Best automotive engine parts according to redditors
We found 376 Reddit comments discussing the best automotive engine parts. We ranked the 209 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 376 Reddit comments discussing the best automotive engine parts. We ranked the 209 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
I was talking about one of these.
Not the cheapest, but you can buy more plugs for ~$20.
My friend spotted this vehicle in a public parking lot in SF Bay Area.
Additional photos:
http://i.imgur.com/dfJXcn6.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/uulAUJc.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Qrbfmxx.jpg
Anybody any more information on what this is?
edit: A few more pics:
Not radar, but IbeoLux modules: Actually 2 there are 2 on each rear side looking sideways, two more on the rear bumper looking backwards, and two more under the front headlights looking forwards. http://i.imgur.com/ez0tlee.jpg
Also, there are two rectangular panels adjacent to the front radar. (Looks like a Delphi ESR 2.5 Radar ) http://i.imgur.com/703JyDp.jpg
There are Lidars on the right side mirror too. The molding looks perfect. http://i.imgur.com/ruKO5ee.jpg
2 Garmin GPS antennas on the back roof roof corners near the rear window. http://i.imgur.com/nx0VAQh.jpg
Lastly, there is a 'NOCO Genius GCP1' power port on the front bumper, adjacent to the 80/20 beam, which is probably used to provide power to whatever additional equipment they screw into the beam. http://i.imgur.com/SqCbiMF.jpg
My conclusion is that this is NOT a Tesla prototype, rather some small company who is working on self-driving/computer vision software. I'm not sure why they would choose a Model S for this though, except perhaps because they want to sell their software to Tesla, or perhaps they are a Tesla partner which has managed to get access to the control systems for steering, braking and speed.
A good use case for a 90 degree elbow Fumoto oil drain valve.
It's a block heater, something like this. Used to get some heat in your oil when you live where it gets really freakin' cold. Plug it into an outlet after parking, and the next morning you don't have to wait for your vehicle to warm up.
I have one on my Jeep ZJ. Comes in handy during Montana winters (and Fall, and sometimes Spring).
Get yourself one of these kits
Lisle 58850 Oil Pan Plug Rethread Kit
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000J19K06/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AKsiDb4EJ0XDD
Not everyone is nice enough to leave a note and I can't tell you how many times this kit has saved my ass
Laugh if you want, but I have been using these oil valves for years with no problems. Just connect a tube from the valve to a gallon jug and open it up. No cleaning to deal with. Still need to do the filter but these valves make the bulk of the clean up super easy.
In Yellowknife (and Canada generally), one commonly has one or more of these four things, each of which will have an electrical cord with a two-prong plug meant for your standard North American 110/120V AC socket.
Then, run all the cords to your car's grille. Get an extension cord that has 3 or 4 sockets, plug your cords into that extension cord, then plug the extension cord into an outlet on the outside of your house, or an outlet in your parking lot. If you want to be eco-friendly and not use any more electricity than you absolutely have to, put a timer on that outlet, and have the juice come on at, say, 4-5 am, 'cause 3 hours or so is usually enough to make your car's parts all nice and toasty.
certainly, Sir. https://www.amazon.com/Windshield-Car-Heater-Defroster-Cigarette/dp/B07JZ3NMWG/
Charging the battery while driving is pretty simple but took me a year to figure out how simple it was. Hopefully you are planning on using a trailer wire junction box. If so, run a 14ga wire from the junction box (that connects to your truck) to the positive side of the battery. Add something like this inline between the junction and the battery for safety. https://www.amazon.com/Fastronix-Automatic-Reset-Circuit-Breaker/dp/B07NSD3KYH
For shore power, I used one of these on the side of the camper which then runs to a 2 amp charger that charges the battery. In hindsight, I should of done a 4 or 5 amp charger.
https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GCP1-16-Inch-Integrated-Extension/dp/B009ANV81S
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Solar, do as other have said and get a controller.
If you want to get real lazy you could use a Mityvac to change the oil through your dipstick. If you gotta get underneath to change the oil filter then it kind of defeats the purpose. I have a top mounted oil filter so it works out well for me.
Check the oil, often. Minis are very finicky about oil levels and they consume a bit of oil too.
I personally found the stock dipstick to be a piece of shit, hard to read and hard to put back in, so I got the Cravenspeed dipstick and it is a champ. A bit pricey but very easy to read exactly what the oil level is.
Also, don't go by the OEM recommendation for oil change intervals as they are wayyy too long. 5,000 miles or so should be a good distance.
Are you using them for oil changes on your GTI? Why not get one of these. Put it right down the dipstick tube. No need for ramps, jacks, or stands.
Get yourself something like this and never look back. You take a small hose, afix it to the valve nipple and toss the other end in a milk jug and enjoy your effortlessly spotless oil change.
It replaces your drain plug, so you just put it on the next time you change your oil, which hopefully will be the LAST time you have to worry about cleanup at all.
Lisle socket with an impact is the best solution I know of.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-77080-Harmonic-Balancer-Socket/dp/B00RGNCV1U/ref=asc_df_B00RGNCV1U/
Years ago I couldn’t get one of these off with 1/2 impact but 3/4 with lots of air spun it right off.
I have one of these because of this clown I used to work with. He would constantly strip drain plugs. I only have 1 of the replacement plugs left and only worked with him for a few months.
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-58850-Oil-Plug-Rethread/dp/B000J19K06
If you do your own changes on a regular basis, it may be worth looking at a Fumoto valve; makes changes even faster/simpler.
Wonder how it works? More mass than a standard socket?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RGNCV1U/ref=psdc_553424_t1_B01CVAG1SG
I got one of these for the next time. Wonder if it's the same theory?
Thanks!, i didn't know they existed. Here's one on 120v.
This is 95% of what i was imagining, but requires installation. just chuck it somewhere and have the cord be as thin as possible so it can run thru the crack in the rubber of your closed car door (possible?).
Install a block heater
The rear piston need to be rotated as they're pushed in due to the parking brake mechanism. There's a [special tool] ( http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-28600-Disc-Brake-Piston/dp/B0002SQUFY) that makes it super easy but you can also use a big flat head screwdriver with much more difficulty.
So I just saw this on Amazon last night and ordered it immediately. No idea how well it works but it looks like it will save your sanity if it does.
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9221
Just change your filter too, it's not that expensive($5).
Our cars take 0W-20. Up to you what company you want to go with for oil. Mobil 1/Royal Purple/Motul/Amsoil to name a few.
If you change the oil and get a new filter, you'll need 5 to 6 quarts. Fill up with 5, then check and see if it's full, otherwise add more.
You can cheat and install a Fumoto oil drain valve...next time you do your oil change it'll be a hell of a lot easier.
I have used Mobil 0W-20 in my 2018 for the last two oil changes. I've poured over online threads for all types of Subarus, and found that for the filter it's best to stick to OEM (blue is good, black is better but hard to find). This Fumoto drain plug also makes the process so much easier.
I must have missed that generation, I don't notice either issue with my '05 Legacy GT. Also getting one of these has made oil changes mess free https://www.amazon.com/Fumoto-F-105-Engine-Drain-Valve/dp/B003VCELCW/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1494394339&sr=1-1&keywords=fumoto+f-105
Maybe on the impact. I used their 3/4 wrench on mine. My clapped out 1/2 inch pneumatic didn't cut it. Lisle makes a special socket that would probably work with that one.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RGNCV1U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sNmSCb9RNCJ71
Have you checked to see if there is fuel getting to the carb? There probably is a vacuum fuel valve between the fuel filter and the carb, bolted to the frame. If the hose is cracked or torn, or the valve is bad, the carb won't get enough, or any, fuel. Try bypassing it and try starting it then.
I had this exact issue, though mine would start and idle just fine, but die after about a minute on throttle. Got a new carb, same issue. Found I had a torn vacuum hose at that fuel valve. I replaced the hose, and it ran just fine. For a little while. It would die after a few more minutes. I bypassed the valve, and it ran properly all day. So I checked the valve by sucking on the vac hose and seeing how much fuel was flowing out of the fuel line to the carb, and found it was just a trickle.
​
A replacement is about 6 dollars, and at least is an easy thing to check before you order.
​
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E7AKKCM/
Engine block heater then? Or a garage?
https://www.amazon.com/Ford-Racing-M9424P46-Intake-Manifold/dp/B000CNHT0E
I went with this one when mine failed, can't be happier.
I would suggest getting a Fumoto drain valve if you can get your plug out. Then you'll never have to worry about it again!
I believe Fumoto is the one that the s2000 car club all uses. You'll have to find it by car type. https://www.amazon.com/Fumoto-F-106-Engine-Drain-Valve/dp/B003OXUPOQ
I used to use a Kat's heater on my Land Rover oil pan, and it worked great on sub zero mornings.
I bought the F-108N, with the longer stem, for my '16 Outback. You've got less clearance but I don't think the stem would be an issue unless you're offroading. Here's mine which is still probably 1 or 2" above the plastic skid plate. Stem lets me attach a tube and drain straight into an empty oil container.
They offer a plastic locking clip which I installed as well as a safeguard. Install was easy using a crow's foot and torque wrench to spec, and I used the provided fiber washer.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VCB9WC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I bought this to make my oil changes easier. Drain your oil, replace the drain plug with this, make sure you get a crush washer from subaru and rent a torque wrench from auto zone, or something.
You'll be able to change your oil without any tools, save for a oil filter wrench. You'll have zero mess oil changes, though.
I did spraypaint them with a metallic gold (they were black). I put an old jack in there to keep paint from seeping into the input itself. The power input was on Amazon and the paint job definitely adds a little steampunk/vintage vibe, since it didn't coat the rubber it looks kind of tarnished.
I think I might understand you... would something like this do what you are envisioning?
https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GCP1-125V-Integrated-Extension/dp/B009ANV81S
There are several known problems with the N14 engine (the engine in your MINI), some of which include:
Overconsumption of oil- MINI claims up to 1qt/750 miles
Timing chain tensioner failing - there is currently a recall/lawsuit for this. It is related to the oil consumption issue.
Thermostat failure - replaced by a newly engineered unit that are said to be better
Water pump failure - same as above
Auxiliary water pump failure - usually on earlier N14s
Coolant take failure - on earlier N14s and is caused by the heat generated by the turbo and the proximity of the coolant tank
Hood scoop insert melting - same as above
Down pipe CAT failure - possibly due to oil consumption issue
Turbo oil line failure - can be replaced by the better Detroit tuned version.
Carbon buildup on intake valves - this is due to a poor BMW design. Can cause abnormal engine wear and lack of power if not maintained.
Door actuator failure - caused by water getting inside on the passenger foot well.
I personally had an N14 JCW for only 1 year and experienced most of these issues. The semi good news is your car has most likely experienced these problems, as the N14 gremlins start to show up around 50-70k. Did you get service records?
In addition to keeping an eye on your fluids weekly, I would also check with MINI to see if there are any outstanding recalls for your vehicle. As long as the repairs have been made, and you do your part to make sure they don't happen again, it should be a relatively good relationship!
Lastly, I highly encourage you to purchase the Cravenspeed oil dipstick. It is $75 shipped on Amazon and takes the guesswork out of reading your oil levels, which can be quite difficult to read. Also, check out the forums like motoring alliance and North American Motoring, they have a lot of info about your MINI. Lastly, check out notable vendors for awesome upgrades/mods for your MINI. Welcome to the family!
MINI Cooper S Dipstick Upgrade (Hardtop 2007-2014) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CQD4CM6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_E71vxbZCWSWV6
Socket set - look at Sears sales around father's day (now!) and get them yourself or pick a set for your registry. They're a great value and I love the ones with cases (i got this one for around $150 near christmas)
Mower: look for a Honda commercial model on craigslist. The tanks of the mower world. Always start on first pull; uses a car spark plug. A great workout while you mow - jog behind it!
These aren't wedding registry items ... I know ... but I'd push people to get you gift cards so you can browse sales. Markups on tools can be bad compared to what things can be 'had' for.
Do you change your own oil? Check this out (I've had mine 5 years and LOVE it) https://www.amazon.com/Hydro-Turf-Oil-Extractor-6-Liter-OIL01/dp/B000GU0MMU I use mine on my car and wife's car for oil, diff, trans fluid and also my lawn mower. If you have a truck that takes more than that capacity move up in size to a Mityvac
https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-Genius-GCP1-Black-125V/dp/B009ANV81S/ref=pd_bxgy_200_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=X6SE3S6B3876Q0A3TDS0
Fumoto F-105 Engine Oil Drain Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VCELCW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MhygAbY3BCR6Z
I use fumoto Valves in every vehicle that I perform regular maintenance on. If you do DIY oil changes it makes it 10x easier and less mess. I have more than 100k on one of them with no problems. Depends on pan size and style tho. All of my applications have a larger cross member or other structure that is atleast an inch lower than the bottom of the pan.
> however it’s not always possible to warm up, especially when it gets to -35 etc. nothing warms up in that.
Hot Pad Heater ($30.44 USD) + Engine Block Heater ($27.95 USD)
A119 is very popular, goodluck with it, v2 is more stable than v1.
just get the appropriate one of these. Makes oil changes take seconds and no dirty hands. Pro tip: add in some plastic tubing and just tuck that shit away and you don’t even need to crawl under your car anymore. They’re dope.
Get one of these and replace the drain plug. No mistaking it. And no fumbling for the correct size wrench or socket. And no stripping threads.
Use this unit instead. Shorter, and you don't need the hose nipple.
Well, I'd say everyone has done a fine job at covering the personal type advice. Lot of great advice on how to succeed and advance. I'm more of a hardware guy, so lets talk tools.
I love tools and so do you, whether you know it yet or not. The shop I worked at only had 3 mechanics plus a counter guy. Obviously we didn't have lube techs, tire techs, mechanical techs, etc... we just took whatever came in, in whatever order it came in. So even split between lube and repairs by a huge margin, my most valuable tool was my cart
My bay was always neater, and I was always faster because I had my red cart with all the tools I needed for lube and tire jobs super organized on it. So for oil changes and tire rotations I didn't even go to my toolbox, I just pushed my cart over and got it done. For any other work, I just went one time to my toolbox, got everything I would need for a job, put it on the cart with my lube tools, then take it all in one trip.
As long as you
you will never lose a tool.
On my cart, I screwed down a magnetic strip on the top shelf, and kept the 3/8" drive sockets for common oil pan plugs on one end, and the impact sockets for common lug nuts on the other. Also on top I had a Philips and flathead screwdriver, a 3/8" ratchet, a few different length extensions, a 1/4" ratchet with a 10mm attached, a flashlight, a tire gauge, my filter wrench, a super-cheap code reader, and one of these. It looks silly, and sounds stupid, and your coworkers will laugh at it, but your hands stay so much cleaner.
On the middle shelf, I had a massive pile of clean grease rags, and a 1/2 gallon pump bottle of hand scrub.
On the bottom shelf was a small cardboard box to throw dirty rags in until I had a chance to dump them in the can, my impact gun, a couple impact extensions, and a tire inflator.
Hanging on the side I had two sets of rubber-coated gloves. One "dirty" and one "clean". One set was for wearing outside the car to keep shit off my hands. The other set was to put on when I needed to touch something inside the car, to keep the shit that did get on my hands, off the upholstery.
Among the thousands of dollars of tools in my 7 foot high tool chest, what I've described above probably accounts for 75% of my daily tool usage, and more like 99% of my oil/tire job tool usage. Set yourself up like that, and don't even worry about a tool bag.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-77080-Harmonic-Balancer-Socket/dp/B00RGNCV1U
Works great.
The most popular is the Cravenspeed replacement dipstick. They're kind of expensive though, about $75. I think I got mine off of eBay for like $50, but it's still kind of a lot for a dipstick. It's advertised for the Hardtops, but I believe the Countrymans have the same engine, so it should work fine.
https://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Dipstick-Upgrade-Hardtop-2007-2014/dp/B00CQD4CM6
They make a Gen1 version as well, they're slightly different, so make sure you don't buy a Gen1 dipstick by accident.
3/4" impact wrenches are $100 at harbor freight. I know a few guys who have one with a 19mm socket just for crank pulleys. But now special sockets exist that let me take Honda crank bolts off with my crusty old IR 1/2" impact gun.
BTW I just linked the first one I found, there are a few different ones and even some DIY sockets.
Rethread kit is about $100, if it will work on your car. Compare that to price of new oil pan and installing it yourself plus any tools that may be required that you don't have.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-58850-Oil-Plug-Rethread/dp/B000J19K06
The proper thing to do would be to replace the oil pan. You got to know what you're doing to use that repair tool, or it's still gone leak.
I didn't get a working link to the FB page on your progress, but just let me know your TNTTT account handle and I'll pop over there to look. One other thing - of the several 120V inlets out there, this one is the best behaved so far. The only caveat is that you'll have to trim the idiot-proofing rubber nub off your extension cord receptacles.
If you really wanna simplify the process get the one with the short nipple and buy the tube that goes with it. You can run this straight to the container and never have to deal with an oil pan
Fumoto F108S FS-Series Drain Valve with Short Nippple with Lever Clip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004FFHH0M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GJUGDbSSHZSCT
Fumoto F-106N Engine Oil Drain Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003T7XUE4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LhsdzbWY9T49J
This makes things extremely easy to change. Just have a hose and open it up and goes right into your pan.
FYI, one of these gives you the same function in a better design.
http://www.amazon.com/Fumoto-F-106N-Engine-Drain-Valve/dp/B003T7XUE4
Also this thing
Lol. It got you good. Recommend one of these. Loosen the drain plug 2 turns and snap this handy tool on before loosening further.
OTC (5911) Drain Plug Pro Magnetic Drain Plug Remover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0054WI7CW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yTI4Cb3T9Z3FD
here it is
Turbosmart TS-0203-1061 Blow-Off... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IGWW5UC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Jesus, get one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Fumoto-F-106N-Engine-Drain-Valve/dp/B003T7XUE4
Shit will change your life.
As a mechanic at the shop or as a diy'er? As a mechanic, you can use https://www.amazon.com/OTC-5911-Drain-Magnetic-Remover/dp/B0054WI7CW and get no oil on yourself. As a diy'er, you can install an oil drain valve system and change oil easily. My favorite ones are by Stahlbus or fumoto.
I suggest a block heater like this.
Kat's 24150 150 Watt 4"x 5" Universal Hot Pad Heater https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I8TQD6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VPSyCb9VMC6PP
Here you go.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VCB9WC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_FY7Ezb7VY64VB
For basic 15 amp power, I run something similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GCP1-125V-Integrated-Extension/dp/B009ANV81S/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1537219599&sr=1-1&keywords=15+amp+power+inlet
I plan on someday, maybe, running a 30 or 50 amp service through the wall.
>I should probably do my own oil change, now because it will save me any money (it will actually cost more) but just so that I know what's going on.
If you make a habit of doing your own oil changes, replace oil drain plug with a valve like this one, because fuck oil pans.
Here ya go https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GBlD0WrFMKE
https://www.amazon.com/Kats-24150-Watt-Universal-Heater/dp/B000I8TQD6
I would check the fuel petcock and the vacuum line that goes to it. The TaoTao I just bought used, had a similar issue and there was a vacuum leak in the line that goes from the intake to the petcock. Also, check that vacuum line for fuel as that is a sign that the diaphragm in the petcock has failed.
Aluminium oil pan threads strip out easy if over torqued. For what ever reason I've found Honda pans do it easier than most. Do you happen to have a picture of the drain hole? It could be repaired with a tool like this which works really good if you have the room. You may have to take it off the car to get enough room. At that point it may just me better to replace it. When looking at the cost of parts you need to keep in mind that the shop will get the part cheaper than you can most of the time then mark it up. If they go dealer it will be pricey but it's a quality part. Those pans can be in and out under an hour. Not hard to do at all. just need rtv for the gasket, a 10mm, i think a 17mm, and a torque wrench.
My work already has these in cars for our work in cold weather. They are usually plugged into a wall outlet but I've seen some people have ones that plug into the car. Some google searching shows similar stuff with timers too, so I'm not sure what would be novel about such a proposed patent.
If you have access to an impact this socket will take the crank pulley bolt right off. I've done about a dozen timing belt jobs with it and it works perfectly every time.
This little guy will make your life a lot easier then.
like this
the lisle honda socket fits our engines too. same concept as welding more mass on.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-77080-Harmonic-Balancer-Socket/dp/B00RGNCV1U
Ok so I am looking at these items
[https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CMHIR4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A15DTMM40CG6VX](Green Air)
and
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IGWW5UC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A26YKA1AMO7VO
Like other people said it is all in your owners manual. But if you are going to at least be changing your own oil, I highly recommend getting the fumoto valve it has made changing the oil quick, and super clean since I got it!!! It is a must buy.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ANV81S
For some cars a simple clamp won't work - there's a special brake tool to reset the calipers. It's not overly expensive but does add to the cost.
I bought this one for my VW Jetta. They make cheaper cubes that supposedly work, but everything I read said if you don't want to fight with it just spring for a decent specialty tool.
All this being said, if you are not at all mechanically inclined and/or uncomfortable doing brakes don't force it. After all, brakes are the single most important "safety feature" on your car. This doesn't mean you have to pay outrageous labor prices though - odds are you have a friend/family member who will do it for a case of beer.
I just replaced my 06 CVPI. I replaced with factory (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000CNHT0E?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title) and like it better than the dorman. Dorman/aftermarket fitting is weird (it works, but some bolts are 'tight' threading in) and the flash/roughness leftover from the plastic casting is rather nasty. It's a part you'll only replace once, I'd stick with oem. Ive done 30+ of these (I'm a mechanic.)
The fuel filter had never been replaced and I could see visible dirt in it. I'll just get a new one and clamps (something like this https://www.amazon.com/Wings-Inner-Colorful-Motorcycle-Performance/dp/B012MBE460/ seems right?)
For the vacuuum petcock something like https://www.amazon.com/VACUUM-PETCOCK-ROKETA-CHINESE-SCOOTER/dp/B00E7AKKCM would be good? I didn't see anything to suggest it was broken but if it is known to break and cheap to replace may as well do it and have a more reliable bike.
Jesus. That's terrible. Don't go to a dealer.
https://www.amazon.com/Subaru-15208AA15A-Oil-Filter/dp/B00I798FIA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484523047&sr=8-1&keywords=crosstrek+oil+filter
Filter : 8.50
https://www.amazon.com/Fumoto-F-106N-Engine-Drain-Valve/dp/B003T7XUE4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484523075&sr=8-1&keywords=fumoto+valve
Fumoto 25 bucks so you have a clean easy drain for when you keep doing it in the future.
https://www.amazon.com/Pennzoil-550038221-Platinum-5W-30-Synthetic/dp/B00ELHNM3K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484523115&sr=8-3&keywords=pennzoil+ultra+platinum+5w30
35 for pennzoil oil thats way better than whatever generic shit theyre pumping into your car.
So its 44 bucks for the oil and the filter for premium oil. 70 with the sweet valve that will make it a snap for the rest of your life.
Also, if you're considering paying 79 for a cabin air filter FYI you can get one for 12 bucks on amazon and pop out your glove box in 3 minutes and do it yourself.
Have you tested the antifreeze? Antifreeze that has been left in an engine for a long time without being changed, or had water added to bring it out of the 50-50 mix can degrade its properties. There are cheap coolant testers you can get at autoparts stores or similar area will sell them. They let you take a sample of the coolant and the float will tell you its rating. -15 is cold, if the antifreeze isn't doing it's job and freezes it can crack the block/heads and cause all kinds of trouble. Hopefully it won't be this but worth checking.
I would see if you can get a engine block warmer:
https://www.amazon.com/Zerostart-310-0057-Engine-Block-Heater/dp/B000NM2KNA
or something similar to heat the block to see if it helps.
Alternative things could be IAT sensor or any similar temperature sensor, the engine relies on this when starting to properly gauge the fuel mixture in the engine and if a temp sensor is sending out funky information it can also cause this.
Dude, idk if you drive German or not but I have a VW and got sick of replacing the crush washer ever 3 times so found this: https://www.amazon.com/Fumoto-F-106N-Engine-Drain-Valve/dp/B003T7XUE4
Been using it for 5 years now, no issues at all!
i've never worked on a car before; i'm going to look for some quotes throughout the county over this weekend, and if i can't find anything under $1000 i'll pick this up and install it.
Would recommend getting that plug mounted up into the lower grille or bumper before the winter hits, otherwise it's going to be a corroded mess. NOCO is a nice option, it's the one I have.
I have a 2015 Touring. I added 30% tint on the front (which nicely matches the rear privacy glass), OEM window deflectors, Rokblokz mudflaps, JBR Rear sway bar and brackets (to reduce body roll in cornering), Fumoto Oil Valve - F-106N(for easier oil changes), McGard Spline Drive Lugs, and changed my wheels to Rays RE30s 18x7.5 +50 with Yokohama YK740 GTX 235 /60 R18 tires.
All these mods were easy to install, except for the RSB. That took a bit of time, but the install instructions are detailed and straight forward.
Happy modding!
Or?
http://www.amazon.com/OTC-Drain-Plug-Magnetic-Remover/dp/B0054WI7CW
This is what you're looking for. As /u/Frink_the_tink said, this is the tool you need. Just pluck in onto a 3/8" ratchet, and screw it!
I don't want hot oil, because I use one of these: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JFJM14/ which is made from plastic and I don't want the hot oil melting the tubing and holding chamber. I just fire up the car long enough for the oil to be fluid and to get all the junk in the bottom of the sump into suspension so it can be sucked outl
No none at all. It's honestly the perfect amount of noise. Loud enough for me when I want it, but quiet when I want it quiet.
The bov I have is www.amazon.com/Turbosmart-TS-0203-1061-Blow-Off-Valve/dp/B00IGWW5UC
Very easy install. Placement of BOV is behind front right wheel.
Turbosmart TS-0203-1061 Blow-Off... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IGWW5UC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
The dual port shortie is the 100% recirculating BOV. There is no ventilation into the atmosphere so you will not get the “pshhhh” sound when you close the throttle.
Can you string an extension cord to your card?
And here's a heated seat pad
They make cab heaters. I have one like this in one of my classics.
I've never seen a head bolt heater that actually gets the engine warm enough to get the heater going more quickly when it's legitimately cold out. I prefer an engine preheater like this (installs between the rad hoses and circulates as it heats), or an auto start.
There are multiple sizes available on Amazon, here's one example . Just stick on the oil pan, and maybe one under your battery.
Get one of these guys:
https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-7400-Liter-Fluid-Evacuator/dp/B000JFJM14/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1457637212&sr=8-3&keywords=oil+vacuum+extractor
Where are you seeing $250? CJ has it for $170, and its $157 on amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/Turbosmart-TS-0203-1061-Blow-Off-Valve/dp/B00IGWW5UC/
If you're riding in cold/chilly weather, consider a heating pad on the case/oil pan like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Kats-24150-Watt-Universal-Heater/dp/B000I8TQD6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1457748904&sr=8-4&keywords=katz+pad
It's a DIY version of this...
http://www.amazon.com/Fumoto-F-106N-Engine-Drain-Valve/dp/B003T7XUE4
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/Fumoto-F108S-Drain-Valve-Nippple/dp/B004FFHH0M&ved=2ahUKEwjRmaPTsPXdAhWRr1kKHR9DAwkQFjAAegQIARAB&usg=AOvVaw2JfhwxL-qMeQ5p6lHjMDPa
I just changed the oil in my '16 Crosstrek. This makes it much easier.
You could take a route similar to mine, you can view my trip log here:
Also, for your water tanks I would suggest maybe getting a heating pad or two? They are designed to heat large tanks or in my case, I use it to heat my oil pan.
Hot Pads
They make magnetic ones you can just stick on your oil pan and plug it in. https://www.amazon.com/Kats-24150-Watt-Universal-Heater/dp/B000I8TQD6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1549848405&sr=8-2&keywords=magnet+block+heater
I mean, this is 20 bucks and keeps your hands clean.
Oh thanks for the tip! How would you clip it on?
Would this work for heat?
Kat's 24150 150 Watt 4"x 5" Universal Hot Pad Heater https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I8TQD6/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_9O6Hub1RH35ZH
Well you say you warm the engine up for 10mins, but that's only the engine, your trans will still be 90% cold (all but little bit of conductive heat from the engine). Do you happen to have a garage? You could get a transmission pan heater (might as well get an oil pan heater too) then you can just set one of those wall timer things, just wire them up so the cords are on the driver's side, and hopefully you have an outlet on the driver's side, then you can just plug them in when you get home and unplug them before you leave. I'd set the timer 2 hours before you leave, and then you could start your truck like 5 minutes before you leave (just so the oil has enough time to go through everything, but the block should be warm anyways, just an extra safety measure i guess). I'd highly recommend doing it.
Heater
Mechanical Timer
OTC (5911) Drain Plug Pro Magnetic Drain Plug Remover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0054WI7CW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_STkUCb5M20XPB I just found one this is what I was talking about
I think they are 14x22.3 but other sizes might work okay. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K3B595M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PxEVybFFTKRX2
Like PatAunces said, you're battery is probably dead. Hopefully it's not dead dead.
If you have accesses to an outlet here are a couple of items that will make future cold starts easier:
Battery Thermal Wrap
Universal Hot Pad Heater
You could also look into picking up a battery charger that supports trickle charges and leave it on your battery over night.
I have an old SUV that sits outside and only gets driven every other month. I disconnect the battery when I park it. If I don't the battery is dead in less than a week.
Mityvac 7400 7.3 Liter Fluid Evacuator https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JFJM14/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_2xALzbMPCMQSV
It appears the one I used and the one you're talking about are the same one. Mine was new so no issues with leaking, yet.
Fumoto F-106 Engine Oil Drain Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003OXUPOQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_9lgkybAPEY6FW
Thank me later
Yeah, I see that the big pain in the ass would be getting the skidplate off, but after the first oil change, I'll be installing a Fumoto valve to make draining oil easier (http://www.amazon.com/Fumoto-F-105-Engine-Drain-Valve/dp/B003VCELCW), hopefully making the process a bit smoother.
So in my 06 LBZ I moved from conventional oil to a synthetic blend (T5) then to a full synthetic (Shell Rotella T6) at my last oil change. I also purchased a fumoto valve, that replaces your drain plug at the bottom of the oil pan, and has a ball valve in it, so you can hook up a hose, and then open the valve and cleanly drain your oil into a catch pan, or jugs or whatever your using. Now that I'm at 10k mile intervals with the T6 and I don't daily drive my Duramax anymore, I haven't had to do an oil change yet, but will be doing one at the end of the summer. Lots of oil threads on duramaxforum.com as well.
I have one for my Outback, and I'm never looking back to using a normal screw. Different models also have different styles (long tip, etc), so you're bound to find something that will still have adequate clearance even for off-roading. I personally use the F-108N, which has a long tip, and it still tucks away inside the factory skid plate.
As for not being able to drain completely...I'd say it depends. My OB has the drain hole facing the rear-ish of the car, and I have my car on ramps during oil changes, so gravity kinda does the work of clearing out that last little bit for me.
There are easier ways to achieve this...
I suppose that a Fumoto oil valve would have to be next!
My first oil change I went 5w30 Synth, ont he next change I have some 10w40 synth for the hotter South Florida Summer Temps. will probably go 5w30 in winter.
A Fumoto valve would be a worthwhile investment, imo: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VCELCW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
For the oil and filter, I'd recommend going to the closest Jap Four dealer and get your manufacturer, or a similar manufacturer's 10w40 for 4 strokes, then go to the parts department and tell them you need a filter for your exact bike; almost guaranteed they have some in stock.
Gloves - if you go to the pharmacy section in walmart or a similar store, you can get 100 gloves for under $10. You'll pretty much never have to buy them again.
Here's a set of metal crush washers that are actually cheaper per washer ($.89 vs $.793 each). Again, get a bunch right away, and then you don't have to worry about it for a while.
Torque wrench - some people are recommending against that one, or even using one in general. There's nothing wrong with torquing an oil drain bolt, it's a little excessive, but you can't do anything wrong if you torque it to spec. That might not be the most accurate torque wrench in the world, but unless you're taking apart the motor, it'll be close enough for what you use it for. Plus by buying one now, you'll have it for future use, obviously it's not like it's only applicable for this one specific job.
Here it is. This is the most widely recommended manifold because it is an OEM equivalent and is from what I know, the only one that will not lose you horsepower. I certainly feel a difference coming from the Dorman.
Note I did this on a 2007, so make sure the fitment is correct for your vehicle first.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CNHT0E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Let me know if you have any questions at all. I also have photos from my breakdown. Several lessons learned on my end. Some big ones were:
I actually just watched the oil change video from Jake TheGardenSnake where he links the crush washers he used for his 2016 FZ07. Thanks for the help!
Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wwAQx7WCObM
Crush Washers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K3B595M/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=jakesnake-20&linkId=c4a1fcd63fb9b300320c5cad4b0c189c
Don't go to cheap oil change places. When I was younger, I use to and noticed that twice the oil wasn't changed. It was one of the things that got me into wrenching. Also this:
http://jalopnik.com/lazy-idiots-at-lube-shop-cut-hole-in-audi-s4s-aero-pan-1748394648
Also, look into buying one of these if you have a dipstick: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JFJM14/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_3?pf_rd_p=1944687662&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000GU0MMU&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=09M1YW8MNVFRKGB311H7
You literally just put the hose down the dipstick and pump it a couple of times. And if you have a top mounted filter, you don't even have to jack up the car.
Suck the oil out of the dipstick tube: http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B000JFJM14/
Particularly handy if your oil filter is also accessed from the top - no need to jack the car up at all.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JZ3NMWG/
I used the F-108N on my '18, and it works great... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VCB9WC
Two inexpensive but totally worthwhile upgrades:
Bring a can of starting fluid. Powerstrokes hate the cold, even with fully functional glowplugs. If(when) you end up using it, remove the air filter cover and only give the engine a little sniff so the glowplugs don't cause a backfire.
Try to park near an outlet and plug in the block heater every night. Consider getting a magnetic pan heater and putting it on the bottom of your fuel tank.