It's just a powerlink adapter which routes the PCIE power ports to the side instead of the front. Looks slightly cleaner to me. I got it on sale for $5 a while ago. Here it is on Amazon

Why not this?

You'll need a small RF adapter to use it on a modern TV: https://www.amazon.com/Atari-2600-Coaxial-Plug-Female-Adapter/dp/B0028MXOF6

I'm sorry for your loss, but I hope you can enjoy the 2600 and have some happy memories!

If anyone has questions about the install shoot me a message and I'll gladly help!
Here's a short video http://youtu.be/ccwPxygGydE

Parts List

Double Din Bezel- http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CSVAEVE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB Car Charger - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008RBSXJO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB OTG- http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EB70PXA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB Hub- http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003M0NURK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB Wire- http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TH7GUU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Right Angle Stereo Jack- http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008SFSIXU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bluetooth ODB Reader- http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008U1MOM8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Diagram

http://i.imgur.com/LAqK0Ti.jpg

You have a ton of options at varying prices. I'll try and list out some of them.

RF - Nobody should use RF, unless you have no other options.

Composite - Purchase a toaster style NES, a clone system or mod your toploader. The PQ on an HDTV will not be great and the picture will need to be upscaled on your TV, which also introduces some lag. This option is much better than RF, but much worse than RGB/HDMI. This option will cost anywhere from $20 - $80.

RGB - You can purchase Tim Worthington's RGB board and install it (or pay to have it installed). You can have this installed with a multi-out port (like an SNES) and this can be used in a variety of ways. You can attach an s-video cable to it or buy one of HD Retrovisions SNES component cables. This will give you a much better picture on your HDTV, but depending on how the handles 240p, it may still have problems. Definitely an upgrade from composite. This will all run you around $200 +/-. You can also use this mod to run through a Framemeister which will give you a very nice HDMI picture, but the Framemeister is expensive. That will run $500 +/- for everything, but you will get an HD picture on original hardware (and the mod). A great option, but expenisve.

HDMI - There are a few devises that run using HDMI. The Retron 5 is a nice, cheap option with a lot of features, including save states. This runs around $150. It can run a variety of different system cartridges and is a good option if you feel you might not be playing long term. The downside is that the cartridge slots are tight and many systems have been known to have defects. It also will not run a lot of pirate, homebrew games. Also, it technically isn't running on true hardware.

There is also an HDMI mod through Game Tech. This is the same board they use in the sold out Analog NT. This mod does everything you want, but it is frequently sold out, and with installation will run you about $200 - $300. It's probably closest to what you want done. I can't think of many downsides, besides availability and price.

The AVS is a system that has been developed by RetroUSB. It is an HDMI NES that promises to do everything that the HDMI mod does and a little bit more. It will play Famicom games as well and will run $185. It's going to have a lot of built in features and will play all NES/Famicom cartridges. Supposedly they are on a boat from China to the US right now and should be available for sale in 4-8 weeks.

Like you stated, the NES mini is being released this fall by Nintendo. No one knows how good the emulation will be, but it's a good legal way to play 30 of the best NES games. Also, the Wii eShop has pretty good NES emulation as well and the games can be purchased cheap. Used Wii consoles are all over the place for ~$40.

Emulation - I won't get too deep into what emulation is all about since it can be illegal, but it might not be a bad option if you are looking for a cheap solution at a low price point.

I hope that helps. Everybody has a different preference in how they want to play. I also think that a PVM or CRT is a great option for NES gaming, especially because it allows for light gun play and it will have no lag. And besides that, people are basically giving away CRT TVs.

Why plug in a Chromecast Audio with basic analog cables when it supports an optical connection?

Adapter or Cable would both work really well and you wont have any crappy line noise.

Give me about an hour and I'll edit this comment with store links to what I got.

Edit: Here is the list

1. Receiver/Amp This is very basic and will only support the bookshelf speakers themselves. If you want to add a sub or center, your going to need a full on stereo receiver. WARNING - when plugging in the banana plugs into this receiver, i had to force them in a bit to make them stay in. I thought I broke it, but my friend who recommended me this receiver said thats how his is too. so if the banana plugs go in weird, its ok :).
   
   
2. Audio to RCA adapter. This is the wire to hook up to your PC. This could vary per setup. My setup goes from speakers to receiver, then receiver to PC with this cable. You could use RCA to optical cable as well. You have to make sure that if your PC is hooked up to your TV or monitor via HDMI to change the Audio input from hdmi to speakers.
   
   
3. Speaker wire This is how you connect the speakers to the receiver. and the best way to do that is with banana plugs
   
   
4. Bananna Plugs - Any kind will do and each banana plug hooks up to the wire differently. Some come with instructions, others you might have to google. I had to look at amazon reviews to see how mine worked.
   
   Total - about 40 - 50 depending on where you get your stuff.

All MacBooks have the ability to do optical audio out through the standard 3.5mm jack. All you needed was this: http://www.amazon.com/Recoton-Fiber-Optic-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B0002MQGRM

Get yourself one of these, they come in very handy for a variety of things.

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-A-Male-A-Female-Extension-Cable/dp/B001TH7GUU/

Worried about accidentally yanking the cable and it coming loose? Do this!

Isnt that the opposite of what you're needing? Thats female dvi to male hdmi, you're needing male dvi to female hdmi. Like this

If your TV has an RF input, the simplest way to connect it is with one of these. Image quality will be poor, and your TV's ability to display the (non-standard) signal will vary. Results range from not displaying anything at all, to displaying the game video with an image quality and degree of latency which has little effect on gameplay (though it can't solve the fact that RF is a terrible way to transmit a/v).

If your TV does not have RF input, you can use an RF demodulator or an old VCR to convert RF to Composite+Audio for use by your TV.

Or you can go all out and install RGB and/or S-Video out in your 2600. Notably, this is a relatively difficult mod, in the 2600 Jr. More difficult than in the earlier, larger models. But it's also not a walk in the park in their cases. The reason for this complexity being, the 2600 generates NTSC video directly and on-the-fly. So the only way to generate anything else is to do some pretty elaborate real-time memory inspection.

Purchase this
This
And this

If your monitor has DVI, which most monitors do, use an HDMI to DVI converter: http://www.amazon.com/Importer520-Plated-Female-DVI-D-Adaptor/dp/B0035B4LJM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1371659895&sr=8-4&keywords=hdmi+to+dvi

Or

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-HDMI-Adapter-Cable-Meters/dp/B001TH7T2U/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1371659928&sr=1-2&keywords=hdmi+to+vga

In my opinion, the best option is to buy a regular pair of great headphones, then buy a mic to go with them. No gaming headset will sound as good as a pair of headphones for the same price. Get a pair of headphones in your price range, then a mic and the audio splitter will be an extra $18.
I currently use a pair of Audio Technica M50x's, which I bought to listen to music with and wound up using them for gaming. They are very comfortable and sound fantastic, although I personally wish they had a bit more bass, for gaming. For a microphone, I prefer the Pyle-Pro PMEM1 Headworn Mic, because it sounds far better than any other microphone I’ve used. Some people like the Zalman Clip mic, but in my experience it didn’t capture my voice clearly and picked up a ton of ambient noise. I just wear the mic underneath the headphones, which is perfectly comfortable. MAKE SURE YOU BUY A SPLITTER! The mic won’t work on the PS4 without one. I use this one. Overall, it’s ~$180 for a great gaming setup, and you get an amazing pair of headphones that you can listen to music with and wear out of the house.
If you want to look into a different pair of headphones, The Wirecutter has some phenomenal advice on headphones. They also have a list for gaming headsets, and I would take their advice on those if you have your heart set on a headset.

Consider getting a cheaper pair of headphones The Wirecutter recommends if you won’t use the M50x’s for anything else other than gaming, but they are among the best headphones for listening to music, and work great for gaming.

Headphones:
https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Pro-PMEM1-Headworn-Omni-Directional-Microphone/dp/B003D2S7HA/ref=pd_ybh_a_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=8HYQKPP2BHCSX3M8WW8N

Mic:
https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Pro-PMEM1-Headworn-Omni-Directional-Microphone/dp/B003D2S7HA/ref=pd_ybh_a_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=8HYQKPP2BHCSX3M8WW8N

Splitter:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-headsets-separate-headphone-microphone/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=pd_ybh_a_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=05264WVDYHC2FG0SSX1W

Other Headphones:
http://thewirecutter.com/leaderboard/headphones/

no thats just a headphone splitter

you need : http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-headsets-separate-headphone-microphone/dp/B004SP0WAQ

The issue is your HDTV will not receive 240p signals.

240p is a "hack" of the tradition timing signals in a 480i video signal, which made each alternating field appear on the same set of lines, rather than alternating them. This allowed for a higher framerate at a perceived lower resolution. It also gave "retro" games the classic "scanline" effect we all remember so fondly, because each alternating line didn't have any video being projected onto it, so it appeared black.

A handful of later N64 games (The THPS series and Madden 2001 both included) use both modes interimittently, usually using the higher resolution for menus, allowing the lower resolution (but higher framerate) for gameplay.

Since, technically, this 240p mode is not part of the NTSC standard, modern TVs just don't support it. They "think" they're missing 1/2 of the signal, so they don't process it, and you get a black screen.

That is your issue.

To fix it, you need an upscaler which accepts this signal type. This is a huge rabbit hole, that depending on your dedication to retro-gaming as a hobby, and your budget, can cost anywhere from $25 to $400.

The $400 solution, which looks astounding on HDTV's, is the XRGB mini.

It costs this much because it is a dedicated piece of hardware that accepts everything from composite video to RGB SCART video, as well as component (via D-Terminal) and HDMI inputs.

It makes old games look as crisp as emulators do on HDTVs, and also allows for adjustable scanlines to be added. It lets you adjust color saturation and sharpness and about 10 other settings to make each console look perfect. It can be bought HERE.

The $25 solution is called an AV2HDMI and it is the best-looking out of the lower priced options, and it actually outclasses many composit-upscalers I have personally tested (it outclasses one that actually cost $120).

There is no reason to buy anything in between these two options, unless you are getting an SCART RGB upscaler. HERE is some captured footage of it working with an N64.


TL:DR: The old signal type isn't supported by your new TV, and the easy way to fix it is to buy a $25 AV2HDMI adapter

The 3.5mm headphone jack on modern MacBooks are analog/digital combo jacks. You can use a Toslink to 3.5mm Adapter to send digital audio from your MacBook.

I just ordered this beast of a case for my Zen 2 build, black ext/white int should look awesome with my ASUS X570 Prime Pro, planning to use the RGB fan frames with some Corsair ML140s.

FYI, it's kind of a cash grab by Phanteks but you need this $5 adapter to control the RGB fan frames with your mobo because they use a proprietary pinout.

You should check amazon for an extension bracket thing that makes it so you can hide your cables to the GPU easier! It’s like 5$ when on sale but probably like 15-20 normally. If you find it on sale I would say grab it cuz it makes your cables come out the side of the GPu rather than the front plus it will match since it’s made by EVGA. Your setup looks very clean though nice job! Only thing I would’ve done is maybe flip the AIO tubes but I mean that’s personal preference....

here I found the link

Here is a link to the item. It is currently on back-order which is why it doesn't appear on the regular page.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B01MQ1YEYH/ref=olp_f_new?ie=UTF8&f_primeEligible=true&f_new=true

That's a USB type C header, if your motherboard doesn't have one, you don't plug it in.

EDIT: though if you have an extra USB 3.0 header, you can get an adapter for it.

An amp is definitely not necessary. Your cabling is also definitely wrong and is the problem.

From the picture, it appears you have Edifier R1280T speakers. These have an amplifier built in and a line-level input too. (The back panels of the speakers look like this.)

Here's the solution:

• Run speaker cable from the speaker with the power switch to the other one. In other words, connect the black/red spring connectors to each other, making sure black connects to black and red to red. (You may already have done this.)
  
• Take the cables that you are using to connect the iPod, and put them aside and forget about them because they are the wrong kind^(1).
  
• Get a 3.5mm male to dual RCA male cable. These are a very common cable type and are available lots of places. Here's just one example from amazon. Hook this from the iPod^(2) to the "L" and "R" "AUX" inputs on the back of the speaker.
  
  ---
  ^(1) You can't plug banana connectors into RCA jacks. Nor can you use unshielded 2-conductor speaker wire to carry a stereo line-level signal, which requires shielded (coaxial) 3-conductor wire (or 4 conductors in the form of two 2-conductor shielded wires).
  
  ^(2) Or projector, which has the same connector, right?

hey friend, i recently wrote a "how to" setup APRS with a HT, Direwolf, and YAAC on linux. copy paste is below ...

edit:

If audio is getting from the radio to direwolf, check the volume levels on the radio output, and check the mic gain on your computer. These are really the only two settings that will affect how direwolf can rx and decode. Direwolf logs out when it receives something, and it tells you on a scale of 0-100 the volume level. I try to shoot for 50-60 and I get very consistent decode.


Tutorial: APRS software user interface, with software based audio TNC, and RF gateway

Overview:

APRS is a tool that was designed to convey information about objects, telemetry, and reporting, as well as communicate between individuals and groups with direct, and group messaging. Many people have the experience, or mindset, that APRS is used primarily for location tracking. This is partially due to the limitations on many hardware implementations of APRS that vendors have provided. One way to learn more about APRS as a broader, and more powerful system is to utilize software to visualize, and interact with other stations, and objects. This short tutorial will discuss how to setup a software based user interface (UI) for APRS that will provide you with mapping, messaging, and object manipulation abilities, as well as how to connect that UI through a software based audio modem, or TNC, directly to a radio, so that other users within your immediate range, as well as the range of any digipeaters will be able to interact with the same local APRS data without any reliance on the internet, or internet gateways.

User interface:

There are several different user interfaces available that have been designed for APRS.

UI-View is a popular piece of software which is no longer being maintained as the original author has passed away.

YAAC is a successor/replacement to UI-View which is cross platform (Java) with a intuitive interface, and many capabilites. We will be using YAAC for this tutorial.

Xastir is primarily a Linux application built on the X windows library system. It is quite functional, but is less intuitive and is currently less activly developed than YAAC.


Audio Modem (TNC):

TNC's originally were AX.25 packet assembler/dissasemblers with the addition of a modem to convert baseband digital signals into audio tones. In the case of a software TNC, it has the same capabilites, encoding and decoding both the AX.25 layer, and data layer to and from audio so it can be transmitted or received from a radio.

Direwolf is the premier audio tnc, which is documented to run on Windows, OSX, Linux, and single board computer Linux environments such as Raspberry Pi BeagleBone Black etc.

RF Gateway:

The RF gateway is probably the simplest piece in the equation. You need only a radio that supports audio in, audio out, and VOX. There may be some complexity if you choose to make your own cables, however there are ready made cables for popular and inexpensive radios (Baofeng) which are available for under $20 from amazon, which feature isolation to protect both your computer, and your radio.

Here is a link to a high quality cable available on Amazon, which works for Boafeng radios: https://www.amazon.com/APRS-K2-Connector-BaoFeng-APRSDroid-Compatible/dp/B01LMIBAZW


Supplementary:

It can be very helpful to have a radio that is capable of broadcasting an APRS beacon to test your setup as you go.

Your laptop may have a single plug for both headphone and microphone (TRRS) or it may have two seperate plugs. If you have two seperate plugs, you will need a splitter to seperate the microphone, and headphone connections from the cable linked to in the above RF gateway section. The cable linked below will split the two should you need it.

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-MUYHSFMM-Headset-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B0058DOWH6/


System setup:

We are going to build the APRS system from the ground up, starting with Direwolf, the audio modem/tnc and the RF gateway. If you are a Linux user, there are packages for direwolf in ubuntu/debian as well as yum based systems:

sudo apt-get install direwolf or sudo yum install direwolf

For Windows and OSX go to https://github.com/wb2osz/direwolf and follow the instructions to download the latest release and run direwolf from a command window.

direwolf does not need any configuration for our initial setup, simply run direwolf, connect the audio and microphone jacks between the computer and your radio, and tune your radio to 144.390.

Be certain that you do not have any rx-CTCSS or DCS tones setup. Set your squelch as low as it will go, and enable vox with the lowest setting possible on your radio. Now is the time when it is handy to have a HT that is capable of beaconing APRS data. If you have one, set it to beacon and you should start see data coming in on the terminal where direwolf is running. You may need to adjust the volume on the output of your radio, the output of your computer, as well as the microphone gain on your computer to get everything decoding properly.

Once you can reliably decode becons from a local HT, or from a digipeater within range, you can move on to setting up the YAAC user interface, and connecting it to direwolf.


YAAC, the APRS user interface software we are using, is a Java program and requires that your system has the Java runtime environment installed. For Linux users, be certain that you install the full JRE, and not a "headless" JRE, as the headless versions do not come with the graphical libraries that YAAC requires to run. Also as of this writing YAAC did not work with Java 9, however I experienced no problems using the OpenJDK Java 8 JRE so be sure to check the version you are installing.

After you have the Java Runtime Environment installed, download the self upacking binary for your operating system from the YAAC website at http://www.ka2ddo.org/ka2ddo/YAAC.html#install

For linux users, the file was not set as an executable, so I had to chmod +x YAAC_linux_x86.bin before running ./YAAC_linux_x86.bin

NOTE: YAAC does not extract itself into a directory - so you likely want to create a directory first, then move the self extracting file into that directory so that you dont end up with a bunch of files all over.

After the package has extracted, simply run the YACC.jar program. You can do this from the command line with: java -jar YACC.jar

YACC will ask you if you want help configuring it, select yes and walk through the steps configuring your call sign, latitude/longitude etc. When you get to the part about adding and configuring interfaces, select the option to "Add AGWPE Port". YACC will create a new window with default information populated - you MUST add your callsign, and change the transmit dropdown from "disabled" to "enabled". Click finish, and on the next screen you can decide whether you want to beacon or not (I chose yes) along with any free form comment you want, then click finish.

That is it - you have a basic APRS software station set up that can transmit, and recieve via RF link. You should see objects start to appear on the YAAC map view, and the direwolf command line output should match up with data YAAC is displaying.

Homework:

From here you can learn how to create message groups, chat directly with stations, place objects on the map so that they are only visible to other local RF stations, or so that they propegate out through the internet via a digipeater I-Gate (if one is in range) so that they show up on the APRS-IS backbone (e.g. aprs.fi).

It's a custom Bluetooth implementation, the actual hardware is basically a Bluetooth receiver. Even Bluetooth receivers can suffer from a poor cable, never underestimate the crappiness of cheap hardware. One of these should work fine:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH11PEY/

Actually connect this
StarTech.com Headset adapter for headsets with separate headphone / microphone plugs - 3.5mm 4 position to 2x 3 position 3.5mm M/F https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RtNiybQBKJPYG

Then the mono adapter to the headphone side

Then this,
Maeline 3.5mm Female to 2 Male Gold Plated Headphone Mic Audio Y Splitter Flat Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ewNiybTP946EB

I have a couple audiophile quality headphones (newest being my Hifiman HE-400i). I use a cheap lapel clip-on mic along with a 4-pole y-splitter adapter. Plug the headphones and mic into their spots on the splitter and then plug the splitter into your controller (or Mixamp, which I use). Works great.

My current setup is A50s and a Modmic plugged into a Y-adapter that plugs into the adapter and so far it works amazing. Let me try to get you links:

-Modmic (incredible quality; built to last and made by a guy who's just starting up):
http://www.modmic.com/

-Y-Adapter: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004SP0WAQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1394242076&sr=8-1

-Sennheiser (better for gaming, however the sound leaks so others can hear your music at a low volume (cant be used in public places)) http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004FEEY9A/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1394242127&sr=8-1

-A50s (what I have; perfect for music and great for gaming; very private and doesnt leak sound very much):
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000ULAP4U/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1394242250&sr=8-2

The modmic is magnetic and will stick
To your headset while having the ability to be taken off with ease to leave the headphones bare. The a50s are awesome for music and pretty good for gaming, but if you do gaming at about a 80-20 ratio to music listening than I would go with Sennheiser 558s or 598s. The y-adapter just allows you to combine both the headphones and the mic into one 3.5 mm AUX jack.

Total cost was about $165 (not including xbone adapter). Fairly good price for better headphones (structurally and sound-quality), ability to use everywhere and not look dumb with an attached mic, listen to music that sounds phenomenal, and speak in crystal clear quality to my buddies (who have already noticed how well it sounded in comparison to the xbone chat headsets).

TLDR: Get audiophile headphones, a modmic, and y adapter for a better and cheaper headset that can be used as normal headphones and as a headset (removable mic).

I actually just bought a PS3 last week and had the same questions. Thankfully, while I had no help from others I figured it out myself.

I have a Dell LCD monitor (1920x1080) that I connect to my PS3 with and a set of speakers for audio output.

Mine works perfectly fine and I have never had any problems with display (or any of the horror stories that you mentioned.)

I do not have MW3, but I do have many games that output video from 720p to 1080i to 1080p and they all work fine and look completely natural as you would expect.

Pieces of hardware that you will need:
A HDMI to DVI cable, a 3.5mm Stereo Male To 2X RCA Female Adapter or Y splitter as some people call it, and female stereo coupler if you are going to plug it into a speaker instead of your PC. If just using PC speakers, then you do not need a coupler.

As for monitor recommendations, chose any that have a 1920x1080 resolution and has a DVI connector (most modern monitors should have this as default).

Hope this helps!


Edit: If you have any questions, feel free to ask! I remember how confused I was trying to set everything up.

I hate viewing amazon mobile links on the desktop, the page is so blank and the pictures are uselessly small. Heres your list with normal links:

• Monitor: Lilliput 7" USB Monitor
  
  
• Keyboard/Mouse: Pro Mini USB wireless keyboard/touchpad
  
  
• Wireless: TP-LINK wireless usb adapter
  
  Adapters:
  
  
• DVI over cat5
  
  
• IDE SATA to USB
  
  
• Micro SD to USB with multiple cards
  
  
• Solar usb charger keyring
  
  
• HDMI 2 in 1 adapter
  
  
• DVI male to HDMI female
  
  
• DVI male to VGA female
  
  
• Displayport to DVI female
  
  
• DVI female to HDMI male
  
  
• USB hub
  
  
• Retractable RJ11/RJ45 cable

Another person asked a similar question a couple weeks ago. Here's the response I have him, which will likely help you:

Yes, you can use a computer monitor as a display for your PS3 (or nearly any video game console for that matter). There are multiple ways to set this up; I'm going to provide you with what I think is the easiest and what will give you the highest quality based on your setup. Note that there are other ways to do this, but I guarantee these instructions are what you are looking for.

-----

What you need you need to have:

• A computer monitor that supports DVI. Check to ensure your monitor has this port.
  
• An HDMI to DVI cable -OR- an HDMI cable + an HDMI to DVI adapter.
  
• A stereo audio (RGB) female to 3.5mm (headphone style) female adapter.
  
• A standard issue PS3 composite audio/video cable.
  
  If you don't have these cables, you can order them online or get them from Best Buy or Radio Shack (but they will be much cheaper online).
  
  Note: the audio adapter I mentioned above only supports traditional, analog speakers. In other words, make sure your speakers plug in using this type of connector.
  
  The HDMI to DVI goes from the PS3 into your monitor. The PS3 composite cables also get plugged into your PS3, and attach the audio adapter onto the red and white plugs on the PS3 composite cable (the yellow plug will just hang loose). Now, plug the headphone-style adapter into your speakers.
  
  On the PS3, just ensure that under Audio Settings, that "Multi Channel Output" is turned on.
  
  And that should do it. Hope this helps!
  

You bought "wrong" strip and wrong halos.

These are standard strips and standard halos, the 12V RGB.

Your EVOLV X case is meant to be used with ADDRESSABLE lighting, so Digital halo this one https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Halos-140mm-Digital-PH-FF140DRGBP_BK01/dp/B07BGWLH14


And WS2812B addressable strip like this https://www.amazon.com/Programmable-Aclorol-Individually-Addressable-Raspberry/dp/B07BKNS7DJ

or this (if you want to overpay for Phanteks overpriced strips) https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-PH-DRGBLED_Combo_01-Digital-Adapter-Compatible/dp/B07C1ZFRWW/


With these, then everything will check out. And you will be able to sync both your case with halo, strip and motherboard.


If you don't want your current purchase to go to waste (or can't return it), you need to purchase this https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Adapter-Specified-Control-PH-CB_RGB4P/dp/B01BZIBJAK/ and then you can connect HALO's and strips to your motherboard 4-pin 12V G R B headers but then, they wont sync with case, as case has to be connected separately to ADD_Header (5V data GND).


Check page 22 and 23 of case manual.

You need to 4 to 3 splitter. Then you can plug in the mic cable into the mic port and the speaker cable into the audio port. Here's a link StarTech MUYHSFMM 3.5mm 4 Pin to 2x3 Pin 3.5mm Headset Splitter Adapter - F/M https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058DOWH6/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Y5BRub08HK731

I bought a 4 pole to 3 pole splitter (they can be found on ebay for cheaper) for my earbuds that have a mic on them. My tower only has a dedicated mic and dedicated speaker jack, so this is the low cost solution.

Turns out the splitter flips the audio channels on my earbuds so I have to wear them backwards while gaming. Took me about 3 games to figure out why I was calling out every position wrong.

> framemeister

Sounds cool. Does not sound $400-500 cool.

It's called an OTG cable. Typed it into amazon and this is one of the first ones that popped up.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B4GGW5Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1421845379&sr=8-2&dpPl=1&dpID=41rZu34Yh5L&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

Plug that into your controller and then plug the USB part into the OTG cable and the other side into your phone/tablet. At least I think so. I don't own one personally but I'm pretty sure I've seen people recommend these before.

The Antlion Modmic would fit this need really well.

Or are you looking for something like this?

There are a few things you can do. Firstly, finding an S-video cable will provide you with the cheapest and easiest visual upgrade. The linked version is the most common, but there are better versions available. It's said that a cable with just S-video and no yellow composite output will provide a better picture than a combo cable, but in my opinion, the step up from composite to S-video is far more noticeable than the solo S-video upgrade. Should you want one though, the best one on the market seems to be the one Monster released. The downside here is that S-video is becoming increasingly dated, and many new HDTVs don't have them. Make sure to check and see if yours has an S-video input first!

If you want to go even deeper down this rabbit hole, there is a community dedicated to getting the best visuals out of retro devices, notably the wonderful people at www.retrorgb.com. You'll find a lot of great info there, and in regards to the n64, it sounds like certain colored models were more apt for enhanced modding than the original charcoal version. Most of their recommendations center around displaying on old CRTs though, so if you really want to display on an HDTV, you'll need to really drop some cash.

Specifically, you'd need this beast of an upscaler. you'll see info about this thing on the RetroRGB site, but basically what it does is works solely to convert and upscale the SD output of the older consoles into pixel perfect HD images, with as little input lag as possible. It's not cheap, but many people swear by this device.

Last but not least, you could simply play the waiting game. There will inevitably be a successor to the Retron 5 that plays n64 games in upscaled HD the way the current iteration does. And while you wait, the GameCube, virtual console, and especially the 3ds version of OOT all have improved stability and performance overall.

Hope this is helpful!

Here are your options:

• Real hardware and an upscaler like the xrgb mini: Expensive, but does a much better job of upscaling than your TV will do. Basically, this means that games with tight timing will be more playable with the xrgb mini than with just a TV. For games like mega man and super ghouls 'n ghosts, I found the lag on my TV's upscaler made the games even harder than they already are.
  
• Use a clone system: The retron is probably the best in this area but I have 0 experience. The retron 5 is the latest. Make sure to check the reviews. There is also a portable super nintendo clone that can plug into a TV.
  
• Real hardware but modded with HDMI support: Also expensive and I don't think anyone has done this for the SNES yet.
  
• VirtualConsole on the Wii or Wii U: If you want to be legit you can buy some games from the eShop for about $4-10 depending on sales and title. You could also do a software mod to the Wii (or Wii portion of Wii U) and install emulators using the homebrew channel.
  
• Use emulators on a computer: Some people build a dedicated emulator machine using a raspberry pi but you could also just install an emulator on whatever computer you have. Higan is a very nice emulator if you go this route. I like the 8bitdo controllers. The USB only version is like 1/3 the price of the bluetooth version, but both versions can do USB. They are well made. I have the bluetooth version and I like it (and I'm very picky about emulation, controllers, etc. as I grew up with the original systems).
  
  I used emulators like higan until getting a CRT and rebuying real hardware (I wish I had my systems from growing up but they are lost to the ages). Now that setup is my preferred way.
  
  I hope that helps.

To answer your question @Helixcod:
Yes and no, you can play it anywhere you have an internet connection, but you will have to VPN (on a network outside of the one your PC resides on). They will be adding the feature to play it elsewhere soon though. You will also need a program like Pinnacle to play on the built-in controller, as well as a controller hooked up to your PC. The Pinnacle profile/addon can be found here This is actually something I made and it is still in testing, but I seemed to like the way it worked.

I have the Nvidia Shield and when I tested ESO on it, it ran pretty well. I have quite a few adapters/cables to allow me to not only play on the HDTV, but also wired internet. The Shield takes a mini HDMI to HDMI cable and to play with wired internet, you need an OTG (On the Go) adapter and a specific network adapter. I say specific because not all will work. The OTG adapter allows you to plug in USB cables into the Shield through the charging port (same port as most android phones). The network adapter allows you to plug an ethernet cable into the Shield for better connectivity. I also bought a hub so I could use all of these as well as an Xbox 360 controller.

The OTG adapter can be found here. The ethernet adapter can be found here.

Had a lot of fun with my Shield, but I bought a gaming laptop, so I won't be playing it too much anymore. Cool to have though. They will be adding remote gaming soon, so you can connect to your PC and game on an outside network.

I would say overall, it is very much worth this price. It's a cool device to play with and if you want a bit of freedom (but don't have a gaming laptop) go for it. It is considered an Android Tablet, so all of the Google Play store apps will work with it. If you have any more questions, let me know.

PS: No I'm not an Nvidia sales rep :P

Spare yourself lots of agony and get this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH11PEY
and this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CM381SQ.

Then run it near the trainer & power meter if you have one.

Although BLE is superior to ANT+ in a general sense, all the applications have more mature ANT+ support.

i would get a 1/8" male to rca male adapter like you would use to plug your phone into a stereo system. like this http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CMR206-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B000068O33

You need an 1/8" to RCA cable like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMR-206-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B000068O33. Plug it into the aux input.

http://webassets.scea.com/e3-2013/webasset/ps4-hrdware-large10.jpg

Does anyone know how I can get stereo audio output and HDMI video output at the same time? My current setup for my PS3 is with my HDMI connected to my computer monitor with this. And I have the audio cord connected to my Speakers with this. Would anyone know if I could replicate that with the PS4?

EDIT: Would this work?

Option 1: A Digital Output to 3.5mm Audio adapter connected my speakers which in turn is connected to the PS4 via a optical audio cable?

Option 2: Digital Audio to Analog Audio cable.

Option 3: HDMI audio/video splitter, this looks absolutely perfect.

My head tells me that these won't work cause when I was google searching, an actual converter box required DC power. If anyone had any experience with this, please help me out.

Anyone using a newer Mac should check the specs on the audio output... for many of them, that little 1/8" RCA jack is also capable of outputting optical. If so, you need a toslink to optical mini adapter for about a dollar plus postage and handling. My local Apple store didn't even know this!

And, yeah... I had cable, realized I just never used it anymore, and dumped it; no regrets.

Your monitor doesn't have speakers, and you need speakers to get the sound, so the simple solution is to buy a set of computer speakers!

If the computer speakers have RCA inputs connectors, you will be good to go with the cables you have. If the computer speakers you buy have a 1/8" (also called 3.5mm) stereo input connectors, you will need one of these: http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-40645-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B000J1H4VI/ref=pd_sim_e_2

Buy a stereo female RCA to 3.5mm male Y adapter. Then, you can connect it to your PC speakers. Just remember to change your PS3's audio output settings to output using the RCA cables. Here is what you need.

http://www.amazon.com/Cables-Go-Stereo-Female-Adapter/dp/B000J1H4VI/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1289730471&sr=1-8

I'm not fully understanding what you're going for here but if you can't find a light with a female connection you can always get a gender adapter. Something like this maybe: http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-A-Male-A-Female-Extension-Cable/dp/B001TH7GUU

Here ya go https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0028MXOF6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484368983&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=atari+tv+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=41Wm0oVyXyL&ref=plSrch

Pick up either an adapter or adapter plus hdmi to connect your gpu to the TV. If you check everything that came with your gpu you may already have the adapter.

ATI Radeon 5870 Eyefinity Edition. link
got one of these and it's currently powering 5 monitors.

If you don't have display port, you need "active adapters" for everything above 2 non-display port. You also can't use analog VGA monitors. (they have to be digital)

Here's an adaptor for $30. link It only works for resolutions up to 1920x1080.

Edit: I haven't really researched the 6950 and 6990 series but those are the newest generation and they might not even need active adapters. I'll look into it ^_^

Here's a page with AMD's new offerings to the table. a few 6950's might be your best bet link

Upon further research, something like this would work well.

On Amazon, search for "microphone splitter adapter" and find one that looks like this:

http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-MUYHSMFF-Headset-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1411316777&sr=1-3&keywords=microphone+splitter+adapter

Then connect the headphone part to a set of speakers. (if your sound system accepts Red/White cables as input, you can buy a 3.5 mm stereo jack to Red/White cable converter at many different lengths.) Then connect your pin mic to the mic connector and connect both to the controller via the adapter.

As the audio from the TV and the headphones might be different, I'd recommend connecting the headphone part to a separate set of speakers.

I feel for your condition. I don't like headphones either, but I don't have some condition.

Both will work, you just need to get one of these adapters if you don't already have one: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-headsets-separate-headphone-microphone/dp/B004SP0WAQ

The surround sound (Windows Sonic for Headphones or Dolby Atmos for Headphones) will work on everything. No worries there. It's the mic monitoring (being able to hear yourself talk) that doesn't work with the original headphone adapter: https://www.xbox.com/en-US/xbox-one/accessories/headsets/stereo-headset-adapter

Mic monitoring DOES work on the newer Xbox One controllers that have a built in 3.5mm jack or the mini-keyboard attachment. I use the keyboard attachment on my old controller to get mic monitoring.

Here is the keyboard attachment I'm talking about: https://www.xbox.com/en-US/xbox-one/accessories/communications/chatpad

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-headsets-separate-headphone-microphone/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1500711129&sr=1-1&keywords=StarTech.com+Headset+adapter+for+headsets+with+separate+headphone+%2F+microphone+plugs+-+3.5mm+4+position+to+2x+3+position+3.5mm+M%2FF

That's the problem. Here's what you will need: http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-headsets-separate-headphone-microphone/dp/B004SP0WAQ

Notice that this one has four conductors and yours has three. Don't waste your time looking in stores because it's very rare that anybody has it. Unfortunately you're gonna have to wait for shipping. You can find the same adapter on Newegg and Walmart.com if you would prefer.

You'll also need one of these. The splitter isn't going to work unless the bit that plugs into your controller is four pole (three black lines).

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SP0WAQ?ie=UTF8&at=&force-full-site=1&ref_=aw_bottom_links

I use this to connect my Siberia v2 headset to the chat adapter and it works perfectly :)

If the microphone has a standard output in addition to USB, you could always try something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SP0WAQ

It looks like it has 3.5mm mic and 3.5mm headset connectors. You'd need a 2x3-pole to 1x4-pole connector. I use this one from Amazon.

Would this work?


You may want to get the EVGA 1080ti FTW3, because it is only two slot, and has smaller fans, so not too wide. And it has enough fans so it doesn't get too hot, unlike the smaller 2 fan designs.

Check out the EVGA Powerlink if you don't want your cables blocking the LED panel on your GPU!

I guess this is a repost from yesterday. Today it's $3.52 but it's an Add on purchase. I think they sold out yesterday. Plenty in stock and the sale should hold for a good while. For those who bought one yesterday for $5, you can just contact Amazon chat and tell them to refund the difference or just cancel your old order and buy this one if you want save a dollar ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

I just bought a game that doesn't release for a while and once my powerlink ships, I'll cancel the preorder
Don't do that per u/the_khemist

EDIT: Per CamelCamelCamel, this is the lowest historical price?

I've already been looking into this a bit for possible options that don't include the connector on the board. Mainly AMD, minus the Impact board. Intel seems to have some options so it's less necessary. So far I found 3 possible options that I will probably try since I just got the Ncase today and there is no ETA on the Impact yet, and availability will probably be terrible.

1. Use a splitter cable and an adapter to plug both in at the same time. I believe this will only work when using one set of USBs at a time though.
   
   
2. Using the same adapter, if you happen to have dual M.2 slots, certain mobos might be able to make use of an M2 to USB3 header adapter. This should be able to run both at the same time although maybe not at the full speed.
   
   
3. Or the least desired option, having the adapter card in the USB3 header for USBC connector, and using a USB2 adapter to convert the USB3 type A into just normal USB ports.

I want to point out that you don't necessarily need a RCA out. A standard 1/8" is fine as you can use a 1/8" to rca cable. My previous setup was Fiio e10k as a DAC into Topping TP22 into those micca speakers.

If you run an optical cable from your MBP's audio port, you won't need an external sound card. Instead, you'll be relying on the DAC in your receiver, which will probably be quite good.

In case you weren't aware, the 3.5mm stereo port on your MBP doubles as an optical output with the correct adapter such as this.

USB 2.0 spec limits cable length to 5 meters. But you could buy a few of these and put them together and see if that will work:
Amazon link

You can buy USB powered repeaters to go really long distances though. I've seen them in corporate settings: random link from google

Yeah, TVs definitely dont have that anymore. Lol you can get a little adapter that converts it to an RF jack. They cost like 3 or 4 bucks. I've posted a link to one on Amazon. Or if you have a local retro game store you can go to they usually have them.

Atari 2600 RF TV Coaxial F Plug Female Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0028MXOF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_g4m4BbXQ2Q7ED

It should be capable providing you don't use the HDMI port. You'd need a mini DisplayPort to full size DisplayPort cable/adapter or mini DP to DL-DVI. The latter is a bit confusing to me, as historically Apple has offered something like this, but reviews for this simple cable show it displays at least 120hz just fine.

If it's new enough and it only has a single jack it's probably a TRRS plug, meaning headphones and mic on the same connector. Simple adapter has that covered. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SP0WAQ

I've personally never heard of retasking a normal TRS headphone only port.

Actually your first image shows an adapter you would need on airplanes where they have those weird double plugs (whoever came up with those must've had a bit too much of something, amirite?).

What OP probably needs is this. This thing enables you to turn a single plug headset into a dual-plug headset so you can plug in the headphone-jack and microphone-jack separately like you would on most computers.

The opposite would be this which would enable you to use a regular pc-headset with 2 plugs to plug it into your single headset jack on your smartphone or macbook etc.

Here's the female to male connector version: https://www.amazon.com/d/Audio-Video-Cables/StarTech-com-Position-Headset-Splitter-Adapter/B0058DOWH6/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1481915575&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=3.5mm+4+position+to+2x+3+position+3.5mm+F%2FM

No TV at the market uses nearest neighbor. It uses different algorithms. Most uses Bicubic interpolation or bilinear interpolation (or some variation of them).

Every application has an optimal way to upscale. Most modern games, as the ones in a Playstation 4, could benefit even from bicubic interpolation. Nowadays many games already uses internal processes to upscale from 900p to 1080p.

BUT if you play any pixel art game, as Shovel Knight, the upscaling with the wrong process can alter the image.

Other risk of using more complex upscaling methods is input lag. EVERY image processing that requires a framebuffer will incur of some input lag. Even very efficient methods. And that is the problem with cheaper scalers. most doesn't work fast enough to incur in a negligible input lag. For classic gaming (usually a 240p signal), i suggest the Framemeister (https://www.amazon.com/DP3913515-Framemeister-Micomsoft-Upscaler-Denpashinbunsya/dp/B006H39XJS)

The first one definitely is not how it would look on a modern TV, they do upscaling on lower signals that doesn't really translate well to pixelated graphics. You can use something like the framemeister to upscale pixel images to 1080p properly.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=silverstone+cable+sleeves

http://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Extension-Motherboard-Connector-PP07-MBW/dp/B00B46XJQ6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1465078435&sr=8-2&keywords=silverstone+cable+sleeves

http://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Sleeved-Extension-Connector-PP07-EPS8W/dp/B00B46XKK6/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1465078435&sr=8-6&keywords=silverstone+cable+sleeves

etc

they look nice with my black and white build, much better than the default cables.

http://prntscr.com/bcf2gs

I used extension cables which are a much cheaper alternative to full custom sleeved cables.

I use this one:

http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Gigabit-Ethernet-Chromebook-Specific/dp/B003VSTDFG

It has built in drivers in Android. Plug it in, and the Nexus Player will automatically use it instead of wifi.

If you're ONLY plugging it in with no hub, use this:

http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-5in-Micro-Host-Adapter/dp/B00B4GGW5Q

Edit:
Sorry, I saw that you linked to Amazon.ca, so:

Network Adapter:

http://www.amazon.ca/Plugable-Gigabit-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B003VSTDFG/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

USB Dongle:

http://www.amazon.ca/StarTech-com-5-Inch-Female-On-The-Go-Adapter/dp/B00B4GGW5Q/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

Hey, I'm a long-time PC and console player, I might be able to answer some questions. It sounds like a lot of the other commenters are on the right track, too.

1 - Do you have a HDMI 2 or 2.2 port? Then yes. If you only have HDMI 1.4, probably not. My Dell 4K monitor only has HDMI 1.4 (I use DP for 4K), so it can only support 30hz at 4K resolutions. You want 60hz support. My monitor supports 1080p and 1440p at 60hz, it's just a bandwidth limitation of the older HDMI port.

2 - The other comments are spot on. Uncharted and The Last of Us are great choices. Keep in mind that not all games have official PS4 Pro patches, so it'll be just like playing them on a normal PS4. However, for games that do have a patch already (like Uncharted 4 and The Last Of Us, and a lot of the other games people have listed) you'll generally have a better looking/running experience. Uncharted 4 is gorgeous on the PS4 Pro!

3 - Yes and no. Do you want to connect to the console itself, or the controller? The controller has a 4-pole 3.5mm jack, so you can use headphones and mics with it. However, the controller can't drive high-impedance headphones that well (it's designed for earbuds). I initially used Beyerdynamic DT770 80ohms with it, but I had to max the volume out and it still wasn't very loud. Now, I use a Corsair gaming headset. If you get something like this, it has the 4-pole connector (audio and mic on one plug) so it should plug right in and work great. If you want to use another mic and your existing headphones, you can get an adapter like this that takes a 3.5mm headphone jack and mic jack, and joins them into the PS4 jack. Also, if you have any earbuds with a built-in mic, like ones that come with an iPhone, those should work too.

I don't believe the Blue Snowball has a 3.5mm out, but if you want to use your headphones, a cheap clip-on lapel mic should work, or use the clip-on earbud that comes with the Pro and just ignore the headphone portion. That and the joining adapter would work. The Snowball will likely also work if you plug it in to the USB port on the front or back, it's at least worth a shot. There are a dozen different ways to use your current stuff, you just have to decide how much you want to spend or how much hassle you want to go through.

4 - No, just to play online and access PS+ games.

5 - There may be promotions from various retailers that will give you a game, but by default I don't believe it does. Mine didn't.

6 - I normally get about 10-12 hours of life out of mine. I charge through the system, so I can't answer your other questions, but I assume it does. You can leave your console in rest mode (where it can download patches automatically if you have PS+) and that's a good way to charge the controller. I leave mine plugged in during rest mode, and just unplug it when I want to play. It stops charging automatically.

If you have any other questions, I'll do what I can to help!

These have worked very well for me ...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH11PEY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So this is basically what I would be looking for? Super!

Still saving money over having to buy a adapter.

I use this one and it works flawlessly. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Z08TZNU/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have no issues sending a 120hz 240p signal through it to my Trinitron if that's what you're looking to buy it for.

can i use one of these to use with this headset with the adapter for chat and game sound?

There are literally thousands of products on Walmart's shelves. You can't really expect minimum wage employees to have intimate knowlege of everything in the store. More than likely he just wanted to get you moving.

And jeez, how much did you spend on the thing? Here's one for six dollars.

Exactly, really need to watch out for the splitters. Even though this is the Canadian link, this is basically the one I'm using. Hope this helps OP.

The port expects a 4 pin connector (combined headset and mic), but you have two 3-pin connectors. You need to combine them with something like this -

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-muyhsmff-adaptador-divisor-auriculares/dp/B004SP0WAQ

The Q&A says it works with the console.

It will work with TRS/TRS to TRRS adapter like this one.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SP0WAQ/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 get this.

You could get one cheaper from Amazon

http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-MUYHSMFF-Headset-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B004SP0WAQ/

Somthing like these should do https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-headsets-separate-headphone-microphone/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1467047543&sr=1-1&keywords=Headphone+mic+adapter

Buy the following:

1. Lapel Microphone
   
   

• https://www.amazon.com/Neewerx9886-x53E3-x9EA6-Computer-Microphone/dp/B005DJOIHE/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1519762441&sr=1-3&keywords=mini+lapel+microphone
  
  
  

2. Mic/Heaphone Splitter
   
   

• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SP0WAQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  Plug your headset & a lapel mic into the splitter and plug into your controller. This works on any pair of headphones. I've used this on Sony's, Beats, etc. Game audio comes through the headsets and you use the lapel mic to capture your voice.

[The mic] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DJOIHE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_mh.EAbZBECV82) and the [Adapter that is required] ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6h.EAbVZTRWYW)

It would need to be a TRRS, no?

Try this

The jack has both audio and mic on the same jack. In order to use both a headphone and a mic, you need a cable like this. This is not a splitter for two headphones, one is for a mic and one is for the headphones.

Neither: Get an Audio-Technica M40x/M50x or Sennheiser HD 598 and an Antilion ModMic, both of which will beat the quality of the sound/microphone of the Astros. If you really want surround sound, you can use Razer Surround to virtualize it, similar to what the "gaming" headsets do. Also, if you only have one headphone jack free, you can use an adapter like this.

Hope this helps, and feel free to ask any questions!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SP0WAQ/

Get one of those. Go into your sound settings on your PS4 and set it to play all sounds through headset. Now you can plug in your existing stereo headphones and a PC microphone, or any stereo PC headset with normal stereo and mic plugs.

Well the E10k is a dac/amp and I would take the Micca Origen over it. A headset usually needs a separate mic input if you have two plugs you just extend the mic to the soundcard and leave the headphones in the dac/amp. If you only have a single 3.5mm with 4 poles you would need an adapter to split them.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004SP0WAQ/

These exist. Small, cheap. And no latency of a USB sound card.

(Not an endorsement for that particular item, I've bought some from clearance bins and it's such a basic piece of hardware it's hard to mess up.)

I think you are in need of this.

You haven't said what your headset's connectors are...

Edit: If I assume your headset uses 2 3.5mm ports, then these would be what you're looking for:
http://amzn.com/B004SP0WAQ . Less than 7 bucks; get it on Tuesday with Prime.

You definitely can use regular headphones. If you have a pair without a built in mic, you can add one. I just added a mic to my AKG K550s with these:
>http://amzn.com/B004SP0WAQ

>http://amzn.com/B00029MTMQ

You need one of these: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-MUYHSFMM-Headset-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B0058DOWH6

Most desktop motherboards don't support combo jacks like what your headset is and some laptops use. That splitter will allow you to split the headphone and microphone parts out so that you can plug them into different ports and it is in the config that your mobo expects.

TRRS -----> Tip (Left Channel), Ring (Right Channel), Ring (Common/Ground), Sleeve (Microphone +)

Yes, you can buy an extension, but unless your computer input panel is 4-pin capable then you will still have the same problem

Heres an extention: http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-MUHSMF2M-Position-Headset-Extension/dp/B008DWGLLO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1406307141&sr=8-2&keywords=StarTech.com+3.5mm+4+Position+TRRS

and here's what I think you need. This will split the signal into two outputs: one for headphones, one for audio. just plug one into the headphone jack on the computer and one into the microphone jack.You may need to switch them around the first time you try them because this one isn't labeled.
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-MUYHSFMM-Headset-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B0058DOWH6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1406307228&sr=8-2&keywords=4-pin+TRRS+to+computer

Replace "male to female" with "female to male" and you get what you're looking for
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0058DOWH6

You'll want to connect the LSR-305 to the PB-1000 using RCA-1/4" like this. Then connect your PC to you PB-1000 using a 1/8"-RCA like this.

The PB-1000 have a fixed 80Hz high-pass on the RCA output so it's important that you use them to get the most out of your LSR-305.

If you didn't get the answer to this specifically, here is an example of the kind of cable you need to go from your computer into a DJ type mixer:

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CMR206-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B000068O33

To get the most out of your monitors, you should be using an audio interface or USB DAC with balanced outputs.

That being said, you could get away with one of these (coming from the "L-Out" on the computer), with 2 of these (one for each monitor).

Right now you are taking an unbalanced 2 channel output into a mono 1 channel input - hence why you only get one working at a time.

I run a very similar setup. I run an M-Audio Axiom 49 into my Macbook and run it through Ableton. I have ran a 1/4" converter out of my headphone jack into a DI box for shows in the past. It works. Something like this would probably work a little better if your DI has an RCA in. Then running it to FOH via XLR should be no problem.

I just recently bought an external usb soundcard that has stereo balanced 1/4" out, but haven't used it for a show yet.

Given your budget and space available I have a suggestion and it isn't surround sound. Reason being is that doing it well is expensive and doing it cheap just makes it inferior to a well setup system with fewer speakers.

https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-CR-CR3-Reference-Multimedia/dp/B00KVEIY4E

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0063NU3AA

Small studio monitors + a dedicated 10" subwoofer. Good amounts of detail, a night and day difference vs what you have now. You will need a 3.5mm output, split into RCA lines. You will then need to split said RCA lines and run one set to the subwoofer and another to the studio monitors.

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMR-206-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B000068O33

https://www.amazon.com/CableWholesales-Audio-Piggyback-Cable-Female/dp/B000I98ZE6

Yes, that's the right cable. I know because I have the same converter for my late 2008 Macbook Pro. If you're looking to use it as an external monitor, then you should be set, but if you want to run sound through your TVs speakers, you may need one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CMR206-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B000068O33/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1347413115&sr=1-2&keywords=rca+to+1%2F8+cable

It's not a Toslink connector, if that's what you're thinking.

It's a 3.5mm connector that can be adapted to Toslink, like this:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002MQGRM/?tag=support-simkl-20&sa-no-redirect=1

I've never in my life seen anybody use a laptop audio port for optical audio though.

yes.

Get something like this http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-40645-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B000J1H4VI/ref=sr_1_10?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1382909261&sr=1-10&keywords=rca+to+3.5mm+y+cable

plug the RCA's into the red and white, plug that headphone end into the mic or line/in into the pc's ports.

Alternately, you can go RCA to headphone, then just Y cable between the PS3 and computer's sound out.

~~You could probably use something like this with one of these and one of these. I just grabbed the first search results so better prices could be found easily.
edit* you'd also need to find a female to female 3.5mm connector as well.... you might be better off finding a jack and having someone solder the connections. (this plus this and this)~~

or you could just get one of these

You will need these. Don't skimp out on a chep VGA cable. I bought one of the knock-offs on amazon and had terrible ghosting due to poor shielding.

http://www.amazon.com/Xbox-360-VGA-HD-AV-Cable/dp/B000B6MLTG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1377820603&sr=8-4&keywords=xbox+360+vga

http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-40645-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B000J1H4VI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377820697&sr=8-1&keywords=female+rca+to+3.5mm

I also use one of these for my setup.

http://xim3.com/

Just make sure what ever headset you get is USB, having to deal with adapters can become a major pain in the ass - if they even work at all.


here is what i got Logitech H390


and a 10ft USB extension cord

I use this mouse. It is a logitech MX revolution. It is super comfortable with that spot to rest your thumb. And the clicky thing below the mouse wheel lets you select if you want to scroll slowly or quickly.

I also use an Astro A50 headset. This thing is sooo fucking comfortableit's crazy. It was really expensive though, but the wireless can get me a solid 12-15 yards, so I can still listen while I'm in the kitchen.

finally, get one of these and set it up on your table so that if either the mouse or the headset get low on battery you can plug it in and stay seated where you are. But both of those things actually have pretty good battery life. A full nights charge will get you a days worth of gameplay.

I use this for my gs3, charges super fast. With the original cable it totals about 14 ft

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-A-Male-A-Female-Extension-Meters/dp/B001TH7GUU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1346046164&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+extension+cable

These will save your life.

The best way to troubleshoot to diagnosing each part. Like using the power adapter and tv switch with a known working atari. Also, one thing you can do to eliminate tv issues is buy one of these suckers:

http://www.amazon.com/Atari-2600-Coaxial-Plug-Female-Adapter/dp/B0028MXOF6

I would almost say it's required for the 2600 now a days just because of how much the switch boxes suck. You can get two at radio shack for a few bucks.

If you don't have access to another atari, you can use a voltmeter to check the power source. Touch the two tips to the two rings on the power cord while the plug is in the wall, the meter should show around 9v. You might be able to look up ways to diagnose the board itself with a voltmeter. Taking it apart and looking for components that look bulged or broken might help too.

Worst case, there may be some services that you can ship your atari to for a tune up, but I've never used them before. Good luck!

Do you NEED a switch box, or would the RF to coax adapter work? Like this: http://www.amazon.com/Atari-2600-Coaxial-Plug-Female-Adapter/dp/B0028MXOF6

The RCA connection on the back of the Atari is a combination audio/video jack and it needs an RF converter. If you want to use a coax connection, you'll need something like this to convert it to coax:

https://smile.amazon.com/Coaxial-Female-Adapter-not-machine-specific/dp/B0028MXOF6/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=coax+atari&qid=1555814729&s=gateway&sr=8-1

If your TV’s coax connector is broken, you can use an old VCR to convert coax to separate RCA video and audio (yellow/red/white connectors on the back of the TV if you have them).

If you’re decent at soldering, you can modify your Atari to use standard yellow and white RCA connectors for audio and video instead of the combo RF signal that comes from the built-in port. You’l need to know which Atari 2600 model you have before you order a kit and make the modification.

https://www.instructables.com/id/ATARI-2600-Video-Composite-mod/

Otherwise, you might want to see if you can get the coax repaired on your TV and just use something like what’s linked above.

I would suggest getting a Mini DisplayPort to DisplayPort Cable instead of that adapter. Getting the cable instead would be much cheaper, and do the same job.

Here is one: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-32AWG-Mini-DisplayPort-Cable/dp/B0034X6SCY

I have that same exact monitor, running on a Mac Pro. You need to use a Thunderbolt to DisplayPort cable, or I think it's properly called a Mini DisplayPort to DisplayPort cable. Like this

I'm able to run at 144hz on both OSX and Windows (bootcamp), and it is lovely.

Well, easy enough. Just use an DVI to HDMI Adapter, plug the HDMI into this HDMI to RCA box and then use a common RCA to Scart Cable.

^^^1080p ^^^guaranteed. ^^^^If ^^^^you ^^^^do ^^^^this, ^^^^please ^^^^send ^^^^pictures

You can get an hdmi to dvi adapter.

As for the speakers, it looks like the PS4 has an optical out. So either you need a head unit (like a surround sound system) or else a converter. I personally suggest getting a surround sound system, but the choice is yours. You can get an adapter off amazon here

http://www.amazon.com/Importer520-Plated-Female-DVI-D-Adapter/dp/B0035B4LJM/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1464212805&sr=1-6&keywords=hdmi+to+dvi

2 dollars?

Just get one of these

https://www.amazon.ca/Leegoal-Plated-Female-DVI-D-Adapter/dp/B0035B4LJM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486961997&sr=8-1&keywords=dvi+to+hdmi+adaptor

Well the cheapest GPU on pacpartpicker that natively has 3 HDMI outputs would be a Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1050. But if you're not gaming and all you want are 3 simple 1080p 60hz displays then all you really need is a GPU like this and an HDMI to DVI adapter / HDMI to VGA cable. Do note that not because a video card has 3 ports means that it can output 3 simultaneous displays.

From the way you describe your setup you'll need an HDMI female to DVI-D male.

Here's one on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Importer520-Plated-Female-DVI-D-Adapter/dp/B0035B4LJM/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1451673537&sr=1-5&keywords=hdmi+to+dvi+adapter

Or if you need it quicker you can go to your local computer store and get ripped off at around $5-10

I always reccommend the QNIX QX-2710. since it's the most budget friendly and is just as good as other Korean 1440p monitors with the added bonus of being overclockable

• $275-$300
  
  
• 1440p
  
• PLS Panel (Samsungs equivalent of IPS)
  
• 27"
  *Overclockable up to 120hz
  
  (usually reaches around the 90's on average)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  What video outputs does your GTX 590 Have?
  
  For the desktop you'll likely be able to keep all 3 monitors hooked up, you just need to make sure that the 1440p monitor is connected using Dual Link DVI which your card may have and if not you can do through some variant of display port adapter like a DP or Mini-DP to DL-DVI adapter and you can use the remaining video output for the 2x 1080p monitors
  
  For the Macbook pro you can do the same thing, just use one mini display port adapter to DL-DVI, and another adapter to one of the video inputs that the peripheral 1080p monitor accepts and you can use the HDMI for the 3rd monitor using the second 1080p one you own.

Why don't you just get one of these?

you can just get a splitter adapter. No need to take the headset apart. https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-headsets-separate-headphone-microphone/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484808195&sr=8-3&keywords=headphone+mic+splitter

http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-MUYHSMFF-Headset-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B004SP0WAQ

I just use a pair of over-the-ear headphones that I really like along with a Zalman mic and it works fine. Put them together with this and pop it right into the controller like a dedicated headset. Haven't had issues yet, and I can easily swap between open-backed headphones and closed-back headphones.

I'm very dumb with these things but shouldn't you be using it with something like this?

http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-MUYHSMFF-Headset-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=cm_cd_ql_qh_dp_t

I would get a headset / adapter personally. I think you can get a much better deal. I got the Steelseries Siberia v2 with this spliter cable for the 2 3.5mm jacks, and the sound quality is AMAZING. For under $100 (headset, adapter, cable) these bad boys are well worth it. I even checked out the XO 4 and 7's as well as other various TB headsets (at gamestop) and imo the sound quality was not nearly as good. Not to mention having gamed for years I haev had a lot of freaking headsets in the past, these are sooooo comfortable you wont realize they are on (I fell asleep with them on last night listening to a movie and fiancee had to take them off me lol). They self adjust to fit your head (but not toooo snug and tight), the mic pops back into the earcup when dont need it, and the ear cups are HUGE, my ears are completely covered, it really dampers outside noise, with them on (not even listening to music) I can barely hear the person speaking thats next to me

Invest 30 bucks in this, not super loud but its good enough and its a third the price of the cheapest sena headset

Reciever Audio Only $16

Speakers $14

This is my setup and I love it only downside is no microphone but I usually ride alone so it doesn't matter to me

Edit: so I recently ordered these

Receiver Mic and Audio $20

Mic $5

Adapter $6

I'm trying to come up with a bluetooth calling set up if anyone is interested I can make a diy on how I put all this together, I will also report the quality of the new parts at a later date

Yes and no, you can't plug it directly into the Mobo RGB header, you need the adapter.

I don't think my case came with one. (I have the p400s TG)

If you really want to spaz out on RGB This comes with 2 LED strips and an adapter, and it's only $12 more

edit: Oh, and FYI, ASUS Aura handles those RGB strips beautifully!

I used these: they need an adapter, but they work great with ASUS Aura. Thanks!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M0R3CFQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BZIBJAK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It’s called an EVGA powerlink, basically it reroutes the cables to come out the side of the graphics card.

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-PowerLink-Support-Founders-600-PL-2816-LR/dp/B01MQ1YEYH/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518316903&sr=8-1&keywords=evga+powerlink

Hey have you considered getting the EVGA PowerLink it's only $10 on Amazon. Will make the cable management a little cleaner

Well, there are adaptor cards for both of you.

You could buy an expansion card like this with the connector and your wife may adapt it to the internal 3.0 header (e.g., won't be as fast but it at least it would be usable) or use an expansion card with the internal header :)

I believe you may be looking for an adapter like this?

Your board has 2 internal USB 3.1 Gen 1 connectors that this can plug into. You won't be getting Gen 2 speeds of course, but the port will be functional at gen 1 speed.

And your board most definitely has a front panel audio header.

Something like this might work

What your headset has is a 4 pole TRRS jack, which means that it combines both headphone output and microphone input in one wire. The way to have both elements recognised by your computer is to get a 4-pole TRRS to 2x 3-pole TRS adaptor so that you can plug the headphone output and mic input into separate jacks.

Something like this would work:https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-Position-Headset-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B0058DOWH6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1480274772&sr=8-5&keywords=startech+4+position

Guessing the headset only has a single jack? If so you'll need an adapter like this (4 pole to 2x3 pole) to split it into mic+headphones.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-Position-Headset-Splitter-Adapter-Black/dp/B0058DOWH6

My setup is quite simple

• StarTech MUYHSFMM
  
• StarTech.com 2m 3.5mm 4 Position TRRS Headset Extension Cable
  
• Skullcandy Smokin Buds 2 Mic
  
  The beauty of this setup is that you can use any headphones with inline microphone and it'll work well for the most part, which is nice.
  
  Still cheaper than most gaming headsets and you can have a nicer sound quality :)

I don't know about cost-effective, but as an FYI to anyone looking for high-quality HDTV upscaling... Micomsoft's XRGB Mini Framemeister is generally considered the best upscaling solution for classic consoles -> HDTV: http://www.amazon.com/DP3913515-Framemeister-Micomsoft-Upscaler-Import/dp/B006H39XJS

You can probably find a better price than the link above.

This is untrue. Crt still looks like shit. To truly get maximum visual quality you need an upscaler. It makes old consoles look amazing.

http://www.amazon.com/DP3913515-Framemeister-Micomsoft-Upscaler-Denpashinbunsya/dp/B006H39XJS

The "best" way is likely not the most economical...I gotta say my preferred method would be to tell you to find a Trinitron. If you have to go flat screen HD the best way to do it is to invest into a Micomsoft video upscaler/processor. I used an HD CRT set for years and only just recently switched over to an XRGB mini. Not a cheap way to go... I think many would argue that is the "best" but if you're talking something in the median of cost/performance I can't say I'm familiar with too many options.

They're SilverStone Tek sleeved extensions.

MoBo 24pin


GPU 8pin


GPU 6pin


CPU 8pin (Different than the 8 pin for the graphics card)

You can use one of these controllers and this USB adapter to play N64 games on your nexus. Just make sure you are using an emulator that allows you to map buttons. Works great. I have only tried this with one controller though. I can try it with two if anyone is interested.

This is the one I have, from Amazon. It works really well for situations like this, but it isn't perfect. It has very little rigidity, so I had to resort to twisting the cable around to steer the camera. Also I wouldn't dare use any of the attachments that come with it, because I was skeptical of how securely they attach to the unit. The last thing I wanted was to have the attachment come loose and have it too fall into the oil pan.

The price seems to have gone down since I bought it a year ago. I paid $23.99 for it, It's $16.99 now. Honestly, for that price, it's a really good thing to have. I also used this USB adapter so that it would connect to my phone.

sorry no touch screen controls.

But any bluetooth controller, or a USB controller via an OTG adapter will work. I use a wireless 360 controller.

https://www.amazon.ca/StarTech-com-5-Inch-Micro-Female-Adapter/dp/B00B4GGW5Q

StarTech.com 5in Micro USB to USB OTG Host Adapter - Micro USB Male to USB A Female On-The-GO Host Cable Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B4GGW5Q/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_YVhRub0XJS7T6

and something like this that I got locally:

Black 4-Port High Speed USB 2.0 Hub https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002FFT8Z6/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_OZhRub0CERANR

All you need is an otg cable like this one and you just plug and play http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B4GGW5Q?cache=f236aeeff8b9f95225c9e42091576711&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1408728259&sr=8-5#ref=mp_s_a_1_5

If you have a USB OTG cable you could plug a wired mouse into it. A cursor will appear on screen for you to navigate. Just an idea. (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B4GGW5Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1418670984&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SY200_QL40o)

I use an USB extension cable and set mine out on my TV. Put black electrical tape and it works like a charm

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Extension-Cable-Male-Female/dp/B00NH11PEY

Thanks! Would this work as well? Got that prime shipping time and want to use it:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Extension-Cable-Male-Female/dp/B00NH11PEY/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1543429797&sr=1-5&keywords=usb+extender

Cable management for sure. Maybe a better desk down the line, but cable management is probably the cheapest and most effective way you could improve your battlestation right now.

Especially the mouse; why is that plugged into your case front I/O and not the rear? If the cord's too short, you can get USB extension cords for about $5 in a variety of lengths such as 1 meter or 3 meter.

Like /u/PhoenixAV said, just get a webcam (I have the same one, it's rock solid), you might need a USB extender (https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Extension-Cable-Male-Female/dp/B00NH11PEY/ this works fine, would not go much farther)

For sound, I'd highly recommend getting a simple Jabra Speak 410 https://www.amazon.com/Jabra-Speak-Speakerphone-Retail-Packaging/dp/B007SHJIO2/ It's got decent sound for voice, some mute, volume controls. Between that and the webcam, you can support 4 or 5 people on a call and look professional at the same time.

Good luck!

Something like that seems to do the trick : https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-HDMI-2-0a-Active-Adapter/dp/B01B6ZOMIS

If you look closely at the plug you'll notice there are 4 separate metal contacts (TRRS) instead of 3 (TRS) see this image

That extra contact is for the microphone, smartphones can utilize this as standard, letting you make hands-free calls, but will need an adapter cable to work on separate headphone and mic jacks on a PC (like this)

As for the xbox, depending on which you have there adapters for those too, this for xbox one controllers and a combo of this and this for an xbox 360 controller

As for whether you'd be better off with separate headphone and mic, absolutely, of course you would be, I can't imagine polaroid branded headphones sounding any good at all, yes they are indeed usable for all your intended applications with the adapters I linked but sound quality will be poor, especially mic quality from the tiny thing built into the cable. If that bothers you in any way, then head over to the sticky thread for advice on what to get instead, otherwise those adapters should work fine, even if they come in at just as much, if not more than the headphones cost themselves.

This adapter works: http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-MUYHSFMM-Headset-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B0058DOWH6/

So you have a headset/earbuds with in-line mics, but you have two separate ports for audio in/out on your computer.

You will need a small adapter to split the mic portion and audio out portion into two separate jacks. You will need something like this.

That was my problem too in the beginning. This may get a little long, but I can definitely help you out.

Elgato has page to help with this issue

I use the original Elgato HD and at first I had a headset with a USB and 3.5mm headphone jack, so I had to make a little jerry rig setup with a splitter and an audio Y cable

But if you are willing to spend some money, I highly recommend getting this headset
Its what I am using now because I can talk to my teammates in game, hear my tv audio, and listen to music or donation goals on my PC since it has a multi media source input.

I hope this helps.

This is what you are looking for: http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-MUYHSFMM-Headset-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B0058DOWH6

You'll need a 4 position to dual 3.5mm adapter most likely, if it was marketed as being for multiple consoles and PC then it may have even come with one.

https://smile.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Position-Headset-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B0058DOWH6

Here is one, as for best idk... it's just a cable.

This was meant: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-MUYHSFMM-Headset-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B0058DOWH6/ref=sr_1_4?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1482848559&sr=1-4&keywords=Adapter+3.5mm+to+2+3.5+mm

I built my wife a computer for Christmas and she wanted to use her beats earbuds. I found this:

http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-MUYHSFMM-Headset-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B0058DOWH6

It works flawlessly! Sound comes through and voice input works as well. Obviously the volume controls on the headset don't work, but most keyboards have onboard volume control.

Edit: put up right link :) hope this helps

Something like this

or one of these

yup. http://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-3-5mm-Headset-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B0058DOWH6/ref=pd_sim_ce_2

No problem :D Here is the one i used. You could try your luck and order this exact one but can't guarantee you'll get it working due to mine being a very crappy unit and awfully late. D;

SPLITTER:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058DOWH6/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_z.vfvb1DENTRQ

Something like this.

http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-MUYHSFMM-Headset-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B0058DOWH6/ref=pd_sim_sbs_vg_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0NE6VK8ZFB6EB08BXM5K cheaper nobrand

http://www.amazon.com/TurtleBeach-Stereo-Audio-Splitter-tb450-5200-01-Pc/dp/B0094G86V6/ref=sr_1_42?ie=UTF8&qid=1426885159&sr=8-42&keywords=turtle+beach+splitter+pc turtle beach variant....


that work for yah? probably not......so heres more links that look exactly like yours

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=pc+qd+cable&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xpc+qd+cable+astro+a40.TRS1&_nkw=pc+qd+cable+astro+a40&ghostText=&_sacat=0

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Astro-A40-Inline-Console-QD-Mute-Cable-2-0M-4-5-Poles-2013-/191528180611?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c97f81b83


http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Astro-Gaming-A40-Inline-Console-Mute-QD-cable-2013-or-later-edition-New-/321609915631?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ae171dcef buy it now for 24 bucks.....

its ebay so always more expensive for old namebrand...sorry bud

I see. Well, I haven't found an inline volume control for TRRS jacks. If you are willing to through the hassle the way to do it would be ditching the usb card that came with your headphones and use a splitter so you can plug them straight to your computer, and the using an inline voulme control with the audio plug for that purpose.

PC to extension cord

Extension cord to headset

My first recommendation would be to get a desktop microphone instead. Then you're not tied to one listening experience at your computer when you need to chat with somebody. If that's not an option, you could take the unnecessarily complicated route that I took and get one of these to use any pair of IEMs with an in-line microphone. Personally, I use my Shure SE215s with the UE900 replacement cable at the computer and my LG Tone+s at work where there's a risk of snags/damage.

I'm guessing your splitter or motherboard isn't working then. You can test your motherboard by plugging in a different microphone. The splitter needs to be arranged in CTIA in order to split correctly. Here's the splitter I use http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058DOWH6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Kid you not I was just reading the above forum post 5 minutes ago. I just finished buying the wires so here are links to the wires needed.

[CTIA Y-Cable] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D6NPH88/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A6W0O8DQ2720N)

[Headset Splitter] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058DOWH6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AHV9ORYOUKPWW)

[Stereo Y-Cable] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001BB4GUC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER)

[RCA Stereo Audio Cable] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0032JAG4G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AEKEXTXL2B213)

I also purchased a replacement headset wire, if you are interested in this as well here is the [link] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FJEGXLW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1SHTSJSJQA89P)

This should do it

The reason the reviews aren't very reassuring is because Android and Apple style plugs are wired differently. You have an Apple style headphone, and the above splitter has a review with a good review from someone using EarPods.

Stricly console you say? Imgur

In all honesty though I don't know if the amps always supported connection by PC (I have the Pro). They work fine with my rig on Windows 8.1. The amp even uses a driver that boosts the audio a little, creating virtual channels to widen the available tones and enhancing the original stereo signal.

BUT WAIT, THERE'S MORE! You can even get a PC adapter as a back-up, in case the amp fails (which mine did, but only because it decided to leap to its death as I got up from the chair, forgetting I had the A40's on. Tragic, I know.) It was pretty cheap too, only a couple bucks on [Amazon] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058DOWH6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1): Imgur

They're comfy around the padding, but my over-sized noggin came complete with a pair of dumbo ears. They can get annoying after having to adjust them too many times.

Edit: words.

Are you using one of these?

Remember on the new controller adapter, there are 4 connection areas on the pin. Two for chat and two sound.

Kontext nach kurzer Suche.

>$360

Ich verzichte.

It's complicated. Most game consoles render the video in RGB and then down-convert it to something consumer TVs could display like composite or S-video. The NES was unusual in that it rendered everything natively in composite. You can get RGB out of an NES but you have to mod in some additional hardware between the NES and it's picture processing unit. One such solution is Tim Worthington's NES RGB Board.

But there's another problem. Even if you are able to get the NES outputting pristine crystal-clear RGB video it's still only going to output at 240p. Even if your HDTV can display a 240p signal (most can't) it will likely do a terrible job upscaling it all the way to 1080p. That's what expensive equipment like the XRGB Mini does.

I will be very interested to see how they handle both the quality of the video output and the problem of how to display such a low-def signal on modern TVs.

The Framemeister is supposed to be the "Cadillac" of upscalers for older game systems. I'm not sure that it has all the inputs you need but it should take care of most of them.

It's really easy to use tenso. I had typed up a whole thing but accidentally closed it so I'll type again.

1. Sign up at www.tenso.com/en/
   
   
2. Sign up at amazon.co.jp
   
   
3. Place framemeister in your cart http://www.amazon.co.jp/gp/product/B006H39XJS/ref=s9_simh_gw_p147_d0_i1?pf_rd_m=AN1VRQENFRJN5&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=1B94PQNMTCNBBFF44AJ4&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=463376756&pf_rd_i=489986
   
   Optional step: if you want to hook up component cables you will need something like this http://www.amazon.co.jp/%E3%82%B5%E3%83%B3%E3%83%AF%E3%82%B5%E3%83%97%E3%83%A9%E3%82%A4-KM-V17-10-SANWA-SUPPLY-D%E7%AB%AF%E5%AD%90%E3%82%B3%E3%83%B3%E3%83%9D%E3%83%BC%E3%83%8D%E3%83%B3%E3%83%88%E3%83%93%E3%83%87%E3%82%AA%E3%82%B1%E3%83%BC%E3%83%96%E3%83%AB/dp/B00008B9GF
   
   Once in the checkout process use the guide here to enter in your tenso address https://www.tenso.com/en/guide/buy/address.html
   
   Once it arrives at tenso they will inspect it and then send an invoice for shipping to you. Pay it, and the xrgb mini will arrive in a few days!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006H39XJS

This is the Framemeister. It will upscale your standard definition signal and optimize it to connect through HDMI. It also can add scan lines that CRT TVs had. It's expensive, but I've heard and seen great things about it. I don't know of anything else that does what you're looking for other than using an emulator that can upscale the rom.

You could use Cable Extensions if you don't already want to swap your PSU, Silverstone Cable Extensions. Relatively cheap compared to modular PSU then custom cables

Here's an [Amazon.Smile link] to the exact set i bought. There are several other brands for varying prices, but most of them are relatively similar.

These are just extensions, plug from the end of the stock PSU cable into the appropriate component.
Check out [CableMod] for absolutely beautiful sleeved cables that replace the stock PSU cables completely, but their prices reflect their quality.

got mine on amazon. just make sure you buy the right ones, for example I got the wrong 8 pin for my CPU.. You needed the 12V for the CPU but I got the PCIE one by mistake...

Actually it didn't, that was an amazon special.

Here you go: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B46XJQ6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here's the GPU one as well, in case you were interested: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B46XJ2K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here is an example of one, they come in a bunch of different colors and some companies sell the 24 pin, 8 pin, then the GPU ones all in one kit.


Click here

I got an OTG Cable and I plug my Xbox 360 controller into it. Works like a charm and I haven't had to do any custom button mapping yet.

I don't think you will find what you are looking for. The Cisco console cable has an adapter built into the cable. You cannot just connect the wires from USB directly to an Ethernet cable and have it work. You will have to have an Ethernet adapter. Why not just take something like this and plug an ethernet cable into it and then put heat shrink tubing over the connector. I think that is the closest thing you will find. If you are looking to extend your USB connection over cat5 you will require an adapter for that as well. You could use this and a USB OTG adapter.

If you could give more information on your "specific reasons" that you don't want to use adapters maybe it would help with suggestions that would meet your needs.

I used this:
http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00B4GGW5Q?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

With this:
http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B007MLHREM/ref=pe_386430_30332290_TE_dp_1

And that seems to work great.

I've got a Logitech wireless keyboard/mouse with one of their universal dongles in one of the powered ports, a Logitech F710 wireless dongle in the other powered port, and then the Ethernet adapter plugged in the other. (note, I'm not actually using the ethernet adapter right now, since I found I didn't actually need it, but it works). I've also plugged in a wired XBox 360 controller in and that worked too.

You need something like this.

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-5in-Micro-Host-Adapter/dp/B00B4GGW5Q/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_107_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=9B8QJFN2FTB5GF4Q134H

Your phone should output audio via usb and into your dac. I just got one and it works well on both devices I've tried. You'll need to find one with the correct plug type for your phone, the one I linked to is micro usb.

That won't work.

You need to buy (this), provided that your phone has software support. Which phone is it?

You're better off just getting a controller phone clip and a micro USB adapter, this is what I use:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ZWWMD56/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B4GGW5Q/

Works wonders with my ps4 controller on my phone

I got this one 6 months ago and it hasn't had any issues yet. Fits the tablet well too.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B4GGW5Q?cache=cd1f5a2985b1a1d8741a558ee0dfcb75&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1408036308&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

Here's the one I got. I'd recommend that everyone with an Android phone that's a power user get one.

I bought this one.

Note that there are over 600 +ive reviews and over 100 -ive ones. I can't attest to its quality after a few uses, but I can assure you it fits the Note 4. Your call.

It's inexpensive and comes with Amazon Prime shipping. There are a bunch of these on Amazon even if you decided to look at another one. Just search for OTG cables.

There's USB controllers that are the style of generic, N64, NES, SNES, Xbox, PS, or whatever else you want. You can use them via a cheap micro USB to USB adapter. I use the N64 and generic ones myself.

Radio Shack should have them, yes. If not, you can grab one here: http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-MUYHSMFFADW-Position-Headset-Splitter/dp/B00CPEZ4J6

I use this one which works fine:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Position-Headset-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B00CPEZ4J6/

Don't see any reason why the one you posted wouldn't work.

Any one that has separate 3.5 mm audio and mic jacks. Then you would use a connector like this with the xb1 chat adapter.

http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-MUYHSMFFADW-Position-Headset-Splitter/dp/B00CPEZ4J6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415388968&sr=8-1&keywords=3.5+mm+headset+splitter

you need something like this: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Position-Headset-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B00CPEZ4J6

I've found this to be the best option for those that already have good headphones (obviously won't work if you prefer in-ear).

http://www.modmic.com/ (the ones with the mute switch)
+
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Position-Headset-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B00CPEZ4J6

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CPEZ4J6/ref=s9_top_hm_awbw_b2TRH6R_g23_i3?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-11&pf_rd_r=013CCXYYMMVA4P2NX8NA&pf_rd_t=30901&pf_rd_p=073bf509-6105-5831-9ff6-e9d4e429c0e6&pf_rd_i=2267280011

Mic:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Auvio-Cable-w-boom-mic-converts-premium-headphones-into-multimedia-headset-/321647161671?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ae3aa3147

Adapter:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CPEZ4J6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you have Studios, you'll need this as well:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OEQE6VU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just figured this out last week, works great.

I hope I get shot down for this but I absolutely hate the combined sensors. It's mostly a matter of principle in using magnets vs accelerometers to me but I've had rougher rides outside and every now and then I found myself having to readjust the sensor to get closer to the revolving magnet on the spoke.

I like the idea of Bluetooth/Ant+ but probably won't make that switch until Garmin does this or Wahoo ups the reliability to their accelerometer based offerings. I ended up with the Garmin speed and cadence sensors mainly because how rugged they looked and they have yet to let down. Downside to Ant+, that I have yet to experience yet, is having to use a dongle for your computer.

With regards to the cadence sensor (Garmin), the 3 slit design makes for a ridiculously good hold. The combined sensor relies on you removing your pedals which is a pain in the ace if you ever realize you made a mistake purchasing one.

The speed sensor is beautiful in that it wraps around the hub and I've been on a set and forget mindset ever since purchasing it.

If you're up for a potential hassle then I'd go for the Wahoo speed and cadence sensors. That seems like a high risk high reward in being able to gain Bluetooth functionality and drop a dongle. I on the other hand don't want to mess with what works and got the Garmin pair of sensors and that seems to work well for me. I'm too deep in the Garmin game at this point to turn back but I'm really hoping Wahoo ups their game so Garmin will finally develop some Bluetooth/ant+ sensors to ween people off the inevitable Ant+ downfall (probably in 3 yrs).

DO IT(playing it safe):
Garmin Bike Speed Sensor and Cadence Sensor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JM6DKUA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_b8BfAbMW4D35X
+
Garmin USB ANT Stick for Garmin Fitness Devices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CM381SQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Q9BfAbBPSWVDZ
+(Recommend)
AmazonBasics USB 2.0 Extension Cable - A-Male to A-Female - 9.8 Feet (3 Meters) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH11PEY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_y-BfAbB526SE8

Risky:
Wahoo RPM Speed and Cadence sensor for iPhone, Android and Bike Computers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E0YRQIA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_68BfAb3RQD1J8

Going Garmin obviously requires more stuff but I'd say it's worth it. Make sure to measure the wheel circumference or try googling it so your training is accurate.

Lots of people are suggesting your charger. Might I recommend a USB extension cord to give you extra length when your phone or other devices are on the charger?

The USB cable used for the Roku Streaming Stick+ is actually a special one with a built in Wi-Fi antenna, so you actually need a USB-A extender to connect the end of the special cable to the TV. https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Extension-Cable-Male-Female/dp/B00NH11PEY/

Or if you don't have the Streaming Stick+, meaning that the cable does not have a noticable black block in the middle of the cable (where the antenna stuff is), this should be able to replace the cable. https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Male-Micro-Cable-Black/dp/B07232M876/

Ah thats unfortunate. I hate to say this but you could buy an extension for the cable, or use an extension cord from the outlet

AmazonBasics USB 2.0 Extension Cable - A-Male to A-Female Adapter Cord - 9.8 Feet (3 Meters) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH11PEY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_e0d7Cb5ZA5XPA

Fortunately they are cheap

I mean this more for folks who already have a webcam setup they were using when the video features were working on these sites. I know that the league itself is not predicated on webcam usage, so my focus is on folks who have lost that functionality. That said, you can probably get a cheap usb extension cable on Amazon.

I have some recommendations and suggestions. I know there's a lot of info, but you should know this if you want to get more value for your money. I ran out of space before I could cover everything, so just ask me if you have questions.

Headphones

---

The first thing you should determine is whether you need sound isolation or not.

• Open-back: the earcups have perforations/openings that allow sound to freely pass through. The benefits to this is generally a larger soundstage and better imaging. This can also help if your ears tend to sweat.
  
  
• Closed-back: the earcups have solid shells that isolate sound from passing through to various extent.
  
   
  
  Next, you should figure out which sound signature you prefer.
  
  
• Balanced/flat/neutral: doesn't over- or under-emphasize the bass or treble.
  
• Warm: emphasizes the bass.
  
• Dark: recesses the treble. A headphone can be warm and dark.
  
• Bright: emphasizes the treble.
  
• U-shape: emphasizes the bass and treble a little.
  
• V-shape: emphasizes the bass and treble more than U-shaped.
  
• Mid-forward: the mids are louder than the bass and treble. The mids may be emphasized or the bass and treble may be recessed.
  
  Sub-bass is how deep the bass goes and is where rumble comes from.
  
  Mid-bass is where impact/slam comes from.
  
  Generally, for competitive shooters, as little bass as possible is favorable because bass overpowers or overshadows footsteps and other sound cues.
  
   
  
  Lastly, you should know what sound characteristics constitute positional audio and pertain to immersion.
  
  
• Soundstage: is produced by the headphone, not the game. It's perceived space and environment of sound. It's the size of the sound field around you. A small soundstage makes the environment around you sound confined or boxed in. With a large soundstage, the environment sounds much more spatial, open and natural. You can't comprehend it without experiencing it.
  
  
• Imaging: is inherent to the audio content. It's how accurately the locations of sounds/objects are reproduced.
  
  
• Separation: is how you discern individual sounds from a range of overlapping sounds. This is only important in competitive shooters.
  
   
  
  Personal headphone recommendations:
  
  
• Audio-Technica ATH-AD700X (open-back):
  
  has recessed sub-bass and emphasized treble. Has clean bass and a little harsh treble. Has a huge soundstage, excellent imaging, separation and clarity, and great detail retrieval.
  
  
• Beyerdynamic DT990 (600 ohms) (open-back):
  
  has recessed sub-bass, emphasized mid-bass, and very emphasized treble. Has clean bass and a little splashy or overly sparkly treble. Has a huge soundstage and excellent imaging, separation, clarity and detail retrieval.
  
  
• Philips Fidelio X2 (open-back):
  
  has emphasized sub-bass, mid-bass and treble. Has clean bass and smooth treble. The soundstage is very wide, like the others I've mentioned, but it lacks some depth. It's probably only noticeable if you play competitively or compare it side-by-side with headphones that are deeper. This affects the imaging from front to back. The imaging from left to right is excellent. Separation and clarity are excellent. Detail retrieval is great, but bass overpowers sound cues a lot.
  
  
• Sennheiser HD598 (open-back):
  
  is mid-forward and has recessed sub-bass. Has clean bass, smooth treble, and excellent clarity. I haven't used it much, so my impressions are that it has a large soundstage and good imaging, separation and detail retrieval.
  
  

  
  

  
  I also compare to AKG K52, AKG Q701, Audeze LCD-2 Classic, HiFiMan HE400i (the revision), HiFiMan HE-500, HyperX Cloud, Monoprice Monolith M1060, Philips SHP9500, Sennheiser HD700, Sennheiser HD800, Superlux HD662 EVO, Superlux HD668B, Superlux HD669, Superlux HD681 EVO, Tritton Pro+ and Turtle Beach Ear Force XP Seven.
  
  My evaluations are based on games, not music. I test headphones mostly in BF:BC2, BF3, BF4 and R6S.
  
   
  
  Alternatives:
  
  Open-back
  
  

• AKG K612 Pro
  
• AKG K701
  
• AKG K702
  
• Audio-Technica ATH-AD900x
  
• Beyerdynamic DT880
  
• Sennheiser Game One (headset)
  
• Sennheiser HD558/HD579
  
• Sennheiser HD599
  
  Closed-back
  
  
• AKG K550
  
• Audio Technica ATH-MSR7
  
• Beyerdynamic Custom One Pro Plus
  
• Beyerdynamic DT770
  
• Sennheiser Game Zero (headset)
  
• V-MODA Crossfade M-100
  
   
  
  

  Microphones
  

  
  ---
  
  

  
  

  
  Attachable to headphones
  
  

• Antlion ModMic
  
• Massdrop Minimic
  
• V-MODA BoomPro
  
  Alternatives
  
  
• Audio-Technica AT2020USB
  
• Blue Snowball
  
• Blue Yeti
  
• Neewer Clip on Mini Lapel Microphone
  
• Samson Go
  
• Sony ECMCS3
  
• Zalman ZM-Mic1
  
   
  
  

  Setup
  

  
  ---
  
  

  
  

  
  Antlion ModMic and Massdrop Minimic are compatible with all headphones.
  
  V-MODA BoomPro is compatible with Philips Fidelio X2 and V-MODA Crossfade M-100 of the aforementioned headphones.
  
   
  
  You can connect the headphone and mic to the PS4 by using an audio USB adapter. The one I linked has separate jacks for the headphone and mic, so in order to use it with V-MODA BoomPro, you need a Y-splitter, which is included with the mic. The other 3.5mm mics have an own cable, so there's no need for a Y-splitter.
  
  USB mics, like AT2020USB, Snowball and Yeti, connect directly to the PS4.
  
  If the cables aren't long enough, then just use an aux extension cable or a USB extension cable.
  
   
  
  The PS4 isn't capable of powering all headphones sufficiently, so you may need a sound card or a headphone amplifier and a DAC (digital-to-analog converter). A Sound card has an amp and a DAC built in and sacrifice sound quality for features. You need a DAC because USB and optical are digital signals and PS4 has no analog outputs. There's a common problem with reversed left and right channels when using USB DACs, so I'll only list DACs with optical. I'll only list USB sound cards that officially support PS4.
  
  Power isn't just impedance dependent, it's also sensitivity dependent, which many new to this hobby overlook. If a headphone has a low impedance rating and a high sensitivity rating, it will be very easy to drive. If a headphone has a high impedance rating and a high sensitivity rating, it should be easy to drive. If a headphone has a high impedance rating and a low sensitivity rating, it will be hard to drive. If a headphone has a low impedance rating and a low sensitivity rating, it will be very hard to drive.
  
  There's no consensus on where 'high' impedance starts at. I've read/heard anywhere from 50 ohms to 300 ohms. For sensitivity, there are two different measurements used for this: SPL/mW and SPL/V. 100 dB SPL/mW and 110 SPL/V are considered high.
  
  If you don't want to ever deal with this, then I recommend just getting a very powerful sound card or amp, e.g. Creative Sound BlasterX G5 or Schiit Magni 3.
  
  Audio-Technica ATH-AD700X, Philips Fidelio X2 and Sennheiser HD598 are very loud for me out of the controller or by using an audio USB adapter. The 600-ohm version of Beyerdynamic DT990 is too quiet.
  
  

  
  

  
  Mics generally don't work with amps, so you'll have to connect it to an audio USB adapter, or to the controller with a TRRS Y-splitter. You recognize them by the three black rings on their connector. You need to use the included Y-splitter with V-MODA BoomPro.
  
  With a sound card, you can use both the headphone and mic with it. You need a TRRS Y-splitter if the mic has a separate cable.
  
  To connect a separate amp to a DAC, you need RCA cables.
  
  

  
  

  
  Sound cards:
  
  

• Astro MixAmp Pro TR
  
• Creative Sound BlasterX G1
  
• Creative Sound BlasterX G5
  
• Turtle Beach Elite Pro TAC
  
  

  
  

  
  Amps and DACs:
  
  

• Audioengine D1 (both)
  
• FiiO D3 (DAC)
  
• FX Audio DAC-X6 (both)
  
• Mayflower ARC (both)
  
• Micca OriGen G2 (both)
  
• Schiit Magni 3 (amp)
  
• Schiit Modi 2 Uber (DAC)
  
• SMSL SD793-II (both)
  
• Topping A30 (amp)
  
• D30 (DAC)

it may just be easier to use an adapter than replacing the whole pcb as it looks rather complicated maybe get one of these https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-TOOGOO-adapter-converter-Controller-Compatible/dp/B00UMXGMYS/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=E3R1FSF6T00E3B6KJHYB
and one of these
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH11PEY/ref=twister_B00SIT9PRO?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I just built one of these for Christmas. It was simple enough to operate that I was able to gift it to my non-tech savvy sister who was able to take it home and get it running on her own.

I followed this guide to get it set up, which also lists all the emulators you can run on it: http://lifehacker.com/how-to-turn-your-raspberry-pi-into-a-retro-game-console-498561192

It cost a lot more than the $35 mentioned in the guide though. I also purchased the official case, 2 USB SNES controllers, 2 10-foot USB extension cables so they can reach the couch, and a USB power cord with a switch. The Raspberry Pi doesn't actually come with a power button, so once you shut it down, there's no way to turn it back on without unplugging it and plugging it back in, which was pretty lame. This switch made it more convenient. I ordered an USB AC adapter to go with it that was rated as recommended by the Raspberry Pi site, but it ended up not being powerful enough to run some SNES games. I ended up using the adapter that came with my Motorola Droid Turbo instead, which fixed the issues.

No, you won't be able to use your motherboard ports.

You will need to purchase a converter or a different monitor. Perhaps something like this?

You should be able to use a cheap adapter like this one https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rankie-Plated-DisplayPort-Female-Adapter/dp/B00Z08TZNU/

> Input Connector 15-pin D-Sub

Yes that is a VGA connector. You will need a converter like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Rankie-DisplayPort-Adapter-Plated-Converter/dp/B00Z08TZNU/

I think I understand.


Ill start with the first PC.


First PC -> Second Main monitor by DVI-D

First -> Second Small monitor by DVI-I through DVI-VGA adapter




Second PC -> First Main monitor by HDMI

Second PC -> First Small monitor by DP1.4 to VGA adapter (EG HERE)

Lemme know if you need clarification :)

See new reply down below

• PC 1, main, how connected?
  
• PC 1, secondary, VGA cable to DVI-I to VGA adapter
  
• PC 2, main, DVI
  
• PC2, secondary, you can use DisplayPort to VGA adapter + VGA cable

So somethink like this
will be enough?

You're trying to convert a digital signal (display port) to an analogue signal (VGA) so you'll need an active adapter to convert the signal ( link )

Ideally you should be using display port or HDMI with no adapters, you'll also limit your max resolution going from display port to VGA.

Plug the second monitor into the GTX 1070 using an adapter, if necessary.

The GTX 1070 should have multiple outputs. What it has depends on the manufacturer make/model.

If it has VGA out: Use a VGA cable.

If it has DVI-D out:

https://www.amazon.com/Active-DVI-D-Adapter-Benfei-Female/dp/B07D3XZ9SD/ref=sr_1_3

If it has HDMI out:

https://www.amazon.com/Gold-Plated-Converter-Power-Free-Raspberry-Projector/dp/B0757FLCXV/ref=sr_1_4

If it only has DP out:

https://www.amazon.com/Rankie-DisplayPort-Adapter-Plated-Converter/dp/B00Z08TZNU/ref=sr_1_3

These 3 are all unidirectional adapters (meaning they work from DP out to VGA in / HDMI to VGA / DVI-D to VGA, not the other way around) . They should support up to1920x1080@60Hz, and all will require a VGA cable.

Displayport to VGA is a thing. Often use them to connect a modern PC to older monitors/projectors, e.g. this

So an adapter like this:

https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-HDMI-2-0a-Active-Adapter/dp/B01B6ZOMIS

Isn't needed?

Both of those will support 4K at 30Hz.

I forgot, but you could use this one:

https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-HDMI-2-0a-Active-Adapter/dp/B01B6ZOMIS/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1495739033&sr=1-2&keywords=displayport+to+hdmi+2.0

eg: https://www.amazon.com/UPTab-DisplayPort-Adapter-displays-4096x2160/dp/B01B6ZOMIS

What about these things?

https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-HDMI-2-0a-Active-Adapter/dp/B01B6ZOMIS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1478729829&sr=8-3&keywords=displayport+hdmi+2.0

Hey, I have that exact gpu and I use this for my 4k display, and it works great. You have a kickass gpu should you want to explore keeping it!

I'm thinking the adapter is faulty. Try contacting the seller. About 10% of reviews complain that it's stuck on 30hz. 10% failure rate on electronics is fairly common.

The hdmi port on your computer is likely 1.4. If you have a display port, use that with a display port to hdmi 2.0 adapter.

I had the same issue. My 380x has 1 4 hdmi. Which can only do 4k @ 30 hz. But the display port can do 4k @ 60 hz.

So to make it work i got:

Cable

And

Adapter

Edit: also make sure the tv is set to allow 4k@60 on its ports. My X800D sony has an option called "enhanced mode", that i have to set for 60 hz at 4K on the hdmi ports.

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMR-206-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B000068O33

Short answer, yes they will be worth the trouble. It takes all of 30 seconds to fix a pair of old wires.

What you need to look at is the actual speakers.

• You want to see if the Ohms (Ω) match the amp thats driving it.
  
• You want to make sure there are no rips in the speaker cones.
  
• If you have a small amp, you could test them before hand. Or if you have a digital multimeter, test the resistance (see ohms above) and make sure youre getting a number close to the rating printed on the magnet or near the terminals. This will let you know the speakers out of the back of the speaker enclosure are connected all the way through.
  
  I've garbage picked my fair share of speakers. you would be surprised what people think is trash. My college house was filled with throwaway speakers and they sounded great.
  
  EDIT: you cannot wire speakers directly to a headphone jack. you need to put an amplifier between the speakers and the audio source. This is a DIY project favorite: http://www.amazon.com/Lepai-TRIPATH-TA2020-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B003P534SW/ref=pd_sxp_f_i
  
  However, if you're looking at goodwill, i would just try to pick up an old 2-channel audio receiver then order this: http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CMR206-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B000068O33

This

I goofed
you need THIS cable to go from the pc to the speakers then speaker wire to go from the right speaker to the left

Edifier R1700BT - $150
https://www.amazon.com/Edifier-R1700BT-Bluetooth-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B016PATXSI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541303668&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=r1700bt&dpPl=1&dpID=41P41fuVvNL&ref=plSrch

and this cable:
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMR-206-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B000068O33/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1541303773&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dual+rca+to+3.5mm&dpPl=1&dpID=31SZxGep13L&ref=plSrch

Usually to do live streaming like this you'll need to route a cable from one of the outputs on your controller to the Line-in input on your computer's internal soundcard.

You then stream from the line input.

When you use a high quality ASIO professional soundcard it has to have 'exclusive access'. In other words - due to a low level driver when you are using Serato - Serato must have full hardware control over the entire soundcard.

The easiest way to do this is to use your XLR outputs for your speakers then use the RCA output to your computer's soundcard line input.

You probably will need to purchase the proper cable either XLR to 1/8 or RCA to 1/8.

• XLR to mini 1/8 TRS: http://smile.amazon.com/Hosa-CYX-403M-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B000068OEP/
  
• RCA to mini 1/8 TRS: http://smile.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CMR206-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B000068O33/
  
  That means you can't select it as a choice when you are streaming.

You are probably plugging the stereo output from your computer into an input which is expecting mono. That's going to short the left and right channels together, which will cause all sorts of problems as you have figured out.

Get yourself a 1/8" to RCA and use the tape input instead.

this: http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CMR206-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B000068O33

A USB DAC and soundcard are much the same thing.

Basically, chip design has progressed to the point where you can get a simple USB DAC on a chip. It will come with a datasheet showing you which pins to connect to USB pins, power, and output. This sort of chip is at the heart of USB soundcards, pro audio interfaces and many other computer audio devices.

My USB DAC is cheap, and it has been built for compactness. Others take a lot of care to isolate the digital decoding part from the analog audio output part.

On the other side of things, we have Audio DACs. These devices are present in every CD player, but it was the fashion at the height of the CD era to have an outboard DAC stage. This would take the raw digital signal from the CD and turn it back into line level analog audio. Rather than plug connect the receiver via the red and white analog RCA inputs, you could connect your CD player via a digital link. This was either a fiber optic cable, or a single RCA link, usually color coded yellow or black.

Some home theatre receivers could handle the decoding of raw digital audio from CDs or DVDs, so may have an optical/RCA digital input. If your amp had such an input, you can connect your Macbook to your receiver via a single fiber optic cable, one end of which plugs into your regular headphone jack (you can purchase these cables readily online). Or you can use this optical cable to connect your Mac to a DAC/Soundcard, and as optical fibers carry no electrical current, the nasty hum can't get into your analog signal chain.

If your amp has a RCA digital input, but no fiber optic input, you need a little decoder box that converts the optical signal to a digital signal travelling in copper wire. Toslink is optical. Spdif is digital over copper.

With the rise of computer audio, the line between USB soundcard and DAC have been blurred. If you look at the back panel of the DAC Magic you will see that it has a USB input, two pairs of digital inputs (useful for a CD player or the optical a out of a computer - Note the fiber and RCA links) a further digital signal out, then analog outputs.

The noise you describe is a ground loop. Old timers may confuse you and claim that ground loops have a distinctive 60hz hum, but computer ground loops are a slightly different problem. It will sound like a faint high voltage discharge, and occasionally squeal like an out of tune radio. It may be more pronounced when you move windows around on screen, or when you scroll a web page. It can be more apparent in more sensitive gear, but it can also pop up in cheaper speakers.

tldr; if your amp has a true digital input, go optical. If not, then get the Turtle beach USB soundcard to begin with.

Hope you are still concious!

Yea you can likely use one of these to output toslink from your 3.5mm jack:

http://www.amazon.com/Recoton-Fiber-Optic-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B0002MQGRM

OP here, I have an ASrock board, I fixed my issue with a driver (re?) install.

Also, I thought the ASUS boards had optical via a 3.5mm combo jack and an adapter like this

You want DVI to HDMI, you can get an adapter or just a straight DVI/HDMI cable.

For audio the audio jacks are both combined digital optical and phono. For digital audio you need a Toslink to 3.5mm adapter or cable (and obviously a digital optical input on your sound system). If you have a digital optical cable around just get an adapter for super cheap. If you don't have digital audio you can just get a headphone to RCA adapter or cable for stereo.

A more optimized distribution for Kodi than just running it on Mac OS might be nice, but I don't think it would be critical, it's not horrifically slow, but you'll have to test and see. Easiest thing to do since you got it for free is just make a new user (so you've got a good clean user account without years of someone else crap in the way) and try running Kodi from there, if it's good then you can clear out the old account or whatever at your leisure. If it's not up to snuff then consider installing openelec or something along those lines.

Sure. The audio can be a little tricky but here is what I have. The easiest thing would be if your home theater system or tv accepted optical inputs so that you could use the xbox's built in optical and connect if directly to your tv or home theater system without doing any conversions. If that does not work you have to convert the optical to a 3.5mm connection or a rca audio connection (these are the red and white components next to your dvi connection) . The way to do that is by way of adapter or cords. Like others have stated adapters might give you latency problems. So a cord might prove the better way to go. Ultimately for your connection it looks like you will have to go from optical to 3.5mm to RCA audio. Conversely the newer controllers have a 3.5mm connection built into it. So you would just have to go from 3.5mm to RCA audio.

I'll try to find links but hopefully this gives you a starting point.

Edit

Start with this or {this + this} then convert that signal to RCA with this

-In theory this should work

I could be wrong, but I believe all Macs do have an optical audio out, its just a smaller plug than that square thing. Perhaps you just need an adapter? Not sure if that's a thing that can even be done. I've never used optical audio on my Macs.

Edit: To be clear, the optical out is the same plug as the regular audio out.

This is the adapter: http://www.amazon.com/Recoton-Fiber-Optic-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B0002MQGRM/ref=pd_bxgy_pc_img_y

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002MQGRM?pc_redir=1404305886&robot_redir=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001TH7GSW?pc_redir=1404305795&robot_redir=1

Here ya go, it'll cost you a whole 2 bucks.

This looks right if you want to do what he does in the video. You would need a 3.5mm male to male if you did it this way.

You can skip that part and get stereo femal to 3.5mm male like this cable instead. So get that, and get the VGA to DVID. adapter.

You also need the the actual xbox to VGA cable, obviously.

I have the same setup. What I did was use the little adapter that changes the red/white to 3.5mm headphones jack and plug it in to either the line in port on my computer, which in turn shares the speakers between computer and xbox. You could also get one of these and just join the speaker cable with the adapter.

Y splitter or Y adapter: 3.5mm Stereo Male To 2X RCA Female Adapter

http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-40645-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B000J1H4VI/ref=sr_1_13?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1370786488&sr=1-13&keywords=y+adapter+2+male+1+female+headphone

If 3.5mm inputs instead of RCA:

http://www.amazon.com/EarlyBirdSavings-Female-Headphones-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B008XYDV4C/ref=sr_1_18?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1370786488&sr=1-18&keywords=y+adapter+2+male+1+female+headphone

i didn’t vet these particular items, but the concept should work for your application.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YC7U0NE/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HYUQVVA/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000J1H4VI/

Not sure if you need male or female on the RCA, but here's both:

Male

Female

One of those should do the trick. Plenty of other options here if you want to shop around or decide you want to connect it directly to the speakers instead of going through your PC.

Ignore all the people being dicks; everyone is a noob at something and I'm sure they'd never admit what it is for them. Feel free to hit me up if you have any questions.

It's just a printing thing on the back. The 3.5mm port works as a strange hybrid COAX digital (SPDIF) INPUT on one channel, with ANALOG (full range) mono subwoofer OUTPUT on the other channel when you plug a standard 3.5mm stereo male (TRS) to dual RCA (Y adapter) into it, regardless of the indicated printing.

EXAMPLE:

• https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-40645-Adapter-Compliant/dp/B000J1H4VI
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-Stereo-Female-Adapter-Y-Cable/dp/B0018MI5F6
  
  
  Alternatively, like a Mac's old 3.5mm headphone jack or a Chromecast Audio's output - That port can ALSO function as a optical SPDIF (Mini TOSLINK) connection - When a mini TOSLINK cable is inserted, it becomes another INPUT.
  
  EXAMPLE:
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Toslink-Mini-Feet/dp/B00JLTURKE
  
  This would give you a second optical input, but render the subwoofer output unuseable.
  
  Also, the DSP is complete shit. Stay away from the silly preset EQ modes!
  
  ---------------
  
  EDITED - don't gamble on the earlier version having a sub out - I had read they're all the same except for the printing, some people say otherwise.

You need an adapter. RCA to 3.5mm
https://www.amazon.ca/Cables-Go-40645-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B000J1H4VI/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1499982730&sr=1-1&keywords=C2G+%2F+Cables+To+Go+40645

1. This Sumbich.
   
   
2. I'd finally be able to take full advantage of my cheap-as-balls sound system.
   
   
3. Teal. And anyone who says otherwise is a dirty liar.
   
   Have you seen that color? Majestic as fuck.

I use a similar setup, HDMI to monitor... but then I run the red&white cables from the AV cable (that came with the ps3) into something like this C2G / Cables to Go 40645 3.5mm Stereo Male To 2X RCA Female Adapter, and then into my line-in. Works just fine for me.

I use an extender from Amazon AmazonBasics USB 2.0 A-Male to A-Female Extension Cable (9.8 Feet/3.0 Meters) by AmazonBasics http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001TH7GUU/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_MJ0itb05EF6MA

Great, I have that mouse coming in the mail today. I love the company and the product, they just have a few things that consistently don't sit well with me.

This type of usb extension is what I meant. With the more slack I can take notice of how twisted its getting before it gets bad enough to get a kink.

3 metre cable for $6.

Power supply for about $12
http://www.buy.com/pr/product.aspx?sku=212635986&sellerid=24218560

R/F adapter $4

http://www.amazon.com/RCA-Coax-Cable-Video-Adapter/dp/B0028MXOF6

plug that into the back of the system, them use a regular coax cable to the tv. Radio Shack also carries it, 278-290 is the part number. You will have to open the case to access the R/F port.

It's a simple repair job. He'res a video that explains how easy it is:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w_CoVw-P0xc

This should do it: http://www.amazon.com/Atari-2600-Coaxial-Plug-Female-Adapter/dp/B0028MXOF6

Hi, my Atari 2600 is not modded in any way and I have done this and I use a VCR and an RF Adapter

Open up the Atari and remove the cable, now Take a composite yellow wire and plug in one end....

and take the other end of the cable and plug it into the back of the RF adapter..now screw the RF adapter into the back of the vcr

Turn on the vcr and set it to channel 3

Now take a set of composite cables and run them from the vcr out to the AV to HDMI adapter

congrats atari in hd

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0028MXOF6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_u4P-Ab7PCV57Z

Get one of these. It's a billion times easier than the game box switch.

http://en.community.dell.com/support-forums/laptop/f/3519/t/19666591

>For those still wondering how it works... I have an Alienware 17 R2 with the Intel Graphics 4600 as well; and it runs at 144hz. I tried every single cable before getting to the right one; it only works using the mini displayport to displayport cable. After that you just need to change the Windows Display options from 60hz to 144hz.

>link to the cable I use:

>http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-32AWG-Mini-DisplayPort-Cable/dp/B0034X6SCY?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

Yup, it does! From Apple Support (https://support.apple.com/kb/sp649?locale=en_US)

>Dual display and video mirroring: Simultaneously supports full native resolution on the built-in display and up to 2560 by 1600 pixels on an external display, both at millions of colors

I'd recommend using a mini-DP to DP cable since it can support higher resolutions and refresh rates (up to 4K a@ 60Hz) than HDMI. We use this Monoprice cable that's about $6 for testing our high resolution (1440p or higher) monitors.

Would this not work? http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-32AWG-Mini-DisplayPort-Cable/dp/B0034X6SCY

The specific 7870 has two mini displayports, which are what the name implies: smaller versions of displayport. A mini displayport to displayport cable would work just fine with your setup. Link to example cable: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-32AWG-Mini-DisplayPort-Cable/dp/B0034X6SCY

would this work? https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-32AWG-Mini-DisplayPort-Cable/dp/B0034X6SCY

Hi, some misleading info here. Both the SP3 and SP4 docking stations are true docking stations and not "port replicators". Here are the articles I wrote on how to tear them down and inspect the components inside and some other info that may be helpful:

• SP4 dock teardown
  
• SP3 dock teardown
  
• A guide on various docking options including the USB->DVI adapters
  
• Active vs passive adapters
  
  There is nothing wrong with USB->DVI adapters based on DisplayLink chipsets. They work great in Windows 10 with the WDDM v2.0 stack and have a negligible CPU performance penalty. But they may not help here. If you've already tested that the miniDP connection works when connecting directly to the tablet and it still doesn't work, you should test your monitor and cables.
  
  If the HDMI input on the monitor still works, you could try that for your PC using your existing cables and a DVI->HDMI adapter . Or you could try your PS4 on the DVI input. A HDMI->DVI adapter is also very inexpensive
  
  I would give that a shot to rule out the DVI port on your monitor going bad or your cables going bad. You could also try borrowing some cables from a friend or brining your devices to a friends house to try different connections to see what works.

If your monitor has only VGA (DSUB) input:
---

for the PS3: an HDMI to VGA adapter.

for the N64: Composite to VGA converter

for the SNES: The above converter plus a component cable like this if you don't already have one.



-------------

If your monitor has only DVI input:
----

for the PS3: An HDMI to DVI cable (or adapter).

for the N64: the above cable/adapter plus component to HDMI converter

for the SNES: both of the above plus a component cable like this if you don't already have one.

http://www.amazon.com/Importer520-Plated-Female-DVI-D-Adapter/dp/B0035B4LJM/

Most monitors below $100 use DVI and VGA input, but you could buy an adapter for less than $5 without any noticeable detriment to the connection.

This is probably your best bet. If you ask around with friends many video cards come with adapters like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0035B4LJM?cache=714ac8d121b09609fb88ebd92d041b56&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1406621512&sr=8-2#ref=mp_s_a_1_2

They are usually orange colored and will work well for what you are doing. You can get cheap HDMI cables on amazon for about $5 each that will also work. Don't spend $30 per cable on random marketing crap. Something like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NJH592/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_cG11tb0295PFVVEK should do the trick.

You can get a DVI to HDMI convertor or a DVI to HDMI cable if you also have DVI slots on your GPU, note that you won't be able to carry sound with either of these. You can probably find cheaper cables/converters than the ones I linked.

DVI and HDMI-video are pin-for-pin identical. DVI won't carry audio, but hopefully your monitor didn't come with speakers.

For standard stuff within the DVI DL spec (eg. 1600p 60Hz etc.) you can get a cheap passive adapter, if you don't already have one in your bin of spare parts.

HDMI supports fancier things now, I don't know the exact limitations of DVI offhand, but a $3 converter will work for your purposes if you already have an HDMI cable (as a DVI cable will cost you more than the converter.)

edit:

• $3.20 FS on amazon for the HDMI->DVI converter
  
  
• $2.30 at monoprice but you have to pay shipping/wait for a free shipping deal
  
  
• $6 for a 6ft DVI cable
  
  Note that you do want DVI-D or DVI-I. -A is analog and thats not what you want.
  
  edit2: Apparently audio is transferred over DVI too in some cases. Interesting.
  
  edit3: completely off topic, if you do order from monoprice and need good microUSB cables, the monoprice "premium" cables are awesome. I've replaced all the crap cables that come with devices as most only transfer 500mA. They'll push full-spec 1000mA+, have the stress relief thingies, are not at all stiff, plug in snug, etc. Highly recommended.

HDMI and DVI carry the same signal. Just get a DVI to HDMI cable or adapter.

Because the Wii U cable ends in a male connector, your convertor will need to go from a female HDMI connector to a male DVI connector, like this.

What does your monitor have...? That would be very helpful.

Is what you are looking for

Yeah. I know it sucks, I was expecting HDMI as well. This is a pretty nifty little device that lets you do dvi to hdmi: http://www.amazon.com/Gefen-HDMI-Cable-feet-Male-Male/dp/B0002CZHN6/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1417659405&sr=1-2&keywords=dvi+to+hdmi
If you already have a DVI and HDMI cable, they also have this device: http://www.amazon.com/Importer520-Plated-Female-DVI-D-Adapter/dp/B0035B4LJM/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1417659405&sr=1-3&keywords=dvi+to+hdmi
They're 5 bucks, so that should work pretty good for your purposes. Hope this helps

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but if you purchase an AGP card that has a DVI out, along with an DVI to HDMI adapter you should be able to attain what you want without having to look for a specific card.

Trying to find an AGP card with HDMI out sounds like a daunting task.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0035B4LJM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1451673642&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=hdmi+to+dvi&dpPl=1&dpID=51PdaaTE3UL&ref=plSrch

I was actually surprised to learn myself that some DVI devices do actually carry sound if adapted to HDMI. I actually learned this by mistake when purchasing an adapter and trying it out. The computer was hooked up with a regular 1/8" connector (I thought I made the stupid mistake of not getting a board with HDMI and settled for the 1/8"), but when the HDMI adapter was plugged in, suddenly my audio switched over to HDMI output!

I used this one, by the way: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0035B4LJM/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

As for RAM, I have 8GB. Video playback generally does not need much memory.

Ye ye, get this for your 3rd monitor and plug it direct into the laptop. Only way i've found Zbooks to display on 3 through the dock.

http://www.amazon.com/Accell-B087B-006B-DisplayPort-Single-Link-Certified/dp/B004071ZXA/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1451512001&sr=8-8&keywords=active+mini+display

Use an active mini displayport adapter like this one, and it should work.

You need an active MiniDP- DVI adapter. The passive will not work in conjunction with 2 other monitors in use. For 3 monitors to work, you need to use the 3 timing clocks on the card, 2 are reserved for DVI/HDMI and the 3rd is for the displayport. To use the displyport clock, you need the ACTIVE adapter to work properly.

Buy this adapter: http://www.amazon.com/Accell-B087B-006B-DisplayPort-Single-Link-Certified/dp/B004071ZXA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1368418601&sr=8-1&keywords=accell+mini+displayport+to+dvi+active

I needed an Active DisplayPort adapter to get a third monitor going on my 6950. It's possible you need the same.

I bought this one from Amazon and it worked great with my 6970:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004071ZXA

Its single link though so if you want to go higher than 1080/1200p you'll need the more expensive usb powered type.

Here's the one I've been using for the past couple years.

I'm not totally sure I follow what you're doing, but it sounds like you might need something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SP0WAQ

Maybe combined with a female-female TRRRS a coupler, depending on what you're going for in the end. It sounds like the Vive headset doesn't have the third Ring for microphone input, so you'll need to split it off and send it separately somehow. You might actually want to get one of those tiny USB sound cards (with separate headset and Mic ports) and plug it into the Vive, then plug the Mic cord from this adapter into it with a male-male coupler.
Like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LH1NQ9W

If this is true, you could also use something like a 3.5 mm to combo adapter (like: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-headsets-separate-headphone-microphone/dp/B004SP0WAQ), to connect a standalone microphone and a standalone headset through that port.

You will need a Y splitter.

Like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-headsets-separate-headphone-microphone/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1484712112&sr=8-9&keywords=y+splitter

This is illegal you know.

Anyway, really anything open will work fine. I believe you use this adapter and plug in the mic and 3.5mm output from the Sennheiser, then, the end of the adapter goes into the phone.

If your laptop has shared in/out audio plug (TRRS), you can just buy a splitter cable (example)

That could be your problem because I know the ports have to be the designated ports for the connection.

[here's the cable I'm using](StarTech.com Headset adapter for headsets with separate headphone / microphone plugs - 3.5mm 4 position to 2x 3 position 3.5mm M/F https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_z5UYxb9Y04YK3) it works and has those designated ports

This is what you would need.

http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-MUYHSMFF-Headset-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1407537064&sr=8-8&keywords=mobile+headset+adapter

The headphones and mic? The easiest way to do it is by using something like this to combine the signals from the mic and the headphones and plug it into either your PS4 controller or X1 chat adapter. In the case of headphones like the Philips X1 that use a 3.5mm input (you plug one of these into the headphones), you can use this, which automatically combines the audio output and mic input signal. Once again though, that doesn't really matter as of now. TL;DR: Use an adaper to combine the mic and headphone jacks and plug them into your controller, piece of cake. If you want more info, you can check out /r/headphones and ask some questions there. We're generally a nice community :)

Oh ok. I know exactly what you need then. My friend has Beat Studios & I bought him a headset mic for him that had the pink and green cables.

This is what I bought to get it to work with the headset adaptor.

StarTech.com MUYHSMFF 3.5mm 4-Pin to 2x 3-Pin 3.5mm Headset Splitter Adapter - M/F by StarTech http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_u.W7tb0EYW852

this is all you need for an xbox one

http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-MUYHSMFF-Headset-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B004SP0WAQ/

an xbox 360 will make things more complicated.

1. You'll never reach the quality of Teamspeak or Vent. My buddies actually have a Skype call setup on the side because we are so displeased with PS4's chat.
   That said, any 3.5mm PC headset works with the Dualshock 4 controller via a 3.5mm TRRS to (2) 3.5mm TRS adapter. I should note some of the higher-end headsets may require an external amp. I personally have a Sennheiser G4me One and it works fine.
   
   
2. The Playstation 4 is not region locked so there is no real downside. However, games are region locked to the DLCs... meaning all of your DLC downloads for that particular game will have to be purchased via the US PSN store. I believe this also means you'll have to use US PS+ time/money cards on the PSN store and/or a US credit card (don't quote me on the credit card part, not 100% if a US credit card is required or not).
   
   
3. No, not currently. Media capabilities is one of the major features they had on the Playstation 3 that they took away from the Playstation 4, and there have been lots of complaints about it. So I would expect Sony to eventually add the capability back in eventually. But I can guarantee it isn't on top on their priority list.

Great guide! The only thing I would add is that for people with headsets like this
: http://www.amazon.com/Plantronics-GameCom-777-Surround-Technology/dp/B001KURYAS/
where the speakers and mic are separate, you need this type of cable:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SP0WAQ/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also note that you need to plug the headset and mic into this cable FIRST before plugging it into the adapter. I'm using this setup currently and it works great!

Edit: I can't link correctly apparently.

Yes, pretty much every 3.5mm to Haedset & Microphone adaptor will do the trick.

Example

I use on of these sometimes when I'm streaming so that I can use a better mic.

I'd rather use a headset mic because of people around the house can be picked up pretty easily through it, but if i can't find some type of adapter, then i can manage like that, then.

EDIT= Would something like this work? I just pulled it from the first amazon link i saw, so i might get a better quality one if this is the correct type of adapter. http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-MUYHSMFF-Headset-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B004SP0WAQ

http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-headsets-separate-headphone-microphone/dp/B004SP0WAQ

That will combine the two jacks into one, allowing you to plug it into your laptop.

I don't think that one. You need one that splits to a mic jack and a headphone jack. That one splits to two headphone jacks. You could get one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=pd_ecc_rvi_cart_3 or one of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SP0WAQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2E7NH3SLWCOH4

Yes they will work on the PS4

As for your other comment, you need something like this. Not sure if that exact one will work, there are others who can chime in to confirm.

You need this:

StarTech.com Headset adapter for headsets with separate headphone / microphone plugs - 3.5mm 4 position to 2x 3 position 3.5mm M/F https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_CGXDxbFYS141A

Guys on the PS4 subreddit recommended the following:

Lapel Mic: http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-3-5mm-Hands-Computer-Microphone/dp/B005DJOIHE/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1409630753&sr=1-3&keywords=clip+mic

Splitter: http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-MUYHSMFF-Headset-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1409631209&sr=8-2&keywords=4-pole+y-splitter

I ordered them both and they will arrive tomorrow. Will let you know if it works.

You could use the first adaptor with this one, but it's probably best to minimize the number of points where it could fail. Honestly, I'd invest in a Zoom H1 or Tascam DR-05 (plus the standard adaptor), which are only $100, cheaper on Ebay. It's always a good idea to invest in sound.

You're looking for something like this. Note that is NOT just a splitter, its an adapter meant to split your laptop's 4position audio jack into 2x 3position jacks, one for input(mic) and one for output(headset). That link is just the first option I found linked from this article. I'm sure there are other options, just be sure you're not getting a simple splitter as that won't do what you want.

Yes, you can do that. Check out this or this.

If you are serious about it, https://www.amazon.com/Antlion-Audio-ModMic-Attachable-Microphone/dp/B00R98JVVU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474142778&sr=8-1&keywords=modmic

if you wanted DIY you could do this http://imgur.com/gallery/bKU4H/

or use the zalman clip on mic as its highly rated and cheap.

regardless youll need a audio + mic adapter to 4 pole output. https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-headsets-separate-headphone-microphone/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474143088&sr=8-1&keywords=computer+headset+adapter should work fine :)

You need to buy mic/headphone splitter (not sure about this particalar model but something like this).

Im sorry, that really sucks. Razer isn't really known for making products that last though, probably better to get something else next time. As for your problem you could get something like this.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-headsets-separate-headphone-microphone/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=pd_sbs_147_1/258-1817218-3341868

Get the headset adapter for the X1 and then I think you'll need something like this (not 100% since I'm not entirely familiar with the Siberia V2's) and just use the Siberia V2's on your X1 as well.

Do you have a four pin adapter? Like this.

If you wanted to sit a distance away from your xbox, you should have gotten the A50s. A40s are meant for people who sit right in front of their monitors.

Now if this makes you unhappy, this might work, but considering how the inline mute cable is specifically made by astro, there might be same sort of compatibility issue.You would also lose the mute function. Something like this would plug into the two prongs on the inline mute cable, then get something like this to plug it into the mixamp from a distance. Now again this really might not work, but trying this might be better then buying a whole new headset.

I highly suggest a Behringer UCA202 ($30, or a UCA 222, different color) as it's a cheap line level input and output interface and uses RCA unbalanced connections. Either wire this into the tape or main mix outputs and you you should be set.

Shame you can't return it for the Q802.

Edit: I looked up your laptop and it looks like it either has only a stereo out headset port or it uses a TRRS headset port like most cell phones. In this case you nee an adapter and it actually depends on how it's wired. If an iPhone headset works with it you can use a Rockit adapter.

http://www.amazon.com/Extrasensory-Devices-ESDHW011-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B006T65CXE/

Of an iPhone headset doesn't work but android headsets do then most other adapters will work.

http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-headsets-separate-headphone-microphone/dp/B004SP0WAQ/

Notice these are only going to give you mono audio in. The UCA222 is a better bet and will actually work. I'd still try and exchange it.

!

For recording cell phone conversations, you can get a 1/8" 4-Pin break out cable that separates the phone audio into a stereo plug and a plug that returns a signal to the phone's microphone. On an audio mixer you take the audio into a channel and record that and then send back an AUX mix of your voice so the person can hear you. You want to use an AUX channel to send back your mic to the phone and not the whole signal with the phone audio back top the phone. It will create echos and feedback.

Here's an example from Amazon

https://smile.amazon.com/StarTech-com-headsets-separate-headphone-microphone/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1486796608&sr=8-6&keywords=Headphone+Mic+y+adapter

Hey,

So you're right in thinking you can't connect the headset directly to the interface. In theory you could use a splitter, but this mean you can only connect it to input 2 which might cause problems in programs like Skype. You wouldn't have that issue with a 2i2.

You'd need a TRRS splitter like this so you can run the separate connections to the appropriate place.

Okay what you could do is use a headphone mic splitter like this (https://www.amazon.com/Maeline-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1497882570&sr=8-4&keywords=headphone+mic+splitter)
Then put the headphones into the amp and the mic into an extender that goes to the mic input on the PC if you're using USB for your amp or if you're using aux for your amp you can plug both your amp and mic into a headphone mic adapter like this (https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-headsets-separate-headphone-microphone/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1497882834&sr=8-6&keywords=headphone+microphone+adapter) that will temporally separate the headphone and mic and plug only the headphones into the amp. I may be misinterpreting what you want to do but I hope this helps

The laptop has a combination headphone/mic jack- meant for headsets/cell phone style earbuds.

Option 1- grab a splitter that separates the three-conductor plug into dual two-conductor plugs. example
Option 2- grab a cheap USB condenser mic for much better audio- example

You could probably take a headphone y-adapter and hack it so it connects to two GA female jacks. Here's some info on the plugs on your headsets

"For most of the fixed wing (airplane) crowd, you'll be best served with the standard dual male plugs. These are known as the PJ-055 (.25 inch / 6.35mm) and PJ-068 (.206 inch / 5.25mm) plugs. The PJ-055 provides audio to the ear cups and the PJ-068 is for your microphone. These plugs will work in almost all civilian and commercial airplanes, even when other options might work as well. If you're in doubt, these are generally a safe bet. The PJ-055 is also known as the M642/4-1 and the PJ-068 is also known as the M642/5-1."

Play sound out of TV while wearing a bluetooth ear piece connected to your phone. Problem solved :)

But perhaps this is more like what you're looking to do ->

First you have to split your phone out to separate audio and mic ports. I'll link the cable you could use below. You'll run tv audio out and phone audio out into a behringer x502 mixer. Then you'll run the combined source-out into one of Sennheiser's wireless TV headphones. That will cover your audio, you'll obviously wear the wireless sennheiser headphones for the sound. I think you should be able to connect a corded mic to the mic from the splitter and give yourself the usable mic.

So here is a splitter cable for your phone.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-headsets-separate-headphone-microphone/dp/B004SP0WAQ

Instead of wireless headphones and a wired mic you could just do a wired headphone and mic combo that has separate cables or you can remerge the newly mixed audio-out and the mic back into 1 jack and plug a regular mic/audio headset in. Up to you I guess. It would save on some money but then you'll be wearing a cord. At least with the only wire being on the mic you can just use a desktop purposed mic. You'll have the weigh the pros and cons yourself.

You can with a sound splitter like this.

My setup is Steelseries Siberia v2 > startech 2x 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable > xbox headset adapter. Works perfectly for me and sound quality is great. Plus the retractable mic is a nice touch.

headset link

3.5mm adapter for mic and audio

You need a splitter. https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-headsets-separate-headphone-microphone/dp/B004SP0WAQ

If you don't have a combo jack already built in you can't do this with software, it's a limitation to the number of contacts in the port. You will notice 4 contacts on your headphone plug and there are only three in each of the ports. so no software will fix that limitation

So what is happening is that your headset combines the mic and headphone jack to one input whereas most PC's split it. Just buy a cable like this: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-headsets-separate-headphone-microphone/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=br_lf_m_ceuun2nq7wpk4e9_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&s=aht

Okay, so your headset is an amplified stereo headset. I have never used yours but I have a pair of Turtle Beach X11's which function the same way (although I don't use them anymore). The following setup works on Xbox One with my X11's so I don't see why it shouldn't work with yours.

You will need an open USB port on your Xbox One to use the headset since it needs to be powered. You don't need the 2.5mm cable.

The Stereo Headset Adapter's port is a CTIA standard 3.5mm port. What this basically means is that it works with 3.5mm jacks which are able to transmit both stereo sound and microphone sound over the same connection. Your headset transmits stereo sound through the green jack, and microphone sound through the pink jack. So, you need to buy an adapter which will combine both your stereo sound and microphone sound into a single CTIA 3.5mm jack. This should do the trick.

For setup, you would plug the USB cable into an open port on your Xbox One, plug the green and pink jacks from your headset into the adapter cable, and then plug the single end of the adapter cable into the Stereo Headset Adapter. Again, you don't need the 2.5mm cable anymore.

Last thing I'll point out is that this setup works with any standard PC headset (one with a green jack for sound and pink jack for microphone). Since your headset is amplified I'm guessing there is a background hissing noise when you plug it in. If you want to get rid of that you could just buy any PC headset that you like, and it will work with this setup. Note however that you would lose any features of your headset that require a power source (e.g. bass boost, mic monitoring, etc.).

Labtec LVA7330 ClearVoice Head Microphone (Discontinued by Manufacturer) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00000JBRV/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_aOWJub1E1RF8N

StarTech.com Headset adapter for headsets with separate headphone / microphone plugs - 3.5mm 4 position to 2x 3 position 3.5mm M/F https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_wPWJub1KW72C9

This is the setup I have. Works great. Mic is excellent quality. Just add whatever headphones you like as long as they have a 3.5mm jack which is pretty much the standard, then your good to go. You could use a pair of headphones you already have and buy this mic and adapter and your all set.

You need a TRRS to TRS splitter and an XLR to 1/8" cable.

I think I linked to the wrong adapter! You need to make sure the end that plugs into your iDevice is a TRRS, which stands for Tip Ring Ring Sleeve. That's the one with 4 metal sections and 3 plastic insulators in between, like this one or this one. Edit: on my last shoot, I actually used the iRig Pre with a similar cable to feed a pro shotgun mike into a Canon 7D as backup audio for an interview. Not ideal, due to the Canon's noisy preamp, but usable in a pinch. Good thing, too as my primary audio was a Zoom H4N which ran out of batteries in the middle, hosing a 9-minute take! Aargh! I did manage to recover all but the last minute or so by using an arcane method of opening a disc image of the SD card as raw data in Audacity as found in this Creative Cow Thread. Anyway, yay for redundancy! Good luck!

Plug this adapter into your iphone.

Then this cable from your ipad headphone jack to the 'mic' input of the adapter above.

Should be good.

You could try to see if it's possible to mod your headphones to remove the locking mechanism. I did a similar 'procedure' with my HD 598s.

The Antlion Modmic doesn't connect to your headphones. They attach to your headphones via magnetic (I think :P) clasps and then you plug it into your computer. And assuming your MBP only has one 3.5mm jack, you'll need an adapter like this.

I am copy-pasting the relevant portion from Help - Cosplay (from our audio recorder app which is for Android) - it relates to how to connect the earphone jack to an external microphone and external speaker - i.e. a setup suitable for cosplay (but will give you some idea of the options):

Quote:

Capabilities of the earphone jack on Android devices

The earphone jack on your device has pins for 2 channel (stereo) output, and 1 channel (mono) input. This is the case for both Android devices and iOS devices. That is, you can only have mono microphone input. This is why headsets have stereo earphones, but only one microphones (mono).

Here is a website with a good explanation of the earphone jack on your android device, and what the pins on the jack are used for (stereo out and mono in) - see the section - External microphone through the headset port.

Audio Recording With a Smartphone





Recommendations for Y-splitter cables and external speakers

For the external speaker, one with a wired connection will work, and these cost from 5 USD to 10 USD.

Y-splitters are also cheap (1 USD to 5 USD), but finding ones that actually work is more difficult (since headphone splitters look very similar, or the Y-splitter is made incorrectly).

Here is a combination of Y-splitter and external speaker that is recommended by cosplayers (the external speaker comes with a wearable directional microphone suitable for cosplay). These are costly, but known to work:



Manufacturer direct order links:

Rockit Y-splitter - Cost 11.95 USD



VoiceBooster MR1505 (Aker) 12watt Voice Amplifier - SKU: MR1505-12W - Cost 54 USD



VoiceBooster MR1506 (Aker) 10watt Voice Amplifier - SKU: MR1506-10W - Cost 48 USD




Y-splitters available on Amazon (we have not tested these)

ENVEL 3.5mm Jack Cable Adapter Kit Mutual Convertors for PC headset and Smartphone Tablet Earphone with Headphone/Microphone Function Simultaneously Y Splitter Audio 2 Female to 1 Male (Cable) - Cost 5 USD



StarTech.com Headset adapter for headsets with separate headphone / microphone plugs - 3.5mm 4 position to 2x 3 position 3.5mm M/F - Cost 7 USD

BEBONCOOL(TM) 3.5mm 4-Pin to 2x 3-Pin 3.5mm Headset Splitter Adapter M/F - Cost 6 USD



The same Aker speakers are available on Amazon:

VoiceBooster Voice Amplifier 12watts Black MR1505 (Aker) by TK Products, Portable, for Teachers, Coaches, Tour Guides, Presentations, Costumes, Etc. - Cost 64 USD



Y-splitters available on Ali Express (we have not tested these)

[Splitter Headphones jack 3.5 mm Stereo Audio Y-Splitter 2 Female 1 Male Cable Adapter with separate headphone / microphone plug - Cost 1.55 USD] (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-1pcs-lot-Gold-plated-Audio-Stereo-Plug-3-5mm-1-Male-to-2-Female/32339337262.html)

Splitter Headphones 3.5 mm plug Stereo Audio Y-Splitter 2 Female 1 Male Cable Adapter with separate headphone microphone jack - Cost 3 USD



The same Aker speakers are available on Ali Express:

Aker MR1505 Waistband Portable Loud Voice Booster Amplifier Speaker VoiceBooster Amplifier 12watts for MP3 - Cost about 30 USD

Aker MR1506 Voice Amplifier 10watts Black for Teachers, Coaches, Tour Guides, Presentations, Costumes etc - Cost about 30 USD

http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-MUYHSMFF-Headset-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=pd_cp_e_3

here is one i use

Something like these:

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-headsets-separate-headphone-microphone/dp/B004SP0WAQ

Edit: I have done much research into these, but in theory they should work, as long as they are CTIA compliant

or use this one that I use for less than $10.


The reason plugging a 3.5mm output into a phone is because most phones nowadays use combi jack ports for using in-line mics on headphones.

Il existe des "Y" capables de séparer les canaux. Cherche TRRS to TRS.
Il peut aussi se trouver en bundle avec certains casque/micros, comme les HyperX cloud /QPAD QH-90.

what about this kind of option (or have I misunderstood?)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-headsets-separate-headphone-microphone/dp/B004SP0WAQ

Get a 3 band 3.5mm to 2 3.5mm jack adapter, like this.

Get yourself one of these, exact one doesn't matter: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-headsets-separate-headphone-microphone/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=pd_lpo_23_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=SDHRWRSB2H1S65DME5PB

Probably this: http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-headsets-separate-headphone-microphone/dp/B004SP0WAQ/

That should get you stereo sound and a working mic. You'll need a mixamp ($$$) if you want dolby surround.

There are also cheap mics like the Zalman Mic. You'll need an adapter like this that combines heaphones and mics if you end up choosing one that has a separate cord (Like modmic).

Sounds like you can pick up a 2 in one converter likely your laptops has a combined port much like what smartphone use.

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-headsets-separate-headphone-microphone/dp/B004SP0WAQ

You can also get a USB headset which will take care of this as well.

Yes as long as the male part of the 2.5 to 3.5 is 4 pole. There should be 3 black rings.

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00T0ROWE4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478651041&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=4+pole+2.5mm+female+to+3.5mm+male&dpPl=1&dpID=31GmZpLuzHL&ref=plSrch

If you need a splitter: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-MUYHSMFF-Headset-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=pd_cp_pc_0

Elite pro: $199.99


Versus my recommendation:

Sennheiser HD 598C (Amazon will have them on sale for 99.99 for Black Friday, according to various sources) $99.99

ModMic $54.99

Any Y adapter will work, like this $7

Grand total: $164

Now you have something that sounds better than any gaming headset.

Now, if you are dead set on getting a gaming headset, I'd heavily recommend HyperX over anything else.

yeah you just need something like this http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-headsets-separate-headphone-microphone/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422473011&sr=8-1&keywords=headphone+mic+adapter.

To get both chat and game audio in your headset, I think you're going to need the stereo headset adapter. As for connecting a separate headphone and mic, you'll need something like this: http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-headsets-separate-headphone-microphone/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=pd_bxgy_e_text_y

I haven't personally tried this yet, but it should work. Worst case scenario you're out $7 for the adapter, and you have the stereo headset adapter you'll need to connect any headset.

umm. its complicated. Short answer is no.

the laptop jack is a 4 ring headset jack, that's different from a mic jack.

It's designed for headphones with mics built in, and also simple headphones. It will not work with microphones by default.

In some laptops you can change a setting to make it work, while in others you just can't.

I don't know what the deal with the 720 is.

Assuming you can't change a setting, alternatives are USB sound card, which can be pretty cheap and simple like this:

Or you can buy an adapter like this that fixes the wiring: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-headsets-separate-headphone-microphone/dp/B004SP0WAQ

Most hardware stores should have either option, given how last minute your situation is.

The reason is likely because you were trying mics were not also headphones(i.e. a headset). This splitter is required if you want to plug in just headphones, or just a mic.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SP0WAQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Apologies these are the English Amazon pages, but I think you can search the Amazon product number on the listing to find it in your area.

Cable:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B004SP0WAQ?cache=ddd3f2d6e23583d64a92699c8d841dde&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1411460485&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

Smartlav:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00EO4A7L0?cache=ddd3f2d6e23583d64a92699c8d841dde&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1411460567&sr=8-2#ref=mp_s_a_1_2

Pretty sure what you posted won't work. This is what you need:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004SP0WAQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1394392067&sr=8-2

I have this and it works for a similar use case to what you described.

I bought the Turtle Beach X-Ray during the Thanksgiving sale they had for $99 they were normally 200... I think they suck. Bass is no where to be heard lol. They just suck. My old Turtle Beach X1's sounded way better. My Logitech G35 blow them out of the water.

I am going to get a new headset that will work hooked into my denon receiver for those late nights when I am gaming on my HTPC, watching cable, playing Xbox etc, as well as be able to use on the new adapter for when I am gaming on Xbox and want to use chat.

On my main PC I use my Logitech G35. I will be getting a pair of Sennheisers, I had a pair at my last job and the audio quality was amazing. They were also one of the most comfortable pair of cans I have ever worn. I wore them all day at work listening to music and they were awesome.

Then I will sell my turtle beach and I will never buy another pair of turtle beach headsets.

If you do order a PC headset, I would try to find one that does not require USB... that way you don't have to have a laptop or something sitting next to you plugged in etc.

Also you should buy this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SP0WAQ/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 that way you can get chat and audio working from the adapter.

Does anyone know if the pin layout for this splitter works with the Xbox adapter?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SP0WAQ/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hold on a sec, I don't think that's necessarily the right answer... You definitely won't just be able to plug a microphone into the headset jack (which I think is what McQueenMK did), but the M8 (like most smartphones) use a TRRS jack to connect a headset with a microphone in one jack. By itself that won't help you with using an external mic, but with an adaptor like this one, you get separate headphone and microphone jacks which would let you connect an external mic as long as it has a 3.5mm connector. Please note that this won't necessarily work for all microphones, depending on factors like output level and impedance. Adapters like this are also available, which have the conversion to XLR built-in as well as additional components to help with impedance matching, but I can't vouch for that as I've never tried it myself.

Edit: To answer your original question a bit better, I haven't tried recording video using the external mic, but I can't see why it wouldn't work (but I can test tomorrow). If it doesn't work with the stock camera app, I know there are 3rd party camera apps that claim to be able to do it.

This was an excellent find. I went and even ordered myself ones. Thanks for sharing! I also included a quick link to the Amazon.com reseller link.

If you're using a headset (speaker+mic) with a 2.5mm plug, something like this should work.

I prefer to just use the headset adapter, this cable, and regular 3.5mm connector microphone and good headphones.

Its much easier to just buy a premade cable: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SP0WAQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

I've used this one with my Moto X and a shotgun mic.

This is the adapter I'm using along wtih this Sony mic and it works great no issues with it at all.

Well first of all it doesn't have a line in/out. It's a headphone and mic port.

Second, yes you can get them for cheap. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004SP0WAQ?pc_redir=1414393404&robot_redir=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004SP0WAQ/ref=pd_aw_sim_23_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=41WCy3b0sCL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL300_SR300%2C300_&refRID=11C3F6ZNZ74ZB31TP6Y5

Yes they will work with an Xbox One X but you'll need an additional mic because they don't come with one.

One option is the ever popular Mod Mic. In order to use that, though, you'll need to get a Y splitter so you can plug in both your headphones and mic into the Xbox controller.

This is different than a normal splitter you're probably thinking of which takes one audio source and splits it into two because in this case you need to take two separate audio sources (headphones and an input mic) and put them into the Xbox.

Here's the splitter I use for my XboX

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SP0WAQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Use an adapter

What if you just get a clip on mic that attaches to your headphone's cord and an adapter that takes a microphone and headphone and converts it to one of the newer plugs (like on the iPhone headphones)?

It'd be a bit more expensive, but also a lot cleaner

Something like this and a clip on mic http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004SP0WAQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1417807377&sr=8-1

I have razer kraken pros and I bought this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SP0WAQ thinking that it would pick up both my mic and speakers. But like I said the mic wasn't getting picked up, then I read that I needed cables with 3 rings, my headset came with 2 ring cables.

Something like this would work: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004SP0WAQ/ref=pd_aw_sim_107_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ATV3Z2JZKZRFD860CAZR

Apple headphones will not work but as for the Logitechs, I also have a pair of Legitechs and all I needed was this cable.

Thanks for your input!

It looks like I'm going to be connecting my xbone to my monitor via HDMI and then from my monitor I'm going to connect to my bose speaker via 3.5mm audio cable


As far as the headset i picked up this adapter that was recommended by someone on the forums.

In theory i should be able to connect both the audio and mic cable to the controller thru that wire. It seems the only downside is having that extra wire, which i don't mind at all.

You need a ctia standard 2 into one cable 3.5mm cable.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B004SP0WAQ/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got this one and it works without issue.

Hi , This is what your looking for. Use it all the time you just have to find the right mic and remember game audio with go in to mic.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004SP0WAQ/ref=pd_aw_fbt_23_img_2/186-8237868-5026425?ie=UTF8&refRID=1EJZATCMY3M94N3HJPZ1

Have you considered asking over at /r/headphones? I use my pc setup that works just fine with a $5 adapter. My setup is a pair of Audio Technica ATH-AD900x and a ModMic. It's a bit over your budget but I'm sure you could find something similar. The key is the adapter.

Yeah, a Y adapter is what he needs but with the opposite ends to what you linked to. He needs 2 female ends going to 1 male end:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004SP0WAQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1449422732&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=StarTech&dpPl=1&dpID=41WCy3b0sCL&ref=plSrch

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004SP0WAQ/

Easy fix

Use any headset you want. Here's what I did...

Buy: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HZOVW0Q

But get the one that only comes with just mic. Not the splitter+mic, as this splitter won't do what you need it to.

Next, you need a splitter that's compatible: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004SP0WAQ

With this setup you can use any headphones you want. I personally use the Sennheiser HD 598's. They are extremely comfortable, with amazing sound. Best of all they have open vented ears so there is proper airflow which really helps audio sound extra wonderful.

• If you use the free trial of PSN, remember that it is a subscription and you need to manually unsubscribe otherwise it will auto-renew at the most expensive price.
  
• In the Chat Party settings there is a slider to adjust the game sound to chat volume balance.
  
• As the controller has a handy jack plug on it, you can use a 4 pole splitter and a lapel mic and plug in some nice headphones to get set up for chat without breaking the bank.

I believe you can get an adapter to make it work.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004SP0WAQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1425861439&sr=8-1&keywords=mic+and+headphone+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=41WCy3b0sCL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

Just buy a bunch of these: http://amzn.com/B004SP0WAQ

Its how I do it.

Yes, it connects with a 3.5mm jack. You can get a USB headset or just use an adapter like this http://amzn.com/B004SP0WAQ

If the transmitter plugs into a standard 3.5mm phone jack, I think something like this should do the job, though I'd wait for someone else to confirm this because as far as I know that's for splitting mic/audio into two jacks, not for combining outputs. Jacks which carry audio as well as microphone input have 4 segments (TRRS), while jacks which carry only stereo audio have 3 (TRS).

You'd probably want one or two of these as well.

A cable like this should work: http://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-3-5mm-Headset-Splitter-Adapter-Black/dp/B0058DOWH6

Your headphones have an in-line microphone that is meant for mobile devices. The audio jack on your headset is a headphone/mic combo. If you try it on your phone, the audio and microphone should both work.

Unfortunately, your PC will need a headphone/microphone combo port to get audio and be able to use the microphone at the same time. Many newer laptops including mine have this port, but desktop PCs do not.

You will have to purchase an audio microphone splitter like this one for your headphones to work completely with your PC.

I opened the laptop and looked. here's where to open the mic cal file in TrueRTA. The system calibration is just putting a loopback cable from input to output on the sound card so it can try to make a flat response. You can download it from here, plug in the mic, then hit go and start playing. The only thing with the IMM6 is that it has the headphone passthrough, some computer mic inputs will get confused and you'd need something like this which is what I use on my laptop. With the free version you only get 1 octave RTA(fat blocks instead of the thin lines like I have) but it's still more resolution than your EQ so it will help. My EQ is 31 bands on every channel, including sub, so I drunkenly purchased the level 3 TrueRTA.

You're right, I should've read it a bit better. I had one coming up in a link but got impatient - this should do the job.

This is actually a Windows limitation, I've done HOURS of research. It seems you have to get a splitter for your earbuds so they plug into both the mic and speaker port.

When I say splitter, I mean something like this https://www.amazon.ca/Startech-MUYHSFmm-Headset-Splitter-Adapter-F/dp/B0058DOWH6/186-4082773-6026466

EDIT: This explains further http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-1653091/headphone-built-microphone-working.html

Yeah, they make splitters.

http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-MUYHSFMM-Headset-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B0058DOWH6

Is there a reason you don't want to use the included USB DAC? Not enough USB ports?

I had the same issue. This fixed it and made my mic sound a lot better: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474397977&sr=8-1&keywords=sabrent+usb

If your headphones/mic combo is one single connector, you'll need this to split it into separate channels: https://www.amazon.com/Startech-MUYHSFmm-Headset-Splitter-Adapter-F/dp/B0058DOWH6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1474398237&sr=1-1&keywords=f+to+m+headset

You probably use a 3pin splitter, but the apple headset uses 4 pin.
The one you need is something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-MUYHSFMM-Headset-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B0058DOWH6

You can semi "fix" this by kinda putting the cables in 3/4 of the way into the adapter.

Almost no custom pc components have combined 4 pole headphone+Mic jacks, they use the 3 pole jacks that can only handle one of those signals. You will need to get a 4 pole to dual 3 pole splitter (should be less than $5) to use headphone and Mic features simultaneously.

Edit: here is one on Amazon, is a bit pricy though.

You need the right sort of splitter

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-MUYHSFMM-Headset-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B0058DOWH6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1495045647&sr=8-5&keywords=4+position+splitter

you'll need a splitter cable to split the 1 plug into both a mic and audio plug, then you'd just plug that into your PC for the microphone and headset jacks

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-MUYHSFMM-Headset-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B0058DOWH6

You’ll need this to plug into your mobo’s led pin, the other end will be used for rgb accessories.

Phanteks RGB LED 4 Pin Adapter, Specified for Cases with Multi Colors RGB Control (PH-CB_RGB4P) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BZIBJAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rtgiAbYQEQ4DB

If you buy this adapter you can control your case's lighting via Asus's software and the mobo's RGB connector.

I'm using a HUE+ with my Evolv TG and while the standard set of strips don't fully circle the window (they make a 'u' for about 2/3 of the total distance, I'd guess), I'm still pleased with how it looks (in that photo you can see on the upper-left where the LED strip ends, just shy of the top of the 120 rad).

You will need an adapter like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Adapter-Specified-Control-PH-CB_RGB4P/dp/B01BZIBJAK/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=phanteks+rgb+adapter&qid=1562016627&s=gateway&sr=8-1

That's a splitter though. OP needs to connect a 3-pin (5v) to his 4-pin (12v) header.

/u/AnonymousGamingS2K, there isn't any adapters since the voltages are different. You'll need to get a seperate controller that can do addressable RGB (like this).

Hey, I have a similar setup and I purchased this to get it all synced. Works a treat and looks beautiful, you just connect it to the RGB header on your motherboard and the other to the front LED strip (assuming it's the front like mine).

Oh and don't forget to download the Asus Aura software, though be mindful if you have G Skill RGB RAM that you don't use GSkill's software. Asus Aura can control both and the Gskill one just crashes it.

If you picked up an EVGA power adapter thing for your card, it’ll look even better.

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-PowerLink-Support-Founders-600-PL-2816-LR/dp/B01MQ1YEYH

EVGA PowerLink?

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-PowerLink-Support-Founders-600-PL-2816-LR/dp/B01MQ1YEYH

Well worth the $10

These are good suggestions but the first thing I noticed was the GPU power cable. It's the same for my builds. I just ordered an EVGA powerlink for each to clean this up. They've been on sale for $5 twice this month on Amazon. Keep an eye on /r/buildapcsales or set up a CamelCamelCamel alert for another price drop.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQ1YEYH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_N6A8Bb59K6YSE

It’s powered. EVGA sells a little brace like piece for the founders edition cards that moves the ports to the front end of the GPU

EVGA PowerLink, Support All NVIDIA Founders Edition & All EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 Ti/2080/GTX 1080 Ti/1080/1070 Ti/1070/1060 600-PL-2816-LR https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQ1YEYH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1WE-BbEXF3F07

My second one is on the way right now but I just had to plug it in and start playing.

Depending on how your case and GPU work, you can sometimes use one of these EVGA Powerlink adapters which route your GPU cables to the side instead of straight down in front. If you have grommets there it makes them almost disappear entirely.

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-PowerLink-Support-Founders-600-PL-2816-LR/dp/B01MQ1YEYH/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=evga+power+bridge&qid=1555804631&s=ga

That board does not have the internal header for front I/O. However, if you have, say, a Dan A4, with only USB-C front I/O, you can convert the USB 3.0 header with an adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/LINKUP-Internal-Motherboard-Converter-Adapter/dp/B07WG8ZJ41/ref=sr_1_19

You can't. You need a Type-E internal header for external Type-C port. Your board only has a single USB 3.0 internal header. If it had another one, you could use an adapter which would give you Type-C front port running at 5GB/s USB 3.0 speed.

LINKUP USB 3.0 (3.1 Gen 2)... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WG8ZJ41?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

edit another comment posted something similar, the one I linked seems to be well reviewed, may work better idk


If your motherboard has a USB3.0 or 3.1 gen 1 internal header you can convert it to USB 3.1 gen two (USB c) with this

https://www.amazon.com/LINKUP-Internal-Motherboard-Converter-Adapter/dp/B07WG8ZJ41/ref=gp_aw_ybh_a_10?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=C5QGGWEPBJH07AZYMC6M

Won't get gen2 speeds on gen 1 tho (5gbs vs 10gbs)

This can adapt a regular USB 3.0 header to a USB C header: https://www.amazon.com/LINKUP-Internal-Motherboard-Converter-Adapter/dp/B07WG8ZJ41/

Looks like this is what you want: https://www.amazon.com/LINKUP-Internal-Motherboard-Converter-Adapter/dp/B07WG8ZJ41/

It is a 4 cable. Here is the link for the adapter I’m wondering about: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01BZIBJAK/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_LKQjDb8XEEWEY

I know. I don't actually know which connector I need to plug in for the rgb strip, but I just contacted asus and they told me I need an adapter which sounds about right. For anyone else having this problem the adapter is here: https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Adapter-Specified-Control-PH-CB_RGB4P/dp/B01BZIBJAK

If you have a phanteks case with an LED controller then the halos can go in there. If not, you'll need an adapter cable to connect it to your motherboard which you can find here.

Edit: I should add, the halo lux rings come with the adapter I think.

Have this case as well as an Asus Aura motherboard. Turns out you need a separate cable to get the case lighting to use Aura sync, it's $5 so not a huge deal, but something I wasn't expecting.

https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Adapter-Specified-Control-PH-CB_RGB4P/dp/B01BZIBJAK

This?

https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Adapter-Specified-Control-PH-CB_RGB4P/dp/B01BZIBJAK/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01BZIBJAK&pd_rd_r=9bad0075-c3c5-11e8-9d8c-cbd4feed3ce3&pd_rd_w=YpCMK&pd_rd_wg=6hRza&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=6725dbd6-9917-451d-beba-16af7874e407&pf_rd_r=7192ST2C3KRAXQVBSG37&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=7192ST2C3KRAXQVBSG37

You need the Phanteks RGB adapter. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BZIBJAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pXACCbRS1NT25

If you're still using the P400S and that motherboard then you might consider getting the RGB adapter from Phanteks. It lets you connect the case RGB lights and your included RGB strip to the motherboards RGB header so that you could control both the case's lights and the strip with your mobo's RGB software.

and I will have no problem with rgb fan or rgb fan frames as well, in terms of available headers on mobo? or Will some things just be plugged into my psu?

i was thinking i needed this for something

https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Adapter-Specified-Control-PH-CB_RGB4P/dp/B01BZIBJAK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1543116932&sr=8-2&keywords=RGB+LED+ADAPTER

you need an this adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BZIBJAK/ one end goes into the mobo rgb header the the end connects to the halos

Aesthetics and Mystic Light compatibility with the MSI motherboard. It's also possible to use a compatible case like a Phanteks P400 or P400S + adapter.

UPDATE: finally found what i was looking for:

https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Adapter-Specified-Control-PH-CB_RGB4P/dp/B01BZIBJAK

now i just gotta find my extension

Nothing came with the strip I bought. But, I noticed that this adapter was frequently bought together (with the PHANTEK LED strip).
https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Adapter-Specified-Control-PH-CB-RGB4P/dp/B01BZIBJAK/ref=pd_sim_147_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01BZIBJAK&pd_rd_r=032ADFZV3PG8AA2HZ5BA&pd_rd_w=nwgFD&pd_rd_wg=xYNBq&psc=1&refRID=032ADFZV3PG8AA2HZ5BA

Is using this going to correct the colors?

Hard to find decent single RGB fans, I'd suggest going the regular fan with a Phanteks Halo route.

fan

Phanteks Halo

Adapter to motherboard

HERE

​

Just plug it in to the connection coming off of the front panel, and then plug the other side on to the motherboards 4 pin RGB connector. Whenever you boot up the system just hold the RGB option button and it should sync with the motherboard lights.

​

HERE is a picture of my system to show all of the Halos fans (connected to my motherboard/case via the Phanteks adapter) sync together with the motherboard.

If you have an Asus motherboard, buy this adapter and plug one end of the RGB strip into it and the other onto the motherboard.

Is this the sort of thing you need?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Phanteks-RGB-LED-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01BZIBJAK/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506601546&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=rgb+header+expansion

https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Adapter-Specified-Control-PH-CB_RGB4P/dp/B01BZIBJAK/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_2/146-4769952-2692502?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01BZIBJAK&pd_rd_r=adbbab01-474a-11e9-9fed-6f308a1afb98&pd_rd_w=N5E71&pd_rd_wg=g82OG&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=VZETKFNASSS7M6KTK2AM&psc=1&refRID=VZETKFNASSS7M6KTK2AM&tag=linus21-20

This might be what I sent before but they say it's compatible with 4 pin mobos and their case, and people online seem to think this works?

I have a Phanteks P400S case and a Gigabyte K5 AX370 mobo.. just discovered a cheap adapter cable that is supposed to make my mobo RGB and case RGB flash in sync.. anybody know if this will work with this case and mobo setup?

Here is the adapter: Phanteks LED 4 Pin Adapter, Specified for Cases with Multi Colors RGB Control PH-CB_RGB4P https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01BZIBJAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BD4bBbP7QWHDX

Okay so lemme try to explain again. The aluminium fan frame has three connectors:

• One is RGB female connector,
  
  
• one is daisy chain male connector,
  
  
• one is daisy chain female connector
  
  Here's a picture of all three.
  
  The plastic fan frames have only two connectors:
  
  
• the daisy chain male connector,
  
  
• and the daisy chain female connector.
  
  Here's a picture of that.
  
  So basically the plastic fan frames cannot be directly connected to the motherboard RGB male connector. You'll need a separate adapter to connect them to the motherboard. Here's a link to the adapter. When I bought these fan frames, the cost of that adapter+plastic frame was more than the aluminium frame, so I just got one aluminium and 6 plastic. Hope that clears it up. :)
  
  >Edit: went and checked their price now, 1440/- for Aluminium ones and 740 for plastic 😐 Could you share some photos of the insides of your pc in your free time?
  
  So its definitely increased then. Sure, let me know which pictures you need exactly.

For now I use the controller and just set it to white (actually not a bad "white" for rbg) while I research if such an adapter is available. But the actual intention was of course to sync it with my Mainboard.

is this the Adapter that I want?
https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Adapter-Specified-Control-PH-CB_RGB4P/dp/B01BZIBJAK

The connector shown in the second picture corresponds exactly to my mysterious 4pin rgb male connector of my cooler. And the other (female) end of this adapter seem to be the standard rgb mainboard connector that I need.
so would this help?

They use a weird clip lock as seen into the picture. Phanteks offer an adapter which adapts to 4 pin is this the right header for 5050?: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01BZIBJAK/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520253500&sr=8-1-fkmr0&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=phanteks+to+5050+header

Hardware:

Cooler Master 90 degree MB 24 adapter
EVGA RTX Link
Heat shrink / cable sleeve

Wanted to share this as I literally just found out about it. I struggled with making my MB adapter “neat” but then found the CM 90 adapter and it’s so good. I cleared about 3 inches of cable from inside my case. If you must you are able to link 2 of these together and literally move the power cable almost to the back of the case. I purchased two but because I fit a 280 cooler where it wasn’t supposed to go prevents me from fitting. [Amazon Link](Cooler Master CMA-CEMB01XXBK1-GL... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HZ6B6R1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share)

EVGA link - moves the cables from in front and away from the main glass of the case and shifts the pins to the right side of the card. [Link](EVGA PowerLink, Support All... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQ1YEYH?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share)

The heat shrink / custom sleeve is cool and I did it at the same time. [heatshrink](100ft - 1 inch Flexo PET... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074GPHW6B?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share)

Hope this helps you like it helped me!

I think this EVGA powerlink probably could have been a quicker and easier solution: https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-PowerLink-Support-Founders-600-PL-2816-LR/dp/B01MQ1YEYH

May be wrong

Congrats either way, and epic build!!

You could try [This] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQ1YEYH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_htP1Ab726XAZ9) but check the compatibility on there website work on all evga cards but you have to check for other manufacturers

They are pretty flexible, actually. You can move them around quite a bit. I had them set up like you but I got tired of them resting against the door and wanted them a little more out of the way.

If you wanted to, you could at least fit a powerlink on your card and get those cables out of the way a bit more. Not bad for $10. I can't fit one, so I went with custom GPU cables that look a little nicer.

> there's no real space for the CPU power connector

I KNOW, RIGHT?

I had very similar issues getting the CPU connector in there. When I purchased custom braided cables, I included the CPU cable because they're a lot more flexible than the stock power supply cables. So that helped maneuver it in there.

It's technically not what you're looking for, but the EVGA power link is $10 on Amazon right now. It houses both connectors and looks decent enough. I certainly would not pay more than $10 though.

He’s using the evga power link.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQ1YEYH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5HRVCb6N0QK85

Can anyone recommend a right angle power adapter for video cards? I foolishly bought this one assuming it would fit my Gigabyte card but the connectors that go into the card are upside-down and not reversible.

EVGA powerlink

​

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-PowerLink-Support-Founders-600-PL-2816-LR/dp/B01MQ1YEYH/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=EVGA+GPU+CABLE&qid=1554526985&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Powerlink is $19.99 with free prime shipping on Amazon. What's the best you can do on it?

It might be sagging slightly. No problem m8. I have the same card and just got this from Amazon to make it look better.

Check this out too. Makes the cables look nicer :)

https://www.amazon.com/LINKUP-Internal-Motherboard-Converter-Adapter/dp/B07WG8ZJ41/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=usb+c+header&qid=1571247130&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFHU1VYMVU4QjFQR1EmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTJKWlAwRDBOUU5KTFkmZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDUwNzQ5NE8zME9MS09CU0dWRCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX3NlYXJjaF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

I asked about this in another thread and got this link to a $25 adapter that will solve the problem:

https://www.amazon.com/LINKUP-Internal-Motherboard-Converter-Adapter/dp/B07WG8ZJ41/ref=sr_1_19

You can adapt it to a normal USB3 header with one of these

I have no idea if it will be the same speed/power but at least it will work

Something like this might work if you have the old USB 3.0 board header.

If the case has got the new A Key motherboard connector then you'll need to use something like this to connect it.

I had the same issue with the h210. You have to buy one of these adapters. LINKUP USB 3.0 (3.1 Gen 2) Internal IDC 20 Pin Motherboard Header to A-Key 20 Pin Female Header Active Converter for Type C Panel Mount Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WG8ZJ41/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2dg3DbJ86EQ81

To make it go from usb 3.0 to USB 3.0 gen 2.

may i ask how if there are seperate cables for each usb port on the case?

​

Also, because the NZXT H210 has a usb c port, i have to use this adapter( https://www.amazon.com/LINKUP-Internal-Motherboard-Converter-Adapter/dp/B07WG8ZJ41 ) as i have been told. Will i still be able to connect both usb 3.1 cables?

sorry if this is dumb question :P

Thanks. I just went down the rabbit hold of USB naming conventions. I might stick with the Tomahawk Max and use this adapter.

that's exactly my dilemma (H210 and mini-itx mobo with single 3.0 header)....i would need the adapter that OP referenced ($25), a splitter for both cables ($20), and probably a right angle adapter ($5) to hide that gross looking splitter. so it would take about $50 just to get that front port working. smh.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07WG8ZJ41?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

There are adapters that will turn a 3.0 header into a type C/3.1 gen 2 header. This one will give you a type C header with 3.0 speeds. This one will give you full 3.1 Gen 2 speeds (at double the price). I believe there's also PCIe cards that will provide a header but they're not much cheaper, and you'll of course need to make sure that your cable can reach that far back.

Up to you whether spending an extra $25-50 for one usb C port is worth it.

Was thinking into something like this
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Port-Internal-Controller-HB-INTR/dp/B0794V75LB

Plus https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WG8ZJ41/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_oRFYDbA7545N5

Not sure if it would work or if it's even worth it...

other than "not using the front panel USB-C" you can look for a different board? Or those other cases if you don't want dead ports.

You can also use an active header adapter, but I think by the time you're spending another $25, you'd just be better off with a higher-end board. https://www.amazon.com/LINKUP-Internal-Motherboard-Converter-Adapter/dp/B07WG8ZJ41/keywords=usb+c+header+adapter

Looking at the manual, I see there's a USB type 3 header at the bottom right corner of the motherboard, but I don't see one for the 3.1 gen 2 header the case wants.
There are adapters you can get that should allow it to work, but you won't get the maximum possible speed out of it. Here's one from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WG8ZJ41/

Edit: the cable from the front panel looks like this, right? https://linustechtips.com/main/uploads/monthly_2018_07/image.png.cbfb5d2faf80198ec52145639ef23a21.png

You'll need this

see Amazon LINKUP 3.0 header adapter

Hey man, I was in the exact situation as you a few years ago - I decided on getting the 6's even though it meant I could not afford a nice audio interface like the one linked above. Instead as a temporary solution, I used a 1/8" to stereo RCA output like this one. That setup never once gave me a problem (Ableton + Macbook).

Sure it was a short term hit on the audio quality until I could afford a proper interface but in five years I have never once regretted choosing the 6's over the 5's.

You should also consider other factors before choosing either speaker: size - if you're thinking of moving soon the 6's can be a hassle, and volume - I was consistently written up on noise violations living in a dorm freshman year while playing on low output levels. I'm sure there are others but it's late and beer.

Both are good speakers - everyone's situation is unique but with that cheap cable, it seems neither solution is out of reach for you OP.

edit : words

TL;DR - There are CHEAP non-audio interface solutions out there - it's worth investing in good monitors.

like this, right? http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CMR206-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B000068O33

Hooking up the computer to the stereo is easy, you'll need something like this https://smile.amazon.com/Hosa-CMR-206-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B000068O33?sa-no-redirect=1

As for controlling it, you may find something like flask is easier, depending on what you're using to control it. What's your hub and home automation setup look like?

Okay, yeah the mixer will almost assuredly be nearby the PC so 1/8" to dual RCA it is!

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMR-206-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B000068O33

Thanks a bunch! I clearly over-complicated the analog conversion in my head.

Your PC and your Macbook each have a line-level analog output that can go directly to your receiver. The output may be labelled "headphones" or "line out". Get two cables like this and run them into an AUX or TAPE IN input on the back of your receiver. Just use the receiver "Input" knob to select the one you want to hear.

Just get any normal preamp/receiver with different inputs on the back. You can run out of the speaker jacks from both computers into the preamp/receiver in two separate channels. Then on the preamp/receiver you can choose between the two inputs to determine which audio gets sent to your speakers! You will most likely need a 1/8 inch to RCA cable to make the connection from each computer to the preamp/receiver of your choice. Something like this will do just fine: http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CMR206-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B000068O33

You should be able to. Go here to get the manual. On page 11 it shows how to connect a MD (MiniDisk) to it. Use a cable like this and plug it into the MD input.

You need to buy a cable like this to connect to the headphone output of your phone and connect the red white/black side to the "tape in" inputs on your receiver. Then select "tape" as the input on the receiver and you should be good to go.

Hosa CMR-206 3.5 mm TRS to Dual RCA Stereo Breakout Cable, 6 feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O33/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SszizbW3H0E47

Well, the main feature is the DAC, which takes the information from your computer and turns it into something an amplifier can use. A DAC is usually 100 bucks by itself, and this one happens to have a 50W amp built into it, which is very convenient. If you wanted to go cheaper you could go with a cheap pair of powered computer speakers.

Edit: You could also get this cable and use it to go from the headphone out on your computer to your pa, as long as it has an RCA tape in somewhere. If your PA isn't powered, you'd still need an amplifier to power the speakers.

You could make it work but you would have to split the signal going into the amp.

Something like this from the source. The male RCA's would go to the SMSL SA-36.

The something like this to the subwoofer in.

Not ideal by any stretch but doable.

OK, the headphone amp has RCA inputs -- you could connect it to your mixers headphone jack using a cable like this

I would start with the headphone volume adjusted low

First, I know you said you don't care about bass all that much, but for EDM, bass impact on the HD598 is just about nonexistant. It rolls off slightly less in the sub-bass (the rumbling part), but it also has a lot less mid-bass (the "punches") than your current headphones. Should be great for some classic rock and gaming, though. Also, the HD558 is quite similar to the HD598 (same driver, different damping / housing) and $50 cheaper. In graph form: http://graphs.headphone.com/graphCompare.php?graphType=0&graphID[]=3301&graphID[]=2851&graphID[]=2861&scale=20

In terms of your question - I think the other suggestion for a Fulla 2 is a good idea to save some money. It has more power than you need now (in fact, you probably don't really need a separate amp to drive either headphone). The Fulla 2 has both a fixed and a variable line out, and it mutes the line out if you plug headphones in. You would probably need a cable like this https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMR-206-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B000068O33 as well as a 1/4 to 1/8 inch adapter.

Fiio e10k is also not a bad option, but only has a fixed line out (and less power than the Fulla 2, not that it matters in your case).

You could use this to connect the "tape out" on the mixer. Or you might be able to go through the main outputs on the back with dual XLR to eighth inch or dual quarter inch to eighth inch.

Alright, didn't check the manuals, but based on your pictures, you should just need 3 1/8" to dual RCA cables like these:

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CMR206-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B000068O33

The 1/8" sides would be plugged into your subwoofer, and the RCAs into the outputs of the receiver, which are all immediately on the left of the speaker outputs.

Alternatively, you can skip one step and buy just one cable: http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CMR206-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B000068O33/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1345386826&sr=1-2&keywords=1%2F8+rca+adapter

Here's the first option simplified a bit:

One of these stereo 1/8" splitter (Y) cables.

Two of these 1/8" to RCA cables. Be sure to choose the correct length.

Plug the Y cable into your PC speaker output, the other two connect to it and then to your speakers.

Sound card 1/8th TRS jack (headphone jack) to RCA cable. Go to AUX IN or CD IN on your receiver. Very simple. Just makes sure Source on the amp is set to AUX or CD or whatever input you're using.

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CMR206-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B000068O33

Okay... so I just need to repeat these are probably not the best options... #1 is probably the worst option and may or may not work... and I can't guarantee you will get the best sound quality out of either but here ya go:

(1) If you only have a 1/4 or 1/8 out, you can run a cable with two male connectors from the stereo to your computer's mic input. They would either be a 1/4 to 1/8 cable or a 1/8 to 1/8 cable.

(2) For RCA output, you can a RCA to 1/8 cable into the computer mic input or run a regular RCA cord with this RCA to 1/8 adapter.

None of this is ideal, but for under $10 it might be worth giving it a try and messing around with it if you have the time and patience. Hope this helps. If none of this works... sorry...

At the very least you're gonna need an 1/8 to RCA cable to plug into your turntable or tape deck and then plug into your mic jack. This isn't ideal because the sound quality isn't going to be the greatest doing it this way but if your sound is lofi anyway it's not really going to matter, just remember you can always bump your sample quality down after the fact but not up when sampling.

Like everyone else has said though, an audio interface is the way to go. You could get a soundcard if you were so inclined but I think just getting a USB interface is easier plus they're way more portable and you can use em on your desktop or laptop. I've got a few friends that use the Focusrite Scarlett and they say good things about it, I myself use an old Line 6 POD for my sampling and output to my deck and it does the trick.

Ah, that's a little different from what I thought you meant. I don't see a problem with that, as I do the same thing (computer line out to amp, no DAC).

As far as cords go, you'll just need an 1/8" stereo to stereo RCA cord. $5. Running that into any input on your amp other than Phono should be fine. If you're still having problems, I'd suspect it's the amp.

Here's what I'm looking to buy to upgrade my computer speakers. I'm a complete noob. is there anything missing? any obvious slight upgrade ~$50+?
do I need banana plugs?

RCA stereo breakout cable

Lepy LP-2020A

Speaker cable

Micca MB42X

Well then go buy a stereo RCA (the white and red) to 1/8" cable at your preferred length lil nigga.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000068O33/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1451437864&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=rca+to+1+8+inch&dpPl=1&dpID=31Y7xFVecmL&ref=plSrch

if your summing up all the tracks in your mixer and you want to keep it simple and just record the stereo mix, i'd go for the tascam. i've got an olympus ls11, which is basically the same design. it's super simple and sounds great. i love recording this way, i only have to bring a computer into the equation for an occasional bit of normalization and long term archiving.

get you one of these cables and you're good to go.

Use an adapter like this and a standard optical audio cable to connect your MBP up to your digital audio amplifier.

https://www.amazon.com/Recoton-Fiber-Optic-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B0002MQGRM

Thanks for the reply!

So, what you're saying is that using the E12 in the "default" way (dt770 to E12 input jack, with included male-to-male 3.5mm into E12 output jack and MacBook/iPhone's input jack) is "double amping"? Do you think using a "line out" is absolutely necessary, or would it increase sound quality by only a little bit?

If I used what you suggested for the MacBook, how would I plug the Optical end into the MacBook? Would I need this?

Thanks, I appreciate it!

I think this would force it to stay on. You'd have to leave it plugged in. I can't verify this though.

It will generally work fine to have a little network extension overlap on the same SSID for stationary devices and machines that don't stream content regularly, but for best results from Airplay the fewer the access points the better. Airplay streaming doesn't handle devices transitioning APs very well, and nearly always drop the stream when the source or target device migrate from one access point to another. You can fix this by building a managed wifi deployment with a WLAN controller and fancy APs that manage connections better, but that's way outside the scope of the OP's needs.


You're likely not noticing issues because you're streaming from a generally fixed location source device (desktop / laptop running iTunes) to a fixed location endpoint (Airport Express). If you start streaming music to your Airport Express from an iPhone, iPad, iPod, or a laptop you're carrying and move around your house, you'll likely experience streaming drops and inconsistent audio performance.

Oh, and if you'd like to use any of your much more common toslink-connector optical cables, a 1/8" optical adapter can be had on amazon for $2.04

https://www.amazon.com/Recoton-Fiber-Optic-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B0002MQGRM something like that with another adapter maybe. There are headsets that use the optical port as well. My old Turtle beaches did.

The new SMSL AD18 has two optical inputs, one of them is 3.5mm style that you need an adapter, I will link at the bottom.
 
An additional option that you may consider, put a SoundBlaster Recon 3D or SoundBlaster Z sound card in your PC. it has an optical input and an output, and can pass your PS4 through to the DAC/AMP, as well as mix PS4 and PC sound to play both simultaneously. I use this so I can use PC to watch netflix/twitch or play music while I game on xbox.
 
www.amazon.com/dp/B00T8HWV62 for toslink to mini toslink if you want a specific cable
www.amazon.com/dp/B0002MQGRM if you want to use the adapter and a regular optical cable
www.amazon.com/dp/B01MY96MKC SMSL AD18 DAC AMP

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-0DR8F-00DR8F-Creative-Labs-Sound-Blaster-SB1350-Recon3D-5-1-THX-Sound-Card/381776420498

Well since there probably aren't any surround drivers for my headset anyway it looks like I'll be using something like this and use my regular speakers.

Edit: I'll have to use something like you probably, don't think the FireTV supports the kind of plug I posted a link to :/

Toslink-Adapter

SANOXY-Analog-Digital

You'll either need a toslink to mini toslink adapter or a cable that has one of each.

http://www.amazon.com/Recoton-Fiber-Optic-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B0002MQGRM
that's the same way Apple works

"if I output with mini toslink, is the sound still being run thru the DAC in my macbook?"

No. The DAC in the HK will be used.

Toslink is the standard used for optical digital connections in consumer electronics. the HK AVR 1565 appears to have two optical digital inputs, which will accept standard toslink cables.

http://g-ec2.images-amazon.com/images/G/01/electronics/detail-page2/B00548SKH8_back.jpg

Mini TOSLINK is a variant of the connector that is shaped like a 3.5mm audio plug. The 3.5mm audio jack most Macbooks has both analog contacts and an optical output. Therefore you can plug an optical cable, with a mini TOSLINK connector, into the Macbook's audio output jack.

This cable will connect a Macbook to the HK.

http://www.amazon.com/6ft-Toslink-Mini-Cable/dp/B000FMXKC8


Or you can use a standard TOSLINK cable with an adaptor like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Recoton-Fiber-Optic-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B0002MQGRM/ref=pd_bxgy_pc_img_y


This page describes the audio connections found on most Macs.

http://support.apple.com/kb/ht4806

Do you have an adapter and do you have it connected to a 5.1 or 7.1 receiver?

A suitable adapter should be something like this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002MQGRM/

I'm guessing you need to connect it before something happens. Maybe you'll have to change some settings in OS X as well.

Here's the cable I have in 1, 2, and 3 meter lengths:

http://www.amazon.com/C2G-27016-Velocity-Toslink---Optical/dp/B0002JFN1A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381100813&sr=8-1&keywords=3.5mm+to+optical

Here's just a converter if you already have an optical cable:

http://www.amazon.com/Recoton-Fiber-Optic-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B0002MQGRM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1381100813&sr=8-2&keywords=3.5mm+to+optical

Here's a fancy one if you want that:

http://www.amazon.com/Micca-Premium-Optical-Digital-Toslink-/dp/B0088IBRJE/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1381100813&sr=8-8&keywords=3.5mm+to+optical

Your iMac may support optical audio supporting 5.1. Which iMac do you have?

If so, the optical jack is combined with the 3.5mm stereo analog line level / headphone jack. To use this you'll need an an 3.5mm mini optical to toslink adapter like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002MQGRM?pc_redir=1396793440&robot_redir=1. Then you'd need an optical cable and a 5.1 system with optical input.

I know its possible to split the audio and video. Would I be able to plug this into my computer http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-40645-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B000J1H4VI/ref=pd_sim_e_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=06N2HKNHQW9FXK04DAMX and where would I plug it to send the sound out of the sound system?

Yep. Here's a link to one. If you don't have a long enough AV cable for the adapter, something like this or even this should also work dandy.

There's nothing worse than having to sit 3 feet from the TV because your cord's too short.

This will work along with your A/V cables that came with the PS3. As far as how to connect it, it depends on what kind of speakers you have. You may have to use one of these in order to complete the connection from your speaker's male 3.5mm to the male end of the 3.5mm coming from the adapter mentioned before. You can use the video from the HDMI and audio from the A/V connection simultaneously.

You would want to use the composite cables that came with ps3.

http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-40645-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B000J1H4VI/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1372095739&sr=8-9&keywords=rca+to+3.5mm

using that you can get the audio to a 3.5mm jack
http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E5-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B001P9EQH8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1372095704&sr=8-2&keywords=Fiio+amp
http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E11-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0053KWDES/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1372095704&sr=8-4&keywords=Fiio+amp

get yourself and amplifier so you can control volume.
plug the RCA->3.5mm into the amplifier input and plug anything you want as the output be it speakers or headphones.

This is what i use to get my HD650s working with my ps3 :D. It works quite nicely

You don't have the red/white RCA but you probably have a 3.5mm jack on the monitor. Get this...

http://www.amazon.com/Cables-Go-Stereo-Female-Adapter/dp/B000J1H4VI/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1321466088&sr=8-6


For the VGA you'll want something similar to these...

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=vga+switch&x=0&y=0

This adapter is all you should need to record audio to the microphone jack of your computer.

My Dad has a Bose iPod dock he hooked straight into his DirecTV box using one of these. It works great & you can just use the red & white RCA cables for any component (we switched it over to his blu-ray player last night to watch some BSG).

There's a very simple and cheap, entirely passive two-step adapter solution I'm using myself:

First, you need an RCA to 3.5mm adapter, one of these (although you can find it for cents if you're looking around a bit). This adapter was originally meant to go the other direction, but we want the opposite, so we need a 3.5mm double female coupler.

So, instead of plugging the audio into the converter, it goes into the above adapter. Plug your speakers or headphones into the other end of the coupler and you're done.

If you have a console like the PS2, Gamecube, Wii or original Xbox, I would recommend not using a composite to HDMI adapter, but instead a component to HDMI adapter. As the name implies, the image signal gets split into three different color channels via three separate wires, which results in much higher image quality and stability. These cables are more expensive, as are converters, but the difference is substantial.

With systems like the SNES or older, I can not recommend a simple HDMI converter, since the types of signals these systems produce are not suited to simple analog to digital conversion. I wrote a bit about this here, if you're interested. I go into much further detail in some replies.

Almost all converters introduce additional lag, but there are pricey ones that reduce the delay to almost nothing. What's your budget and which systems are you trying to connect to your monitor?

well if you dont want to make custom cables or cut and solder the original one, the easiest way would be buying a 3.5mm male to 2 rca males cable, and then a 2 rca female to 3.5mm male adapter / cable and swap the rca cables.

EDIT: Those cables will give you the fix for whatever you want to connect to it. But if you want to only connect a windows PC to it, you can use voicemeeter, or voicemeeter banana, its a virtual mixer and it can swap the L+R signals in the output, there is a button that says mono, click it 2 times and the icon should change to lines swapped, then just leave it like that

There we go. well basically buy an adapter.


EDIT: This one is cheaper

Back in the day I bought one of These

one of these

and one of these

Connects any standard headphones directly to the xbox RCA output

Okay, I found a solution after a bit of research. A RCA Audio Piggyback Cable, 2 RCA Male to 2 RCA Male + RCA Female Piggyback + 3.5mm Stereo Male To Dual RCA Female Audio Adapter + volume control attenuator will solve the problem, for about $20 to $30.

Also found this

hdmi won't matter, this is using the normal output. you won't be able to tell the difference if there even is any.

this is the cable you will need http://www.amazon.com/SANOXY-Premium-Digital-Microsoft-equipment/dp/B0030CGMAC/ref=sr_1_1?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1345857433&sr=8-1&keywords=xbox+vga+cable

then for the audio you will need an rca to micro plug adapter
something like this http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Audio-Cable-Splitter-1-Mini/dp/B00004Z5CP/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1345857518&sr=1-1&keywords=rca+to+3.5mm with these to bridge the cable http://www.amazon.com/Female-to-3-RCA-Coupler/dp/B002B8WVVU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1345857578&sr=1-1&keywords=rca+female+to+female



or you could use something like this http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-Go-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B000J1H4VI/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1345857518&sr=1-5&keywords=rca+to+3.5mm

i would then run the 3.5mm cable through the input on my computers soundcard and have windows listen to that and output through my default output. that way I could control the sound with my keyboard. since I had 2 monitors, and the one I was using had a dvi and vga input, I would just switch the input in the monitor settings (on the actual monitor, not within windows) and it would display the game on my main monitor and I could still use my second monitor to look things up on my computer. now since I have DaS for PC, I don't need to do that anymore, just running it in windowed mode :D

The first one you mentioned seems to only have Digital Audio out (S/PDIF), which is not like the analog 3.5mm connection that is usually used, but a digital connection that is usually paired with a Stereo or Surround Sound system.

There are, however, converters that can take the digital signal and turn it back into Analog (they simulate such Stereo or Surround sound system) so that you can use it with your headset.

The Visio one with the 3.5mm headset connection is pure analog with no need for converters other than a simple cable that splits it into RCA for your Sennheiser.

If you have any more questions, just ask!

You can use something like this to extend your current cable.
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-A-Male-A-Female-Extension-Meters/dp/B001TH7GUU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394731413&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+extension

youve probably found pretty much the best thing for that price. most of the stuff at that will be complete crap but at you cant go wrong with logitech.
as for a usb extension this one should do
I joined the master race last year and so far its been great so have fun in your adventures.

>Why? It just seems more practical to tell someone they need a monitor, instead of them buying all the PC parts for a desktop and then not knowing what to do next. The "same price" comparison really only works for a HTPC because a price of a TV cancels out on both sides since both can be used.

They dont know how to use the free hdmi cable to plug it into a tv? Whut....


>Then long cords. My couch is 10ft. away from my TV.

Yeah sure

Here ya go

Splitter too for anything else you need

$8 in addition. Price of a TV doesnt cancel out anything for me, most peasants are perfectly willing to drop (or already have) $500+ for a tv, which if budgeted correctly can mean an even faster pc. For instance if someone has a $1000 budget total for a gaming system and a television, $500 for ps4 (online and a game) and $500 for a 50 inch 1080p tv can easily be turned into a $600 PC and $400 45 inch tv etc. Same cannot be said for a console budget, you cannot spend more and get more with a console

Well you have two options. Put your PC close to the TV and get a USB extension cable or put your PC close to you and get a longer hdmi cable.

Or get a wireless keyboard/mouse, that's option 3.

They are

Use a USB extension cable, like this, and clip a ferrite choke on each end. Route the USB such that it doesn't cross, or ideally, come anywhere near any power cords or transformers, and place the dongle as far away from the PC as you can.

It'll help a bit, but it's still a $15 piece of hardware, and as such, won't be perfect.

USB Hubs will indeed cause some input lag. I wouldn't use them for Mouse/Keyboard as slapdashbr said. Instead, use THESE extenders from Amazon for your mouse/keyboard. As long as the USB extender isn't ridiculously long, you shouldn't need a powered extender.

You could always buy a really long HDMI cable and connect your PC to your TV (that's what I do, I have a 15 meters HDMI cable and a USB extension to use my controller when watching TV or playing games)

ahem


http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics--Male--Female-Extension-Cable/dp/B001TH7GUU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1416895375&sr=1-1&keywords=amazon+basics+usb+extension

I used the pogo with usb extender cable and love it. It's connected to the nexus 10 charger and it charges faster AND while screen is on.

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-A-Male-A-Female-Extension-Meters/dp/B001TH7GUU

Though that would work my extender is only 4'.

lol at the way you started this just bought my wife! That being said here is a cheap KB: http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-920-002478-Keyboard-K120/dp/B003ELVLKU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1420276325&sr=8-3&keywords=keyboard

and mouse: http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-Button-Wired-Mouse-Black/dp/B005EJH6RW/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1420276368&sr=1-1&keywords=mouse


its no more then 20$ an will easily fit your wifes needs. If the cables are not long enough to reach your T.V. you can always get one of these: http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-A-Male-A-Female-Extension-Cable/dp/B001TH7GUU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420276446&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+extender

You can always get a USB extender.

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-A-Male-A-Female-Extension-Meters/dp/B001TH7GUU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1373925227&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+extension+cable

$6 for a 10 foot extension cable.

LMAO a cable for my radio that costs 1/3 of the radio's original price. Damn Pioneer, that's not cool.

Just found this which is even more LOLable when you cna get this for $6 and use your existing micro USB cable.

For the tubing? I was just figuring some typical hose/tubing:

a b c d e f

or electrical wiring for thinner frames:

a b c d e f

It makes me cringe seeing them try to hold a laptop up to the wall. One of these would help.

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Extension-Cable--Male--Female/dp/B001TH7GUU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426389038&sr=8-1&keywords=amazon+usb+extension

I'd like to recommend these.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001TH7GUU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1405881417&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40

it's just a usb extender. I have 4, and I've had them for well over a year. since they're just usb extenders, you can use them for pretty much anything. I use them for my phone, iPad, ds4, and a lot more. they're very good quality.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001TH7GUU/ref=mp_s_a_1?pi=75x71&qid=1346110409&sr=8-1

ok, so it has the RF out of the stari, correct? you have 2 options, you can find an old school TV/Computer switch http://www.bestronusa.com/images_products/TV-311.jpg

OR, you can do what i did. I don't use Coaxial in for anything on my gaming TV, aside from my NES toploader. I got a RF to coaxial adapter, and get a really clean looking signal out of my Atari 2600. http://vintagegamingandmore.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/IMG_3748-1024x766.jpg

this seems like a good bet, though i'm sure you can find one pretty cheap at a radio shack if you still have one locally.

https://www.amazon.com/Atari-2600-Coaxial-Plug-Female-Adapter/dp/B0028MXOF6

My connector was a rf switch box. Instead I used a adapter that converts rf to coax. That could be my issue too.


https://www.amazon.com/Coaxial-Female-Adapter-not-machine-specific/dp/B0028MXOF6

Or this thing, depending on your setup.

I just got an RF Cable and got this

You need to get yourself one of these

Here’s the one I got

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0028MXOF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_brh3BbXDP1QRP

i don't have the box that came with the pong console, so i wanted something that i can plug it into than that goes straight to the coaxial: http://www.amazon.com/Atari-2600-Coaxial-Plug-Female-Adapter/dp/B0028MXOF6

Here's what I was using. May not be the exact same one. Takes the place of the block switch. I remember from when I was a kid there was an adapter that went on the clamps to go to coax. But, my atari had one of those c clamps guys missing which lead me to try one of these.

I use one of these https://www.amazon.com/Coaxial-Female-Adapter-not-machine-specific/dp/B0028MXOF6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1506569074&sr=8-3&keywords=Coax+connector+old+console To hook my c64 to my 60” Sony. Just remember to tune in channel 3 or 4 on your TV.

Pretty much what TeachingRetro said. Get a normal single av cable (the one I'm using was a stereo audio with red and white that I split apart to just be one cable) and plug one end into the console and the other end into an adapter like this. You can't use an auto switching rf adapter like what was on the NES.

This is it on Amazon. I got mine at Skycraft in Orlando.

So like this one?

When you say mini-HDMI, do you mean mini-DisplayPort? Because that monitor you have has a DisplayPort input on the back: https://pcmonitors.info/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/XL2730Z-ports.jpg

You should get a strait-through mini-DP to DP cable: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-32AWG-Mini-DisplayPort-Cable/dp/B0034X6SCY

Was using a DisplayPort to Mini DisplayPort cable not an option?

http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-32AWG-Mini-DisplayPort-Cable/dp/B0034X6SCY

http://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-32AWG-Cable-Plated-Connectors/dp/B0034X6SCY

is this what you are looking for? also i believe the hdmi would do fine.

The resolution won't be effected by the i/o port unless you're going from analog to digital, which you're not. The only things that matter are the max output resolution of the gpu and the ability of the monitor. you don't need to buy anything except a display port cable.

http://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-32AWG-Cable-Plated-Connectors/dp/B0034X6SCY

You're awesome.

More info: This is what gets stuck at low resolution: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=12-423-003

I think I'm going to try this one since it's cheaper, and people are saying it gets high resolutions. http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-32AWG-Mini-DisplayPort-Cable/dp/B0034X6SCY

So use this:
http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-32AWG-Mini-DisplayPort-Cable/dp/B0034X6SCY
?

I got this from Amazon. Kind of annoying to have to get it but it's not a big deal.

Wow...thanks so much for the reminder! Last time I had a DK2 and had to use up my HDMI port for it (which my 4K TV is usually plugged into) I was forced to use an HDMI to DVI cable that I had on hand for my TV which gave me like 720p or 1080p or something with some terrible looking scaling...

Just bought this to plug in my Vive: http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-32AWG-Mini-DisplayPort-Cable/dp/B0034X6SCY


$6 shipped and I'll have it Friday. I love Amazon.

Just get a normal DP monitor and plug it in with the right cable. You have an nVidia card so you want a gsync monitor.

Cable that converts:
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-32AWG-Mini-DisplayPort-Cable/dp/B0034X6SCY

I'm waiting on an order of this monitor from Acer.
I bought this monitor because it has USB-C support and I plan on upgrading to the new MacBook Pro some time in the future.

At the moment my MacBook Pro does not have USB-C, so my question is what is the best way to connect to this monitor (preferentially using it's USB hub functionality).
Should I use a Mini Display to Display port cable, like this one?
Or should I buy an adapter like this and connect over USB C? If I do this, is the power supplied by the monitor not going to damage the thunderbolt 2 port on my MacBook Pro?

Would this be correct?
http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-32AWG-Mini-DisplayPort-Cable/dp/B0034X6SCY

http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-32AWG-Mini-DisplayPort-Cable/dp/B0034X6SCY

This should do well.

1. I'm the only person in this sub that bothered to reply. You might want to try being marginally less of an ass, if you have the ability.
   
2. The only solution as of Jan 2015, is an Intel NUC featuring a MiniDisplayPort (like one of these ) and a MDP-->Dual-DVI adapter (like one of these ). I've searched for alternatives, and there's simply nothing in the landscape.
   
   The good news is, if you can get a device featuring MDP and a display featuring DisplayPort, you can use one of these to drive it, without needing an active adapter. It's cheaper and more reliable than any of the active adapters I've been able to find (Monoprice's MDP-->Dual-Link active adapter failed me within a year).

You can afford IPS on that, here are a few options:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LU0GJQS/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F6V6TES/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZJJTWB/

Bearing in mind if the monitor doesn't have DVI you can just use a cable or an adapter.

DVI to HDMI female converter (if using an HDMI cable, put this on the back of the monitor [yes it will work backwards]) $2.00 on Amazon Here

Or conversly a DVI to HDMI male converter (for going out of the video card), a few bucks on Amazon Here

Displayport to DVI like $10 bucks or so on Amazon Here

https://www.amazon.com/Importer520-Plated-Female-DVI-D-Adapter/dp/B0035B4LJM/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1467660237&sr=1-5&keywords=dvi+to+hdmi+adapter

Oh, so your monitor lacks DVI or HDMI inputs?

You could also pick up an adapter that allows you to plug HDMI into DVI.

edit: posted wrong adapter. This is probably closer to what you need http://www.amazon.com/Importer520-Plated-Female-DVI-D-Adapter/dp/B0035B4LJM/ref=pd_cp_e_1

So do you suggest getting this and this?

yeah it is very possible. All modern monitors usually have an HDMI input so you just plug your xbox into that. However,if you have an older monitor, it may have a DVI input which looks like this: http://www.plus-america.com/images/pdetail/pd_dvi_detail.gif. If so, then you need an HDMI to DVI cable. http://www.amazon.com/Importer520-Plated-Female-DVI-D-Adapter/dp/B0035B4LJM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1405601547&sr=8-4&keywords=hdmi+to+dvi. If your monitor is even older, it may have VGA input that looks like this: http://ets.berkeley.edu/sites/default/files/images/vga_in.jpg. Then you would need to get your xbox a vga cable. https://www.google.com/shopping/product/18233863344648484818?q=xbox+vga+cable&es_sm=122&biw=2133&bih=1105&ei=ccfHU6zGJ4TjoAS57IDICw&ved=0CKsEEKYrMAA

All those things apply to xbox 360. I dont think xbox one has a vga cable for it. but the dvi to hdmi should work.

seems like a whole bunch of flopping, Why are you going DVI to VGA to HDMI which on one display ends up DVI again?

I would look into a DVI Splitter so you go to DVI then spliter and DVI to monitor and on the other DVI convert to hdmi for tv.

You could get an HDMI to DVI adapter for your TV then have the Vive use the HDMI port. Presuming whatever card you have has an DVI port on it.

Something like...
http://www.amazon.com/Importer520-Plated-Female-DVI-D-Adapter/dp/B0035B4LJM/ref=pd_sim_23_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=51PdaaTE3UL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=16N0WSM87BSC2VJFKKN0

i would rather put the adapter on the TV than the HMD(including DisplayPort cable to the breakout box) it may not make a difference but would make me feel better.

DVI to HDMI cables would work fine or even just a header adapter, especially when you can get sound out of another source like the 3.5mm jack on the system.

http://www.amazon.com/Importer520-Plated-Female-DVI-D-Adapter/dp/B0035B4LJM

Try with those. Unless you don't have HDMI on your other monitors which is weird nowadays

Dual Link DVI can handle 1080p/120hz/24bpp. It is only ~6gbit of data while the interface can handle up to 8gbit. HDMI 1.4 can handle this as well, as per HDMI 1.4 spec.

All you need is an adapter from HDMI 1.4 (or 2.0) to DP or DVI. All of these connection types can handle 1080p/120hz/24bpp.

You can use something like this adapter

I have a crash cart bag handy for random issues

• Bag: (believe it or not) Universal Transporter for Nintendo DS
  
  
• Monitor: Lilliput 7" USB Monitor
  
  
• Keyboard/Mouse: Pro Mini USB wireless keyboard/touchpad
  
  
• Wireless: TP-LINK wireless usb adapter
  
  Adapters:
  
  
• DVI over cat5
  
  
• IDE SATA to USB
  
  
• Micro SD to USB with multiple cards
  
  
• Solar usb charger keyring
  
  
• HDMI 2 in 1 adapter
  
  
• DVI male to HDMI female
  
  
• DVI male to VGA female
  
  
• Displayport to DVI female
  
  
• DVI female to HDMI male
  
  
• USB hub
  
  
• Retractable RJ11/RJ45 cable
  
  And don't forget at least 1 tiny led flashlight :)
  

Ah, I thought that port was micro USB 3.0, not MHL. I read about it (MHL) but it didn't look like the same port.

What do you guys think of this - http://www.amazon.com/MAXAH%C2%AE-Micro-Adapter-Samsung-Galaxy/dp/B00DZJSAVY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419115409&sr=8-1&keywords=note+3+MHL+adapter ?

What I'm unsure of, is since this is being plugged into an HDMI to DVI converter ( http://www.amazon.com/Importer520-Plated-Female-DVI-D-Adapter/dp/B0035B4LJM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419115526&sr=8-1&keywords=HDMI+female+to+DVI+male ) if it would still produce a decent picture.

Don't do that, adapters are super cheap. I use one of these on my DVI monitor just so I don't have to fool with crappy DVI connectors.

here you go

Yeah, that's actually been one of my hesitations to get an rPi; I don't know what I would plug it into, because I would prefer to work with a higher resolution than a regular TV, but don't have any easy-access hdmi enabled tv to try...

You could just get one of these, although I'm sure there are cheaper ones to be found.

Can you return the monitor? It's one of the worst 24" 144hz displays out now. I'd look into returning it and getting a ViewSonic XG2401 or a Samsung C24FG70.

But if you want to keep that monitor, let me see if I understand you correctly.

GPU is [THIS] (https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-Quieter-Graphics-04G-P4-2978-KR/dp/B00OSS0AG4)

GPU has 1 HDMI output, so you're using HDMI to the TV, and DVI with a converter to the monitor.

I'd propose doing the following. Run HDMI to the monitor, get a DVI-HDMI adapter (they're $2-$3), and run the DVI output to your TV. [Something like this.] (https://www.amazon.com/Importer520-Plated-Female-DVI-D-Adapter/dp/B0035B4LJM/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8)

I've been thinking of doing the same thing, except I have a triple monitor set up. I have a 670 4gb and two monitors use both DVI inputs, and there is one HDMI input, which I connected to my third monitors DVI port using a THIS. I then have my TV hooked up via HDMI port on my MOBO using its onboard video.

HOWEVER, now that I think about it, am I able to use the Display port and get a Display Port to DVI converter and use that on one of MY monitors, THEN just use the HDMI input on my GPU to hook up to my TV directly?

This one aint bad for it's price https://www.amazon.com/Importer520-Plated-Female-DVI-D-Adapter/dp/B0035B4LJM

Why HDMI? Any video card along with this $2.42 adaptor is an hdmi video card

http://www.amazon.com/Importer520-Plated-Female-DVI-D-Adapter/dp/B0035B4LJM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1381103072&sr=8-3&keywords=dvi+to+hdmi

You can get a passive DVI-HDMI adapter for only $3.00, or heck, you can even buy a 10-foot DVI-HDMI cable for $8.00.

Get a couple of these and hook them up DVI to HDMI.

Yeah the repeater is so cheap it is worth it to add it just to have it. Another possible solution is this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K0UDYLM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

or this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0035B4LJM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Because we are finding out the HDMI signal is weaker than the DVI and Display ports on a lot of graphics cards.

But like I said the repeater has made my extremely long cables work well I have consistently played for 2 hours now with no issues of any kind. Before the repeater the cable I linked to just didn't work at all... I had a black screen and my other cable I bought would work for a while then would drop the signal momentarily and come back on.

Personally I ordered all three of the options I presented and plan to test them all. Currently I am using what I presented to you first and want to use it for at least a couple days or until I have an issue if I find an issue I will move on to the next option and rinse and repeat. But as of now I am very confident the repeater is the way to go.

So computer hdmi to dvi on TV? Something like this? http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0035B4LJM?cache=2d9ddde53bc028a18ec771a997552c08&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1408286156&sr=8-3#ref=mp_s_a_1_3

not sure where you live, but any store that sells hardware (target type of store) should also carry adapters.

looks like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0035B4LJM/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1500489267&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=hdmi+to+dvi+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=51FXN9iLYnL&ref=plSrch

keep in mind there's both DVI-I and DVI-D and that DVI-D does not fit DVI-I cables.

Personally I hate HDMI for their silly royalty stuff etc. DVI does everything HDMI does except audio (and why use built in monitor speakers?). Also, I can use Dual-Link DVI on my 3D monitor, without needing HDMI 2.0 support.

But yeah, you should be able to get a passive DVI/HDMI adapter. It's literally just attaching the cables right inside.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B0035B4LJM/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new&qid=1382398573&sr=8-1

Thanks for the replies. I called radioshack and they couldn't seem to tell me for sure. Also, I didn't mention before but my tablet is micro hdmi out, so I instead just (like minutes ago) ordered this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0035B4LJM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

As I already have the micro to full hdmi cable from using my previous converter.

I do appreciate the replies

Edit - I would think digital to digital should work both ways, but since they couldn't tell me, I won't buy their wicked overpriced adapter

My card has mini DisplayPort, and my monitor has DVI or HDMI.

I'm from Canada, so going with this one:

http://www.amazon.ca/Accell-B087B-006B-DisplayPort-Single-Link-Certified/dp/B004071ZXA


/EDIT: There's even cheaper ones here:

http://www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_odkw=mini+displayport+to+hdmi&_sop=15&_from=R40%7CR40&LH_BIN=1&LH_ItemCondition=1000&_osacat=32834&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR2.TRC1.A0.H0.Xactive+mini+displayport&_nkw=active+mini+displayport&_sacat=32834

Yes I have a 5850 with the same set up you desire. I have 2 22 DVI monitors and 1 19 inch monitor running on a vga cable with this adapter

It looks like you will want this DVI one.

Or this VGA one.

I know there used to be an issue with the power and the only way to get an active was to go VGA but from the descriptions I just read it looks like the DVI one should be just fine. Double check but either of those two products is what you need. I have an accell and I highly recommend it.

What active adapter are you using? I have two of these in conjunction with 2 passive DisplayPorts and I have no issues whatsoever.