
Neither do proper round profile cables.
This one is cheap and I have a few of them. They're great quality.
Yes, you run the subwoofer pre-out to the line in of the subwoofer using subwoofer cable. What's your current setup and budget for a subwoofer? The PSW10 isn't really a great sub. Something like the Dayton Sub-1200 would be better for not that much more.
> Looking for the best sound $400 can buy, for music.
If you want the best sound money can buy, you're not looking for 2.1. I can't stress this enough - even if you DIY it, getting a good sub is easily going to cost $400 alone. And even if you do stretch your budget, to accomodate for a sub, a 2.0 system will sound more coherent, and be far easier to live with. Plus, with good speakers, you are not really going to miss a sub.
In your price bracket, and with active speakers as a requirement, you are effectively looking at studio monitors.
I am curious about your intended use - is it primarily when seated in front of a computer?
First Emotiva AirMotiv 4 - Review here - you will need stands for these, bringing the total up to about $400 - stands can either be DIY-ed from a bit of PVC pipe and a few pieces of wood in about an afternoon for about $40, or bought from anything between $50-80.
What kind of stands you will need, and their height will vary with the answer to the question above about intended use. If you primarily intend to use it in front of a computer, then a pair of stands placed on the desk (10-12 in), or taller floor stands (40-45 in) is the correct height. If you plan on enjoying music from the couch, then floor stands of 28-32 inches are the right option. Assuming what you need is for near-field office desk use, here is a decent pair of stands (And are the same stands as in my next item
KRK Rokit RP6 - bundle with stands. If you hang around any music or producer forum, many authors will have these as their go-to budget recommendation, and they are well-liked across the board.
If you don't already have it, both proposals need a 2xRCA to 2x1/4 TS cable, like this
For reference, I use neither of my two recommendations as my near-field budget monitors - the M-Audio BX5 D2 are what I use, and if you would rather get away with less than $400, they are pretty terrific. Also, differing prices in Norway, and in the case of the Emotivas, prohibitive shipping costs, makes the value propositions somewhat different - a kit with the KRK's and floor stands are $650 here, while I got my BX-5's for $300. With this being my secondary system, I'm personally not willing to spend much more than I did, until I feel I can splurge and get myself a pair of Genelec 8040A.
Final note: Yes, these are all classified as "studio monitors", and there is an ages-old misconception that studio monitors aren't good for casual listening. As noted, that is a misconception - studio monitors work exceptionally well, even for casual listening.
Refurbished Yamaha RX-V473B 5.1 Receiver $299.95 (Free Shipping)
Monoprice Premium 5.1-Ch Home Theater System ~$270.00 w/ shipping
Monoprice speaker stand pair $15.01 (included shipping above)
100ft AmazonBasics 16-gauge speaker wire $9.43
15ft RCA Cable $9.99
Total = $604.38
I bought 12 of these:
Hosa CMP-110 1/4 inch TS to 3.5mm TRS Mono Interconnect Cable, 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O3D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ldebAbEFP38JY
EDIT: Corrected diagram based on suggestions below.
Made your solution plan into a diagram for clear graphical representation. The cables needed that Destiny probably doesn't have/didn't order yet:
Rca splitters or selectors. Super cheap ones on Amazon, or shell out a bit more for a nicer one.
Like this: Hosa YRA-104 RCA to Dual RCAF Y-Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O4Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JOz7xbWBZ5BPZ
Or: Fosmon Technology 3-Way Audio / Video RCA Switch Selector / Splitter Box & AV Patch Cable for Connecting 3 RCA Output Devices to Your TV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HNCPR92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_yPz7xbR6BCQ6B
Nicer: Four Input Source Tabletop Control Switch Box Internal Pc Board Design Metal Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0056EK7Q2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-Qz7xbAK8CJFZ
Done new afraid to get one made for AV, there's no difference. You just won't use the video rca jack.
I love it. I personally have the black pair. Be prepared for that cable to break though. Here is a link to a good one just in case. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LTEUDO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
There are lots of options. I bought this when i bought my X1. It has served me well.
What exactly is wrong with the AUX cord? Sometimes the ends of the cable can wear out after prolonged use and whatever signal (music) is being sent through the wire it will cut in and out of the input device it's plugged in to, in this case your car input.
If I were you, I would buy a new cable and see if that helps. They are only $5. Much cheaper than a stereo repair. Try that first. Worst case scenario you'll have a backup cable and still a broken head unit. Best case scenario you save a lot of money.
If the new cable doesn't work, then it could be the actual Aux input on the head unit worn out with a broken resistor. Luckily, Toyota made these specific inputs replaceable. Old one will unplug and pop out, and new one will plug in and fit right in. You can find OEM replacements here.
SOURCE: I don't have a Camry but I do have Google.
Amplifier
PA horn
CB to Amp cable (standard 3.5mm aux cable)
You’ll need speaker wire to run from the Amp to the PA and you’ll need to power the amp somehow. They sell an AC to DC power supply but if installing in a 12VDC vehicle you can run 12v to it directly but you’ll just need the barrel connector / plug end. You can buy those on amazon as well or if you have access to electronic scraps or spare laptop power supplies you can hack one off there and wire it to your system.
To use the speaker without the amplifier, not sure how loud it would be, probably not very because the CB can only put out like 12-15 Watts on PA, you can use this cable to hook the speaker to the CB
Hope that helps.
Awesome.
So, you'll want something like this. It has a 3.5mm jack out and supports tons of streaming services as well as bluetooth. If you can find a chromecast audio anywhere, that might even be better, especially if you don't need to talk to it.
For speakers, these ascend acoustics will be your best bet. They're awesome speakers, with detailed highs and plenty of low end extension.
If they'll be close to a wall, or if you'd just rather order from amazon, these elacs are fantastic speakers. The front port means you can put them close to the wall, so that won't be a problem. They're a very easy to listen to speaker IMO. I have them and I like them a lot.
These monitor audio speakers will sound a bit better (better detail, tighter midrange, etc) but will have a bit less low end extension.
These by HSU might be a gamble. Reviews are scarce, but the ones that are out there are great. Mine aren't here yet so I can't give you any more info than that. Sorry.
Last one (and my personal favorite) is a pair of kef q150. Stunning details, low and tight bass, amazing vocals, the whole 9. They'd be closer to the top of your budget, but they are absolutely fantastic speakers. I really like them a lot.
That budget is kinda in a 'no mans land' for speakers. It's between where the 'budget' speakers are and where the 'high end' speakers start, if that makes sense. Those are pretty much all the ones in that price range, but those are some pretty solid options.
You'll need a way to power them as well.
If you don't have tons of space, a little chip amp could do the trick. I've got a bunch of those and they're all great, but not the best.
Your next best bet would be a 2 channel receiver. Even better, if you're okay with refurbished, a Denon receiver would be great.
To connect the speakers to the receiver/amp, you'll need speaker wire. You can cut it and strip it with a knife or scissors, but this will make the job easier.
Oh, and you'll need this to connect the echo to the receiver. And this one if you go with the chromecast audio.
How does this all look?
The Chromecast Audio's 3.5mm jack doubles as an optical digital output. You could use this cable and connect it to your receiver and let the receiver act as the DAC. That would be better than using bluetooth and better than using a 3.5mm to RCA cable (which would mean the Chromecast Audio's DAC is used).
Sure, it's possible. Just get a replacement jack or cable form your nearest parts store. I don't know your location,but for example you can get one here or here. Or you can buy a cable similar to this , cut one of connectors and replace your damaged cable.
You will also need a soldering iron, thin solder wire and possibly some thermal shrinking tube. You can buy all that in the nearest hardware store.
> seating for 8 persons
That means you have seating off to the side, likely diagonally, correct? What this means is that you should get bipole/dipole/radiators for your side-surrounds, and place them centered between each "row of seating" (if it's additional couches instead of seats, put them centered based on distance from furthest seating to closest seating), a pic/drawing of the room would help. Good ones that'll fit in your budget are these bipoles ($120) or its bigger brothers, this one ($150) or this one ($200, I have these, got them $100 on sale from Walmart, currently normal priced).
> I preferred the quality of Klipsch
As for your front 3 speakers, two options I have would be Klipsch, or the same company as those bipoles. For Klipsch, there are these bookshelves + matching center ($340); for Fluance, they don't have a matching center for their SX Series, so you can mix and match, or not get their SX Series, their most expensive series (Signature) bookshelves + center would be $350, so similar price to the Klipsch's, their 2^nd highest model line bookshelves + center would be $270.
For your back-surrounds, are you wall-mounting? If your are, you will want front-ported speakers. Ones that I can recommend are these Sound Appeals ($70), or actually Fluance's top 2 model lines, you can get the Signature Series ($200) or their XL7 Series ($150). You don't want dipole/dipole/radiators for back-rears, as the sound dispersion wouldn't be good (null zones or amplified zones)
Now, that brings us to the subwoofer. If you were talking like 3-4, maybe 5 people, you could just get 1 sub, however, since you are talking 8 people, you definitely want 2 subs. The reason for that is a subwoofer has sweet spots, and an 8-person seating area is definitely too large. With the speakers I recommended, if you went on the most expensive of my recommendations, that would leave us with ~$750 to play with. I would recommend two of these ($660 total)
or two of these ($740$865 total, too expensive).Now, I'm guessing you'll also need speaker wire. I'd recommend getting at least 16 gauge (lower the # the better), and if you are going in-wall, get oxygen-free. Speaker wire is cheap, here is 100ft of 14 gauge oxygen-free speaker wire. Now, I'd also suggest getting open-screw banana plugs (likely wont fit on any speakers you are wall-mounting), just to save on some frustration with connecting the speaker wire to the speakers/receiver, I bought 2 orders of these ($16 total), they connect like this. You will also want 2 subwoofer cables (RCA's with better insulation), I bought 1 order AmazonBasics in 15ft for $9 ($18 total for you), they also come in 25ft ($20 total, so better safe than sorry). If you don't know how to place a subwoofer, here is /u/zeospantera's tutorial.
Get an Amazon Basics subwoofer cable https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Subwoofer-Cable-15-Feet/dp/B01D5H8GYG/
Cables at BestBuy are always overpriced.
The JBL LSR305 expects line level inputs via balanced XLR or 1/4" TRS connector.
The SVS SB12-NSD expects line level inputs via stereo RCA connectors, and can pass through line-level and high-pass outputs via stereo RCA connectors.
The AT-LP60 has phono and line outs through stereo RCA connectors.
Your laptop probably has a 1/8" stereo TRS connector.
Working backwards from your JBL, you can use a stereo 1/4" TS to RCA cable to connect the speakers to the line or low-pass RCA outputs on the SVS. Check your JBL manual to ensure that a 1/4" TS cable will not cause issues in its TRS jack. An alternative is to use an RCA to TRS cable.
In order to switch your signal source between your computer and your turntable, you'll need an RCA source selector. You can also use stereo receiver or pre-amplifier with source selection.
In order to get your computer's audio output from its line out to the splitter or receiver, you'll need a 3.5mm to RCA splitter cable. That cable will also work for a Coaxial SPDIF digital signal if you go with a receiver, and both the receiver and computer support Coaxial SPDIF. Your computer and the receiver may also support a SPDIF over TOSLINK, for which you'll need a TOSLINK cable. Note that TOSLINK cables and jacks come in two physically incompatible connectors.
The turntable can plug directly into the source selector.
The above Amazon links are to examples of cables and devices you could use with the relevant connectors. You could spend a lot more or less on each cable or device with different brands, colors, etc.
a cable like this: http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CMS110-inch-Adapter/dp/B000068O36 from the scarlett's headphone out to the "front right/left" input on the speaker
or
a cable like this: http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP153-Cable-Inch-Dual/dp/B000068O3C/ from the scarlett's main outs to the same "front right/left"
I use a GoPro suction cupped to the inside of the cockpit for video. To get the audio I attach a 3.5mm Mic Adapter and then a 1/8 inch TRS to 1/4 Inch TRS Adapter Cable - 10 Foot.
If you get a GoPro you'll want to find some larger batteries, I can never get more than 90-120 minutes out of one.
If you want to integrate video sources, I would recommend getting a home theater receiver. It will work fine for stereo music and offers a ton of good features.
This is a good choice: https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/denavrs730h/denon-avr-s730h-7.2-ch-x-75-watts-a/v-receiver-w/heos/1.html
Next you need some speakers, I’d get these Infinity R162, it’s a killer price on some great speakers. They will play loud and clear and work well for music and movies: https://www.harmanaudio.com/speakers/R162BK-Z.html
Lastly you need a sub, again Infinity has a great sale on this and i don’t think there’s anything better unless you spend quite a bit more for a RSL speedwoofer: https://www.infinityspeakers.com/reference-series-home/REFERENCE+SUB+R10.html
Speaker cables: Micca Pure Copper Speaker Wire with Gold Plated Banana Plugs, 14AWG, 6 Feet (2 Meter), Pair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZZ5HCTM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_n60mDbHDDC5EV
Speaker stands: Sanus BF24B 24 Inch Speaker Stands (Pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006JQ5N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_M60mDb568ER14
Subwoofer cable: Mediabridge ULTRA Series Subwoofer Cable (15 Feet) - Dual Shielded with Gold Plated RCA to RCA Connectors - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003FVYXY0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_a70mDbDG54CND
Depending on where you plan to place your speakers. You can buy pre made speaker cables. Both your receiver and speakers can use banana plugs.
Plus the Micca Cables are pretty
Mediabridge
Cable Matters
Micca
I’ve been working on my display and wiring setup for a while now and I’m finally happy with it so I thought I would share it with r/mini. Any suggestions or comments would be greatly appreciated. This is one of my first posts so if I messed up, that’s why.
Links:
Ultragauge: http://www.ultra-gauge.com/ultragauge/
Aluminum GPS Mount: http://www.cravenspeed.com/mini-gps-mounting-kits/
AUX in: http://www.minicarparts.net/Instructions/M3367_Instructions.cfm
Phone/ipod holder: http://amzn.com/B009GMKT0Y
Charging cable: http://amzn.com/B000EFVGV8
gold plated AUX cable: http://amzn.com/B004LTEUDO
Antenna: http://www.cravenspeed.com/products/The-Stubby-Antenna.html
Inverter: http://amzn.com/B004MDXS0U
Lights: I don’t remember exactly, but if someone want the link then I can look more. They were like $25 total.
This is a really small rca switch box. This and a single 3.5mm to rca converter could work for you.
Setting up a 3.1 system is extremely simple and the hardest part is knowing what to buy but there is a bunch of guides for that. Buying speaker wire and banana plugs and stripping wire is more cost effective (especially if doing surround speakers) and pretty easy (look up some videos) but if that's too scary you could always buy cables like this. Then you just plug the cables into the back of the speakers and the receiver, along with an HDMI cable and an optical cable from the TV to the receiver. Then power on the receiver and walk through it's step by step setup that will do 95% the heavy lifting of getting it configured. Then your done and you plug all you HDMI devices intuition the receiver.
I'd shoot for something like Micca MB42X + MB42X-C and a lower end refurbished 5.1 Denon receiver like the s530/540 and if you want more bass adding a subwoofer like the Dayton SUB1200 or Micca MS12. That's $80 + $70 + $140 for a solid entry level 3.0 and an extra $150-180 for the sub to make it a 3.1. Not sure how readily available those speakers are and how much they would cost in Euros but those aren't the only option you have. The receiver has room correction which will improve overall quality, a center channel dialog booster that you can mess with if the calibration software doesn't boost up the voices enough in quiet scenes for your tastes.
You could also upgrade later to a 5.1 later and the biggest challenge would be figuring out how to get speaker wire to where it needs to be.
Get yourself a nice little Amp like an SMSL SA-50, a 3.5mm aux cable to connect your TV's headphone out to the amp, and some 16 gauge speaker wire to connect amp to speakers. Bob's your uncle.
IF money is type, you can go with a cheaper amp, but the first one I mentioned is nicer unit that you can keep when you upgrade to a TV with an optical out.
I bought This adapter and This cable.
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No issues for me!
It depends on the model. https://support.apple.com/en-ca/HT202730
You'll need an optical cable that plugs into the headphone jack. Something like this: https://www.amazon.ca/FosPower-Toslink-Digital-Connectors-Strain-Relief/dp/B00T8HWUVS/ref=pd_sbs_504_1
​
First double check that your PC doesn't have a combo jack (3.5mm analog and 3.5mm optical in the same port). a lot of modern PCs (especially macs) have this and if that's the case this is your best bet for audio. This is what you'd want.
​
If you're using HDMI output (especially if you're using a receiver or multiple HDMI inputs), something like this is a good choice.
​
If not, your next best bet is a internal soundcard with optical output (like this one) if it's a desktop, or an external USB soundcard with an optical output if it's a laptop (like this one).
​
If neither of these work, and/or you're on a device that only has a 3.5mm analog output and nothing else, you can use one of these with one of these adapters. It's known as an analog to digital converter (ADC) and will take in analog (RCA/3.5mm) and convert it to a digital format like optical. This isn't super recommended, as it add extra conversion steps to the process and will reduce the sound quality of your soundbar somewhat unless you pay out extra money for a high quality professional ADC.
This is what you want to get audio to your speakers, it's called a DAC, (better, more expensive options are available, but that's the best you're gonna do for under $100 lol) and this is the cable to connect the two devices (you'll also need RCA cables)
This will get you video to your projector.
Unfortunately since it looks like you're using powered monitors, you'll need a pre-amp to control the volume.
You may be thinking wow that's a lot of stuff, and it doesn't even come with a remote! And you're absolutely right. Unfortunately, the only thing that does all that is a full blow receiver, which get quite expensive and are usually aimed at surround sound systems. Most receivers don't like powered monitors though, so you'd have to get a very special one.
This is where you realize that passive speakers are what you really want, and you blow hundreds of dollars on speakers and equipment and you become an audiophile. Luckily there's a bunch of guides to get you started over on /r/zeos. But the stuff I listed earlier should let you jerry-rig a working set up while you save up :P
Looks like you made a mistake when posting that link. Assuming this is the link you wanted to post.
PC to Scarlett to JBL's. The Scarlett doesn't seem to take RCA's, you'll need a TRS end for the Scarlett end. JBL will take the same connector and XLR.
You are probably using the wrong (not balanced aka symmetric) cables.
You can recognise them by the stereo plug example link
The Cloudlifter would be a complete waste of money here and many people use them where they aren't needed.
The bad news here is that Behringer's classic mixers are just plain garbage. End of story. Good for seeing how high it will bounce when being thrown off the roof of a building though.
I would go so far as to say you shouldn't even look at mixers at all unless you're playing an instrument like a guitar in addition to using the mic. You mix where your sources are, so on a gaming PC you need to mix in software on the PC, not in some external box that you need to setup loopback on. The type of software mixer you're looking for is Voicemeeter.
Behringer's "HD" audio interfaces, however, are pretty decent on the cheap. I just wouldn't touch anything less than the $60 UMC202HD though.
At the end of the day, a 2-input/2-output USB audio interface like the Behringer UMC202HD is all you need. I wouldn't bother with an external hardware mixer at all. It's just not needed. If you want to spend a bit more on a nicer interface, Tascam, Roland, and Zoom are worth looking at. Just don't buy Focusrite Scarlett as their Windows 10 drivers are straight-up broken and won't be fixed any time soon.
Get a decent mic arm like the On Stage MBS5000, plug one end of the XLR cable into the SM58, then the other end into your audio interface, e.g. UMC202HD. Plug your speakers and headphone into the interface. Done. That's all you need. You don't even need a foam ball as a vocal dynamic like that SM58 has a built-in pop filter foam behind it's screw-on head. You can stop using your motherboard's onboard audio entirely too. Maybe do an isolation mic clip if you're feeling fancy.
Remember you need a mic arm as putting your mic on the desk is too far away from your mouth and the mic will pick up more keyboard, mouse, and room noise than it will of your voice.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BWM5E8C
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ZO60I
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QHURUBE
Some adapters you might need, maybe, depending on how your PC speakers are setup:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010D0HO0
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O3S
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O18
Get a RCA to TS (1/4") cable like this one.
You can also use adapters like these to use with a regular RCA cable, but they are often problematic and the proper cable is useful enough on its own.
Yes, using adapters like this or this you can connect them to unbalanced sources using 3.5mm TRS or RCA respectively.
TS (6.5mm, 1/4") to RCA, and here
You need this cable or RCA-RCA cable and this adapters. Scarlett input attenuation at line level.
The LSR305s need a balanced mono input on the TRS jack. You have a stereo TRS to dual mono breakout cable. You need something like this.
Just checked out the two, looks like the lite uses 3.5mm TRS on the cable snake bundle and the forge has 1/4" TRS inputs.
Basically all you'd need is [a couple of these](Hosa CMS-110 3.5 mm TRS to 1/4 inch TRS Stereo Interconnect Cable, 10 feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O36/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.U8BybDJV41T2) cables.
Should do the trick.
Not sure if it would work, but maybe try a 1/8 to 1/4 cable: http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CMS110-inch-Adapter/dp/B000068O36
OK, I will mention that the volume of standard audio and the calling app is stored separately and you may literally have to turn up the volume on the iPhone during the call even though music is fine.
What I think is happening is you are trying to connect an unbalanced device to a balanced jack.
The only 1/4" stereo jack on your interface or mixer is labeled Phones or Headphones. Other than Insert jacks, which I won't cover, all other 1/4" jacks are mono and able to use balanced or unbalanced connections.
RCA and 1/4" TS cables are mono cables. They are also unbalanced cables.
XLR and 1/4" TRS cables are mono and balanced.
Insert cables are special, as are headphone cables. These are 1/4" TRS connections but they are different. They are unbalanced.
OK, unbalanced cables are what you are used to. Nothing special.
Balanced cables are three wire cables. The connector can be XLR or a TRS plug, usually 1/4" TRS. There isn't actually anything special about the cables or connectors per se. The jacks you plug them into are special.
If you take a piece of professional audio gear (your mixer and interface for example) and connect them with a TRS cable, that cable will carry a mono signal. It will also be somewhat immune to radio interference from lights, refrigerators, and compressors kicking in, most anything that would cause interference in a long audio cable.
What happens is the Tip and Sleeve pair carry a standard mono audio signal, just like on a TS cable. The Ring Sleeve pair also carry the same mono audio signal, but this signal is 180 degrees out of phase with the other copy.
What does that mean? Let's say the voltage in the cable is varying up and down between 1 volt and -1 volt. At a given point, say the five-second mark the TS copy of the audio is at 1V. At that exact time, the RS audio is at -1V. Other times the two signals will be at -.2V and .2V and every other value, but always with a different sign except at zero. If you looked on an oscilloscope, the waves made would be mirror images.
Why would anyone do this? Immagine you have an old refrigerator or big AC unit nearby and it kicks on. This can cause interference in the various lines nearby. Usually, it doesn't matter. With audio, it does. You could hear it kick on, or a rumble in the background on all the cables or lots of weird effects, all bad for the audio.
Let's look at that five-second mark, again. An AC unit kicks in and imparts electrical noise of +0.2V to the signal. That makes the TS signal 1.2V. It gets added to the RS signal as well but makes that signal -0.8 V (-1V + 0.2V = -0.8V). Both signals were affected the same.
Here is the magic. The balanced jack that sends the signal sends the TS signal as normal and inverts that signal (makes it 180 degrees out of phase) for the RS signal. The receiving balanced jack reverses this, adds the signals together and divides them by two. SO the interfered with TS signal of 1.2B is added to the inverted RS signal, now 0.8V to get 2.0V which is divided by 2 to get 1V, the original, un-interfered with value.
Balanced cables aren't affected much by interference. Great, right? What's that to you? The only way the jack knows there is a balanced or unbalanced signal is if the cable is TRS, and assumes it's balanced. The jacks just aren't smart.
Now, consumer equipment rarely understands the idea of a balanced cable so if you plug in a TRS cable into the iPhone, it thinks stereo and outputs a stereo signal. The interface sees a TRS plug and assumes mono balanced signal and does weird stuff to the signal. A call is mono, so both copies of the signal are the same. using the 1V at a five-second example, the interface takes the TS 1 V signal, the RS 1 volt signal. Inverts the RS signal to -1V which gets added to the other and you get 0V. Divide that by two if you want but 0V is silence. This happens for all the audio making the call effectively silent. Anything you do hear is because it's an imperfect system or the two outputs are not quite in phase when generated.
If you place a stereo sound, say music with a big stereo separation, you should get really weird distortions. The signals won't be perfectly canceling each other out like the mono signal.
So, what does this mean? Use TS cables on the interface or mixer side. A Y cable like this
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-153-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B000068O3C/
or a cable like this
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-310-inch-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O3I/
or maybe this
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-110-3-5mm-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O3D/
Any questions? Sound like what you have experienced?
!
I don't have that cable but if you still run into problems maybe try the setup I got.
GoPro adapter
Splitter - Allows to share a jack with a headset.
Cable
This setup works great for me.
You'll probably need something like this: http://www.taiaudio.com/hosa-stereo-3-5mm-male-to-dual-mono-3-5mm-female-y-cable/
Then you can plug your headphones into the left channel, and get another cable to go from the right channel to the PA. I don't know what type of input your PA has, but if it has a 1/4" input, you would need something like this https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-110-3-5mm-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O3D
Note that with the above setup, you will only get audio out of one side of your headphones. If you want it to come out of both sides, get one of these as well. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/888539-REG/CablesToGo_03174_3_5mm_Stereo_Female_to.html
Sorry for picking cables from 3 different sources. I just used Google and picked random links. But you can probably get everything from Amazon.
One of this would do:
If you want an external interface the 2i2 is a nice one and as you say it has two outputs. There are also some cheaper but decent quality interfaces. Tascam is a good brand to look for as well.
You need to hook up the line-out from the receiver to line-input on the back of the sub. Probably with a cheap RCA to stereo cable like this.
XBMC is just for the old Xbox IIRC so that's probably not an option unless you have one you can mod.
If you said you can connect your iPod to your TV, I'm assuming it's an older one without the Netflix app? I'm not sure what options you have where you live (SCART is a french A/V connection right?) but you might want to check into something like Roku. It'll probably be cheaper than a year of live service and you'll have access to other TV services too. There's also the AppleTV, which I believe has Netflix (you can also flash XBMC to it I believe if you like their interface better.)
Or if you want to use your PC, do you have HDMI ports on your TV? You can get a new video card with an HDMI port pretty cheap and a cable however long you need on ebay or monoprice.com. If you don't want to do that and your S-video port isn't working correctly and you're sure the cable is good, you can buy a VGA to RCA adapter and a headphone to RCA cable.
Most subwoofers use RCA cables like the yellow, white, and red to the left. They sell dedicated subwoofer cables that are just high quality RCA: http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-Subwoofer-Cable-Feet/dp/B003FVYXY0/ref=sr_1_1?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1464116082&sr=1-1
Possibly a plain ole subwoofer cable like this if your receiver has the same type of subwoofer output.
https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-Subwoofer-Cable-Feet/dp/B003FVYXY0?ref_=Oct_BSellerC_598586_1&pf_rd_p=c8bdcc85-7d25-51c7-8c05-2e52abbb5167&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=598586&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=XRTQ905PQWWBMJYS88RJ&pf_rd_r=XRTQ905PQWWBMJYS88RJ&pf_rd_p=c8bdcc85-7d25-51c7-8c05-2e52abbb5167
http://m.thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-surge-protector/
http://www.knukonceptz.com/home-theater/subwoofer-cable/sp/krystal-cable-subwoofer-rca-8-meter/
http://www.monoprice.com/mobile/catalog/subcategory?maincategoryid=102&categoryid=10255
http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-Series-Subwoofer-Cable/dp/B003FVYXY0
I'd get a longer sub cable than that( 15 to 25 foot to be able to use the "sub crawl" technique for best bass at your listening position once placing the sub in room. Mediabridge through Amazon or Knu Konceptz if you want a pure copper core cable ( I've used both and they sound exactly the same to me.) Not sure on the home theater power strips being worth it unless they have battery backups built in(debatable that's even needed.) I would also go with Monoprice's Redmere active high speed HDMI cables for longer runs but either way I would avoid Audioquest as they are overhyped and over priced.
I'm like you, OP. I also am philosophically opposed to spending more on audio than on screen. That being said, good speakers do last for a very long time: if new formats ever come out, you can always upgrade the receiver and you can keep your speakers forever.
I did a lot of searching and I ended up with a good compromise that allowed me to have a LG OLED 65 together with a set of solid speakers.
​
Here's what you need to know:
​
- The latest OLED TVs are pretty much the same as last year's. LG B7, C7, B8 or C8 are all the same TV pretty much. Get the cheapest you can find. I bought mine on greentoe.com. I offered 1900$ for a 65' B7 this past April and my offer got accepted. You can even try to price match it with your credit card, I think (search in this sub). This may save you a few dollars more. Bottom line is: you should be able to snatch a 65 OLED for ~1500-1900.
- You can order a refurbished sub for a fraction of the price. I have the Denon X1400H that u/robotdinofight recommended, and I also bought it from accessories4less.
- Atmos speakers are mostly marketing BS. There isn't much sound that comes from above you in movies. That Denon is compatible anyway, so you can always add them later. Before you do that, just go watch a movie in Atmos at a theater.
- Sorround speakers are not that important either. Your dialogue is coming from the center speaker, and music etc will be on the front channels, with just some in your sorrounds more for ambiance than anything else. You can go with *very cheap* speakers here. Source: Zeos's guide here. I ended up buying the cheapest speakers Zeos recommended: Micca Covo-s for 40$ the pair (a factor in my decision was also that I had the speaker stands I was using for the cheap Logitech 5.1 PC system I had. Speaker stands are expensive too so factor in that cost too). These speakers are honestly not great: I tried using a pair of ELAC B6 and yes, sorround was much better. But I like HDR and perfect blacks way more than better sorround, so I ended up returning the ELACs and kept the Miccas as my rear. Maybe I'll upgrade some other time.
- If you are like me and have neighbors and a wife who's not into loud explosion, you really don't need a crazy sub. I have the Elac S10 and that's *more* than enough for us, my wife wants me to keep it down. Get a cheap one! Mine was only about 100$. See Zeos's guide here: https://www.reddit.com/comments/5b1u99
- Invest in good fronts. I have the ELAC B6.2 and while I don't think they sound like the crazy expensive speakers that some friends have, they sound *much* better than a soundbar/integrated TV sound and are great for movies! Important: whatever you buy, you must buy a center channel that matches the left/right speakers. I have the ELAC Debut 2.0 C6.2 center, with the ELAC Debut 2.0 B6.2 Bookshelf Speakers as my L/R channels.
- Buy cheap speaker wire and strip it yourself!! I'm so bad with practical stuff that I was a bit intimidated by it, but honestly it's ridiculously simple. The guide that I liked before has a section on wires, read it. The sub has its own cable, remember to buy it (I bought the Amazon one).
- Buy cheap HDMI cables from AmazonBasics.
- I have these stands for my fronts: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PYV7LQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
Compared to u/robotdinofight's guide, you lose some sound quality, but only where it matters least and you should save some 700$, enough money to go from the TCL to a LG OLED. Hope it helped!
Thanks guys. Just ordered the top of the line Amazon option.
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https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-Subwoofer-Cable-Feet/dp/B003FVYXY0/ref=zg_bs_598586_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=7F438Z1DXARX4SWXNQEA
I use
Works like a charm when I change the tv input to hdmi.
edit:
Thanks to nalc, looks like OP could use:
Depending on the devices used, the audio may or may not be transferred through HDMI. With my Macbook and tv, I need to hook up the audio cable separately (there is a jack next to the hdmi slot on my tv).
I do this to record my voice mails that I don't want to delete.
First, I use a regular auxiliary cord.
Then one end of that cord I plug into my phone, and the other I put THIS ADAPTER on it, and plug it into my Scarlett's microphone jack. Then I arm the track in Ableton and record like normal, as if I was recording anything else via my microphone.
Works like a charm.
Nah, you're gonna have to purchase them.
These are fairly cheap, and will do the job fine.
You need a pair 1/4" TRS balanced patch cables. http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CSS110-Interconnect-Cables/dp/B000068NYH#mobile-twister_size_name_1452610963094
I've seen the Lexicon Alpha consistently recommended for the LSR305 since it has balanced outputs + low cost + performance. IIRC it has some kind of problem with macOS, not sure, look into it if you're on a Mac.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HVXMNE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AV80KMVI6ZWQL&psc=1
These would be the cables for you I believe (thankx NoAudiophile.com!)
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068NYH/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
Tons of other good DAC/amp combos out there; the Alpha is unique b/c of the balanced outputs which should eliminate hum/interference issues.
Disclaimer - I don't own any of this gear personally.
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000068O18/ref=dp_cerb_1
This one looks decent
I guess the first question is what's the game audio source? Are you using a console or are you emulating on the PC?
I assume if you have a console you're using some kind of capture device so the game content can get to your PC.
If that's the case you have to split off the audio before you hit your capture box and go into the mixer. The red and white RCAs would probably be the quickest solution so get 2 f-f RCA splitters and then a dual RCA - TRS cable and patch into the line in or aux ins on your console.
If you're capturing over HDMI you might have to experiment and see if the console will also output audio seperately over the RCA jacks or if your capture box can split the audio from the signal. HDMI audio stripping is a pain in the ass and the boxes that do it cost money.
If you're emulating on the streaming PC you're much better off continuing to software mix. You could get a software mixer and then an interface to break out of the PC to run back into the mixer but that's going to add noise and cost more money than you need to spend.
I had some serious trouble finding a back-facing shot, and the specifications on tascam's website arent very specific, but according to this image: http://forum.ixbt.com/post.cgi?id=attach:90:1520:0:1 it looks like a RCA output (I have one on my behringer) and if so, the cheapest would be something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CPR-203-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O18 I got a similar product at guitar center and it works fine. There are also boxes you can get to balance the signal from the unbalanced RCA, but if you're on a budget, it should be fine.
Edit: also. This http://estaticos2.milanuncios.com/fg/1975/16/otros-instrumentos-musicales/Tarjeta-sonido-TASCAM-US-144-197516878_4.jpg definitely looks like an RCA
Wow you are so helpful, thank you.
So I think I've found a way that will work that involves less pieces. I cross posted this question in r/iphone here. The comments led me to this potential set up:
From my XDJ-RX's dual 1/4 TRS output, I'm going to have this male TS to male RCA cable going into the RCA input ports on the Behringer UCA202 (or UCA222), and then I will have that plug into the Apple Camera Connection Kit via USB, and then that goes into my phone. And THAT should get me a stereo signal.
Does that sound right to you? I'm like 95% sure that plugging two TS plugs into two TRS jacks (on the XDJ-RX) will only reduce the connection to unbalanced, but keep it stereo.
But it's good to know that if this setup doesn't work, the one that you suggested will. Finally this is all starting to make sense!
Here you go
Sorry if this is a silly question but would upgrading the Modi just allow it to do the same thing as my current modi but also act as a pre amp? Can you recommend a decent set of speaker stands?
I ordered the pre amp so we got that down.
Now I just want to make sure I've got it straight.
I need these cables for the speakers and these cables for the pre amp
One last question is how do I connect the stack to each other as the Modi 2 and Magni 2 only have one spot where you can plug in RCA cables and they run into each other. Would I just unplug the amp when I want to use my speakers?
As for the JBLs, don't stress over the TRS inputs; that isn't actually a different signal, just a different connector. You just buy a cable like this: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CPR-203-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O18
All you need is a bunch of cables like these https://www.amazon.co.uk/HosaTech-CPR-203-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O18. Plug them from your synths into the CD or Line inputs. No need to over complicate anything. Good luck!
That's the one sitting next to me right now as I mix. It comes with a power adapter-- no batteries. You'll need a 1/4th-to-3.5mm audio cable: http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CMS110-inch-Adapter/dp/B000068O36/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1396414454&sr=8-3&keywords=3.5mm+to+1+4
Haven't experienced any signal degradation or noise. The volume gets to bleeding ears levels. The beautiful part is that 4 people can be plugged in and amp'd at the same time with no signal degredation/noise. I tested out my Q-701's and the DT-770's at the same time-- audio dope.
While I agree that an XLR microphone is a better all-around choice to a USB one unless you need a direct connection to your computer, since you've already got the microphones, I would also point out that the mic you're using has a headphone port. It may be worth getting a mixer (most XLR mixers will also support 1/4" jacks, so if you upgrade to an XLR mic in the future you won't need a new mixer) and pick up something like this to patch it through.
You could try if you have a straight male-male 1/8" cable lying around to record it through your computer's line-in or microphone jack to see if the quality is still good first.
The SMSL M3 is a good, clean DAC. Warmer & brighter sound than the FiiO E10k, and with RCA full line out instead of 3.5mm, it makes connecting to a speaker amp a breeze. I have it running entirely on USB input right now, volume at 50%, front 1/4" output running to the LyxPro 4-channel headphone amp you see there & back output going to the SA60. My only gripe with the M3 is that its front output is controlled by an analog volume knob, which means enough turning and you'll get channel imbalance eventually. To avoid this, I use the LyxPro 100% of the time when using headphones, as it's much cheaper to replace and doesn't degrade audio quality as far as I can tell (just dulls the highs a little, a personal plus).
The SMSL SA60 is great, powers my Micca MB42s (unpowered speakers, of course) very nicely. As far as I can tell, it's nice and clean, and has enough features for most users. Bear in mind this does not have a sub out, so in my opinion it's best for light setups like the one you see pictured (2.0 setups, as opposed to 2.1 setups).
Things I like about the SA60:
Things I dislike about the SA60:
My headphone cable of choice is this 1/4" to 3.5mm cable by Hosa (the 3ft version). No gold plating, but the quality is comparable to other high-end 3.5mm cables (I've compared it to this Anker cable, for example). I have a personal vendetta against adapters, which is why I use this cable and not a 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable with adapter -- I like my sound to be as clean as I can get it, and adapters only run the risk of degrading that AND adding more points of failure should something go wrong. The only adapter I use is the one connecting my M3 to the LyxPro, as for some reason its TRS input switches left and right channels… but not the RCA input. The TRS cable I use is very high quality, and the RCA adapter has gold plating on either end, so hopefully it should be fine. I haven't noticed any quality loss when using it.
Does your Pocket Piano have MIDI I/O? I recommend reading this document, if it does. You can use any sequencer to sequence it, if it has MIDI. DAWs, hardware, whatever!
And you're right about the mixer. It's exactly what you need to aggregate your collection so that it can all come out of the same speakers. For the pocket operators, you can use a 1/8" to 1/4" cable like this to connect them to a mixer.
I have a Sony ICD-AX412 and you're going to need This and this. This will plug to your headset and the aircraft so you can capture high quality audio. It only sucks cuz you have to sync audio and video in editing.
I'm sure you can find other 1/4 to 1/8 cables, unless you really wanted a custom one like you said, sleeved. https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMS-110-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O36 And i'm sure you could pull off the 1/4 thing, might be a tight fix/awkward one.
This, cable with on one side the big plug and on the other the small. The big plug goes into the output of the monologue and the small one into the aux of the monotron. Then it should work, for what you want to achieve it doesn't matter if the cable is stereo or mono.
One other tip, the monotron's headphone output does not like mono cables, so make sure you use a stereo cable/headphones. You can read up on the difference between stereo and mono cables using google.
Okay. So if I understand correctly your cable only has one 1/4" connector, right? Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMS-110-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O36 ?
If so, the issue is that you're trying to connect your PC's stereo output (meaning it has two channels, left and right) into a balanced input (a more advanced for of a mono one channel input. Look up balanced signal if you want to learn more). The mixer input is not designed to handle a stereo signal, so it won't process it correctly.
Ideally, you should use a cable that has two 1/4" connectors (one for the left and one for the right) like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000068O3C and plug them into 2 separate channels on your mixer.
The LS305 are nice speakers, I think they hit well above most of the 5 inch budget studio monitors out there, but that is just my opinion. Studio monitors are great for computers becasue they are designed for nearfield listening. Most studio monitors have XLR inputs, it's kind of standard. The JBL LS305 can be connected via XLR or TRS. which are just as good as RCA cables. You really need to decide wether you want an external DAC or to run off your computers Audio. The cheapest DAC route I would consider is the Behringer UCA202 At $30.00. It takes the music signal from the computer via USB cable to the DAC and provides RCA outputs. You can spend a lot more on a DAC but this will work. I bought one for my girlfriends laptop and it works well. This really comes down to your budget for the DAC. Most of them will be able to connect to your speakers and some may require an adapter cable. The Benchmark DAC1 I use has balanced outputs and RCA outputs. I have tried them both with the JBL's and can not really hear a difference.
If you have a source with rca outputs something like this cable will work to connect the JBL's.
RCA Cable to TRS
If you want to output from your computer something like this should work.
Mini jack to TRS
Wait, hold on. Here's a solution. Had to think about it for a second.
Did a little bit more looking into integrating audio for future reference to other redditors if you plan to use your Yi brand camera(s) (or USB Type C connection) inside the cabin (to directly input cables on the camera).
Audio cable: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-110-3-5mm-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O3D/ref=sr_1_2?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1458126042&sr=1-2&keywords=1%2F4+inch+to+3.5
Adapter: https://www.amazon.com/Vention-Retractable-Plated-Type-c-Speaker/dp/B078RGBBBW/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1524247294&sr=8-12&keywords=3.5mm+audio+to+usb+type+c
Optional if you plan to use same socket for your mic and for the camera (Splitter): https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-YPP118-Dual-Female-Cable/dp/B000068O56/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1458126160&sr=1-1&keywords=1%2F4+splitter
Forewarning: This is based on my research, I have not tried this yet. But I plan to and will update this thread.
This is the best cable for your problem. i use it with all my lil korg boxes. 3.5mm Stereo to TS Mono.
http://www.amazon.com/HOSA-CMP-110-Mono-Interconnect-3-5mm/dp/B000068O3D
Does your laptop or computer have a 3.55mm speaker or microphone input? If so, you could pick up one of these and connect your bass directly to the computer. Then, you can use a program like Audacity to record your playing and play it back with ease. Your mileage will vary, but for practice it's simple and cost effective solution.
If you only want mono you could go with something more like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-110-3-5mm-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O3D
It's that extra black ring on the 1/4 side of your adapter which is causing your sound quality issues so this one having the plain mono connector on the other side would take care of it.
You are talkin' to Mr. Cheap-o his-self... I don't have any expendable moolah, so I try to keep everything as lo-bux as possible!
What I use is Audacity, a free audio editing program that's fairly easy to figure out. With it you can record as many tracks as you want (one at a time) and clean them up, add effects, pan 'em left-n-right... then with the equally-easy-to-install LAME MP3 Encoder you convert your work to MP3 format.
If you have Movie Maker or something similar on your PC you can align the video with the MP3, save it as a WMV and go from there.
I have a cord that is 1/4" on one end, and the other end fits the "mic" input on the side of my 'puter. I can record directly to Audacity that way, or I can hook up a microphone in front of a cab. I even have an old "Guitar Hero" USB mic that works in certain situations. (Two bucks at GoodWill!)
Hope this helps!
It’s the cable. You need this cable. Also, that interface only has a mono line input (ideally for a guitar) so if any of the sounds on the OP-Z are panned or if you’re using stereo effects like chorus or reverb, it won’t sound exactly like it does in your headphones.
The correct cable 3.5 stereo to dual 1/4 mono.. like this
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6
Then plug one of the 1/4 into your interface. The other end doesn't need to be plugged in since the kick has no stereo features. 3.5 to 3.5 stereo or rca will work as well.
3.5 stereo to one 1/4 mono summed is not correct and can cause issues. this cable is not correct
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-110-3-5mm-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O3D
3.5 to 1/4 trs will not work on mono input devices either. this cable is not correct for mono input devices
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMS-105-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O35
Something like this
I use Volca Keys with Ableton and I use something similar. Works great!
ju-06! a "juno-06" does not exist.
get you one of these cables to go from the ju-06 to a mono guitar pedal input.
Aren't you planning on using them in pairs?
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP153-Cable-Inch-Dual/dp/B000068O3C with orange and gray going to each speaker.
If you're not using them in pairs, use this: http://www.amazon.com/HOSA-CMP-110-Mono-Interconnect-3-5mm/dp/B000068O3D
Do you have any kind of recording interface? (e.g. Sapphire 2i2) there's tons out there. You need an audio input on your computer to take audio from the headphone out on the volca. The audio interface will serve as this input. Plugging a 3.5mm TRS cable directly into your mic input on your computer is probably not advisable since mic inputs are generally mono.
Sound is not transferred through midi. Midi is simply control information.
P.s. The volca headphone out is 3.5mm stereo (but outputs a mono signal) so you need a cable that has 3.5mm TRS to 1/4 inch TS
Like these: http://www.amazon.com/HOSA-CMP-110-Mono-Interconnect-3-5mm/dp/B000068O3D?th=0
Alternatively, some people use these:
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6
You need one of these cables.
I use these for the mono Volcas. Works perfectly!
Someone else linked me to this solution!
Thoughts?
Well, you should need a male mono 1/4" to female stereo 1/8" jack adapter to plug into the guitar.
Then you need a male to male 1/8" stereo patch cable to go from that to the computer's 'line in' or single audio jack.
OR, just something like this cable here that's the same thing all in one piece.
Then you need to configure your MacBook's audio port to be an input instead of an output as described here.(if you don't have a dedicated 'line in' jack)
After all that, you should be able to select your macbook's input jack in Logic, and pluck away.
This is a direct line in. Your guitar should be powered. Make sure ALL your guitar's/interface's volume/gain knobs/sliders are set to their minimum before jacking in and playing. The best case scenario if you don't is major distortion in your signal. The worst case is that you could blow out your macbook's audio device. I don't know how the macbooks handle overload. It shouldn't be a problem, but just to be safe, always set your guitar's levels to min first then bring them up during your first tests; play normally.
You may not have to manually change your macbook's audio jack. It is auto-sensing. I included the step just in case. If your macbook only has one audio jack, obviously, you won't be able to listen through external speakers or headphones while your guitar's lined in. It'll have to be through the internal speakers. This iMic is a cheap workaround for only having one audio jack. Google for more 'audio interface' devices.
In a nutshell: plug your guitar into the computer directly, set the software to use that jack, and go!
Get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00428BF1Y/
Then look up some tutorials on YouTube for setting up OBS Studio.
If you want to play on a separate TV while you record (which I'd probably recommend), get one of these as well: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010EIK6K6/
You'll also need some male-to-male RCA cables: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07846GW8H/
If you want to split the NES' mono audio to both channels: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O4Y/
Man you have a fairly dysfunctional system in that a lot of the things meant to minimize the setup are broken. With that said. Some options I thought of are:
Option a:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008JYB93G Cheapest DAC you can buy. $16
https://www.amazon.com/VONOTO-Switcher-Toslink-Splitter-Converter/dp/B00PZKA5E6/ for switching between toslinks $14
https://www.amazon.com/IEC-Speaker-Wire-Pair-Males/dp/B003U46G8I/ To connect the powered monitors to the subwoofer, you can use these with the splitters below.
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-YRA-104-Dual-RCAF-Y-Cable/dp/B000068O4Y x 2
https://www.amazon.com/KabelDirekt-feet-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B00DI89IQS $10 connects from splitters to subwoofer.
That is the low cost version. You can replace the $16 dac with a micca Origin+ ($110 shipped) and then you'd also have a cost-efficient DAC/PReamp with a volume nob, and ability to switch between input sources and output sources easier. Would also increase audio quality by a bit if your input source isn't too good.
Want to add an equalizer, high pass filters, etc? Look into a Mini DSP 2 x 4. That should take care of those needs. But I don't think it would really be all that necessary. Your call, this is the cheapest way imo to do this.
Best of luck.
This would do the trick http://schiit.com/products/sys
You also need an RCA splitter to allow you to connect both the sub and speakers to it. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-YRA-104-Dual-RCAF-Y-Cable/dp/B000068O4Y/
Finally, the studio monitors don't have RCA jacks so you'll need a cable like this https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CPR-202-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O17/
> So the line out on the Yamaha is currently occupied by a powered sub. Could I get an aux splitter to connect one end to the powered sub and one to the JVC?
Yes. An RCA splitter like this would work:
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-YRA-104-Dual-RCAF-Y-Cable/dp/B000068O4Y/
> What is the relevance of the Tape Out on the JVC, what can I do with that?
Tape Out was intended to pass a line-level signal to a reel-to-reel magnetic tape recorder, usually immediately before the signal is amplified (so after volume control, and bass and treble filters etc on the integrated amplifier). Tape In is what comes back from the tape recorder and gets amplified directly.
Instead of a tape recorder, some listeners insert an equalizer or other signal processing, but Tape Out can also be split and sent to other components as a line-level input. Some receivers activate Tape Out / Tape In through a TAPE MONITOR button, other receivers have Tape Out / Tape In always on, and simply bridge the Tape Out to the Tape In through a small metal clip.
On your JVC, when you select Phono as your input, and TAPE MONITOR enabled, the RIAA-equalized and volume controlled signal will get sent to the Tape Out jacks, so you could send that to the Yamaha only (using the JVC essentially as a phono pre-amp), or split the Tape Out and send the signal also back to the JVC for amplification and have the sound come out of both amplifiers and all four speakers at once.
Connecting the record player to Tape In or Tape Out ports would not produce enjoyable results since phono signal would not have RIAA equalization applied.
> Will there be any difference in sound apart from the difference in the two sets of speakers (more about delay than quality)?
The signal will be received by the second amplifier slightly after it is received by the first amplifier. Electricity travels through copper cable at between 50% and 75% of the speed of light, which is roughly 300 million m/s. An amplifier adds a few dozen meters to the signal path at most, so there's not a significant difference there.
The speed of sound, however, is roughly 300 m/s, so delay might be noticeable between sets of speakers if they are very far apart relative to your listening position. The wavelength of notes in the 0-20 kHz range are in the 0-20 m range, so speaker placement may affect constructive or destructive interference for speakers on the same channel. These speed and length of sound concerns apply whether the signal is driven by one or multiple amplifiers.
Get two RCA splitters. http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-YRA-104-Male-Female-Cable/dp/B000068O4Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415031272&sr=8-1&keywords=rca+splitter
One end to the speakers the other to the sub. The sub has to be active.
(I've actually been looking for a pre-amp just like that. Thanks!)
1, 2, 3, and 4 - http://pcpartpicker.com/product/Gj6BD3/corsair-speakers-casp211na
They are worse than a set of studio monitors and a dedicated subwoofer, but if you don't want to put in the 2 minutes of effort they still sound good.
As for number 5 on your list, THX certification is pretty much pointless. Speakers can either cover a certain frequency and keep a fairly flat response or not.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KVEIY4E
https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-10-Inch-Powered-Subwoofer/dp/B0002KVQBA
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-YRA-104-Dual-RCAF-Y-Cable/dp/B000068O4Y x2
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Premium-Smartphones-Tablets-Theater/dp/B00B2HP1MW
If you reconsider the DIY method, you can purchase that stuff along with 2 standard RCA cables and be done in minutes.
Could I use something like this and use two of them. Have one plugged into the L and one in the R of the Dac. And then connect a one L and R to the headphone amp and the other to the speakers?
Yep, you got it. I ended up buying two of these splitter cables to plug into the back of the Modi MB:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068O4Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I will throw caution to the wind, and say it may be possible that there is a degradation to the signal, but personally I can't tell. I do have to compensate by adjusting the volume slightly (and I really do mean slightly) higher on both, versus running each on their own, but it's not a big deal. In practice, I can easily switch between the two amps, or have both play at the exact same time, which was worth it to me. :)
These should work also, and a little cheaper.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068O4Z/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068O4Y/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1
If you have the Sanskrit just get two RCA splitters and share the output with two pair of short rca cables one to the SA60 and one to your new Head-amp.
Once you have the splitters you don't have to look for in-out's on the head-amp. So the SMSL SAP VI or the SAP 8 would both work.
Here's what I do so I can even have music while gaming with a headset on http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Male-Female-inch/dp/B000I98ZYG/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1394631161&sr=1-1&keywords=reverse+headphone+splitter
Plug headphones into controller and music source. Now in terms of online I'd say pandora spotify grooveshark or an old MySpace page =p
You could try one of these things. Im not sure how well it works though [Y adapter] (https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Showcase-6-Inch-Stereo-30S1-35260/dp/B000I98ZYG/ref=pd_sbs_23_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000I98ZYG&pd_rd_r=CQBAK5050P1T9D89DKYS&pd_rd_w=zwDwU&pd_rd_wg=6s6Jf&psc=1&refRID=CQBAK5050P1T9D89DKYS)
Hot diggity dog! I was going to write a post about this, but decided to bite the bullet and write a post confirming that they worked instead... unfortunately, I screwed up and ordered the thing to the wrong place, so I might not get the post out before Spla2n comes out.
From my research (keep in mind I'm not an audio engineer or electronic magician), using a Y-splitter is a horrible idea. From a Tom's Hardware post:
> The problem with connecting 2 outputs together is they can try to drive one another.
>So it MAY work, but it may sound like hell and be bad for the computers. Adding some resistance can prevent then from driving one another, but will cut the output volume.
Using a Y splitter could also cause the devices to short each other out.
I was able to find a few devices that seem to work, that I didn't know existed beforehand, both from reviews and other forum discussions. These devices [1], [2], [3], allow you to connect any number of input and output devices together. However, they are only 3 pole, not 4 pole (probably, like I said, I don't have one yet), which means you'll have to have a separate connectors for each instance of audio you wish to hear, and audio you want to record, separately. Fortunately for us, Y-splitters do have a use, combining a headphone and mic into one plug, but you have to make sure the y-splitter has 2 female and 1 male (4 pole) connections, like this [4].
I made some drawings of how this would work. Each line is an aux or audio cable, I'm sure everyone here is smart enough to figure which is which for themselves:
This is all theoretical, of course. Safest route is probably using line-in if you're ok with sitting at your computer (uses a lot less cables, too), but this is in most cases a cheaper solution than buying a "real" mixer (even a cheap one, and this doesn't solve our voice chat problem in most cases, just our "all audio one one device" problem), cheaper than the Splatoon headset, and probably cheaper than just the Splatoon mixer itself.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I98ZYG/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Hb2lub05K94J0
OP you could use this. I used it for my reason stated below in response to someone else. It's two standard 3.5mm male to a single 3.5mm input jack for speakers or headphones. Worked great.
>Couldn't he use this...? I used to do this to hook up my Xbox and my PC to one set of Logitech computer speakers. Worked fine.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000I98ZYG?pc_redir=1412264162&robot_redir=1
Nope that reduces the audio quality massively and the audio is delayed which is a no go for gaming. The reason is that my soundcard has to convert the analog audio to digital which reduces the quality and therefore the delay happens.
I wanted to just use an audio splitter cable like this one (so it would keep being analog and the only loss in quality would come from the cable itself, there would also be no need to keep my pc turned on), but I'm from germany and I can't find a single retailer that would ship this to germany or ships from germany...
On the german Amazon store I only find headset splitters which can't mix the two outputs into one. The cable I linked is the one and only I could find.
What outputs does your laptop have? It usually has a vga and an s-video, newer ones have hdmi. TVs usually have S-Video, RCA or HDMI. I bought a 25' hdmi cable for my desktop computer to my tv. It costs under $7 + shipping on amazon. HDMI cables cover audio and video.
If you don't have hdmi on your laptop, you will need 2 cords. One for video signal and one for audio.
1.Here is a 6'ft stereo to rca (audio cable) on amazon for $1.50.
2. Here is an S-video cable for 63 cents on amazon
3. If you only have VGA on your laptop, it will be costlier ($20) because you need a converter to change it to RCA or S-Video - unless your TV accepts VGA (I have an hd tv which has vga, rca, s-video and hdmi).
Yep that looks like it would do fine.
Your speakers are dumb. They have no idea what they are connected to. They simply are looking for a speaker level input.
I can't find a good description of the inputs on that particular unit, so you will probably need an 1/8th inch stereo to rca cable to go from the output on your laptop to the input on the back of that amplifier, then you hook the speakers in to the back as well and you will be good to go.
Yeah in your imgur album looks like it's that RCA connection under the armrest. Need something like this or this for audio or one with the yellow for video too. Cables at monoprice.com are really cheap but they will cost less than $2 most likely
i have made mixtapes in the way you've described (with an ipod, not a pc, but it's the same idea). get a 3.5mm headphone-to-rca cable and connect that to the "record" jacks on the back of the unit.
you should be good to go!!
The cheap way is a 3.5mm to RCA cable.
A fancier option would be a bluetooth audio reciever, though I don't know too much about these, having never used one personally. This would be used in conjuction with a 3.5mm female to RCA stereo adapter cable, which is in the "Frequently Bought Together" section
Also, if you have an X-Box, PS3, or other DLNA-compatible device connected to your stereo, you can use Media Server to stream music files from your phone. However, this will not work with streaming services like Pandora or Google Play Music.
Yes. Before you plug into the Audio Control Box, plug in a Y splitter. One end goes to the Control Box, the other to your phone. Should combine the two sources into your headphones.
Solution 1: Keep 3DS volume low-ish. Discord's input sensitivity option helps with this.
Solution 2: Two pairs of headphones. I usually do this with earbuds plugged into whatever is running the voice chat, and then headphones over that plugged into the game.
Solution 3: An audio splitter, something like this. One plug goes in 3DS, one plug goes in PC/phone/whatever, both sources come through one set of headphones.
This?
http://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-Female-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B0016LDZ36
It depends on your setup. Do you have inputs for a microphone separate from a headphone port? A microphone port is simply an input port, so you could set it to relay "whats being said (the music)" to your headphones. However, on my macbook, for example, I only have one combined port.
Forget the squeezebox and try this:
http://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-Female-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B0016LDZ36/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1421165632&sr=1-2&keywords=audio+source+combine
pair that with two of those patch cables i provided you with and you'll have room to move the computer around.
http://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-Female-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B0016LDZ36
Something like this?
Do your headphones have two plugs at the end or just one?
The single plug configuration has audio in and out on the same plug, see here. You can buy adapters that will split this up into separate audio in/out plugs like this, then plug one into each appropriate socket.
You need a 3.5mm splitter. Like this
ive done this with a pc. for a macbook you may need 1 extra cable.
[converter] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CJOLBW/ref=oh_o00_s00_i00_details)
[audio] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004Z5CP/ref=oh_o01_s00_i00_details)
[adapter?] (http://www.amazon.com/Display-Female-Adapter-Macbook-Laptop/dp/B002ODG5GO)
80US$??? Where do you buy?
http://www.amazon.com/PC-To-TV-Video-Converter/dp/B001CJOLBW/ref=pd_bxgy_e_text_c
From 13US$
First you'll need a VGA to RCA composite converter to convert the signal from a computer's VGA output to an RCA composite signal.
Then you'll need a VCR, I assume you have one. I also assume you have a blank VHS. Finally you'll need a 3.5 mm to RCA cable.
After obtaining this stuff, load the file up on your computer, load the tape into the VCR, press record on the tape, press play, make sure that you're not turned up too loud on the audio output. Make necessary adjustments, then go for final record to the tape.
If you have a DVD that you want converted, it's a bit easier. Just connect the player to the VCR and queue up the video, then press play. Just note, if you have a disc that is encoded with Macrovision, it will look like crap.
Note that I have never done this, but it should work.
No it was cheaper then, this one looks like it would work too. http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CJOLBW/ref=s9_simh_gw_p23_d0_i3?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=1FY7FDE5G2Z3D4F9Q5NJ&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=1688200382&pf_rd_i=507846
You will need this converter.
This S-VHS cable to connect the converter to your TV.
This VGA cable to connect your converter to your laptop.
And, this RCA cable for the audio path between your headphone output of your laptop to your TV audio inputs. Your picture quality will be the same as Super VHS which is just under standard definition television broadcasts levels.
It's unlikely Hsu would put his subs on sale. They're what he's known for. You can call and ask him. He answers his own phone, and he's a really nice guy. He might even cut you a deal, if you're buying a sub and bookshelves together. He might not, too. But, hey...might as well ask!
So you're using your phone? If you're using your phone as a source, connecting through bluetooth to your integrated amp or amp/DAC combo, then you won't need anything else. I believe the Elac integrated amp has full bluetooth support. The Emotiva TA-100 has the firmware to support bluetooth, but you have to buy a dongle for it...so, there's another $15 or so.
That should be all you need, though, to get started. There's no end to the money you can spend on audio equipment, once you've decided to develop the habit. But to make music, all you need is something to take the signal from your phone and turn it into an analog signal, something to amplify that analog signal, and something to turn the analog signal into sound.
Oh, you'll need speaker wire. At least 16 gauge...lower numbers mean thicker wire, which means better transmission, generally. But don't go crazy with super-expensive speaker wire. And you'll need a cable to run from your pre-amp out to your subwoofer.
https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-16AWG-Speaker-Plated-Banana/dp/B00I52I2PU
You'll need 2 of those.
https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-Subwoofer-Cable-Feet/dp/B003FVYXY0
You'll need one of those.
Despite the fact that both speakers seem to be a similar price, the Inclines will considerably cheaper and closer to your budget once you account for cables and a subwoofer (provided you actually need one).
Regardless of what you buy, I suggest first trying the speakers without a subwoofer to hear whether you actually miss the last bit of low frequency sound. Both of my suggestions produce fairly low bass, JBL 305 rated at 43 Hz +/- 3 db and who knows about the Inclines as Def Tech doesn't report frequency response using the standard +/- 3 db (most likely they reach somewhere in the 50s?).
For the 305s, you are less likely to need a sub. Also, connecting a sub to the monitors can be complicated and will depend upon your overall setup. A related issue is whether you will be using an external digital-to-analog converter (DAC) - I recommend you do so for the improved sound quality and that you get one with a volume control. I think the best value approach is buy a pro audio interface - these have a DAC, volume control, and the types of cable connections that would facilitate mating your monitors and sub, plus other features that are used by recording musicians. I have the Steinberg UR22 (paid about $115 shipped new off ebay) but you can do fine with cheaper options: Lexicon Alpha has been recommended https://www.amazon.com/Lexicon-2-Channel-Desktop-Recording-Studio/dp/B000HVXMNE/ref=sr_1_6?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1472738288&sr=1-6&keywords=audio+interface or the Behringer UCA202 https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_5?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1472738288&sr=1-5&keywords=audio+interface
I went ahead and got the matching JBL LSR310S, but it is expensive ($400 usually but I got mine new on ebay for $279). It was worth it to me as I work from home and listen to some electronic music. Here are ebay listings now: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=jbl+lsr310s&_sop=15 Monoprice has a studio sub at $220 that would work (http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=115&cp_id=11504&cs_id=1150401&p_id=605999&seq=1&format=2 For cable connections it will depend on what audio interface you get (suggest you buy cables from Monoprice for their support - don't bother with Guitar Center or similar places as their cable prices are very high), however, I think you need the following: for the Behringer you have to use unbalanced connections, qty 4 TRS male x RCA male cables, a) connect the interface to your computer with the supplied USB cable, b) then connect the interface input to the sub input using two (left & right) male TRS x RCA cables, and c) then two more male TRS x RCA (one each, L&R) from the sub output to the 305s input. For the Lexicon Alpha, you would connect in a similar manner but can use balanced connections, total of 4 male TRS x male TRS.
For the Inclines and in considering your initial budget goal, you could go with any of the budget subs. My son has the Dayton SUB-800 http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sub-800-8-80-watt-powered-subwoofer--300-627 ($99 - $5 Labor Day coupon + $6.95 shipping). I'd spend another $20 and get the Dayton SUB-1000 because it supposedly goes down to 30 Hz http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sub-1000-10-100-watt-powered-subwoofer--300-628 You would need a subwoofer cable for the connection, such as https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-Subwoofer-Cable-Feet/dp/B003FVYXY0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1472740255&sr=8-3&keywords=subwoofer+cable
As I mentioned before, one the nice things about the Incline is that it has a built-in DAC; however, the "manual" isn't very helpful - this review does a good job of explaining the source input hierarchy and how to engage the DAC (there isn't an input selection switch so you have to unplug cables to make sure the DAC overrides your computer onboard sound card - in any case, use the USB input or optical for DAC): http://www.audioholics.com/computer-speaker-reviews/definitive-technology-incline-desktop-speakers-review
You will need HDMI cables to connect your sources (Xbox, AppleTV, etc...) to your Receiver. Another HDMI cable out from your Receiver and into your TV. And speaker wire to connect your speakers to your receiver. You will need wire strippers.. And an RCA coax cable to connect your sub to receiver
EDIT: Since it sounds like you're a beginner with setting up AV equipment, read through your TV and Receiver owner's manuals. There should be diagrams and hookup instructions.
After several months and hundreds of dollars I think I'm complete!
Turntable:
Kenwood KD-40R. One day I asked my dad if he had a turntable and this is what started it all. We found it in the attic, original box and in great shape. Replaced the needle and I was good to go. (Minus not having anything else, of course)
Speakers:
Sub:
Stands:
Receiver (hidden behind tv):
Cables:
Preamp:
Hi all -- long time lurker, first time poster.
Anyway, I'm looking for tech help regarding connecting my subwoofer to my speakers.
I have a Pioneer SW-8MK2 Andrew Jones Designed 100-Watt powered subwoofer.
I have Klipsch R-15PM Powered Monitor speakers.
Both are individually powered (obviously). To connect speakers to subwoofer, therefore, I just need an RCA cable. There's a single RCA input specifically labeled for connection to a subwoofer located on the back of the right Klipsch speaker.
Now, here's the slightly odd part. Instead of having a single RCA input on the subwoofer, the subwoofer instead has L and R dual red/white RCA inputs.
After reading extensively on how to connect this (read: booklet that came with subwoofer and internet) I discovered that it's perfectly fine -- and expected -- to use a single RCA cable, plug into the Klipsch subwoofer RCA input and then connect just into the "L" / white RCA input on the subwoofer.
So, I bought this RCA cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003FVYXY0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and tried connecting the subwoofer to the speakers. Subwoofer clearly turns on, speakers work fine but subwoofer isn't 'firing.' I tried turning volume on subwoofer up, and increasing the frequency to no avail.
Here's the frustrating part: in attempting to resolve the problem, I found myself pushing the RCA cable harder into the "L" / white input and ... the subwoofer STARTED WORKING! However, as soon as I released the additional pressure pushing the RCA cable into the "L" / white input, the subwoofer loses the 'connection,' and fails to continue emitting sound.
So, I figured that it was the cable's design preventing the RCA cable from completely getting a secure connection... so I ordered this cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DI89EZI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. I hook it up and it seems that the cable is able to go further into the subwoofer input this time, but, no dice, same thing happens, connect them normally, no subwoofer, but if I go and push the L OR R input on the subwoofer harder and subwoofer works.
Is there something particularly funky about this subwoofer that requires a VERY specific RCA cable to work properly? Or is it that the RCA inputs on the subwoofer are defective? Should I return the subwoofer, or does someone have this subwoofer and know of an RCA cable that works?
Thanks for reading this and taking your time to help a newbie.
I love Amazon but those cheap $2 ones didn't last long for me.
I've bought a Monster one (because I was feeling extra risky and felt like throwing my money away) that didn't last for 6 months.
I bought this: http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B004LTEUDO/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406677494&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=medialink+aux
and it's still running strong for over a year.
Good luck!
I've had great luck with my Mediabridge cable, purchased from Amazon 2-3 years ago. It lives in my car, gets constantly pinched by the lid to my center console, and has never once crapped out. It's got pretty sturdy construction and I honestly don't know how you could destroy this.
Yes, just a mini amp - pick up this - (its a clone of the original Tripath Lepai that's not made anymore, and has a great power supply)
and use the 3.5mm headphone output from your TV to either the RCA inputs or the 3.5mm input.
or
BOOM, you're done. It will drive those Polks just fine! I bought one just for fun and had it hooked up to both sets of my Polk floorstanding monitor 70's and monitor 60s and it had no problem!
For a source with the red & white outputs, but only a mic jack on the tape recorder, a Y-cable like one of these can probably patch them together.
Using a laptop as the source, the headphone jack along with a 3.5mm male-to-male cord to the tape recorder's mic input should work. If that renders it inaudible (you can't hear what's playing to monitor it as you record) a quickie solution would be to plug in a headphone splitter w/ headphones into the source device along with your patch cord.
Give the end recording a test listen to make sure the source volume is loud enough, but not so loud that the end result is overmodulated (staticky and crappy sounding).
If you are talking music and stuff, the easiest way is to connect the output connector of your player to the input jack of your computer and start a simply program that can record audio to wav or mp3.
A program likely will come with your OS and the only thing you need is a proper cable (depending on what the out-port of your tape recorder looks like) like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B004LTEUDO
If your playback device doesn't have a jack to plug external speaker in and only has internal speakers you could try putting it next to a microphone and record it that way.
If you have a tape with data on it instead of music things may be a bit more complicated.
If your headphones don't have a female connector at the cups, you'd have to mod it yourself.. using one of these
option 0
option 1
Then you'd just get one of these
cable
GUIDE
There are even more options for the female plug in the guide.
you dont need a dac unless you want an upgrade from the one already built into the imac.
just run an aux cable from the speaker output from the imac.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LTEUDO/
you want to strip the wires for the speakers. on the back of the amp there are posts for positive and negative, when you unscrew them they will reveal a hole, pass the bare wire through the hole and screw it down again.
http://imgur.com/n3YRN0g
if you cant figure out which is positive and negative touch the wires to a battery, if the speaker cone moves out, you have it correct, if it moves in, you have them backwards.
although, as long as you get them the same between the left and right speaker, it doesnt matter if you have them reversed.
Something like this is what I'm talking about. I'm just trying to run a Korg Monotron into my Scarlett 2i2. And considering there are very few cables in my small setup, one shitty one that adds noise to my recording is going to ruin it quite a bit, so I'm going to worry about it.
I see this question asked a lot and I have a very cost-effective solution that I notice a lot of people aren't aware of. I was thinking of doing a video guide of it though there are similar methods/walkthroughs on youtube.
DISCLAIMER: This may not be the best method for your specific setup. My method is not the neatest/simplest of setups, but it is cheap. Also, with this setup, your party members' voices will be recorded/streamed with or without their permission, so you should probably inform your party members before you start recording/streaming.
This is my setup for my Xbox One (should also work with PS4, though you may need different cables because IIRC Xbox One uses a proprietary 3.5mm socket):
Things you'll need:
1x 3.5mm splitter that splits mic and speaker.
This is the one I use (may need a specific one for PS4): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CTIOY9Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
2x 3.5mm to 3.5mm audio cables
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LTEUDO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
1x PC-compatible headset and microphone, preferably USB. (I use Astros A50)
STEPS:
The speaker audio coming from your controller is all the sounds you would hear if you had a headset plugged into your controller. What we're doing here is routing that sound into your PC's microphone input so your PC reads it as an audio input device.
The mic split from your controller is the microphone input that you would normally use to speak to your party if you had a headset plugged into your controller. What we're doing here is making it so that sound coming out of your PC is now being routed to the controller and therefore to the party/game chat.
And that's pretty much it. Phew. You will need to tweak some things based on the PC mic/headset you have.
Things I recommend using with this setup:
Adobe Audition to add filters to your mic for improved audio quality on your mic (you'll need VAC for this).
Starting from Microphone to GoPro HD Hero2:
AKG-D112 -> Shielded XLR-to-3.5mm stereo cable -> 3.5mm-to-6.3mm stereo adapter -> Microphone Preamp -> Shielded 3.5mm stereo cable -> GoPro Mic Input.
Mic is usually placed in a backpack in a side pocket or outer-most pocket with the microphone itself facing the source of the noise intended to capture (exhaust pipes). With the backpack being right behind me, there is usually a calm pocket of air there and wind noise is almost completely absent.
Amplifier is set to 35-40% volume.
Mixer "timer" & mixer "depth" turned all the way down/off.
Mixer DEFEAT is on. (Mixer is turned off)
*Yes, the total cost of this microphone setup is at or near what the GoPro itself costs. Wannafightaboutit? lol :) What good is a dope onboard video with garbage sound? Especially on a Ducati! My microphone solution is expensive because I needed to find a microphone that can pickup low frequencies at very high sound pressure levels (SPL). This microphone captures a claimed 20hz-17khz @ up to 160db. That is pretty ridiculous. Unfortunately this microphone also requires pre-amplification or I only get very low volume.
I am going to get one of these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008BMLXAU/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2FXGOPTIVRONJ&coliid=IPD58MORXUAJX
Since my speaker Amp and headphone amp are going to share a DAC.
You just plug it in-reverse, its a passive mechanical switch.
If you're paranoid you can just get this instead https://www.amazon.com/Sescom-SES-AUDIO-AB-Stereo-Audio-Switch/dp/B008BMLXAU?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0
Yep, just a simple switch. There's tons that are super cheap but are questionable quality. Probably the cheapest one that's recommended by audio people is the Sescom one.
https://www.amazon.com/Sescom-SES-AUDIO-AB-Stereo-Audio-Switch/dp/B008BMLXAU
You can install this before the Magni 3 (to get the pre-amp ability even for your Soundblaster Z) or after the Magni 3 to ensure the Magni gets a direct signal from the Modi. But reality any switch will work that fits your workspace as extra inputs for your speakers maybe beneficial.
Sescom SES-AUDIO-AB. It's not cheap but I like that it's a passive switch so I shouldn't lose any gain or cause any signal degradation from the DAC into either amp.
This switch is a bit cheaper than the Sys if you want to go that route.
AKA an integrated amp.
Maybe the AudioSource Amp100 (new model: Amp100VS)
Edit: JK the amp 100 is an auto switching amp.
Maybe a simple RCA switch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008BMLXAU/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1467057563&sr=8-10&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=rca+switch
And a SMSL SA50
I want to start a new setup from scratch, do I have everything I need? This may seem like a very elementary question but I keep learning that I need different cables for this and for that
Turntable (Includes RCA cable)
Amplifier (Built in phono pre- I don't still need a preamp, do I?)
Speakers
Speaker wire (This goes from the speaker to the amplifier? Until yesterday I thought they just used RCA cables. Are banana plugs universal for all speakers?)
RCA Cable into audio jack (For computer- is something better than this that would accomplish the same thing? RCA to usb?)
If it's an iPod you're using, you could consider using Airplay instead - This receiver is a pretty good value proposition. You could then pair these speakers with it. You'll definitely need speaker cable. You'll need to specify what sort of DVD player you've got, as well as what turntable - to then buy cables for connecting them.
I have that particular turntable, though mine is hooked up to a much smaller set of speakers. To put it in the simplest terms possible, you're going to need an amp and some speaker wire. Connect the turntable to the RCA input on the amp, then run speaker wire from the outs on the amp to the corresponding ins on the speakers themselves. That's it.
It looks like those Sonys can handle up to 60 watts @ 8 ohms, so they seem pretty efficient. You shouldn't need a ton of power to get them a little loud while still sounding good. As far as hardware recommendations go, I've been very happy with my little SMSL SA50. It should get you a nice, clean sound for less than $70 shipped. I went with these Mediabridge 16 gauge pre-finished cables, but you can always just cut your own and screw the bare ends down/clip them in if you're looking to save a few bucks or if your speakers lack binding posts.
There are also loads of vintage stereo amp options out there for less than $100 if you're willing to dig a bit and are comfortable with something that might have a few miles on it. I recommended the SMSL because it's compact, solid, and new in the box. Either way, enjoy your turntable and those Sonys you saved from the scrap heap!
Yes, I would add a sub next. That's should be a great setup for the price.
As far as connections go, yes, everything into the receiver then HDMI out to the TV. Assuming all source devices have HDMI out that's all there would be to it. Apart from that all you need is some cheap speaker wire or cables. I would go with these if your budget allows, both for simplicity and quality...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00I52I2PU/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1494616110&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=speaker+cable+with+banana+plugs&dpPl=1&dpID=41OPX07mV3L&ref=plSrch
If those are too expensive just get some bulk bare wire.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I52I2PU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I've had good experience with these cables.
edit: Nevermind. I forgot that I returned these cables for some reason other than sound quality.
I picked these up.
Without involving an external DAC: get a 3,5mm cord like that:
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Premium-Auxiliary-Headphones-iPhones/dp/B00R124LAK
Plug one side of the cable into the DS4 controller, the other side into the „line in“ jack of your a5.
Yes this is possible, you will need a headphone/microphone & headphone splitter as well as an aux cord. Here are links to both. I'm sure this can be done with a different splitter, but this is what I use and it works great! If you are looking for a cheaper one, make sure it is headphone/microphone & headphone splitter, because regular ones will not do the job.
http://www.amazon.com/Extrasensory-Devices-ESDHW010-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B006T637G8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
http://www.amazon.com/Anker-Premium-Auxiliary-Headphones-iPhones/dp/B00R124LAK?ie=UTF8&keywords=aux%20cord&qid=1465280604&ref_=sr_1_4&s=electronics&sr=1-4
yes im doing this on my Turnigy 9x tx: https://www.reddit.com/r/Multicopter/comments/3kaul2/anyone_know_of_a_us_shop_that_sells_the_rc_usb/
All you need is a headphone cable plugged into your 9x(http://www.amazon.com/Premium-Auxiliary-Headphones-iPhones-Stereos/dp/B00R124LAK), and then into the mic/line-in port on your computer. And then some fancy, free software that converts that into a controller that simulators can use!
I'd guess that it's not possible unless you have the music stored on your phone (not streamed). Most cars (at least from my experience) that don't have "cutting edge-ish" technology like Android Auto/Apple CarPlay don't see it as a phone, they see it as a media device to look for music on. Thus, they won't stream music playback, they will look for the files and try to play music from them. That's what it sounds like is happening with your old iPhone too.
The best shot as far as playing media that exists on device storage is looking for an option that might appear when you're charging the phone that says what it connected to your car as. It sounds like your phone might be connecting for charging only, i.e. no data connection. If you tap that notification or go into the developer settings (tap build number 7 times or so in about phone in settings), you might be able to change it to something to make your car actually recognize files on your phone.
Bluetooth is a different story, because your car treats it like an audio input like auxiliary input. Speaking of which...
Does your car have an auxiliary input (might be labeled as "aux" or "aux in")? If so, you can get a 3.5mm auxiliary cable like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Premium-Auxiliary-Headphones-iPhones/dp/B00R124LAK and just plug it in like that. If your only concern is audio quality, the cable should fix that. Just plug one end into your car, and the other into your phone's headphone jack.
Not sure where your aux jack would be, it might be inside the armrest (mine is in my '19 WRX). If not it might be next to your 12V DC out (cigarette lighter port), wherever that is, or next to your USB port.
Also, I'll add that using the aux jack is probably your best bet here, and will give you the same audio quality as if you were to plug headphones into your phone (at least, as close as your car's audio system can come to a pair of headphones, at which point it's the car, not the connection). Also those cables are super cheap.
If you somehow don't have an auxiliary port, there exists a weird gadget that plugs into your cigarette lighter port and has an auxiliary cable at the other end. You turn on your car radio and set the thing to the station you're on, and it'll play music through that. It's odd, but it does work (as long as you have a good station to use it with). Like this one, although that specific example is out of stock.
For the AUX cable? I just used one I had laying around the house, but I would recommend this one.
EDIT: I'm not sure about this because I don't own a capture card, but I think you can just use that and not have to worry about getting an AUX cable. YMMV
It's a 3.5mm cable, but they are often advertised as "Aux" or "Auxilliary" cables because many people use them to connect to the AUX port on Car stereos
That cable looks pretty plasticy. I had a pretty bulky and plasticy cable like that hooked up the SHP9500 and it was uncomfortable when hitting my shoulder. It also passed a bunch of vibrations to the headphones which wasn't pleasant.
Most will recommend VMODA: https://www.amazon.com/V-MODA-Extended-Audio-Cable-Black/dp/B00MYTR7KQ/
I have the aux cord from ANKER and it's pretty decent. Should come in a longer length as well: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Premium-Auxiliary-Headphones-iPhones/dp/B00R124LAK/
I'll also point you to the aux cord from status audio: https://www.amazon.com/Status-Audio-Headphone-Universal-one-button/dp/B01F2NT3TS/
The amp says it can play from MP3 players using the 3.5mm jack so you'd just need a male-male 3.5mm cable afaik:
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Premium-Auxiliary-Headphones-iPhones/dp/B00R124LAK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1478038592&sr=8-3&keywords=3.5mm+audio+cable
3 x HDMI inputs
1 x HDMI output (supporting ARC)
1 x 3.5mm Analogue/digital combi
Its there in the 3.5 jack. Just need a special cable thing:
https://www.amazon.com/FosPower-Toslink-Digital-Connectors-Strain-Relief/dp/B00T8HWUVS/ref=pd_sim_23_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41QcDXYtJOL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=E6J4G8BM6TAZS69JVXF8
Basically the optical lens is at the bottom of the barrel jack. That "cable" in the link will take the standard square TOSlink on one end and connect into the 3.5 jack on the other.
The 3.5mm output on the Chromecast Audio also doubles as a mini Toslink (digital optical) output. You are probably more familiar with the regular size Toslink digital output that is more common. Here is an adapter that takes you from mini Toslink to Toslink.
If your DAC only accepts a Coax digital input, though, you will need to take that a step further with something like this that converts from Toslink to Coax.
I have not used either of these products, specifically, and therefore cannot attest to their quality or performance. You may want to research their quality and/or consider similar alternatives from other manufactures. I just wanted to provide you with some examples.
Personally, I use just CCA with 3.5mm to RCA analog output right into my amp, and find its internal DAC decent enough for my purposes.
The Chromecast Audio already has a digital audio out. You can get a mini Toslink cable like this and make it work with your amp: https://www.amazon.com/FosPower-Toslink-Digital-Connectors-Strain-Relief/dp/B00T8HWUVS
You can also look into a Raspberry Pi based system along with one of these for a toslink output: https://www.hifiberry.com/products/digiplus/
I don't know of any good quality mechanical keyboards (in your price range) that come with a volume wheel or dial. Have you considered getting a standalone [Volume Control](http://www.Volbox.com/ Volume Adjuster Stereo Control Knob 3.5mm 1/8" Headp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XDKKQ9E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_SsC.ybGQQKYET)?
If you're OK with it, most recommendable mechanical keyboards have volume control on a layer, as in you press Fn + I for example to do Volume Up.
If you're ok with settling for an alternative these are two potentiometers I've been considering. An unbalanced CF is hard to find.
USB - www.amazon.com/dp/B01MV411BR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_l5urzbAKPJNGD
USB #2 - www.amazon.com/dp/B071H5XQ1F/ref=cm_sw_r_cpawdb.bvrzb2PZKAQP
3.5 in/out - www.amazon.com/dp/B00XDKKQ9E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_c8urzbT4JJPR6
you ll need an attenuator then like the Volbox inline audio volume control attenuator 3.5mm 1/8" aux https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XDKKQ9E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RwLPDbCVTE2YX basically you put it between your tv and the audio output
You can probably simply find an inline volume control and use any device you want with it
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XDKKQ9E/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1486085145&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=inline+volume+control&dpPl=1&dpID=41y%2B2R-WN4L&ref=plSrch
You use a 3.5mm stereo to 2 x 6.3mm mono.
Like this: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Splitter-Computer-Multimedia-Speakers/dp/B00ZKM3S4S
(or other similar cables)
I wonder if has something to do with mono vs. stereo - maybe you need to use an 1/8” to stereo 1/4” cable? This is how I record mine.
UGREEN 3.5mm 1/8" TRS to Dual 6.35mm 1/4" TS Mono Stereo Y-Cable Splitter Cord Compatible for iPhone, iPod, Computer Sound Cards, CD Players, Multimedia Speakers and Home Stereo Systems 6FT https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZKM3S4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZzMwCbVPC6V9C
Out of curiosity, what happens if you turn up the drum group (hold mixer button at the top and turn green dial)?
Getting a set of T0s my self. :-)
Amazing little speakers and a sub out.
You need one of these and connect to the T0's analog input to the 6i6's line output.
AmazonBasics Subwoofer Cable - 15 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8GYG/
Is an example.
subwoofer cable: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Subwoofer-Cable-15-Feet/dp/B01D5H8GYG its just a simple RCA to RCA cable, nothing special.
AV Receiver ($140): https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/denavrs530bt/denon-avr-s530bt-5.2-ch-x-70-watts-bluetooth-a/v-receiver/1.html
Left and Right Channels ($99): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008NCD2LG
Center Channel ($99): https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-SP-C22-Designed-Channel-Speaker/dp/B008NCD2EI/
Subwoofer ($120): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AJHAZZ4
Speaker Wire ($12): https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0W5Y/
Subwoofer cable ($9): https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Subwoofer-Cable-15-Feet/dp/B01D5H8GYG/
High Speed HDMI Cables ($7, as many as you need): https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Certified-Premium-Ultra-Speed/dp/B074VBWPMZ/
The reason I recommend those specific HDMI cables is because I've never had any issues with Monoprice certified HDMI cables being able to properly transmit a 4K HDR signal.
Of course, you can buy the wires longer or shorter depending on your needs. And the brand doesn’t really matter.
This kind of cable for receiver -> speakers: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LW0W5Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PHcACb67FBW98
This for receiver-> subwoofer: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8GYG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sIcACbEKE23WA
You will need to hook a music/sound source to the receiver. It’s up to you how you want to do that.
Amazon basics
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-14-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B01D5H8XOY
Speaker cables are speaker cables and unless it's really cheap there's no difference. Either head back to Richer Sounds and get the cheapest they've got or get this. I've used both (and other even cheaper stuff) and the main thing you should worry about is what colour you prefer!
You do not want a surround sound for listening to music. It sounds like you may just want music playing in multiple locations at once? Maybe a few echo dots will accomplish this?
​
If you want stereo https://www.amazon.com/Micca-OriGain-Compact-Integrated-Amplifier/dp/B01LXV4O6B/ref=sr_1_14?keywords=integrated+amplifier&qid=1563468321&s=gateway&sr=8-14
​
Or used receiver for under $100
​
with these: https://www.amazon.com/NHT-SuperOne-2-1-Bookshelf-Speaker/dp/B00LJX4HCY/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=2Y3962S45UIV9&keywords=nht+speakers&qid=1563468383&s=gateway&sprefix=not%2Caps%2C317&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1
​
Cables https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZZ5HCTM/ref=twister_B07FZTB7JS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
​
​
Edit: NO RECIEVER/AMP OPTION: https://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-2017-R-14PM-Powered-Monitor/dp/B075JRF295/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp?crid=IAJ40GS5HNR2&keywords=powered+bookshelf+speakers&pd_rd_i=B075JRF295&pd_rd_r=976d8e8f-5a7d-4eaf-9a25-945ea56cf7dd&pd_rd_w=ES2tz&pd_rd_wg=IjwCE&pf_rd_p=a6d018ad-f20b-46c9-8920-433972c7d9b7&pf_rd_r=M6B9F6HZNVBK06MJQ211&qid=1563468625&refinements=p_36%3A25000-30000&rnid=386442011&s=electronics&sprefix=powered+book%2Celectronics%2C153
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=9436 and https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=14915 or buy premade for $20 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZZ5HCTM
16 gauge is fine for those
Would this Denon receiver be good for a long time? With the smsl ad18 I was gonna use these cables, but I guess they wouldnt work with that receiver.
Thanks for the input. So if I were to go with the MX3, does it connect to pc via usb? Then connect the 3.5m to rca from the MX3 to the sub and this from the XM3 to the Micas?
I am new, no idea how most of this stuff works.
I was in a similar situation and ended up getting a pair of KEF Q150's with a Yamaha RX-V385 receiver. The Yamaha isn't on sale anymore but the KEF's are still at $398 from $650.
When I bargained with 2001 Audio Video, they offered me the KEF's for $350 (from the sale price of $398) and the Yamaha 385 for $280 (from the sale price of $299). And the KEF's come with a free pair of bluetooth headphones.
Visions will give you a good discount as well, but they'll try and push their house brand Soundstage first.
You'll get a better deal bargaining at one of those places versus buying from Amazon.
I just have the 2.0 setup right now but I'm happy with the KEF's and the receiver leaves lots of room to upgrade in the future.
And I got these wires to connect, and then these HDMI to connect the receiver with everything else
Sure thing! Here's a pic for reference - you'll want a balanced TRS cable like the one on the left in the image. If you don't have any on hand, here's a link; get two.
Like two of this https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CSS-110-Balanced-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068NYH
I already have 2 of these ( http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CSS110-TRS-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068NYH/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1319524911&sr=8-2 ), would they work from the mixer to the monitors? I really dont know the difference between TS and TRS (isnt it more than just stereo capability)?
I recommend these Hosa TRS cables: http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CSS110-Interconnect-Cables/dp/B000068NYH
Hey, I am also using a set of the MK1 version of the LSR305 with a PC. I think everyone is spot-on about the ground loop isolator. If you are looking for a cheap fix, try that first.
Beyond that, like many have suggested - the on-board audio from a PC can be noisy. An external DAC is also a good suggestion, but also a more complicated one, in terms of what all you will need to buy. If you wish to go this route, I will make a recommendation that I can confirm works very well (noise-free, even at high volume) with the LSR305's:
Either way don't stress over it - the LSR305's are a great choice.
I'm also looking for a DAC for the LSR305. So far, the Scarlett 2i2 2nd gen seems to be one of the most popular.
In the case of the 2i2, you would need:
and
or
Whichever DAC you decide to get you should get one with balanced outputs like TRS (Scarlett 2i2) or XLR (Scarlett 2i4). It doesn't make any difference as far as sound quality if output is TRS or XLR or if you use XLR to TRS cables.
So, as I said I'm looking for a DAC too and although the 2i2 is popular I haven't setled on it yet; I'm just a casual music listener and I feel the recording inputs will be wasted if I get the Scarlett as I don't do any recording at all, ever.
I just wand a decent DAC (<$200) that has volume control and balanced outputs (and optionaly, very low prio, a headphone output).
Yes it will and you need two 1/4" TRS cables like these:
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CSS-110-Balanced-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068NYH
My Presonus Audiobox USB only had one headphone out, so I got one of these for your exact purpose: https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Pro-PHA40-4-Channel-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B003M8NVFS/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=headphone+mixer&qid=1557174542&s=gateway&sr=8-9
just get a male-to-male TRS cable ( https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CSS-110-Balanced-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068NYH/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3QR9Z2RFJ35EW&keywords=trs+cable&qid=1557174680&s=gateway&sprefix=trs%2Caps%2C164&sr=8-3 ) to output from your audio interface into this mixer and then plug both headphones into the mixer and adjust the levels accordingly. Works great!
Here is a set of TRS adapters, comes with 2 pieces of both 1/4 to 3.5mm and 3.5mm to 1/4, so one of those, and then you can grab 2 of these male to male 1/4 TRS cables. I don't know about the quality of these - monoprice ones I linked are quality - 16AWG.
Another thing I failed to mention is that most equipment runs 1/4, yet another reason to choose the run as 1/4 - most external audio interfaces have 1/4 TRS outs (hell, you could use these cables for an electric guitar if you wanted).
Tldr at the end
I can't find any schematics for the cable so I'm not 100% sure it would work, but judging by some size comparisons, I think you could use some jumper cables meant for breadboards. If you could give me the size of the port of an individual pin of the 8 pin connector I can verify.
If the size is 2.54mm then for around $6 you can get: Multicolored Breadboard Dupont Jumper Wires - ALLUS J7011 120Pcs 3in1 Ribbon Cables Kit, Male to Male (M/M), Female to Female (F/F), Male to Female (M/F) for Arduino and Raspberry Pi https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073X7P6N2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oseBDb0RSX6HQ.
You can get a 10 foot 1/4 TRS for ~$6 on Amazon: Hosa CSS-110 1/4" TRS to 1/4" TRS Balanced Interconnect Cable, 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068NYH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7ueBDb0M84YBM.
You're looking at about $7 for the xlr: AmazonBasics XLR Male to Female Microphone Cable - 6 Feet, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JNLTTKS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0weBDbQNK67CW
If you have a trs cable, jumper cables, or an xlr cable at your house it will be cheaper. You would also need a soldering iron and some solder ~$10-$15.
It depends on the supplies you need. Assuming you don't have the cables but you have the soldering iron you're looking at about $20. Otherwise it is the same price.
Tldr; it's only $10 cheaper if you don't have a spare xlr, 1/4 TRS, or jumper cables. If you don't have any of the cables as well as the soldering iron, it's the same price.
And what happens when you try it without the subwoofer in your chain? I'd guess that is the source of your interference.
Have you tried balanced audio TRS cables from your audio interface to your monitors? If not you definitely need to do that too. The cable you linked is an unbalanced - all RCA connectors are going to be unbalanced.
Balanced audio cables are designed to eliminate interference, static, and background noise. It sounds like you are having all those symptoms but are using consumer, unbalanced cables rather than professional balanced cables.
http://www.aviom.com/blog/balanced-vs-unbalanced/
Yeah thats definitely a form of ground loop interference. Most likely coming from your GPU leaking voltage to the common ground.
Yes that is the mixer i was talking about. The only change i would make is to run the phono pre-amp into the "Line in 2/3". You'll need some RCA to 1/4' TS adapters. That way you have level control over it.
Also, you will need some balanced 1/4" TRS cables to go from the mixer to the speakers.
I also bought the LSR305s and was getting a lot of background noise from my motherboard. I picked up a Behringer U-PHORIA UMC202HD for $50 on sale. Looks like you can pick it up for ~$100 on amazon or eBay right now. It has balanced TRS outputs and you can independently control the speaker and headphone volumes with the knobs on the right side.
Make sure you also have a pair of TRS to TRS cables. I use these.
Edit: I forgot you'd also need a 1/4" adapter for your headphones as they come with a 3.5mm one.
Alright, thanks! Would something like this work? (Maybe there's a better quality brand I should look into?) http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CPR203-Dual-Inch/dp/B000068O18/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1408054622&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=TS+to+RCA
Also, if you don't mind me adding onto the question, I'd like to try my best to milk my DAC/Amp for as much as possible. Would you recommend going for something better than the Magni and/or replacing my DAC in the future if I want the most out of my sound? Thanks again.
[THIS](https://www.amazon.co.uk/HosaTech-CPR-203-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O18/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464704538&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=1%2F4+to+rca
) will connect them.
After some more looking around I think that i have settled on getting this tv, Focusrite, digital from tv to focusrite, and these cables to the JBLs. I believe this will be a pretty solid setup, I made sure the tv is compatible and has the digital out. Unless anyone has other options or input that would be better I think ill be set with this. Based heavily on this review on amazon.
edit: after some more looking around im wondering if its worth getting the focusrite 2i2 for balanced outputs
Yeah, monitor out jacks aren't going to provide significant power. Most monitors are self powered (have a built in amplifier) in fact.
Computer multimedia speakers will work, but I really feel like you'll be disappointed in and poorly served by their performance.
I'm sorry it doesn't save you much cabling, but the very least expensive but reasonable sound you can get would be an inexpensive tripath amp (Lepai 2020a+ can occasionally be found for ~20$) and a pair of inexpensive speakers, like the Dayton B652-airs (around 60$, sometimes a little less).
Though I guess since you're legitimately considering a portable mono-speaker, you really won't mind, so I'll redeem my post by linking what I believe to be the kind of adapter need if you want to stick with the computer speakers: http://smile.amazon.com/Hosa-YMP-434-Female-8-Inch-Breakout/dp/B0010D0HO0
And here's the one that's best if you end up getting an amp: http://smile.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CPR203-Dual-Inch/dp/B000068O18
It depends on the DJ mixer, but it'll probably be dual RCA outputs (two mono channels (Left and Right) to make Stereo). So you'll probably need a dual RCA to dual 1/4" to record the two channels, like this.
I'm trying to connect a pair of JBL 305 powered monitors and an SVS PB-2000 sub to a simple 3.5mm laptop. I've tried researching on my own but I have no idea how the RCA inputs are supposed to connect together.
I imagine I would connect these to connect the speakers to the sub, and then these to go from the sub to my laptop?
The SVS PB-2000 has both RCA ins and outs, so this should be possible, correct?
Thanks for your response. So if i want stereo i need to have two cables, right? Can i use this TS (MicroKorg L/R) to RCA (my interface) cables? https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CPR-203-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O18
I think your problem is with using TRS cables. You need to use unbalanced mono TS cables like these: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CPR-203-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O18
Also, not sure about using an external audio effect. I just create a new audio track and make sure input 1&2 are selected from the interface to give you a stereo signal from the 404.
I can find only fragments of the other thread you're referring to, but the TS-to-RCA cable is legit. It's not an adapter or coupler or anything like that. It certainly won't be the best connection option, but again, it works (it wouldn't damage the audio interface or the speaker), and it would cost far less than a pair of new monitors.
I looked at those speakers you have (or had). They're these? Those are more like bookshelf speakers, not active studio monitors. And $400 for the pair? You can do better than that for less money.
The JBL 305P monitors are another popular choice. They cost $150 each, and taxes/shipping could push the cost of the pair past your $300 budget. But both the Presonus and JBL monitors are fine choices.
For the sub you'll just need 1 coaxial RCA cable out from the receiver (Like what I linked below for the Fiio).
One coaxial cable for the DAC into the receiver, Like this cable
and two RCA to 1/4 TRS cable for the receiver to the JBLs, Like this cable
If you already have the JBLs hooked up via the Fiio you should already have those last two cables.
Something like this is your most likely cable.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000068O18?cache=b9657fc9ba86e8895988aae84f36842e&amp;pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&amp;qid=1407371123&amp;sr=8-11#ref=mp_s_a_1_11
Cool, thanks again. I ordered the Modi 2 uber, Asgard 2, LSR305, and this RCA to TS cable (said it would work for TRS. I could not find a true RCA to TRS cable).
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-310-inch-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O3I
Or
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMS-110-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O36
For an inexpensive solution:
3.5mm to 1/4" cable
Headphone/Line output on the amp -> Mic input on the computer
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMS-110-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O36/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=3.5mm+to+1%2F4%22&qid=1566307817&s=gateway&sr=8-15
but with the 2i2, i can still use both of my speakers? and i also need something like this?
And i didn't quite get it. I should get a DAC aswell? which one?
> 1/4" TRS to 3.5mm TRS
It will make sense when you see it. It goes in the MON Send port above Line 3/4, and runs to your Mic In.
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMS-110-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O36/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1543366151&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=3.5+mm+TRS+to+1%2F4%22+TRS+Stereo+Interconnect+Cable
You then use the AUX Mon knob on the Mic channel to send your microphone signal to the PC, make sure AUX Mon is turned down for all other channels
What size is the audio-in port on your sound card? Is it 3.5mm or 1/4 inch? If it is 3.5mm I recommend this Hosa CMS-110 3.5 mm TRS to 1/4 inch TRS Stereo Interconnect Cable, 10 feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O36/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ruMbzbQFG7TV5
Quick question for people who know! I can get a USB sound card that has a Headphone and MIC plugin... Is it possible to just get one of these and connect it to the guitar and then into the MIC input on the sound card?
Thanks!
-aledclar
The B112D's take 1/4" TRS inputs or XLR. The XLR connector on the speaker end is female, hence why you need a male cable (can't connect two female connectors!). I'm pretty certain by 2.5" you mean 1/4" (which is the same size as is used on guitar leads, and is larger in diameter than most headphone/earphone connectors). Unrelated but for future reference 3.5mm is often referred to as 1/8", which makes no sense since they're not the same diameter but shhh...
Of course, I imagine a 1/4" TRS to 3.5mm TRS cable should work just as well as the solution I posted, just connect the smaller, 3.5mm end to your laptop, and the larger, 1/4" end to 'Input 1' on the speakers. Then use the daisy-chaining technique I outlined in the parent post.
If you need stereo separation then that's a completely different matter, if it wasn't already complicated!
What does the adapter look like? I'm not sure what civilian plane jacks mean - do you mean the ones you plug into on regular flights for the in-seat entertainment?
If you can get another adapter to a stereo 1/4" plug, at $25 this would be in your price range with change:
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Ultra-Compact-4-Channel-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B000KIPT30/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482162286&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=headphone+amplifier
The stereo 1/4" plug would look like this (the one on top, the smaller one on the bottom is your regular headphone plug for scale): https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMS-110-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O36
Close, try this cable:
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMS-110-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O36/
Now if you have an AUX cord (like the wire you'd use to plug an iPhone into a car or set of speakers), that's a 3.5mm stereo minijack cable. You could use that with an adapter like this- you stick this adapter in the back of the mic's receiver pack, then use your AUX cord to go from this adapter to the laptop's Mic port.
Whether you use adapter and aux cord, or the adapter cord I linked, the result is the same.
Okay... so I just need to repeat these are probably not the best options... #1 is probably the worst option and may or may not work... and I can't guarantee you will get the best sound quality out of either but here ya go:
(1) If you only have a 1/4 or 1/8 out, you can run a cable with two male connectors from the stereo to your computer's mic input. They would either be a 1/4 to 1/8 cable or a 1/8 to 1/8 cable.
(2) For RCA output, you can a RCA to 1/8 cable into the computer mic input or run a regular RCA cord with this RCA to 1/8 adapter.
None of this is ideal, but for under $10 it might be worth giving it a try and messing around with it if you have the time and patience. Hope this helps. If none of this works... sorry...
Sorry man. You can plug headphones into the headphone jack, but you don't have to, you can run FROM the headphone jack INTO your Soundcard. Your headphone jack is either a big one (1/4 inch guitar cable size) or it's a little one (1/8 inch, the size that earbuds use). You may need a $5.00 adapter from Walmart/Radio Shack/The Source to go from 1/4 inch, to 1/8 inch.
Latency is a function of your recording software and your soundcard. You might have to adjust your multi-track software or your soundcard driver to reduce latency, but there's no reason to think that you have to live with latency. My computer 15 years ago had zero latency. Software developers typically set a default for playback, they're not typically considering people who record. So they allow lots of latency. But you're literally looking for a slider in your soundcard driver.
I can't be super specific because I don't know what type of computer you have - laptop, desktop, PC, Mac, or what multi-track software you're using, or what your soundcard is.
Allowing latency when you're mixing 32 tracks stops you from dropping out and crashing - if you've got three or four tracks on the go, you don't need latency.
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMS-110-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O36/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480020460&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=1+4+to+1+8+adapter
or
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LPI9ULK?psc=1
Okay, would this work?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068O36/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
This is my setup for recording using a portable audio recorder in the C152's I'm training in.
I use a 1/4" 1 male to 2 female Y-splitter that goes into the headset plug in the plane. One of the split ends will have the headset plugged into it.
The other split has a 1/4" to 3.5mm adapter, which I have a male-to-male 3.5mm cable plugged into. The other end of the 3.5mm cable is plugged into the audio-in port of a portable audio recorder. Total cost of the cable setup is about $15 CAD, most of the cost being the Y-splitter.
You only need to plug into the headset plug in the plane, not the mic, as your mic will be mirrored to your headset anyway so you can hear yourself speak.
Quick search on amazon I did to try to find suitable products:
1/4" Y-splitter: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O53/
1/4" to 3.5mm adapter/cable: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O3D/
The Y-splitter is mono as most older planes will be mono. The cable is mono to stereo so it'll send the mono audio to both stereo channels in your recorder.
I realized my laptop has a combination jack so would only be mono mic input (I assume)
So if I brought a headphone microphone breakout cable (Breakout) and then got a 1/4 inch mono to 3.5mm mono cable (Cable) that would work right?
From my understanding, the iTrack dock is just an audio interface designed for iPad. So yes, you would send the output from the Bastl Dude into the input of the iTrack dock to record into the DAW.
You probably know this, but if not: to do this, you'll need a 3.5mm cable with a 1/4 instrument adapter to line in to the iTrack dock, or one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-110-3-5mm-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O3D
> So there really isn't a term for something like a bookshelf speaker that has an amp?
"Powered studio monitor" should get you pretty far, and the JBL LSR305 is a great one for the money. I had just assumed it was too large and ugly for your needs - I was under the impression you were still looking for something like this.
EDIT - to ensure you get both audio channels, you'll need some sort of mono converter, something like this
I have the 1204USB which is slightly different than your mixer, but I am pretty sure you were on the right track with the "FX send" port -- on my mixer it's the "AUX send", and it's what I use.
You need to pick up a Mono 1/4 ->3.5mm cable like this one. This will take the mono signal from the "FX send" and put it into a stereo signal (Which will just be the mono signal in both ears, but that's fine for a microphone). Then you'll create a mix minus by putting all the red "FX" channel knobs to -infinity except for your microphone's channel, which should be at "0".
Hopefully that works for you!
Use one of these 1/8" mono to 1/4" mono. MS20 Main Output to 1/4" input on the Behringer. Skip using the headphone jack. It does have a small amount of amperage to drive headphones and it's not the best way to get audio to a line level input.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068O3D/
Your explanation makes perfect sense. You have a balanced output and a stereo input. These two things do not work together. I would expect exactly the problem you are having.
The best solution without making a custom cable is probably going to be to get a cable that breaks out the 3.5mm connector into two connectors, which you can then wire together with a Y-cable. This will ensure that both signal pins on the 3.5mm connector are connected to the same signal. (If you use a mono (i.e. TS) 3.5mm connector, only one channel will get a signal when you record.)
One way to do this would be to get the following cables/adapters:
You could use a different combination of cables, for example using 1/4-inch TS connectors in the intermediate stages instead of RCA.
Alternative approaches:
Hi,
I have Edifier R1280T speakers which have 2 sets of RCA Inputs.
I have 3 sources of audio: a turntable, a chromecast audio, and a Roland Quad-Capture.
I'm wondering how I can connect all three sources to the two inputs (2 white, 2 red) on my speakers. I tried RCA Male to Dual RCA Female but the sound was very quiet.
Would RCA piggyback cable work or would I just have the same issue?
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
Guessing your output are rca
Hosa YRA-104 RCA Male To Dual RCA Female Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O4Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_K65nxbJWT24WQ
Wow, you are a library of knowledge, thank you very much for helping me out. I just found the JVC at a yard sale for 5$ and couldn't pass it up especially since I was looking for an amp that had a phono input.
Some more follow up questions:
> Yes. An RCA splitter like this would work: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-YRA-104-Dual-RCAF-Y-Cable/dp/B000068O4Y/
So I would need to get four of the RCA-to-Dual RCAF, two for the line out on the Yamaha (left and right) and two for the Tape-1 Rec on the JVC, correct?
>On your JVC, when you select Phono as your input, and TAPE MONITOR enabled, the RIAA-equalized and volume controlled signal will get sent to the Tape Out jacks, so you could send that to the Yamaha only (using the JVC essentially as a phono pre-amp), or split the Tape Out and send the signal also back to the JVC for amplification and have the sound come out of both amplifiers and all four speakers at once.
I'm still not 100% sure I completely understand the function of Tape Out (which I assume is the 'Rec' input on Tape-1?) So on the front of the JVC I'm having a little trouble understanding all the buttons. If I select Phono input and press the Tape-1 button and the Tape-1 'Rec' (I assume this is the same as 'out') split so that it goes to both the Yamaha and back into the Tape-1 'Play' (I assume this is the same as 'in') then I will be playing the phono through both amplifiers and both amplifiers will have the same adjustments made to the signal (the one from the phono input), however, they will amplify them differently (depending on the volume level of each amplifier, correct?)
Is the 'TAPE MONITOR' you refer to the same as the Tape-1 button on the front of the JVC?
If I switch on Tape-1 then there will be no output to the speakers without reconnecting the Tape Rec to the Tape Play, correct? This is why some receivers have the bridge you were referring to?
What do the buttons 'SUBSONIC FILTER' and 'SEA REC' do? Also what does the EXT-NR DUBB under the Tape 1 and Tape 2 buttons mean?
I don't expect you to know this one but I'll try anyways, any idea on the difficulty of the repair or the type of bulbs of the light bulbs behind the little wattage meters on the front of the JVC that light up as little blue circles? Both seem to be busted, but I think they look really neat lit up.
Again, thank you for letting me utilize your obvious well-versed brain
What I've did in the past (and what the OP probably ended up doing is buying a Y-splitter (link below) and plug the single end of it to the Denon output labeled "SW" and then connect his RCA's to it and the other end to his subwoofer.
Hosa YRA-104 RCA Male To Dual RCA Female Cable
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-YRA-104-Male-Female-Cable/dp/B000068O4Y
Edit
I don't know why that link appears to take you to a review of the product I was talking about. I've edited my post and check the link and it still keeps doing it for me on my mobile even though it's the link copied from the items main page.. Strange
Yeah, it would be super easy to run two. If you already have power coming in for one, just extend it over to the second. Also would need to split the RCA cables (red & white, they provide the audio data from the interface/head unit).
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Showcase-6-Inch-Stereo-30S1-35260/dp/B000I98ZYG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483618943&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=audio+splitter+jack
> But every 1x 3.5mm female to 2x 3.5mm male I see online splits it into audio (green) and mic (pink).
That's because you're looking for TRRS splitters. You need TRS to 2x TRS like that link.
Like-a dis? http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Showcase-6-Inch-Stereo-30S1-35260/dp/B000I98ZYG
I had a similar setup before with my 360 and computer, worked fine, both channels.
This may work https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Showcase-6-Inch-Stereo-30S1-35260/dp/B000I98ZYG/ref=pd_sbs_23_4
I had a similar issue... I have hdmi to monitor, and monitor outputs to speakers, so I just switch HDMI when I want to go from pc to switch...
But... if you want both hooked up to audio simultaneously, here you go -
https://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Male-Female-inch/dp/B000I98ZYG
https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-40405-Female-Extension/dp/B001AN0E7K
Get those, it will allow to connect both the monitor and pc to the speakers at the same time. you will need that extension cable because the combiners cords are short.
Yup splitter
This ?
http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Showcase-6-Inch-Stereo-30S1-35260/dp/B000I98ZYG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463958041&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=audio+splitter+jack
http://www.amazon.com/Conwork-2-Pack-Plated-Stereo-Y-splitter/dp/B00ZNTPZLM/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463958041&amp;sr=8-12&amp;keywords=audio+splitter+jack
You could have used something like this for ages. Or something like this
I haven't actually tried this yet, although I've thought about doing it. Theoretically you could:
In theory that should work. In practice I'm not sure. I might actually try it really soon though.
I found these cables on Amazon, one seems to work for the purpose I'm going for while two doesn't. I'm really confused.
Cable 1
Cable 2
Something like This it splits one 3.5mm jack into two. One for voice one for sound.
I think a 3.5mm male to L/R Phono/RCA cable like this. You then hook it into the back of the receiver's input.
Some speakers to hook into the receiver will come in handy. Other than that I think you can just hook your headphones into the "phones" port on the front.
To record to your Mac run a simple RCA-to-3.5mm TRS cable from the receiver's "Tape Out" jacks into the computer's "Mic/Line In" jack. Your turntable remains plugged into the receiver's "Phono" input:
http://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-Feet-3-5mm-Stereo-Cable/dp/B000V0G2C4
BTW, here is a discussion somewhat related to your original question and thoughts on using a different type of speaker cable (RCA-to-TS):
http://www.hydrogenaud.io/forums/index.php?s=&amp;showtopic=106867&amp;view=findpost&amp;p=874344
Ahh cool. Well in that case you can probably get away with something like this http://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-Feet-3-5mm-Stereo-Cable/dp/B000V0G2C4
They make, and I had a rca right and left(red, and white) to 3.5MM. Here's one
Yes! Keep the speakers connected to the radio system and connect your PC sound card to the AUX IN via a RCA to 3,5mm cable.
This should do the job granted you have all the drivers installed for your motherboard
http://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-Feet-3-5mm-Stereo-Cable/dp/B000V0G2C4
You need a RCA to 3.5 mm cable and more importantly, you'll need a phono pre amp if you don't have one already and are using a phono input somewhere else.
I'm using a Sennheiser RS185 which has a RF tower for wireless sound transmission. There's nothing wrong with the headphones, but there is a problem I have with audio cables, and that's that for some reason the red and white analog cables don't work when connected to my computers. This is also true of my speakers.
As a result the way I've got it to actually work is by using something like this since these for whatever reason can be read by my computers properly, but I was wondering if I was missing out on sound quality or something by doing this and also if anyone happens to know why the red/whites don't work on the computer end, even though they do for TVs.
No, this old video card will use the regular PCI on your motherboard. The description says your motherboard has the appropriate slot. This PCI video card has a yellow RCA video out. Just combine it with one of these 3.5mm to RCA audio converters and you're got all three. That video card doesn't work with Windows 7, by the way. Windows XP 32-bit would be best. You can get Linux to work with it, but it's extra work. Nice retro feel.
Are you sure you don't want to buy a new LCD TV with HDMI? I guess CRTs are better for viewing older non-widescreen TV shows.
get 3.5 mm to rca cable, plug other end to your sound card, other to your (amp) stereo inputs.
here is the cable you need:
http://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-Feet-3-5mm-Stereo-Cable/dp/B000V0G2C4
random first cable that i got with google search (very literally), dont buy that one, find a better or cheaper one.
(these should cost like 2 dollars depending on length)
you might need something like this
Okay so I would get [something like this] (http://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-Feet-3-5mm-Stereo-Cable/dp/B000V0G2C4) and then run the white cord to one monitor and the red to the other?
Also, after a quick google search I've found a number of complaints about RCA connections as opposed to XLR. Is it really that much worse, or are they just serious audiophiles? If so, is there a way for me to use XLR with the iPhone/Zune?
I believe this will work.
Two of these:
http://www.fullcompass.com/product/397826.html
and one like this:
http://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-Feet-3-5mm-Stereo-Cable/dp/B000V0G2C4
Note, the links are for illustration purposes -- not necessarily recommendations for specific items.
u need one of these
im pretty sure there are some nexus7 installs on here...
i think the biggest problem is making it look good while sitting in the dash
didnt someone just put a small amp in place of the stereo due to theft ???
Ah, thank you for clearing that up. Would someone like myself be able to remedy the lack of being able to carry a digital audio signal by using a 3.5mm-RCA cord such as: http://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-Feet-3-5mm-Stereo-Cable/dp/B000V0G2C4
or should I just scrap that and go with an affordable DAC?
like this? (im gonna assume so cause i use that same system for my computer speakers with a large pc power supply).
http://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-Feet-3-5mm-Stereo-Cable/dp/B000V0G2C4
You can rip any wire out of a lamp or whatever and that will be fine instead of speaker wire (free!). What I did is I found a cheap ass old vintage amp from the 70's at a yard sale (I happened to find a Nikko 7075), paired it with the Model 6's and now have an amazing system for listening to music IMO. If you get an old style amp you will need one of these to connect your computer: http://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-Feet-3-5mm-Stereo-Cable/dp/B000V0G2C4 Gaming doesn't have surround sound but that's what headphones are for...
Ah i see. So simply connecting the red and white cables won't work. I'll need a adapter to connect it to the Audio Jack.
Do you think this will work? http://amzn.com/B000V0G2C4
I still need the red and white cords to connect to the wireless headphones. Would I just be able to use this and plug it into the headphone slot instead of the red and white slots?
Or would a RCA to HDMI adapter work better?
This PIE adapter might do it: http://amzn.com/B000P9SLCA . I'm not sure about compatibility with your head unit; it needs an IP-Bus port (like for CD changers) to hook into. Pair it with this cable and snake it out front somehow: http://amzn.com/B000V0G2C4
As long as you're comfortable getting back behind your radio, consider an upgrade. This one has USB and AUX inputs: http://amzn.com/B0068Y7HUS
this should work, however you'll also need an extension cable likely, to reach your other computer.
https://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-Female-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B0016LDZ36
same thing without the description, which you seem to be tripped up on.
There are MULTIPLE ways to resolve this:
Would this work?
http://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-Female-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B0016LDZ36/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1416171006&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=headphone+splitter+female+to+2+male&amp;pebp=1416171012689
Can I use something like this instead? https://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-Female-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B0016LDZ36 the elgato one you linked is for prime only, and the other sellers have it at higher costs. As well, I read a redditor say that it isn't great quality
both. It'll look something like this https://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-Female-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B0016LDZ36
Try this cable in combination with the one you already linked.
The overall volume is going to be lower when you use this cable.
To keep the volume the same you will need to buy a mixer.
It's a very basic cable like this: http://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-Female-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B0016LDZ36
Do you have earbuds for an ipod or phone? If so search couch cushions for change and buy this http://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-Female-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B0016LDZ36 also available at best buy http://www.bestbuy.com/site/monoprice-6inch-3-5mm-stereo-jack-two-3-5mm-stereo-plug-cable/1310944923.p?id=mp1310944923&amp;skuId=1310944923
Well... Why not just use some audio cables?
So, plug the microphone into PC #2, since that needs to have your microphone.
Plug in the outputs of PC 1 and PC 2 together using something like this plus this. Maybe this one would do it all in one go?
If you need longer cables, get an extension
Am I crazy? This'd work, right? As far as I know, audio cables don't have any directionality.
Well you could try this. Costs 1,5$ and might do the job well enough for you.
Can I use a female to 2 male 3.5mm splitter such as this one to split my headphone mic? Or will this not work because there's a different connection for mic and audio 3.5mm jacks?
I have a senheisser headset with separate audio and mic jacks
so this? Or am I misunderstanding?
If the Apple headphones have built-in mic then they use combined jack for mic and audio. Motherboard uses separate ports, so you will need a splitter cable. Example.
You might be looking for this.
http://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-Female-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B0016LDZ36/ref=pd_sim_sbs_e_13
Your headphone goes into the female end, and you've got one mail for the piano and another for your computer. Of course you'll probably need some extensions to reach each of the devices, but you can figure that out. Good luck!
That's really odd that HDMI would give you lower quality than DVI! I would suspect a setting somewhere in your video driver or monitor that makes the HDMI behave like a device that normally would overscan or zoom or something. Normally HDMI should be identical to DVI w/ audio on the cable. If you can't sort it out, an alternative could be to pick up one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/ASIN/B001TH7T2U
They do sell VGA adapters similar to the one I had, but I wouldn't recommend going that route. You will end up with a much better picture on DVI or HDMI since it's not doing the extra digital->analog conversion.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/ASIN/B001CJOLBW
And if the TV doesn't have a VGA input (which it probably doesn't), you can get one of these deals for pretty darned cheap. I actually have one connecting a modern PC to a late gen trinitron, myself.
Just a note about the seller on that one, they're lying when they claim it was made by monoprice. It's a generic Chinese VGA to composite converter box, and half a dozen different companies are all selling the same basic unit. This one happened to be the cheapest one of the kind I know works (which some of the other designs you'll see on amazon and ebay don't).
VGA to RCA converter. Looks like it does what you want. It even comes with all the cables you'll need.
Please tell us which kinds of outputs the PC has. VGA? HDMI? DVI? DisplayPort? Other?
Also, which inputs do you have on the TV? HDMI? Composite video? Component Video? SVideo? SCART? Other?
If you don't know, please tell us the models of the PC and the TV so we can look that stuff up.
In any case, you most likely need a box like this to convert from VGA to either Component or Composite video. Unless both your devices have HDMI then you just need a (cheap!) cable.
Your cheapest solution will be something like this: Amazon link. I've researched this scenario before, and even component->VGA adapters do not work unless your display device is designed for it. I've only ever seen the option on biz-class projectors.
You have to do this with a box device, because composite video (yellow) has all RGB color info compressed into one cable. VGA has discrete pins for each signal. The box is splitting the info up, and sending it down the proper paths.
DVI and Component (RGB) are compatible. VGA and Composite were not intended to be so.
I would recommend getting a converter box like this one http://www.amazon.com/PC-To-TV-Video-Converter/dp/B001CJOLBW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1299713255&amp;sr=8-2, it won't cost you much but it also won't look great unless you're watching videos or have an high definition tv
Best thing I could find
I've been using one of these for a few years now:
http://www.amazon.com/Lenkeng-104724-Monoprice-VGA-RCA/dp/B001CJOLBW?ie=UTF8&amp;keywords=vga%20to%20rca&amp;qid=1459448448&amp;ref_=sr_1_2&amp;s=electronics&amp;sr=1-2
You'll also need a DVI to VGA adapter, but you may have gotten one of those with the card, or have one left from a previous card. They're only a couple of bucks.
I bought one of these back in 2011. It worked fine for what I wanted to do.
Something like this would work. Really, you say you want the best picture though, upgrade the TV to one that has HDMI input and you will get the best picture.
Is this the kind of thing I would need? https://www.amazon.com/Lenkeng-104724-Monoprice-VGA-RCA/dp/B001CJOLBW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482937781&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=vga+to+s-video
Or does it just do the same thing?
Do you have any advice on what would be required for me to get that Xbox 360 wire to work on a computer? If that isn't possible, do you know if I can take apart an old Xbox 360 and use some components from it to get it working?
I'm pretty new to all this so I don't fully understand why you can plug an Xbox 360 (which is basically an underpowered computer) into any TV and it will display perfectly every time without fussing with the display. I've set up an old laptop connected to the TV using this thing before but it wasn't ideal because it's bulky, blurry, and worst of all is I had to adjust the bounding box every time I used a different TV.
So I could forgo having to hook up the speakers to the sub and instead use something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-Subwoofer-Cable-Feet/dp/B003FVYXY0/ref=pd_sbs_23_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=ZGVMBWB3TDPZXBEGV9JT
And plug that cable into the L or R input and plug the other end in the dedicated sub output on the SMSL Q5 pro output? Or I would still have to plug the speakers into the sub? Or I could just plug them into the amp? Correct?
Yes, but I doubt a single layer of shielding tape would turn this into this.
If I grab the BIC America F12 will I need anything other than this to connect the F12 to my A2+'s?
I have been putting together a 5.1 system, and was wondering if you would be able to take a look at it! Maybe something you would recommend other than what is here. This set up is a little more than I wanted to spend, but from what I have read about each piece, it seems to be worth it. Any advice is appreciated!
Denon S500BT
BIC America F12
Micca MB42X Center
Micca MB42X BookShelf
Fluance AVBP2 Surround
A few questions I have:
It's okay man, you are just starting out and that's all part of getting better sound. Upgrading is my favorite part because then you can really hear the difference!
Just so that I have it right in my head, the back of your subwoofer has an input for speakers? Does it have an LFE port? How many speaker inputs does it have? What this does is bypass the receiver to manage the sound levels to the "mids" and provide an amplifier to them, then the subwoofer connects to the receiver correct?
Your subwoofer has what are called speaker level inputs. It powers the speakers with the subwoofers amplifier. Most newer receivers (like the one you bought) have line level inputs, which are used to run self-powered subwoofers (which is what I'm assuming you have).
You should really connect the speakers you have directly to the receiver and buy a subwoofer cable that has RCA to RCA Connectors and then connect it to the AVR (receiver) to the subwoofer input. It will sound a lot better.
-Edit- (Depends on if your sub has an LFE output from searching the web for "Canton Subwoofer" it doesn't look like it has one, shit. It might though)
The best thing to do is take a picture of the back of the subwoofer and if possible how you have it hooked up to the receiver.
Nice set up all around though!
Just use something like this
Just use a single RCA cable for your sub. I recommend [this one.](Mediabridge ULTRA Series Subwoofer Cable (15 Feet) - Dual Shielded with Gold Plated RCA to RCA Connectors - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003FVYXY0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GS1Syb04D5C47) Your receiver will pull the subwoofer frequency out of the audio information and feed it to your sub, not your tiny bookshelfs. You need to set your front speakers to SMALL on the receiver and the crossover to 120 Htz. This should be done automatically when you set the speakers to small, but just double check. Turn your subwoofers crossover to the highest setting possible, as the receiver is doing the work here. Don't do it twice. Then listen to something, and adjust the sub's volume knob until you can barely hear/feel it. Then you know the volume is correct.
Enjoy!
EDIT: Why are you spending almost twice as much on your sub as you are your speakers? The speakers is where you'll notice the biggest improvement in sound. Start there with your budget, then improve other areas as you see fit. It'd be a shame to see you pay over $300 for a subwoofer and receiver that are fed to $80 speakers.
I'm a little confused if you're saying $500 for speakers alone, or the set up. Heres a list I put together for a friend who had the same budget. Hope this helps.
($200) http://amzn.com/B00B981F38
($10) http://amzn.com/B006LW0W5Y
($12) http://amzn.com/B005EZTUMU
($130) http://amzn.com/B00067OS0A
($130) http://amzn.com/B004LRPXAU
Edit: If you go this route, don't forget these.
http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-Series-Subwoofer-Cable/dp/B003FVYXY0/ref=pd_bxgy_e_text_y
http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-Series-Y-Adapter-Inches/dp/B004EBX5GW/ref=pd_sim_e_4?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=0HP63MCWR61GRJ58Y5BY
Wouldn't I want a single cable instead of a splitter?
https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-Subwoofer-Cable-Feet/dp/B003FVYXY0
This is the back of the subwoofer I'm planning to get.
https://i.imgur.com/nB81B6H.jpg
So it has a single LFE input, and then standard L/Rs next to it....if I get a single cable going from Transparent Zero's LFE output to that single LFE input, will it carry both L/R channels?
Hello, I need a little help. I need two RCA Cable for my JBL LSR305 Speakers that I recently bought. Will either of these Cable Works for Connecting an External DAC/AMP with RCA Out to dbx GoRack? One is Label as Digital Audio Coaxial Cable w/ RCA to RCA Gold-Plated Connectors & The Other is Label as Subwoofer Cable w/ RCA to RCA Gold-Plated Connectors.
I thought about that ....lol.
Yes his recommendation was 1 or 2 8' subs. Way too small.
Regarding wiring will this be ok for the sub and for the speakers?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006LW0W5Y/ref=ox_sc_act_image_3?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003FVYXY0/ref=ox_sc_act_image_5?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A1DCPNQKKEISZB
Do you know the best place that I could try and sell my soundbar other then eBay or craigslist. I would love to get this system going.
This one if you can afford it: Denon 1400H
This one if your $1000 total budget is an absolute limit for hardware: Yamaha RX-V383
You will also need speaker wire and a Subwoofer cable
I need help setting up my new setup, I"m a complete beginner to this so bear with me!
I bought the Klipsch R-15PM speakers, hooked it up to my computer via USB. That's working fine.
Then I bought the Pioneer SW-8MK2 subwoofer to hook up to the R-15PM. I bought the 1 male to 1 male RCA cable and connected it to the subwoofer out of the Klipsch and the L input of the Pioneer and it doesn't work.
Do I really need a Y-splitter for the RCA cable? The Klipsch has a built-in receiver, if I read correctly, so I don't think I need an external one. What should I do? Did I connect it wrong?
This may not be the cheapest option, but currently on my r53 I am running an aux kit from the back of my radio into the glove box and then I purchased a 5 foot aux cord so every one in the car can take a turn playing music.
Adaptor -https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000PA03AC/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8
Aux cord -
https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B004LTEUDO
This media bridge AUX cable is thiiick. I've only had it a month or two but I don't see myself ever having to buy another unless I lose it or slam it in a car door. 10/10 s://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LTEUDO/ref=cm_sw_rapa.iIJxb71V57C0
As for USB, anker w/ their lifetime warranty and excellent customer service. The Kevlar braided ones really aren't worth it unless you like the look IMO the rubber ones will last just as long it seems.
> Sennheiser HD 280s
Ow, those are indeed not bad at all. But the X1's will very likely surprise you. I mean, I currently on the HD 598s, which are very neutral / balanced headphones, designed for instrumental, classical, vocal music. Despite that, even with these headphones and a pretty budget sound card (don't buy a sound card!) they do sound pretty good when listening to electronic music, but they lack in the bass department, I mean.. it's obviously there, but it isn't very punchy.
The X1's don't even need to get an external DAC/AMP. I mean, they don't technically need an AMP at all, so you could consider to simply use the on-board audio for a start and see how you like the sound.
Note the X1's do need about a week of burn-in. This means that they will start to sound a bit better after a decent amount of usage.
Also I just read that the stock cable isn't that great, since it's a pretty high impedance cable. Which does affect the bass.
Cheap solution to fix this right away.
I also just read that you don't want to have a big head. If you do, they might be a bit tight / clamping.
---
Source
This is a big list, but you can simply hit "ctrl + f" and search for X1 to get a nice detailed review for these headphones in terms of build quality, comfort, design issues, sound stage & amping.
A wireless solution is the best, but the SA-AK240 has a "music port" on the front. Put all of your music on your iPhone/smartphone and connect it from the headphone port to the music port on your CD player using this cable http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B004LTEUDO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=undefined&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=mini+rca+to+mini+rca
As kschange suggested. Something like this plugged into your phone and stereo aux port is probably best idea.
Jesus, how old and behind the times is everyone in this thread? There's way too many of you using FM radio here that don't even like it. Invest in an auxiliary cable if you have an aux port. There are cars that probably date back to the 90s with aux ports. Oldest vehicle in my family that's got one is my dad's Sienna from '06. My 09 Accord has it.
Maybe you're driving something really, really old. Maybe, for some bizarre reason, you still have a cassette player in your car. Get yourself a casette adapter. Inserts into your cassette player, and you plug the other end into your phone, your iPod, whatever. Get Pandora, get Spotify, get Rhapsody (I recommend Rhapsody, it plays new shit depending on the artist).
I just use an iPod, aux cable, and play through that. So much more convenient than ever using that FM Radio that hardly plays music, and when it does, I heard the same song 9 times in an hour.
When you record with MIDI, you don't actually record any sound at all, you record which keys you press and when you press the sustain pedal and so on. All your actions, but no sound.
If you want to get the sound from the piano, you can use a cable from the headphone output on the piano, to the microphone input in your computer with a standard 3.5mm jack (unless you have a 1/4 inch in your piano, in which case you need the little transformer).
You will need a cable like this, but you'll most likely have one somewhere, it's a very standard cable.
Now you can just use any audio recording software you want. Audacity was mentioned, which could easily do it. I believe Windows has a built in sound recording feature, which could do it as well.
If you want to get a REALLY good sound, you should still use the MIDI format, but you'd have to get a good piano sound too. Here's a collection of good sounds. It's quite expensive though. You can edit your track with software too, I don't know if Audacity can do that, it might, but I use something called Reaper. If you made a missplay or something went wrong, you can remove a note, add notes, change velocity, everything. It's quite good and not that difficult at all. With the piano sound software (Komplete) you can use it in real-time too, to make your piano sound like the grandest of all the grand pianos, for an amazing sound, though I'd suggest you go for Synthogy then which, to me at least, has the superior sound.
Whelp, I went out on a tangent here, good luck OP!
EDIT: How do you like your piano? I have the Privia 850 here next to me, just waiting for christmas to set it up.
You will need a 3.5mm to 3.5mm M/M audio cable to transmit the audio from the computer and use your TV like speakers. As you have found out, DVI does not carry audio.
Examples of cables: http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B004LTEUDO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1372723680&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=3.5mm+audio+cable
So TV is connected to this: https://smile.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Male-2-Male-Adapter/dp/B004YEBK66?sa-no-redirect=1
Dot is connected to this: https://smile.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B004LTEUDO?sa-no-redirect=1
The cables from the TV and Dot go to this: https://smile.amazon.com/Monoprice-Headphone-Splitter-Separate-Controls/dp/B0016CFZQ0/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478454920&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=headphone+splitter+volume
And that splitter then connects with another one of these: https://smile.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B004LTEUDO?sa-no-redirect=1
Which then connects to the speaker.
Thanks for the help!
Anything like this or this would work then, I assume?
I just got this and this and run the phone without turning it's screen off. Gets the job done perfectly, also got a free GPS app that works great (Waze).
yeah, that's about the only thing I'm not a fan of. I have a pair of Audio Technica M50s and the plug-in jack is too wide to fit in the headphone jack, but I don't really use those with my phone too often anyway.
The thing that did cause an issue was trying to use the AUX jack in my car, to listen to my music. I owned 3 male-to-male audio cables and all of them had really wide jacks just like the headphones. I had to buy a specific cable to fit the case properly.
This is the cable I bought from Amazon and it fits perfectly. In case anyone else has a similar problem.
[This] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LTEUDO/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) is a popular replacement cable, quite cheap and the one I got. Don't need anything fancy - but I'm not exactly a cable believer.
I will say that the aux cable I use seems to need a little extra force to insert the last millimeter or so into my Nexus 5X. I don't know if this could be happening to you either. Are you able to check whether any other devices have this issue when plugged into your car the same way?
https://www.amazon.com/Sescom-SES-AUDIO-AB-Stereo-MP3-Switch/dp/B008BMLXAU
something like this? Link
Don't quote me on anything, but it looks like a passive switch, so you could do either
OR
Or any combination, if you have multiple.
35 bucks for a switch, a few connectors plus some wiring, in a cheap plastic enclosure and with this kind of soldering quality (picture of the innards of their RCA switch) seems kind of overpriced, to be perfectly honest.
I own one of these from Sescom. Simple RCA A/B switch. Works both ways. No volume knobs or other nonsense.
There are audio (and video) A/B switches that you can use to route 2 (or more) inputs (in your case PC and TV) to a single output (your JBL speakers). It will have a toggle switch of some type.
Here is an example (there are different types)
http://www.amazon.com/Sescom-SES-AUDIO-AB-Stereo-Audio-Switch/dp/B008BMLXAU?ie=UTF8&amp;*Version*=1&amp;*entries*=0
You would have to mix and match your cable types to make everything work, but it can be done.
>RCA inputs you can use an RCA to 3.5mm cord.
Exactly what I meant, just double checking that using those cords isn't taboo or something.
Will probably buy a DJPRE2 and This.
Thanks for your help. Really appreciate it.
Here is a actual switch: https://www.amazon.com/Sescom-SES-AUDIO-AB-Stereo-Audio-Switch/dp/B008BMLXAU?ie=UTF8&amp;*Version*=1&amp;*entries*=0
That's weird you don't like the A1 with the HD650's. IIRC Maverick tuned their amp around the HD650's.
The cheap way is RCA splitters at your Bifrost's output. The more expensive way is an RCA source selector/switch at the Bifrost. You can make one yourself pretty cheaply or there's this god awful $35 one I found on Amazon http://www.amazon.com/Sescom-SES-AUDIO-AB-Stereo-MP3-Switch/dp/B008BMLXAU/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1405438862&amp;sr=8-12&amp;keywords=rca+switch
I would spend a little more on something nicer, like [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Sescom-SES-AUDIO-AB-Stereo-Audio-Switch/dp/B008BMLXAU) or the aforementioned Schiit Sys. Though, for that cheap, it'd be a steal if it were to work well.
Actually, I have this RCA version.
https://www.amazon.com/Sescom-Stereo-Audio-Replacement-Switch/dp/B008BMLXAU
Review seemed fine. As long as it is passive it shouldn't affect SQ. I know Zeos uses this one but it is more expensive.
Is there something like this that isnt a piece of junk?
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/Sescom-Stereo-Audio-Replacement-Switch/dp/B008BMLXAU/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1537930851&sr=8-20&keywords=stereo+switch
Do you know what that's called? I'm assuming it's cheaper than this: http://www.amazon.com/Sescom-SES-AUDIO-AB-Stereo-Audio-Switch/dp/B008BMLXAU
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008BMLXAU/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1453255299&amp;sr=1&amp;keywords=SESCOM&amp;linkCode=sl1&amp;tag=zeos-20&amp;linkId=03d4841ca94905b22099d1b681629708
The SYS has a knob for passive volume control; that's what needs to be at max, which means the SYS isn't lowering the volume. Electrically, this means the signal from the DAC is kept at line level.
As for a dedicated device, a quick googling got me this.
Would this work?
https://www.amazon.com/Sescom-SES-AUDIO-AB-Stereo-Audio-Switch/dp/B008BMLXAU/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1489606534&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=sescom+rca&amp;linkCode=sl1&amp;tag=zeos-20&amp;linkId=9e22f9a289607ca43caab6468536586e
I got it all set up and working but the interference remains. This led me to find the actual source which I left out because I didn't think it would be an issue. The preamp goes into one of these because I have two sets of speakers I like to listen to the turntable from depending on what I'm doing in the room. If either disconnect the second pair of powered speakers or I run it directly from the preamp instead of that switch all the interference is gone. Now I just need to figure out what to replace it with. I've been trying to avoid placing a giant stereo receiver near the TT because of lack of space.
Actually I do not think it will not with the wire you need to connect the Adapter box to the TP60. If you look at a picture of the back of the adapter box you will see four points of connection, two right and two left, those correspond the the two right outputs and two left outputs on the amp. So you will need to buy two of these cables
http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-16AWG-Speaker-Plated-Banana/dp/B00I52I2PU/ref=pd_sim_23_3?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41OPX07mV3L&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=1D75WSVBRK461ATGM526
So would this one work for the sub? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8P0G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8lpgAb4K6M7B1
And then something like this for each speaker? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I52I2PU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ippgAbVW1K907
Is there a cheaper option/alternative for the already pre-made speaker wires? And any HDMI works on the TV to receiver connection right?
Good to know, thanks. Would speaker wire like this work?
http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-Speaker-Plated-Banana/dp/B00I52I2PU/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1411974883&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=speaker+cable+with+banana+plugs
Do they have any speaker wire with banana clips already installed on one side? I connect the other, stripped side to the amp correct? Then I'm also planning on purchasing a RCA to 3.5mm jack cable and connecting it straight into my external DAC since I'll be using that for my headphones anyways.
How about this amp with 2 sets of these cables
Would I need anything else?
Something like this is probably what you're interested in. I was going to just buy cable and do it myself but honestly my speakers are only going to be a couple feet from my tt so I'll gladly pay $20 for fitted cables.
Can anyone recommend an amp for a 2.1 set up? (Between 75-150 dollars). I originally purchased http://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00 but realized I couldn't add a sub later down the line.
Also, will I also need 1 3.5 to RCA cable? I purchased 2 of http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Series-Speaker-Plated-Banana/dp/B00I52I2PU?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00 but assume I will still need the RCA as well.
Need to get some new wire for these dudes, any specific gauge you recommend? I was planning on something like this https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-16AWG-Speaker-Plated-Banana/dp/B00I52I2PU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478023780&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=speaker+wire+with+banana+plugs
Thanks for the reply!
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Got these as well: 2male-2male RCA cable and two Mediabridge Speaker Cable vs wire.
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Should this do the trick?
Current items I am planning on buying for my first speaker set up.
Speakers, Amp, and 2x Cables. So two questions does the current set up I am planning on buying all work together? Second, for connecting my computer/phone to my Amp should I use the optical port on my computer or just stick with the 3.5mm jack?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R124LAK/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_5y3Jyb89TAE5E
You could use just an audio cable. Won't be wireless technically, but it works by plugging it into your controller.
[This] (https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Premium-Auxiliary-Headphones-iPhones/dp/B00R124LAK) Anker cord.
>If you look at the bottom of the mini mic and see port holes, you have the 2+.
So I need to get a cable like this and just slip into the green speaker input on the back of the motherboard input / output and then the other end into the mini mic?
In terms of sound quality would this be just as good as the phone clip bluetooth?
Also as far as the phone clip and bluetooth, could the phone clip also work with any bluetooth speaker?
Anker 3.5mm Premium Auxiliary Audio Cable (4ft / 1.2m) AUX Cable for Headphones, iPods, iPhones, iPads, Home / Car Stereos and More (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R124LAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EiKxCb2WQJEG3
I have this cable. I would also recommend buying a couple of cheaper cables.
Thanks. I remember the aux and phones output on my amp. So will something like this do ?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R124LAK/
And
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CV0JSKE/
Most PCs have a 3.5mm microphone input like this, and it looks like the Nintendo Switch has a 3.5mm audio jack, so you should be able to connect the two with any 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable, like this.
You'll have to go into the audio mixer/sound settings on your computer (I think this is done by right clicking the volume icon in the bottom right of the task bar) and configure the audio input (coming from the Nintendo Switch) so it will be played back live.
I suggest using the volume buttons on the Switch to turn it's volume down very low at first, then slowly increasing it until it's loud enough. It shouldn't have to be turned up very much, because the audio input is meant for a low power microphone.
Then, you should be able to plug your headset's usb connector into your computer and have audio from both the computer and Nintendo Switch played through your headset.
I have these headphones. I lost the original cable and I can't find any 3.5mm cables that are slim enough to fit. This doesn't fit for example.
Which cable can I use?
If you want to use in game voice chat with your stream hearing all of the audio, you will need a few things:
Splitter - This splitter is the only one I found that correctly splits the Mic line from the Headset line. This will plug directly into the Switch, then you'll plug your headset into the jack with the mic, and the other jack will be a 3.5mm line going into the Elgato.
Ground Loop Isolator - The splitter is going to create an audio loop buzzing noise, you'll need this to isolate that and keep the audio clean. This will go between the splitter and the Elgato.
3.5mm Cable - If you don't already have one, you'll need one of these to link the Switch to the Elgato.
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That is the only way I was able to use in game voice chat while streaming. Currently I just use Discord to chat through the PC, and send the Switch audio to the PC as well so it all goes to the stream. However, if you want to use in game voice chat you'll need to do the above.
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Into the rear of the Zoom. The cable is this one..
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R124LAK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
and it does work....with the slight glitches mentioned
I did some pretty extensive research when trying to find a way to transmit audio from 2 separate sources into a single bluetooth headset without interruption... Plenty of headsets connect to multiple sources simultaneously, but none will play audio from 2 sources at once. I ended up having to kludge together three things to make this happen:
BT Receiver/Transmitter
3.5mm Splitter
2x 3.5 mm cables
I'm not sure if this would help you... Maybe each of you carry a similar bluetooth receiver/transmitter connected to some standard 3.5mm headphones. Or, a combination of a couple of the receiver transmitters... But that's a lot to carry on a run...
Bottom line, I was kinda shocked to see the lack of multi-device implementations with bluetooth in 2018. I feel like there should be more of a variety for this type of thing..
Now, after reading your post, I did a quick search for a 'bluetooth splitter' and came across this. Looks like it only works with iphone...
BT Splitter
Hope any of this conglomerate of info helps you.
Just had a look there. Indeed the tv has an optical out but the motherboard I/O on the PC does not. Will I need to get something like this for the PC?
Yeah I have enough mixer inputs but I need to get an adapter to convert my PS4 and WiiU audio into 3.5mm. Could I use something like this? Or do I need a full on converter like this?
Edit: Nvm I do need to box.
I thought this was a digital to 3.5 but I was mistaken I think. Although maybe I could use an adapter like this? And yes I don't know the difference and am pretty ignorant about this kind of stuff.
Then in that case I would just use optical audio cable between the mi box and the receiver make sure the optical audio cable has the little adapter mini toslink with it for the mi box.
I found this cable ...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T8HWUVS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_yM-hybBYH846N
I've used this for my Playbar; seems to work fine:
FosPower (3 Feet) 24K Gold Plated Toslink to Mini Toslink Digital Optical S/PDIF Audio Cable with Metal Connectors & Strain-Relief PVC Jacket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T8HWUVS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_VyGJzbER6RQJE
You got me in the right direction though.
digital optical to 3.5mm
You could try an audio out to optical connector, something like this
The Chromecast audio has a good number of compatible apps. But the Bluetooth could potentially be easier in certain situations.
I can still control the volume on my phone when connecting to mine. I used a mini toslink to Optical cable :
FosPower (3 Feet) 24K Gold Plated Toslink to Mini Toslink Digital Optical S/PDIF Audio Cable with Metal Connectors & Strain-Relief PVC Jacket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T8HWUVS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.l16Ab2CG1BC0
If for some reason you can't, you could always connect it to your AD18 via the 3.5mm cable it comes with. It would essentially use the DAC on the CCA which isn't that bad.
Hey guys, I want to get a volume control knob for my speakers, something like this one. The thing is, I want to control the actual volume of the speakers, not the volume from windows. Is there any potentiometer thingy that could stick in the back of my speakers? Or any diy method of doing this? I'm prepared to use a soldering iron if that's necessary.
EDIT: I found this controll knob which looks like it might do the trick, but it's quite ugly and fairly expensive for what it does, are there any better options?
I received a pair of Audio-Technica ATH-M50x headphones as a gift because my old generic headphones broke. I'm no sound enthusiast and I know I need an amp of some sort to get the full quality for headphones but I'm kind of low on money. My main problem is that the headphones have no volume control if I use them on a computer. Would something like this work in the meanwhile?
https://www.amazon.com/Volbox-Adjuster-Control-Headphone-Speaker/dp/B00XDKKQ9E/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
This is just a knob with in and out
A headphone DAC / amp combo would have more features and act like an external soundcard. The Micca OriGen+ or the Schiit Fulla 2 are great options if you want something really nice.
Edit: added links
Maybe something like this?
Volbox: Volume Adjuster Stereo Control Knob 3.5mm 1/8" Headp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XDKKQ9E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_euWpzbEXA60T3
Okay, I found a solution after a bit of research. A RCA Audio Piggyback Cable, 2 RCA Male to 2 RCA Male + RCA Female Piggyback + 3.5mm Stereo Male To Dual RCA Female Audio Adapter + volume control attenuator will solve the problem, for about $20 to $30.
they are a little bigger of what I had in mind, but I have to admit that the Sys is beautiful
I had something like this in mind:
something like:
Ah, okay. I probably wouldn't use the Sys, then. What I would do is just use this if you're cheap: https://www.amazon.com/Volbox-Adjuster-Stereo-Control-3-5mm/dp/B00XDKKQ9E
But otherwise, you could always pick up the Schiit Fulla 2. Use that as your sound card. You can use its volume control knob for your headphones, and also it has a variable output that's controlled by the volume knob that would go to your speaker input. But that's also $99, so it might be overkill. Though, that OL Switcher has 3.5mm input and output, too, though you could potentially be degrading the sound, too. Though if you're using cheap enough headphones, it's not an issue, realistically.
There are Stereo to Mono devices out there - Stereo Left/Right in, and TWO Mono out.
https://www.amazon.com/Stereo-to-Mono-Signal-Converter/dp/B072VWCCBX
There are also what are called Distribution amps, that have several (8,10, 12,...) Amps built into one unit.
This one is 6 Stereo channels or 12 Mono Channels -
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-ma1240a-multi-zone-12-channel-amplifier--300-815
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-ma1260-multi-zone-12-channel-amplifier-60wpc--300-8150
This is really a Power Amp with little to no controls, so you would need some type of pre-amp so you can adjust the volume of various sources.
There are some Mixers and some passive devices that could give you basic Volume Control -
Here is an example of a very basic 4-channel mixer for about $60 -
https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/802
Here are some Passive Volume Controls. These are meant to control Studio Monitors or Computer Speakers, but they should serve your purpose -
https://www.amazon.com/JBL-NPATCH-BLK-Compact-Controller/dp/B01I3B0OH6
https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-BIG-KNOB-PASSIVE-Controller/dp/B01NCUZ32O
https://www.amazon.com/Volbox-Adjuster-Stereo-Control-3-5mm/dp/B00XDKKQ9E
An alternative would be to find an old Stereo Amp that had PRE-AMP Outputs. The Pre-Amp out could feed the Stereo-to-Mono Converter, and the Stereo-to-Mono could feed the Distribution Amp.
Using an old used Stereo Amp with Pre-Amp Outs, would also give you all the input connections and controls you need.
Thanks for the suggestions! I ended up finding and buying this a few hours ago: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XDKKQ9E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Seems like it will do the same job, just with different input/output. Will it matter that this uses Stereo in and out? I am planning to run a Male to Male 3.5mm Stereo from my Center/Sub port on my Motherboard, I will plug that into the device IN. Then I will run the 3.5mm Stereo from the device out to the Subs Mono Port for LFE. This should work fine right? Will I still get the full signal?
Depends on what you want.
This is for a PC right? So you're listening close up. That's a factor because the JBL's are designed for that.
JBL's with a $100 Dayton sub will sound great, be balanced, and provide more bass than any pair of bookshelf sized speakers on their own.
I'm guessing they mean because the JBL's are powered (they have amplifiers inside of them) then if you want to upgrade you just have to sell them and buy a new system. If you get an amplifier and speakers then you can upgrade the speakers or the amplifier separately. I'd add that the JBL's probably have more resale than Elac's or something like that if you consider upgrading a factor.
Don't worry about the XLR inputs if you don't need them - use these
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Splitter-Computer-Multimedia-Speakers/dp/B00ZKM3S4S/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=stereo+breakout+cable&amp;qid=1563309739&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3
They will plug in the little green audio output you can use for headphones.
For the subwoofer - does your PC have an orange 3.5mm audio output? If so hook that up to the subwoofer using these kinds of cables:
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-iXCC-Shielded-Gold-Plated-Stereo/dp/B019D048XC/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=3.5+to+rca&amp;qid=1563309802&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-5
The brands I'm linking don't matter, just the type of cable they are.
Also, here's a version of the cable you need:
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Splitter-Compatible-Computer-Multimedia/dp/B00ZKM3S4S
Cool, thanks for the info. I think actually that this is the cable I need, I posted a question on amazon to see if it would work. I think the one you linked is to send a signal from say an iPod to your mixer. http://www.amazon.com/Y-Cable-Splitter-Computer-Multimedia-Speakers/dp/B00ZKM3S4S?ie=UTF8&amp;ref_=cm_cd_al_qh_dp_t
I think any speaker with an aux input should hook up via this cable:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZKM3S4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Rz2mDb4QX06B5
I always recommend JBL Bluetooth speakers due to how great my experiences have been with them, but almost any Bluetooth speaker available today will have an aux input.
To be more precise about what I've done:
From the audio out on the back of my PC, I plugged in the 1/8th inch inline ground loop isolator like what I linked above. Into the socket end of that I plugged in a 1/8 to 1/4 inch Y cable (or a splitter cable), then the ends of this Y cable plug straight into the JBL monitors. I have used something like this as the Y cable:
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Splitter-Computer-Multimedia-Speakers/dp/B00ZKM3S4S/
Does that make the set up a bit more clear?
+1 LR split cable is the only way.
UGREEN 3.5mm 1/8" TRS to Dual 6.35mm 1/4" TS Mono Stereo Y-Cable Splitter Cord Compatible for iPhone, iPod, Computer Sound Cards, CD Players, Multimedia Speakers and Home Stereo Systems 6FT https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZKM3S4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4eCIDb9H81XN1
Do you have a pair of headphones terminated in 1/4"? If so you could try monitoring the signal before it reaches the computer.
My first recommendation, if you haven't already tried, would be to unplug the USB and plug it back in.
My second recommendation would be to change over to analog. You'll need a cable similar to this one. It would plug into the output on the back of the mixer, and the light blue port on your PC. If your PC doesn't have that port you can use the microphone port.
No reason an RCA to 1/8 converter wouldn't work that I can think of. Now for when it comes to 1/4 to 1/8, I use this and this
Here's what you're looking for on the U.S. Amazon web site. It's available in 3, 6, 10 & 15-foot lengths.
Hopefully, you can use the information on this page to find it on another country's Amazon site.
This appears to be the same product on the UK site.
This appears to be the same product on the French site.
This appears to be the same product on the German site.
OK, I'm done.
I'm trying to figure out how I can pair this with my computer. I wanted to get a dac/amp combo to power this thing but I'm unsure about what connections will work. I was looking into this thing but wasn't sure how it'd connect to the speakers. Could I use something like this?
Here's what I currently have:
2 JBL 308P MkII - Powered 8" Two-Way Studio Monitors
https://www.amazon.com/JBL-Professional-Monitor-Speaker-308PMKII/dp/B077NHM2K6/
1 UGREEN 3.5mm 1/8" TRS to Dual 6.35mm 1/4" TS Mono Stereo Y-Cable Splitter Cord
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZKM3S4S/
1 Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/
1 Google Chromecast Audio (Black)
https://www.google.com/chromecast/audio/explore/
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The red dots symbolize want I do not have yet. I'm working on eventually getting:
1 JBL LSR310S 10" Powered Studio Subwoofer
https://www.amazon.com/JBL-LSR310S-Powered-Studio-Subwoofer/dp/B00I08RT3U/
1 Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 Second Generation (2nd Gen) 2-in, 2-out USB Audio Interface
https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-2i2-Generation-Interface/dp/B01H4W34WW/
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Note: I have all that I need right now, but know that I may eventually buy a subwoofer for my studio monitors, which would make the setup more complicated. I only need help with adding the subwoofer. How will I do it? Will I need more cords and another ground loop isolator? Do I need an audio interface to add a subwoofer? How will I connect my 2 studio monitors and future subwoofer to my Chromecast Audio, my future audio interface, and a ground loop isolator?
If you have an audio interface with 2 spare line inputs and direct monitoring capabilities, you can run a 1/8" to 1/4" T-cable from your TV/monitor's headphone jack to the interface and route the audio signal straight to your headphones. The interface that I use to accomplish this is a Focusrite Scarlett 18i8, but I believe the cheaper 6i6 model would work as well. While I wouldn't necessarily recommend buying an audio interface solely for this purpose, it provides a very convenient way for me to hear my consoles and PC at the same time while also recording from my microphone.
When the mic is unplugged I still get the same hum. My cables. Is there something better I could get?
How do you tell if the speaker is passive or Powered? Mine are passive from what you've told me, but i'm curious how to identify this in the future.
Should i buy two sets of Crutchfields and one RCA Audio Subwoofer Cable - 15 feet?
I am now a member of r/BudgetAudiophile
Very helpful, thanks.
So optimal would be this into the sub and this into the receiver, correct?
I want to connect my Klipsch r15pm's to my subwoofer. What cable would I use? Would this do the trick? Cheers.
Yeah the Insignia cable is very thin. Would this be a better option? Says it is shielded. I'm also wondering if this one would be even better since it has L/R on one end. I'll do an Amazon chat to see what the return policy would be.
Edit: Was told I could return free of charge either or both cables if need be. Guess I'll order both and see how they work.
Link says it’s discontinued. Try the amazon basics cables, or monoprice. Good value, high quality. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Subwoofer-Cable-15-Feet/dp/B01D5H8GYG/ref=sxin_3_pb?crid=3KSMGRNBVJ54H&amp;keywords=rca+cable&amp;pd_rd_i=B01D5H8GYG&amp;pd_rd_r=3da7e7df-1300-4472-a9df-ef86399f6929&amp;pd_rd_w=IXDw8&amp;pd_rd_wg=5aO8g&amp;pf_rd_p=9f3d6e11-70d1-47bb-b5b9-f5fb86d89458&amp;pf_rd_r=R6QG3NKMCPZXXDADGH47&amp;qid=1573520542&amp;s=electronics&amp;sprefix=rca+c%2Caps%2C223
You need this https://www.lowes.com/pd/RCA-Black-3-Wire-Plug/3701834 hooked to the subwoofer spot on your Pre-Out section on your amp.
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Subwoofer-Cable-15-Feet/dp/B01D5H8GYG something like these going from the 2 female ends on the splitter from the subwoofer pre out to each of the subwoofer IN on each speaker.
Then disconnect the jumper so only the speaker wire goes to the SPEAKER red and black on the speakers.
This should be fine, unless you're doing super long (50+ ft) runs, or running the speaker cable in the walls (in which case you need a CL2 rated cable.)
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-14-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B01D5H8XOY/ref=pd_lpo_23_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=V9JPF5EAG00652NPR2J4
both speakers are good and you'll be happy whichever pair you get. that being said, the Diamonds have better bass, so it's up to you if you're willing to sacrifice size for more bass
in addition, you'll need a 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable and some speaker wire. buy the cheapest option, wires are wires and don't matter that much
unless you have a $5000 end-game setup, maybe then it's worth it to get nicer cables
Hey cool, should be pretty easy to set up.
On the back of your receiver is an input probably marked "phono"; you connect your turntable to that using an RCA cable. Those are easy to find in different lengths / prices. Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-40465-Value-Audio/dp/B0019MCI94/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510243440&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=rca+audio+cable
Speakers connect to your stereo using speaker wire. No need to buy the $200 variety! There are various types of connectors on the back of receivers. Very common is a post that is something like a screw, with a black cap on it that turns. Your goal is to wrap the stripped end of the speaker wire around the metal post (metal wire needs to connect metal post), and clamp it down using the black cap. (If this makes sense....)
Speaker wire is something like this: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-14-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B01D5H8XOY/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510243561&amp;sr=1-7&amp;keywords=speaker+wire
You need a cable like this to hook the amp to a PC. You then need regular speaker wire to connect Q100 to the amp. You can buy speaker wire at a normal home supply store. You could probably find it locally. 14 gauge is usually a good size to use for most things.
amazon link for speaker wire
This sub doesn't like to recommend soundbars because they generally offer poor sound relative to their cost.
Instead, consider starting with a basic home theater system that you can easily add on to later.
I'd recommend:
Micca MB42X Bookshelf Speakers - $89.95
Denon AVR-S510BT Factory Refurbished Receiver - $129.99
50ft of 14-Gauge Speaker Wire (to connect the speakers to the receiver) - $10.99
HDMI cables (to connect TV and Blu-ray player/PS3/whatever to receiver) - $9.99
Total: $240.92
Speaker wire for the speakers, digital coaxial or subwoofer cables for the sub.
It looks like binding posts for banana plugs for the speaker connections on the wall plate.
Amazon and monoprice are good places for speaker wire as well.
Banana plugs -5 pairs
Subwoofer Cable -8ft. There are plenty out there for cheap. Just search subwoofer cable.
50ft 14 GA speakerwire. The speaker wire connects to the bananaplugs.
This is a copy and paste from /r/audiophile, was looking at getting your guys' and gals' opinions on my proposed setup for my boyfriend. Thanks!
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Hello guys! I am thinking about these products combined together for a nice addition to my front room. What do you guys think?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J67V2EU/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B007IWKX14&linkCode=as2&tag=wwwpuresimula-20&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT-LP120-USB-Direct-Drive-Professional-USB/dp/B00GA9COMM/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1536993262&sr=1-2&keywords=audio%2Btechnica%2Blp120&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-SUB-1200-12-Inch-Subwoofer/dp/B00669L3HS
https://www.amazon.com/Gemtune-APPJ-PA1501A-amplifier-6AD10/dp/B00X5ECQ4Q/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1497619940&sr=8-8&keywords=gemtune&linkCode=sl1&tag=zeos-20&linkId=406beef5e99b3883668a4e2f6d3fb5de
https://www.amazon.com/Micca-Copper-Speaker-Plated-Banana/dp/B06ZZ5HCTM/ref=as_li_ss_tl?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B06ZZ5HCTM&pd_rd_r=Z918ZFQMNQY2D2M2B4ED&pd_rd_w=QRQfu&pd_rd_wg=dLLqn&psc=1&refRID=Z918ZFQMNQY2D2M2B4ED&linkCode=sl1&tag=zeos-20&linkId=8b6724c04e95dffa0c782d0341bf1d0c
edit: or should I switch the amp out with this one? https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-SA-98E-silver-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B00NBGECXG/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1454215590&sr=8-2&keywords=smsl+amplifier&linkCode=sl1&tag=zeos-20&linkId=6da1aff594cf85eb16f81524d9470929
What do I need to get this setup working with my desktop PC?
(https://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42X-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B00E7H8GG2)
(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015A8Y5M/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=AED492BX4II6G&amp;psc=1)
Do I need anything else to get this to work for my PC? An AUX cable? Amp? Additional cables? Receiver?
Thanks.
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-14-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B01D5H8XOY/ref=pd_day0_hl_23_3/137-2294305-1031853?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01D5H8XOY&pd_rd_r=91666369-31a2-11e9-aa96-e74d7a705039&pd_rd_w=gdC10&pd_rd_wg=9euOZ&pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&pf_rd_r=35H4KAKSDMGCQ6WZXP3H&psc=1&refRID=35H4KAKSDMGCQ6WZXP3H
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you wanna have the wire thicker so that it transmits clearly further. There's a graphic on r/zeos but I don't remember the details. Yes that receiver is great. I just suggested Craigslist cause you can get epic deals. I got mine for $30 and is a yamaha. No HDMI though, older model.
You need speaker wire and an amplifier that outputs to speakers. Like [this](SMSL SA50 50Wx2 TDA7492 Class D Amplifier + Power Adapter (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F0H8TOC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.vhIzbGPCW0Q4) and [this](AmazonBasics 14-Gauge Speaker Wire - 50 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8XOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_VzhIzbT3TGHMM). I suggest looking over the recommendations at r/budgetaudiophile.
I would suggest newer speaker wire too... pick up a decent 20-50 foot / 10-20 meter roll of 14 or 16 gauge OFC wire, and get rid of that other stuff.
Perhaps some electrical tape or wire nuts too, if you have to splice into your exisiting "through the box" wiring.
Correct, you gotta get wire separately because based on where it's run (inside a wall or an outside install) the jacket covering the wire will be flame retardant or be robust enough to put up with the elements.
If you're just running the wires inside and hiding them along baseboards or inside a wire channel this spool will work just fine for you. The bare wire can be fed into the receiver speaker terminals with no real need for banana plugs or other items.
It depends on the length of the run you are planning. For anything less than 5ft of distance you need 14gage speaker wire. It's usually pretty cheap and you can get it anywhere. Just run it through the nuts on the speakers and connect to the terminals on the amp. There are plenty of videos on youtube. I'd recommend https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01D5H8XOY/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1517874911&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=speaker+wire+14+gauge&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51RVOfFV3rL&amp;ref=plSrch for it's simplicity.
Thanks again for all the advice. I had a question about wiring. I'll be using the highly rated speaker wires below. I bought two sets (4 total pairs). I plan on using 1 pair to connect the L and R. The second pair was intended for center. However, I'm not sure I can split the pair so that I can use the 2 center speakers in series as you described? It sounds like it would need three separate wires. Does it matter whether I use the black or red wire for the 'red to black' in between speakers?
https://www.amazon.com/Micca-Copper-Speaker-Plated-Banana/dp/B06ZZ5HCTM/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
In a smaller viewing area, like I think you're describing, small speakers like the passive MB42X ($79.99) will be adequate and 100% better than TV speakers. Add in a small amp (no DAC, just let the TV do that for now) for $79.99 and you're set at about $160.00. Use the left over cash for decent speaker wire and some isolation pads.
In the future, shift the whole rig to another TV or a PC or use the little speakers for a rear surround setup.
MB42X
A250
Micca 6' Speaker Wire
Micca Isolation Pads
This is the 3.5mm cord I bought, this will do you no good though if the side port for the x12 is 2.5mm
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LTEUDO/ref=ox_ya_os_product
Depending on how your system is set up, you may like the hardware solution. I have a DAC (Digital Audio Converter, AKA USB Sound Card) that outputs Stereo (Red and White RCA) to my amplifier, when has a headphone jack. I also use speakers that use Stereo (Red and White RCA), so I found this nifty product. (Linky)
The 3.5mm optical cable cable is digital-only. It can't convert a digital signal to an analog one. The combination port also carries an analog signal for a 3.5mm miniplug stereo TRS or miniplug stereo + mic TRRS, but those are capabilities of the port hardware, not the cable.
Edit: I reread the question, and I get that you're looking for the jack hardware. No idea about that, sorry.
https://www.amazon.com/Volbox-inline-audio-control-attenuator/dp/B00XDKKQ9E/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518954318&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=passive+volume+knob
Just need a couple RCA to 3.5 cables.
Voice Recorder-http://www.amazon.com/Olympus-V404130BU000-VN-7200-Digital-Recorder/dp/B005756GYM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1406061606&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=voice+recorder
Audio Splitter-http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Speaker-and-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B000067RC4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1406061626&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=audio+splitter
Auxiliary Cable-http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LTEUDO/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1406061656&amp;sr=1&amp;keywords=auxiliary+cable
Use your own headphones(your phone should still use itself to capture your audio). Record all phone calls. Take Screenshots. If you're on Android- Hold Power+VolumeDown.
or just this
You want something like This. That would get plugged into the "line in" input in your picture
Edit: Just kidding, don't do this.