Best automotive air & fuel ratio gauges according to redditors

The big engine performance step up from where you are at now is a pair of Mikuni VM series smoothbore carbs which last I heard are available in kit form for that bike, combined with a good set of pipes.

https://www.dimecitycycles.com/the-coveted-mikuni-vm30-carburetor-complete-kit-for-honda-cb-cl-350-360s.html

Read the fine print as there's another variant of this same kit for some of the 360s.

On pipes, I'm a big fan of adapting certain generic supertrapp mufflers meant for small race cars and go karts to our bikes because you can tune the airflow at the pipe as well as at the carb. Start here:

https://www.summitracing.com/search/Brand/SuperTrapp/Part-Type/Mufflers

Don't order anything from there until you have a good 2 into 1 header pipe already because you need to know the outlet diameter you'll end up with on the other end of a 2 into 1 merge. Yes, you want a two into one pipe for sure.

If you really truly know shit want to do it right and get it dialed in exactly, when you build the pipe set up drill a hole just downstream of the merge point and cap it with a nut of the correct size the hold the sensor for this critter:

https://www.amazon.com/AEM-30-0300-Wideband-Sensor-Controller/dp/B0184TSI84/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549311401&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=air+fuel+gauge&dpPl=1&dpID=41e9oHQ4hQL&ref=plSrch

This bad boy will tell you your exact fuel-air mixture and completely eliminate guesswork in carb and pipe tuning. The only problem is, permanently mounting it is a bitch because you cannot shorten any of the cables between that Bosch sensor and the gauge, and they come long enough for a car. Oops. That's okay, you really only need it during the tuning phase. Once you're done take it off and screw a bolt into the nut you've welded into the exhaust that's the same thread pitch as the Bosch exhaust gas sensor.

These things completely revolutionized carb tuning and I did not know about them when I wrote this:

http://www.motorbikemondays.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/CafeRacerGuide-1.pdf

On suspension, rims and handling issues I'm going to refer you to that document. I'll be happy to answer questions.

Short form, you could do a hell of a lot and still keep it vintage-looking by using forks from a bigger bike of approximately the same era and technology, but also make sure those bigger forks can take cartridge emulator inserts internally. Add some decent rear shocks as well, make sure the swingarm pivot bushings are in good shape, put aluminum hoop over spoke rims fore and aft and you'll have something that can be tossed hard into an extremely twisty road and even beat some guy on a modern sport bike who can't use all his horsepower cuz it's too twisty. You'll have one big advantage if that thing is built up right: you'll be able to flop it in and out of corners faster because you'll have less gyroscopic effect off of light thin rims.

Although not nearly as nice (but much cheaper) I believe this would also get the job done.

Kwiksen 234-9064 234-4733 Heated... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I28UF1U?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


Catalytic Converter for 2003-2011... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QVWR1GB?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I got these and no CEL return, just passed emissions in OR!!

I highly recommend you get the OEM exhaust “donut” gasket over aftermarket. I spent about 3 hours trying to get an aftermarket one on, OEM slipped on like butter...

Sorry for the late reply. Technically the part is an "Air Fuel Ratio Sensor" and will be the upsteam catalyst mounted sensor. The part number is the same that I found as Denso sensor's are OE and while pricier, totally worth it for the quality.

Borrow a socket meant for sensors and you'll have this done in no time.

https://www.amazon.com/Denso-234-9076-Air-Fuel-Sensor/dp/B007MD0LGG

If you're going to the dealership, you're probably overpaying by a factor of 2x.

Knowledge trickles down; on a 20-year-old car they probably want to charge you OEM prices (probably around $150) for the sensor and then do the associated equipment package (which would require replacing all AF and O2 sensors) rather than just the faulted one.

It's a $40 part, probably made by NGK or Denso.

(checks Amazon...)

Genuine Toyota Part for $115

$60 aftermarket

If I shopped around I could probably find something for $40. But $60 is close, no?

Take it to an indy; that $400 repair should be a $150 repair, tops.

It would be helpful if you could provide links to the manuals of the products you want to connect, or at least the make/models.

A speaker out to line level adapter is probably not the correct solution because the settings on that adapter would need to change with the volume of the amplifier you're feeding it with.

Every commercial receiver, pre-amplifier, or integrated amplifier I've ever seen has at least one of the following line-level(-ish) outputs: headphone jack (TRS), tape out (RCA), pre-out (RCA), equalizer out, TV (RCA, HDMI), or SPDIF/Toslink (digital).

If you absolutely want to connect using a converter instead of connecting the sub properly, consider volume control devices:

https://www.amazon.ca/AUDEW-Amplifier-Control-Remote-Universal/dp/B014MCLUS2/

https://www.amazon.ca/XCSOURCE-Universal-Amplifier-Controller-MA713/dp/B01IR13NGG/

(I can't speak to the quality of any of those, the entire product category is fancy boxed variable resistors of some kind, so around $1-2 in parts costs.)

ROFL. Bad advice day? "Most carb guys don't use any of that." Obviously someone has never been around people setting up high horsepower carbed engines. The only part I see these guys tune by ear is idle, part throttle and full throttle get the gauge.

OP, you're looking for an AEM UEGO Wideband. They're like $200. The new X-Series are awesome.