Best automotive electrical accessories according to redditors

We found 102 Reddit comments discussing the best automotive electrical accessories. We ranked the 74 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top Reddit comments about Automotive Replacement Electrical Accessories:

u/_stayhuman · 45 pointsr/electricians
u/spsessions · 20 pointsr/cars
u/Kalsifur · 10 pointsr/ebikes

Looks like a car/automotiv style connector. You can find little extensions for it such as this.

u/Energieko · 5 pointsr/bikesgonewild

This job was an amalgamation of many different components rather than a single kit.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BQE5JAK/ref=pe_309540_26725410_item

I bought two of these packs and some wire, and some quick connectors

http://www.amazon.com/Allstar-Performance-ALL76232-Universal-Connector/dp/B003C01FD6/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1369623890&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=12v+connector

and then I took my soldering iron and went at it with some black electrical tape and heat-shrink tubing

I had a remote & module left over from my last bike, which is why i opted to do it this way rather that buy a new kit from a site like ledglow.com

Coincidentally, the module I am using is from ledglow.com

http://www.ledunderbody.com/replacement-single-color-flexible-motorcycle-control-box-and-wireless-remote.aspx

My method is not for the faint of heart. I recommend buying a plug and play 6 or 8 pc kit, rather than trying to make your own kit like I did, but to answer your question the LED's were from amazon with that first link.

u/PEnGUiN188 · 4 pointsr/electricians

Ideal 30-902 Spin-Twist Wire Connector Socket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R2CAK1I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_7Fg5Cb55JEK6G

You will either get total shit for using it or the whole crew will want to borrow it. There is no in between.

u/thesheeptrees · 3 pointsr/cars

Get on Crutchfield, they'll sell you what you need all in one package for a competitive price.

As for wiring the harness, sorry to say but it's very rare to find a pre-made double ended harness. Blaupunkt used to offer those for "select cars" a decade ago, but stopped because not enough takers.

If you're not comfortable with soldering and hate crimp connectors, you have two other options that are pretty good:

First there's these things...
https://www.amazon.com/Ginsco-Connector-Waterproof-10White-5Yellow/dp/B01GRKAMI6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1486599367&sr=8-4&keywords=solder+heat+shrink

They kick a lot of ass, literally solder and heat shrink in one step with a cig lighter or heat gun. I wouldn't use them under the hood (too hot under there) but in the dash? Awesome!

Other option is these things:

https://www.amazon.com/Posi-Lock-Connectors-14-16-gauge-601/dp/B00HTA8O9S/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1486599506&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=posi+lock+butt+connectors

Those things will join wires with no tools at all, apart from strippers of course.


These are fantastic btw, if you think you'll ever strip another wire in your life later https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01924A-Ultimate-Self-Adjusting-Stripper/dp/B000IYTCG6/ref=sr_1_9?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1486599547&sr=1-9&keywords=wire+stripper

u/AWES0M-0 · 3 pointsr/cars

> My biggest gripe about the car is the 1/2 lockout that happens with light throttle around 2k rpm forcing you to shift into fourth.

Buy something like this

u/Karcinagin · 3 pointsr/Harley

Appears to be a good design. The only spot I could see water being a problem would be the the 2-pole connection, but you do not have to use that or could hide the connection in the battery compartment. But for $40 I would attempt to make this myself. Just make sure you have an inline fuse. Or look at this and it even has USB. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FR2JF0W/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_x5XEub01RE0HP. If you are looking for just USB there is this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DJ5KEF4/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_A8XEub0EXCW4G

u/Blackmamba42 · 3 pointsr/internetparents

So first things first buy some "twist wire connectors" like below: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I1PFD4Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yeH3Cb9RZTBBT

You may also want to buy a small-ish junction box for your wire connectors to be housed in if the cord is in an obvious area. Might be unnecessary if this is portable. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075DG55KS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DjH3Cb58QJNNH

Next turn off anything that would supply power to the wires in question. Might need to turn off circuit breakers at your electrical panel.

If you got the junction box, wire the cables into there and give yourself enough slack to where the wires jut out of the box by at least half the width of your fist.

Next feed both same colored wires into the twist connector and twist until hand tight. Repeat for each individual wire pair.

Take out the slack and use electrical tape around either side of the cable to reduce the tension on the wire connectors.

Close the junction box and you're done.

u/CptJango · 3 pointsr/Dashcam


>With that said, is there a preference of one over the other?

The A119 has a better camera vs the Mobius and has a screen which the latter doesnt. Personally, I would go with the A119

>my commute is generally 2 hours each way. When I get into the car the first thing I do is plug in my phone. Is there a cord I can purchase allowing the charge of the phone and cam simultaneously?

You can get something like this

>I live in NY. The summers get extremely hot, with ice cold winters. Is storage inside the car out of the question?

It isn't, but you would want one that doesn't have a bettery but instead has a capacitor which just means it'll only work when plugged in.

>I will not be able to keep the camera on the dashboard when the vehicle is unoccupied during the day, as I work in a highly populated area with a decent amount of crime (my car has been broken into in broad daylight while I was at the office)- so the ease in removing and reattaching the camera from its working position is VERY important to me.

Both are fairly easy to remove from the windshield to store away somewhere else.

u/laeth · 3 pointsr/sysadmin

I've had to wrap conduit around fiber already in production, and I've had success with a product similar to this. The key feature is the cut running lengthwise, which is present but not easily viewable in that product's picture.

u/acornstu · 3 pointsr/PowerWheelsMods

I havent done anything but tear it apart yet. Check out modifidepowerwheels.com. they have an old site thats got a green background. The other site is white and blue and somewhat active forums. Tones of info but it's a bitch to sort through. This video is a dune racer at 24v with a 775 sized rc car motor and metal pinion/motor gear and 1st gear.

Trying to figure out wtf ones to buy myself.

Rather than buy power wheels batteries just get 12v AGM batteries and install an inline 40 amp breaker. You'll spend half the money.

MLtoys.com sells road ready plug and play stuff if you have cash to just throw at it.

With a 24v dc to 12v dc step down converter you can still put lights all over it. Or use old school 24v lights.

Typically the batteries are around 10ah. So i grabbed 2 12ah.

Unsure how well this will perform but i found a cheap ESC on amazon here with a reverse switch. It's 24v up to 500 watts for 2 250watt scooter motors on another project. Unsure wtf motors and controllers i need for the dune racer. I'll help you more if i get it all figured out. TDPRO 24V 500W Brushed Speed Controller Reverse Swith Wire Scooter E-bike ATV Go Cart https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JB7S2TN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qhYvDb2RGC3KJ

Here's the end goal https://youtu.be/L3SpN4iSCBM

u/Maxwell_hau5_caffy · 2 pointsr/chevycolorado

Sounds like a job for an add-a-circuit fuse tap, relay and hardwired into the battery.

Find a fuse that is only powered with the ignition. From there use that as the signal on the relay. Then when the truck turns on, the relay will open and power the plug. Something like the running lights would work.

Supplies you'll want is either a Mini2 blade or micro2 blade fuse tap, depending on what the fuse is. A 12v cigarette lighter plug, and a wiring harness that is long enough to reach the bed from the engine bay. You can also extend it if needed easily. Just dont use the switch, as that will be powered by the fuse tap.


EDIT: I've done something similar except it powers my dashcam. https://imgur.com/a/t95ia


Since it wasnt pulling too much power, I didnt worry about putting a relay in the mix.

u/masgrada · 2 pointsr/electricians

Looks like someone had the wire nut driver for their drill, then went a little overboard with it.

u/OneLeggedBiker · 2 pointsr/Harley

Ok, so the first thing I would do is find a 2013 HD Factory Service Manual (Hint; a Google search will pop up a pdf version at the great price of free). The factory manual specifically details each electrical connector type and how to properly unhook/open/access them. THIS IS THE BEST TOOL YOU CAN HAVE! (I can't stress that enough that's why I yelled it.) Also, you should find a good online OEM parts microfiche. The same applies as above, a Google search will easily link you to a few. Side note: Maybe the part is cheaper than the work, unfortunately I like to work.

Secondly, use the correct tools. The best $20 I spent was on a sweet professional electrical connector crimp tool. This is the one I use. The same company also sells different types of electrical connectors. Not knowing how deep down the motorcycle rabbit hole you are, I personally purchased some of the connector kits. But, they also sell individual connectors. Here are some of those. If not there, that giant online web retailer has some individual connectors often used on HD's. Just be sure of the connector name and give it a search (Service manual will tell you the names). A quick one I did returned this as an example.

Pro Tip: Also, get connector tools. These are invaluable for opening some terminals. Yes, most of the time a good pick set will work. But, my experience with pick sets as connector tools has been sometimes one of pain (stabbing into my fingers, hand, etc.) and complete frustration (breaking old, weathered, brittle connectors, breaking wire shielding). Just to be clear, I don't work or get any compensation from the companies I mentioned. I'm merely a customer who has had a good experience and choose now to use them for my business.

Pro Tip #2: Take the rear wheel off to make the job easier. Yeah you may be able to squeeze a hand up there but it has been my experience that having the room to work is nice. And, then you can actually see too.

Thirdly, if you need to... beef up how the wire is managed in the rear fender. Automotive adhesive like they use on some auto trims and emblems is great for adding a plastic zip-tie anchor point. Just make sure the fender is clean and it'll stick great.

Last but not least, don't be afraid to reach out for help. The company of the crimp tool and connectors I use has great support and resources. The local parts counter maybe not so much (depends on your parts guy). I'm hesitant to say use videos off that one internet site, something tube... but use good judgement. If it's Joe-blo and his potato camera and his baby momma yelling in the back ground I probably wouldn't use that video. You can DM me as well, I can't promise to know everything but I can help to the best of my ability.

And, when your all done marvel in your work with a nice cold beer or soda. Just kidding, go out and crack the throttle.

u/Orion5662 · 2 pointsr/WranglerYJ

I got these as well and they're great. Definitely an upgrade over stock. I would highly recommend a relay upgrade. I had a random power draw issue that killed my battery after installed the lights. This kit (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00H5JFHR0?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title) fixed the issue and made the lights brighter. Just had to wire power and ground to the battery.

It plugged straight in to the stock headlight plugs. Definitely recommend.

u/77ticktock · 2 pointsr/CrownVictoria

No worries, you've got a good mindset to learn and no time like the present.

I'll add that most swear by solder and heatshrink + electrical tape. This is nice once you're really acclimated but you'll likely end up reconnecting things several times as you tinker and expand. I'll list below my couple of absolute favorite things I've picked up over the years and why I bought it:

Ratcheting Wire Crimper-- Can't tell you how many crimps have failed just because I didn't apply enough force. The ratchet ensures you get that final click down.

And a pricier ratchet I invested in over time-- Nice because it's more modular but not needed.


Posi Twists and also Posi Taps-- These make for quick connections + testing. Various sizes available but I tend to get some that cover 14+, and another set for smaller gauges ~22+

Solder Seal Wire Connectors-- I started buying these in bulk recently because they're just stupidly easy to use and make a rather quick and solid connection. Soldering is another experience onto itself if you've never done it before. While I tend to do more circuit-board soldering than wire to wire, it's all relatively similar and you'll find certain products that you fancy more over time. The biggest thing I'd say here is to buy solder WITH lead. Can't tell you how much frustration I've had over shit solder, haha.

My most recent wire stripper-- I chose because it has the largest range of gauges and there's no internal spring that forces the stripper open. Having one tool to do 10awg all the way to 26 is pretty sweet.

u/zrrich00 · 2 pointsr/CherokeeXJ

Pair Square 5''x 7'' Led Headlight High Low Beam Headlamp for Jeep Wrangler YJ Cherokee XJ Trucks 4X4 Offroad https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0733G5QLC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_kBVCHVpJQCQgW

Dual High Low Beam Headlight... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H5JFHR0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I'm running these two and it's amazing

u/solitudechirs · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

Cigarette lighter is pretty simple, just buy something like this, connect the wires to the positive and negative terminals on your battery, and mount it where you want it on your bike. Zip-ties, double sided tape, whatever works for your look. You might want to consider splicing it into a circuit that's only on when the bike's powered, so that you can't leave something plugged in and accidentally drain the battery. If you go this route, you should definitely get some sort of heatwrap for the wires so it's not a source for shorting out in rain.

Luggage is hard to recommend, because regardless of style, there's so many different options. Do you want one pocket? Many small pockets? 10L capacity? 30L capacity? Those are question only you can answer, and if you figure all of that out, then you should have your choices narrowed down to a few options, and then you can choose what you like based on other features and aesthetics. Also, someone recently mentioned going to a horse-saddle-maker and having them make custom leather bags, you might want to consider this, I don't know if it's a cheaper option or not.

u/arendonwrx · 2 pointsr/WRX

I used these in favor of the included t-taps and have had no issues thus far. Very secure connection, Posi-tap

u/pw721 · 2 pointsr/Hyundai

These fit great and should be plug and play for the low beams - H11 LEDs I used (amazon)

This is the adapter cable for the H1 depending on what brand you use - Amazon link

Fanless style H1 LEDs (I haven’t tried these so you may need to try them and see) - Amazon Link

u/funderbunk · 2 pointsr/vintagetraveltrailer

I would replace that with a fixed ac inlet designed for trailers, something like this - Amazon has a lot of different options for under $20, I'd bet you can find one that will work well with the hole you have. Just search for: rv ac inlet

u/dator · 1 pointr/camaro

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AO328FW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thats the exact one I purchased from amazon. Hope you enjoy the 5th gen :)

u/digiblur · 1 pointr/ATT

This is the one I bought but I see it is unavailable now. You can also buy an OBD2 extension cable and just cut it. Then pin out the ground and power pins each using a voltmeter.

16 Pin J1962 OBD2 OBDII Female Diagnostic Connector Cable Pigtail https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M2VMO4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-zF9ybXB4GZ8V

u/SixG · 1 pointr/askanelectrician

The following might get you to where you need to be. 16 awg is rated (per chart) at 10 ampacity.
(Not recommending product as I have no experience with or use of..)

https://www.amazon.com/Power-5-5mm-Barrel-Connector-Pigtail/dp/B01N21RV6G

Side note: the 18awg might work fine, especially if plug to supply distance is very short. 12awg is over kill. If you are going to make your own use 14.

u/MrSelfDestruct_XIII · 1 pointr/SciontC

Ah yeah, they probably sent you H11 bulbs, which is what the OEM is but the bulbs in those SpecD’s are H7 bulbs.

Try this, however try it at you’re own risk. A lot of these adapters are kinda cheaply made.

Edit: wait, that adapter might not work. It has H11 female and not male.

u/fassaction · 1 pointr/Honda

Had the same issue with my 06 civic. You can buy replacement parts on Amazon. Took about 5 minutes to replace. It’s just a piece that plugs into a port.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HRXNLIG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/youAreAllRetards · 1 pointr/klr650

By the keys, there is a black box with a wire coming out the back mounted to the fairing.

My 12v is flush-mount. Most of the ones I've seen are. I've never seen anything that big mounted there. I thought maybe it was a radar detector or something sexy.

But you appear to be right. It's a big unit kind of like this velcro'd on.

u/ross219uk · 1 pointr/ElectricScooters
u/djscsi · 1 pointr/Whatisthis

It doesn't plug directly into a battery. It's just a quick disconnect for low voltage (likely 12v) power. I don't know if there is a specific name for this type of connector but you can buy replacements like this one - just search for "polarized 12v plug" or similar. Although I would probably just rewire the whole thing with new connectors, if it was me.

u/-_Zer0day_- · 1 pointr/Honda

I suggest replacing the entire auxiliary input assembly. It sounds like something has broken with yours.


Here's a link to a DIY video for replacing the part. I suggest watching the video all the way through once. The guy really butchered his dashboard to remove the old assembly. Rather than trying to pry it right out, I would remove the silver cover from the gear selector (I'm assuming you have an automatic) and work your way up the dashboard.


Also, here's a link to the part you'll need on Amazon. There are other vendors who may sell it cheaper. The part number is "39112-SNA-A01."


If possible, visit your dealership. If you're still under warranty, they might be able to do it for you for free, or at least help you get a discount on the part.


Good luck and feel free to ask if you have any questions!

u/walkersm · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

AH sorry missed that. May have to make up your own for that. Not a big following on those. You can buy general kits taht you can modify as you need to. Just make sure and get one that has the correct plugs for your bulbs.

Somethign like:
https://www.amazon.com/Headlight-Relay-Wiring-Harness-Ceramic/dp/B00H5JFHR0

u/TheScutFarkisAffair · 1 pointr/Dashcam

Quick Splices work, but I personally have started using Posi-Taps. They have a small needle that pierces the insulation and tend to do less damage to the wire than quick splices. Either will work, though!

EDIT: Corrected my link.

https://smile.amazon.com/Posi-tap-Connectors-20-22-Gauge-Wire/dp/B004D0C2RC/ref=lp_2598779011_1_9?srs=2598779011&ie=UTF8&qid=1491314791&sr=8-9

u/sstik · 1 pointr/Parenting

Well, I don't know how many DC outlets you have or need, but this was AWESOME for us:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003RQBKLC/

We were able to plug in the GPS, DVD player, Ipad and Iphone

u/AwkwardCow · 1 pointr/waze

I've been thinking about buying one for a while. This one in particular:

http://smile.amazon.com/adapter-cigarette-lighter-splitter-MRS152UV/dp/B003RQBKLC/ref=cm_srch_res_rtr_2


But I'm not sure if it will be able to fit into the ashtray next to the cig lighter...really want it to feel like an integrated part of the car, not hanging out.

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/Miata
u/_heroinbob · 1 pointr/SVRiders

If you want the connectors for easy removal for say track days or something you could just go with quick connectors. Much less hassle to track down, and they're usually at local auto parts stores. For the front fairing bolt check out the[ Cowling Installation Parts Diagram] (http://www.motosport.com/motorcycle/oem-parts/suzuki/2008/sv650/cowling-installation-parts-%28sv650s~sa%29). I'm not sure exactly what screw/bolt you're referring to but it should be listed.

u/MrRollboto · -1 pointsr/DIY

I used some of this stuff: http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-86665-Black-Flexible-Conduit/dp/B003P9YOS2/fb23-20 it looks a LITTLE better.