There's no magic about getting a working headset, you just need to realize that there are two TRRS audio plug pinouts, and Microsoft chose the far less common one.

The controller has the less frequently used OMTP, while the adapter uses CTIA. Presumably to push people to buy an adapter or Microsoft headset.

You can get an CTIA -> OMTP adapter for a few bucks.. If a headset isn't working when directly plugged into the controller you need one of those. If you want to use a 2 x 3-pole headset (e.g. your normal headphone plug/mic plug PC headset) with an xbone you need one of these.

Edit:

The straight converters are harder to find (that one sold out pretty quickly after this was posted, you can find a few others with no reviews or 1 bad one), but the PC headset adapter ones are aplenty. Just look at the questions/answers to be sure. There will always be questions about XB1 if the name isnt clear.

Be careful with terminology. You don't need a converter. You need a displayport to HDMI cable. No adapter or anything. They might use the word adapter in the description for the cable, but a converter is a different thing and usually used to go from HDMI out to DisplayPort in.

​

Something like this should be fine.

​

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-HDMI-Cable-Feet/dp/B015OW3M1W/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=displayport+to+hdmi&qid=1564670599&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Thanks. I don't have a link but I'll try to explain step by step.

1. In the past I had various audio inputs fed to my receiver and video inputs fed to my TV. The problem was keeping things in sync when you changed inputs. I knew that the DVD player was Input 1 on the TV and Aux 2 on the receiver but no one else in the family could ever remember the combinations.
   
   
2. With HDMI carrying both audio and video the obvious answer was to feed it all to the TV and then take one digital audio output from there to the receiver. This worked great. When you switch sources on the TV you don't need to switch anything on the receiver. Everybody was happy.
   
   
3. But now I wanted to listen to Pandora (or iTunes, or the hockey game, ...) outside on my deck and driveway. My receiver can handle my 5.1 surround in the family room but does not have another set of speaker outputs. Even if it did how could I control the volumes separately? I found that my receiver does have an analog audio output that can be fed to a recording device BUT this output does not work when the input to the receiver is digital. This is true for most receivers on the market unless you spend $$$$ to get a high-end one with multiple zone capability.
   
   
4. I eventually realized I would have to get the signal for the outdoor speakers AHEAD of my receiver. My TV, like most on the market today, does not have multiple sets of audio outputs. The only choice for me was to take the digital fiber optic one I was already sending to the receiver and split it. I read a lot of reviews and decided to go for a powered splitter that actually recreates the signal. Passive ones that split the light signal using a mirror/prism are cheaper but can be unreliable. I bought this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B1UWSR6/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and it works perfectly.
   
   
5. So now I have an SPDIF out from that device into my receiver and another one to use for my outdoor audio. These amps however do not have an SPDIF input as they do not contain a digital-to-analog converter. So I had to convert from SPDIF to RCA analog. I went with this converter: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008EPW7O0/ref=oh_details_o04_s01_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
6. But now I have a single set of RCA ouputs and two amps that need inputs. RCA is easy to split so I bought these cheap cables to do it: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000I94FAE/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
7. From there the RCA is fed into two of the amps that OP shows above. From there it goes into 100' of high grade speaker cable: http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10239&cs_id=1023902&p_id=2820&seq=1&format=2 and then into these Polk speakers (one set for the deck and another for the driveway): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00378KMEG/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   So the setup is: TV inputs --> TV --> digital splitter --> D to A converter --> RCA splitter cables --> these two amps --> Polk speakers. It sounds surprisingly good with strong bass and crisp highs. I can control all three volumes independently (family room receiver and each of these amps). I just used it for a big party we had Saturday night (80+ people). I had a playlist in iTunes on my computer served up by my Plex server. This was then picked up by my Roku 3 attached to the TV. It worked flawlessly.

RCA piggyback

https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Piggyback-Cable-Male-Female/dp/B000I94FAE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1536714638&sr=8-3&keywords=piggyback+rca

Good alternative if you want to be the very best

Note: Also Vesa Certified

YUV420 is the same as RGB, just with the color compressed down to 1080p. Our eyes are less sensitive to color information than they are to luminance, so the difference is typically imperceptible. And the only difference would be a very light color bleed around the edges.

If you see a significant difference in the way colors display, then that's your TV's settings, not the ps4.

That flashing means your HDMI cable doesn't have enough bandwidth for 4K60 in RGB and is dropping the signal. If you buy a premium certified cable (the Pro's included cable is not certified) it should solve that. The cheapest one on the market is from Monoprice:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GCGKI3O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TowlzbT6Q1H99

But any cable with that specific QR code (to prove certification) will work.

These are the definitive budget studio monitors over on /r/BudgetAudiophile. I have the lsr308s and wish I got these. The 308s are fuckin huge! But they have the same sound as the 305s just with... more power. I keep my 308s dialed at 4/10 volume and then adjust with my ampdac.

Don't use adapter cables for these. Use high quality direct cables because I got nasty hiss/feedback when using adapters and even direct cables that were cheap. I believe I ended up with these and they're decent. I still get some feedback but that seems dependant on which power socket I used. Using a crowded socket or having my cables run near a bunch of other cables seems to make it worse.

Certified Premium High Speed HDMI Cable - $6.89

The best part is, they aren't expensive. I use these and they work perfectly with Dolby Vision and HDR10.

I don't think that's what they recommend doing over at /r/cordcutters/

This will get you back up and running: https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-Subwoofer-Cable-Feet/dp/B003FVYXY0

You cannot run 720p (or 1080p) through a composite signal. You need a component cable (red,blue,green w/red & white audio):

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Composite_video

https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Xbox-360-Component-HD-Cable/dp/B000B6MLPU

Unfortunately it appears your television doesn't have component inputs.

You could try something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Portta-N3CVRHP-Component-Converter-support/dp/B003VJ9RP6 but at this point you're approaching the cost of a more recent secondhand 360 with hdmi.

These should be everything you need and I've tested them with just the Oculus and they work perfectly:

• HDMI http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI
  
• USB http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U
  
  You could get a 2-pack of the USB extender which may work with the camera as well.

Here's the items I purchased to extend the headset 10 feet.

Power cable- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FT9VW0O/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

HDMI- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JJ517VI/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C7SA21U/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also went with a 1/2" braided sleeve to hold them all together. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ZATN3WI/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1



Edit: Including like where I got my info originally. https://www.reddit.com/r/Vive/comments/4eiqda/10ft_extension_cables_after_the_breakout_box/?sort=confidence

I’ve found these added a lot of breath and instrument separation, as well as being very dynamic.^/s

My go-20 for a $20 setup would be this:

Micca MB42x

Lepy amplifier

Some speaker wire

An RCA cable to hook it up.

That would be a great little system, especially if he plans on upgrading it in the future.

USB: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

HDMI: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Both work just fine. HDMI cable is a little thick & stiff, but remember this is the section closest to your computer & doesn't get lifted/moved often (like the light cable that goes to your head).

> Do I need an amp to drive the speakers or will the DAC/pre-amp on the HDP suffice?

No. You can connect the HDP directly to either pair of speakers, as they are both powered (or active, if you prefer that word). In the case of the AV40's, you need a standard RCA cable of any suitable length, like these

In the case of the BX5 D2, the cable you need is an RCA to 1/4 inch TS.

Also, for speakers: I have owned the AV40's, and currently own the BX5's. Go with the latter, and if you have a bigger budget, you may want to consider the Emotiva AirMotiv 4 or 5.

> They're "bi-amplified" no idea what that means.

It simply means that there are two amplifiers inside each speaker - one for driving the woofer, and another for driving the tweeter - it has no practical implications - the way you connect it is just the same as with any other powered speaker.

Edit: Not sure if these support 144hz properly, but works for 60hz. If anyone knows, please chime in.

Edit2: After some research, you need an active adapter, which are very pricey for proper 144hz output.

https://www.amazon.com/BuyCheapCables%C2%AE-Plated-Quality-DisplayPort-DVI-D/dp/B00H8CAOYK/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1466162692&sr=1-3&keywords=dual+dvi+to+displayport

Refurbished Yamaha RX-V473B 5.1 Receiver $299.95 (Free Shipping)

Monoprice Premium 5.1-Ch Home Theater System ~$270.00 w/ shipping

Monoprice speaker stand pair $15.01 (included shipping above)

100ft AmazonBasics 16-gauge speaker wire $9.43

15ft RCA Cable $9.99


Total = $604.38

I bought this one for my 240hz, to replace the OEM one that was failing.

It's certified.

"fat ps3 circa 2004"

You mean 2006.

Sony actually sells their own component-to-AV cable (you sure your PS3 didn't come with RCA cables instead of component?) and it's rated to go all the way up to 1080i so you can use Component for HD.


Have a read: http://us.playstation.com/ps3/accessories/component-av-cable-ps3.html


Then use something like this to convert Component to HDMI if your TV doesn't have Component. It's finicky but it should work.

http://www.amazon.com/component-YPbPr-HDMI-converter-v1-3/dp/B003VJ9RP6


EDIT:I meant component-to-AV not component-to-HDMI. Also added info if TV doesnt have component connectors (which all should unless it's a PC monitor).

In a forum post on Oculus quite some time ago cyber recommended the following pair which are in use at Oculus:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I can confirm they work for me for a 10' extension on the HMD. As a bonus there is now a break away for the cables that is not my motherboard!

You need a RCA to 3.5mm male https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LM2Y2U4/

I'd strongly recommend against that AV2HDMI unit simply because you really want to step past composite video in your video signal game whenever possible. Composite video is prone to a few issues (rainbow artefacts due to poor comb filters, smearing) that hampers video quality simply from the way the signal works (color and grayscale information being sent through the same cable and needs to be sorted out by the receiving device).

For systems that can do component, I've seen this being recommended:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VJ9RP6

It reportedly doesn't scale the video signal or alter it in any meaningful way, only converts it to digital. I have not however used it myself.

You can get component cables for the PS2, Xbox and also technically for the Gamecube, except that cable is exceedingly rare and expensive. Instead I'd recommend looking at an early generation Wii with Gamecube support. For the Wii there is plenty of choice for component cables, as well as different hdmi adapters.

The SNES can do RGB without modding, however the model and revision of the unit will affect quality somewhat. Check this video if interested:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1k2HVB9S8CA&index=4&list=PLTNBVisVMbSRlu45wgWo332Ke64e1o05m

For the NES, in it's stock form composite is the best you're gonna get (unless you get a fancy Japan import that does s-video). If you're interested in modding, there are however both RGB and HDMI mods out now:
http://retrorgb.com/nesrgb.html

If you want to get one box that "does it all", the XRGB Mini/Framemeister is probably your best bet, although it is some money and not perfect.
http://retrogaming.hazard-city.de/framemeister.html

In closing, I'd recommend checking out this site:
http://retrogaming.hazard-city.de/
as well as checking out the videos on this channel to learn more:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLTNBVisVMbSRW6GIFybpOJbjU65T8eFVM
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLTNBVisVMbSRlu45wgWo332Ke64e1o05m

I used to dabble a bit with this, playing my retro systems on an HD TV, in the end I went back to a CRT TV because of easy of use.

Edit:
Depending on what TV you have, one possible solution would simply be to connect your systems to the TV and then route the audio from the TV to the receiver. My old Sony LCD TV turned out to have a great comb filter (although a bit soft picture).

I love it. I personally have the black pair. Be prepared for that cable to break though. Here is a link to a good one just in case. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LTEUDO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There are lots of options. I bought this when i bought my X1. It has served me well.

This is the best option. I would plug audio into a stereo too. The sound plugged into the projector would suck.

A full setup that will record four local mics, max, or two local mics and a Skype caller. A choice of mics.

Behringer UMC404HD interface for $100 (needs a USB cable I think)

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UMC404HD-BEHRINGER-U-PHORIA/dp/B00QHURLHM/

Behringer HA400 headphone amp for $25

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HA400-BEHRINGER-MICROAMP/dp/B000KIPT30/

Needs two TRS 1/4" stereo cables, one for the headphone amp and one for Skype. $10

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CSS-105-Balanced-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068NYF/

Behringer XM1800S three pack of good enough mics for $40

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-XM1800S-BEHRINGER-ULTRAVOICE/dp/B000NJ2TIE/

or a slightly better Behringer XM8500 at $20 each

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Ultravoice-Dynamic-Microphone-Cardioid/dp/B0002KZAKS/

or a very nice Blue enCORE 100 at $60

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Microphones-enCORE-100-Studio-Grade/dp/B002SQJL9U/

A couple 9-foot XLR cables for $12 or vary as you see fit

https://www.amazon.com/2-Pack-Cable-Male-Female-Microphone/dp/B074KYQ66J/

On-Stage, desk stand for $13 (lots of options)

https://www.amazon.com/Stage-DS7200-Adjustable-Microphone-Stand/dp/B0002M3OVI/

You need some RCA to 1/4" TS cables. Technically two though there are reasons up to four and this six pack is cheap at $8. Wish they were shorter.

https://www.amazon.com/GLS-Audio-Patch-Cable-Cords/dp/B0010XVYGA/

or you can get by with one of these.

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CPR-201-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O16/

and my personal favorite, the UCA202 for $30

https://www.amazon.com/BEHRINGER-U-Control-Low-Latency-Interface-Digital/dp/B000KW2YEI/

This gives you full Skype access to the other rig for Two local mics.

!

Are you serious? Thats a subwoofer it only produces low frequencies. You need a set of regular speakers to get full spectrum sound. The picture of the dog makes me wonder if this is a joke about woofers.

Edit: That subwoofer is part of a 5.1 speaker setup and you only have the sub, the other speakers plug into the sub. The only way to get sound from both the tv and the sub is to use a splitter like this and plug into the tv as well as the sub.

> and by saying at the same time i mean that you can swap between them in e.g. windows speaker settings.

not this way. you cant use your pc to control which way down the rca cable a signal will go.

just get a splitter cable. it will output sound to both, just turn off the one youre not using. i used piggyback cables for that http://www.amazon.com/Cblwhl-Female-Piggyback-Audio-Cable/dp/B000I94FAE

edit: also if you insist on a switch there are many rca switches im sure you can find online. if you want something keeping to the theme of the schiit stuff you already have, get the schiit sys as your switch http://schiit.com/products/sys

I have done this on a 2017, which uses the same system and can be swapped out in the same fashion. There are a few caveats that may sway your decision however.

I used the iDatalink Maestro RR with the TO2 harness that allowed a very straight-forward installation with no modification to the factory wiring. This is not where this story ends, however.

The Maestro and harness kits do not come with the adapters required for factory USB, Aux (sort of), AM/FM radio, GPS, Satellite Radio, or any integration for the factory microphone. This last part is what has pained me the most in this whole thing, as I've yet to install the aftermarket microphone or make the attempts necessary to try to get the factory one working. I've got lots of wiring diagrams, but no free time.

I used this Axxess adapter for the factory USB. Fits perfectly, just plug into the radio and the factory connector. Wrap the radio USB end with TESA tape so it doesn't disconnect.

The antenna adapters for GPS and Satellite Radio are available from iDatalink as the ACC-SAT-TO2 kit. They should connect directly to the factory harnesses and then to the new radio, but if they don't work for you this is not required to be a specific iDatalink replacement so you may be able to find another brand that works.

I think I ordered the Metra 40-LX11 for the AM/FM radio antenna but I have yet to actually install it so I'm not 100% positive this will work. It says for select 08 and newer Toyota/Lexus vehicles and most Toyotas are fairly similar when it comes to these connectors. Especially given that the Entune radio available in the Corolla is the model used in other non-Corollas I'd imagine it's more likely to be compatible.

For auxiliary input, you do get the aux connection as RCAs, but you may need to invest in a female RCA to male 3.5mm adapter. Don't bother with the one that has red white AND yellow because it's only wired for red and white (audio). Something like this should work fine.

Oh and for actually installing the radio, just get this dash kit. Don't make my mistake and get the cheaper Metra one, it's not worth it.

I hope this is probably more than enough information to get you on the right track. Feel free to PM me if you have questions!

Do the displayport to HDMI. I believe it carries sound that way.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-HDMI-Cable-Feet/dp/B015OW3M1W

Just get a DisplayPort --> HDMI cable for your monitor so the HDMI port is free for the Rift.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-HDMI-Cable-Feet/dp/B015OW3M1W/

go and get the self powered version of the speakers, the PB42x.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NXAEPDC

hook them up to your TV using an RCA connection

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8P0G/

in your TVs menu, under audio settings, set the audio output to variable. voila, your TV remote controls the volume of the RCA outputs.

your done at around $130-140.

start saving for subwoofer. preferably one with high passed outputs. if you are fine with sticking to 2ch for the foreseeable future, you can skip the receiver.

For the time being, I use an Audeze LCD-2 Classic through a Schiit Lyr 2 and a Schiit Modi 2 Uber. I use Røde Procaster as a mic and Behringer Q502USB as a mixer.

I've listed my recommendations and suggestions below. There's also some info you should know if you want to get more value for your money. I know it's a lot, but I've explained in the least technical way I can and there are many benefits with this over all-in-one "gaming" headsets. Just ask me if you have questions.

Headphones:

Open-back

• AKG K612 Pro, K701, K702, K712 Pro, Q701
  
• Audio-Technica ATH-AD500x, AD700x, AD990x
  
• Beyerdynamic DT880, DT990
  
• Monoprice Monolith M1060
  
• Philips Fidelio X2, SHP9500
  
• Samson SR850
  
• Sennheiser Game One (headset), HD558/HD579, HD598/HD599
  
• Shure SRH1840
  
• Status Audio OB-1
  
• Superlux HD668B, HD681, HD681 EVO
  
  Closed-back
  
  
• AKG K52, K550
  
• Audio Technica ATH-MSR7
  
• Beyerdynamic Custom One Pro Plus, DT770
  
• Monoprice Modern Retro
  
• Sennheiser Game Zero (headset)
  
• Shure SRH940, SRH1540
  
• Status Audio CB-1
  
• Superlux HD662, HD662 EVO, HD669
  
• V-MODA Crossfade M-100
  
  

  
  

  
  I have AKG K52, AKG Q701, Audio-Technica ATH-AD700X, Beyerdynamic DT990 Edition (600 ohms), Philips Fidelio X2, Philips SHP9500, Sennheiser HD598 SR, Superlux HD662 EVO, Superlux HD668B, Superlux HD669 and Superlux HD681 EVO of these headphones, and can recommend them for different needs, preferences and budgets.
  
   
  
  The first thing you should determine is whether you need sound isolation or not.
  
  

• Open-back: the earcups have perforations/openings that allow sound to freely pass through. The sonic benefits with this is generally a larger soundstage and better imaging.
  
  
• Closed-back: the earcups have solid shells that isolate sound from passing through to various extent.
  
   
  
  Next, you should figure out which sound signature you prefer.
  
  
• Balanced/flat/neutral: doesn't over- or under-emphasize the bass or treble. Rolled off sub-bass often gets a pass.
  
• Warm: emphasizes the bass.
  
• Dark: recesses the treble. A headphone can be warm and dark.
  
• Bright: emphasizes the treble.
  
• U-shape: emphasizes the bass and treble a little.
  
• V-shape: emphasizes the bass and treble more than U-shaped.
  
• Mid-forward: the mids are louder than the bass and treble. The mids may be emphasized or the bass and treble may be recessed.
  
  If you want louder rumble, then you want linear or emphasized sub-bass. This is easier to find in closed-back. Open-back typically has rolled off sub-bass with the exception of planar magnetic / orthodynamic headphones. If you come across HE400i, an open-back planar, then note that the revision had a backplate removed and therefore causes a bass roll-off, a larger soundstage and brighter treble than the original.
  
  If you want louder impact, then you want emphasized mid-bass.
  
   
  
  Lastly, you should know what sound characteristics constitute positional audio and pertain to immersion.
  
  
• Soundstage: is produced by the headphone, not the game. It's perceived space and environment of sound. It's the size of the sound field. A small soundstage makes the environment around you sound confined or boxed in. With a large soundstage, the environment sounds much more spatial, open and natural. You can't comprehend it without experiencing it.
  
  
• Imaging: is inherent to the audio content. It's how accurately the locations of sounds/objects are reproduced.
  
  
• Separation: is how you discern individual sounds from a range of overlapping sounds. This is only important for competitive shooters.
  
  

  
  

  
  Regarding virtual surround sound:
  
  You're going to come across a lot of stereo elitism in audio enthusiast forums if you bring up virtual surround sound. Virtual surround sound isn't bullshit or a gimmick. That's coming from someone who generally prefers stereo much more than virtual surround sound and has bought Q701, AD700x, DT990, Fidelio X2, HD598, HD700 and HD800 in pursuit of bigger and better soundstage and imaging to get the same three-dimensional space and environment of sound that virtual surround sound produces.
  
  Virtual Surround sound varies a lot from DSP (digital signal processor) to DSP (CMSS-3D, Dolby Headphone, SBX, etc.) How you perceive it compared to stereo also depends on the soundstage and imaging properties of the headphone and how well games are mixed. No matter how large the soundstage is and how good the imaging is, stereo doesn't sound fully three-dimensional as virtual surround sound at all times. Dialogues and very loud sounds like tanks, jets, trains, bonfires, collapsing buildings, galloping horses, etc. near you tend to sound very intimate and dominate in either ear when you don't face them.
  
  Virtual surround sound has its drawbacks too: it compresses and degrades the sound quality. I find it most noticeable with rain, waterfalls and splashing water; they sound akin to white and pink noise. Subtle details become faint or not audible. When headphones already have decent soundstage, imaging and separation, I find that virtual surround sound diffuses the positional audio and the ability to pick up audio cues. For competitive shooters, I only use stereo.
  
  I've used Dolby Headphone and SBX personally and listened to several others through videos on YouTube, and I prefer SBX from Creative when it comes to sound quality compared to Dolby Headphone and positional audio compared to all of them.
  
   
  
  Mics:
  
  Attachable to headphones
  
  

• Antlion ModMic
  
• Massdrop Minimic
  
• V-MODA BoomPro
  
  Alternatives
  
  
• Audio-Technica AT2020USB
  
• Blue Snowball
  
• Blue Yeti
  
• Neewer Clip on Mini Lapel Microphone
  
• Samson Go
  
• Sony ECMCS3
  
• Zalman ZM-Mic1
  
  

  
  

  
  Sound cards:
  
  

• Astro MixAmp Pro TR
  
• Creative Sound BlasterX G1, Sound BlasterX G5
  
• Turtle Beach Elite Pro TAC
  
  

  
  

  
  Headphone amplifiers and DACs:
  
  

• Audioengine D1 (both)
  
• Audio-gd NFB-11.28 (both)
  
• Creative Sound Blaster X7 (both)
  
• FiiO D3 (DAC)
  
• FX Audio DAC-X6 (both)
  
• Mayflower ARC (both)
  
• Micca OriGen G2 (both)
  
• Schiit Magni 3 (amp), Modi 2 Uber (DAC)
  
• SMSL SD793-II (both)
  
• Topping A30 (amp), D30 (DAC)
  
  

  
  

  
  The PS4/DS4 isn't capable of powering all headphones sufficiently, so you may need a sound card or an amp and a DAC (digital-to-analog converter). Power isn't just impedance dependent, it's also sensitivity dependent, which many new to this hobby overlook.
  
  If a headphone has a low impedance rating and a high sensitivity rating, it will be very easy to drive. If a headphone has a high impedance rating and a high sensitivity rating, it should be easy to drive. If a headphone has a high impedance rating and a low sensitivity rating, it will be hard to drive. If a headphone has a low impedance rating and a low sensitivity rating, it will be very hard to drive.
  
  There's no consensus on where 'high' impedance starts at. I've read/heard anywhere from 50 ohms to 300 ohms. For sensitivity, there are two different measurements used for this: SPL/mW and SPL/V. 100 dB SPL/mW and 110 SPL/V are considered high.
  
  If you don't want to ever deal with this, then I recommend just getting a very powerful sound card or amp, e.g. Creative Sound BlasterX G5 or Schiit Magni 3.
  
  

  
  

  
  Sound cards have an amp and a DAC built in and sacrifice sound quality for features. If you want to connect the headphone and mic (3.5mm mics, not USB mics) to the same source, then you have to use a sound card unless the amp has a separate jack for the mic and officially supports PS4, e.g. Mayflower ARC. Creative Sound Blaster X7's mic jack doesn't work with PS4. If the mic has an own cable and the source has only one jack for the headphone and mic, then you'll have to use a TRRS Y-splitter, also called a 4-pole Y-splitter. It has three black rings on the connector.
  
  If you don't mind the headphone cable and mic cable going different places, then you can connect the headphone to an amp and a DAC, and the mic to the controller, which requires a TRRS Y-splitter in order to work.
  
  USB mics connect directly to the USB port on PS4. You can also use an XLR mic, but they require a mixer. Interfaces don't work with PS4 because they require drivers.
  
  To use an amp, you need a DAC because USB and optical are digital signals and PS4 has no analog outputs. USB DACs may reverse the left and right channels or not work at all, so I have only included DACs that use optical, which is completely reliable. You can use an HDMI-to-optical converter if you have Slim.
  
  To connect a separate amp to a DAC, you need RCA cables.
  
  

  
  

  
  Alternatively, you can use a sound card that merely functions as an audio USB adapter. Since the V-MODA BoomPro connects to the jack on the headphone and replaces the original headphone cable, you'll need to use a Y-splitter, which is included with the BoomPro.
  
  

  
  

  
  If you want to connect the headphone and mic (3.5mm mics, not USB mics) to the controller but want volume and mic controls, you can use either of these:
  
  

• adjustR
  
• Fosmon
  
• Insignia
  
• Lucid Sound AdjustR

I bought this and it works perfectly fine for me.

AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to Female HDMI 2.0 Extension Cable - 10 Feet

MSI Z170A, i5 6600k, RX 480 8GB.

The answer is premium CERTIFIED cables. The ones with the QR code on the packaging. If they dont have the QR code then they arent certified no matter what the package says. I had the same issue and this fixed it. All cable are not created equal. even the exact brand model vary between cables. Premium certified are actually pulled and tested for specifically this.

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Certified-Premium-Speed-Cable/dp/B01GCGKI3O/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1485747255&sr=8-2&keywords=HDMI+premium+certified

You need to look for a HDMI Premium certified cable.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01GCGKI3O/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1497540721&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=hdmi+premium+cable&dpPl=1&dpID=41UMBnDu5kL&ref=plSrch

Useful feedback, I'll mention it to the product people. PS, You can get a 3rd party one, it's just an audio-Y connector like this.

I just bought this monitor a month ago for the same price and I'm loving it. Incredible value, great picture quality.

I'll only add in that the included display port cable didn't work with my setup, so I bought this one on Amazon and it works perfect. Running g-sync on 1080ti.

Yep, I think the PC37x are a fantastic choice. You'll likely need a Y-connector to plug it into your PS4 though.

Had a quick look at Amazon, and the Club 3D CAC-2068 from Amazon.ca is probably your best bet. DisplayPort 1.4, and it has Prime shipping. At 25 bucks, it's not cheap compared to a lot of other cables, but that's the premium you pay for a VESA-certified cable. Should be a rock solid cable for any monitor you throw at it.

There's also the Accell UltraAV but it's only DP 1.2, and the Startech.com Cable has too many negative reviews for me to recommend it.

The JBL LSR305 expects line level inputs via balanced XLR or 1/4" TRS connector.

The SVS SB12-NSD expects line level inputs via stereo RCA connectors, and can pass through line-level and high-pass outputs via stereo RCA connectors.

The AT-LP60 has phono and line outs through stereo RCA connectors.

Your laptop probably has a 1/8" stereo TRS connector.

Working backwards from your JBL, you can use a stereo 1/4" TS to RCA cable to connect the speakers to the line or low-pass RCA outputs on the SVS. Check your JBL manual to ensure that a 1/4" TS cable will not cause issues in its TRS jack. An alternative is to use an RCA to TRS cable.

In order to switch your signal source between your computer and your turntable, you'll need an RCA source selector. You can also use stereo receiver or pre-amplifier with source selection.

In order to get your computer's audio output from its line out to the splitter or receiver, you'll need a 3.5mm to RCA splitter cable. That cable will also work for a Coaxial SPDIF digital signal if you go with a receiver, and both the receiver and computer support Coaxial SPDIF. Your computer and the receiver may also support a SPDIF over TOSLINK, for which you'll need a TOSLINK cable. Note that TOSLINK cables and jacks come in two physically incompatible connectors.

The turntable can plug directly into the source selector.

The above Amazon links are to examples of cables and devices you could use with the relevant connectors. You could spend a lot more or less on each cable or device with different brands, colors, etc.

Any real stereo reciever has red/white inputs.

I assume you have computer speakers.

RiteAV - 3.5mm Male to RCA Stereo Female Adapter Cable (Y-Cable) - 6 inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018MI5F6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_6FLvxb6FDPJMT

Get this, attach it to the ps2 video out and the other side to your computer speaker's aux in.

Get the JDS Labs Atom instead of the Magni. I had a Magni 2 Uber and I prefer the Atom (as long as you don't mind the plastic build).

Modi 3 is fine though. They connect with a pair of RCA cables like these.

Here's what I bought for USB and HDMI, and they work perfectly.

I'm on mobile and too lazy to edit links. Here ya go.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3zhDzbSZCTTRH

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJ517VI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RBhDzb3RJK5NV

Using a free audio program such as Audacity, dub it with this male-to-male cable by going from the device's headphone jack to your computer's line in.

>Is there a better way?

Kinda. There's another way at least. Xbox party chart is available on Windows 10, and you can use a Windows computer as a mixer. Then you can use a headset attached to the computer to both hear Switch audio while running voice chat through the computer.

To do this you'll need an aux cable.

What you would need to do is find the Line-In jack on the back of your computer. Plug one end of the aux cable into the headphone jack on the Switch and the other into the Line-In on your computer

On your computer go to Sound Settings in the Control Panel. You can also use the search bar on your computer and search for "Sound".

In the main Sound settings there's a section for Input where you can choose your Input Device. Choose Line-In there.

Then click on Device Properties right below Input Device

Then click Additional Device Properties on the right

Now we're in Line-In properties, go to the Listen tab and check 'listen to this device'. Click on the drop down labeled "Playback through this device" and set it to your headset.

You may also want to go to the Levels tab and turn up the volume coming from line in.

Press "OK" to close Line-In properties. You should now be hearing both your computer and the Switch audio through the same headset.

So now you can use Discord\Xbox Party\Steam voice chat on the computer and have the audio mixed with the Switch sound.

If you want to listen to the radio while watching the game on the TV, all you need is a radio, patch cable, and Radiodelay on a PC. I've found that the radio broadcasts need to be delayed around 16 seconds to match up with FSWI on DirecTV.

Am I wrong to assume you want to hook the PS5 to a monitor? Just buy an HDMI to display port chord.

DP to HDMI cables are a thing. Example: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-HDMI-Cable-Feet/dp/B015OW3M1W

It seems not all dvi to hdmi adapters will work, the cable matters works for some people at least. There is also the cable matter display port to hdmi adapter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K0UDYLM

You can also try use a HDMI repeater instead of extension https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GHL72XS/

I personally just use the AmazonBasics hdmi on gtx780ti and usb extension connect to the Inateck Superspeed 4 Ports
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH12O5I

I use these usb cables
Cable Matters USB to USB... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

And this hdmi
AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H91KE?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

A simple way, a solution I am using is connecting the piano headphone audio output to your computer audio input with a male to male audio aux cable https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B00NO73MUQ and then set up audio playback in your sound settings https://imgur.com/a/T0Qxbfo.

Now you are able to listen to the piano and computer sound with your default pc audio output. If you set the audio input you used for your piano in discord, your friends can listen to the piano and you can hear their reactions. But because the piano is a different audio input you can't talk to them and you have to switch your audio input back to your mic to talk to them again.

If you get a lot of static noise while the piano is connected it very likely that a ground loop noise isolator will help. (I use a ground loop isolator and I have a roland fp 10. I still get static noise only when the piano is turned off because the power cable is still plugged in. I usually mute the sound in the volume mixer on my pc)

I used this setup to play the audio from my nintendo switch through the pc and listen to both my pc sound(mainly discord while playing smash) and switch sound on my headphones.

To go even further you can install a virtual audio cable https://www.vb-audio.com/Cable/ and route your mic and piano audio through the same audio line and playback this audio source to listen to the piano through your default audio output. A big drawback I noticed is that the music is very delayed this way and you hear your voice delayed which is messing with your brain a lot.

I hope that helped. I'm sure there are other solutions with audio interfaces, audio mixers or with midi. This is just a cheap solution which works for me.

Yes, so the easiest thing you could do to hear both at the same time is connect the headphone jack on the piano to the audio input on your MacBook (depending on year, this might be a separate plug, or it might be the same as the headphone plug). You'd use something like this: https://amzn.com/B00NO73MUQ

The Mac should automatically send the input from the piano to the speakers on your Mac (if it doesn't you may have the output muted, you can change this in the sound system preference on the "input" tab. Make sure the device isn't set to microphone, but to line in, and the output isn't muted at the bottom.)

Now the cool thing is you can play garage band and you should hear both the piano and garage band coming out of the speakers on your Mac. Since you probably don't want to listen to it all through your tiny Mac speakers, you could then plug some nice amplified external speakers in to the headphone jack of your Mac. This should do what you want!

If your monitor has display port, use that and use hdmi for vive. If it does not, you'll need either a hdmi to DP adapter or (preferably) a miniDP to DP cable like this one - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YOQYQWY

You'll have to make sure cable is a high speed one

I use this to connect from DisplayPort on my GPU to the mini DisplayPort on the link box. Works perfect for me.

Rankie Mini DisplayPort to DisplayPort Cable, Mini DP to DP, 4K Ready, Gold Plated, 6 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YOQYQWY/

supports DisplayPort - (standard size) you can buy adapters cheap that will take just about any connector to that type connector.

if your laptop has MiniDP output, this would work perfectly:

https://www.amazon.com/Rankie-DisplayPort-Cable-Ready-Plated/dp/B00YOQYQWY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526911189&sr=8-3&keywords=mini+display+port+to+display+port+cables

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00YOQYQWY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1466311017&sr=8-3&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=rankie+displayport&dpPl=1&dpID=41pz4J-6XoL&ref=plSrch

I know what you meant, since I work in technical support, and deal with customers who don't know what to call things all the time. "I'm adapting DP to HDMI, but I'm not using an adapter, just a cable" is a common one. Most issues arise from misunderstanding that only dongles are adapters, which is why I have to break it down as 'I understand you're saying that you are not using an adapter, what port is the cable plugged into on the computer.... HDMI? .... and on the monitor? .... DP? .... Is there a box on the cable? ... No? ... I found your problem.'

A tiny dongle that has DP and HDMI plugs, that plugs into DP on the computer, and gives a plug for an HDMI to HDMI cable is an adapter. This is what you meant. Not linking a pic, since we're both in agreement these are adapters. Now, so you understand a tiny bit more...

A 2 meter long cable with a DP and HDMI plug on either end (like this) is ALSO an adapter. Sure, no additional breaks, but it adapts DP to HDMI. Would probably help OP with less additional parts to buy. It's still an adapter, and works effectively the same as the dongle, just a bit longer and with some gender variances on ends.

That VERY SAME cable would not work if plugged into a HDMI port on the computer, and DP on a monitor. It requires an active adapter, which does a little conversion from the older HDMI standard to the newer DP standard. In the instance of HDMI-DP, it can draw power from HDMI but still requires a housing for the chipset (like this). Most active adapters have a second cable that plugs into USB or the wall (like this).

Relevant

yeah. depending on what video card you're using, you should be able to get audio out over it as well.

you can get a DisplayPort to HMDI cable from Amazon. look for one that does audio, if you need audio out on the TV.

here's an adapter

here's a cable

DP to hdmi. And i have tried all different brands and they all work good. I love amazon basic cables and their stuff.

​

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-HDMI-Cable-Feet/dp/B015OW3M1W

Alright. Both of your monitors only have HDMI, but your card only has one HDMI port.

So you will need one HDMI to HDMI and one DisplayPort to HDMI.

The video ports you want to use are on the video card, not on the motherboard. Video ports on a motherboard are only using the CPU's built-in GPU, if it has it--this is generally a significantly weaker GPU and not suited for gaming, though it is fine for a secondary monitor and casual web browsing/office PC uses. If you go with a Ryzen 2700x, it doesnt even *have* an integrated gpu, so the ports on the motherboard are totally dead and not used at all.

. The card I linked (and most cards of that performance tier) will have 1 HDMI + 3 or so Displayports, but a HDMI to Displayport cable is dirt cheap, only like $11, so you can plug the HDMI end into your monitor/tablet/whatever and the DVI end into your GPU.

Those are RCA sockets at the bottom. Does your TV have similar RCA inputs for video and audio? If so you can use a cable like this to connect the two. Just plug the white plug into the video out and red into audio out on the VHS at one end, and at the other end, white into video and red into audio in on the TV.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-2-Male-RCA-Audio-Cable/dp/B01D5H8P0G/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=2+rca+to+2+rca+cable&qid=1566621877&s=gateway&sr=8-3

If your tv only has HDMI you can get a RCA to HDMI like this.

https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Cable-Composite-Adapter-3-RCA/dp/B07VRDQXNS/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=2+rca+to+hdmi+cable&qid=1566622021&s=gateway&sprefix=2+rca+to+hdmi+cable&sr=8-3

And a RCA splitter like this

https://www.amazon.com/Hosyl-Splitter-Adapter-Female-Convert/dp/B01EHJ7AUW/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=2+rca+to+1+rca&qid=1566622256&s=gateway&sprefix=2+rca+&sr=8-7

Your VHS only has single channel audio, so you need to plug the red and white plugs into the splitter, then the splitter into audio out. Then plug the yellow into video out and the HDMI into your tv.

>Can I run the powered speaker through that DAC?

yes plug an RCA cable from the back of the DAC to the speaker

>I also don't have optical on my mobo if that affects anything.

no the DAC will also work through USB connection

>Should the 580X with 150Ohm be fine for the X6

I don't know much of anything about headphones, but apparently 150 ohm is still in a territory where portable players "don't need an amp", so I'm guessing you're good

>Is this setup good enough (not good just good enough)) for a budget upgrade from onboard audio and HD 280 + $15 logitech speakers.

again I don't know about headphones but yes the speakers will be a massive upgrade. If your logitech setup had a subwoofer you may have less bass now, but you can add a much better subwoofer than PC speakers have later if need be.

>Do I need to buy speaker wires for the Micca?

no, it comes with some.

The black and white cables are meant to go to the speakers as an output, so plugging them into your controller is doing the opposite of what you want. You need to get an RCA to RCA cable (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8P0G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aIOFzbWX49250) to connect the controller to the input of your subwoofer. The top 2 ports seem to be the inputs from the controller while the bottom 2 are the outputs to the speakers.

Considering these are desktop devices, your iPhone won't be able to connect to the DAC, only to the AMP. The Modi 3 comes with a micro usb cable you can plug into your laptop.

Connecting the DAC to AMP

Connecting iPhone to AMP (headphone jack)

Yup. I run mine with a Marshall Stanmore and no receiver, works great. As long as your speaker is wired or has RCA ports and is powered, you'll be fine.

If you go the RCA route like I did, I recommend upgrading your cables. The ones that come with the RT81 kind of suck. I just got Amazon Basics ones and they're much better.

Amazon link

https://www.amazon.ca/AmazonBasics-Extension-Cable-Male-Female/dp/B00NH12O5I/ref=pd_bxgy_63_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2XD0PP5ZN2VZF7FB2XTB

https://www.amazon.ca/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-Female-Extension-Cable/dp/B01D5H91KE/ref=pd_bxgy_63_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2XD0PP5ZN2VZF7FB2XTB

These two extension cables are what I use to extend my Rift, and they work flawlessly. This is Canadian amazon though so you can prob get them even cheaper on American site or where ever you are from.

1.) Buy some:

• cheap wall/ceiling mounts - https://www.amazon.co.uk/sourcingmap-Metal-Bracket-Security-Camera/dp/B00UVCKZZ2/ref=pd_sim_107_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YWPFSDBSZ19JTXY8JFYZ
  
  
• and extension cables - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• or https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 if you need something longer.
  
  
• Mount sensors to the ceiling.
  
  
• Profit.
  
  You might want to extend Rift's cables. I use:
  
  
• amazon basic 3 meter USB 3.0 extender -
  https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• amazon basic 3 meter HDMI extender - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• cable management system - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B06XT2XLZ5 (thank you, u/Mugendon! - https://www.reddit.com/r/oculus/comments/65ibit/finally_an_out_of_the_box_working_oculus_rift/)
  
  
  2.) My Rift lays on the table. I cover it with a towel (with a moomin on it xD)

I use these cables:

Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Extension Cable in Black 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U

AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to Female HDMI Extension Cable - 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H91KE

And these clips on my basement drop ceiling:
Outus 100 Pack Ceiling Hook for Drop Ceilings https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J7HVOQU

Works well for me so far. Haven't been wrenching on my cables/video card like I was (on occasion) before purchasing them.

These should work https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use them with my lenovo explorer

The following works with the HMD+ with none of the audio screeching I had on the original Samsung. I have 20 hours VR play since the headset arrived from Microsoft last Friday.

Gigabyte X99 G1 USB 3.0 port to:
Cable Matters Active USB 3.0 Extension Cable (USB 3 Extension Cable/USB Extension Cable Male to Female) 16.4 Feet
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMFB5OK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
to
Sabrent 4-Port USB 3.0 Hub with Individual Power Switches and LEDs included 5V/2.5A power adapter (HB-UMP3)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TPMEOYM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
to Odyssey HMD+.

Nvidia 980 HDMI Port
to
AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to Female HDMI Extension Cable - 10 Feet
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
to Odyssey HMD+

I think that's it. Mine is coming Saturday.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have an Asus 1060 6GB. It is working with this HDMI cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/

I'm also using this USB extender: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008219UMI/

But, the USB extension would involve the motherboard more than the video card.

Grab a $6 Certified Monoprice HDMI cable off amazon if you’re in the states.

Had the same problem, got the cable and the problem hasn’t returned.


Edit: I tried the safe mode thing as well, but it didn’t last long.

[This one](Monoprice Certified Premium HDMI Cable - Black - 6 Feet | 4K@60Hz, HDR, 18Gbps, 28AWG, YUV 4:4:4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GCGKI3O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OU-3Cb51VMGV0)

Since the audio inputs on the Magni are RCAs and the line outs on the Focusrite 1/4 inch, you'll need a dual quarter inch to dual RCA interconnect, like this one.

Your setup will be like this:

PC --(usb)-->2i2--(1/4″-to-RCA)-->Magni 2-->HD 600

(and rule #3)

Depending on the inputs on the amp, you can use either:

1/4" TRS to Stereo RCA cable

Dual 1/4" TRS to RCA cable


Balanced inputs accept unbalanced signals, and you shouldn't notice any difference. The benefit of balanced signals and appropriate cables allows less interference over long distances. Much longer than you will probably be using. Studio/home and even small event usage is totally fine.


My personal setup on my production desk includes using a Traktor Audio 6 soundcard as an output (unbalanced) to my monitors' balanced XLR inputs using RCA -> XLR cables. I have no issues

Line. You want RCA to 1/4" mono adapters/cable and use both inputs. This kind of thing. I don't think that will do stereo 1/4" (TRS) on the inputs, they are mono inputs. You would probably end up getting the difference of the L/R channels which is not at all what you want.

You need an amp to run between passive (non self-powered) speakers and the output source (controller). You didn't specify the speakers, but I would imagine they are passive since they have 1/4" TS connections... usually active speakers (self powered) have XLR inputs and sometimes additionally, have RCA and a mic input.

If, somehow, your speakers are active you'll just need this cord or this adapter, but I really would expect you need an amp. Having no idea what speakers you have, but knowing the next question will probably be what amp should you get, I'll just go ahead and put this here: Behringer Inuke. This is a budget amp, but it does a fairly good job. I have one running some subs and have zero complaints. If you end up needing more power, just look for the bigger versions.

I'm glad this question came up! I just found out about the perfect piece of kit that solves your problem and ones that you didn't even ask about.

First, in order to connect from any phono preamp's RCA connection the 1/4" input of your monitors you will need a mono-RCA-to-mono-1/4" cable. Like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-HOS-CPR201-Dual/dp/B000068O16

Now you will need a phono preamp. Normally I recommend the ART DJ Pre II. It's a very good, affordable phono preamp that offers great performance, especially for its price bracket. It's the preamp I currently use. Before I settled on the DJ Pre II, I tested a number of phono pre's, including the Behringer you linked to and another popular budget pre, the TCC TC-750.

The difference between the Behringer and the other two was apparent and immediately noticeable. The Berhringer was more veiled and less dynamic than the other two. When comparing the ART and the TCC models, I thought the DJ Pre II was more neutral and a bit clearer than the TC-750. But is wasn't the very obvious difference between it and the Behringer. It was more degrees of subtlety.

So why don't i think you should get the DJ Pre II? Convenience. TCC makes another phono preamp model, the TCC TC-754. Not only is it a phono preamp, but it also includes a volume attenuator (control) and four-input audio switcher. Why are these important? The volume control for your monitors is on the back of the unit. With the TC-754 you can use the volume control on the unit to adjust it with ease. And the input selector will allow you to not only hook your turntable up, but also MP3, CD, computer or what have you and switch between them. Otherwise you would need to remove the RCA from the standalone phono preamp every time you wanted to use a different source.

While I personally haven't used it, I have used the TC-750 which its phono pre is based on. I think it would be a very good solution for hooking a turntable to your monitors.

http://www.amazon.com/TC-754-BLACK-Phono-Preamplifier-Switchable/dp/B000ZZINTK/

This will work.

Hosa CPR-201 Dual 1/4" TS to Dual RCA Stereo Interconnect Cable, 1 Meter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O16/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UurSCbMWAW3S3

The Cloudlifter would be a complete waste of money here and many people use them where they aren't needed.

The bad news here is that Behringer's classic mixers are just plain garbage. End of story. Good for seeing how high it will bounce when being thrown off the roof of a building though.

I would go so far as to say you shouldn't even look at mixers at all unless you're playing an instrument like a guitar in addition to using the mic. You mix where your sources are, so on a gaming PC you need to mix in software on the PC, not in some external box that you need to setup loopback on. The type of software mixer you're looking for is Voicemeeter.

Behringer's "HD" audio interfaces, however, are pretty decent on the cheap. I just wouldn't touch anything less than the $60 UMC202HD though.

At the end of the day, a 2-input/2-output USB audio interface like the Behringer UMC202HD is all you need. I wouldn't bother with an external hardware mixer at all. It's just not needed. If you want to spend a bit more on a nicer interface, Tascam, Roland, and Zoom are worth looking at. Just don't buy Focusrite Scarlett as their Windows 10 drivers are straight-up broken and won't be fixed any time soon.

Get a decent mic arm like the On Stage MBS5000, plug one end of the XLR cable into the SM58, then the other end into your audio interface, e.g. UMC202HD. Plug your speakers and headphone into the interface. Done. That's all you need. You don't even need a foam ball as a vocal dynamic like that SM58 has a built-in pop filter foam behind it's screw-on head. You can stop using your motherboard's onboard audio entirely too. Maybe do an isolation mic clip if you're feeling fancy.

Remember you need a mic arm as putting your mic on the desk is too far away from your mouth and the mic will pick up more keyboard, mouse, and room noise than it will of your voice.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BWM5E8C

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ZO60I

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QHURUBE

Some adapters you might need, maybe, depending on how your PC speakers are setup:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010D0HO0

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O3S

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O18

Yes, using adapters like this or this you can connect them to unbalanced sources using 3.5mm TRS or RCA respectively.

TS (6.5mm, 1/4") to RCA, and here

You need this cable or RCA-RCA cable and this adapters. Scarlett input attenuation at line level.

The LSR305s need a balanced mono input on the TRS jack. You have a stereo TRS to dual mono breakout cable. You need something like this.

Yeah you would need two mono rca splits. You'd just split both the red and the white at the controller, now you have 2 stereo outputs, and connect to the speakers as usual.

Edit: or just get one of these joints ... https://www.amazon.com/CableWholesales-Audio-Piggyback-Cable-Female/dp/B000I94FAE

Same thing as a split but with a longer cable already attached.

Upgrading the Modi wouldn't, but upgrading the Magni would - the Magni 2 Uber has a pre-amp output.
Essentially this just passes the input from your Modi through the Magni's volume control without amplifying it, when there's no headphones connected. With headphones connected of course, the input is amplified and sent to them. Again, the pre-out is RCA so the same cables as above if you chose that. Bear in mind this only works with either speakers or headphones at once, if you want to output to both at once you'd want a simple RCA splitter.

Again, neither is necessary since the Windows volume control is an option, but it's much easier.

RE speaker stands: Mostly comes down to preference and their looks. These are inexpensive and should fit / be strong enough for the LSR308.

Component order should look like this:

Computer -> Modi -> Sys -> Speakers OR Magni
Optional Second Source ^

If you're regularly swapping between the two, you could connect both at once using a splitter or switch box. Otherwise, those cables look good.

Totally possible. Pick up a couple of RCA splitters, or something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Piggyback-Cable-Male-Female/dp/B000I94FAE/

I have this setup, i.e. I'm using a monitor with only DVI input and outputting audio through my PC speakers. Here's what I do.

I use an HDMI cable with an HDMI-to-DVI adapter for video.

For audio, well, it's a bit more complicated. I use the Xbox's composite cable for audio, but first, you'll need this adapter. Now that gives us a standard 3.5 mm cable.

If you just want to use standalone speakers (or headphones), buy this adapter and plug your speakers/headphones into it.

If your speakers, like mine, are hooked up to your PC, plug the cable from the RCA adapter (first one I mentioned) into the line in, then have Windows "listen to this device" -- it's in the Sound control panel.

The trickiest part is getting both the HDMI and composite cables plugged into your Xbox, as the composite cable has a stupid ass tab to it that prevents both it and the HDMI cable from being plugged in. I had to resort to ripping the plastic casing off of the composite cable, which is probably your best bet.

Let me know if you have any questions.

I think these are what your looking for

http://www.amazon.com/Syba-Connectland-CL-ADA31002-Female-Adapter/dp/B002R0DZXU



http://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Cable/dp/B0018MI5F6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1322863773&sr=8-2

No worries! Just plug the yellow into the one that leads to the monitor, and then the white/red into the speaker one(even though the monitor one has white/red, just ignore it).

PS I messed up. Instead of the second one, get this: http://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Cable/dp/B0018MI5F6/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1322875068&sr=1-7

You have to get a special one that's powered. Here's one I found on Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002ISVI3U/

An active adapter is not a cord. It's a box.

• https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Accell-B087B-002B-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Dual-Link/dp/B002ISVI3U

Then you'll need active Displayport to DVI-D adapters, two of them, that support 144Hz at 1080p.

I have this one, I haven't found a cheaper one that supports 144Hz.

https://www.amazon.com/Accell-B087B-002B-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Dual-Link/dp/B002ISVI3U/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1481571274&sr=8-4&keywords=dvi+displayport+144hz

Sure, I have two GTX770 cards and the inputs they have are DVI-I (Analog and Digital), DVI-D (Digital), HDMI, and DisplayPort. This QNIX QX2710 monitor requires at least a dual link DVI cable in order to function. DVI-I and DVI-D both support dual-link DVI. Therefore, four of my six monitors are powered by the DVI inputs on my GPUs.

For the remaining two monitors, you need to use the DisplayPort input. HDMI won't work with these monitors, the maximum resolution of HDMI 1.4a (which is what the GTX770 supports) is 1200p@60Hz.

EDIT: I was wrong about HDMI 1.4 not supporting 1440p. It actually does support resolutions up to 2160p @ 24hz, and you can apparently possibly overclock up to 120hz by unlocking and increasing the pixel clock on the graphics card, which is what I am trying now.

The remaining two monitors must use a special DisplayPort to Dual-Link DVI converter in order to work. There really is no other way otherwise, unfortunately. And these converters are not cheap, they go for around $100 each if you were to buy them on Amazon. What I managed to do was find similar Dell BizLink cables at a much cheaper price on eBay (~$50), and these are the ones I bought from different sellers. Those cables also require an available USB port for extra power.

So, for your case, if you want to run those GPUs separately it would be simple to use the DVI inputs for all of them. If you want to SLI, you're going to have to buy one of those DP to dual-link DVI converters to get that third monitor to work.

I thought we were going off of dual link :P [Heres how much one cost in canada though, pretty goddamn expensive] (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B002ISVI3U/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A19N3NI8X4F24J)

Any mDP to HDMI adapter should work.
Personally, I prefer specific cables with the right plugs on both ends rather than using an adapter to convert a regular cable at one end.

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Mini-DisplayPort-Adapter-Cable/dp/B002XVYZ82

Most subwoofers use RCA cables like the yellow, white, and red to the left. They sell dedicated subwoofer cables that are just high quality RCA: http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-Subwoofer-Cable-Feet/dp/B003FVYXY0/ref=sr_1_1?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1464116082&sr=1-1

If you want to integrate video sources, I would recommend getting a home theater receiver. It will work fine for stereo music and offers a ton of good features.

This is a good choice: https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/denavrs730h/denon-avr-s730h-7.2-ch-x-75-watts-a/v-receiver-w/heos/1.html

Next you need some speakers, I’d get these Infinity R162, it’s a killer price on some great speakers. They will play loud and clear and work well for music and movies: https://www.harmanaudio.com/speakers/R162BK-Z.html

Lastly you need a sub, again Infinity has a great sale on this and i don’t think there’s anything better unless you spend quite a bit more for a RSL speedwoofer: https://www.infinityspeakers.com/reference-series-home/REFERENCE+SUB+R10.html

Speaker cables: Micca Pure Copper Speaker Wire with Gold Plated Banana Plugs, 14AWG, 6 Feet (2 Meter), Pair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZZ5HCTM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_n60mDbHDDC5EV

Speaker stands: Sanus BF24B 24 Inch Speaker Stands (Pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006JQ5N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_M60mDb568ER14

Subwoofer cable: Mediabridge ULTRA Series Subwoofer Cable (15 Feet) - Dual Shielded with Gold Plated RCA to RCA Connectors - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003FVYXY0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_a70mDbDG54CND

Possibly a plain ole subwoofer cable like this if your receiver has the same type of subwoofer output.

https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-Subwoofer-Cable-Feet/dp/B003FVYXY0?ref_=Oct_BSellerC_598586_1&pf_rd_p=c8bdcc85-7d25-51c7-8c05-2e52abbb5167&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=598586&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=XRTQ905PQWWBMJYS88RJ&pf_rd_r=XRTQ905PQWWBMJYS88RJ&pf_rd_p=c8bdcc85-7d25-51c7-8c05-2e52abbb5167

http://m.thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-surge-protector/

http://www.knukonceptz.com/home-theater/subwoofer-cable/sp/krystal-cable-subwoofer-rca-8-meter/

http://www.monoprice.com/mobile/catalog/subcategory?maincategoryid=102&categoryid=10255

http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-Series-Subwoofer-Cable/dp/B003FVYXY0

I'd get a longer sub cable than that( 15 to 25 foot to be able to use the "sub crawl" technique for best bass at your listening position once placing the sub in room. Mediabridge through Amazon or Knu Konceptz if you want a pure copper core cable ( I've used both and they sound exactly the same to me.) Not sure on the home theater power strips being worth it unless they have battery backups built in(debatable that's even needed.) I would also go with Monoprice's Redmere active high speed HDMI cables for longer runs but either way I would avoid Audioquest as they are overhyped and over priced.

I'm like you, OP. I also am philosophically opposed to spending more on audio than on screen. That being said, good speakers do last for a very long time: if new formats ever come out, you can always upgrade the receiver and you can keep your speakers forever.

I did a lot of searching and I ended up with a good compromise that allowed me to have a LG OLED 65 together with a set of solid speakers.

​

Here's what you need to know:

​

- The latest OLED TVs are pretty much the same as last year's. LG B7, C7, B8 or C8 are all the same TV pretty much. Get the cheapest you can find. I bought mine on greentoe.com. I offered 1900$ for a 65' B7 this past April and my offer got accepted. You can even try to price match it with your credit card, I think (search in this sub). This may save you a few dollars more. Bottom line is: you should be able to snatch a 65 OLED for ~1500-1900.

- You can order a refurbished sub for a fraction of the price. I have the Denon X1400H that u/robotdinofight recommended, and I also bought it from accessories4less.

- Atmos speakers are mostly marketing BS. There isn't much sound that comes from above you in movies. That Denon is compatible anyway, so you can always add them later. Before you do that, just go watch a movie in Atmos at a theater.

- Sorround speakers are not that important either. Your dialogue is coming from the center speaker, and music etc will be on the front channels, with just some in your sorrounds more for ambiance than anything else. You can go with *very cheap* speakers here. Source: Zeos's guide here. I ended up buying the cheapest speakers Zeos recommended: Micca Covo-s for 40$ the pair (a factor in my decision was also that I had the speaker stands I was using for the cheap Logitech 5.1 PC system I had. Speaker stands are expensive too so factor in that cost too). These speakers are honestly not great: I tried using a pair of ELAC B6 and yes, sorround was much better. But I like HDR and perfect blacks way more than better sorround, so I ended up returning the ELACs and kept the Miccas as my rear. Maybe I'll upgrade some other time.

- If you are like me and have neighbors and a wife who's not into loud explosion, you really don't need a crazy sub. I have the Elac S10 and that's *more* than enough for us, my wife wants me to keep it down. Get a cheap one! Mine was only about 100$. See Zeos's guide here: https://www.reddit.com/comments/5b1u99

- Invest in good fronts. I have the ELAC B6.2 and while I don't think they sound like the crazy expensive speakers that some friends have, they sound *much* better than a soundbar/integrated TV sound and are great for movies! Important: whatever you buy, you must buy a center channel that matches the left/right speakers. I have the ELAC Debut 2.0 C6.2 center, with the ELAC Debut 2.0 B6.2 Bookshelf Speakers as my L/R channels.

- Buy cheap speaker wire and strip it yourself!! I'm so bad with practical stuff that I was a bit intimidated by it, but honestly it's ridiculously simple. The guide that I liked before has a section on wires, read it. The sub has its own cable, remember to buy it (I bought the Amazon one).

- Buy cheap HDMI cables from AmazonBasics.

- I have these stands for my fronts: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PYV7LQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Compared to u/robotdinofight's guide, you lose some sound quality, but only where it matters least and you should save some 700$, enough money to go from the TCL to a LG OLED. Hope it helped!

Thanks guys. Just ordered the top of the line Amazon option.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-Subwoofer-Cable-Feet/dp/B003FVYXY0/ref=zg_bs_598586_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=7F438Z1DXARX4SWXNQEA

This is the cable everyone should be using: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Certified-Premium-Speed-Cable/dp/B01GCGKI3O/ref=sr_1_1

Most HDMI cables SHOULD be able to pass a 4K signal, but many don't. You need CERTIFIED, PREMIUM 4K HDMI cables w/ the gold "HDMI.org" logo($6 on Amazon): https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GCGKI3O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought a 5x1 4K switch just for this purpose and it's been great. That way I have a single input to my 4K tv, but can switch between the sources with the remote that comes with the switch.

This is the one I got:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WV5YJ6H

Make sure you get good high-speed HDMI cables for each connection, too:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GCGKI3O

​

Hi again, I just reset the sound bar and while it did not inherently fix the problem I did stumbled upon a workaround that seems to at least be reliable.

1. play video from Apple TV 4k
   
   
2. the tv displays "No Signal" screen while playing audio out of sound bar
   
   
3. power off sound bar
   
   
4. TV displays passthrough 4k video and plays audio through internal TV speakers
   
   
5. Turn sound bar back on
   
   
6. TV displays 4k video and Atmos / 5.1 etc play out of the sound bar
   
   
   And to answer your question yes - I am using a certified HDMI cable, I am using these:
   
   
   Monoprice Certified Premium HDMI Cable - 6 Feet - Black, 4K@60Hz, HDR, 18Gbps, 28AWG, YUV 4:4:4, Dual Video Stream
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GCGKI3O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Need the exact specs for this but looking at general 670 specs, it has 1x HDMI 1.4 and 1x DP 1.2 ports. HDMI 1.4 supports max. 1080p 120Hz, so it can't run your monitor at 1440p 144Hz and DP1.2 should support 1440p 144Hz yet some cables might still fail to deliver that, especially if some VRR technology is involved.

I'd suggest getting a certified DP1.4 cable and trying that to make it work, I'm using this cable and it serves me well.

I would look to upgrading the AVR as all the video is analog. If you insist on keeping it, a Component to HDMI converter is what you need. Something like this is what you need to stay on the budget friendly side.

You're definitely mixing up some information.

The two different video output cables are the standard composite cables (1 yellow cable, 480i) and the component cables(3 cables green, blue, red, 480p) which are sold separately.

Both composite and component video are analog.

The product description of this certain adapter states that all it does is convert analog into digital.

>the Wii2HDMI converter dynamically switches or converts your analog content to digital HDMI format.

Using the Sewell adapter is basically the same using component cables to output 480p then converting it to HDMI using one of these adapters just with less cables.

You'll need a cable that has HD components on one end and a VGA on the other. The HD components would go in the output and the VGA into the monitor. I have yet to find one like that but I'm still looking.

Edit: I found this which you could put HD components into and put this going from the HDMI port to the VGA on your monitor.

I use

• a converter
  
  
• an hdmi to hdmi cable (one end into the tv and one end into the converter)
  
  
• and a 3.5mm jack to 3.5mm jack audio cable (one end to the tv, one end to the macbook)
  
  Works like a charm when I change the tv input to hdmi.
  
  edit:
  Thanks to nalc, looks like OP could use:
  
  
• Mini DVI to HDMI adaptor
  
  
• an hdmi to hdmi cable (one end into the tv and one end into the converter)
  
  
• and a 3.5mm jack to 3.5mm jack audio cable (one end to the tv, one end to the macbook)
  
  
  Depending on the devices used, the audio may or may not be transferred through HDMI. With my Macbook and tv, I need to hook up the audio cable separately (there is a jack next to the hdmi slot on my tv).
  

I do this to record my voice mails that I don't want to delete.

First, I use a regular auxiliary cord.

Then one end of that cord I plug into my phone, and the other I put THIS ADAPTER on it, and plug it into my Scarlett's microphone jack. Then I arm the track in Ableton and record like normal, as if I was recording anything else via my microphone.

Works like a charm.

I’ve been working on my display and wiring setup for a while now and I’m finally happy with it so I thought I would share it with r/mini. Any suggestions or comments would be greatly appreciated. This is one of my first posts so if I messed up, that’s why.

Links:

Ultragauge: http://www.ultra-gauge.com/ultragauge/

Aluminum GPS Mount: http://www.cravenspeed.com/mini-gps-mounting-kits/

AUX in: http://www.minicarparts.net/Instructions/M3367_Instructions.cfm

Phone/ipod holder: http://amzn.com/B009GMKT0Y

Charging cable: http://amzn.com/B000EFVGV8

gold plated AUX cable: http://amzn.com/B004LTEUDO

Antenna: http://www.cravenspeed.com/products/The-Stubby-Antenna.html

Inverter: http://amzn.com/B004MDXS0U

Lights: I don’t remember exactly, but if someone want the link then I can look more. They were like $25 total.

I bought a DisplayPort/HDMI adapter for my monitor, otherwise I just got a black screen on my Rift with an hourglass icon. I also bought two extension cables:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Don't know where you got that idea from, but this 10f extension works perfect for me
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/

USB 3.0:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

HDMI:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I see in the comments below that you've already returned it, if you are willing to use a mixer the setup I would recommend to start would be:


Behringer Xm8500


Windscreen


XLR Cable


Behringer Xenyx 502


RCA to 3.5mm


All this is less than $80.

A stand like this would work well, and it is still below $100.

Here is a sound sample I found on YouTube.


Once you have more money to play around with for dynamic microphones look into: Shure SM58, Shure Beta 58, and the EV ND767A. These will run you roughly $100-$150.


Once you have a use case for condenser microphones look into: AT2020, Samson C02 Pair, and MXL 770. All of these will run you roughly $100, however if you went with the Samson C02s you would need more inputs and therefore a different mixer.

Looks like that takes aux(3.5mm) , SD card and 1/4 inch, so you've got options.

Here's a CD player

Yep! Anything like this:
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B00NO73MUQ

....and going old school - an aux cable from the headphone jack into the microphone jack on your PC, then use Audacity to save it as a WAV file

https://www.cnet.com/uk/how-to/transfer-memorable-voice-mails-to-your-computer-with-a-simple-audio-trick/

(WAV files are uncompressed with no quality lost)

Like the other posters in this thread have said- the legality of recording this, or if the recording is legally acceptable in a court case is something for the company lawyer to decide on.

PC->modi is USB A->B, modi->magni is RCA

Looks like you're gonna want to get an RCA cable like this (red and white on both ends). Run that from the record player to the subwoofer, then run that speaker cable from the two speakers to the subwoofer. This only works because your sub is powered.

Check out /r/zeos for more stuff like this if you need more help/diagrams and stuff. Also, look up the subwoofer crawl and speaker placement guides for getting it to sound as good as possible

Hmm so RCA phono in and 3.5mm jack out.. The speakers are amped and have a volume control. So you need a phono stage cause all turntables need them to get your analog audio to line level. I assume you're trying to save money so we won't get serious. This Pyle should do the job

https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Phono-Turntable-Preamp-Preamplifier/dp/B004HJ1TTQ

From the pyle you'll want an RCA Male to 3.5mm Female cable. This should do it.

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Premium-Stereo-Female-Plated/dp/B003L14XTO

EDIT: OH looks like the Logitech speakers have an RCA input! So you don't need a converter. So this monoprice rca between the phono pre and the Logitech should work. Let me know if I'm wrong, cause if it doesn't have RCA input then you'll be going back to RCA to 3.5mm converter.

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-1-5ft-Premium-22AWG-Cable/dp/B003L1717K

If you need the RCA interconnect between the turntable and preamp.

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CRA-202DJ-Ground-Stereo-Interconnect/dp/B000PO1H80

Personally I'd get a good integrated like a yamaha, that's more in the direction of best way and hook it up to some nice floorstander towers or bookshelf speakers like Klipsch, Elac, and so on.

nope, they are passive speakers. that's why we suggest a SMLS SA-60 with it. you would also need two of these RCA to RCA cables. they don't have to necessarily be those. maybe someone has a better recommendation in the US.

From the motherboard to the DAC you need a S/PDIF cable. From the DAC to the subwoofer and studio monitors you need RCA male to male cables. Because they each have their own input you will also need a RCA male to dual female adapter, commonly called a Y splitter.

Both the sub and speakers I listed are wall powered, so I have removed the amp recommendation from the list.

https://www.amazon.ca/Monoprice-105346-1-5-Feet-22AWG-Premium/dp/B003L1717K/ - For the speakers.

https://www.amazon.ca/Monoprice-105348-15-Feet-22AWG-Premium/dp/B003L1AGKO - For the sub.

https://www.amazon.ca/Vanco-AGP3FX-6-Inch-Metal-Adapter/dp/B004M8S06M/ - Y adapter from DAC.

https://www.amazon.ca/Exacon-Digital-Optical-Audio-Toslink/dp/B0051U0PRM/ - From motherboard to DAC.

These: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-1-5ft-Premium-22AWG-Cable/dp/B003L1717K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483470447&sr=8-1&keywords=monoprice+rca

Sure did! works great, very east to use. Been switching the stack between the PS4 optical and the micro usb connector (need a longer cable) on my MacBook pro. Noticeable difference when I'm just using the aux on my mac.

Also @jayfurious

> I remember having to do this setting everytime I unplugged and replugged in the splitter from the dualshock. But I don't have a PS4 anymore, so not sure if the annoyance is still there or they fixed it.

It's still there tolerable though.

Previous setup I was using the Steel Series Arctis 7 for well over a year. At first I was unimpressed following the common theme from a-lot of HD650/HD6XX reviews. Been using them alot recently and now I really can tell the difference in sound signature now. Will try the Arctis 7s in a week or so here to see how much of a difference I notice. I use them for (order from most to least) gaming where I'm still getting used to the soundstage for FPS (ambient/soundtracks in single player game , movies/TV which gave me a-lot more appreciation for them, hearing every detail, and last but certainly not least music; where I find these shine the most IMO LOOOOVED my first listen to Yes - Roundabout. Huge difference when going through that stack rather than my Macbooks aux.

I also have to highly commend Roppmaster's RCA cable recommendation

>RCA cables: https://www.amazon.com/0-5-Foot-RCA-Cable-Pair/dp/B01ALMYOHQ/.

The extension cables were a must for me and a great purchase.

These work so much better than the Monoprice RCA's I originally opted for they were so inflexible they were actually lifting the backside of my Modi 3 into the air. These RCA's are the perfect flexibility for the stack setup. Will post a pic soon.

yep, all you need is a RCA interconnect

Get rid of those cables- they are garbage. The ones that i used are these:
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-1-5ft-Premium-22AWG-Cable/dp/B003L1717K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1499780378&sr=8-3&keywords=monoprice+rca

Of course choose the proper length. With these i have zero noise n my table. I tried swapping in the original cables and its atrocious. These cables are super cheap and well insulated/shielded. This would be the first thing i would do in your case.

So you have a cable that looks more like this? Then any old RCA cable should work to connect to the back of your Vali. I feel like most homes (or friends) will have a couple laying around.

You don't have to buy expensive cables, or necessarily from Schiit. If you get a Modi2 and Magni2, you'll need a USB cable with an A type connector on one end and a B connector on the other to go from the Modi2 to the computer. Like this.

To connect the Modi2 to the Magni2, you'll need basic RCA cables. Something like this will do.

The ones I've linked are just examples. But there really isn't a need to go overboard on cables.

From your computer to your receiver, you can use a 3.5 mm to RCA cable (almost all PCs and receivers), a digital TOSLINK cable (most PCs and most receivers), or some kind of USB DAC and RCA patch cables. Some receivers can connect directly to your PC using USB or wifi or wired network.

From your receiver to your unpowered speakers (no wall power connection), you would use whatever bare wire cables are currently attached to your speakers or 16 gauge or thicker electrical cable. If you are using powered speakers (with wall power connection), those usually take RCA patch cables, although some have bare wire connectors as well.

All you need are RCA cables like this one (as an example):

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-1-5ft-Premium-22AWG-Cable/dp/B003L1717K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1537640889&sr=8-2&keywords=short+rca

You can pick and choose how long, what brand, or how flexible you want them to be. FYI the ones linked above are kind of stiff, but will get the job done for the given length.

All you need is a set of RCA's from the Dac to Amp and some speaker wire to hook the Wharfedale's to the SA60.

That is about it. If you are not sure about the speaker wire. I have a tutorial

A USB cable is included, but you'd have to pick up some short RCA cables. https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-1-5ft-Premium-22AWG-Cable/dp/B003L1717K/

Depends on what your budget is. I'd suggest, within your budget, a Modi Multibit + Magni Uber and you'll have yourself equipment that can power future headphones. If not, you can't go wrong with a Modi 2 + Magni 2 Uber and it's one of the best bang for your buck stack. It'll be a nice improvement over your motherboard's sound card which can carry noise from your video card/power supply/fans.

You'll have to purchase a USB A to B cable as well as as an RCA male to male cable.

USB A to B I purchased:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH11KIK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

RCA Cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003L1717K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can also purchase the 6" PYST cable from Schiit for $20. -_-

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003L1717K/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1426706903&sr=8-2&keywords=monoprice+rca&pi=AC_SX200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=416iQd-rgoL&ref=plSrch

similar, but half the length, I use these for my setup

I am using this but am looking for something better. I plan on going S-Video so possibly this but I would rather not have to press a button to switch between Composite and S-Video. For the Wii I use this and for the PS2 I use this. For the PS2 you have to trim the USB cable to be able to use it vertical. For the Xbox there is no solution so I use this

https://www.amazon.ca/Portta-Component-Converter-Adapter-%C2%A0Windows%C2%A010/dp/B003VJ9RP6

I would say the the PS3's component cables and that and you'd be off to the races. The component cables for the PS3 give you the plug you need on the back of the system, that box converts it to HDMI, HDMI is read by your HD60.

I think the mistake you are making is assuming you need to go directly from Female Component to Male HDMI which you won't really find as it is a more complex conversion than a cable can manage. A little box like this, or anything similar, will convert the signal for you and then you can just use a regular male to male HDMI to connect to your HD60.

Just realized your username, but in general, there are lot of people that think the LGP does something "magical". There are a lot of different ways to improve lag. It just comes down to breaking down all the processes.

• Analog to Digital Conversion
  
  >You can use an external ADC like an LGP, Shuttle, or others (1, 2). Many times, the internal ADC built into the LCD screen is really poor. This the big thing about using the Wii U to play Smash, because there is no analog involved when you use HDMI.
  
  
• Image Scaling
  
  >There are external scalers like XRGB's Framemeister, but it probably best to just let your display upscale your image. There are also devices (1, 2) that upscale and do the ADC together.
  
  
• Post Processing
  
  >This is strictly limited to setting your LCD screen to Game Mode and disabling all special video effects (120hz motion, image filtering, dynamic contrast, etc).
  
  A lot of people are using the LGP just because their gaming monitor doesn't have component input. What's interesting is, technically, any gaming LCD monitor with VGA already has an internal ADC chip. The simplest (and by that logic, the cheapest) solution for these types of monitors is to get a Component (YPbPr) to VGA (RGBHV) adapter and let the gaming monitor do the ADC.
  
  LGP is just the popular solution, but it's definitely overkill if we want to move to LCD gaming.

http://www.amazon.com/component-YPbPr-HDMI-converter-v1-3/dp/B003VJ9RP6

I'd recommend looking for a component to HDMI adapter instead of buying a new display. Plus Monitor are generally better than TVs especially when using a PC.

I just found one https://www.amazon.com/Portta-N3CVRHP-Component-Converter-support/dp/B003VJ9RP6

hope this helps.

What I'm doing, and this is the best quality PS2 video I've managed to conjure up on my HD projector, is using a PS2 component cable and a component-to-HDMI converter. There are a lot of different kinds of converters than the one I linked here. My receiver doesn't have HDMI, so I'm converting the receiver's component out to an HDMI hub.

Try something like this. It's cheaper, and should solve your problem

[choose this one! I have it and works awesome!](Portta YPbPr Component RGB + R/L to HDMI Converter v1.3 support LPCM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VJ9RP6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kHKNzb32F62WN)

I love Amazon but those cheap $2 ones didn't last long for me.

I've bought a Monster one (because I was feeling extra risky and felt like throwing my money away) that didn't last for 6 months.

I bought this: http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B004LTEUDO/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406677494&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=medialink+aux

and it's still running strong for over a year.

Good luck!

I've had great luck with my Mediabridge cable, purchased from Amazon 2-3 years ago. It lives in my car, gets constantly pinched by the lid to my center console, and has never once crapped out. It's got pretty sturdy construction and I honestly don't know how you could destroy this.

Yes, just a mini amp - pick up this - (its a clone of the original Tripath Lepai that's not made anymore, and has a great power supply)

• https://www.amazon.com/Kinter-K2020A-ORIGINAL-TA2020-020-Amplifier/dp/B077Z7DBRT
  
  and use the 3.5mm headphone output from your TV to either the RCA inputs or the 3.5mm input.
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8JW0/
  
  or
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B004LTEUDO/
  
  BOOM, you're done. It will drive those Polks just fine! I bought one just for fun and had it hooked up to both sets of my Polk floorstanding monitor 70's and monitor 60s and it had no problem!
  
  

For a source with the red & white outputs, but only a mic jack on the tape recorder, a Y-cable like one of these can probably patch them together.

Using a laptop as the source, the headphone jack along with a 3.5mm male-to-male cord to the tape recorder's mic input should work. If that renders it inaudible (you can't hear what's playing to monitor it as you record) a quickie solution would be to plug in a headphone splitter w/ headphones into the source device along with your patch cord.

Give the end recording a test listen to make sure the source volume is loud enough, but not so loud that the end result is overmodulated (staticky and crappy sounding).

If you are talking music and stuff, the easiest way is to connect the output connector of your player to the input jack of your computer and start a simply program that can record audio to wav or mp3.

A program likely will come with your OS and the only thing you need is a proper cable (depending on what the out-port of your tape recorder looks like) like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B004LTEUDO

If your playback device doesn't have a jack to plug external speaker in and only has internal speakers you could try putting it next to a microphone and record it that way.

If you have a tape with data on it instead of music things may be a bit more complicated.

If your headphones don't have a female connector at the cups, you'd have to mod it yourself.. using one of these
option 0
option 1

Then you'd just get one of these

cable

GUIDE
There are even more options for the female plug in the guide.

Something like this is what I'm talking about. I'm just trying to run a Korg Monotron into my Scarlett 2i2. And considering there are very few cables in my small setup, one shitty one that adds noise to my recording is going to ruin it quite a bit, so I'm going to worry about it.

I see this question asked a lot and I have a very cost-effective solution that I notice a lot of people aren't aware of. I was thinking of doing a video guide of it though there are similar methods/walkthroughs on youtube.

DISCLAIMER: This may not be the best method for your specific setup. My method is not the neatest/simplest of setups, but it is cheap. Also, with this setup, your party members' voices will be recorded/streamed with or without their permission, so you should probably inform your party members before you start recording/streaming.

This is my setup for my Xbox One (should also work with PS4, though you may need different cables because IIRC Xbox One uses a proprietary 3.5mm socket):

Things you'll need:

1x 3.5mm splitter that splits mic and speaker.
This is the one I use (may need a specific one for PS4): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CTIOY9Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2x 3.5mm to 3.5mm audio cables
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LTEUDO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1x PC-compatible headset and microphone, preferably USB. (I use Astros A50)

STEPS:

1. Plug the 3.5mm splitter into your controller.
   
   
2. Plug 1 3.5mm cable into the speaker that was split from your controller and plug the other end of that cable into your microphone input on your PC.
   The speaker audio coming from your controller is all the sounds you would hear if you had a headset plugged into your controller. What we're doing here is routing that sound into your PC's microphone input so your PC reads it as an audio input device.
   
   
3. Plug 1 3.5mm cable into the mic that was split from your controller and plug the other end of that cable into the speaker output on your PC.
   The mic split from your controller is the microphone input that you would normally use to speak to your party if you had a headset plugged into your controller. What we're doing here is making it so that sound coming out of your PC is now being routed to the controller and therefore to the party/game chat.
   
   
4. Plug your PC-compatible headset/mic into your PC.
   
   
5. Right-click the volume icon on your PC and click on Recording Devices.
   
   
6. Right-click the headset mic you plugged in during Step 4 and set it as Default Device and Default Communications Device, then Right-Click it again and click on Properties. Now click the Listen tab. Click the dropdown menu that says "Playback through this device:" and choose the speaker output that goes to your controller (see Step 2). Check the box that says "Listen to this device" and hit OK. Now any audio that is picked up from the mic on your PC headset will get forwarded to your controller.
   
   
7. While still in the Recording tab of your Sound window, right-click the microphone input that came from your controller (see Step 3). Click the Listen tab and under the dropdown menu chose your PC headset as the "Playback through this device:". Check the "Listen to this device" box and hit OK. Now all the sound coming out of your controller (ie party chat) will get forwarded through your PC's mic input and to your headset's speaker. NOTE: You may also have to change the volume of this under the Levels tab.
   
   And that's pretty much it. Phew. You will need to tweak some things based on the PC mic/headset you have.
   
   Things I recommend using with this setup:
   
   Adobe Audition to add filters to your mic for improved audio quality on your mic (you'll need VAC for this).

Starting from Microphone to GoPro HD Hero2:

AKG-D112 -> Shielded XLR-to-3.5mm stereo cable -> 3.5mm-to-6.3mm stereo adapter -> Microphone Preamp -> Shielded 3.5mm stereo cable -> GoPro Mic Input.

Mic is usually placed in a backpack in a side pocket or outer-most pocket with the microphone itself facing the source of the noise intended to capture (exhaust pipes). With the backpack being right behind me, there is usually a calm pocket of air there and wind noise is almost completely absent.

Amplifier is set to 35-40% volume.

Mixer "timer" & mixer "depth" turned all the way down/off.

Mixer DEFEAT is on. (Mixer is turned off)

*Yes, the total cost of this microphone setup is at or near what the GoPro itself costs. Wannafightaboutit? lol :) What good is a dope onboard video with garbage sound? Especially on a Ducati! My microphone solution is expensive because I needed to find a microphone that can pickup low frequencies at very high sound pressure levels (SPL). This microphone captures a claimed 20hz-17khz @ up to 160db. That is pretty ridiculous. Unfortunately this microphone also requires pre-amplification or I only get very low volume.

I bought this 2-pack of HDMI extension cables from Amazon so that I could have one for my living room and my office - both have worked flawlessly for me at this point. I paired with the USB extension cables also linked below. Best of luck to you - it's nice to have longer cables.

Cable Matters 2-Pack High Speed HDMI Extension Cable with Ethernet 10 Feet - 3D and 4K Resolution Ready https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJ517VI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yIDxxbZPBDP76

Cable Matters 2-Pack High Speed HDMI Extension Cable with Ethernet 10 Feet - 3D and 4K Resolution Ready https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJ517VI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zHDxxbFWC62FN

I just picked received my hdmi and usb 3 extender cables I ordered from amazon. both are 10 ft and I've had no issues with them so far. The two together are heaver than the single cable that Oculus makes, but since thats not the part hanging from my head, it shouldn't be an issue.

These are the cables I use:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_YGxdxbPW3R45Z http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-2-Pack-Extension-Ethernet/dp/B00JJ517VI?ie=UTF8&keywords=2m%20HDMI%20EXTENSION%20Cable%20Male%20to%20Female%20v1.4%203D%20High%20Speed%20With%20Ethernet%20BLACK&qid=1460783173&ref_=sr_1_fkmr3_3&sr=8-3-fkmr3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FT9VW0O/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_WTxdxbG2WKX4D http://www.amazon.com/Techflex-Split-Sleeving-Ft-Black/dp/B007VSTFMI?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

OK.. so I'm not sure how far you want to go. I got these two items >>

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-2-Pack-Extension-Ethernet/dp/B00JJ517VI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467169650&sr=8-1&keywords=Cable+Matters+2-Pack+High+Speed+HDMI+Extension+Cable+with+Ethernet++++++++++++10+Feet+-+3D+and+4K+Resolution+Ready
and
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467169808&sr=8-1&keywords=Cable+Matters+SuperSpeed+USB+3.0+++++++++++++Type+A+Male+to+Female+Extension+Cable+in+Black+10+Feet

and that gets me an additional 10 feet, which is cool, and I never have any problems. I DID initially, but I rolled back the USB3 Inateck Windows 10 driver, and it's been really stable since then. Not even one hiccup. Good luck to you. Hope this helps.

Purchasing an extra sensor comes with a Monoprice USB extension cable, but other than that, These worked for me:

Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Active Extension Cable 5 Meters/16.4 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DMFB5OK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_Fw8SCFQE4HwKp

Cable Matters 2-Pack High Speed HDMI Extension Cable with Ethernet 10 Feet - 3D and 4K Resolution Ready https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJ517VI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_n4vo6UArwEca1

Your GTX 1070 should be able to handle extensions, but maybe not a 12' extension. If you can do without 2', I'd try a 10' cable. I've got a GTX 1080 with a 10' Cable Matters HDMI 2.0 cable rigged up to an IKEA Regolit floor lamp base. From there, I connect my HMDs, whether it's an Oculusu Rift, Lenovo Explorer, or Samsung Odyssey. Haven't had any issues.

I needed the exact same thing. This is what I went with from amazon. They work great. One is the set of the tripods and the other is the mini ball head you will need for each lighthouse with the tripod.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012FTXOW4/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001WB02Z4/

I would also recommend extending the triple cable an extra 10 feet. You won't be able to keep the cable and HMD in the box after adding the cables, but it doesn't get tangled as easy and just works better when having other people try it for the first time.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FT9VW0O/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0008JHB14/

If you're able to use the full 10x10, I'd recommend hanging your headset cable from the ceiling with: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073P7GJNP/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You'll need to extend your headset cable which I can confirm these work perfectly for that:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XM1WE0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G9VOKIQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm using these....

HMDI

USB

Then for the sake of asthetics, I wrapped them both in this to keep the wires together when routing.

10 foot for each, which has worked for me, but 15 might give a bit more flexibility depending on the location of your PC. But part of the benefit of the hanging cables is that as long as your cable can reach diagonally to the opposite corner of your space, (front to back, left to right, and top to bottom. Diagonally in 3 dimensions), then it should be able to reach anywhere in your space. The stock Rift cable can reach diagonally across my space, and my extension cables are just getting my cable to its "start" position in the corner.

Keep in mind these cables don't have a ton of strength, so I recommend getting a hefty command strip hook to statically fix your wire near the ceiling to take a lot of the weight, then the hook cables can split the weight from there as it droops towards your head naturally.

This turned into a bit of a novel but I hope my "lessons learned" are helpful haha

I have an eVGA 980 and these 2 HDMI+USB extensions worked fine for me with the headset:

• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U
  
  From what I've seen in the past is that mobos and graphics cards can play a role in compatibility. I think newer cards/mobos will probably have less of a problem. I'm guessing many older hardware did not always adhere to some of the strict standards of USB/HDMI and it usually didn't matter much before with most hardware. But with the bandwidth that the rift+cameras use those standards are really important now and I think hardware vendors are now thoroughly testing and validating these in newer products. That's just my guess anyways.
  
  Edit: for reference my mobo is an Asus MAXIMUS VIII GENE Micro ATX

get yourself some VR Covers
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0779VGT9W
---
a USB extension cable
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/
---
an HDMI extension cable (you only need one, but you can't beat the deal)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/
---
a pack of velcro ties for the cables
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O9VKVFK/
---
bluetooth 4.0 adapter if you don't have one (or don't have a good one) and plug into a USB 2.0 port if possible. put it on the end of any USB extension cable will help ensure a direct line of sight to you from the adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ZIILLI/
---
and finally, if your USB ports fail the WMR test, get this card
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011LZY20G/

How long is the extension?

I had to go through a couple of cables before I found one that worked without issue - I've read other accounts that certain video cards worked well with some cables and not others. Not sure why it would suddenly stop working, short of the cable going bad or something like the power supplied to your video card changed?


These are the cables that worked for me

Note I only use one cable (10ft) not both, they just happen to come in a two pack.

For anyone interested:

Sleeve: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007VSTFMI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

HDMI: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Gives me 10 feet of breathing room so I can fasten it to the desk leg, reducing the risk to my motherboard and GPU

These are the exact cables I used to extend both my rifts. Both are lossless quality; no noise, snow, nothing.

USB Extension

HDM Extension

Also in case you are interested, these are the cables I used to extend my sensor cables. Entire system works flawlessly. Some people have had to plug one or two of the sensors into a USB2.0 slot instead of 3.0 to get perfect tracked. I just split the 3.0's up between several different card. A good rule of thumb is two inputs per card. So i used the MOBO slots, the top panel slots, and my PCI-E USB slots to ensure each component was receiving sufficient power.

Hope this helps. Best of luck and enjoy (:

I have a 980 as well. I've been using these 10 ft cables for a few months now and not had any problems:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I think your TV does not have audio out via AV Cable. I was looking at specs and it looks like the only audio out is headphone and optical. You could get a headphone to AV adapter to run headphone out from your TV into your Amp. Maybe something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00LM2Y2U4/ref=psdc_1098227031_t1_B0100WN676

You'll record through the line in on the back from your computer with one of these cables. The mini plug goes into the computer and the left/right RCA jacks go into your deck. i.e. you don't use the mic input for this.

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-3-5mm-Auxiliary-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B00LM2Y2U4/


You want a deck that plugs into the wall. It should have a headphone jack, that's a must-have for making compilations.


You want a deck made near the end of the deck era, you want soft touch controls and terms like logic, servos, capstan, head alloy mentioned on the front of the deck. Do not go for vintage looks, as the older decks have way more issues that can pop up. Hopefully you'll find a nice JVC, Sony, Onkyo that should set you back less than your price targets you mentioned.

Get a good cheap pair of bookshelf speakers (or smth more expensive) connect them to an amp and either use a splitter cable to plug it directly into mobo's integrated sound or use a usb dac (with rca cables). You will also have to spend some money on speaker wire to connect speakers to amp.

EDIT: another option is to skip amp part and get a pair of powered studio monitors.

> I was browsing newegg and saw this amp has a nice deal going on right now: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882184507&cm_re=amp-_-82-184-507-_-Product

Pyle is a junk brand, stay far away from them. The go-to budget recommendation for amps is the SMSL SA50. You'll need speaker wire to go from the SMSL to the speakers, and a 3.5 mm to RCA cable to connect the SMSL to your computer.

No worries man! JBL>TRS to RCA>Schiit Sys>RCA to 3.5mm>Laptop. Plug the XLR connection into each speaker and then plug the other end of the XLR cable which is an RCA connection into the Sys output. Then plug the rca to the sys's input. Then plug the other end of the RCA input cables which is an AUX aka 3.5mm plug into your laptop. Another note is to make sure you have a long enough power cable for the JBLs as the one it comes with it quite short. Monoprice makes good cheap power cables such as this. Let me know if you have any other questions; I'd be happy to help!

90% sure that it is a no on that idea, but aside from the cost I don't see any harm in trying.

Although the easier way would be to use something like the following product to input your external audio into the K5:

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-3-5mm-Auxiliary-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B00LM2Y2U4/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1536247300&sr=8-8&keywords=rca+to+3.5mm

Amazon dropped the ball on the Dot.

1. You can hook it up to your Yamaha, but the 3.5mm jack outputs analog only - meaning it uses whatever cheap DAC (digital-analog converter) the $50 Dot has rather than the much better one in your dedicated AV receiver. You'll need a 3.5mm to RCA stereo cable to do this (3.5mm jack plugs into Echo, the L and R RCA jacks into receiver's Audio In). Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Ugreen-Plated-Auxiliary-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B00LM2Y2U4/
   
   
2. Or Bluetooth to send the digital signal to your YBA-11 bluetooth receiver (hooked up to receiver via digital coaxial IN), but Bluetooth is lossy compression and further degrades the quality of whatever you're playing (which is already likely lossy since you'll be streaming). Also a bummer it doesn't at least support Bluetooth AptX. Your Yahama YBA-11 bluetooth does support AptX, but Echo does not.
   
   Just get a cheaper Chromecast Audio - it supports both analog(using 3.5mm or RCA and it's internal DAC like the Dot)... plus a digital out using S/PDIF - you'd connect it to the Optical Digital In connector on your AV receiver with a cable like this: https://www.amazon.com/KabelDirekt-TOSLINK-Optical-Digital-Audio/dp/B00GZQWLF0/
   

You might want a headphone to RCA adapter cable.

EDIT: these would probably be the easiest hookup. Otherwise you'll likely need a more expensive optical to RCA converter box.

Ugreen Gold Plated 3.5mm to 2RCA Audio Auxiliary Stereo Y Splitter Cable (6ft) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LM2Y2U4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_s.hoybTRY8KHP

EDIT 2: like this one. Musou Digital Optical Coax to Analog RCA Audio Converter Adapter with Fiber Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AWBA8U8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MaioybPMHMGQ0

EDIT 3: at second thought, the box will probably be a better choice.

Well I record my PO-20 using this interface and this wire. It's all worked perfectly well for me.

I know why this happens, but it's a bit boring. (I can explain it if you want).

​

The work around is to take the Left/Right signal your are currently running into the the 2-channel input on your speakers, and split it, and feed it into the green and black inputs on the 6-channel input on your speakers.

​

You'll need the following adapters to make that work:

• 1x 3.5mm TRS Female to dual RCA Female
  
• 1x 3.5mm TRS Male to dual 3.5mm TRS Female
  
• 2x 3.5mm stereo cable (what the kids call Aux cable)
  
  -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
  
  
• Take the RCA connectors that your are currently plugged into your speakers, plug them into the RCA adapter.
  
• Plug the male side of the 3.5mm splitter into the female connector on the other end of the RCA adapter.
  
• Plug in an aux cord from each of the female connectors and plug one into the Green port and one into the black port on your speakers.
  
• What this does is directly sends the Left/Right audio to both the front and back speakers.

I have had the same problem as you, though I don't think we have the same setup. I connect via HDMI to my monitor, then by AUX cable to my computer's Line-in and then to my speakers/headphones via computer.

I tried a ground loop isolator, which mitigated the problem. It's not that expensive so you can try it for cheap. Here's the one I got.

What solved the issue was just a better aux cable. I bought an Amazon Basics cable and the static noise was gone. Here's the one I got.

I beta-tested the /u/Biblos_Geek headphone and pretty much I found the same positive results listed by the other reviewers I just read here.

I will mention what I purchased to pair up the 2E1+Vibe to make it work. The headphone to me was free but I purchased these parts to make it work (costs may have changed on Amazon since my purchase).

Class D amp at $22

3.5mm audio splitter $5

3.5mm male to male cable $5

So my costs out of pocket were under $35 (give or take). Set up was fairly simple - no more difficult than wiring up a TV with external speakers. I am profoundly deaf in one ear and somewhat normal hearing in my other working ear. I would be willing to beta_test for this again if asked. So a positive experience over all.

$40: Howard Leights

$12: Retevis PTT Mic

$5: Amazon 3.5mm Aux

$57 total to flesh out your radio setup.

At the time that wasn't the intention. You could probably just get any cassette player and a headphone jack extension to do that for you.

Seriously, avoid any and all analog equipment that is marketed towards "ripping" or "converting" analog audio to digital. That stuff is marketed to aging Baby Boomers who don't know any better and intend to have their analog music played "one last time" before it's digital forever. It's a scam, and those things never work.

You'll need 2 female to 2x female 3,5mm y-splitter cables, like these.
Also you'll need 4 male to male 3,5mm cables, like these.

My tips:

Things to bring

• Bring a USB Cigarette car charger - Link
  
• Cell phone dash holder - Link
  
• Headphone cable - Link
  (Listen to your jams while driving)
  
• Some snacks (stop at Trader Joe's or similar store)
  
• Bottle water
  
• Map of the region (Yes we have internet.. but not everywhere)
  
• Plastic bags as you acquire them (at the grocery store, gas station, etc.. work great for garbage)
  
  
  Tips for Rental Cars
  
  
• Don't get the insurance
  
• Don't get the insurance
  
• Get there 20-30 minutes early and be nice to the guy/gal. It's going to be a busy time for them and they will have a lot of angry people. Usually if you're nice they will upgrade you to a large vehicle because they have too many reservations and not enough stock on lot.
  
• Don't rent from the airport, always go to a lot off site.
  
• Be sure to do the walk around, it's as much for you as them.
  
• Do not pre-pay gas. Just fill it up to where it was before dropping it off. I always keep an eye out for the closest gas station before I leave.
  
• Double check you got all your stuff. Even if you have to make a list. I've found all sorts of stuff in cars that even the detailers missed.
  
  
  I travel/road trip quite a bit; If you've got any other questions, please let me know.
  

I think someone like this

The 1/4 inch sides would go into your mp11 outputs and the RCA would plug into your amp.

Use this:

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CPR201-Dual-Cable-3-25/dp/B000068O16/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1323591814&sr=1-5

You don't need TRS, TS (tip/sleeve) will be just fine. You are coming out of the mixer with only 2 wires, you would short the ring to the sleeve anyway with proper wiring practices.

Get a RCA to 1/4" stereo cable, like this http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000068O16

The LSR305's can be a bit tricky to get the best out of them. The ideal cheap way to connect them is to use a cheap DAC like this plugged into your USB on the PC, and then a cable like this going from the DAC to the speakers.

Otherwise, you can use a cable like this and go straight from your PC to the speakers. Just know that on-board audio from PC's tend to have noisy analog connections. If something is playing it probably wont be noticeable, but expect a little more hiss/noise this route. A little might be unavoidable, do to the high power built in amplifier.

Try not to let all this scare you off though, they really are a fantastic desktop setup.

sorry i was looking up scarlett 18i20, not scarlett solo.

yes find RCA to 1/4" cables like these https://www.amazon.ca/Hosa-Cable-CPR201-Dual-Inch/dp/B000068O16/ref=asc_df_B000068O16/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=293003920492&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10072924409480471477&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001598&hvtargid=pla-442288092897&psc=1

looks like the solo has the same output bus for the headphone amp and monitor outputs (one volume control for both). the rest of my reply still applies (don't use headphone outputs for speakers!)

i think ima go with the Monoprice Desktop DAC/amp with these cables

thanks for the help

edit: these were 70 instead of 100 just a month ago :/

Dual TS to RCA:

>Hosa CPR-201 Dual 1/4" TS to Dual RCA Stereo Interconnect Cable, 1 Meter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O16/

Hm, I'm not sure why the RCA-RCA connection wouldn't work in this case, but I'm not super experienced with hifi amps.

Other things you could try:

• headphone out -> Aux input
  
• balanced 6.3 outputs -> 2x TRS to TRRS cable -> Aux input
  
  
• 6.3 outputs -> 6.3 to RCA cable -> RCA input
  
  
• RCA outputs -> RCA to 3.5mm TRRS -> Aux
  
  basically I have no idea why it doesn't work as is, but maybe one of these things will? The most basic thing I would troubleshoot is that you can get output from the RCA outs on your 2i4 at all

Then this is what you probably need. The TRS (big headphone jacks) will plug into the middle of your front inputs on your Scarlett. Pan the left input to the left channel and the right one right, and your in business.

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-HOS-CPR201-Dual/dp/B000068O16

a DAC or not depends on your Motherboard. I'd try it without a DAC first and hear for yourself if you need one.

If you need a DAC, you'll most likely need an RCA to 1/4 which will Connect the DAC to your Current AMP.

With the turn table as well and assuming you have the Yamaha HS8 sub to go with the HS5's, I would go simple.

This to mix the two together:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/331962-REG/Rolls_MX42_MX42_Mini_Stereo_Mixer.html

2 RCA Y Splitters for the Output:

http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=663

Then 2 of these (so 4 total RCA to 1/4"):
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-HOS-CPR201-Dual/dp/B000068O16

2 for the sub L/R and 1 for each speaker.

The outputs are either balanced or unbalanced depending on whether you use ring-tip or ring-tip-sleeve plugs. For the SMSL amplifier, you would need a dual 1/4-inch to RCA adapter cable.

Hope this helps!

I guess the first question is what's the game audio source? Are you using a console or are you emulating on the PC?

I assume if you have a console you're using some kind of capture device so the game content can get to your PC.

If that's the case you have to split off the audio before you hit your capture box and go into the mixer. The red and white RCAs would probably be the quickest solution so get 2 f-f RCA splitters and then a dual RCA - TRS cable and patch into the line in or aux ins on your console.

If you're capturing over HDMI you might have to experiment and see if the console will also output audio seperately over the RCA jacks or if your capture box can split the audio from the signal. HDMI audio stripping is a pain in the ass and the boxes that do it cost money.

If you're emulating on the streaming PC you're much better off continuing to software mix. You could get a software mixer and then an interface to break out of the PC to run back into the mixer but that's going to add noise and cost more money than you need to spend.

I had some serious trouble finding a back-facing shot, and the specifications on tascam's website arent very specific, but according to this image: http://forum.ixbt.com/post.cgi?id=attach:90:1520:0:1 it looks like a RCA output (I have one on my behringer) and if so, the cheapest would be something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CPR-203-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O18 I got a similar product at guitar center and it works fine. There are also boxes you can get to balance the signal from the unbalanced RCA, but if you're on a budget, it should be fine.

Edit: also. This http://estaticos2.milanuncios.com/fg/1975/16/otros-instrumentos-musicales/Tarjeta-sonido-TASCAM-US-144-197516878_4.jpg definitely looks like an RCA

Wow you are so helpful, thank you.

So I think I've found a way that will work that involves less pieces. I cross posted this question in r/iphone here. The comments led me to this potential set up:

From my XDJ-RX's dual 1/4 TRS output, I'm going to have this male TS to male RCA cable going into the RCA input ports on the Behringer UCA202 (or UCA222), and then I will have that plug into the Apple Camera Connection Kit via USB, and then that goes into my phone. And THAT should get me a stereo signal.

Does that sound right to you? I'm like 95% sure that plugging two TS plugs into two TRS jacks (on the XDJ-RX) will only reduce the connection to unbalanced, but keep it stereo.

But it's good to know that if this setup doesn't work, the one that you suggested will. Finally this is all starting to make sense!

Please edit your post and remove the Zeos amazon affiliate links. Regular Amazon links are fine. Anything that has a "tag=" is a money-making affiliate link.

Also, I would say pick up a pair of JBL LSR305 speakers. They will sound much better and you can adjust their volume levels independently. They have amps built in already. Just purchase a pair of RCA to TRS/TS cables like these to connect them to the TV. You can use the same TV remote to control volume.

Here you go

Sorry if this is a silly question but would upgrading the Modi just allow it to do the same thing as my current modi but also act as a pre amp? Can you recommend a decent set of speaker stands?

I ordered the pre amp so we got that down.
Now I just want to make sure I've got it straight.
I need these cables for the speakers and these cables for the pre amp

One last question is how do I connect the stack to each other as the Modi 2 and Magni 2 only have one spot where you can plug in RCA cables and they run into each other. Would I just unplug the amp when I want to use my speakers?

As for the JBLs, don't stress over the TRS inputs; that isn't actually a different signal, just a different connector. You just buy a cable like this: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CPR-203-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O18

All you need is a bunch of cables like these https://www.amazon.co.uk/HosaTech-CPR-203-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O18. Plug them from your synths into the CD or Line inputs. No need to over complicate anything. Good luck!

It sounds like you need one of these?
RCA Audio Piggyback Cable
Or these?
RCA Y Splitter Adapter
Then go with one of these.
RCA to 3.5mm female
You will need amplified headphones also. You can power the headphone from the usb on the TV or use a USB wall block.
If this won't work for you it should get into the right area to search for something along these lines.

There are two good ways to do this:
Option 1:
Grab yourself a set of these. https://www.amazon.com/CableWholesales-Audio-Piggyback-Cable-Female/dp/B000I94FAE/
Plug the double sided end into your source, and then feed the other end to your speakers. You'll then plug another set of RCA into the open ends on the source and send them to your Sub.
Option 2: If you don't like using the windows volume control, then you'll get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/PAC-LC-1-Remote-Amplifier-Controller/dp/B0002J226O/
Also this: https://www.amazon.com/Link-BM105-Male-Barrel-Connectors/dp/B001NCDBEQ
The Barrel connectors will go into your source. Then plus the controller into the barrel connectors, then the piggyback cable into the other end of the controller. Then plug your RCA into backside of the Piggyback and put one set into the speakers, and one set into the sub.
Once you've chosen from the two options, you'll need to set up the speaker and the sub so the volume matches.
To do that I would turn the computer audio up to maximum. Then, turn your speakers up as loud as you would ever comfortably listen to them. Then get your subwoofer gain and crossover where you want it. You will then use your PC volume/or the control nob to control the volume of both of them. If you use the control nob, your PC volume will always be at max.
EDIT: You might also need this to get the sound from your motherboard audio out to RCA: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-105597-3-Feet-Premium-Stereo/dp/B0094A1F3S/

It looks like the Z506 takes in line-level input via some 1/8" headphone jacks or RCA. That means at the very least you will need a powered sub, or an amp and passive sub. Since the speakers don't have any outputs, you are looking at a weird setup that will likely have volume balance problems between everything.

If you are using the RCA connections, you could split the signal between your speakers and this guy.

If you are using the headphone style connections, this is a tad more complicated. If you are using 3 plugs for 5.1 surround sound, I think the sub channel is one one of the pins in the orange connector. If you are using just one connector (stereo, you probably are plugged into the green) you will need to get even more adapters.

Overall, I don't recommend any of the above. If you need something to be louder, you need better speakers.

You can split the signal coming out of your computer with a 3.5mm splitter or use an RCA piggyback cable to run into the sub. The problem with this is you can only change the volume with your source no the amplifier. If the sub has both input and outputs for your speakers like this Dayton Sub 1000 you can run the signal from the amp to the sub then back to the speakers. This would allow you to still control the volume with the amplifier if you wanted to.

For recording, I have a composite piggyback cable (one female into two males, i.e. a three-pronged version of this) that I send to my CRT and USB connector. All's well, but at my apartment, we typically keep my wii connected to our HDTV/sound system (my roommates tell me there are apparently other games people play on the wii besides smash) and so whenever I play (frequently) I have to pull my CRT out of the closet, and move the wires from our intricately wired sound system box to the back of the CRT.

I'm considering purchasing a second piggyback wire so that the wii can go to both the HD TV as well as my CRT, so I don't have to constantly re-wire things and so that I can have my CRT live by our entertainment system. Would there be any problems with lag or signal if I were to have the wii feeding out to three connections through all of these piggybacks? When I play I'll be keeping the HDTV off, and won't be recording much.

I can't believe no one gave you a real response. Buy this and this. Plug the S-video part in to the capture card and the yellow cable in to your TV. Use these to split the audio. Easy cheap recording setup for melee.

Is something like this or this what you're looking for? One is single male to dual female, and the other is single female to dual male.

Does your turntable have a built in preamp? If so, you can't run in into the Phono input with the preamp running, most allow you to bypass the built in preamp with a switch on the back so you can plug it into a phono input. You could always use these type of piggyback cables (not recommending this brand, just the first one that came up on amazon).

Sorry hadn't seen those before...

All you are trying to do is get the preamp signal at line level to the Speakers and Subwoofer. So all you'll need to do is split the TT output.

Plug one of these into the TT and the other into the Speakers and Subwoofer

or

Plug the single end of this cable into the TT. Plug the the other end into the Sub. Piggy back another RCA out of it and run that to the speakers.

Basically you would buy this from Amazon and use the splitter cable that comes with the X11's to plug the Xbox into VGA port of the monitor and switch back and forth from DVI for PC and VGA for XBOX.

Also purchase this in order to tie your xbox audio into the built-in speakers in case you don't want to use your headset.

I've used this exact setup for both of my nephews :)

You could go from the Xbox rca output to a cheap Fiio amp. Or you could get a dac/amp combo that supports toslink.

http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E5-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B001P9EQH8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1324088821&sr=8-1

http://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Cable/dp/B0018MI5F6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1324088830&sr=8-4

http://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Cable/dp/B0018MI5F6/ref=sr_1_2?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1324298178&sr=8-2

$2.69, no shipping cost with Amazon Prime (probably qualifies for free super saver shipping too).

I bought one of these Xbox VGA adapters a few months ago, and it works like a champ.
If you get one of these RCA to Stereo adapters, you can run the sound into your computer's sound-in port and play your game sounds through your computer speakers.

Assuming your N64 is using the standard Composite A/V cable, you'd plug the yellow into the "SIDEAV" port for video.

If your TV doesn't have any audio inputs, you'll have to handle sound separately. Do you have a set of speakers with aux inputs? Some of them will take the Red/White RCA cables directly, but most will at least have a 3.5mm input in which case you'd need an adapter like this.

It's just a printing thing on the back. The 3.5mm port works as a strange hybrid COAX digital (SPDIF) INPUT on one channel, with ANALOG (full range) mono subwoofer OUTPUT on the other channel when you plug a standard 3.5mm stereo male (TRS) to dual RCA (Y adapter) into it, regardless of the indicated printing.

EXAMPLE:

• https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-40645-Adapter-Compliant/dp/B000J1H4VI
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-Stereo-Female-Adapter-Y-Cable/dp/B0018MI5F6
  
  
  Alternatively, like a Mac's old 3.5mm headphone jack or a Chromecast Audio's output - That port can ALSO function as a optical SPDIF (Mini TOSLINK) connection - When a mini TOSLINK cable is inserted, it becomes another INPUT.
  
  EXAMPLE:
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Toslink-Mini-Feet/dp/B00JLTURKE
  
  This would give you a second optical input, but render the subwoofer output unuseable.
  
  Also, the DSP is complete shit. Stay away from the silly preset EQ modes!
  
  ---------------
  
  EDITED - don't gamble on the earlier version having a sub out - I had read they're all the same except for the printing, some people say otherwise.

If your TT has built in stereo phono cables, use this adapter to plug it into your speakers. http://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-3-5mm-Male-Female-inch/dp/B0018MI5F6

If there are no built in cables and instead just two phono jacks on the back, use this. http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Stereo-Design-accommodates-SmartPhones/dp/B004YEBK66

Your TT has a built in phono preamp, so make sure that's switched on and you should be good to go.

I see there is a Phone/Line switch. Since the cable is not removable this should do, right?

https://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-Stereo-Female-Adapter-Y-Cable/dp/B0018MI5F6

Meh... Both 70 and 50 bucks as suggested in comments is a lot.

Buy something like this, connect the classical (not HDMI one) cord to PS3, connect audio cinches with that converter and plug any headphones without microphone you can find (I use ones that cost like 10 bucks). You need to select audio output to the regular cable, not HDMI, in the PS3 menu but that's a piece of cake ;).

I'm really surprised at how terrible advice you guyz are giving him. I mean, 40-50 bucks just to use headphones on PS3? It's ok if he wants to invest 40-50 bucks but if he wants it to be as cheap as possible, this is a very easy solution.

Edit: Now, you will need both RCA (cinches) females and headphone jack female. I can't find this option on amazon at the moment but you can do with female cinches and male jack as long as you buy female-female jack connector.

I had the same issue, give me a sec and I'll like the one that worked. It needs to be a truly active one, and that would require a USB connection to power it. If it doesnt specifically state it can handle 120hz and greater, then it will not support 120hz and greater.

[This is the one I have] (https://www.amazon.com/Accell-B087B-002B-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Dual-Link/dp/B002ISVI3U/ref=pd_sim_23_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41YEgS06HRL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=4AQMZ0EENKCB7DDYZJ20), I should have done more research when buying my monitor as it doesn't even have HDMI 1.4 or newer to support 120hz, so the price of this definitely hurt, but it works.

I really want to be wrong because an 80 buck adapter would suck to require, but I swear when I was researching this I read that you have to make absolute sure your adapter is an active one or it won't enable 144 hz.

Something like this:

You can tell it's an active one because it plugs into a usb for a power input to enable the 144 hz conversion.

You need a DisplayPort to dual link DVI-D adapter, single link ones won't work. Cheapest reliable one is this https://www.amazon.com/Accell-B087B-002B-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Dual-Link/dp/B002ISVI3U/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1469966520&sr=8-12&keywords=displayport+dual+link+dvi, cheaper ones work by just running single link faster, which won't work with the chip used on generic korean monitors.

https://www.amazon.com/Accell-B087B-002B-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Dual-Link/dp/B002ISVI3U

I've read issues with adapters on various forums, so I would just wait for the AIB cards to come with the DVI port though.

Buyers should note that this monitor can only do 1080p144hz over Dual Link Dvi, and it only has 1 DVI + 1 VGA input.

Dvi is being phased out in favor of Displayport, so your future mileage out of the monitor may vary unless you buy adapters

Active powered Displayport to Dual Link Dvi adapters are expensive.

https://www.amazon.com/Accell-B087B-002B-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Dual-Link/dp/B002ISVI3U/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1466762921&sr=8-5&keywords=displayport+to+dual+link+dvi

I no expert but i found this on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Accell-B087B-007B-DisplayPort-Dual-Link-Adapter/dp/B002ISVI3U?th=1 its says that it works at 1920x1080 @ 120Hz for 3D LCD , but i don't know if it will work with out a 3D monitor or not.

There are powered display port to dual link DVI adapters but they're crazy expensive and don't always work, like this one. HDMI can't support anything over 60hz unless you have a 1.4 / 2.0 compatible monitor / gpu in which case it supports 1080p 120hz. Looks like you may have to get a new gpu unless you want to get the adapter.

Don't worry, I bought one, it works just fine. :)

https://www.amazon.fr/StarTech-com-C%C3%A2ble-adaptateur-Mini-DisplayPort/dp/B002XVYZ82?ie=UTF8&ref_=pe_386181_136557051_TE_item

I use this without issue
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Mini-DisplayPort-Adapter-Cable/dp/B002XVYZ82

I don't get it. Why can't you just leave your monitor hooked up like it is and connect your GPU to your Vive breakout box with a DisplayPort to Mini DisplayPort cable? I've been using this cable since I got my system two months ago and it's been working fine.

Assuming the GPU supports DP v1.2 yes.

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Mini-DisplayPort-Adapter-Cable/dp/B002XVYZ82

The above cable would work flawlessly for you (again assuming your GPU is v1.2 and not v1.1a)

v1.2 supports "...a single display, this enables up to 3840 x 2400 resolution at 60Hz" per the VESA standard.

No HDMI adapter will make this work. No matter what the vendor says, HDMI can't output 4k @ 60hz. Active, passive and even gold plated with leprechauns just won't help.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i3-6300 3.8GHz Dual-Core Processor | $141.99 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-H110M-A Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $49.99 @ Amazon
Memory | Corsair Vengeance LPX 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $29.99 @ Newegg
Storage | OCZ TRION 150 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $57.99 @ Newegg
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB Superclocked Video Card | $99.99 @ Newegg
Case | Fractal Design Core 1000 USB 3.0 MicroATX Mid Tower Case | $29.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA 430W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply | $14.99 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) | $87.95 @ OutletPC
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $562.88
| Mail-in rebates | -$50.00
| Total | $512.88
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-03-05 23:04 EST-0500 |

Skylake i3 is better.

DDR4 RAM is faster.

This has a 240GB solid state, which should hold your OS and several of your favorite games. I use Win10 and a 120GB SSD, I can have about 4 games on my PC at once. I assume you'll still be using your mac for media, so this is a pretty good choice.

I like 750Ti's better than r7 265s, but the choice is yours at the same price. Good luck finding benchmarks to compare the two.

Stuff you're gonna need:

Mini displayport to displayport cable: $7.99 (hey, that's not so bad)

"Switcher" able to handle a digital displayport signal: $75.99

Honestly with your budget, why are you trying to spend $76 when you could unplug and replug 3 cables for free?

According to this spec sheet, you can run the monitor over HDMI at 30Hz. This is likely due to the fact that the port is only HDMI 1.4 and not HDMI 2.0 (which is necessary to run the monitor at 60Hz).

That said, your best bet is to get an mini-DP to DisplayPort adapter cable (like this one). Thunderbolt cables are more pricey and don't provide any benefit unless your monitor supports Thunderbolt (which may allow you to use the display as a dock) / Thunderbolt pass-through to another TB device.

A Displayport to Mini Displayport cable should cost much less than that.

http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Mini-DisplayPort-Adapter-Cable/dp/B002XVYZ82/

I use a mini displayport to display port cable for my vive without issue. The cable i use is this one.

StarTech.com 6 ft Mini DisplayPort to DisplayPort 1.2 Adapter Cable M/M - DisplayPort 4k with HBR2 support - 6 feet Mini DP to DP Cable https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002XVYZ82/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_UshRzbRPP3ASP

Alright, so I chose this
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00B19T7QC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE
and this
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002XVYZ82/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE

I should get 144hz then. Thanks for the help man you just saved me like £50 :D

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002XVYZ82?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

I have a 2014 MBP, and used that cable, it worked perfectly at 60 hz:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B002XVYZ82/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1417413013&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

I got mine last week. It does come with a display port cable, although the GTX690 uses mini display port, you will need a mini display port cable to display port. I recommend this one http://amzn.com/B002XVYZ82 I have 2 gtx Titans hooked to mine. Look on tftcentral for the "optimized" monitor settings. Something like -Racing mode, 26 Brightness, then the RGB settings. Monitor is in freaking credible. Also, just to give you a heads up, the light for gsync will stay red (meaning enabled) even at the desktop. This is a confirmed bug nvidia is working on so don't spend the hours I did to troubleshoot. lol also, when gsync is turned on, it also turns vsync on in the nvidia control panel. This is normal. Vsync kicks on after 144 fps and gsync handles everything up to 144fps. All this is normal and fine. Disable vsync in game though. I'll post a video in a second for you of the clarity O.O

It's unlikely Hsu would put his subs on sale. They're what he's known for. You can call and ask him. He answers his own phone, and he's a really nice guy. He might even cut you a deal, if you're buying a sub and bookshelves together. He might not, too. But, hey...might as well ask!

So you're using your phone? If you're using your phone as a source, connecting through bluetooth to your integrated amp or amp/DAC combo, then you won't need anything else. I believe the Elac integrated amp has full bluetooth support. The Emotiva TA-100 has the firmware to support bluetooth, but you have to buy a dongle for it...so, there's another $15 or so.

That should be all you need, though, to get started. There's no end to the money you can spend on audio equipment, once you've decided to develop the habit. But to make music, all you need is something to take the signal from your phone and turn it into an analog signal, something to amplify that analog signal, and something to turn the analog signal into sound.

Oh, you'll need speaker wire. At least 16 gauge...lower numbers mean thicker wire, which means better transmission, generally. But don't go crazy with super-expensive speaker wire. And you'll need a cable to run from your pre-amp out to your subwoofer.

https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-16AWG-Speaker-Plated-Banana/dp/B00I52I2PU

You'll need 2 of those.

https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-Subwoofer-Cable-Feet/dp/B003FVYXY0

You'll need one of those.

Despite the fact that both speakers seem to be a similar price, the Inclines will considerably cheaper and closer to your budget once you account for cables and a subwoofer (provided you actually need one).

Regardless of what you buy, I suggest first trying the speakers without a subwoofer to hear whether you actually miss the last bit of low frequency sound. Both of my suggestions produce fairly low bass, JBL 305 rated at 43 Hz +/- 3 db and who knows about the Inclines as Def Tech doesn't report frequency response using the standard +/- 3 db (most likely they reach somewhere in the 50s?).

For the 305s, you are less likely to need a sub. Also, connecting a sub to the monitors can be complicated and will depend upon your overall setup. A related issue is whether you will be using an external digital-to-analog converter (DAC) - I recommend you do so for the improved sound quality and that you get one with a volume control. I think the best value approach is buy a pro audio interface - these have a DAC, volume control, and the types of cable connections that would facilitate mating your monitors and sub, plus other features that are used by recording musicians. I have the Steinberg UR22 (paid about $115 shipped new off ebay) but you can do fine with cheaper options: Lexicon Alpha has been recommended https://www.amazon.com/Lexicon-2-Channel-Desktop-Recording-Studio/dp/B000HVXMNE/ref=sr_1_6?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1472738288&sr=1-6&keywords=audio+interface or the Behringer UCA202 https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_5?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1472738288&sr=1-5&keywords=audio+interface

I went ahead and got the matching JBL LSR310S, but it is expensive ($400 usually but I got mine new on ebay for $279). It was worth it to me as I work from home and listen to some electronic music. Here are ebay listings now: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=jbl+lsr310s&_sop=15 Monoprice has a studio sub at $220 that would work (http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=115&cp_id=11504&cs_id=1150401&p_id=605999&seq=1&format=2 For cable connections it will depend on what audio interface you get (suggest you buy cables from Monoprice for their support - don't bother with Guitar Center or similar places as their cable prices are very high), however, I think you need the following: for the Behringer you have to use unbalanced connections, qty 4 TRS male x RCA male cables, a) connect the interface to your computer with the supplied USB cable, b) then connect the interface input to the sub input using two (left & right) male TRS x RCA cables, and c) then two more male TRS x RCA (one each, L&R) from the sub output to the 305s input. For the Lexicon Alpha, you would connect in a similar manner but can use balanced connections, total of 4 male TRS x male TRS.

For the Inclines and in considering your initial budget goal, you could go with any of the budget subs. My son has the Dayton SUB-800 http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sub-800-8-80-watt-powered-subwoofer--300-627 ($99 - $5 Labor Day coupon + $6.95 shipping). I'd spend another $20 and get the Dayton SUB-1000 because it supposedly goes down to 30 Hz http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sub-1000-10-100-watt-powered-subwoofer--300-628 You would need a subwoofer cable for the connection, such as https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-Subwoofer-Cable-Feet/dp/B003FVYXY0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1472740255&sr=8-3&keywords=subwoofer+cable

As I mentioned before, one the nice things about the Incline is that it has a built-in DAC; however, the "manual" isn't very helpful - this review does a good job of explaining the source input hierarchy and how to engage the DAC (there isn't an input selection switch so you have to unplug cables to make sure the DAC overrides your computer onboard sound card - in any case, use the USB input or optical for DAC): http://www.audioholics.com/computer-speaker-reviews/definitive-technology-incline-desktop-speakers-review

You will need HDMI cables to connect your sources (Xbox, AppleTV, etc...) to your Receiver. Another HDMI cable out from your Receiver and into your TV. And speaker wire to connect your speakers to your receiver. You will need wire strippers.. And an RCA coax cable to connect your sub to receiver

EDIT: Since it sounds like you're a beginner with setting up AV equipment, read through your TV and Receiver owner's manuals. There should be diagrams and hookup instructions.

After several months and hundreds of dollars I think I'm complete!

Turntable:
Kenwood KD-40R. One day I asked my dad if he had a turntable and this is what started it all. We found it in the attic, original box and in great shape. Replaced the needle and I was good to go. (Minus not having anything else, of course)

Speakers:

• Polk TSi 100 Bookshelf Speakers (Ebay, $100)
  
  Sub:
  
  
• Polk PSW10 (Newegg shell shocker, $80)
  
  Stands:
  
  
• Sanus Systems Wood Speaker Stands
  
  Receiver (hidden behind tv):
  
  
• Onkyo TX-NR509 Network Receiver. This thing is freaking awesome. I got it on sale from Amazon for $150. I control it with my phone, stream music from my phone, run the computer/turntable/game consoles through it.
  
  Cables:
  
  
• Dayton Audio SCP-6 6 Feet Speaker Cable Pair with Bananas.
  
  
• Mediabridge Sub Cable
  
  Preamp:
  
  
• Behringer PP400
  
  

Hi all -- long time lurker, first time poster.

Anyway, I'm looking for tech help regarding connecting my subwoofer to my speakers.

I have a Pioneer SW-8MK2 Andrew Jones Designed 100-Watt powered subwoofer.

I have Klipsch R-15PM Powered Monitor speakers.

Both are individually powered (obviously). To connect speakers to subwoofer, therefore, I just need an RCA cable. There's a single RCA input specifically labeled for connection to a subwoofer located on the back of the right Klipsch speaker.

Now, here's the slightly odd part. Instead of having a single RCA input on the subwoofer, the subwoofer instead has L and R dual red/white RCA inputs.

After reading extensively on how to connect this (read: booklet that came with subwoofer and internet) I discovered that it's perfectly fine -- and expected -- to use a single RCA cable, plug into the Klipsch subwoofer RCA input and then connect just into the "L" / white RCA input on the subwoofer.

So, I bought this RCA cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003FVYXY0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and tried connecting the subwoofer to the speakers. Subwoofer clearly turns on, speakers work fine but subwoofer isn't 'firing.' I tried turning volume on subwoofer up, and increasing the frequency to no avail.

Here's the frustrating part: in attempting to resolve the problem, I found myself pushing the RCA cable harder into the "L" / white input and ... the subwoofer STARTED WORKING! However, as soon as I released the additional pressure pushing the RCA cable into the "L" / white input, the subwoofer loses the 'connection,' and fails to continue emitting sound.

So, I figured that it was the cable's design preventing the RCA cable from completely getting a secure connection... so I ordered this cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DI89EZI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. I hook it up and it seems that the cable is able to go further into the subwoofer input this time, but, no dice, same thing happens, connect them normally, no subwoofer, but if I go and push the L OR R input on the subwoofer harder and subwoofer works.

Is there something particularly funky about this subwoofer that requires a VERY specific RCA cable to work properly? Or is it that the RCA inputs on the subwoofer are defective? Should I return the subwoofer, or does someone have this subwoofer and know of an RCA cable that works?

Thanks for reading this and taking your time to help a newbie.

Thanks for the info. Sounds like I need to decide on the type of mic I want.

​

I'm assuming I could theoretically purchase an extender if I went with a desktop mic? Would this work: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NO73MUQ?ref_=ams_ad_dp_ttl

​

I'm trying to make sure I have everything covered.

Thanks for the help man!

This is exactly what I use:

AmazonBasics 3.5mm Male to Male Stereo Audio Aux Cable - 4 Feet (1.2 Meters) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NO73MUQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gBg7Ab1GYVBTV

Insulation is just slick enough to not snag on everything, it's super-lightweight, and everything actually feels like it was thoughtfully put together. For an alternative, you could go with Anker (whom I use for all my Lightning and USB cables), but that would really be down to available stock and personal preference.

You want a male-male 3.5mm stereo cable, commonly called an Aux cable. Amazon link

That's quite odd - I've never heard of such a MiniDP->DP adapter limited to 1080p. I suspect that is a packaging error where they re-used the same language from the brand's miniDP->HDMI adapter.

The simplest approach is to just get a miniDP->DP cable like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Rankie-Plated-DisplayPort-Resolution/dp/B00YOQYQWY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1483665382&sr=8-2&keywords=mini+dp+dp+cable

Then there is no signal insertion loss from any adapters and less crap to go wrong. Now what will you do with the useless DP->DP cable that came with the monitor? ;)

I did know that but forgot, so thanks. Something like this?: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rankie-Plated-DisplayPort-MiniDP-Resolution/dp/B00YOQYQWY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511721995&sr=8-1&keywords=miniDP+to+DP+cable

Nevermind, missed the SB[2]. Depending on the monitor, 3.0 to HDMI Video Graphics Adapter with Audio for Multiple Monitors up to 2560x1440 for around $20.


Depending on the monitor, the most you might need is an mDP to HDMI (preferably active) adapter for about $18 or maybe a Mini DP to DP Cable for $9 if your monitor supports it. If you start to think multi-monitor (screen real estate) I'm a fan of the Microsoft Dock, which gives you two mDP and other nice features like 4 full-powered USB 3.0 ports.

Is the displayport cable included?

Edit: Seems like it isn't, I haven't found it and it's not on the contents paper. Which cable would work for this? Would this work, or is it the wrong direction?

Welcome! I have a few suggestions that might help you out

• For you connectivity issues- you can get a cheap $10 displayport to mini displayport cable so your display can stay on HDMI. It seems you already know that, but hopefully you won't need your workaround very long
  
  
• For the sickness, have you set the IPD (Inter pupillary distance) on your HMD? There's a small knob on the right. You can measure this yourself with a ruler and a mirror, or have your optician do it. I noticed when I didn't have mine right that I'd get a headache and nausea after exiting VR.

Check the ports on your GPU and look what gets shipped with the monitor.
My GPU only has a miniDP (its basically the same, just different formfactor) but my monitor only came with a standard-sized DP cable so I also had to order a "DP to miniDP"-cable aswell.

Make sure this doesnt happen to you.

PS: In terms of brand I wouldn't worry too much. Just go to amazon or something and take one around 10 bucks.... like this one for example

this is the cable i have used with the Vive without issue

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Rankie-Plated-DisplayPort-Resolution/dp/B00YOQYQWY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479937740&sr=8-1&keywords=dp+to+mini+dp+cable

Well, you did just buy a new expensive monitor so there's no reason not to spend a couple extra bucks on a good cable. TBH I'd get a cable with significantly more reviews like the one I linked below.

If you do end up getting a cable that doesn't work (assuming you checked the spec if it's listed) Amazon's return policy would probably cover it.

I actually got that same monitor a couple days ago and my gpu only has 2x mini DP (and hdmi/dvi) and this cable works fine for me https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YOQYQWY. However my HD 7770 doesn't support freesync. (I'm getting a new 480 soon!)

This cable on Amazon totally fixed it for me: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YOQYQWY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

(Thanks to the suggestion in this forum: http://forums.macrumors.com/threads/dell-u2715h-and-sierra-cannot-get-2560x1440-via-dhmi.1984770/)

AmazonBasics DisplayPort to HDMI Display Cable - 6 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015OW3M1W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_prKnDbQ726E0T

The 6 foot is out of stock but there's 10 feet and a few others if you are ok with the length. The 1080 should have at least 2 Display Port outputs. Use the Display Port to HDMI adapter for your monitor. Keep the direct HDMI connection for the Rift.

Check if you have a port to plug the HDMI cable from the odyssey in to. If you only have 1 HDMI port that's occupied by your monitor, buy this and use it to connect your monitor.

These work fine. https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-HDMI-Cable-Feet/dp/B015OW3M1W/ref=sxin_2?crid=2ODLJ98DXNQUD&keywords=displayport+to+hdmi&pd_rd_i=B015OW3M1W&pd_rd_r=1114dfec-e6db-4c42-8a81-23a0fcb0e7e7&pd_rd_w=dLBfx&pd_rd_wg=9rXYU&pf_rd_p=2f202bc2-a141-4742-bd82-9252d5485b34&pf_rd_r=4RE88PM8BBHF74W81F6Y&qid=1557344410&s=electronics&sprefix=dis%2Celectronics%2C134

I see what your saying! Yea, they do make HDMI to Display Port cables. Here's an Amazon Basics cable. They are usually pretty reliable and on the cheaper side. I would get a cable over an adapter just because that is one less "extra" thing that could have issues down the road.

You can get DP to HDMI cables. One like this is all you would need to get that second monitor up and running.

> do need a wireless network adapter.

Choosing a wireless adapter with Linux that functions well entirely relies on driver support for the wireless chipset more than the brand or model on the box.

Atheros chipset based wireless adapters are more often than not the best option available. Locating one can be challenging but they are available. the most modern atheros wireless driver for Linux is the ath10k Linux driver. Researching this module should reveal many options.

The wireless adapters available may not all be new but there are options for wireless cards that use that driver specifically

>Do I need amd hardware?

No

>Would intel be the way to go?

That has been mine and many others experience.

As mentioned previously Ryzen cpu's having severe hardware faults that can only be fixed by replacing the cpu.

This more recent issue with Ryzen based motherboards not yet being fully supported also solidifies Intel as the best available choice between brands.

Someone I helped this past weekend couldn't get thermal management drivers for his Ryzen motherboard to function properly. While some of the challenges are entirely as a result of experience anyone with similar amounts of experience could expeirence similar results from new amd based pc hardware.


>Forgive me for my lack of understanding, but why two harddrives? What does the sata SSD drive do?

SSD hard disks use NAND flash memory instead of spinning mechanical platters to store data and ssd's as a result are quite a bit faster with data throughout and responsiveness. Latency response times are significantly lower for SSD's to respond to data read and write requests however the total available storage space is also significantly lower as a result.

With the reduced storage space having a second mechanical disk with good performance and storage space is still beneficial.

Typically if your careful about where you install software having a 512 GB ssd you should never fill it to capacity running an OS install.

>Does the motherboard support an extra harddrive?

Yes absolutely. That motherboard has support for several hard disks and dual M.2 SSD drive expansion slots. M.2 SSD disks are the newest SSD form factor and the data transfer speeds they can offer are astounding however the cost per gigabyte is also significantly more.

>I'd like to hook up some sort of webcam and microphone. Do you have any thoughts on the best way of acquiring such? I've only ever used inbuilt systems in laptops.

I have an older model Microsoft Lifecam Cinema webcam that does have a microphone and also has working native open source Linux drivers. Newer webcams may be nicer and easier to locate such as a Logitech C930 but i'm unaware if native Linux driver support is available.

>It'd be really cool to have two monitors for my computer. Woud that motherboard support such?

That Asus motherboard can run up to three monitors using different display connectors with just the onboard video provided by the Intel CPU.

The EVGA videocard supports running four displays with proper connectors. I have three monitors on my pc with an nvidia evga 1070 graphics card using displayport to HDMI adapters easily located from amazon

The monitors I use are Acer H236HL models that offer very nice slim bezels and IPS LCD panels and support HDMI connections. These monitors are an older model acer however for the cost they are a fantastic economical option of you only require 1080p resolution. Here's a couple Linus Tech Tips reviews on these monitors.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BXX0cCWWDsU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ODGn3I9BIAo

Well you've got a subwoofer, and an amplifier that isn't meant to work with a subwoofer, so that's the bulk of the problem.

The TV has a headphone and an optical out... the Headphone output you can use with a 3.5mm to stereo RCA cable, which is good... but The BasX S8 has line level in and out, but that's only going to work with one source, so no matter what there are going to be sacrifices made, here.

​

Here is my proposed method:

​

• This optical cable out from television ($9)
  
• To THIS DAC ($20)
  
• This Chromecast Audio ($35) (or you could use a bluetooth adapter to play your phone, with lower quality audio)
  
• Using THIS Cable plugged into Chromecast Audio and to DAC ($12)
  
• TWO Sets of THESE RCA Cables ($9 each), one from DAC to Subwoofer's LINE LEVEL IN, one from Subwoofers LINE LEVEL OUT, to Yamaha AMP input
  
  Total cost: $95
  
  But you'd need to run an aux cable/bluetooth/chromecast audio to have phone input on the yamaha anyway. Obviously if you have any of these cables you can save the money. RCA cables are pretty easy to find. So are optical cables.
  
  If music is more important to you than tv sound, you could run the optical cable to the chromecast and the 3.5mm rca to coaxial from the headphone output of your tv... your choice.
  
  ​
  
  The dac needs to exist because your amp lacks bass management and a subwoofer output.
  
  You will then use the subwoofer's crossovers to control the bass it receives and what it is sending out to the amplifier, and your Q100's will get the rest.
  
  ​
  
  ​
  
  ​
  
  ​

Yeah, that will work.

And a cable like this: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-2-Male-RCA-Audio-Cable/dp/B01D5H8P0G/

The internal phono stage should be enough.

If you are concerned about the levels of the LP120 consider getting a better turntable without an internal phono stage. The quality of the internal phono stage in the LP120 is not great to begin with and either is the bypass switch that does not completely bypass it and supposedly adds a bit of noise when using an external phono stage/preamp. Some owners open up the case to bypass the phono stage and switch with a rewire and soldering.

An option without an internal phono stage is the Fluance RT82 $299. It has auto stop, an external belt drive, then an optical sensor speed controlled motor for lower wow and flutter and speed variation specs than the AT LP-120XUSB. A later optional upgrade is the acrylic platter as seen on the $500 RT85 for around $89 when Fluance gets it in stock. Skip the RT80 and RT81 that do not have the speed sensor. Then add an external phono stage/preamp. I use a Schitt Mani $129 phono stage with my RT82 and they sound great together. Plus an RCA interconnect cable.

A lower budget speaker alternative to the Edifiers is the $50 6-1/2" 2-Way Bookshelf Speaker Pair and Hi-Fi Mini Amplifier Bundle. Then you can later upgrade each part at a time. Maybe as you find a better used stereo or AV receiver or better used bookshelf speakers. Then use the original bundle system in another location with a Wifi receiver for streaming.

So first, to connect your DAC to your computer, you'll need a usb A to B cable like this one. Most printers come with one of these, so you may have on laying around that you're not using. Plug the A (regular USB) end into your laptop, and the B (the square one) into the USB input on the DAC.

Next, you'll need two RCA splitters like this, one for the left channel, and one for the right. Plug one into each of the outputs on the DAC (male end into dac, 2 female ends hanging free).

To connect the subwoofer, you just need a regular RCA cable like this. Just run one side of the cable from one of the ouptuts of the spitter connected to the left channel on the DAC to the left input of the sub, and the same for the right (after this, you should have one output used on each of the two splitters).

Finally, to connect your speakers, I think the simplest way would be with the RCA to XLR cables (sadly, you'll need two of them, so you'll have to pick up another). Just run one from the free output on each of the splitters on the DAC outputs to the XLR input on the appropriate speaker (left or right).

Obviously, for each cable, get whatever length is convenient for the positioning of all your components.

> Behringer U-Control UCA202

So, first off, you'll need some RCA to RCA cables.

The idea of a mix-minus is that you're looping the "output" back into the "input." Skype only hears the first input on your interface, so that's where you'll need to connect your microphone (unless you're using the built-in mic). The other output will need to be connected to the other input.

I'm not exactly sure how to set that up on your specific setup because I am not familiar with this interface. Most of them have some sort of software that allows to decide where to route audio, but I don't know the limitations of this one.

This is a good video that explains the basics of a mix-minus. I'd give that a watch.

The cable that you plug into your computer is 3.5mm, but the other end is a left and right rca plug (red and white) that plug into the speaker. This is a 3.5mm to rca adapter. What you would do is buy 2 rca Y splitters and 4 rca cables (buy 2 sets of red and white for less confusion example: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01D5H8P0G/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1521013079&sr=1-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&dpPl=1&dpID=51tDOqNZw0L&ref=plSrch)

What you do is unplug the rca end from the speaker and put a Y splitter on both the red and white rca ends of the adapter cable. Now plug your new rca cables into the Y splitters, make sure that both red cables go into the splitter on the red end of the adapter and that both white cables go into the splitter on the white end of the adapter. Now run one white cable and one red cable to the red and white inputs on your speaker. Run the other red and white cables to the red and white inputs on your sub.

Now the computer signal goes to both the speakers and the sub.

When I said split both channels, I meant put a Y splitter on both the red and white ends of your 3.5mm to rca adapter. Red is the right channel, white is the left channel.

As for you confusion about maintaining more quality. Because it is possible to put a splitter on just the left OR right channel, if you did this the sub would only play bass from the left or right channel. This means that if a song has bass frequencies playing in only the left channel, but your sub is only plugged into the right channel, your sub would not play those frequencies. I'm not saying that you will get better quality, I'm saying that you have to plug both red and white into your sub so that it plays all the bass it is supposed to.

The sub does not send a signal to the Edifiers. With the splitters, your computer sends 2 signals, one to the sub and the other to the Edifiers.

For anyone who bought the Lenovo Explorer MVR and need extension cable ideas. I have tested a HDMI and USB 3.0 cable that works.

AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to Female HDMI Extension Cable - 10 Feet https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01D5H91KE?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Extension Cable in Black 10 Feet https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00C7SA21U?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Every USB port and GPU will function differently. The USB wattage draw is high enough to drop the voltage some across the cable. Some USB ports start out at 5.2-5.3 volts and they work better. Most "front" USB 3.0 ports already have a 18-24 inch extension and don't perform as well. The 10ft cables below work perfectly for me on a high end x299 rig with the 5v USB 3.0 and 3.1 that tap off the 12v bus. On another rig but the same odyssey + Headset the sound cuts out.


These are the best for for me.
Cable Matters USB 3.0 Extension Cable in Blue 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008219UMI/

If the 10 foot has problems for you the 3ft or 6ft might work. Try the Cable on Each USB port first. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008219UMI/

AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to Female HDMI Extension Cable - 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/

Also the controllers need high voltage batteries. If you use really good Panasonic Oneloop Pro's even they can give problems. When those NiMh's get down to about 1.2-12.5 volts (Even with 60% charge left) The odyssey can trigger a low battery warning and switch to 60hz mode degrading performance. https://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-BK-3HCCA4BA-eneloop-Pre-Charged-Rechargeable/dp/B00JHKSL28/

The way around this is to run 1.6V NiZn Rechargeable cells instead. https://www.amazon.com/2500mAh-Rechargeable-Batteries-Battery-Charger/dp/B00WTRSTAU/

I've had an Odyssey for three weeks now with a 10 ft. HDMI and USB 3.0 extension. I had to use a powered 3.0 hub because I was having horrible tracking issues without one and random blue screens. I believe USB 3.0 is rated for a max of 900mA which I think can be tedious when using passive extensions. Here's what I bought :

Sabrent USB 3.0 powered hub: Link


AmazonBasics USB 3.0 extension : Link

AmazonBasics HDMI extension: Link

I just have the cable running along the floor adjacent to the wall that my desk sits next to so I haven't had the need for any mounting applications, can't help there I'm afraid. I'll be happy to try to help if you have any questions.

> I'm gonna need extensions.

I had good luck with 10 foot for each via Amazon.

• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > Overall, setup was 9/10, but I'm giving it 5/10 because of the issues I had.
  
  Similar here. I can see how it's supposed to be very smooth and quick, and I think re-establishing setup (if I were portable) would be very quick, but I had a number of issues that prolonged things.
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > This does require you to have a lit room
  
  This was disconcerting for me as well as preventing me from using VR sometimes since my VR area borders the den/living room and the breakfast nook and my wife often vetoed the turning up of all the lights (in the evenings).
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > Controller tracking 8/10
  
  I'd only give them 6/10. It's highly dependent on tolerance, body type, play style, and which game / experience you're using. My thoughts: https://www.reddit.com/r/WindowsMR/comments/7qlhde/samsung_odyssey_owners_are_you_happy/dsq5nh5/
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > You will notice some black smear
  
  I started noticing more of it as I dug back through my backlog of games and apps. The Quake II SteamVR environment, Allummette (the night scenes), and the large theater room in BigScreen are three places that had pretty awful black smear that I remember. In other places it was not noticeable though.
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > Colors are also very vibrant
  
  I agree, I thought the color pop was excellent and fun in the Odyssey, and simply made me want to try a lot of different things to see what they looked like.
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > I think it's a tad bigger at least for me
  
  Interesting, my buddy and I both thought his Vive with DAS and 6mm pad had the slight edge in terms of FOV, as well as amount of pupil swim, and there was something subtley not quite as impressive about either the binocular overlap or just the "closeness" of images in the Odyssey, but it was still very good and the great contrast and higher resolution made up for it.
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > The forehead pad and back pad are nice and comfortable with most of the weight resting on the forehead and off of the nose/cheek area.
  
  Eventually that forehead pad really started to dig into my forehead. I had a couple sessions that gave me real pain. Here was my solution: https://imgur.com/a/a9lqJ
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > The damn nose flaps.
  
  I totally agree! These would block about 70% of my nasal airflow! But there is an easy fix -- fold them back in behind the lenses. Works great, stays in place, and is easily reversible.
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > They are comfortable and easy to position.
  
  I found them a bit hard to get a good seal with. The DAS seems more articulatable which helps get a better on-ear seal which gives it the potential for a bit more perceived bass and therefore a bit more balanced frequency response. But neither holds up against my Audio-Technica ATH-M50s. I'm hopeful the Vive Pro audio addresses that a little more.
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > If you are looking for a portable VR experience with a laptop or like to travel and show others VR without having to set up lighthouses or cameras
  
  Yep, that is definitely the big benefit of the Odyssey. It can't be beat for that type of use case. It was kind of lost on me (no laptop, single permanent VR space at home), and I eventually decided due to the substandard controllers and controller tracking that it was worth more turned back into $486 so I returned it after 8 weeks due to Microsoft's very generous holiday return policy. I knew I'd miss it (certain aspects of it) and I do. If I were more into sims and had a driving setup it would have been a tougher call by far.
  
  I do hope they pull together a version with more cameras that can handle the controllers getting close to the cameras and operate in lower light. Best would be some way to give the controllers actual inside-out tracking of their own using their own cameras but that might require a prohibitively large amount of information sent over Bluetooth (BT 5.0?) to the CPU for the Machine Vision algorithm.

I bought the following to extend my Odyssey 10' and they are working very well

HDMI extension
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB 3.0 extension
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm using Amazon Basics USB and HDMI extension cables and they work fine for me

A few other things:

As others have mentioned, the Odyssey's tracking relies on the room having enough light for the cameras to see.

While the Vive works great in total darkness, you have to remember to turn on the lights at night to make the Odyssey track.

And one other thing I should mention is that the cable is a bit short on the Odyssey, I had to buy some extension cables from Amazon to be comfortable I wouldn't accidentally yank out or break the connectors.

I went with these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/

I am using this combo HDMI/USB 3.0 extension cable (10 feet). Don't need to worry about passive/active stuff, just plug and play. I have been using these for 3 weeks now and they are flawless.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thank you!

Yes all devices were recognized as 3.0. Here are the extensions:

USB

HDMI

Carabiners are useful. Clip one to a back belt loop on a pair of jeans/etc, then loop the cable through it. It goes a long way towards keeping the cable out of the way of your feet. It also cuts down on the amount of "tugging" you feel on your head as you pull the cable along behind you, which makes it feel a little less immersion-breaking.

> Do I need to get some extension cables to allow more freedom of movement further away from my PC? If so, which ones?

I think so, assuming you have the play space. Oculus has some recommended cables. I bought these 10ft extensions on Amazon and they have served me well with quite a few different headsets with no issues - HDMI and USB

However, it will be VERY obvious to you when you need the third sensor.You'll find yourself frequently facing the direction without sensors and visual glitches everywhere, trying to turn around and deal with whatever in game objective you were dealing with previously.

If your not experiencing this then wait :)

As a List (That you didn't ask for) for what I bought for Roomscale:4 port /w controller USB 3.0 card (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XPUHO10)Additional Sensor (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0727WDPX6) - Note this includes an 2.0 USB extension cable, 2.0 can stretch farther without signal loss.

**Extra Equipment**10 Ft HDMI extension (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE) - For the Oculus Headset16 Ft USB Active extension (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8) - For the Oculus headset

Hangers for the Oculus cable (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XY5WKXW) - this just gets the cables from under your feet, it is my favorite

Monoprice Certified Premium High Speed HDMI Cable, 6ft or 3ft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GCGKI3O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_zm59Q7XKhhohl

You probably need higher bandwidth HDMI cables if you're only getting 60 hz at 1080 p. I use these cables for my setup:

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-115428-Certified-Premium-18Gbps/dp/B01GCGKI3O

That's because high speed cables have at minimum 10.2 gbps bandwidth (this is the full bandwidth of the old HDMI 1.4 spec) and are not capable of the full 18gbps bandwidth of the HDMI 2.0 spec, required for 4k60.
Just like the port on your TV and on your source device need to be "4k60" the cable does as well.

When buying HDMI cables always look for the two keywords before buying:
18gbps (18 gigabytes per second), and 4k@60 (or just 4k60).
If you want to be extra sure, HDMI has a certification program, and cables that have passed are marketed as "Premium High Speed HDMI Cable". These certified cable will be able to handle everything that HDMI 2.0 could possibly throw at them. More on that, including how to ensure you are buying a genuine cable that was actually certified, here: https://www.hdmi.org/manufacturer/premiumcable/faq.aspx
Even if you are buying a certified cable still make sure it has the two keywords 18gbps and 4k@60.
These certified cables aren't even expensive, for example here is a 6ft monoprice premium certified cable i found with a 30 second Amazon search for $5.
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-115428-Certified-Premium-18Gbps/dp/B01GCGKI3O/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1543465057&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=premium+high+speed+hdmi+cable&dpPl=1&dpID=31vnewgtCfL&ref=plSrch

You can skip the rest of this comment if you want, it's just about why you should never buy expensive HDMI cables, bandwidth is only thing that matters.

(And by the way expensive HDMI cables are stupid. Since it's an error corrected digital signal, if you are getting a picture at all it is identical to what the source device sent out, same with audio. Bandwidth (18 gbps!) is the only thing that actually matters when buying HDMI cable, as that will dictate what features you can send down the cable (4k60, HDR, ect.) And if the cable actually gives you a picture and audio at all, rest assured it is bit for bit identical to what the source device sent. (Although there is an EXTREMELY RARE and EXTREMELY OBVIOUS issue, occasionally seen in cheap or damaged cables, that causes many pixels to be pure 255,255,255 white. You'd know if this was happening. If it looks normal, it's bit perfect signal.
And there is no audio version of this, if there is any issue with the audio at all it will not be played and you will hear nothing.
So don't let anyone tell you that more expensive HDMI cables have superior picture or audio, it's not true, the bandwidth is the only thing that will actually affect anything.)

Sorry for any typographical errors, I typed all this on a Razer Phone 2.

Club3d CAC-1080 adapter+Monoprice Certified Premium HDMI Cable

The reboots happened to me on the stock firmware 1.1.14.1 I went ahead and updated yesterday to 1.1.17.1 and haven't had one yet. I did get a black screen on the PS4 pro though. There's a video on Youtube where setting the PS4 TV settings to YUV420 fixed the black screen on his Vizio P. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hq9fzRtGCkc

I also read using a certified high speed cable from Monoprice fixed the black screen for some people. https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-115428-Certified-Premium-18Gbps/dp/B01GCGKI3O

That is a TRS adapter, it splits one audio source into two. You can tell by the male end because it only has three rings, left, right, and ground.

What you want is a TRRS adapter which is left, right, microphone and ground. They look like the ones I've linked below.


Here


And Here

If it's a combined mic and headphone jack, you'll need a splitter. Something like this will do, and there are dozens on amazon that won't break the bank.

I think it will, I use something similar with my HP: https://www.amazon.com/ENVEL-Convertors-Smartphone-Microphone-Simultaneously/dp/B01M0T6PSF

I'll second the 58x. It's what I upgraded to after using the 598's since the XBOne came out.

You'll need a microphone and a splitter, I use a Modmic with a Mic/Phones breakout. I'd buy two of those and keep the spare handy, as mine seems to give up the ghost every 6-12 months. I don't know if other splitters are better, but the one I linked is the 3rd one I've tried and it's the best so far.

EDIT: This probably should've been its own comment but whatevs.

Welcome! And, just in case, one thing you need to consider when shopping for a laptop to be used with skype/discord, or whatever, is what kind of headset or headphone/microphone setup you plan to use.

Quite a few modern laptops have a single combination 3.5mm audio/mic input. If this is the case (like with the higher-end ThinkPads), you may need an adapter/splitter like this to use a standard analog headset that has separate audio/mic cords.

Some laptops still have separate audio/mic jacks. Standard headsets or a headphone/microphone setup with separate audio & mic cords will work fine.

If you use a USB headset you don't have to worry about any of this, as they'll work as long as you have a free USB port.

Personally, I use a pretty cheap (but decent!) headset here that has separate audio/mic cords. My smaller X201 laptop has separate jacks, but when I use the headset with the combo jack on the T430S laptop I just use a splitter.

Just FYI!

You need something like this splitter to convert the Surface's 4-ring jack to a regular microphone jack.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0T6PSF

I'll tell you this: you're much better off with a USB microphone.

Something like this will also give you a real mic jack: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8

Not sure but from my research I have seen the Boya By-M1 and Sony ECM-CS3 in other videos recommendations so either should work.


Then buy an TRRS adapter like this one

I am copy-pasting the relevant portion from Help - Cosplay (from our audio recorder app which is for Android) - it relates to how to connect the earphone jack to an external microphone and external speaker - i.e. a setup suitable for cosplay (but will give you some idea of the options):

Quote:

Capabilities of the earphone jack on Android devices

The earphone jack on your device has pins for 2 channel (stereo) output, and 1 channel (mono) input. This is the case for both Android devices and iOS devices. That is, you can only have mono microphone input. This is why headsets have stereo earphones, but only one microphones (mono).

Here is a website with a good explanation of the earphone jack on your android device, and what the pins on the jack are used for (stereo out and mono in) - see the section - External microphone through the headset port.

Audio Recording With a Smartphone





Recommendations for Y-splitter cables and external speakers

For the external speaker, one with a wired connection will work, and these cost from 5 USD to 10 USD.

Y-splitters are also cheap (1 USD to 5 USD), but finding ones that actually work is more difficult (since headphone splitters look very similar, or the Y-splitter is made incorrectly).

Here is a combination of Y-splitter and external speaker that is recommended by cosplayers (the external speaker comes with a wearable directional microphone suitable for cosplay). These are costly, but known to work:



Manufacturer direct order links:

Rockit Y-splitter - Cost 11.95 USD



VoiceBooster MR1505 (Aker) 12watt Voice Amplifier - SKU: MR1505-12W - Cost 54 USD



VoiceBooster MR1506 (Aker) 10watt Voice Amplifier - SKU: MR1506-10W - Cost 48 USD




Y-splitters available on Amazon (we have not tested these)

ENVEL 3.5mm Jack Cable Adapter Kit Mutual Convertors for PC headset and Smartphone Tablet Earphone with Headphone/Microphone Function Simultaneously Y Splitter Audio 2 Female to 1 Male (Cable) - Cost 5 USD



StarTech.com Headset adapter for headsets with separate headphone / microphone plugs - 3.5mm 4 position to 2x 3 position 3.5mm M/F - Cost 7 USD

BEBONCOOL(TM) 3.5mm 4-Pin to 2x 3-Pin 3.5mm Headset Splitter Adapter M/F - Cost 6 USD



The same Aker speakers are available on Amazon:

VoiceBooster Voice Amplifier 12watts Black MR1505 (Aker) by TK Products, Portable, for Teachers, Coaches, Tour Guides, Presentations, Costumes, Etc. - Cost 64 USD



Y-splitters available on Ali Express (we have not tested these)

[Splitter Headphones jack 3.5 mm Stereo Audio Y-Splitter 2 Female 1 Male Cable Adapter with separate headphone / microphone plug - Cost 1.55 USD] (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-1pcs-lot-Gold-plated-Audio-Stereo-Plug-3-5mm-1-Male-to-2-Female/32339337262.html)

Splitter Headphones 3.5 mm plug Stereo Audio Y-Splitter 2 Female 1 Male Cable Adapter with separate headphone microphone jack - Cost 3 USD



The same Aker speakers are available on Ali Express:

Aker MR1505 Waistband Portable Loud Voice Booster Amplifier Speaker VoiceBooster Amplifier 12watts for MP3 - Cost about 30 USD

Aker MR1506 Voice Amplifier 10watts Black for Teachers, Coaches, Tour Guides, Presentations, Costumes etc - Cost about 30 USD

You need this and this.

First one to combine headphones and mic to TRRS and then you need an adapter to plug into the DS4. Jack on PS4/Xbone controllers are wired via OMTP. PCs/Cell phones are wired CTIA. Here is the difference between CTIA and OMTP.

If you can, get a pair of headphones and a separate microphone. They will blow any "premium gaming headset" out of the water. Gaming headsets are typically closed-back headsets, which limits your sound stage. You'll want a piar of open-back headphones. They also have to cram a lot more inside the headphones which typically results in something being of lower quality.

It seems you're on Xbox one, so you'll need one of the controllers with a 3.5mm headphone jack.

If you're on PS4, you can use the same items I have listed, and if you're on PC you don't need the splitter.

One of the best pair of headphones you can get is this one. The Audio Technica ATH M50x.

Then get an antilion modmic. It attaches right to your headphones with no hassle.

Then get this thing so you can use the headphones and microphone on your xbox one controller. (Yes, it works on Xbox One.)


All you have to do is plug your headphones and microphone into the splitter, and your splitter into your xbox one controller. Way better than a gaming headset, and way cheaper too.

You can even get better earpads for better comfort, if you want.

I would buy this item, it's super cheap

ENVEL 3.5mm Jack Cable Headset Adapter Kit Mutual Convertors for Laptop,Mac,PS4,Smartphone,Xbox One,Tablet Earphone with Headphone/Microphone Simultan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0T6PSF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_vLkx73wrTyHxs

This sounds a bit ridiculous. Don’t spoil your kid this way (I know you’re not breaking the bank, I mean it more like caving in to his every demand.)

First, what does a condenser mic look like?

Exactly. They come in all shapes and sizes.

Don’t buy anything for appearance, prioritize quality.

Secondly, the streamers he wants to emulate are, in a lot of cases, running pretty sophisticated setups with a lot of unseen equipment off camera.

If your kid is going to stream via the built in functionality on an Xbox, then compatibility comes to the fore, since USB mics need a bunch of extra stuff to work.

So where does that leave use...

Assuming they’re streaming via Xbox without a computer/capture card involved, then the first thing you need is a TRRS mic/headphone splitter cable like this.

That plugs right into an Xbox controller, and allows you to connect standard stereo headphones and a standard mic with a ⅛” plug at the same time.

It really opens up compatibility options.

The problem you’ll run into is that quality mics are expensive, and most of them require some sort of power source that complicates things.

A decent lapel mic (which won’t meet his appearance standards) will cost around $20.

A Blue Yeti (one of the most popular and versatile mics for Youtubers/streamers/podcasters) costs $100 by itself.

$300 mics are not uncommon.

So, between your budget and his desires, this may not work.

I can’t tell you enough how much serious research you should do before buying anything though.

That linked post in the edit is incorrect. Apple removed optical audio out, but there is still audio in. What you need is one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/ENVEL-Convertors-Smartphone-Microphone-Simultaneously/dp/B01M0T6PSF/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1526374927&sr=8-9&keywords=headphone+microphone+splitter

That will give you the microphone-in port that you want (the pink one will be the microphone).

Not sure about the headset. It should work in the 3.5mm jack? Not sure why you would need the adapter. It either works with Xbox One or doesn't.

EDIT: Ooooh wait. That headset has 2 separate wires for headset and mic right? Green and pink? That won't work on Xbox One. You don't need the $25 Microsoft adapter you need a Y adapter that will turn your two wires into one. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M0T6PSF/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487042580&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=headphone+y+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=4149AcA4MLL&ref=plSrch

As for the extra hard drive you can get just about any USB 3.0 external drive and it will work. You could find a 1tb one for what looks like $50-60 on Amazon right now.

You can buy an adaptor that will combine both the two jacks so that it will work in a combo jack. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M0T6PSF/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520863090&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=combo+jack+adapter

Merger Cable:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0T6PSF/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A273B110XRJXXC

Splitter Cable:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PGBV4NU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3NV6XAKT0NANY

Yes I get full resolution on macOS.

This is the cable I am using.

Club3D CAC-2068 DisplayPort to DisplayPort 1.4/Hbr3 Cable DP 1.4 8K 60Hz 2M/6.56ft, Black Vesa Certified https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0767F5DNR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PSxtDbT7NVPYT

I've heard these are incredible: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0767F5DNR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_595nDbFEG5KQN

Just get this, its Vesa-certified DP 1.4 and typically recommended.

I had to get a certified Display Port cable which fixed the flickering and stuttering for me on my 5700xt. I had no issues on a rx570 so I can only point to the Display Port Cable.

I got this one.

https://www.amazon.com/Club3D-CAC-2068-DisplayPort-Cable-6-56ft/dp/B0767F5DNR

Yes I recognize you, too. You're on here quite a lot and helped me with some Corsair LL stuff quite a while back.

Ironically before I read your reply, this is what I picked:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0767F5DNR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_F0Z0CbM7S805E

I assume that'll work fine.

It's okay! :) I understand your frustration. On a few different occasions a bad DP cable has caused extremely odd behavior with monitors I've had which was quickly fixed by a higher quality cable.

Most recently, i was doing 3440x1440 (the monitor listed here) and a cable I had would sometimes make the monitor go out of 120hz mode and be stuck in 60hz. Once I got this cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0767F5DNR/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
it's been rock solid, no issues whatsoever.

For people having flickering issues lots of people are saying try a quality DisplayPort cable. Here is one I found on Amazon, Club3D DisplayPort 1.4/HBR3 Cable DP 1.4 8K 60Hz 2m/6.56ft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0767F5DNR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4g9TCbTXS0BC2
Edit a word.

This cable: https://www.amazon.com/Club3D-CAC-2068-DisplayPort-Cable-6-56ft/dp/B0767F5DNR/

I don't have experiance sorry but I doubt you will get better result, you can try this cable which solve high fps problem but I don't think it will solve sound issue https://www.amazon.com/Club3D-CAC-2068-DisplayPort-Cable-6-56ft/dp/B0767F5DNR/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=DisplayPort+8k&qid=1554065765&s=electronics&sr=1-3

Price History

• StarTech.com DisplayPort Cable 6 ft / 2m 4K DisplayPort 1.2 Cable DP to DP Cable ^PureLink
  CamelCamelCamel │ Keepa
  
• Club 3D CAC-2068 DisplayPort to DisplayPort 1.4/HBR3 Cable DP 1.4 8K 60Hz 2m/6.56ft, Black ^PureLink
  CamelCamelCamel │ Keepa
  
  _
  Call the Bishop, these prices are sinful.
  ^(Developer) ^| ^(Inquiries) ^| ^(Support) ^| **[^(Report Bug)](/message/compose?to=The_White_Light&subject=Bug+Report&message=%2Fr%2Fbapcsalescanada%2Fcomments%2Fbfmcvw%2Fmonitor_dell_s2419hgf_24_1080p_144hz_tnpanel%2Felfv8hw%2F%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0APlease+explain+here+what+you+expected+to+happen%2Fwhat+went+wrong.)**

>Yeah, I bought this cable:
>
>https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0767F5DNR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
>
>and haven't had any problems since (2 weeks). Been on 240 Hz the entire time.
>
>
>
>Honestly a bit disappointing that the monitor is shipped with a cable that isn't able to support the product's flagship feature, but whatever. This cable fixed my problem straight away.

If using DisplayPort (assuming you are) then make sure you've got a good cable like this one or one that says "VESA Certified." While I'm not using an AMD GPU, my GTX 1070 using a FreeSync2 panel (BenQ EX3203R) was black screening mostly on scene transitions for seconds at a time (so a potential ramp up/down of the GPU clock). The cable solved the black screening issue completely. Worth a shot as they're not too expensive. (EDIT: This was all with any FreeSync enabled on the monitor in the OSD settings)

As and aside, I did also use CRU to fix another issue (getting G-Sync Compatibility to enable/work with the monitor), but that had nothing do with my black screening.

I use this one : https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0767F5DNR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The sound would go out and screen would black out for a second or 2 then come back on and it would be okay for a few minutes then repeat with the stock PS4 Pro cable. I switched to this cable from monoprice. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GCGKI3O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Haven't had any problems with the screen blacking out or sound issues. Another good cable I've heard people say works great is https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DI8A1NW/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3L31F4KTJOMGN&coliid=I2N5CQDFP3Y2FI&psc=1

It sucks that Sony cheaped out on the cable but I'm just happy it's working correctly now.

Monoprice Certified Premium HDMI Cable - 6 Feet - Black, 4K@60Hz, HDR, 18Gbps, 28AWG, YUV 4:4:4, Dual Video Stream https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GCGKI3O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VnkODb9BTE1ER

These?

Cables? Unless the ones you have specifically say they support 18Gbps, they probably don't.

Sorry to spam you, but are these the same as the one you linked? amazon I prefer to order from amazon since I get free next day, but there’s a few low quality reviews up top and just wanted to double check. I know those could just be defective or just idiots using them but I want to make sure before I order them. I have until like 10pm tonight to order and I’lol still get them tomorrow. Gotta love that convenience

Yeah, as odd as it sounds, in 4K modes HDMI cables run at similar frequencies to bluetooth, and without good shielding, the cable can cause interference with the bluetooth remote. Get a cheap premium certified HDMI cable and that should solve your issues. They aren't expensive at all: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-115428-Certified-Premium-18Gbps/dp/B01GCGKI3O/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1U9XKXX1J950B&keywords=premium+certified+hdmi+cable&qid=1573158853&sprefix=premium+certified+%2Caps%2C138&sr=8-3

I just had to return a few Amazon Basic cables (i have two mirrored outputs on my AVR) because they would not carry the Dolby Vision or HDR signal from my Apple Tv 4K to my TV. They were 10' cables. Replaced with a Monoprice brand (also sold at Amazon) and it worked great. Later found out the Dolby Vision requires the cables be clearly marked PREMIUM CERTIFIED. The Amazon Basic cables are not marked as such where the Monoprice ones are.


https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Certified-Premium-Speed-Cable/dp/B01GCGKI3O/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1506533116&sr=1-1&keywords=monoprice+hdmi

EDIT: YMMV, I've also been told that cables without that marking will work with DV over shorter distances, but this was my experience.

or just buy a better cable, for a cheaper price, without needing a promo code...link

I always buy this one.

I would buy it straight from monoprice website but their return policy is terrible and I’m pretty sure you have to pay shipping.

https://www.amazon.ca/Monoprice-115428-Certified-Premium-18Gbps/dp/B01GCGKI3O/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Monoprice+4k+hdr+cable&qid=1556393805&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Is it the cable ?

I just bought that same cable (6ft black version) from amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GCGKI3O

I am still having the same balck screen issue.

The only HDMI cables you'll need are Certified Premium ones, like the one show in OP's pic. But, you can get them for $10 from Monoprice on Amazon. Got two of them, never looked back.

Specifically bought high end Monoprice cables just for 4K playback (these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GCGKI3O) so that cables wouldn't be an issue. When I try to enable HDMI enhanced, it's telling me the TV doesn't support it, even though it should?

Sounds correct.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GCGKI3O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That's what I have.

I had the same problem with the almost same TV (the 55' variant). Yeah, it's the HDMI cable and I bought this from Amazon and worked fine.

As they told you, you only need a cable that supports 18Gbps, I've had to be a little more careful because my TV is further and there's no many 5m cheap cables that will do the work.

I wouldn't expect the first 2 HDMI cables to work well since they are not made for the newer HDMI sources. The last cable should technically work since they claim it can pass up to 18 Gbps, but I personally wouldn't trust that claim. If you're up for trying yet another cable, look for one that is a Certified Premium HDMI cable like this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01GCGKI3O . I had similar issues and this cable solved it for me.

You can also try powering up the TV and changing to the Roku input, then rebooting the Roku. I found my Roku didn't like hotswapping HDMI cables without a reboot.

This is a good option to get DV at a good price. There is also a belkin cable food for DV. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GCGKI3O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
For best DV results, stuck to 2m/6ft cables.

As suggested, I am getting a Monoprice cable as suggested by others:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GCGKI3O/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

>Question is, how do I hook the Blue Yeti up to the One S (more specifically, via the controller)? There's a lot of videos of how to do so through the original One, but that controller is different from the S' controller.

I'm not sure what videos your watching but the only difference would be the need for the headset adapter on the older controllers. That's not needed on those controllers with the built in port. They are identical otherwise.

>There's a way to connect them so that I can both listen to in-game audio via headphones and also speak at the same time, right? If so, how? Any extra cables I might need?

Yes, you'll need a mic/headset splitter to ensure that the rings are mapped correctly to what's expected in the controller. For example, this one which claims to work with the console -

https://www.amazon.com/ENVEL-Convertors-Smartphone-Microphone-Simultaneously/dp/B01M0T6PSF/ref=pd_day0_23_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01M0T6PSF&pd_rd_r=DQCJC77XDRCE62CWJM1Z&pd_rd_w=cg4lW&pd_rd_wg=A5xwE&psc=1&refRID=DQCJC77XDRCE62CWJM1Z

Could you please give me more information on, why should I use exactly this one and not ones like this or this

It just looks really bulky.

Ty

just use an adapter dude

https://www.amazon.com/ENVEL-Convertors-Smartphone-Microphone-Simultaneously/dp/B01M0T6PSF/ref=pd_sim_23_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=4773AD8JSHCEJZA9Y85B

https://www.amazon.com/Interesting-Adapter-Converter-Headphones-Earphones/dp/B01MG7L2K3/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1484452834&sr=8-2&keywords=omtp++ctia+adapter

It highly depends. If the laptop supports a 4 pole 3.5mm jack, which supports mic and headphones on one line like some phones, (the 3.5mm jack with 3 rings rather than two) then you can get adapters specifically for that such as this:
https://www.amazon.com/ENVEL-Convertors-Smartphone-Microphone-Simultaneously/dp/B01M0T6PSF/ref=pd_lpo_23_tr_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=DZFJAETDEWF87EPDPD5R

However, if the headphone jack only supports a 3 pole 3.5mm jack (standard for stereo headphones) then plugging in an adapter like this won't do a thing.

EDIT:
HOWEVER, a standard 3 pole to two 3 pole type of splitter WILL NOT WORK. Only thing that'll happen is you'll wind up blowing out the microphone's diaphragm as it tries to function as a speaker, which it's not designed to handle.

im trying to stream with my n3ds but this issue doesnt let me use my headphones while doing so and it only lets me have the 3ds bgm or my voice, never both, which is kinda bothersome since my current laptop only has 1 audio jack.

here's the link to the y splitter: https://www.amazon.com/ENVEL-Convertors-Smartphone-Microphone-Simultaneously/dp/B01M0T6PSF/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1519303145&sr=1-6&keywords=y+splitter

https://www.amazon.com/ENVEL-Convertors-Smartphone-Microphone-Simultaneously/dp/B01M0T6PSF/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1519367635&sr=8-3&keywords=trrs+splitter

would something like this help? I use a TRRS splitter to put my mic into the controller, and record out the game chat.

Here is the exact cable I have used before in the past. You want to make sure your gain stages are set correctly; Because the mic inputs on phones and tablets are pretty hot, and are designed to add gain passive mics. You'll more than likely have to turn the volume down going in to make sure your not clipping it..

You need something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0T6PSF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_OUJWAb2EM4HFD
To be the long term solution. In a pinch if you have two headphone sets you can use and have one be your mic and the other be your dedicated headphones that should work as well.

So basically, you want audio from PS4 and PC? If your headset is like mine, buy a Y-splitter.

From there, use an external amplifier/soundcard like the Astro Mixamp Pro.
You connect the optical cable to the back of the PS4 for game audio, then using the Y-splitter connect your headset into the mixamp, then use a 3.5mm to 3.5mm stereo cable and plug that into MP3 port of the amp and your audio port on the PC. NOTE - Whichever source you plug the USB to power the Mixamp, will be where your mic is assigned to.

TLDR; Headset and Y-splitter go into an amp, optical cord goes into PS4 for audio, USB goes into PS4 for microphone, 3.5-3.5 stereo cable goes into mixamp and audio port for PC/laptop. This is my current set-up and it works beautifully.

I think it deleted my comment:

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-G230-Stereo-Gaming-Headset/dp/B00BFOEY4I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495915610&sr=8-1&keywords=g230

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Gaming-VOID-USB-Headset/dp/B013GMXA2I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495915698&sr=8-2&keywords=void+headset

If you get the first one you will need a splitter, I use one and it works fine. The second one is usb so it'll be fine.

here's a splitter https://www.amazon.com/ENVEL-Convertors-Smartphone-Microphone-Simultaneously/dp/B01M0T6PSF/ref=pd_sim_147_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01M0T6PSF&pd_rd_r=2HFS2J5XDCQ8XPAYPKNX&pd_rd_w=Gw2CJ&pd_rd_wg=pQfwu&psc=1&refRID=2HFS2J5XDCQ8XPAYPKNX

You likely need a Mic 'Y' adapter for 3.5mm combo ports, such as this one: https://www.amazon.com/ENVEL-Convertors-Smartphone-Microphone-Simultaneously/dp/B01M0T6PSF/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1498058543&sr=1-6&keywords=mic+y+adapter (just linked for reference, not endorsing)

Okay so I've got a solution for you.

https://www.amazon.com/KOTION-Over-ear-Gaming-Headphone-Headset/dp/B00Z924M58

My girlfriend got me this headset about 2-3 years ago for my birthday, and it's still in perfect working order.

I DID have to buy a cheap little audio/mic converter dealy so that it would connect to my DS4. I think it was like $10-$15 at my local Best Buy. BUT if you find a similar converter on amazon and bundle the two together I'm sure you'd get free shipping and it'd be around 40-50 dollars EDIT: I am bad at math and it actually would come out to around $30, check the links I posted!

These are meant for PC so to me they feel like high end headphones, sound quality is great and the mic is very clear and has pretty good noise cancellation. I have my mic set to a little above normal and people still really can't hear any noises in my room other than me.

But you said yours don't fit over your Psvr, these ones adjust and fit VERY comfortably. I have a pretty large head, too. Plus, they match the colors of the PS4/Psvr!

I hope this helps! I can update with some pictures if you'd like, too!

Edit: I found a cable adapter that even matches the headsets cord pattern! There's another one that's all black if you don't like the pink/teal default jack colors.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M0T6PSF/ref=pd_aw_sim_23_2/153-3904418-5173344?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=9BBC6Q12TQQMD0V7V7J1

So with the headset and this adapter, it comes out to around 30 bucks. And I can attest to the quality. They are amazing headphones!

You need something like this:

ENVEL 3.5mm Jack Cable Headset Adapter Kit Mutual Convertors for Laptop,Mac,PS4,Smartphone,Xbox One,Tablet Earphone with Headphone/Microphone Simultaneously Y Splitter Audio 2 Female to 1 Male https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0T6PSF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8S3QBb3T9DH9W

I've gone through 3 of those since I've owned the headset. It's pretty annoying because I've never had any indication my splitter was going out either. Just playing games one day, set the headset down when I'm done, and whenever I pick it up again I'll either have no game sound or my mic wont work. These are the best ones I've found. They have lasted me about 7-8 months now with no issues

good to hear, I know lenovo's keyboards can be a bit strange, control key sometimes isnt bottom right, fn there instead on some models. As for mic input jack, they use a TRRS (mic and headphone combo) 3.5mm jack on it, you can buy a small cable adapter that puts a 3.5mm TRS mic in and a 3.5mm TRS stereo out into on single TRRS 3.5mm jack, something like this tps://www.amazon.com/ENVEL-Convertors-Smartphone-Microphone-Simultaneously/dp/B01M0T6PSF

Oh I'm so sorry, I forgot about that.

Get two of these splitters.

Now use the F2F and M2M couplers and wires to split the headphone mic and connect it to a splitter that connect to the phone.

There, you have a bunch of wires, but it's cheaper then the other solutions.

Better yet, use this splitter on the headphone end and the former splitter on the phone end.

Total cost for my setup is $27, could be less depending on how you mix and match the wires.

Now, solved.

Hey my apologize,

What I mean is, I want to use something like THIS essentially, so one end will go to the headunit that is already in my car acting as an AMP and the other end, I'll simply plug in a cheap microphone for simple Google Now commands.

Whilst at the same time, have an OTG cable plugged in for power and plugging in USB devices.

Is this something that is possible or do I have to output sound through USB into a DAC and then output DAC to headunit?

Sorry if I'm still being confusing, I can draw a diagram on MS Paint if need be.

No info at this time. I personally doubt it will, but a splitter is cheap. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0T6PSF

What you'll need to do is use a splitter designed to isolate speaker and microphone inputs. Check to make sure that the single end has 4 metal bands on the connector. Something like this will work. Then plug your PS Vita's output into the microphone input on the splitter. Be advised though, that microphone inputs are mono, so you only get a single channel (the Right channel to be specific).

You might be able to use something like this to further combine your stereo input from your Vita to a mono microphone input, but I'm not really sure if that will work. All the reviews seem to focus on using it the other way, as in mono audio output to stereo speakers.

Your iPhone should record the mono audio source as a "stereo" recording, i.e. the same track is recorded on both tracks. If not, you can copy the mono track to the other channel in an editing program.

ENVEL 3.5mm Jack Cable Headset Adapter Kit Mutual Convertors for Laptop,Mac,PS4,Smartphone,Xbox One,Tablet Earphone with Headphone/Microphone Simultaneously Y Splitter Audio 2 Female to 1 Male https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0T6PSF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oVhYCb1987SBN

I wonder if the TRRS adapter I bought is just faulty because this one is not working.

I'll probably play with the OBS software mentioned by other people.

so that sounds really awful. I was looking at your headset attachments and i see what you mean. I have a similar head set and I mean it sucks to have to buy additional components but you could buy:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0T6PSF/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

then use that Y splitter to go between your control box and ps4 controller. (It is what I had to do but because my old Y broke)

My headset arrived Wednesday(a day early), so I was happy about that. I also have this arriving later today since my laptop doesn't have a microphone port.

The Same happened to me 2 or 3 weeks ago.
During Partychat, it stopped working and i wasn't able to Talk/listen.

I replaced the Splitter-cable which solved the problem for me.
If go for a new one, make sure It has 3 rings on the plug which connects to the Controller.
I use this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M0T6PSF/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1502994136&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=3.5+headset+splitter&dpPl=1&dpID=51KwsDez5HL&ref=plSrch

This one

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0767F5DNR/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_fGHpDbVVG50NK

This is my displayport cable I’m using. It does work for 144hz on this monitor when i’m using integrated graphics but not with the GPU. I have also tried 2 other DP cables as well.

Yes I did use DDU to do a completely clean install. I really don’t get what’s up

Club3D CAC-2068 DisplayPort to DisplayPort 1.4/Hbr3 Cable DP 1.4 8K 60Hz 2M/6.56ft, Black Vesa Certified https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0767F5DNR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.DnzDb537Q0HD

It's probably fine, but its best to get a VESA certified cable.

Here's one from Club3D. Here's its certification on the VESA website.

In the past I've had some trouble with non-certified cables.

Unfortunately no just an HDMI cable. It will get you 240hz (assuming your gpu supports it) but I had to order a DP cable.

This is the cable i got and FreeSync works great!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0767F5DNR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Are you using the DP cable that came with it? I've only had mine for a few weeks so it's possible I may still run into it but I read people talking about a better cable fixing the issue so I ordered what they recommended.

​

May be worth a try.

Club3D CAC-2068 DisplayPort to DisplayPort 1.4/HBR3 Cable DP 1.4 8K 60Hz 2m/6.56ft, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0767F5DNR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JBNSBbGF9Y762

I would suggest getting a DP 1.4/HBR3 cable.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0767F5DNR/

Displayport has a strict spec with vendor approval past 120hz, despite what people assume.

The OS and GPU aren't the problem. That's beyond well supported.

Here’s a decent certified 8K cable. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0767F5DNR/

The 3Meter cable is also Certified.

any dp cable that supports 240hz 1080p bandwidth will do

https://www.amazon.co.uk/DisplayPort-Benfei-Display-Gold-Plated-Lenovo/dp/B077BPW8XJ/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=7YU1JD35PHZA&keywords=1.2+displayport+cable&qid=1555595609&s=gateway&sprefix=1.2+dis&sr=8-4 works fine for me, just make sure you firmly push it into the monitor dp since it required a bit of force for the locking mechanism

club 3d will always be the premium (would recommend for durability, very costly) but for this monitor does not need this much bandwidth, https://www.amazon.co.uk/Club3D-CAC-2068-DisplayPort-Cable-6-56ft/dp/B0767F5DNR/ref=pd_aw_lpo_23_tr_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=C03A5FRGWYFQZ6RAG9E7

also with gsync comp enabled the ghosting artifact on edges is gone even @ 240+ fps (mostly why I went DP)

Oh that’s a shame. I thought I was in the clear for getting displayport vesa certified cables. Just ordered the Club3D DP 1.4 so I hope this fixes my issues. I’ll report back later when I get them. Thanks for the help!

There is a little bit of work involved, but its well worth saving $$$ compared to a G-Sync monitor.

First, download the latest nividia drivers.

1. Open nividia control panel by right clicking on the desktop view
   
2. Click display, then set up G-Sync
   
3. Click enable G-Sync, then either full screen or full screen and windowed mode
   
4. Click the monitor (should have the model name underneath)
   
5. It may say that it is not G-Sync compatible, but it has been verified by many users.
   
6. Check enable settings for selected display model, then click apply at the bottom
   
7. This step is optional, but recommended for this monitor. Click 3D settings, then manage 3D settings. Scroll down to vertical sync, then select fast from the drop down menu, and click apply at the bottom.
   
   You will need to link the GPU and the monitor using a good quality displayport cable. Any one with not too many bad reviews will do, however anything over 10ft seems to have a high defect rate.
   
   This one is DP1.4, however it is backwards compatible and is certified by the DP organization.
   https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0767F5DNR
   

Here ya go: Club3D CAC-2068 DisplayPort to DisplayPort 1.4/HBR3 Cable DP 1.4 8K 60Hz 2m/6.56ft, Black Vesa Certified https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0767F5DNR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MNrVCb7J9KJTN

That's the only one i can find on Amazon that's actually vesa certified. Everything else is counterfeit.

So this will get me going at 240hz?

i tried 2 different cables which were the following:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00YOP0T7G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0767F5DNR/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

All 3 display port slots on my gpu produce the same effect.
Unfortunately i have no other displayport capable devices to test the monitor, and no other display port displays to test the gpu.
Both monitor and gpu are brand new.
Guess i may have to try and get my hands on another display to test.
Thanks for your help!

You don't want stereo 1/4" jacks--the JBL inputs are mono. What you want is two mono RCA cables, each with an RCA-1/4" adapter on the end (most common solution), or if you want to do it without adapters, get a cable like this.

You will also find that you have a problem with volume control, since the turntable's output is fixed. The simplest solution would be a passive controller like the Schiit Sys between the turntable and the speakers. That would allow you to connect another source (e.g. phone, laptop) easily as well.

Chromecast is a better option - there are well-designed monitors that have their own wifi receiver built-in, but those are significantly smaller and more expensive than the HS8s you are looking at.

Get a 3.5mm to RCA cable to hook up the CCA to a volume controller, and these cables to connect volume controller to these monitors

I just got a UMC204HD and a Schiit Magni 3 from a buddy and have never used something like these before. I have a question regarding what's the difference between these 3 cables when connecting the UMC204HD to the Magni 3.

• Dual RCA to Dual RCA
  
• Dual 1/4 TS to Dual RCA
  
• 1/4 TRS to Dual 1/4 TS
  
  Disregard the lengths I just want to know how these connections differ in regards to quality of sound and how they differ in regards to how the UMC204HD & Magni 3 communicate.

Thanks!

Okay in that case I would need one of these to go from the MK3 into my computer's output, right? And then this from the MK3 into my Pioneer?

I want to be able to record my computer's output into the MK3 as well as the Pioneer (for things like CDs and Tapes).

There's a switch on the back of the Behringer amp tl pick from stereo or mono. Set it to mono, and both channels will be driven by a single input: Same thing as a Y cable, but with fewer parts.

Your list looks pretty complete, but that XLR cable won't do you much good with a typical receiver unless it also has an XLR output (most are RCA outputs).

The Behringer amp can accept XLR or 1/4" connections. If it were me and my own system, I'd get something like this:

Hosa CPR-201 Dual 1/4" TS to Dual RCA Stereo Interconnect Cable, 1 Meter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O16/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Cfd8CbWWVZMT4

Split the pair and put half in a drawer for when you get a receiver with multiple subwoofer outputs, or decide to rent some full-range PA speakers to piss off the neighbors with.

Speaking of PA: Handles are glorious things for enormous and heavy boxes. If you can work some into your design, I think you'll be much happier when those monsters inevitably need moved.

Don't apologize! I used to do some sound work on the side in a past life, so this is fun :) I just hope you post a link to one of your shows once all this is done...

Mixers, like any analog equipment, have good models and bad models. Good models will sound great and bad models will sound not so great due to poor quality components and insufficient shielding. Some cheap models are decent, some just suck.

I picked those three because they're all in the Behringer Xenyx line (which you are already familiar with), because they have USB I/O, and because they are cost effective (you don't want to spend a lot when you're just starting out). Behringer is known for making low cost stuff that performs decently if not amazingly well. Certainly you can do better, but it's useful and cheap and not in the realm of 'garbage'.

If you want something a little better, try a Mackie 802VLZ4. Mackie is a better brand, good sound quality, good build quality too, which comes with a matching price tag of $200 for the 802. That would fit your needs nicely- 3x stereo channels, 2 mono channels, and an aux send. Not much room to grow (only one extra mono input) and no sliders, but it'll work well for a long time.
There's also the Mackie 1202VLZ4, for $270 you get 4x stereo channels, 4x mono channels, 2x aux sends. Still no sliders.

Neither of those are USB boards, which means you need another way to get audio into the computer. If your PC's sound card has a blue line-in jack you could use another dual mono 1/4" phono to stereo 3.5mm cable to send the board's output into the computer that way. Otherwise you could use a USB sound interface, most of the ones you'll find on reputable websites are decent, try a Behringer UCA222 for $30. You'll need a dual 1/4" phono to RCA cable to hook that up to the UCA222. If you want to improve audio quality, this is a decent place to do it; most computer onboard sound cards are pretty crappy so any decent USB interface (including the UCA222) or a dedicated quality PCI sound card will be better.

------

If it were me- and keep in mind this reflects my mindset- I wouldn't worry about the tech stuff much now, because attracting an audience and keeping them is harder than making sound work. Going from decent sound to great sound won't do a huge amount for the success of my channel, especially when starting out.
IMHO, the biggest challenge to starting a stream channel is building the audience. I can control the sound, and I can throw money at quality hardware, but I can't control whether people will watch my show or not. And I don't know if the channel is going to be in any way successful, or if I'm going to do 20 shows and get 3 viewers and then decide to spend my time on something else.

So if it were me, I'd get that cheap 4-way 3.5mm switcher and for the moment make it work with the Q802USB mixer I already have. Or I'd do an ugly ghettosplice, just use Y-splitters to plug the Xbox and PS4 into the same stereo channel, and only turn on one at a time.

This wouldn't sound as good as a Mackie setup, but it would work and it'd be cheap.

Then I'd start streaming and focus on building an audience and getting subscribers and whatnot.

Then once I'd been streaming for a while, I'd have a better idea of what kind of show I'm putting on and thus what kind of capability I want to have.

For example, I might want some kind of simple background music that I can easily fade in and out without pausing the game. I might have guests that call in via Skype or a phone, and want to adjust their volume separately. I might have some kind of dual mashup stream where I host myself and my buddy playing on the same team. Depending on what people like watching me play, I might end up only streaming one or two games (thus not needing both consoles). etc etc. Or the whole thing might totally flop and I might get bored of it, in which case I don't want to have wasted $500 on mixers and adapters and cables that I'll never use again.

You'll only know the answer to these questions after you've been at it a while. So my suggestion is get from where you are now (mucking about with audio cables) to a published stream as efficiently and cheaply as you can, especially since you already have a mixer, and then improve your setup as your channel grows.

Now you already have the most important component- a decent microphone. All the mixers in the world won't help if you are feeding them shitty audio from a shitty mic. The one thing I would tell any streamer is spend $40 on a decent microphone (that's NOT part of a headset), but you're already there. The rest is details.

would you happen to know what cable will I need to buy to connect my two jbls to the BIC America F12 when i buy it? Unless the BIC already comes with the cables necessary. My monitors will already be plugged in my motherboard via y splitter

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-HOS-CPR201-Dual/dp/B000068O16 - would a wire like that be sufficient? i heard something about one of my HOSA y splitter cables going into an RCA into the subwoofer or whatever.

and yeah...im pretty sure i would've honestly been happy with any of the purchases, wheter it be an a5+ or a JBL. after all...this is merely my entry into the audiophile world. in a future upgrade i'll probably spend at least a grand on speakers.

Are you using a Dual 1/4" TS to Dual RCA Stereo cable?

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CPR-201-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O16/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HFC4NX7/

so here's the setup starting with the mixer plug the rca end of [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CPR201-Dual-Cable-3-25/dp/B000068O16) into the tape out of the mixer the 2 quarter inch ends go into the center of each of the xlr inputs on this (they double as quarter inch inputs) make sure left and right don't get mixed up of course. That interface is then linked to my computer using a usb cable i set the input on an audio track in ableton for the focusrite in's and record away. Hope this helps!

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-HOS-CPR201-Dual/dp/B000068O16

Since the speakers include the amp, and they're expecting a line-level signal, you can just get an input switcher, or build one yourself if you feel crafty.

Edit: you might needs a set of TRS to RCA cables for the HS5, my monitors have an RCA in, forgot that others don't.

computer (USB) > MODI 2 (RCA OUT) > (RCA IN) SYS (RCA OUT) > (quarter inch in) LSR308s.

You'll need one of these https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CPR-201-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O16

And one of these: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-2-Male-RCA-Audio-Cable/dp/B01D5H8P0G/ref=sr_1_3?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1504640746&sr=1-3&keywords=rca

I'm using them with JBLs hahaha, using this cable:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O16/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dS5WCbZCY4S82

It depends on the mixer, but generally the outputs on offer are XLR, 1/4", and RCA. I'm not sure if the H4N Pro is any different, but I'm fairly sure the XLR input on the H4N is a mic level input and you're better off connecting to the H4N with a 1/4" connector into the combo port. Buy a selection of cables that have XLR, 1/4", and RCA at one end and 1/4" at the other for your Zoom.

For example, and RCA cable to 1/4" might look like this.

This would give you two 1/4" connections to connect your Zoom and potentially have two different input levels, though from memory, the H4N has decent auto-levels.

Here's the cable I purchased (quite awhile ago, actually, probably time to buy a new one!)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068O16


It says it's unbalanced. I did some Googling and I don't understand if it's possible to have a balanced audio cable to connect between my devices? The Scarlette has 1/4 outputs, and the amplifier has the dual rca input. Any cable recommendations would be awesome..

Here ya go, dual 1/4 to dual RCA

Dual 1/4" TS to Dual RCA

Turntable to MPC record input

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068O16/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have tried TRS to TRS (forgot to mention in the post) with the Scarlett Solo. Still no difference in sound quality with the computer

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068O16/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

This would be the correct wires for monitor to the Scarlett Solo right?

Alright, thanks! Would something like this work? (Maybe there's a better quality brand I should look into?) http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CPR203-Dual-Inch/dp/B000068O18/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1408054622&sr=1-1&keywords=TS+to+RCA

Also, if you don't mind me adding onto the question, I'd like to try my best to milk my DAC/Amp for as much as possible. Would you recommend going for something better than the Magni and/or replacing my DAC in the future if I want the most out of my sound? Thanks again.

[THIS](https://www.amazon.co.uk/HosaTech-CPR-203-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O18/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464704538&sr=8-1&keywords=1%2F4+to+rca
) will connect them.

/u/sb0k has some really good info!

To add to that... Something like a Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 would work great. It even comes with software (Pro Tools and Ableton) that would work just fine. You will need 2 RCA to 1/4" TS cables to connect the tape deck to the interface. The interface comes with the USB needed to connect to the computer. The software will recognize the inputs of the interface when you go to record. You will need to use the 2 inputs for stereo audio (L+R=2).

The interface is capable or recording at over 3x the resolution of CD audio. This will be more than you would ever need in terms of file quality. The actual sound quality will be dictated by whatever tape deck you find. But for the most part, you shouldn't have a problem finding something that will work well.

After some more looking around I think that i have settled on getting this tv, Focusrite, digital from tv to focusrite, and these cables to the JBLs. I believe this will be a pretty solid setup, I made sure the tv is compatible and has the digital out. Unless anyone has other options or input that would be better I think ill be set with this. Based heavily on this review on amazon.

edit: after some more looking around im wondering if its worth getting the focusrite 2i2 for balanced outputs

Yeah, monitor out jacks aren't going to provide significant power. Most monitors are self powered (have a built in amplifier) in fact.

Computer multimedia speakers will work, but I really feel like you'll be disappointed in and poorly served by their performance.

I'm sorry it doesn't save you much cabling, but the very least expensive but reasonable sound you can get would be an inexpensive tripath amp (Lepai 2020a+ can occasionally be found for ~20$) and a pair of inexpensive speakers, like the Dayton B652-airs (around 60$, sometimes a little less).

Though I guess since you're legitimately considering a portable mono-speaker, you really won't mind, so I'll redeem my post by linking what I believe to be the kind of adapter need if you want to stick with the computer speakers: http://smile.amazon.com/Hosa-YMP-434-Female-8-Inch-Breakout/dp/B0010D0HO0

And here's the one that's best if you end up getting an amp: http://smile.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CPR203-Dual-Inch/dp/B000068O18

It depends on the DJ mixer, but it'll probably be dual RCA outputs (two mono channels (Left and Right) to make Stereo). So you'll probably need a dual RCA to dual 1/4" to record the two channels, like this.

I'm trying to connect a pair of JBL 305 powered monitors and an SVS PB-2000 sub to a simple 3.5mm laptop. I've tried researching on my own but I have no idea how the RCA inputs are supposed to connect together.

I imagine I would connect these to connect the speakers to the sub, and then these to go from the sub to my laptop?

The SVS PB-2000 has both RCA ins and outs, so this should be possible, correct?

You can use a y-splitter to the inputs of the LSR-305 and the sub at the same time. Don't bother using a balanced XLR or TRS cable fro this as the RCA will short one of the balanced sides to ground.

What are you using as your source? If it's an RCA source, then these splitters with this cable would work. Then you just need an RCA cable like this to connect your sub to the splitter.

Thanks for your response. So if i want stereo i need to have two cables, right? Can i use this TS (MicroKorg L/R) to RCA (my interface) cables? https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CPR-203-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O18

I think your problem is with using TRS cables. You need to use unbalanced mono TS cables like these: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CPR-203-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O18

Also, not sure about using an external audio effect. I just create a new audio track and make sure input 1&2 are selected from the interface to give you a stereo signal from the 404.

I can find only fragments of the other thread you're referring to, but the TS-to-RCA cable is legit. It's not an adapter or coupler or anything like that. It certainly won't be the best connection option, but again, it works (it wouldn't damage the audio interface or the speaker), and it would cost far less than a pair of new monitors.

I looked at those speakers you have (or had). They're these? Those are more like bookshelf speakers, not active studio monitors. And $400 for the pair? You can do better than that for less money.

The JBL 305P monitors are another popular choice. They cost $150 each, and taxes/shipping could push the cost of the pair past your $300 budget. But both the Presonus and JBL monitors are fine choices.

For the sub you'll just need 1 coaxial RCA cable out from the receiver (Like what I linked below for the Fiio).

One coaxial cable for the DAC into the receiver, Like this cable

and two RCA to 1/4 TRS cable for the receiver to the JBLs, Like this cable

If you already have the JBLs hooked up via the Fiio you should already have those last two cables.

Something like this is your most likely cable.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000068O18?cache=b9657fc9ba86e8895988aae84f36842e&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1407371123&sr=8-11#ref=mp_s_a_1_11

Cool, thanks again. I ordered the Modi 2 uber, Asgard 2, LSR305, and this RCA to TS cable (said it would work for TRS. I could not find a true RCA to TRS cable).

They make passthrough cables. Also known as piggyback.

RCA Audio Piggyback Cable, 2 RCA Male to 2 RCA Male + RCA Female Piggyback, 6 foot https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I94FAE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lBlKAb4K83CST

3.5mm to rca on the switch. Run it to the computer piggyback cable. And an adapter for your headphones.

Should cost at the very most, $15 for everything.

That’s the most versatile setup.

For even cheaper, if the computer has a line in, run a 3.5mm from the switch into the pc. And just use the headphone jack or audio out on the pc.

That’s like $5 solution.

Personally I prefer the first option, it works better with amps, dac, and higher end headphones.

Would something like this also work?

aside from what /u/britty1983 mentioned, if you want to use the output to an external recorder you could pick up an RCA piggyback to run the output into the speakers and piggyback into something like this

Thanks for the info man. I'd love to spend a few hundred in a few months but for now I just need something to finish God Of War on lol. That Dayton 1000 ain't too pricey, if that's solid and I can't find a good discount deal I'll get that. Was gonna get the Polk psw-10 but been convinced otherwise

The JBL has 1/4" on the back so I don't think it should be too tough to hook up. Couldn't I just use 2 of these to go speaker wire to 1/4"? or I could use these and have RCAs going from my interface to the sub and my monitors. Not sure if it makes a difference. Piggybacks are a couple bucks cheaper

No. Depending on the console you're using, you need either

https://www.amazon.com/Nintendo-Cable-Composite-Yellow-S-Video-Stereo/dp/B007NNDKFY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1483340956&sr=8-4&keywords=composite%2Fs-video+cable+wii

or

https://www.amazon.com/Cinpel-S-Video-Cable-Nintendo-64-GameCube/dp/B00KZLEHL2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1483341056&sr=8-3&keywords=s-video+cable+gamecube

Plus one audio splitter cable, like this one

https://www.amazon.com/CableWholesales-Audio-Piggyback-Cable-Female/dp/B000I94FAE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1483343243&sr=8-2&keywords=piggyback+cable+rca+audio

Basically, these console cables have two video outputs. You plug the Composite end into your TV, and the S-Video end into your capture card. Then you use the audio splitter cables to have audio on both your card and your tv. It's pretty easy to set up on any CRT using composite

You could make it work but you would have to split the signal going into the amp.

Something like this from the source. The male RCA's would go to the SMSL SA-36.

The something like this to the subwoofer in.

Not ideal by any stretch but doable.

Key question here is are you attempting to connect directly to the speakers? If so, are they amplified at the speaker or by your home theatre amp. If it's by the amp, a direct connection from your echo to the speakers won't produce the outcome you're hoping for as the echo/dot/etc only put out a line level (read - non-amplified) signal, intended for amps or self powered speakers. If the speakers you're using are self powered then a simple piggyback cable will work (https://www.amazon.com/CableWholesales-Audio-Piggyback-Cable-Female/dp/B000I94FAE)

You would replace your current cable from the receiver to the speakers with the piggyback then plug an 1/8" stereo to dual rca cable between your echo and the piggyback portion at the speaker (such as this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N10QD8B)

I'm betting the speakers are not self powered and your best bet is to use the 1/8" to rca type cable to tie into one of your receivers inputs and select that input when you want to use your echo for music and such. Not helpful for daily interaction perhaps but better than nothing.

Hope this helps

Well, first things first. Your speakers can already take RCA inputs, so you should just be able to plug in the record player (if it has a preamp built in), your CD player, or your iPod into the RCA input. If you don't want to plug and unplug the RCA every time, get something like this, which also lets you do centralized volume control.

Get a sub like this, and hook up an RCA splitter like this or this so that your source (whether it's the SYS above or something else) is running into both the subwoofer and the speakers.

Note: you don't want to wire it so that the subwoofer and the source are running into the speakers. That means your subwoofer won't be doing anything. The "one" end goes to your source, the "two" end goes to subwoofer and speakers.

Those speakers are fine, and it's almost always better to have one good setup than two mediocre setups.

Final proposed setup: your sources --> Schiit SYS ($50) --> splitter ($10)--> PSW10 ($100) + Resolv A5.

Why would you need video input for audio. You need optical out from tv to sonos. you could use the Connect for your tv if you use rca cables. If you want to connect both the tv and record player you can use this cable...https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Piggyback-Cable-Male-Female/dp/B000I94FAE

something like this would probably work

not quite. something like this piggyback RCA connector would work, or this RCA splitter

you could use a 3.5mm splitter with two of the 3.5mm to RCA cables

What about
this

Okay, I found a solution after a bit of research. A RCA Audio Piggyback Cable, 2 RCA Male to 2 RCA Male + RCA Female Piggyback + 3.5mm Stereo Male To Dual RCA Female Audio Adapter + volume control attenuator will solve the problem, for about $20 to $30.

You could make your own cable with things like these:
RCA Connectors

3.5mm Connectors
And just wire them up your self, the two RCA male and female plugs in the one end don't have to look like that to have the same functionality, a splitter would also work.

I also found this: Rca piggyback cable which you could get a rca to 3.5mm cable and it's work the same as what you pictured.

Or alternatively RCA piggyback cable’s to connect te sources at once:

https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Piggyback-Cable-Male-Female/dp/B000I94FAE

I have frozen tonkatsu in my fridge. Cook that, curry and rice.

cheap cables

Yeah, I figured there's a risk of sound distortion. I just wanted to give it a shot, as I'm annoyed with having to switch the source on the input. I just wasn't sure if it was even possible... and being a broke student, I didn't want to spend money on a cable for it to end up not even being possible lol.

Is the link I posted above a coupler? This one.

If you cannot configure your receiver as mentioned above, your only solution is with hardware. They have "piggy back" RCA cables that allow multiple sources on one input but im assuming your using hdmi...? If you are using component video (the 5 rca plugs) just get a 3.5 to piggy back rca cable!

Piggyback rca link (cant remember how to format this!?!):

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000I94FAE/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1396306185&sr=8-2

Will this do it RCA Audio Piggyback Cable?

/u/MistrDarp Yeah just getting a Y will probably be fine for your application. Or something like this if using RCAs.

Edit: Linked the wrong thing.

Like this one?

I ran one of these to the line-in on my computer and set HDMI for video on the PS3 and Audio Input Connector / SCART / AV MULTI for the audio.

oh... ok. Then you'll probably have to use your computer speakers. and, I"M GUESSING, you're probably gonna need something LIKE THIS

You'll have two cables coming out of the xbox. One is an HDMI cable running to the monitor. That's the video signal. The other is a RCA cable (audio) running into the above mentioned convertor cable, running into your computer speakers. Sounds complicated but its not hard. You can get this cable for cheap at any electronic store like Fry's

If you could accept a $4.20 hardware solution, get this and this, and connect Red=>White and White=>Red. No soldering necessary.

If you have a cable length problem, 3.5mm audio extension cables are also quite cheap.

No problem. You will still need a phono pre-amp of course (they start at around $15), and a RCA to stereo adapter like this one.

You should be able to run your dreamcast through hdmi with better graphics for 60 bucks, you simply need these three things...

http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-1080p-HDMI-Scaling-Converter/dp/B008COJXHC/ref=pd_cp_e_0
http://www.amazon.com/Tomee-Sega-VGA-Cable-Sound-Adapter/dp/B00HPU96FI
And then a tiny audio adapter in order to connect the cables and have the audio go through hdmi, http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Male-RCA-Female-Discontinued/dp/B0018MI5F6/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1406852313&sr=1-3&keywords=red+white+audio+to+3.5mm

The Etekcity can do 720p but for some reason 1080 does not work. I first bought a Panlong, it did not work for me. The picture would show in 720 and 1080 but it scrolls diagonally and could not be fixed. I then bought the Etekcity, and although it only works in 720 it still looks ridiculously nicer than standard. I assumed it would barely be noticeable but it is a lot, though if you never played dreamcast the standard way it might not seem all that big of a deal.

Yes you Need rca splitters.

1 of these
https://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-Stereo-Female-Adapter-Y-Cable/dp/B0018MI5F6/ref=sr_1_14?keywords=3.5+to+rca+short&qid=1563493423&s=gateway&sr=8-14

2 of these

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-1-Male-2-Male-Audio-Cable/dp/B01D5H8MKY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Single%2Bmale%2Brca%2Bto%2B2%2Bmale%2Brca&qid=1563493523&s=gateway&sr=8-3&th=1

To come straight from computer.

You can put a DAC with headphone amp that has rca output between pc and speakers and sub but you will still need to split the rca output from the DAC

https://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-Stereo-Female-Adapter-Y-Cable/dp/B0018MI5F6

Does the new monitor have a headphone jack? If so, you can get an RCA-3.5mm adapter for it.

I am not responsible for any damage done to your computer. The reason I suggested the hardware solution with the 3.5mm to RCA adapters in my other post is because it does not change the functionality of your PC and is easily reversible. Registry changes like these seem small now, but as time goes on, you tend to forget what you did and will wonder "Why the hell doesn't my sound work correctly?" So... you have been warned.

Things you will need:

• 2 monitors with built in speakers (they must have speakers, not just the audio in jack)
  
• 2 3.5mm speaker cables
  
  First, plug one cable into the Green jack behind your PC and one cable into the Black jack. You must do this first before anything else. Open the Registry Editor (Windows + R, "regedit") and navigate to the following key:
  
  HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Class{4D36E96C-E325-11CE-BFC1-08002BE10318}\00XX\Settings\DrvYYYY_DevType_YYYY_SSYYYYYYYY
  
  XX is the key for Realtek High Definition Audio. It's usually 00, but you can click on 0000 and read the key for "DriverDesc" on the right panel and it should read "Realtek High Definition Audio".
  
  YY is usually a string of numbers and letters unique to each PC, so don't worry too much about this.
  
  Once you've made it to this registry folder, right click the folder on the left panel and select Export. Keep this somewhere safe in case you mess up or want to revert your jacks back to their original functionality.
  
  Next, you'll need to make one modification to an existing entry. Modify the following key:
  
  Pin15 = 04 00 00 00
  
  This will reprogram the Black (rear speakers) jack to act as if it is a GREEN (front speakers) jack. If Pin15 doesn't appear in your registry editor, make sure the cable is plugged into the Black jack and refresh Regedit. Once you've successfully made the changes, restart your PC so that the registry changes can take effect.
  
  Once your PC is up and running again, open the playback devices (Right click sound icon in taskbar, select Playback Devices). Then click on the speakers and select Properties. Under the Levels tab, find "Front" and click "Balance". Change the Balance to be ZERO Right and 100 Left. Your Green jack is now your left channel. Now find the "Rear" and change the balance to be ZERO Left and 100 Right. Your Black jack is now your right channel.
  
  Lastly, connect the 3.5mm cable from the Green jack to your LEFT monitor and the 3.5mm cable from the Black jack to your RIGHT monitor. Make sure the volume on your monitors is turned up. Once everything is wired up, you'll have your sound working exactly as you would like.
  
  For anybody curious with the hardware route, it's this:
  
  
• 1x 3.5mm male to RCA female
  
• 2x RCA male to 3.5mm mono male
  
  Plug the 3.5mm male to RCA female into your Green jack, plug one RCA male to 3.5mm mono male into the red RCA connector and plug that wire into your right monitor. Repeat for the white RCA connector and the left monitor. EZPZ.

This isn't as difficult as it sounds. You will have to have your hdmi connected to your monitor, and the av cables connected to the back of your Wii U. You will also need one of these.

http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Male-RCA-Female-Discontinued/dp/B0018MI5F6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1418680524&sr=8-4&keywords=av+to+3.5mm&pebp=1418680539436

Alternatively you can get the female end if you want to use headphones, but this will allow you to connect it to your speakers so you can get audio from you Wii U.

In your Wii U system settings there is an audio output option. You need only select the option that allows you to output sound via the av cables.

It'd have been nice if Nintendo would have added optical output for audio, but since that is not the case, this is the easiest, and cheapest, way of getting this done. This is the exact configuration I have on my Wii U.

Hmmm, so if I were to get a converter like this, then I will just need an Amp (e.g. Topping TP21) to run my setup?

Edit: My motherboard is a GA-Z87X-UD3H if that helps.

You may be able to connect your headset to the monitor with one of these: 3.5mm to RCA female

If your TV doesn't have an available HDMI port, maybe this will help:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=apR4Na5OHnY

http://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Cable/dp/B0018MI5F6/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1334076863&sr=1-2

This is what you need.

I would use ethernet to minimize interference and lag. I would not use the system /u/hornflips recommends because that runs on the 2.4ghz band. The same band your wifi runs on which will cause interference. I would try these. There very cheap so if they don't work then no big deal. As long as it's not more than 250ft away, you should be golden.

EDIT: Your TV may only have a headphone output so you will need an adapter like this.

Would something like this suffice? http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Male-RCA-Female-Discontinued/dp/B0018MI5F6

Hey guys, simple question about a frugal speaker set up. I'm looking at getting this setup, suggested over in /r/BuyItForLife and I was wondering if I could get an opinion on it, or suggestions for improvement. Sadly, I have a pretty small budget of $85. I'm really just looking for something that will play decent sound and volume from my computer.

Speakers

[Amp]
(http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012KZNP4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER)

RCA cord

Yup, I bought mine from Amazon, and it works great.

For the audio, he'd already have the audio rca cables coming out, so he'd need a cable like this one:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0018MI5F6?ie=UTF8&tag=forum0bbf-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0018MI5F6

If you have a blue line in port on your laptop, you can get an adapter [like this] ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0018MI5F6?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00 ) and plug the red and white plugs from the PS3 AV cable into the respective female ends on the adapter going into the line in on the laptop.

You then have to go into the sound settings on your PS3 and choose to output audio to the AV. You may also have to turn on the playback audio from the line in port using Realtek HD audio manager on your PC.

This is how I personally do it with my desktop PC and PS3.

If you read the reviews for that too many people are saying it only works as a single link adapter and/or can only display up to 1920x1080. Monitors like mine require dual link dvi.

I would need the powered adapters, like this one, which is about $150 Canadian:
https://www.amazon.com/Accell-B087B-002B-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Dual-Link/dp/B002ISVI3U/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_sims?ie=UTF8

Oh didn't know you needed 144Hz, you'll need an active adaptor which are more expensive
Like this one

~~https://www.amazon.com/VisionTek-DisplayPort-DVI-D-Active-Adapter/dp/B00DYRQXMK/
~~
this is the cheapest adapter I found on amazon that supports dual link dvi d

and it still $30

$30 can be spent on a proper 144hz monitor which also has displayport.

THIS ADPATER DOESNT EVEN SUPPORT 1080p 144hz. i just checked ratings

$5 DP to DVI adapters dont support Dual Link DVI. only Single link or similar.

edit:
looking at the other adapters..

$66
https://www.amazon.com/Accell-DisplayPort-DVI-D-Dual-Link-Adapter/dp/B002ISVI3U/

$110
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY/

I can't recommend a product but what you need is something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Accell-UltraAV-B087B-002B-DisplayPort-Dual-Link/dp/B002ISVI3U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1435597922&sr=8-2&keywords=bizlink+active+displayport+adaptor

Yes, they are expensive and they tend to crap out on you, you can't just use passive adaptors unfortunately.

Realistically, you should return the monitor and get a different one with a display port (I really don't see why they sell them without to be honest). Or a graphics card that outputs 144hz DVI.

Sorry I know these are not ideal solutions.

Oh I just realized your using an adapter. Is it a powered DP adapter? They retail for like 70-100 bucks and are required for eyefinity setup w/ 3 monitors for sure, possibly 2.
EDIT Example http://www.amazon.com/Accell-UltraAV-B087B-002B-DisplayPort-Dual-Link/dp/B002ISVI3U

Use an adapter: http://www.amazon.com/Accell-UltraAV-B087B-002B-DisplayPort-Dual-Link/dp/B002ISVI3U

It would not make a difference as long as the converter does not support your monitors resolution. Only plausible solution could be an active adapter (converter) as it supports higher resolutions but the real active adapters cost 80-100$. You can buy a new monitor for that amount. And you can tell if it is real active adapter or not, is if it has an USB cable attached to it. The ones that are labled as active adapters but don't have a USB cable are actually passive adapters and you already own 2 of them, clearly they don't work.
Here is what an real active adapter looks alike: https://www.amazon.com/Accell-B087B-002B-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Dual-Link/dp/B002ISVI3U/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1467454662&sr=8-3&keywords=DisplayPort+to+DVI-D+Dual-Link+Adapter
NOTE: I can't promise that even this would work.

Trust me, I've checked. Too expensive.

https://www.amazon.com/Accell-B087B-002B-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Dual-Link/dp/B002ISVI3U/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

This one.

You need a DisplayPort to Dual-Link DVI active adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002ISVI3U/

I've been told elsewhere that https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002ISVI3U/?tag=linus21-20&th=1this is the cheapest option although i have a question what the hells the difference between 3d and 2d monitors ???

Most adapters are limited to 60hz.

And even if they go to 144hz, chances are it's gonna flicker like crazy.

It looks like its a passive adapter as active adapters usually have a conversion chip on the DVI end of the adapter and the fact that it maxes out at 1080p seems telling that it only works in single link mode.

I am in need of a recommendation on a Dual Link DVI-D to DisplayPort adapter capable of running 1080p at 144hz. I'm told that I need an active display port adapter for this to work, but I'm a bit confused about what that means. Here is the adapter that I'm looking at currently, but reviews warn against flickering. This is my build. Thank you very much for your help!

Sell/return the monitor.

This page list two DP->DL-DVI adapter that can get you 144hz, but look at the price.

https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/729232-guide-to-display-cables-adapters-v2/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002ISVI3U
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003XYBA72

EDIT: nevermind, I was being stupid, dual-link DVI duh.

Ok, now I see your problem. I think you will have to get a card with 1 DVI dual-link and 1 display port, and convert that display port to a second DUAL dvi link using an active adapter. Found 2 such adapters on amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Accell-B087B-002B-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Dual-Link/dp/B002ISVI3U/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1498628713&sr=8-5&keywords=DisplayPort+to+DVI+Dual+Link
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1498628713&sr=8-3&keywords=DisplayPort+to+DVI+Dual+Link

Which already puts you over budget. But then you are pretty much pick of the litter with graphics cards. (as a word of caution, the general response here will probably be something along the lines of: Buying a really low power GPU only for a graphics adapter is stupid as these will run you probably close to 70$ for one with Dual link and a display port for converting, when you can 20$ more and get something that is actually really functional. This is your call. Just a heads up.

As of looking, I see nothing really in the "non gaming" range that has a dual-link and a display port. Cheapest I found new was an RX 550 ($80 to $90). Maybe I am messing this up, but now I'm on a quest.

Need a powered (active) DisplayPort-to-DVI adapter: http://www.amazon.com/Accell-UltraAV-B087B-002B-DisplayPort-Dual-Link/dp/B002ISVI3U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1435597922&sr=8-2

Just return the monitor, or get a different 1080 Ti. In order to achieve the 144hz on your monitor, you're going to need a TRUE Active Displayport to DVI-D converter. That shit is not cheap and for the cost difference, you could get a better monitor.

If you do decide to keep both, this is what you're gonna need. I think you're better off returning the monitor though and investing those funds into a newer model with DP.

https://www.amazon.com/Accell-UltraAV-B087B-002B-DisplayPort-Dual-Link/dp/B002ISVI3U

EDIT: This cable didn't work with my macbook air 2012, but I just tried it with my rMBP and it works fine.

I am currently using a mini display port to dvi adapter, but I am only running it at 1920x1200 on the 24" Ultrasharp.

I think the only way to do it is with an ACTIVE dual dvi adpater:

Left for reference later.
http://store.apple.com/us/product/MB571Z/A/mini-displayport-to-dual-link-dvi-adapter

http://www.amazon.com/Accell-UltraAV-B087B-002B-DisplayPort-Dual-Link/dp/B002ISVI3U

For about $100 you can get active DisplayPort to Dual Link DVI-D cables if that means anything to you. http://www.amazon.com/Accell-UltraAV-B087B-002B-DisplayPort-Dual-Link/dp/B002ISVI3U/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=1FIN0JJG68TIF&coliid=I1NH3AXFZKIDBN

Sigh.... once again these are passive adapters and an active adapter is needed for 144Hz.

Like this one-
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002ISVI3U

I literally JUST went through this hell getting my 1080Ti to work on my Asus VG278HE (don't judge me; I'm waiting for the 4K HDR monitors to come out).

Almost literally every single DisplayPort cable listed on Amazon as 'ACTIVE' is, actually, PASSIVE. How they get away with this, I don't know. But this is the cable I had to buy to get 144hz to work:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002ISVI3U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Note the USB plug to power the pixel clock. Any cable that's just a DisplayPort to a DVI-D port and nothing else is a passive adapter, and won't fix your issue.

You won't find one much cheaper than the $100 range. Honestly, if I wasn't waiting for a specific monitor to come out, I would have just driven to MicroCenter, bought a Dell S2417DG for $400 and called it a day.

Proof that I'm driving a DVI-D display at 144hz with a 1080Ti FE: http://imgur.com/IFzI9vZ.png

UserBenchmark scores included for ePenis reasons.

Yes I'm setting it within Windows. I ordered THIS adapter:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002ISVI3U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If this doesn't work I don't even know what I'll do..

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002ISVI3U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 bought. tested on vega 64. works. My 120hz montitor only has dvi-d so no hdmi option for me.

I have one of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002ISVI3U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

so my laptop can use my 2560x1440 screen, do you need a specific card to run these monitors? Or will an active adapter also work?

If I remember correctly you will need a powered display port adapter. Usually powered from a USB port. More like this type http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002ISVI3U/ref=redir_mdp_mobile

I was only able to get the vive to work with HDMI. I was using [this cable] (http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Mini-DisplayPort-Adapter-Cable/dp/B002XVYZ82)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-Mini-DisplayPort-Adapter-Cable/dp/B002XVYZ82

Is what you need to plug it into a standard Windows PC with only DisplayPort/HDMI/DVI connections.

Yeah i've got a EVGA gtx 970 and use https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B002XVYZ82/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 that minidp to dp cable, works fine for me.

Whilst being officially supported, it is in no way a stable platform at current. However, a regular minidisplayport cable will allow 4k at 60Hz under Windows. Therefore, I would attempt this with the purchase of a mini displayport to regular displayport cable before trying anything else.

As for a thunderbolt - dp1.2 kit, I've never heard of one and a fairly thorough search yields no useful results right now.

Sorry I can't be of much more help.

Diasy-chaining is where you connect multiple devices through a single source. So the setup runs like this: SP3 -> DisplayPort Mini to DisplayPort -> Monitor 1 -> DisplayPort Out to DisplayPort Mini -> Monitor 2 -> DisplayPort Out to DisplayPort Mini -> Monitor 3. The monitors need to support DisplayPort 1.2 and have a DisplayPort Out connection. For this particular setup I'm using three Dell UltraSharp u2414h monitors and four DisplayPort Mini to DisplayPort cables.

Yeah, the thunderbolt port is backward compatible with Mini DisplayPort. I think I'll pick up one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-6-Feet-DisplayPort-Adapter-Cable/dp/B002XVYZ82/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1406752437&sr=8-2&keywords=startech+displayport

I have no experience with it but one of the reviews on this cable Says "perfect for 165 hz monitor at 1440p".

It looks like you just want to make sure it's at least version 1.2 of displayport.

For mini-DP to DVI (I use one of these):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DJCB83O/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687562&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B002AULMFA&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0YWKWKNKF64Z35NXEEMC&th=1


For mini-DP to HDMI:

https://www.amazon.com/Rankie-Plated-DisplayPort-Thunderbolt-Compatible/dp/B01HXNCN0Q/ref=pd_sim_147_7?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01HXNCN0Q&pd_rd_r=58DW19EHNHKP057RRZK7&pd_rd_w=gQhwe&pd_rd_wg=AZW6a&psc=1&refRID=58DW19EHNHKP057RRZK7


For mini-DP to DisplayPort (caution with these, don't forget to unlock before pulling on them):

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Mini-DisplayPort-Adapter-Cable/dp/B002XVYZ82

I'm using this cable -
http://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-Mini-DisplayPort-Adapter-Cable/dp/B002XVYZ82/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457788439&sr=8-1&keywords=mini+display+port
with this monitor (Samsung U28E590D) -
http://www.samsung.com/uk/consumer/it/monitor/uhd-monitor/LU28E590DS/EN
running at full 4k 60Hz -
https://goo.gl/photos/TnEENwKRhuSGcxpy8

Easiest way to do it would be to look for a monitor with both displayport (for the MB) and HDMI (for the PS4). Macbook air can use any displayport monitor, you'll just need a mini-displayport/thunderbolt <-> full size displayport cable. Like this: http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Mini-DisplayPort-Adapter-Cable/dp/B002XVYZ82

I wouldn't bother with the Apple monitor, the lack of HDMI input will be a pain in the neck trying to connect the PS4 to it. It's really only good if you're using it with a Macbook and nothing else.

Salut les aviateurs

Je possède cet écranet ce macbook pro , soit un écran avec connectique DisplayPort et un macbook avec connectique thunderbolt 2. J'aimerais connecter les deux, de quel câble ai-je besoin ? Est-ce qu'un displayport <-> mini displayport de ce type est OK ? J'ai peur de la compatibilité mini-displayport / thunderbolt 2, j'y comprends pas grand-chose.

Merci!

I have a GTX980, have DVI-I plugged to a screen, HDMI plugged to a screen, DisplayPort plugged to my VIVE using a DP to mini-DP on my VIVE.

The wire I use for my VIVE is a Startech one, 6ft. (Was much cheaper than currently when I bought it tho.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B002XVYZ82

I currently run EVERY screens in dual screen and I have no issue using my VIVE while doing it.

It doesn't draw too much power. I don't see how using HDMI and display port at the same time would cause issue like someone suggested. I have a 1200Watt PSU tho but I don't think the wattage have much of an effect. +5V on HDMI and around 3.3V 500mA on displayport.

There was an issue with some non-compliant cable with the 20th pin sending power back to your GPU. I dunno if mine is compliant but never had any issue since I got it with my VIVE ordered the same day it released.


Just try restarting your VIVE via SteamVR. I think I had the same issue and a small reboot of the VIVE was fine.

So yea... I bought the 16 Pro. Mostly unaware of its issues.
Took a while, but once I got it to work I couldn't be happier.

Its a weird thing to say since so much people has been shaming this model. And to be honest it has a lot of issues, specially with product shipment.


For all the issues you stated, I had them and I managed to work it out. Just be sure to buy this baby: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002XVYZ82/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(or any mini DP to DP that some people have been testind and managed to make it work. I used this one and it was fine for me.)

If you use the wacom link + miniDP to DP cable = should work perfectly in 4k.
I am using a GTX 980 and it works in 4k without a problem.
If your 970 supports 4k then it wouldn't be a problem. I would not recommend it for you if you have an AMD card since I had errors trying the 4k in my RX480 card.

The hardware is great, the problem is really just the software. Wacom's drivers still suck and you will need something like Lazy Nezumi's stabilizer to help with the infamous wavy lines.


And, to be honest. Even tho it is full of problems, I would still buy it again. Cuz it is a gorgeous display, and even tho I come from Intuos Pro, I felt a lot of difference from Pro Pen 1 to the newest Pro pen 2 model.

Still... it is your call :)

OK, all becoming clearer now. Very much appreciated.
So, I have the link you gave me, which I now know "leads" to the cable I need. (pun intended)

And then there's this, which is below 10 GBP. (around 10 USD) However, based on your advice, I now believe that this isn't what I need.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-Mini-DisplayPort-Adapter-Cable/dp/B002XVYZ82/ref=pd_cart_vw_2_6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=JXRS4228RRSVJYW6DN1Z

Thanks again.

US Amazon, is this the same cable?
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Mini-DisplayPort-Adapter-Cable/dp/B002XVYZ82/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417478505&sr=8-1&keywords=StarTech.com+Mini+DisplayPort+to+DisplayPort+Adapter+Cable

Here's the Amazon link. You'll also need a miniDP to DP cable, like this one (cheapest I could find). I couldn't find a DP version on the manufacturer's website, but according to this overclock.net thread, you should get the full 144hz. Good luck!

Sure thing.

The left monitor is a Dell UltraSharp U2713HM 27 inch.

The right monitor is a BenQ GW2765HT LED IPS 27

These two are conected to the iMac via Mini DisplayPort to DisplayPort cables.

The iMac (and also Macbook Pros, I think) supports up to two external displays over thunderbolt. I believe it could handle up to two 4k displays on top of its 5k screen.

To get the extra two monitors, I'm using two of these Startech USB to DVI adapters (they use the DisplayLink Mac drivers). If you want to go down this route, make sure you do a little googling around first. They work really well - but make sure you:

• Get a USB3 adapter, not a USB2 one.
  
• Have a supported version of the OS - DisplayLink drivers tend to lag behind the latest OSX updates. AFIAK you can run the latest OS at the moment, but every time Apple updates OSX you need to wait for DisplayLink to release an update before upgrading if you want your monitors to work.
  
• Check your CPU can handle it - these bypass the graphics card, which is why it works, and the load is put onto your CPU instead. For reference, my not very powerful Macbook air can run one external USB display fine, but two causes it to start to lag a little.
  
  
  I've not had any big issues running the displays on Windows - it tends to handle it all pretty well. Windows always has been great at that. I for a little while had Windows 8 crash on me whenever all two of the external thunderbolt monitors were connected to it because of the AMD drivers being buggy, but that seems to be fine now.
  
  Hope that helps!

Hey guys, I need a second opinion on the mini DisplayPort I'm going to buy. I live in Germany and sadly there aren't many choices so if you're going to make a suggestion, you're welcome but it may not be possible to obtain here.

StarTech.com 6 ft Mini DisplayPort to DisplayPort 1.2 Adapter Cable M/M - DisplayPort 4k with HBR2 support - 6 feet Mini DP to DP Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XVYZ82/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1SOSAb3W98WGF

DisplayPort and thunderbolt share the same connector, unless it's using the full-sized display port on the monitor. You shouldn't need an adapter, just a cord with the full size displayport on one end and a Mini DisplayPort on the other. Your hdmi connector may only support 4K at 30, as 60+ is a newer feature of recent hdmi revisions. DisplayPort will though, and the Mac is certainly capable of it!

Edit: this sort of cord might be what you want, if the DisplayPort on the monitor is full-sized: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B002XVYZ82/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UUmwybVEM6VFC

would this be the right one?

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Mini-DisplayPort-Adapter-Cable/dp/B002XVYZ82/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1480644863&sr=8-7&keywords=mini+dp+to+dp

nonon, dvi adapters are weird. I have a laptop that I run 144hz on atm. I use a mini displayport to displayport adapter. I'll try and find one for you 1sec.

EDIT: this one should do the trick http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Mini-DisplayPort-Adapter-Cable/dp/B002XVYZ82

http://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-Mini-DisplayPort-Adapter-Cable/dp/B002XVYZ82

Depending on the monitor then in all likelihood; sure, If it's one of those Thunderbolt models you might be able to do it as long as your gaming rig either has a thunderbolt port on the i/o (unlikely) or you can pick up a Thunderbolt expansion card (basically like one of those USB Brackets) for not ridiculous sums on amazon.

IIRC the majority of Apple's displays are just mini display port so you should be able to use just either an adapter or go one better and get a mini to full cable like these).

I feel you on this one bro, gotta hand it to Apple, those displays are simply beautiful. Also Yes, links are amazon uk, #ukmasterrace.

Keep the dvi-d for the 1440p and get a
mini displayport to displayport cable for the 1080p.
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Mini-DisplayPort-Adapter-Cable/dp/B002XVYZ82/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1449259929&sr=1-5&keywords=mini+dp+to+dp&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011

I tried a BenQ Xl2720Z at a local NCIX store with this cable on my 2015 MacBook Pro with AMD graphics. Cable is not DP certified although I had no flickering or any connection problems testing the monitor at the store and 144hz was working fine. I just ordered that display last night, am I in trouble?

Not really... i believe I'm using one of these

If U R looking for 4K, then try this cable-
https://www.amazon.com/Mini-DisplayPort-1-2-Adapter-Cable/dp/B002XVYZ82

The 2 cables you will need:

[Thunderbolt 3 (USB-C) to Thunderbolt 2 Adapter] (http://www.apple.com/shop/product/MMEL2AM/A/thunderbolt-3-usb-c-to-thunderbolt-2-adapter?fnode=8b&fs=f%3Dadapter%26fh%3D4595%252B45b0)

[Mini DisplayPort to DisplayPort 1.2 Adapter Cable M/M]
(https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-6-Feet-DisplayPort-Adapter-Cable/dp/B002XVYZ82/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1356381772&sr=1-1&keywords=StarTech+6-Feet+Mini+DisplayPort+to+DisplayPort+Adapter+Cable+-+M%2FM+%28MDP2DPMM6%29)

Usually you would only have the 2nd cable, but since you have Thunderport 3 instead of 2, you will need adapters to connect to be able to use that cable. There is no reason for it not to work, maybe the reviewer had other issues which didn't make the conversion work.

Ok, thanks. Will any miniDisplayPort to DisplayPort cable work? Like this one (first result on google).

Im guessing that 2 mini DisplayPort connectors would be the better option? In which case I would want 2 of these?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002XVYZ82?keywords=mini%20displayport%20to%20displayport&qid=1448988830&ref_=sr_1_3&sr=8-3

Thanks a lot for your help. The paste thing is concerning me about building, are you saying that my intel i7 will have thermal paste already attached and if not my cpu cooler will?

I am buying an optical drive so that I can buy old pc games and play them. I realise they are now becoming obsolete.

As it is my first build I do not think I will overclock. I have changed the mobo to a z170.

By display port I mean the newer version of the DVI or HDMI that is needed for 1440p above 60fps. I was informed it was the best way to display 1440p. This is it here https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002XVYZ82/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE will this work do you know?

Thanks very much for your help.

So I could forgo having to hook up the speakers to the sub and instead use something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-Subwoofer-Cable-Feet/dp/B003FVYXY0/ref=pd_sbs_23_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ZGVMBWB3TDPZXBEGV9JT

And plug that cable into the L or R input and plug the other end in the dedicated sub output on the SMSL Q5 pro output? Or I would still have to plug the speakers into the sub? Or I could just plug them into the amp? Correct?

Yes, but I doubt a single layer of shielding tape would turn this into this.