(Part 2) Best automotive gauges & accessories according to redditors
We found 312 Reddit comments discussing the best automotive gauges & accessories. We ranked the 155 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
The big engine performance step up from where you are at now is a pair of Mikuni VM series smoothbore carbs which last I heard are available in kit form for that bike, combined with a good set of pipes.
https://www.dimecitycycles.com/the-coveted-mikuni-vm30-carburetor-complete-kit-for-honda-cb-cl-350-360s.html
Read the fine print as there's another variant of this same kit for some of the 360s.
On pipes, I'm a big fan of adapting certain generic supertrapp mufflers meant for small race cars and go karts to our bikes because you can tune the airflow at the pipe as well as at the carb. Start here:
https://www.summitracing.com/search/Brand/SuperTrapp/Part-Type/Mufflers
Don't order anything from there until you have a good 2 into 1 header pipe already because you need to know the outlet diameter you'll end up with on the other end of a 2 into 1 merge. Yes, you want a two into one pipe for sure.
If you really truly know shit want to do it right and get it dialed in exactly, when you build the pipe set up drill a hole just downstream of the merge point and cap it with a nut of the correct size the hold the sensor for this critter:
https://www.amazon.com/AEM-30-0300-Wideband-Sensor-Controller/dp/B0184TSI84/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549311401&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=air+fuel+gauge&dpPl=1&dpID=41e9oHQ4hQL&ref=plSrch
This bad boy will tell you your exact fuel-air mixture and completely eliminate guesswork in carb and pipe tuning. The only problem is, permanently mounting it is a bitch because you cannot shorten any of the cables between that Bosch sensor and the gauge, and they come long enough for a car. Oops. That's okay, you really only need it during the tuning phase. Once you're done take it off and screw a bolt into the nut you've welded into the exhaust that's the same thread pitch as the Bosch exhaust gas sensor.
These things completely revolutionized carb tuning and I did not know about them when I wrote this:
http://www.motorbikemondays.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/CafeRacerGuide-1.pdf
On suspension, rims and handling issues I'm going to refer you to that document. I'll be happy to answer questions.
Short form, you could do a hell of a lot and still keep it vintage-looking by using forks from a bigger bike of approximately the same era and technology, but also make sure those bigger forks can take cartridge emulator inserts internally. Add some decent rear shocks as well, make sure the swingarm pivot bushings are in good shape, put aluminum hoop over spoke rims fore and aft and you'll have something that can be tossed hard into an extremely twisty road and even beat some guy on a modern sport bike who can't use all his horsepower cuz it's too twisty. You'll have one big advantage if that thing is built up right: you'll be able to flop it in and out of corners faster because you'll have less gyroscopic effect off of light thin rims.
Despite the hit or miss reviews, this thing has been basically spot on when I would compare my theoretical wheel speed based on rpm and the reported gps speed at the time. It never seemed to wander and only over reported by ~2-300rpm at the absolute highest rpms.
Of course, it has settings for a whole range of 2-4 stroke engines with various cylinder amounts.
If the motor hadn't gone bang, I could record it at idle (14-1500 rpm) with my pixel 3's 1/8 speed slowmo and listen for the 3.125 pops of the exhaust just to be sure on the low end that it's accurate.
The motor is/was a higher end zeda 80 which has been worked over by zedamotorsports to help bring out another 1-2hp. Where most low end kits are making 2hp on a great day, this thing makes 3-4hp on its worst (2-2.5 if your on the factory pipe and factory carb tuning). I quickly had to replace the shitty rag joint for a CNC aluminum adapter that would clamp onto the hub after throwing on an mz65 expansion chamber. Then I had to replace the wheel when I accidentally clutch dumped rolling from a stop light (yay potholes) and spun the adapter breaking a few spokes/bending the fuck out of the wheel.
After throwing on a 21mm PHBG carb, wide bore intake and a CNC aluminum head it had some fairly impressive grunt for such a small motor. Zedamotorsports offers a lower end motor that is basically the same thing as the one I blew up for half the price that I'll be buying next paycheck if the bottom end is completely fried on my current one.
Here is a parts list for those interested
Nema 5-15r To C14
Voltmeter Analog Panel Meter
Shrink Tubing
32GB MicroSD
Raspberry Pi 3 + Power Supply
MCP4725 Breakout Board
TCA9548 I2C Multiplexer
RJ45 Extender
22AWG Wire
Plastic 2U Box
If it lets out more air than it puts it, the machine is defective.
Though there is a kernel of truth to what they say. The gauges on gas station air pumps tend to be really inaccurate, so you should always check the pressure with your own tire gauge. Good ones are less than $10. Even the $3 pencil gauges are good enough to get you within a few psi of the recommended rating (which is printed on a sticker on your door jamb).
Most multimeters have a current setting, the part that says "mA" or just "A". Pretty sure even the ancient analog boxy-looking ones have it. When measuring current you have to be in series with the flow of electricity (as opposed to in parallel for voltage), which is why you need to break the wire.
The less intrusive way would be to pick up something like this, and solder jacks to the input and output side which is basically what Truetone have done.
Granted, you're obviously paying extra for build quality and whatnot , but I think $20 or so is the most I'd pay for something like this.
This one:
https://www.amazon.com/Joes-Racing-32485-Quick-Inflator/dp/B00B9FJMAO/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1469851117&sr=8-6&keywords=joe%27s+racing+tire
It's a little pricey at ~$60, but it's the last one you'll ever need. If you're like me and you're used to the cheap "pen" types, this one will blow your mind. Having the controlled fill and blow-off inline on the unit is super nice too.
Yeah might be a bum meter then.
You can get something super cheap just to keep a better eye on things.
http://www.amazon.com/Zeltauto-Cigarette-Lighter-Digital-Voltmeter/dp/B00VL9JZ0K
Something like this (amazon link) would work in theory. Just needs power, it gets your speed via GPS (which will be more accurate than your 40 y/o speedometer).
The problem I think you're going to run in to, unless you have a curved window Super, is bugs have like an inch of dash ledge and a nearly perpendicular flat windshield. So no place to set it and a harder angle to shine it on.
Since you can't easily measure current without being 'inline' with the circuit (hard to do with most multi-meters since they typically won't pass a very usable level of amperage), I would recommend testing the voltage on the battery when it is disconnected, then measure again when connected to the boat, if the voltage drops a few decimals then there is current draw.
They do make inductive type ammeter that allow clamping over a wire, this could be helpful if the current draw is enough to register, here are a couple for cheap:
http://www.amazon.com/0-10A-Rectangle-Analog-Panel-Ammeter/dp/B0050MQK16/ref=sr_1_5?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1404957457&sr=1-5&keywords=ammeter
http://www.amazon.com/85C1-A-Analog-Current-Panel-Ammeter/dp/B0052C9MMI/ref=sr_1_9?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1404957457&sr=1-9&keywords=ammeter
Get a non-invasive ac current sensor split core transformer. Split core means you just clamp it on the power cable. It's less than $10 and you never have to touch exposed wires. Never used it though so I can't say much about it. However, I do use a DROK digital multimeter ac voltage that uses those rings. It's amazing. There's one that has a serial port communication function. Been wanting to try it but don't have the time. It's like $20.
https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Digital-Multimeter-Voltmeter-Ammeter/dp/B015PRF04I/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1525970299&sr=8-6&keywords=ac%2Bvoltage%2Bmeter%2Bdisplay&th=1
If you own an air compressor, this thing is the tits: Link
It's a very accurate tire pressure gauge, but the best part: this one is built into a tire filler that you hook up to your air compressor, so you can see the pressure without swapping between your filler and your gauge. Also, it has a button under the gauge that lets you bleed air. Pretty handy. (especially if you're at the track a lot)
$60. Worth every penny. If you just need a good gauge but don't care about it being fused with a filler, just get their regular gauge. It's like $21. (I have one of those too and it's great)
Yeah that looks busted as shit.
Have you ever used it? Is it possible you cranked the PSI knob in the wrong direction and it is actually registering like 80 PSI right now?
You might be able to open it up and just move the needle to the other side of the stopper, but I would personally never trust the reading ever again after doing that.
Fortunately a new low pressure gauge [costs like $10] (https://www.amazon.com/Regulator-Gauge-0-60-Gauge-Right/dp/B0064OFFLK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522594868&sr=8-3&keywords=CO2+low+pressure+gauge) and takes 2 minutes to install. I'd just replace it.
I'm grabbing something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0051E8ONA
Also I just switch batts when I notice a loss in vapor production, i think I over think it and just switch batts all the time, I lug a charger around with me all the time so I just switch batts all the time.
I was measuring my batts when I switch em an was generally just switching them around 3.9 generally...
Although not nearly as nice (but much cheaper) I believe this would also get the job done.
If the little "flags" still exist and are still welded onto the pins that exit the compressor, then get new heavy duty fast-on connectors for the wire and push the fast-on onto the flag.
If the flags are gone, get rescue terminals like this:
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Qwik-Products-QT2810-3-Terminal-Repair-Lugs-Bag-10-AWG-2-ft-Leads-w-Nut?gclid=Cj0KCQjwpavpBRDQARIsAPfTwixfDxNIXocFiCotNK0ZcfvFb-J5uviFr9kmSy7qe7TNVXjNGe6BRK8aAnBKEALw_wcB
or this:
https://www.amazon.com/Term-LOK-TLC310-Compressor-Terminal-Packard/dp/B004UW0GGC
Also, check Ebay for (possibly) better prices.
If you want to get going sooner, you can use tie wire to temporarily secure the electrical wire to the compressor terminal.
https://www.harborfreight.com/25-ft-mechanics-wire-97773.html
I'm serious about the rear tire pressure. It's probably around 35-40lbs of pressure right now. Get a really good tire pressure gauge... because you need one anyway. I could build a nice house for what you have invested in that bike, so don't be cheap and get a good one. Hell, even if you don't change the tire pressure like I'm suggesting, you still need a good tire pressure gauge.
There's a ton of $10 gauges floating around, but I've never found two that read the same, so all of them can be counted on to be inaccurate. But there are good, relatively inexpensive gauges out there. Avoid the digital ones unless you into the >$200 product lines. Not necessary unless you work on a racing team and 1/10lb differences are going to be appropriate and necessary for track condition changes. But GOOD dial-gauges with flexible hoses can be had for about $40-50. Intercomp and Joe's Racing both make reliable, accurate gauges, and they're almost as good as the ones for professional racing teams. Make sure these are 60lb gauges, because you can use them on your car and truck, too. Buy a good one once and you'll never need to buy another. I know you understand this idea.
You probably don't have an inner tube in that rear tire so don't go below 20lbs ever, although I've limped my Road King home on a tire going flat that had about 15lbs in it (an 800lb bike is NOT the same as the 475lb bikes that Harley recommended 15lbs of pressure for). but 22-25lbs is more than enough for the tire to retain its bead on the rim under almost all conditions (except drag racing, unless you're rolling on the throttle instead of dumping the clutch) and hitting a hard curb straight on at 50+mph, and then you'e already got other problems. But running 22-25lbs may make the difference between enjoying every minute of your ride and having to buy a football mouth guard to keep from breaking teeth. OK, you probably don't need the mouth guard, but the difference between 35-40lbs and 22-25lbs will be night and day. Give it a try?
You can splice new controls into the existing harness. I still have my original harness and I've done this with my front end.
I would have gone for the controls you posted if they weren't so expensive. Here are some of the parts I bought:
Mini Speedo from DCC
Left side controls
Brake, Clutch, and Master cylinder. You'll also need new hydraulic lines and banjo bolts.
Clipon Handlebars
Bar End Mirrors. I suggest these specific ones because the mirror is one solid piece that attaches to the ball joint. The ones that have screws have failed me in the past.
They have all sorts of OBD speedometers on Amazon. These work off the OBD port under the dash. You could also just get a Bluetooth OBD reader and run the Torque Pro app on your phone.
If you must have a GPS speedo, I have this one since the speedo gear in my transmission is shredded. Just make sure the buttons and screen work on it since I had to return the first one I received. You may find something better for cheaper though.
Yep. Here's one on Amazon.
But usually you stick a polarized screen thing to the windshield so you can see it better.
You could do it with "Stats for Tesla" or you could do it with this gizmo you'd install:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015PRF04I
2.5" Black Mini Speedometer w/ Black Face & LED Indicator Lights https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01707C7GA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ywTXAbP5X0RVR
RS Vintage Parts RSV-B018FVK7ZI-01394 Motorcycle Parts A71 Replica Smiths Speedometer 0-80 Mph Black Faced Bsa Royal Enfield https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B4VWNVC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_exTXAbANW94F6
RS Vintage Parts RSV-B017BEM078-01362 Motorcycle Parts A40 Smith Replica Speedometer Black Faced Bsa Royal Enfield 0-120 Mph + 54 Inches Long Speedometer Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B4VWEMU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_VxTXAb9VTGRYC
Universal 1.9" Chrome Mini Motorcycle Speedometer w/ Black Face https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0176UHZNG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wyTXAb9AVB64V
Universal 2.5" Chrome Mini Motorcycle Speedometer w/ Black Face & LED Indicator Lights https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01728A46M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pzTXAb4VCG80V
GPS MPH Speedometer Gauge Odometer Black Background For ATV UTV Motorcycle Marine Boat Buggy Golf Go Cart https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XV4YVD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pATXAbK01QKM4
It would be helpful if you could provide links to the manuals of the products you want to connect, or at least the make/models.
A speaker out to line level adapter is probably not the correct solution because the settings on that adapter would need to change with the volume of the amplifier you're feeding it with.
Every commercial receiver, pre-amplifier, or integrated amplifier I've ever seen has at least one of the following line-level(-ish) outputs: headphone jack (TRS), tape out (RCA), pre-out (RCA), equalizer out, TV (RCA, HDMI), or SPDIF/Toslink (digital).
If you absolutely want to connect using a converter instead of connecting the sub properly, consider volume control devices:
https://www.amazon.ca/AUDEW-Amplifier-Control-Remote-Universal/dp/B014MCLUS2/
https://www.amazon.ca/XCSOURCE-Universal-Amplifier-Controller-MA713/dp/B01IR13NGG/
(I can't speak to the quality of any of those, the entire product category is fancy boxed variable resistors of some kind, so around $1-2 in parts costs.)
That's an inductive pickup tachometer. I use one similar working on engines that don't have tachs.
https://www.amazon.com/Runleader-HM032R-Inductive-Tachometer-Snowmobile/dp/B01FZ361CW/
I've seen a couple of Garmins over the years that seemed pretty cool. Etrex I think they're called. The high end you have the Trail Tech's. Those are really sweet. But for just a speedo function I've seen this thing. I've never owned one so I have no idea as to how it installs or how it'll hold up but its small and inexpensive and would mount real nice to the bars.
Re screwing the cap down - to get a good pressure - yes I'd have said so.
Re the gauge something like this https://www.amazon.com/Yellow-Jacket-69044-Vacuum-Gauge/dp/B003AK8LG2
I use this thing: https://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP7605-Tachometer-Voltmeter-Analyzer/dp/B00062YUUS/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8, which looks like it's out of production. But this thing looks alright too...https://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP7677-Automotive-TroubleShooter-Multimeter/dp/B0002LZU7K/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=dwell+tach&qid=1557710630&s=automotive&sr=1-2
I think on your model you just connect it to the battery (mine goes on the coil however). The directions should say how to hook it up. Generally you just set it to "4 cyl." and it should read somewhere between 600-3500 rpm.
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If we think it's the carburetor (choke specific), it's important to rule out anything else. Here's a list of things to check before adjusting the carburetor:
- NO vacuum leaks. This includes intake & exhaust manifolds, carburetor base, pcv hose, brake booster hose, AND all 3mm hoses like the vacuum advance or smog lines. Vacuum leaks can mess with your idle speed. Basically anywhere there's a vacuum connection, make sure it's not leaking. I like to replace all rubber and spray carb cleaner around metal connections.
- Timing and distributor air gap. You can set these things even with the fast idle you've got. It just has to be running (unless you do a static adjustment, which I don't know how to do). Just get a timing light and some brass feeler gauges. Timing = 8deg BTDC, Air Gap = .008" to .016"
- Valve Adjustment. As the engine is recently rebuilt, this probably isn't an issue. Anyways: Intake = .008", Exhaust = .012", HOT.
- Float Level. Look at the glass on the front of the carb. The fuel level should be right in the middle. If it isn't take the top off the carb, flip it upside down and do this: https://board.marlincrawler.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi94.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fl104%2Fspcmike%2FDSC03557.jpg&hash=77ab726ca7e4065975c0b98df09b6f94
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Questions: You say it sometimes won't idle at all at startup. Will it idle once warm? If so, does the idle go down to more of a normal speed when warm? Also, when it doesn't start correctly, is the engine hot or cold?
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It could be that both the choke adjustment and the basic idle adjustment are off. It may be that they're adjusted for the old, worn out engine that you rebuilt, which is why it used to work. It shouldn't be too hard to adjust. I like to do the idle first, then choke. If you need any more info, I'll be around. Best of luck.
For reference, this is the one I bought.
Tach Here
Speedo Here
I may change speedo out, not sure. This one is fairly big, but I like the GPS part.
I have one of these that is compact and reliable and decent quality. At least with an analog one you can keep it in your glovebox or toolbox without worrying about batteries
Depends on what your power situation looks like. I agree with other comments that you don't need the individual switches. However, you may want a battery backup. I like the APC rackmount UPS units. However, if you already have reliable power, and you just want clean power, you can also look into a Furman power conditioner. Otherwise, there are plenty of good rackmount PDUs out there. Personally, I use an APC UPS on it's own, but my rack isn't fully contained and is in a closet full of gear.
Ok so by the looks of it he's got the effects pedals covered, I would go for something else and let him get anther pedal on his own. These are my recommendations that will benefit his current setup.
This is a nice expensive version of this and this is a midway between the other two. These are power conditioners they will help his equipment operate more efficiently and quieter and will last decades(you can use them for home theatre use as well)
I would also recommend nice cables like these they are lifetime warranty. Here's another very useful maintenance kit that will last a very long time. If you pick the 110$ furman you can get all three.
Funny thing is I use to have to test my 12v battery with my old ICE car (Alternator problems) Heres a link to one → https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VL9JZ0K/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_J51zDbEPZZ4Q8
> https://www.amazon.com/Yellow-Jacket-69044-Vacuum-Gauge/dp/B003AK8LG2
That gauge isn't going to do anything for me. I already have that gauge, it stops being useful because I'm at 3 torr, and that gauge has a minimal step resolution of 10 torr.
My BMP183 can read down to 300 pascal (2.25 torr) which is where I'm at. The leak gives me final pressure of 1000 pascal (~7 torr). Both of those are solidly in the lowest pressure (the black bar on the gauge).
Thank you for saying that.
So could I take a wire tap, Like this, and connect the relays to the existing doorbell wires which are running to the garage door opener?
One of these fellows:
https://www.amazon.com/Quick-Splice-Connector-22-18-Gauge/dp/B003L9G6FU
Should be able to find them pretty cheap at a Walmart or something.
i like this one
the big face and hold feature are slick
You need new wires. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Term-LOK-TLC310-Compressor-Terminal-Packard/dp/B004UW0GGC
As far as contactor not energizing it might be another issue but the compreasor should run if you push contactor in manually. It won't start with those burned wires though. If anything you can bypass the board u till you get a replacement.
To adjust an idle screw while the ECU is disengaged. I need the idle RPM to read 700RPM before I re-engage the ECU, then once I have that set I have the base to mess with another idle screw of the mass air flow sensor that the ECU reads. It actually purrs with the computer disengaged from the fuel ratio system, but I don't want to damage the catalytic convertor if I start running rich, as having disengaged the ECU will also stop reading the O2 sensor. I'm thinking this, is what I will buy as it has a tachometer as well as a volt analyzer too. I researched and the auto parts stores don't lend out electronics further than their eyesight, so I'm probably just going to buy that one from amazon.
Before you spend money on a new regulator, maybe throw a brass barb on the threads of one of these and hook up a line to it and see what the pressure compares to on your regulator.
ROFL. Bad advice day? "Most carb guys don't use any of that." Obviously someone has never been around people setting up high horsepower carbed engines. The only part I see these guys tune by ear is idle, part throttle and full throttle get the gauge.
OP, you're looking for an AEM UEGO Wideband. They're like $200. The new X-Series are awesome.