Best automotive lithium greases according to redditors
We found 182 Reddit comments discussing the best automotive lithium greases. We ranked the 36 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 182 Reddit comments discussing the best automotive lithium greases. We ranked the 36 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
If you enjoy tinkering then the Folger Tech i3 2020 is a pretty good printer and you can read my review of it here.
Get some Super Lube or other appropriate grease to pack the bearings with so that they don't fail on you like mine eventually did.
You will want to get a good set of metric hex keys as the vast majority of the screws are metric hex heads.
A soldering iron, 16g or better primary wire, and some solder are also a must as you will have to solder the leads to the heated bed so it can be connected to the RAMPS board.
Personally if I was to go back and build mine again I would toss the Mk2 heater PCB and use a Mk3 aluminum heated bed with a sheet of PEI on top from the start. It would have saved me both money and time troubleshooting both adhesion issues and the majorly warped heater PCB.
If you have any other questions don't hesitate to ask.
> I have Prime, and even with prime there is a minimum order of $25[1] or they won't ship it out.
That's not how it works. Add-on items are not Prime-eligible, but when you add them to a $25 order with other Prime items, they'll ship as if they're Prime.
http://i.imgur.com/7ZyfTLn.png
Your grease is not Prime-Eligible
But this grease is Prime-Eligible
Lithium Grease, you can find this at your local hardware store.
or
http://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-10533-Lithium-Grease/dp/B004X70LZA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1394548507&sr=8-2&keywords=lithium+grease
My recommendation: Super Lube. It's cheap, and it will work on anything. With vaseline, the petroleum will damage certain types of o-rings. Astro-glide is just not designed for this type of application either.
Lots of people also really love Nyogel. Here's a good CPF thread about greases and lubes.
white lithium grease.
ps; most gun oils are just normal machine oils with a couple of additives. alright for what they sell them as, but in this case you want something that will stick to the bits. WLG is the stuff they use on the moving bits of flight sticks from the factory, as well as stuff like the moving parts in any optical drive, some childrens toys where the lubrication will never be exposed to the light of day, etc.
something like this used sparingly, but with full coverage of the contact surfaces, will sort things out nicely.
cheers.
https://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-10533-Lithium-Grease/dp/B004X70LZA
You can probably get it cheaper at your local Walmart or auto parts store.
Superlube
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000XBH9HI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484767208&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=super+lube+synthetic+grease&dpPl=1&dpID=31-xhQ8JfAL&ref=plSrch
$5 a tube. Safe for incidental food contact. Should last you for years, unless you have like 500 lights or something.
Wipe off gunk on thread with microfiber cloth.
Apply a tiny dab.
Work it in by tightening and loosening a few times.
Wipe off excess.
Standard WD-40 is not a lubricant. WD-40 displaces water and acts as a degreaser. It will work as a lubricant for a short period, but once it evaporates you'll have no lubrication.
The stuff you linked is a silicone lube that's simply under the WD-40 brand, it is not WD-40 in the traditional sense. As it's a spray, it's not the sort of lube you really want in a bearing; what you want is a really light silicone or lithium grease:
http://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-Synthetic-Syncolon-Lubricant/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421952488&sr=8-1&keywords=light+grease that stays inside the bearing.
I will give you my background before my opinions. As everyone has different goals, opinions, and experiences.
I got my printer near the end March of this year. I have something like 2500m of filament run though it, and no idea how much print time.
When I received my printer, my test prints failed and I was pissed. But this community helped improve my Cura settings and started producing usable parts. I then went nuts and printed out a BUNCH of mods. This is by far my most favorite thing. There's always something I can print to improve the quality of the prints.
THe down side is I went too far and got to a point where I couldn't produce anything of quality. So, 2 weeks of tweeking and researching later I'm printing in PETG with beautiful quality and very minimal visible layers.
My most recent project in PETG:
http://i.imgur.com/sVf7S2D.jpg?1
So, now to answer your question...
> How do you like your Maker Select?
I love it. It allowed me to buy a cheaper printer (One of the cheapest at the time @ $350) that produced amazing results. It also has upgrades you can purchase or print to improve the quality, so investing smaller amounts over time to make it better and better. I highly recommend it to anyone who is starting because it does require tweaking which forces you to learn and understand how exactly 3d printers work. A major plus was that this community has a lot of Maker Select users for support, which was a MAJOR plus for me.
As of today, I've purchased the following upgrades:
So, in the last ~3 months I've spent an additional $264... Oh god, don't tell my wife! All are totally not necessary, mind you. The only thing I'd 100% recommend you do are print out the following to mods:
DiiiCooler along with buying the 50mm blower fan. There are cheaper options out there, I just wanted it faster so I bought it through Amazon to get free 2 day shipping.
z-Brace - This is key, and will run you maybe $15 worst case scenario to get enough M4 screws and the threaded rods.
Edit: Forgot a couple more things I bought.
That's another $59, so $323... I have a problem. again, 95% of this is NOT NECESSARY. I'm just addicted to modding.
White Lithium Grease
Links are fine.
Nyogel is good or you could just use this, it works just fine too.
I have a tube from 2003-ish that I'm still using, its basically a lifetime supply.
Lube every stab, even if you have only basic lubes. Safe to use and available locally (especially auto parts stores) would be super lube or white lithium grease.
SuperLube
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_HJlwDbSZTXJPN
NyoGel is great but expensive. SuperLube is great but cheap...
Any dielectric grease or white grease should do the trick. Plus you can find it in almost any home improvement or auto parts store.
Gears need grease because it clings to them, oil will just fling off. Look for: SuperLube PTFE Synthetic or Lithium Moly grease.
I was motivated by the recent thread with the X rated pics of the frame, so this weekend I spent quite a lot of time inspecting the bike everywhere with a flashlight for rust (owned less than 1 year). As someone who leaves a puddle on the floor after a workout, it only made sense that had to leave impact on steel. While Peloton suggests you to wipe down the bike after a ride, the places where most people would clean, such as the large smooth surface areas, may keep the bike looking good but are actually not problem areas. The problem is everywhere you miss--seat bolt and the threads on the frame, connectors, the gap to the shaft on the left pedal, the bolt and opening where the cover on the right meets the frame, underside of frame where the welds are, outer pedal threads, metal screws, etc. For the seat handle, not only were the threads in bad shape, but also I could see rust on the front and back of the handle where it meets the bolt. Basically, the more I looked for rust, the more I found. Left untreated for a few years, I think it would have evolved into bigger problems down the road.
I used Ospho on many of the painted parts and the bolts and let it sit for a day. Getting to some parts required something like a toothpick or a dental tool with the paper towel scrap to scrub. Ospho (HD equivalent here) makes rust inert and preps it for painting, then used a touch up brush and applied some black rustoleum paint to the painted areas. Then I used white lithium grease(spray) to protect all the moving parts and bolts, and even into the seat handle. To protect the underbelly of the frame where the welds are, I'm tempted to apply some stickier grease like Red and Tacky to completely seal those areas from sweat and air after now that the paint has dried, because it is not an area that can be easily and properly cleaned every time. Going forward I'll be looking it over much more frequently.
Is it terrible that I use this stuff to lubricate my lights? Granted, my most expensive is a Convoy S2+.
It's a thinner oil lubricant that's non-reactive with the plastic and often mixed with Krytox GPL 205, a grease lubricant. It's the "ultimate lube" for MX switch contact points (aside from clicky switch stems) according to some people at Geekhack, Deskthority, and some Korean sites. I recently got some as a gift and will try them out with my pseudo Ergo Clears in which I'll be using 67g Korean springs.
Of course, some people don't really see a difference between it and a cheap tube of Superlube. Some actually prefer Superlube and others think the Krytox is a little better, but not worth the premium.
I would apply a thin film of white lithium grease. You can buy it almost anywhere.
https://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-10533-Lithium-Grease/dp/B004X70LZA
Hi. As both someone who uses Froglube on firearms, and as someone who techs AEG gearboxes...
It won't be harmful, but really isn't ideal. Specifically, froglube CLP isn't good, far too thin. The paste - well, if you properly treat all of the metal with the heat treatment, it'll be okay, but I still think a proper gear lubricant is in order.
You have to realize that while they are both "guns" - an AEG is far more a gearbox than a gun. You need gearbox lubricant not gun lubricant.
I highly suggest for seals and the like - a solid silicone lubricant. Barrels and mags - a teflon lubricant with alcohol application, so it dries but still provides lubrication, without getting on bbs.
For the gearbox? Go with Super lube.
What you want is something like this. If you're spending over $6 for a tub, you're probably being had.
I second Super Lube.
I do, however, use the silicone compounds on the compression train. Silicone grease is a little bit lighter than the synthetic, leads to less of the "suction" effect.
For high speed setups: Oil
For much more longevity: Grease
A quality white lithium grease works great for the drive train as well.
I suggest avoiding nearly all "airsoft" rebranded grease/oils, they're heavily marked up/ repackaged industrial standards.
https://www.amazon.com/Red-I-Red-I-50042-C-Grease-50-14oz-tubes/dp/B00OV6D0D8
Was in the background during the spindle assembly when he slid the bellevue washer stack in.
The same product on Amazon, with shipping to Australia.
I use Inox MX6, which you can get from Jaycar or BCF, at the recommendation of someone on here a few months back. It works well.
MTB have used the WD-40 lithium grease spraycans in some of their videos, so they at least don't have a problem with using aerosols. I've also seen some people suggest silicon sprays, like this one.
WD-40 is not a lubricant, I use mobil grease, but this would be just fine ( see link) or stop at a auto store and get a multi purpose grease.
Super Lube 21030 Translucent White Color 3 oz. Automotive Accessories https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Yk22Cb96K4F0F
I run through a can of grease and have to refill my oil can (straight 30 weight) so much more often than my WD40 can. Nothing wrong with WD40, but for most common applications there's a better choice than WD40.
My gas toolbox:
Teflon Tape
Replacement gaskets for every fitting in service (tank-to-regulator, and all keg gaskets, beer nut / shank washers if doing faucets)
Extra tubing for gas and beverage
Extra barb-swivel nut fittings
Spray bottle with soapy water or starsan to check for leaks
Channel-lock wrench x 2 (many brass fittings are just threadded so you may need to hold one thing in place while threading or un-threading something else.
Nylon washers if using MFL/FFL connectors (I recommend this as opposed to barb).
Hose Clamps or Oketer Clamps and crimp tool
Faucet Wrench (if you're working with shanks - you do not want to wreck a new shank with a pair of pliers)
Extra picnic taps
Extra QDs
Keg Lube Generic Equivalent: It doesn't need to say Keg on it, it needs to be food grade. Do not mix silicone-based lubricant with silicone gaskets, it will kinda melt them. I have this stuff at the moment
​
I had a problem like this on an old Portastudio.
I put some white lithium grease on the friction-prone portions of the head assembly. That is, any surface that slid against another surface, barring the head itself.
It took some finagling to get it in all the right spots. Then I had to manually move the assembly back and forth, but it eventually started engaging/disengaging normally.
I can tell you from experience these work great. I also put a little bit of Superlube Synthetic Grease in mine to slow down the wear and tear.
Well if you're searching for lubricant, including "lubricant" in the search terms tends to help. I'm not entirely sure but something like this should work.
Another lubricant recommendation is electronics-grade white lithium grease like this. It's not regarded quite as good for plunger tubes/o-rings but is considered better for various other parts that rub against eachother. Though the actual difference is pretty minimal.
Edit; /u/Duke_Wintermaul seems to have a better silicone grease recommendation.
Regular wd40 is not a lubricant, you have to break that habit. It's designed to clean electronics and rid them of water
White lithium is what you want
Wd40 even makes aerosol can of it
WD-40 Specialist Protective White Lithium Grease Spray with SMART STRAW SPRAYS 2 WAYS, 10 OZ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L35DAWQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rxiMDbSJYX9XC
Yes... in fact, it appears that WD-40 now makes one with their awesome flip-top straw cans!
https://www.amazon.com/Specialist-Lithium-Grease-Spray-White/dp/B00MIWVKPM
https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-51004-Synthetic-Viscosity/dp/B000UKUHXK/ plus https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/
Mix it to a desireable thickness.
I believe something like this will work. Just a light coating will do.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000XBH9HI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467894716&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=plastic+lube&dpPl=1&dpID=31-xhQ8JfAL&ref=plSrch
As /u/Phil12312 pointed out, the brass coupling should have it's screws a little loose.
You may have a burr on the leadscrew that doesn't "move a little faster".
Try moving the leadscrew using the 1mm setting from the bottom to the top by hand see if you can spot it.
If there is a burr, you can smooth it by hand with a piece of fine (400 - 600 Grit) silicon carbide sanding paper.
Lubricant - \u\Dylanator13 's suggestion of 3-in-one Oil is just plain WRONG. (Sorry, Buddy! :-) )
It's fine that you used what you have handy, it's your machine. If you choose to mistreat it, that's between you and your machine. But PLEASE don't recommend this to anyone else, it's just wrong!
"There are many different suggestions of what lubricant to use online" - Yeah, and the majority of them are the blind leading the blind. Threaded rods need a fine GREASE, not a light OIL that breaks down quickly, and can run down the shaft fouling the stepper motor.
The proper lubricant for a leadscrew is a VERY THIN, EVEN application of either a Lithium based grease, or what many have found superior, a heavy duty PTFE based grease like Super Lube.
It has excellent lube properties, has a very long breakdown time (unlike many greases), and isn't prone to attracting dust which wears bearings.
Here's an Amazon Link:
https://smile.amazon.com/Super-Lube-Dielectric-Synthetic-Authorized/dp/B00C5014K8
But I got mine here in the US at Ace Hardware (was actually MUCH cheaper!) :
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3506761
If you're in Europe, UK or Australia, I don't know where you can get it, maybe someone can jump in!
Let us know if you solve it, K?
PuterPro
The oil is a little thin I prefer this one https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=pd_sim_328_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000XBH9HI&pd_rd_r=AHY72GK05GYKYYEFP4AY&pd_rd_w=9DpH3&pd_rd_wg=pbEUO&psc=1&refRID=AHY72GK05GYKYYEFP4AY
Can also mix them 30% oil 70% grease to get something that is a little easier to apply.
This is what I used. I clean my rails every few weeks and apply this to them.
https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=pd_sim_328_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=31-xhQ8JfAL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR120%2C160_&refRID=H3FTJJAS37BZQ08QAHTP
It would help if you could identify the specific joints that are the noisiest. It's likely a combination of your rear shock, your swingarm's connection to the frame, and the subframe joints. Sometimes you can't do much with older bikes short of replacing the parts, but cleaning and greasing it should help you.
WD40 is simply a water displacement. It doesn't grease anything, it just helps remove the water, and it's especially helpful if youre trying to unscrew or pull out something and it's stuck, as it will temporarily lubricate what you spray it on.
If you want to get rid of squeaks in the joints, either get some spray lubricant(like a silicone based one, something like this) or you can tear the bike down and apply grease(just get a tub of it and it'll last you years, something like this) to a lot of the moving parts. The rear shock is something you definitely don't wanna be taking apart unless you know what you're doing, so try just putting grease on the outsides of the joints or getting spray lubricant and spraying it in the joints.
I recommend the grease method, as the silicone spray often doesn't do a long term job and it isn't nearly as water proofing. Try to find some videos of how to take apart dirt bikes, and apply those concepts to your bike. Every bike is different, but if you watch some klx 125 teardown videos, you'll catch on. Pretty much you can take off everything except the rear shock/swingarm and still be able to put it back on easily.
Hi, I want to try to build my first custom mechanical keyboard soon. I think I have everything sorted out, but I want to know if I'm making any mistakes. This is my part list:
i'd go with this
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81981-Lithium-Grease-Aerosol/dp/B000HBGJG6
It's rebranded Aeroshell 33ms (now called Aeroshell 64).
You can buy a full tube on Amazon for ~$30, and other places for even cheaper. Many folks buy the grease in the larger 14oz tube then repackage it into small 1oz vials and sell them for $10 each.
I just used Super Lube on an old stick I'm tearing down and rebuilding. It works fine, although since I just did it I don't know yet how long it will last.
I personally just use silicone grease from home depot, but I've read great things about Super Lube.
Super Lube Grease and Oil
Simple bike maintenance you need a multitool with:
allen wrenches (metric 2mm, 2.5mm, 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, 6mm, 8mm)
screwdrivers (flat, Phillips, and Torx T-25)
With that alone, you can do most minor bike maintenance. You SHOULD however also buy some lube for bolts, nuts, pivots and more. Almost anytime you take something apart that is not the chain, when putting it back on you want to lube it. I use the following:
https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519748163&sr=8-1&keywords=superlube
You also want chain lube. A must have if you want your drive train to last which is basic maintenance as well. You can buy a crap brush to clean it on a regular basis or a full blown kit.
Tire levers and a pump or compressor are also a must. There is always one reason or another why a tire will need to be removed.
Super lube
https://mechboards.co.uk/shop/all/stabiliser-lubricant/
https://www.amazon.de/SuperLube-Mehrzweck-Synthetik-basierend-Fett/dp/B00C5014K8/
The EGR system is just a bunch of hoses. Look at the diagram on this page and check those hoses for brittleness, leaks, or cracks. Also check the check valves. Over time they can look like they are almost melting? It's hard to explain, but if you know what they are you'll know what I'm talking about when you see it. There's also an "L" shaped plastic hose that comes out of the crankcase. Check it. It has a tendency to explode. Not a big deal if it does, you just lost HP and MPG til it's fixed. Oh and you leak oil.
Look at this preventative maintenance guide that a guy on the Audi forums posted. Read through each of them to learn about the car and check for them while inspecting.
If you are into DIY stuff, check the [Audi DIY] (http://www.audidiy.com/b6a4.html) site. If you can't find it, google it. There's probably a writeup somewhere.
LPTs:
This car will cost you more money than you want in repairs and maintenance. If you like to DIY it's not too bad. I saved 700 dollars doing my own timing belt+water pump+ tensioners. I still spent 500 between tools and parts but the DIY made it cheaper.
That's all I can remember from my first post. If I remember anything else I'll add it in a new comment.
Hey another commentor made me look into it again. It seems like Super Lube (synthetic grease with PTFE/Teflon) (Amazon link) is what is recommended these days.
The other two I mentioned before have been used by a lot of people over the years and I haven't heard anything bad about them, but the folks at Prusa seem to be recommending Super Lube these days (links here and here).
FWIW, I use machine oil and I'm going to keep using machine oil. As the second link mentions, mixing lubricants can cause reactions between the old and the new stuff which can wreck your shit.
Hope this helped.
https://www.amazon.com/Lubricant-Grease-Nyogel-50g-Tube/dp/B00W6KWK1Y seems in stock but I've used https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80345-White-Lithium-Grease/dp/B000HBNV58/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_bs_lp_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=9JBBKWHAVF09F98QKWYP in a pinch without issue
White lithium grease wont kill your orings, but many claim that it's a rather thick and stiff lube, thus not being optimal for plunger systems. For any other application it's fine. YMMV, but I generally also dislike it for this reason.
SuperLube synthetic grease is a favorite. Sticks well, great application range, durable. It's thinner than WL, but if it's too thick, my little trick to making it looser is to add a little bit of silicon oil and give it a good mix before applying it. Silicon oil btw is the grease you'll notice when you first open up your blasters; I found out when I emailed buzzbee and hasbro asking for what they use. It's very slick, and very thin. I find making use of both resulted in best of both worlds.
This should work:
AEROSHELL 33MS Moly Synthetic MIL-SPEC Barrel Nut Thread Grease, 2 oz Jar https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M5J6J0A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qbr9ybMT08E0A
I have the same brand, don't recall if I got it on Amazon or eBay. That little jar will be inexhaustible for a home builder.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=twister_B01N5IYUDN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You can find this at your local hardware store. Stab rattle can also be caused by the quality of the stab and size of wire. If you can remove and/or replace them easily I highly recommend genuine cherry stabs with this lube. The thicker wires and plastic used really help to tighten things up. I'm going on at least a month strong and no resurgence of rattle.
We've got a tube of this that works wonders on all sorts of gearboxes.
White lithium grease is generally the direction I go.
I switched from Super Lube (which is great, I use it everywhere) to Permatex Ultra Engine Assembly Lube aka Red Lube of Love for my higher tooth-count ratchets. That stuff is extremely slick and sticky. Rats glide effortlessly, noticeably better than Super Lube. However, it is more quiet, so if you're the kind who feels or listens for the clicks you may not like it as much.
I haven't fixed those in particular, but a fat blob of o-ring compatible grease will keep most in place until assembly. For water o-rings I like Super Lube
I think the same machine oil you use for CNC will work, but I use sewing machine oil to lube the X and Y rods (couple drops) whenever they feel "dry" to the back of my finger:
https://www.amazon.com/4-oz-Sewing-Machine-Oil/dp/B000H8Q41Y
For Z-axis, I use PTFE synthetic grease (drops all along the Z axis) like this every... 6 months?:
https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI
Also, make sure the extruder gears aren't grinding/biting into the filament too much and getting filament poo poo buildup all over the gears.
Spare nozzle, hotend, thermistor (I've only had to replace a hotend once in 2 years and also because I made a dumb mistake).
Don't be afraid to ask for help when you aren't sure because if you screw up, you may damage your printer.
Most (if not all) greases are just too thick for bearings, you need something much thinner for bearings to run well on. A lot of people (myself included) think 10 weight nano oil seems to be just about the best, Some even prefer the thinner 5 weight nano oil.
Daiwa Reel Oil and food grade mineral oil(food safe option) are two more very common recommendations. Also just about any gun lube would be adequate as well. I'd personally recommend Hornady One-Shot Dry Lube as well, it's great stuff. Stay away from any organic based oils such as olive, vegetable, peanut, etc... as they'll tend to gum up and become rancid. Same thing with W(Water) D(Displacement) 40 as it's not a lube but a displacer of water and will also gum up the action of your knife.
Greases are better utilized on knives that run on washers, such as a Sebenza. I have personal experience with Tri-Flow Synthetic Grease and would definitely recommend it for some washer knives that seem to run a little better with a light application of grease such as the aforementioned Sebenza.
Have you tried lubricating the z-axis threaded rod? It's not mentioned anywhere in the assembly guide, but I found that a liberal application of super lube did wonders for my RepRapPro Mendel. The Z axis used to bind constantly when it moved too fast and now it's perfect.
I wanted to share my first experience with switch swapping. I was nervous because so many people said the Leopold was hard to desolder and this was my first time soldering any thing. But it all went really well, so I wanted to share in case any one else is thinking about it plus some info that might be useful to you veterans as well.
One part of keyboard customization I don't see addressed much is deadening the ping and case sound. Some people add foam to the bottom, but I found going between the PCB and Plate reduces sound a LOT. This baby is stuffed like a turkey and sounds amazing.
I've also seen a lot of people saying how great the Engineer solder sucker is. While the build quality is nice I'm not sure its worth $25, and most of the performance was because of the silicon tip. So I just added one to a cheap sucker and it worked great. I was worried about the temp as it says it isn't rated up to 350c but it worked great with barely any discoloring, and for like $1 you get 3ft so it basically lasts forever.
​
Links -
Neoprene $12 1/8" - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001FVG3CM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Soldering Station $37 - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/STM32-T12-Soldering-Station-Electronic-Soldering-iron-OLED-1-3-Digital-station-solder-iron-tip-welding/32994824865.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.7ba64c4dVrNrn3
Solder Sucker $5 - https://www.banggood.com/Sucking-Vacuum-Desoldering-Pump-Solder-Sucker-Remover-Tool-p-932434.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=CN
Silicon Tube 5x7mm $1 - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1-Meter-Food-Grade-Transparent-Silicone-Rubber-Hose-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-10/32986897358.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.7ba64c4dVrNrn3
DSA Caps $35 - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/dsa-profile-Dye-Sub-Keycap-Set-PBT-plastic-retro-beige-for-mechanical-keyboard-beige-grey-cyan/32965815374.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.7ba64c4dVrNrn3
Super Lube $5 - https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=super+lube&qid=1556304495&s=gateway&sr=8-5
​
I realized I really don't like the DSA keycap profile but this was a really nice set, pretty thick and great dye sub printing, way more crisp than my Enjoy PBT Cherry profile set I've been using.
​
I didn't have any lifted pads or issues at all despite me being a total noob. Using a 2.4mm chisel tip and my solder sucker combo worked really well. Just stuck the flat tip on flat side (top/bottom) of the soldered stem, let it heat up for about 5-6 seconds and then sucked. At 350c on my soldering Iron most guides said this was too long but i didn't have any issues, and going quicker left a lot of residue.
Also with the silicon tip I didn't have to move the soldering tip and place the sucker over the stem (doing this fast before the solder cools down is a pita) because of the silicon I just pressed it on top with the soldering iron still heating and sucked all at once. DEFINITELY worth the $1, made the process so much easier.
I also used Super Lube for all my lubing. This is what a lot of people use for the stabilizers as its really thick but then use expensive stuff for the switches. I just used a very small amount (scrape your brush off and then wipe it on so you can barely see it but its shiny). Worked great, no ping from the springs and very smooth and a $5 tube will last forever.
​
I want to do another now! need to decide on what type of switches I might like more than these super light 35g box reds. Maybe some speed switches? And I'll want to do a good solid metal case.
Overall I'm just super happy the whole thing worked without any problems. I get to use my really good Leopold plate/base/pcb (i really like the led under caps/num lock to let you know its on) with switches I like more!
​
If any one has any questions or needs help doing their first switch swap let me know, I'm 1 for 1 haha.
Recommend checking out the vintage section at bikeforums. Some tricks:
An oxalic acid bath for a day or so works well for removing rust from steel (but don't use it on aluminum). Flitz polish, which I used for a lot, requires a lot of "elbow grease" but gets a good shine on things – including paint (make sure the decals are below the clearcoat!), but it does strip the satin anodizing off of aluminum. WD-40 removes a lot of dried-on crud that mere soap and water fail to solvate. If a brake bolt is rusted into the frame, drip WD-40 onto it, use a block of wood as a buffer and smash it with a hammer. If the quill stem is stuck/rusted, unscrew the stem bolt a few mm, use a buffer and smash it with a hammer. - this will loosen the expander wedge. Turning the seatpost (keep the saddle attached) in one constant direction while pulling up is the best way to gradually remove it if it's stuck - twisting it back and forth will gouge it in a particularly ugly fashion. Um... get an adjustable (aka "crescent") wrench, I don't think a single nut on this bike worked with my normal wrenches.
That's all I can think of at the moment. Basic bike stuff also applies, like greasing the threads of every bolt and (almost) every metal-metal contact point (the cranks are supposed to be a dry press fit, though!), and lubing all the pivots & springs & whatnot. I like synthetic SuperLube with PTFE for grease, and a dry chain lube with Teflon for lubricant.
Bah. Save your money and go to your local hardware store. Tell them you want some clear grease like superlube. It's cheaper and perfectly fine for this kind of stuff.
Like this: http://smile.amazon.com/Super-Lube-Synthetic-Syncolon-Lubricant/dp/B000XBH9HI
I use https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XBH9HI on leadscrews and https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UKUHXK on linear rods.
> costar stabs are the worst!
Fight me.
They do the job of stabilizing keys far far better than cherry style ones. Way less wiggle, much smoother and if you lube them; Hooh baby. Recommend this stuff. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XBH9HI?redirect=true&pldnSite=1
Easiest way to get them on is to take both plastic inserts, and thread them into the wire on the board. Align them so you can put the cap on, and then do so slowly. Once you get the hang of it, the difference between the two is negligible. Some grease helps with the alignment process thanks to the viscosity.
Dis kind
Have also used dis but doggo chewed the tube so no mo squeezy.
IIRC, Super Lube is the Voron-approved grease.
I've been using this grease on my CH and BCG. So far it's been great.
$80 Zealios V2 67g Switches (These are 20% off right now if you want to get them cheaper!)
$160 KBDFans DIY Kit (Tofu Case, DZ60RGB PCB, Polycarbonate Plate, Stabilizers, Screws, USB C Cable, etc)
$25 Keycaps
$5 Super Lube 21030 (for lubing stabilizers)
Total Cost: $270
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Next Upgrades:
$30 - Zeal Transparent Gold Plated PCB Mount Screw-in Stabilizers V2
$67 - Blue Zilents V2 Switches (Silent Tactile)
$8 - Tribosys 3204 Switch Lubricant
$75 - EPBT x biip Extended 2048 PBT Keycaps Set
Can I use Super Lube 21030 to get rid of the crunchy noise my aftermarket springs make, or is it too thick?
Thanks in advance!
A few options:
MechboardsUK is out of stock.
SwitchTop is great, but int. shipping is $8.50.
Or you can buy from Amazon. I think this is the same stuff that SwitchTop uses.
I followed a lube guide on here and lubed all my stabs with this lithium grease and it's been great. This stuff is super cheap and makes a world of difference.
Honestly as long as you purchase the aluminum Y-axis plate and use spacers alongside my Z-axis bed leveler you will get just as nice results. If you have a wood Y-axis plate you may not want to use spacers and possibly look into auto bed leveling solution.
I use something like this for lubricant: http://amzn.com/B000XBH9HI
As for the spacers I use aluminum spacers that are (I think) 1/4" OD 1/4" Length >3mm ID. Aluminum while the difference is most likely very little, it still is slightly better. I just would recomend going to a hardware store and finding spacers with an OD of 1/4" and length of 1/4" the ID does not matter as long as you can fit a 3mm bolt through it. Best to find something with a somewhat thick wall.
No problem. You'll probably be cleaning lint etc mostly from it if you plan to carry it around. I tend to go a little overboard when I clean my guns, but I typically don't clean my rifles/shotguns all that frequently and will go between multiple thousands of rounds before I do.
When I clean my guns I use a mat like this to absorb oils etc and this to get all of the black carbon out of it. I use these to clean the bore/inside of the barrel. I use these and these for the hard to reach places that still have something building up on them.
When you're done cleaning everything, you'll want to make sure you put oil/grease on all the components that come in contact with other parts. Basically if it rolls oil it, if it slides grease it. I use this on the slide/rails where they contact each other and use this in most other places. Then I'll wipe down the exterior with this.
Really all you have to make sure you do is get most of the debris out of the gun, and make sure you have oil on surfaces that create friction or need some kind of rust preventative coating.
I can't find Super Lube easily in my area, so I am wondering if this one might be used instead:
https://www.amazon.fr/Tri-Flow-TF23004-Clear-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000C15MUU/ref=sr_1_1?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1518365758&sr=8-1&keywords=synthetic+grease
edit: Maybe this one would be good too? https://www.amazon.fr/Finish-Line-Extreme-Fluoro-Huile/dp/B002L5UL92/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518366940&sr=8-1&keywords=finish+line+extreme
edit 2: Or this one? https://www.amazon.fr/Permatex-81150-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL2RI2/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1518366744&sr=8-8&keywords=permatex
Argh. I am lost in sea of information about mech keyboards (aka, /r/mechanicalkeyboards Wiki ;)
Superlube Synthetic grease also works great, is safe to use on plastic and is non-toxic. You can find it here, https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518152510&sr=8-1&keywords=superlube+synthetic+grease. It comes in various sizes. You can also purchase a 14oz cartridge of it for a few dollars more but I prefer to have it in a plastic tube.
 
Some people that have used white lithium grease have said that it can dry up a bit and clump up over time. I did a lot of research before deciding on the best grease to use for the N64 joystick.
Over on GeekWack there was some special blend floating around, but it was going for the same price is cocaine. I would suggest this one if you want to go cheaper.
Maybe try something thicker? This is what i use on my stabs, http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80345-White-Lithium-Grease/dp/B000HBNV58/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1465174527&sr=8-3&keywords=white+lithium
Amazon for bulk oil
https://www.amazon.com/Sinopec-G-MPRED2-SK-Multipurpose-Lithium-Grease/dp/B01FQ0A4IG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1465582366&sr=8-2&keywords=red+grease+120
What did you pack the bearings with originally?
Here's what I use:
https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468280863&sr=8-1&keywords=superlube
Ah, I did manage to find the grease you mentioned.
It's this one, right?
Thanks for the advice!
Sure -- i edited my comment to say REGREASE not DEGREASE for the valve... typo
this is the stuff i use
Amazon.
Both good:
https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-300243-Specialist-Lithium-Grease/dp/B00L35DAWQ/ref=pd_sim_328_1?ie=UTF8
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AF0ODGM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I also have a self-built i3 that was loud when first built. I was able to cut down on noise by doing the following:
Also, periodically make sure that all nuts are tight. They tend to loosen from vibration allowing washers to rattle around.
My next step will probably be using IGUS Drylin bearings in place of my ball bearing LM8UUs, but this plan is on hold while I consider switching to a CoreXY configuration.
Hope this helps!
Lithium grease is more for weather resistance and heavy duty. I wouldn't use anything heavier than the ptfe silicone.
http://www2.dupont.com/Consumer_Lubricants/en_US/applications/faqs.html
Honestly though $6.82 and free shipping http://www.amazon.com/Synthetic-Grease-Syncolon-Purpose-Lubricant/dp/B000XBH9HI
That stuff is really good and not too heavy.
Any lithium based grease, this is the one I use and it works well:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000HBNV58/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_.rnjDbAA02FNQ
Without lube, they are smoother than other stabilizers I've tried. But with lube, I can't say I notice a big difference in actual use, so the Zeal stabilizers might not be worth the price premium. You should at least get genuine Cherry stabilizers and some lube, though.
So use amazon.ca
Depending on how its configured, you might consider spray lithium 'grease' (after cleaning out the existing crud with an appropriate solvent). It is waterproof, non-conducting, and doesn't attract dust/fuzzle.
should be able to find it just about anywhere, it's pretty common stuff. I have this kind, but any other brand would probably be fine:
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80345-White-Lithium-Grease/dp/B000HBNV58/
Valvoline Lithium grease
Amazon sells it for $9/lb
https://www.amazon.ca/Valvoline-General-Multi-Purpose-Grease-454g/dp/B000CQ264A/
Super Lube 21030 Translucent White Color 3 oz. Automotive Accessories https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MDXBDbZ1BRJ18
Permatex Lithium Grease
Anti-seize is good stuff but not really good for moving parts. Something that is going to be rotating or touching something rotating at extreme speeds is going to need high temp grease on it. Check this
Is this what you suggested? http://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/
The CMS is the higher end version of Mevotech. I would rate it slightly higher than the Moog R series.
Get that one but make sure to use a good Moly grease to lube it up. It has a grease fitting so grease it up with good moly grease before installing.
Like this...
https://smile.amazon.com/Sta-Lube-SL3330-Moly-Graph-Pressure-Multi-Purpose/dp/B000KKJQL4
Someone here on reddit posted something like this https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80345-White-Lithium-Grease/dp/B000HBNV58 will also work.
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But I cant confirm this!
Superlube http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_Pbvsub127V363
You should be able to find it in a squeeze tube at any auto parts store, that's probably better then a tub for this anyway.
https://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-10533-Lithium-Grease/dp/B004X70LZA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496931353&sr=8-1&keywords=lucas+white+lithium+grease
https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-Synthetic-FamilyValue-kes-Super/dp/B000XBH9HI?th=1
No idea why Dielectric Grease price gone so weird on Amazon. Have you considered looking at eBay?
You should apply some Lithium Grease to lubricate the tray mechanism. Also, the mechanism may be filled with gunk from the old grease mixed with dirt.
The difficulty reading PS2 games may be caused by a dirty lens. You should clean it with a cotton swab and isopropyl alcohol.
As for the audio problem, it appears to be a problem with the switcher and not with the PS2.
Hi guys I'm looking for a lube for stabilizers in switzerland/germany/austria.
Is this one good?
https://www.amazon.de/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?__mk_de_DE=ÅMÅZÕÑ&qid=1541859809&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=SUPER+LUBE&dpPl=1&dpID=314datimFhL&ref=plSrch
Could you recommend another one?
This is what I use. Big improvement in prints.
Super Lube 21030 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), 3 oz Tube https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jDe7CbKSHZ7KG
Oil
Grease
I used this for my stabilizers: Super Lube 21030 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), 3 oz Tube by Super Lube https://www.amazon.de/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_QLATybMWDFXHH
If you can still reach the points where the wire is having contact with the oring (seems like you can) with a small paintbrush, you can still apply lube.
> Mobil-1 XHP222
This shit? https://www.amazon.com/MOBIL-GREASE-XHP-222-SPECIAL/dp/B00IRI3R1G
OK, I'm thinking we do this in stages.
Stage 1 which will allow you to get it riding now and will be perfectly capable of a 4-5mi round trip.
Cable Cutters ($20) stick to the better units but probably no need to go for Park Tool. BBB make a nice one, although I currently have an IceToolz cable cutter because I can't find my good ones.
For the brakes you will need a 4th hand cable stretcher like this Pedros ($17) unit which is a third the cost of a Park Tool unit.
Will also need cables, easiest way is to grab a DIY Jagwire ($24) kit which has both brake and shift cables.
These Vittoria Zaffiro tyres are a good compromise of value, durability and performance. I use these a lot and they're on my training bike. Will also need tubes, and being a commuter, flats are not your friend so these Schwalbe tubes are a good idea. ($60)
Arundel cork bar tape ($20)
A new chain for your bike is probably the only way forward, and this KMC is perfect ($6)
The brake pads on your calipers will now doubt be old, and also a 30yo pad compound, so not overly efficient. Would strongly recommend these Kool Stop Continental brake pads as a starting point before we get to Phase 2 ($10)
Grease for the Bottom Bracket and Headset (and wheel hubs) is also needed, but there's absolutely no need to buy bike-specific grease, so this Valvoline tub as an example would be ideal ($10) .
The chain needs to be lubed, and in dry conditions I like Finish Line dry lube. Others will have their own preferences, but this is a good starting point.
Also should think about replacing the saddle, but this is very subjective and not something that can be recommended in terms of which saddle to buy. Maybe scoot around Craigslist for your area and see what comes up..
In terms of learning the skills, the Park Tool video channel is surprisingly good although heavy on product placement and endorsement although this is to be expected. There are lots of alternatives to Park Tool tools though, including Pedro's, BBB and others. None of the skills associated with your era of bike are all that difficult, and refurbishing this to be usable in your context is completely feasible in your garage.
May also want to consider buying one of the entry-level bike toolkits like this tool kit as a starting point ($40) although this is just an example however is the same kit as others sell just rebranded.
So phase 1 (not including the tool kit) is about $160-ish and watching a bunch of videos.
sorry for the essay, but once I started it just sort of kept going. Phase 2 is removal of existing driveline, and upgrading to a Shimano 2x8sp indexed group with modern dual pivot calipers and modern alloy wheels. But we can cover that later.
No, but similar. It's [this one] (https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469891298&sr=8-1&keywords=super+lube) There's a bit of grease still clinging to the gears, in a film, so I think i'm just applying too much
What I use https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494483488&sr=8-1&keywords=super+lube
Go for this one if you want a 3oz tube.
Alternatively, 82340 works great.
Can you post a link of the product(red lithium grease from Walmart). I saw your pics back when and looked at walmart and couldn't find it, I got some white lithium grease on Amazon. Did you buy the syringe at Walmart also?
Yes. If you outer chamfer the tube edge, it will prevent the tube edge from catching on the o-ring.
Additionally, you can lightly lube the o-ring (see Super Lube 21030 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), 3 oz Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI/). Lubing will allow the tube to go in much easier while still maintaining a seal. You want the lightest coating you can do. I use a foam tip art brush applicator.)
You can go with Techkeys, or 1UpKeyboards, or I typically will use Superlube (there are a couple different types of lubricant under that brand, so make sure you are getting the right one) The one I linked above has worked great for me.
Don't overdo it, look up a guide.
And remember to put your stabs in before you solder. I've screwed that up twice.
there are some videos here... about disassembly - get your self some silicone grease and put 'Small smear' of grease on the seal before you reassemble the converter. One small tube is basically a life-time supply - several brands to choose - just make sure it is a clear silicone grease Some pen companies sell it as well - example
yea, it comes in nearly the exact same can as the solvent WD-40
https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Protective-Lithium-Grease-STRAW-SPRAYS/dp/B00L4QZ1VC/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=white+lithium&qid=1574174389&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyOE1SQlNZVEVIRjJYJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjU5MDQ0MVBaS0ZZUFQ1VUFRUyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMzI4OTEyMUpFNFJUVUswS1hBWiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
I'm getting my YMD96 kit delivered on Thursday. I want to clip and lube my stabilizers based on Kim's video.
I can find Dielectric Grease locally here in Toronto but I can't find any Finish Line Teflon Grease, or any other teflon grease for that matter.
Ordering 205g0 will take 6-10 days from Apex. Here are my other, immediate options:
Would anyone of those be a replacement for 205g0 or teflon grease to lubricate the stabilizer housing?
Any reason to go with Super Lube over Permatex to lube the metal bars?
They do make "gun grease." However, there's nothing special about it and it's just repackaged grease in small tubes that are actually pretty convenient.
Go to your local auto parts store and buy yourself a 1 lb. tub of Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease. It'll cost you less than $10 and that'll be about what you pay for 1 oz. of "Gun Grease." The only limitation to this is that you can't throw it in your shooting bag and keep it handy whenever you're shooting.
If you want a tube of something, I like Triflow or Krieghoff Gun Glide.
At the end of the day, though, it's most important to keep the grease clean. When you're done shooting, wipe it off and reapply.
I believe that grease is actually ideal for bearings over oil in terms of longevity of the application and I was recommended some superlube synthetic PTFE grease. It’s pretty cheap on amazon and there are printable bearing packers on thingiverse you can use to get it all the way in the races. (Just noticed you said you didn’t have access to it!)
I actually didn’t have grease when I built it so I used some synthetic PTFE oil on the rods and that has seemed to be fine. From the good article below, the important thing is that you don’t apply different (synthetic vs. non-synthetic) lubricants at the same time. Hence ideally you degrease the oil they are shipped in with isopropanol before applying more oil/grease. However, I read that the shipping oil is synthetic so I just applied the synthetic PTFE oil to the rods without de-greasing. I am just about to tear down and revise the bearings with grease the proper way myself actually.
So bottom line is that if your oil with PTFE is synthetic you can just apply it directly, but the ideal would be to de-grease and then apply grease of your choice.
Here’s a great resource (though the link is borked with the new prusa site—google “set your bearings straight” and it’s the first one that comes up): https://prusacommunity.com/set-your-bearing-straight/
And the superlube: Super Lube 21030 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), 3 oz Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7yCWCb21H21WM
Thingiverse link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3328377
I use high temp grease like you'd use in a grease gun to lube bearings, the particular brand is "Mobil grease xhp 222" but any decent grease should work. here's a link to the stuff I use, that lil mini grease gun thing the show in the recommended items is super fucking handy too.
https://www.amazon.com/Multipurpose-Grease-XHP-SPECIAL-14-1/dp/B009VGEEM4
But I kinda go overboard and grease all possible contact points, like where the trigger bars ride against the frame, and I'll put a dab on the rear cage then smush it in with my finger so it can get worked into all the surfaces there and slicked everything up. Basically if any 2 pieces of metal are gonna touch I like them to be greased, the firing pin gets a tiny amount of oil, like 2 drops at most, and then I cycle the gun by hand a bunch and wipe up any excess.
Some q-tips and toothpicks make applying it a lot easier, that lil grease gun is a God send though, I highly recommend it.
And yeah the best part of the comp is how bad ass it looks, my brother was flipping out like "this shit looks like something out of metal gear" lol
Don't use anything that can eat away at the plastic in your linear bearings. Highly suggest Super Lube Synthetic Grease
https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=asc_df_B000XBH9HI/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167152075853&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17297344115033260690&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9027607&hvtargid=pla-315922229188&psc=1
What i use on my printer, same model and rebrand name.
probably a readily available NLGI 1 or 2 ("peanut butter" consistency) general purpose grease, maybe http://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-VV608-Multi-Purpose-Automotive-Industrial/dp/B000GAP43C . A similar grease should be available in pretty much every auto parts store.
I use Super Lube in my old S-K ratchets. Made them a lot quieter and very smooth.
Honestly thought, I don't think it really makes much of a difference what grease you use, as long as it's not low viscosity so it doesn't seep out of the ratchet.
Dielectric lithium grease
I used this and it is better: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HBNV58/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Save yourself $20 and grab this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XBH9HI
I lubed up my Hog 2 years ago and while I'm about due for a re-apply, it's still smoother than it was OOB. It has not eaten the plastic.
I use this stuff. It came highly rated by some prominent GH'ers, and it made the stabilized keys on my V80 sound, and feel, so good!
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000XBH9HI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's 10 quid right now but I only paid £4.50, so maybe shop around a little more?
Like these? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0081JE0OO/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1517763063&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=super+lube+silicone+grease&dpPl=1&dpID=41r5t-pNsNL&ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000XBH9HI/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1517763063&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=super+lube+silicone+grease&dpPl=1&dpID=31-xhQ8JfAL&ref=plSrch
here's what I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XBH9HI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Depends on the plastic. If you are referencing automotive lubes then yea dont use lithium grease for auto plastics. But for the plastics in analog sticks, it should be fine.
Personally I use this for my game stuff.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C15MUU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I used this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XBH9HI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and they accidentally sent me an entire box of like 10 tubes (lol) but it worked.
I also found that I needed to loosen the tension plates a bit to et the resistance I wanted
This stuff is what I just grabbed. Will be here tomorrow.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/cr/B000XBH9HI/s=sd/ref=mw_dp_cr?qid=1426043923&sr=8-1 love this stuff and is very good for so many things.
WD-40 will get you most of the way there, but you really want something with a higher viscosity, like white lithium grease. For $5 you can get enough to fix every squeak on campus: https://www.amzn.com/B00MIWVKPM/
Edit: you can also put in a service request through your Cal Poly portal, but that will take forever.
Don't bother with Krytox. Just get some Superlube grease and oil and lightly mix them to reach your desired thickness.
Grease: https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1524756523&sr=1-3
Oil: https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-51004-Synthetic-Viscosity/dp/B000UKUHXK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1524756288&sr=8-2
Your desired thickness is up to the user. I was previously using very thin mixture (maybe 80% oil, 20% grease) which was OK, but I tried 70% grease, 30% oil, and I found that I preferred the thicker mixture.
$34 for fucking grease. Hahaha. Here:
https://www.amazon.com/Tri-Flow-TF23004-Clear-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000C15MUU
https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-37565-Silver-Anti-Seize-Lubricant/dp/B0006Q7H2W
I have Prime, and even with prime there is a minimum order of $25 or they won't ship it out.
For example i need some grease, but couldn't order without adding more to my cart. These are called Add-on items