Best audio & video cables according to redditors

We found 15,899 Reddit comments discussing the best audio & video cables. We ranked the 3,867 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Subcategories:

Video cables
Audio cables

Top Reddit comments about Audio & Video Cables & Interconnects:

u/Reliant · 2760 pointsr/Games

I think EA has now fallen into one of the most common pitfalls of F2P games: They're targeting whales. People for whom spending $1000 on anything means so little to them that they don't care. Management looks at their sales numbers, sees that they do make a lot of money off the expensive stuff, and keep making more expensive stuff.

Problem is, it's a very short term mindset. When the regulars see how impossible it is to keep up, they leave until the only people left are the whales, and when the whales have nobody to brag to or play with, they'll eventually leave too. The fewer people that are playing, the less attention the game gets, the harder it is to replace players who quit.

With this game specifically, that scenario could be very bad for EA because Disney is licensing out the Star Wars brand for both profit and publicity. If it's generating negative attention or being used for for games that are being ignored, EA risks losing it when their contract is up for renewal.

Vote with your wallets. See a F2P game that has abusive pricing practices? Go play something else. It's not really much different than those insanely priced HDMI cables. The people who do buy are never going to be talked out of it.

u/zZGz · 266 pointsr/AskReddit

I'm going to take this in the opposite direction.

ALWAYS buy a cheap HDMI cable. They work just as well as the $200 Monster cables.

Edit: I cringed.

u/LongDevil · 213 pointsr/pcmasterrace

You should have bought a better HDMI cable.

u/3210123 · 196 pointsr/IAmA

Even better, there's a $2700 one, from everyone's favourite, AudioQuest. Better still, it has some add-on ethernet thing if you ever want to...I don't know, host a LAN party with your bluray player or something? *has no clue*

u/privateDB · 123 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Five feet of speaker wire is not as much as it sounds and 8ga is serious overkill for that setup. You can get terminated speaker wire or an entire spool for not much more. You will hear no difference with 16ga wire and you get so much more.

u/sleeplessone · 97 pointsr/pcmasterrace

That won't power your 4K OLED screen. You needed to buy one of these most likely.

u/Gigabeto · 78 pointsr/buildapc
u/WadeMoreau · 68 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

People already linked the other two $150 stereo receivers from Best Buy but there's also this one that you should be able to price match to Amazon for $130 (or just buy it from Amazon).

If you don't want a gigantic amplifier I also recommend the Topping MX3 for $94 at Amazon.

You're also going to need some speaker wire which is probably overpriced at Best Buy and some type of cable to get sound from your computer to an AV receiver if you don't want to use bluetooth.

u/Iphotoshopincats · 65 pointsr/gifs
u/abigfatjewfish · 57 pointsr/mildlyinteresting

You mean this isn't a good buy??

u/Skurjandan · 51 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/Hott_Soupp · 44 pointsr/starterpacks

ha. You buy gold plated?!
The real quality comes from [diamond](http://www.AudioQuest.com/ Diamond 16m (52.49 feet) Braided HDMI Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IL3TZSQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_eVLZzbM83Z16H)

u/RogueIslesRefugee · 42 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Pssh...that's still small time. Those guys need to get on AudioQuest's level: https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-6-56-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M

u/piis314 · 40 pointsr/pcmasterrace

100 euro power cable? seems legit

at least its not a 1000 dollar HDMI cable

u/throwbackfinder · 38 pointsr/britishproblems

Ok, maybe not amazons basics but you can acquire a cable which...somehow someone will buy.

Behold, beyond your wildest dreams does the ultimate ripoff exist


____

BUT WAIT

Could it possibly get any worse? YES

u/DustForVomit · 38 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Hey n00b...hit me up when you're ready to step up your game. You haven't lived until you step up to a $13,500 AudioQuest Diamond braided HDMI cable, wrapped around some $12,500 Naturelle Plus Maxi Pads with Wings. Be sure to get the ones with wings, as they add flavor. Us "pros" call them "flavor wings".

You're not really a serious vaper until you've stepped up your vape game like the rest of us adults.

u/Cyno01 · 37 pointsr/oddlysatisfying

People really need to spend a little bit more money on sound in their setups. A real 5.1 surround setup can be had for <$300 and even the cheapest option will blow any soundbar out of the water.

Go with a slightly smaller TV even if it means getting a receiver and some speakers, way more immersion for your dollar than anything else. And modern stuff with CEC keeps controlling everything super simple, i dont even need my Harmony remote anymore.

In this case a $50 2.1 set of computer speakers is an improvement over the tvs built in, but not by much, and not helped any having them all on the same little shelf like that either.

EDIT: https://smile.amazon.com/Onkyo-HT-S3800-Channel-Theater-Package/dp/B01F3ENAOU/
https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0W5Y/
https://smile.amazon.com/Mount-MI-1214-Surround-Satellite-Capacity/dp/B003R0AXPW/

$303 with enough wire to go the long way around and speaker stands, so no drilling even. Even if you dont have the biggest TV itll make everybody want to have movie night at your place.

u/pureluck145 · 35 pointsr/pics
u/DuosTesticulosHabet · 33 pointsr/gaming

You mean the Diamond HDMI cable that I paid nearly $1,500 for is almost exactly the same as one I could pick up for $5???

I can't believe people would just go on the internet and deceive others in order to sell their overpriced product! /s

Joking aside, I feel bad for people who don't know this and spend any more than $10 on an HDMI cable.

u/Stevied1991 · 32 pointsr/gaming
u/psxsquall · 32 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I'm glad I had an extra $13,500 laying around for the 16m one. And silly me had the side with the down arrow connected to my monitor. Everything started working once I switched both ends.

u/theknyte · 31 pointsr/techsupportgore

Might has well just punch your TV, rather than insult it with such low quality cables. If you aren't using THESE, than you don't deserve to use a TV!

u/shadowmalice89 · 29 pointsr/techsupportgore

Shit, even $50 cables are too risky for me. That's why I get the AudioQuest Diamond Braided HDMI Cable.

u/tyrghast · 29 pointsr/pics
u/DeFex · 28 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Monster cables are rookies with their $100 cables. I think you mean audioquest, makers of the $1500 HDMI cable.

http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-2m-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M

u/nbenzi · 28 pointsr/IAmA

unless you buy this badboy

u/Playsbadkennen · 25 pointsr/youtubehaiku
u/Ragna_The_Blood_Edge · 24 pointsr/funny

Hahahaha dirty peasant,

My [diamond coated HDMI Cable] (http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Ethernet-Connection-meters/dp/B003CT2A6I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1376520150&sr=8-2&keywords=diamond+hdmi) has greatly enhanced my tv experience! It's amazing how vivid the picture looks. I mean it's so crystal clear that I actually jumped into my tv like mario does in Super mario 64. Next thing you know im in the middle of the Gobi desert being chased by Mongolian death worms. Luckily I managed to catch a breath of air and called out to my Diamond HDMI Cable. The cable in all it's magnificent Diamond Coated glory killed the Death worms with ease and pulled me out of the tv and back into my living room. I'm telling you these cables are worth it, I can't wait for Call of Puppies, I mean call of duty ghost to come out. Then I can finally live my dream of running around with a bunch of dogs, shooting down terrorist.

u/snizarsnarfsnarf · 22 pointsr/buildapcsales

Okay so since this thread is just gaining traction, I'll post my review:

I had a benq xl2411.

Ordered one of these from costco

First one came in looking like someone had either literally kicked a hole into the box or it had eaten the corner of a bench or something during shipping. The monitor faces outward in the packaging, and you could tell on the cloth-type styrofoam pad around the monitor that something had come into contact with it (there was an indentation and slight rip in the styrofoam cloth), it had a mark on it when I turned it on that almost looked like a nail pressing. Guessing it ate the corner of a bench.

Returned it, got another one shipped to me very quickly (only a couple days shipping). New one also has issues that i'll discuss in a sec.

Colors are amazing, especially if you follow this guy's guide


Very bright, very vibrant colors. Coming from the benq xl2411 it felt like day and night difference, what I expect some people describe is the difference between a TN and IPS panel is. Like some games that used to be dull and boring to look at were suddenly vivid and interesting.

Extremely smooth framerate. I went from using Lightboost on the benq (which capped it to 120hz) to using this with 240hz and its a huge difference imo, as big as 60 to 120 was, for me, at least. I also have a rig that can handle 240 on ultra on most games now.

The cables it comes with are kind of short, and it only comes with an HDMI cable. For the full bandwidth of 1080p 240hz gaming, you need a displayport 1.2 cable that has been tested and received VESA certification. I got this one

The stand it actually nice, at least for my desk setup. And the color of it goes well with my white Yamaha HS8's.

The legs are almost as wide as the monitor though, this might not work for those of you who have cramped desk space.

Anyway, so this panel started doing this weird flickering thing for me, similar to the picture that this person took but mine is a vertical strip, 3-4 inches wide slightly to the right of the screen (so not as wide as the picture in that forum post). It would do this once every day or two very quickly for only a few frames. Then it started happening multiple times a day, sometimes lasting for a second or two, sometimes involving horizontal flickering of a similar type. It also seems to sometimes have weird flickering/color issues around certain objects that pop up quickly in a game.

The other day, the entire vertical segment that is a few inches wide became gray. It wasn't like the monitor was turned off in that area, it was just a completely gray band (but backlit), and it wouldn't render anything that was happening on my computer there, but it would still render my desktop or any program on either side of it.

Because it did that gray thing, I finally called in and decided to stop ignoring the problem and exchange for another one.

A day after I put in the return, I was playing binding of isaac windowed on the larger half of the screen that was still visible, and then it did the flickering thing again and the gray band went away. It still does the flickering thing every few hours for a split second.

I do not know what causes this, and I am hoping it is a bad panel, and getting the new one will fix the problem.

It is still a good monitor, and if the third one I get doesn't have any issues, I'll be really happy with the purchase.

u/yourdeadwife · 22 pointsr/pcgaming

Quick note, that DVI-D to Display port won't do 144hz. You need https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-Dual-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY or some other active powered adapter. They're usually 100 bucks or so. I was considering getting one because I had the same problem as you but I just bit the bullet and bought a new monitor.

u/Rayansaki · 22 pointsr/Games

There is such a thing as "zero" latency, but only with AudioQuest Diamond HDMI Cable, found here. (Technically, it has negative latency since it uses time warping technology).

It is a bit pricier than your average cable, but it comes with free shipping.

u/polypeptide147 · 20 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I'll make a list of stuff you need. For the best "bang for your buck" in the $200ish price range.

-----------------------------------------

Speaker wire. Amazon Basics makes great stuff. If you want, you can get 100 feet of it for an extra $2 I think. You can get those monoprice banana plugs if you want. They just help if you're going to be switching speakers around a lot.

Simple wire stripper. Should work just fine.

Cable to plug it in. That'll just plug the amp into a computer. And that cable is amazing quality. For real. I don't know what it is about it, but the moment I touched that cable I knew it was special. This isn't a joke either. You'll understand when you get one. Trust me.

50 watt per channel amp. This thing will be more than enough. I just like it because it is open box, so cheap. The same one new on amazon is $65. If you want to order from amazon, you can just get the smsl sa-36a. Same amp, just 20 watts per channel. Which, again, is plenty.

[Here's that cheaper smsl amp] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017W13OR0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_U2NSBbTRHGFS5). I've got a few of them. They're great. This is what I'd go for if the other one is sold out.

Cheap but good little amp. I don't have one of these because I'm not a fan of the looks, but they get great reviews and a lot of people really like them.

---------------

Speakers:

Miccas. These things are nice for that price. In this price range, you really won't be getting anything better unless you go DIY.

Fluance SX6. These guys are big, but they throw a good amount of sound and some pretty deep bass for a pair of bookshelf speakers. Careful, they're pretty big.

Pioneer. These things are decent, but I think the Fluances would be better for this price. The SX6s throw more bass, which is good if you're not getting a sub. However, these are smaller.

Fluance signature series. I know, you said your budget is only $200, but you said if you need to spend more, then you will. These will sound better than all of the other speakers linked, however, that's not why they're here. I put them here for two reasons. The first is that they're front ported. Most people that are new to speakers might put them up against a wall or close to it, not understanding that the port needs some room to breathe. These have front ports so that's not a problem. The second reason, just look at them. If you really care about looks, these ones are the ones. They're beautiful. (My opinion obviously).

Oof almost forgot. Pleaae don't place the speakers directly on your desk.

--------------------------------

That's a lot. I'll sum it up with my opinion and why.

Amp: smsl sa36a. For close range, you don't need anything with more power. This thing will do whatever you need for bookshelf speakers.

Speakers: micca mb42x. Why? Here's why: for this price range, you won't notice a huge difference in any speakers, unless you get some bad ones. So, get the cheapest ones you can. Later on, if you can afford to upgrade them, you'll probably want to do that. Then you'll have a pair of $80 speakers that you don't need rather than a pair of 130 speakers that you don't need. Another reason I would pick the miccas is because they punch above their price range. Most people say they sound more like a pair of $125 speakers rather than a pair of $80 speakers. So, for real, they're good. Also, they're the smallest of the bunch.

Or, build a pair of C Notes and get something way better than any of these.

Hope this helps!

u/msw141 · 20 pointsr/AndroidTV

at a minimum you are definitely going to want something like this

AudioQuest Diamond 1m (3.2 feet) Braided HDMI Cable

u/ConfusedTapeworm · 20 pointsr/electronics
u/[deleted] · 19 pointsr/codbo

There are ways to do it. I don't know if your using an xbox or a ps3, but either way if you are using the red/white/yellow analog connectors, just slap one of these onto the console's output and then plug in your headphones. that should work for anything using the three red/white/yellow hookups.

However, if your Xbox360 is plugged in via HDMI, you will instead need one of these which plugs in to the component port on the back, and one of these to make it work with the headphones. Note that the xbox adapter comes with an optical port which you will use should you upgrade to high-quality headphones ;)
With this setup you will get audio out to headphones. To get chat in the headphones, go to the preferences, select chat, and output to speakers.

Note that this system doesn't allow for a microphone. You can go ahead and leave the microsoft headset around your neck, or you could get the ever-popular zalman clip-on and this adapter to plug it in to your controller.
They really make this harder than it ought to be :/

Also consider audio extension cables of varying lengths because you'll notice that the adapter cables are not very long.


The easiest way to hook up your favorite headphones is to use an Astro Mixamp. It will include all the needed cables and included a swanky volume knob and a balance knob to adjust game sound and voice levels. Much more expensive, though! At the price for the mixamp, you may as well just buy the whole system which includes a headset as well.

I would link stuff for PS3 using an hdmi cable as well to make an all-inclusive guide, but I simply don't own a PS3 so I can't be certain.

u/fb39ca4 · 19 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/theimponderablebeast · 19 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

KEF Q100 ($250)

Micca AD250 DAC/Amp ($100)

Micca speaker wire ($20)

Dayton SUB-1000 ($120)

3.5mm to RCA cable (for sub) ($8)

Total: $498

This would be a solid, solid setup for really fantastic value.

u/Y0tsuya · 17 pointsr/DataHoarder

The 0's are OK, but after many copies, some of the 1's may start losing fidelity, so they become 0.9, then 0.8 and so on. Past a certain point the playback software will not be able to discern that from a 0, and will have to interpolate from neighboring pixels. The interpolation process will lower the resolution so the original 1080p will start looking like 720p.

You can keep the bits fresh by using ethernet cable from reputable manufactures such as Denon.

https://www.amazon.com/Denon-AKDL1-Dedicated-/dp/B000I1X6PM

Unfortunately they stopped making it so our videos are doomed to lose their 1's eventually.

But you can compensate for that by playing back the videos over a high-quality HDMI cable.

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

u/Bob_Fillington · 17 pointsr/gifs

this one cost 13,000

u/LonelyMachines · 17 pointsr/mallninjashit

My god, $7,000? I could buy five HDMI cables for that!

When you're feeling the inevitable buyer's remorse, just remind the people laughing at you that it was endorsed by Sylvester Stallone. Probably won't help, but worth a try.

u/ryesmile · 17 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Make sure it is one of the very high quality ones.
Like this

u/GARlactic · 17 pointsr/PS3

http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Audio-Ethernet-Connection/dp/B003CT2A6I/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top you mean this one? I hope it raises my children too, for that price!

u/GbMaxSE · 16 pointsr/hometheater
u/holtenberg · 16 pointsr/pcmasterrace

But please, continue with this type of reviews.

u/jdvbelle · 16 pointsr/oculus

> Price "cheaper than a cable"

That's not too dificult

u/ybitz · 15 pointsr/flying

> you get what you pay for.

You might be interested in this hdmi cable then

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CT08E4/

The quality of the 0 and 1s that comes out of it is simply breathtaking.

u/Danielsydeon · 15 pointsr/ShittyTechDeals

Hard. Like the diamonds used in the best HDMI cable ever! Only $13499.75! Shipping only $3.99! Get yours now at https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ

u/Dorkamundo · 15 pointsr/IASIP

Fuggin pleb, you can't handle my HDMI cable.

u/Unspoken_Myth · 14 pointsr/buildapc

Couldn't really find what I was looking for specifically, so I scoured a few subs and saw numerous suggestions. Ended up purchasing the following items:

Dayton Speakers

Lepy Amp

RCA to AUX

Polk Subwoofer

Speaker Wire

Super happy with these purchases. All in all it costed just about 200 bucks. For me, it's all I will ever need. Crisp sounds and heavy bass when I want it. Would consider shelling out for a better amp, but the amp provided should be sufficient if you aren't blasting your music.

Additionally, if you do plan on doing an audio set up of this nature, use this image to guide you. Also note that the DAC in the image would be your RCA to AUX if you were to use the set up I posted. If you have any questions feel free to ask.

u/mr_droopy_butthole · 14 pointsr/IdiotsFightingThings

That's what I say. These non-grilling fuckboys don't know. You can buy a grill like that for $600-700 and you can also buy one that looks like this for $2000.

You can probably even get the exact same one from 2 different retailers.

this is a $14,000 hdmi cable. There's a sucker born every minute

u/masetheace64 · 13 pointsr/buildapcsales

Give me about an hour and I'll edit this comment with store links to what I got.

Edit: Here is the list

  1. Receiver/Amp This is very basic and will only support the bookshelf speakers themselves. If you want to add a sub or center, your going to need a full on stereo receiver. WARNING - when plugging in the banana plugs into this receiver, i had to force them in a bit to make them stay in. I thought I broke it, but my friend who recommended me this receiver said thats how his is too. so if the banana plugs go in weird, its ok :).

  2. Audio to RCA adapter. This is the wire to hook up to your PC. This could vary per setup. My setup goes from speakers to receiver, then receiver to PC with this cable. You could use RCA to optical cable as well. You have to make sure that if your PC is hooked up to your TV or monitor via HDMI to change the Audio input from hdmi to speakers.

  3. Speaker wire This is how you connect the speakers to the receiver. and the best way to do that is with banana plugs

  4. Bananna Plugs - Any kind will do and each banana plug hooks up to the wire differently. Some come with instructions, others you might have to google. I had to look at amazon reviews to see how mine worked.

    Total - about 40 - 50 depending on where you get your stuff.
u/QuipA · 13 pointsr/headphones

You can connect the Magni with a 3.5mm>RCA cable to the line out (green port) of the motherboard. Mobo audio should be at 100% and only the knob on the amp controls the volume. If that gives you clean sound without any distortion or constant electrical noise, you don't need to get a DAC.

u/moshlyfe · 13 pointsr/Metalcore

Get an Audio Technica AT-LP60 + an amplifier + speakers + speaker wire. That's what I have and it cost me less than $180. Here's the Amazon links for everything I have:

Record player

Speakers

Pre-amp

Speaker wire

STAY AWAY FROM CROSLEYS OR ANYTHING WITH BUILT IN SPEAKERS. DO NOT BUY A RECORD PLAYER UNDER $80. IT'S WORTH IT TO SPEND THE EXTRA MONEY AND GET A SETUP THAT WILL SOUND NICE AND WON'T DESTROY YOUR RECORDS. Can't stress that enough.

u/IXI_Fans · 13 pointsr/hometheater

> Audioquest Type 2 quad cable

Attention people out there on the interwebs reading this... don't buy this stuff. This is the same company that sells a $850 3 foot HDMI cable.

u/warheat1990 · 13 pointsr/hardware

Don't cheap out on HDMI cables, get those diamond grade cable from amazon.

u/GrumpySteen · 13 pointsr/AskReddit

This 1000x over.

I could never truly appreciate the pimples on the crack whore's ass in my favorite porn until I bought a set of these

u/steadylit · 12 pointsr/EDM

Everyone here is making this so unnecessarily complicated. I just picked up DJing last year myself and it's not hard to start at all. I did quite a bit of research on what DJ controller would be the best for someone who is just starting, but also wants to have something more than a simple mixer.

  1. Build a music library and download Serato

  2. Import your music library and organize it to your liking.

  3. I bought a Pioneer DDJ SB2 and it's awesome. You can do really basic stuff but at the same time you have the ability to do some higher level mixing as well.

  4. While you wait for your controller to arrive, watch this https://www.youtube.com/playlist?annotation_id=annotation_2381793899&feature=iv&list=PLk1VCXHnvPLDLbKTvHacpo6tQDzp4OS38&src_vid=W1OCHTWqc_w. It's a full on tutorial on how to use your controller along with Serato.

    Good luck and have fun! It's a blast to get into

    I FORGOT you obviously need a laptop and some speakers. Any speakers will do, just make sure it's RCA output. Here is a cheap converter if you currently have a 3.5mm output.
u/SamaMaBich · 12 pointsr/mildlyinteresting

> just because you're paying more for it doesn't mean it's better

Are you saying this cable isn't worth it?

u/throwawayK4T · 11 pointsr/hardwareswap

I wouldn't take amazon's prices as the market prices.

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

u/xilog · 11 pointsr/britishproblems

> like this one

What the actual fuck? I mean, it doesn't even have Solid HIGH-DENSITY POLYETHYLENE INSULATION

u/picmandan · 10 pointsr/diyaudio

If you want to use the center channel you’ll need more than a basic 2-channel amp - you’ll need a home theater receiver. Any old 5.1 system will do. You should be able to get them used for well under $100. Their main downside is their size.

You’ll also need speaker cables - 16 gauge is fine unless you want to run them over 15-20 feet or so, then 14 ga may be an improvement.

Then run an aux cord from the PC sound out to auxiliary input on the receiver. You may need an adapter like this to go from 3.5mm to RCA inputs (or something that does a similar job).

No special audio interface needed if you’re not doing surround sound. Stereo input for the left/right/center channel is fine.

u/GramboLazarus · 10 pointsr/realdubstep

IMHO: A subwoofer isn't optional when it comes to dubstep. You'll be missing all the low-end (which let's be honest, is why we're all here) if you omit a decent sub from you set up. As far as amps (I call these receivers) go, you'd probably be best off visiting your local pawn shop or anywhere you can get pre-owned electronics and picking something up. I got mine for under $100CAD and it has power to spare. For ease of set-up I'd suggest finding something with dedicated subwoofer outputs on the back. As for speakers, these or these will do right by you. Personally I use this subwoofer, and it has the juice to have my entire house shaking. Wires are pretty much standard in my experience as long as you're talking about a simple home listening system. These wires would do fine for your needs. If you want a proper listening experience dont use bluetooth speakers, and dont skimp on a subwoofer.

Hope that helps, my dude!

u/spalding1250 · 10 pointsr/headphones

>* Audioquest :)

Idk, I traded my HD800s for this and audio has never been clearer on my 720p Insignia

u/britjh22 · 10 pointsr/buildapcsales

You can use that gift card to ALMOST purchase a suitable HDMI cable.

u/Daamus · 10 pointsr/audiophile

Sorry, but you're going to have to expand your budget

u/Bananagans · 10 pointsr/pcmasterrace

DO NOT buy this rig....

...unless you make sure you have the right HDMI cables to prevent digital signal degradation for your video output!!!!

u/kfm946 · 10 pointsr/buildapcsales

I own a pair of these, they're phenomenal for the price, especially this sale price. Extremely comfortable, great mic and great drivers. I recommend ditching the USB dongle it comes with and using the 3.5mm jack (you may or may not need a splitter).

u/NoradIV · 9 pointsr/pcmasterrace

You mean 13449.75?

u/impingu1984 · 9 pointsr/pcmasterrace

£90 is nothing

What about $13,500

u/TMobotron · 9 pointsr/synthesizers

Volca beats uses a dual unbalanced mono signal. When you use headphones, the same mono signal is going to the left speaker and the right speaker using the left and right connections of the cable, which causes no problems. When you use an audio interface, you're plugging a cable carrying two identical signals into a jack that's expecting two identical signals but with one of them phase inverted. Your audio interface is probably expecting a mono balanced input, which is not what it's getting. Normally with a balanced input, the signals are sent phase inverted. The receiving hardware then flips the inverted signal and the signals are combined.

With the dual unbalanced signal, since neither signal is being sent phase inverted, when the receiving hardware inverts the signal it becomes phase inverted. When the signals are combined, you're left with just the noise/distortion that a balanced cable is normally trying to eliminate.

Korg really should've made this more clear with the Volca series. FYI - here is the cable I'm using, which works fine (I only use one of the 1/4" plugs).

u/Rrussell2060 · 8 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

To build a system using the minimum recommendations from this sub, let's start with this diagram: http://i.imgur.com/Z8FMJ.png
DAC is optional, so is a subwoofer but I recommend one.

DAC: Behringer UCA202 $29.99 Link: http://amzn.com/B000KW2YEI

Amplifier: SMSL SA-50 $68.99 Link: http://amzn.com/B00F0H8TOC

Subwoofer: Dayton Audio SUB-800 $99.00 Link: http://amzn.com/B0063NU30K

Bookshelf Speakers: Micca MB42X $89.00 Link: http://amzn.com/B00E7H8GG2

Wire: 16-gauge Speaker Wire $8.00 Link: http://amzn.com/B006LW0WDQ

With DAC, this cable: Stereo Male to 2 RCA Male $5 Link: http://amzn.com/B00I0HPK6O

Without DAC, this cable: Monoprice 105597 3-Feet Premium Stereo Male to 2RCA Male $5 Link: http://amzn.com/B0094A1F3S

This is a great starter system, I would have loved to had something like this starting out.
All of these pieces can be upgraded, do your research. Look for sales etc. Good luck and have fun.

u/JohnBooty · 8 pointsr/diyaudio

I've built a bunch! Those instructions are fine. Only thing I'd change is I'd use a round speaker terminal cup in step #14, rather than the square one they show in the picture. Something like this in other words. Just because it's easier to cut a round hole -- you can just use a round circle cutting bit in your drill. You can get them for as low as like $2ea on Amazon or elsewhere.

> Do I need an amplifier?

Something like a cheap Lepai is fine.

A "real" amp like this or this or a used home theater amp for $50 from Craigslist will more or less get the full 100% of performance from the Overnight Sensations at higher volumes. A small Class D amp like this is a good compromise IMHO.

All of those amps ought to sound the same at low volumes. For "desktop listening" where you're sitting a few feet away, the Lepai should get plenty loud.

> Do I need a digital to audio converter?

Probably not. With the possible exception of the Lepai, all the amps I linked to have a dual RCA audio input. The typical "red and white audio inputs" you've surely seen in many places. All you need is a basic headphone-to-RCA adapter like this, assuming your music playing thingy has a headphone jack.

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-105597-3-Feet-Premium-Stereo/dp/B0094A1F3S/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1483958406&sr=8-4&keywords=headphone+to+rca

u/MiaowaraShiro · 8 pointsr/diyaudio

This sounds like a stereo/mono conversion issue. The melody for example might play on just the right channel and the drums are in stereo. If your mic input is mono it's probably not getting both channels. You should be connecting your PC via the RCA input jacks on the back of the amp, not the mic input.

You'll need a cable similar to this:
https://smile.amazon.com/Cable-iXCC-Shielded-Gold-Plated-Stereo/dp/B019D048XC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1520966127&sr=8-3&keywords=3.5+mm+rca

u/thegabeman · 8 pointsr/shittyadvice

Make sure you blast your MIDIs through a high quality HDMI cable like this or this. Otherwise, they will just sound like shit and you also don't want people to think you're poor.

u/BigDaddyRos · 8 pointsr/videos

When I got this cable, it came wrapped in bacon, which I thought was pretty weird, but shrugged it off, slid off my recliner into my Rascal, scooted from the living room to the kitchenette, and started cooking my bacon-wrapping.

As the smell of delicious pork back filled my double-wide, I turned around to look again at the box the cable came in.

Could this be? Yes! It was a "3 wolves barking at the moon shirt" and even better, it fit me perfectly (I wear an XXXXL).

So I yumplugged (get it, yum because of the bacon?) the crappy coax and component cables from my TV, and slapped in the HDMI golden cable between the visio and the blu-ray.

I was completely unprepared for what would turn out to be the best day ever.

I dusted off my....oh who am I kidding...I was already watching my "Mama's Family: season 1" Blu Ray (disc one). The magic began...

Once Vicki Lawrence appeared on screen, she broke character AND the fourth wall. She, and the rest of the cast jumped OUT of my TV, and performed the episode on my living room floor!!!!

Screw 1080P! This is way better. I thought to myself that having a 12" real-life "mama's family" cast was awesome. I wondered what would happen if I had a bigger TV...

Or better yet, used this cable to plug it into that giant TV screen they have at Cowboys Stadium!

Anyway, I was in for a further treat when I was watching a Betty White episode. Oh MAN!!! Could life get better?

I spoke too soon...

After enjoying some drinks with the mini-cast of "Mama's family" (my own mama left me all her Hooch in the will), we threw on the TV. I turned it on to family guy, and the same thing happened.

I was able to punch that Jesus-hating Peter Griffin and that smart-assed dog in their sacrilegious faces. Mini-Betty White even did a pile driver to Stewie.

MacGyver came on, and we all were in 7th heaven (and when 7th Heaven came on, it was EVEN Better).

I could go on and on about my day, but i'm gonna stop here. BUY THIS CABLE.

It could easily be the best $2594.75 you ever spend...

http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Audio-Ethernet-Connection/product-reviews/B003CT2A6I/ref=dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1

u/Arve · 8 pointsr/audiophile

They're powered speakers, meaning you don't need an amplifier or receiver.

You can plug them straight into a computer using this cable.

u/onsit · 8 pointsr/subaru

I originally did this install back in the day when these were first popping up and down, major credit goes to /u/zedix as I'm pretty sure he was the first one on Nasioc to start this whole trend for Subarus.

My first installation used a head unit that was tucked away behind everything. However the weak pre-amp, and the constant loss of settings (disconnecting battery), and lack on Steering Wheel controls really got annoying. So I set out on this Version 2 project.

*96svx.dc - David was an amazing resource with getting the required harnesses for an 08+, as my car came with a 24pin + 12pin adapter (premium nav) it was very hard to find 2 reverse harnesses that would make this install doable.**

  • 2012 Nexus 7 - 1st gen
  • Timur's USB ROM - in FI mode
  • Typical Apps...

  • Joycon CPJexr(CarPc Joycon Exr), converts steering wheel input into Keyboard strokes recognizable by the tablet. LINK
  • Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 - 300watt amp with Molex input/output LINK
  • USB Dual 80mm Fans with protective grill - LINK
  • 3.5mm inline to RCA (dual channel) - LINK
  • FiiO E10 USB DAC LINK
  • Amazon USB hubs, cheap and easy to hack into - LINK
  • Monoprice USB Extension Cables - LINK
  • SanDisk Cruzer Fit 32GB - Stores Music - LINK
  • Monoprice Micro USB OTG Adapter - LINK
  • USB Y-Power adapter
  • JDM 2-tone AV panel
  • 12v to 5v DC/DC converters (You will need a couple of these, as they are from China they might be DoA)
  • Other various adapters, and 14 ga wire for all of this to work..

    I created a double din sized Acrylic box from 1/4" sheets cut to size by a local shop... Here are the outer dimensions if you are interested in making a similar box to hold all of this.

  • [OD] - 4" x 7" x 5.75"
  • [x 1] - 4" x 7"
  • [x 2] - 6.5" x 5.5"
  • [x 2] - 4" x 5.5"

    Hardest part out of the whole install was coming up with the wiring scheme, as all of this is fed off of 12v ignition. The tablet needed to be able to charge, and the USB hub needed to receive power separate from the OTG y-splitter. I simply spliced into the cheap-o USB hubs and made my own DIY 5v USB hubs.




u/TechFreeze · 7 pointsr/mac

This is a PowerMac G5 built anywhere from 2003-2006, the most recent compatible Operating System is Mac OS X 10.5.X Leopard. The maximum compatible RAM is 4.0GB - 16GB DDR2 depending on model year and spec.

This is the cord you need if you’re in the US,
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005113L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_p6EMDbNK9XJM8.

This cable can be found connected to pretty much all desktop computers, A lot of monitors, some gaming laptops and a bunch of random other appliances.

If not in the US the name of the connector that goes to the computer is IEC320C13. The one on the Mac is squared off but a standard plug will fit inside.

u/Mathias787 · 7 pointsr/buildapc

I advocate using component bookshelves speakers with a mini amp unless space is at a big premium. They are better engineered, have better bang for your buck, and have a much cleaner sound.

You have the added bonus that the speakers are more flexible for other uses and, if you wanted to go from 2.0 to something else, it's a pretty easy upgrade, ala: you don't have to pitch the old system and get something new. I think you'd find a good 2.0 system to be much more impressive than a lot of the gamer sound systems out there.

Polk Audio T15 Bookshelf Speakers

Dayton Audio DTA-1 Digital Amplifier

Amazon Basics Speaker Cable

Another note: A system like this will sound way fuller without a boominess that you'd get from most gaming 2.1 sound systems. All of my friends that I have recommended go this route have loved it!

u/wtfburritoo · 7 pointsr/pics
u/kitamijun · 7 pointsr/Amd

It may be a bad DisplayPort cable. When it comes to DP, cable quality matters. Even the ones included with such high end monitors are questionable - if all else fails, I'd suggest buying a new one, this one is highly revered.

u/djscsi · 7 pointsr/DJs

1: Use a RCA->1/4" M-M cable

2: Buy some of these super handy adapters and use them with a regular RCA cable

u/marssaxman · 7 pointsr/Beatmatch

I have never heard of "cinch cables", and a web search only turns up what are basically zipties, so I don't know what your friend is on about.

Bring an RCA-to-RCA cable, definitely, since you'll most likely be plugging your controller's RCA output into one of the RCA line inputs on the club's DJ mixer. But I'd also bring either an RCA-to-phono cable, or a pair of RCA-to-phono adapters, because sometimes you'll need to plug into a PA style mixer instead, which will use 1/4" phono jacks for its stereo line inputs.

I also carry an RCA-to-XLR cable - I don't need it very often, but it's nice to know that I'll always be able to plug in, no matter what kind of crazy situation I encounter.

u/Man-Bear_Pig · 7 pointsr/hometheater

Plug in to audio out-
Hosa CPR-202 Dual 1/4 inch TS to Dual RCA Stereo Interconnect Cable, 6.6 feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O17/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_eTqIzbXYC6G3A

u/moustachedelait · 7 pointsr/karaoke
  • I started out with just trying to get it going on my laptop with kjams & a microphone.
  • But that didn't sound good and look good, so I hooked up my laptop to my tv through a receiver
  • But using my mic through the laptop mic hole, caused a delay between the audio of the song and the mic
  • This is why you need a mixer. You need the sound of the laptop and the sound of the mic to arrive at the same time. I got this one. Mic goes in channel one, laptop goes in channel 3 or 4 (get the right cable)
  • That mixer's output goes into my receiver now. My receiver allows to get the audio from a different input than the video. This was essential in my setup. I have a basic yamaha 4 hdmi receiver. I turn it to hdmi1, but get the sound from one of the audio inputs, where the mixer goes into (get the right cable)
  • sweet, now I have music and mic arriving in my receiver, and it's going to the speakers and the tv is displaying my laptop
  • now people are tripping over the mic cable and they want a second mic
  • get yourself some wireless mics. the ones i bought are no longer for sale but they are "dual channel" and "uhf" or something
  • now you need some songs though I have to say, just opening youtube and searching a song title + ' karaoke' works pretty darn well as well
  • and some disco lights!
  • my friends like it and say it's the best home setup they know


    Btw, nice effort on the è but you want the other one: fiancé
    It's easy to remember: é the stripe goes on and so does the sound. è the stripe stops and the sound is short

u/fence-sitter · 7 pointsr/macsetups

I don't really have a recommendation, but make sure you decide on how you'll setup your audio connection. Like if you want to use speakers get a monitor with a audio out port, or you could plug them directly into the ps4 controller but I got annoyed being tethered so I ended up buying like three adapters

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Digital-Optical-Audio-Toslink/dp/B001TH7GSW/

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Optical-Analog-audio-converter/dp/B004C4WPXA/

https://www.amazon.com/30S1-01260-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-6-Inch/dp/B000I23TTE/

u/RetepNamenots · 7 pointsr/fffffffuuuuuuuuuuuu

It may not have a 3.5mm audio out, but does it have a component audio out (red and white plugs)? If so you can get one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Male-3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable/dp/B000I23TTE/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1332977123&sr=8-7

u/effin_dead_again · 7 pointsr/vintageaudio

I love the look of the old rack systems. They may not have top of the line components but they still sound pretty good.

It looks like your setup was well taken care of! If I were you I would do the following:

  • Before you play any records examine the stylus on the turntable tonearm and replace it if it looks worn or corroded. It looks like this is the stylus you need but you'll need to compare what's actually on your turntable before ordering
  • Before you play any cassettes clean and demagnetize the cassette deck heads. A simple cotton swab and some rubbing alcohol on the head will clean it, and an inexpensive tape head demagnetizer is all you need. Here's a video guide on demagnetizing
  • Get a Chromecast Audio and a 3.5mm to RCA cable so you can enjoy your tunes without the compression problems of Bluetooth.
  • Get rid of the books and binders and other junk and fill up your shelves with records, cassettes, and CDs!
u/MardukX · 7 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

How big is your room? What are you using this system for primarily - music, movies, video games? A mix? Are you looking for a 2.0 system (two front speakers only), a 2.1 (front speakers plus subwoofer), or something bigger (adding in another front channel speaker, subwoofer(s), etc.)? Are you located in the US or elsewhere? See below for some start-up recommendations, from a fellow newbie located in the US..

u/omeganon · 7 pointsr/xboxone

$60? Where they on sale? They're $100 today =)

Personally I only buy these 'cause they're the best: https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

They're a little pricey at $4500 for 15', but you can't compromise on the transmission of your bits, amiright?

/s

u/lanmanager · 7 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I think that is an out of stock price... This obscene thing is real🙁

Edit: Hold the phone! That price is now a bargain.

Audio quest indeed.

u/subject217 · 7 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Not to one up you, but there's this.

u/hoteltech · 7 pointsr/headphones

People in this sub don't think 3.5mm cables make much difference (we consider a lot of 'features' in a cable to be snake oil), but obviously aesthetics and basic functionality are awesome. Put simply, a lot of people are anti-AudioQuest.

Now, the cables you made look sick, and as long as they're not crazy expensive, people would love to buy one. I know some people would like cables with integrated mics as well.

I don't have much experience with parts, but Philmore and Neutrik make some nice components. I'm sure wherever you source your parts currently do a fine job with audio (as long as they have them!).

EDIT: I don't know if I should bother giving you advice since you do an amazing job as is, but having cables that would pair well with existing headphones with removable cables would help. V-Moda, Sennheiser Momentum, ATH-M50x's would be killer products to target. Also, if you have any experience with making headphone pads, that would be a good market too.

u/honer123 · 7 pointsr/xboxone

Actually connect this
StarTech.com Headset adapter for headsets with separate headphone / microphone plugs - 3.5mm 4 position to 2x 3 position 3.5mm M/F https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RtNiybQBKJPYG

Then the mono adapter to the headphone side

Then this,
Maeline 3.5mm Female to 2 Male Gold Plated Headphone Mic Audio Y Splitter Flat Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ewNiybTP946EB

u/AgentScreech · 7 pointsr/infiniti

Here's the best way to handle this. I'm making assumptions that you have a smartphone and the RCA jacks in your car's armrest.

Get the following.

  • a wired to bluetooth transmitter
  • a usb car charge port
  • 3.5mm to rca jack cable (as short as possible)
  • a cd player mount for your phone

    Take the 3.5->RCA cord and plug the RCA ends into the aux jack inside the armrest. Put the USB charger in the 12v socket that's also in the armrest. Take the bluetooth transmitter plug in the power (with the supplied micro USB to normal USB cord) and plug in the 3.5 end of the RCA cord to the jack on the transmitter.

    Once the car is on and the transmitter is powered up, pair your phone to the transmitter per the instructions that came with it. After its paired, put all the wires and the transmitter in the armrest and forget about it. You'll never have to deal with it again unless something goes wrong.

    Now take the CD player car mount, and turn it so it's horizontal. Put your phone in it and adjust the sides to make sure it doesn't slide out. Switch your car audio system to AUX and leave it there. The only downside is you can't control the audio from the steering wheel. The only thing you can do is adjust the volume.

    Now you have an always updated nav system that has guidance and the ability to listen to all your music via the car stereo. I wouldn't try any other BT transmitter. It's the key to the whole deal and I know that one works. The rest of the stuff is universal and pretty generic. You may have some/most of them already. You can really shop around for the USB charger, RCA cable and CD player mount and get the cost down more. The whole setup should be around $75 or less.

    This is by far the most effective, economical way to get what you want. There isn't really a way to update or modernize the stock equipment outside of buying a new car. I'm pretty sure that's by design.
u/astallasalion · 7 pointsr/buildapcsales

You'll want a DAC or audio interface to get the most value out of these.

You can run these with a 3.5mm to 2xTS adapter but you'll be much more susceptible to grounding issues/noise.

The best solution would be to get a device that has balanced TRS/XLR output (both are electrically equivalent, pin-for-pin).

u/sk9592 · 6 pointsr/hometheater

You will want three 3.5mm stereo jack to RCA cables.

Each one of those three 3.5mm outputs on the rear of your motherboard output two channels:

  • Green outputs front left and right (stereo)

  • Black outputs the two surround channels

  • Orange outputs the center and subwoofer channels
u/k3uuu · 6 pointsr/headphones

My guess is a set of 3.5mm male jack to y split RCA male jack cables. The idea is that you're using the onboard DAC of your macbook, and so the signal running into your magni should be analog already (hence coming from the 3.5mm as opposed to USB)

EDIT: Here's an amazon link to what I'm talking about.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0094A1F3S/ref=sxts_sxwds-tsp_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502737902&sr=1&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3155181382&pd_rd_wg=6JGGN&pf_rd_r=SEMDWMKMB2F1525836EN&pf_rd_s=mobile-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=9701&pd_rd_i=B0094A1F3S&pd_rd_w=SvWFK&pf_rd_i=3.5mm+to+rca&pd_rd_r=8KY5TN4QKTAN8WF4WWV0&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65

If I'm wrong someone please correct me before this guy wastes 7 bucks.

u/MyPackage · 6 pointsr/vinyl

Buy a U-Turn Basic, Micca MB42 speakers, Lepai amp, Pyle pre amp and some cheap speaker wire

It's over your budget but this is about as cheap as you can get while still getting new high quality gear.

u/masterx1234 · 6 pointsr/nvidia

As others have pointed out you will need a Display Port, but i suggest you get this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0098HVZBE/ref=twister_B01LY6Y25W?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Not all display ports on amazon support 144hz, this is the cable i got and im running 2 144hz monitors with them.

u/Kodiack · 6 pointsr/buildapc

This list can be used to find certified DisplayPort cables. This Accell DisplayPort cable seems to be commonly recommended, but I'm in NZ so I wound up going with another option here.

u/timrbrady · 6 pointsr/Gamecube

There's no cheap, high quality way to do this. You're either going to pay a bunch for a Gamecube specific adapter or you're going to get a subpar experience through an inexpensive composite to HDMI adapter that's liable to result in latency issues.

Since there's lots of examples in this thread on the higher quality solutions, here's a cheap(er) low quality solution. This is the current "best seller" composite to HDMI video adapter on Amazon, no clue how well it works but it claims to do what you're looking for. Since your monitor doesn't allow for audio, you're going to have to get some speakers in the mix. If you've already got computer speakers with a 3.5mm plug (like headphones have), you'll need to use an RCA to 3.5MM adapter with females on both end to go between the Cubes audio cables and the speakers.

You could also get a low-latency gaming-oriented capture card, I don't know enough about this to even recommend something. For my money, I'd just spend $15 on a tube TV from Goodwill.

u/cocobandicoot · 6 pointsr/PS3

Another person asked a similar question a couple weeks ago. Here's the response I have him, which will likely help you:

Yes, you can use a computer monitor as a display for your PS3 (or nearly any video game console for that matter). There are multiple ways to set this up; I'm going to provide you with what I think is the easiest and what will give you the highest quality based on your setup. Note that there are other ways to do this, but I guarantee these instructions are what you are looking for.

-----

What you need you need to have:

  • A computer monitor that supports DVI. Check to ensure your monitor has this port.
  • An HDMI to DVI cable -OR- an HDMI cable + an HDMI to DVI adapter.
  • A stereo audio (RGB) female to 3.5mm (headphone style) female adapter.
  • A standard issue PS3 composite audio/video cable.

    If you don't have these cables, you can order them online or get them from Best Buy or Radio Shack (but they will be much cheaper online).

    Note: the audio adapter I mentioned above only supports traditional, analog speakers. In other words, make sure your speakers plug in using this type of connector.

    The HDMI to DVI goes from the PS3 into your monitor. The PS3 composite cables also get plugged into your PS3, and attach the audio adapter onto the red and white plugs on the PS3 composite cable (the yellow plug will just hang loose). Now, plug the headphone-style adapter into your speakers.

    On the PS3, just ensure that under Audio Settings, that "Multi Channel Output" is turned on.

    And that should do it. Hope this helps!
u/Caswell64 · 6 pointsr/vinyl

So all speakers need to be 'driven' by an amplifier- meaning fed electric power to do their magic in addition to the sound signal. Powered speakers have the amp built-in so you just need to send the line-level sound (typically over RCA connectors) and the built-in amp will take care of the rest. Passive speakers, by contrast, do not have an amplifier, and expect one to drive them in addition to the sound signal. Almost always they are both carried over speaker wire like this (https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0W5Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503097133&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=speaker+wire&psc=1).

Those Dayton speakers are passive, so you will need an amp like the one you linked. I'm not familiar enough with that amp to give an informed judgment as to whether that amp is powerful enough to drive those speakers.

Also, for background, what the pre-amp (or phono stage) is doing is converting the very weak signal coming from your turntable cartridge to the line-level signal that external amps or powered speakers would expect. It also reverses the RIAA equalization put on records to sound better- it boosts the bass an diminishes the treble compared to what's cut on the record itself (if it was pressed without equalization, the stylus would bounce around in the groove because of the bass, and the treble would be too faint to play back reliably).

u/drdiddlegg · 6 pointsr/hometheater
u/josefnpat · 6 pointsr/volcas

So this came to a surprise to me, just because I haven't had that much experience with this kind of gear.

Here are my notes:

  1. Plugging in headphones (TRS) to the volca works fine.
  2. Plugging in a stereo cable (TRS) to a normal stereo system works fine.
  3. Plugging in a stereo cable (TRS) to a mixing board = huge amounts of white noise.
  4. Plugging in a mono cable (TS) to a mixing board = works perfectly.

    I don't have enough details, but I think you're connecting your volca (stereo) to a line in (mono) and it's getting messed up because the mixing board is expecting mono.

    I figured this out by taking one of my 3.5mm TRS to 6.35 mm TS cable only using the T and it worked fine.

    My final solution was to buy a TS 3.5mm to TS 6.35mm cable for each of my volcas and everything works fantastically now.

    edit: if you're using a volca sample, which is actually stereo, you'll want to split the TRS to 2x TS and put it into two channels on your mixing board.
u/khaki54 · 6 pointsr/nvidia

Well either get an active adapter like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A493CNY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Or spend that $100+ to upgrade your monitor.

u/G65434-2_II · 6 pointsr/headphones

>http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

Guess what was in that cable's "customers Who Viewed This Item Also Viewed" section -> A Really Expensive Rock

:D :D Gotta love the customer Q & A section on that rock.

u/Feelsgood767 · 6 pointsr/shittyaskscience

You will need one of these cables

A little pricey but you will have the best AD4K experience.

u/0110010001100010 · 6 pointsr/networking

What, you don't want to pay $13k for an HDMI cable?!

u/Kayjin23 · 6 pointsr/AskReddit

Here is what I found on Amazon. The reviews are hilarious too.

u/Marksman79 · 6 pointsr/pics

You'll need one of these to protect against viruses.

u/r1zz · 6 pointsr/videos

How about the $14,000 hdmi cord. Don't forget to read the reviews. My favorite: a reviewer gave it 1 star because "it doesn't work with my VCR."

u/balward · 6 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Just pick up something like this and plug it in to your phone and the receiver and you're good to go.

u/EmilyPseu · 5 pointsr/typewriters

Was just coming to say this.

C2G/Cables to Go 03134 10ft 18 AWG Universal Power Cord (NEMA 5-15P to IEC320C13) Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005113L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_i89MDb10R0W94

u/Ham_I_right · 5 pointsr/regina

The mall with the value village has a lil used computer shop and there is one near the Mitsubishi dealership.

Alternatively. They sell a dvi to VGA adaptor dongle that was popular when dvi cards first rolled out and everyone still have VGA monitors. (Hell anyone with an old cards likely have them collecting dust) looks like this https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000067SOH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mb44Ab48H3T80

I have been using one with no issue on newer cards, OTV would absolutely have one to buy. Not sure if that fits your specific requirements but its my guess what you are up to.

u/LBriar · 5 pointsr/audioengineering

An 1/8" (laptop/iPad) to RCA (KRK unbalanced in) cable. Don't try to go stuffing an unbalanced out into the 1/4"/XLR ins.

Optionally, a pair of HS8s.

u/mr_oysterhead92 · 5 pointsr/livesound

One of these cables in the Red & White jacks on Channel 7-8 will work https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8KO2?th=1

u/pswii360i · 5 pointsr/buildapcsales

You're going to need an amplifier to use them on your pc. I personally use a powered subwoofer that connects my speakers to my pc. You can find cheap amps on Amazon for like 20 bucks.

This one for example seems like it would work. Just plug your pc audio out into the audio input on the amp and connect the speakers via speaker wire to the terminals. I've used very similar devices with my bs22's and it worked great. You just may need an rca to 3.5mm adapter to connect your pc to the amp, like this one.

I'm bad at explaining things, if you have any more questions let me know!

u/Wulmar · 5 pointsr/headphones

Check the link below:

AmazonBasics 3.5mm to 2-Male RCA Adapter Cable - 8 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mpfaCb2WZ9XBZ

It’s cheap and works well, if you don’t plan on using external DAC that cable should be all you need :)

Enjoy your Magni :)

u/grendelone · 5 pointsr/hometheater

> our HTR (Sony STR DN1030) does not have a true analog input that he can connect his phone to using a 3.5mm cable.

This is not correct. Your receiver has plenty of RCA analog inputs. A simple 3.5mm to RCA cable will connect the phone to one of the line inputs. You have at least two sets of RCA analog audio in's on the lower left (looking at the back).

$8 on Amazon or available at any Best Buy, Walmart, Target, etc.:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1497064068&sr=1-4&keywords=aux+to+rca

u/showersareevil · 5 pointsr/buildapcsales

What matters most is that the cable is VESA certified. Without this certification, you have no way of knowing if 144hz at 1440p will work. Your cable may not work at higher refresh rates.

Here is one that's certified.

List of all VESA certified cables

u/freespace303 · 5 pointsr/ultrawidemasterrace

When I first got my BenQ XL2730Z (144hz 1440p) monitor it flickered like that, like it kept dropping the signal for some reason. I did some research and people recommended getting a better quality DP cable, which I did and it fixed it, and it's been smooth sailing ever since. It's sad that the cable the monitor came with wasn't able to handle the highest resolution + highest refresh rate, but oh well. I'm just glad it works now.

http://www.displayport.org/cables/how-to-choose-a-displayport-cable-and-not-get-a-bad-one/

The DP cable I have now...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098HVZBE

u/hix3r · 5 pointsr/Destiny

EDIT: Corrected diagram based on suggestions below.

Made your solution plan into a diagram for clear graphical representation. The cables needed that Destiny probably doesn't have/didn't order yet:

u/PurpleTittyKitty · 5 pointsr/wiiu

Here's a nifty little item that might work for you, if you have a way to use component cables instead of hdmi/dvi conversion You could just plug your headphones directly into the wii u sound output. Hopefully your headphones have a volume control, but if not you could just get one of those, too

u/-ThinkYouCanTakeMe- · 5 pointsr/buildapc

It's a huge pain to set up port conversion on these monitors. You'll need an active DisplayPort to DVI dual link adapter, which cost over a hundred dollars and have been reported to not work consistently with 144 HZ. Other stuff, like passive DP>DVI or HDMI>DVI cables don't work with high refresh rates. The one DVI-D port on your card would work fine, but don't expect to get 144 HZ on the other monitor.

Here's one, read the reviews if you want more info.

u/Dog1259 · 5 pointsr/pcmasterrace

well if its a 144hz monitor, it means the only way to get 144hz is through dvi dual link, since you only have dp and hdmi youd have to shell out about 100 bones for an active dp to dual link dvi adapter

u/kaeaene · 5 pointsr/vinyl

You'll need an amplifier, since those speakers are not powered.

This is a cheap amplifier, if all you want is for your setup to work.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B007VMA6OU

And one of these 3.5mm to RCA cables to connect your turntable to the amp.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000Q6LSWM

And some speaker wire to connect the amp to your speakers.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B006LW0W5Y

edit: listen to rpbtz's response. The sidebar has everything you need to know at this stage.

u/forhelvede · 5 pointsr/techsupport

Does the the tv have phono/RCA on the back? If yes you should be able to use something like this to get sound to the docking station and still get sound from the TV speakers.

u/metafizikal · 5 pointsr/audiophile

You need a 3.5mm to TS cable like this. If you were to use optical, you would need a DAC (because the speakers take an analog input and optical is digital.

u/JdoesDDR · 5 pointsr/xboxone

Well since you know so much about HDMI, you would know that this is the best one you can buy:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CT08E4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fKtLBb1M0YP8M

u/tehosiris · 5 pointsr/nvidia

definitely get a better cable
the pricier, the more colors, i recommend
https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

on a more serious note, you need hdmi 1.3 or above for 144hz 1080p, for 60hz 1080p, any will do
make sure to not waste your money on cables, its a digital signal, it works or it doesnt work, thats all the difference between one cable an another

u/smithysmitherson · 5 pointsr/geek

My guess is you bought one of those cheap unshielded ones. You should really invest in one more like this.

u/applevinegar · 5 pointsr/audiophile

A pair of LSR305s and this cable.

u/megaband · 5 pointsr/buildapcsales

Dude don't cheap out on your HDMI cables, get this one

/s

u/beige4ever · 5 pointsr/audiophile

obviously you haven't had the same experience as these Amazon Reviewers

u/meltvideo · 5 pointsr/delusionalartists
u/DZCreeper · 5 pointsr/buildapc

More speakers doesn't equal more immersive. When buying sound equipment a lot of the value comes from things not properly listed on specifications, such as total range frequency within a certain amount of total harmonic distortion.

A good set of studio monitors is a better sound solution than most people have ever owned.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GP56OYA - Some slightly above entry level studio monitors.

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6 - Connection cable needed.

https://www.amazon.com/Studio-Solutions-Density-Isolation-Monitors/dp/B01FGCC2FM - Isolation pads to prevent desk vibration and angles them towards your ears properly.

Assuming your motherboard isn't using a really poor audio chipset and you are using a high quality audio source they will sound pretty good. If you want to hit frequencies below 70Hz with significant volume I suggest adding a dedicated subwoofer of 10" minimum, although 12-15" is more ideal.

u/MrVandalous · 5 pointsr/explainlikeimfive

HA Haha Hahaha HAAAAHAHAHAHA... Gold?

Get that pussy-ass pleb shit outta here! We got diamonds now, bitch.

u/obito07 · 5 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/002_CCCP · 5 pointsr/crtgaming

Hey all!

This is probably old news for many of you but for those thinking of setting up GroovyMAME with CRT_EmuDriver, do it; you won't be disappointed. It is a little bit of mucking around but the fruits of your labour are well worth it.

Some helpful links that I've collected along the way:

GroovyMAME -- Get the latest GroovyMAME from here. This forum is also pretty active so if you get stuck, you may find someone else in a similar spot as you. A great resource!

CRT_EmuDriver -- Get the latest CRT_EmuDriver versions here. Also has guides for setting up based on your selected hardware / software setup.

Wavebeam Guide -- Excellent and comprehensive guide from Wavebeam detailing the entire setup (including software and hardware requirements). Given that it is over a year old, use it as a reference to give you an idea of what is involved. The hardware aspects are pretty much the same now, but some of the pieces relating to software you will want to seek more up-to-date info.


Buttersoft Windows + CRT / PVM Guide -- buttersoft's supremely thorough thread on hooking your PC up to your CRT / PVM. Lots of great info here.

GroovyMAME Setup Thread -- Recap's thread on setting up GroovyMAME. The guides and posts on the Eiusdemmodi forum are descriptive and thorough. In particular, you should read this post as it has useful information pertaining to audio latency (search for 'PortAudio') and I foolishly missed it the first time and wasted a lot of unnecessary time with ASIO4ALL.

As for my setup, before I begin, I will point out that it is not ideal for someone planning to avoid Windows and boot directly into a MAME frontend. For that, you should really consider a discrete card that be flashed with Calamity's ATOM-15 -- more info here. I went the way I did because I wanted to be able to keep my computer relatively versatile given that I already have a dedicated cabinet.
With that out of the way...I spent probably more than I needed to getting this up and running. I couldn't find a whole lot of info about people who have set this up on relatively "new" hardware. Most people tend to favour older OS's and discrete cards, whereas I was more interested in Windows 10 and an AMD APU based system after reading this post outlining the hardware behind the recent SkyCurser arcade game. Enough waffling on:

  • Case: IN WIN BM643BK18PNU3
  • CPU / GPU: AMD A8-7600 Kaveri
  • Mobo: ASRock A88M-ITX/ac R2.0
  • RAM: Ballistix Elite 4GB Single DDR3 2133 (probably should get another for dual channel)

    It is all hooked up to my Olympus OEV-203 via a VGA to RGBHV cable, with the H/V sync on a BNC Y adaptor (male to dual female). I am just running the audio through the mono speaker on the PVM at the moment using a 3.5mm to RCA cable with a RCA Y splitter.

    Hope this helps some of you. Good luck!
u/mustfix · 5 pointsr/buildapc

Doubtful, since desktop cases have so much more room compared to laptops or smartphones (where this is used), that it doesn't make economical sense to retool/redesign. Maybe some mITX cases?

You'll have better luck just getting a splitter.

u/Pikamander2 · 4 pointsr/self

What's wrong with a standard power cable?

u/Remo_253 · 4 pointsr/techsupport

Verify that the computer has a power cord running to an electrical outlet. The cord will look like this: Example.

Next, verify that the power supply, where that power cord plugs into the computer, isn't turned off. In this example it's the rocker switch to the left of where the power cord plugs in. This is different from the power switch on the front that starts the PC.

>Power buttons and switches are usually labeled with "I" and "O" symbols. The "I" represents power on and the "O" represents power off.

VERY IMPORTANT / CRITICAL

If there's a switch labeled 120/240, usually red in color, DO NOT CHANGE IT

u/boombap33 · 4 pointsr/audiophile

Monoprice 105597 3-Feet Premium Stereo Male to 2RCA Male 22AWG Cable - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0094A1F3S/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_tONoxbSV404SF

u/wsteineker · 4 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

No worries, buddy. Happy to help. You don't need to worry about a preamp just yet, as your turntable has one built in. Just make sure you have the selector switch on the back of the unit set to "line" rather than "phono" and you're all set. As for connecting the speakers to the receiver, I managed to find a pic of the rear connections on the U310. It looks like they use spring clips to connect, so you're going to have to use bare wire.

First thing you'll need is a spool of speaker wire. I've had good luck with the Amazon Basics stuff, and it's about as cheap as decent wire gets. You'll need to strip a bit of the jacket off of each wire on each end. I do it by hand, but you might want to try a wire stripper if you're not comfortable free-handing things. Once you've exposed the bare wire, simply give each side a quick twist to secure them into separate threads and insert each thread into the back of the speaker, depressing the spring clip to allow the wire to fit into the hole and releasing it to bite down on the wire. As for the back of the amp, the procedure's the same if it has spring clips. If it has binding posts like the SMSL I linked earlier, you'll want to unscrew them a bit, wrap the bare wire around the exposed post, and tighten the post heads back down to create a nice, tight seal.

One word of warning on the off chance you've never done anything like this before. Remember to connect your positive (red) terminals on your speakers to your positive terminals on your amp, and your negative (black) to negative. The speaker wire makes that pretty easy, as one channel is marked with a little white line so you'll always know what's going where. Additionally, make sure your amp's left output is wired to your left speaker and the right to the right. Simple stuff, but it's easy to miss if this is your first time.

u/cpitchford · 4 pointsr/apple

There are 5 types of connector

So long as the thunderbolt adapter you're using is DVI (not VGA), you will need a single-link DVI-D cable (or a dual-link DVI-D cable, the adapter won't support it but it will work)

I'm assuming your monitors are flat panels (since you can get old CRT glass screen monitors with DVI-A sockets.. these are analog and rare!).

DVI-D will work with Mini DisplayPort to DVI Adapter

DVI-A and DVI-I might work with Mini DisplayPort to VGA Adapter and a VGA to DVI-A but this will require you monitor to work in digital (which all modern flat screens do) as well as Analog (not all DVI sockets support this, you can tell if it has 4 pins around the blade slot)

Basically, if you have a VGA adapter with your mac, expect more problems with flat screens that only have DVI

u/SchrodingersJew · 4 pointsr/crtgaming

There's two types of DVI connectors: DVI-D and DVI-I. Only DVI-I is capable of an analog signal, but it looks like your card has that connector (double check me on that). If so you just need a simple DVI-I to VGA adapter like this https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-DVI-Cable-Adapter-DVIVGAMF/dp/B000067SOH

Make sure it's DVI-I instead of DVI-D by looking at pics of the connectors online, they are slightly different. If its DVI-i there's no conversion necessary and no input lag introduced.

u/CPOx · 4 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I use an ultra basic setup to connect my LSR305 to my desktop PC which does not have a dedicated sound card (motherboard audio jack only).

I plug a 3.5 mm to stereo RCA female into the motherboard's audio jack and then use these RCA male to 1/4" TS male cables to connect to the speakers.

u/checkerdamic · 4 pointsr/vinyl

I've set up numerous jenky make-it-work turntable-to-soundcard lines to sample so I'll try to give you a few options...

(1) Any decent turntable without a built in preamp (look at beginner turntable guide) and this could be new or used --> into a preamp (this is necessary for this setup) --> run RCA-to-1/4 lines into the back of the Apollo Twin (line 1 and line 2), this will keep your left and right channels separately. You need to make sure you can record into both at the same time. You could buy adaptors for your RCA line or a specific RCA-to-1/4 cable. Note: I'm giving you links to cheap ones.

  • With this option you could probably buy a decent used turntable for about $100 and a decent preamp for $50-100.

    (2) Buy a turntable with a built in preamp and do the same set up without a dedicated preamp. So, it would go turntable with preamp on running RCA-to-1/4 cable straight into back of your soundcard. Best options for a new one would be the Audiotechnica LP120 which is about $300 or the Stanton T92 for about $250-300. I personally think the stanton is slightly better on its stats but not by much and the stanton doesn't come with a hardcover, which kind of sucks. However, the stock cartridge on the stanton (Stanton V500) is a DJ cartridge that can take more damage and you can stop it, start it, and back cue and not worry about damaging the stylus or your records. The stock cart of the LP120 (AT95E) is a much better listening cart but you cannot back cue anything or start or stop on the fly without damaging the stylus.

    (3) Buy a turntable with a USB connection and plug in straight into your computer or the USB port on your soundcard (Edit: just realized not all of the Apollo Twin versions have USB inputs, so this might not be feasible, unless you plug straight into your computer). You could pick up Audiotechnica LP120USB which is about $300 or the Stanton T92 for about $250-300. USB port on turntables do not give the best sound quality however and you would probably better to go with one of the other options.

    Overall, I think option 1 would be the cheapest route and be a good option if you eventually getting into vinyl as a medium for listening. Also, these three options are specially tailored to your setup and there are other ways to do this. The best quality for vinyl to digital is to have a nice soundcard on a desktop that has dedicated RCA inputs and then you don't have to use adaptors.
u/ButtonPounder · 4 pointsr/Amd

Are you using the displayport cable that came with the monitor?

I've been having flickering issues with my LG 34UC88 (not as severe as yours) with an RX 480 and RX Vega. I've read up that the DP cable can cause issues similar to ours. I ordered a VESA certified cable from Amazon (URL below) that should be delivered tomorrow and hopefully that resolves my issue. Read the reviews and see if the issues others have seen are similar to yours.

Accell B142C-007B UltraAV DisplayPort to DisplayPort 1.2 Cable

u/Armsc · 4 pointsr/audio

Don't use the guitar amp for this project. If you're being cheap get the Lepai and some speaker wire. Add this adapter in too and you're out the door for like $35.

u/Slinger17 · 4 pointsr/nfl

LPT: Never, ever buy those shitty Logitech/Sony/Creative/whatever 2.1 speaker systems on Amazon for your PC

Instead, buy a cheap amp, some speaker wire and head to your local Goodwill to find some bookshelf speakers.

Boom. You now have high quality sound for under $50 that will blow anything you can find at that price point on Amazon out of the water.

Every Goodwill I've been in has had bookshelf speakers for sale, and if you're real lucky you can find some excellent equipment for dirt cheap. I found a pair of these bad boys for freaking $13 last weekend

u/BeardedAlbatross · 4 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Sure you can piece something together, but it won't be recommended to purchase more than your main left and right speakers at your sub $350 budget. You can position yourself to add to it down the line by purchasing an affordable 5.1 home theater receiver. You can check accessories4less for decently priced refurbished units. Plenty of people around these parts have used them and they seem to be pretty good.

Something like this Denon should be $170 after shipping. Add in a few bucks for speaker wire and spend the rest on speakers.

I would say spend the rest on a pair of used/open box Polk S15 speakers. They're the new kids on the block that are fairly attractive, offer good performance for the money, and are at heavy discounts used quite often.

To that setup you can add a BIC F12 if you search your local craigslist, or once you have the money be on the lookout for the Dayton SUB1200 to go on sale for $135 on parts-express. After the sub your next addition would be the Polk S30 center channel that can be found for $130. After that come your surrounds which you don't have to spend as much moeny on. You'd either buy the matching Polk S10 or something cheaper.

Yeah it's a little more effort but it's fun to learn about and it's pretty modular. Plus decent speakers will last you as long as you want. The same can't be said for a proprietary system like that Logitech. Outside of bass bloat, even the base left+right speaker and receiver will sound better than the logitech. Once you add a sub it's no contest.

Edit: Something like the JBL B17 are also a good buy right now at $150. For a 7" woofer in a ported cabinet that goes down to 55hz I would expect them to be easier to drive than their 87db sensitivity though, that's interesting.

u/alsm2090 · 4 pointsr/wiiu

This is more of what you should get.

If you don't like extra wires, you could get this instead.

u/donoftheslum · 4 pointsr/gaming

I use a HDMI to DVI to connect my PS3 to my computer monitor. No lag whatsoever.

If your monitor has speakers, than just use a HDMI cable to transfer both audio and video.

If not you need to get the audio another way.

I use this.

You use the HDMI cable for the video and this for the audio. You plug the standard red and white audio cables into this and either headphones or speakers into the other end.

Works like a charm.

u/mookietaco3000 · 4 pointsr/BillBurr

Surely my friend.

For those wondering what you'll need to get this setup, here's the other items I chose to purchase:

Table: Audio Technia 60 non blue tooth edition

https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT-LP60-Automatic-Belt-Drive-Turntable/dp/B002GYTPAE

Speakers:
Micca MB42 Bookshelf Speakers With 4-Inch Carbon Fiber Woofer and Silk Dome Tweeter (Black, Pair)

https://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42-Bookshelf-Speakers-With-4-Inch-Carbon-Fiber-Woofer-and-Silk-Dome-Tweeter-Black-Pair/dp/B009IUIV4A/ref=cm_cr_dp_mb_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8


Speaker wire:
AmazonBasics 16-Gauge Speaker Wire - 100 Feet
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-100-Feet/dp/B006LW0W5Y/ref=cm_cr_dp_mb_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8


Mini-Amplifier:
Seeduck Lepy lp 2020a Class-D Hi-Fi Audio Mini Amplifier with Power Supply Lepy Amplifier LP2020A
https://www.amazon.com/Seeduck-Lepy-lp-2020a-Class-D-Hi-Fi-Audio-Mini-Amplifier-with-Power-Supply-Lepy-Amplifier-LP2020A/dp/B01HRR5AWQ/ref=cm_cr_dp_mb_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8

It was about $230 all together from amazon.

u/SmittyJonz · 4 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Yes, just like Logitech’s

But use a 3.5mm to rca cable

They may come with a cable?

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Stereo/dp/B01D5H8JW0

u/t3chn0v1k1ng · 4 pointsr/PS3

use the deafult old school playstation out. take those red and white RCA cabes and run them into an Adapter don't worry about the yellow video one, just leave it out.

then plug your computer speakers into that adapter.
in Audio Settings you can chose to make the audio come out of the RCA connection and the video through hdmi.

I did this when I only had a computer monitor, works great. also allows for headphones.

u/Grazsrootz · 4 pointsr/PS4

Here's Exactly what you are looking for. LINK
there are more inexpensive options, but this one is highly rated and comes with the optical cable

And then one of these to convert the Output (RCA) to 3.5mm
LINK


I'm going to be honest with you. By the time you buy this you would probably be better off buying an inexpensive surround souind with an optical input. Sony also makes wireless headphones that are compatible with the PS3 and PS4
I have this one and they work and sound awesome

Elite Version

u/vprviper · 4 pointsr/CCW

I guess I shouldn't have let my mind go in that direction. There is also this HDMI cable on amazon priced to sell at $13,499.75 to consider: https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1472771011&sr=8-2&keywords=diamond+hdmi+cable

u/sometimes_interested · 4 pointsr/photography

> it's a hobby where it's easy to get carried away with spending money if you have it.

I'm pretty sure that is the definition for the word 'hobby'. Just look at audiophile stuff. $850USD for a 3' HDMI cable?? The signal isn't even analogue, only encoded digital, so there's no way for it to degrade without not working at all.

u/DPSnacks · 4 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

TRS cable out of your headphone jack -> split to two TS cables -> inputs of the 4 track cassette recorder

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6/

u/dont_forget_again · 4 pointsr/DIY_tech

Yeah, if you want a fuzzy picture you pleb.

HDMI cables just like Motherboards aren't something you go cheap with unless you're a moron that likes regret.

Get one of these and you wont regret it. Make sure to get the 4 year warranty unless you like feeling like a fucking tool.

Edit: Don't believe me? read this Q+A.

Question: We are talking 'digital' audio, correct? 1's and 0's ... not analogue audio that really benifits from serious quality??!!!!

Answer: This cable is such good quality that it supports the transferrence of 0's, 1's and 2's. Also it transports dark matter at beyond the speed of dark matter. So good in fact that CERN have scrapped the Hadron Collider and replaced it with one of these cables.

u/cwmoo740 · 4 pointsr/BikiniBottomTwitter

If I'm ever rich I'll buy this just because fuck it

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4/

u/deplorable-d00d · 4 pointsr/hometheater

Analog is the cheapest, fastest, and easiest.

Get a 3.5mm to RCA (stereo) Y adapter in the length you need:

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-iXCC-Shielded-Gold-Plated-Stereo/dp/B019D048XC/

Problem is, you may get buzzing from poor grounding, in which case you'll need to "lift" (isolate) the ground loop -

Plug something like this in-line, after the Y adapter, before the stereo AUX RCA inputs -

https://www.amazon.com/InstallGear-Ground-Isolator-Noise-Filter/dp/B077Y5DLBB/

or a newer type (plug this into the computer first, then that Y adapter):

https://www.amazon.com/REIIE-Ground-Isolator-Bluetooth-System/dp/B01JUOWB2Q/


u/sjaskowiak · 4 pointsr/talesfromtechsupport

> AudioQuest

I really like their US$14,000 HDMI cable from amazon. :)

u/Malik617 · 4 pointsr/Libertarian

http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-2m-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1387589925&sr=8-1&keywords=diamond+hdmi

Lmao read the reviews

In all serious though gold and silver are used in pretty much all computers. Gold does not oxidize like copper.

u/Sonicator · 4 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Yes, and far more expensive ones as well

Thats just an example.

u/psycholis · 4 pointsr/audiophile

"A lot better "ones" and more "zeros" in this cable!

I especially like the "ones", they are more "one" than what you normally would see in other cables. Very cheap cables tend to run out of zeros after you have been using them for too loud audio or video with a lot of blue in them. Not this cable, it has an abundance of zeros in reserve. It will keep feeding those zeros to your TV or Receiver like it's no tomorrow!

Very good cable WITH FREE SHIPPING! "

Pretty much any review on this. Though I guess they may not be in the spirit of this thread as I doubt anyone would take this seriously.

u/strategicdeceiver · 4 pointsr/audiophile
u/cbartlett · 4 pointsr/CrappyDesign

The reviews are just how one might predict, lampooning:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IL3TZSQ/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8

u/Scuderia · 4 pointsr/xbox360

I'm sorry, but looking at the reviews of this HDMI cable it does seem that the more expensive cables are A LOT better.

u/kittehmew · 4 pointsr/SantasLittleHelpers

Super stylish.

Then you can bring along your camera, film some sweet video, take some nice selfies, then go home and watch it on your sweet TV and hooking the camera up with you diamond HDMI camble

u/Mecatronico · 4 pointsr/oculus

First, find the right cable... http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IL3TZSQ

u/Piccoro · 4 pointsr/Chromecast

I'm looking at the specs of your TV, and it DOES have an audio output.

Just use the headphones output! If your Home Theater has an analog input, you can just buy a cheap adapter and connect from your TV's 3.5mm output to your sound system's RCA input.

You'll just need an adapter like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Male-2-Male-Adapter/dp/B004YEBK66

u/ocinn · 3 pointsr/audiophile
u/_mutelight_ · 3 pointsr/hometheater

Do you have a headphone jack on your TV? If so you could get something like this and run it from that into the Aux on that speaker.

Then for power, it looks like a standard power connector which you could use something like this.

Obviously since it is a single speaker, you won't get any L/R separation.

u/deepyell · 3 pointsr/whatisthisthing
u/spameggsspamandspam · 3 pointsr/buildapc
u/APEvorbis2341 · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

You can get a 3.5m to dual rca male cable or 3.5mm to rca socket for easier splitting but need a rca male to male. Keep in mind to set your realtek driver to max power (differs for different drivers/software). Also a good motherboard is recommended like the modern alc1220 or even alc892-897). Ideally a high snr board (some low end boards are good like the msi tomahawk[except b450 ughh dont know why msi dumdbed it down:(] or mortar with high output for the codec they implemented by implementing good amps). You also need speaker wire or 2 premade speaker cable for sturdier and easier connection process

u/stufforstuff · 3 pointsr/techsupport

Thrift store, True Value Hardware, HomeDepot, Office Depot, Staples, Walmart, Target - all will have them.

Here's a link on Amazon if you hate to shop in real life:
https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Universal-Power-5-15P-IEC320C13/dp/B00005113L/ref=sr_1_3?

u/sudonem · 3 pointsr/Atlanta

What kind of printer is it? If it's the kind that doesn't have a power brick built in to the power cord, you can pick up a replacement pretty cheaply at MicroCenter

Alternatively:

u/EinTheVariance · 3 pointsr/headphones

it looks like the GSX1000 has a "speaker out" which I believe is a line out based on spec sheet: https://en-us.sennheiser.com/global-downloads/file/8226/GSX_1000_-_Fact_sheet.pdf

So you should use that to line out to the magni 3 via a 3.5mm to RCA cable (like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0094A1F3S/). That way you won't be double amping.

u/Hipp013 · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

College kid here, I'll try to help out.

It's generally recommended that you don't ever go for a HTIAB (home theater in a box) as they come with super shitty components and most often don't leave room to upgrade.

You'll get more flexibility and bang for your buck with bookshelves and a sub, but as you mentioned you only want a 2.0 for right now. If bass is really that important to you, I would actually recommend you get a pair of bookshelves now and invest in a sub later on. Towers are great but for a 2.0 setup you're going to want something smaller with better sound quality.

 

---

Bookshelves: used Polk Signature S15's


>Top listing is $165 for like new speakers; S15's run for $229/pair new.

This listing in particular says "Speakers only, nothing else is included" which is odd for them to mention because I don't think these speakers normally come with any accessories. Maybe he's talking about the manual which can easily be found online. But who needs manuals anyway?

 

Amp: SMSL SA-50


>Price fluctuates between $63 and $69. This listing is $63.

Puts out 50 wpc, will power pretty much any speaker you throw at it. I owned this myself and recommend it for a first setup. Just keep in mind you will have to upgrade to a surround receiver if you ever want to move past 2.1 in the future.

---

 


This puts you at $228 shipped. A bit above your absolute max of $200, but this is probably your best bet. You're also going to need to buy some speaker wire. It's only like $8.

So in total, this comes to $236 shipped. A bit above your budget, but it leaves you with some kickass bookshelves as well as the ability to add a sub in the future.

u/Archayor · 3 pointsr/headphones

Yes, this can easily be done.

You'll just connect your D30 and Atom like a normal DAC/Amp setup, and connect the RCA outs on the back of the Atom to the AUX input on the AD18. The Atom will automatically act as a pre-out once you unplug your headphones and route the input from your DAC through to the AD18, and you can use the volume wheel of the Atom to control the volume of your speakers as well.

So all you'll need to buy in addition to that is a dual-RCA to 3.5mm TRS cable (like this one)

u/raistlin65 · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Correct.

This is all you need for speaker wire for those speakers if you are not running them more than 25 ft from the amp. https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Audio-Stereo-Speaker/dp/B006LW0WDQ/ref=sr_1_4

RCA cables do not have to be expensive. These cables will work fine https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Stereo/dp/B01D5H8JW0/

If you have the room for it, the best deal on amplification is often to look for a used audio video receiver on your local Craigslist. People tend to upgrade AVRs that are ~ 10 years old in order to buy the latest models that support Dolby Atmos ceiling speakers. If your video card has an extra HDMI out, you can also run audio to an AVR using that instead of RCA cables.

Or did you have a separate budget for the amplifier?

u/NParbs · 3 pointsr/buildapc

vga to dvi adapters are cheap.

u/reggydavis · 3 pointsr/HeadphoneAdvice

Considering these are desktop devices, your iPhone won't be able to connect to the DAC, only to the AMP. The Modi 3 comes with a micro usb cable you can plug into your laptop.

Connecting the DAC to AMP

Connecting iPhone to AMP (headphone jack)

u/Kerry56 · 3 pointsr/headphones

By the way, you could use the E10k as a DAC alone, and output to a more powerful amp, like the Magni 2. Might save some cash.

Use a 3.5mm plug in the line out, on the back of the E10k and you'll need RCA plugs on the other end of the cable. Like this Monoprice cable.

u/torbar203 · 3 pointsr/hardware

Ok, there are 2 different models of a monitor sort of like that. One is pretty much the exact one I linked, and that has a VGA connector(was used on PCs before DVI came into the market). The newer ones(back is totally clear) used ADC(which combines video, usb, and power into one plug). If you have the VGA one you're in luck,you either just plug it right into the VGA port on your computer, or if you only have DVI, you just need a DVI to VGA adapter. Once you get the monitor connected to your computer, you're all set, just boot up the machine, and it should be ready to go. No software or anything is required.

If it's the kind with the ADC adapter, it's really not worth it, since the adapters for those usually go for over $100. You'll be much better off finding someone selling/giving away a used CRT monitor locally



As far as your other questions go;

2. Don't really think there are many safety precautions you need to take, assuming it hasn't been rained on or anything while in storage. I guess be ready to unplug it when you first test it incase the flyback transformer or something inside is smoking. If you don't have any experience with the inside of CRTs, don't go inside it to clean it out or anything, and you'll be fine.

3. not really sure. Maybe if you put it in a garbage bag outside with one of those anti-bug bomb things or whatever, that will get rid of any insects. Not really sure how safe those are for electronics. Maybe someone else can chime in?

4. Only a little crazy :-P

u/Umlautica · 3 pointsr/diyaudio

The good news is that everything is already wired for sound, the bad news is that you'll need to buy amp(s) in order to use the speakers. The cable that you're holding up is RCA and is not powerful enough to drive a speaker. You'll need something like a multi-zone amp for 6 channels if you want to use all of the speakers in the house. These are ambient house speakers and not speakers set up for a home theater though right?

An option that might work well if you like Chromecast is to buy two or three pairs of this SMSL SA50 amps with the Chromecast Audio devices. This would also allow you to control multiple zones for music using each Chromecast audio. Each Chromecast Audio connects with each amp using a 3.5mm to RCA cable and then each SMSL amp connects to the gold terminals on the wall using speaker cable.

u/ImaginaryCheetah · 3 pointsr/hometheater

>Wharfedale modus cube series 2

apparently 75watts RMS @ 6ohm. so your amp will need to handle 6ohm loads.

https://www.amazon.com/Channel-Audio-Amplifier-Professional-Speakers/dp/B071XQGYRJ/

and

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-105597-3-Feet-Premium-Stereo/dp/B0094A1F3S/

would get you there. using the headphone output from the back of the TV.

or, as others have said, you can get a used amp for cheap at places like goodwill.

u/theSalmon9 · 3 pointsr/audio

I don't actually have one of these subs, but I'm 99% sure you will not be able to use the sub to power the speaker outputs. The speaker level inputs/outputs are used to get a signal to the sub after it has already gone through an amplifier, and the sub's built-in amplifier is only used to power itself. You can definitely still use the sub by getting an adapter cable to run from the TVs 3.5mm output to the subs RCA Line In, but you will need to get some sort of amp/receiver for the bookshelf speakers. It doesn't have to be fancy, I've used small cheap amplifiers to power speakers and while it wasn't audiophile quality, it was definitely better than the TV speakers.

3.5mm to RCA cable

Small Amplifier I've used before

u/pprkut · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Then you need a DVI to VGA adapter to plug in to your graphics card.

A lot of the time your motherboard or your graphics card will include this adapter.

u/dr3amsINdigital · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

You'll need an amplifier, copper speaker wire, and a cable to attach to your computer (typically 3.5 mm to RCA). Typically, you need to buy things separately.

u/nistco92 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

AMD cards from that era (7850-3xx) have DisplayPort issues. The cable they sent is also probably crap. Try a certified cable like this one.

u/Decoustic · 3 pointsr/Monitors

This one is good

u/MrEleventy · 3 pointsr/headphones

You'd need these. And to set the JBL's input sensitivity to -10 for unbalanced inputs.

u/KidFirstContact · 3 pointsr/cassetteculture

I have a Scarlett 2i2 and have done this very thing. Here’s what you need:

  1. Something from your line out that splits into a right and left - either regular phono plugs that you can attach a TS adapter to (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078DSKHSB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.SmACbWEFMVSV)

    or something that ends in 2 TS male plugs. Whether you’re coming from 3.5mm or phono you can find a cable for it:

u/SquatchOut · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

Yeah unlike many other cables, Display Port cables can be pretty sensitive, and quality matters. Get the shortest cable length and highest quality you can. Accel cables are the most highly recommended. This is the one I have https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0098HVZBE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qVaGzb5NG3HRX

u/poochzag · 3 pointsr/headphones

Best way to do this is use your Magni 2 uber as a preamp. So connect RCA to TRS cables (or RCA cables with TRS adapter) from the Magni 2 preamp outs, to your JBL LSR305's

RCA to TRS example: http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CPR202-Dual-Inch/dp/B000068O17

TRS adapter if you already have RCA to RCA cable: http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-GPR101-Inch-Adaptor/dp/B000068O3S

I used those adapters for my JBL LSR305's because I already had an RCA cable laying around. You'll be able to control volume with your magni 2 volume knob

Edit: spelling

u/SatansF4TE · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I'd second the LSR308's, the bigger 8" driver makes a huge difference to bass response which is pretty key for hip hop IMO and you'd have to buy a separate speaker amplifier for the ELACs.

The LSR308s take balanced XLS or 6.3mm balanced TLS / unbalanced TS input, so you'll want a pair of RCA -> TS cables (or RCA -> RCA + adapters) to connect the Modi.

Unfortunately there's no pre-amp out on the non-Uber Magni, so you won't have an easy reach volume control - and the volume controls on the back of powered monitors are often awkward to adjust, so you could also consider adding a cheap pre-amp such as the Schiit Sys ($49, very good for the price, and fits with your current stack well) for easy volume control/input switching. If you do get one, you'll need an extra pair of RCA cables to connect it.

Other users have mentioned the sheer size of the speakers, so definitely worth considering a pair of speaker stands too - they definitely won't fit on most desks.

Overall that would cost between $425 and $475 depending on exactly where you buy and sales etc, and you won't get significantly better around that price (although personal taste plays a role). It also leaves you an easy future upgrade route if you wanted it (Adding a subwoofer, or upgrading the Modi.)

u/x152 · 3 pointsr/AskBattlestations

You will need an amplifier like this.

That cable is fine, but there are cheaper alternatives on amazon (amazon basics wire I recommend for starters).

You need to hook up your PC to the amplifier through RCA or 3.5mm jack. Then hook up the speaker wire to your speakers.

u/paintwalls · 3 pointsr/synthesizers

Would having two sets of these be the right solution? Nord -> KP3 -> monitors

u/Beer_Is_So_Awesome · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Hi!

A friend of mine recently bought the Dayton B652-AIR, which sound phenomenal for the price. They're on sale right now for $50 from Parts Express. I haven't heard the basic B652, but the reviews seem to indicate that the AIR models are worth the extra money. They have a better crossover (internal circuitry) and an upgraded tweeter that's supposed to provide smoother treble and more clarity.

Second, you're going to need an amplifier to drive those speakers. Your previous system had a built-in amp. I recommend this little guy which is a barebones amplifier that produces nice clean sound and has a very small footprint and a reasonable price.

It won't amplify your headphones, though.

Something like this receiver would cover all your bases-- provide power to your speakers and your headphones as well.

If I were you, I'd just use an analog cable to attach my source (computer?) to the receiver.

Oh, and you'll need some speaker cable to connect the speakers to the receiver.

u/TeamTaeyeon · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

For cords/wires you will need a RCA to 3.5mm cable something like this to connect your amp to your pc. You will also need 3 speaker cables such as these 1 for your amp to sub and assuming your sub will have a high level input and output, you will connect the other 2 cables to the sub and out to the speakers.

You could also make your own speaker cables as well which is a little cheaper by using this

For sub wise, I would consider a Dayton audio sub 800 or 1000 as a start.

u/IwNnarock · 3 pointsr/AskEngineers

Are you referring to using composite/RCA cables to connect the ps2 wiki link? If I recall correctly, my ps2 had the option of using either composite video or component video wiki link.

In either case, the audio portion was always carried through the red and white cables as an analog signal. This means it's the raw waveform, no special protocol. If you have a receiver that accepts this cable, you're good to go. Otherwise, if you have a pair of computer speakers, you could use an adapter as follows to hook them together amazon link.

Admittedly, this is not my field, and I'm solely speaking as a consumer who's messed around with this stuff.

u/skankingrove · 3 pointsr/snes

Hey, so I looked into it a bit more to try to remember how I had everything set up when I was using my monitor. All the digital video converters I am seeing online are more expensive than I remember them being.

Anyway, this is the one that I got. Of course vga only puts out the video, so you need something else to get your sound going. For the sound part, I used something like this. One side accepts the SNES red/white cables and the other I plugged my computer speakers into whenever I played my SNES.


You may be able to find video converters cheaper than the one I linked but I didn't look very much this time around to see. Let me know if you have any luck.

u/jstbuch · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

And output is exactly that. It outputs sound. Your Chromecast needs an INPUT because it is sending sound IN to your receiver. You need a 3.5mm to RCA adapter cable. Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8JW0/ref=twister_B01MDKJXCH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

You can pick on up at radioshack or wal mart.

Then you plug the 3.5mm end into your Chromecast and the RCA ends into your CD or DVD inputs that show in your folder.

u/Highfro · 3 pointsr/crtgaming

3.5mm Jack to 2-RCA Jacks Audio Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009JFF7A/

You need something like this and you would connect your consoles audio cables right to the speakers

u/leeachim · 3 pointsr/PS3

You'll need something like this which will let you plug in headphones via the PS3's RCA cables. I'd also recommend getting a headphone amplifier too as the volume levels were a bit low IMO.

u/SnowblindAlbino · 3 pointsr/cassettes

It's easy: get a cassette deck if you don't already have one, then a stereo cable with a 3.5MM plug on one end and two RCA plugs on the other, like this. Connect your phone to the input jacks on the deck, play your music (Spotify, etc.) at about 80% volume, and set the record level on the deck so the peaks are at 0db and make a test recording. If it sounds OK to you on playback (no obvious distortion) then you're good: make those playlists and start cranking out tapes.

If your files are on a PC/laptop (rather than a phone) and you don't want to transfer them the process is still the same-- just plug that 3.5mm plug into your headphone jack on the computer.

u/outlooker707 · 3 pointsr/xbox360

this

or

this

I'd also recommend the MDR-V6 if you can find it on sale.

Those are good choices for $50. Unfortunately you cannot plug headphones into the xbox 360 cotroller, only the xbox one. The cheapest way to connect them is to use this. You will have to plug in the audio cables to this connector and then plug your headphones into the other end.

This wont work if your friend only has an hdmi cable, there is another way to connect them but you will have to spend another $50 for an adapter. Still I bet your friend would appreciate a nice pair of headphones that they can use with all other devices.

u/explosivo563 · 3 pointsr/audio

Strange? You mean the speaker inputs? That's for speaker cable. Banana plugs are optional.

u/Plazmunky · 3 pointsr/gamecollecting

You don't need the converter to handle your audio. If you're just connecting to speakers, convert the RCA plugs into the 3.5mm jack with a cheap, simple adapter cable. I can link you the specfic cable you need if you describe your audio setup more specifically.

If you're using headphones, you'll need a volume adjuster in addition to the cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00001P4XH/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499697595&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=koss+volume+control&dpPl=1&dpID=31c6iYdpEDL&ref=plSrch

Usually speakers have the 3.5mm male jack hanging off. If that's the case for you, this is the cable you need: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009JFF7A/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499697765&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=female+rca+to+female+3.5mm&dpPl=1&dpID=31snyb-OFLL&ref=plSrch

Speakers usually have some sort of headphone jack, use that if needed so you won't need the volume adjuster. That's only if you're plugging headphones directly into the console's plugs.

u/ballpein · 3 pointsr/audiophile

Get yourself a nice little Amp like an SMSL SA-50, a 3.5mm aux cable to connect your TV's headphone out to the amp, and some 16 gauge speaker wire to connect amp to speakers. Bob's your uncle.

IF money is type, you can go with a cheaper amp, but the first one I mentioned is nicer unit that you can keep when you upgrade to a TV with an optical out.

u/DieselWang · 3 pointsr/audiophile

Amazon Basics (http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0W5Y/) and Monoprice (http://www.monoprice.com/Category?c_id=102&cp_id=10239) make good, cheap speaker wire.

Good choice on the speaker. Those Chanes are amazing values: http://www.cnet.com/news/the-149-chane-a1rx-c-speaker-is-almost-too-good-to-be-true/ The tower version also won a shootout among $1000 speakers with some formidable opposition.

The next step down for subwoofers is the NXG BAS 500 (IMO the best subwoofer under $300): http://www.radioshack.com/nxg-nx-bas-500-12-500-watt-powered-subwoofer/55058551.html#.VIm1SjHF_T8 review here: http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/speaker-subwoofer-reviews/67178-nxg-nx-bas-500-subwoofer-review.html

However, they sell like hot cakes and they're out of stock everywhere (Radioshack and Amazon are out of them). No idea when they'll come back into stock.

A good option for less than $200 is the BIC F12 and will save you some money: http://www.amazon.com/BIC-America-F12-475-Watt-Subwoofer/dp/B0015A8Y5M

u/MagicShoe · 3 pointsr/xboxone

I've got nothing better to do so I'm going to put a lot of info here just incase anyone else comes across this thread with a similar problem. I'm assuming that you are switching back to a monitor which is why you're asking.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Connecting PC speakers to TV (Kinda pointless just saying)

[For RCA Output] http://www.turtlebeach.com/product-detail/cables-parts/35mm-female-to-rca-stereo-splitter-cable/99

||OR||

[For 3.5MM output] http://www.amazon.com/BlueRigger-3-5mm-Female-Stereo-Audio/dp/B007ZIBURC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395552003&sr=8-1&keywords=3.5mm+male+to+female

----------------------------------------------------------------------
----------------------------------------------------------------------

[Connecting console to monitor with audio out on the same cable]

(HDMI to DVI with audio out) http://www.amazon.com/Converter-Audio-external-Needed-DA-HVNP/dp/B00BPX13D4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395552345&sr=8-1&keywords=hdmi+to+dvi+with+audio

||OR The Long Way||

You can mix these two adapters to get audio out and still use an hdmi cable by itself.

Using this:

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Digital-Optical-Audio-Toslink/dp/B001TH7GSW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395552883&sr=8-1&keywords=optical+cable

Connect it to this:

(S/PDIF [Optical Out] to RCA) http://www.amazon.com/SANOXY%C2%AE-AGPtek-Digital-Optical-Converter/dp/B005DIRI6I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395552748&sr=8-1&keywords=spdif+to+rca

THEN connect the female rca from that small box to this:

http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-6-Inch/dp/B000I23TTE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395552852&sr=8-1&keywords=rca+to+3.5mm+female

Then connect your speaker's 3.5mm male cable to the female 3.5mm cable.

u/covertash · 3 pointsr/headphones

Connect a cable like the following (3.5 mm to RCA) from your motherboard's line out to the Magni 2:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8JW0

Max out the volume in Windows, and then use the Magni 2's knob to adjust the volume up and down, going forward.

u/justanotherdickweed · 3 pointsr/audiophile

Buy 14 or 16 AWG. It's just standard every day speaker wire you need. Nothing special. 18 would be fine too if you've already got it. If not, this is good.

If you're after fancy looking stuff, I just picked up a set of these. and they are beautiful.

u/4567890 · 3 pointsr/Android

A2DP is the name for steaming stereo Bluetooth audio. Android is setup as a sender of audio, not a receiver.

Your best bet would be to buy an A2DP receiver (like $50) and hook that up to your speaker system. They'll probably come with a 3.5mm jack but you can change that to RCA audio (the red/white plugs) with an adapter. You'll also want to get one that uses a power cord (usually usb) instead of batteries. I had a setup like this in my car, it worked great, like magic.

For instance:

A2PD Receiver (This is what I used, don't worry about the branding =P)

Mini USB power cord

3.5mm to RCA Audio Adapter (If you need it)

Total is ~$50

u/TheJon93 · 3 pointsr/letsplay

Headphones. plug these into the back of your tv, then you can plug in your headphones.

u/Shmutt · 3 pointsr/patientgamers

Hmm let me try later at home. I bought a Turtle Beach wireless headset recently. It's meant for PS3 and X360 but I've been only using it on my PC.

EDIT:

Just looked through the manual and Google. Yup, the PS3 cannot transmit game audio via bluetooth. My wireless headset has a unit that plugs into the PS3 via optical cable and then transmit it over the 5Ghz range.

There's also a simple male-to-female Y-converter if you don't want a female-to-female converter.

u/rivalarrival · 3 pointsr/DIY

like this?

Search for '3.5mm to RCA' for more options.

Edit: Changed the link to the female version of the adapter.

u/Ghost_Pack · 3 pointsr/audio

First double check that your PC doesn't have a combo jack (3.5mm analog and 3.5mm optical in the same port). a lot of modern PCs (especially macs) have this and if that's the case this is your best bet for audio. This is what you'd want.

​

If you're using HDMI output (especially if you're using a receiver or multiple HDMI inputs), something like this is a good choice.

​

If not, your next best bet is a internal soundcard with optical output (like this one) if it's a desktop, or an external USB soundcard with an optical output if it's a laptop (like this one).

​

If neither of these work, and/or you're on a device that only has a 3.5mm analog output and nothing else, you can use one of these with one of these adapters. It's known as an analog to digital converter (ADC) and will take in analog (RCA/3.5mm) and convert it to a digital format like optical. This isn't super recommended, as it add extra conversion steps to the process and will reduce the sound quality of your soundbar somewhat unless you pay out extra money for a high quality professional ADC.

u/omers · 3 pointsr/Beatmatch

That sounds like a great setup to me. The DDJ-SB is fast becoming one of the main recommendations for those looking to go the Serato/Pioneer route and Sennheiser makes fantastic headphones with their iconic HD-25s being essentially an industry standard... While I've never used the HD6s I've seen good reviews and that blue is mighty sexy... :D

While computer speakers aren't the best for DJing they're better than nothing for practice at home. You'll need an adapter to go from the RCA master out on the DDJ-SB to the 1/8" TRS connector of the speakers though... This: http://www.amazon.ca/30S1-01260-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-Connector/dp/B000I23TTE

(You will of course also need a laptop or computer.)

u/Kennertron · 3 pointsr/rocksmith

You would probably want something like this RCA to headphone adapter then you can use any headphones you like.

I have a crappy pair of Behringer headphones I got with a practice amp kit I had bought early on in my guitar learnings, but here's some Sennheisers that look pretty nice.

Works with anything that has RCA audio out.

u/rickybobbyeverything · 3 pointsr/CarAV

if you're trying to connect a 3.5mm jack to RCA you can use an adapter: https://www.amazon.com/30S1-01260-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-Connector/dp/B000I23TTE

u/jackholexxxx · 3 pointsr/vinyl

The turntable has a built-in preamp, so you do not need one. You will however need a receiver and speaker wire.

Or you can return the speakers and get a set of powered monitors. The powered monitors could be connected directly to the turntable. You will have to adjust the volume using the controls on the speakers.

u/oddsnsodds · 3 pointsr/audiophile

Those are passive speakers requiring separate amplification, which the Mac doesn't provide.

You could use something like the SMSL SA-50. (I need to make a macro for that sentence.):

https://smile.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC/

A cable like this from the Mac to the amp:

https://smile.amazon.com/Hosa-CMR-206-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B000068O3B

Speaker wire from the amp to the speakers:

https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0W5Y

u/TheRealMisterFix · 3 pointsr/nvidia

Yes, just make sure to use an active converter. The passive (unpowered) ones can't pass enough bandwidth to the monitor to drive [email protected] I have three of the active connectors and they work fine. Expensive, though! (~ $100).

Here's an Amazon link for the ones I use:
https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-Dual-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY

u/Freezerburn · 3 pointsr/audiophile

Yep Schhiit dac and amp are fantastic and the HE400 is as well. Can't go wrong with that combo!


Schitt Modi


Hifiman HE-400

Getting into magnetic planar speakers will get you into a whole other class of audio.

Magnetic planar speakers love power so a Magni wouldn't be bad either but that's over the $500 mark but it's not really required. Also the modi have rca outputs so you'll need something like this http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-6-Inch/dp/B000I23TTE

EDIT:Skip the modi and just get a Fiio E10 Sorry screwed up on the dac deal but the HE-400 is still worthy by and the Fiio E10 will perform as a good dac and amp.

I agree with pagonda, I'd return them.

u/AK-Brian · 3 pointsr/hardware

For 1440p / 120Hz (or for situations like mine, with a higher resolution 2560x1600 / 60Hz panel) you'll need an active Displayport to DVI-D adapter (along with a proper dual link DVI-D cable). The common <$30 adapters are all passive DVI-I single link and max out at around 1920x1200 / 60Hz.

The two active adapters that pop up as generally reliable are the Dell Bizlink XT625 and the Startech DP2DVID2. They run between $75 and $120 depending on the retailer.

u/squidwalk · 3 pointsr/PS3

The old-fashioned idea is for you to employ a 2 x RCA Male / 1 x 3.5mm Stereo Female, so you can take your stereo sound and plug some headphones into it. It seems like your TV doesn't have any proper audio out for it, so you'll have to use ones straight from the PS3.

u/Tacanacy · 3 pointsr/PS4

Headphones:

  • AKG K612 Pro
  • AKG K701
  • AKG K702
  • Audio-Technica ATH-AD700x
  • Audio-Technica ATH-AD900x
  • Beyerdynamic DT880
  • Beyerdynamic DT990
  • Philips Fidelio X2
  • Sennheiser HD558/HD579
  • Sennheiser HD598/HD599

    Headsets:

  • Massdrop x Sennheiser PC37X
  • Sennheiser Game One



    I have Audio-Technica ATH-AD700X, Beyerdynamic DT990 (600 ohms), Philips Fidelio X2 and Sennheiser HD598 of these.

    AD700X has subdued sub-bass and emphasized treble. It has clean bass and a little harsh treble. It has a huge soundstage, excellent imaging, separation and clarity, and great detail retrieval.

    DT990 has subdued sub-bass, emphasized mid-bass and very emphasized treble. It has clean bass and a little sharp and splashy treble. It has a huge soundstage and excellent imaging, separation, clarity and detail retrieval.

    Fidelio X2 has emphasized sub-bass, mid-bass and treble. It has clean bass and, as far as I remember, smooth treble. (The stock earpads caused channel imbalance, so I discarded them around a year ago, and haven't bought new stock earpads yet.) The soundstage is very wide, like the others I've mentioned, but it lacks some depth. It's probably only noticeable if you play competitively or compare it side-by-side with headphones that are deeper. This affects the imaging from front to back. The imaging from left to right is excellent. Separation and clarity are excellent. Detail retrieval is great, but the bass overpowers/masks sound cues a lot.

    HD598 has subdued sub-bass and is mid-forward. It has clean bass, smooth treble, and excellent clarity. I haven't used it much, so my impressions are that it has a large soundstage and good imaging, separation and detail retrieval.



    K701 and K702 are too hard to drive for the MixAmp. K612 might be loud enough, but is said to sound much better with a dedicated headphone amplifier. You can use an amp with the MixAmp. You'd need a 3.5mm-to-RCA cable and a TRRS Y-splitter. The featured amp is Schiit Magni, which has been replaced by Magni 3 and is a very powerful amp. It can also drive the 600-ohm version of DT990 and DT880.

    To use an amp without the MixAmp, you'd need a DAC (digital-to-analog converter), e.g. FiiO D3, Schiit Modi 2 Uber or Topping D30. There's a common problem with reversed left and right channels when using USB DACs, so use one with optical unless the product officially supports PS4. You'd need an RCA-to-RCA cable to connect the amp to the DAC. You could use a DAC-amp instead, like Micca Origen G2. It can't be connected to the MixAmp, only separate amps can.

u/capacitors · 3 pointsr/vintageaudio

Okay, you need some speaker wire (I'd recommend 16 gauge 50 or 100 feet like this) and some RCA cables. You can probably find decent cheap RCA cables at a thrift store.

Connect the turntable RCA plugs to the PHONO input jacks on the back of the receiver and connect the ground wire to the SIGNAL GND screw beneath the PHONO jacks. The white plug is left channel and the red one is right channel. Similarly, connect the CD player with an RCA cable from the OUT jacks on the back of the CD player to the CD IN jacks on the back of the receiver. CD players don't require a ground wire.

Cut some equal lengths of speaker wire and strip about 1/2" of the plastic insulator from both ends like this. Connect the stripped part of the wire with the white stripe to the FRONT SPEAKERS red clip on the back of your receiver, and the wire without a stripe to the black clip. Connect these wires to two of the small speakers. Make sure to connect white stripe to red clip and no stripe to black clip on the backs of the speakers. You should have sound now left and right.

You can connect the other two small speakers to the SURROUND SPEAKERS clips if you want to, but those are primarily used for movies.

What does the back of your sub-woofer look like?

Edit: Here is a link to the manual

u/wgboyd · 3 pointsr/vinyl

IMO in your home, it doesn't really matter. If you're running like 200 feet, then maybe it would be an minor issue. Everyone overthinks this crap for what, a $200 pair of speakers? If you've spent $14,000 on speakers, then sure analyze the hell out of it, otherwise you'll never tell the difference. If you crack your speaker open you're going to find (assuming there's a crossover) plenty of wiring that's far thinner than speaker wire. I buy this 16g from Amazon and have no issues at all with it.

u/piratenovelist · 3 pointsr/ToolBand

I am going to be using this article plus my own personal experiences in the 7 years I have been collecting: https://www.techradar.com/news/best-turntables


Turntable: Audio-Technica ATLP120USB Direct Drive Professional USB Turntable Price $229.00 (On Sale at the time of this writing) it comes with a built in Pre-Amp so you are good to go. This is one I have been eyeballing myself.


Amplifier: Yamaha R-S202BL Stereo Receiver Price $149.95 (On sale at the time I am writing this). This is the one I personally use and I love it. It has multiple channels so you can allow for growth. For example I got a stereo cd player at the local thrift store I am trying to upgrade. I just need RCA Cables to hook it up which I do.


Speakers: https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-T15-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B002RJLHB8/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 Price $49.98 (Sale at the time I am writing this)


Wire from speakers to Amp: AmazonBasics 100ft 16-Gauge Audio Stereo Speaker Wire Cable - 100 Feet Price $13.49


Headphone Adapter (Trust me you'll need this if you want to listen to music via headphones) Adapter Price: $7.99


Subtotal: $450.41‬ plus taxes. I think you have wiggle room on the speakers, but I searched for high rated ones. If you need help setting up your Turntable and Stereo please feel free to reach out and I can help! :D

u/portezbie · 3 pointsr/hometheater

Hi, I actually had the exact same dilemma as you and about a month ago went for a 2.0 setup.

In the past I've tried a variety of computer speakers and nothing cut it. I never tried a soundbar, but I am super happy with my 2.0 setup.

So here is my $200 set up (big thanks to Zeos for helping me learn and pick out the parts):

$109 manufacturer refurbished Denon AVR 1513 receiver:

http://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/denavr1513/denon-avr-1513-5.1ch-home-theater-receiver-3d-ready/1.html?_escaped_fragment_=specifications#!specifications

$80 Micca MB42x bookshelf speakers:

http://amzn.to/188rnsc

$9.43 Speaker wire:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LW0W5Y/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=YEA53M3RQ14Z&coliid=I31E8R7IOVMB4E

This is the wire stripper I bought but it is no longer available for prime so I would get a different one:

http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-2078305-Vise-Grip-5-Inch-Stripper/dp/B000JNLUQ6/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1394413512&sr=8-13&keywords=wire+stripper

Maybe get this one (but any will probably be fine):

http://www.amazon.com/Gardner-GS-40-Milwaukee-Clipper-Stripper/dp/B00004WLJX/ref=sr_1_11?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1396936022&sr=1-11&keywords=wire+stripper

Lastly, banana plugs for the wires. Optional, but nice to have ($10.96):

http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-109436-High-Quality-Copper-Speaker/dp/B0097JLQVC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1394413889&sr=8-2&keywords=banana+plug

Total: ~ $250 with tax and shipping and whatnot.

One last piece of advice:

I originally tried the popular Lepai amp and hated it. I just couldn't get the volume I wanted from it.

u/rasfuten · 3 pointsr/hometheater

That won't work, this will
https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

But in all seriousness yes it will hah.

u/_V_H_S_ · 3 pointsr/synthesizers

Your mixer is most likely a mono input. When I had my volcas, I used this cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HGM1D6
You just need one of the 1/4" end into your mixer.

u/Dragynfyre · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Yes but you need to get a $100 adapter for 144Hz support

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00A493CNY

Cheaper adapters do not work for 144Hz. This is why it's not recommended to buy a 144Hz monitor without DisplayPort.

u/Wejekt · 3 pointsr/AskTechnology

This one...

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

read the reviews. it cures cancer. makes a 480 tv a 2160. i also hear it gives blowjobs

u/rarely_coherent · 3 pointsr/videos
u/Mikchi · 3 pointsr/PS4

$700? Get out of here, cheapskate

Or if Ethernet is your thing...

u/AstronautMike_Dexter · 3 pointsr/audio

Male 1/8" TRS (mini jack) to Dual Male 1/4" TRS cable. Like this one.

If you wanted to go a higher fidelity route than this one, I would use a DAC (digital to analog converter) like the Nuforce uDAC with a USB cable from the computer to the DAC and single RCA cables going from the DAC to each speaker.

u/alienashtray · 3 pointsr/videos

I'm just curious...

u/orzof · 3 pointsr/funny

People use those cheap $400 cables? I guess some people just don't care about real quality.

u/StraightJohnson · 3 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

I highly recommend using this USB cable. It really is the only way to make your charging port last longer.

u/CAPTCHA_sucks · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

AudioQuest Diamond 2m (6.56 feet) Braided HDMI Cable only $1,000.00 USD on Amazon.
Link:
https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-6-56-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

u/MonsterEgg · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

If your phone has a regular headphone jack, all you need is this type of cable. Rip the red and black 1/4 plugs apart as much as you need, plug the red into the right speaker and the black into the left, and the other end into your phone.

u/truevox · 3 pointsr/oculus

> I was very amused by the claims of these guys, saying that reflective light was easier on the eyes... such a load of crap.

You OBVIOUSLY haven't spent a lot of time with the technology then, or haven't used the proper equipment. Properly reflected light, reflected off a alloyed gold (or better yet, platinum) based reflector, through a diamond refractor will produce a VERY crisp image that you can look at for hours with no strain. The benefit of using platinum instead of gold is that gold provides just a hit of coloring, whereas platinum provides all the warmth of gold with more accurate colors, but some people just like to cheap out.

Geeze, next you'll be spouting off about how my AudioQuest HDMI Cables are no better than some Amazon Basic crap. :D

u/MafaRioch · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Peasants won't know about my glorious HDMI Cable!

u/Lincolnton · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

If you don't mind swapping the 3.5mm plug to whatever device you are using something like this will work

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6

u/emorello · 3 pointsr/synthesizers

I have the JX-8P and Juno106, which were pretty similar to the JX-3p and the stereo out is for their chorus effect (slight movement between the channels). In the originals, if you didn't want stereo, you could just plug in a 1/4" into the left and it would work just fine, chorus and all, then you can plug into whatever guitar pedals. I guess you could do the same by getting a Stereo Breakout, 3.5 mm TRS to Dual 1/4 in TS.

u/Johnlemonx · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

You need one of these then https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019D048XC

But the better option for you is getting a set of powered speakers.

u/areyougame · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Make sure to get this Diamond HDMI cable to get a 144Hz 4K signal!

u/jzpenny · 3 pointsr/changemyview

Luxottica's market behavior clearly has some pretty serious effects on the price of an essential medical device, which you acknowledge.

I would estimate markups far higher than 200-300%, though. The wholesale prices of Luxottica's products look like retail prices for other products with similar supply chains, produced by manufacturers with far less verticality and negotiating power. Lets be realistic: competitively durable and fashionable eyeglasses could realistically retail in the $25-$50 range, sans lenses.

I would encourage you to consider what the loss or destruction of a pair of glasses by a kid who needs them can do to a struggling family's monthly budget, before you conclude that this sort of markup doesn't have fairly enormous negative social effects.

>Do we say that even though high-end clothes/accessories/etc. charge a huge markup that the consumers are being exploited?

Where each individual draws the line will probably differ, but I think most would agree that it certainly can be exploitative. I don't think that one factor is enough to dispositively conclude that an act is or is not exploitative.

u/DrunkieMunkie · 3 pointsr/Twitch

Hola! I set all this up last year so it’s a bit rusty!

This is a shopping list for an Xbox One mixer setup similar to mine and you may need some help filling in a few gaps and the wiring!

So the idea is to build a setup to be able to use an awesome mic to talk to the stream as well as party chat ‘at the same time’ (which I prefer over using a headset) but to also be able to hear game/chat/PC audio though a single pair of headphones and control their volume levels in one place with ease.

I don't need sound going out to my PC as the Cap card is getting that from the Console via HDMI.
Streaming Xbox to PC then the WORLD!

Xbox – hdmi into a cap card in the PC Avermedia live gamer hd
http://www.amazon.co.uk/AverMedia-61C9850000AE-Avermedia-Live-Gamer/dp/B007SRYAPO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1447858313&sr=8-2&keywords=live+gamer+hd
This grabs the game audio and that’s that bit done, stream using OBS and boom!

Here's is my shopping list for party chat:

Mixer

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Behringer-802-Premium-8-Input-Preamps/dp/B000J5XS3C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415150891&sr=8-1&keywords=behringer+mixer
Headset Buddy (Real name, I didn’t make that up!)

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Headset-Buddy-Adapter-PC35-PH25-Computer/dp/B002D41HKS/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1421341934&sr=1-3&keywords=headset+buddy

Xbox Chat Thing:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Xbox-One-Stereo-Headset-Adapter/dp/B00IAVDOS6

Cable from Buddy to Mixer:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415150937&sr=8-1&keywords=hosa+cables

Cable from Mixer to Buddy!

http://www.amazon.co.uk/HosaTech-CMS-105-3-5mm-Stereo-Interconnect/dp/B000068O35/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1447857349&sr=8-1&keywords=3.5mm+TRS+to+1%2F4+inch

Xbox Mixer(s)

Astro Mixamp (I use)
http://www.amazon.co.uk/ASTRO-Gaming-3AM99-HBU9X-975-ASTROGAMING-MIXAMP/dp/B004L6C6BK/ref=sr_1_4?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1447856882&sr=1-4&keywords=astro+mixamp

Earforce DSS (an option!)

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Force-Channel-Dolby-Surround-Processor-Mac/dp/B003O0KICS/ref=sr_1_1?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1421378828&sr=1-1&keywords=dss1

Ground Loop things:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Headphone-Ground-Isolator-Filter-Stereo/dp/B00INV5LB6/ref=pd_sim_sbs_23_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41-9H3Hc3mL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1TTNMJANJDTK26VVSAE7

Although I have used these ones because I didn’t see the ones above!

http://www.amazon.co.uk/AV-Link-201-086-Skytronic-Isolator/dp/B000NVWB9O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1447857227&sr=8-1&keywords=Ground+Loop+Isolator

Mic wise any XLR mic is fine!

Here is a link to a image i found that kinda helps piece it all together! http://imgur.com/UYaQQUZ

Here is a quick vid of my setup, happy to help if i can! http://www.twitch.tv/drunkiemunkie/v/26306849

Heres is my latest Xbox One vid with party chat but it picks up the Public Lobby if they speak!
http://www.twitch.tv/drunkiemunkie/v/31799799

dM

u/Lukeyy19 · 3 pointsr/AdviceAnimals

Only $200? That's a bargain.

u/tumescent4science · 3 pointsr/hometheater

It looks like that particular model of receiver is audio only. I don't see any optical connections so analog RCA is the only way to go. The Sony TV should have a headphone output along the side. The red and white input on the receiver will need to connect to that headphone connecter on the TV. This will require a cable such as this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019D048XC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.KAAzbJCR2FBK

To really take advantage of digital audio, you would need to upgrade the receiver.

Edit: I see that you tried the RCA connection from the TV to the receiver. The composite connections on the TV are going to be audio IN. Not OUT. The headphone port on the TV will be the only way to send audio out to that receiver. Without HDMI or optical capability on the receiver, this tends to get complicated.

u/idontlikevegetables · 3 pointsr/Guitar

Those loudspeaker jacks on the left side are for attaching another cabinet (speakers without an amp) to your amp. That "internal off" switch means you can drive a separate cabinet (treating your amp as a head) or you can run both the speakers in the combo and external speakers.

Which adapter are you using from your computer currently? The normal input jack on an amp (usually) takes a 1/4" TS (mono) cable in, so your adapter might be a 3.5mm TRS (stereo) male -> 1/4" TRS female cable.

What you really want is the stereo signal from your computer's mini jack to be split into two 1/4" male jacks.

If you have the adapter as I described above, you can use the cable you listed to go into the aux in on the amp. That's what I would do. Alternatively, if you have a different adapter (like 3.5" male-> 1/4" male, which wouldn't plug into the one you listed), you could use this cable instead:

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=sr_1_4?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1520265704&sr=1-4&keywords=TRS+to+TS

Keep in mind that your amp cabinet has two 12" speakers and there's no tweeter to handle high frequencies. You're going to get a low-range response and the drums (particularly the hi-hat) are going to sound muffled no matter what.

u/Einsteins_coffee_mug · 3 pointsr/pocketoperators

Yup.

these are my favorite for hand held PO noodling since they keep the cable neat cooked up like that. Takes up less room than a straight 3’ cable would.

And these guys are great for a nice solid desktop setup.

Depending on how you record or mix the output, you may want to pickup a 3.5mm to 1/4” breakout cable to deal with any stereo/balancing issues you might encounter.

u/admiralspark · 3 pointsr/Android

Can we get a DIAMOND MICRO-USB for $2000 though? Like these but smaller: http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-2m-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M

u/jabob513 · 3 pointsr/PCSound

I personally recommend the Klipsch ProMedia as the best sub-$200 option. Sound is really solid and it's definitely got the bass. Plugging your computer in is straightforward and I believe the newest version has bluetooth as well. Best Buy used to have it as a demo with their computer speakers, not sure if they do anymore.

A better option might be studio monitors like the JBL LSR305/LSR30X which are also an insane deal. You'd need to get a bluetooth adapter and you'd need to worry about inputs (many studio monitors take 1/4" or XLR, which would require janky adapters (probably won't sound great out of a headphhone out without something like this) or a dac/audio interface like this or this. The JBL approach will get you a better sound (more accurate to the music, more balanced sound, magical amazing beautiful and perfect imaging) but will probably be a bit above what you'd like to spend. Most of that stuff can also be bought used if you are okay with that.

I would try and stretch or save up a bit for the monitors. They're a pretty solid step up from most all "computer speakers," and the JBLs in particular are one of the best bang-for-buck deals in audio that I've seen.

Best of luck, and feel free to shoot me a PM with more questions or what you decide to do!

u/warinthestars · 3 pointsr/audio

yes.

Depending on your mixer, all you need is this: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1522086784&sr=8-4&keywords=1%2F8+to+trs

plug into headphone jack, plug into 1/4 inputs on mixer.

u/centerflag982 · 3 pointsr/funny
u/Animate_XOR · 3 pointsr/bestof

Companies will advertise that their HDMI cables produce a "Clearer Picture" and such when that is physically not possible, as the signal is digital and not easily degraded by noise. (Seriously you would probably have to run the thing through a microwave, and even you have more things to worry about, like it catching on fire)

They also charge, $50, $100, and in one hilarious case $10,000 for cables that will fare no better than a $2 cable off monoprice.

The $10k one if you're curious: http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ

u/Costco1L · 3 pointsr/audiophile

Those included cords will not cover all of your needs since the Scarlett Solo does not have TRS or XLR output. You could actually just plug this into your computer's headphone jack (if the DAC is good). What's the point of the Scarlet interface other than a volume control knob? It just seems like a lot to spend at your budget if that's its main use.

u/e60deluxe · 3 pointsr/hometheater

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HGM1D6/

since you need to get it tonight, i would check at a music equipment store, like Guitar Center, or similar.

u/Syradil · 3 pointsr/audiophile

My Christmas gifts have complicated my computer setup and I am wondering if a Schiit Uber stack is the answer.

I got myself a pair of JBL LSR305's and was gifted some Sennheiser 598's.

Currently using this cable to connect the LSR305's to my computer with no easy way to use the headphones or connect my ps3.

The way I picture it working is the computer connecting to the Schiit Modi 2 Uber via USB and the ps3 via optical, with the output running to the amp.

The amp is where my questions are. With the 305's connected to the Magni 2 Uber, will the volume knob control the speaker volume when no headphones are connected? Also, will the output automatically switch over to headphones when I plug them in to the Magni?

u/DaRkWeAvEr · 3 pointsr/shittyaskscience

Yeah. I think this one might actually work http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Audio-Ethernet-Connection/dp/B003CT2A6I

OP should try it and let us know

u/agent_of_entropy · 3 pointsr/techsupport

You need one of these.

u/TrackieDaks · 3 pointsr/diyaudio

My bad, hosa.

Hosa CMP-159 3.5 mm TRS to Dual 1/4 inch TS Stereo Breakout Cable, 10 feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_whYVzLuecrDTZ

u/erix84 · 3 pointsr/geek

Are you insinuating that I may have overspent when I bought my $14000 HDMI cable?

u/CrusherW9 · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Purchasing them individually will be fine. Each one should come with a power cable. Using them as a pair, each one will need to be plugged into power, and you'll need to connect each one to a signal. The speakers operate completely independently of each other. So to plug it into a normal 3.5mm source, a 3.5mm to 1/4" TS (mono) cable is what you want. XLR should only be used when your source is balanced, which a 3.5mm port from a computer motherboard or phone for instance is not. I used this exact cable with my BX5 D2s for a while until I got an audio interface and went XLR.

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1500337888&sr=8-4&keywords=3.5mm+to+1%2F4+ts

u/SamTarlyLovesMilk · 3 pointsr/badhistory

One example of some pretty good trolling on Amazon are the reviews for Amazon's most expensive HDMI cable.

u/Xandrez192 · 3 pointsr/WTF
u/neomancr · 3 pointsr/GalaxyS7

You actually have one of the best android devices for that second to the LG v20. It supports Bluetooth and USB microphones. Otherwise get a splitter like this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1486925540&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Headphone+mic+splitter&dpPl=1&dpID=41p4oX5fWXL&ref=plSrch

Go to the galaxy apps store and get the stock voice recorder it works great. It'll record with dynamic gain so no matter how loud it still won't distort. You can scream into it and it'll sound fine. It's amazing.

There are also great Samsung pro audio solutions too that'll let you do professional 24 bit recordings with live processing

u/maddecentwriting · 3 pointsr/fountainpens

The pen needs a diamond HDMI cable matching accessory designed by Sylvester Stallone™. Add skulls, some truck nuts, and maybe a tribal design...bingo bango we double the price.

Also, I'd like the Chaos if it only accepted cartridges.

u/staplesgowhere · 3 pointsr/pics

Well, not really.

Accessories normally have a higher margin but even those are somewhat competitive. For example Best Buy sells house brand USB extension cables for $4.99. http://www.bestbuy.com/site/dynex-6-usb-a-to-usb-a-extension-cable-black/8610285.p?skuId=8610285

The $300 cables are audiophile snake oil that no reasonable person would even consider. Like this one: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/audioquest-carbon-9-8-hdmi-cable-black-dark-gray/9892524.p?skuId=9892524

And that's nothing compared to what you can find at Amazon, like these $2700 HDMI cables from the same manufacturer:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CT2A6I/ref=s9_dcacsd_dcoop_bw_c_x_4_r

I do not work for Best Buy, nor have I purchased anything from them in the past 2 years. I used to work for one of their vendors though.

u/-A_V- · 3 pointsr/Overwatch

Diamond HDMI cabling to reduce lag.
http://amzn.com/B003CT2A6I

u/criose · 3 pointsr/audiophile

Yes, using adapters like this or this you can connect them to unbalanced sources using 3.5mm TRS or RCA respectively.

u/paganisrock · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/22travis · 3 pointsr/audiophile

Here's a $13,499.75 HDMI cable

u/Trick5ter · 3 pointsr/diyaudio

You just need this - https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1403569361&sr=1-1&keywords=hosa+3.5+stereo+to+dual+1%2F4

Connect it to both speakers and the jack goes to pc and configure your soundcard to output stereo instead of 5.1 (I am not sure about this part since ive never used 5.1)

Also your speakers will work in single ended mode which is ok if the cables are not too long.

u/rsilverblood · 3 pointsr/ZReviews

http://www.jblpro.com/www/products/recording-broadcast/3-series/lsr305#.VtfW7pJriM0

Click the 2nd picture. It uses XLR or TRS (1/4" mono) connectors. You can use a 3.5mm to 2x 6.3mm mono (read: 1/4") Y splitter.

Translated: You need a cable that takes your 3.5mm stereo and makes it into two 1/4" mono.

(You should have a 3.5mm output from your motherboard's audio. But hopefully you'll buy a dedicated DAC if you want better audio.)

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=pd_bxgy_267_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1MRSZFN3VTTRTHXTX1PW

That kind of cable. You can use 1/4" mono audio extension cables if you've got longer cable runs.

NOTE: Your link is for ONE JBL LSR305. You'll need two if you plan to run it in stereo. Just sayin'

u/sinlightened · 3 pointsr/sony

Yeah.. there are adapters to turn the single aux on your headphones into 2 separate mic/headphone connectors.

You need something like this

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_vS8Xzb3M6HSCV

u/Cocoapebble755 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Is this what you are looking for?


Maeline 3.5mm Female to 2 Male Gold Plated Headphone Mic Audio Y Splitter Flat Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wCl3Db8CKATWZ

u/Rocko9999 · 3 pointsr/headphones

Yep. You need this. https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Male-2-Male-Adapter/dp/B004YEBK66

Use headphone out on the back of your PC into the AUX port on the receiver. Start with the PC volume low and the receiver volume low.

u/rcmaehl · 3 pointsr/techsupport

PC: Green Audio Out 3.5mm Port -> Surround System: Audio In
You'll need the right cable for it though. Example

However, that might only be standard audio.
(I never messed with out style audio, I just use ToSLink for my audio.)

u/iritegood · 3 pointsr/DealsReddit

The description is wrong. The PS4 uses a 4pole 3.5mm connector. To use the headset with a PC just get a splitter

u/KnockKnockComeIn · 3 pointsr/Logic_Studio

To send/receive MIDI you need MIDI to USB interface.

To receive audio signal you need dual 1/4 TS cable to 1/8” TRS cable.

Option1: Money is not an issue:

OP you’re best bet would be a audio interface as it allows you to connect your keyboard plus so much more.

Something like this:
https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/Scarlet2i4G2--focusrite-scarlett-2i4-usb-audio-interface

And midi cables and TS cables




Option 2: Money is an issue/not ready to for a audio interface:

MIDI to USB built into MIDI cable:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0719V8MX1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_UBGmDbDYWDC3D

1/4 TS to 1/8 TRS:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XCGmDbF1750Q2

u/salnajjar · 3 pointsr/karaoke

You're going to need a mixer, to take the audio from the microphones and the karaoke backing track and then put out the final version (also some people sing louder than others so you'll need to be able to adjust individual volumes).
This means you'll also need an amplifier, as most TV's don't have an audio in connection.
This means you'll also need speakers.

You could look at getting some decent amplified speakers, you only need one if you're doing this in a home.

Lastly, look into something like Karafun initially as the software. You can take out a 48 hour subscription for about £5 and then you have access to all their songs. Just read about no internet at farm, not even wireless data that you can tether via mobile phone?

So to recap, you need to purchase:

u/tyrannosaurus_wrex · 3 pointsr/audiophile

I think there is a tech support sticky...but...my thought is that your 3.5mm to dual 3.5mm is splitting the stereo signal into two separate stereo signals (like for plugging in two sets of headphones for two people to listen at the same time). You want something that splits the stereo signal into separate left and right to go into your speakers, or just a cable like this.

u/porksandwich9113 · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

So the magni 3 has rca inputs.

So my set up is computer --> optical --> smsl 793 dac --> rca --> magni 3 --> headphones.

The smsl 793 is actually a dac/amp combo but I found it underwhelming with my 6XX, luckily it has a line out if you only want to use the dac portion. I've had it for years but they were only pushing 32 and 80 ohm headphones before and would really struggle to reach listening volume with 300ohms.

However a dac is not necessary. You could very easily take the 3.5mm jack into a split rca into the magni, then hook your headphones to that. You'd just need this cable between your pc and the amp.

https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Male-2-Male-Adapter/dp/B004YEBK66

Many people recommend a dac simply because it can make an improvement in sound, will help avoid electrical interference since the signal is over USB or SPDIF (Coax & Optical), and can help if you have a noise floor issue (hiss) and jitter.

Most modern dacs in computers are fairly decent, and the the built in amps are not terrible for headphones up to 32-80 ohm range. But once you get into those high ohm, you have to get an amp.

u/Ironcleric · 3 pointsr/xboxone

I think you nailed it.... I'd bet that's a headphone output port on the stereo system... most stereos use L/R (red and white plugs) RCA jacks for audio input... try those stereo ports in the back with a 3.5mm to (L/R) RCA cable...

This cable

Edit: Easy test with zero monies spent... cut the stereos fm radio on and plug headphone in... if you get audio out of the headphones it's an output jack.

u/HoustonWHOO · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Gotcha, so something like this then?


https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6


Thanks for the quick reply!

u/Ruairi101 · 3 pointsr/audio

Yamaha HS monitors have 1/4inch TRS and XLR inputs (no RCA as far as I know), so if you wanted to use them with a desktop without any/minimal extra hardware, you could get a 3.5mm to dual 1/4 inch cable (like this); 3.5mm goes into your computer's headphone jack, 1/4 inches go into the monitors.

Someone else can probably give better advice on whether or not to buy a DAC/interface. I use HS7s and I plug them into a Scarlett 2i2, which has 1/4 inch monitor outs. There's also a 1/4 inch headphone jack with separate volume knobs, so I can switch between monitors and headphones without much fuss. I'm pretty happy with that setup, but a 2i2 might be overkill just for that alone (I use it for recording from XLR mics as well, that's its main purpose).

If you're using a USB headset, you can keep them plugged in for both of the above approaches and switch audio devices via your OS when you need them.

u/AkwardImplants · 3 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

It will be easy to find out. Plug your headphones into the female end. Plug one of the two male plugs into your keyboard and play something. If you only hear sound in one ear, you're good to go.

If you want to go dual 1/4" male into a single stereo male mini plug, you can buy that cable here.

Keep in mind that depending of the quality of your keyboard's internal grounding circuitry, you could get some hum and/or phase issues, but probably shouldn't have any problems.

u/Kaligraphic · 3 pointsr/audioengineering

You have a balanced XLR input and it's only playing the difference between the left and right channels. You're playing a track that has the instruments panned left and right, and the vocals relatively centered.

First, what you want is something more along the lines of this 1/8" to 1/4" breakout cable. If you have a free stereo channel, plug both 1/4" plugs into there, otherwise just plug it into two adjacent mono channels, pan them all the way left and right, and adjust them together.

Second, you should know that most mixers can supply 48V on their XLR inputs. Condenser microphones need that, dynamic mics don't care, but laptop audio ports can fry. 1/4" jacks are safe, though, so always prefer them above XLR for computer/phone/iPod type input.

u/Elnrik · 3 pointsr/headphones

Uhhh... Maybe.

I'd go with something like this...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_TDQOybBVYZNSS

u/ZeosPantera · 3 pointsr/Zeos

You really can't use that AMP-100 to power headphones but you do have the choice to run the headphones directly from the UCA202 DAC or pass the signal to any of the FiiO Headphone amplifiers with one of these cables.

u/olbaze · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

The Kraken Pro has a 3.5mm combojack, usually found in cellphones and laptops. You'll need a splitter for your PC. Something like this.

u/widowhanzo · 2 pointsr/buildapc

18, As long as you need it to be. www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-03134-Universal-IEC320C13/dp/B00005113L

u/SlimmJimm01 · 2 pointsr/audio



so any old cd/dvd player will work? all i need to do is plug in the RCA cables into the amp?


The Amp

The Speakers

wire

u/Reverend_Sins · 2 pointsr/emulation

I used these in my cab worked like a charm:

u/rubberbandage · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

What a great boombox for audio in/out options! I take it your laptop has a mic/line-in port? If so, my recommendation is to first get yourself two 1/8" stereo-to-dual RCA cables (like these, brand not important).

  1. Connect a cable from your headphone jack on the laptop to RCA/line-in on the RX-5090, and a cable from the RCA line-out back to your laptop’s line-in port.
  2. Set up a new stereo recording track in your DAW set to line in.
  3. Pop a cassette in that boom box and hit record
  4. Start recording to that track in your DAW
  5. Start playback of one of your songs from your laptop (if you’ve made a new stereo track in your existing song session, playback will probably start automatically while recording)
  6. At this point the audio should go from your laptop’s headphone port -> line in of the 5090 -> cassette -> 5090 line out -> laptop line-in -> DAW, and you’ll end up with a “print” of the audio path via the tape deck. This is exactly how outboard audio effects work.

    Rinse and repeat! Hope that helps, I’m happy to clarify more if needed.
u/hack_tc · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

The cheapest I would go would be this Dayton bundle. If you can spend an extra $15 or so and make this same combo with the Dayton B652 Air speakers instead, that would be even better. Otherwise, you could also get the Dayton B452 Speakers with that same amp as the cheapest solution, but that 4-1/2" driver isn't going to deliver the lows like the 6-1/2" will, so really splurge for the larger size if you can. You likely also need a this cord if your TV has analog audio out. If it has Optical audio out, you will need this cable instead.

Hope this helps. Good luck.

u/senorroboto · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I assume you're trying to use the surround sound to play audio from your PC?

I've got some good news and bad news. The bad news is that you cannot get surround sound from your PC to your DVD player system. This is because the DVD player system only has stereo auxiliary inputs.

The good news is you can get stereo audio from your PC to your DVD player system. All you need is a male 3.5mm to male RCA adapter: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-105597-3-Feet-Premium-Stereo/dp/B0094A1F3S/ longer ones are available if 3ft isn't enough. That'll plug into your green audio port on your motherboard. Be sure to set your PC output to stereo.

This stereo limitation is because of your DVD player stereo being a cheaper model and not a proper surround receiver setup. It's only designed to give surround sound from DVDs it plays.

u/Preclude · 2 pointsr/ZReviews

There are two good ways to do this:
Option 1:
Grab yourself a set of these. https://www.amazon.com/CableWholesales-Audio-Piggyback-Cable-Female/dp/B000I94FAE/
Plug the double sided end into your source, and then feed the other end to your speakers. You'll then plug another set of RCA into the open ends on the source and send them to your Sub.
Option 2: If you don't like using the windows volume control, then you'll get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/PAC-LC-1-Remote-Amplifier-Controller/dp/B0002J226O/
Also this: https://www.amazon.com/Link-BM105-Male-Barrel-Connectors/dp/B001NCDBEQ
The Barrel connectors will go into your source. Then plus the controller into the barrel connectors, then the piggyback cable into the other end of the controller. Then plug your RCA into backside of the Piggyback and put one set into the speakers, and one set into the sub.
Once you've chosen from the two options, you'll need to set up the speaker and the sub so the volume matches.
To do that I would turn the computer audio up to maximum. Then, turn your speakers up as loud as you would ever comfortably listen to them. Then get your subwoofer gain and crossover where you want it. You will then use your PC volume/or the control nob to control the volume of both of them. If you use the control nob, your PC volume will always be at max.
EDIT: You might also need this to get the sound from your motherboard audio out to RCA: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-105597-3-Feet-Premium-Stereo/dp/B0094A1F3S/

u/BurtonGoutster · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

You can get decent bookshelf speakers, a desktop amp, and speaker wire for about $150 and it will sound far better than a soundbar

Speakers $80

Amp $47

Speaker wire $10

u/sinistar914 · 2 pointsr/hometheater

Keep it simple. Get a headphone to rca cable. The speakers will be an improvement over the built in speakers but it's not worth the expense of try to convert digital to analog. This is what you need; https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-105597-3-Feet-Premium-Stereo/dp/B0094A1F3S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1472918070&sr=8-1&keywords=Headphone+to+rca+cable

u/netinept · 2 pointsr/amazonecho

Exactly. A proper stereo is the solution here. Use a decent amp and speakers for the audio and pair it with an Echo Dot to control it, using the line out jack on the Dot to connect it to the amp.

If /u/Treas0n is looking for a good budget option, I'd highly recommend the Lepai amp + Dayton speaker setup. This setup is the go-to budget kit on /r/audiophile and would be plenty loud with really good sound quality. It's about $90 for the whole kit (+$30-$50 for an Echo Dot):

Lepai LP-2020TI Texas Instruments TPA3118 Hi-Fi Stereo Audio Mini Amplifier with Power Supply https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071FJF4FF/ (don't go for this one anymore, grab a tripath version)

Kinter K2020A+ Limited Edition ORIGINAL Tripath TA2020-020 Class-T Hi-Fi Audio Mini Amplifier with 12V 5A Power Supply Black https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077Z7DBRT

Dayton Audio B652-AIR 6-1/2" 2-Way Bookshelf Speaker with AMT Tweeter Pair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NOA58RS/

AmazonBasics 16-Gauge Speaker Wire - 50 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LW0WDQ/

Monoprice 105597 3-Feet Premium Stereo Male to 2RCA Male 22AWG Cable - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0094A1F3S/

If the OP wants even bigger sound then add a powered sub for $100 more (you may want to double up on your 16ga speaker wire for connecting the subwoofer between the stereo speakers and the amp)

Polk Audio PSW10 10-Inch Powered Subwoofer (Single, Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KVQBA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IEFWBbD0GFQVW

u/FulyenCurtz · 2 pointsr/audiophile

You would definitely need speaker wire (and wire stripper tool) to connect the Miccas to the amp, and then either an aux cable or an aux-to-rca Y-cable to connect the amp to your source (laptop, phone, etc.)

u/rssvitamins · 2 pointsr/headphones

WAIT Your speaker cable is wrong! I'll find you one then edit in a sec

This is what you need
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0W5Y

Make sure 50 feets is long enough, they do 100 as well

The 3.5 mm to RCA is fine, theres a cheaper one here http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-105597-3-Feet-Premium-Stereo/dp/B0094A1F3S

I had another look at the picture of the speakers, they have the type that unscrews so you don't need banana plugs.

You'll want to split about 5cm of that speaker cable apart from both ends, strip ~2cm of insulation off, unscrew the plastic plastic bits off the back of the speakers, feed the exposed copper into the little holes then screw them up tightly. You then have to trace the wire to the other end and connect them to the amp, connect the 3.5mm cable from your source (pc, phone w/e) to the RCA input on the amp, power it up and you're all set

u/az0606 · 2 pointsr/headphones

Honestly, for the interconnects, just shop mononprice, or amazonbasics and other similar brands, unless you really want them to be neat. Don't overpay on cables unless you just have cash to burn or want a certain aesthetic.

https://smile.amazon.com/Monoprice-105597-3-Feet-Premium-Stereo/dp/B0094A1F3S/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=3.5mm+to+rca&qid=1555461246&s=gateway&sr=8-8

https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=3.5mm+to+rca&qid=1555461246&s=gateway&sr=8-3

The less stuff in the chain the better; I wouldn't run my headphones through the receiver unless I wanted the receiver itself to be my amp. Some people do that but receivers usually have a high output impedance. Not bad if you're powering something more power hungry, but IEMs and lower impedance headphoness (ex: Philips Fidelio X2) will have issues.

You'd want the magni 3 or magni 2 uber. You'd have the speakers connected to the receiver, and the pre-amp output from the magni going to the receiver. From the fulla, you'd want the line out to go to the magni. Bit confusing but you should be able to figure it out.

u/adrianmonk · 2 pointsr/audiophile

So you have a complete, working Panasonic SC-PM29, right?

In that case, leave it intact (Panasonic speakers plugged into Panasonic electronics unit). Then, as you can see in the second photo, the back panel has an input labeled "AUX" (one red and one white connector). You want to get a 3.5mm phono to dual-RCA cable like this or this and use that connect the AUX port to the computer. Then turn the stereo on, select the AUX input, and you should be good to go.

u/tielknight · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Example : https://www.amazon.com/Lepy-LP-2024A-Amplifier-Stereo-Supply/dp/B00ULRFQ1A

They connector via a RCA to Audio Cable like this

You wire the speakers to the amp and use the RCA to Audio cable to plug it into your computer.

u/y0y0ma · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

You could manage in $1000 if you buy used and have a little patience. I would say go for floorstanders (like this one) + stereo receivers if you have the space. Otherwise, there are also excellent bookshelves like Mission 731i or Wharfedale Diamonds that will not make a huge dent in your budget. As compared to floorstanders, bookshelves will not be able to give you a good bass response (frankly, I am quite satisfied with my bookshelves) but they save a lot of space. Couple them with a set of good amps (or used stereo receivers from Yamaha/Denon/Kenwood) and place them on stands. You could also add a subwoofer later, if you want to. You can connect your Chromecast device to the amplifiers using a 3.5mm -> RCA connector.

u/tmccoy00 · 2 pointsr/Beatmatch

> I'm wondering how well mixing will work using these speakers. The Amphitheater only has an Aux In port, so I'm wondering if a short RCA to Aux cable will be sufficient and not generate too much static.

Yes - a cable like this will be fine - nice and short and you shouldn't have any issues.

http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-105597-3-Feet-Premium-Stereo/dp/B0094A1F3S/ref=sr_1_1?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1452339040&sr=1-1&keywords=rca+to+3.5mm&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_four_browse-bin%3A7623518011

u/noelsusman · 2 pointsr/Zeos

I bought the SMSL SA-60 because I wanted the extra 3.5mm input to be able to switch between my TV and a phone or something for music. I can hook up my TV and my phone using a 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable to the front of the and it works just fine, but when I use a 3.5mm to RCA cable into the back of the amp I can't get it to work (tried both my TV and my phone).

Did I get a defective product or am I a moron who doesn't know what the hell he's doing?

Also do you have a donation link or something like that? Your information has been extremely helpful.

u/omgftwbbqsauce · 2 pointsr/vinyl

Hello fellow LP120 owner!

Your new turntable comes with a built in preamp, but you still need an amp to amplify the line level audio. Records necessitate a preamp, as the audio level is quite low compared to other sources, (i.e. CD player, iPod). In addition to boosting the audio signal to something your amp can work with, the preamp also applies RIAA equalization which more or less adds back in the low end.

Some of the older amps out there have a specific PHONO input, which is designed to do the same thing a preamp does. Almost all of the new amps on the market have gotten rid of these inputs, as "no one listens to vinyl anymore". You don't need one with a PHONO input though, you just need a good 2-channel amp to power your speakers.

If you don't want to spend much, the Lepai LP 2020 is probably the best bang for your buck. I'm using it right now with these Pioneer bookshelf speakers (very similar to yours) and they sound great. I don't have a recommendation for anything more powerful, but you won't really need anything more powerful unless you go with bigger speakers down the road. Don't forget to grab some speaker wire to wire it all up.

Have fun!

u/Jakomako · 2 pointsr/buildapc
u/Darth_Paratrooper · 2 pointsr/nvidia
u/JumanjiHappened · 2 pointsr/ultrawidemasterrace

Also just recently purchased this. I noticed tiny little white dots appearing randomly at 100hz. Once I switched out the cable with a nicer one the issue was resolved. Here is the cable I’m using now: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0098HVZBE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JnfeAbF1KV04R

u/nesterpr · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Had the same problem with my monitor. The included dp cable is junk. The monitor was flickering and refresh rate was stuck at 85hz. I bought this cable http://www.amazon.com/Accell-B142C-007B-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Latches/dp/B0098HVZBE?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00 and problem solved.

u/ThatsRightWeBad · 2 pointsr/audiophile

If you get him bookshelf speakers like the Q Acoustics suggestion, you'll probably need something to put them on, i.e. speaker stands, unless you've got an unusual amount of room on the stand next to that enormous TV. These can range from pretty affordable to unjustifiably expensive. Just find something that seems stable that you like the looks of. Speaker stands are something you can save a ton of money buying second hand without really having to worry about them being broken or abused, but you might not like gifting something used.

Oh, and if your house is entirely new to this speakers-and-amps thing, make sure you've got some speaker wire. Don't let anyone tell you you need to spend a lot on it. Stuff like this is just fine.

One other question you had was about wall mounting and sound quality--generally speaking nice bookshelves on stands will sound better than something you'd wall mount. In part because you'll have more control over how you place them in the room, and they'll be at ear-level like they should be. And in the case of the Q Acoustics (and many other speakers), there's a port on the back of the speaker that you definitely don't want pressed up against a wall. Basically they need a little room to "breathe".

Now, if he wanted actual IN-wall speakers (where you only see the grill), that's kind a specific and very different thing than what we tend to do around here.

What a great gift idea!

u/cohl3 · 2 pointsr/simracing

As others have said it makes a huge difference. I love feeling the subtle details as well like engine RPM and gear shifts in my back. It really pulls you in.

Get a butt kicker setup if you don’t like to DIY. Otherwise a cheap setup can be pieced together easily:

Shaker:
Dayton Audio BST-1 High Power Pro Tactile Bass Shaker 50 Watts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CDDPJTI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Irj5BbKDNWGTP

Amp:
ONEU Mini amplifier Super Bass Hi-Fi Stereo Audio Amp Booster for Car Moto Home with DC 12V 3A Power Supply, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019MBUX40/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Dsj5Bb3JGVQ77

Wire:
AmazonBasics 16-Gauge Speaker Wire - 50 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LW0WDQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Gtj5Bb7QK1K9K

Free Software:
https://www.racedepartment.com/downloads/simhub-diy-sim-racing-dash.10252/

u/Jathra_ · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Are they like randomly appearing green dots that blink around the screen? That's usually caused by insufficient bandwidth on your monitor cable.

Agree with throwywayradeon here. Get a CERTIFIED DP 1.3 cable such as this one.

https://www.amazon.com/Accell-B142C-007B-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Locking/dp/B0098HVZBE

Edit: It says DP 1.2 but it works fine with 1440p/144, I'm using it without issues at 1440p/165.

u/xsoccer92x · 2 pointsr/NoStupidQuestions

In simple terms this is what you will need.

Speakers -> Use Speaker Wire -> Amp

You will need an amp because the speakers are passive and need power (which your tv can't provide). I listed the usual bang for your buck recommendations. In addition it's up to you whether you want to get banana plugs or not, personally it's just easier to stick the wire straight into the speaker. The MB42 has 5-way binding posts that can accept banana plugs, spades, bare straight wire, and bare looped wire.

Now the easy part. You just have to connect your Amp to your tv. You said you only have optical or aux (no rca?). The amp I linked has the option to use either RCA or Aux input. My personal reccomendation is to use the RCA wire over the Aux, if you can.

And for price vs performance, you can't get too much better than the Micca MB42s. It's always highly recommended as one of the best bang for your buck speakers at that price level.

u/canuckaway_mcthrow · 2 pointsr/audio

Those are what are called "passive" speakers; they need an amplifier.

You'll also need some speaker wire and a 3.5 mm TRS to stereo RCA cable.

Use the TRS-to-RCA cable to connect the computer's "audio out" to the amplifier's "line in", and use the speaker wire to connect the speakers to the amplifier.

u/Eliryum · 2 pointsr/techsupport

I got the 27 inch version of that monitor a few months ago. I used a cheap DP cable from Amazon, and the display would flicker to black above 65 Hz at 1440p. Apparently, not all DP cables are created equal, and you have to use a DP 1.2 certified one (see https://www.displayport.org/products-database/). I ended up getting Accell one such as this: https://www.amazon.com/Accell-B142C-007B-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Locking/dp/B0098HVZBE

Perhaps, this is your problem?

u/knovaa · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Does your PC have HDMI out? If yes, then [this is what you want to do] (https://www.tweaking4all.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/avreceiver_setup_with_arc-800x385.jpg). Get an entry level [AV receiver under $200] (http://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/category/avreceiver/home-audio/receivers-amps/home-theater-receivers/1.html) and connect it to your PC through HDMI. If your PC does not have HDMI, then it can also be connected to the receiver through digital out such as SPDIF or Coaxial. The AV receiver will have multiple inputs and outputs to connect any gaming consoles if you have any.

For budget speakers read this. You can get the Elac B6 for $280 or KEFQ100 for $300 right now. Get 16 gauge speaker wires [here] (https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0WDQ) and you are all set. This set up gives you flexibility to connect additional speakers (for surround sound for movies) and/or if you want a subwoofer later.

u/psionoblast · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

You cannot get 144hz through an hdmi cable on the xb271hu. Im not sure what issues you're having with your dp connection. Did you check to make sure the resolution is set to 1440p and the scaling is at 100%. Also unplug the hdmi cable. If not that the cable could be the issue. The dp cable that came with my xb271hu was awful and would randomly lose connection. I would recommend purchasing a new dp cable if you are using the one that came with the monitor. I attached to the link for the cable i bought and i have no issue running at 1440p 165hz with my xb271hu.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098HVZBE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/I_NeedBigDrink · 2 pointsr/buildapc

For >60hz you need a graphics card and monitor with displayport connections. Also a nice cable that can handle the bandwidth. For that I recommend this cable: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0098HVZBE/?tag=pcpapi-20&th=1&psc=1

u/VogonSmiles · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Are you sure your DP is bad? You need to make sure you're using a VESA certified DP cable. Check out the reviews of a VESA certified cable here.

If you stay with HDMI you'll also want to confirm that your GPU hasn't decided that your monitor is an HDTV. Check out this article.

u/Spacebotzero · 2 pointsr/ultrawidemasterrace

Haha, I bought that same cable in your link and returned it for the AMD recommended cable here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0098HVZBE/ref=cm_sw_r_em_awd_t9uOwb4T8TKDD

I must admit that I didn't think replacing a cable would make a difference, but using that one in my link fixed half of my problems.

u/Easterhands · 2 pointsr/pcgaming

The glass is the only issue I have. Supposedly removing it is easy, but it's not a big problem to me. People talk about PWM flicker being a problem IIRC, but it looks completely fine to me. (everyone seems to be different about that though)
If you do decide on this, make sure you order a legit DP cable, because the one it came with was trash. I recommend Accell cables.

[Mini DP] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A7R9I22?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00)

Standard.

And Here's my setup

u/rphillipps16 · 2 pointsr/ultrawidemasterrace

What do you mean by "which dp 1.1"? If you mean the cable, I have this one

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098HVZBE

I just set the input to DP 1.1, rather than DP 1.2 on the on screen display, and it got rid of my issues with no noticeable cons

u/slumeet · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I bought this one, and it works perfectly fine.

u/pecheckler · 2 pointsr/Vive

This is the exact cable recommended by Acer and AMD for the XR341CK back in 2015/2016. Pretty sure it's the recommended one for the g-sync model too. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098HVZBE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Actually I see displayport 1.4 cables are already hitting the market so that's probably not a good recommendation. The select manufacturer Accell doesn't have 1.4 cables out yet. It's my understanding that the first 4K 144hz monitors to hit the market will require 2 DP1.4 cables connected at once so assuming backwards compatibility is there buying a 1.2 cable may be a waste.

u/plebasaurus_rex · 2 pointsr/Monitors

Make sure you get a product that is certified by DisplayPort.
You can search for certs here:

https://www.displayport.org/product-category/cables-adaptors/

This is the one I have:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098HVZBE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/qMorick · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Get a good cheap pair of bookshelf speakers (or smth more expensive) connect them to an amp and either use a splitter cable to plug it directly into mobo's integrated sound or use a usb dac (with rca cables). You will also have to spend some money on speaker wire to connect speakers to amp.

EDIT: another option is to skip amp part and get a pair of powered studio monitors.

u/Zeeall · 2 pointsr/audiophile
u/ShadowSingularity · 2 pointsr/ultrawidemasterrace

Get this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098HVZBE

Does 3440x1440 @ 100hz no problem.

u/djevikkshar · 2 pointsr/Amd

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098HVZBE

If you do replace your cable that's the best one to get, it's actually certified. But the bigger issue is games hiding 3D rendering behind a static image. No cable will stop that from the freesync flicker.

u/nickoaverdnac · 2 pointsr/vinyl

Correct! However, maybe consider not supporting the evil empire that is Walmart!

Edit: Amazon is actually a little cheaper

u/Teknofiliak · 2 pointsr/hometheater

I'm doing the exact same thing. This is my plan. (As a disclaimer, I am fairly new and a student of /r/Zeos.)

This Receiver

Front Speakers

Center Speaker

Subwoofer

If that sub is too large for the mobility you want, you could go with this, which is quite a bit smaller.

All that (with the F12) will be around $525.

If you're doing surround, which may limit mobility, I'd throw in a pair of these.

Don't forget some good quality speaker wire and banana plugs make life easier if you want to move it easily.

u/Raptor_Magnetic · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I bought This one!

u/roomtotheater · 2 pointsr/hometheater

No need for anything more than 18. Can do 16 if it makes you feel better.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0WDQ

100' is like $3 more too

u/R3DoctOBER98 · 2 pointsr/Amd

Any DP to DVI-D active adapter will work for 1080p 60hz, however in order to use the 120hz function you will need a DP to dual-link DVI-D active adapter which are normally very expensive.

Here's one I found on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY


u/dr_torque · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Depending on what your source's line-out looks like, you'll need to run either this cable(typical for computers) or this cable (for CD players, tape decks and so on) to the amp's input, and some speaker wire from the amp and the speakers. You can then decide if you like the way it sounds, or if you'll need a better sound card or some crap.

u/cd109876 · 2 pointsr/AMDHelp
u/boraca · 2 pointsr/Nvidiahelp

You need Dual Link DVI so you're looking at something like that: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY

u/Emintea · 2 pointsr/hometheater

I don't even have a setup yet, so please, someone correct me if I am leading this person astray, but from my own individual research it seems one of the better and more expandable budget setups involves...

u/dcarcher · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I'll be honest, I haven't had time to really do an A/B test on them, and my schedule hasn't afforded me a lengthy listening session, but I am much more confident in these new cables.

I had previously been using this wire! with these banana plugs. They did the job, and I will continue to use those cables when testing equipment for functionality or if I do a temporary setup for a friend or something.

The new wire is 12 AWG single-conductor. I had considered doing 14 AWG dual-conductor (honestly just for looks), but I decided to go with the cheaper option. I may upload some pics at a later date as my setup has changed and moved around quite a bit since my first setup post.

u/jasoncaserta · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Completely new to this hifi thing and was going to get a closed box 2.1 system for around $150 now Im thinking I will start with

$90 Micca MB42X pair

$40 Nobsound Mini TPA3116

$11 Speaker Wire

Do I need anything else to make these work? Should I consider anything else (willing to go up to $200 if its significant) ? I plan to buy a sub later down the line when my budget allows it.

u/savasfreeman · 2 pointsr/audiophile

I have a speaker that needs repositioning and my cable is too short, I thought it would be easy to just go on Amazon and grab a longer cable, job done, but now I am confused as to what kind of cable I should be going for, etc.

Any standard satellite speaker (I plan to upgrade later), connecting to a Denon AVR-X500, what cable should I be getting?

Is this correct? https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B006LW0W5Y/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE

u/bearwardann · 2 pointsr/Music

EDIT: I put main points in bold so that people can skim through this and get the gist of what I'm saying here. Very long post, so I thought it would be merciful to do so.
 

Alrighty, this may be long so buckle up and get ready for a journey.
 

I don't consider myself a hardcore audiophile or an expert in turntables/records, so I did some research when I was first looking to purchase one. I was originally looking at a Crosley record player but was soon warned about how notoriously evil they are -- by the way, DO NOT GET A CROSLEY, THEY ARE TERRIBLE!!! They are notorious for putting too much pressure on vinyls with their needles and end up scratching, carving, and ruining perfectly good records (for reference, ideal tracking force is two grams while the Crosley applies five grams tracking force). The parts are cheap and outdated and the player itself is extremely unstable and will skip if there's any sort of vibrational disturbance nearby. It's not good at all.
 

That said, I want to make sure you know what exactly you're getting into right now. When you buy a turntable, there are other things you need to buy along with it to make it function correctly. I don't know whether you're planning to get a turntable just as a gift that only your SO will use or if it's something you both will use, but it's important nonetheless to know what exactly a turntable requires to work properly. See, when people buy a turntable, a lot of people don't realize that there are three things that are needed alongside it: a pre-amp; an amplifier; and speakers. Speakers is obvious, sure, and of course you'll need something to control the volume, but a lot of people I've talked to only thought about that kind of stuff after purchasing their turntable.
 

The reason why these things are important is because most turntables rely on an electrical current in order to transmit vinyl to audio, but the current the turntable generates on its own doesn't matter if there's nothing to turn that current into sound. Think of it like a secret code. The vinyl is the coded message, and the turntable is the tool that deciphers the code. It can't decipher the code without the correct key, though; a preamp is like the key. It takes that current the turntable generates and amplifies it so that the signal is strong enough to be decoded by the amplifier. The amplifier is what actually turns it into the sound format, and is how you control volume as well. The speakers project the deciphered sound that you get to hear and enjoy. If you only plan on buying a turntable, then you don't need to worry about these things. Otherwise, keep reading; I'm finally getting to the point so please bear with me after this terrible analogy. :P
 

It's a lot to take into consideration when buying a turntable; when I did my research, I found that the Audio Technica LP series was pretty reliable. It's not exactly ultra high-end, but it's a great starting point for beginning collectors. There are two ATLP record players, the 60 and the 120, and some other variants that I'm not really aware of. I personally use the 120 because I thought it was funny being able to mess with the pitch settings on it, and I like the extended options the 120 has over the 60. This is just a comparison between both the 60 and 120 below if you're interested in the Audio Technica LP series:
 

In Favor of the 120:

  • the LP60 is a belt-drive turntable which means that you'll be replacing a belt in the turn table if it breaks, whereas the LP120 is direct drive and there's no broken belts to worry about replacing

  • the stylus is also a better quality in the 120, but I don't know from experience whether this is true in comparison to the 60

  • the 120 is also sturdier than the 60 as well
     

    In Favor of the 60:

  • the LP60 is smaller and more portable than the 120, as the 120 is kind of bulky and heavy

  • the LP60 is cheaper than the 120 (Amazon says that the 60 is about $100 while the 120 is about $300. I recommend the 60 as the best way to start listening to vinyl over the 120 as it's less of a financial commitment than the 120 is, especially if you turn out not to like records. not meaning to be negative but it's something to consider, as well

  • the LP60 has less options, but the options on the 120 don't usually matter to people who are just getting into vinyl so that's more of a personal preference
     

    Something in the favor of both players, though: they both come with built-in preamps, so you won't have to worry about buying one of those. Some people don't like the sound quality of the built-in preamp, but I think it's fine and it really isn't something to worry about as a beginner. The amp and speakers matter a bit more.
     

    When I went to go find a good amp, I made the mistake of going to Best Buy. Never go to Best Buy. It's a nightmare. The guy I talked to about amplifiers promptly directed us to home sound systems that cost over $1,000 in price. I found one on Amazon for $39. Not only does it work with my turntable, it's also bluetooth so you can stream from your phone if you want to as well (I'll link it right here so you can see it). I only set the amplifier up to half volume and it fills the entire room. I thought it was a miracle how I was seeing all of these huge ass home systems and then I get this little tiny ant of an amplifier and it does just as well.
     

    Now, onto speakers. You should think about the speakers the same way as I described the amp. The biggest, most ultra high-end stuff is just not worth it when you're starting out. I use Micca MB42 Bookshelf Speakers, which are amazing (the link is here). It's also $60 on Amazon, so you'll be saving money there, too. Oh, and you'll need speaker wire, which is $11 on Amazon as well.
     

    The total amount of money I spent on my system was $400 (it's really $399 but I rounded up), including the Audio Technica LP120, the mini amp, and the bookshelf speakers. If you get the LP60, you'd only be spending $200 ($199 but again rounded up). My setup and recommendations aren't the most top-of-the-line stuff, sure, but this is all I can recommend to you as this is all I've ever really used. It sounds great and I wouldn't really change it for anything.
     

    I'm so sorry this is such a long read, but I went through a lot figuring this out the hard way. I got my turntable as a gift along with those speakers, but then found out that I also needed to buy an amp to actually be able to make my whole setup work, and it spawned a two week-long horror show of trying to figure out what kind of amp to get. I feel like getting a turntable or really anything on such a scale as this should be a momentous and memorable occasion to cherish forever, and shouldn't be tainted by having to go through the ringer just to get one missing piece of the puzzle. I am also a music lover and feel your first foray into vinyl shouldn't be associated with high costs but rather being able to experience it for the first time and marveling in its strangely magical quality. It's a great gesture, especially towards an SO.
     

    Now I might be over-exaggerating a bit throughout this whole thing, but I think what you're trying to do is very sweet and I thought it would be good to take it seriously. Also, reading long posts like this can be exhausting, so I thought it'd be easier to get through if I did over-exaggerate and make it a more interesting read. Thanks for reading, and I hope your SO appreciates the gift. :)
u/Elderbrute · 2 pointsr/AMDHelp

It's been about 8 years since I last had this issue (at the time was a 1440p 60fps screen but same issue fundamentally) so really not sure what about these days, back then the adapter ran at around £150 so I ended up not bothering selling the screen on and buying a new one with native DP.

Wish I could be more help but I would be very surprised if that isn't the issue your facing.

something like https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-DVI-Adapter-1920x1200/dp/B00A493CNY?th=1

u/shabbirh · 2 pointsr/MSI_Gaming

The link I gave was a cursory example, but I did specify that it should be an active DP to DVI adapter. But fair point, the one in the link will not be the right one. I would expect that the OP would do his/her own research based on the information provided and not just buy the first one linked (which was linked purely as an example).

Perhaps something like this would have been a more appropriate example - https://smile.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Active-Adapter-Converter-Black/dp/B00A493CNY/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=active+dp+to+dvi+adapter+144hz&qid=1567203271&refinements=p_76%3A419158031&rnid=419157031&rps=1&s=gateway&sr=8-1

But the one above is also but an example of the type of adapter that is needed, but not neccessarily the exact adapter needed.

Hope that helps and indeed clarifies.

Peace <3

u/tmlhalo · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I'm not an expert on display cables but from the looks of it, it seems display port to Dual Link DVI D requires a bit of active conversion for the higher resolutions.

"The DisplayPort LVDS signal protocol is not compatible with DVI or HDMI. However, Dual-mode DisplayPorts are designed to transmit a single-link DVI or HDMI 1.2/1.4 TMDS protocol across the interface through the use of an external passive adapter that selects the desired signal and converts it from 3.3 volts to 5 volts. Analog VGA and dual-link DVI require powered active adapters to convert the protocol and signal levels and do not rely on Dual-Mode. VGA adapters are powered by the DisplayPort connector, while dual-link DVI adapters may rely on an external power source (see Dual-mode).[6]"

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DisplayPort

Seems like the adapter cost almost half the price of the card...

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY

But like Ponky mentioned. There will probably be versions with DVI.

u/Computerknight54 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

No, well yes but you need an active adapter which costs ~$100. https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-DVI-Adapter-Dual-Link/dp/B00A493CNY

Not worth it at that price.

u/cf18 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Sell the monitor, it's obsolete. A DP->DVI adapter that can do > 100hz cost more than $100, almost enough to get you a new 144hz monitor with DP.

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-DVI-Adapter-Dual-Link/dp/B00A493CNY/

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/4Hc48d/dell-s2419hgf-240-1920x1080-144-hz-monitor-s2419hgf

u/mrbubbles2 · 2 pointsr/DIY_tech

Not really. Just don't go crazy with a crazy large gauge. Just eyeballing it, it looks like that's about 18 gauge so you could easily use 16. AmazonBasics 16-Gauge Speaker Wire - 100 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LW0W5Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_evzQzbNN2YY4V

u/jwaterworth · 2 pointsr/vinyl

You probably need something to connect your turntable directly to the speakers. this will work if the speakers are powered, which I think they are. Here is RCA audio to minijack:

http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-MUFMRCA-6-Inch-3-5mm-Female/dp/B00KTHGDCS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1451355348&sr=8-2&keywords=RCA+to+minijack

but it depends on what connectors are on your TT. You may need hte female plugs instead of the male.

As for the receiver/speaker setup, you need to buy speaker wire to connect them.

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0W5Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1451355387&sr=8-3&keywords=speaker+wire

u/johnny5ive · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Looks like this may be your only solution?

u/mistakenotmy · 2 pointsr/buildapc

First, GPU's have outputs. Video devices are listed as 'From' and then 'to', output to input. With these adaptors, direction can matter so searching for the wrong thing can cause buying issues.

So in your case you need DVI-Dual Link inputs for the monitors. You have HDMI and DP outputs. So you need either

HDMI to DVI-Dual Link

or

DP to DVI-Dual Link

The Dual Link makes it harder because it is basically 2 video signals on one cable. It has 6 TMDS pairs instead of HDMI's 3. HDMI went for a higher clock speed, DVI used more lanes. This means HDMI and DVI are only passively compatible up to 1080p60. Then they split and do their own thing. Meaning cheap adaptors are not an option. Unfortunately, HDMI to DVI-Dual Link adaptors don't really exist.

(Don't be fooled by passive ones that say HDMI to DVI dual link, those are only talking about the pins the physical connector has, they will not actually convert the signal as you will need to for 1440p)

DP to DVI Dual Link does exist, however they are not cheap. Here is one from

StarTech:http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY

u/ItchyConstruction · 2 pointsr/nvidia

You need an active DP/DVI adapter if you want more than 60Hz. You can tell the adapter is active if it has an additional USB cable for power.

Something like this.

u/sumthingcool · 2 pointsr/nvidia

You need an active DP to DVI adapter, a passive one won't do 144 and your monitor only has HDMI 1.4 so DP to HDMI isn't an option.

Be careful there are tons of shit adapters that claim they are dual link but are not. You'll need to spend $80 or so for a real one.

https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-Dual-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY

u/computix · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Yes, but you need an (active) DP to DVI dual link adapter. These around $100. Here's an example of one, but there are many others.

There are some much cheaper devices advertised as dual link, but those are fake. They're single link (HDMI) devices.

u/psimwork · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You could get a displayport to DVI-D adapter...

u/ericbm2 · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Of course, you can buy the wires longer or shorter depending on your needs. And the brand doesn’t really matter.

This kind of cable for receiver -> speakers: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LW0W5Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PHcACb67FBW98

This for receiver-> subwoofer: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8GYG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sIcACbEKE23WA

You will need to hook a music/sound source to the receiver. It’s up to you how you want to do that.

u/JohnCryptoRambo · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

The speaker cables can be simple zip cord-

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0W5Y/

This receiver would fit the bill and is about as cheap as I can find from a reputable manufacturer.-

https://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-TX-SR373-Channel-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B06XVGCBZ4/

u/Knobbytires69 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You will have to use the DVI port to the monitor and the displayport to the GPU. Either one of these should work.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Dell-BIZLINK-DisplayPort-Adapter-Powered/dp/B003XYBA72/

​

https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-Dual-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY

u/Copernican · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I used the following setup for a cheap 2.0 system:

Amp: Lepai lp-2020a - $30

Speakers: Micca Covo-S - $40

Speaker cable: Amazon Basic 16 gauge - $10 for 100 ft

I think they sound great for the size and cost, but this set up isn't really going to scream bass!

Nice thing about this is that you'll have components for if you want to upgrade later. You want a 5.1 setup down the road? Well turn those covo-s speakers into your rear channels. Want to just get some bigger speakers later on? Well you'll have an amp that should do fine for a simple set up.


edit: the Lepai amp can be cheaply made. I had to exchange one after 1 month because the knob was wobbling and a channel went out. However the replacement has served me well for over a year now.

edit 2: to get the most of these speakers if you're placing them on your computer desk, you'll need to have them resting on something to slightly angle them up to you. Or put them on stands/mounts closer to ear level.

u/XmentalX · 2 pointsr/techsupport

I have no experience because I haven't justified the cost yet. I have 2 of the same model monitors you have 1 is hooked up through DVI-D the other hdmi so I would love getting them both up to 144hz just to avoid the windows bugs alone.

I did a quick spot check on amazon it looks like even with an active adapter such as this one https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-Dual-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY/ you are limited to 120hz

u/Airwarf · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Ohh you must have the Galaxy MDT version of the 580 GTX. Not a common one. DVI-D cables can plug into DVI-I ports but not the other way around.

To my knowledge DP should work >60Hz at that resolution but that adaptor you linked is a DVI-I port. See the four small pins around the large pin? That's the dead giveaway.

You're not going to like this but this is the adaptor that comes up when I google search for the right port types. I have no idea what this would do to your response time.

u/mikewilzn · 2 pointsr/CherokeeXJ

What's the point of spending that much money on speaker wire as apposed to just buying, for example, Amazon Basics?

u/e4matt · 2 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

not if 144hz matters to you. you need one of these:
https://www.amazon.ca/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Adapter-Converter-DP2DVID2/dp/B00A493CNY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1480357476&sr=8-4&keywords=startech+dvi-d+to+display+port

I've checked ones not from startech and they are all around that price range. Unfortunately.

u/Switchen · 2 pointsr/buildapc

The only way to get 144hz with that monitor given your outputs is to use an ACTIVE displayport to DVI dual-link adapter., unfortunately.

u/Sir0bin · 2 pointsr/hometheater

Yup, that subwoofer cable will work.


 

You can just buy a spool of speaker wire (like this) and that’s all you’ll need, although I recommend getting some banana plugs just to make it easier to unplug stuff if needed, but up to you.

u/Yolo_Swagginson · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Half my stuff is wired up with this

u/GrGoethals · 2 pointsr/audiophile

So you can see the row or red and black connectors on the back of the receiver, those are labeled for the available speaker locations. Standard speaker wire can be used on those as it kinda threads through then screws down tight (banana plug connectors can also be used if purchased). The backs of the speakers have a matching red and black connection that the wire screws into as well. So each speaker will have one red and one black connection.

In my case with this specific setup I am using the amplifier in a bi-amp configuration where I am utilizing the 'Front A' connections for left and right as well as the 'bi-amp' connections. The Klipsch speakers have 2 red and 2 black plugs on the back of them for this purpose. When Bi-amp'ed the speakers are able to use the extra power that another channel may use to give more clarity and over volume.

u/oxygenx_ · 2 pointsr/Alienware

Dual Link DVI (or DVI in general) is a thing of the past. You'll need a special active Displayport to Dual Link DVI adapter like this one: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY

u/isgrimner · 2 pointsr/hometheater

I'm not much more than a newbie myself.

  1. I don't think it matters that you have mixed brands as long as the speakers are compatible with the receiver you choose. I'm thinking along the lines of Ohms and sensitivity. I have my Denon receiver, I'm using Pioneer floor standing speakers and center channel, and am using some old Onkyo surrounds and sub I had from an older setup.

  2. Amazon sells good spools of speaker wire that will work great for you and its good but cheap. I'm sure 16 gauge will be fine for your needs as its thicker than what comes with a lot of speakers.
    https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0W5Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484173113&sr=8-3&keywords=speaker+wire

    I bought banana plugs for my newest speakers and AVR. However my old Onkyo surround speakers have the spring loaded clips style connection. So the banana clips wont work with them. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E0E5CIG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1


u/4wh457 · 2 pointsr/GlobalOffensive

There's no difference, but it really sucks having to lookout for a GPU that has a DVI port when looking to upgrade and very soon there probably wont be any high end GPU's with a DVI port. Adapters only support 60hz unless you get a very expensive active adapter which might support 120hz at best but it could also add input lag and overall just isn't worth it at all.

u/chazmotazz · 2 pointsr/diyaudio

The process is way less complicated than you think.

You didn't mention which model of those speakers you have, but it looks like they all have 1/4" mono inputs. To use those connections you'll need an 1/8" stereo mini plug to dual mono 1/4" plug cable (e.g. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005HGM1D6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1419459816&sr=8-1&dpPl=1&dpID=31EXSYIMpUL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SX200_QL40)

As for you computer outputs, you'll want to use the headphone or L/R channel jack (typically green and labeled with a headphone symbol). Configure your sound mixer software to output 2 channel stereo. There is also a good chance it will default to stereo output with something connected to the stereo output jack.

This is the best explanation I can give without more details about the specific equipment.

u/perfes · 2 pointsr/audiophile

My new JBL 306p mkII have static to them when not playing any audio

I have them hooked up with TRS to 3.5mm to my rear audio io on my computer.

These are the exact ones I got:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HGM1D6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Any recommendations on fixing it? I do have it near some power cords, would that affect it?

u/treetoon · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Benq XL2410T and Benq XL2411Z.

Here's an example of an active adapter, sitting at 113 dollars: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY

Where I live, unless I import, I'd have to pay roughly 180 euro for one of these. That's in comparison to merely 35 euro for the GT 710.

u/MrCarltonBanksIII · 2 pointsr/microphones

How would I connect the TRS 1/4 from the interface to PC. I tried researching it but there isn't much explanation. Would these work?

u/GRboy · 2 pointsr/battlestations

Nah just these.

No point in using TRS since the Origen does not have any balanced TRS outputs

u/ryios · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

While these cables are impressive, they are just cheap knock off's of the original.

You want quality, you go with AudioQuest. Diamond infused HDMI cables are where it's at.

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ

u/irequestnothing · 2 pointsr/audiophile

I'm making an assumption here, but I bet what you've got is a stereo splitter (i.e. for headphones) that is trying to feed a stereo signal to both speakers. Powered monitors usually have a balanced input on them, which uses the same (1/4" TRS) connector as a stereo unbalanced cable. Meaning whats happening here is both speakers are playing the same channel because left and right haven't been separated.

What you need is a breakout (or insert) cable like this. This will separate left and right signals onto two plugs. This is an unbalanced cable, but it really shouldn't matter in this case.

u/Please_Label_NSFW · 2 pointsr/audiophile
u/Dashing_in_the_90s · 2 pointsr/ZReviews

I haven't heard that sub but it appears to be designed to go with the 305s so they should sound great together.
Both the speakers and the sub take trs or xlr in so to connect them up to a PC you would need a stereo 3.5mm to trs converter like [this] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005HGM1D6/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1483256305&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Trs&dpPl=1&dpID=41xj746I2QL&ref=plSrch). That would go from the jack on the back of the motherboard to each speaker with no sub or into the sub inputs then from the sub outputs to the speakers using just straight trs or xlr cables. You would need the same cable for surrounds but you would skip the sub and go straight into the speakers.

u/smuttenDK · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Pfft. Don't buy that cheap garbage. Get one of these

u/vicious_viridian · 2 pointsr/drums

I have the 502 module. Does the 500 module have L/R direct output? If so, I’ve used a dual quarter-inch to single eighth-inch cable going directly from the L/R jacks to the microphone jack in the computer, and it sounds perfect.

If not, the best I could recommend is to maybe buy a better guitar cable, as I don’t know the ins and outs of recording through the headphone jack.

u/YUDoDisReddit · 2 pointsr/GlobalOffensive

It's not the headphones, it's the HDMI cable he uses

u/Ribel · 2 pointsr/nvidia

only 1.5k ? oh cmon...

u/Hemb · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Do you have any equipment already? What outputs do you have on your computer?

If you just have a 3.5mm headphone jack, you can use some cords like this: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6/

It may not work well, depending on how how loud (static-y) your pc is. But it will work.

The next level up would be to get an audio interface; the Scarlett Focusrite is a popular brand for this. This interface hooks up to your PC through USB, and has outputs that are designed for monitors like the 305P.

I'm not sure if you know, but this JBL is an active studio monitor. It's main use is for people mixing music, who want a consistent sound. Some people just use it to listen to music, but many consider passive speakers to be better for home use. Have you looked at your options?

u/MoogleMan3 · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

To go direct to your PC, a 3.5mm to dual ts cable would work. You'd have to control volume either from the back of each speaker or via windows.

To have a hardware volume knob, get something like the jbl nano patch. For that you'd need two xlr cables and a regular 3.5mm stereo audio cable.

u/the9mmsolution · 2 pointsr/synthesizers

I've never had 'general output problems.'

One thing to note, they made the output of the Microgranny "dual mono" so you could plug in headphones and jam on the train or whatever. If you're plugging into audio gear, you need to plug in a 1/8" TRS cable that splits into two TS on the other side, OR a cable that is specifically designed to sum the signals into a single TS. Anything else could potentially short the left and right channels together and give you problems.

Basically you need to use the same kind of cable you would use with a Korg Volca, like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_267_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=X0DVX8ZD0WCRK39S2CEW

OR (my preference)
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-105-inch-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O3F

u/MultiplyTheBear · 2 pointsr/synthesizers

This is a situation where you would want an extra output on your interface. But you can make it work, sort of. Use two of these to get audio to and from your monotron/interface.

The thing is, you need to make sure that you don't send the delayed signal back into the output of your interface, or else you are going to get nasty feedback and kill your ears. So you're not going to be able to listen to it while you record. But I guess you could get a headphone splitter for the output of the montron, and use one for headphones and one to send audio to your interface. It may effect sound quality/volume- I've never tried.

u/cowanrg · 2 pointsr/audiophile

From computer, connect mini-USB cable to back of Fiio E10K. Then from Fiio E10K connect from line-out to back of JBLs (it's a 3.5mm stereo jack on the back of the Fiio E10K, you'll need a cable that goes frmo 3.5mm to quarter inch phone cables, like this.

That's all there is to it!

u/zim2411 · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Technically you only need this cable: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6

The downside is you'll have to rely on your phone for volume control then because the volume is set per speaker and adjusting it manually would be tedious. You can use this in between the phone and speakers if all you need is volume control. https://www.amazon.com/Schiit-Audio-SCH-13-Passive-Preamp/dp/B00K6Q2A4C/

u/jonisaok · 2 pointsr/audio

If you're plugging into the gamepad, you would just need something like this:

Hosa CMP-159 3.5 mm TRS to Dual 1/4 inch TS Stereo Breakout Cable, 10 feet

u/kanemalakos · 2 pointsr/NoStupidQuestions

How about a $13,500 HDMI cable?

u/asplodzor · 2 pointsr/audio

A mixer is the most straightforward way to go. A USB mixer is the same thing as a non-USB mixer (usually), it just has a sound card built into that you can use instead of the computer’s sound card. In your case, since you have two computers to route through the mixer, at least one of them will need to use the normal analog channels regardless since the USB interface can only be used by one computer at a time.

If you decide not to go with a USB mixer, pretty much any mixer than has two “stereo” input channels will work. If you decide to go with a USB mixer, find one that has at least one additional “stereo” input channel aside from the USB input channel.

I would stay away from routing sound through one of the computers. It adds unnecessary complication, and will almost certainly degrade sound quality. The bulk of the audio problem you experienced earlier though was from a line-level and mic-level mismatch. Simply put, mic inputs expect much lower power than line inputs, and line output send way too much power for a mic input. Even the lowest volume level of a line output will overwhelm a mic input. It’s actually more complicate than this, but that’s accurate enough.

Edit: for a dead-simple solution, this will work: https://www.guitarcenter.com/Yamaha/MG06X-6-Channel-Mixer-1391442168077.gc

Along with two of these cables, one for each computer: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HGM1D6/

u/K-LAWN · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

It has a DAC/AMP built in. The DAC converter is better than the DAC on your motherboard. You don’t need the interface though. You can just plug directly from the 3.5mm jack from your PC into each monitor. Using a cable like this. Plug the red into the right TRS speaker input and the white into the left TRS speaker input. An interface is just the optimal way to use the monitors. But it’s much more expensive as you need to buy the interface as well as the cables.

u/St0rmr3v3ng3 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/PM_Poutine · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

That's a cable for peasants. This is the one I recommend.

u/mpelleg459 · 2 pointsr/audiophile

I've always used the more old school route of passive speakers and receivers or separate amp/preamps, so I'm not expert on this, but I think a cable with 2 male 1/4" TS or XLR to a 3.5mm TRS would do it. like this though it appears out of stock right now. If the sound card in your computer isn't great, there are lots of recommendations on here about pretty reasonable DACs to get that could help in that regard.

These are active speakers, meaning they are each powered by an amp in the speaker cabinet. Traditionally, most speakers are passive, so you need an external amp to get any sound out of them. A receiver is just an amp with other features added, to put it in the most simple terms possible.

u/Lokisraven · 2 pointsr/funny

I see yours and raise 12000.

u/shopcat · 2 pointsr/audio

Your question is pretty confusing. Apparently you are using a computer monitor to play your PlayStation on and want to use Yamaha HS-5 studio monitors as speakers?

Yes you can send audio to the computer monitor through the HDMI cable. You don't say which monitor you are using, but apparently it has a 3.5mm output. What i think you need is a stereo 3.5mm to dual 1/4" or XLR cable. This will split the output to a left and right cable you can plug into your speakers. [Something like this] (https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6) I don't think you even need to use the audiobox because the speakers are powered and amplify on their own.

u/xCreamEnte · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I'd start with a pair of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IL3TZSQ/

u/grantd86 · 2 pointsr/diyaudio

I recabled my Grados with one of these by clipping off the 1/4 inch ends and soldering to the drivers in the headphones. There is way more length there than you need which leaves you options and the cable is nice and thick. I used a couple of layers of heat shrink tubing to secure the Y split.

u/pewster · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Hey, check out the JBL LSR305 and 3.5mm TRS to 6.3mm TS cable. Cheers!

u/buildmeupbreakmedown · 2 pointsr/ShittyTechDeals

It gets worse.

u/r0b0d0c · 2 pointsr/politics

You need to get an [AudioQuest Diamond Braided HDMI Cable] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IL3TZSQ/ref=s9_dcacsd_dcoop_bw_c_x_1_w). And get a long one so you can move your printer around. Free shipping on Amazon!

u/dagulesono · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Alright thanks for replying! Would like to clarify that I'm using this only for consuming music or movies on my PC, not producing/editing music. Would you recommend the Solo too in this case?

​

What would be the advantages of getting the DAC you've recommended VS plugging directly into my PC (with Creative® Sound Core 3D chip on motherboard)?? With these cables for example https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6?pldnSite=1

​

Would there be less hissing/noise using external DAC? And in terms of sound quality, does it make a difference?

u/wentzelitis · 2 pointsr/synthesizers

The correct cable 3.5 stereo to dual 1/4 mono.. like this

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6

Then plug one of the 1/4 into your interface. The other end doesn't need to be plugged in since the kick has no stereo features. 3.5 to 3.5 stereo or rca will work as well.

3.5 stereo to one 1/4 mono summed is not correct and can cause issues. this cable is not correct

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-110-3-5mm-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O3D

3.5 to 1/4 trs will not work on mono input devices either. this cable is not correct for mono input devices

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMS-105-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O35

u/AnnoyedNinja · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Why settle for Platinum, when you can get Diamond HDMI Cables?

u/Shaquex · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/earth_the_navigator · 2 pointsr/ableton

Stereo info is coming out of the Volca, so it won't sound the same as if you plugged your headphones into it. What you need is a stereo breakout cable (such as https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6, for a low-quality example). If you only have one audio input then your method works to make two tracks of audio, but it won't sound the same, or as good imo, as recording the Volca in stereo.

u/ChinosandStanSmiths · 2 pointsr/AVexchange

My thoughts exactly...

With $360 you can get
the updated version of these speakers + isolation pads + wires

Or buy some red speakers lol

u/dielawn13 · 2 pointsr/podcasts

For an iPad (or anything with a standard headphones-style 3.5mm output jack) you would need a 3.5mm stereo cable that splits two mono 1/4" plugs. Simply plug them into the Line In L/R plugs on one of the other available channels on your mixer.

You can find this cable on Amazon 3.5 mm TRS to Dual 1/4 inch TS or get one at any electronics store. Guitar Center also carries them.

u/biaret · 2 pointsr/audiophile

I'm using a CMP-159 cable that splits 1/8" TRS to left and right 1/4" TS to the speakers. I can hear a hiss if I bring my ears right up to the tweeter. I'm hoping the 2i2 will eliminate that and also make it easier to switch between computer audio and my turntable (LP-60).

u/triplethej · 2 pointsr/audiophile

I've got a pair of Yamaha HS7 at home and I only use it for listening to music without any studio monitoring purposes, I just like the flat response of it.
So I am currently listening to music in 2 ways:

  1. Connecting the Mac aux output to HS7's unbalanced jack input via CMP-159 cable (link below); which probably uses the shitty built-in soundcard in Mac to do all the DAC conversions.

  2. Connecting the Mac to Logitech Bluetooth Adapter (link below) via Bluetooth then connecting the Logitech Bluetooth Adapter to HS7's unbalanced jack input via CMP-159 cable, which then probably uses the shitty built-in soundcard in the logitech bluetooth adapter to do all the DAC conversions.

    However; to get a better, more clear and balanced (through XLR inputs of HS7's maybe) sound from HS7's, I think I have to use a better soundcard than the built-in Mac or built-in Logitech adapter. Meanwhile, I also want to continue to listen to music via bluetooth.
    So THE QUESTION is, are there any sound cards that has a built-in bluetooth function or is it just impossible/meaningless to use bluetooth if I'm asking for a better quality of sound due to latency, data transmission etc.?

    I am not an audio guy, and this is my first professional setup, so I'd be really glad if you can help me out here. I have found a couple mixers that has a bluetooth function such as Focusrite Scarlett 2i4 but I'm not sure if that's what I'm looking for, or if they're any better than the logitech adapter.

    Yamaha HS7: https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-HS7-100-Watt-Monitor-Black/dp/B00CFOXHGS/ref=sr_1_3?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1486638385&sr=1-3&keywords=yamaha+hs7

    CMP-159: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486638237&sr=8-1&keywords=cmp+159

    Logitech Bluetooth Adapter: https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-980-000910-Bluetooth-Adapter-Streaming/dp/B00IQBSW28/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486638259&sr=8-1&keywords=logitech+bluetooth+audio+adapter
u/RaptorController · 2 pointsr/ZReviews

you only need one http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=pd_bxgy_267_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1MRSZFN3VTTRTHXTX1PW if you are going to use the headphone output on your desktop.

you dont "need" a dac but it will improve the sound.

u/gailson0192 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

They have a green male to 2 green female splitter if that’s what you mean.
They have ones that have red and green female jacks to combine audio and microphone into one black male end.
They have ones that have red and green male ends that split a black female jack.

u/Dodgeballrocks · 2 pointsr/audio

If you need a dual male 1/4" to male stereo 1/8" those cables are super common. If you need a dual male 1/4" to female stereo 1/8" those cables aren't as common but still exist.

You can also easily by the stereo audio cable and each of the connectors you need and do the soldering yourself.

u/oCrimsonxx · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I got a 1/4 TS to 3.5mm cable that I read on another comment to use for my computer

Hosa CMP-159 3.5 mm TRS to Dual 1/4" TS Stereo Breakout Cable, 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cZ8BDbGQCX98S

u/Ballpoint_Life_Form · 2 pointsr/iRacing

I have the same Turtle Beach, Justin, so let me see if I can help you out. The 50x contains a 4 channel plug, so that is ground, left, right, and mic. With some laptops, they include a 4 channel port, like the kind found in most phones. If your laptop has one of these you probably just need to change your input settings on your control panel.

If your laptop doesn't have one of these ports, you can tell because the mic/headphone ports will be separated like this. If that is the case, you can get a splitter so the channels can be accessed separately, something like [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Maeline-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1469219555&sr=8-3&keywords=mic+headphone+splitter) will work.

u/BangsNaughtyBits · 2 pointsr/podcasting

The R16 uses combo jacks which can accept XLR or 1/4" line plugs. The 1/4" plugs coming from consumer equipment should be TS unbalanced, not TRS balanced. Something like this if you want stereo

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6/

or this for mono

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-303-inch-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O3G/

Don't go real cheap with analog cables. It matters less with digital but just make sure it's not bottom tier and has a good rating.

The ATR2100 is a decent mic, but it's the USB/XLR flexibility that gets it flagged as a preferred mic. Nothing wrong with it, but look around at the other options in your price range like the Shure SM58 at $100 or the Blue EnCORE 100. Price varies a lot for these but a two pack plus some kit is $130 here

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Encore-Microphone-Stands-Cables/dp/B01LONG3FM/

The ATR is not bad. Just suggesting options. For the record, I do not own an enCORE 100. I do have an enCORE 300.

!

u/Gamesrock22 · 2 pointsr/AVexchange

Use this to split the boompro's audio and mic connectors https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/

and then if it doesn't reach, use any 3.5mm extension to connect the mic to your PC/soundcard/whatever https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-13787-shielded-Extension/dp/B00007FGU7

u/Rock_Me-Amadeus · 2 pointsr/Beatmatch

Here you go, have a look at this post

https://www.gearslutz.com/board/newbie-audio-engineering-production-question-zone/959088-focusrite-scarlet-2i2-computer-speakers.html

> 1. (preferred) Use the Scarlett 2i2 main outputs on the back panel labeled "Line Outputs (1) Left and (2) Right". Those are balanced TRS outputs, but since you are going into an unbalanced stereo input the correct connection is via a dual 1/4-inch TS to 3.5 mm stereo mini TRS cable. This is sometimes called an "Insert", "Splitter" or "Breakout" cable. Plug into the FPS1500 jack labeled; "Audio Inputs FRONT"

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412796471&sr=8-1&keywords=3.5+mm+stereo+to+dual+1%2F4+inch+TS+cable&tag=pda0ea-20

I've never tried this, so I can't guarantee it works, I'm not an expert in connecting XLR/TRS outputs to things, I'm afraid.

u/starkimpossibility · 2 pointsr/audiophile

> What cables do I need?

A cable like this will do the trick.

> Does it come with packaged with these cables?

Nope.

u/The-guy-behind-u · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

You will need to buy a 3.5mm splitter to use it on pc. You need a cable for your headset and one for the mic to use it on pc.

Here is one

u/maybepanic · 2 pointsr/techsupport

These headphone / mic combinations use a 4 pole jack as opposed to the classical 3 pole audio jack.
I don't know what kind of input you are using but chances are high it is a 3 pole jack.
You could use sth like [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Maeline-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=sr_1_4?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1511010801&sr=1-4&keywords=y+splitter) and plug it in your headphone/mic in jack

u/jackdriper · 2 pointsr/audiophile

You can just use a cable like this to connect those speakers to the Airport Express.

If you want to be able to switch between inputs (such as your Airport and your MacBook/iPhone/whatever), you can get a Schiit Sys and a cable like this to go between the Sys and the JBLs.

You don't really need a Modi or any DAC. The DAC in any of your devices is plenty capable. If you're looking to spend $100 somewhere, add it to your speaker budget.

u/xQcKx · 2 pointsr/headphones

I would get a DAC for it, but to go straight to the computer you can simply get something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6.

As for volume control, I leave the volume on the back at around 12 o clock and just leave it there while just controlling my windows volume.

You can get a volume controller for your speakers that look like this: http://www.tcelectronic.com/level-pilot/ this will need some different cables.

OR you can get a volume controller for you computer audio like this: http://griffintechnology.com/support/powermate

Why not the LSR305's? Bx5's are still a fine choice though. I was satisfied with them until I upgraded.

u/agentsecateur · 2 pointsr/volcas

I have used these for the mono Volcas.

https://www.gear4music.com/G4M/Minijack-Jack-Cable-1m/108P

For the stereo Volcas these worked.

https://www.amazon.ca/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6

The Hosa cables will work but you end up only plugging one of the 1/4 cables in. I found the mono cables to be more tidy.

u/AbysmalVixen · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

You need a splitter like this

I assume your headset only has 1 jack rather than 2.

u/randomguy113377 · 2 pointsr/headphones

If the headphones come with a single cable (TRRS), you will ned a splitter.

Like that:
https://www.amazon.com/Maeline-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00PYZ2BT4

Also you will need an extension cable, since I dont think the fiio and your motherboard-mic-in are as close together as the splitter cable is short.

Other than that: you are good to go!

u/Casper042 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Look at the connector on your Headset.
Does it have 4 rings or only 3? Example


If it has 1 connector, with 4 rings, then this is meant for a cell phone type connector. Most PCs still have separate connectors for Headphones and Microphone.

If your laptop only has 1 connector, or simply supports all 4 rings, then thats why it works there.

You would need an adapter like this to make it work on a standard PC with 2 jacks:
https://smile.amazon.com/Maeline-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00PYZ2BT4

u/Wolfgangeth · 2 pointsr/headphones

3.5mm male to 2 female Y-splitter

Here's one to start off your search.

u/clay_yalc · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You will need need a mic/audio slitter like this

u/Cartossin · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Here's a suggestion: 2x JBL LSR305 MK2; and this cable. Then buy a Chromecast Audio which is about $35. (not available on amazon because they hate google). This will give you wifi connected audio you can cast to from spotify or other sources. I have 2 of these setups in my house; these speakers can play very loud.

u/kichu182 · 2 pointsr/audiophile

They're active speakers, so you don't need an amp - their power comes from a standard plug in the wall. You'll need to buy a 3.5mm to TRS cable. Something like this

u/symbioterabbit · 2 pointsr/headphones

Okay what you could do is use a headphone mic splitter like this (https://www.amazon.com/Maeline-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1497882570&sr=8-4&keywords=headphone+mic+splitter)
Then put the headphones into the amp and the mic into an extender that goes to the mic input on the PC if you're using USB for your amp or if you're using aux for your amp you can plug both your amp and mic into a headphone mic adapter like this (https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-headsets-separate-headphone-microphone/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1497882834&sr=8-6&keywords=headphone+microphone+adapter) that will temporally separate the headphone and mic and plug only the headphones into the amp. I may be misinterpreting what you want to do but I hope this helps

u/The_Kraken_ · 2 pointsr/audio

This cable is what you need for the mixter-to-computer interface.

As for microphone, many streamers use a "Large Diaphram Condenser" microphone. Condenser microphones require what's called "Phantom Power" to power a small circuit board within the mic for it to work. That's the reason that your $20 mic has a power supply.

My recommendation would be to buy something like this Audio Technica mic and get a mixer that has phantom power. This little Mackie board would do the trick. Alternatively, you could buy a "Phantom Power Supply" as a standalone component to provide the power to the mic.

That mic will be more reliable and sound better than the $20 one you picked.

u/MisterMushroom · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Does it have a separate plug for the mic and headphones? If not, you should be able to get a headset splitter to work with it.

Could also be a drivers issue.

u/ANeedForUsername · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Please check this for me. Does the cable for your headphones terminate in a TRRS (yes, TRRS) connection?

Are you using a splitter like this that is meant to split audio and mic channels or are you just using a generic TRS to two TRS splitter?

u/pythonpoole · 2 pointsr/NoStupidQuestions

If your headset carries both the mic and the headphone signal on the same 3.5 mm connector, then all you need is a cheap adapter like this to split the microphone and headphone signals into two separate 3.5 mm connectors for your PC.

u/1point5volts · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

> How is the setup on the surround ones?

For the 6ch (one channel is the subwooker) mode I'm using I just have 3.5mm to rca cables running from my computer to the receiver. For this particular mode it expects all of the set up to be done on the source device. So there's really nothing to do on the receiver except plug everything in to the right places.



IT SOUNDS AMAZING. totally overkill for a desktop set up lol.

u/drdinonaut · 2 pointsr/futurebeatproducers

So this? https://www.amazon.com/30S1-01260-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-Connector/dp/B000I23TTE

I'm not sure I understand what you're looking for if not an adapter, there are adapters that convert rca out to any input that a speaker could take. You don't need to buy a speaker that specifically takes rca input in order to use rca equipment

u/c0rbin9 · 2 pointsr/vintageaudio

Just FYI, you can hook this up to your computer or smartphone using the aux input and a cable like this:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Stereo/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=3.5mm+to+rca&qid=1564516794&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Note, ultimate fidelity would be better with a dedicated DAC to connect computer/phone, but even using the adapter cable it will probably sound better than anything you've heard.

Just so you know you're not limited to playing vinyl records or something, which are fun but require a lot more commitment.

One more thing - this receiver is only going to sound as good as the speakers you connect. That doesn't mean expensive - there are plenty of vintage speakers in the $100-$150 range that will blow you away. Look for brands like EPI, Boston Acoustics, ADS, Dynaco, KLH, Advent, or just search "vintage speakers" on your local Facebook marketplace or Craigslist. This was a luxury item when new, and will offer a refined, sweet sound quality that is difficult to find in new equipment.

If you're space limited, I would recommend some smaller, newer NHT speakers or just using it as a headphone amp, which many people do, see head-fi.org vintage receiver thread.

If you decide to keep it, enjoy the beginning of your journey into high quality audio and more satisfying music listening. A MAC1700 is a rare and lucky find, my foray into vintage audio started similarly with finding my dad's old Sansui G-9000 in our attic.

u/zax9 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

The word "port" just refers to the physical connections. Ports can be either inputs (they take in a signal) or outputs (which send out a signal). You're in luck though, according to the product manual (page 6) linked from the page you just provided the URL to, the ports on the side of the TV are outputs. If you want to use a 3.5mm cable connection (like for computer speakers) then this adapter (or one like it) is what you need.

u/Rivster79 · 2 pointsr/DJs

So your speakers have a 3.5mm MALE coming out of them?

If so, this is what you need:

2 x RCA Male, 1 x 3.5mm Stereo Female, Y-Cable 6-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I23TTE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_xkyKwb16ZG5E4

Are they powered/amplified speakers? Based on this configuration, I'm guessing they are not powered, so I don't think this will work anyway as you are feeding sound out of a controller not an amp/mixer.

u/coherent-rambling · 2 pointsr/diyaudio

By far the easiest thing to do will be to retain the player and feed it sound from your computer using either the optical connection or a simple adapter to the AUX in. If your computer has an optical port, that'll be a bit better and might actually support 5.1 depending on the content you're playing. The analog input will only be 2-channel or 2.1, depending on how the amp works. Still, that'll cover most content on a PC.

That's about all you can do without spending way more money than it's worth.

u/colepanda · 2 pointsr/xboxone

Sure. The audio can be a little tricky but here is what I have. The easiest thing would be if your home theater system or tv accepted optical inputs so that you could use the xbox's built in optical and connect if directly to your tv or home theater system without doing any conversions. If that does not work you have to convert the optical to a 3.5mm connection or a rca audio connection (these are the red and white components next to your dvi connection) . The way to do that is by way of adapter or cords. Like others have stated adapters might give you latency problems. So a cord might prove the better way to go. Ultimately for your connection it looks like you will have to go from optical to 3.5mm to RCA audio. Conversely the newer controllers have a 3.5mm connection built into it. So you would just have to go from 3.5mm to RCA audio.

I'll try to find links but hopefully this gives you a starting point.

Edit

Start with this or {this + this} then convert that signal to RCA with this

-In theory this should work

u/tmwrnj · 2 pointsr/Guitar

The Mackie CR4s are competent, good value monitors.

You can plug your computer speakers into the Duo-Capture using a suitable adapter. If you've got an old hi-fi, you could also use it with this cable.

u/tsdguy · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Depends on the TV. Most TVs have audio out either with Toslink (digital) or RCA (analog). Although I've seen headphones with Toslink they're specialty items so I'm going to assume you need analog.

In that case you'll need this: RCA Stereo to 3.5 Stereo Adapter

This assumes the headphone have the standard 3.5mm mini plug which would be on most devices that plug into phones or MP3 players.

u/APenguinSandwich · 2 pointsr/vinyl

^
I can't seem to edit my post right now (on mobile).
The adaptor should be female like this... http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-6-Inch/dp/B000I23TTE

u/blackjakals · 2 pointsr/audio

The Dayton SUB-1000 here would be much better than the Polk’s you selected.

https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-SUB-1000-10-Inch-Subwoofer/dp/B0063NU3AA

Either amp you selected can be connected to your PC. You just need an RCA to 3.mm cable like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Stereo/dp/B01D5H8JW0

u/TaurusBurger · 2 pointsr/xboxone

I mean there is certainly potential for that?

I don't know how the optical out would convert (especially if you are going wireless) to say analog--then to bluetooth.

From HDMI to your HDTV, I would assume it has red/white out. I just recently bought a new TV that had, per usual, crappy sound. I happened to have a RW to 3.5mm female converter lying around, and I connected a decent pair of PC speakers. They work super well, and put out the right kind of sound depth I need.

I wouldn't be surprised if you could slap a Bluetooth transmitter on the end of that, and it would work? Those converters are only like two bucks on amazon, and they're useful for other things too, so its not like it would be a big hit on the wallet since you already have, I assume, the BT transmitter as well.

EDIT: Just for reference, here is the cord I'm talking about.

http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-6-Inch/dp/B000I23TTE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1420062412&sr=8-2&keywords=RCA+to+3.5+mm+female

u/Kangaroo_Steak · 2 pointsr/headphones

If you have powered monitors, why not just get an RCA > 3.5mm Female adapter and hook the speakers to the Magni 2's pass-through? Set the speakers to near max volume and master control through the magni 2's knob.

PC > modi 2 > magni 2 > headphones

> RCA Line-out > RCA to 3.5mm Female Adapter > powered monitors

Literally this

u/Magiobiwan · 2 pointsr/cableadvice

Something like this? Found that with a quick Google Search for "RCA Male to 1/4 inch Male".

u/StinkySocky · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

From what I can tell, you have an Apple Music subscription, which is the only streaming service that allows you to play music using Siri. In that case, you can buy a Bluetooth receiver, such as this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008AGQMQC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Kgo5AbBDF24K8

A lot of these seem to be made with batteries so they can work in cars, but I see no issue with just leaving it plugged into the charger.

Chromecast audio does not appear to have Bluetooth from what I can tell (although I don't own one, so if someone can say otherwise, please do.)

You could also do what I did and hook up an Amazon Echo Dot to your speakers. You won't be able to use Alexa to control Apple Music, but you can say "Alexa, connect my phone" and then play it over Bluetooth. I bought a used one with zero scratches or anything like that for $30 and I couldn't be happier.

You'll also probably need a 3.5mm to RCA adapter, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Fmo5AbMYS6FKM

Hope this helps, just reply if you have any questions. :)

Edit: also I just noticed the thing in your post about the Charge 3, I have a UE Boom and it wouldn't let me do something like that, so I doubt the charge 3 would either.

u/divinemuffdiver77 · 2 pointsr/Twitch

That was my problem too in the beginning. This may get a little long, but I can definitely help you out.

Elgato has page to help with this issue

I use the original Elgato HD and at first I had a headset with a USB and 3.5mm headphone jack, so I had to make a little jerry rig setup with a splitter and an audio Y cable

But if you are willing to spend some money, I highly recommend getting this headset
Its what I am using now because I can talk to my teammates in game, hear my tv audio, and listen to music or donation goals on my PC since it has a multi media source input.

I hope this helps.

u/J_M · 2 pointsr/hardware

Ok. I understand what you are trying to do and it will be a bit of a pain in the wallet no matter how you slice it.

I can think of 3 ways to go:

  1. Buy a component AV switch and use the video input/outputs for audio:

  • Hard to find one with dual outputs. (expensive)$179.99
  • Would require the use of 12 3.5mm stereo to RCA converters.$1.71 X 12

  1. A USB sound 'card' and KVM would also be expensive but cheaper and a more elegant solution:

  • Attach both speakers and headset to USB sound $70 with splitters $0.36 X 3
  • Attach USB sound card to PCs with USB capable KVM $30

  • A potential problem with this could be issues due to a mismatch in input impedance of the speakers/headset. If a problem arose from this setup omitting the splitters and adding a second USB sound card might provide a solution.

  1. You could try splitting the outputs (using 3 splitters from 2)connected to $0.95 X 3but I would expect the sound quality to suffer and I'm not sure what would happen if both sources were outputting at the same time. Potential for damage to your soundcards. This by far the cheapest solution so it might be worth trying before you decide to proceed further but do proceed with caution.


    As you can see, there really is no magic bullet for what you are trying to do with an analog signal - if your speakers and headphones were capable of digital input this would be much simpler.


u/TemptedTemplar · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

So, the HDMI is going into one of the two HDMI in slots right?

And there isnt any sound?

Then get a 3.5mm cable, stick it in the headphone jack and use a 3.5mm audio to RCA splitter and plug it into the coressponding white/red input for the HDMI slot selected.

u/aderra · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

These will do the trick both in and out.

u/rtdzign · 2 pointsr/neogeo

You can just use a plain headphone to Stereo RCA (Red, White) cable and plug one end to the neo geo and the pair, plug that into the TV. Then you only plug in the yellow cable from the AV out and leave the extra Mono out put hanging.

u/Tzpike05 · 2 pointsr/audiophile

I have a Yamaha RX-V473 receiver and the JBL LSR305 monitors. How can I connect them to get audio out of my monitors while using a PS4?

I recently purchased a cable (link below) but unfortunately it doesn't work as the A/V Out ports on the receiver weren't intended for that kind of connection according to the user manual. Looks like they were meant for output to a video recording device. It appears I MUST connect the monitors to the Speaker ports which accept speaker wire or banana plugs only. I'd love to not buy any more cables but not sure that is possible. Could I strip the insulation off the TS to RCA cable and connect that way?

Hosa CPR-202 Dual 1/4 inch TS to Dual RCA Stereo Interconnect Cable, 6.6 feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O17/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kxmwxbJ4K6B8A

Would this cable work?

HOSA SPEAKER CABLE, 16AWG x2, 1/4" PHONE - BANANA PLUG, 3 ft. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O5L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mKmwxbP6ZD5JN

u/SirCrest_YT · 2 pointsr/ElgatoGaming

You can use the Chat Link on the original HD. But you'll need a 3.5mm to stereo RCA adapter to connect it to the Analog audio inputs of your HD.

https://youtu.be/ZkI4UVzPxzw?t=129

Like this: https://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-6-Inch/dp/B000I23TTE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1446597460&sr=8-3

u/photes384 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Looks like your best bet would be to take the headphone 1/8” out and run that into the Sherwood using an 1/8” male to rca “y” male cable.

AmazonBasics 3.5mm to 2-Male RCA Adapter Audio Stereo Cable - 8 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_336CDbXF2ZXG8

u/AV3Nguyen · 2 pointsr/headphones

You can grab an adapter like this. If you have a line-out port, use that, otherwise just use a normal headphone out jack like on your speakers (The jack on your speakers that you use for headphones is an output since labeling is relative to the device that it's on). Ideally you'd use the one straight out of the motherboard.

The RCA ports on your subwoofer are for inputs, so you could connect the Magni 3's preouts to it.

u/John2Nhoj · 2 pointsr/audio

> I understand the easiest way to do this is by using a 3.5mm to RCA adapter but I don't have one.

Then get one they're inexpensive.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8JW0

u/MathieuLoutre · 2 pointsr/vinyl

The one I use with the same turntable and that's quite cheap (so you can upgrade later) is the Behringer PP400 http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000H2BC4E

Basically, the sound coming out straight from the turntable is going to be very low so you need this to amplify the sound (and ground the turntable using the weird extra cable ending with a U). Then you can connect the output of the preamp to your speakers directly in order to test it (with a cable like this one http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000I23TTE

Depending on what you want to do afterwards you may want to buy an amp or a receiver or even powered speakers but I believe the sidebar has more info regarding this.

u/dvd_sandwich · 2 pointsr/PS4

This should do.
EDIT: Or the one I linked in my other comment, speakers can be plugged directly into that.

u/WaffleMePlease · 2 pointsr/vinyl

That price is for one speaker and not a pair. It's a studio monitor so they have very accurate sound that some people don't like because bad recordings will sound bad. Also you'd also need a cable like this. https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CPR-202-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O17

Edifier makes a wide range of powered speakers that are highly recommended on this sub.

u/sircod · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Here are some amp/DAC recommendations from the sidebar, and here are some from another reviewer on reddit. Since the 305s are powered you don't need an amp, just a standalone DAC. You will also probably need an appropriate cable since most DACs have RCA outputs instead of XLR/TRS you might find on an audio interface.

u/mjconns · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I'll give this route a go, thank you!

u/unowndanger · 2 pointsr/vinyl

Yup, it's USB Type B. To plug from the Pre Amp to the interface, you'd need RCA to 1/4inch cables. I used these to make the connection.

u/ironfixxxer · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Pretty much all motherboards have built in sound. Just plug this into your green headphone jack on the back of the PC and the red/white RCA to your receiver input.

u/Veritas413 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

I highly doubt you used THAT exact adapter.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Digital_Visual_Interface#/media/File:DVI_pinout.svg
You may have used one like it, but a DVI-I to VGA adapter connects the four pins around the plus section to the corresponding analog wires. The adapter you linked doesn't HAVE those four pins, so it can't adapt anything.
There are IDENTICAL adapters that DO work with DVI-I (http://amzn.com/B000067SOH) notice how that one has the four pins that are missing from the one you linked. I would bet decent money that your adapter has those four pins too.

u/SteveTenants · 2 pointsr/vinyl

Ahhhh, I see what you mean. In that case, you should be totally fine if you pick up an RCA to 3.5mm converter, like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1511914603&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=rca+to+3.5mm&psc=1

So if you did pick up an AT LP5, you should be able to switch on the TT preamp, and run that cable straight from the TT to your speakers. I hope that helps! :-)

u/ThaneofJudgement · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I'll condense all my information to this reply. A box like this is what you are looking for. It will take your SPDIF input and convert it to the 3 cable setup you currently have. Those 3 ports on the left will be the green black and orange cables you are using.

Now if you can't find that exact model in germany (with the 3 connectors on the left side that you need) then you can use any converter that takes your SPDIF input and outputs it to those red and white connectors. You can use those connectors with cables like these. That will give you the connectors you need to hook them up to your green black orange cables. The FL, CEN, SUB etc markings underneath each plug represent what channel they are. You use those extra cables you bought and hook them up accordingly into your logitech set.

EDIT: Something like this will work as well. That just eliminates the red/white plugs you dont need. But it has the 3 green/black/orange cables you need. They are marked underneath, just not color coded like your surround sound is. It will work fine.

u/IYellAtVideoGames · 2 pointsr/letsplay

Ok, this solution is a bit tricky, so bear with me.

If you're playing an Xbox 360, here's how the cable output should look normally:

Xbox 360 -> HDMI -> Elgato -> HDMI/USB -> TV/PC

Right?

Well you can leave all of that plugged in, and also plug in this into the Component slot, and then this into the Component input, with your headphones plugged into the 3.5mm jack.

I drew a diagram while figuring this out, so here is that.

I can't seem to find something similar for a Playstation, but I might not be looking for the right things. In any case, if nothing else works, you could always try just buying a cable hub. Every console plugs into it, and it outputs to headphones, the cap card, and the TV.

u/drfine2 · 2 pointsr/cassetteculture

Yes. Take the Denon RCA format jack outputs with this cable going to the mini stereo input on the Altecs. Here's the adapting cable type. You got your right and left and they go into the input of the Altecs.


https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8JW0/


It will sound good, btw

u/stafpaper · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I found a Cord and an adapter, you can get either I'm not sure if it matters.

The cord

The Adapter

The adapter will work with the cord you are already using in your two photos if you don't want to have another cord lying around your house.

u/mr_manalishi · 2 pointsr/audio

In other words.


Turntable -> preamp -> amp/receiver -> speakers

Digital -> amp/receiver -> speakers

Digital to speaker could be as simple as a headphone jack to RCA (like this ). You could also do Bluetooth, airplay, tosslink, etc. all depends on what your digital source is.

u/Amazi0n · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

That's a really flawed argument because companies sell snake oil all the time

u/FreeDirt · 2 pointsr/funny

>Cons: Heavy.

For some reason I cannot stop laughing. Reminds me of this review about RCA-to-3.5mm audio output.

Here's the actual product page.

u/ronnockoch · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Hey

You're looking for one of these two adapters.

DVI to VGA

DVI-D (Dual Link) to VGA

depending on which DVI port you have on your computer.

http://www.amazon.ca/StarTech-DVI-Cable-Adapter-DVIVGAMF/dp/B000067SOH

http://www.amazon.ca/Importer520-Male-DVI-D-Female-Adapter/dp/B007EA48MA

Those are them but you can find them in other places :)

u/sneddo_trainer · 2 pointsr/vinyl

So that speaker system already has an amplifer built into it, and adding an external one will not help. You will however need a phono preamp between the RCA output of the table and the speaker input. So:


RCA from table -> RCA input on phono preamp -> phono preamp -> RCA output from phono preamp -> adapter -> control pod on speaker system.

So you need a phono preamp, and an RCA male to 1/4" TRS female adapter.


That turntable is pretty good for its time/price, though you should probably replace the cartridge and/or stylus.

u/jandk23 · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Well, my scarlett 2i2 only has 1/4 ports, so will i need to get a product like http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CPR202-Dual-Inch/dp/B000068O17 this?

u/OhLookCupcakes · 2 pointsr/wiiu

"4K Hdmi cables from Monster."

That's no good, son. Those aren't virus proof and very prone to leaking. To avoid a costly digital leak you should immediately upgrade. Here this cable should be sufficient.

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

u/jshbckr · 2 pointsr/apple

Any DVI to VGA adaptor will work.

Such as this

u/cqinzx · 2 pointsr/letsplay

I believe Zombait is correct, but it can fixed with a simple converter(here). However, with this you'll also need an RCA to 3.5 adapter.

With this set up, you should be able to get stereo in your headphones.

u/OakFern · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

This will definitely be the cheaper option but there are still some newer stereo receivers with phono inputs. I have an Onkyo TX 8020 and it has a phono input. Looks like all/most of the Onkyo stereo receivers include a phono input.

But yeah OP, check your local Craiglist/Kijiji/whatever, people sell their older receivers for cheap all the time. That will definitely be the cheaper option if you are okay with going used. Receivers tend to age pretty well, just check to make sure it works.

EDIT: pretty much all receivers will have a headphone out on the front. It's often a 6.3 mm, but you can pick up a 3.5 to 6.3 adapter for pretty cheap.

As for aux in, a lot of stereo receivers will only have RCA inputs, but you can also pick up a 3.5 aux to RCA cable for cheap too. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8JW0

u/einmalistkeinmal · 2 pointsr/audiophile

For non-simultaneous playback:

Here's what you could do:
Buy one 3.5mm Stereo Male to Two RCA Male Splitter Cable, and one 2 x RCA Male, 1 x 3.5mm Stereo Female, Y-Cable 6-Inch. Also get a 3-Way Audio Video AV RCA Switch Selector Box Splitter. That all together is $9.82 US.

Connect the xbox to your TV as normal. Use the RCA cable included with the splitter to connect your TV's audio output to the Splitter's Input 1. You don't need to connect the yellow video connection on that cable. Then use a male 3.5mm Stereo to RCA cord to connect your laptop/iphone's headphone jack to the Splitter's Input 2. Plug the 2 x RCA Male, 1 x 3.5mm Stereo Female, Y-Cable 6-Inch cable into the Splitter's Output, and connect your headphones to the 3.5mm female end. You should then easily be able to switch between ipod/laptop and xbox/tv sound feeding to your headphones by adjusting the splitter's output switch. This is a very basic setup, but should achieve what you're going for as long as you didn't want the two inputs playing simultaneously.

For simultaneous playback:

Here's what you could do (I admit this is probably a bit of a wrap around way of doing it, but it was fun to come up with):

Buy:
Two Behringer MICROMIX MX400 4-Channel Mixer, one 3.5mm Stereo Male To 2 RCA Male Cable, one Male RCA to male RCA cable, one male RCA to female 3.5mm cable, six 3.5mm to 2RCA female adapter, and six 1/4 inch to 1/8 inch stereo jack adapters. This setup without shipping and handling costs $75.55 US.

This thing only outputs in mono though, so it doesn't benefit your headphones greatly (only one side will play sound). This is why we're gonna get two of them though, and this is the fun part. Check out this picture: http://i.imgur.com/UPMX5j2.png. It has the steps included with a crude illustration. The benefit of this setup is that you can have the ipod/laptop coming in at a different volume than the tv/xbox. Also has space for two more inputs if your ever have more you want to plug in (or to allow a laptop and ipod to be plugged in at the same time).

I... I think that setup would work.




u/Pawprintjj · 2 pointsr/funny
u/woeltic · 2 pointsr/audiophile

What's the difference between using the headphone output and the preamp output with a cable like this on my Schiit Vali 2 (on a pair of headphones)?

u/DPSXL12 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

I agree. Looks like OP can use the cable in that link to connect the second monitor to the DVI port (the white one next to where the main monitor it attached). With that cord, it will be blue (from monitor) to white (in computer).

Alternatively, if you have an adapter like this lying around (they usually come with a new video card), you can use that with a (blue) VGA cord. Just plug this puppy into the back of the computer next to where your main monitor is attached. Then a (blue) VGA cable from your second monitor will plug into that adapter.

u/BTsBaboonFarm · 2 pointsr/vinyl

I'd encourage you to at least consider other options before pulling the trigger on an LP120. At the price point ($365, assuming CAD, for a refurbished unit) is still too high for a used LP120.

If recording to your computer is something you'd like to do, you can always get something like this if your PC has a line-in/mic port (and if not you can pick up a cheap RCA to USB).

You're going to be paying more for that USB feature on a turntable when you could reasonably pull it off yourself with a cheap accessory or two.

u/MaxwellDumbass · 2 pointsr/CarAV

These aren't highly sought after products. Orion only has a few of those (such as 90s HCCA stuff which were fine, but only really consumed these days for nostalgia). So they are really worth what any oldish used electronics product in unknown condition is worth these days: not much unfortunately.

The good news is they probably still work. Solid-state electronics can be just fine ten or twenty years later. The best way to test them is to hook them up to a charged-up car battery or the 12V output of a computer power supply. Then plug in a phone with a minijack to RCA conversion cable (https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8KO2). Of course you'll have to plug them into a speaker. Even if it's an 8 Ohm home speaker, you can still test them just fine.) And if they don't work, there's a million low-cost replacement options out there these days.

u/Mistah_Blue · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Dude i'd rather buy a console than pay this much for an HDMI cable. Damn thing isn't even virus proof

u/burniemcburn · 2 pointsr/Beatmatch

You need to find a way to hook up the the system using your RCA outs. That might require getting back behind the sound system to swap out the 3.5mm headphone to RCA cable that's already plugged in for a regular RCA to RCA cable. Alternatively, you can snag yourself a cable like this one to go from your controller to the Aux cable of the system.

u/SpinahVieh · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

$3 help you out.
If you want to use your GPU, you always need to plug the cable into the GPU. If you don't, plug it into the MoBo.

u/blueberry-yum-yum · 2 pointsr/PS4
u/jonnywoh · 2 pointsr/windowsphone
u/MHMoose · 2 pointsr/piano

Here is how I can hear both my computer sound and Yamaha P71 sound through my headphones.

  1. I bought this device on Amazon.

  2. I bought this cable on Amazon.

  3. For the cable, the stereo end goes into your keyboard, the two RCA plugs go into the device above.

  4. The device above connects to your computer to a USB port.

  5. Your headphones plug into the device. You can then hear your keyboard and computer at the same time, like if you wanted to play along to a backing track on YouTube or something.

    Hopefully that is helpful. Took me a while to figure out but it works really well.
u/redsharktooth · 2 pointsr/de
u/CoupleTryingGWout · 2 pointsr/hometheater

What do those RCA plugs AUX on the subwoofer do, are they an input or an output? The two amazon things you'll need, the cable you have won't fit with the green one though, it's all males (you'd need one like this instead this But if those are inputs, you're better off just pugging a straight male to male RCA cable

u/cctvcctvcctv · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Get a 3.5mm to RCA cable and wire the green audio jack on your mobo (right column, position 2) to the line-in on your amplifier. Make sure to set your soundcard to output stereo. Done.

Cable: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-iXCC-Shielded-Gold-Plated-Stereo/dp/B019D048XC

You are right about speakers. Just need some speaker wire - strip the ends and hook it up. Your Onkyo manual will cover this. Can get banana plugs if wanting to get fancy or need easy way to connect and disconnect.

u/Praesentius · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Only two left... better go get yours quick!

u/anonymousthefourth · 2 pointsr/EngineeringPorn

I don't know if a $3300 powered one exists, but there is this one for under $7k, which is well below your insane $20k guess. I'd like to see exactly what the $3300 one they're referring to is, it could just be some insanely overpriced mechanical one that nobody buys, like those ridiculous HDMI cables they sell on Amazon.

u/Roppmaster · 2 pointsr/headphones

>Hello, I've not been into hi-fi audio before but since I got hold of some decent pair of headphones I'm interested in beefing them up.

Is volume insufficient from your onboard audio?

>I've heard good things about the Atoms Amp but I'm not sure how to hook it up to my PC, and from what I can tell it does not come with any cables?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019D048XC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_M0kVCbKQ4CHN6

>My motherboard, Strix Z370-E I heard has decent enough onboard sound so I don't need an external dac but it apparently also has an onboard amp that I don't want running through. Would the Atoms bypass it or do I need to disable it somehow?

You don't need to disable your motherboard's op-amp. You'd need a dedicated DAC if you wanted to bypass your onboard audio completely.

u/theninjaseal · 2 pointsr/diyaudio

If you're handy with a soldering iron then you can get this

2 Pack CESS 2.5mm Mono TS unbalanced male plug black cable connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FPRAID6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_u8NkybN6ZCBJV

And any 3.5mm stereo connector to dual RCA, like this

RCA Cable, iXCC 6ft Dual Shielded Gold-Plated 3.5mm Male to 2RCA Male Stereo Audio Y Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019D048XC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_N-NkybWXZVSV8

These things are available everywhere in just about any length and style. They used to be included in all sorts of electronics during the transition period between RCA and eighth inch stereo Jack's.

Anyways-

Cut off the RCA connectors and solder the outside wire (the RCA cable should have one inside the other) to the "sleeve" contact of the 2.5mm connector. Solder the inside wire to the "tip" contact. Repeat for the other side. Now you have made your own cord for like ten bucks and you can repair it easily if something goes wrong.

If not, you can use a little converter for RCA to 2.5mm mono jack, like this. The phono jack end has 3 contacts for some reason but it should work just the same. And you don't have to work with molten metal.

Monoprice 107145 2.5mm Stereo Plug to RCA Jack Adaptor, Gold Plated https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003R6WVDS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2cOkyb3DCE6KQ

u/chdabre · 2 pointsr/somethingimade

just a small adapter or a RCA <> 1/8" cable. They're very common.

u/Pesto_Enthusiast · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

If your headphones use the standard plug, then you need a 2 RCA male 3.5mm female adapter. Here's one with decent reviews from Amazon

u/randomdoohickey · 2 pointsr/Twitch

If you have to ask which you should use between a condenser or dynamic, the answer is cardioid pattern dynamic.

If you're willing to bump up the budget a bit and interested in better headphones, I'd serious look into the combo of the Audio-Technica BPHS1 headset and one of the new "HD" Behringer audio interfaces like the Behringer U-Phoria UMC202HD. This combo will blow the doors of any "1337 gaming" headset.

If you want to go for a traditional arm, the Audio-Technica AT2005USB + Neewer NB-39 combo is a good start without having to bother with an audio interface just yet.

If you do get an audio interface, this will replace the soundcard on your PC and you'll connect your existing PC speakers to the audio interface's output (you'll likely need adapters or converter cables like this or this).

Regardless of your mic situation, a compressor VST plug-in to OBS like ReaComp from the ReaPlugs VST FX Suite should be all you need unless you have a serious background noise problem (OBS's built-in compressor and gate suck ass). Then you can start looking into FIR filters and gates, but I'd only use them if needed.

u/the_blue_wizard · 2 pointsr/audio

Headphone are tiny higher impedance and very light weight. It does not take much power to drive them

Speaker however, are heavy, even small speakers such as you have, and low impedance. You need a separate Amplfier to drive them.

Check out T-Amp on Amazon, they are not very expensive -

Lepai Amps -

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_c_1_6?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=lepai+amplifier&sprefix=Lepai+%2Caps%2C332&crid=N9RCRIMVTZHN

Topping Amps -

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=Topping+amps&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3ATopping+amps

SMSL Amps -

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=SMSL+Amplifiers&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3ASMSL+Amplifiers

Lepai are probably the lowest cost - Lepai LP2020A - $22.25 -

https://www.amazon.com/Lepy-Amplifiers-Component-LP-2020A-Class-D/dp/B01FZKA28Y/

Get a cable like this in whatever length you need, plug the 3.5mm Stereo into the computer, and plug the TWO RCA into the Lepai Amp.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8KO2/

u/currly30 · 2 pointsr/ZReviews

The xDuoo XD-05 is a great portable and desktop amp for the price. It does have a fixed AUX out on the back which is meant for connecting to other amps.

Open this link and scroll to the bottom it will give you a connection diagram.

In order to use the AUX output with an SMSL speaker amp you will need to buy a AUX to RCA cable. Something like This and be using the USB input.

Then all you have to do to run your speakers is turn on and off your Speaker amp. The AUX out on the back is a fixed out so the volume knob on the front doesn't effect the output on the back.

u/Wail_Bait · 2 pointsr/gaming

Yeah, really. Why even bother buying cables that are that cheap? Everyone knows you have to spend at least $1,000.00 for an HDMI cable.

u/QuintonFlynn · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

One of the speakers needs to be plugged into an outlet. That speaker is powered and has a built-in amplifier to drive the speakers. No need for a receiver or amplifier. Just plug directly into your source.

You will also need a cable like this to go from RCA to the stereo inputs.

u/create-a-useraccount · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

If you're connecting your computer to these speakers, you will probably need a 3.5mm to RCA cable like this: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-iXCC-Shielded-Gold-Plated-Stereo/dp/B019D048XC

Connect computer to amplifier. Connect speaker wires from amp to speakers (provided with the speakers) and you're set.

u/Smith6612 · 2 pointsr/talesfromtechsupport

To think Monster cables are bad, check this cable out: http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-2m-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M

Oddly enough Best Buy also seems to carry these in my area, and they sell for $350. Yay for Monoprice! They get you on the shipping sometimes but the cables are dirt cheap and work great.

u/Fawawa · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Use something like this to hook the computer to the sub. Then use this in the subwoofers left and right rca to split the signal and use another rca cable up the pb42x and use your computer volume as you have been to control it. You would just set the sub up one time and leave it you wont have to mess with the gain as long as you dont mess with the pb42x gain.

If you watch this video at 3:35 it goes over what im talking about sorta
https://youtu.be/kF6s24fpDkk?t=216

u/PastaArt · 2 pointsr/Bitcoin

They need the proper cabling as well.

AudioQuest Diamond 2m (6.56 feet) Braided HDMI Cable

u/wiz0floyd · 2 pointsr/nvidia

You need a better hdmi cable. /s

But really, if you're happy with your set up don't worry about it.

u/CrackAnus · 2 pointsr/audiophile

From your computer to your receiver, you can use a 3.5 mm to RCA cable (almost all PCs and receivers), a digital TOSLINK cable (most PCs and most receivers), or some kind of USB DAC and RCA patch cables. Some receivers can connect directly to your PC using USB or wifi or wired network.

From your receiver to your unpowered speakers (no wall power connection), you would use whatever bare wire cables are currently attached to your speakers or 16 gauge or thicker electrical cable. If you are using powered speakers (with wall power connection), those usually take RCA patch cables, although some have bare wire connectors as well.

u/iffy9096 · 2 pointsr/funny
u/FHRITP-69 · 2 pointsr/gaming
u/altimate · 2 pointsr/audiophile

I don't know. Those audio quest cables seem to change people's lives.

Just look at these reviews!

AudioQuest Diamond 2m (6.56 feet) Braided HDMI Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CT2A2M/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_hY-zub09K6R66

u/kvhdude · 2 pointsr/pics

you mean something like this from amazon?

u/ggfools · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Well, you only have optical audio out, i don't know if your TV's remote controls the volume of this output or not, but hopefully it does. what you need is a DAC for optical audio, something like the Fiio D3 would probably do just fine (and could be powered by one of the USB ports on the TV) then you just need a pair of RCA to TRS cables like this connecting the a5+ would be pretty much the same, just use normal RCA cables instead of RCA to TRS

u/RGB240P · 2 pointsr/crtgaming

I had problems fitting everything into the SCART connector. The monoprice cable is pretty thick in the center with that shielding, there wasn't enough room to cram that cable and the audio cable through that opening. I didn't need these adapters to be very long, my cables already reached, so I ended up using only the unsheiled portions at the end of the cable, removing the thicker middle section. I was able to fit everything in that way.

Soldering to the SCART connector was difficult. It was easy to melt the connector's plastic with the iron. Tinning the SCART pins and the wires helped. I was/am new to soldering and I didn't have flux so I tried without it. I think it would have gone a lot easier with it. I ended up using a lot of solder wick and the solder sucker to redo my work.

You'll also need heatshrink. When you are ready to solder the wires from each color BNC connector you'll need to strip the jacket and expose an inch or so of sheilding. Pull the sheilding away from the inner core and twist it together to form its own wire. Cover this bare wire with heatshrink, leaving only the tip exposed so you can solder it to the proper pin.

Finding faults in the chain was a problem. Everything seemed to work right off the bat, but then I had a console intermittently lose green signal. Trying to figure out where the bad connection was sucked. I had to figure out if it was the RGB mod in the console, the RGB SCART cable, my homemade SCART->BNC input adapter, my homemade BNC->SCART output adapter, or the SCART->XRB-mini adapter. (It was my SCART-BNC input adapter)

Supplies:

6" 4-BNC cable: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=569

Female SCART connectors: http://www.ebay.com/itm/PACK-OF-10-VELLEMAN-SCARTF-21-PIN-SCART-PLUGS-FEMALE-/272430948700?

50ft 3 conductor cable: https://www.monoprice.com/Product?p_id=647

Phoenix Audio Plugs: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Set-of-10-5-pin-3-5mm-Pluggable-Connector-Terminal-Block-Phoenix-Plug-/121223852751?

RCA Y-adapters: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009JFF7A/

3RCA->3BNC cable: http://www.showmecables.com/product/Python-3-BNC-to-3-RCA-Component-Video-Cable-HDTV-6-FT.aspx

RCA->BNC adapter: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=4121

Those last few items were used more with routing YPbPr component video through the Extron.


Diagrams:

http://media.extron.com/download/files/userman/68-349-01__G.pdf

http://www.leadsdirect.co.uk/technical-library/pinouts-wiring-diagrams/scart-wiring/

*edit: formatting

u/social_gamer · 2 pointsr/MyrtleBeach

Still positive feedback without proper use of said law firm would also be just as wrong as negative feedback without proper use. It may become one of those pages that have 4-5 star reviews and the stories are ridiculous.


/r/humorousreviews

u/Anagram-Robot · 2 pointsr/explainlikeimfive

Don't forget your diamond HDMI cable for Surface Silver Conductors and Dielectric-Bias Audio.

u/Ro5ario · 2 pointsr/wiiu
u/ben1481 · 2 pointsr/hometheater

Isn't Audioquest that shitty company who tries to sell $1500 6ft HDMI cables?

yup, that's them

u/herpyderp99 · 2 pointsr/britishproblems

This one doesn’t even come with next day delivery!

u/19eddiedean19 · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Yea, I don't have it yet but plan on buying this [active speaker kit](JBL ACTPACK Active Studio Monitor Enhancement Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I1DGYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_AurUAbTBTTHKG)
Its a pain to reach behind to adjust the volume on each speaker but you don't do it as often as you'd think. This is more to encourage the wife to use the system easier.

Unless you don't think the cable is going to reach you should be able to plug the turntable straight into the switch I believe.

I used these [ cables ] (Hosa CPR-202 Dual 1/4 inch TS to Dual RCA Stereo Interconnect Cable, 6.6 feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O17/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JyrUAbKADDQYB) to connect the switch output to each of the speakers

And you would need [this cable](AmazonBasics 3.5mm to 2-Male RCA Adapter Cable - 8 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8ArUAbK3ZZJAT) for the Chromecast.

u/Matt3989 · 2 pointsr/hometheater

Just go with the diamonds https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CT2A2M/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_K2riybVQWNBMQ

But really, HDMI is digital, so it's broadcasting all 1s and 0s. There's no degradation in quality possible, it either works or it doesn't.

u/O_Apples · 2 pointsr/gaming

Sounds like a fake Amazon review... Oh god, how many of those "joke reviews" may have in fact been the real deal? I better get me a few AudioQuest Diamond HDMI Cables.

u/timmaywi · 2 pointsr/Addons4Kodi

Maybe it comes with AudioQuest Diamond cables

u/travvvvvvv · 2 pointsr/guitarpedals

You could get a RCA>1/4" or RCA>XLR adaptor and use it with pretty much any USB interface.

u/MagnaMike · 2 pointsr/headphones

Amazon

I just used in game audio options to adjust volume.

Edit: This would likely work too.

u/jimbonics · 2 pointsr/xboxone

Fuck that. It's on Amazon for $400 less! Ratuken is a ripoff!!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CT2A2M

u/praystationfoh · 2 pointsr/playstation

AV output under Audio Output settings.

Get one of these http://www.amazon.com/Manhattan-inches-Stereo-Splitter-3-5mm-Adapter/dp/B0009JFF7A

enjoy a mess of cables.


maybe there's a USB headset. (never did any research myself)

u/Arab_Dictator · 2 pointsr/technology

What a great deal, almost $500 less than Amazon!

u/demevalos · 2 pointsr/headphones

there's a "line out" 3.5mm output on the back of the fiio, you just get a set of 3.5mm to RCA cables and put the RCA side into the back of the Magni.

The line out bypasses the amp section of the fiio entirely and just uses the dac portion

u/NolanRoss · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You are supposed to plug you monitor into your video card, not your motherboard. The plug on the motherboard is there only for if you don't have a videocard. You shouldn't use it at all.

You need to have one monitor plugged in to one port so cancel that amazon order.

VGA is obsolete so you shouldn't be using that either. The 270x doesn't even have a VGA port on it. You will need 2 DVI cables and if your monitors are really old and only have VGA ports, you will need 2 DVI-->VGA adapters.

u/Elmer-Eugene · 2 pointsr/TIdaL

I already said this on another post, BUT if you ask me, for the money and build quality you can't beat Schiit Audio.

Pick up a MAGNI "HEADPHONE AMP AND PREAMP" for $99, a MODI "DAC" for $99 - $249 for the multibit version. So between $198-and $348 you can have an outstanding smi-portable DAC and Headphone/Preamp.

You will need a set of RCA cables to connect the DAC to the Headphone amp. As for connecting your smartphone you will need this USB 2.0 OTG Cable On The Go Adapter and then you will then need to connect that to a USB A-B Cable. Plug the "B" end of the USB A-B cable into the Dac. Additionally you could have skipped the DAC altogether and ran a RCA-to-3.5 cable right into the back of the headphone amp. But if you are aiming to take advantage of the HiFi/master audio I would recommend you use the DAC method. Connecting your laptop is just as easy and you can just run the USB A-B cable into the DAC. Or, if your computer has an optical audio output you could use a Toslink cable to connect direct into the DAC.

your all set man. get after it.

u/lore_wrecker · 2 pointsr/cassetteculture

On the back of the deck, there should be two RCA connectors labeled Input, and two RCA connectors labeled Output. Or something similar. To record from your phone, you'll need an auxiliary to RCA connector, something like this. Plug the auxiliary into your phone, and plug the RCA connectors into the Input section on the deck. That should do it.

u/lsorah0001 · 2 pointsr/howto

I have a set of Logitech speakers as well with this set-up. Search eBay for USB 5.1 and you'll find what you need to use it with a computer that plugs into a standard USB port. If you are using an iPod or other similar device, you can use the green plug and it work great as stereo speakers (some can combine front and rear to get a "surround" sound, YMMV.) If you are using it for your TV/video game, you'll need an RCA to 3.5mm converter...which has also been posted in this thread...hope this helps!

u/JoeyTriforce · 2 pointsr/wii

My headphones have adjustable volume. How would that compare to something like this though? https://www.amazon.com/Eeejumpe-inches-Stereo-Splitter-3-5mm-Adapter/dp/B0009JFF7A/ref=pd_rhf_dp_p_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=P2G1M8GC9K6E6WTK4MJC

Edit: Actually, scratch that. I'd prefer not having to keep switching the audio cables from the TV to headphones, so the Wii2HDMI converter with headphones that include an adjustable dial seems like the best solution. Appreciate the help!

u/blueman541 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Does your monitor only support VGA cable?

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-DVI-Cable-Adapter-DVIVGAMF/dp/B000067SOH

Use that adapter on your VGA cable, then insert into the DVI port of the motherboard.

u/dishayu · 2 pointsr/singapore

You absolutely must buy this.

Or just the 5$ cable in the nearest shop. Cables don't influence quality of digital signals. :)

u/jasrajsokhi · 2 pointsr/podcasts

Another way is to simply bypass your interface. I have the xenyx 1202 (not fx ) and this is the method I use. You can split the single jack on your computer using this cable ( https://www.amazon.com/Kingtop-Adapter-Tablet-Headsets-Version/dp/B01I3A47I4/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=y+splitter+head+mic&qid=1559124001&s=gateway&sr=8-6 )


And then use a RCA cable ( https://www.amazon.com/Cable-iXCC-Shielded-Gold-Plated-Stereo/dp/B019D048XC/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=rca+cable&qid=1559123966&s=gateway&sr=8-8 ) to connect the RCA out from your mixer to mic in port of the splitter cable into your mac.

u/sidd230 · 2 pointsr/AskReddit

Yeah they are way too overpriced,Try these.

u/SloppyCandy · 2 pointsr/buildapc

The simple solution is get a 3.5 to RCA cable and plug it in to the headphone/speaker jack of your motherboard. The RCA end (red and white) goes into the amp.

Most people with that headset/amp chose to go with an external DAC (Modi 2 as an example), which would connect to the pc via USB, then to the amp via RCA (red and white) connections.

u/TraxRL · 2 pointsr/RocketLeague

Since your pc has a separate jack plug for mic and audio and your headset probably only has one for both, you will need a splitter to separate the mic and audio channel from your headset to make both work with your pc. You will need something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Maeline-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=br_lf_m_ceuun2nq7wpk4e9_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&s=wireless

u/WestonParish · 2 pointsr/Beatmatch

Yep, that will be where you manage your library, and export to USB stick. Unless you get a simple 4 or 5 port ethernet switch, then that is how you will get tracks to your XDJs, which is totally fine and does not take that long (depending on the amount of tracks you are exporting). Here is an interactive guide to Rekordbox for PC

Here is the link for Audacity. You can install this, run an RCA to 3.5mm cable from your Record Out jack on the back of your 900, to the Line-In port on the back of your PC like I mentioned above and you should be able to record to a mix and export to WAV file easily

u/G7Franubis · 2 pointsr/razer
u/podboi · 2 pointsr/buildapc

IIRC all PSU packages should include that out the box, unless you bought it used? That's shitty of the seller if that's the case...

Anyway if you don't want to RMA it or request one from EVGA you can find those for cheap on amazon. Assuming that is what you need.

u/n0b0dy_impor4nt · 2 pointsr/samsung

that aux in appears to just need an 3.5mm to RCA jack

https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Male-2-Male-Adapter/dp/B004YEBK66

note: that adapter is stupid expensive but you get the idea.

I have no idea how that equipment works, but Aux In is usually simple enough.

u/MadAsAHat · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CPR202-Dual-Inch/dp/B000068O17/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1381808216&sr=8-2&keywords=1%2F4%22+to+RCA

It's just that easy, you'll want to make sure your gain structure is soft on the receive and heavier on the send, since these units tend to be a bit noisy.

u/Thatoneguythatsnot · 2 pointsr/techsupport

http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Male-2-Male-Adapter/dp/B004YEBK66

I wish computers worked like they were supposed to all the time. Corrupt drivers cause all kinds of weird issues. If you haven't been able to completely remove the driver and any remnants from the registry/ file system and then install it again your best bet is probably going to be a stand alone audio cable.

u/reesewadleymusic · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Hm, I'm not sure why the RCA-RCA connection wouldn't work in this case, but I'm not super experienced with hifi amps.

Other things you could try:

  • headphone out -> Aux input
  • balanced 6.3 outputs -> 2x TRS to TRRS cable -> Aux input

  • 6.3 outputs -> 6.3 to RCA cable -> RCA input

  • RCA outputs -> RCA to 3.5mm TRRS -> Aux

    basically I have no idea why it doesn't work as is, but maybe one of these things will? The most basic thing I would troubleshoot is that you can get output from the RCA outs on your 2i4 at all
u/so-very-very-tired · 2 pointsr/vinyl

The back of the LP-60 should have an RCA out. In which case, you probably want one of these cables: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8KO2

u/TophatMcMonocle · 2 pointsr/vinyl

If your TT has built in stereo phono cables, use this adapter to plug it into your speakers. http://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-3-5mm-Male-Female-inch/dp/B0018MI5F6

If there are no built in cables and instead just two phono jacks on the back, use this. http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Stereo-Design-accommodates-SmartPhones/dp/B004YEBK66

Your TT has a built in phono preamp, so make sure that's switched on and you should be good to go.

u/hero_of_ages · 2 pointsr/windows

You need to get the splitter for it, because you got the mobile edition of the headpiece. Your motherboard's audio jacks are not combination mono in/stereo out like you see on cellphones and some laptops, and that is the reason you are getting those symptoms. If you want to test it more, I bet if you plug the headset back into the mic (pink jack) and speak into the earpiece, your pc will pick up some input.


[Here's what you want (or something similar)](https://www.amazon.com/Maeline-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00PYZ2BT4
)

u/Shaomoki · 2 pointsr/ifyoulikeblank

Depending on your budget it could go from $60 for a pair of decent speakers, upwards to $1000 for a single speaker.

I would start here This is a good guide to speakers.

The speakers that I personally use are the Dayton Audio B652

As for a mini amp, then I use an Audioengine N22 for my stuff, which I connect from the laptop using a simple 3.5mm to Stereo RCA cable

If you're going directly to a subwoofer (which is probably a better option since you're also watching movies and you don't need the extra amp) then you'd still need that same y cable, but you'd be wiring it differently. The best sub that matches price with capability is probably made by Hsuresearch, Dayton Audio, and SVS.

There are many more brands out there, and it goes well into a deep hole.

u/gimptactics · 2 pointsr/gaming

Yep, you can either connect directly with the optical or RCA out ports on the adaptor, or you get an RCA to 3.5mm adaptor for headphones or stereo speakers.

You'll need female to female, I think, like this http://www.amazon.com/Stereo-Splitter-3-5mm-Audio-Adapter/dp/B0009JFF7A/

u/MonkeysFrolicking · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I had a similar issue with my monitor.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00005113L/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Buy that or use an extension cord.