Best heavy duty & commercial vehicles parts according to redditors
We found 24 Reddit comments discussing the best heavy duty & commercial vehicles parts. We ranked the 14 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
better option
Any of the air horn/lowrider/air suspension tanks are way better options than using a ton of little tanks
Check robot manual for rules regarding compressor, as far as I know for offboard they must be rated at a max of 1.1CFM at 12v
IIRC tank just needs to be rated to appropriate specs for pressure
best option for offboard compressor
even better option for compressor
Start of a long line of new parts for the 2000 XJ:
Finally got the ball joints out yesterday around 1pm.
Had to go get an impact gun to even touch the axle nut. Then the damn 13mm 12 point bolts that hold the hub in. Some how I did not strip a single one but have no faith in putting them back in, so now waiting for new bolts to be delivered. Every single cotter pin on the ball joints were so rusted and pushed into the castle nut that I couldn't get them out, so go get new impact sockets (and another trip for swivel sockets for the upper) and unleash all hell to shear the cotter pins off.
Finally got to pushing the ball joints out and the OTC set receiving cup is a touch to big for the lower ball joint, so off to Harbor Freight to get an adapter set.
Anyways, half a rant but happy to hopefully have a Jeep that wont wobble down the road.
I got you
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SSFGDXW?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
It sounds as if you have a axle seal leak. Where the cv axle enters the dude if the tranny there is a seal similar to this Timken 710489 Front Axle Shaft Seal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0JDU1W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5EobzbJ3V385M. So as for your question yes you will have to disassemble to replace that seal. You don't want to risk damage to your "new" cv axle and mostly your transmission.
Looks great!! I think I’ll be doing an M rear bumper on mine before too long too. Did you go OEM for it? Aftermarket?
Also, these will let you use those euro tails you’ve got sitting in a box somewhere 😝 I still haven’t done my LCM coding but when I figure it out I’ll pass along the details 😊
Edit: did your suspension refresh include rear subframe bushings? If so, mind my asking where you found the tool? I know it gets rented out on the forums but I keep hoping I’ll magically find one I can buy for not too much haha
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002PYBZJO/
This is a USB version for windows laptops. The software has "on board code" reading for Ford misfires. I have this scanner, it was the right price, but I want to get an "odblink lx" Bluetooth, but I am unsure if I can read the ford codes using Bluetooth to android phone software.
I was fighting misfires on a ford 4.2 and last year it was the ignition coil & broken intake manifold runner control rod grommets. This year it was intake sludge under the air plenum. (Cylinder 4,5,6)
Read this article to under stand misfires and Ford
http://www.motor.com/article.asp?article_ID=1794
It’s custom. For the most part at least. I got the grill insert off of Bulletproof Fabricating . Then the leds off of Amazon . Emblem off of original grill. It’s a pretty easy Mod.
I use this tool and the software that came with it. I recorded the data to a .csv file and analyzed it myself for the purpose of this post using excel. I have a Surface that I hook up when I do these diagnostics. Any laptop with a USB connection works though. The data you can capture with it is astonishing.
I haven't inspected for any exhaust leaks but I will now that you mention it. I have been able to get the error codes down to only the cat related variety. It's no longer running lean.
I'll have to make some dedicated plans to run this test correctly. I'll log all available data that I possibly can and plot it like I did before for easy consumption.
H&R SuperSports.
H&R 51652-77 Super Sport Spring https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7M3G6Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_P2VZCbYQXDKVV
I didnt install any Isolators. Rides and handles great. Need to get it in for an alignment, but it doesnt get a lot of miles so not in a huge rush.
You mean something like this?
Looks to be the suction pipe for a pump?
I would install some rubber blocks that are 3m taped to the floor for something that is not permanent.
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Something like this.
https://www.amazon.com/Extreme-Max-3005-2187-Rubber-Block/dp/B003ZHU45Q/ref=sr_1_27?keywords=rubber+blocks&qid=1563045203&s=gateway&sr=8-27
I was told there was no sludge when the heads were examined, but the oil pump I believe is up to 60 psi.
oil pump
Edit spelling
Something like the Provent 200? Can you point to any good source for install procedures? What is the problem it is meant to solve? Forgive my ignorance!
Keep in mind I only did the two orange lights in the center of the grill. These aren't LED headlights.
I used these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ECTQNF6?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00
Instruction guide here: http://www.rockcreekoverland.com/single-post/2016/02/29/Mod-Corner-Amber-marker-lights-in-grille
I did the same, used these Grand General 77650 Amber Thin Line 6-LED Marker and Clearance Sealed Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ECTQNF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_27QBDbWFM4P3G
Not OP, but the closest thing I found was [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Turn-Signal-Tail-Light/dp/B007HONH34/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394317020&sr=8-1&keywords=road+bike+turn+signals). Honestly it looks like you get a far better product by spending three times that price.
I suggest you to just take off your spindle and go to a shop to get it pressed out which is usually about 30 bucks a side. Get these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BZ6XJQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and nothing else or OEM. I have tried Raybestos and Dorman both of em sucked.
You can just leave your ball joint on when they press the bearings out since it doesn't get in the way of the press. Get an alignment afterwards as anytime you work on your front end it screws the alignment up a bit.
I posted this as a possible cause and solution.
I have an OBD scanner that I hook up to my computer found here for $28.00US and free shipping!
Vacuum leaks are a possibility too. Thanks!
Edit: If you subscribed to my subreddit then thank you!
ODB-II to USB Cable and software for 25 bucks. It's not as hard or bad as you think now-a-days.
I linked to a National Bearing. Bearings generally use the same part number for every brand. Link to Timken below, be sure it fits your car, don't trust my search. Not sure why you would need a new axle nut, I could be wrong and can't give you a educated answer. There may be some stretching or locking mech that would make a new nut safer. I didn't watch the video, I skimmed it for to be sure it would be the help you needed. I'm sure someone made a video in English. Try A1Auto, they're a parts dealer that makes there own self help videos. For sure get it pressed in, hammering it in will likely damage the bearing or not seat properly. https://www.amazon.com/Timken-510063-Wheel-Bearing/dp/B000BZ6YRM