Best audio & video power cables according to redditors

We found 1,627 Reddit comments discussing the best audio & video power cables. We ranked the 565 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top Reddit comments about Audio & Video Power Cables:

u/Chezzik · 143 pointsr/pics

And, although the extensions seem like a decent invention, they're not as great as just getting a power squid instead of a power strip.

Just last month, I ordered a number of these babies, and can't imagine how I lived without them:

EDIT: found one with a surge protector.

u/sleeplessone · 97 pointsr/pcmasterrace

That won't power your 4K OLED screen. You needed to buy one of these most likely.

u/vokegaf · 33 pointsr/mildlyinfuriating

Just buy a pack of short extension cables. End of problem.

Here's an example on Amazon.

Here's another.

Plug between the outlet and the wall wart, problem solved.

u/ratshack · 28 pointsr/Surface

meh, looks like it adds unnecessary bulk and complication.

A simpler $4 solution.

u/Doc_Lewis · 24 pointsr/buildapc

I have a nice cable clamp thingy, it makes sure my cables don't move around too much, and I always have enough slack to move the mouse, keyboard, and headphones around.

u/TheCasualJedi · 18 pointsr/malelivingspace

Hole in the wall and drop the cable down. Then put a wall grommet near your outlet.

Or one of the cable hiding plastic pieces, legrand makes a good one but make sure you use vinegar to remove them or else they’ll pull the paper off the drywall which Is a pain to fix.


Wall grommet

Edit: forgot to mention that if you’re putting a power cable in the wall you’ll need a different cable to actually run through the wall to keep it in code as it is a potential fire hazard. Here is a good kit that would fit for this example

u/_f0xx · 16 pointsr/HomeKit
u/scuffling · 11 pointsr/battlestations


|mobo|$290|AORUS Z390 Master|
|gpu|$700|AORUS 1080 ti Xtreme|
|ram|$360|G.Skill TridentZ RGB 4x8 3200 Mhz|
|cpu|$360|Intel i7 8700k 5Ghz OC|
|psu|$156|Corsair RM1000i Gold|
|nvme|$138|Samsung 970 EVO 500GB 2280 SSD|
|case|$150|Corsair Obsidian 500D|
|fans|$56|Corsair SP120|
|rgb fans|$110|Corsair LL120 RGB|
|cables|$105|CableMod PRO ModMesh C-Series RMi|
|240 rad|$66|EKWB EK-CoolStream SE 240 Slim Dual|
|360 rad|$90|EKWB EK-CoolStream PE 360 Dual|
|gpu wb|$165|EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Aorus RGB - Nickel|
|gpu bp|$47|EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Aorus Backplate - Nickel|
|cpu wb|$72|Phanteks Glacier C350i|
|kit|$60|Thermaltake PETG 16mm OD Bending Kit|
|pump|$100|EKWB EK-D5 PWM G2 Pump|
|res|$126|Watercool HEATKILLER Tube 200 D5|
|res top|$21|Watercool HEATKILLER Multiport Top 200|
|stand|$19|Watercool HEATKILLER Stand (Long)|
|riser|$27|Thermaltake PCI-E x16 3.0 Riser Cable 200mm|
|coolant|$56|XSPC EC Opaque White Coolant (qty 2)|
|fittings|$54|Thermaltake Pacific 90 Degree Adapters|
|fittings|$110|Thermaltake Pacific 16mm Compression Fittings (qty 2)|
|fittings|$26|Bitspower 5mm Male to Male 4-Pack|
|fittings|$20|Barrow Stop Plug 4-Pack|
|fittings|$15|Thermaltake Stop Plug 4-Pack|
|fittings|$14|XSPC Ball Valve|
|tubing|$40|Thermaltake 1000mm V-Tubler PETG 16mm 4-Pack|
|paste|$40|Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut|
|isopropyl|$18|NTE Isopropyl 99.9%|
|bottle|$11|1000ml fill bottle|
|foam|$13|1/4 inch thick foam insulation|
|heat gun|$25|Furno 300 Heat Gun|
|mouse pad|$26|Reflex Lab XXXL 36" x 18" Mouse Pad|
|chair|$175|Techni Mobili RTA-5004-BK Rta-5004-Bk Office Chair|
|arm pads|$18|Aloudy Ergonomic Memory Foam Arm Covers|
|monitor|$900|Acer Predator x34p Ultrawide QHD G-Sync|
|stand|$100|AmazonBasics Premium Single 25lb Monitor Stand|
|cable|$18|Accell DisplayPort 1.2 Cable 10ft|
|mouse|$50|Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum RGB|


u/Shock900 · 10 pointsr/gamingpc

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU | AMD FX-8350 4.0GHz 8-Core Processor | $194.67 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus 76.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | $33.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | MSI 990FXA-GD80V2 ATX AM3+ Motherboard | $171.13 @ Newegg
Memory | Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $58.99 @ Newegg
Memory | Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $58.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $94.32 @ Amazon
Video Card | Sapphire Radeon HD 7970 3GB Video Card | $289.99 @ Newegg
Case | Rosewill THOR V2-W ATX Full Tower Case | $155.98 @ Newegg
Power Supply | SeaSonic X Series 850W 80 PLUS Gold Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply | $176.98 @ Newegg
Optical Drive | Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer | $23.98 @ Newegg
Other| NZXT CB-8P 250mm Individually Sleeved 8-Pin Motherboard Power Extension Premium Cable| $8.65 @ Amazon
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available. | $1267.67
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-08-16 13:20 EDT-0400 |

u/Lost4468 · 10 pointsr/homelab

Don't cheap out on a PCIe riser like that. It's a very fast standard that's not designed to go very far and has pretty much no protection on it for long distances. That one you linked to is crap and will probably simply not work at all in a noise environment, and I'd be shocked if it ran at high speed. You can't just buy the cheapest cable when buying a PCIe riser, you're not buying a 1M 1080p HDMI cable, cheap ones will fail.

Looking that listing, there's already a bunch of people complaining that it doesn't work in the reviews. If you want to get one which will work you need to be spending $15+, e.g. here's a better one that's actually designed to be a PCIe riser (instead of your link which is just a Chinese company playing connect the connectors, which is also how you end up with absurd things like passive VGA->HDMI cables). I'm also not supporting any product, here's another one that looks well designed.

u/[deleted] · 8 pointsr/hardware

In that case I think you would be satisfied with an ISOBAR8ULTRA, ground loop isolator, and a couple power squids.

Use the ground loop isolator on the audio cable to your computer. Plug the speakers directly into one of the plugs on the surge supressor. The plugs on this supressor are arranged into four filter banks. Try different devices in plug paired with the speaker one and listen for any interference. This should take care of all your issues for under a hundred dollars and I don't think you will get much better performance without spending MUCH more.

edit: If your budget can stretch a bit more you may enjoy some of the features of the Digital Loggers Web Power Switch 4 or Ethernet Power Controller III. I can attest that they are quality products although they do not have any EMI/RFI filtering (which you may not need anyway).

u/CrazyMason · 8 pointsr/mildlyinfuriating
u/buying_furniture · 8 pointsr/RetroPie

Plugging it in turns it on. That's about it. You can get a power switch if you'd like to make is easier though. I've got a similar one to this, Works fine for me but might not provide enough power for some rigs.

Also, some folks just keep their pi on all the time which negates the need to power it up.

u/TechFreeze · 7 pointsr/mac

This is a PowerMac G5 built anywhere from 2003-2006, the most recent compatible Operating System is Mac OS X 10.5.X Leopard. The maximum compatible RAM is 4.0GB - 16GB DDR2 depending on model year and spec.

This is the cord you need if you’re in the US,

This cable can be found connected to pretty much all desktop computers, A lot of monitors, some gaming laptops and a bunch of random other appliances.

If not in the US the name of the connector that goes to the computer is IEC320C13. The one on the Mac is squared off but a standard plug will fit inside.

u/BDF-1838 · 7 pointsr/vertcoin

Have you built a computer before or are you willing to learn? Even with the one-click-miner there will be things that aren't plug-and-play.


If you don't care about being able to game on it, and make your own frame or build it in a shelf:



If you do want to game on it:

u/azspeedbullet · 6 pointsr/sysadmin

could it be a powersquid/power Splitter like these: or ?

i use them all of the them, reducing the need for a full length surge protector and prevents wall warts from taking up space.

u/Named_Bort · 6 pointsr/oddlysatisfying

or double down and get this

u/beaub05 · 6 pointsr/htpc

If it's anything like the last generation of NUCs you'll also need a mickey mouse power cord

u/Bill_Money · 6 pointsr/electricians

I'm a home theater installer myself (not a licensed electrician, just a DIY electrician) but yeah that violates NFPA/NEC

Correct way of doing things would have been using something like this or hire an electrician to have them place an outlet behind the tv.

The guy you got was a hack for sure alright

u/Gr8NonSequitur · 6 pointsr/gaming

> Not if you have to plug in more than one at the same time. Which I guarantee you'll need to at some point.

Good thing they sell 6" extension cords for just this reason.

u/Casper042 · 6 pointsr/RetroPie

Its overkill really.

Connections 5 and 6 on the Pi, the 2 pins on the 3rd row shown in the video, are all you need for power on.
There is no easy power off, thats what the script he has you download in the video does is setup a small background task to watch for someone pressing the button and then shut down gracefully.
If you shut down from the RetroPie menu, you don't technically need this. Its just a nice to have because you can shut down even with no screen/controller attached.

With that being said, you can take any momentary press switch with some standard pin connections and wire it to pins 5 and 6.
Recycle the Reset or Power button from an old PC Case. They have the female connections already attached.
Something like this:

EDIT: In case it wasn't obvious, Once that is attached, you can use the script mentioned if you want the button to also shut down. That script has NOTHING to do with his odd little Headphone jack power button.

u/EmilyPseu · 5 pointsr/typewriters

Was just coming to say this.

C2G/Cables to Go 03134 10ft 18 AWG Universal Power Cord (NEMA 5-15P to IEC320C13) Black

u/Omg3311 · 5 pointsr/CableManagement

You can buy an 8 pin extension like this to help it reach. Also you can tie the fan cables in a loop so they don't have a lot of slack.

u/dhiltonp · 5 pointsr/M43

I would either keep what you have and not buy a lens, or buy the 25mm f/1.7 with the intent of selling at least one of your lenses to offset the cost.

Here are a few things I have and use:

  • short plug - traveling with the long gray cable the charger comes with is a pain. This plug will work in the US, Thailand and China.
  • peak design capture - I wear a backpack when traveling, this makes my camera always accessible.
  • travel tripod - If you want a travel tripod and aren't sure that you'll use it, this is a decent choice. If you get this and the pd capture, you'll also want an arca-swiss compatible clamp.

    Other notes:

    You'll get about 3 hours of camera on-time. To get better battery life, turn off your camera when not taking pictures.

    To start, try to align 2 things in a picture: the subject of the photo, and having a pleasing/interesting background. A wide aperture can help with that, but isn't required.

    Try to get some practice taking pictures before you go, practice really helps.

    Starting out, try shooting in RAW+JPEG.

    Beyond that, have fun and take lots of pictures!
u/Jessie_James · 5 pointsr/assholedesign

Get some of these:

They are ugly for sure, but they work great.

u/Pikamander2 · 4 pointsr/self

What's wrong with a standard power cable?

u/Remo_253 · 4 pointsr/techsupport

Verify that the computer has a power cord running to an electrical outlet. The cord will look like this: Example.

Next, verify that the power supply, where that power cord plugs into the computer, isn't turned off. In this example it's the rocker switch to the left of where the power cord plugs in. This is different from the power switch on the front that starts the PC.

>Power buttons and switches are usually labeled with "I" and "O" symbols. The "I" represents power on and the "O" represents power off.


If there's a switch labeled 120/240, usually red in color, DO NOT CHANGE IT

u/FuckingBand · 4 pointsr/buildapc

I usedthis NZXT one before.

Kind of unneeded since the computer I used it on is my parents, it has no window and the only one who will ever know it's there is me.

u/FluffyUnicornButt55 · 4 pointsr/macsetups

I got it a couple of years ago so I don't know if you can still find the exact model. This is the closest thing I could find on amazon

u/ninjagowoo · 4 pointsr/fujifilm
  • the lensmate thumb grip (expensive but better than the cheap ones)
  • soft shutter release (get a variety pack to see which you like best, i prefer the concave ones)
  • screen protector
  • a right angle plug for the charger if you don't like the long cord

u/1986JamesHetfield · 4 pointsr/nashville

They sell kits that let you do it yourself.

"Simple installation: Do-it-yourself kit allows for neat and easy installation in under 30 minutes with no electrician or hard wiring involved."

u/vegeta897 · 4 pointsr/synthesizers

A couple typical power strips (with handy usb ports) and a rack-mounted 1U unit with sockets on the front and back. Also some of these to make more room for the wall warts.

u/fletcherhub3 · 4 pointsr/buildapcforme

This is what I would do. Credit goes to u/weetsy69 I just changed a few things.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU | Intel Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $349.89 @ B&H
CPU Cooler | Corsair H100i v2 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $96.99 @ Jet
Motherboard | ASRock Z270 Killer SLI/ac ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $143.98 @ Newegg
Memory | Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory | $175.99 @ Jet
Storage | Crucial MX300 750GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $169.99 @ Jet
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $69.99 @ B&H
Video Card | Zotac GeForce GTX 1080 8GB AMP! Edition Video Card | $580.66 @ B&H
Case | Corsair Crystal 460X RGB ATX Mid Tower Case | $139.99 @ B&H
Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $89.45 @ OutletPC
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $88.58 @ OutletPC
Case Fan | Corsair SP120 RGB High Performance 52.0 CFM 120mm Fan | $19.99 @ Newegg
Case Accessory | NZXT Hue+ LED Controller | $59.88 @ OutletPC
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $2010.38
| Mail-in rebates | -$25.00
| Total | $1985.38
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-01-07 01:47 EST-0500 |
Truthfully, use this if you want to go total RGB-tempered glass mode. Otherwise, go with the build mentioned before, but I think I have a few helpful tips.
I changed the case and gave it an exhaust fan, the same kind as the intake fans so the color can be synchronized. Also added the NZXT Hue+ for more LED lighting so the build lights up.
Power supply - I changed it to the G2 series of the specific PSU because reddit sometimes shames the NEX series for its build quality(?) If you don't want the Hue+ or case and if you have enough money, a set of white sleeved PSU cables would replace what comes with the PSU and look amazing as well. Maybe even add these to your order? ;)
I changed the motherboard because I think it looks amazing, has wifi, SLI support, and a touch of white. The white accents reflect LED color better which will make the build "pop" a bit more.
I changed the CPU cooler to an all-in-one liquid cooler that is mainly aesthetic, but the Dark Rock Pro 3 will do great if you don't want liquid cooling. One side note on this cooler is that the fans that come with it can be loud under load, you can buy replacements if they happen to irritate you.
The final thing that I remember changing is the SSD. For $10 more you can get 250 more GB than what the Samsung offers, while the Crucial is a very reliable and competitive drive as well. I hope this helps!

u/ldeveraux · 4 pointsr/linux
u/dstarr3 · 4 pointsr/DataHoarder

If you have another molex plug handy, you can get one of these adapters:

Outside of that, I think MacGyver'ing up a solution using only the plugs you've shown almost certainly would end in a fire.

u/KYS_B · 4 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/_mutelight_ · 3 pointsr/hometheater

Do you have a headphone jack on your TV? If so you could get something like this and run it from that into the Aux on that speaker.

Then for power, it looks like a standard power connector which you could use something like this.

Obviously since it is a single speaker, you won't get any L/R separation.

u/deepyell · 3 pointsr/whatisthisthing
u/spameggsspamandspam · 3 pointsr/buildapc
u/stufforstuff · 3 pointsr/techsupport

Thrift store, True Value Hardware, HomeDepot, Office Depot, Staples, Walmart, Target - all will have them.

Here's a link on Amazon if you hate to shop in real life:

u/sudonem · 3 pointsr/Atlanta

What kind of printer is it? If it's the kind that doesn't have a power brick built in to the power cord, you can pick up a replacement pretty cheaply at MicroCenter


u/Jimbozu · 3 pointsr/pics

I'm gunna blow your fucking mind here:

Surge Protected

Not surge protected

u/esposimi · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch
u/huhthatscool · 3 pointsr/aeroponics

I actually didn't tally up the cost as that wasn't really of a concern to me, but I'll try my best to provide links to the things I bought for this. Feel free to add it up for me!

u/Ropya · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Just make sure it can handle the amperage and youre good.

Something like this will do you just fine:

u/novofero · 3 pointsr/buildapc

You can get an 8 pin extension for that cable from NZXT.

u/JEWSUSxCHRIST · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I had to run the cable in front of everything and zip tie it back from touching anything. I will probably just purchase this

u/Wonderfish10 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

This should ease some of the cable management troubles.

I have it in my rig. The end separates so it's easy to pull through small gaps. Also sleeved so it looks nice.

May have to check shipping, tho. Not sure.

u/Lavins · 3 pointsr/watercooling

Okay, while you did a great job mounting those cards, your case is looking a bit of a mess! Haha. Let's help clean that up a bit.

  1. Is it possible for you to purchase an extension? Buy this one for your 8 pin motherboard, in black. They have white and red too, but you pick. This will allow you to run your 8 Pin behind the motherboard and out of the way.

  2. You can remove that bridge on the right. You only really need one and the second bridge is for triple SLI.

  3. Check out how I routed my tubing. Try to follow it as best as you can so you can get shorter runs.
  • For the bottom card, have that one go into the pump first.
  • For the top card, have that one go into the left side of the single 120 rad.
  • Have the 120 rad continue on into the CPU
  • From the CPU, have it then go into the reservoir.

    This should no only clean up your tubing for better aesthetics, but provide shorter runs and quite possibly drop a degree or two.

    As for your PSU, just a question though: how come you have it flipped up pulling air from inside of the case? Most people (with the exception of Linus from LTT) will have it draw air from the bottom (outside) of the case.
u/terp02andrew · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Weighted external cable-management: Cordies.

Saw these initially at The Container Store, but obviously over-priced there. Got these online, and have to say these are great for organizing your mouse/KB/speaker/mic cables.

I initially had some crappy setup with a cereal bag clamp (don't ask haha), but the Cordies product does it MUCH better.

Even more useful if you're making significant changes, where you are disconnecting/reconnecting all your cables.

This way the only cables that are free are my super thick dual-link DVI cables haha.

u/JoshNaDell · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Mount a rack¹ or something to the back of your desk where it'll be out of sight. Buy some velcro cable ties² (zip ties are potentially a bad choice³). Route the cables to your liking and hold them in place with those cable ties.

It might be a good idea to search up 'cable management' and look at all the different options you can work with.⁴

¹ ( if you have enough room (

² (

³ Zip ties are a bad choice because if you need to undo the bundle you could accidentally cut into your cables and ruin your hardware

⁴ (


u/firestormchess · 3 pointsr/malelivingspace

I got this thing

Cut two holes in the drywall. One behind the TV, the other in a hideable place near an outlet. Everything runs in the wall. I can add or remove wires any time I want. Literally nothing to see.

u/JesusMakesMeLaugh · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Something like this:

PCI-E 8 pin

u/HmnkZilla · 3 pointsr/sffpc

2700x w/Strix B450-I, Dom Plat RGB 3200mhz 2x8gb, Silverstone 700w Plat SFX-L w/swapped copper fan grill. If anyone wants to buy the PSU pm me haha, the stock fan grill from Silverstone is still mint, not to be confused with the grill that was painted. Im really trying to look for an SF600 with some custom cables or something, would die to have some PSlate cables or something before end of this month since I wont have time to wait for all of the processing time it takes for them. Have 20+ trades on r/hardwareswap but barely have time to even post anything nowadays. Still looking for a better shade of copper spray paint. If I had time I would have 100%%%%% powder coated instead of rattle-canning.

\^ Thats the PSU. I could do like $140 shipped with this thrown in from CO. Lmk!

u/mr_kirk · 3 pointsr/oculus

8 months ago, I got the following. It's basically a Tiki on the cheap.

Silverstone Tek Mini-ITX Computer Case with PCI-E Riser ML07B
Silverstone Tek NT06-PRO CPU Cooler
Silverstone Tek 450-Watts SFX PSU
Silverstone Tek Flat Flexible Modular PSU Cables
Panasonic UJ-265 Slim 6X Blu-ray Writer
Silverstone Tek Ultra Low-Profile SATA (CP11)

To that, I added this: "i7-4790K", "Crucial Ballistix 2x8GB DDR3 1600 CAS 8-8-8-24 Low Profile", "Crucial M550 512GB M.2 SSD CT512M550SSD4", "ASUS Z97I-PLUS", and a pair of "Scythe Slip Stream SY1212SL12M 120mm fans". And, a 780ti graphics card.

Of course, now, the 980 is out.

Anyway, it's a nice and fast machine that you can easily carry single handed. Just got fed up with the limits of laptops. Very quiet, too.

For most everything, I got on sale (lightning deals, etc.). Some for less than half what they are now charging. But, it pays to not be impulsive. Only the CPU is cheaper now than it was.

And every thing I've thrown at it is completely fluid. It's awesome to have something that runs UE4 like a REAL dev environment should run.

*edit: I just looked at amazons page for the case. Picture doesn't do it justice. The thing is SMALL, and is very high quality materials. Have a look for it on google images: Silvestone ML07B

u/Brassboar · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I'd go for the gold 450 SFX PSU. Just a little more reliable breathing room. Also get these to go with it.

Silverstone also has a 600w gold SFX PSU coming out in the near to slightly distant future if you can wait a bit.

The 600w one will come with the flat cable kit as standard.

u/TeaSwiz · 3 pointsr/Phanteks

I've only heard great things about the EVGA cables set. If i wasn't trying to save i'd be getting that instead of the Phanteks extensions.


EDIT: I got black and going for heavy white lighting and the cables are hopefully going to add a bit more visibility inside. Plenty of colors available from Phanteks and a few from EVGA too !

u/2down1up · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

It is highly recommended to go through the shutdown processes everytime you want to turn the device off to avoid SD card corruption. If you want to add a switch, so you dont have to unplug the cable every time you turn if off you can look at something like this:

Not sure where you are getting your 18650's from.... laptop batteries are a good place to harvest. But gotta check them. Most laptop batteries that "die" only have one cell that has gone bad. And you can get 18650 cases that hold 8x18650's pretty inexpensive on amazon and the like and that should power a pi zero for days. I've had one running on a 2x with motioneyeos for >24 hours. ymmv.

u/LoveRPi · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

If you need a physical power switch after shutting it down:
You can use your existing power supplies.

u/losangeleskingsfan · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

You can turn your Pi on/off without unplugging the power cord if you have this:

LoveRPi MicroUSB Push On Off Power Switch Cable for Raspberry Pi (Female to Male)

u/chaos_box · 3 pointsr/EtherMining

First, some numbers for you.

A stock R9 290X will do around 29-30MH/s (Claymore) and use ~250W of power at the GPU side, which translates to 312W from the wall at 80% efficiency. Add ~80W at the wall for the CPU/mobo and you're at ~400W for single-coin mining. That's pretty good even for a 600W PSU (but not good if your electricity is expensive). I've run this card with a 180W card on a 750W PSU with no issues.

I've been able to undervolt an R9 so it hovers around 190W at the PSU at 29MH/s but I haven't had the time to push it further. MSI Afterburner has been weird in applying settings. So that setting draws 350W at the wall for single mining, 450W for dual. OUCH.

Now, in your case - you only have 2 VGA power cables so, like you mentioned, you need to use a 6-pin adapter. You say SATA, but be aware that 1x SATA is specced to provide up to 50W. **DO NOT USE SOMETHING LIKE THIS*: - first review mentions that they melt! Of course they do, they are pulling all the power from a single SATA pin (even though it goes across two cables, it's the pin that's going to overheat). 6-pin is specced to provide up to 75W, 8-pin up to 150W.

These are much better because 2xSATA (50+50W) exceeds the spec of 6pin (75W) - but I would not do 2xSATA to 8pin:

Now, the million-dollar question - which rail are your SATA connectors on? You want to be able to provide 150W over the SATA adapters.

good** 750W PSU is fine for running that combo, but yours might be problematic. You can try, but get dual SATA adapters and definitely watch them for overheating.

u/ocupi · 3 pointsr/techsupport

You must buy and adapter like these on amazon. I would not recommend using it in its current condition. Get the adapter.


Or something like this.

u/Silver_Foxxx · 3 pointsr/computers


Or this.

It doesn't look like your power supply is modular because those Corsair PSUs use ribbon type cables.

These types of cable adapters are usually frowned upon. They tend to be very cheap in quality and have been known to start fires. Many people buy a power supply designed with at least two 6+2 pin PCIE power cables instead of using cable adapters.

Consider this.

u/Cowabunco · 3 pointsr/buildapc

There are really cool emergency stop or "self destruct" button covers too.

Or you could switch the power button to something like this for 4 bucks (even cheaper if you don't mind waiting for eBay):
(also handy to have when you want to eliminate the start button as a problem, but you don't want to muck around with shorting the pins)

u/CrossedZebra · 3 pointsr/techsupport

You can just get a generic power button like this -

And replace it/plug it in on your mobo in place of your case power button. You say your PC is self built so there shouldn't be any issue with a proprietary power board or anything.

You can then just run the power button outside the case, or drill a hole in a bay faceplate or something and mount it. Might even be able to run it in place to where the current power button is and replace it there with a bit of modding.

It's just a simple switch, don't fret over it and make it work! I don't recommend sending it in just for a switch issue.

u/HunterNephilim · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/Chalk_01 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Any 120v monitor power cable will work. Like this.

u/widowhanzo · 2 pointsr/buildapc

18, As long as you need it to be.

u/Kenzery · 2 pointsr/buildapc

A power cable, many things use a power cable so you may have one lying around the house. One on amazon:
edit: Your graphic card has DVI and check the back of your monitor for DVI as well.

u/mattinm · 2 pointsr/buildapc

If you're talking about the brick-to-monitor plug (the tiny one), I haven't had any issues with that and you'd have to check connection size, volts, amps; I wouldn't change the brick.

I assumed we were talking about the cable-to-brick plug, which is just a standard desktop / monitor cable size. Any of these cables on Amazon would work for that.

Just to make sure we got the same power brick, here's a photo of mine. Ziptied to the back of my monitor mount so it's out of site. The plug to the left is the power cable that goes to the wall and is actually removable. The plug to the right is the one that goes to the monitor.

u/VelociraptorLlama · 2 pointsr/techsupport

You will either have one of the following three cables as normally used by Dell (Or any other Vendor for that matter):
first, normal Powercord
second, looking similar to eyes
third, Mickey Mouse

u/mypctechs · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Buy a new power cable like this one Amazon Power Cable

Then plug the computer (just the computer and monitor no power strip, etc.) into a different outlet somewhere else in the house, like another room. Begin the process of elimination and work your way back.

Is it the power outlet? The power strip? The power cord?

if it works fine at the computer shop it's probably one of those three.

u/redditalldayandnight · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace
buy 2 one for monitor one for the tower if you live in the USA

u/Emerald_Flame · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You mean the one from the wall to the PSU? It's standardized so you should be able to find one easy, you probably have some and don't realize it.

If not:

u/camodr25 · 2 pointsr/buildapc



Power cord

RAM should be DDR3.

The case itself seems to be the Antec Twelve Hundred original, not V3.

u/purtymouth · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Power cords are universal, so don't worry about getting an alienware brand power cord. You need any old 18 gauge computer power cord, and you'll be good to go.

u/podboi · 2 pointsr/buildapc

IIRC all PSU packages should include that out the box, unless you bought it used? That's shitty of the seller if that's the case...

Anyway if you don't want to RMA it or request one from EVGA you can find those for cheap on amazon. Assuming that is what you need.

u/MonkeysFrolicking · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I had a similar issue with my monitor.

Buy that or use an extension cord.

u/McFeely_Smackup · 2 pointsr/lifehacks

It's not a bad idea, but
I'd recommend THIS kind of splitter over a power strip.

It's more tolerant of odd brick arrangements, and packs easier

u/WhatMichaelScottSaid · 2 pointsr/GameStop

Assuming its this:

You need this:
Cables Unlimted 6-feet Mickey Mouse Power Cord

u/BrixtonMatt · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I was going to do the same, but got these. Glad I went with the standard supply, it mounts to the i3V frame as well. You can skip the cord if you have one already, just cut the one end off.

$22.14 12v20a

u/woundup · 2 pointsr/techsupport

specifically a standard plug is a :

NEMA 5-15P to IEC-320-C13

for a 750w PSU you need 7-8 amp rated cord 10-amp rated is pretty standard 18 awg type like this:

any 18 awg UL listed cord is just fine, and cheap.

better PSUs sometimes use maybe a 14awg cable like:

but a 750W psu doesn't need that thick of a cord, it also won't hurt anything if it has a thicker cord

u/TheInnocentEye · 2 pointsr/prusa3d

This should do well enough, but you should be able to find an equivalent cable at any electronics store if you ask for an IEC cable.

u/alf3311 · 2 pointsr/hometheater

Denons use a somewhat unusual C18 power receptacle, which takes a C17 to NEMA 1-15 cable (2-prong ungrounded power cable). A "standard" C13 to NEMA 5-15 computer cable will fit and work just fine though (still won't be grounded).

u/52sully · 2 pointsr/buildapc
u/beamstas · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Here you go sir.

u/Skulldingo · 2 pointsr/gaming

I used one of these handy NZXT extensions, if you search for the product number you can find it red and white as well.

As for the RAM not fitting, they make a low profile version available in blue or black.

u/magicanthony · 2 pointsr/techsupportmacgyver

I anticipated this on my new build a few years ago since I had a very large case so I used extension adapters:



u/c-line · 2 pointsr/nyc

Oo, that is a good deal more than I thought the budget would be! Well, okay, what comes to mind to me anyway are the little toys from Think Geek, so here is their gift guide for <$50. Even if you don't get anything from them, it might at least give you some ideas? I personally like the chargers (solar, multi-USB, etc.) on the list, but it doesn't give you that multiple gifts in a box thing. Also, bucky balls are also surprisingly fun.

So these are my only further ideas as far as brick-and-mortar stores:

  • Kinokuniya -- 1073 6th Ave., at 40th-41st St (Bryant Park). This is a really cute Japanese bookstore, with CDs, clothes, manga, toys, and random things. I could spend hours there.
  • The Evolution Store -- 120 Spring St, off Broadway. I've not been here myself, but I have friends who sing its praises. Looking at its website, they at least sell a tote bag for $10, which I have to say is the most reasonably priced tote bag as I've ever seen. Not much really fitting "11 year old who's into electronics, games, music, and food" though.

    If by "food" she means sweets, there is

  • Dylan's Candy (two locations -- 1011 3rd Ave. at 60th St. and 1095 6th Ave. at 41st, again at Bryant Park)
  • M&M store -- 1600 Broadway at 49th St.
  • Hershey store -- 1593 Broadway at 48th St.
  • Economy Candy Market -- 108 Rivington (in the lower east side) for retro candies. Candies from your childhood! Candies from before she was born!

    If savory or offbeat snacks is more her thing, I'd suggest some Japanese snacks because they transport easily and can be quite interesting -- try:

  • Sunrise Mart, 4 Stuyvesant St. (off 3rd Ave.) or
  • M2M, 55 3rd Ave. at 10th St.

    (If you're coming from New Jersey, however -- and I only gather that it may be a possibility because you're coming into NYC via Penn Station -- there are basically the same snacks to be had at Mitsuwa in Edgewater.)

    As for the gift(s), I had a few ideas as well -- unsolicited perhaps, but what the hey:

  • external USB charger, like a backup battery, such as this. I use mine all the time.
  • gloves for using touch screens, like these. It's not the right season though, and she may not live in an area that gets cold though.
  • Nutella (because)
  • a Pandora One subscription ($36 for a year)
  • cable clip/organizer for the desk, like this (I love these)
  • box of googly eyes (because)

    Hope some of these ideas help.
u/VannaVictorian · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

fear cuts deeper than swords

1.) Something that is grey. probably the best thing invented.

2.) Something reminiscent of rain. who doesn't like doggy rain jackets? :3

3.) Something food related that is unusual. BACON

4.) Something on your list that is for someone other than yourself. Tell me who it's for and why. this item is something i would like to give to my boyfriend as a gift. he finally got his dream car on the road and we both love Judas priest.

5.) A book I should read! I am an avid reader, so take your best shot and tell me why I need to read it! this book is a classic. if you have seen the movie then the book is even better. along with my grandparents being back round actors in the original movie. look the book, love the movies.

6.) An item that is less than a dollar, including shipping... that is not jewelry, nail polish, and or hair related! cause its "cheap stuff"

7.) Something related to cats. I love cats! i would never get bored with this. or tiss on my wishlist :3

8.) Something that is not useful, but so beautiful you must have it. it's useless to me because i don't drink, but it's cool as fuck. (on wishlist, for my sister)

9.) A movie everyone should watch at least once in their life. Why? I loved this movie when i first watched it. it's interesting, keeps you watching and it doesnt start out boring like most "scary movies" do. it's a movie i would suggest to all. (on wishlist)

10.) Something that would be useful when the zombies attack. it explains itself.. but you can hold a lot of stuff while out hunting zombies!

11.) Something that would have a profound impact on your life and help you to achieve your current goals. my mother is a nail tech and i want to go to school as one so i can become one as well. this would help me become better at doing nails while i 'practice' on people.

12.) One of those pesky Add-On items. do you want a stinky toilet?

13.) The most expensive thing on your list. Your dream item. Why? i've always been a huge fan of sugar skulls and i would love this in my room. it's not a dream item but it is the highest priced item on my wishlist. i think it's beautiful.

14.) Something bigger than a bread box. on my wishlist. isn't it pretty? :)

15.) Something smaller than a golf ball. on my wishlist. " a golf ball weighs no more than 1.620 oz (45.93 grams), has a diameter not less than 1.680 in (42.67 mm)" my item is 1.25 in.

16.) Something that smells wonderful. i'm native american so i enjoy burning incense and sage. don't know about you, but it's a wonderful thing to me.

17.) A (SFW) toy. who doesn't like laser pointers? dog people. thats who.

18.) Something that would be helpful for going back to school. fuck, i'm 17 and i'd buy this for myself!

19.) Something related to your current obsession, whatever that may be. i'm obsessed with Judas Priest, as well as my boyfriend. i need to knew sweatshirt and i've been trying to convince my parents to get me this one. Turbo Love by Judas Priest is my boyfriend and I's song to each other, he just got his car on the road so his license plate is dedicated to that song. (wishlist item)

20.) Something that is just so amazing and awe-inspiring that I simply must see it. Explain why it is so grand. you may not think this is so amazing, but holy shit who wouldn't want to fucking float on a donut? i mean paint yourself yellow and just call yourself mothafuckinnn homer simpson! or this you'd have the best skinny dip of your life!

this was really fun! thank you :)

u/MPR1138 · 2 pointsr/declutter
u/samsterk911 · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Your'e gonna want some awesome new knives.

this to keep all your cords in place.

this so you don't have trouble plugging in all your stuff.

this can be used to keep track of all the tiny pieces (e.g. batteries, screws, etc.).

I personally use this everyday, it's the best.

these to keep you clean.

everyone needs one of these.

gotta put all the shoes somewhere.

something like this will come in handy.

It's the small details that count.

this could help when moving everything in.

And then get one of these bad boys for you!

okay I think I put enough for now, hope it helps.

u/gewruiaqhgeuiabghrey · 2 pointsr/Surface

The great thing with adhering to a global standard (though in fact Apple does too, but as usual only on their own terms) is that you have options.

u/Imlulse · 2 pointsr/M43

No aftermarket battery is gonna be better than OEM, in the best of cases they simply won't be worse, and can be a decent value considering how much cheaper they often are. I've heard a bunch of times that B&H's Watsons are some of the better third party ones, so I got one for my E-M5 II but I think the tolerances on it are a bit off (I don't think it's swollen) and it catches on the spring loaded clip that keeps it in, kind of a hassle TBH.

Rather than looking for a better battery, one thing I've found handy are third party USB chargers... For one thing they're more compact than the stock charger, and way more versatile since you can easily plug it into a car charger for phones or even a USB battery bank inside your bag. I've had good look with the OAproda ones on Amazon, recently bought a Powerextra to gift my mother for her G85 batteries but I've not tried it.

I don't know if the E-M1 II uses the same style of charger as older Oly bodies (with a bulky cable), but if it does and you wanna keep using it then you should absolutely get a duck head for it like this one... It plugs in stiffly enough you can easily leave it hanging from an AC outlet. I still travel with both the stock charger and the USB one I have so I can charge 2 batteries at a time.

Just turning off the camera (not necessarily intuitive to those used to DSLR) is by far the biggest battery saving habit. Mirrorless bodies consume power at all times since there's a constant sensor feed, so it's more about uptime (like a phone) than shots taken despite the ridiculous way CIPA still rates battery life.

u/nuck-stotes · 2 pointsr/thinkpad
u/scooterdog · 2 pointsr/hometheater

I found a 12' here.

What you need to look for is a 'right-angle IEC 60320-c7' connector, sometimes called an IEC C7 for short.

Another option is this unit from Amazon but you probably didn't want to plug that into an extension cord. (It is an idea though.)

u/privateDB · 2 pointsr/hometheater

Mount TV and place center below at ear level.

Also, you can conceal all of your cables and run power to the TV using something like this. They're pretty easy to install and look way nicer than using tape.

u/klapz · 2 pointsr/DIY

Very nice work, it looks great.

The only criticism I have is that it is against code to run the power cable through the wall like that. There are many kits that can easily fix this, though they are kind of pricey

u/thecw · 2 pointsr/sonos

You can get one of these bad boys

Legrand - Wiremold CMK70 Flat Screen TV Cord and Cable Power Kit, Recessed In-Wall Cable Management System with PowerConnect, White.

u/kilewalter · 2 pointsr/EtherMining

These work... 8 inches PC power supply CPU EPS 8 pin to 2 PCI-e 8 (6+2) pin PCI Express Graphics Card Internet Cable Power Splitters

And these... PCI-Express PCIE 8 Pin to Dual 8 (6+2) Pin Video Card Y-Splitter Adapter Power Supply Cable

I have that power supply and I run 7 x 1070s that have 2 8 pin Power plugs just fine... set your power limits to around 115-125 and you’ll be fine.

u/Logicalthinking247 · 2 pointsr/EtherMining

I have a bunch of these and they work perfectly PCI-Express PCIE 8 Pin to Dual 8 (6+2) Pin Video Card Y-Splitter Adapter Power Supply Cable

u/Morgon_ · 2 pointsr/MoneroMining

JacobsParts PCI Express Power Splitter Cable 8-pin to 2x 6+2-pin (6-pin/8-pin) 18 AWG are inexpensive and work great; I use these for splitting to power my riser.

PCI-Express PCIE 8 Pin to Dual 8 (6+2) Pin Video Card Y-Splitter Adapter Power Supply Cable are a little longer, but more expensive. Probably more useful for splitting to a different card.

You might find these on eBay for cheaper (Jacobsparts sells a 5-pack for $13, and no shortage of direct-from-China sources), but I hate waiting.

u/Thekiddsgood · 2 pointsr/EtherMining

I use VGA splitters, so 8 pin VGA from PSU to 6 pin (riser) and 8 pin GPU. I had to buy them from amazon. PCI-Express PCIE 8 Pin to Dual 8 (6+2) Pin Video Card Y-Splitter Adapter Power Supply Cable

u/veno131 · 2 pointsr/computers

Hey I found the cable you were looking for (8 to 6+2 connector)

Your PSU should have no problem running a RX 5700 XT if i were you though I’d wait till 3rd party retailers came out with theirs cuz the blower style cooler is trash

u/BOFslime · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

The most power thirsty of 970's is the Gigabyte 970 which has an 8 and a 6 pin. A dual 6+2 cable is the most elegant solution. You could always use the included molex adapter that comes with the GPU, but its not pretty.
It doesn't need to be connected to different modeler connectors at the PSU, as its a single 12v rail anyway.

u/jerkstore4 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I was about to say, ideally you would've wanted the CX500M. Your system should still draw less than 430w though. You may want to check a PSU calculator to get an idea of how close it'll be.

Nobody wants to recommend using the molex to 6-pin adapter. At the end of the day though, they give those adapters out for people in your situation and some people use them.

I was looking for a cable that would take the 8pin (150W) connector and split it into 2x 6-pin (75W) connectors but I didn't see any. I found one that splits it into 2x 6+2 pins, you just wouldn't use the +2 pins. That may possibly be a cleaner long term solution compared to using the molex adapter; then again, they're supposed to both come from a single 12v line.

u/TianLongCN · 2 pointsr/buildapc

The cable you got is the extension cable. You need something like this SilverStone Black Sleeved PSU Cable for One PCI-E 8pin (6+2) PP06B-2PCIE55

u/solomoncowan · 2 pointsr/livesound
u/VR20X6 · 2 pointsr/oculus

I collect old game consoles. Almost all of them use stupidly huge power bricks that block multiple outlets no matter what direction they run. My solution to this has been to buy tiny power extensions like these:

It's stupid that there are still so many huge/inconvenient power adapters in this day and age, but these things at least help.

u/Doubleks · 2 pointsr/amazonecho

Try something like these: 6-Inch Power Extension Cable, 5-Pack, Outlet Saver, 18 AWG

u/Neatname · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Assuming you're using the Intel stock HSF, that looks fine. You might want to look into getting this set of PSU cables to go with your PSU (they're compatible, I double checked). They're specifically for small form factor builds and I guarantee you'll have a much better time building if you use those.

u/curiositie · 2 pointsr/buildapc

The CPu will come with one, but I was assuming since you had selected a K CPU you'd be OC'ing and want a better cooler.

Looking on PCPP, I don't see a cheaper option than the 4690K @ microcenter in your build, and having a K CPu doesn't hurt anything if it doesn't cost more.

I'm partial to seasonic, but anything by Seasonic, Corsair, Silverstone, or EVGA should be fine.

For this build I'd probably go for the Silverstone ST50F-P, because it's a short power supply, and compatible with the PP05-E cable set which would make cable management easier in the case if you're willing to pay for extra cables.

Here's the build with the PSU and cable set

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU | Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | $199.99 @ Micro Center
Motherboard | ASRock H97M-ITX/AC Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard | $79.99 @ Micro Center
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory | $62.95 @ OutletPC
Storage | Samsung 850 Pro Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $149.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0 Video Card | $323.98 @ Newegg
Case | Cooler Master Elite 130 Mini ITX Tower Case | $32.99 @ Micro Center
Power Supply | Silverstone Strider Plus 500W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $67.98 @ Newegg
Other| PP05-E| $29.99
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $982.86
| Mail-in rebates | -$35.00
| Total | $947.86
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-03-09 21:16 EDT-0400 |

u/Hook_me_up · 2 pointsr/buildmeapc

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 2600X 3.6GHz 6-Core Processor | $209.99 @ Newegg
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master - MasterLiquid Lite 240 66.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $59.99 @ B&H
Motherboard | MSI - X470 GAMING PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard | $99.89 @ OutletPC
Memory | G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $154.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Crucial - MX500 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $84.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $59.99 @ Newegg
Video Card | MSI - GeForce GTX 1070 Ti 8GB Video Card | $434.99 @ B&H
Case | Lian-Li - PC-O11DW ATX Full Tower Case | $138.95 @ Adorama
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $79.67 @ OutletPC
Case Fan | Corsair - ML120 Pro LED White 75.0 CFM 120mm Fan | $25.52 @ OutletPC
Case Fan | Corsair - ML120 Pro LED White 75.0 CFM 120mm Fan | $25.52 @ OutletPC
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1439.49
| Mail-in rebates | -$65.00
| Total | $1374.49
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-10-15 14:21 EDT-0400 |

Edit:with the spare money you could buy some modded white cables plus a Cable comb

u/instasiink13 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

all EVGA sleeved modular cables

my set from EVGA



u/Tmrh · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

If you head over to /r/watercooling I'm pretty sure the guys there will be better able to help you on the subject than most people here. as far as parts go I know EK has very good parts for custom watercooling and they have parts available on amazon.

For the case, what do you mean by modular case? Cases aren't modular as far as i know, except maybe the mastercase 5 or mastercase pro 5 from coolermaster which are sort of designed with adding custom mods to them. But i don't think you can get them in white and purple.

as for the power supply this one is 99$ on amazon

for sleeved cables i can find white ones, but i don't see any white and purple ones on amazon, you could probably find some somewhere else. But then you wont be able to use your amazon gift card.

u/merlin318 · 2 pointsr/buildapc
u/Autolockx · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

I shut down the computer every time before switching this off. But that is common practice for all my PCs/consoles/single board computers. But this is the exact one I use.

LoveRPi MicroUSB Push On Off Power Switch Cable for Raspberry Pi (Female to Male)

Once again this IS the Raspberry Pi 3 version NOT the Raspberry Pi 4 which uses USB C. I don’t have the latest Raspberry Pi and cannot comment on what to use. I assume USB C also has something like this but I have not researched that option.

u/septhr · 2 pointsr/RetroPie

I've added

in line with the supply i already had. Works well and i haven't had any power issues with it either.

u/hootowlserenade · 2 pointsr/RetroPie

Had a another thought... How are you turning the pi back on? It sounds like you have power always on to the pi... So do you have to unplug/plug it back in? If so you should remove power from the Pi's micro USB port after your script has run... Or did you install a similar product to the one I posted? That product has a chip built into the board that shuts power off until you press the power switch...

Maybe you could get an in line power switch like this one:
LoveRPi MicroUSB Push On Off Power Switch Cable for Raspberry Pi (Female to Male)

And once your shutdown script shuts the pi off, power it off with the in line switch... Then when you want it back on just push the button on the in line switch.

u/techcaleb · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Yeah, that's fine. OK, by the numbers. It looks like this PSU has two 12 volt rails, each capable of 18 amps, or 12*18= 216 Watts. So that shouldn't be an issue, at least from that perspective. Now comes the tricky part.

The manufacturer seems to imply that the continuous power usage is about 150 Watts, but ( lists peak power at 303 Watts. Working backwards, that means the card is drawing about 75 Watts from each PCI 6 pin connector (or 6.25 amps) and it draws the remaining 150 Watts from the motherboard (usually from the EPS 12V connector).

So, as long as your processor isn't using too much power ( it would have to be less than 141 Watts) then you should be able to use the PSU.

One more check is to make sure you are not drawing more current than the single 12v wire in a 4 pin connector can handle (the yellow wire). Turns out the max current is 7 amps, and you are running 6.25 amps, so it's fine.

Here is an example of the type of adapter you want. You will want to plug each of the 4 pin connectors into a different branch coming out of the power supply. You want them to be on different rails to make sure the system in balanced, and you want them on different connectors to the PSU body to reduce voltage drop over a single wire.

All this to say that yes, it is possible to run it off the existing power supply. However, most people would prefer to use a 650 or 750 watt PSU to give a little headroom. Entirely up to you, but hopefully this example will make you more comfortable doing the calculations in the future.

u/turnturn1225 · 2 pointsr/orlando

There's a tigerdirect store on OBT if you NEED IT TODAY. Otherwise, Amazon has one with Prime shipping too :D

EDIT: I posted a 4 pin link, updated to a 6 pin.

u/TechGirlMN · 2 pointsr/PrintrBot

the power supply is fine, but you may need to get an adapter like this ( as I didn't see 6pin PCIe listed among the connectors. The only other thing left to do is run a jumper between the green wire and any black on the 20/24pin connector.

u/skyroket · 2 pointsr/gpumining

I have slowly started switching some off of SATA, but I do still have some. Now I just found this adapter that goes from two 4-pin Molex connectors into one 6-pin PCIe, so you can avoid SATA with those (I have yet to actually install these into one of my rigs). Another thing I added to my arsenal is a 6-pin PCIe extension cable, which goes from the pigtail of the GPU power connector down to its riser. This only works with cards that need one power connector, like a 1060 or 1070 SC (not FTW), 1070ti (not FTW).

u/clupean · 2 pointsr/buildapc

No. You'll fry your video card and it won't even fit. You can see in this image why. What you could do use a 6-pin to 8-pin extension, assuming your power supply supports it.

u/Manitcor · 2 pointsr/Alienware

Cable Matters (2-Pack) 6-Pin PCIe to 8-Pin PCIe Adapter Power Cable - 4 Inches

u/77xak · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You'll probably be better off buying a 6 pin to 8 pin adapter like this.. Using adapters improperly can cause the cables to melt or even damage components.

u/ResearchDeezNuts · 2 pointsr/CryptoMiningTalk

No problem. I'll include links so it makes easy for you. My advice, go with GTX 1080 tis. With some patience, you can get them for 800/each, and their profitability is more than twice that of RX 580s. The approach is simple and will take over a week to secure all your cards around that price range.

  1. You check amazon and newegg frequently for 1080ti with price range under $900
  2. Go to manufacturer websites and get auto-notify for the card you want(for example EVGA: Each website should send you a notification at least once per week that they restocked, you just have to react to it first. :)

    For Power Supply: invest in one 1600W for every 5 cards you run(1080 ti draws around 250W each. If you run each card at 80% power like most miners, you should be fine with a 1600W and 6 cards).


    Motherboard power button




    And one more thing: That's the dream build I've been saving up for. If you appreciated the help, please consider donating to my rig fund. And don't forget to tell me how it's treating you from the other side! =)

u/Emo_chipmunk · 2 pointsr/buildapc

OP you could get something like this in the meantime and just route the cable from under your case or something like that. It's not the most practical, but it's easier than jumping your pc or having to possibly ship it back.

u/eerietheery · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I'd make a long 2-pin power switch cable if I were in your situation. :) Good luck!

u/xmrminer01102018 · 2 pointsr/MoneroMining

After getting the correct parts with a lot of research on which parts to get, Linux(Ubuntu) is running Eight GPU XMR Rig. I added the list so that you do not have to wonder which parts to get.


Eight GPU Rig Essential Shopping List:


NOTE: I do not get paid for referring to, and

You can search them using google and duckduckgo.


  1. COLORFUL C.B250A-BTC PLUS Motherboard LGA1151 Mining 8 Graphics Card Stolts US


  2. Six PowerColor Red Dragon Vega 56 GPUs and two MSI Radeon RX Vega 56 Air Boost 8G OC.

    Linux and xmrig-amd miner do not work well with PowerColor Red Devil Vega 56 GPUs.


  3. CPU - Intel Celeron G3920 Skylake Dual-Core 2.9 GHz LGA 1151 65W


  4. G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 16GB 260-Pin DDR4 SO-DIMM DDR4 2400 (PC4 19200) Laptop Memory

    It may work with 8 and 4 GB modules. I had 16 GB on hand and I did not want to buy extra.


    5. Seasonic PRIME 1300W 80+ Platinum Power Supply

    More power needed for overclocking.

  5. EVGA SuperNOVA 1600


  6. Electop 2 Pack 2 Pin SW PC Power Cable on/Off Push Button ATX Computer Switch


  7. 4 X 120mm DC 12V 2.4A 200CFM 3Wire 3Pin TAC Connector FFC1212DE CPU Cooling Fan

    NOTE: The fan is very noisy since it is comparable to server grade fan.


  8. ModTek 4-Pin Molex to 4 x 3-Pin Fan Connector Cable (Power 4 Fans from 1 Molex Connection!)


  9. Eight COMeap 6 Pin Male to Dual 2X 8 Pin (6+2) Male PCI Express Power Adapter Cable for

    Graphics Video Card 24-inch (62cm)



    How to get it working quick guide.


    Connect PCIE cable provided by Seasonic(You will use 4 cables providing 8x6 connections) to

    PCIE input ports.

    Since the mother board does not have 24 pin connector, you have to short 24 pin connector

    as shown in the following Seasonic self test video using the paper clip.

    If the 24 pin connector notch is on top, connect 4th pin on the first row with 3rd pin on the

    second row.

    Cover the paper clip with electrical tape.


    Once you get the pc booting, install according to my Vega mining guide with onboard GPU and single Vega and stop it at "ADD ALL THE VIDEO CARDS HERE". Turn off the computer.

    Connect remaining seven COMeap 6 pin connectors to PCIE output ports on the mother board and to other 7 GPUs.


    Vega Mining Guide for Linux(Ubuntu)



    Quick sequence for running the miner.

    NOTE: Replace gpu sequence, *data* file and fan speed according to your equipment.

    Copy config.json_V56_8GPU to config.json and add your wallet id to it.

    If you are using V64 and FE, change intensity to 960 and use the different *data* and PPT files.


    ./ 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8 MSIV56H.data_OC8_7 skip

    ./ 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8 7 6

    ./ 1 V56PPT

    ./ 2 V56PPT

    ./ 3 V56PPT

    ./ 4 V56PPT

    ./ 5 V56PPT

    ./ 6 V56PPT

    ./ 7 V56PPT

    ./ 8 V56PPT

    ./ -g 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8 -s 82

    cd ~/git/xmrig-amd/build



u/iCallTomSmith · 2 pointsr/battlestations

It's the Thermaltake view 31 rgb,With cases themaltake, for vertical GPU, it needs to the riser
How to Install a graphics card vertical in the Thermaltake

u/zomsabra · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Still don't fucking own it, but its the right size for my components; however in my case there's straight up not enough room for the card to fit WITH the motherboard. So I'm planning on getting a pci-extention cord so I can have some more wiggle room.

u/pcgate · 2 pointsr/sffpc

If you're going to use a video card, yes! Onboard, not really. Find a pcie ribbon cable, and you can keep the video card connections inside the case while keeping the rear of the PC clean.

[Amazon link]( TT Gaming PCI-E x16 3.0 Black Extender Riser Cable 200mm AC-053-CN1OTN-C1

u/Dark_24 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

yes of course there is cheaper - BUT cheaper means crappier!! You would likely WANT it to work yes? That means you want a Shielded cable..

Also what length do you want /need?

u/DZCreeper · 2 pointsr/buildapc

A single fan header can power multiple fans, you just need a splitter cable which is only 2-3 dollars.

Better case airflow means each individual fan can spin slower, reducing noise. Same principle behind aftermarket CPU coolers, extra surface area lowers noise.

To be honest, the Carbide 88R isn't a good case choice. The single stock fan and closed off front panel design will result in poor stock temperatures. I would strongly recommend a Fractal Design Focus G instead, which is similar in price. If you add a rear 120mm exhaust fan it is an excellent case. Arctic P12 is a decent cheap fan model, about $10.

I use that in my case, the first fan gives the motherboard an RPM signal, all of them run at the same PWM level, and they get power from the SATA connector.

A cheaper and less flexible option is just a cable:

u/cyberintel13 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Nice! Glad it's working well for you! Oh you can add as many fans as you want. You can get fan header splitters that let you put 3-4 fans per header! Like these:

As for the RAM, by default DDR4 RAM will run at 2400mhz. You need to enable the 3200 XMP profile in the BIOS.

Also some monitoring tools read the default speed of the RAM, easiest place to see the actual speed is either Task Manager or HWINFO64.

u/Harlodchiang · 2 pointsr/buildapc

There are 3 things that you need:

A Lighting Node Pro, or Commander Pro. This is the hub that links to your motherboard using a USB 2.0 internal header.

A Corsair 6-port RGB hub. It looks like this, and comes with the 3-fan kits that include the Commander Pro or Lighting Node Pro.

Finally, the fans. The SP, HD, and LL use these hubs. It is worth noting you cannot mix fan types, like LL and HD on one Corsair 6-Port RGB hub.

The way you link them up is:

All the fans have 2 cables, RGB and Power.

The RGB cables go to the 6-port hub first. Make sure the fans are plugged in sequentially, such as 1 to 6 without skipping ports.

The power cables can go into the Commander Pro if you have it. If you don't, you will need to buy splitters such as these ones. The splitters go on a fan header on the motherboard, splitting it into 3 duplicated ports.

The Commander Pro or Lighting Node Pro should come with a RGB cable that should be the same in both sides. Use this to link the 6 pin hub to the Pro hub, plugging it into LED 1.

Link the Pro hub to the motherboard using the USB cable. It plugs into the USB 2 internal port.

Finally, link the Pro hub and 6-port hub to SATA power. The connector looks like this

A video explaining this

It might sound confusing, but it's worth it.

u/Switchen · 2 pointsr/buildapc

A couple of these guys should do it for you.

u/theotherdanlynch · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Just connect your fans to the motherboard. If you connect them to the PSU, they're going to run at full speed all the time. That'll sound like an airplane trying to take off and it'll suck huge amounts of dust into your case.

u/HiIAMCaptainObvious · 1 pointr/BitcoinAll

Here is the post for archival purposes:

Author: Jballerz



>Bitmain makes it clear your power cord needs to be 220-240v or else the power supply will not be able to deliver 1600w. I don't see a voltage anywhere in the information, will this power cord work with my APW3++ for powering a T9/S9? Thanks!

u/adudeinblue · 1 pointr/buildapc

An power cord powers the monitor.

Most likely something like this:

But of course each monitor is different. Check your monitor's manual online.

u/iBUYPOWER-Brad · 1 pointr/iBUYPOWER

the Power cord for the PC is generic. Check the shape of the plug on your power supply and make sure its this kind:

You can find these cables for $5-10 at pretty much any electronics store or online retailers

(very high wattage power supplies, usually 1000w or higher sometimes have their own special power cords, so make sure to check the shape of the plug)

u/OverlookeDEnT · 1 pointr/techsupport

Think this one will do? C2G/Cables to Go 03134 18 AWG Universal Power Cord (NEMA 5-15P to IEC320C13) Black, TAA Compliant (10 Feet/3.04 Meters)

u/jwilson8767 · 1 pointr/Monitors

Looks like your monitor has a built-in power adapter. All you need is a normal three prong power cord

u/DanTheGoodman_ · 1 pointr/homelab

The two I am looking at right now are this dell and this hp. I am swining more towards the dell, but the hp does come with 3 drives and has slightly better ram. I think I will still go with the dell since it has double the drive bays plus 2 psus vs one. But I do have a question: would they be using this power cable or the ones with horizontal prongs? Edit: it looks like dell takes the vertical ones that I listed

u/DrJero · 1 pointr/piano

That's a standard power cable across a lot of devices, particularly computers and laptops. There's a chance you may have one lying around your house.

First amazon result, can probably find it cheaper. Remember to get it from your country so it'll fit in your country's socket.

u/Funkbass · 1 pointr/buildapc

I have the simplest of simple questions! I am using a Universal Power Cable (similar to the linked one but not the same model) to connect my PC to my UPS. I lost the original that came with my PSU and picked up whatever one was lying around the house and it seems to work fine. I just want to know if they're all the same or if I could be potentially underpowering my PC (if that's even possible to do with just a cable.) Thanks in advance! It's a pretty cheap cable so I'll probably order a replacement regardless. Is the amazon one I linked a solid choice?

u/Neptune2284 · 1 pointr/buildapc

I feel really dumb for asking, but here goes anyway!

My friend gave me his Corsair CX600 to help with my first build. Unfortunately he didn't have the original power cable (IE the one that plugs from the back of the PSU into the outlet) anymore. Do I have to get a specific cable, or will a generic one like this work:

u/ChiefMedicalOfficer · 1 pointr/techsupport

Power cable


Please ensure that power cable is correct for the US outlets.

u/psimwork · 1 pointr/buildapc

Although any local electronics store should have a PC power cable (and I find it VERY unusual that there wouldn't be one in the power supply - be sure to check the box again to see if you've misplaced it).

u/NanoDice · 1 pointr/Roku

Thank you. Will this work? I don't know what AWG means..

u/RearEchelon · 1 pointr/buildapc

You want an IEC power cable. Here is one on Amazon for $8.

u/NotFlameRetardant · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

It uses a standard IEC power cable like you'd plug into your PSU, and I'm 99% sure it came with one.

u/Madmartigan1 · 1 pointr/Dell

It's just a regular power supply cable like this one.

u/infinitejester7 · 1 pointr/audiophile
u/Brewtusmo · 1 pointr/cableadvice

Fairly certain. I swapped this cable out for a standard cable--like so--passed through the place on the chassis where the mount is and the machine started right up.

u/completelydeck · 1 pointr/buildapc

I'm pretty sure just a regular, thickly gauged power cord should work.

u/CPOx · 1 pointr/AVexchange

Yes, it's a standard US power cable.

Same kind that goes into computer power supplies, etc. Looks kinda like this one (except mine is only 6 feet I think)

u/Beezlesnort · 1 pointr/AskReddit

Because it costs less.

They could put a small cord on it that leads to the power brick, but that would add a few cents to the cost of the item. Multiply that by a few thousand, and it adds up.

There are solutions out there.

Like this

Or this

Or this

u/noneedtoprogram · 1 pointr/techsupport

Does the cable look like this

or this

Either way they are easy to get on amazon or whatever. It sounds like you're talking about the simple power cord that connects the power brick to the wall.

Also, it's probably just the fuse that's gone. In this case you could either find a spare fuse, or scavenge one from another plug.

What country are you in? I'll be able to help you find a replacement more easily if I know what mains plug end to find you ;)

u/nagash666 · 1 pointr/techsupport probably this one works for you if adapter entrance is ok 3 or 4 prong doesn't matters

u/bravurasoftware · 1 pointr/sffpc
u/Omlettwender · 1 pointr/thinkpad

For the keyboard layout it depends if you have any special characters that you won't find on an US keyboard.

For the charger that should not be much of an issue. As far as i can remember all the chargers run on 100-240V and you just need the appropriate cable to connect the charger to your power outlet that is suitable for the outlets in your country. American cable for reference on how they look since I don't know where you're located ;-)

u/nightpanda2810 · 1 pointr/MSILaptops

US guy here, but I think I can help, somewhat.

The cable from the brick to the wall, correct? No reason to cut anything IMO, I'd just buy the correct cable for this. They are fairly inexpensive, so I'd personally get the cable instead of using an adapter.

Here is the US equivalent, should help you find what you need. The "Mickey-Mouse" looking end is what plugs into the brick.

u/skyspydude1 · 1 pointr/thinkpad

Are you talking about the power cable, or the cable from the laptop to the brick? If it's the power cable, they're only a few bucks on Amazon.

u/firestorm_v1 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Get a US "Mickey Mouse" cable. You'll be fine. The power supply is auto-ranging so it will switch to 110V mode (standard US voltage). Then use the UK cables to tie up the neighbor's dog. Here's an amazon link to the cable you need.

Edit: Looks like OP found a cable off a laptop (i'll guess either Dell or HP).

u/johnjs · 1 pointr/buildapc

Your PSU should have come with a power cable. Contact either the storefront you purchased from or Corsair about that. If that doesn't work out, this seems like a decent replacement. Keep in mind that cheaper power cables tend to have thinner gauges, and can be dangerous due to high heat. As for your HDD to your mobo, you will need a sata cable.

u/weezilla · 1 pointr/labrats

Thanks a ton. I'm a little bit less worried now. I bought the 6ft .

Final update. The shape of the male socket in the hotplate did not allow for this cable to fit, because it had a cylindrical protrusion opposite from the ground (to stop you from using just any power cable). I simply used a drill to drill out a notch on the power cable so that it would fit into the hotplate, while being sure that all I was drilling out was rubber. Sorry I don't have a photo.

u/zakabog · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

For the post part, as long as it's one of these cables then they're essentially all the same and rated for 15 amps, especially when it comes to display power since there's no way a modern PC monitor will take as many watts as an old school 27" CRT.

u/Bobsagetluvr · 1 pointr/techsupport

Check on the back of your PSU. It'll either have a switch from 110>230, or be active PFC and have nothing. I am betting that it is the latter, especially for a 1200W unit, I have yet to see one with a switch (I would still check the specs on your PSU either on the side of the unit, or manufacturers website to confirm). This means you just need to buy a different power cord for it. Something like this, your standard C13/5-15P power cable.

Same would probably go for your monitors power supply. Check on it to make sure it has an input range of 100-240v (or close to that), should just need to change the cable from the PSU brick to the wall.

u/PhoenixEnigma · 1 pointr/buildapc

Note that the link there is for 18AWG cables, which is only recommended for up to 2.3A, or ~275W at 120V (and probably safe for a bit more). That's fine for a monitor or a generic office computer, but if you're pulling more than 250W from the wall, I'd seriously look at a heavier gauge cable - it's going to cost a bit more, because copper is kind of expensive, but it's not that much more to get a good 14AWG power cable from a reputable manufacturer. Power cables aren't like cat5 or USB, they can carry serious power and voltage and it's not worth messing around with that.

u/SimplyTheDoctor007 · 1 pointr/PS3

I mean, shitty insulation on cables wearing out is generally what causes a cord to get retired one way or another. Industrial cables are pretty much guaranteed to have good insulation for whatever your use is, regardless of how much you move them around.

EDIT: Just digged up my purchase, Here is my power cord I bought for my computer monitor.

u/mcochran1998 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace
u/TrustMeImALawStudent · 1 pointr/buildapc

Here are two options. The second one is much nicer.

u/chimera765 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Just purchased a Gigabyte 970 and I see it has a 6pin+8pin config for power delivery.

I can't seem to find a connector that looks compatible. Would THIS 6+2pin work? Or would a typical 8pin like THIS work?

u/smudi · 1 pointr/buildapc

Wow, that looks really, really nice. I really dig the side window to see all of the parts inside. Especially that gpu and how it lights up just a bit. Very nice touch.

You are certainly right about that cpu cooler, that is monstrous. I have a cpu cooler that I thought was fairly big because it hangs over the first RAM slot, however yours... geez. I havent heard of that specific cooler before, but I know from browsing this subreddit that phanteks makes high end stuff, and by the looks of that cooler, it seems top notch.

I see what you mean by that 8 pin power connector. My case is also fairly big and I just barely made the reach when routing that cable behind the back of the motherboard tray. Im not sure if your plan is to extend the 8 pin connector, but something like this 8 pin extender has a fair bit of class to it while also doing the job. Although if you are in the UK, prices will obviously be different.

Speaking of having everything set up properly, I did notice 1 thing from that picture you might look into. Generally for a psu, it is mounted "upside down". With the fan facing the floor/ground. The fan on the psu is usually an intake fan, meaning it sucks air into it to cool off the internal components of the power supply itself. Right now, it would be pulling air from inside the case to cool itself off. This isnt much of a big deal as it can be mounted either which way, but the majority... well, nearly every single modern power supply I have seen has the fan face the bottom of the case. Although, yours is lit up with led's, which makes me a bit less certain since you wouldnt exactly see them if it were facing down. Maybe a quick test while the computer is on by taking off the side panel and putting your hand, or even a piece of paper over the psu fan to see if air is being sucked into it, or being pushed out would give the answer. Honestly, your system shouldnt get "hot" and this isnt much of an issue, but worth pointing out.

If you are interested in some temp testing programs, I am quite fond of core temp. It is a small bit of software that you can set to run constantly and even launch on start up, but minimized to your system tray. The function of it is to list off the temperature of each core of your cpu. Your cpu has 4 cores, so it would list 4 temperatures in real time. If you expand it out of the system tray, it will also show you the highest temp it records, and the lowest. Useful if you are benchmarking or just checking to see how hot your system actually gets. There are various others out there as well, and it's really just up to preference on what you think you would prefer to use. Hardware info is another rather popular piece of software that does the same thing, with some extra features like recording voltages on your cpu, which is useful if you want to overclock.

Thank you for the gold as well, that was a nice sentiment and I appreciate that. Anyways, have fun with your system. It's a good one!

u/Thankyoumr · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace
u/aphreshcarrot · 1 pointr/buildapc

Check out this one. I'm looking at buying it soon too since my 8-pin touches my graphics card too.

u/Koldof · 1 pointr/buildapc

Why is the MOBO power cable not tucked behind the case, [here is a diagrom] ( (Paint Pro™). Is the cable to short? If it is, I'd recommend buying an extender. Something like this NZXT one. They're also really nice looking, thanks to the black sleeve (other colours are available).

u/alaphamale · 1 pointr/buildapc

You'll be happy with the Phantom.

As far as cable length, you will likely be fine except for the CPU power. In the HAF X, Storm Stryker and now the 810 this cable has always come up a bit short for me. Just get an extension cable like this...

This PSU has a 120mm fan.

u/Leebyn · 1 pointr/CableManagement

Alright. Having a modular PSU is definitely helpful.

My motherboard is the Asus Z87-A. It looks like your CPU power is slightly closer to the top of the motherboard than on mine, so you should have better luck routing it through the lower rubber grommet, around the back and through the hole on the top right (when you look on the back side).

Front side / Back side (sorry, ugly pictures)

I bought this extension from amazon and you'll see in the back I have plenty of "slack length". I guess it's ~550mm + 250mm extension total length.

If not, you'll have to run the cable across the front over your GPU, which should also reach fine. I had it that way for a while, and your CPU power isn't more than 100mm away.

u/yetisquatch · 1 pointr/buildapc

I just built nearly this same build with a few extras (64gb ssd, gtx 560ti, and with gskill 1600 ram). You are going to want to buy an 8-pin extension for your motherboard power: ...... because whatever power supply you get probably wont reach from behind the motherboard for cable management. I went with this PSU: In hindsight, I probably would have bought the 700watt for future SLI capability but Ive been doing research and used several psu wattage calculators and 600w should actually be enough for sli and all my other components.

u/joelthezombie15 · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

OH I remember there was this one I saw that looked super useful for what I needed it to do.


I remember them being way cheaper though.

u/deegan87 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

The Quirky Cordies cord holder I picked up when they were selling of everything and shutting down their e-commerce website.

u/-Untitled- · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

These can be really helpful for managing cables!

u/Cognac_Carl · 1 pointr/battlestations

Its a rubber coated piece of metal. Its heavy enough to hold cables but light enought you can pull the cables out easy. Here's the amazon link

u/__T-Bone__ · 1 pointr/thinkpad

I picked up a 45W USB C charger for about USD $34. I don't have my X1C5 yet and I don't know what the charging time difference is between the 65W and 45W charger but it's pretty compact and light.

Edit: I believe what you are looking for is [NEMA 1-15P to C7] ( I have never used these and not sure of the quality.

Edit 2: Also, make sure if you need a polarized connector. The one linked above is non-polarized and may not work if the charger requires a polarized one.

u/overzeetop · 1 pointr/Surface

The mag connector end or the 120v end that plugs into the wall?

If it's the 120V end, the Surface power bricks use a standard IEC 320 / C7 form factor, like this one for $8 from Amazon.

I have one of these for travelling because it's one less cord and most hotels have an outlet on the desk lamp these days.

u/amZNeZk1 · 1 pointr/thinkpad

This is in my wishlist - Anker USB Type-C, Anker Premium 5-Port 60W USB Wall Charger PowerPort+ 5 USB-C with Power Delivery for Apple MacBook, Nexus 5X / 6P and PowerIQ for iPhone, iPad, Samsung & More. Plus something like this (already shown below)

u/Grim-Sleeper · 1 pointr/chromeos

I am a big fan of this Anker's USB-C power supply. Works fine for all my legacy devices and also for my cell phone and Pixelbook.

And the best part is, while it comes with a power cord, you can install an adapter to turn it into a wall charger. I haven't tried yet, but I imagine this also works with European plugs.

I installed an extra long 10ft USB charging cable. That's the beauty of having a device that you can plug arbitrary cables into, rather than being limited by the power supply that came with your device.

u/cannonimal · 1 pointr/bravia

Use this for hiding the cables. But you’ll need to take the TV down

u/umdivx · 1 pointr/hometheater

Here's a better kit you can show him and explain to him what it is and how it works.


As you can see here, there are two "ends" of the in-wall kit, the male receptacle and the female receptacle.

The "cable" that runs between each of the receptacles can't be anything but romex because its within the wall.

However this kit, isn't pushing anymore over 15amp as its just a power cord for a single device, you're not running multiple devices off of the run, just the projector is running off of the run.

Just because the outlet that the kit plugs into is a 20amp circuit / outlet, doesn't mean the whole kit also has to be 20amp.

u/Fant2 · 1 pointr/OLED

Install something like this .. I've put that in a few places and it's pretty straight forward and includes everything you need except a drill.

u/DayBeast · 1 pointr/malelivingspace

I put a hole in the wall behind the TV and installed this

u/biceps2spare · 1 pointr/battlestations

I cut a few holes in the walls to run the cables and power.

Run this on the back of the "desk"

And because I couldn't run cable from left to right behind the wall because of studs I use this to at least control the wires on the wall.

u/ScramblingBacon · 1 pointr/buildapc

I posted this earlier, but it didn't get much attention. To this thread!

My friend is building a computer and bought an r9 280x gpu with a Corsair CX 600M PSU. The 280x requires both a 6 and 8 pin pcie power cable, yet the 600M came with a cable like this (an 8-pin to two 6+2 pins).

Can he use just that cable for his 280x or will it run into power problems due to it splitting?

u/codereddew12 · 1 pointr/gpumining

If you had four 8-pin PCIE slots on your PSU, you would need either:

  1. 8-pin to dual 6+2 pin splitters


  2. Dual connector PCIE cables (EVGA usually includes at least 2 of these cables with their PSUs. The ends with the red arrows are the ones that plug into the actual GPU, whereas, the other end plugs into the 8-pin connector in the PSU).
u/ndougla2 · 1 pointr/buildapc

2 questions:

Would there be a huge performance loss in using a EVGA 770 4GB Superclocked in SLI with a 770 4GB Classified as opposed to a second Classified? The stats on them look pretty similar. I kept waiting on the Classified to hit B-Stock, but I can get the Superclocked for the same price as the B-stock Classified and get my SLI up and running now.

Second, Are [these] (
alright to use with SLI 770s? Or should I use 1 cable for each power connection to the PSU? Would help with keeping cable clutter down.

u/Drazga · 1 pointr/gpumining

I am currently powering each of my Zotac 1080 Ti Amp Extremes a Corsair (Type 4) 8 pin PCIE at the PSU to dual 8 pin PCIE (6+2) at the GPU.

Instead of powering my risers with molex or sata would it be okay to use the same kind of cables to power two separate risers using the 6 pin PCIE?

I would be plugging an 8 pin PCIE into the PSU then plugging one end of each 8 pin (6+2) PCIE cables into a 6 pin on the riser. Obviously, I wouldn't be using the +2 pin on either riser. Is this safe to do to power two separate risers? I assume the each 6 pin from the PCIE would be rated for 75w since the 8 pin PCIE is 150w before it splits to the dual 8 PCIE (6+2)?

Here is a picture of a cable similar to what I am talking about:

u/Karma_Stock_Buy · 1 pointr/EtherMining

Hey I used the search bar to find this!!! I have this exact same problem. I have XFX RX 580's from BestBuy. They require 8pin and a 6pin power connector. But the cards wont boot with just the 8 pin the lights come on but the fan doesn't spin. The card wont be recognized. It needs both 8pin and 6pin for it to work. How do I get these cards to boot with just the 8 pin? I have 2 750 Watt EVGA. Would I need this converter cable for it to work?

u/yumyumpills · 1 pointr/buildapc

I'm currently using a molex adaptor in my portable rig for my 270x and was wondering if this 6 pin splitter:

would work to replace the molex cables, or if I should just get 2 single 6 pin connectors for it.

The PSU is a Corsair CS450M.

u/nautimike · 1 pointr/buildapc

Not sure if it helps, but, I'm pretty sure that PSU was actually made by PC Power and Cooling.

You could use a PCI-E 8 pin splitter like this -

That said, I'm not a fan of using cable adapters to make a PSU work.

u/bnich11 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

No adapter. Its the standard GPU power cord that comes with the PSU. It looks something like this.

Since my GPU requires a 6 pin and 8 pin to be fully powered, and I only have the dual 6+2 cord I used one full 6+2 and only the 6 pin connector. I know, I'm sorry, its really confusing for me to explain.

u/Xalteox · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Best way to go. One came with my GPU when I got it. Check your GPU box, one may have come with it as well.

u/DankeyKong64 · 1 pointr/EtherMining

Instead of using 2 separate 8 pin cables for my 1080 TI can I use [one of these] (

u/Zn2Plus · 1 pointr/gpumining

I haven't used these before so I can't vouch for them:

u/dumplestilskin · 1 pointr/buildapc

You need this.

Stay away from any Molex or SATA adapters.

u/BitcoinAllBot · 1 pointr/BitcoinAll

Here is the post for archival purposes:

Author: McBrenday


>So basically I didn't know that a 1080 FTW had 2 8 pin slots and this basically overthrew my mining rig operation that I just built. I've read up on Y splitter cables and they do not seem to be that great in terms of being reliable cables. I do not have enough power slots on my PSU to support all the Evga 1080 FTW's I have.

>I was looking at these from amazon and was wondering if one of these could support 1 1080 FTW :

u/ThomasAgient · 1 pointr/EtherMining

Hello !

I have a 6xEVGA GTX1070 FTW and my PSU is EVGA SUPERNOVA 1300 G2. I have a question: How to power up those cards ?
I'm wondering whether to buy those adapters:
or just second PSU. Let me know in the comments !

u/Moonkae · 1 pointr/buildapc

That makes much more sense. Thank you! It's just frustrating, I didn't return the card :). I bought this adapter and hope it works as everything I've read said it's exactly what I need. Thanks again.

u/PixelAmp · 1 pointr/techsupport

Thank you so much! I'm going to order this cable! Thank you for the help!

u/piemelkaas · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

So one like this? You should be able to find one pretty cheap online.

EDIT: You could also use one of these to convert molex into a 6 pin connector

u/Colinluca · 1 pointr/techsupport

something like this. In this case it's called PCI-E cable, which doesn't really matter. EVGA just calls it VGA (Video Graphics Array), just their way of saying it's for graphic cards.

there SHOULDN'T be any compatibility issues, but if you are not sure, it's better to call up EVGA and ask if they can send you one (It seems you have a modular PSU, but i guess you just don't have all the cables for it?)

u/turbopiki · 1 pointr/buildapc

it should work, but i really wouldn't use it. I would get this male 8-pin to male 8-pin and connect PSU directly to GPU with any splitters.

u/offlebagg1ns · 1 pointr/buildapc

I have a CX500M which according to pcpartpicker is compatible. Could I use the 6+2 PCI-E part and plug into my GPU? What kind of cord would I need for that? Or do I need a new PSU altogether?

edit: This maybe?

u/tehRandomAccount · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Here's one.

u/CaliforniaOC1 · 1 pointr/buildapc

I'm using one PCI-E 8 pin that came with the PSU but since it only came with one 8 pin I had to order a different one and this is the only one I could find.

I think it might be this cables fault since it was made for a silverstone PSU

u/mandullins · 1 pointr/buildapc

Hello all,
I've recently purchased a new graphics card and subsequently realized I needed an 8 pin PCI-E cable to connect it. My power supply says it has 8 pin but now with all parts in hand it seems like the connectors are keyed differently. I feel like I'm missing something but can't figure out for the life of me. Specs below. Any assistance would help put my mind at ease.



Connector I currently have:

Again, any push in the right direction would help.

u/onerous · 1 pointr/explainlikeimfive

They sell short extension cords to help with this

u/disconappete · 1 pointr/mildlyinfuriating

In the AV world these are call these cheater cables. Probably cheaper on monoprice.

6-Inch Power Extension Cable, 5-Pack, Outlet Saver, 18 AWG

u/numbski · 1 pointr/mildlyinfuriating

6-Inch Power Extension Cable, 5-Pack, Outlet Saver, 18 AWG

u/KravenErgeist · 1 pointr/mildlyinfuriating

You can get a bunch of them from Amazon. I have to imagine this solution also sort of doubles as a safety if the cords get tugged on for any reason - more places for it to separate and not damage the integrity of your plugs.

u/hiryuux · 1 pointr/hardwareswap

Would you be interested in a set of Silverstone flat short cables?

u/kiwiandapple · 1 pointr/buildapcforme

This is what I came up with. Went slightly overkill on some parts. I decided to go with an M-ATX build instead of an ITX build. This will give you some upgrade options later and still be fairly compact.
I have to put my rationale in a reply as I ran out of characters! :]

Note that the PC only comes to a total of ~$1400. But I included extra's as I did note that you were not using a great monitor and your mouse is broken and you asked for a headset. So I included all of this.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU | Intel Core i7-4790 3.6GHz Quad-Core Processor | $289.99 @ Newegg
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master Hyper TX3 54.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | $16.98 @ Newegg
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-Z97MX-Gaming 5 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $116.96 @ SuperBiiz
Memory | Team Dark Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $132.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Crucial MX100 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $208.97 @ SuperBiiz
Storage | Western Digital WD Green 2TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive | $81.98 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 4GB WINDFORCE 3X Video Card | $355.66 @ Newegg
Case | BitFenix Phenom M Nvidia Edition: Black MicroATX Mini Tower Case | $49.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Silverstone Strider Gold S 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $129.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply Cable kit| SilverStone PP05-E Short cable kit | $30.00 @ Amazon
Monitor | Dell P2314H 60Hz 23.0" Monitor | $171.00 @ Newegg
Wireless Network Adapter | Asus USB-N13 802.11b/g/n USB 2.0 Wi-Fi Adapter | $18.99 @ Amazon
Mouse | Logitech G402 Wired Optical Mouse | $54.99 @ NCIX US
Headphones | SteelSeries H Headset | $242.17 @ NCIX US
USB Hub| USB 3.0 HUB + SD Card | $20.00 @ Amazon
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $1920.66
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-10-22 16:27 EDT-0400 |

u/CakeDebris · 1 pointr/buildapc

Is it safe to pack away all of my EVGA G3 cables and use these instead?
The G3 ones are really bulky and my case isn’t that great for cable management.

u/SkyN3T24 · 1 pointr/hardwareswap

I have a Silverstone Strider ST85F-GS850w Gold Full Modular compact ATX power supply Link with the PP05-E Short Cable Kit ONLY Link, both in great condition in OG boxes for only $100 shipped. It was in a compact microATX case, hence the short cable kit. If you're using an ATX case, you can get nice colored sleeved extensions for cheap and they'll look awesome, lemme know

u/Route66_LANparty · 1 pointr/buildmeapc

> Thanks for the response and your input! I am certainly going to take into account the things you said regarding the PC I’m going to build.
> • CPU: My local Micro Center has the i5-4590s for $169.99 and the i7-4790s for $249.99. Do you think that the performance difference I would see between the 4590s and 4790s would be significant enough to warrant an extra $80?

  • That's a hard call. The performance improvement would be noticeable/measurable both on applications/games that support hyper-threading, and on those that are primarily single threaded as the i7 has a much higher boost clock. $80 worth? IMHO, it's only worth it if you are planning to heavily game on it at the same time Plex is streaming a transcode or two out someone else. Or if you plan to use this as your primary computer. If it's only going to be a Plex server and HTPC for 1-3 people, spare gaming machine to be used only when you have company over, and no one directly gaming on it while it's streaming, then the extra $80 for the i7 would arguably be overkill.
  • For friends and clients who could afford it. I've had them go with the i7-4790S, i7-4790, and i7-4790K when they could get the Microcenter deal. I've found it just too good a deal to pass up for primary systems.

    > • Motherboard: Just to be sure I’m correct, there is a total of 5 Sata 6GB/s ports, so this would allot for 1 SSD and 4 standard internal 3.5” drives?

  • Yes. Though you could get any H97 MiniITX motherboard with the Fractal Node. If your local Microcenter has something in stock it should work for their CPU combo.

    > • Video Card: Aside from gaming, is there any other reason you could think that I would eventually move away from the on board graphics of the CPU? When the standard for movie/tv rips becomes 4k, will a standalone video card help in any way with streaming these files to a Plex client?

  • Haven't done anything in 4K with Plex yet. Last I checked GPU transcoding support wasn't yet in Plex. Only add a video card if you want to use it for gaming as well.
  • Budget card that can do it all right now ... GTX950. Can be had for between $130-$160.

    > • Power Supply: I watched the video for the case and they said that the space can be a bit tight due to the power supply. Will the power supply you listed allow me to get 12.2” GPU clearance? Assuming I decide against gaming and this will be straight up HTPC/Plex server w/ downloading, does it make sense to go with a lower wattage PSU?

  • Fit: From the Fractal Node 304 product page "ATX PSUs, up to 160mm in length (To fit in combination with a long graphics card, PSUs with modular connectors on the back typically need to be shorter than 160 mm)". The EVGA 600B is 140mm, should leave plenty of space for a GPU. We've done our due diligence here. Specs say it should fit with plenty of room to spare. If it still doesn't fit I'd be surprised, but nothing more you could have done.
  • Wattage/Type: The EVGA is 600B is a nice quality budget power supply for the money. It's a nice wattage that isn't crazy overkill if you later add a powerful GPU for gaming. Note: The system is NOT using 600watts from the wall all the time. This is simply its maximum usage. You could get a smaller, slightly more efficient and modular unit. Combined with a short cable kit, it could make managing the cables easier in the little case. But the total $ cost would be more:
  • Silverstone Modular 500W - $70
  • Silverstone PP05E Short Cable set - $30

    > • Storage: Makes sense to go with the sata3. I originally thought that using the M.2 SSD on the Z97 Extreme4 would free up an additional port for a future HDD. But after reading further using the M.2 disabled one of the Sata3 ports anyway.

  • Correct. M.2 is only worth it if space is at an extreme premium, or if you are using a PCIe M.2 SSD that can use all that additional bandwidth like the Samsung 950 Pro (Around 2x the $$).

    > • Case: Any similar case you can recommend? My local Micro Center(Paterson NJ) is sold out of the Fractal 304 mini.

  • Doh! You can always order the Node 304 online for a $70 instead of the $60 deal Microcenter had. It's really the perfect small case for this type of build.

  • Other similar dust filtered NAS/Gaming capable cases from Lian-Li and Silverstone are a bit more expensive (also may require a smaller SFX form factor power supply):

  • Few other cases that could work, but aren't as small, quiet, and/or dust filtered as the Node 304:
  • (multiple colors, can use MicroATX motehrboards)
  • (can use MicroATX motehrboards)
  • (multiple colors)
  • (multiple colors)
  • (multiple colors)

  • Larger HTPC cases (and use larger ATX motherboards):
u/kurk231 · 1 pointr/pcmods

Did you check Otherwise, there's something like this but without the color coordination.

u/capnsharkchum · 1 pointr/buildapc

Would something like this work with this build?

u/LittleHelperRobot · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace


^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

u/metr0metr0 · 1 pointr/sffpc

Hey almost my part set!!

I'm also going for the mini ITX SG13 with a 3700X on an ASUS X570, and same power supply and memory...

I've just bought the CPU at USD 305 on NewEgg page at eBay. It could works for you and you will save 25 bucks!

Why you decided for Cooler Master Cooler? I'm thinking on Corsair H60, it's $60 on Amazon today. I had the H110iv2 for 2 years and never got any issue, CPU was always fresh.

For GPU I'm still on the fence for a 2060/2060 Super or 2070 it all depends on Black Friday deals, let's hope we see good prices!

I still don't get the parts, but accordingly to what I've read, everyone seems to also recommend "SilverStone short power cable set" as it seems that will facilitate what's already a tight place.

Don't know if it will work OK, I hope it will but I'm interested on knowing about the progress of your build anyway!

Good luck with your build, I hope my two cents could be useful!

u/foeyloozer · 1 pointr/buildapcforme

[PCPartPicker Part List](




**CPU** | [AMD - Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor]( | $329.00 @ B&H

**CPU Cooler** | [Corsair - H100i RGB PLATINUM SE 63 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler]( | $169.99 @ Corsair

**Motherboard** | [Gigabyte - X570 I AORUS PRO WIFI Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard]( | $219.99 @ Newegg

**Memory** | [Corsair - Vengeance RGB Pro 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory]( | $94.99 @ Amazon

**Storage** | [Samsung - 970 Evo 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive]( | $169.99 @ B&H

**Video Card** | [Gigabyte - GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER 8 GB GAMING OC WHITE Video Card]( | $535.25 @ Newegg

**Case** | [Corsair - Crystal 280X MicroATX Mid Tower Case]( | $85.98 @ Newegg

**Power Supply** | [EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply]( | $79.89 @ OutletPC

| *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* |

| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1720.08

| Mail-in rebates | -$35.00

| **Total** | **$1685.08**

| Generated by [PCPartPicker]( 2019-07-11 00:54 EDT-0400 |




Could not find a suitable power supply with white cables. So there is the g3 which is fully modular. If you really want white cables, there are some on amazon, but they will cost you more money. Overall I went with your white + rgb theme. Any questions or suggestions from fellow builders will be appreciated.

u/johnnytron · 1 pointr/hardwareswap

EVGA G2/G3/P2/T2 100-CW-1300-B9 Power Supply Cable Set (Individually Sleeved), White

u/NULLstalgic · 1 pointr/nvidia

Oh got it. Well I ended up finding the cables kit for the G2 EVGA PSU on Amazon sold by EVGA and another by CableMod and BitFenix. CableMod looks really nice, but I don't think I wanna risk it, best bet being directly from EVGA.

u/Rifful · 1 pointr/buildapc

Same, my EVGA 750 G2 came in black, but I did pay extra for a separate set of white cables from Amazon here:

Looks like they have three versions though, so if you're going to go for it, make sure you buy the ones matching your PSU.

u/AutoModerator · 1 pointr/appleswap

Remember: Always be cautious when using payment methods other than PayPal Goods and Services.

Title: [USA-TX][H]2018 Custom High End Gaming System [W] Top of line 2018 MacBook Pro 15, i9, with AC+

Username: /u/nizmoz


I am wanting to switch back to Mac, and have my custom gaming system built my me a 25 year IT Professional. I am looking to trade for the MBP in the subject. If interested, please PM me. We will need to do a Paypal hold of the amount depending which direction the equipment goes for the trade and then refund it back once the swap is done.

Computer stuff:

1.      Acer Predator XB271HU 27" WQHD IPS NVIDIA G-Sync Black/Red Gaming Monitor, 2560 x 1440 (2K)

2.      ASUS ROG-STRIX-GTX1080TI-O11G-GAMING GeForce 11GB OC Edition VR Ready 5K HD Gaming HDMI DisplayPort DVI Overclocked PC GDDR5X Graphics Card

3.      NZXT S340VR Elite Computer Case , Matte White (CA-S340W-W2)

4.      ASUS ROG MAXIMUS X CODE S LGA1151 DDR4 DP HDMI M.2 Z370 ATX Motherboard

5.      EVGA G2/G3/P2/T2 100-CW-1300-B9 Power Supply Cable Set (Individually Sleeved), White

6.      24 Pieces Set = 24-pin x 4, 8-pin x 12, 6-pin x 8 Cable Comb for 3 mm Cable Gesleeved Up To 3.4 mm/0.13inch) black

7.      NZXT RF-AR140-C1 HUE+ & Aer RGB140 Fans Bundle Pack RGB 2x 140mm Aer Fans Included

8.      NZXT Internal USB Hub Controller, Black (AC-IUSBH-M1)

9.      NZXT HUE+ Extension Kit (AC-HPL03-10)

10.  NZXT Aer RGB120 Single Pack RF-AR120-B1 120mm Digitally Controlled RGB LED Fans for HUE+

11.  EVGA SuperNOVA 750 G3, 80 Plus Gold 750W, Fully Modular, Eco Mode with New HDB Fan, 10 Year Warranty, Includes Power ON Self Tester, Compact 150mm Size, Power Supply 220-G3-0750-X1

12.  Intel BX80684I78700K Core i7-8700K 3.7GHz 6-Core Processor

13.  NZXT RL-KRX62-02 Kraken X62 280mm All-in-one Water/Liquid CPU Cooling with Software Controlled RGB Lighting

14.  G.SKILL TridentZ RGB 16GB (2 x 8GB) 288-Pin SDRAM DDR4 3200 (PC4 25600) Memory F4-3200C16D-16GTZR

15.  Samsung 960 EVO Series - 250GB PCIe NVMe - M.2 Internal SSD MZ-V6E250BW

16.  Samsung 860 EVO 1TB 2.5 inch SATA III SSD




I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please contact the moderators of this subreddit if you have any questions or concerns.

u/Pattches_Ohoulihan · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

I picked up one of these [(not trying to plug this brand just example)](LoveRPi MicroUSB Push On Off Power Switch Cable for Raspberry Pi (Female to Male)

u/HAVEANOTHERDRINKRAY · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi
u/Mistrblank · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

Mine was triggering off a logitech unifying receiver and wifi running OpenElec with a 2.0A USB charger. That said, it's a charger not a supply.

That said, I bought a Canakit 2.5A power supply and this switch:

I haven't experienced the low power/voltage warnings on this setup.

u/onji · 1 pointr/RetroPie

Yep CanaKit is awesome, do yourself a favor and add this to the cart as well.
Stops the wear and tear for the power jack.

u/borkthenork · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

This is the switch I purchased for my Pi. I like it a lot and it is inexpensive, comparatively.


u/Fr0zEnSoLiD · 1 pointr/buildapc

Hey I am getting a 7950 gpu, but the only computer I have to put it in is an old dell prebuilt. I was looking at the power cables and they dont even have the 6/8 pins, only the molex power. I think 320W max. Should I buy this or do I need a whole new psu?

u/ed1ted · 1 pointr/gpumining

I am using SATA to power my risers. I just ordered to replace SATA connector

u/Uncle_Gamer · 1 pointr/Amd

Do not know why people are over complicating this:


This will solve your issue.


The 4+4 pin is NOT the same pinout as a GPU power and will damage your card if you force it to fit.

u/Araragi · 1 pointr/nvidia

Two options: Buy a new power supply (I recommend this one. The price is killer, and the reviews excellent.

Or just get this cable. You'll be fine.

Take one 4 pin MOLEX from one cable line and another 4 pin MOLEX from a different cable line (don't use two MOLEX connectors on the same cable. This is silly, and defeats the purpose of having two connectors).

u/surrplz · 1 pointr/EtherMining

are you talking about 6-pin to molex or about this 6-pin to two molex?

u/Bayminer · 1 pointr/Ravencoin

Here is a good riser

To power the risers use 6 pin from your PSU or if you don’t have enough put two molex from your PSU into these

u/greg7mdp · 1 pointr/EtherMining

Are your risers powered by a molex? Mine have a 6pin connector and I use these to avoid overheating.

u/eth03 · 1 pointr/EtherMining

Thanks, so it looks like the EVGA PSU's come with a 6 pin power connector to Molex cable, each cable has 3 molex connectors. My riser cards use 6 pin PCIE power. So i will just throw out the 6 pin to SATA cables that came with it, get these 6 pin to molex adapters instead , and then connect those to the molex to 6 pin cables labeled "perif" to the perif ports on the PSU.

Update: I am just going to make this simple, use molex powered riser cards, and connect them straight to the PSU using the factory provided EVGA 6-pin to 3xMolex cables to power 3 riser cards each. EVGA 1300 has two perif ports so that is enough to power 6 riser cards. all my GPU's have their own dedicated connection to the PSU using the VGA ports and the included VGA power cables.

u/hopefulyHuman · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

a quick google search found these the reviews seem good so it's a fairly safe bet I'd think

u/stlx359 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Hello. I want to change my GPU soon. Currently running R9 380 with 2x6 pin. I am looking for 1060 or 580. If I get 1060 there's no problem, because it uses only one 6 pin. However 580 uses one 8 pin, but my PSU doesn't have one. Can I buy some adapter (like this one), will it work? Do you have any recommendations?

u/senorroboto · 1 pointr/buildapc

Oh, well plenty of those cables exist if you've already found that to work, if I understand correctly:

u/MexicanGuey · 1 pointr/buildapc

A computer I'm building only has 6 pin power connectors. If I want to use an RX480 RX470, Which has 8 pin slot, can I use

Will it power it or cause any problems?


Also my PSU is 460w max. recommened PSU size for a RX480 is 500w. Will I still be ok? Ok looks like I dont have enough power for an RX480. The rx470 only required 450w. So back to my original question. Can I use 6 to 8 point connectors?

FYI. Building a budget PC from spare parts I have lying around the house/office.

u/misterjbn · 1 pointr/MoneroMining

You're correct; EVGA does not give enough 8+8 pin cables. I ordered 2 extra from them (I think it was $20 shipped for two).


Then I order these for their 6 pins to convert to 8+8:


Then for their 6+8 cables, I had to buy these to convert to 8+8:


Most risers are powered by molex and not PCIE; I think there was one or two powered by PCIE.

u/perfectivs100 · 1 pointr/EtherMining
u/gorckat · 1 pointr/buildapc

My daughter built her PC about 2 years ago. We just started trying to play rocket league, but it reboot the pc on loading.

I think I found the problem, but confirming it has been tricky.

She has a Sapphire R9 280 (not 280x) with 2 6-pin connectors on it. It has been connected to a 6-pin plug on the PSU, but it is labeled SATA. I think we need a couple 6-pin to 8-pin connectors for full power the GPU, like these:

I'm guessing that the GPU has been underpowered and Rocket League is the first game pulling hard on it and it is causing the PC to reboot. Skyrim, Fallout 4 and other games have never caused this problem.

u/apoppin · 1 pointr/nvidia

If you are not going to replace your PSU, the RTX 1650s that come without a power connector are the fastest cards.

But if you are certain your PSU is good enough, you can use a molex adapter with a faster card:

u/megustareddito · 1 pointr/buildapc

Something like this if you have spare 4 pins.

u/trix4rix · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Of course. Molex uses 12v, pcie uses 12v. Molex is rated at 75w, pcie 6 pin is rated at 150w. 2 molex = 6 pin pcie. If you're in the US, here's an amazon link.

u/CryptoMatttt · 1 pointr/NiceHash

Yikes, that is rather close for 6x1070s. I would have bought a 1200W PSU just to be safe, as this one will be running at almost 100% capacity 24/7. You can always use a Molex to 6-pin adapter like the one shown here on Amazon. I would avoid adapting SATA to 6-pin if possible though, those can be a fire hazard if you are drawing too much current. If you are out of spots on the actual PSU, you can use a splitter, but again, make sure to be careful you are not pulling too much current or it could pose a fire hazard.

Next time, remember to take your total system TDP and multiply by at least 1.3 to properly size your power supply. In your case, 6x150w for the 6 1070s, then add an extra 50 watts for the cpu. So your sytem TDP is about 950. 950 * 1.3 = 1235. So, you should have gone with a 1200W power supply. If you still have the box, maybe return it and size up a bit.

If you found this information helpful, please donate to me at 35X6priTi9P8aseAjnyQGUNg5guKtU3hH7.

u/A_very_meriman · 1 pointr/Amd

I'm sorry, I don't think I understand. But I'm using a 2 separate power cables. One of them is straight from the PSU and the other is via a Molex to 8-pin cable. This one right here:

u/Investinwaffl3s · 1 pointr/homelab
u/Bjandthekatz · 1 pointr/NiceHash

It's an adapter, here's a link . I've purchased one from this seller and it works well

u/drzoidberg33 · 1 pointr/buildapc

The one linked in the OP looks like a bad idea. There should be 2 molex to a single 8-pin PCIe connector and 4 wires coming off each molex connector to ensure it's enough to carry that amount of current. Something like these will be safer:

u/ShadowFallsAlpha · 1 pointr/computers

You are looking for something like this:

These are PCI Express power cables (PCIe) There are several types 6-pin or 8-pin, there are both ones to use Molex or SATA power cables. You probably are better off with a properly equipped power supply though. If yours didn't come with these connectors, it will probably get pretty stressed from the video card it wasn't designed to handle. Some just include one connector, to not have any, the power supply must be pretty old or cheap. It would be a better investment in my opinion to sink the money into a decent bronze series or better PSU than some cables.

u/not12listen · 1 pointr/Amd

As long as the power supply has enough juice, this would solve the other potential issue.

u/Thatisdifficult · 1 pointr/buildapc

You need something like this molex adapter to get your graphics card to work with your power supply.

As for the amount of wattage needed for overclocking. In this case, it's not necessarily the amount you should worry about, but rather the quality of the components. Unfortunately, your brand of power supply has very low component quality. A high quality 550W PSU would be more than enough for an overclocked RX 5700 XT.

u/Student_Arthur · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

So like this?

And then connect one molex to the PSU, and then plug these two into that, and those into the GPU?

u/svenge · 1 pointr/buildapc

It would help to know the model of MSI RX 580 you're referring to, the model of the power supply, and the exact nature of the power adapter you're using (e.g. Molex to PCIe 8-pin, etc.)

u/Lab-O-Matic · 1 pointr/Amd
u/jigglytrips · 1 pointr/EtherMining

I've seen a couple of people say molex to molex, not sure how that would work? There are only 6/8 pin slots on the PSU itself

Cables would look something like this, except I can't find the female version

u/techietalkonline1 · 1 pointr/techsupport

Yes, you would need to replace it. But you'll also need to experiment and find out if it's the reset or power switch (i'm willing to bet power). It can be replaced with something like this, but i'm not sure if you're be able to install the switch in the existing case. Sometimes the button is specific to the case and can't be replaced (unless you were to drill a new hole in it or something)

u/recklessbaboon · 1 pointr/PcMasterRaceBuilds

Make sure you flip the switch on the back of the PSU.

Reseat the RAM.

When using the screwdriver to turn on the PC without a button, make sure its the correct pins, otherwise you could short it. Check the manual for the correct pins.

or just get one of these buttons

u/phigo50 · 1 pointr/EtherMining

Look at Mr. Fancypants over here! I use these ones myself.

u/Superlolz · 1 pointr/Corsair

How exactly did you accomplish it though? Is the front panel RGB a set of plugs exactly like the PW switch? Or did you have to buy another set of wires like and wire it in yourself?

u/jhalls13 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Yeah it should be fine on the motherboard box, it is also useful for mounting the heatsink, specially if you have a cramped case.

Using a flat head screwdriver against the pins should be fine, they also make little power switches that you can plugin and use just for the power button, they are handy.

u/ed7coyne · 1 pointr/Cartalk

Desolder the button and solder another one on. Good time to learn some basic soldering. Since it's broken now anyway you don't have much to lose trying. A cheap soldering iron, some solder wick, some tweezers and YouTube should do it.

If you wanted to get shitty with it you don't have to remove the old button and could just solder something like this to the contacts on the old button:

u/SEND-ME-YOUR_TITS · 1 pointr/Dynavap

If you wanted to do this with batteries, you'd just use 3x 18650s that are rated at 10A or more continuous current. You'd also want a leaflet holder, and some 18AWG wire. Probably a 4 slot charger, too. A soldering iron is recommended, with this holder you'll need to connect the battery pins yourself. The same case would be perfect. For added coolness you could use a button to trigger the heater, so it'll turn on when you insert your dyna and off when you remove it. You'd just need to make sure there's something separating the cap from the button so it won't melt. I used a little wooden cylinder I made.

u/forgotPasswordBBCB · 1 pointr/funny

Something it tells me it would be more expensive than $4.99 for an Apple PWR Button!


"We are taking the courage to ditch the power button, now you only have to turn it off with a hand gesture and on with a hello!"

*Apple iMac needs online connection at all times in order to see your hand gestures and hear you say commands, you will need a PWR Button™ in order to toggle off the microphone and webcam in iOS. **See our Privacy Policy for concerns.


Order our advanced Privacy Wired Remote today!, The new PWR Button will fully shutdown your computer and turn it on again at the push of a PWR Button !

u/Jesso2k · 1 pointr/CableManagement

A 200mm Riser cable:

My case, the 570x Mirror Black, has the appropriate mount on the back panel to stick the gpu that way. Just needed a pci riser cable to connect it to the motherboard, 200mm is just enough to reach the top pci port on the motherboard.

u/Triggyrd · 1 pointr/NZXT look at the reviews and pictures. I think brackets would ruin the look. Trust me. Watch reviews with this specific cable it’s really good. My friend uses it on his h500i and it’s amazing

u/Its_Me_That_Dude · 1 pointr/buildapc

It'll fit. My strix 1080 is a bit longer than your 2070 and there's still a decent gap for a longer GPU.

The case has the mounting built in, but you will have to buy a pcie extender cable like this to plug it in.

Also be aware that in vertical mount you'll have worse GPU temps as the fans sit very close to the glass.

u/twigpigpog · 1 pointr/watercooling

The case has mounting points to position it that way. You then use an extension (riser) to connect it to the motherboard.

u/snuggy4life · 1 pointr/gamingpc

Thermaltake TT Gaming PCI-E x16 3.0 Black Extender Riser Cable 200mm AC-053-CN1OTN-C1

You’ll also need a mounting bracket (some cases have one built in) and need to make sure there is enough room.

u/AbysmalVixen · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

You can’t find a riser cable?

Literally go on amazon and type pcie x16 riser

u/OolonCaluphid · 1 pointr/HardwareSwapUK

Do you have the frame?

You can buy PCIe riser ribons on amazon for £30. Might be an easier option.


u/cooperd9 · 1 pointr/buildapc

The 300mm is going to have a lot of slack and flop around. Also, thermaltake risers have good reviews, you just have to check elsewhere

u/RaRoC · 1 pointr/Phanteks

Yeah, but could you only use the one from them? What about the on from Thermaltake or did Phanteks made the holes so you can only use their?

Thermaltake TT Gaming PCI-E x16 3.0 Black Extender Riser Cable 200mm AC-053-CN1OTN-C1

u/tendogy · 1 pointr/buildapc

You know, you could just get a cheap case to hold only the GPU. Something like:

for $37 shipped, and then a riser for $27 to bridge between the two

and you're back in the game. That's still $64 more though, which sucks. Also, sorry about this whole situation. It sucks to be hyped for a new GPU and it won't fit.

How much clearance do you need? Like is it just a mm too long, or a whole inch, or what?

edit: I saw the video you posted, but the fan is still in the way. It looks like you're only a few MM short if you took the fan out, is that right?

u/johnnyp42 · 1 pointr/computers

Not really. Plugging into the slot isn't the problem, it's that the card won't physically fit inside the case. Those slim cases are usually crammed full, even if you got a riser card or one of those extensions there's just nowhere inside the case the card will fit.

I suppose you could get something like this and just leave the card sitting on your desk outside the computer.

u/ScubaSteve7886 · 1 pointr/buildapc

You'll need a PCIe riser cable.

Thermaltake makes good riser cables.

Just know that vertical mounts can hurt GPU performance due to lack of airflow next to the glass side panel.

u/zombieshy_guy82 · 1 pointr/pchelp

It's kinda like an extention for pcie slots, you just plug it into your pcie slot and you can plug in your gpu into the riser so you wouldnt have to cut your case

Here's a link to one if that helps: Thermaltake TT Gaming PCI-E x16 3.0 Black Extender Riser Cable 200mm AC-053-CN1OTN-C1

u/Spiderboule · 1 pointr/Corsair

Thermaltake 200mm PCI-e riser, It is a good one but I would suggest you to take a 300mm at least !

u/DemigodOfThe21st · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

First, I would want to check to see what the speed of the wifi connection is inside the student housing. That card seems to me to be way overdoing it. I would recommend something more like this, especially if you're going to primarily using public wifi.

Then again, the first one isn't that much more, and it would be a lot more future proof for down the road.

And you can definitely use a PCIe riser, just be sure not to cheap out on it, and try to get by with as short a one as possible. ThermalTake is usually pretty good

u/Nach0Nacho0 · 1 pointr/buildapc
u/Amat17 · 1 pointr/buildapc

I use the same one for my cpu cooler this will work perfect just make fire all three of the fans are the same.

PWM Fan Splitter Adapter Cable Sleeved Braided Y Splitter Computer PC 4 Pin Fan Extension Power Cable 1 to 3 Converter 10 inches (2 Pack) TeamProfitcom

u/Riggs909 · 1 pointr/buildapc

I was more eyeing this one since reviews have verified it will work with 4 pins. You see any issues?

u/cf18 · 1 pointr/buildapc
u/xalejo_o · 1 pointr/iBUYPOWER

This the splitter i used-
PWM Fan Splitter, TeamProfitcom Adapter Cable Sleeved Braided Y Splitter Computer PC 4 Pin Fan Extension Power Cable 1 to 3 Converter 10 inches (2 Pack)

u/federal38 · 1 pointr/NZXT

> There are three fan headers on the motherboard. Case, AIO and CPU. I have connected the case fan to the case header (obvs) and the X42 to the CPU port. Is this correct, or should I use the AIO port?

You should have connected the case fan to the case header, which you did. So that's good.

The X42 fans should go to the CPU port on the motherboard. Then, the fans for your X42 should plug directly into the three-fan splitter coming out of the Kraken X42.


> I would like to add an additional 2 case fans, but the only free port I have now is the AIO fan port. I also noticed there is a spare port on the X42 cable. How should I add multiple additional fans to this setup?

You should most definitely not connect extra case fans to the extra port on the X42 cable. This would cause your CPU fans and case fan(s) to spin at the same speed. Not ideal. You would want to order a fan splitter such as this one and connect it to your case fan header. I believe it's labeled CHA_FAN1 for Chassis Fan 1.


> In terms of airflow, how should I set the case up? Currently, the front fan is pushing air inwards and the X42 is also pulling inwards. Is this correct? If I added two more at the rear of case, the intention is for these to exhaust...

Fan configuration is a commonly debated topic, and it usually depends on a variety of factors such as case size, size of fan, etc. but this is how I have mine set up.


I have my Kraken fixed at the front of the case, with fans on the inside pulling air into the case from the Kraken. This means that hot air is being pulled into the case from the Kraken radiator. After that, I have three 120mm fans at the top of the case pushing out hot air for an exhaust, and one 140mm fan at the back exhausting air as well. It's a good setup for me, and I would advise you to mix and match different fan configurations to find what suits you best.


Good luck,


u/kirawin · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

Thanks for the post! Before this sale, I decided on getting this: PWM Fan Splitter Adapter Cable... for my 6 LL120 fans. Works the same and cheaper

u/fatpolomanjr · 1 pointr/sffpc

I'm looking for the thread where this was mentioned but everything I'm reading supports all three fans being able to be run from the same header. The guideline is max 1 amp and 15 Watts for all three fans total, and these 92mm slim fans are rated at 0.11A and 1.32W. Do I need a dedicated 3-way splitter like this, or can I get away with two y-cables linked together? I'll probably order the 3-way splitter since it looks so much cleaner, or if you have any recommended brand/splitter.

u/Wilogana · 1 pointr/buildapc

I want to buy 6 of these fans.

My plan is to put 3 on the top of my case as exhaust and the other 3 on the bottom as intake, but my mobo doesn't have enough fan ports (Asus - Prime X470-Pro ATX AM4). I plan on hooking each set of 3 fans to two separate fan ports because I checked the amps and it should be ok. However I see that these fans have this connector on them.

Can I hook all three fans together using that connector? Or do I have to purchase a cable splitter like this one?

u/jayroo · 0 pointsr/sonos

Looks good but if you’re not renting I would spend the $40 and completely hide the cables in the wall. Using a kit like this one makes it look that much cleaner.

u/westom · 0 pointsr/explainlikeimfive

The low voltage cord is safe. A flexible high voltage cable is more dangerous. Problem is not the power bricks. Problem is that badly designed power strip. It is made dangerous if it contains near zero joule protector parts.

Be more concerned about those parts that create a fire. Since protector parts should only exist if a 'whole house' protector exists to protect them. If that power strip is badly designed, then some UL listed power cords can be obtained that are maybe 6 inches long such as this:

u/nerdthatlift · 0 pointsr/buildapc

Oh man, I misread this. 6-pins from PSU won't be able to provide enough power. You'll probably need something like this

u/looncraz · -2 pointsr/Amd
u/Renigami · -3 pointsr/Surface

So replace the cord with this, and don't pay the Apple Industrial Design tax

I hate to jab designs, but with Apple's method, you HAVE TO expect them to provide any and all adapters and cords under the sun for differing regions (or have accessory OEMs jump on the bandwagon), ADDING TO THE WHOLE BOTTOM LINE. Plus the whole design aspect of incorporating differing standards and plugs OUTSIDE of the power AC adapter's electrical standards for differing regions.

In short, not different in application methods either way, the ONLY regard is how "pretty" that outlet space looks... WHICH DOESN'T matter! Who the fuck would look at the plugs at a wall and go "ARTISTIC!" almost all the time and awe at it? And it doesn't solve a fundamental functional problem if two users come with the same paradigm of a power brick to a wall (AND even if you have them both sideways, the weight no doubt would be an issue too OR space with furniture or other things near the outlets).

And with either method, one still would have to be prone to travel with the cord or adapter, meaning a decision and action every time one leaves their residence to pack (that doesn't lessen EASE), which would just end up the user just carrying both, meaning more bulk, rather than a cord that can simply wind around the box and be closer to the box and the wall (unwrapping if needed cord length than be reliant on Apple's end of making sure the cord from the adapter to the device is long enough).

Microsoft AND OTHER OEMs (possibly) got this right in this regard, in at least for the physical connectivity, without burdening all the risk of production and implementation costs, while having the modularity that some desire.

Yes, the box CAN be designed to incorporate hooks and fasteners. My Dell Inspiron 15 of many many years back (a decade!) has included a cord wrap and the box is slightly contoured concave for the cord to nicely wind around in that direction and hell even the Surface power adapter has a small, but adequate snap for the adapter to device cord... BUT for another "prettiness" Industrial Design tradeoff, Microsoft decided to simply go with a matching rectangular box.

If anything, the cord from the adapter to the wall should be longer, and the cord to the device shorter (thus making the USB power port more accessible too rather than being in the middle and on the floor at many times condensing floor cabling). That would be a good tradeoff if one can switch cords to the device.

All you are INDEED paying for with the above to this comment, is the Industrial Design tax.... And those that cannot reason beyond initial emotional appeal will never get this.