(Part 2) Best automotive battery terminals according to redditors
We found 158 Reddit comments discussing the best automotive battery terminals. We ranked the 49 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
Yup, the kit included the wrong tool. Those dies are for the right style of terminal (open-barrel), but completely the wrong size -- they're enormous! You could happily crimp 9.5mm terminals onto 4mm2 wire with the big nest there! The smallest one doesn't look like it's anywhere near small enough for 0.64mm terminals you're using.
If you're not opposed to spending a little more, this is the best hand-crimper ever made for open-barrel terminals. It's non-ratcheting, so you don't have to hassle with adjusting the shut height for different wire gauges, just go until your calibrated wrist says the copper stopped moving. It has an enormous range of nest sizes, able to crimp everything from the minuscule "mini-50" terminals found in certain automotive applications, to the gargantuan 9.5mm beasts in power applications and everything in between. It'll do your Dupont wires (and every other 0.64 terminal) up real nice.
(The one thing it doesn't do is short-crimp terminals like JST's. For those you need a narrow jaw like the Engineer PA-series tools.)
Also, check out the best page on the internet about open-barrel crimp tools, terminals, and quality. I couldn't have written it better myself.
I was thinking of something like this so they didn't constantly have to stress their connectors tightening and loosening them over and over, but yeah.
I bought this lug wrench from Amazon since the one it comes with is worthless. High gauge, long jumper cables Also, I threw a can of fix a flat in the back. I replaced the cabin lights with white LEDs (cheap and easy), and Weathertech floor mats (awesome for winter). A basic tool kit would be great, as well.
Wire brush clean the battery posts and cables. There's a handy tool for this. Then start following the current. If you don't have one, pick up a decent multimeter (around $30 or less?) and check voltage at the top of the battery post. Should be around 12.6 or higher. If that checks out then I would check the current at big wire connection to your starter. You could also watch the current at the top of the battery while you crank it over.
It's also a good idea to check the battery negative ground connection. Remove it and clean it. You could Google the location of wiring harness grounds and check those too.
If the battery voltage isn't maintaining when the car is running then it may be either your alternator belt is worn or not tight enough or the alternator connections are bad or the alternator is bad. I prefer to get factory original alternators and starters rebuilt over buying new or rebuilt of unknown quality.
I have something like this on my bike that has an SAE quick disonnect plug and a fuse. That link has a 3 amp fuse but mine has a 7.5 amp. Then I plug a Battery Tender USB plug into it when I need it. When it's not connected there's no possibility of the battery being discharged.
>I trust these guys a lot
And here you are.
-Lower ball joints seeping grease: They can do that for a while. Your shop doesn't seem to want to replace them though, so.
-Leaking pan gasket: You can afford to have a lot of oil leaking for $350. Are you leaking enough to have to add oil because of the leak between oil changes? No? Then unless you are a Rockefeller (or are damaging the surfaces you park it on) I'd leave it alone.
-Struts and mounts--Because they are 'weak' and the boots are torn. Don't care about the 'torn', but weak? Maybe. Does it drive and handle ok? Are your tires wearing funny?
-Alignment: Yeah, if you do the struts, you might want to align it.
-Battery service: For $50, you can probably disconnect the battery, clean the terminals yourself. Oh, don't forget the corrosion protectors
My battery and terminals just looked like that and cleaned it up last weekend.
Take the battery off and use hot water to clean most of the battery up.
Used hot water on my terminals as well.
After that i used a hot water/baking soda mix to neutralize the acid.
Bought a few things off amazon as well:
https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W147C-Terminal-Cleaning/dp/B004BTV82U/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1520547692&sr=8-3&keywords=battery+terminal+cleaner
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1520547711&sr=1-4&keywords=dielectric+grease
The dielectric grease should help it from getting moisture and corrosion on it again.
For the wire to the starter you just need to buy another cable. There are terminals available that can accept multiple wires such as this one. You'll need to make sure to find one that accepts the stock wire gauge.
I suppose if your stock one is already set up like that then you could splice it together. Just be careful to do a good splice, because that wire is carrying a lot of current.
Use some kind of coupling or termination block. shop around this kind of product, maybe something like this would work.
I agree with u/Sehc. I like fuses better than breakers.
You should get a solar charge controller inbetween the battery and panel, and it sounds like clips are sub optimal and you're looking for a more permanent install. Something like
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KS6BLY0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xgn5yb7V3DPTY (any brand) but the inline fuse is a nice thing and imo necessary.
Its a standard connection you'll find on solar regulator thingys and panels made for cars. Can also buy an extension, and wire it into the cabin without much trouble if you have an accessible hole from engine to cabin.
Had the same issue. Here's the part off Amazon. It was easy to do the swap out, only took two minutes.
Genuine Toyota 90982-05054... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G6FFFDU?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
You could use something like this to replace those wire nuts...
https://www.amazon.com/Fastronix-Stud-Junction-Block-Kit/dp/B015EL5KHM
or this...
https://www.amazon.com/URBEST5-Position-Covered-Screw-Terminal/dp/B01CG2HI0E
You could replace what looks like spiral phone cord with new thermostat wire and tape it down to the copper pipe.
man... this really sounds like a battery issue.
before you lose your hair and junk your jeep, go to a boat shop and look for some Zinc No Corrosion battery lugs and some crimp on ring ends. Get some dielectric grease or Noalox to fill those ring ends too. Cut the stock lead shit off. Clean your battery terminals WELL with a wire brush or a battery terminal cleaner. fill a ring with DG or Noalox, and crimp. assemble. From the same boat store, they ought to have some battery terminal protector spray too - it's red sticky, and oily too. that'll keep the water from corroding your terminals.
Parts:
https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-TZKIT2-Lead-Free-Battery-Terminal/dp/B00DNU3MNG or
https://www.amazon.com/Military-Spec-Battery-Terminal-Post/dp/B00X36RILW/
https://www.amazon.com/Ideal-30-030-Anti-Oxidant-Compound-Squeeze/dp/B000LDE7V4
https://www.amazon.com/CRC-Marine-Battery-Terminal-Protector/dp/B0000AZ9J4
These are the terminals I ordered. Then I bought the generic brand cables from autozone. They make all different lengths so I just took a tape measure to my existing ones to find out how long they needed to be
This is what the cables look like at the store. They go from like 20" to 96" I think so just measure your existing ones and buy the new, and bolt to the terminals. There's even photos on Amazon from customers that show the finished product
That's irrelevant to the multifunction aspect of the switch fortunately. All you need in order to access that is the puller and the plate press. The lever itself is connected to an arm in the column which engages the actual turn signal switch behind the lock plate. There's a chance the screw has come loose.
However, signal function after turning off the vehicle sounds like a combination of ignition switch adjustment, and possibly impending switch failure and potential connector issues. Really, this is just something that happens with Saginaw columns, so it's a guess thrown at a big target essentially. If things like the blower controls and radio also work when you have this issue, I'd look at the ignition switch and it's connectors. It could be as simple as the hardware holding the switch down to the column is loose. Does your high beam switch work?
I bought something like this but didn't care for the idea of splicing leads so I also got some of these and some of these to terminate at the end of the wire without a splice.
Car battery terminal cleaning brush
My 2010 Bmw has about a billion electric things in it and I store it all winter (December to April) and the battery is fine. You should be good to go. May want to invest in a quick disconnect from amazon for like $5 for next time
CARTMAN Swan Style Quick Disconnect Battery Terminal 2-Pieces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C22QL6D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GgskDbF80Y1ZF
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CXSPB2X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zlBOBbV0VWJ1B
I purchased these hoping to be able to snip corroded wire out and strip it enough on the original harness and call it good. If not I have all new wires and terminals ordered to upgrade the big 3 cables
this is as close as i can spot easily..
https://www.amazon.com/BT4Z-14450-AA-Positive-Battery-Terminal-Clamp/dp/B07KDVZMHY?ref_=Oct_BSellerC_15720011_4&pf_rd_p=6ca81d4d-e7b9-5dee-8084-92b32e7c1df6&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=15720011&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=Z463DNTN38AFV86336ET&pf_rd_r=Z463DNTN38AFV86336ET&pf_rd_p=6ca81d4d-e7b9-5dee-8084-92b32e7c1df6 you may be able to straighten up the drooping crimp for the cable.
this looks like a Ford part number bt4z-14450-aa positive battery terminal clamp