Best audio & video selector boxes according to redditors
We found 2,385 Reddit comments discussing the best audio & video selector boxes. We ranked the 458 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 2,385 Reddit comments discussing the best audio & video selector boxes. We ranked the 458 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Sure! We have two switches, an AV(?) switch for NES through Gamecube like this one (We bought ours at Fry's) and an HDMI switch off Amazon, although you can get a better deal if you don't care about having a wireless controller to switch between different inputs.
(Is AV = Composite = RCA? They're all Red-White-Yellow, right? lol)
It's not a splitter, you're looking for a switch. And yes, they exist on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Awakelion-Switcher-Wireless-adapter-Supports/dp/B06WV5YJ6H/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1509739924&sr=8-3&keywords=hdmi+switch+hdr
I use it, works great.
Acxtually I think you'd want this guy
What you linked to is for watching one feed on two tv's.
All 16 consoles are set up to work with just a few button presses. As well as my PC which used this to switch between my monitor and the TV. I use this component switch, this HDMI switch, and this S-Video switch.
https://www.amazon.ca/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y
I love that they auto swap input. Genius
You want to make one?
I wouldn't know where to begin.
But here is a sweet 3 port HDMI switch that has IR.
Kinivo 301BN Premium 3 port High speed HDMI switch with IR wireless remote and AC Power adapter - supports 3D, 1080p
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049S6ZUS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_e6OQub1RJAXN9
For me, and I completely understand that this is a full throttle first world problem, it's about clutter and inputs. I already have 4 HDMI devices "connected" to a 3 HDMI input TV - and have to go pull cords when I want to use the extra one. A 5th would just add to that annoyance. That plus, more controllers I'd have to have laying around, more TV cabinet space I'd need to have to fit both devices... I understand these aren't deal breaking obstacles, but it would be nice to just replace one system with another and that be that.
Edit: took everyone's advice and got a switch. Just arrived: http://i.imgur.com/aDvMzUD.jpg
Here's the details of what I went with, for anyone curious:
Kinivo 501BN Premium 5 port High speed HDMI switch with IR wireless remote and AC Power adapter - supports 3D, 1080p
http://amzn.com/B0049SCB2Y
Raspberry Pi 3
Raspberry Pi Clear Case
32GB MicroSD Card
Netatmo Weather Station
Wind Gauge
Rain Gauge
Rain/Wind Gauge mounts
3 Way HDMI Switch
1FT HDMI Cable
Wifi Adapter
Everything is attached to the back of the television with some double sided sticky paper things i had lying around. Anything will probably work.
The USB wall outlet is one that delivers 3.1A at 5V that we bought from our local hardware store.
The server that the software runs on is a poweredge r710 with dual x5670s and 64GB of ram. Of course, this isnt all it does, but it is one of the many things i host on it. :)
If you'd like, i can post the scripts i wrote for it as well.
Your best option is to plug directly into your receiver if it has an HDMI port. If it does but they are full, you can get an external switch to change sources, like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B46XUQU/. If neither of those options work, an audio extractor is your next option, like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BIQER0E/. This will still output HDMI video, but also send the digital audio out an optical port so you still get surround sound, though you will probably get a few milliseconds of lag, probably nothing too noticeable. In the magical event you don't even have optical, it still has stereo outputs which, for music, will be just fine.
There's a couple third party hardware pieces that are basically an array of inputs and you physically "switch" to the one you want being sent to the TV. Thankfully there aren't many that use HDMI so we avoid having to figure that out (though I'm sure there are solutions).
I think the one he uses is this: https://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Switcher-Composite-Selector-Consoles/dp/B00KXVBB7C
this is what you need http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-301BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049S6ZUS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1426258307&sr=8-2&keywords=hdmi+switcher
HDMI hub to the rescue! http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1374698119&sr=8-2&keywords=hdmi+hub
This is the one I'm using:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DRGDBTG/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
GameCube and Game Boy Player is the standard setup. The startup disc for the Game Boy Player can be a bit pricey these days, but you can softmod the GameCube and use the free Game Boy Interface software as an alternative.
From there, you can get an HDMI adapter and HDMI capture card (lots of those to choose from). Or if you need to save some money, a good S-Video capture device like the IO Data GV-USB2, an S-Video splitter, and a GameCube S-Video cable will still get you a pretty decent-looking capture. Either way, set it up in OBS and you're good to go.
I'd suggest also getting an SNES controller adapter. I find it way nicer than using the GBA as a controller. There's also one for Wii Classic Controllers if you prefer.
Get a GV-USB2 capture card! It's basically the go-to for standard definition console gaming.
He'll also need a video/audio splitter. I use this one and it works wonderfully. You'll need an extra set of composite cables as well. (That's just an example. Get whatever will ship on time for you)
If he wants to stream on twitch, consider getting him a webcam and mic. Let me know what your budget is and I can recommend some options for you.
DotStone HDMI Switch Bi-direction 4K HDMI Splitter 2 x 1/1 x 2 No External Power Required 2 Ports HDMI Switcher Supports Ultra HD 4K 3D 1080P for PS4 Xbox Fire Stick Roku https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8LLP2G/
I have the single running to one of my monitors, the duals run to my PS4 and PC. Then my second monitor runs straight to my PC.
Not OP but I have a bunch of these hooked up and I’ve never had any issues with them. You don’t have to pay much :/.
I have some hooked up to an hdmi audio extractor with an RCA -> AUX cable into my PC’s Microphone port, which I have set to ‘Listen To’ in Windows 10, so any audio coming from the HDMI source gets routed through my PC. $35 vs ~$150 for OPs capture card method :P. Though, if your motherboard or sound card support SPDIF input, you should use that instead (this extractor does both).
Stay away from your second link, I got one of those and had trouble with it. I ran my PS3 through it and it would "black out" for a second or two every few minutes. Made gaming a pain in the ass. I attributed it to the fact that it leached power from the HDMI and didn't actually have a power pack. If that was indeed the case I would be cautions of the first option as well.
I ended up replacing mine with this and it has been working flawlessly.
Convert the optical to analog.
https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B00KNNSKV0/
and maybe this... but a splitter would work too.
https://www.amazon.com/STEREO-Manual-Speaker-selector-available/dp/B073GWCRP3/
I don't know of a way to auto turn off the soundbar when you get sound.
However; you may get AV lag/sync issues when trying to convert to analog.
Many soundbars and pretty much any recent AV receiver will have HDMI ports, so you can run audio with no TV turned on. In my situation the new CC would be able to replace my current setup where I have a CC for video and a CCA for audio only + zone 2.
In your use case, it sounds like the CC + CCA is a better choice.
You don't have more than one input to the speakers?
https://www.amazon.com/STEREO-Manual-Speaker-selector-available/dp/B073GWCRP3
Also: it takes way longer to burn-in anything than I would assume you would be listening to soundcloud for a stretch. Even on an old plasma, it took many, many hours for that to happen.
$10 on Amazon and it doesn't need power. Can be used as a 2-1 or a 1-2 switch. It's small, made of metal, and the light is not super bright. Works with 4K signals. I use it to connect my Nintendo Switch and GPDXD+ to the X1S.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8LLP2G/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_1LB6AbYDGG4D3
Here's one for $10 with no code that actually has reviews
Console goes into the boy, cable one goes to the CRT, cable two goes to the capture card.
Stream with OBS. It's a shining beacon of free software that everybody from the nooberest of noobs to the biggest of names all use.
A hdmi switch like this or this will fix that issue.
I'm using a Kinivo 301BN 3 Port switcher with my PS3 and PS4. Works fine, plus it switches to the console you turn on automatically (most of the time, anyway).
A splitter would not work in this situation. You need an active HDMI selector switch, tons of them on Amazon if you search for that. This one seems to be pretty popular: https://smile.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/
An HDMI input switcher is only, like, $10 extra.. e.g. http://www.amazon.com/Portta-PET0301S-HDMI-Switcher-Support/dp/B00B46XUQU
No it isn't. If you are using a low end consumer grade controller with RCA outputs going to powered speakers just put a switchbox inbetween and hook your phone up. One flick of the switch and it changes the input to the phone:
http://www.amazon.com/3-Way-Switch-Selector-Splitter-XBOX360/dp/B004T8KZCM
just ignore the yellow / video cable input.
Fosmon HD1832 Intelligent 5x1 5-Port HDMI Switch/Switcher with IR Remote and AC Adapter Supports 3D https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008D6YZXG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_XeDIxbGNHG5P9
Get a switch with remote.
Also, who buys a TV with only 1 HDMI port?
https://www.amazon.com/MT-VIKI-Splitter-Selector-Adapter-MT-831AV/dp/B00DRGDBTG/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1493400393&sr=8-9&keywords=av+switch
Yes, i use my phone as a hotspot.
I hardwired one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/ONLINE-LED-STORE-Automotive-Extension/dp/B00PXAN1DU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1527657371&sr=8-2&keywords=hardwire+cigarette+lighter
Then i put in a 5-volt usb charger with two ports. One for the raspberry pi and the other for the firestick. Then i bought this splitter:
https://www.amazon.com/Switcher-Bi-direction-Hub-HDCP-Passthrough-Supports-DotStone/dp/B01L8LLP2G/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1527657426&sr=1-7&keywords=hdmi+splitter
All cables are hidden so it looks very clean.
Google 3.5mm ab switch. Something like this :
2 PORT 3.5mm STEREO Manual Switch Box AUX Audio Speaker selector(Wall Mount Hole Built-in, wall or table available) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073GWCRP3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ul.uCbVS1D1X7
That will let you choose what input device you want. You can probably get by with just a Y-splitter from there to your speakers.
For everyone who is worried about their hardware...
If you need more ports, I have 2 of these. Solid build quality and work like a charm. The only annoyance is the auto-switching which can't be turned off. My Chromecast decided to randomly reboot twice now while I was playing God of War and it switched over to that input. Guess what's in my drawer now!
Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/STEREO-Manual-Speaker-selector-available/dp/B073GWCRP3/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1509721642&sr=8-3&keywords=audio+switch&dpID=31Rn3KyybiL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-A1602-Splitter-Connecting-Devices/dp/B00HNCPR92/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1509721642&sr=8-7&keywords=audio+switch&dpID=519o-1mxIFL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-28750-Composite-Selector/dp/B0032ANC8M?ie=UTF8&keywords=s%20video%20switch&qid=1463513498&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1
i use this one, it works fine and i haven't had any issues with it. also, your SNES will have the most improvement over your other consoles, like a real noticeable difference. the N64 and Gamecube will have slightly better resolutions, but mostly just better colors.
OP, be careful with the suggestions given by /u/JeremiS55. If you are running HDMI from the PS4 you will need a powered switch - unpowered switches tend to have trouble with the PS4's HDMI output. Here is an example.
I have a similar setup at home, here is what I do:
This lets me hear audio from the console while also listening to music or watching movies on my PC. The audio output won't "switch" with the HDMI switch - not a cohesive, single-output solution - but it's pretty easy to turn off the PC speakers if they're not wanted.
Edit: I use this switch which I bought at Best Buy after having issues with my unpowered switch. I wouldn't necessarily recommend it over other options for your needs but it suits mine just fine.
I use this:
http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411660653&sr=8-1&keywords=kinivo+hdmi
You can get it in 5 or 3 ports...I have a PS3, PS4, Xbox One, Wii U and a Roku 3 plugged into it...works well.
This looks like it should work for your needs.
Here is the Schiit product I mentioned. It might be worth looking into it to see if you can get it cheaper or something though. Monoprice might have something similar.
Splitters in the traditional sense are for taking one signal and "splitting it" to multiple TV's.
What you need is an HDMI Switch box, similar to this;
http://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-HD1831-3-Port-Switch-Pigtail/dp/B008GVOVK0/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1448999505&sr=1-4&keywords=hdmi+switch
edited link
Oh, I get it. This would be a much cheaper option than that sound card: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G188Z7A/
Use one of these. Run it backwards ;)
Rca splitters or selectors. Super cheap ones on Amazon, or shell out a bit more for a nicer one.
Like this: Hosa YRA-104 RCA to Dual RCAF Y-Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O4Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JOz7xbWBZ5BPZ
Or: Fosmon Technology 3-Way Audio / Video RCA Switch Selector / Splitter Box & AV Patch Cable for Connecting 3 RCA Output Devices to Your TV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HNCPR92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_yPz7xbR6BCQ6B
Nicer: Four Input Source Tabletop Control Switch Box Internal Pc Board Design Metal Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0056EK7Q2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-Qz7xbAK8CJFZ
Done new afraid to get one made for AV, there's no difference. You just won't use the video rca jack.
It's a Sony PVM 20L2, technically I think it's a 19 inch, but the model number implies 20 inch and that's what everyone lists them as. Although it does seem a tiny bit smaller than my old 20 inch Trinitron it replaced. I'll measure them later and find out for sure.
The cables are a bit of a mess right now, going from my old CRT with SCART -> Converter Box -> Component -> CRT to this setup changed around some stuff, but once I clean everything up I planned on doing a full "Gameroom" post featuring all the shelves and stuff. I'll take a few photos of the cables as well. :)
But, basically for the RGB connected stuff (SNES, Sega, PS1 and PS2) they start with these cables from the console to the Switch:
This is the SCART Selector switch I use, works like a champ. Switches automatically. I love this thing to death.
From there, it goes out a generic (Male) SCART -> (Male) SCART (Used as an extension cable basically)
Then, into this (Female) SCART -> BNC connector
Then finally, into the Sony PVM CRT.
For audio, I just use a Stereo Jack -> RCA cable off the selector switch into my little cheapo 2.1 sound system (This PVMs don't have stereo sound).
Everything else is running off composite right now (Yellow Red White RCA connectors), going into a RCA switch and into the Sony PVM
Composite -> BNC adapters for the video signal
The composite switch I use.
Audio is the same story as above, just goes from the switch into the cheapo 2.1 system directly. So I pretty much don't use the PVM's speakers.
Very nice!
As your retro system collection grows, I suggest picking up an AV RCA switcher box:
Panlong 8-Way AV Switch RCA Switcher 8 in 1 Out Composite Video L/R Audio Selector Box for DVD STB Game Consoles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KXVBB7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_EGF3Db2BSMQ8J
I found these magnetic USB cables quite handy for charging the controllers while minimizing the risk of bending the micro USB ports.
Since I also have an Oculus, I bought this HDMI switch so that I don't ever have to unplug and re-plug in the cables (which damaged them in the past, which was hell). If you are going this route, I might next time consider a KVM switch that also switches the USB, though I do not have one to recommend.
HDMI Switcher 2 Ports Bi-direction Manual Switch 2 x 1 / 1 x 2 HDMI Hub-HDCP Passthrough-Supports Ultra HD 4K 3D 1080P By DotStone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8LLP2G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_y1c1AbH36NQMP
This will allow you to switch from tv to monitor without switching HDMI cables. I use it myself.
I used to use Y adapter (two female ends, one male) but now I just switch the RCA connectors out for the console I am using at the time.
There are products out there where you can plug a bunch in at once.
For Example
I know nothing about the above product and am not endorsing it. It's something I found in two seconds of internet searching.
I use this one for one ps4 pro and switch between a 55” q7 qled and a 32” 720p lg led and can vouch that there is no loss in sound or video quality. It works with either as if the switch isnt there.
The GV-USB2 is probably one of the best cheap cards out there. If you want an example of the quality, here's a recording from back when I was using it. I'm pretty sure it can look even better, as I was only using the RCA cables, and not the S-Video input. Just make sure you get a powered splitter like this or this (for S-video) so you can send the signal to both the TV and the recording device without lag.
Just make sure you set the device up properly and use some kind of deinterlacing. For ease of use I'd just recommend using the built in de-interlacing options in OBS.
Edit: If you're short on money and don't want to spend extra on a splitter for live capture, then you can just save your match replays using Legacy TE, and then record them through the recording device using your computer screen to navigate the menus. This requires extra work though, and it can be easy to forget to save your replays. I'd just recommend getting the capture device and the splitter so you can record it all in one go.
So the reason this is needed is SteamVR gets confused when two headsets are plugged in at the same time...
These are the exact two bits I ordered:
https://www.amazon.com/Bi-direction-Manual-Switch-Passthrough-Supports-DotStone/dp/B01L8LLP2G/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1510945708&sr=1-3&keywords=hdmi+switcher&dpID=51NuwF1AMCL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Individual-Switches-included-HB-UMP3/dp/B00TPMEOYM/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1510945749&sr=1-5&keywords=powered+3.0+hub
But any bi-directional HDMI switch, and any powered USB 3.0 hub that lets you turn on and off connections should work.
I tried plugging my two Rift cameras into the hub but Oculus software was spitting out "Poor Communication" issues, so those have dedicated ports into the mobo (and it's OK to leave them connected while using the Vive)
This will make QA across platforms a lot easier :D
Not possible? Maybe I’m not understanding what he is asking but it sounds like he wants this.
DotStone HDMI Switch Bi-direction 4K HDMI Splitter 2 x 1/1 x 2 No External Power Required 2 Ports HDMI Switcher Supports Ultra HD 4K 3D 1080P for PS4 Xbox Fire Stick Roku https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8LLP2G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NBtNBbAWBFXCM
All you do is press the button when you want to play the other console and it will switch back and forth. No power source etc and relatively low price.
3 to 1 HDMI pigtail switch - $8, no remote, it should auto sense, but you will likely need to use the button to swap inputs. Does not require external power.
3 to 1 HDMI switch box - $18, remote control, requires external power. This one is much nicer because all the cables plug into the back, so you'll have a much cleaner set up. You can also leave it right in front of your monitor and simply push the button to switch inputs.
I purchased this HDMI switch. I use it for my Switch, PS3, and regular television. Works like a charm. The only annoyance is that instead of having a remote of sorts, there's a button on the device itself that must be pressed to switch between HDMI signals. Really just a minor thing, though.
I use the below model to connect PS4 Pro and Xbox One X to a Samsung KS8000 with no 4K/HDR problems.
Make sure the HDMI cables you’re using are rated for 18Gbps
https://www.amazon.com/Awakelion-Premium-Quality-Switcher-Support/dp/B06WV5YJ6H
I use this. But it's only 5 ports.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WV5YJ6H/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Proster-Extractor-Switcher-Converter-Include/dp/B073TTS9QG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1543214334&sr=8-3&keywords=hdmi+switch+with+audio+out
This device already exists and you probably already have one... Don't you have an AV receiver? Just split the HDMI (using the splitter you said you already have) from the PS4 into two different inputs and then use your remote control to the select the one that you want to play-HDR or PS VR.
If you don't have an AV receiver and you don't want to spend the money on one, just get a HDMI switcher that works with a remote control follow the same steps but with the HDMI switcher instead. Kinovo some really good ones for less than $30, But there are a ton of different ones.
Specifically : PS4-> HDMI Splitter -> 1 hdmi to psvr processor and the 2nd one to either an AV reciever or something like this: Kinivo HDMI Switch 301BN Premium 3 Port Wireless Remote & AC Power Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049S6ZUS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_IpBCyb6BYC3J6
Then have the psvr HdMI out also go to a seperate input on the AV Reciever or the HDMI switch.
The output from the AV Reciever or HDMI switch goes to the TV. Both the AV Reciever and the HDMI port can be controlled by a universal remote - i use a logitech harmony but you can use almost any one.
Note: The Kinovo switcher in the link does HDR i think, but you should shop around to make sure. If it doesn't then choose one that does. If you use an old AV reciever then it may not do HDR but a newer one should.
I had the same problem, try an hdmi switch, $30 on amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0049S6ZUS
Is it this one?
https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-5-Port-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=kinivo+hdmi+switch&link_code=qs&qid=1568653868&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin%3A6909317011&rnid=6909315011&s=audio-video-accessories&sourceid=Mozilla-search&sr=1-1
It says it switches inputs automatically. Can you verify that works with turning the minis on/off?
I love the switch as well! However, I don't think anything is immune to criticism, and Nintendo has made a lot of weird decisions that are a step back IMHO.
Anyway, check this out, it may help with your HDMI situation. I will say it does get out of sync when you dock the Switch because of how the Switch "wakes up" when docked but does not necessarily send video output. If you leave it docked, you can basically switch from PS4 and Switch depending on which device is awake at the moment.
https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522417904&sr=1-3&keywords=kinivo+hdmi+switch
I've had a bunch of thr cheap hdmi switchers and they all seem to die after 9 months after having issues with specific devices not working (ps3 and wiiu) from the start. I bought this one reccomemeded in a home theater subreddit and it has taken everything I've thrown at it with no issues: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049SCB2Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I don't need to use the remote often as the auto switching is solid. I put my chromecast on my tv and roku on the switch as running more than one always on device screws with the autoswitching.
Get a Harmony anyway, they are super awesome.
No fix, happens with the autosensing switch I use on my TV.
This one: https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-HD1831-3-Port-Switch-Pigtail/dp/B008GVOVK0/
Not a cable, a hub. He wanted to sell me a 2-port HDMI Hub with no remote for $75, instead I went to Amazon and got a 3-port with remote for less than $10. And it's worked flawlessly for 5 months.
http://www.amazon.com/Portta-PET0301S-HDMI-Switcher-Support/dp/B00B46XUQU
you would need a hdmi selector switch.
http://www.amazon.com/PORTTA-PET0301S-Switcher-Supports-Wireless/dp/B00B46XUQU/ref=sr_1_2?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1427552676&sr=1-2&keywords=hdmi+switch
So I just went through all of this myself and I can let you know what I used. After doing some research I decided on this 8 Way Composite AV Switch (MT-VIKI 8 Ports 8-In 1-Out AV RCA Splitter Selector Switch $22 - Amazon)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DRGDBTG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And I currently have 7 consoles running through it perfectly into my trinitron as you can see here: http://i.imgur.com/48CJdIn.jpg
That is one RGB cable coming from the selector (on top of CRT) into the TV and all the RGB cables from my consoles plugging into the selector. There are toggle switches on the top to choose between systems.
Currently connected: SNES, PS2, GC, Dreamcast, N64, Saturn and Genesis w/powerbase adapter and I still have room for my TG16 once I find space for it!
EDIT: I re-read through the thread linked earlier and I am using the same models they have suggested.
If none of your consoles are modded for RGB, then S-Video is not a bad alternative. S-Video looks great for 240p consoles. Beware that the N64 might still look pretty bad without an RGB mod to enable de-blur, but as far NES/SNES/Genesis/PS1 and those consoles go, S-Video is pretty damn good! GameCube and PS2 will look alright through S-Video, not great. Another plus is that decent S-Video cables are a hell of a lot cheaper than decent RGB cables, so the 14N1U is a very good budget choice for going the S-Video route.
Just add a switch like this for your S-Video setup, and you're good to go: https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-28750-Composite-Selector/dp/B0032ANC8M?ie=UTF8&keywords=s%20video%20switch&qid=1463513498&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1
Of course, make sure the geometry, colors and contrast on the PVM you buy is decent. If not, it will be disappointing no matter the input.
In that case go for a switch like this. Four composite/svideo inputs, no power supply required, and balls cheap.
Component switches seem to be pretty pricey, but there's this one from Monoprice that should be able to do you good for your Wii/PS2/Xbox. If you have a learning remote thingy (like a Harmony or whatever) then you can program it and stuff (though you'll probably still have to get up to toggle whatever system you're going to be playing...so..yea...).
You're going to be running into power issues with having all of your systems hooked up, thanks to the bulky ass bricks so many of them used. Don't be the jack off that daisy chains surge protectors and extension cables, just buy something with decently spaced out outlets like this.
I also recommend labeling the cables on both ends to save on headaches later. Label which switch/port it's going to on the side that connects to the system and label the side that connects to the switch with the name of the system. You don't need to buy Kableflags, but at the very least rig something up with scotch tape and a piece of paper. It's a little redundant, but it doesn't hurt to tape a small piece of paper to the back of the TV / top of the switch / under the switch / whatever with the current, complete configuration of your whole setup, too.
The LP120 and A2+ are all you will need to start spinning records.
You won't need an external preamp, because the LP120 has one built in. You won't need a receiver/amplifier because the A2+ have built in amplification. You won't need an equalizer, unless you want to adjust the audio frequency for some reason.
The only thing you may need is a passive switch box and/or a passive volume control. The passive switch box will allow you to hook more than one input source (turntable, mp3 player, etc) to your A2+ speakers. A passive volume control will allow you adjust the volume more easily than reaching behind the A2+ speakers each time you want to change the volume level.
The passive switch box (aka A/V switcher) is available at nearly any big-box or online retailer. The passive volume control can probably be found at multiple places as well. Links for reference:
http://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-Auto-sensing-Switch-5--2-out/dp/B00DSQMVKU/
http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-28750-Composite-Selector/dp/B0032ANC8M
http://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-Composite-Selector-Switch/dp/B005LT1CXO
http://www.amazon.com/Axxess-AALC-Controller-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B003FPD3IS
http://www.amazon.com/PAC-LC-1-Remote-Amplifier-Controller/dp/B0002J226O
I've got you covered for about $35, possibly cheaper depending on whether or not your turntable already has a pre-amp built in.
What you need:
Here's how it works:
Now all you have to do is press a button to change inputs. And like I said earlier, if your turntable already has a pre-amp built in, or you already own a pre-amp or receiver, then you can knock $15 off the price and have everything you need for under $20. Possibly right now if you head to a WalMart or something.
Edit: The bonus about this method is you keep the signal analog the whole way through. Also, as mentioned by /u/apapousek, a two channel system is the absolute best audio upgrade you can make at the moment.
This is the best one you can get and works the best.
You need to have a HDMI Switch with a dedicated power supply, otherwise it wont run the signal for the PS4. Trust me, I had some trial and error till I found this one.
Depends on how involved you want to get. Here it's all a matter of aesthetics, and if you want it to look good, you've gotta do the work. Fortunately, I did it for the first time myself, and it looks good and is worth it.
Good luck.
I miss read your post a little. Just a simple video switch is what you're looking for. Something like this link should work. If you don't use HDMI get adapters, the VGA and DVI switches out there are old and outdated for current resolutions. I've owned this particular brand before, I had the 5 port version.
I've had good results with Kinivo HDMI switches and Harmony remotes. I haven't used the UHD ones, but the FHD ones work great.
Kinivo FHD HDMI switches
Kinivo 301BN (3x1)
Kinivo 501BN (5x1)
Kinivo UHD HDMI switches
Kinivo K300 (3x1)
Kinivo K500 (5x1)
Well If I had 15 conference rooms I would probably do something a little more "official". Look into the wide world of Crestron and Extron products. If its on a conference table I would look at something like the Fliptop tied into an HDMI switch/scaler for your different digital and analog formats with a single HDMI running back to the screen. Of course you can always start going over the top by tying in audio and lighting but its all about $$$.
Or if you like quick and dirty, ScottRaymond has the right solution except put all the clutter under the table and get an auto sensing HDMI switch like this one
Source: A/V at a conference center is one of my hats
I use:http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393787526&sr=8-1&keywords=kinovo+hdmi+switch
I have my XB1, PS4, Apple TV, Directv HDDDVR all plugged in. It always displays the most recent device I turned on.
Here is one with 5 HDMI ports
https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y
but yeah an AV Receiver is probably the best bang for buck since you can plug in mostly everything into one device.
Do you mean splitter (view your PS4 on multiple screens) or switcher (switch between your PS4 and other HDMI devices connected to one screen)?
I'm just not sure why many people would need a three-way HDMI splitter for their PS4....
If you're looking for a switcher, I've been using this one for almost 5 years. If you want something under $20, this one seems to have good reviews.
Got this guy set up just recently; pretty happy with it for the consoles I have hooked up.
Kinivo 4K 30hz + 1080p 60hz for 3,299₹ (proper seller, with warranty, Appario Retail) - Amazon link
Kinivo 4K 60hz for 6,289₹ (not an official seller, no guarantee or warranty) - Amazon link
I use this one. Switches automatically as well as with the included remote. Had it about a year, works great.
Kinivo 501BN Premium 5 port High speed HDMI switch with IR wireless remote and AC Power adapter - supports 3D, 1080p https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_xQTfvb00CX835
For more modern consoles you would need a HDMI switch. Same concept, but different connection type.
I splurged and got a little pricier one: http://amzn.com/B0049SCB2Y
I was going to get a cheap 3 input one, but the 3 input from this brand wasn't much more. And then once I had that it wasn't much more for the 5 input. I too had three devices and one input, so I decided to get the 5 input switcher in case I added a device in the future. Now I'm glad I did since I'll be adding a chrome cast.
I've only had it for a few weeks so I can't give you a long term review, but so far it's worked great. I just have my Wii U and PS3 plugged into it right now and it automatically switches between the two. I don't think it will work with a Roku though, because the always on screensaver thing will make the switcher think it's always playing something. It comes with a remote control to switch manually. My TV has 3 inputs so I'll be putting the chromecast in one, Roku in one, and the switcher in the other for all my gaming systems and cable box.
An audio switch to select the signal you want to hear might be practical. Example from Amazon
You may want to specify what kind of connector the input of your sound system uses. Otherwise, how about something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/3-Way-Switch-Selector-Splitter-XBOX360/dp/B004T8KZCM/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1410823053&sr=8-16&keywords=3.5mm+switch
and then some of these to convert between 3.5mm jacks and composite:
http://www.amazon.com/eForCity-3-5mm-Auxiliary-Cable-Cord/dp/B0042DIZTE/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1410823147&sr=8-4&keywords=composite+3.5mm
http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-6-Inch/dp/B000I23TTE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410823147&sr=8-1&keywords=composite+3.5mm
https://www.amazon.com/niceeshop-Composite-Selector-Switch-Splitter/dp/B004T8KZCM
What about something like this?
Both red and white jacks need to come from the same input; they correspond to the left and right channels of the input so the amp really only has 1 input. What you want is an RCA switch:http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004T8KZCM?pc_redir=1413854184&robot_redir=1
I can confirm this. My receiver only has four HDMI ports which is one too few for my stuff. I have PS3 and X360 hooked up to one of these and it works great. I don't even use the remote since it auto-switches. Only downside is that the LED is too bright, and that was fixed with a square of electrical tape.
Just started doing this 2 days ago and so far have won
3 steam games ($60 combined)
Lifetime dvd software license ($50)
Magnetic Chore chart ($15)
Fosmon HD1832 Intelligent 5-Port HDMI Switch ($12)
Limited Edition Naismith Memorial Basketball Hall of Fame Tie
I bought this one. It is powered which is important to some devices because they will not provide enough power through the HDMI itself. And this particular one has an ir remote so you can trigger it without getting up. (My personal favorite feature.)
You mean like an HDMI switch?
Fosmon HD1831 3-Port HDMI Switch with Pigtail Cable
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008GVOVK0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-Mh1xbB2AXZBK
Yes, but it isn't recommended. An HDMI splitter like this might help:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008GVOVK0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484629946&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=hdmi+splitter&dpPl=1&dpID=41qa2cGhOXL&ref=plSrch
I haven't had any issues. HDMI, being digital, would have noticeable "blocking" instead of an overall degradated signal and I haven't seen any issues.
Most devices should output enough power via HDMI to not need it; but, it does have an a/c input just in case. My ps3/fire stick/FIOS cable box all work with it without needing another power source.
I use this one, btw:
https://www.amazon.com/Portta-PET0301S-Switcher-Key-Press-Switching-support/dp/B00B46XUQU
It'll automatically default to ports based on power and placement. So, you'd plug an "always on" device like your cable box into input 1. Then, if you have your ps3 in input 2 or 3, it'll automatically switch when you turn it on.
Splitters are going to be more of like a 2 to one sort of thing and my experience are not as reliable, if you’re looking to use it for game consoles I’d definitely go with an HDMI switch box like this one and that way you can utilize auto-switching features (if you were playing your PlayStation last and then you come back later and want to play your Xbox, you can turn your Xbox on and it will automatically switch inputs). You can also get more consoles hooked up with a switchbox (most switch boxes are 3 in 1 out, I have a 4 in 2 out, some even go up to 8 in). Just a thought!
a Splitter, takes the same HDMI signal and sends it to 2 Output devices.
a Switch, Takes Multiple HDMI signals and will let you switch between them to go to 1 HDMI input.
you seem to be a little confused about what exactly you need.
Ah okay. Sorry, I thought you just wanted an on/off switch. Ignore my original suggestion. What you are looking for is just commonly known as an "HDMI Switch"/"HDMI Multiplexer"
Something like this. http://www.amazon.com/PORTTA-PET0301S-Switcher-Supports-Wireless/dp/B00B46XUQU
Do you need to do any automation with it?
Just get this guy or something similar.
Had the same exact problem. Solved for $10:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B46XUQU/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
That sounds like a terrible situation. Snaking through a wall that has any turns is next to impossible without opening the wall and gaining access.
An alternate solution: You can get a three way HDMI switch. Put it at the bottom of the wall and plug the other components into it. This sort of thing. There's a bunch to shop through. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B46XUQU/ref=pd_aw_sbs_1?pi=SS115&simLd=1
>This cable functions as a signal transmitter, but NOT a signal converter.
No
You need a converter too, like this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Portta-WPETCHP-Composite-Converter-Scaler/dp/B008S7EYW2/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1417758155&sr=1-2&keywords=rca+to+hdmi+converter
Then, if you have a lot of RCA cable using consoles, and you don't want to mess with wires all the time, consider something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/MT-VIKI-Splitter-Selector-Adapter-MT-831AV/dp/B00DRGDBTG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1417758265&sr=8-4&keywords=RCA+switch+box
With these 2 items, you can connect 8 things to an HDMI ready TV with RCA cables. It's going to look like crap though :( Best to just find an old CRT monitor.
I use something similar to this at work. I have a computer, xbox and ps4 going into the inputs and switch between them.
http://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-TOSLINK-Digital-Optical-Switcher/dp/B00G188Z7A
So I use all 3 with the Pro Wireless as well, but FOR STRICTLY AUDIO, no chat.
USB > PC
Then Optical > Console
I use this to connect my xbox and ps4 to, then run the optical out to the base station. Hit 1 for xbox, 2 for ps4.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G188Z7A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I get sound simultaneously through both (Can balance which is louder as well. I believe Voice is usb and Game is optical) Technically I get 3 sources of audio using BT to my phone. All works great.
Your stereo only has a single set of RCA inputs? I would not go the splitter approach. You want a switch instead
No, its a closed system over Wifi, no analog inputs.
What is your current turntable? You can add a Bluetooth Transmitter to any turntable to stream to a single Echo speaker or a stereo system over Bluetooth. There is an adapter to transmit to 2 Bluetooth speakers however a set of 2 adapters for 4 speakers would be even more of a pairing mess.
However, a big part of vinyl is the analog sound and the Echo and especially the Dots are not very good speakers. You will be much better off with better pair of home audio bookshelf speakers and you can add a second set in another room. You can also hook up one of the Dots to the speakers to have better streaming audio sound.
Any of these systems can also be added to the Dots for better sound in other rooms.
Lowest budget $50 6-1/2" 2-Way Bookshelf Speaker Pair and Hi-Fi Mini Amplifier Bundle. Add a RCA switch $11 to add a Dot with the turntable and speakers.
Or powered Edifier R1280T bookshelf speakers $99.
Or a step up mini amp and speakers, $52 SMSL SA-36A Pro TPA3118D2DAP Stereo Amplifier 2 x 20W with $50 Dayton Audio B652-AIR 6-1/2" 2-Way Bookshelf Speaker with AMT Tweeter Pair. Add speaker wire, and see 4 Ways to Strip Wire - wikiHow.
For the best sound quality for the buck, look for a used stereo or AV receiver and a pair of used bookshelf speakers.
A step up new is ONKYO TX-8020 $99 stereo receiver with:
$349MSRP new or 6.5" Infinity Reference 162 $175$449MSRP when new.Home Audio Guides: Intro to home stereo systems • Introduction to Audio Components • Zeos Tutorials, Diagrams and Videos • r/audiophile Guide to Home Audio • AverageJoeAudiophile's Guides •
Speaker Positioning: How to position your speakers for great sound • Speaker Placement for Stereo Music Listening
Also check out r/BudgetAudiophile
http://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Switcher-Composite-Selector-Consoles/dp/B00KXVBB3Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1457224696&sr=8-2&keywords=rca+switch+box
I've used one of these and it's quite literally just a mechanic switch between different inputs. Clunky switches and a metal box; should do what you need, too.
I mean it's $11 tho
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KXVBB3Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_p144BbT83YC65
So if I wanted to keep my ps2 and xbox hooked up and not have to switch out the av cables, I can just use this right?
I love everyone mentioning the card hehe, thanks! :) So you're saying just pop in a USB keyboard for starters and that's it?
Yeah I was wondering about a fan. I'm being told by a majority a heatsink will be fine, I don't really sit for extended gaming periods, not with a toddler and newborn lol, so I figured for now, this case/heatsink will do until my needs change
I planned to get this to help with my connections to the TV. Wondering if anyone else has tried it.
No clue. Probably because it's a workaround. If you have 35 bucks to drop, I'd highly recommend this card:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00428BF1Y/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=19PXRWYDINS8Q&coliid=I2SHEBGBZQJW43
It's amazing quality, easy with drivers, etc. Works perfectly with OBS once you install the drivers, which there's a tutorial on how to do it in the amazon reviews (it's click a couple boxes, but it's all in Japanese lol).
I use that, with this splitter, and S-video. Here's an example of what it looks like with my setup: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RN9E1OSVgHo
What kind of signal are you using? Composite video? If so, you need a "distribution amplifier" to actively split the signal without degrading quality.
edit: https://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-1500320-Component-Distribution-Amplifier/dp/B010EIK6K6
Most SD capture cards are intended for ripping VHS tapes to your PC. They're not intended for gaming. You'll never find one that will let you play on a PC monitor without display lag.
The solution is to get a television, and a splitter like this.
For a SNES your best bet is a CRT television, which you can get on craigslist for like $10 if you live in North America.
Your other option which I personally use is buying an s-video distribution amplifier. It helps maintain signal strength and gives the best clarity and results for both the stream and your CRT (unless you wanted to really go out and buy an upscaler). Essentially think of the powered splitter like a water pump where unpowered splitters are water lines to multiple homes. The pressure is maintained with a pump where as the multiple home connections will drop pressure. Another plus with the box is having the option of running multiple audio outputs without needing more splitters, which I use for my audio interface setup but you could also run the audio into speakers for casual play offstream.
For those that work from home with their work laptop: an HDMI switcher.
Use it to switch your monitors source from your desktop or your docking station!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8LLP2G/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I2LBLDC00EGRRD&colid=DBA5F9ZE9GQU&psc=0
You mean a bidirectional hdmi switch?
https://www.amazon.com/Bi-direction-Manual-Switch-Passthrough-Supports-DotStone/dp/B01L8LLP2G
Edit: Given you have the disposable income to purchase a snes classic and free time to play said games.... You have enough money for a hdmi splitter and enough time (if you get a factory defect/ D.O.A product) to return it for a functioning one. Cheers
I have a 40" 4K on one wall and Next to it a desk with monitor.
Use this for easy switching
DotStone HDMI Switch Bi-Direction 4K HDMI Splitter 2 x 1/1 x 2 No External Power Required 2 Ports HDMI Switcher Supports Ultra HD 4K 3D 1080P for PS4 Xbox Fire Stick Roku https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8LLP2G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uDc5CbQNH8XDN
/u/Gogo229 - For live events, I'd recommend a real camcorder like the [$1799 JVC HM200] (https://www.amazon.com/JVC-GY-HM200U-Professional-Camcorder-Handle/dp/B00V7LZTYI//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20).
This camera will cost you several hundred dollars less than a GH5 and give you built-in SDI out, which you can plug straight into the SDI input of a [$551 Blackmagic Web Presenter] (https://www.amazon.com/Blackmagic-Design-Presenter-Teranex-Pearstone/dp/B06X3W3HQS//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) without an adapter.
With an [inexpensive 2 input switch] (https://www.amazon.com/Bi-direction-Manual-Switch-Passthrough-Supports-DotStone/dp/B01L8LLP2G//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) for the Web Presenter's HDMI input, you'll have a slick 3 camera setup you can send straight to your laptop without spending $1000 for the Roland.
[Here] (https://youtu.be/LgLz5ba1aTE) is a nice summary of what the Web Presenter can do.
And here are a few examples of the image quality the HM200 (and its lower-end twin, the HM170) can produce:
Outdoors
Indoors (Non-studio)
Slow Motion
For shooting live events, a real video camera will make your life a lot easier than shooting with a still/video compromise camera. If you want the large sensor, shallow depth of field "look" for some shots, you can shoot them with your G7.
And if you ever want to do a single camera livestream, you can leave the Web Presenter at home and stream straight to the web from the HM200, which has a built-in IP encoder for live streaming from anywhere there's a hotspot with a [$7.99 wi-fi dongle] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MTTJOY//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20).
[Here] (https://youtu.be/lzF0XRSM4_w) is how streaming works with the [$2295 sports version] (http://adorama.evyy.net/c/60286/51926/1036?u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.adorama.com%2Fjvgyhm200sp.html) of this camcorder (yours would be exactly the same, but without the scoreboard graphic overlays).
[Here] (https://youtu.be/Y3oYNy47yYo) is the JVC promo video on this feature, using USTREAM as the example streaming platform.
Hope this is helpful and good luck with finding the right camera for your needs!
Make sure the game supports vga of course. I use the following:
HDMI Switcher 2 Ports... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8LLP2G?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Tensun 3RCA AV CVBS Composite &... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019T0WFA4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
OREI XD-600 VGA PC/Laptop to HDMI Video Converter -Upscaler Up to 720P/1080P Converter with Audio Jack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IUJJHAW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TgsPDbNJCDAPV
Then finally I use the 8bit retro VGA box.
This is not the most efficient setup or the cheapest but it lets me switch easily from vga to s-video for the titles that prefer it and ensures the audio works. I recently purchased a DCHDMI but haven’t had it installed.
https://www.amazon.com/Switcher-Bi-direction-Hub-HDCP-Passthrough-Supports-DotStone/dp/B01L8LLP2G/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526243885&sr=1-4&keywords=hdmi+switcher
It is this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01L8LLP2G/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Switch-GANA-Splitter-Pigtail-Supports/dp/B06VX1PKQ7/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1524961779&sr=1-3&keywords=hdmi+switcher
Would something like this work? https://www.amazon.com/Switch-GANA-Splitter-Pigtail-Supports/dp/B06VX1PKQ7/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1519836368&sr=8-3&keywords=hdmi+port+extender&dpID=51lwkqsTIfL&preST=_SY300QL70&dpSrc=srch
That will only duplicate the display. What you're looking for is an HDMI input switch box.
Like this.
https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Switch-GANA-Splitter-Supports/dp/B06VX1PKQ7
Kvm stands for Keyboard, Video, Mouse and it would do exactly what you're looking for. However it is somewhat pricy.
If you don't mind pressing 3 buttons you could buy an HDMI merger, and have that feed into a splitter, and have a USB splitter.
Basically you'd need these: (Merger) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VX1PKQ7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pPfXzbWDY8YB9
(Splitter) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HXFARS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tQfXzbWGDZ84V
(USB Switch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JX3Q28Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jTfXzbJRTASXT
And about 4 HDMI cables.
All in all it should cost you about $100. It's ghetto and would look silly but it will work.
Just buy this. I have two and they work fine. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VX1PKQ7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bY7SCbAM1RT5K
A switch is definitely your best option in this situation. Try this one out, I saw it posted on another sub with a similar situation. Hope that helps you out.
Please don’t get this item. “This does not support HDR, HDCP 2.2, HDMI 2.0”
Which means no Netflix, HDR if you have an S or X and no 4K if you choose to upgrade down the road.
This one has room for more devices, 4K support if you upgrade your devices and HDCP 2.2 which will let you watch Blu-ray Discs and Netflix (from Xbox): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WV5YJ6H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OnG6Ab1PFPFC1
Which models have you tried? I am getting this one today
I bought a 5x1 4K switch just for this purpose and it's been great. That way I have a single input to my 4K tv, but can switch between the sources with the remote that comes with the switch.
This is the one I got:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WV5YJ6H
Make sure you get good high-speed HDMI cables for each connection, too:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GCGKI3O
​
It might work, but I wouldn't chance it. Generally it's not a good idea to short two output sources together which is what that splitter would do. (The output of a device is low impedance so it "looks like" a short circuit when connected to a different output source.)
What you should use is a switch box that lets you connect one device at a time to the speaker (while disconnecting the other.)
Here's one.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/STEREO-Manual-Speaker-selector-available/dp/B073GWCRP3?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_5
But why you have only one slot? Might as well just get USB sound card for the same price, better investment.
I use one of these to use my switch, snes mini, and pc at my desk. Works pretty well.
Something like this HDMI audio extractor will solve your audio problem. Or you can get an all in one solution
Personally I run a Retrotink 2X and love the thing. As far as I know Mike Chi (The make of the 2X) is the maker of the RAD2X as well. So That's probably the best option (in the price range obviously).
You can buy HDMI audio extractors to get your line level out back. This way you can run audio however you want after the HDMI process. However, in your situation, it might just pay to go the 2X route and then never feed your audio into the unit and route it elsewhere.
I used to have this one and it worked for a Roku and cable box.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B073TTS9QG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You could buy an HDMI switch.
I found one by doing a quick search: https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Switch-4K-Splitter-Bi-Directional/dp/B079JQ9XXV/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=hdmi+splitter&qid=1569144396&s=gateway&sr=8-3#immersive-view_1569144448483
This one accepts two inputs and allows you to output to a single display, and you can switch between the input sources.
A lot cheaper than a new TV
HDMI Switch 4K HDMI Splitter-Techole Aluminum Bi-Directional HDMI Switcher 2 Input 1 Output, HDMI Switch Splitter 2 x 1/1 x 2. No External Power Required, Supports 4K 3D HD 1080P for Xbox PS4 Roku HDTV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JQ9XXV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8kiZDbMGSTKT1
You need an HDMI splitter like this: https://smile.amazon.com/HDMI-Switch-4K-Splitter-Bi-Directional/dp/B079JQ9XXV/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1GXEWZW5WU4M8&keywords=hdmi+splitter&qid=1573659955&sprefix=hdmi+split%2Caps%2C165&sr=8-3
​
That is a simple one, if you are worried about HDR going through the splitter, you may need to look for a splitter that supports HDR.
HDMI Switcher 2 Ports Bi-direction Manual Switch 2 x 1 / 1 x 2 HDMI Hub-HDCP Passthrough-Supports Ultra HD 4K 3D 1080P By DotStone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8LLP2G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_j56VM8gFbzbdx
Works like a charm, i have my one s and ps4 pro hooked up to this thing.
I think what you actually need is an HDMI switch
Something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8LLP2G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ZDHXCbQ9EA82H
You want an HDMI switch. Something like this. You'd also want an HDMI to DP adapter, or cable.
That way, PC to Yiynova via VGA, and PC to Dell and Switch to Dell via HDMI is possible.
This one is pretty cheap
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01L8LLP2G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L8LLP2G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1#customerReviews
I use this one and it works great. I havent tried HDR, but according to the reviews HDR seems to work fine
A splitter will work. I have this one coming from my receiver to my KS8000 on one side and a monitor on the other. Both look great.
Here you go!
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01L8LLP2G/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505820254&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=HDMI+Switcher+2+Ports+Bi-direction+Manual+Switch+2+x+1+%2F+1+x+2+HDMI+Hub-HDCP+Passthrough-Supports+Ultra+HD+4K+3D+1080P+By+DotStone&dpPl=1&dpID=51zcAC0JEoL&ref=plSrch
be better off buying an hdmi switch
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VX1PKQ7/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_eyHjDbGGMF67Y
Okay, I would suggest an HDMI splitter. I do this same thing, I have an Xbox, and my PC running on the same monitor, sometimes I’ll even hook my laptop up to the monitor if I have something on it that I need to access that isn’t on my PC, the HDMI splitter is exactly what it sounds like, it’s a single output, multiple input splitter that, with the press of a button, changes the input routing to another HDMI, I use this for switching between Xbox and pc without having to unplug cables, and it sounds like it would work well for you also. They’re about $10-$15 on Amazon
edit: here’s a link to a nice little $10 splitter!
This is the simplest, most-reviewed one on amazon
10 bucks, and you don't have to get another cord. I'd try this one.
The maximum refresh rate of VGA is 60Hz at 1080p, besides its an obsolete analogue connector. There's no point in using it with a flat panel display. You'd be much better of using an HDMI switcher like this, you'll get a sharper, cleaner picture with less lag.
Sorry, no. It doesn't work that way. This switch is $11. If you don't have prime I'm sure a friend or coworker will buy it for you and you can give them the cash.
HDMI Switch,GANA 3 Port 4K HDMI Switch 3x1 Switch Splitter with Pigtail Cable Supports Full HD 4K 1080P 3D Player https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VX1PKQ7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WZbJBbM3VC2C6
I’ve used a splitter/switch before without issues.
Just to offer a second option, I have this one. I owned the previous 4K30hz version and upgraded to this 4K60hz version when it came out. Never had a problem with it.
https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-Switch-Wireless-Speed-18Gbps-Auto-Switching/dp/B07CRSJLJ2
At the very least I would say you want to completely avoid any HDMI switches that don't have a dedicated power source. This one below is an example. It relies on the connected devices to provide power over HDMI which can lead to inconsistent performance.
https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Switch-GANA-Splitter-Supports/dp/B06VX1PKQ7
You don't need a full KVM switch, just a basic HDMI one.
This is the one I got to switch between my Switch, hacked PS3, and any other random device I want to plug into my monitor. Works great. It's especially nice since it autoswitches to the first device that tries to output something; so if I was using my Switch, put it to sleep, and turn on my PS3, it switches without me having to press the button or anything.
This one is the one I ha e and for the price it works great! The 4K on it works great as well! I have Nintendo Switch, my cable box, and my Xbox one s hooked up to it no issues at all!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074Z6Z2NY/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQ0K1NH/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WV5YJ6H/
According to user reviews they all support HDR and 2160p60 4:4:4
If you want a brand name you can get
Ligawo 3090063 HDMI Switch
Sewell SwitchDeck, 4K HDMI 2.0 Switch
I own the Ligawo 5x1 myself.
Get a switch that has four or five HDMI inputs. Run everything through that. The trick, I suppose, is finding one that supports HDR across all of the inputs. Here's one for $50. There are undoubtedly lots of others, but this is the first I spotted that definitely has HDR support.
If the switch supports HDMI-CEC it will automatically switch to whatever the active device input is. The one I lined above doesn't specify HDMI-CEC, but it talks about "intelligent switching" that sounds like it either is HDMI-CEC or something equivalent.
Alternately, is a receiver and surround sound system an option? Even 5.1 will enhance your videogame and movie watching experience exponentially. It's obviously more expensive to implement but it can be phased in over time - get a used receiver and a couple of speakers, start with a 2.0 setup and add speakers as your budget allows.
I bought this one a while ago and have been happy with it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WV5YJ6H/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Is there any reason you have a chromecast connected to your computer monitor, when whatever it is you're chromecasting can easily be played on your computer? It sounds like what you're really looking for is a small audio receiver (or a switchbox, also you'll need line out from your monitor, not line in. Some receivers have a headphone jack, otherwise just connect your headphones to the headphone port on your case when you're looking to use it.
Something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073GWCRP3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_080xDbF1SXZN3
A cheaper alternative to the Belkin:
https://www.amazon.com/STEREO-Manual-Speaker-selector-available/dp/B073GWCRP3
Here's the top 100 digital-to-analog converters...about a zillion to pick from :)
https://www.amazon.com/Best-Sellers-Electronics-Converters/zgbs/electronics/3224445011
Do you have any other inputs connected? If so, this could be a possible solution - https://www.amazon.co.uk/STEREO-Manual-Speaker-selector-available/dp/B073GWCRP3
A search of "3.5 mm jack switch" brought up this in 0.94 seconds. Couple that with a couple 3.5 mm audio cables to join the sources with the switch and you're done.
You'd have to buy something like this to do that.
I have used this for a Play 5 and it works great. Doesn't need to be powered or anything
2 PORT 3.5mm STEREO Manual Switch Box AUX Audio Speaker selector(Wall Mount Hole Built-in, wall or table available) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073GWCRP3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jV17BbNR88KFQ
You'll want a switch, something like this.
This is all you need: https://www.amazon.com/STEREO-Manual-Speaker-selector-available/dp/B073GWCRP3/. There are fancier options for a few dollars more as well.
I know Zaxcom specializes in this type of gear, however it’s EXPENSIVE.
Maybe a low tech solution like this might do the trick...though I imagine you won’t be able to take into the walkie but at least you could listen in
2 Port 3.5mm Stereo Manual Switch Box AUX Audio Speaker selector(Wall Mount Hole Built-in, Wall or Table Available) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B073GWCRP3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_m0MLDbRMZVAQA
https://www.amazon.com/STEREO-Manual-Speaker-selector-available/dp/B073GWCRP3
have you looked at audio input switchers? have 2-4+ inputs all going into 1 box that you can then send a single output to your receiver.
I went with Polk Audio setup. T15 bookshelf speakers, PSW10 sub (thing is a beast), throw in a Lepy LP-2020A-3A amplifier, and a AUX switch to go back and forth between the speakers and headphones and BAM that is the audio setup.
In the spirit of this sub, there is a circuit diagram included in that article that shows how to build a summing box :-)
I've never used one myself so I really can't speak to how cheap you can go without it being trash.
That being said, it's a super simple device so this will probably work fine: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073GWCRP3/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Good eye. Yes, that's a Cambridge surround system w/woofer I've had for years. It's perfect.
The white remotes are for Phillips Hue bulb sets. One is for the ceiling lights and the other for the light strip behind the desk.
The silver box is an audio splitter I use to select from two sound sources to feed to the Cambridge system: PC sound, or my Sonos system sound, using a Sonos Connect.
Wrist pad.
https://www.amazon.com/Proster-Extractor-Switcher-Converter-Include/dp/B073TTS9QG/ref=sr_1_4?crid=FJH0XGCKGJCC&keywords=hdmi+audio+extractor&qid=1564440505&s=gateway&sprefix=hdmi+audio%2Caps%2C180&sr=8-4
​
This should do you fine and would allow you to hook up multiple devices to your monitor. It's pretty future proof for your set up.
Looks like this is a common Epson problem. Maybe this is a good solution? Though I would still need to either run a cable from the switcher to my receiver or figure out a Bluetooth connection...
What you want is an "audio extractor". Since you have two HDMI devices and you need to switch back and forth, you also need a HDMI switch.
Luckily, there are switches with extractors built in, so you can kill both birds with one stone.
Two options I can think of...
If your TV or monitor has a headphone out, grab a 3.5mm cable and run it from the screen to your speakers. Added bonus is that the speakers will then work for whatever you have connected to the screen, not just the Xbox.
Alternatively, you'll need to use a converter.
I have a HDMI switch that has a 3.5mm out, which can be used with a pair of speakers much like the ones you have (https://www.amazon.com/Proster-Extractor-Switcher-Converter-Include/dp/B073TTS9QG). They're relatively inexpensive, and don't degrade the sound quality.
But ultimately, whether you go with the screen headphone out, the HDMI converter or the controller, each of these three methods is effectively converting the signal somewhere down the line.
Ello! I have recently purchased an Elgato and I had the same issue as you. I run the Elgato's Out HDMI through one of these and mute my monitor. So far it works great and my sound doesn't seem any worse than it did on my computer. (on board sound if you have a sound card quality may vary :) )
Hope this helps!
Lmao $30 for an hdmi bidirectional splitter?! It's under 10 on [Amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JQ9XXV/)
Get extra cables and connect the monitors via switchers. They exist for HDMI, DVI, and DisplayPort, in ascending order of over-priced-ness.
Alternatively, if you have enough cables and your monitors allow multiple inputs, you can have everything plugged in all the time and use the monitor's source selection menu.
Not ideal, but you could consider one of these: https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Switch-4K-Splitter-Bi-Directional/dp/B079JQ9XXV
Maybe I am missing some point, but why dont you just buy something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JQ9XXV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HjgNDb7FPX9BW ? It is only $10 and I really doubt you can make it any cheaper, not even considering the time investment.
/u/_Asthenos
Actually there are some ways you can do this. A KVM would be best (not sure how you can afford an alienware tower and a macbook pro, but not a simple peripheral device...)
These are just examples of the device types im talking about, i have not used these and will not suggest using them. Do your own research before buying stuff:
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Selector-Computers-Peripheral-Switcher/dp/B01N6GD9JO
and
https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Switch-4K-Splitter-Bi-Directional/dp/B079JQ9XXV/
4K HDMI SWITCHER
​
This should work fine and you do not need any extra power, i have a similar one for non-4K
Cheapest ghetto answer is going to be an RCA Switch and Line Level Control
Then you just leave everything at full out and pick and choose.
Definitely use the Svideo, if you don't want to go the SCART to Component route. I used Svideo cables coming out of the SNES/N64 and they go into a switch that handles svideo and composite RCA(Red, White, Yellow) Cables. Then the switch outputs everything over one svideo cable into the svideo port and the sound I run into the red/white. [Switcher similar to mine] (http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-28750-Composite-Selector/dp/B0032ANC8M)
Best N64/SNES Svideo cable is this one but there are cheaper ones out there too but your mileage will vary. Those cables can be found on ebay usually for more the $50 range. So Run your NES over the composite RCA into the switch, your SNES/N64 into the switch via svideo, and then use just the svideo out on your switch and the red/white audio out because svideo only carries video not audio.
If you really want to get into RGB/SCART/COMPONENT Setups, I'd look at the other posts and also here If you want to do that, you'll need SCART cables for your SNES and 64, then need to run them into a box like [this] (http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-SCART-RGB-to-YUV-Component-Video-Converter-Scaler-/221156873851) And you'll need to split out audio like [this] (http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/157395/adding-audio-to-the-cvs287-scart-to-component-converter) also you might need a SCART switch to run from the consoles into SCART switch then out put in SCART to the converter box then from the converter box to the Component on your TV. Also your N64 will need to be modded for RGB output and your NES will too.
The SNES is the only one in your setup outputting full RGB by default. Honestly un-modded Composite is the best you get for NES and Svideo for N64(some even say composite is better for N64 depending on the model and chipsets in the N64).
I've toyed with that setup but honestly Svideo on the old Sony Trinitron looks great to me. Also monster cables are well known for quality, good insulation, etc. So I have some RCA composite Monster cables, the Svideo ones, and a few random RCA ones too.
You could use a Schiit Sys and leave the volume control set to 100%.
I've had bad luck with the cheap RCA selectors on Amazon - specifically this one.
I would look at older models like this. Yeah they don't look as cool as the Sys but they tend to be built better.
Another redditor had suggested This and it's been a great switch box, it has s-video inputs on all of them so you can get great quality out of it.
I'd recommend:
Roku Stick, Raspberry Pi with Kodi and Retro Pie. That'll get you everything you need. For Kodi and Retro Pie, you can have both running where you don't have to reboot or swap SD cards, as shown here.
To run your PC through the projector, you can use cat5e with HDMI baluns. You can route that through the wall, attic, and down the wall to your projector, or you can just run it around the perimeter of the room.
To have everything run through the projector, you can pick up a simple HDMI switch online for something like $30.
To control everything, you could probably figure out a way to make a Harmony remote handle the work, or you can use your phone if it has IR.
http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-301BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049S6ZUS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1416935726&sr=8-2&keywords=hdmi+switch
Off topic: I ran into the problem of not having enough HDMI on my TV as well and this little device has been amazing at getting all consoles onto one TV. I have 3 HDMI on my TV so I have Live Television one the first, this adapter; which has all of my consoles (Wii U, Xbox One, and PS4) ,and the last is for my PC.
http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-301BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049S6ZUS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1456898010&sr=8-2&keywords=kinivo+hdmi+switch
I have something like this for my main setup:
http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-301BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049S6ZUS
You can have it switch inputs automatically, and it comes with a remote. Fairly cheap solution without buying a whole new monitor.
I'm wondering if HDCP would prevent the use of a splitter with Xbox One. I see that listing specifically says it doesn't support HDCP.
One thing that would probably work is an HDMI switch like this one but you would have to manually switch between the two TVs. It wouldn't output to both of them at the same time. They're typically used for plugging two video sources into one HDMI port on the TV. I'm not sure if they work the other way arround
HDMI initiates device identification and authentication during a handshake using HDCP. The secure key generated during authentication prevents connecting multiple devices to the same output.
You could use an HDMI switch box though.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0049S6ZUS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1394027690&sr=8-1
I have that one. Works great.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049S6ZUS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00
This is the cheapest one with decent reviews and it works really good for me.
Hi there Steve! I had a similar predicament about six months ago when we set up a secondary HT system in our bedroom and I actually bought a different Konivo model that has three HDMI-outs. It's been working splendidly ever since; I should note that it replaced another splitter (the PORTTA PET0301S) that died after only a couple months, so the fact that our new model is working problem-free is a relief.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049S6ZUS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
Edit: Forgot to mention the splitter I recommended is self-powered and also will auto-select the active port, which is definitely a nice addition.
For that use case, you could also go with an HDMI switch--something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049S6ZUS
As far as your first question goes, the Switch itself wouldn't be able to automatically unless your TV also supports that. Some TVs will auto switch to a different input if a new signal is detected. If your TV does not have that feature then you can use a device like I use to give your TV more HDMI inputs (Kinivo HDMI switch). This device auto switches to the device that just turned on. You leave your TV on the same input and this device handles all the switching. It comes with a control to manually switch inputs as well. Something to consider!
Your second question...I haven't read anything on whether or not that will be a feature. I don't think we know at this time.
Edit: Wording.
IDK how many inputs your Bose system has but you could get 2 of these
https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Extractor-Optical-Converter-VHD-H2HSAs/dp/B00KBHX072
and if you want to be very lazy add this
https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1484164635&sr=1-2&keywords=auto+switching+hdmi+switch
Buy 10 of these
2 of these
1 of these
and a bunch of HDMI cables
I'm planning my PC setup, and I want to connect my PC to a TV, problem is I don't have enough HDMI slots to connect my PC, ps4, cable box and Nintendo switch, so I need an HDMI switcher, this is the one I found on Amazon; Kinivo 501BN Premium 5 port High speed HDMI switch with IR wireless remote and AC Power adapter - supports 3D, 1080p https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_iGHizb09E00MA
Anyway my question is, will this work? Are there better options for a better price?
Also, I am going to get a dedicated monitor down the line but until I have the money for it and I can find one I like, my TV is going to be my primary monitor, so no answers along the lines of "just buy a monitor"
An HDMI switch maybe and then adapt each composite input into HDMI with one of these to be able to plug into the switch.
That's gonna be a converter for each of the older consoles (PS2, GameCube and N64) then the rest (Xbox 360, Wii) they run HDMI native IIRC so they just plug into the HDMI switch.
For an HDMI switch, I use this: Kinivo Switch, and it works great. I have a PS4, XB1, Wii U, Switch and PS3 hooked up to it. I have no issues with it, and recommend it. I am running everything at 1080, though.
I also have 2 of the Pelican System Selector Pro 2.0's that I absolutely love. Each one has 6 inputs, capable of switching composite, s-video and component. You have to run the appropriate outputs, so you are really limited to using 1 type of output realistically. If you get fancy with the output wiring you can mix and match, but I like to keep it simple. I use S-Video for everything that supports it into the selectors and then into a Toshiba CRT TV. I don't see any on eBay right now, but that's pretty much where you're gonna find them. I really like mine and recommend trying to scoop one up.
I used to run the regular Pelican System Selectors that had push buttons to switch sources. They work, but don't look as slick as the Pro's and Pro 2.0's.
Mixing inputs gets tricky, and I typically run different switching units for different types of outputs (s-video, component, HDMI). Here is a link to my setup I posted on reddit a few weeks ago: my setup
The HDMI handshake always takes some time, and Windows is particularly annoying with displays in my experience. Even if I plug my display in directly without any interruption or switching, simply changing between "active" and "disabled" in Windows causes all connected displays to turn on and off for several seconds. Windows often scrambles which display has my icons and open programs, too. I see how that'd be a big problem for you. Its not home and not theater, but I'm looking into it.
The ideal approach off the top of my head would be to have the display already "on" and connection negotiated, then just not display the image until its needed. I've got a few ideas:
- There are fast HDMI switchers out there. They are the ones that have an option to display which ever input is currently active, but support only one output each. They are cheap, though. This product on Amazon claims that the connected PCs can have their output as "always on", then it simply displays either the first active one or the one selected via remote. $40 https://www.amazon.ca/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y
- Try looking into "presentation switchers" instead. They start pretty cheap at B&H, but would do more what you want. KannexPro, for example,even has UltraFast HDMI switchers boasting 0.2 seconds switching time. This particular one is pricier at $500, but it says it can pre-store the EDID information of multiple displays to switch HDCP signals faster: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1424577-REG/kanexpro_hdmx42_18g_4x2_hdmi_2_0_4k_60.html
- Perhaps instead of connecting them as displays, have you tried adding a capture card to the PCs and connecting the output of that to a switch? This should at least negate Windows messing with it
- Or, alternatively have a PC/laptop/cheap Android tablet connected to the projector, and have it remotely display the content of one of the other PCs via wired LAN? You can probably get a sufficient connection going over LAN
You're talking about an HDMI switcher or a splitter? Assuming you mean a switcher, I'd recommend Kinivo. Good quality and even comes with a remote to change input so you don't have to get up and push a button on it.
Get one of these and you can have multiple devices plugged into the rear HDMI in
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Electronics-Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1452462932&sr=1-7&keywords=hdmi+switch
Has anyone used any of these HDMI switchers before?
I'm getting one for use with my Switch/Wii U/SNES Classic/NES Classic
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049SCB2Y
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BV1XBIY/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QQA6K84/
I'd recommend this if you don't need to view them simultaneously: http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=pd_cp_pc_0
I use it for switching between HDMI device inputs on my TV... it's responsive... less then a second between changing inputs. Just run the 3 HDMI cables into this and then 1 out to a monitor. You won't even need a laptop. I like this option better then simultaneous anyways because you can get a full screen view.
I maxed out connections on my TV very quickly, as my 51" plasma only has 2 HDMI inputs. I have one HDMI cable running to my PC, and the other to my PS3. To make matters worse, the inputs are on the back of the TV and it's mounted on a wall.
So what I do is just leave the same cable plugged into the TV at all times, and if I ever want want to play my 360, I'll unplug the HDMI cable from the back of the PS3 and stick it into the 360. It's a lot easier than having to fumble around behind the TV. But not everyone has easy access to the back of their PS3/360 like I do, and even for me it's still annoying... Good thing I don't play my 360 much.
However, there is such a thing as an HDMI splitter.
An HDMI switch turns one HDMI port into five. Would this help?
Kinivo 501BN Premium 5 port High speed HDMI switch with IR wireless remote and AC Power adapter - supports 3D, 1080p https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_-qDfvb1G3M7P0
I have been using this one for about half a year with a lot of success. I also bought a big pack of AmazonBasics long HDMI cables to go with it. I think at the beginning I had one issue with a screen flickering, but I unplugged and replugged and I haven't had an issue for a long time. My real issue is when I'm playing PS4 in the morning and my PS3 comes on to auto-update and this switcher auto-switches to the PS3. Gah! Wait a min switchy thing. Just have to push the button on it to force switch when that happens. I like it so far.
https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y
If it helps, I have a PS4, PS3, Steam Streamer Box, PS2, and Wii all plugged into it going into a Samsung HDMI TV (not 4K).
If you're curious, I have HDMI adapters in the Wii and PS2, so that's how that works. They also are great and I got them off Amazon, can't recall which obscure brand. Though they do occasionally have their issues since they're all weird knockoff checp things.
I bought a Kinivo 501BN and have been very happy with it. It has 4 in and 1 out, so between this and the other HDMI input on your receiver, you'd have your needs met.
My only complaint about the Kinivo product is that you can't disable the auto-switching.
I highly recommend this one, I have it and have had zero issues with it.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049SCB2Y/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Having an issue using an hdmi switch + audio extractor and wanted to see if anyone had some ideas.
Currently I'm using this 5 port switch which then outputs to this audio extractor which is then fed into my PC for listening. This works perfectly for my PS4 but I get no audio when the switch is docked.
I have this but it does have 1 dead input and WAS $29.99 when I bought it. It auto detects usually when I turn on a new device.
Most HDMI switches only changes the input based on power state changes and not on modern CEC commands that Chromecast uses when you start casting.
Chromecast is always on so it won't work, it will only forward the command to set the correct input on the TV and not on the switch itself, unless you're willing to pay more for a CEC-Enabled Switch. And I think at this point you should be looking to upgrade your TV/AVR so you can have CEC built in instead.
Then if you need more HDMI inputs, you can get a cheap one like this. Using it for more than a year and ARC and CEC passthrough works perfectly. It also switch back to the last active device in order when you shutdown one and never needed to use the remote!
Would like to know about this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049SCB2Y/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3TG9YEWX61L6A&psc=1
Planning on getting it, but I'm now not sure if it works okay with the Switch.
Kinivo 501BN is supported according to the Harmony compatibility page. Won't be setting it up until after the holidays, so I can't speak from personal experience.
He said it was in the software already, many devices are already in the Harmony database.
I bought this one back in 2012 and I still use it with my harmony, pretty sure it was already in the database.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049SCB2Y
Kinivo 501BN, been using this exact model since i bought the switch in may last year
was using the 3 port one before i bought the switch though
For non-simultaneous playback:
Here's what you could do:
Buy one 3.5mm Stereo Male to Two RCA Male Splitter Cable, and one 2 x RCA Male, 1 x 3.5mm Stereo Female, Y-Cable 6-Inch. Also get a 3-Way Audio Video AV RCA Switch Selector Box Splitter. That all together is $9.82 US.
Connect the xbox to your TV as normal. Use the RCA cable included with the splitter to connect your TV's audio output to the Splitter's Input 1. You don't need to connect the yellow video connection on that cable. Then use a male 3.5mm Stereo to RCA cord to connect your laptop/iphone's headphone jack to the Splitter's Input 2. Plug the 2 x RCA Male, 1 x 3.5mm Stereo Female, Y-Cable 6-Inch cable into the Splitter's Output, and connect your headphones to the 3.5mm female end. You should then easily be able to switch between ipod/laptop and xbox/tv sound feeding to your headphones by adjusting the splitter's output switch. This is a very basic setup, but should achieve what you're going for as long as you didn't want the two inputs playing simultaneously.
For simultaneous playback:
Here's what you could do (I admit this is probably a bit of a wrap around way of doing it, but it was fun to come up with):
Buy:
Two Behringer MICROMIX MX400 4-Channel Mixer, one 3.5mm Stereo Male To 2 RCA Male Cable, one Male RCA to male RCA cable, one male RCA to female 3.5mm cable, six 3.5mm to 2RCA female adapter, and six 1/4 inch to 1/8 inch stereo jack adapters. This setup without shipping and handling costs $75.55 US.
This thing only outputs in mono though, so it doesn't benefit your headphones greatly (only one side will play sound). This is why we're gonna get two of them though, and this is the fun part. Check out this picture: http://i.imgur.com/UPMX5j2.png. It has the steps included with a crude illustration. The benefit of this setup is that you can have the ipod/laptop coming in at a different volume than the tv/xbox. Also has space for two more inputs if your ever have more you want to plug in (or to allow a laptop and ipod to be plugged in at the same time).
I... I think that setup would work.
You might be looking for an audio input switcher. This one will work, but might not grant a good enough audio signal.
If you want to use both at the same time I'd recommend using some kind of mixer (Numark M101 or Behringer Xeny 502/302).
The more studio oriented options (eg. Nowsonic Switcher, SM Pro Audio M-Patch 2, Samson C-Control) will probably do a better job (less loss in audio quality), however they obviously are not cheaper.
Your Mackies take an RCA Input. SO you need to split that RCA Input into three connections. This will become quite convoluted and require LOTS of adapters, as it just isn't what these speakers were meant for.
You could use one of these and then run your turntable in with RCAs (you might require a pre-amp), you can use your 3.5mm jack output on your pc with a 3.5mm male to rca male adapter like this and a second one of those adapters to go from echo to splitter.
With this setup you could play any of those devices on the Mackies, but only one at a time
Switch boxes for RCA connections are SOOO cheap
My setup is
AT-LP120-USB -> Schitt Magni 2 Uber -> Headphones
The Schiit Magni 2 Uber has a pre-amp output so when you unplug the headphones it will output the sound to your powered speaker or amplifier.
You could always use a RCA splitter like this one but I'm not sure if it will affect the sound or not.
http://www.amazon.com/AGPtek%C2%AE-Switch-Selector-Splitter-Xbox360/dp/B004T8KZCM
Quick amazon search came across this: http://www.amazon.com/3-Way-Switch-Selector-Splitter-XBOX360/dp/B004T8KZCM
I have all my systems hooked into my Vizio. So i'm pretty sure they can run on any television, just comes down to preference. And I know i've seen people post that they use splitters like this to connect all their systems. I'm not there yet, but once I move out i'll be investing in these and maybe a few of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Philips-SPP1591WA-Protector-Flexible-Outlets/dp/B000XRXCCS/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1334657097&sr=1-3
Hope I helped!
When you say regular cable splitters would you mean something like this? http://www.amazon.com/Composite-Audio-Selector-Switch-Splitter/dp/B004T8KZCM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425191540&sr=8-1&keywords=av+splitter
The adapters you linked may work if you connect both whites to one and both reds to the other, then plug them in to the respective connections on the amp. It might cause interference issues and lack of sound quality though. You'd be better off with a switch allowing you to have multiple inputs connected and just switch between them. Something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004T8KZCM?cache=23a6b60c146f7421487c35a2c978e574&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1413936428&sr=1-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1
is cheap and would work. It also handles video input. There are more advanced ones too with more inputs or a remote, etc.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B004T8KZCM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This thing just arrived after I bought it looking for a splitter to use with my easycap to record some melee. Did I fuck up, because I don't think this is what I wanted. If so, any recommendations for cheap splitters from amazon.ca?
That'd work fine, assuming just 1080p60, there are cheaper models available too such as this https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-HD1832-Intelligent-Adapter-Supports/dp/B008D6YZXG/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1495490714&sr=1-4&keywords=hdmi+switch+remote
Not a specific TV recommendation, but remember that you can just buy a cheap HDMI switch if the model you want doesn't have enough HDMI ports. At that budget that's a real possibility. Honestly, I would recommend one anyway because many will automatically detect what input is being used and switch for you.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008D6YZXG/
This is the one I use and it works flawlessly.
Amazon HDMI
You could just buy an hdmi switch.. they are not expensive.
Here is a powered one on amazon for $15
I purchased this one a while back. It's works really well for what I need it to do. It has my PS4, Wii U, and a Firestick attached to it.
I bought mine from Amazon.ca, but it is very similar to this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008D6YZXG/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1483713385&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=hdmi+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=51lrSjiGLsL&ref=plSrch
Keep an eye on the supported resolution, 1080p vs 4k, and for the latter 30Hz vs 60Hz.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008D6YZXG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I bought this one, changes the input automatically when you turn something in and it has a remote.
This one seems like a good offer in case your TV has only 1 HDMI input.
https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-HD1831-3-Port-Switch-Pigtail/dp/B008GVOVK0/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1485620028&sr=1-3&keywords=hdmi+switch
https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-HD1831-3-Port-Switch-Pigtail/dp/B008GVOVK0/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1468448312&sr=1-4
I use that to connect my ps3, ps4 and 360 to a single HDMI in. You can look for a 2 to 1 switch since thats what you would need, but you can't beat that price.
Look for something like this:
http://www.coolice.com.au/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=7287
Which will take care of the rca and dvi parts of your set up, then get a vga to hdmi cable and a display port to HDMI cable and plug them all into a HDMI "hub" like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-HD1831-3-Port-Switch-Pigtail/dp/B008GVOVK0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1411160672&sr=8-2&keywords=hdmi+hub
I'm not entire sure what scart is but if you have questions let me know!
This one is the one I use and works well, saw it on quite a few top lists.
HDMI switch
Seriously, it takes one Amazon or Google search.
buy console
buy this thing
put console on top of/behind/in drawer/on floor near PC
buy cheap games off amazon
enjoy all the games you missed
I've used this Fosmon 3 port switch with no problems. I use it to connect my PS3, Xbox 360, and Retron 5 so that my current gen consoles get their own dedicated HDMI port on my TV.
Fosmon 3 Port HDMI switch
It’s not nearly as fancy as the one someone else posted, but I got this one four years ago and it works just fine AND it’s only $9.
You can throw away the sound bar and replace it with a receiver and proper speakers. You could also upgrade your TV and use its optical out. Lastly you could be super ghetto and daisy chain HDMI switch to an HDMI splitter. You would then need to throw away whatever old device you have that didn't use HDMI.
This should do nicely. With this device, you can switch between 3 input devices.
Here's a 3-port HDMI switch with ok reviews. Also it's only 12 bucks. The ad says it supports up to 1900x1200 resolution so if that's not enough I'd just search around for "HDMI switch" on amazon. Link
An HDMI Switch of some kind is probably easiest. You can get them wicked cheap if you're willing to wait awhile on shipping.
You are aware that using an HDMI splitter will only mirror your PC on on both screens?
Two of these would do the trick though.
But there is no way for me to add a power source to either one? I don't think so. I would assume there would need to be a port for that. If the fix was this easy, I'd be very happy. Here are the two HDMI switches I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N5GERR5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008GVOVK0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
That splitter plus an HDMI switch (like this one https://www.amazon.com/PORTTA-PET0301S-Switcher-Supports-Wireless/dp/B00B46XUQU/ref=sr_1_13?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1474643366&sr=1-13&keywords=hdmi+switch) might be your best option.
My only concern would be the splitter supporting HDCP.
Are you trying to have both hooked up at once so you don't have to keep switching the HDMI cable between the laptop and Wii U?
I think that's what you mean, and if it is you can probably just use this:
http://www.amazon.com/PORTTA-PET0301S-Switcher-Supports-Wireless/dp/B00B46XUQU
You can always get an HDMI switcher box. Not a perfect setup, but I wouldn't let the number of HDMI ports keep you from an otherwise good choice.
PORTTA PET0301S 3x1 Port HDMI Switch/Switcher 1080P Supports 3D with IR Wireless Remote Ultra High... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B46XUQU/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_IA28tb1635VYP
Good reviews works great with ps4
http://www.amazon.com/Portta-PET0301S-HDMI-Switcher-Support/dp/B00B46XUQU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394714831&sr=8-1&keywords=hdmi+switch
something like this?
http://www.amazon.com/Switch-Switcher-Supports-Wireless-Remote/dp/B00B46XUQU/ref=sr_1_1?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1414089837&sr=1-1
I have this one
Cheap as all hell and does the job!
If your videocard's hdmi port is already in use, you have a couple of options. 1. connect the new monitor using the DVI port. 2. purchase an hdmi switcher.
I use something like this to switch between my PC, Xbox360 and PS4.
http://www.amazon.com/PORTTA-PET0301S-Switcher-Supports-Wireless/dp/B00B46XUQU/ref=sr_1_1?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1419696808&sr=1-1&keywords=hdmi+switch
Option 1 is the cheapest as it uses an existing port and your monitor will most probably come with a DVI cable. I would recommend option 2 only if you are looking to push audio via the hdmi cable to a monitor with speakers.
I have this one:
http://www.amazon.com/MASSCOOL-HS-MA103-Amplifier-Switch-3-In-1/dp/B002VD2CF0/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1421006719&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=MASSCOOL+hdmi+switch
But another user with the same problem used this one with success:
http://www.amazon.com/Portta-PET0301S-HDMI-Switcher-Support/dp/B00B46XUQU/
They look virtually identical and are probably made by the same company.
just buy a hdmi splitter.
http://www.amazon.com/Portta-PET0301S-HDMI-Switcher-Support/dp/B00B46XUQU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376961070&sr=8-1&keywords=hdmi+switch
i just bought this one and its kinda shitty ir doesnt work but the switch works. There are much better ones available
I have one! It's not perfect but it works well enough to get the job done and it's better than switching cords around. This one is what I have. I have had it since September 2014 and my only issues are:
Sometimes when I power my TV and device (I have PS4, PS3, and DirecTV plugged in to it) It will be on the channel of the thing I have on but will display no image
Sometimes I will have no audio when I turn the stuff on
The remote is not RFID and I'm spoiled, you have to point it right at the little sensor and the sensor's wire isn't very long.
The audio and image issues are easily solved by just changing the channel back and forth on the splitter.
You may want to consider something like THIS then.
This one is VGA and I imagine you have DVI or HMDI, so you'll have to do some searching.
Edit: Fixed the link.
I plan on using an HDMI switch going into the XB1. $10 on Amazon..
http://www.amazon.com/Portta-PET0301S-HDMI-Switcher-Support/dp/B00B46XUQU/ref=pd_ybh_13
http://www.amazon.com/Portta-PET0301S-HDMI-Switcher-Support/dp/B00B46XUQU/ref=sr_sp-atf_title_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1374362852&sr=1-1&keywords=Hdmi+switch
This is what I have, I ran out of hdmi ports so I use this. It works by always being defaulted to #1 output, but if it senses signal from a different port it automatically switches. It also comes with a remote in case you want to switch hdmi outputs manually.
The first reason, okay but come on mang... http://www.amazon.com/Portta-PET0301S-HDMI-Switcher-Support/dp/B00B46XUQU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1368511713&sr=8-1&keywords=HDMI+hub
I can't find it, there are like dozens of cheap ones on amazon, and the brands are always changing. My exact one isn't there anymore, but this one looks close.
http://www.amazon.com/PORTTA-PET0301S-Switcher-Supports-Wireless/dp/B00B46XUQU
Here's a switch that can do up to 8 different inputs. Probably your best bet: http://www.amazon.com/MT-VIKI-AV-Splitter-Selector-Switch/dp/B00DRGDBTG/
(sidenote, the photograph on amazon is actually two units stacked on top of each other. It's half that size. All the plugs go in the back, buttons in the front)
I have one of the same selectors and they are great. Might be worth getting it, I remember them hard to find but this was years ago.
If you want something from Amazon, I have this one and I know it's recommended on here a lot. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DRGDBTG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_xeTLxbJP1SFDK
I was tired of keeping a sticky note on my switchbox to know which switch did what. Whole thing cost me around 3 dollars. Sorry if this post is somewhat irrelevant to the sub.
Switchbox I used:
https://www.amazon.com/MT-VIKI-Splitter-Selector-Adapter-MT-831AV/dp/B00DRGDBTG
Link to the labels:
http://www.redbubble.com/people/oldskoorebel/collections/544143-switchbox-labels
EDIT: forgot to mention this, but I'll make custom labels for anyone that asks. Just number the console labels you want
Here's one with 8 inputs. Two of these daisy chained would work well.
Not OP, but this is the one I use and it comes highly recommended aroud here when this topic comes up:
http://www.amazon.com/MT-VIKI-AV-Splitter-Selector-Switch/dp/B00DRGDBTG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1392184555&sr=8-2&keywords=av+switch
Ah, cable management, every collector's nightmare. Do yourself a favor and go the extra mile now while you can organize it from the beginning instead of just getting it all set up and worrying later. It's a real pain in the ass to wade through cables and the like. I'd recommend finding yourself an AV switch kinda like this. It will save you a lot of hassle if you dont have enough ports on your TV, and judging by your spread, you probably will need one. That way you can twist-tie all your cables from the get go without having to worry about them going loose from plug-switching. Also, invest in a nice surge protector.
I use two of these switch boxes to toggle between consoles. It's not the cleanest/slickest setup, but they're cheap and they work!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DRGDBTG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Yes both are av switches. The one with s-video is http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DSQMVKU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1420291068&sr=8-1&dpPl=1&dpID=51uveTmBlCL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SX200_QL40 and the one with just composite is http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DRGDBTG/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1420291068&sr=8-3&dpPl=1&dpID=41lebNURx6L&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SX200_QL40
The S video switch has five inputs and two outputs, the composite switch has eight inputs and one output. The one with S video is autoswitching but requires power. If I had it to do again I would just buy two autoswitching S video boxes. They were cheaper and easier to use. Quality on both seems good.
You could use an optical switch like this, I expect: https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-TOSLINK-Digital-Switcher-VHD-TS3X1/dp/B00G188Z7A
The transmitter comes with an optical in port as well as an optical out port. Not sure if you could connect to your receiver via optical out, I've never tried that. You could also use the analog in as well, but you probably would want the optical connection I assume. In this review it mentions that he connected the transmitter to the optical on his t.v. and got all audio through headset without switching a thing(scroll down)
http://theslanted.com/2013/12/12663/steelseries-spotlight-rival-mouse-9h-headset-h-wireless-headset/
Switches are cheap and work great:
http://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-TOSLINK-Digital-Optical-Switcher/dp/B00G188Z7A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394144689&sr=8-1&keywords=ViewHD+SPDIF
Sorry I couldn't be more help on that issue.
ViewHD SPDIF | TOSLINK Digital Optical Audio Switcher 3x1 with Remote (Three Inputs to One Output) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G188Z7A/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_gze2tb11FJ23X9YX
This is what I used. And then plugged the USB into my TV USB port. Works great. Passes 5.1 to the transmitter perfectly.
Hah. Well... I tried. Here's another shot:
https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-TOSLINK-Digital-Optical-Switcher/dp/B00G188Z7A
https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Digital-Analog-Decoder-VHD-51CAD/dp/B00MSD26TK
This gets you three optical inputs, DD/DTS decoding, 5.1 analog out, a volume control, and (two) remote control.
No idea about getting these things to Croatia, but like much of the China product at this end of the spectrum there are equivalent (perhaps identical) items sold under many different names.
No TV is going to have more than one RF port. You can either daisy-chain the RF adapters for the consoles (I'd try this, and stick with it as long as the image doesn't look any worse), or you can get an RF switch. I've only ever seen 2-port RF switches. https://www.amazon.com/RCA-VH71-B-Slide-Switch/dp/B00009W3F2/
For composite, some TVs will have more than one, but an easier solution is to just get a composite switch box. These are incredibly common, and can probably be found at a local store. You can get them in anywhere from 2-5 inputs pretty cheap. Here's a 3-input one: https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-Technology-Selector-Splitter-Connecting/dp/B00HNCPR92/
As for PVMs, they do not have TV tuners in them, and therefore do not take an RF input. You can connect any standard VCR, however, and this will enable you to input RF into the VCR and output this signal to the PVM as composite video.
Oh that's easy then! You can get splitters like this where you can just flip back and forth between the inputs when you want. Some others may come with a remote.
If you really want to just have both always on I believe you'd need a mixer like this one but they are more expensive than a simple splitter.
Active speakers are typically designed to be used by one device. That's their main benefit...you don't need a full receiver to connect them to...you can just plug them directly into whatever audio source you want and be done.
If you want to use powered speakers with multiple inputs, you need to figure out how to switch between the multiple inputs. One option is to just run both into one input using Y-splitters. That means you'd have your computer and your turntable plugged into the same inputs at the same time.
This is the cheapest solution...but obviously you'd want to avoid playing both at once.
You could also buy an actual switch as well:
https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-A1602-Splitter-Connecting-Devices/dp/B00HNCPR92/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493661472&sr=8-1&keywords=rca+input+switch
So that solves the speaker portion, but not the headphone side. So you still need a headphone amp (since it appears those speakers do not have headphone outputs). So you could get another switch and essentially have the ability to switch the inputs (turntable v computer) and then on the other side a switch to change the outputs (powered speakers v headphone amp).
At that point, however, you may want to consider going back to a good ol set of passive speakers and a proper receiver that would include multiple inputs and headphone out for you. (Or, alternatively, get powered speakers that include a headphone jack).
You don't need a mixer unless you want to play the piano and the turntable at the same time. You can simply plug whichever one one you're using into the receiver, and unplug the other.
This is a bit of hassle, so you can buy something like this switch to switch between the TT and the piano.
Since you have a receiver, you're looking for passive as opposed to active speakers. Since you're playing the piano, you'll want accurate sound reproduction, so studio monitors would be a good choice.
With decent speakers, you don't need a subwoofer to play the piano. You might want one for your music. There aren't really any speakers that don't need a subwoofer - it always helps. (I don't have one because the 5.5" drivers in my speakers give enough bass for what I listen to, but I would get one if I listened to more EDM for example.)
Or maybe you don't need to run another audio cable across the room
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KXVBB3Q/ref=twister_B00M0X1VPS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You could get a HDMI Switcher or an AV Switch, these are pretty cheap, and can maximize your existing slots.
Juts make sure you get remote controlled switches, as i find that with 9 retro consoles, and a few newer ones, including steamlink for PC, Tivo box etc, a controller really makes it viable.
Here is Amazon.com "Selector Switch section"
You want an audio selector switch. RCA males into the females in on selector, male RCA to 1/4 adapter out.
Edit: Something like this, but I just selected this as an example, no idea if this one is good or not.
And I would think the place for the volume control would be on the selector switches out to the speakers. But don't the speakers already have volume control?
I've never seen a receiver that has an optical OUTPUT they traditionally only have optical INPUT, so pretty much you'll have to use the headphone output on a receiver. Receivers are meant to be the end of the "audio train" so they don't usually include many outputs. Run all your sources to the receiver and one 3.5mm to RCA into the back of the CM15 soundbar.
Edit: Also, you're right in that you don't need a nice receiver if it's only an AV hub, you're not actually powering speakers off of it so a cheap one works fine.
Edit 2: maybe something like [this.](Panlong 4-Way AV Switch RCA Switcher 4 In 1 Out Composite Video L/R Audio Selector Box for DVD STB Game Consoles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KXVBB3Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dHIpybSFEYJVC)
Given your set up, you could use something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Switcher-Composite-Selector-Consoles/dp/B00KXVBB3Q/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1449488384&sr=8-5&keywords=rca+switch
Plug your TV sound out and the output RCA connectors from your phono pre-amp to it. Then run the outputs from it into your Rokits.
The Schiit Sys will definitely do it, although you don't need the potentiometer. There are cheaper input switchers on Amazon. IDK which are of best quality. For example, https://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Switcher-Composite-Selector-Consoles/dp/B00KXVBB3Q
Oh I thought you wanted to be playing from stuff at the same time.
You could get an RCA switcher like this.
If you're a hip hop fan you're probably going to want something with a sub. I see a few options for you.
> I believe these speakers are active since there is a power switch
Yeah if they plug into the wall then they are powered.
> I assume I need some sort of pre-amp to boost the quality and volume.
EDIT: what adayinalife said, check your turntable for a built in preamp.
Yeah you do, Don't bother with tube preamps. A good quality one will be expensive and a cheap tube preamp will be a low quality gimmick. Just get a solid state preamp. The ProJect Phono Box range is worth looking at.
If you want to avoid manually switching you can get an audio selector box like this
The Yellow Composite Cable is shared with the Green Component input (second pic where it says "Video/Y"). Then just plug in the red & white audio to the left of that.
Then get something like this to switch consoles.
This and This should sort you out.
Yes, it’s called an RCA Switcher.
https://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Switcher-Composite-Selector-Consoles/dp/B00KXVBB7C
Take a look at this. I use this for my game collection. I still have to use two switches though.
http://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Switcher-Composite-Selector-Consoles/dp/B00KXVBB7C
I have a couple of these here. Then use a AV to HDMi converter for the big screen since it doesn't have any av hook ups. Im sure there are better solutions out there but this was reasonably inexpensive.
Edit* you can see one of them on top of the Xbox 360.
https://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Switcher-Composite-Selector-Consoles/dp/B00KXVBB7C/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=av+switch&qid=1574462496&sprefix=av+swi&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyWVMxRVE3V1o3UUlLJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDUxNzk3SzhFMzlKVjZOUUVIJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA2MjIwNTYxTERXR0pFTEZCWVY4JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfcGhvbmVfc2VhcmNoX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
I use this switcher to switch between my second monitor and the Rift. It doesn't turn on.
Might consider a bidirectional HDMI switch, then there's no wear on the components and it's just an easy button press. Mine arrives today and I'll see if it behaves with the CV1. I picked up this one : http://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-HD8024-Bi-Directional-Switcher-Passthrough/dp/B00LFX1UDM
I recently bought this by mistake, but im sure they come in other flavors.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00LFX1UDM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
HDMI Input ---> Button Swaps between two outputs. But the setup you are looking for might be kinda hard to setup.
I use composite myself, but I do notice diminished video quality when using un-powered cable splitters. I would assume that S-video would probably be the same way. So if you're concerned about quality you'll probably want to look into a powered distribution amp (probably something like this, just make sure it has multiple outputs), and then run S-video cables from that to your TV and capture card.
You're gonna need a splitter- Signal comes from the console into the splitter, then a line from the splitter goes into the CRT TV and a line goes into your capture card.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010EIK6K6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is one of the more commonly used splitters. If you look in the "Frequently Bought Together" section, you'll see some extra cables you'll need. There's also a I-o capture card in that section. It's a small, cheap japanese capture card that's super easy to set up and use, and comes highly recommended for streaming RCA consoles. If your setup with the RCA to HDMI converter doesn't work or seems laggy for any reason, you might want to give that one a try.
EDIT: In addition, DO NOT BUY a CRT TV online. Online sellers have caught on to the fact that CRTs are fashionable as "retro gaming TVs", and have been jacking up the price. If you don't have one, ask around. Check craigslist. Go to Goodwill or a similar "junk I no longer need" store. You should be able to get one for next to free. Another side note is that some TVs have a "Game" or "Input" mode that there is no button for on the TV. You'll need a universal remote from Walmart/Best Buy/etc to access it. In general with old TVs, the more recognizable the brand name, the better.
EDIT EDIT: With the proper settings, MANY games will not give you problems playing on a flatscreen modern monitor. That said, if it's a game that requires a lot of precise execution/has anything pixel or frame perfect, you're still better off with a CRT.
It looks like what you have there will do what you intend without switching. Simply turn the device on that you want to use, or have both.
If you wanted to toggle, this looks like it will do what you want. It can combine or split depending on how you connect to it - two monitors on the dual end and one pc on the single end makes it a splitter.
EDIT:
You might also consider an HDMI switch. which will allow you to just click a button and switch between PC input and PS3 input. Most of these (Unless expensive) don't include any alternative audio option, just HDMI <-> HDMI
.....
EDIT 2:
If you JUST want to record the video on your PC, and don't want to display it live, any capture card will do, whether internal or external, and is just about the only way to go - very, very few video cards have bidirectional HDMI ports, so you likely only have output on your PC
.....
The linked item (The Easycap) is along the right lines, but not quite there. The PS3 will not allow dual video output in this manner. it only supports one output, and you can only switch between the two, not have both.
The better way is to stick with HDMI, but install a video capture card with HDMI passthrough in your computer. Plug PS3 HDMI into the capture card, and plug the cards output to your monitor. I know they can be expensive, but it's the proper way in this case. The one I linked is relatively nice, there are probably cheaper options with passthrough capability - I just don't feel like searching through results for the best bang/buck ratio.
This should also allow you to use the capture card's audio output (3.5mm on this card) to connect to your speakers for sound that's pulled from the HDMI - meaning you can forgo the component cable entirely.
Without passthrough it'd still be possible, but you'd basically have to stream the video to yourself- meaning there's likely to be some video lag compared to passthrough or direct connection. The one you linked would require this kind of setup, which is not ideal.
I have this one, works fine for my Switch.
HDMI Switcher 2 Ports Bi-direction Manual Switch 2 x 1 / 1 x 2 HDMI Hub-HDCP Passthrough-Supports Ultra HD 4K 3D 1080P By DotStone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8LLP2G?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Check out this one: http://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-TOSLINK-Digital-Optical-Switcher/dp/B00G188Z7A
While I haven't used the optical switcher, I have used their HDMI switcher and it worked perfectly. Seems to have great reviews!
I see, not a particularly easy to mesh set of components to put together but this should allow you to use optical on all sources for surround sound
http://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-TOSLINK-Digital-Optical-Switcher/dp/B00G188Z7A
I bought this one and it works great. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00G188Z7A/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This one here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G188Z7A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
It's been working well so far - it has an IR receiver with a 3 foot cord and a 3m pad so you can stick it wherever you want.
link
Try google first
The best way to go about this is to get some sort of RCA stereo switch. You don't need anything fancy. I use this:
Fosmon A1602 RCA Splitter with 3-Way Audio, Video RCA Switch Box + RCA Cable for Connecting 3 RCA Output Devices to Your TV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HNCPR92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_34T4Ab1ZHH6BA
You'll go:
Turntable to pre-amp to switch
CD player to switch
Switch to speakers. Then just click the button to whatever source you're using.
For just a bit more, you could get an actual video switch.
I was thinking of something like this
You will get double amplification from the speakers and it's not gonna sound pleasant. You can buy an rca hub/splitter and add it after the preamp instead.
Edit: this would work
Okay, so the issue here is that you're not sending a digital input to the DAC from the iPad. In my opinion, take the L on being able to use both devices through the Modi. What you can do is get an RCA switch where you select what goes into the Magni.
Cheap: https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-A1602-Splitter-Connecting-Devices/dp/B00HNCPR92/
Expensive: https://www.schiit.com/products/sys
I would just use a 3.5mm to RCA male from the iPad, and RCA cables from the Modi connected to the desktop. Put those into the switch and output to the Magni.
You already have a Modi right? I would just leave that connected to the PC and pick up an SMSL 793ii and use that with the PS4. If you want to keep using the Magni as the amplifier then I would get a FiiO D03K or SMSL 192-Pro and a stereo RCA switcher like this. Otherwise, yeah you'd be looking at selling the Modi you have and picking up the uber version instead unless you have some other use for two Modis.
https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-A1602-Splitter-Connecting-Devices/dp/B00HNCPR92/ref=sr_1_11?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505857961&amp;sr=1-11&amp;keywords=rca+audio+switcher
I'm using this thing from Amazon. It feels exactly as cheap as it costs, but it does the job!
I use this (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNCPR92/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1). I use a 3.5 to RCA cable for my headphones. My speakers use RCA. I have it taped to the underside of my desk.
Something like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HNCPR92/ref=psdcmw_597546_t1_B00J6W8D0C
You'll only be able to use one at a time though.
OP, are you asking about like a video switch? Something that would take in all the video signals and allow you to switch between signals on the fly? Or are you asking about a device that plays all different sorts of games?
If you're asking about a video switch of some kind, you can definitely get them from Amazon.
If you're asking about a device that plays "all" games, the closest you're going to get is just emulation on a PC. Other than that, you'll have to look at devices like the Retron, but that only covers NES, SNES and Genesis.
You could get powered speakers that have both optical and bluetooth inputs - like these:
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/Edifier-R1280DB-Bluetooth-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B0719C132V/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1550988904&sr=8-4&keywords=powered+speakers
&#x200B;
Your TV likely has optical out - even if it doesn't you can use analog out. If your computer can output via bluetooth, then both inputs would be digital. There's also powered speakers that accept a USB connection.
&#x200B;
Problem with powered speakers is that it's hard to set up a sub. If you wanted to go with a sub as well, you could get this:
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/rolls-SX45-Tiny-Stereo-Crossover/dp/B00102VWJK
&#x200B;
And run the low frequencies to the sub and rest to the mains.
&#x200B;
If you want to run a separate amp, I have heard that the TPA311X series class D amplifier chips sound good. See: https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-TPA3116-Channel-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B00WTOAC1M
&#x200B;
Then run speaker level output to your sub, and from your sub back to your mains. You could use an RCA switcher to control inputs to the amp. Like:
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/d/Selector-Switch-Boxes/Panlong-Switcher-Composite-Selector-Consoles/B00KXVBB3Q/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1550989665&sr=8-4&keywords=rca+switch+box
&#x200B;
(You won't need the video connections).
&#x200B;
&#x200B;
&#x200B;
You can add a switch behind the scaler so you would only need one:
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Switcher-Composite-Selector-Consoles/dp/B00KXVBB3Q/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1538053628&sr=8-4&keywords=rca+switch
https://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Switcher-Composite-Selector-Consoles/dp/B00KXVBB3Q?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1
do you think something like this would do the trick?
>The only problem I really have is that I have to hook up the only 240p console I have (Sega Genesis) via RF because all of the other AV and component ports are taken up and I don't even know if it would work.
They sell switch boxes for this type of problem. You plug 3 or 4 systems into one switch box, and then you switch to whatever console you want to use on the box.
Here's a cheap random one I found: https://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Switcher-Composite-Selector-Consoles/dp/B00KXVBB3Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479606490&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=rca+audio+switcher
An RCA splitter is like $10 for up to 4 inputs. I'm running a CD player, turntable, reel to reel, and a digital source, all through a cheap little RCA splitter.
https://www.amazon.com/d/Selector-Switch-Boxes/Panlong-Switcher-Composite-Selector-Consoles/B00KXVBB3Q/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1543081085&amp;sr=1-2-spons&amp;keywords=rca+switch&amp;psc=1
I ask because it depends on what you have. For various reasons, even though I have a receiver with multiple inputs, I wanted to have three sources run into one input but with the option to switch between the three sources easily. For that purpose, I bought this. It works perfectly. It was cheap, and easy to understand, set up, and use.
But, like I said, it depends on what the connection is like to the speaker.
How many consoles do you have? I run an N64 and GC through a switch like this
https://www.amazon.com/d/Selector-Switch-Boxes/Panlong-Switcher-Composite-Selector-Consoles/B00KXVBB3Q
For the people talking about having 6 vcrs to connect all these, that's definitely not the case. Although this is a dirty, dirty repost, I wanted to chime in to say that I have a similar setup. It's probably a little more than half as comprehensive. The easiest way to set this up is with AV switches that feed into HDMI switches. Then you just print out a handy chart so your room mates don't bitch to you about not being able to work the TV.
This is the AV switch that I use:
https://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Switcher-Composite-Selector-Consoles/dp/B00KXVBB7C
This is the HDMI switch:
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Blackbird-Enhanced-Equalizer-Control/dp/B01GCGKMTO/ref=sr_1_35?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518976317&amp;sr=1-35&amp;keywords=hdmi+switch+5x1
The HDMI switch is very important because some of the "smarter" HDMI switches will only display video encoded in certain ways. This is a giant pain in the ass. I originally got an 8 way switch but had to return it because it wouldn't display the PC output.
So basically I have all the older systems (snes, n64, dreamcast, wii, playstation 2) feeding into the AV RCA switch, which is input 1 on the hdmi switch. Then I've got Playstation 4 as input 2, Nintendo Switch as input 3, a RetroPie/Kodi setup as input 4, and a full linux media server as input 5. The HDMI switch then feeds into an elgato capture card which connects back to the media server in case we want to stream some retro games.
I have all of this set up in the most efficient way possible so that I get access to the most games possible with the least amount of hardware. I specifically chose the physical consoles that I wanted because they were hard to emulate and because I knew I could soft mod them to get a ridiculous amount of games with little overlap in catalogs. To this end I use the n64, which is not possible to emulate well on the raspberry pi 3 because of the hardware limitations and because I would have to have a whole different controller setup. The n64 to usb adapters are not good. I have two of them. Eventually I want to get an everdrive for this, and even an hdmi mod, but for now my cartridge collection is pretty extensive. I also modded it to be region free. Most of my cartridges are for this system and for SNES. The SNES is there for two reasons: firstly because sometimes there is input delay on the Pi and so if you want to play mario or something precise it's better to do it on the real deal. Also I like having the super gameboy plugged into this all the time because I make chiptunes in LSDJ. It's nice to be able to do it on a decent and reliable screen with much better speakers then be able to move the cartridge over to the gameboy whenever I want.
Dreamcast has a very unique catalog and I can literally just burn cd's to work on it as much as I want. It's an extremely efficient and cost effective system to own. The Wii is there specificall for gamecube games. It's currently softmodded with homebrew and has a usb switch in the back with about 50 of the best gamecube games. The PS2 is a similar situation. It has a big ass spinning hard drive in the back with a bunch of PS2 games. I love these types of console mods the most, but there are significant space limitations and the setup is relatively complex. It's near impossible for me to switch out new ps2 games for example.
Anyway, anything older than that gets dumped on the retropie. It does everything up to ps1 near flawlessly. We have a usb hub permanently affixed to our end table that we can conveniently attach ps4 controllers to of we want to play retropie. We can even hook up a usb keyboard for infocom games and the like.
The rub here is that most of the fun is in setting this up and showing it off. You're gonna end up using it once a month for fifteen minutes and the rest of your time you're still gonna be playing PUBG.
Just guessing, https://smile.amazon.com/Panlong-Switcher-Composite-Selector-Consoles/dp/B00KXVBB7C.
This RCA switcher will take care of your RCA needs. I would then run the output from the RCA switcher into this [RCA to HDMI converter] (https://www.amazon.com/GANA-Composite-Converter-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B01L8GG6PW/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510170964&amp;sr=1-1-spons&amp;keywords=rca+to+hdmi&amp;psc=1).
Then maybe you'd want to consider picking up 2 of these 5x1 HDMI splitters. Just make sure you keep everything labeled so you know what's what. Hope that helps!
I bought one of these a couple months ago for my CRT setup. It’s worked flawlessly and the buttons have a real satisfying ca-chunk.
That really isn't a very good TV for retro games. The Component and Composite connection share the same jacks, so you can basically only get a Composite switch, run everything into that, then out from the switch to the TV. Since the 3rd connector for the Component uses the Composite jack you will be limited to an inferior connection for everything.
Please do him a favor and really consider that Trinitron. It will be cheaper, zero input lag, way more connections, and a much better picture. (this message courtesy of /r/crtgaming)
The easiest is probably going to be a composite video switcher, something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Switcher-Composite-Selector-Consoles/dp/B00KXVBB7C
The video quality isn't fantastic, particularly on an HDTV, but it's way better than RF and all your consoles support it.
This is probably a stupid question so correct me if i am wrong, but arent there other good S-Video & Composite switch boxes like this one(Only has composite though) that are much cheaper?
CRT stands for cathode ray tube, AKA an old, big, heavy, tube TV. Retro gaming enthusiasts generally consider them the superior way to play retro game consoles.
Yes, the NES only outputs mono audio just like the AV port on the back of the model 1 Genesis. The model 1 Genesis does stereo out of its headphone jack on the front so you can pipe it into your TV or receiver using a 3.5mm to RCA plug adapter. If you want to plug the mono audio source of the Genesis or the NES into a stereo receiver or TV and get sound out of both speakers you will need to use an RCA Y-cable or splitter. Specifically you will need one with a single female RCA style plug on one end and 2 male RCA style plugs on the other. These can be fairly easily found on sites like Amazon and eBay. Be sure you get one with ONE female and TWO male connectors though.
Something similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/InstallerParts-Stereo-Female-Splitter-Most-Audio/dp/B008NCD5WC/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=rca+mono+splitter&amp;qid=1568118716&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-7
If you use a switch box for your consoles you may consider not even sending the audio to the TV unless you want to control the volume with the TV remote. I have all my retro consoles connected to an 8-way passive switch box. I send the video signal to the TV and I have the audio sent straight to my receiver. It’s just one less thing to add noise to your analog sound signal.
The passive switch boxes are fairly cheap and seem reasonably robust. They can be found on Amazon and eBay as well. I use an 8-way model but you can get 4-way models as well.
I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Switcher-Composite-Selector-Consoles/dp/B00KXVBB7C/ref=sr_1_4?crid=UBDETJBPTMBU&amp;keywords=rca+box+switch&amp;qid=1568118835&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=rca+box%2Caps%2C154&amp;sr=8-4
I bought this off Amazon, I used a label maker to label mine by system instead of numbers. It works great for me!
Panlong 8-Way AV Switch RCA Switcher 8 In 1 Out Composite Video L/R Audio Selector Box for DVD STB Game Consoles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KXVBB7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ktQRBbR5MY5KK
http://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Switcher-Composite-Selector-Consoles/dp/B00KXVBB7C
I have one of these so I have 6 systems hooked up through my KV-36FS120 .
Would highly recommend it so you don't have to constantly swap inputs.
Thank you for all that! That was a useful YouTube video, too.
I had to make the purchases yesterday, since I'll be playing with actors in the studio on Monday. That said, I still have time to buy some things.
It's a comfort that I seem to be on the right track. The biggest difference between what I bought and your suggestions is that you suggested I buy the Dock-Kings and other pricier receiver/converting gear. I'd appreciate if you could look at my list of purchased items to determine if you think it will work, or if you see some some red flags.
I suppose in the long run, if this theatre show concept shows promise, we would then invest in more reliable gear, such as no-compression wireless HDMI tx/rx. For now, here it is:
&#x200B;
4 cameras:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y5D8SPZ/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (1S LiPo)
2 x https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y56RL5P/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (1S LiPo)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0184DVN4G/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (2S or 3S LiPo)
&#x200B;
3 receivers (should I buy different antennae?):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0774SMGQN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
2 x https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H36AIGY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
&#x200B;
3 AC/DC adapters for the receivers:
3 x https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ISM267G/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
&#x200B;
3S LiPo (for 3S LiPo camera and try battery-powered Receiver)
2 x https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GF63645/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
&#x200B;
Battery chargers
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00466PKE0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Charger-Channel-Inductrix-Connectors/dp/B074M6G2MD
&#x200B;
Each receiver has an AV output + AV RCA cable. I'll plug in the RCAs from 2 or 3 receivers into this Switcher:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KXVBB7C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
&#x200B;
Using an RCA cable, connect the Switcher's Output to this RCA to HDMI converter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KTDG177/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
&#x200B;
Then HDMI to projector.
&#x200B;
Ta-da?
Ok, awesome.
Any idea if this is the same unit?
Looks the same but has a different company name on the unit -
http://www.amazon.ca/Panlong-Switcher-Composite-Switch-Selector/dp/B00KXVBB7C/ref=pd_sxp_grid_i_1_0
Your's - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DRGDBTG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Hey man I don't know about a passive switch that automatically changes based on input. I use this 8 input switch and it is awesome.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KXVBB7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HcGMDbPCX3CBD
I use two of these. They aren't 100% the best solution for video quality with an HD tv but it gets the job done :)
https://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Switcher-Composite-Selector-Consoles/dp/B00KXVBB7C
You need a Composite video switch, like this
http://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Switcher-Composite-Selector-Consoles/dp/B00KXVBB7C
They are all AV component compatible. I plugged them into this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KXVBB7C?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share which is plugged into the TV.
I have one of the "8 in 1 out" and one of the "4 in 1 out" ones both from the same company and they work well so far.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KXVBB7C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I do this as well, but I do have concern about the replug endurance of the HDMI cables. I was considering an HDMI switch but figured none would likely work.
would like to use something like this http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LFX1UDM
I have this exact setup. With a PS4 though. My PC is plugged into my right monitor and then also plugged into this:
https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-HD8024-Bi-Directional-Switcher-Passthrough/dp/B00LFX1UDM
Which is connected to both PS4 AND PC so when I hit the button it switches between the two inputs.
First of all, no splitter will allow you to use the two displays independently, it will always duplicate displays.
The best value switch I can find is this one for HDMI
https://www.amazon.ca/Fosmon-Bi-Directional-Switcher-Passthrough-Nintendo/dp/B00LFX1UDM/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=display+port+switch&qid=1562088158&s=gateway&sr=8-4
&#x200B;
Or this one (more expensive) for DP
https://www.amazon.ca/Lindy-Port-4K-DisplayPort-Switch/dp/B00ZK2S71W/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=display+port+switch&qid=1562088158&s=gateway&sr=8-6
&#x200B;
For both of these you would need two adapters.
&#x200B;
If you already have the USB splitter, maybe try USB to display port, but those are very expensive 60+ each
I just got 2 of these to hook up my ps4 and xbox to my big screen and monitor. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LFX1UDM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_KYelgDM51QhLZ
If you get another component that needs 4K 60Hz, you can always grab a cheap HDMI splitter(one that supports 4K 60 Hz). Like this one.
I have one and it works without issues. It does 4k60 without any problems though I haven't tried it with HDR. I suspect it won't work.
I have my PRO and PC going in and 1 single out to my TV but since it can also do single in, double out, I don't see why it wouldn't work between 2 outputs.
https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-HD8024-Bi-Directional-Switcher-Passthrough/dp/B00LFX1UDM
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00LFX1UDM?psc=1
I've been using a similar box for my setup for a few years and haven't had a problem.
You could try an HDMI switch. They seem to be a good bit more available than displayport.
the display is going TO the Vive, so it would be on the Output side.
it also needs to be HDMI 1.4 spec, which doesn't seem to be listed on that product's page.. so assume it's not.
maybe this one, but there's no guarantee -- https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-HD8024-Bi-Directional-Switcher-Passthrough/dp/B00LFX1UDM/
I have a dual PC setup and use an Elgato 4K60 Pro and use the Fosmon 1X2 bidirectional splitter.
Fosmon 2-Port HDMI Switch, HDMI 2.0, 4Kx2K, 60Hz, 2x1 or 1x2 Bi-Directional Splitter Hub Switcher, 2 Input 1 Output, Support UHD 4K 3D 1080p HDCP for HDTV, PS4, Xbox, Apple TV 4K, Roku, Fire Stick https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LFX1UDM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_z2B1Db98YXH97
I stream Switch/PC games and plan to also stream from my Xbox One and PS4 at some point so it was an easy choice to buy one of these and I use it everyday. It works great and saves you from having to switch HDMI cords and ruin your cable management. Best part is it’s only $13
Hope that helps.
I use https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LFX1UDM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I it's manual (button to toggle) so perhaps not exactly what you're looking for but it is bi-directional so has more uses if you ever want to repurpose. It is also a full switch, not a splitter so it passes through the control signals etc so you shouldnt have any communication issues (so long as your wires are good enough, can be finicky for some people on some cards.
To be clear I use it to switch between rift and tv on my HDMI port (for audio to the tv and fewer adapters to the rift). I use the vive off dvi port through a dvi to HDMI adapter (and then a long extension to its box, without issue).
I have this one. I have it set up opposite from your goal (one input, two outputs), but it shouldn't matter given that it is bi-directional. It is not perfect, but it works well for the price (e.g., sometimes I will have to toggle back and forth once to get the picture to work, but it always ends up working after that).
It works quite well honestly. I'll try to detail it out as best I can.
So ideally you need 2 PSN accounts. You don't need to have PS Plus on both. Log both your accounts in on your PS4. Set your PS4 as your primary PS4. Your main PSN account is logged into your PS4, your alternate account is used on the remote play app because you cannot log into one account in two places (PS4 + remote play). The alternate account is streaming the video + audio from the primary account.
My PS4 feeds into an HDMI splitter which runs to my TV and to my monitor. When playing on my monitor I log into remote play using my alternate account and log into my PS4 on my primary account. This starts the audio feed to my PC where my headphones + amp are. Then I switch my monitor display over to its HDMI port and then I have the video. There is absolutely no delay for me on the audio or any input lag. I have noticed some people mention input delay, but that I believe is only if you use a Dualshock 4 within remote play hooked up to your PC instead of the controller still being connected to your PS4 if that makes sense.
I have a Toshiba MD20F52 that I picked up at Goodwill a while back. Need to do a few color adjustments before choosing to go further, but had a question for the future of the set. Currently, I only really use my SNES (and very rarely N64 and GC), with S-Video going into a splitter (https://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-4-Output-Component-Distribution-Amplifier/dp/B010EIK6K6), with composite out to the TV and S-Video out going to a video capture device (this looks better than just composite from the console to the TV). Would it be worth trying to add S-Video to the set, and if so, what would that process look like? I haven't found a lot of information on this set online. Thanks!
E: Fixed link
You have a couple of options. These are the things you will absolutely need:
That's about all I can think of. It's daunting at first when you're trying to imagine how everything would be set up, but I promise it's not as difficult as it sounds. If you have any other questions, just reply here and I'll do my best to answer.
https://www.amazon.com/DATA-connection-video-capture-GV-USB2/dp/B00428BF1Y
This is what I use to capture the composite output for NES, SNES, and GameCube.
https://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-4-Output-Component-Distribution-Amplifier/dp/B010EIK6K6/ref=pd_aw_sim_147_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=K1A3NZAMXQP3GN77DATJ
This is what I use to split the output of the console (1 to the TV and 1 to the gv usb2).
Edit: changed component to composite because I had a lapse of thinking when I wrote it initially
I also have everything from an nes to the ps4/switch, and what I do is use an rca amplifier and splitter (to keep the signal strong, otherwise it looks dark on my TV), and then I run one video signal to my HD upscaler and then to my elgato capture card, and I run the other video signal straight to my TV. I then take the rca audio that would normally output to my TV, and instead pipe it directly to an analog mixer with USB. The other audio output goes to my upscaler so the audio and video is perfectly synced on the capture card. This gives me zero latency play on the TV and zero latency audio in my headphones, and furthermore allows independent audio control between the stream and my headphones, so I can crank the game volume if needed to listen for gameplay cues.
For hdmi audio, I use an hdmi splitter and run one to my monitor which has a headphone jack - I run this audio to my mixer using a 3.5mm to stereo rca adapter cable, and the other goes to my capture card. Same result, perfectly synced audio for the stream and perfectly synced, independent volume adjustment for my headphones.
You can do this without a mixer by just using a cable adapter to plug into your pc's line in, but there may be some latency involved and any adjustment you do for your headphones will also affect the volume on the stream. Still, a decent USB audio mixer is a good $100 or more, so it helps to do it that way instead if you're on a budget.
Edit: you can do the same with component video, s video, and rbg too, if you buy the right av distribution device. So an rgb modded nes or a ps2/GC can run at their best, if you have the cash to spend on the amplifiers/splitters and upscalers.
Generally the dual s-video/composite cables are poorly shielded and the brightness will be decreased due to having an unpowered split.
Something such as this would solve that problem and allow you to use a better shielded s-video only cable:
https://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-4-Output-Component-Distribution-Amplifier/dp/B010EIK6K6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1538597037&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=s-video+distribution+amplifier
It also converts s-video to composite so you can play composite on your TV and still capture in s-video.
Try one of these. https://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-1500320-Component-Distribution-Amplifier/dp/B010EIK6K6
The passthrough feature only works on component signals I think, and it spits out HDMI which can introduce lag if you're sensitive to it.
I use this Radioshack splitter, mostly because it's powered to prevent signal loss
I am using an amplified splitter. Specifically, I am using this amp splitter:
RadioShack 1500320 1-Input/4-Output A/V Component Video Sound S-Video Distribution Amplifier Splitter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010EIK6K6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Y3XZDb1HMYPB4
Adding a subwoofer to studio monitors is difficult, especially for a moderate system like you are proposing. It won’t be pretty, unless splitting the RCA/TRS cables. You’d have to convert computer audio to RCA, the. Plug that into something like this, then go 2x RCA->TRS to speakers and 2x RCA to sub.
I would get a Rythmik LV12R (ported) or L12 (sealed) over that SVS, much better.
EDIT: It’s easier to go with SVS, as it has RCA outputs.
Finally a question I can actually answer. For just normal Red/Yellow/White A/V cables I use this setup.
Option 1
Is there any reason you want HDMI? You can keep steps 1 and 2 from above and use something like this instead.
I can also answer any question you have.
https://www.amazon.com/Switcher-Bi-direction-Hub-HDCP-Passthrough-Supports-DotStone/dp/B01L8LLP2G/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1524259786&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=monitor+switcher
I think most people probably just directly connect their TV into their ps4 when they want HDR. Otherwise you can try something like this [HDMI Selector Switch] (Https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8LLP2G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_u1UfAb83WDN3N). Although you'd still need to walk to the ps4 to hit the button.
Make sure to buy one that supports HDR pass through.
(Since you'd need to keep this next to your ps4 I don't really see the added benefit compared to swapping your HDMI cable each time but maybe it'll work for you!)
Cheers, thanks for all the infos! So it's very unlikely that the cheap HDMI switch killed everything? Something cheap like this: https://www.amazon.com/Bi-direction-Manual-Switch-Passthrough-Supports-DotStone/dp/B01L8LLP2G
This is my current one https://www.amazon.com/Bi-direction-Manual-Switch-Passthrough-Supports-DotStone/dp/B01L8LLP2G/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;ref_=yo_ii_img
(Using my cell phone so I don't know how to hyperlink it)
I don't have the link to the last one. It was a Rocketfish from Best Buy. Thanks for the recommendation!
I'm looking to purchase the Vizio M50 for Black Friday, and it only has 1 HDR capable HDMI port (I have a Pro, PSVR, and XB1S), so I've had the same exact question as you.
This switch seems to be a good option. It almost has a 5 star rating based on over 800 reviews which is crazy. Downside is that it's not remote operated and you physically have to press a button on the unit to switch between inputs. Upside is it's only $12. The first review by Larry seems to indicate that it'll work with 4k/HDR.
Accidentally left a referral link so automoderator deleted my comment, here's a fixed variant:
You can get any old 27" 1080p and then hook up an HDMI switch. Something like this.
Edit: Removed Google's auto-appended referral link
This HDMI Bi-directiona switch will do what I need????
Yeah you would need an HDMI switch with a button to change between the two inputs. Maybe something like this
You're much better off going with a switch. I've personally bought several of these and they work great. I use one to swkfch between an Xbox and a ps4, and another to switch between an Xbox and a PC. They're cheap and they work great.
A KVM is possible, but the big advantage of a KVM is that it not only allows you to share a screen across two sources, but also an attached keyboard and mouse. Unless you intend to use a keyboard and a mouse with your Switch, I'd go for a far less expensive, 2-port HDMI switch. That's all you need if you're only concerned about video. Plus, I'd argue it has more future utility. It'll be smaller, because it has less ports and the ports it has are smaller. You could bring it with you when you travel and hook multiple things up to HDTV's at hotels or friends' places. Plus, most newer displays have HDMI ports. Buying a DVI KVM (or even a DVI-only video switcher) is going to be more expensive and clunkier.
Here's an example of stuff that would work. I am not endorsing these products at all, I'm just picking the first well-reviewed looking hit from my search results (on Amazon):
search terms: "2-port HDMI switch"
looks good: DotStone HDMI Switch Bi-Direction only $8.. You won't get anywhere near that with a KVM.
and then, with search terms "HDMI to dvi", you could probably use 1 or 2 of either these:
HDMI to DVI (cable)
or these HDMI to DVI (adapter)
If you have a ton of extra hdmi and/or dvi cables, you might prefer the adapter, otherwise you could use it on its own in cable-form. Keep in mind that in a typical setup, the Switch's audio is going through the HDMI cable as well, and whether you used a HDMI switch or a DVI KVM/switch, the connection to your monitor is going to have to terminate in DVI, and that DVI won't carry the audio. Does your monitor even have speakers? Even if it did, you most likely won't get any audio over DVI. I haven't tested this myself, but I just did a little research and found you can use the headphone jack on the Switch, while docked, to get it's audio, so depending on what's going to be playing your sound, you might need one or more things from this list:
stereo miniplug cable (male to male) - for going from Switch to portable speakers or anything with a line-in
miniplug couplers - handy if you need to plug the above into another male cable
miniplug to RCA adapter cable - for going from the Switch to a stereo system or similar
&#x200B;
&#x200B;
What kind if switch are you looking at? Buy something like this https://www.amazon.com/Bi-direction-Manual-Switch-Passthrough-Supports-DotStone/dp/B01L8LLP2G/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499090621&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=hdmi+switch
Someone can probably chime in with a better answer, but I'm in the same situation (2 computers, one main monitor). As far as hardware, pick up a simple switch from Amazon/ebay for about 10 bucks. The link is for one on Amazon for HDMI. If they are both DVI or VGA, you could probably find one on ebay for 3-5 bucks. They're called 'KVM switches', I believe.
Otherwise, what I am doing now is, I have my main PC attached to my monitor. On both computers I have TeamViewer installed (but you could use any 'remote desktop" software). Then you login using a generated ID and the monitorless-computer screen is sent to and mirrored/displayed on your main computer monitor.
Keep in mind, using a software solution instead of a hardware solution will cost memory resources.
EDIT: Now that I think about it, "Plex/Sonarr/Radarr/torrent downloader" probably all have a web interface. For example on any computer on your network go to
Then you might very rarely have to actually use a monitor with the server. You might want to login to your router and give your server a static local IP. Otherwise to find it on the server, open terminal and type: 'ifconfig -a' or if that doesn't work, try 'ip addr'. show
https://www.amazon.com/Switcher-Bi-direction-Hub-HDCP-Passthrough-Supports-DotStone/dp/B01L8LLP2G/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521397665&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=HDMI+switch&amp;dpID=51NuwF1AMCL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
Looks like you don't have to plug it in with just two. HDCP is an encryption method. I have a switch that passes HDCP but only when external power is applied. Its was like 10 bucks extra for the plug. But the one I listed above claims to do HDCP pass through without the need of external power so It looks like your in luck on that end.
I would
The one's I had you could tell if the one in your room was set to listen to you because there was a button like "passive listening" or something. It would stay depressed while active, but pushing it again would pop it back out.
Damn I miss good physical buttons. I currently have an hdmi switcher that has an awesome super clicky button that has 2 physical states.
It is the best button I have used since 80s video players. Just fucking click it in and it feels so damn good. And then clicking another button and having the other one pop out. So satisfying. The absolute best though, was probably pressing down the tape on those top loading video players.
https://www.amazon.com/Bi-direction-Manual-Switch-Passthrough-Supports-DotStone/dp/B01L8LLP2G/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505795712&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=hdmi+switch
I had the same issue. Ended up buying this and it works perfectly. Doesn't mess with my TVs 4k resolution either.
Amazon UK
Amazon US
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L8LLP2G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I bought one of these and it works perfectly. No power supply needed, but you do have to push a button to switch :\
How exactly are you able to connect everything via hdmi? I have a triple monitor set up and that takes up all of my ports. I bought this the other day and just hooked it up. It will not work with the headset but works fine when switching to the monitor.
Also, im quite envious of the large table that accompanies such a massive set-up.
This is the one i got I have one going to my 1080 P TV and one going to my 4k PC monitor. The source is a Ps4 Pro. Works great. the only thing you need to check is your cables. make sure they support 4k properly. I have longer HDMIs that say they support 4k but they didnt.
Is this ok? About half the cost. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01L8LLP2G/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1506801889&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=hdmi+y+cable&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51zcAC0JEoL&amp;ref=plSrch
Yes pretty much. If you want a monitor to share the PC and Xbox output, the you need a HDMI switch that supports 2 or more input and outputs to 1.
Just found this on amazon, this might do the job for you
HDMI Switcher 2 Ports Bi-direction Manual Switch 2 x 1/1 x 2 HDMI Hub-HDCP Passthrough-Supports Ultra HD 4K 3D 1080P By DotStone
It has good reviews too
I bought a simple low-profile HDMI switch from amazon and have it mounted on the side (hidden). Very small and needs no external power (link below). I'm using an amazon with Alexa fire stick for the streaming input, which is what I would recommend.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L8LLP2G
HDMI Switch,GANA 3 Port 4K HDMI Switch 3x1 Switch Splitter with Pigtail Cable Supports Full HD 4K 1080P 3D Player https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VX1PKQ7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_E5JHAbJ5692M1
This won’t work right? If it’s hdmi,
If it’s hdmi do I even need optical for soundbar. How would atmos work with a splitter?
I just bought this because of my situation as shown in my reply to the other user in this thread. I heard it works well for gaming, and it has 3 slots, don’t know too much else though.
This is what I use for my Xbox/PC/Laptop. Can be a little finnicky sometimes but for the price it works pretty damn well :)
HDMI Switch,GANA 3 Port 4K HDMI Switch 3x1 Switch Splitter with Pigtail Cable Supports Full HD 4K 1080P 3D Player https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VX1PKQ7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0HDFDbR79D3RS
I used this one when I was using PC and Switch with HDMI with only one HDMI port, and it worked well for me.
However, just because it worked for me doesn't mean you shouldn't look further. Browse some HDMI switches and see if you see one you like more, or if you want to try a different solution. Good luck!
HDMI Switch,GANA 3 Port 4K HDMI Switch 3x1 Switch Splitter with Pigtail Cable Supports Full HD 4K 1080P 3D Player https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VX1PKQ7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_X9TLBbDR2Q0KD
https://www.amazon.com/Switch-GANA-Splitter-Pigtail-Supports/dp/B06VX1PKQ7
I want it so that I am able to switch the output of an HDMI by the click of a button.
https://www.amazon.com/Switch-GANA-Splitter-Pigtail-Supports/dp/B06VX1PKQ7
Kind of like this but with 3 out instead of 3 in.
I bought these and they work well:
Splitter:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DQBY5TX/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1
Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06VX1PKQ7/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VX1PKQ7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_13F1BbTPSWVXA
This one is rated to support 4K devices and the reviews seem to be good.
I use this one from Amazon. Been about two years and no issues. Only 3 inputs but that was good enough for me. Not remote controlled but I'm a cheap ass and only tend to switch inputs before using a device so I'm already up to select an input.
This could be something you're looking for!
I had the same problem as you with the HDMI ports. I use this thing for all of my nintendo systems. https://www.amazon.com/Switch-GANA-Splitter-Pigtail-Supports/dp/B06VX1PKQ7?crid=1EXWBJU6CWEGB&amp;keywords=hdmi+splitter&amp;qid=1537450057&amp;sprefix=hdmi+%2Caps%2C178&amp;sr=8-3&amp;ref=sr_1_3
I have it attached to the back of my TV. It auto uses port 1 (my Switch) but if I want to play the S/NES I have to tap the button to the other port.
I use something like this:
HDMI Switch,GANA 3 Port 4K HDMI Switch 3x1 Switch Splitter with Pigtail Cable Supports Full HD 4K 1080P 3D Player https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VX1PKQ7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_eJtNBbEC2SZCH
I only use it with my older consoles just Incase there is some graphics degradation but I haven’t noticed anything.
It autodetects which console is on and then uses it for the hdmi port.
Ah good point, forgot about the two HDMIs! I've scoured and they seem to be really hard to find on ITX* motherboards (mine is a high end ITX that cost about $120 mainly due to overclocking capability, on board wifi, etc and it only had one also) - though you can pick up a splitter for like $10 on Amazon if that helps? https://www.amazon.com/Switch-GANA-Splitter-Pigtail-Supports/dp/B06VX1PKQ7/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504964746&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=hdmi+splitter
Magic
Get one of these things. Takes a few more HDMI cables, but you don't have to switch in and out of your devices.
I have mine hooked up to this and it works just fine for me.
Then again, I wouldn't take anything Amazon 'support' says seriously. They have no clue what they're doing
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06VX1PKQ7/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1523573320&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=hdmi+splitter&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51lwkqsTIfL&amp;ref=plSrch
Just get a decent splitter.
1 cable plugs into the splitter and the other end of it goes into the tv. The ports on the splitter just need to be toggled.
Hello
I wanted to use an HDMI switch to connect my PC, Switch and PS4 to my monitor for easy changing back and forth. I bought one but everytime I switch from my PC to a console, everything from the first monitor(discord, firefox etc) gets pushed to my second monitor. Is there a way to get around this so my monitors stay as they are when I switch away from the PC(even if it means buying a different switch)?
This is the switch I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06VX1PKQ7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Yeah, I suppose a little rig info would have helped. I have a
Samsung js7000 suhd tv with one UHD port.
>PS4 pro > single Ibis input
>Ibis output 1 > second switch(to TV)
>Ibis output 2 > PSVR "TO PS4" hdmi port on processor unit.
>Processor unit to second switch(TV)
These and these are the cables I've tried in various combinations with the PS4 pro hdmi that came with the system.
Like I said, all of the hdmi cables from the ps4 to tv support RGB and HDR.
HDR is not supported on either channel of the Ibis switch on a tv that is HDR capable. Both channels on the switch shows that HDR is not supported and can not work due to the vr processor, which leads me to believe that the only signal being picked up is the vr processor, and not that of the ps4 pro.
No that adapter wont work. this is what you need and it costs almost as much as a low end monitor.
https://www.amazon.com/SIIG-HDMI-DisplayPort-Converter-60Hz/dp/B07C39QBSF/
Check that the Samsung actually supports 4K, see resolution timings in the manual 3840x2160@60Hz over HDMI.
Sony don't go out of their way to test PC monitors for compatibility (HDMI is not a 100% bulletproof standard) in which case something like a 4K HDMI switch could act as a buffer between the console and monitor hopefully resolving the issue as the switch pretends to be a TV to the console and a device to the display.
https://www.amazon.com/Awakelion-Premium-Quality-Switcher-Support/dp/B06WV5YJ6H/
I love monoprice, but I went ahead and bought this one:
4K@60Hz HDMI Switch 5x1 Awakelion Premium Quality 5 in 1 Out Switcher with IR Remote Support,HDCP 2.2,UHD,HDR,Full HD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WV5YJ6H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_yJPSBbKNCCHEZ
Thanks for your help.
Not a splitter, you need an HDMI switch, like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WV5YJ6H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_eoG-Bb5XKDHTP
It’s this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WV5YJ6H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Uv8YCb8GNRK40
HDMI 2.0 Switch 5x1 Awakelion Premium Quality 4K x 2K/60Hz 5 In 1 Out HDMI Switcher with IR Wireless Remote, HDMI 2.0 & AC Power adapter- Supports HDCP2.2 HDR 3D, 1080p. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WV5YJ6H?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
This is the one I purchased. It is HDMI 2.0 so it should support HDR no issues. I used it with my non-hdr tv but didn’t need it with my new set that has HDR.
This is the one I picked up recently. It supports 4k and HDR. I had an older one I got from radioshack years ago but replaced it with this one for the newer features. I haven't had any problems with it so far.
This one works for me. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WV5YJ6H
I just now setup my UN40MU7000 with and HDMI switch with an Xbox One X, and Sony UBP-X800 UHD Blu-ray player and both work perfectly.
All the X1X 4k boxes are ticked, and the Sony plays full UHD w/HDR, and Dolby Atmos sound.
Switches smoothly between inputs while both devices are active.
I am using this switch: [Awakelion Premium Quality 4K x 2K/60Hz HDMI Switcher] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WV5YJ6H/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) and these cables: SecurOMax HDMI Cable 3ft - HDMI 2.0
4K @ 60Hz
I’m running this with a One X & PS4 Pro on a 4K HDR display. Works great. Solid metal construction. It is $50, but it’s been worth it
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06WV5YJ6H/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
So I had my NES Classic working fine through an old HDMI Switch (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049SCB2Y/), but I am in the process of upgrading to 4K and got a new 4K switch (and receiver) (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WV5YJ6H).
Everything works in the new 4K Switch - except the NES Classic. I get audio but no video. Hell, even my RetroPie works (Yeah I have a RetroPie and an NES Classic). It's so weird. Ah well,I can just hook it directly to my TV I guess. Still weird.
This one looks like it has everything you need: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06WV5YJ6H/ref=psdcmw_172546_t2_B075YVP856
Ah, gotcha. Makes sense. I'd do something like this, that way you could fully control the input.
As long as you only want to output to one set of speakers/headphones at a time, this switch should be pretty close to what you're looking for.
You're probably not going to find a USB input, 3.5mm output, and RCA output on a cheap device. If you NEED those features, you're going to probably need to buy some sort of mixer. My suggestion (if you can) is to take the 3.5mm out of your PC, and then buy a RCA to 3.5mm adapter for the amplifier.
If you're using a USB dac with the amp, you can switch back and forth using the sound devices list in Windows.
https://www.tenforums.com/attachments/tutorials/172430d1515874257-change-default-audio-playback-device-windows-10-a-audio_playback_device_sound-2.jpg
If you're using the amp from the output of your motherboard/sound card, you may want to try a physical switch/splitter to go back and forth between amp and speakers. https://www.amazon.com/STEREO-Manual-Speaker-selector-available/dp/B073GWCRP3/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=3.5mm+switch&amp;qid=1566144603&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3
how about this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073GWCRP3/ref=cm\_sw\_em\_r\_mt\_dp\_U\_m3kxDbMNMKX1D
I think this thing this would do what you're looking to do.
This or a similar device should do the trick:
https://www.amazon.com/STEREO-Manual-Speaker-selector-available/dp/B073GWCRP3
If you used a receiver it’s internal switching would fix the problem for sure. But I see you want a quick fix for a bad (but simple) wiring job. Use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/STEREO-Manual-Speaker-selector-available/dp/B073GWCRP3
https://www.amazon.com/STEREO-Manual-Speaker-selector-available/dp/B073GWCRP3
Though, just buying an external sound card would be less expensive, once you account for cables and everything if you don't mind doing sound in software.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_3iXDDbNQ02PF7
Something like a switch box like this?
Thank you very much!
Your explanation makes total sense: (in lay terms) half the signal is just being sent into the wrong wire and not making it to the sound system.
Mixers also seem to be the tool for the job if you need to be able to target multiple devices at the same time - and not even that expensive for how advanced they look.
But as you suspected, this would actually be pretty much overkill: I don't ever need audio from the Chromecast Audio and TV at the same time. I am also fine with having to walk over and hit a switch to change the input from one to the other.
Quick search later I found https://www.amazon.com/STEREO-Manual-Speaker-selector-available/dp/B073GWCRP3, but this is big for the job. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014IVBD7A/ and https://www.amazon.com/4minds-Splitter-selector-Computer-Headphones/dp/B0776JX4JQ are smaller but still a bit pricey.
Any suggestion for small, simple and cheap-ish splitters that would match my use case?
(I will probably need 2 new male to male 3.5mm plug cables to connect my devices to the switcher, I guess?)
I'm having a hard time following your situation since it looks like you're mixing up input/output and possibly describing the wrong direction of signal conversion. It sounds like maybe what you want is to use analog 3.5mm speakers with your PC and the PS4. The PS4 doesn't have analog 3.5mm output, but does have optical audio so you want an optical audio to analog 3.5mm converter. Did I get that right?
Does your PC have optical or coaxial audio output as well? If it does, then you could get a digital audio switch with analog 3.5mm output. Both the PC and PS4 would use optical/coaxial audio output which the switch converts to 3.5mm audio for the speaker. Here's an example of such a switch:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012BCF450/
If your PC only has analog 3.5mm output, then you would want to get an optical to 3.5mm converter and a 3.5mm switch.
Here's an example of an optical to analog 3.5mm converter:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0/
Here's an example of a 3.5mm switch:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073GWCRP3/
If both your PC and PS4 are connected to the same display and you are using HDMI for both, then you could get an HDMI switch with 3.5mm output. Here's an example of that kind of switch:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G46V5N4/
I have't used any of the products that I've linked to so those links are not recommendations. They could be complete junk for all I know. I've only provided those links as references for what kind of device you should look for in your research.
Also, when looking for converters and switches you need to be really careful about which direction the signal is going. The switches/converters are typically not bi-directional which means they only work one way. An optical to analog 3.5mm converter will not work as a 3.5mm to optical converter. You need to be aware of which is input and which is output.
Here is an Aux switch https://www.amazon.com/STEREO-Manual-Speaker-selector-available/dp/B073GWCRP3/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1538870501&sr=8-2&keywords=Aux+switch
So something like this?
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01LPT8KQA/
Or this, with the appropriate RCA to 1/8" adapters?
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00102ZN40/
Note: I've never used or heard of the first link, but trust the manufacturer of the second link.
Or if you're willing to push a button to switch between the two... Again, I've not used this product:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B073GWCRP3/
Edit: also this little guy from Rolls
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/597819-REG
Maybe something like this would "fix" this problem: https://www.amazon.com/STEREO-Manual-Speaker-selector-available/dp/B073GWCRP3
edit: this is just an example, so you know what i mean. I don't have any experience with this product.
https://www.dx.com/p/3-5mm-mp3-switch-audio-headphone-output-switcher-black-4-in-4-out-383663
https://www.amazon.com/STEREO-Manual-Speaker-selector-available/dp/B073GWCRP3
I have used external analogue switch like those.
Make sure the DVI splitter will not break HDCP unless you don't plan on playing any DRM-protected audio/video at all (Netflix, Blu-ray, etc).
The solutions in my comment still apply but you could also use something like this https://www.amazon.com/STEREO-Manual-Speaker-selector-available/dp/B073GWCRP3
EDIT: wait a sec. If you're planning on splitting one output from your GPU to your 2 monitors and expect both displays to be recognized independently by your computer, it DOES NOT work that way.
I was thinking something along the lines of this:
http://prntscr.com/pj8vid
Where the hub for USB/Ethernet/Power/audio? would be: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Universal-Monitor-Docking-Station/dp/B073787QMY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=amazon+basics+dock&amp;qid=1571082698&amp;s=electronics&amp;sr=1-3
This HDMI to USB-C adapter: https://www.amazon.com/Sonnet-Thunderbolt-Dual-Adapter-TB3-DHDMI/dp/B07141QFRG
or https://www.amazon.com/UPTab-2-Ports-Adapter-Monitor-Splitter/dp/B07566J4G4
Couple USB Switches: https://www.amazon.com/Selector-ULBRE-Peripheral-Switcher-Keyboard/dp/B07DKD7JHG/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=usb+3.0+kvm+switch&amp;qid=1571077114&amp;sr=8-4
This aux switch?: https://www.amazon.com/STEREO-Manual-Speaker-selector-available/dp/B073GWCRP3/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=audio+jack+splitter+switch&amp;qid=1571083418&amp;sr=8-4
A simple audio switch, like this.
https://www.amazon.com/STEREO-Manual-Speaker-selector-available/dp/B073GWCRP3/
if your only connecting two devices, i recently seen this: https://www.amazon.com/STEREO-Manual-Speaker-selector-available/dp/B073GWCRP3 this thing can combine audio sources and push them to it's in/out port. it can also be used as a switch.
you'd then need an toshlink to trs converter and rca to 3.5mm to plug into that and have it push audio out to your soundbar. https://www.amazon.com/Easyday-Digital-Optical-Converter-Internet/dp/B00UOM6JQS/
&#x200B;
it's all 3.5mm so if you get any noise, get some cheap ground loop isolators as well and connect them to all the in's and outs.
This was the first one that appeared on search: https://www.amazon.com/STEREO-Manual-Speaker-selector-available/dp/B073GWCRP3
Not sure if that's something like what you mean.
This audio selector should do it. If you have to step down to 3.5mm there are adapters for that.
cheers
https://www.amazon.com/STEREO-Manual-Speaker-selector-available/dp/B073GWCRP3/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1526917149&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=audio+selector
Looking to purchase the PB42X speakers. I'm getting the TRS to RCA cable as well.
&#x200B;
The part i need advice on is if https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073GWCRP3/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AW892P991ZFI8&psc=1 is going to affect the sound quality in any appreciable way? I want two of them one to switch at my PC between headphones and the speakers, and one at my speakers to switch between the PC input and a turntable input.
Just an audio switch connect it to the headphone jack on the monitor as well as your speakers.
I have my firestick connected to my monitor but the audio comes out through the speakers/subwoofer
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073GWCRP3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
is your HDMI reference just an example or is that what you have?
you just need a "HDMI switcher with audio extractor".
for example :
https://www.amazon.com/Proster-Extractor-Switcher-Converter-Include/dp/B073TTS9QG/
https://www.amazon.com/avedio-links-Switcher-Extractor-HDMI2-0b/dp/B07T2WSY3D/
you'll need to use the switcher remote when you change sources, but won't have to change anything on the TV to change input devices. audio will track with whatever the HDMI source is.
I have a similar problem to yours but instead of a PS4, it's a PC. Basically, I have 2 monitors and I like to switch one monitor from PC to switch and viceversa and my monitors only have DVI and VGA ports. This obviously sucks because I can't switch the monitor output from DVI to HDMI which would have helped a lot instead of the setup i got. I do however got a speaker set that does allow for multiple inputs, so that will work great with my switch and PC in theory. I have a discrete audio card, you should be fine unless you want to route the sound from the PS4 using TOSLINK (I do believe it has one).
So, all I can tell you from my experience... before you buy something like this, is that you do check that the device will let you add an HDMI to DVI converter to the end. In my case (the one I linked) it did not work. I wouldn't get a signal working out with the adapter... shocking i know, because it even says that it won't work with a passive HDMI to DVI adapter on the amazon listing. Anyway, I kind of lucked out because I had bought a capture card in the past and all I have to do is route it to my capture card and use the passthrough function of it (which essentially rebuilds the HDMI stream? I have no idea). I can then use my HDMI-DVI adapter and it works perfectly. The caveat though is that my PC has to be on while I'm playing. Which isn't much a deal because I actually use both most of the time.
But anyway, you obviously shouldn't be buying a capture card for this (unless that's what you want, then the above setup should work fine?), if you do end up buying something like I linked (2+ hdmi switchs with audio extractors) and it doesn't let you use the adapter for HDMI to DVI for your monitor then you can probably get something like this. I haven't test it out so I can't tell if it'll work but it should be doing the same that my capture card is doing. Obviously, it would be best if you could get a 2+ hdmi switch to DVI with audio extractor but there's none i could find.
If you do end up with a setup similar to mine, know this:
And at last, with the amount of money you'll spend on a speaker setup, hdmi cables, passive adapters and the HDMI shenanigans you can probably just buy a 30" inch smart tv for like $100 bucks. Hell, I'm sure you could find old as hell gigantic hdmi tvs for $100 or less. My step dad couldn't get rid of his old as hell 55" tv and had to actually pay money to get rid of it.
There are switches like this which have analog outputs.
How is your monitor configured where you need RCA input? I was thinking you would have your devices connected to the switch and then the digital audio from the HDMI sources would be output via analog audio to some speakers or something.
My initial thought was "no way in hell that would work." I happened to have a pair of Logitech USB speakers sitting here and gave it a try, and as I suspected it didn't work. Even IF it has drivers for a USB audio device there's no easy way to tell it to use the USB device instead of the HDMI; you'd have to hack it to mod it's boot options somehow.
What you can do is get a USB Audio Extractor, something like this one which has 3 HDMI inputs, one output, and a stereo & toslink audio output. This will run you about $25 but allow you to hook up a pair of speakers (or a Receiver via TOSLink). Now, I will warn you, I had a cheap one like this and had an issue where my PC wouldn't recognize the monitor as an audio device, even with the switch/extractor in the middle, so it wouldn't play audio even when my standalone blu-ray player would, so this may not work for you, in which case you should be ready and willing to return it.
Grab a HDMI extractor.
I just got a this and it works great (was recommended here on reddit): Proster 3x1 HDMI Switch with... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073TTS9QG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Maybe just get an HDMI switch that has audio out (analog or digital) Example. Then plug in an Nvidia Shield for Netflix, Prime, Chromecast, NAS support on HDMI 1, then leave the Switch dock plugged into HDMI 2. Easy peasy.
Proster 3x1 HDMI Switch with... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073TTS9QG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I'm trying to set up a secondary listening area that doubles as a 2.1 "home theater". It's primary function is for 2 channel audio, about 50/50 vinyl/digital (via Roon over Chromecast). Secondary is for streaming video via Chromecast.
Basically I'm not interested in the features an AVR comes with, except HDMI switching and audio processing. I just need the HDMI audio extracted to a coax, optical, or USB out to go to my Emotiva DAC.
Is there any reason not to just find a budget HDMI switch and audio extractor like this? https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B073TTS9QG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Iv7RBbXAMQTD0
Can I expect bit perfect audio to the DAC this way?
Since your TV has no audio outputs, your only option is to pull the audio from the sources you are plugging in to the TV. If you are only using HDMI inputs, you can get a HDMI switch with audio output. Something like this will get you audio out and then you'd also need something like this to transmit the audio over bluetooth.
Well, if you're willing to buy something, you could get an HDMI audio extractor which will separate your audio source so you can plug in your headset.
https://www.amazon.com/Proster-Extractor-Switcher-Converter-Include/dp/B073TTS9QG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542565424&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=hdmi+audio+splitter
I use this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Proster-Extractor-Switcher-Converter-Include/dp/B073TTS9QG/
Have my PS4, Xbox One, and Switch into it so I can just use my one headset without unplugging and plugging it into another console. Switches automatically to whatever console you turn on. USB powered, so can be ran using whatever USB wall plug or console USB you want.
You would be looking at something like that:
https://www.amazon.com/Proster-Extractor-Switcher-Converter-Include/dp/B073TTS9QG/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=HDMI+to+HDMI+%2B+Audio+Extractor&qid=1570697579&sr=8-3
3 HDMI inputs from your consoles, 1 HDMI to your TV, 1 optical to your soundsystem
Not personally tested, but I was looking for a similar solution a little while ago
Thanks mate. Probably will just use this one: https://www.amazon.com.au/Proster-Extractor-Switcher-Converter-Include/dp/B073TTS9QG
I'm really liking that it has usb power. Most likely my computer will be on anyway, so my monitor will be able to power something via usb. It also has optical out, which means I can save my analogue in on the amp for something later down the track!
Doesn't have 4k or 1440p at 60Hz though...
Wouldnt this work: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B073TTS9QG/ref=crt_ewc_img_srh_1?ie=UTF8&smid=A1L1WUWYKZGTBQ&th=1
Oh I misunderstood. You just need an HDMI Switch
You'll need three HDMI cables for that. One for each PC and one from the switch to the monitor.
>an use it to extend my desktop or l
So this thing
https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Switch-4K-Splitter-Bi-Directional/dp/B079JQ9XXV/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=HDMI+switch&qid=1566783813&s=gateway&sr=8-3
you know how 3d is extra & extra makes something fall asleep., well then from there the casing should dictate the static & you can compensate - but the compensation & the shape again dictates the final.
with that said, i chose this one: https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Switch-4K-Splitter-Bi-Directional/dp/B079JQ9XXV/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1M8NCIJP3E6P6&keywords=hdmi+splitter+2+inputs+1+output&qid=1564979605&s=gateway&sprefix=hdmi+splitter%2Caps%2C190&sr=8-3
something like this would work: HDMI Switch 4K HDMI Splitter-Techole Aluminum Bi-Directional HDMI Switcher 2 Input 1 Output, HDMI Switch Splitter 2 x 1/1 x 2. No External Power Required, Supports 4K 3D HD 1080P for Xbox PS4 Roku HDTV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JQ9XXV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MHCnDbMBSN4EF
Hey hey, slow your horses. I never wrote quality. Just no usb needed.
But there you go, 10 bucks, over 3k reviews and 4.5 starts. I’d buy that sucker if I needed one.
https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Switch-4K-Splitter-Bi-Directional/dp/B079JQ9XXV/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1W4WGVXH99A42&amp;keywords=hdmi+switch&amp;qid=1563681258&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=Hdmi%2Caps%2C215&amp;sr=8-3
Well, you get a HDMI 2 in 1 out splitter. It’s probably for $10
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JQ9XXV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_mf0JDb6QY25J5
You can try one of those HDMI switches.
something like this: https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Switch-4K-Splitter-Bi-Directional/dp/B079JQ9XXV/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=HDMI+switch&qid=1568684029&sr=8-3
If by virtual monitor you mean you want to display the Switch gameplay on your PC desktop using the same monitor, you would need something like one of the Elgato capture cards to receive and display the image. This tends to introduce a good deal of latency, however, as it takes a few milliseconds for the device to receive the signal and pass it to your PC for display. They also aren't cheap.
Alternatively you could get a cheap HDMI switcher. Plug both your PC and your Switch into the switcher, plug the one HDMI output into your monitor, and now you only have to push a button to swap between them instead of going through your monitor's settings.
First, questions.
Now, a suggestion.
Anyway, some options.
^(Notes)
^(- None of these options should introduce lag, but if you get a splitter or switch box, make sure they're noted with low-latency and check the reviews.)
^(- You could stream the game to your TV with something like the Steam Link... but your TV is in the same room as the PC-- hell from the sounds of it, it's within the same arm's reach as the TV. Streaming it is alright if the system and the TV were across the house, but its a needlessly complicated and clunky idea in this situation.)
^(- If you do use a hardware solution, keep in mind that the small consumer boxes can only use cables of a reasonable length. Generally speaking, you shouldn't use a cable longer than 9ft from the box to your TV, or the wire won't carry the signal to the display. Longer than that, you'll probably need a) ^(signal repeater)^(.)
If you have any questions, let me know. I hope this helps you find your answer.
EDIT: More info.
Nope. Unfortunately the monitor's menu is "isolated" and can not be controlled with anything but the buttons. If you want an easier solution, you could get an HDMI switch, like this one
Just need an HDMI switcher. Your inputs would be your game pc and the PS4 pro. The output goes to your elgato, with the passthrough going to your monitor.
Since you're only talking about 2 inputs, you can go as simple as this thing. There's a whole sea of options though, so depending on what you want, you can have switchers with more inputs, multiple outputs (in case you want to do away with the need to use the elgato's passthrough to send to the monitor), and even optical/analog audio extraction.
This is what we use for our living room setup (6-input, 2-output, optical and analog audio extraction that's selectable between A/B outs). Obviously overkill for your needs, but this is just an example of what's out there, and it's pretty reasonably priced.
Splitter:
HDMI Switch 4K HDMI Splitter - Techole Aluminum Bi-Directional HDMI Switcher 1 In 2 Out or 2 Input 1 Output, No External Power Required, Supports 4K 3D HD 1080P for Xbox PS4 Roku Blu-Ray player HDTV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JQ9XXV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_09JUBb0YZQ3G7
Hi. Will this be a good HDMI splitter to strip the HDCP signals with a PS4, so I can make animated gifs of Blue Ray discs with? https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Switch-4K-Splitter-Bi-Directional/dp/B079JQ9XXV/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=hdmi+splitter&qid=1557621608&s=gateway&sr=8-3
It does say PS4 / Xbox on it already, but I really want to make sure this doesn't get screwed up so I wanted to run it by you first to make sure, you being more knowledgeable than me about this subject. Thank you very much.
I think you could use a HDMI switch.
HDMI Switch 4K HDMI Splitter-Techole Aluminum Bi-Directional HDMI Switcher 2 Input 1 Output, HDMI Switch Splitter 2 x 1/1 x 2. No External Power Required, Supports 4K 3D HD 1080P for Xbox PS4 Roku HDTV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JQ9XXV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4kE3Cb3ZCT5AR
I'd research it a bit more to make sure it would work right.
Is this what you're looking for?
OP this is a better option. You dont need a full KVM unless you want to use the full size keyboard and mouse with the laptop as well. Also if you want to be able to switch the input for your displays while both devices are plugged in, there are HDMI switches with that functionality included. I'll try to find the one I got and link it here.
Here you go
I have been using this for about a year and have had no problems so far:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JQ9XXV/ref=cm\_sw\_em\_r\_mt\_dp\_U\_hm-RDbWCHQ9ZE
DVI-HDMI cables don't work that way. They are monodirectional. DVI is not capable of interpreting the HDMI input. That cable would only work the other way around, from DVI to HDMI. The HDMI can interpret and process the DVI signal. If your monitor only has the one HDMI port, you may need to look into getting an HDMI switch.
As a side note: It used to be that if your DVI (dual link DVI-D only) port on your video card was any other colour than white, it not only outputs the DVI signal but also the complete HDMI signal so if the device you were connecting to had speakers, you could also get audio from DVI port as long as you were using a dual link DVI-D to HDMI cable. I think now most video cards also have audio cards built in and the colour of the DVI port no longer matters since I haven't seen a white DVI port in a long time and dual link DVI-D is the is the only DVI still used.
Couple of questions, Does your keyboard have a bluetooth switcher build in? the biggest issue would be the mouse. If you are okay with switching your peripherals when you with OS then all you really need is a switch. I do it with my gaming PC and my MacBook, but I use the input switch on my monitor.
If you want a physical button:
https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Switch-4K-Splitter-Bi-Directional/dp/B079JQ9XXV/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2FE4FZP2XI49L&amp;keywords=hdmi+switch+2+input+1+output&amp;qid=1573494794&amp;s=electronics&amp;sprefix=hdmi+switch+2+in%2Celectronics%2C159&amp;sr=1-1
^^^This is a nice elegant switch you could stick under your desk and push to switch.
If you want a keyboard that switches I personally like Logitech stuff and I am not sure about a mouse that switches. Hope this helps let me know id you have any more questions!
HDMI Switch 4K HDMI Splitter -... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JQ9XXV?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Switch-4K-Splitter-Bi-Directional/dp/B079JQ9XXV
I have a splitter for my Xbox One X and 4K output does pass through the splitter, but HDR is inconsistent.
&#x200B;
I used this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079JQ9XXV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I use this splitter. The 1 port side is to my GPU, and it connects to my monitor and an Oculus Rift. The button lets me toggle which screen is active.
Sometimes I have to unplug the GPU side (at the switch) and plug it back in to force it to refresh, but that's the only issue. It works for letting me switch between monitor and headset without needing to reach back behind the case.
I bought this cheap one a few months ago to switch between a PC and Nintendo Switch. Works great. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079JQ9XXV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I do this as well and am currently using this one. 2 months in and no issues
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B079JQ9XXV?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title
Edit: monitor side is using a 12ft hdmi cord so no issue there
I bought this and it works flawlessly.
How about an a/v switcher?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0032ANC8M/ref=cm_sw_su_dp
this
Just use the audio part of it, and hook the inputs/outputs in reverse. This means that you want the amps to be on the inputs of the device (say 1 and 2), and the DAC on the output.
These aren't polarized and allow flow in both directions, so instead of switching source device (DAC) you're switching the output device.
Here is the switcher that I use. My tv has s video input so it works great because I can use systems that output s video or composite with this one. Here is an s video cable that would work for both your SNES and your N64. Here is a composite cable that would work with your model 1 Sega Genesis, and Here would be am example of composite cables that would work with you NES.
As for the surge protector, here is the one I use and I really like it because it can hold a lot of the big power bricks that these older consoles like to use. Anyway hope that helped point you in the right direction. Of course it is a little bit of an investment, but overall I bet you will be much happier with a set up like this. I know personally I could never go back to constantly physically switching consoles out when I want to play them, this makes it so much easier to enjoy all my consoles with minimal effort. Good luck on your set up!
https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-28750-Composite-Selector/dp/B0032ANC8M?ie=UTF8&amp;keywords=s%20video%20switch&amp;qid=1463513498&amp;ref_=sr_1_1&amp;sr=8-1
There's soneone giving a review that says you need remove two resistors and two capacitors. I did it (no soldering required) you just clip them off an after that the image looks really good.
There's a light shadow effect that never bothered me but check screenshots first
http://www.amazon.com/Cables-Go-28750-Composite-Selector/dp/B0032ANC8M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1331157098&amp;sr=8-1
I have two of these, IMO they work quite well. Don't go too cheap, otherwise you'll just get a useless paperweight.
This is definitely possible, but depends on your current setup. If you are using RCA cables for your audio signal, a simple box like this should do fine. That box also handles video, but won't work for newer cables such as HDMI.
Once you get into digital audio and video things get more complicated, but it sounds like that shouldn't be an issue for you.
If you post exactly what audio and video equipment you have, I can be more specific.
I can’t seem to find one on Amazon at the moment, but back in the day I bought a 4 input AV (you know, the yellow and red/white RCA connections) switcher that had an IR remote control, with this I was able to automatically switch it with a Logitech Harmony remote. By the end, I was using it just to switch audio into my amplifier,
Anyway fast forward to today with home automation. If I was in your shoes I’d get that exact same switch and use a Broadlink RM Pro with Home Assistant to Control the input source selection via IR commands sent from Home Assistant.
There was another passive switch I had before the one with the IR Control (I got tired of getting up and changing it) it was literally passive and the press of one of the 4 buttons would connect the RCA connections to the output connection terminals. Maybe a switch like this could be taken apart and connected to a bunch of relays controlled via your Pi’s GPIO.
Edit: here’s the passive switch that could be taken apart and wired to relays: C2G/Cables to Go 4x2 S-Video + Composite Video + Stereo Audio Selector Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0032ANC8M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vnWNBbSJWG6VM
For digital audio you can get devices like this to convert it to analog and then connect it to the passive switch: PROZOR Digital to Analog Converter DAC Digital SPDIF Toslink to Analog Stereo Audio L/R Converter Adapter with Optical Cable for PS3 Xbox HD DVD PS4 Home Cinema Systems AV Amps Apple TV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5pWNBbPM4GDN8
(This is what I did back in the day with the third generation Apple TV’s optical output)
You understand correctly. Something like the Cables to Go audio/video selector switch or Recton VS1002 A/V switcher would work well, but have a look at some other options as there may well be something a little more compact or that looks better. Also search for "a/b switch". You could even use this tiny Sescom A/B switch.
Non-mobile: this
^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?
I'm guessing something like this would work
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0032ANC8M?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
I don't know any reciever that does apt-x. This is probably the cheapest receiver with preouts and a zone 2. It'll do Zone 2 pre amplifier or at amplifier level, depending on what you need and still let you do 7.1. Run the surround or surround back preouts to something like this, hook up the output from your computer and input to your computer speakers here as well. Sorry it's not cheaper, but preouts aren't cheap. If you have passive speakers (ones with a separate amp), you can make it work with any surround receiver with a different switch
https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-301BN-Premium-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B0049S6ZUS/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484765909&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=hdmi+switch i use this one
You cannot create an HDMI input on your computer without allot of expense and extra processing power - there is also the issue of HDMI protection (HDCP) which will cause some shows/movies not to play at all.
I would suggest an HDMI switch like this: http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-301BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049S6ZUS
...so you can select between your computer and your TV tuner box as you wish.
I've personally used this one for my PS4, a laptop, and a bluray player. https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-301BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049S6ZUS
But if you have money to blow you should definitely just get a $250 receiver.
Here's what I use to switch between my Apple TV and laptop on my projector: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049S6ZUS/
It has a remote.
Edit: Here's the 4k version: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YNM23S8
Kinivo 301BN Premium 3 port High speed HDMI switch with IR wireless remote and AC Power adapter - supports 3D, 1080p by Kinivo http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049S6ZUS/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_djpntb04TG6BP
you need a switch for multiple devices into the xbox hdmi input, not a splitter lol.
http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-301BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049S6ZUS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1395251978&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=kinivo+hdmi+switch
A Denon from last year’s models like the S720W could be had for around that much based on a quick Google search (I converted £200 to ~$270). Since you said “possibly 7.1,” I’m a bit confused. Do you own speakers yet or not? If you don’t, then something like this could tide you over until you buy speakers, and the remainder of your budget can go to a receiver.
Buy yourself Smash for 3DS!! It comes out on Friday (the day the contest ends! IT'S A SIGN!!) and it is going to be fantastic (Source: I've played the demo lots). Smash is addicting fun, and it lets you battle online, so you could even battle against your fellow RAOAers that get it! It's going to keep you entertained for a while, so what's to lost? Treat yourself and get it!
As for me, I would LOVE to receive this HDMI 3-port switch device. I just found out these things exist, and this would make my life insanely easier. I don't have enough HDMI ports on my TV, so I always have to flip it around, unplug, and replug to get things to work. This eliminates that! So, you're buying something that will get constant use and make my life a bit easier! :)
Thanks for the contest! This is awesome of you :) Batman Suit.
Do you think this HDMI spliter would work?
http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-301BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049S6ZUS
A friend of mine has it, I was gonna borrow it but he's already got it setup.
I use this switch for my Switch and SNES Classic and have had no problems at all the few months I've had it.
http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-301BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049S6ZUS/ref=sr_1_6?s=audio-video-accessories&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1416414840&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=hdmi+splitter here ya go
You can use an HDMI Switcher and plug 3 devices into that, and then attach that to the HDMI Passthrough. You just use the remote that normally comes with whichever switcher you get to switch the devices on the unit itself.
Absolutely, here it is.
[The one I owned before getting a new TV with enough inputs](Kinivo 301BN Premium 3 Port High Speed HDMI Switch With IR Wireless Remote And AC Power Adapter - Supports 3D, 1080p https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049S6ZUS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_EUwMBbBHQ0BJQ)
I picked up this one a little while ago. Works great.
http://www.amazon.ca/Kinivo-301BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049S6ZUS
Here's a good, cheap switch that I like:
http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-301BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049S6ZUS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1419781384&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=kinivo+hdmi
I use it to switch between all modern game consoles that currently live in my PC setup. Has been working great, had it for about a year or so. I've had other cheap china switches and my PS3 simply wouldn't play nice with those.
Edit: Didn't see you needed two outputs. I've got my hooked up to a cheap powered HDMI splitter, so there's one solution.
I have no issues with my switch (I split a WiiU and the XBONE), but before I bought it I read a few reviews... and found that this one was specifically mentioned as being one of the few that worked completely fine with both PS4 and XBONE. Have had no issues at all with it.
Kinivo Switch: http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-301BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049S6ZUS
I've got this one from Kinivo and have had it for well over a year.. Works flawlessly and changes inputs automatically depending on what device you power on.
http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-301BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049S6ZUS/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1450803354&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=kinivo+hdmi+splitter
I have been using this switch for over a year with no problems although you'd have to find a different solution for your speakers:
http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-301BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049S6ZUS/ref=sr_1_6?s=audio-video-accessories&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1451028075&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=HDMI+switch
You don't want a splitter unless you want to have Destiny on both screens as the same time. If you want to choose which screen will display the image you need a switch/matrix that does 2in/1out or something like that. I've got a Rocketfish HDMI switch from Best Buy that I use and I haven't expereinced any lag that I'm aware of. But I'm using a pc monitor. Something like this should work for you.
What you need is a switcher, not a splitter.
There are different types, some need power, other not.
Review these 2
http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-301BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049S6ZUS/ref=sr_1_4?s=audio-video-accessories&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452943155&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=hdmi+switcher
http://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-HD1831-3-Port-Switch-Pigtail/dp/B008GVOVK0/ref=sr_1_5?s=audio-video-accessories&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452943155&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=hdmi+switcher
That's one possible setup. It depends on how often you use each of these. Your other option is to get an HDMI switcher
Given the price of a switcher, I'd say get one and do everything via HDMI
Agreed, but this one is rated higher with more reviews Link
This is what I have
I plug in my ps3 ps4 and wiiu into that. I can still capture on the wiiu, Have not tested on the ps4 but it should work the same.
I use this one.. It works great, and it switches automatically depending on what device you turn on.
First of all your link is to rental property in Coral Gables so you might wanna check on that ;-)
I'm using this HDMI switch:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049S6ZUS/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I have my Apple TV and my DirecTV box going into it then the output going to the XB1 and it works flawlessly. Zero problems, 100% satisfied.
Do you want an HDMI splitter or switch ? Because they're a bit different, anyways I use this HDMI switch and its perfect http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0049S6ZUS/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?qid=1457211463&amp;sr=8-6&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=kinivo&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31HQXq0wQML&amp;ref=plSrch
I dont have my PS4 connected yet. I want to use my PC Monitor as Display instead, but the monitor only has 1 HDMI Input port, which my PC is using. So i want to buy a HDMI Splitter , maybe this one. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0049S6ZUS/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1417056453&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=AC_SX200_QL40
So that I can have both my PC and my PS4 plugged to the same Monitor.
Will that work?
This is correct. You need a splitter that has power. I read multiple reviews and have discovered this.
i use this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049S6ZUS/
I used this one for my Wii U and PS4 and it worked fine.
Here's a 3-port option:
>Kinivo 301BN Premium 3 port High speed HDMI switch with IR wireless remote and AC Power adapter - supports 3D, 1080p
>Link: http://amzn.com/B0049S6ZUS
I have the 5-port version and it works perfectly. It auto-detects what is powered on most recently and switches to that input. If there is a problem, you can press a button on the switch or on the remote.
https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y
I have this one: link.
Works great with my harmony hub, after using it for a while and being impressed with it I even bought the 3 port version (also on amazon) for a different room.
From experience, cheaping out on any sort of video switch or splitter will introduce delay, buggy images and some even don't work at all. Most of the good ones will require power to function properly, so make sure you have an outlet nearby. This one appears to be pretty popular and it has lots of fancy features. There are cheaper ones, but make sure you buy one with lots of reviews.
A adapter, no, the TV will only recognize one input, it wouldn't know what to do with multiple sources in 1 input.
There are switches tho that actually act as a selector from multiple sources. Like this one.
That sounds like a convoluted set up.
I just have all of my systems plugged into one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1396289933&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=hdmi+switch
That is plugged into my TV, and the TV is plugged into the sound bar via optical audio.
I would say try taking your sound bar out of the equation for video as your first step for troubleshooting this issue.
so you want them all plugged into both monitors? or will the tv hold some and the monitor hold the others?
either way, an hdmi switch like this would hlep
Do you have a HDMI switch you could put between the WiiU and the TV (similar to this: LINK)? It may straighten out the communication between the WiiU and the TV. Otherwise, since no other device connected to this TV shows those symptoms, it looks like this particular TV just won't connect correctly to the WiiU. As I said before, I have seen where some TVs just won't connect to some devices.
I have used that one in the past. Although it's more expensive, I prefer this 5 port one (it comes with a remote too) https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467222331&amp;sr=1-8&amp;keywords=hdmi+switch There's also a cheaper 3 port one as well
Depending on the tv you might have hdmi output on that. You can connect it to the other tv. The only oher options is:
Inputs -> HDMI Switch -> to hdmi splitter -> two tv's.
This way you can switch inputs and still split the two screens. The easiest solutions would be to adjust his prescription or get him glasses.
There's no one device I can think of that would do that. What you could do is get a multi-port HDMI switch like this and use a splitter for the output. It would be outputting to both the TV and projector at the same time, but you could just have the device not currently in use turned off.
https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y
Either this or its 3-port little brother
Edit: Sorry, just re-read that you need an audio out.
I use his one. Kinivo 501BN Premium 5 port High speed HDMI switch with IR wireless remote and AC Power adapter - supports 3D, 1080p https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HXWhzb3BMSGVN
I use this for my AV solution. For HDMI OP uses two of these, I also have one of those and it works great.
Edit: The AV switch looks weird in the Amazon picture, but the actual unit is buttons on front, ports in back. The picture is of two of them stacked on top of each other.
The Chromecast is not connected to the TV directly. It's on a Kinivo switch. Chromecast disappears on my available devices once the TV is off. This is the Kinivo Switch I have https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487684527&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Kinivo+Switch
Guessing your monitor only has one HDMI port?
If so why not buy a HDMI switcher, something like this maybe?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1413084811&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=hdmi+switcher
http://www.amazon.co.uk/TeckNet%C2%AE-Port-Auto-Switch-Remote/dp/B005SP6ARO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1413084811&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=hdmi+switcher
I use this one with no noticeable lag: https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y
I have this HDMI switch with remote - my tv only has 2 HDMI plugs.
What you really want is this right here.
I use this one and have been pretty satisfied. My Fire Stick caused some conflict with the auto-switch function, so I had to plug that directly into the TV.
https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1538756714&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=kinivo+HDMI+5&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41ZRavbicFL&amp;ref=plSrch
I know it can be tempting, but you should never buy a console solely because of the hardware. Hardware is no good if it doesn't play the games you want to play. Crash Bandicoot: N-Sane Trilogy and the upcoming Final Fantasy 7 remake are both PS4 exclusives. And though nothing has been officially stated, many people assume a Spyro remaster is coming next, especially in the wake of Crash Bandicoot's critical reception and sales numbers.
The idea that PS5 will feature backwards compatibility is likewise only a rumor, however, it's backed by logical evidence. But it's worth keeping in mind that Sony has a business interest in NOT offering backwards compatibility, so that they can more easily sell Playstation Now subscriptions, classic digital titles (ala Nintendo's virtual console), and remastered classics. (In other words, just because they can, doesn't mean they will.) And if Sony does ultimately offer b/c with PS5 and copies Microsoft's approach to the tiniest detail, then the PS5 won't have b/c at launch but will have it patched in later, and even then only for the most popular titles. I still have my Xbox 360 hooked up because my Xbox One isn't a 100% replacement for it, and it probably never will be. So buying any console with backwards compatibility in mind is something of a crapshoot.
It might be worth mentioning that you do have options besides Playstation and Xbox. Nintendo Switch has been very popular since it launched in March, and remains perpetually sold out. To get one at this point in time, you'd either have to buy one from an eBay scalper or watch stock trackers carefully and be in the right place at the right moment. But it doesn't take advantage of 4K, and in what could be either a pro or a con depending on your mindset, offers less crossover with the catalog of games you already have access to on PC. However, Nintendo does have a stellar reputation for offering approachable games and single-system multiplayer, and is often thought of as a good choice for girlfriend gaming. Your other option is to run an extra video cable from your PC to your TV if your hardware supports it, and buy some wireless controllers. (I recommend wireless Xbox One controllers, or wireless Xbox 360 controllers if you're running Windows 7.) Then you can just play PC games on your couch, although it won't be quite as simple to start and switch between games, which might not sit well with your g/f.
Connecting multiple consoles to your TV is not particularly menacing, unless you just don't have the physical space for it. If you have a 4K set you probably have enough spare HDMI ports, and if not you can get an HDMI switch to expand the number of available ports, along with a power strip or two if need be. I have 6 consoles hooked up to my 4K flatscreen — PS4, PS3, Xbox One, Xbox 360, Nintendo Switch and Nintendo Wii U. That's why I don't worry about backwards compatibility.
You have no idea what you’re talking. Switches and hubs are old, commonplace technology. I’ve been using this one for years without issue. Everything dx20 said is made up.
I use the Kinivo 501BN due to many HDMI devices and not enough HDMI ports. A rock solid product showing flawless execution with my PS4, Switch and many other electronics. No lag or loss in video and audio. There is a cheaper 3-port if that fits your need and budget.
Sounds like you're looking for an HDMI switch. They exist, but you'll still need to use the switch to decide which input should be passed through to the TV as needed.
A rather fancy switch
Less fancy switch
You could use something like this, just a simple HDMI switch.
Don't know if this is the right place to post.
You could buy these two and use them, the only problem you would come across really would be the controller itself staying connected. However windows 10 would be more realistic over longer distances.
http://www.amazon.com/Nyrius-Transmitter-Streaming-Satellite-NAVS500/dp/B005H3AU1Y/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452908420&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=hdmi+wireless
And
http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452908472&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=hdmi+hub
I use a switch box, one for composite/s-video systems, and one for HDMI systems. But I have a question now looking at this. I assume you can leave all the consoles hooked up? You don't need to unplug one console to use another? If so, what would happen if you turn two or more consoles on at the same time? I assume nothing.
Really didn't know these existed or even thought of something like this when I bought the switch box. If you do have to change over when using different consoles I'd probably still stay with the switch box. Constantly unplugging and plugging probably isn't good for the inputs on the consoles after many years of use.
Edit: I just noticed the composite switch box I use is no longer made, and the $120 price tag is incredibly more expensive now. I bought it for under $40 CDN in early 2014. This is the one I'd probably buy now and looks pretty similar. I actually like this one better, as it has 8 outputs instead of 6. Doesn't have S-Video which kinda sucks though. All 8 + Input is on the back, where mine the 6th output is on the front. Making cable management look less clean on the one I have.
Kinivo makes a fantastic one. http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1451911110&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=Kinivo
Great hdmi switcher : http://smile.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=sr_1_7?s=audio-video-accessories&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1451589738&amp;sr=1-7&amp;keywords=hdmi+switch
I have 2 of them and have zero complaints.
The one I have is called KINIVO 501BN. Ive had it for about 5 years or more now. Here is a link to the same model I have, although mine has silver around the edge instead of white for some reason.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1506449004&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=kinivo+hdmi
An HDMI switch will only let you select 1 HDMI from (however many switch supports). The receiver would also be your sound system amplifier.
So something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1376704148&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=hdmi+switch
(Not one I own, just the first 5 port one I saw.)
For least headache, make sure it supports HDCP.
The one I use has 5 inputs to 1 output. Link.
I'm actually looking to get a second one if I ever by another dock so I can have one hooked up to my living room tv. I've owned it for 2-3 years now though and its been great. If you change input it can detect the power and automatically switch over to the input that just got powered on so you don't need to use the remote unless you want to.
I have it working with this just fine:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049SCB2Y/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
No problems to report. Also I have not done any sort of tweaking or anything to the Retropie regarding HDMI settings. Just worked for me.
This works for my PS4, laptop, roku, and chromecast. I don't have a PS3 but I imagine it would work.
This is the on I use, although it has a remote I've never had to use it as the switch recognizes which port is being used and changes accordingly. I'm sure there are other higher priced units out there, bit this one had good reviews and I have no complaints. Since I don't yet have a 4k tv or a 4k console I have no need for a 4k capable switch.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0049SCB2Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1509915684&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=kinivo+hdmi+switch&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41F3h7s806L&amp;ref=plSrch
I have this HDMI switch https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B0049SCB2Y/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
It has 5 inputs and auto switches when it detects a new input
If that's a real concern, I can't recommended this enough: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0049SCB2Y
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0049SCB2Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_2/146-5724086-0302219?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1500855975&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=auto+sensing+hdmi+switch&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41F3h7s806L&amp;ref=plSrch
This says it has auto sense and a remote.
Generally it is either one or the other tho.
I bought this one for my dad. He seems to like it. There are models by this manufacturer with fewer HDMI ports for less money, but some of the reviews for those models concerned me. My dad has been using it since Christmas of 2014.
I know it's been a few days since you posted this, but I have a question maybe you can answer. What is a good HDMI switcher? I had one from Amazon a while back that crapped out on me pretty fast, and I've been hesitant to get a new one.
Edit: This is the one I had.
You should try to get the VGA HD AV cable listed on this page. After that, you would need a VGA swticher and an RCA cable switcher. You may be able to find both functionalities in the same box if you look hard.
So it has two RCA connectors?
If so, it has a single stereo input, and what you need is a selector switch to give you multiple stereo inputs.
As below, you need something like this, just ignore the video channel (yellow)
>RCA switchers, but they all seem to be too expensive
[this] (http://www.amazon.com/niceEshop-Composite-Selector-Switch-Splitter/dp/B004T8KZCM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1415488695&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=rca+switch) is $3, what makes you say they're too expensive?
>not exactly what I need
It seems to be exactly what you need, no?
BTW - we have a purchase advice thread, it should be at the very top of your screen and mentioned no less than 3 times in the process of posting.
RCA splitter or switch?
Just got my first headphone amp and DAC. Amp only has one RCA input and I want to run my phono preamp into the amp along with input from the DAC. Is there any downside to using a split RCA cable (something like this: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01MRVF9XJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_ArTpzbSKYTD4R) as opposed to a switch (something like this: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B004T8KZCM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_sqTpzbRMQQKP9)?
Obviously I would only be running one source at a time.
<a href="http://www.amazon.com/Composite-Audio-Selector-Switch-Splitter/dp/B004T8KZCM"&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; should work for the DVD player, the direcTV, and even the Chromebook, but you're kids screwed for Chromecast.
http://www.amazon.com/niceeshop-Composite-Selector-Switch-Splitter/dp/B004T8KZCM
There are several ways to accomplish what you are looking for, I'l list the most common. The cheapest and easiest way would be through an RCA switch like the one located at http://www.amazon.com/Composite-Audio-Selector-Switch-Splitter/dp/B004T8KZCM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1425623481&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=RCA+switch They are fairly easy and essentially turn your one input into two or more. You could also get an A/V Receiver but that sounds a little overkill. Most will, however, upscale those older devices to proper 1080p resolution. The chances of finding a TV with that many RCA inputs in this day and age are pretty slim as little to no devices use those connections anymore, although if you looked around I'm sure you could find one. Hope that helps!
Isn't there a switch in the base for the turtle beach?
The xbone will have optical out for audio and on the PC is fine with the RCA cable.
Just switch the switch on the the beach. And change inputs on the receiver.
Hah I thought u ere talking about the same tb headset i have its a wireless one with a base that u can select inputs on.
However, get an RCA input selector from radio shack /walmart and have it go out to the receiver. Does the monitor for Xbox have an audio out? I picked up a 27" ASUS that has audio out so I HDMI in from my ps3 and 3.5mm out to my stereo.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004T8KZCM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1374196755&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SL75
You might be interested in an HDMI switch.
You want this or use it as an excuse to get a decent sound system. A receiver will have many inputs and will let you switch source.
Suggestion: If you want to bypass the need for a switcher, you could use a mini-DP cable for the Vive, and continue using an HDMI cable for the Rift - that'll lessen the possibility for annoying HDCP checks, anyway.
If that's not good, I have to switcher suggestions, which I use in my console capture setup:
Solid, with an audio stripper: LINK
Just as reliable, better price point: LINK
Both support and include IR remotes.
Ah, thank you for clarifying that for me. That’s just what I need. I think I’ll get this one Fosmon HD1832 Intelligent 5x1 5-Port HDMI Switch/Switcher with IR Remote and 1.5 Meter USB Power Cable (Supports 3D) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008D6YZXG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3iguDbKH5Z750
I use Fosmon HD1832 Intelligent 5-Port HDMI Switch Splitter with IR Remote and AC Adapter Supports 3D, 5 In 1 Out Switcher - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008D6YZXG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_gQCeAbNFZMX5Z
This one right here https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 along with a powered switcher https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-HD1832-Intelligent-Adapter-Supports/dp/B008D6YZXG/ is what I use , the splitter removes the hdcp signal is why I use it with my PS4
To get audio off the Surface:
a) The Surface itself and the dock have 3.5 mm analog stereo audio outputs. That can connect via a 3.5 mm to RCA cable to an AVR: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8KO2/
b) The DisplayPort outputs contain digital audio signals that can be pulled off a display that passes digital audio through to an S/PDIF output, or analog RCA outputs. There are also HDMI audio DACs if your displays do not have audio passthrough.
c) USB audio DAC.
To get video and audio from your AVR to your displays, connect the second HDMI or DisplayPort or DVI input on the display to the HDMI using the correct combination of cables and socket adapters. If your displays only have one digital input, you'll need some kind of source selector: https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-HD1832-Intelligent-Adapter-Supports/dp/B008D6YZXG/
You can't connect them both at the same time.
You could get the cable I mentioned above and this cable and then you'd be able to swap the two at the HDMI input.
Edit: If you don't want to swap cables around, you can put something like this in there to switch HDMI inputs
Right now the wii u is plugged to input 3, I think. Never had a problem with it. My old switcher had snow problems after a power surge. Now everything is in a couple UPS Battery backups.
I'm using this switcher.
Some monitors allow for multiple inputs so that would be the choice you may want to look into. You can also purchase a switcher where you plug all inputs into one unit and choose between the inputs of choice :)
Something similar to this one: https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-HD1832-Intelligent-Adapter-Supports/dp/B008D6YZXG/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491504641&amp;sr=8-9&amp;keywords=input+switcher
Of course I'm sure there are better switcher options out there but that's what I retrieved on a quick amazon search haha
I have this one:
http://smile.amazon.com/Fosmon-HD1832-Intelligent-Switcher-Supports/dp/B008D6YZXG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1419692455&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=hdmi+switcher
My TV has 3 HDMI ports, but between my DVD changer/theatre receiver (it's 2-way), cable box, PS4, and chromecast, I was left one short.
This HDMI switcher (like many others) will auto switch when it receives a signal, based on priority of the port.
I.E. you put your cable box into port 3, and chromecast into port 1. when it senses a signal from the chromecast, it'll autoswitch to that port.
The Switch is the only console of the generation I have or have any plans to buy so far. Can't help you with 4k I'm afraid.
However this is the selector I use.
Yea sorry I didn't see this. I use this: https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-HD1832-Intelligent-Splitter-Supports/dp/B008D6YZXG
Works like a charm, easy to swap my main monitor between my Xbox and PC and once I build my desktop I'll just add a third spot for if I need to use all three at once for some unknown reason
Your output from the HD60 pro is the same as its input. You've essentially added something in the middle of the connection.
Your computer isn't hooked up to your second monitor at all.
You could add a third monitor if you wish to keep your 2nd dedicated to the other HDMI source, or you could add an HDMI switch that you would plug your computer and HD60 pro into as input and then output to the monitor that would allow you to use it for both, but only one at a time.
Edit:
Fosmon HD1832 Intelligent 5-Port HDMI Switch with IR Remote and AC Adapter Supports 3D, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008D6YZXG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jUsxyb17VX5Q7
This allows you to have 2 HDMI sources into your monitor (HD60 and PC) and toggle between them.
an hdmi switcher. Here is one http://www.amazon.com/Tonor-Black-Switcher-Splitter-Support/dp/B00SGWFCAM/ref=sr_1_1?s=audio-video-accessories&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452158570&amp;sr=1-1-spons&amp;keywords=hdmi+switcher&amp;psc=1.
I personally use this one: http://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-HD1832-Intelligent-Switcher-Supports/dp/B008D6YZXG/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452158650&amp;sr=1-8&amp;keywords=hdmi+switcher
and love it. It has smart switch, so anytime I turn on a console it automatically switches inputs, in the rare case it doesn't it has a button on the device, and it comes with a remote. I have 3 consoles and a pc hooked up to one monitor with this thing and it's one of the best purchases I've made in a long time.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B008D6YZXG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1472787927&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=4+port+hdmi+switch&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51lrSjiGLsL&amp;ref=plSrch
This guy https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008D6YZXG/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499140917&amp;sr=8-5&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=hdmi+switch&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51lrSjiGLsL&amp;ref=plSrch
And this guy
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KBHX072/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499140997&amp;sr=8-7&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=hdmi+audio+extractor&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=415sEjTUBYL&amp;ref=plSrch
Systems > splitter > extractor > monitor / speakers
I use the Fosman HD 1832 5 port switch for my Wii U, and it works great.
Amazon Link
A cleaner solution to your 2 HDMI input TV might be something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008D6YZXG
https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-HD1831-3-Port-Switch-Pigtail/dp/B008GVOVK0/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484842478&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=automatic+hdmi+switch
You could just toggle the TV as a second monitor in display settings. Or get something like this however if the resolutions are different you'd have to adjust it every time you hit the switch (I think...)
I think it should be fine.
You may need to turn tv volume down if it sounds like echo.
You could also try an HDMI switch.
i have this https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-HD1831-3-Port-Switch-Pigtail/dp/B008GVOVK0/ref=pd_sim_23_9?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B008GVOVK0&amp;pd_rd_r=0X3SNTPPNVXHRV696418&amp;pd_rd_w=xtFHg&amp;pd_rd_wg=3IdOJ&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=0X3SNTPPNVXHRV696418 is the second like him ?
because my splitter is change to another device when i play on ps4 :(
Get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-HD1831-3-Port-Switch-Pigtail/dp/B008GVOVK0
Much cheaper and easier than trying to get it routed through your computer.
Any recommendations? There's so many on Amazon but this one is the most popular:
Fosmon HD1831 3-Port HDMI Switch with Pigtail Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008GVOVK0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5eFQybEFKGCDE
Yeah, you want an HDMI switch then, the device link/CEC passthrough would probably only work for the currently selected input though.
Something like this would work for 1080p
Or a hardware solution
I use this one to switch between my PC, PS3 and PS4 and haven't had any issues with it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008GVOVK0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LSguzbWQPBBHT
My reply was rejected because I used a url shortener, here's the full link:
https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-HD1831-3-Port-Switch-Pigtail/dp/B008GVOVK0/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1501358899&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=hdmi+switch
I hooked it up and attached it to the back of my monitor with Velcro. It does auto-detect the signal reasonably well and it's easy to reach behind the monitor and hit the selection button when I want to actively switch.
A switch is for plugging multiple sources to one display. A splitter is for connecting one source to multiple displays. You want a switch.
However, some listings on Amazon will label a switch as a splitter, a splitter as a switch, or label a device as a switch splitter.
I use one of these and it works fine.
It's available with many different brandings. They're all the same.
Fosmon
EAKAI
KCOOL
fitTek
Cablor
So I use a single monitor and I decided to extend my display to my Playstation Television. I bought this splitter: https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-HD1831-3-Port-Switch-Pigtail/dp/B008GVOVK0/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493355050&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=hdmi+splitter
I just tried using it and I don't think it's working? I connected the single end to my graphics card and the other 2 to the 3-input end. Nothing is being shown..did I buy the wrong product or am I doing something wrong?
Pls help a lost soul
This is for your USB dock and this is for your HDMI Splitter
https://www.amazon.com/TCL-43S405-43-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01N29XPO3/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503664790&amp;sr=1-8&amp;keywords=tv
This one, TCL is a good brand they make good computer monitors.
And for 329 dollars u cant do better than that.
When u watch 4k netflix ur mind will be so blown u would not regret for a second 4k upgrade.
and for the hdmi problem everyone has, u can get an hdmi split all tvs dont have many hdmi ports like is rare one who have more than 4.
https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-HD1831-3-Port-Switch-Pigtail/dp/B008GVOVK0/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503665138&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=hdmi+split This will solve most of ur problems and also will be helpfull since it will make plugging hdmi accesible.
Hmm,
This switch and use a HDMI splitter. However this means all or nothing. Alternatively you can use this on one monitor only.
I'm assuming you are based in the US, apologies if not
https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-HD1831-3-Port-Switch-Pigtail/dp/B008GVOVK0/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481116207&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=hdmi+splitter
Would it just be best to get an HDMI switch like this?
Would you say either of these are a good brand?
http://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-HD1831-3-Port-Switch-Pigtail/dp/B008GVOVK0/ref=sr_1_5?s=audio-video-accessories&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449575784&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=hdmi+switcher
or
http://www.amazon.com/Hausbell-HDMI-V1-3-3-Port-Speed-Adapter/dp/B00SQYKPAM/ref=sr_1_10?s=audio-video-accessories&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449575784&amp;sr=1-10&amp;keywords=hdmi+switcher
Because you want three of them and the display you want doesn't support Thunderbolt, you'll need a lot of cabling. You could try USB-C to HDMI to an HDMI splitter. If you've got the budget and want to expand to more ports than just HDMI then you can get this Thunderbolt 3 hub, and use the splitter from that.
How about this
Yes.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008GVOVK0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415803554&amp;sr=1-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40
I have my Tivo and Raspberry Pi going into my xbox through an HDMI Switch. I can switch to the Raspberry Pi with no issues, but if I switch to the Tivo the screen is just dark and nothing comes through. I can switch back to the Raspberry Pi with no issues. This is the switch I am using:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008GVOVK0/
I don't need 4K or anything like that, but I might try the two port version of the Monoprice Blackbird Pro.
I got this one and have had no issues at all https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008GVOVK0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Damn thats an expenisve one. I dont really have any advice on your situation, but I use this one and it works perfectly and only set me back 10 bucks:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008GVOVK0/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687762&amp;pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&amp;pf_rd_t=201&amp;pf_rd_i=B003LMN5N8&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=1XRN1P88T0T2D7V623NE
I'm not sure if this would help, but here is what I bought when I ran out of HDMI slots.
Amazon link
It has 3 HDMI slots and for me at least, when I turn power on to my ATV4 that is what displays, if I then turn on my PS3 it will switch to that automatically. I have my cable box on a separate HDMI slot, so I don't know how it would work with that.
something like this would work perfectly fine
This is the Amazon link. The only number I can find is 109-pcb-v2.0 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B46XUQU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vwzwDb693EDRP
What splitter is it? I have this one and have it hooked up with XB1 360 and PC and it works great.
I love this dish.
Really, I freaking love it. Chicken breast grilled in a cast iron pan. Smother it with bbq sauce. Serve with scalloped potatoes and corn on the cob. Delicious, hearty, and freaking mmmm.
Thanks for the contest!
If you have a monitor that only has 1 HDMI port on it then you can grab This like I did. Great for switching my computer and my ps3 while using the same monitor.
is this the $10 you have? [Portta PET0301S 3x1 HDMI Switcher] (http://www.amazon.com/Portta-PET0301S-HDMI-Switcher-Support/dp/B00B46XUQU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1396464164&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=hdmi+switch)
Any downsides to this?
You mean like this?
Got this one here: http://www.amazon.com/PORTTA-PET0301S-Switcher-Supports-Wireless/dp/B00B46XUQU?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00
Works like a champ. No issues whatsoever and can't beat the price. Auto switches to whatever gets turned on, comes with remote as well.
Here is my diagram: https://cdn.mediacru.sh/K3z53WC5uUjd.svg
You can zoom in if you can't read the text.
You can use both the PC and the Wii U with the same screen and the same speakers this way.
The only problem you will encounter with this method is that the screen has only one HDMI plug.
So you will need to do one of 3 things:
Note that with that setup, for your PC the graphics card will output audio through HDMI instead of the motherboard/audio card. It may require a simple setting change: you may have to set HDMI as the default audio playback peripheral.
http://www.amazon.com/Switch-Switcher-Supports-Wireless-Remote/dp/B00B46XUQU
I have my cable box, ps4, and wii u connected to it and it automatically switches to whatever is turn on. My only regret is not getting one with more inputs for my Xbox.
You could get an HDMI switch. What's the model # of your monitor?
Would something like this suffice?
https://www.amazon.com/Portta-N3SWT31-Switcher-Key-Press-Switching-support/dp/B00B46XUQU
Alternative and cheap solution I went with: HDMI Switch. http://www.amazon.com/PORTTA-PET0301S-Switcher-Supports-Wireless/dp/B00B46XUQU/ref=sr_1_8?s=audio-video-accessories&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458489290&amp;sr=1-8&amp;keywords=hdmi+switch
(not that exact switch)
I've had this one for about a year and a half. What I like about it is that one port is designated as the default port. If no other ports are passing signal, it is selected. When another source starts displaying signal, it switches to the new device.
This is good for devices like the AppleTV that tend to remain powered on. It's set as the default so when my Xbox is turned on, it overrides the AppleTV.
Cheap and effective.
Not one bit. And it's set up beautifully. I have my xbox and computer in an HDMI Switcher, so when I turn my xbox on it changes my first monitor to Xbox and my second monitor to my computer.
My Mix amp is plugged in USB to my computer and Optically to my Xbox, so when volume is more towards Game it turns up the Xbox volume, turn it towards Voice and it turns up the PC volume instead. So Ill play Spotify while playing, if I want to focus more on the game I'll turn it the other way.
I use an automatic hdmi switch with my projector, it looks just like this one PORTTA PET0301S 3x1 Port HDMI Switch/Switcher 1080P Supports 3D with IR Wireless Remote Ultra High... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B46XUQU/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_mMeLub1ZRGZPQ
If only 1 device is in it automatically changes to it, if more than one is on it will default to the lowest numbered port, it also has a button and a remote to manually switch inputs.
this is the number 1 hdmi switch on amazon
Great idea for anyone with multiple hdmi devices anyways. I have THIS ONE and it works perfectly. Have had it for about a year with no issues so it lasts at least that long too. Its automatic, but also has a remote for if you have two things you want to switch back and forth from.
Another one
According to the reviews it has the automatic switch capability as well. I might grab one as my TV is running out of HDMI ports and it sounds kind of nice, not having to change the channel..
I tried using an HDMI 1.3 switch (https://www.amazon.com/Portta-Switch-Switcher-Key-Press-Switching-support/dp/B00B46XUQU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503971642&amp;sr=8-3) and it did not work. The TV still displayed the HDCP message from the receiver.
Here's one for 8 dollars!
http://www.amazon.com/PORTTA-PET0301S-Switcher-Supports-Wireless/dp/B00B46XUQU
HDMI switches are ultra cheap, just buy a chinese one. i have one, works great
mine is similar to THIS
remember to get some extra cheap HDMI cables.
I use
http://www.amazon.com/PORTTA-PET0301S-Switcher-Supports-Wireless/dp/B00B46XUQU
Actually yes it can, technically anything that can be converted to HDMI can be played on a Xbox One including all Playstation consoles, all Nintendo Consoles and any media device you throw at it. It really is the all in one device.
http://www.amazon.com/Mini-Composite-CVBS-Converter-1080P/dp/B009A6PJKQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1376082378&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=vcr+hdmi
To add even more support:
http://www.amazon.com/Portta-PET0301S-HDMI-Switcher-Support/dp/B00B46XUQU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1376082873&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=hdmi+switcher
Portta PET0301S 3x1 HDMI Switcher from the looks of it.
[Edit] No it isn't. But that linked HDMI switcher looks like something I'd like to get for myself, after reading the reviews.
This is helpful and pretty cheap
I have this one. Looks very similar to the one stop_drop_rofl linked to but mine didn't work with the PS4.
I just got one of these and so far I'm happy with it (albeit with only a short time using it so far):
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B46XUQU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I ran out of HDMI ports when I got my Chromecast, so I gave one of these a shot since they were cheap. I currently have a PS3 and a Chromecast connected to it.
My first experience wasn't great, as I got screen flickering while casting the screen on my 2013 Nexus 7. However, I've tested it again since then and I believe it was an issue with the Nexus or Chromecast, not with the switch.
The PS3 also works great through it.
It came with a remote to switch inputs, but I haven't used it, I just manually press the button on the switch.
I play on a gaming monitor so I only have one HDMI input and I really didn't like manually switching the HDMI cable. I did not want to deal with the input lag from the Xbox One's HDMI passthrough so I went this route for HDMI and Digital Optical switching.
This HDMI switch is great. No decline in quality. The reviews and price will back that up.
If you use gaming headset systems like Astro Gaming, Turtle Beach, etc, this Digital Optical Switch will do the same thing for your audio essentially without any degradation of the digital audio quality.
If your looking for an HDMI Switch I recommend this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B46XUQU/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Its cheap, works great and has a remote.
[Here] (http://pcpartpicker.com/part/asus-monitor-ve248h) you go. There's also [this] (http://pcpartpicker.com/part/asus-monitor-vn248hp) version that's cheaper (although it's 23.8in). It has 2 HDMI ports, no DVI, and 1 VGA. It's also an IPS monitor. I've heard that the cheaper IPS monitors tend to have a bit of a bleeding effect and there are some complaints about that in the review page for this monitor. If you're willing to give it a shot then go for it.
If you're like me and you don't have a TV as an option to to play your games on but you have multiple consoles, you can buy a device called an HDMI switcher. This allows you to plug in multiple devices that use HDMI ports into one HDMI port. [This] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B46XUQU/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_5?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) is the one I bought from amazon for $10. I have my X1 and 360 plugged into with one more port for the PS4 I'll be getting later. My PC is connected through the dvi port. So I'll have 4 devices connected to one monitor.
I'm sure the Wii U is the culprit. This is the splitter I have. It auto switches to whatever Hdmi input is in use
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B46XUQU/ref=redir_mdp_mobile?ref_=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_lPhqtb1GHZYWC
It doesn't come with a power cord, so I found a comment that said an old Nokia phone cord worked, bought that too thinking it would solve my problem.
Your monitor have hdmi in?
Here is a hdmi switch that would work.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B46XUQU?vs=1
If its only dvi you could get a hdmi to dvi cable
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B46XUQU/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I have this one and it works great. I have my chromecast and PS4 plugged into it. My favorite thing about it, is its ability to automatically switch sources if my ps4 is turned on.
I have mine connected in via a HDMI splitter with my HTPC. Works fine, I do not notice lag or anything different.
This is the HDMI splitter I am using, and it works great. Whichever device I turn on last gets the priority and when off the switcher goes back to the last device that was on.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B46XUQU/
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B46XUQU/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Interesting that you mention that, because I had used this switch and was having issues. Cablebox was in the 1st plug, bluray 2nd, and htpc 3rd, and the system would randomly cut to snow on the htpc input or be impossible to switch in between sources properly. Not sure if that is the type of issue you described. I assumed the switch just went bad.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B46XUQU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Why don't you just get a cheap HDMI switcher? With the one I had, you can set it up so that the BluRay is on input one so that it would automatically switch to that when you power on the device.
Here's the one I bought back in July of last year. It crapped in October.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00629NHW6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
And this obvious fail:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B46XUQU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/MT-VIKI-Splitter-Selector-Adapter-MT-831AV/dp/B00DRGDBTG/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1406345568&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=8in+1+out
I pretty much have the same set up. After a lot of searching this is what I found and it works great. MT-VIKI 8 Ports 8-In 1-Out AV RCA Splitter Selector Switch Adapter MT-831AV by MT-VIKI http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DRGDBTG/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_hKF6tb0XEKTZA
I know it's been a month, but why do want 8 component inputs? This page has a list of consoles that do component output. Only 4 of the consoles on that list can't do HDMI (that are consoles people actually care about, sorry Zeebo): Gamecube, Wii, PS2, XBox. For everything weaker there is composite or S-video (or RF) and for everything stronger there is HDMI.
So to solve the problem I just created: here is a cheap 4 input component switcher. I have one that has the same functionality but a slightly different look and it is serving me well. I can just press the button on the front to choose the next input.
I guess the reason I am posting is because I recently bought a Pelican System Selector Pro and realized that it doesn't convert anything. If you want to plug component and composite things into it you will need a special cable to be able to send the audio to the component and composite inputs on your tv. And you would need a second special cable if you wanted to do S-Video at the same time as the other two. I.e. I would still be using three of my tv's inputs but they would all be coming from one device. I didn't see how that would be any different from my current setup except that it would be more confusing to figure out which input on the tv to turn to.
If I haven't convinced you, I returned my PSSP today and it should be back at the seller in two or three days. I imagine he is going to re-list it so here's a link to the seller's storefront.
I am planning to replace my current composite switch with one of these 8 input selectors. Then I want to add a 5 input HDMI selector to round out the whole deal. Composite, component, HDMI. I don't forsee needing to buy more switches for a while after that, but I only have 10 consoles right now.
I just picked up these: MT-VIKI 8 Ports 8-In 1-Out AV RCA Splitter Selector Switch Adapter MT-831AV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DRGDBTG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jNy4xbXK6ZT6T
C&amp;amp;E Premium 3 RCA Audio Video Composite Cable 6 Feet Black, VF-34-RCA-RCA-CBLE-06-4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001VJ465O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kOy4xbHZ2QAYZ
NES AV Cable "Simulated Stereo" Audio Video TV Cord for Original Nintendo System replaces RF Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006457FUI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xPy4xbP6JF30T
Sega Genesis 1 Standard AV Cable (Bulk Packaging) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002FY0CM0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DPy4xbXCD658S
The Dreamcast, GameCube, etc. already came with the AV cords. These will have to do for now, at least they beat RF units even if only by a little. I can't afford mods to make these consoles HDMI compatible. Like you said the Gamecube HDMI cord goes for like $300 on eBay. For a 7yr old I think he'll be fine with these for now until proper funds come in to upgrade so many consoles. I doubt many kids his age would notice the difference unless it was on some huge TV.
Edit: The Element TV I got my son, listed in the OP was an open box and I had to return it base was broke. However all the consoles worked on it. I bought a Westinghouse 40"1080p TV to replace it, it was pretty cheap: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/westinghouse-40-class-40-diag--led-1080p-hdtv-black/5452800.p?skuId=5452800
I just hope all the consoles will work with this TV as well. I noticed some consoles will work on some TVs but not others? Example, his Dreamcast will work on my LG Plasma in my living room but not my LG LED in my bedroom.
I'm currently using this.
http://www.amazon.com/MT-VIKI-Splitter-Selector-Adapter-MT-831AV/dp/B00DRGDBTG/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1417768845&amp;sr=1-1
8 Ports, decent price, and sturdy as a brick.
Not sure what cables you're using, but if you're using the RCA Yellow/Red/White you could probably get something like this.
http://www.amazon.com/MT-VIKI-Splitter-Selector-Adapter-MT-831AV/dp/B00DRGDBTG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1451488378&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=av+switch
just ordered this one here http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DRGDBTG?pc_redir=1409997011&amp;robot_redir=1 had it for about a week now and it's awesome, works great. highly recommended
I would recommend this one. It's relatively cheap and has been working great!
I have a 8 port av switcher for all my old consoles works great. $20. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DRGDBTG/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_23_2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=1R7ZT7D9XPV709BFB7AQ
So what isn't working from the SPDIF from the tv to the receiver?
Both the xbox and PS3 have optical SPDIF so you can do HDMI to the tv, and SPDIF to your receiver for those two sources.
So really the question is if you're doing OTA antenna tv and spdif from the tv to the receiver, does that work right now?
EDIT: you'll also need an SPDIF switcher since your AVR only has a single SPDIF input.
threesome
http://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-TOSLINK-Digital-Optical-Switcher/dp/B00G188Z7A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1396290965&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=optical+switcher
I've been using this for the past few years and it works well.
http://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-TOSLINK-Digital-Switcher-VHD-TS3X1/dp/B00G188Z7A?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00
Your hypothetical setup ought to work. I've never really heard of a standalone phono pre with an optical output though.
Cheap RCA > optical converter
Optical switch
I wouldn’t buy it.
Depends on your needs but something like this
ViewHD SPDIF | TOSLINK Digital Optical Audio Switcher 3x1 with Remote | Three Inputs to One Output | Model: VHD-TS3X1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G188Z7A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_K9cHDbDQ2HJZ4
Gets the job done.
Just search for an audio switch online. Cheaper and just as effective options exist.
How about an optical switch like this one? I'm not recommending that switch in particular, it's just the first one that came up in a google search.
Edit: Sorry, misunderstood your issue. I guess this would depend on your TV and what audio outputs it has. Because you definitely need to plug the Chromecast directly into your TV, then the audio out will have to go to your soundbar.
Get one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-TOSLINK-Digital-Optical-Switcher/dp/B00G188Z7A
I'm not sure I perfectly understand what you need. Is it an HDMI switch?
https://www.amazon.ca/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y
I've been using this one for several years. Works great.
https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y
I've been using this one since 2012 still has not had one issue, just be sure any always on devices are plugged in lower than on off ones. https://smile.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/
https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y
makes life easy. Doesnt have to be that many ports...I have a kinivo tho. works fine
http://www.amazon.com/PORTTA-PET0301S-Switcher-Supports-Wireless/dp/B00B46XUQU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1420567407&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=hdmi+switcher
Thats a small one. They make them up to 6 open slots. IDK if its the one they use, but its one. They have more on Amazon.
or go super lazy like me and get one that has a remote to swap inputs. remote optical 3>1
Or you could get an HDMI switch.
Read some of the reviews on this one. You might’ve already looked at it, but it has the best ratings for what I think you’re looking for. $50.
unless you're monitor has audio out you're gonna need to get a switch that has audio output too. i use this one
this sort of thing? http://www.amazon.com/Portta-PET0301S-HDMI-Switcher-Support/dp/B00B46XUQU/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;rps=1&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1381211875&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=hdmi+switch
I mean, you could also just buy one of these...