Best parts according to redditors

We found 2,301 Reddit comments discussing the best parts. We ranked the 1,259 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Powersports body parts
Powersports suspension & chassis
Powersports brake products
Powersports controls
Powersports electrical products
Powersports engine parts
Powersports exhaust parts
Powersports filtration products
Powersports fuel system products
Powersports drive train parts
Powersports ignition parts
Powersports wheels & tires

Top Reddit comments about Parts:

u/Frostiken · 28 pointsr/MosinNagant
  1. Cap the end of the barrel. I ate a bunch of cheese and made a wax cap. Bonus, you get to eat cheese for this step.

  2. Pour a bunch of Kroil in the breech. Do this outside in case the wax cap doesn't hold.

  3. Let it soak for 24 hours.

  4. Uncap it, pour that foul shit out, go to town with a bore brush. Scrub and scrub and scrub some more.

  5. Rifle is fine. Shoot any remaining corrosion out.
u/OfficialTriceratops · 28 pointsr/buildapc

[This might work] ( it had all the keys so you can test them out yourself

u/Nimrodor · 22 pointsr/buildapcsales

WASD's better switch tester is always $16.

If you don't mind using Aliexpress, a 4-switch Cherry mx tester is under $4. Mine took 10 days to arrive with free shipping.

Either way, though, switch testers are a poor way to select a switch. Typing on a keyboard is really the only way; switches feel very different when you slowly press them down one at a time on a tester. Go out to a hardware store or a meet and try things out; it's free, and it'll give you a much better idea of what you're looking for.

u/NoirFloor · 18 pointsr/MouseReview

I bought these for the tape
Talon grips, material is very rubbery and doesnt peel away easily when heated with a blow dryer.

u/JVonDron · 11 pointsr/motorcycles
  1. Consider upgrading to a 600+ cc bike. It doesn't have to be a Bonneville, but doing tons of miles on a small bike is terribly boring. A 250 can do it, but for a ton of straight back roads, you'll want to go 70-80mph.

  2. Don't wear a backpack, put everything in your luggage or pockets. Wearing a backpack that for much bouncing is going to fuck up your back and shoulders, wearing you out faster.

  3. If you plan on hitting national parks (plural), you can buy an $80 annual pass and you're gtg for all of them.

  4. Raingear isn't as important as cold gear. Warm gloves and another layer will keep you on the road longer. Rain gear is nice to have, but usually you can stop for a bit or something as it passes. Cold days don't go away, and from now to mid October, anything north of Colorado or 6000ft can get cold.

  5. Supplies needed are going to be super minimal. There's not that many stretches where you are more than 20 miles from a gas stop, supermarket, or other store. Most of the stuff needed to live (snacks, toiletries, etc.) can be picked up as you go. What gets harder is motorcycle specific gear, so get that sorted first.

  6. Throttle Lock, you're welcome. Just being able to rest your hand for a bit is a godsend.

    As far as actual route goes, I'm not much help. Most of my trips are usually upper Midwest/Mountain area, and that's quite out of your way. Stay off freeways if you can help it, ask locals, and have fun just wandering around. Doing a long trip is a bit scary, but I did 7100 miles in 19 days the first year I was riding, so I'm sure you can do it.

    Edit: there's lots of killer roads out there, but one that I know of that shouldn't be terribly out of your way is 128 out of Moab.
u/fruitlewps · 9 pointsr/Harley

I got the Daymaker knock off for my '16 Sportster from Amazon for $50 and it's been perfect. Bight as all hell. and was a breeze to install.

u/freespace303 · 8 pointsr/motorcycle

I purchased one of these for my bike and swear by it. It's called a Cramp Buster and allows you to rest your palm of your hand on the throttle so you don't have to continue squeezing it. Wonderful for longer rides.

u/zakabog · 7 pointsr/IllegalLifeProTips

Yeah, pure dumb luck mostly. I received a WASD key tester along with some stuff I ordered. It must have been accidentally packed by the picker which I'm sure happens a lot, but not predictably enough for it to be useful. I also ended up ordering a WASD mechanical keyboard shortly after so it ended up costing me quite a bit.

Also received a free Dell laptop kind of in the same way. My friend ordered a Dell laptop, they sent him the wrong one, so they gave him a shipping label to return it which he did, then he received the correct laptop as well as the laptop he sent back. Dell contacted him to say they didn't receive the laptop he sent back but he has the tracking number which indicated that they received it. Dell dropped the case after that and he ended up giving me the laptop.

u/Excelius · 7 pointsr/pittsburgh

Fair point regarding peripherals you physically interact with, like keyboards and mice. I was thinking you were talking more about components like processors, RAM, and so forth. I recently went through a similar ordeal trying to find a gaming headset I liked.

Stores like Best Buy and Staples will usually have one mechanical keyboard in stock, but it's hit or miss as to whether they'll have a demo unit on display for you to touch and feel. Doesn't help much if there's a physical box in front of you, but you can't open it to get a feel for the product.

My wife has been considering a mechanical keyboard, and she actually bought this switch tester that lets you get a feel for the different switch types. It was helpful to rule out the ones I definitely wouldn't want, but without being able to see on-screen response and have an entire set of keys under hand it still wasn't the demo I would have hoped for.

(I'm conflicted between the Cherry red and brown types. Red seems to be the one you'll find most commonly in mass-market mechanical keyboards.)

u/Contact40 · 7 pointsr/Harley

Do you have quality lighting? If not I upgraded my halogen bulb to an LED headlight I found on amazon and it made a huge difference.

Amazon link here.

u/youAreAllRetards · 6 pointsr/klr650

Height should be your biggest concern.

I'm 5'11", with kinda short legs, too. I couldn't ride this bike if it were any higher. You can get lowering links, and a different seat, and you should be OK - right about where I'm at, but it may never be "like a glove" comfortable.

It will totally get the city job done. Little box on the back, and you're good to go. When they hit potholes, and nearly lose it, you'll float over like nothing. Mine is a daily commuter and a weekend warrior. There is nothing this bike won't do "pretty ok".

Riding is riding. Unless you're trying to keep up with people doing 80+, you'll be just fine. The bike is as much fun as any other bike on the street at <60mph. I've ridden with groups of guys on harleys, groups of older guys on Can-Am and Goldwing trikes, adventure bike groups, groups of kids on dirtbikes, families on atvs, and in giant packs of streetbikes on weekend evenings.

Travelling far distance ... don't do it unless you're comfortable on a bike already. Riding for hours on end can play tricks with your concentration and whatnot. If you must, and you're not that experienced, plan on a 15-20 minute break for every hour riding. Just do it.

Here's some shit that I learned the hard way:

Change the oil/filters before you go, and check the plug. Check your air filter after 1000 miles of highway/trail. Plan your trip to avoid interstate. You will be much more relaxed on smaller highways, and you won't have as many trucks and their drafts to contend with. Calculate your gas mileage at every fillup. Little problems can show up as dropping mileage before they become big problems. Put some flat stop in your tubes. Give the tires a push check before starting every time. Bring rain riding gear, and hope you don't need it. Get a throttle lock. Either a good one or a cheap one. The KLR will vibrate your hands numb, you will need to get your hand off the bars for a bit. Wear a camelback water bag. A good GPS/phone mount that offers visibility without having to look away from the road is really nice when going through unfamiliar towns. Make sure you have a usb charger if you don't have a 12v socket. for your gps/phone on the bike. Carry extra cheap eye protection. One of those ATV seat pads can help if you get a sore ass easily. Don't beeline it to your destination - make a point to include a side-trip up a mountain or something as often as you can.

I think you'll end up liking the bike, and you'll end up going on that "adventure" ride sooner than you think :)

Lanesplitting is as easy as you want it to be, with no panniers. It starts to get hairy above 60, because after that the KLR just doesn't have the instant go that you need to zip through smaller spaces. So at those speeds, you're more like a cruiser bike. But at city speeds, once you've been in the saddle a few months, it feels really small in traffic.

u/Trenavix · 6 pointsr/ebikes

Headlight Housing (Amazon)

I requested larger fork clamps for the housing to fit the DNM USD-8 since they're 42mm diameter pistons.

Headlight itself (Amazon)

Switch Set (Amazon)

Power Switch (Amazon)

And then as far as the wiring, I crimped all my wires into molex. I use JST a lot but just to be safe with higher amps, molex gives some headroom.

u/WindowShoppingMyLife · 6 pointsr/guns

If that's all you want, you could get some rubber grip tape off Amazon. I use it for my pistol, but in theory it would keep it from marking your floor.

TALON Grips Rubber Material Sheet, 5" x 7", Black

I don't know if that's what you're looking for, but it would probably get the job done. I love that stuff.

u/DaSilence · 6 pointsr/guns

> SVT-40

Is most glorious Russian Rifle.

Will not care if allthread rod is used to remove stuck round fired by filthy capitalist.

Also appreciates lubrication with most glorious KROIL prior to hammering.

u/minus8dB · 6 pointsr/bicycling

But Kroil is king of the penetrating oils.

u/LouDiamond · 6 pointsr/motorcycles

i've got a throttle lock that helps a lot:

and a cramp buster can help as well:

both are super cheap and really help on long rides.

u/eightdrunkengods · 6 pointsr/motorcycles

Get earplugs or earbuds to protect your ears (and possibly for music). Plugphones?

Cruise Control

If you need stands (i.e. if your bike doesn't have a centerstand) and chain cleaning stuff, you can get that on Amazon.

You can get supplemental tools for your toolkit and just general emergency stuff (first aid, etc) from Amazon.

If you don't have a battery tender, get one of those.

If you're going to spend a bundle on, consider using Part of the $ from your purchase will go to the charity of your choice. Costs you nothing.

u/JackPanzer · 5 pointsr/motorcycles

CC is an excellent invention. I use this on all my bikes without ECC.

u/pistolpete2004 · 5 pointsr/Harley

Do you know what particular model it is? I recently got an iron 883 and purchased this LED headlamp off Amazon and it is awesome!!! Super easy install and makes a hell of a difference at night!

LED Headlamp

u/Isorg · 4 pointsr/motorcycles

Speaking from experiance on this.

  • new chain, new sprockets, new tires.... nothing worse than having to do this while on the road.

  • comfortable seat.

  • try to keep it to 300 miles a day, anything more and you don't get to see much.

  • the gs750, a small windscreen will do wonders.

  • earplugs, or noise isolating in ear ear phones (tunes!).

  • I like my bikes to have some kind of highway pegs. if you can move your legs around helps with the circulation. If you can reach the rear pegs, use them too.

  • get one of these. Go Cruise throttle lock

  • Stay Hydrated, get a camelback, use it!

  • Have fun!
u/YourFairyGodmother · 4 pointsr/motorcycles

A little dated but mostly good stuff. I'm a little dated too but I have learned a few things in my forty years of moto touring. So I'll share.

The only time I ever eat McDonald's is when on the road and then I hit them often. The egg mcmuffin may be the best road food ever. The egg mcmuffin combo is the only thing I ever order.

Ibuprofen (Advil) is also great and easier on the stomach. If you get hurt badly, advil and aspirin taken together does wonders. My doctor brother suggested it - four hundred mile ride home with broken ribs made me a believer.

Add insect repellent to the things you should have handy, in your tank bag is best. Keep your advil / aspirin in there too. And a ChapStick thing. And a pen / pencil. My smallish swiss army knife lives in my tank bag.

A leatherman type multitool should be added to your tool kit. I keep mine in my tank bag because I use it probably daily for one thing or another. Pack a selection of cable ties (get mil spec if you can) - half a dozen each in sizes from teensy to honking big. A small roll of electrical tape and some duck tape are essential.

For years decades I packed a pocket sewing kit. A couple years ago, the first time I ever needed to use it, I found I had somehow forgotten it or maybe lost it. Snagged one at the 7-11 next morning gas stop. :-\

Don't forget chain lube! If you don't have a clever swing arm stand/lift thingy to raise your rear wheel (as I do - they're compact, lightweight, inexpensive, indispensable) just spray the parts of the chain that you can every time you gas up.

We mostly camp with a few cheap motel stays here and there. Don't try to carry cooking equipment and food and shit. Have some coffee while you strike your (minimal) camp. Jetboil stove is all you need. Starbucks Via instant coffee is pretty damn good! If you take cream and or sugar mix a batch and put in a ziplock bag. I confess to adding some cocoa powder to mine. :) Then hit the McDonald's or if you have a bit of time a local diner is even better. Freeze dried foods like Mountain House aren't horrible and all you need is your jetboil. The mac n cheese is pretty good. Add some dry sausage and you've got a fine camp meal. There's another thing I only eat when touring, beans and weenies. Last gas stop pick up a can of beans and some hotdogs. Heat it up in your jetboil. Yum. I finally broke down and bought a compact folding chair (from REI). Should have done it years ago.

A cap or hat is another great item for the tankbag. As is a flattened soda can or other kickstand plate for when the ground is soft and also useful on asphalt parking lots on hot days.

If you wear glasses, pack a spare. You have no idea what a pain (and expense) it is to deal with a broken eyeglass frame far from home.

Have a spare set of Rok straps (nobody uses bungee cords anymore). You might be very happy you did.

Make sure you have an ICE - In Case of Emergency - entry in your contacts. Insurance info - carrier, policy number etc. - you hope not to need but its good to have. I keep it on my phone in a note. It's also not a bad idea to record your credit card info in case you lose your wallet. Name, account number, customer service telephone number. Use a very basic encryption for the acct. number, say add 1 to each number or better, leave the first four digits unchanged then add 1 to each of the next four, subtract one from each of the next four, etc.

Rig a power outlet to power and charge your devices. A waterproof cigarette lighter socket is best.

A flask (get a collapsible one from REI as it's easier to pack) filled with Jameson's or fine bourbon whiskey or the like makes sitting around the campsite worthwhile. :)

ETA: throttle lock. You can't even consider doing long days without one. The crampbuster is okay but after trying the Go Cruise it's now on all my bikes.

u/itsdjsanchez · 4 pointsr/motorcycles

customTAYLOR33 (All Vehicles) Red High Intensity Grade Reflective Copyrighted Safety Rim Tapes (Must select your rim size), 17" (Rim Size for Most SportsBikes)

u/livefast777 · 4 pointsr/Harley
u/itsokimaplumber · 4 pointsr/Harley

The first thing is a Dynojet Power Vision, then pipes and getting rid of the back plate, lights, and turn signals. I’m thinking of covering the ugly intake with stickers for awhile, then a K&N. It seems like it would let more air in than the K&N.

Edit: I’m thinking this will help clean up the back end greatly

Wiipro Universal led Harley Davidson Light Strip Tail Brake Stop Turn Signal 32LED 8" Flexible led light for motorcycle

u/JakeFortune · 4 pointsr/scooters

Definitely stand up. If not, you'll possibly run into issues with fuel getting in to the evap canister and even issues with how the oil reservoir is filled. To do the best job strapping it down, you might want to look into a set of Canyon Dancers like this

u/nnerf1 · 4 pointsr/motorcycles
u/MontyZari · 4 pointsr/klr650

I just made my first camping long road trip(1000miles) in march and had a great time. First let me say that nothing about a motot trip is comfortable. I have modded my KLR every which way and while it helped a lot it was still miserable at times. That being said I cant WAIT to do it again. SO WORTH IT.
This is in no way an official list, this is just MY list:

  • TOOLS - Along with the KLR tool kit bring a socket for every major bolt as well as allen keys and Channel lock pliers big and small(imo)
  • If you dont know how to remove\change a tire LEARN BEFORE YOU LEAVE
  • Seat. I have a bony butt and have problems with long hours on the flat KLR seat. I tried several seats and ended up keeping the SeatConcepts commuter. The pan offered a variety of positions that would change pressure points and i stayed on the bike all day.
  • Highway pegs to go with the seat.
  • A proper windshield - I bought the KLRDash(love it, im 6'3") to mount charger and phone and it works really well with my medium Kawasaki windshield i got from the dealer
  • Throttle lock - i have this and with a zip-tie it works great
  • Some way to charge your stuff(i have a usb plug wired to my batt)
  • Phone mount for gps
  • Tank Bag- map, microfiber, chargers, snacks, knife, firearm(with proper licensing) ect..ect..
  • I bought tusk panniers but there are a hundred ways to pack gear that don't require purchases
  • A long cord lock of some sort to secure your gear. Sometimes you'll leave your bike and you cant bring all your stuff with you. i use a Walmart bike lock and honestly surprised i haven't lost any gear lol
  • EAR PLUGS - Headphones are nice, helmet Bluetooth is better but there are just some times when NO noise is the best noise
  • Prepare for colder temperatures than you're expecting. I've only had to make this mistake once lol
  • bring a qt of oil and check your levels OFTEN.

  • 16t front sprocket
  • Proper tires for terrain you expect to encounter
  • lowered pegs(if needed)
  • handlebar risers(if needed)
u/mrgreywater · 4 pointsr/Motorrad

On the R1200R, the gps is connected with the 12V auxiliary power cable which is switched on with the ignition. This cable can be acquired at your bmw motorcycle shop: hornig

You take this cable, and connect the proper leads (see description of the link above) with this usb power regulator: ebay/amazon

I've tried a few different 12V to 5V usb regulators, but this is the only one that charges the phone consistently with 2 Amps. Most other regulators I've tested don't supply a consistent 5V when the bikes 12V fluctuates (e.g coming to a stop/accelerating/switching to highbeam) causing the phone to drop to a lower charging speed.

I've found an adapter plate to mount that usb regulator to the handlebar in a local bike shop (standard ~28mm diameter socket) for $5. You can probably also cut a piece of plastic/metal like this and mount it with a handlebar screw. Alternatively: twistedthrottle

To hold your phone, Ram Mounts X-Grip works best (though expensive). You can replace one bolt on the handlebar for an anchoring point: hornig/amazon.

The best/most secure throttle lock I've found is brake away: . You would have to measure the available space and handlebar diameter to choose the right one though.

u/z3dster · 4 pointsr/buildapc

there are switch testers, bought one to play with before I bought my mx black cougar, then my mx black steelseries 6vg2, then my mx black rosewill...

u/mrselkies · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

>Switches, where can I try them? is there anything like blues that aren't loud?

You can try out switches by buying a switch tester like this one. I'd say the closest thing to feeling like blues without the click would be cherry MX clears.

> are reds hard to type on?

I wouldn't say they're hard to type on, but that's a bit subjective. Reds are Cherry's lightest switch offering, so someone who likes very heavy switches might find it difficult to type on them, but for someone who's just getting into this stuff or doesn't have a particular preference there isn't anything about Reds that make them hard to type on. They're linear switches, meaning they don't have a click or bump for the actuation, they're just straight force all the way down to bottom-out.

>What is your personal favorite?

Right now my personal favorite is linear switches, with a force somewhere in between reds and blacks. I'm currently using cherry MX black switches and I have some springs that I'm going to modify them with to make them just a bit lighter.

>TKL or full size? seriously have no idea what to do here

This is all about how big you want your keyboard to be. Personally I started out with a full size but with each keyboard I got from there, I went smaller and smaller as I found that there are a lot of keys on a keyboard that I just don't use. I went with TKL and loved it, then tried out some of the smaller sizes like 60%, 65%, and 75%. I decided I liked the 60% but needed my arrow keys so I settled on 65% with my Clueboard.

>RGB is it worth it?

If you're into backlighting RGB is great. There are a few keyboards that are great, solid keyboards that get recommended a lot here that have RGB. Check out the CoolerMaster Masterkeys Pro S and L (S is TKL and L is fullsize) and the Ducky Shine 5.

>macro keys/volume controls are they worth it?

This is something that's pretty much non existent in the higher quality enthusiast-grade boards. You can get volume controls through function keys and such but dedicated volume controls are rare (pretty much just the Das Keyboard 4 that I can think of) and macro keys are very much nowhere except for cheap, badly built "gamer" boards by Razer, Corsair, etc. You'll find that the mk community is all about less is more as far as keyboard sizes go, so adding more keys just to do undefined "macros" with is the opposite of what the community's going for. Instead, it's all about reducing the size of the keyboard and adding more functions to existing keys for more efficiency. For example, a lot of people forego dedicated arrow keys and instead have arrow keys on Function+WASD. Personally I like my arrow keys but that's the idea. The highly sought out keyboards in the community are mostly fully programmable, so basically every key becomes a "macro key" at that point.

u/olbaze · 4 pointsr/pcmasterrace
  1. Get yourself a key switch tester to find out which Cherry MX switch you like best. There is no "best" switch, regardless of whether we're talking gaming or typing.
  2. Find a keyboard from a good brand that carries said switch. For most cases, Coolermaster has the Master Keys Pro lineup that comes with white, RGB or no backlight. For the rarer switches (e.g. Cherry MX Green), go with something like Code V2.
  3. Here is a quick summary of the different Cherry MX switches. Tactile means there is a bump partway down the keypress that will tell you when the press has activated, good for typing to make you type faster. Linear means that there is no such bump. Clicky means that the bump will also result in a physical click for an audible feedback as well. Clicky switches are quite loud due to this. The Soft/Medium/Stiff refers to how easily the switch will go down: Softer switches are easier to press, with benefits being less finger fatigue over extended periods of typing, but also making bottoming out more common, resulting in more noise and slower typing.

    Personally, I went with Coolermaster's Master Keys Pro L RGB for the following reasons:

  • It has RGB and does not require software (except for fine tuning the effects)
  • It has a numpad.
  • It has a standard key layout (unlike Corsair or Razer) and uses Cherry MX switches (unlike Logitech or SteelSeries), making customizing or replacing parts/keycaps easy.
  • It has media shortcuts in a location that makes sense: The Navigation cluster (Ins/Del, Home/End, PgUp/PgDn), rather than the more common F-keys. F-keys are bad because it can result in accidentally pressing the f-key together with Ctrl or Alt, with results varying from Alt-F4 (close program) to Ctrl-F5 (refresh with no cache in web browsers).
  • It does not add extra side to the keyboard for the sake of a logo (e.g. Razer, Corsair, Logitech) and is compatible with third party wrist rests (unlike Corsair or Logitech).
u/wishful_cynic · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

It's no different than people wanting a pen that feels nice on paper and in their hand. Anyone who spends time inputting text appreciates a high quality instrument with a nice feel.

How do you use your keyboard?

Do you value the number pad?

How hard do you press the keys?

Is backlighting important to you?

I recommend buying this switch tester from Amazon to see which switch feels best to you. They're all Cherry MX switches, which are the most common switches that you'll find on boards from Amazon or (another online vendor with free shipping).

u/Dreizu · 4 pointsr/pcmasterrace

If you haven't experienced any of the switches, I highly recommend buying a key switch sampler like this

u/[deleted] · 3 pointsr/MTB

The caps are not reverse threaded. If the bolt is stuck on, use some WD-40, but if you can get ahold of Kroil, that'd be even better. Just put some around the edges, and let it seep in. Leverage is your friend use it, and if you have to, use a mallet to give the key a little love tap to break it free. Make sure your Alen Key is not rounded, if it is, grind it down, or even buy a new one. If the cap is rounded, you'll have to use a torque key in a size equal or above the equivalent alan key size. They are your best friends when removing rounded bolts.

It looks like your crank arm puller is missing the top cap, and or might not be long enough. So when you're tightening the handle, it's not actually pushing against anything. All crank pullers do, is push/pull the crank off of the spindle. You might need to get a little Macgyver.

Just as a side note: Bottom brackets are revers threaded on one side. A trick to remembering what's what: when you pedal, you're loosening the BB, same with pedals. It's designed that way so that you never over tighten the threads from riding.

u/Kjata_ · 3 pointsr/FZ07

I'm just going to list a bunch of shit (that I like) and you can skip over the mods that either too expensive for you or mods that do not appeal to you. Note, the links provided are the cheapest I could find. However, I encourage you to do your own research. Ok here we go:

OES Frame Sliders

Akrapovic Carbon Full Exhaust

Motodynamic Tail Tidy

Sequential Tail Light

CNC Shorty Brake Levers

R6 Throttle Tube

K&N Air Filter

Ermax 39cm Wind Screen


Puig Naked Wind Screen

Shorai Lithium Ion Battery

LED Turn Signals

Pirelli Angel GT Tires

MT07 Radiator Guard

u/Jdubya24 · 3 pointsr/FZ07
u/Prima13 · 3 pointsr/amateurradio

I didn't have a tutorial, but here's what I did.

  • 12v 35Ah battery - extremely heavy but cheap and powerful. If you're looking to go lighter, or if you don't need as much power, I'd suggest something smaller.

  • Big plastic ammo-type box holds the battery and other parts and keeps the wiring hidden.

  • One of these allows me to hook the battery in between my home power supply and my home rig, turning the whole thing into an uninterruptible power supply that also charges the battery. If the power goes out, rig instantly switches over to battery.

  • Added a solar panel charge controller for charging the battery from solar while I'm in the field. I have a 60w panel that I propped up against the truck on Field Day, worked great.

    Here's the end result with some input and output connectors on the outside of the can, as well as a volt meter, USB charge ports and a switch so that the parasitic load from the Astron box doesn't kill it while not in use.

    The hookup inside the box is relatively simple:

  • Solar charge controller is wired directly to the battery. Does nothing if there's no solar panel connected to the box.

  • Astron power box is wired to the battery with 30A fuses on both positive and negative wires. Output side of the power box goes to the output jacks on the outside of the box, but passes through the lighted 30A switch so I can shut it off.

    It's really that simple. This box kicked ass on Field Day, ran my Kenwood TS-50 and AT-50 all day with the solar panel keeping the battery topped off. Ran the system long after dark until I was too tired to work any more.

    If you have more questions, look me up.
u/LeoAndRebeca12 · 3 pointsr/CalamariRaceTeam

I've got something nearly identical to this one.

Had it on my bikes for about 8k miles and it hasn't loosened or shown signs of strain. I never take it off the throttle unless I'm switching it from one bike to another, so its lived a rough life. Its great for road trips and the throttle doesn't gradually slide back to closed, either. Set it for 80 and that bitch will go 80 all day long.

u/broken_cogwheel · 3 pointsr/SVRiders

I just bought some cheapo bar-end mirrors off amazon for my yamaha build... Something like this...

u/Cam_Abyss · 3 pointsr/Triumph

SW Motech tank bag

Ram Mount Ball Holder Arm

Note that I dremeled the ball to contour it to the handlebars and I bought a different bolt to use

u/jenbanim · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

You should try getting a switch sampler to see for yourself. I haven't tried the blues, but the clears are exactly what I was looking for in terms of being tactile, but not loud. But bear in mind there is definitely a break in period with these ones. At first they feel kinda rough as they slide, but that goes away with use.

u/hprx · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I had no idea what it would be like, so I ordered a key tester from amazon.

The exact one I got was:

Both the original and chiclet keyboards have a slight bump to them, but the chiclet are a lot less force to push down. After trying it out, I realized I liked typing with the least amount of pressure, hence, the reds which are linear. The browns are very close to the X60 and X200 keyboards.

I was actually considering getting a DIY version and putting in Mattias switches.

u/n8jeff · 3 pointsr/starcitizen

It's a Mechanical Keyboard switch tester. Basically, it has one of each of most types of Cherry MX Mechanical keyswitches, so you can figure out which kind you like best before committing to one.

I think it's this one

u/Magic_Sloth · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Goto your local store and try the keyboards on display or buy a Cherry MX Key tester Original site Amazon

u/ElMechacontext · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I'd recommend either the Cherry Blue edition of the CoolerMaster Storm QuickFire Rapid. It's a great first TKL board, also cheap enough that you can get into it without tremendous regret if Blues aren't really your thing.

If you want to test out some switches and see what's best for you, you can get a switch tester. This one only comes with Cherry switches, but that should be enough for an intro.

u/QNeutrino · 3 pointsr/buildapc

For keyboards it should be a simple affair by the way. Most people who are saying they want to test out a keyboard are saying such because they want to test out the switch or better explained the feel of a keystroke. You can easily pick up a switch tester from amazon on the consumer level, so I assume you can pick up something like that for a store. Something like this for example.

u/Cyekk · 3 pointsr/gamingsuggestions

You'll get more traction at /r/MechanicalKeyboards/

You should get a Switch Tester to see what kind you like best.

Also, you're going to be hard pressed finding a good quality mechanical keyboard under $100, unless it's on deep sale. Don't cheap out and buy some no-name brand. This is something you're going to use every day for multiple years.

u/CamelCadre · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

If you want to get a mechanical keyboard i would suggest getting one of these:

I bought a couple keyboards (cherry mxred, and cherry mxblue) before buying that tester and found that my favorite feel is clears). Now i want to buy another keyboard....

u/ReeceTheGeese · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

If you have the money, go for the leopold. I have a magifcforce, and the build quality is good for the price, but I wasn't very impressed with the otemu switches. They were so bad that I just decided to remove them all, and replace them with box navy switches. Before buying anything though, buy a switch tester. I recommend this one. This will save you a lot of headache.

u/johnc94 · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Ah, I bought a thing on ebay that had 6 cherry switches in it red, blue, green, brown, black, and white. Whenever I was at a loading screen or watching a show I'd pick it up and play with the switches, after a week I settled on brown.

In case anybody wants it, this is similar to what I got

u/Deja-Intended · 3 pointsr/OpTicGaming

Why don't you just buy this and get switches that you like instead of trying to replicate someone else's setup?

Also consider going with any number of brands using CherryMX switches. Razer is not the be-all and end-all. You have several options at that price point for a tenkeyless keyboard without having to use a "game-ified" typeface on the keys themselves.

The following is a well-written article by a reputable website about Razer and their "award-winning, universally lauded, industry best" switches.

u/1point5volts · 3 pointsr/buildapc
u/PrimeRaziel · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Test them on store or buy an switch tester

u/baptistcreature · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Quite a few people seem to favor MX brown switches (light and tactile) for mixed use, but it's really a matter of personal preference. You might want to get a switch tester to try out a few different types before making a decision (something like this:

u/ShadyShroomz · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

would this be good for testing? I only have tried red and blue and I like blue better for typing. gaming no preference but as I said typing is more important to me.

u/PeppermintPig · 3 pointsr/bicycling

It's all about that safety-bling.

After trying different mirrors I can definitely recommend these. You might end up paying the same amount for a more flimsy bicycle mirror that doesn't hold its position and has vibration issues or has a really small surface area. This particular model has a slight convex reflection, an aero profile, and a light weight compared to a rectangular EMGO type which is heavier, flat reflecting and not at all aero. Torqued down into a suitable handlebar bracket over some electrical tape and it's super solid. I suppose you could mount these inverted (hanging down under a handlebar) assuming clearance is acceptable. I tested odd things like mounting them onto the ends of bar ends but they were simply too far out (in a bad way). The mirror does rotate all the way around at the adjustment stem to accommodate.

Another angle of my ride. Kind of like a walking stick insect or something. I am super safe in traffic and never have a blind spot if the road ends up curving.

u/iThinkergoiMac · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

A Go Cruise is the best $30 I spent on my bike.

u/lumpsr · 3 pointsr/Wrangler

Not OP, but I just installed a set of similar halos and they look amazing. I'll post pics as soon as I get unlazy.

u/Bigbore_729 · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

Wisamic 5-3/4" 5.75" LED...
Thanks here are the headlights I used.

u/Lakelife542 · 3 pointsr/Harley

I got the day lighter "knockoff" off amazon or eBay for like $60.00 with shipping. Pretty
Easy to install looks good and doesn't cost $500.00.

Wisamic 5-3/4" 5.75" Round LED Projection Daymaker Headlight for Harley Davidson Motorcycles Black 9 pcs Bulb

Comes in black or chrome.

Edit my bike is a

2013 forty eight

u/Karcinagin · 3 pointsr/sportster

I have this on my Sportster. It does work really well at night. Too lazy to make link on mobile. Wisamic 5-3/4" 5.75" Round LED Projection Daymaker Headlight for Harley Davidson Motorcycles Black 9 pcs Bulb

u/funnythebunny · 3 pointsr/Triumph

Wisamic 5-3/4" 5.75" Round LED Projection Daymaker Headlight for Harley Davidson Motorcycles Black 9 pcs Bulb

u/JDSportster · 3 pointsr/Harley

Wisamic 5.75"

Works great in my 2002, should fit the same in the '94 headlight bucket. It's a tight squeeze but it works. The light is awesome, especially compared to the OEM shitbox.

u/AdventSix · 3 pointsr/Harley

Not sure if this is exactly what you're looking for, but this is the one I have:

It's $50.99 and looks just like the Daymaker. Ive had it for about a month now and it's been great. Easy to install, no extras needed, and no issues with it so far.

u/SweatshopTycoon · 3 pointsr/MouseReview

I actually have an Abyssus V2 that I took down to 68g by removing the 10g weight that is screwed on inside and replacing the rubber side grips (which weigh another 3-4g) with this material, which grips better and is far lighter.

Definitely worth doing.

u/OtherwiseASandwich · 3 pointsr/GalaxyS8

That's a real weird decision for a phone in their "Active" line.

Go add some strips of TALON Grip to the sides. It's normally used for firearms to add additional traction for better purchase.

I actually use a strip of it on the side of my MNML case so that my fingers can get a good grip on the phone (I'm left handed, in case you're wondering why it's on that side).

u/InFortunaWeLust · 3 pointsr/MouseReview
u/BlueFamily · 2 pointsr/CalamariRaceTeam

Cramp buster isn't a throttle lock, it won't hold the throttle open when you move your hand. It's supposed to rest on the heel of your hand to hold open the throttle. THIS is about the hokiest throttle lock I'd use.

u/Nalopotato · 2 pointsr/FZ09

FYI I was already using this one which works great, but the push-button one seemed waay better and easier to use. If you're going on a long road trip, you NEED at least one of them!

And by "Dragon" I mean the Tail of the Dragon (US Hwy 129)

u/Donny-Thornberry · 2 pointsr/FZ07

Picked up a bone-stock 2017 FZ-07 two weeks ago for an absolute steal. Have been steadily adding a few mods. Let me know what you think!

Motodynamic Integrated Taillight

Motodynamic Fender Eliminator

Motodynamic Flush Front LED Signals

Amazon Shorty Levers

Reflective Rim Tape

R6 Throttle Tube (Pending Install)

Akrapovic Titanium full exhaust (Pending Install)

Cyclops 7000 Lumen LED Headlight

Tank Pads


Next up on the waiting list -

Fuel controller/remap/powercommander - still undecided which, let me know what you prefer!

x2 CRG Arrow Mirrors

Woodcraft Clip-ons

u/turnoffable · 2 pointsr/motorcycles
u/frigoffbearb · 2 pointsr/SVRiders

Whoops it's actually called customTAYLOR

my bad!

u/4z01235 · 2 pointsr/Miata

7" LED Headlights Bulb with White Halo Angel Eye Ring DRL & Amber Turn Signal Lights for Jeep Wrangler JK LJ CJ Hummer H1 H2

u/-BLAM · 2 pointsr/Jeep

These Headlights are surprisingly good for the price I Also Wired the Halo LED to a fuse that turned on when the Key is On/Running the Jeep. You'll have to adjust your headlights after but there a little t15 screw that allows you to do that (Left for lower, right for Higher, on my 2015 Sahara I can access this screw without taking the Grille off)

u/NonOriginalGangster · 2 pointsr/Harley

This headlight plugged right into my 03 Night Train without any modifications or extra parts being needed. Turn signals, on the other hand, require a load equalizer if you’re replacing all four with LEDs. I use two LEDs up front and everything works fine. Replacing all four with LED without adding an equalizer will make the bike act as if a bulb is burnt out (rapid flashing).

u/DEEJANGO · 2 pointsr/sportster

Motorcycle 5-3/4 5.75 LED Headlight for Harley Davidson 883,sportster,triple,low rider,wide glide Headlamp Projector Driving Light

u/AlexR26 · 2 pointsr/sportster

It‘s a 2000.

The fairing:

The headlight:

To install the fairing, you will need a docking hardware kit. Since I didn’t find any aftermarket kit with good reviews, I chose the genuine Harley kit:
P/N 58164-96A

I had to trim quite a bit of the fins behind the headlight to make it fit. I don’t know if my bike originally had that much wiring in there though.

u/k1lr0y · 2 pointsr/Harley

I went with this one for $50 from Amazon. Side-by-side, the only difference I can make out with an HD Daymaker is the little bar and shield w/ a light in the bottom-center. I've been running it for a few months now and it's a great light. Also, with Prime shipping, I had it two days after placing the order.

u/Santo_R · 2 pointsr/HondaCB

Ok that makes sense. I was going to use something like this. Do you have a link to an H4 reflector?
And my only worry is the mounting; the daymaker replica just pops in and is held in by an outer ring (as its for a Harley). However I believe the CB light is held in by 3 bolts? So I may have to change to a Harley style housing?

u/tokyohoon · 2 pointsr/Harley

> The lights that blockhead used i cant even find on revilla or j&p cycle.

He used an Amazon Chinese special. They're actually reasonably reliable, and there are plenty out there for Fat Bob as well. If it's Amazon, the returns policies are pretty good if it's a dud.

u/chezazarng · 2 pointsr/IndianMotorcycle

Hardest to install, very very bright: The Ultra kit has a much larger, harder to hide ballast, but you can get extensions to help hide things. With the Octane, I've got a little mini fairing around the headlight that I can use to hide the extra stuff. You'll have to figure something else out.

Easy to install, very bright but not with great cutoff:

Somewhat harder to install than the LED bulb, but doesn't require any wiring know-how, and still bright but with better cutoff: in reviews and videos online (i.e., a vlogger in Tucson where we don't have much lighting at night), and you might try that.

u/nickmartino15 · 2 pointsr/Harley
u/TrueBasedZach · 2 pointsr/MouseReview

Gun Grip works great and is pretty cheap.

If you don’t mind a rougher texture fingerboard / skateboard grip tape is awesome but can tear your hands up over time if you move your hand position a lot.

There is also a foam version for fingerboards “Tech Decks” that Ive been meaning to try.

u/dantev9 · 2 pointsr/MouseReview

TALON 998R Grips Sheet (Rubber-Black, 5 x 7-Inch)

u/Kizubot · 2 pointsr/steelseries

Here's the one I use, it comes in a pretty big sheet and is easy to apply.

u/Kr9er · 2 pointsr/GalaxyS8

I have been looking for the same thing. I have tried all of these cases and what I found is that TPU cases are not anti-slip. They are more slippery like you said. PU leather cases have some grip. I tried this one and found it fairly anti-slip. But I wasn't a fan of the way it looked.

As of right now, I'm going to get a simple TPU case and stick this on the back. It adds a ton of grip and adheres very good.

u/ridingmydragon · 2 pointsr/HondaCB

Wiipro Universal led Harley Davidson Light Strip Tail Brake Stop Turn Signal 32LED 8" Flexible led light for motorcycle

It's a cheap one, so I doubt it'll last but it looks good and works well. I just hooked the ground to a 9volt battery and mapped out the wiring, added bullet connections and hooked it up.

u/Hikingle12 · 2 pointsr/Yamahabolt

No worries!

License Plate Bracket - mounted on the side by the rear tire

Brake Light - - super glued it under the seat where visible

u/Sverfneblin · 2 pointsr/HondaRebel300

I purchased these on Amazon to fill those holes.

u/DJaeger · 2 pointsr/FZ07

God I hope this formats correctly - I am a neophyte.

Exhaust -

Super deep and loud sound - videos online don't do it justice, its unbelievably loud when the baffles are out. Had to have the cat cut out of it. Be aware they have a cat in the V section before the end of the pipe.

Removed the snorkel covering the airbox - I was told its basically blocks airflow.

ECU Flash / Dyno by 2wheelDynoWorks -

Nels himself worked on my bike - super stoked (shout out to Nate too) They have the best customer service.

Active Tune -

Tune as you go

Bike side harness -

For tuning later

Windscreen -

I got light smoke, I think it goes better with the bike and pushes wind over my shoulders even at 80+ mph

Protection -

Basically got everything from this except the bar ends

Bar Ends -

Super easy to replace mirrors etc with these - and they add protection

Throttle tube -

90 to 60 degree conversion - its amazing for the price

Dash Screen Protector -

Mirror stem deletes -

Current Mirrors -

Mirrors in photo -

I like the CRG Mirrors but they get bumped and are hard to readjust - the cheap ebay/amazon mirrors work great

Headlight replacement -

Signal replacement LED bulbs -

Super bright replacements for stock bulbs - used the original housings, they plug right in

Running light LED replacements -

For inside the headlight housing

Tail Tidy -

Flasher Relay for LEDs -

Levers -

Passenger peg deletes -

I removed the passenger pegs, needed a bracket to hold the brake fluid reservoir - also cleaned up the pegs

Havent done the brakes yet - going to replace the lines etc with steel braid.

Also want to do a sprocket / chain swap for acceleration

I used a quadlock phone mount for a little bit - but took it off because I was playing with my phone too much.

u/TitusUMMS · 2 pointsr/guns

If you're running experiments, try Kano Kroil. I haven't had the problem you are dealing with, but it is an excellent bore cleaner and lots of folks swear by it.

u/deadjennies_0o · 2 pointsr/FZ07

I have a 2016 and when I first got it home I had a real issue with lurching and choppy throttle response. I did a little reading and found out it was pretty common and that most people fixed it by changing the throttle tube.
Amazon says I bought this, although the description and price are a little different now than when I bought it.

Swapping the throttle tube was night and day. The bike responds like it should when you twist the throttle and there is no longer a choppy feeling when I shift.

u/vapeducator · 2 pointsr/scooters

A 160 mile round trip is 80 miles each way. AAA RV+Motorcycle roadside assistance covers towing up to 100 miles for 4 instances. This is the cheapest way to get your scooter there, and you'll have 2 tows left for the year.

However, I do own this motorcycle carrier that I got from Harbor Freight for under $100, using a 20% discount coupon during a sale. It works fine. I've towed 50cc, 150cc and 500cc scooters on it. It has a lower 400lb carry capacity, but it's aluminum, so it also weighs a lot less to install and stow away afterwards.

I use a Canyon Dancer II bar harness to secure the front fork and wheel securely to the carrier. I also have this set of ratcheting tie downs to secure the back of the scooter. The bar harness and tie downs are important to tightly secure the scooter down by compressing its own suspension.

U-Haul also rents motorcycle trailers rather inexpensively, but not as cheap as using AAA or having your own carrier, if you expect to need to haul the scooter more than once.

u/preeminence · 2 pointsr/Trackdays

Glue them to the bar/throttle tube better? Alternatively, buy a Canyon Dancer and don't worry about your grips at all.

u/sdriv3r · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

Simply what I am currently looking at:

2) [Throttle lock] (

Both quite cheap and help a lot for longer rides (if he is into that).

u/VirusGuy · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

Bought one of these that helped with my throttle hand cramping

Crampbuster CB4 Black Throttle...

u/darkon · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

I have something similar. About the only time I use it is on the interstate between cities -- which is what is was designed for, I suppose. I use this throttle assist thingie most of the time. Sits under the heel of my hand and keeps me from having to grip the throttle as tightly as I would without it.

u/Rojokra · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

Gloves are always a good idea, because in a lot of situations your hands are the first thing that hits the ground. However, if you have problems with getting numb hands one of these might help.

u/ParticleSpinClass · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

Just picked this up last week. I've been riding with it for 2 days and so far I like it.

u/paxtana · 2 pointsr/ebikes

Yeah I got the 2013 model, the one I linked to you is the updated version that has double capacity. Mine gets at least 20 miles, this one would do 40 no problem.

It is a nice bike, has shocks, rear light on the battery and disc brakes. The brakes are crazy good, it can stop instantly. I upgraded the tires with flatless marathon plus, installed a bottle cage and an awesome Crampbuster throttle assist, since the twist throttle can cause you to cramp up after a while. You can get extra batteries and saddle bags if you want.

Pedego's a great bike company. The bike looks nice, rides nice, and has good components. By comparison my prodeco is much more basic. But the prodeco will get you more range. I don't know if you want to sacrifice range for stylishness, but if you do that pedego's not a bad way to go. Way better than the izip anyway.

u/razzix · 2 pointsr/gpdwin

As others have said you can do this with a relatively small setup. There is a LOT to consider - HOW portable, HOW efficient, etc etc. Help me out if the below suggestions don' t meet the need I can piece together just about any system for you :P


You could get by on a small sealed lead acid battery designed for uninterruptible power supplies. They range in size but average 9 amp hours. I say get yourself a little 35 amp hour and never worry about discharge rate if you are only powering the win2 even if the sun don't shine that day. For the solar - buy BIGGER than you need - learned this the hard way with my truck camper. Right sized is great until the season changes or its overcast etc.


Check out this little starter kit - it includes the solar panel and charge controller:


Down in the frequently bought together you should see a 35ah battery - will fully charge the win2 a few times and not even feel it:


12v car charger that I use with the win2 - works great:



Plenty portable depending on your needs. Its almost as easy as color coding to setup. You can power the win2 and multiple devices if you so choose. Expandable at a later time if you choose with panel and batts. Will fit in any trunk or backseat. Hell it will fit in a big backpack (panel is 21x26). Large enough charge current to top off your battery quick even in partial sun - big enough reserve to keep you going for a couple days easily. This is just an example of an 'easy' bundle if you wanna save some more money I can show places to get these items cheaper.



If you wanna talk more DIY and are not afraid of LI-ION 18650s you can build you a safe lighter and denser battery for pretty cheap. It would be piecing together a charge controller and panel but I would say stick to 50w range - affordable and covers your power needs even in less than ideal conditions. If you wanna go more expensive but more portable flexible/foldable panels are out there too.



u/Footer4321 · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

12v. I've considered getting another and running in series to get higher charging rates. Right now I can charge at 6.8 amps on my isdt 608. U

PG 85980/D5722 Sealed Lead Acid Battery (12V; 35 AH; UB12350)

u/phidus · 2 pointsr/AskEngineers

You will almost certainly need a generator or a running car as /u/Laymanism mentioned. A dual halogen worklight will draw about 1000 watts [1]. A car battery will hold about 18 AH at 12 V [2]. Even with a perfect inverter you would only get about 12 minutes power. You could hook up a bunch of batteries in parallel, but I would recommend a generator and a long extension cord.

u/TreborEnglish · 2 pointsr/vandwellers

That's a tight budget. It is possible but you don't have room for $1000 mistakes.

It isn't really hard if you want a small system in the range of a Suaoki or Yeti. They are 400 watt hours. Divide watts by volts to get amps. 400 ÷ 12 = 33.33 They actually contain a $65 35 amp hour battery like this:

That is not compatible with a 12 volt efficient fridge. It is too small. It's simple but it won't work past the first week.

You can get a 100 amp hour battery, 3 times the size, for about $100. A 100 watt solar panel for $100, a $12 to $20 charge controller, and you have a system that can run an Alpicool C20 little efficient 12 volt compressor fridge, $250. There are you tube videos about the Alpicool.

In addition to that you need some AWG # 10 wire, fuse holders, fuses, a $10 multimeter, a $10 hydrometer and as needed sockets for USB, cigarette lighter sockets, led lights and switches. You'll need a cheap crimper and an assortment of crimp terminals. That's a total of $600, including fridge.

For charging laptop and stuff search on amazon for "car charger" and your computer brand and model. They run off 12 volts and are more efficient than double conversion 12 to 120 then 120 to 19. They go 12 to 19. If you have a device where you can't find a car charger then you need an inverter. Smaller is better.

If you want a system big enough to have all the electricity you want, double the solar panels and get a pair of 6 volt golf cart batteries.

u/paosy · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

I see you have an SV. Just buy this relay:

Its plug-n-play to the existing relay located under the seat.

That way, you won't have to worry about resistors. I have all LEDs and the relay and the flash rate is normal.

u/marteney1 · 2 pointsr/SVRiders

I'd check your turn signal relay, or just replace it since they're cheap. It may have blown with it. Here's the one I bought to work with my LED signals, but it should work for regular bulbs as well if you're not running LED's.


It is under the pillion seat, as described in this forum post. You won't need to do all the stuff he does, just pull out the old one and plug in the new one.

u/93seca2 · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

Bar end mirrors are sweet. I've had success with these:

u/astroaero · 2 pointsr/CafeRacers

You definitely sacrifice visibility. At the same time I never rely on mirrors and these don't bother me because I always turn my head regardless.

u/modge1981 · 2 pointsr/motorcycle

Get a RAM ball to replace one of your yoke screws

Motorcycle M8 Bolt Handlebar Clamp Mounting 2.5 cm Ball

Then a standard RAM arm


Then a case (plenty to choose from)

Universal Waterproof/Weather Proof GPS SatNav Case with RAM 1inch Ball Fitting for RAM Mounts (SKU 6525)

I had this setup on my Honda Deauville, works great.

u/3170 · 2 pointsr/CalamariRaceTeam

Center mount using the handlebar clamp mount

u/j4nd0 · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

My humble opinion would be that before you invest in a mechanical keyboard is to get a switch tester ( ) so you can personally feel each type and you make a decision that you will not regret.
And also if u can try to get a Varmilo, Leopold or Ducky. Don't let the "gaming" mech keyboard lure you with their "features".

u/Leang · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Yup, there are various samplers out there. This one is all Cherry MX. I would also not discount Gateron as they're very very close. This one is a bit expensive but offers both Cherry MX and Gateron. What I would do, is just get the Cherry MX tester to get a feel for the differences in linear vs tactile vs clicky. Then you can choose Cherry MX Reds (linear), or Brown (tactile), or Blue (clicky). The Chroma you have is either clicky or tactile. Good luck!

u/super_soaker_sheriff · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

If you're worried about getting the right kind of switches, you could try ordering a switch tester to get a feel for different kinds. It's a way to spend a couple bucks to make sure you're getting exactly what you want.

u/futurebb · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

that's totally cool, try them for a month, or see about getting a [cherry mx switch tester] ( and see how they compare

u/-0-7-0- · 2 pointsr/teenagers

Okay so for your first, you def want to buy a pre-built one, since building your own with parts takes both a lot of keyboard knowledge and a lot of money. I would, personally, suggest either getting a CoolerMaster (any model is good) or a Vortex Pok3r, since they both have relatively good stock keycaps and are well-priced. Before that, if you have $10-15, then I would really advise getting a switch tester so you can decide what type of switches you like. It's better than spending $100+ on a keyboard you don't like. To address your last concern of not liking the board, you can sell a "nicer" keyboard on r/mechmarket, a sub for buying and selling boards, and probably come close to breaking even. But to sell on mechmarket, you need a "desirable" keyboard, which is why I recommended getting a CoolerMaster or Pok3r. They're both pretty good boards/brands. No matter what, though, DO NOT get a Razer/Logitech/Steelseries/Corsair board. They're really overpriced, shit build quality, and nobody would want to buy them for more than 60% of retail on MechMarket.

Along with this, if you want a personal rundown and recommendations on switches, then just let me know.

Also, if you don't have as much $ to spend (or even if you do), I would suggest the Anne Pro board. It's hella good build quality for the price, and a lot of people say that the gateron switches on them feel better than MX switches (which both the pok3r and all of CoolerMaster's selections use.)

Also, I always recommend blue switches because of how nice the click feels to me (and BTW, cherry and gateron blue switches are pretty similar- most switch companies use a consistent coloring system for switches where blue is clicky, brown is tactile (semi-clicky), and red is linear (not clicky at all)) but it's all up to personal preference, so I would again suggest you get a tester or try some boards out at a local computer store to see which kind you like.

Hope all this helps!

u/Lucidiously · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

A 2080 might even be overkill for 1080p depending on what games you play, but it should last you a long time and also leaves you the option to upgrade to a 1440p monitor if you so desire.

I'm not that knowledgeable about mice and keyboards, but for a mouse you can't really go wrong with a Logitech G502.

For (mechanical) keyboards there is a lot of choice in the $50-150 range, depending on what features you want such as RGB, I know Corsair makes good ones and I've got a CoolerMaster myself that I'm quite happy with, but there are a lot of other manufacturers. You could ask the folks over at /r/MechanicalKeyboards for advice, but be warned that it's a rabbithole, before you know it you'll be looking at $250 keyboards with custom keycaps. ;)

One thing I would do when it comes to mechanical keyboards is figure out what switches you prefer, there's a lot of variation. The ones that are used the most are Cherry MX, which come in several colours denoting their function. Reds are more silent and offer no resistance, Browns are more tactile, Blues are clicky like a typewriter and Blacks are like Reds but require a bit more force push down. Those are just the most common ones, and afaik most gamers stick with Reds or Browns. A switch tester like this can help you decide, you can find them much cheaper on Aliexpress though.

u/yavultheturtle · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

How can I convert my WASD 6-Key Cherry MX Switch Tester into a macro keyboard?

u/HotRoderX · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

How about a key tester? those aren't to overly expensive and could be extremely helpful...

u/ShadyFountain · 2 pointsr/GirlGamers

I love my Logitech G402 mouse. I have fairly average hands, but I like that it's a bit narrower. It is a bit on the long side, but nothing too crazy.

For keyboards, as people mentioned, you'll want to figure out what kind of switches you want. For Cherry MX, Blue, red, and brown are the most common, but there are a whole load of other colors. Personally, I like browns because I like the tactile feedback (unlike reds), and they're fairly light and are quieter than blues. If you have a store that carries them nearby, definitely try them out. You can also get testers on amazon for about $15, depending on how many switches you want to try. This for example has the usual switches, as well as black, green, and clear, and comes with dampener rings to try as well. I've had a lot of Logitech peripherals over the years, so I ended up with the G710+ board, and I'm happy with it. It's pretty wide as it's a full board, plus has macro keys along one side, but I like having the option of using them :)

u/TheRybka · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Monster stickers, which make my computer go faster. /s

Try out Greenshot. Free program that sits in your tray and can quickly capture regions for screenshots. Has some other neat options too.

Get a headphone stand. Banana stand works too (I heard there's always money in them?).

If you want neat shit to fidget with while waiting on loading screens (like me!) consider a Cherry MX Switch Tester. Literally thinking of buying one for myself while writing this out. Seems like a neat little thing.

u/WarningTakeCaution · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

You want a switch tester, WASD makes a good Cherry one:

As for the rarer switch types like Topre and Zealios... yeah I don't know without spending too much money by buying the switches and something to mount them on. Sucks. Someone should make one massive switch tester and then pass it around r/mk

u/Yhutsa · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I can't help you with the keyboards themselves as you aren't in an area with stores, but; this might help you deciding which switches?

u/FullDerpHD · 2 pointsr/gaming

Well if price is no issue the very first thing I suggest you do is order a switch tester

This is so you can actually feel what each type of switches are like.

After that start looking at suggestions/keyboards that use the type of switches you like.

I personally really do like my K70

It's very solid and well built. Comfortable and you can use all kinds of lighting effects.

As for a mouse if you're into FPS games check out zowie products and pick one that matches your grip type well. Logitech and Razer also make good mice.

A naga like you mentioned in your other post would be a good mouse for the more casual games where you might want more buttons.

u/SomeNoob1306 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Get one of these If you don't have a place where you can demo them.

u/cweagans · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Start by choosing what kind of switches you want, and then find a keyboard that has those switches. I'd recommend grabbing one of these: It's just a row of switches on a plate so that you can hear/feel each one before you commit to an entire keyboard.

For Cherry switches (which is what that WASD tester has), you'll probably want non-clicky, which means that anything other than green or blue is a good option. Clears and browns have a small bump that you can feel as you press the key, and then red and black are just linear switches that you have to bottom out to get them to activate. There's some difference on the amount of force required to press each key too (greens are "heavier" than blues, clears > brows, black > red), so take that into account.

When you land on a switch, WASD Keyboards has a decent selection with any of the aforementioned switches.

Personally, if I couldn't have clicky switches (I like blues and greens), I'd go with clears. They're about as silent as you can get, especially if you add the O rings on the stems ( - basically, you lift off the key cap, put the o ring on the keycap stem, and then put the keycap back on. Repeat for all your keys. They prevent the keys from bottoming out and making a louder sound. Useful if you type aggressively with purpose like I do)

u/XrinkuG · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

This might not be exactly what you're looking for, but there are things like this that will let you test the switches and see if you like the feel. Beyond that, do any friends have a mechanical keyboard?

u/karn_evil · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I have browns, and I quite like them. I don't have a ton of experience on mech keyboards though (only other one was a model m which is quite different from browns.)

If you are unsure, there are test blocks you can get that have different types of switches on them.

u/fatpolomanjr · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Upvoted anyone that said to get a switch tester. At the bare minimum one with the basic cherry switches (red, blue, black, clear, green). Link. I was fortunate to mess with my cousin's Brown switches to immediately discover I hate browns.

Then you can get a hold of Zealios, Mod-x, Matias/Alps, etc. switches to test out once your mechanical keyboard obsession has taken root and grown.

u/Boom- · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

That looks like an awesome board, looks like it even comes with mouse control on the keyboard which is always a neat thing to see. What cherry switches are you going to grab? You can always grab a switch tester and decide after

Although I think that'd be called a 60%, I think 40% don't have the top number row.

u/DeathPro · 2 pointsr/gaming

I had an MX Blue keyboard for about 3 months until I just couldn't stand it anymore so I bought the same one but with browns and I love it so much the perfect amount of resistance and noise.

Here's a link to the key tester I have.

There are others with more or less keys but this one is pretty good.

u/SaltedKittyBits · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

It's all preference man. Browns are non-linear which is a preference for me in that I do a lot of typing and gaming. I'd order something like this before you purchase a new keyboard.

I certainly wish I had.

u/ZappaBeefheart · 2 pointsr/Eugene

Before dropping a lot of money on a nice keyboard, get a sample set of switches to see what your preference is.

The link below includes a test set of 6 Different Cherry MX Switches: Cherry MX Green, Cherry MX Clear, Cherry MX Red, Cherry MX Black, Cherry MX Brown, and Cherry MX Blue.

u/Audaxon · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Corsair K70 RGB can be customized using their software to get a purple backlighting effect. It's a gaming keyboard though, so it's built like a tank and a little bulkier.

Ducky Shines can have purple led backlights. They are a little more elegant for an office as well.

Cherry MX Brown switches (no click when you type, just a bump) for an office, Cherry MX Blues (audible click sound) for home. IMO, Blues are more fun.

Cheaper switches more or less follow the same color code, though a switch tester could help you decide what you like

u/powermad80 · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Various switches have certain things they're inherently a little bit better for (red switches for gaming, blues for typing, etc.) but it's entirely down to personal preference. You can read up on the wiki about what each switch is like, but the best thing you can do is buy a cherry mx switch tester, that'll let you try out each of the most common switches so you can get an idea of what kind you like.

If you have any stores in the area you can go to that sell mechanicals though, the best thing is to go there and try a bunch out yourself.

Based on the fact that you both play Osu and have other people around you though, you probably won't want the exceptionally loud blue switches.

u/KillAura · 2 pointsr/HelloInternet

Before you buy any switches, I recommend you purchase a tester set or go to a PC store to try them out. Feeling it in person can be completely different from reading about them online and your keyboard can last ages so it's important to have switches you'll like.

u/TransientBananaBread · 2 pointsr/buildapc

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU | Intel Core i7-7700 3.6GHz Quad-Core Processor | $308.74 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | ASRock B250 Pro4 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $93.98 @ Newegg
Memory | Team Elite Plus 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $95.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Crucial MX300 275GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $89.88 @ OutletPC
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $49.33 @ OutletPC
Video Card | MSI Radeon RX 480 8GB ARMOR 8G OC Video Card | $219.99 @ Amazon
Case | Fractal Design Define C ATX Mid Tower Case | $79.99 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA G3 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $79.99 @ Jet
Wireless Network Adapter | Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I REV 4.2 PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter | $29.99 @ SuperBiiz
Monitor | LG Neo Blade III 24.0" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor | $249.00 @ B&H
Keyboard | Glorious PC Gaming Race Glorious Gaming Wired Gaming Keyboard | $99.99 @ Amazon
Mouse | Logitech G502 Wired Optical Mouse | $57.98 @ Amazon
Speakers | Logitech Z200 0W 2ch Speakers | $20.99 @ Best Buy
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1475.84
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-02-10 20:52 EST-0500 |


  • If you are planning on seriously getting into animation or rendering, you will want an i7 for the hyper threading. If you stick with the 7600K though, you will need to get a Z270 motherboard or you risk getting a motherboard whose BIOS needs to be updated to use the 7600K. Gave you a locked 7700 and changed the MOBO and removed the cooler (7700 comes with one).

  • An RX 480 will do 1080p 60 FPS just fine and save you quite a bit of money.

  • Since you are more focused on productivity, I gave you a case with no window and noise dampening insulation. If you need a lot of storage space, get the R5.

  • 550W is plenty for the build.

    For keyboards, it really comes down to personal preference with all the options available. See if you have a local shop that has some mechanical keyboards you can try (Best Buy might have some as well). If that isn't an option, buy a switch tester to try and get an idea what kind of feel you want on your keyboard.

    I don't know enough to comment on the monitor.
u/Chouzetsu · 2 pointsr/streetwear

If you're ever unsure about which switch you can always get a switch tester. There's this one which has 6 different Cherry switches to sample but no Topre. Cooler Master dropped one that included a Topre switch a few months ago on Massdrop, that's the one I got. Maybe they'll do it again

u/boardingtheplane · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Yeah they sell them on Amazon for around $10-20. Worth it if you know you'll be interested in acquiring more/customizing.

Here's an example of a decent Switch Tester. Even comes with O-rings! You can try a few of them out on your board now to see if you like the dampening.

I noticed you spelled customization with British English, so here's one I found on Amazon UK.

u/zaxfee · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Correct. Here is a link to one on amazon for $16.

I have gone through about 4 keyboards just trying new switches. I later found these and for $16 it would have saved me some cash.

u/adino24 · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

You can test it yourself with one of This from Amazon
there is a lot of options on eBay

This way you will fill most of the Cherry MX Switches.

There is a lot other switches brands, But I have no experience with them

u/Granpire · 2 pointsr/DotA2

You should be asking over at /r/MechanicalKeyboards/, not /r/dota2.

The benefits of mechanical keyboards are mostly comfort and feel, it sounds like you're overestimating the usefulness of them. They will not make your clicking/searching 3 times more efficient. Unlike a gaming mouse, the benefits of a mechanical keyboard for gaming will be minimal at best.

If you're not sure what switches you want, something like this switch tester might be up your alley. If noise is an issue, Cherry MX Browns sound good for you. They're low stiffness and have a tactile bump but no click, which makes them good for typing.

Even non-clicky mechanical switches will always make noise when they bottom out, so you might want to invest in some O-Ring noise dampeners.

u/ComputerMystic · 2 pointsr/pics

Honestly, just grab one of these to get a feel for how each switch feels / sounds, then order a keyboard online with your preferred switch type.

u/MyNameIsRay · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

If you're looking for a step up from your average $15 Dell membrane board, you're going to be looking at a mechanical.

Cherry makes the reference quality switches, reds are smooth (gaming focused), browns have a tactile click (best of both worlds), blues have a tactile and audible click (loved by typists, hated by anyone who cares about noise).

You can get a sampler to see which you prefer before dropping some cash on a full keyboard.

I'm partial to the Corsair options, K60/K70/K90 depending on whether you want a tenkeyless, traditional, or extra macro buttons.

u/fuegotown · 2 pointsr/AskProgramming

I switched to mechanical a few years back and won't go back to dome keys. I have a cherry blue at work and a brown at home. Both from Cooler Master. They are relatively cheap for what you get. The model is the Quick Fire Rapid. It says "Gaming Keyboard" but I use them mostly for programming and gaming.

If you are going to go mechanical, I'd recommend buying one of those tester boards with one of each switch on it like this

I found both of my keyboards on amazon. Each was less than $80 US.

u/PM_ME_UR_LAB_REPORT · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I'm using Cherry MX browns right now. I was using a keyboard with blues for a while, but I wanted to go for something a bit quieter and with a lower actuation force (it's a small difference in force but I don't know, it definitely makes a difference for me).

Before I made the change I bought this so I could try the different kinds of Cherry switches. It was really helpful, I feel like there's really no substitute for feeling the differences between the switches yourself!

u/Jupakazoid · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I'd highly recommend you try a key switch tester. The switches are 100% subjective. For example I'd rather use a membrane free piece of junk than a linear cherry switch. I hate them so much. That's my opinion though and some people hate the greens I use.

This is a great one with 6 of the most common key types.

u/padfootprohibited · 2 pointsr/wow

Very nice build! I'll second the Samsung EVO SSDs--I see a lot of people recommend the Pro ones, and I don't quite understand why, they're pricier for not a lot of (consumer-level) performance increase. EVGA graphics cards are a bit pricier than their competitors, but the customer service is absolutely worth it.

I think you'll be very happy with the 970--I'm still running on a three-year-old 670 with a single 23.6" 1080p monitor, and it still holds 60+ FPS at Ultra in Mythic raiding.

I know little about the EVGA PSUs other than that I see them recommended a lot; another brand to look for is Seasonic, from whom all models are recommended. Avoid Corsair PSUs, especially those of the CX series--I've seen more than one fail after people insisted I use them for their builds.

Regarding a keyboard, I highly recommend mechanical switches--you may want to play around with them and see what you like. Amazon offers a sampler of the six most common switch types for $15, which is well worth it for the money you're about to spend on the keyboard itself. Here I do recommend (Corsair keyboards)[] over the Razer ones you'll see a lot--the build quality is significantly better and they're overall (I've found) far more comfortable to type on.

I agree wholeheartedly with the earlier commenter who suggested you take a look at (Logical Increments)[!/]. Their Parts Information (green bars below the big chart) has a lot of information about what the various parts do, what brands are good, and where you can skimp a little vs. what's really worth the money. They have a (page about World of Warcraft specifically)[] that discusses what components the game taxes more.

Good luck, OP!

u/lostxprophit3 · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Don't forget you're also able to buy Switch testers! They're about $20 - $25 online, and there's some for Cherries. They're usually a 6-Key Tester that come with some blank keycaps.

Tester from WASD on Amazon:

8-Key Tester with O-Rings, also on Amazon:

u/CamperJeff · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Keyboard - If you can't test them for yourself, buy this and test them out. See which one you like the most.

5820K will absolutely outperform Skylake outside of your video game use. After DX12, it will even outperform the 6700K in video games. As of right now the performance difference in video games is fairly negligible though. Don't be turned off by the clock speed. You should be able to overclock past 4GHz with a somewhat high end CPU cooler.

That wifi adapter works very well.

2-3 fans are plenty. 1-2 in the front, 1 in the rear for exhaust. Don't really need more than that. Will just add noise and will only help temperatures by 2-3 degrees, and that is being generous. Literally a waste of money and time to install. I suggest you watch this video.

u/FlutterWolf · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Heyo. Another question here. I want to buy a new keyboard, but i'm not entirely sure about which switches I want. I'm planning on purchasing this: . Can anyone tell me if this is worth the $16?

u/Release_the_KRAKEN · 2 pointsr/CasualConversation

You need to know how to solder to customize shit? Do you mean just switching key caps or?

For point 2, I think you should try and go to a nerdy computer store (I don't know where you are but in Canada, I would say the difference between a regular store and a Nerdy store would be like Futureshop vs Canada Computers or NCIX) and play around with different keyboards or try out a cherry key tester. Basically a piece of plastic that has all the colors of the Cherry MX keys (red, blue, black, brown, green, and in some cases, but rarely, white). Figuring out what kind of keys you want is going to be one of the biggest issues for you. Personally I like blues because of how light they are, the tactile feel, and that they sound like a machine gun going off :D. Greens would be a close second but I know they have more weight to each press on them.

RGBs definitely make things more expensive but here are some other brands that do RGB.

Basically the idea is that if you mash 6 keys at the same time, all 6 will register. The keyboard won't have a brain fart and ignore it. But that's the max: 6 keys. Nkey roll over means you can mash as many keys as you can and all will register on time. I've always thought it would be pretty damn difficult to need to register more than 6 keys at once but it's considered a key feature for good keyboards to have. Or atleast that's the impression I get from when I researched all this stuff.

250USD? Oh man, that's a huge range! I suppose you'll can get some good stuff in Korea but you'll just have to make sure you can get English caps! Unless you're fluent in Keyboard.

Hmm..I don't know much about casing changing. Do you want to change the physical dimensions of the case or just the colors and such?

u/thewarriorhunter · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

You can pick up a switch tester to try them out. It's not as good as being able to type on a keyboard but it's better than nothing. This one on Amazon has the major switches and two different kinds of o-rings you can try out. I bought one years ago and it definitely helped. Now I keep it on my desk and let others use it when I start telling them about my geek fascination.

I prefer reds with O-rings. I don't think it changes the feel of them as others have stated, but switch preference and feel is completely opinion based (I just wanted to give you another perspective). I use the 2mm o-rings (red) because I'm heavy handed and bottom out my keys. The o-rings bring the noise down and I prefer the reduced travel.

u/hakkai99 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Depending on your location, stores might stock mechanical keyboards to try out. One thing you can do is order a switch tester and see which switch you like the most. Most good keyboards use genuine Cherry MX switches, and the ones that don't use fairly good copies of them (Razer for example have copies of the MX Blue and MX Brown with faster actuation). The rest of the keyboard then is aesthetics, cost, features, etc.

u/mrburningsky · 2 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

Where can I find a mechanical switch tester like this one that isn't prohibitively expensive?

Or, it's a bit of a long shot, but does anyone know of a brick and mortar store that carries mechanical keyboards in Montreal that isn't BestBuy? I've had nothing but terrible experiences there, and I would prefer not transiting 30+ minutes to face the same.

u/Konant · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Could someone help me figure out what key cap material this switch tester has? I would love to buy a set to replace my current setup

u/sumrndmredditor · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You could probably get away with giving him a key sampler like this WASD Keyboards one. Let him play around with that as a pre-present to get a feel for the switches then buy whatever he decides feels nice to him. As mentioned earlier, /r/mechanicalkeyboards is a great resource if you wanna look up what the switch properties are, but nothing really beats pressing down on one yourself.

Oh and trust all of us who have mech boards (Cherry MX Brown Logitech G710+ here), the clack will spoil most other keyboards forever.

u/Gnarbuttah · 2 pointsr/hondagrom

I've only done a few things but really my favorite so far is new mirrors, I think the round mirrors ruin the atheistic on a bike which is mostly hard angles, plus I can't see behind me with the stock mirrors.

I use these now

u/_Madrugada_ · 1 pointr/guns

Kroil like this?

Does it really work that much better than hoppes?

u/thencsdc · 1 pointr/HondaCB

Until you tried Kroil, you haven’t tried everything. I started using this after the gunsmiths at Ruger told me it’s the secret weapon on their bench. Good luck, rider.

Kano KROIL Penetrating Oil, 8 fl. oz.

u/thatonegentry · 1 pointr/whatisthisthing

Use this and soak it overnight. Should get it unstuck in a jiffy.

u/Sirens_go_wee_woo · 1 pointr/FZ07

Motion Pro 01-0094 Throttle Sleeve
Heres the direct link.

u/wintersdark · 1 pointr/FZ07

I'm Canadian, so I bought from but the one is the same. You want motion pro 01-0094.

Edit: fitment checkers may say it won't fit. It's not a part for the mt/fz-07, and it has a different throw than stock (which is the point) but it will indeed fit.

u/Running_Motorcyclist · 1 pointr/motorcycles

I just did this yesterday!

Motion Pro 01-0094 Throttle Sleeve

Around $7.00 on Amazon... Just loosen you're cables to give you some slack. Also I had to snip a small piece off just to make it fit.

u/bte1 · 1 pointr/SVRiders is really good. Cheapest prices usually and fast shipping. 5SL-26240-01-00 is the part number for the r6 throttle tube I found out. I opted for the motion pro version of the r6 tube since it was half the price on amazon and should be the exact same as the stock tube.

u/OldManOuch · 1 pointr/FZ07

That’s what I used according to my amazon purchase history. I swapped mine when I installed oxford heated grips nearly a year ago and honestly, I usually don’t even remember I swapped it lol. But you will notice right away at first.

If you are careful you can save the stock grip using compressed air and lightly prying under it with a flathead screw driver or something similar.

u/video_descriptionbot · 1 pointr/FZ09

Title | FZ-07 Progress Report
Description | The Build Parts so far, TwoBros "The Garden Snake" edition Exhaust - [email protected] Stage Two Filter and Lid Kit, ECU Flash Tune - Core Moto brake lines - LED Relay - Pro Taper Carmichael Bars - Pro Taper Pillow Top MX Grips - Shorty CNC Levers - R6 Throttle Tube - RAM Mounts - Phone Mount - GoPro Mount - Bar End Mirrors - Bar End Mount Kit for MX Bars - Washers Needed for Bar Mount - The Proton 500 blinkers SAVE 15%- Motodynamic Fender Eliminator - Motodynamic Integrated Tail Light - Mini Fly / Windscreen (Its only $30!) Merch Shirts Support my Patreon here, TheGardenSnakes Second Channel, TheGardenSnake on Instagram TheGardenSnake on FaceBook TheGardenSnake on Twitter!/thegardensnake and only if you want to, Business inquiries, [email protected] Cold Funk - Funkorama by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license ( Source: Artist:
Length | 0:11:55


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u/dacian88 · 1 pointr/motorcycles

or get one of these

my bike's fairing gets in the way if I mount from the shocks, and I snapped a fairing connector doing it.

u/gamesterx23 · 1 pointr/motorcycles

You need a ramp, ratchet straps, and I recommend canyon dancers. I've hauled my bikes/scooters around a million times using just those three things plus my truck of course.

Not sure if this is the exact kind you need, but it'll give you an idea as to what they are.

Make sure the tires are aired up appropriately otherwise the bike will be extremely difficult to push. If the ramp is small OR has holes in it like many ramps you should strap it down to the truck. You stay on the left side of the bike and cover the right brake lever. Have another person push from the rear. I usually do it in increments, but many people do it in one shot. I highly recommend increments as its easy to screw up and have the bike start going up at an angle - especially if you've never loaded one before. Hold the front brake and have the person on the rear start pushing. Release the brake and ease the bike up some then tell them when you're gonna press the brake again. Just go up a foot or so at a time. Once its on the truck put the kickstand down and put the canyon dancers on. Ratchet the LEFT side first and make the strap tight enough so that the bike can't lean to the right if you push it. Now do the same for the right and even the tension up. Now alternate tightening the left side and right side until you get a good dive in the front. Shake the bike - it should be one with the truck at this point lol. Tie up the strap so it doesn't beat the paint off of the bike in the wind.

As for maintenance - if you've done some work on cars the clutch job on the bike shouldn't be very difficult for you. BUY THE SERVICE MANUAL. This way you have exact measurements of everything such as oil capacity.

u/PLD · 1 pointr/Trackdays

I like cam straps because they're easier to work with than ratchet straps. I have Ancra straps that are fantastic. I'd definitely buy them again. I also prefer to use use Canyon Dancers to hold the bike still in my truck bed, but its rear wheel is nestled into the corner of the bed and acts as a chock, sort of.

I have a 5-gallon VP Racing fuel jug. It has served me well, but it's tough to mess that up. I imagine any decent jug with a hose will do.

My ramp is a generic folding metal one from Amazon. Says Raider on the side, but it's exactly like that one I linked. It takes some getting used to, but I use it to get my bikes into and out of my truck bed by myself. Even the one without a kickstand.

u/jgur88 · 1 pointr/motorcycles

That is quite the first bike. Be careful man!

Also canyon dancers are for transporting bikes more securely without scratching up the plastics.

u/gusgizmo · 1 pointr/amateurradio

Seems like a car, marine, or deep cycle battery of 32 or more amp hours would do the trick. You'll have to evaluate your purchasing options, but I'd recommend getting sealed lead acid deep cycle batteries of some flavor.

This is a good deal:

My reasoning for that sizing is that 200w for an hour is only 16ah at 12v, so double that to prevent yourself from overdischarging the battery and you should be good.

If you want to double up on size, I'd recommend just buying a larger battery from the start and avoiding the complications that multiple batteries bring into the picture.

The solar panels seem to output around .9a, really depends on your insolation numbers but 5 hours of usable light gives you around 4.5ah per panel or perhaps around half an hour of TX time per day of charging.

u/playaspec · 1 pointr/nyc

What a fucking SCAM. A FIVE HUNDRED DOLLAR battery every five years? It's a stinking medium sized sealed lead acid (gel cell) battery. At most it costs $70 retail.

Philly did a test run on these, and they're an over priced hot mess. The city shouldn't spend a dime on this junk.

u/buddha797 · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

Also, do you think you could estimate how long this might last for me?

edit: whoops, assuming a 38wH battery like this one

although that one is quite large size-wise, perhaps a more reasonable 10 wH

u/valobal · 1 pointr/DRZ400

I'm in Mexico, but this info LED bulbs model would be help anyway.

I replaced incandescent stock bulb indicators with that:
It has a great lumen power more than stocks.
You must replace Flasher relay with this model, because LEDs bulbs blinks more faster with stock relay.

For tail stop brake bulb I replace it with that:
It has a great power and minor consume.

All bulbs sizes are compatible with stock ones.
Hope it help to you.


u/mangila · 1 pointr/motorcycles

It appears it does not,

Here's a link to the exact one

u/pm079 · 1 pointr/SVRiders

Nice, thanks for the update.

Did you install a relay? That may be what's causing the weird flashing. Without the relay for me was a solid light but I read somewhere that may have to do with the grounding but I'm not sure.

Just in case, here's a couple links: DIY on and Plug and Play on I used the Amazon one.

u/SpideyTingle · 1 pointr/motorcycles

I ride a Kawasaki Concours (aka C14) and have done 3 days of over 1000 miles in a day, these are generaly mostly slab days. We live in IL and the pretty places we go are far away. My bike is kinda sporty but also has an awesome fairing, great for wind and high speed and cold but kinda blows when it's hot.

Some days, we do long distances on the slab to get to the cool stuff (mountains, generally). We start early and shoot for 800 plus. Days where you're in the twisties, we shoot for 300-4000.

Comfort, hydration and keeping your energy up via snacking is key. You could get a couple fuel bottles to carry with and see how far you go before you run out, then fill up a bit from them and now you know your range. Don't forget to fill them back up!

I have a motorcycle specific GPS wired to my battery and use to lay out routes well in advance of the trip and then download them to my GPS. Then when we are on the trip, we just load them and follow the route, no thought required. Some like to just shoot from the hip, I am a planner.

I don't have electronic cruise, I wish I did. But this adds 75% of the value and costs very little.


Also, grip puppies make it easier to grip, you don't have to grip as tight and they minimize vibration.

When we are doing brute force long days on the slab (which I do hate but consider a challenge at the same time), you run the tank out, stop and gas up, pee, get a drink, eat some peanuts or trail mix and get right back on the bike.

We did a trip to AZ and NM this year, it's stunning. Just got back from the Black Hills and the Bighorn Mountains and Bear Tooth Pass/Chief Joseph Scenic Highway. Those last 2 are my favorites.

u/500monkeys · 1 pointr/motorcycles

[This little fella] (

it makes it so when i'm going down a highway i can stick my arms out and pretend i'm an airplane. :)

u/Grombomb · 1 pointr/hondagrom

This one

Pretty generic!

Edit: I took out all of the little adapter things it comes with and just removed the screw from the end of the handle bars and put it there. I can clarify this more if you'd like.

u/scorpionMaster · 1 pointr/bikesgonewild

I got some Rhinomoto mounts and a set of $17 mirrors from Amazon. I like the mirrors, because if they break, they're cheap to replace.

The fender is this from aliexpress, but I've added some lights and mounted my license plate on it with an adapter plate that I made with my neighbor's help. I also added lights for the license plate, and brake/turn.

Also, it does quite a good job of keeping the passenger seat and your back clean. I was having issues with a dirty back with my fender eliminator.

It's got a pair of these lights. You mostly just need a license plate light, which would be considerably easier to wire than what I did. There are five wire cores leading to that plate mount. It was a bit overkill.

I should get a video of it in action, though. The brake flasher is cool, and the turn signals are nice too.

u/bcvickers · 1 pointr/bikebuilders

I picked up these for my 1981 suzuki gs1000gl build I did this summer knowing they were likely really cheap quality. I have been pleasantly surprised by their performance so far...probably just over 1000 miles so far.

u/scarecrow2407 · 1 pointr/250r

The mirrors were a Christmas gift from my wife, since I've been bitching for a while about the stock mirrors. They were very simple to put on and have been holding like a dream on the highway. So far, I love them! Highly recommended for anyone who is fed up with the stock mirror placement!

u/Agramlec · 1 pointr/motorcycles

Good ole Amazon, and I haven't ridden with them much but so far much better view behind me.

u/SweetumsTheMuppet · 1 pointr/IndianMotorcycle

That's what I use as well. I got the Ram Mount Motorcycle Handlebar Clamp Base with M8 screws here:,

Then I got the ram grip and clamps onto that ball with a short arm. I use the rubber band and an old phone and just leave the assembly together all the time. I unscrew the ball grip and bring the whole thing (phone and arm) inside with me when I stop (dump it in the helmet). I also routed a charging cable from the battery up there and put a silicone rubber top on it to cap it when not in use.

That way I have a nicely available maps system (turn my main phone into a hotspot, this one connects over wifi).

u/flaming_m0e · 1 pointr/Dualsport

The XGrip is what you were using?

Should have used the rubber straps to hold it down to the grip. And use a ubolt type mount, or a top clamp bolt type mount.

Ram Mount Motorcycle Handlebar Clamp Base with M8 Screws

u/doitskippy · 1 pointr/motorcycles

Find a way to mount a RAM ball to the bike. I like this guy personally.

After that, get something to hold your phone that works with a RAM mount. The X-Grip is super popular, however, I did a lot of research before buying and read loads of reviews from people who lost their phone on the highway, or had the thing twisting and turning every which way, and so on. Many people use it and seem happy with it but it's a big YMMV situation, and it made me shy on that product.

While I can't say for certain if the problems I read about the X-Grip are true, I can tell you that after a legit 60,000 miles with 2 different phones mounted in [THIS] ( mount, at a combination of city and highway, into potholes and over speed bumps, not once has my phone ever even wiggled. I have the utmost confidence in this thing. The only caveat is that you should use a TPU or hybrid style case because this is just hard plastic, so have something to save you from scratches and so on.

To go along with it you will need one of these for the back of the phone holder. You will also need a RAM arm, I use (and prefer) a 3 inch arm but they make 6 inch and other more complicated contraptions if that doesn't do it for you.

It's not exactly cheap. At the moment, from Amazon, that will cost you about $43 shipped (edit: before tax). However, I will say that this is exact setup has never failed me in 60,000 miles spread between multiple motorcycles and with 2 different phones of decent size. For your reference, those phones were a Galaxy S5 in an Otterbox Commuter and a Sony Xperia Z3+ in a clear Spidgen case. The mount does have room to grow a bit bigger than these if you need it, but not by a lot.

Good luck and happy riding! =)

Edit: Forgot to offer to take pics of the setup on my bike. If you wanna see it all together first, I can do that, just drop a reply.

u/ernova · 1 pointr/FZ09

not the first guy but I use the same setup and can't understand why people use the U-bolt bar mount when this option is available

u/radio4095 · 1 pointr/ToyotaTacoma

Second this. It actually uses a ram mount ball for a motorcycle. LINK Key is to go to your hardware store and get the correct threaded bolt and length if the ones that come with it don't work.

u/NateDoggLives · 1 pointr/CalamariRaceTeam

Nah you want this if you have a FZ or something with similar style handlebar clamps. It looks like this on the bike

u/joheinous · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Switches are the thing that tell when you press the key, certain switches do certain things. Blue ones tend to be loud but satisfying. Red ones are sort of in the middle between quiet and loud. This is a guide. If you are planning on spending a lot on a keyboard you can get a tester kit and test each switch to see which would suit you best. You could also make a trip out to best buy or your local tech store to try out the keyboard they have on display.

u/xXAndrew28Xx · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Large/Medium, for use at a desk. I haven't tested some different switches yet, is there anything I can buy that has a couple of switches I can test with?

I found this: though I have a relative with a couple of Corsair keyboards or maybe some local stores have them on display.

I'm thinking about MX Cherry Brown switches.

u/K_cutt08 · 1 pointr/buildapc

I've only seen it once. I don't think all stores do it, sadly. There's always these, but it would be better if there was a way to rent it or something instead of buying it for 16 dollars.

u/unitedamerika · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I've own a few different mechanical keyboards. While I know the difference when gaming I don't notice a difference in using browns vs reds. I assume it because I'm more focus on gaming than typing by feel.

If you looking for suggestions on what keyboard to buy, it depends on your budget.

There are also "Cherry Switch Testers" that will let you get a feel of different keys. However, if you like Cherry Browns I would personally stick with browns for your first keyboard. When collecting keyboards starts becoming an addiction you'll branch out.

u/jrwil · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Maybe grab a switch tester before making an investment?

u/QuinceDaPence · 1 pointr/ar15

My Keyboard

You should try one out some time or better yet buy the sampler which has all the main different types which all feel different.

u/diminutive_lebowski · 1 pointr/oculus

Turns out there are at least 6 different flavors of switches. Blue, Brown, Clear, Red, White, and Green.

It's worth testing them all out in person before blowing $100+ on a keyboard. Picking up one of these testers might be a good idea too:

u/Ryvaeus · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

>I want the feel of a mechanical

That's as varied as the colors in the RGB spectrum (well not quite, but you know what I'm getting at). I suggest you go to a retail shop that will let you test the different kinds of mechanical keyboards there are, or buy one of these mechanical switch testers so you can play around with the feeling of different switches (there are cheaper ones with less switches, but this one has a good representation of the Cherry MX line). Yes, any mechanical keyboard feels distinct from a membrane, but if you get one with MX Reds and find that it's too mushy for your liking, then that's a bit of a waste.

And, though it may rustle some jimmies here at r/mk, there are even some hybrids available. Essentially, they're membrane keyboards with mechanical components that mimic the feel of certain switches and even allow compatibility with MX keycaps. You get the advantages of membranes (quiet, cheap, waterproof) with some of the tactile feel of mechanicals. And generally they're backlit for your nighttime pleasure.

u/sekyuritei · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

I've had one for a while, and I've checked the switches and model number several times just to make sure they're really "Cherry MX red". It sounds way more clicky than the mushy and easy-to-type-on models I see at stores. My issues with this keyboard:

  • Very punishing on mistakes. I switch back and forth between this, and chiclet style Macbook Pro + bluetooth keyboard. It seems like this happens much more than other mechanical keyboards I've used.
  • Dumb FN key defaults, weird switching between functions + media buttons
  • Stupid lighting
  • the overlap of the numpad is maddening, and it always seems to be in the mode I don't want it in. No programmer or developer should ever get this keyboard
  • The keyboard takes a second or two to light up/work during boot up. This means I have to rapidly bang the shit out of the keys to (unfortunately, there's no "function lock" that survives a reboot). This also impacts being able to hit delete on bootup. This is maddening during a new system build, or overclocking and rebooting a lot. I also dual boot Linux, and the shortcomings here just make it annoying to use. Part of this can be attributed to the pickiness of my new ASUS mobo, and my ASUS 4k display also times out within seconds (and tries to switch to another input source). Either way, this delay doesn't happen on my backup Logitech keyboard. Yes, I increased the delay of my BIOS post - I just shouldn't have to do that.
  • keep in mind that the layout is a little weird for customizing the keycaps, although that's the case on almost every gaming-focused mechanical keyboard

    All of this being said, it's still great to type on (especially when I do it enough to be used to it), and it's pretty well-rounded between gaming and typing (IMHO). If these issues weren't there, I'd probably be keeping it.

    I'd also check out /r/MechanicalKeyboards and pick up a keycap tester with o-rings before buying a mechanical keyboard, especially if you've never owned one before!
u/slifer227 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

no like cherry MX red switches are different than Cherry Blues I guess you misunderstood me. My question was whether buying one of each switch to test them out. Something like this: or

If I get one I will probably go for the 9.99 one cause chep = op since all cherry mx are the same brand anyways

u/mordath · 1 pointr/buildapc

Get one of those switch testboards to see what type of switches you prefer. Something like this (I just googled for the first one)

u/RubberFistOfJustice · 1 pointr/battlestations

I think the g413 is actually a pretty nice looking board. The problem is the keycaps. I've read multiple threads all over the net about how flimsy and shitty they feel.


was posted this past week about some dude even talking about the keycaps creating holes. Probably a freak thing but still. The difference is really buying a Dell or building your own pc. If you see all the options that are out there you will be floored.

Two things for you to try.

If you type for a living, you really should know what all the key caps feel like. This is the single most important tool you use daily.

I suggest buying this :

After you know which you prefer ( Browns and Blues are generally better for typing)

u/polyglotpurdy · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I’ve never used the Microsoft ergonomic keyboard so I can’t really speak to the actuation force of their switches.

What I will recommend since you’re new to cherry switches is pick up a tester that lets you try out the different switch types. Here’s an example of a cherry tester on Amazon

That should help you get a sense of which switch types feel best to you. Even better would be to find a local mechanical keyboard meetup you can go to where you can try out different profiles and switch types on full keyboards

u/hawkshot2001 · 1 pointr/pcgamingtechsupport

You can get a test device with a variety of switches.

Yes, it all comes down to the feel you like.

u/tenaciouscgaming · 1 pointr/heroesofthestorm

> I'd suggest heading to an electronics store and trying some demo units.

You can also order a switch tester from Amazon for about 16 bucks and some change:


u/PlataBear · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Then I would just buy a switch tester. This WASD one should be fine.

u/AzerLT · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

If I where you I would get a keyswitch tester before dumping some cash into one, Mechanical keyboards can last a very, very, very long time, I ended up going with browns because Its blue switches (iconic clicky ones) without the click, and I am completely satisfied, my keyboard is the Magicforce 68-key backlit mechanical keyboard with cherry mx browns and I have no regrets.

Incase your wondering about the key switch tester, here's a link to the one I got

u/Daedus · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Keyboards and mice are very different in terms of feel and ergonomics across the board, but there really isn't a "wrong" choice when it comes to keyboards. All of them will work just fine. Some are just nicer/worse feeling or more sensitive. Just make sure your mouse has an optical or laser sensor. I wouldn't want you to accidentally end up with a trackball.

EDIT: If you want a cheap, safe option: hit up the Cooler Master Devastator Mouse/Keyboard Bundle. $30 bucks for a halfway decent gaming set that comes in Red or Blue LEDs. Not top of the line, but a good place to get your feet wet. Then for $16 you can grab up this MX Switch sampler. The sampler has 6 different mechanical keyboard switches built into it, which will let you actually feel the difference switch types and decide whether or not a more expensive mechanical keyboard is something you want, and what kind of switches you want in it.

u/Emerald_Flame · 1 pointr/buildapc

Not a perfect option, but there are key switch testers available from quite a few places so you can feel what each type of switch is like.

u/haploid16 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Hap hap hello there! I am a bot and you linked to Amazon.

This comment contains 1 pricing graph(s)


Product 1: WASD 6-Key Cherry MX Switch Tester (B00AZQKCD4)

Imgur pricing graph

||Amazon|3P New|Used|
|Cur||$16.00|Not in Stock|

Relevant product discussions:



^^I'm ^^a ^^bot. ^^Please ^^PM ^^any ^^bugs

u/Whatlafuk · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards nope I mean 50$ CDN Wich is only 10 dollars more expensive than the keyboard I want.

u/OmegaPiggi · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace
u/MajorDerp4 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Sadly it is not functional. It is called a wasd 6 key cherry mx switch tester. I did find some similiar options made by max keyboards, here

u/redsticles · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Here is a nice little article that explains some basics.
Also check out the Wiki as a lot of the questions you may have already have answers there.
Next you could pick up a cheap switch tester to decide which type may be right for you.
You could also get one of each of the Keychains to test. That way after you decide which you like you could have accessories.
Lit Version

u/CommmandaPanda · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

This is a switch tester

There are different kinds out there depending on what switch you want to test or how much you want to pay.

u/Weselers · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

So reds and blues are very different from each other, and are extremely easy to press (I was pressing them without realizing a lot) I personally ended up loving mx blacks (the hardest to press). But of these choices it is almost impossible to figure out without trying them before deciding. If you cannot find a store or someone who has a mechanical keyboard to try them, I would recommend getting a switch test board like this

u/Captainjim17 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I believe they are closest to the Cherry MX Blues or Cherry MX Greens, based on the clicking sound.

You may want to look at getting one of these:

if you're looking at a Cherry board.

u/robofrogmage · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Hey everyone. I've been lurking this subreddit for about two months now, but finally decided to join when I saw that a meetup was happening literally 40 minutes from my house.

Anyway, I'm somewhat new to mechanical keyboards, though I have a general knowledge about them. I actually purchased two mechanical keyboards about a year ago from, come to find out after lurking the subreddit, a less-than-reputable company (hint: it rhymes with Boar's Hair ;) ).

Needless to say, I'm interested in upgrading my work and home keyboards in the coming months. I've currently own Cherry MX Red (home use) and Brown (work use) boards, and I actually have the Coolermaster and WASD switch testers. After doing some research, I'm looking at the KUL ES-87 (Clear), Leopold FC660C, WASD Code V2 88-Key (Clear), and Topre Realforce 87U (55g) as potential upgrades. Hopefully, I'll be able to try several of these boards out in person next weekend.

I'll definitely try to make it if I don't oversleep. I'll also try to bring a 6-pack of something for the community cooler.

u/iownahorsefurreal · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Get something like this so you can test out different switches, and find one you like! The knowledge comes with tinkering.

Someone can probably recommend a better one. The WASD was the only one I ever owned.

u/badillin · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Well, thats a beast of a rig!

With this you could cut a few corners... for example, are you planning on overclocking? if not, there is no need for a K processor, so you could get the 7600 (no k) and with no overclockeable cpu there is no need for a z170 motherboard... but the price difference may not be all that big.

You could get a cheaper PSU, but again, thats a really good and reliable one, the price difference might not be worth it if you are not on a very tight budget.

Essentially i think you have an excellent rig and the things you could "cheap out" on, might not be worth doing so, as in, if you have the extra $ better to have this than the slightly cheaper versions.

A thing i would add is a regular HDD at least 1tb, and use it as storage, if for any reason you need/want to format your pc, you could just wipe the SSD and all your downloaded games/pictures/videos/documents would be safe in the other drive. Only games with long loading times benefit from being installed on a SSD, so no need to have them all in one (i dont have any games on my SSD for example, only Windows and windows programs).

You should post your specs on /r/pcmasterrace with a title like "can someone check my build?" so you can get more opinions, i might not be seeing something!


What monitor do you have, or what resolution (1080p/1440p) and refresh rate (60hz/144hz) are you planning on gaming on?

If you are getting a new monitor, and keeping a AMD Gpu, consider one with FREESYNC (or one with Gsync if you change for a more powerful nvidia card, but expect a $200 price increase as Nvidia taxes manufacturers that use their tech) people say it makes a considerable difference... i havent had one so i couldnt really give my opinion on that.

Now for GPU, With the rx480 you are on the sweetspot for 1080p 60hz gaming.

the next step up would be an nvidia 1070 for either 1440p 60hz or 1080p 144hz

and the next one would be a 1080 for 1440p 144hz


Also do you have mouse/keyboard??

Personally i love Logitech Mice, Want top of the line and arguably the best wired/wireless Mouse there is, but also quite pricy? go for the g900, or one of the most loved and better reviewed is the g502 just ask /r/G502MasterRace

i have a g700s that can be used wired or wireless but the battery life is crap. around 1 week, so i invested on rechargeable batteries, it can be charged via the cable, so not all that annoying, but the g600 battery lasts for around 6 months... (The g600 is wireless only though.) i went for the g700s because of button placements.

And for the keyboard... well there is no dispute, get a Mechanical Keyboard, only thing is that you might be overwhelmed because of the huge ammount of options... but basically get one with CHERRYMX switches, there are others switches, but these are the best there are, no contest. Just decide on the color of the switches, as each one has different characteristics, some are clicky some take more pressure etc... a tester

would be useful to decide what kind you want, i went for the Cherry Mx Browns and i have to tell you, i couldnt be more satisfied, honestly one of the bestest buys ive ever made for my PC, Why do you think my answers are so lengthy? i look for excuses to write on mine, thats how satisfying it is. You might not feel this way the moment you get it, but after a month using it and you get accustomed to your Mech, and then type on a common membrane keyboard, youll ask yourself how the hell did you use that crap for so long.

/r/MechanicalKeyboards is where you should go ask as there are a huge amount of options to choose from.

Thats all i can think of right now!

u/Docmcfluhry · 1 pointr/buildapc

> I'd recommend Cherry Reds

Browns are good too, but I prefer Reds as they feel better overall to me. I'd definitely reccommend trying them out for yourself to see what you like before buying. I know my local Best Buy had some keyboards out to try. If you can't do it that way, you could always buy something like this first:

u/HomieMcBro · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Better to get an aluminum switch tester like this one or a larger one with better switches like this one? I have a lot of switches already so I'm looking for a big tester with keycaps (preferably DSA)

u/abhixec · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Get a switch tester : WASD 6-Key Cherry MX Switch Tester ?

u/Mistawondabread · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

It's all personal preference, one isn't objectively better than another (if we're talking about CherryMX). I find a lot of people use Reds, but that also might be a result of keyboard manufactures making more Red switched keyboards then any other type. I have blues, a brown keyboard, and a red. I really like the blue. I'd recommend getting a sample switch from amazon, and trying them all out.

u/bdzz · 1 pointr/buildapc

Don't buy one without trying the different switches.

The most common ones (blue, black, red, brown) are all different (linear, tactile clicky, tactile non clicky etc.) and honestly nothing compared to a regular rubber dome keyboard.

You should order a sampler or just go to some stores to try them out

u/HeyZeus_Christ · 1 pointr/NoStupidQuestions

Honestly the type of key matters way more than the manufacturer. Make sure they're Cherry MX switches; avoid Razer as they use proprietary Khalil switches that most people don't like as much and that I've heard wear out faster. I'd recommend trying all of the switches before you buy one, because everyone has a preferred style. I like reds and browns but blues are also popular. Best Buy sometimes has mech keyboards that you can try out and see which one you like best, otherwise get a switch tester.

u/lenonymes · 1 pointr/buildapc

Buy a cheap switch tester off of amazon (I personally bought this one) and figure out what kind of switch you prefer the most.

u/SwissStriker · 1 pointr/buildapc

If you get the chance, try a key switcher like this:

You won't really appreciate the difference if you don't have a side by side comparison.

u/TorsionFree · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I think you're using the words "keys" and "switches" backward :) Keys are what your fingers touch when you type. Switches are what they connect to.

You might want to pick up an inexpensive switch tester so you can taste the rainbow before committing. I wish I'd done this before I bought my first, since I ended up finding out that blue switches were not to my taste and decided to return my first board as a result.

Since it sounds like clicky switches aren't an option, your Race will probably have silver, red, black, brown, or clear switches.

If you're looking for the quietest experience, you probably want a heavier switch that will make it easier to type without "bottoming out" as much (smacking the keys against the board). So black or clear switches might be your best bet. Blacks are linear, meaning smooth action from top to bottom so you don't feel exactly where the key activates. Clears are tactile, so they have a little bump in the action that lets you know when the key is activated before bottoming out.

If you're up to retraining how you type a little bit, the clear switches would most help you learn how to type with a minimum of bottoming-out. So that'd be my thought, but grab a switch tester and try them out first if you want to feel for yourself. Good luck!

u/lac9090 · 1 pointr/mechmarket

Not sure how much you want to spend/how quick you're looking to get one, but it might be easier to buy one on Amazon or something.

u/mutsuto · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

> Quickfire Rapid

this. I'm not a fan of led/ lighting on my peripherals. i think you can disable them here [unlike my current fucking mouse and keyboard] using the " Illumination Levels Profile Management".

Is the Quickfire Rapid the general go-too entry level recommended MK? Is that why you recommend it here. Then I'd go and buy a set of switches on top of this purchase?

> I would recommend that you try a keyboard with Cherry MX Brown, Red, Clear, or Black switches and use o-rings to see how that works for you.

I'm not sure how to go about this. I do not know anyone who owns a MK [I don't think I know anyone who knows that they exist]. I don't think there is a shop near me that sells any so I could demo them.

Is my only option buying a 15 pounds key tester to try them all out?

I notice in the picture of this one there is included o-rings. When you said I'd need to use some, I thought you meant I'd have to go to a plumbing store to get some tiny ones. When you buy a keyboard/ set-of-keys do they usually include the o-rings?

also, when searching on amazon for those testers I came across this multi-coloured abomination. the fuck is it? I've never seen a MK below 100 pounds before.

edit: i also just found this silent pc subreddit, /r/buildaquietpc/. very inactive though. I looked around spcr but could not find anything there. this keyboard claims to be quiet, but only boasts to be as quiet as a non-mechanical keyboard.

u/Cakinss · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Mech keyboard pleb here, but /u/manofinterests is recommending you get one of these if you are seriously unsure which to get and you're willing to drop $20~ on this.

u/Lakkoa · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I was talking to an IT guy at work the other day about different cherry switches and 5 minutes later he walks up with one of these. That's what I call an IT dept.

u/borphos · 1 pointr/buildapc

Mechanical keyboards are a personal preference thing. You really should test at least half a dozen at computer stores or expo booths to get a feel for the type of switches you like. Alternately, you can buy a Cherry Switch Tester and then decide.

u/rempired · 1 pointr/keyboards

Cooler master is a solid choice in terms of build quality and price. They come in a full size keyboard (xt) and without a numeric pad (tkl) if that matters to you.

In terms of switches. it's purely preference, I would hit up a computer store to try out different switches if they have gaming keyboards available. MX reds, blues, and browns are all different typing experiences, there are other switches but these are the most common. You could also pickup a switch tester and try them before you invest in a board:

u/skrilly01 · 1 pointr/buildapc

There are switch testers you can buy

u/ssssound · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

How accurate are these Switch Testers? I'm looking to upgrade from my Steelseries 6G keyboard from like 2011 and I know it has cherry MX Blacks. I think I want something like Brown or Red..I'd say 70% gaming 30% gen use is my split

u/kinjileslie · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Uh oh, I see I'm finding another subreddit to join... because I love typing.

Good comments from the other replies here. I love my K68 and my K63. I have one at home, where I work often typing up compliance letters, policy docs, emails and PowerPoints for my company. And never ending meeting notes. Loved my K68 so much at home I got the compact K63 for work.

That being said, be sure you get something you're happy with, even if you end up returning another keyboard. I love MX switches. You might want to check out Romer-G switches on Logitech, much newer design and I hear people rave about them. I'm sure someone will correct me: I think MX switches are from the '80s? I love them and type all day on my two Corsairs with reds, even though they are more "for gaming than typing." So, yes, I think you'll get used to them if you keep the K68 but if you have the option to find something you'll really love, that should be the keyboard you get. Sounds like you don't love the reds.

There's also stuff like this switch tester out there: Cherry MX Switch Tester on Amazon

Edit: Fixing link

u/chirmer · 1 pointr/fountainpens

I also found that my broad TWSBI had hard starts at first. I've now used it a lot (daily driver w/ my Nanami Seven Seas notebook) and it almost never dry starts now. I would imagine once you get your feed wet it'll write like a dream. How is Apache Sunset for daily use? I hear a lot that it comes out lighter in pictures than real life. Do you find it fairly legible? Tempted to get a sample - thanks!

And as /u/Ragnarok418 said, I saw the logo :) I bought a little Cooler Master doohikey that lets me test the switches, and the blue is definitely a heavy click. The sound is incredibly satisfying, indeed. I think I'll go brown, though, so I don't piss off my coworkers ;) But it's a great way to test switches without committing to an entire keyboard. Though I'd get this one if I could do it all again since it contains Cherry Clears vs. the Topre switch (which I found kinda gross and muddy).

u/D1STURBED36 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Advice for first time MK buyer? i still have a few weeks before i fully decide/get the funds but so far im considering the ducky shine 5, coolermaster masterkeys pro l or a k series corsair..

k-series - quality issues, wary of "gaming" brands, and the keyboard i want that fulfills everything i want is ehh and over budget (k95 - nearly £200, budget is not strictly set but its about £120-150) while the other, lower cost k-series still seem to have quality issues and are missing various features (media/macro keys, etc). - and when compared to the below 2 keyboards (or at least the masterkeys) seems pretty inferior when quality is taken into account.

ducky shine 5 - seems really, really solid and is reasonably priced. but no software for rgb customization is kinda disappointing. although it does seem to have better LED's then others.

masterkeys pro l - seems similar to ducky in regards to quality, but has software. just in general seems really solid and pretty much ticks all my boxes.

features id like:

macro keys - not a huge dealbreaker, but i would like to have them. that being said, i have 12 atm (logitech g110) that are pretty much never used - but id like to use them. software for customizing keys never used as replacement for dedicated macros would also be acceptable

media keys - again, never used and a minor bonus and im not to fussed.

quality - id like to have the keyboard for a fair few years.

Full sized - im not completely against the idea of getting a smaller size, but it seems unnecessary for me.. full sized has been perfectly fine for me.

Customizability - for keycaps, etc.. I realize that the k-series use a non standard bottom row which makes replacing/getting new switches difficult..? atm this is a complete non factor and i have 0 plans to change anything.. but i guess standard and not some weird hard to find stuff would be good for future.

RGB - it seemed silly to me yesterday for this to be such an important thing but after seeing a razer chroma something in person.. I love it.

UK layout

If theres any other keyboards that i should consider looking at thats roughly my budget and fits the criteria, id really appreciate it - along with advice about the 3 mentioned boards - ATM im leaning towards the masterkeys.

Bonus question - i realize its a pretty personal thing, but it seems cherry MX reds are what id like the most..? I dont like the idea of blues potentially interfering with double tapping, but i have pretty much no experience. Does something like this really help in finding your preferred switch if its only 1 key? i tried typing on razor chroma (something) which i believe has razor greens and found it pretty lovely - at least compared to what i have now.

u/BubTheSkrub · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

If you're not sure what switch you should get, I would recommend buying a switch tester. Switch testers have one of each type of switch, so you can try each one out without buying a new keyboard every time. This tester has everything you need, including keycaps and sound dampening o-rings, so you can find out what switch is right for you (and if you like o-rings or not).

u/free_mustacherides · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I prefer brown switches for the feedback, if you want a clean press go with red switches. If you have a micro center by you or any high end PC parts store they usually have keyboards out to try. Fry's generally has testers too. You can also buy one of these to try at home for yourself Good luck!

u/Makobeats · 1 pointr/gifs

As /u/Graspar said, you develop that muscle memory for exactly where the keyswitch will trigger. I only have to press my Cherry MX Red keys down a little past halfway before they trigger. If you add o-rings to the switches, then you can reduce both the noise (which, I have to admit, is satisfying) and the impact when you're typing hard enough to bottom out. You can also type very quietly with linear switches if you don't bottom out. However, I will note that this takes some getting used to. During the first month or two of typing on Reds, I got a LOT of nuisance triggers. But that goes away as your typing becomes a little more accurate. If you want to know what a mechanical keyboard that uses Cherry MX switches will feel like without either meeting someone with one or without dropping $100+ on a keyboard, you could order a sampler, which costs about $16 (note: call any local computer specialty stores in your area, particularly ones that build custom gaming PCs or have a focus on PC gaming - they might just have one already that you can play with!)

On top of the feeling of mechanical keyboards (I mean, honestly, it just feels nice to type on reds. I have a friend who looks at me funny for preferring to type on reds instead of browns, but to each their own. That being said, I even like the tactile feedback of my laptop keys, and I occasionally enjoy the "mushy" feel of rubber domes. They're just different, and a lot of people prefer them), many offer n-key rollover (or some other high number), meaning that you can press as many keys as you want to on the board and it will tell the computer that you're pressing every single one. Cheaper keyboards will tend to have limited rollover due to the way the keyboard matrix is laid out, whereas more expensive keyboards are more likely to be have the matrix laid out with diodes that allows for high rollover. I honestly don't know enough to explain how this works, so you'll have to either wait for someone more knowledgeable or go to Google. But because mechanical keyboards usually end up on the "more expensive" side, they tend to have that high rollover. Gamers often find high rollover desirable because it reduces the likelihood that an input will not be received because you're holding down a key.

u/ahcrapnotagain · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

You can get a sample of all the mx switches for $16 on amazon

u/FlynnThatHuman · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

It is entirely subjective, but purchasing yourself a switch tester will definitely help! Some examples:

u/summit1986 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

You can always sell it on eBay once you've decided.

u/dstaller · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Blue is the loud clickity clackity switch. A lot of people like the noise and try to associate it with mechanical keyboards, but if you're like me and prefer a less noisy experience avoid them. When a friend of mine was still living at home, his mom made him get rid of his blue switch keyboard because it was so loud she couldn't sleep at night being in the next room. He also didn't have o-rings so she had to deal with the clicky noises and the clacking from bottoming out.

Browns are basically quieter versions of Blues. Great for typing without all the noise. Has a tactile bump for actuation without the click noise and great for typing. I use these for both gaming and typing and I love them.

Reds are linear switches. Little quieter than browns. Easier to bottom out if you don't have o-rings because there isn't a bump or click for actuation and they have little resistance. Typically used more for gaming, but doesn't mean you need them for gaming.

All three are commons choices and at the end of the day it completely comes down to preference. If you're unsure what switch you'd prefer, go to a computer store with some on display and try them out. If none are available, there are switch testers to you can order to test out the different choices. For example.

Also, cheaper option with less switch choices.

Browns with o-rings are my personal favorite. Brown for the bump without the click, and o-rings to avoid the clack. I also really love the way Black switches feel, but admittedly they're a bit too stiff for me to game with so I stick with brown.

u/letstrythisagain_ · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

This describes the different types of cherry switches fairly well, which are the most common brand you'll run into, it's really a matter of how "clicky" you want it to be, in other words, how much resistance/feel do you want, and how much noise do you want or are willing to tolerate.

If you don't mind investing a little more, you can get a switch sampler like this

To see what kind of feel you like best

(And you could always return it for a refund after you decide...)

u/Chipmunks95 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I had browns and blues and LOVED both of them. I like the clicky ones so I sold my keyboard with browns for the one with blues, but it's all personal preference. If you wanna test all the switches that are in mainstream Cherry MX keyboards you might wanna get this to see which is best for you

u/RedZaturn · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

More switch options also. I'd recommend ordering a switch tester to find what you like. They are pretty cheap.

u/Radiofacespurtle · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Have you tried all of the switches?

Ill list them off too make it easier

Cherry MX reds-40Gram actuation force,Linear no bump nor click

Cherry MX Blues-55 Grams actuation force,Tactile bump and click

Cherry MX browns-45 Grams Actuation force Tactile Bump,No click

Cherry MX Greens-80 Gram Actuation force,Clicky And Has a tactile bump,Basically Stiffer Blues

Cherry MX Blacks-60 Gram Actuation Force,Linear no tactile bump,Stiffer Red

Cherry MX Clears-55 Gram Actuation Force,Tactile Bump no click,Siffer Brown

That's all i can think of at the top of my head,There are switch tests

u/TheLightningFlash · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

> For twenty bucks or less you can get a switch sampler from WASD on Amazon.

Sweet, this is great, thanks!!

For anyone interested, here is what he is talking about: Link -

u/DogZero · 1 pointr/Romania

> mici. În rest, au vreo 40 de dubioșenii la vedere, cu prețuri între 20 și 800 de lei, lucru irelevant având în vedere că toate

Salut, eu am un tester de la WASD de genul asta

Daca vrei neaparat sa cumperi, iti recomand sa te joci cu testerul inainte. Vezi care tip de switch preferi.

CM Storm Quickfire Rapid-I

u/KeyMastar · 1 pointr/GlobalOffensive

The key is simply to get a keyboard you like. One that feels good to you. You will do better if you feel comfortable using it. Many people will suggest mechanical, but if you honestly prefer the feel of rubber dome, go for it. I WOULD suggest perhaps looking on amazon for a kit that gives you a sample feel of a bunch of different mechanical key switches, such as this. It will give you a better idea or what you like before you commit a large sum of money to a keyboard full of them.

One final thing; keep in mind the strength and weight of your fingers. If you have small skinny fingers, mx greens are not for you. They require the highest force of all the cherry-mx switches to actuate. They will tire out your fingers with extended use. Otherwise, its completely your opinion based on comfort.

u/iAnonymousGuy · 1 pointr/buildapc

yep, trying them out is always the best approach. if they dont have a good range of switches you can always buy a switch tester on amazon and put some o-rings on for yourself.

u/6x9equals42 · 1 pointr/buildapc

I use a Corsair K65 compact for gaming and a DAS Ultimate at work. Cherry MX are really good, but they aren't necessarily better than other switches. If you don't have an easy way to try different keyboards you can get a switch tester:

u/sudo_rm_keyboard · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

If you have expendable cash, I would suggest getting a switch tester like this one. You wont know what switch is best for you until you try it. Kailh tend to be considered a bit "low end", but I suppose any mechanical keyboard would be an upgrade from a membrane.

u/g0atmeal · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

RGB is dependent on the user, but when you go mechanical you never go back. Invest in one of these:

and determine your favorite type. For gamers, it's usually red or brown switches. Reds don't have a "bump", but just go straight down with no resistance. So I recommend browns.

The K70 has both red and brown options. They feel quite different, so don't just pick one randomly. If you have any questions, PM me or post to /r/mechanicalkeyboards where we'd be glad to help.

u/craneomotor · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I went to a Microcenter recently and the only non-Corsair/Logitech/Razer boards they had were CoolerMaster, and they wouldn't allow me to open the box to test.

It's not a full keyboard, but OP could try something like a switch sampler to get an idea of how the switches feel.

u/4theswarm13 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Switch tester costs ~$85 :(

I'll have to make some phone calls and see if a local shop has a tester to use in store

u/Rullerr · 1 pointr/gaming

if you just want to test out different switches there are things like

I'm not sure there's a huge market for keyboards with different switch types on different keys (or if there is that the market would agree on what keys should get different keys).

u/QuiickLime · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

There are also quite a few available on Amazon such as here or this one. The differences between different testers being the number of switches and switches on the board (if you can really call it a board).

u/langtuqn2007 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Since I don't know which version your Razer BW is (2014 or <= 2013), you should try out what cherry MX switch is best for you by going to some shops that have mechanical keyboards or get this one.

After determining your switch type, go for the options below:

  • MX Red/Blue/Brown/Black: Ducky Shine 2/3/4, Das 3/4/Model S (This one has blank keycaps tho), Corsair K70/RGB, Filco Majestouch 2, Deck Hassium Pro, CM Storm Quickfire XT/Ultimate, WASD v2, Max NightHawk etc.

  • MX Clear/Green: WASD CODE 104, some CM boards (MX Green).
u/GambitGamer · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Sure, here's a good one from WASD.

u/AutomaticNarwhal · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

No problem. before you order I would recomend getting a switch tester such as this so you can be positive about what switch you want.

u/ColourfulHat · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Something like this might not be a bad idea, to get a feel for a couple different switch types.

Generally for 'gaming' Linear switches are most common, while for lots of typing, Tactile switches are fairly common.

u/Brutal-Force · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I am new to this, but I will take a swing. You have to ask yourself what you want out of your layout. Can you do without a Tenkey pad? Can you do without your cursor arrows? Do you need Home/Ins/Del/etc. Can you do without function keys? Do you mind using layers for your numbers? If you can't do without all of those keys, then you will want a standard keyboard. For starters, you are probably looking at a Ducky for starters. If you can work without all but the cursor arrows, then look at a TKL (ten key less board). Vortex makes a good assortment of TKL and 60% boards.

If as a gamer you want lighting, both Ducky and Vortex offer RGB versions and plain.

As for switch type, only you can tell. I can tell you that both MX Browns and Blues are clicky, but that is where my experience stops. They offer a switch tester where you can get all the switch types on one small board. It will give you an idea of what each switch does, but not necessarily give you the experience.

As for cost, both Vortex and Ducky can be had for less than $150, you can also look at r/mechmarket there are a lot of trades going on you could pick something up and if you didn't like it just throw it back up for trade.

Also take a look at

I hope this helps.

u/Combatical · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

G502 for the mouse, as for keyboard, youre going to want to start getting into the mechanical keyboard game.. And there are many types of switches with different feels to them. Get yourself a switch tester and try out the different kinds of keys and see which one you like the feel of the best.. My personal favorite are browns, but it varies widely from person to person. After that, check out the folks over at /r/mechanicalkeyboards they are pretty helpful and super knowledgeable on the topic.

u/Livngston · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I ordered the wasd switch tester

I realize it may be slightly different from Das keyboard feel (and I prefer look of Das). But at least this will give me idea of differences between switch feels.

u/silentdragoon · 1 pointr/keyboards

If you want more feedback, then mechanical keyboards are certainly worth a go. The ones I suggested (linears) provide some feedback, and you can get tactile switches (e.g. mx brown) which have a tactile bump right when the key is registered as well. There are also clicky switches, which have a tactile bump and an audible click at the point of actuation as well. It's all very fun and exciting, so definitely try out a cheap mechanical board and see if you like it, or get a key tester (Amazon US link here) to see the difference between different switches. I also wrote this guide to different switches which might be helpful.

u/JustNilt · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

You bet. If you can't find anywhere to try them, you can order one of these little "samplers". (If you're anywhere near Seattle, let me know and you can try mine.)

u/kurifatales · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards
u/DrazV2 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

You could get something like this,, to see which switches suit you

u/MrCrudley · 1 pointr/hondagrom

I got there mirrors on Amazon

They're definitely not super high quality but they look good and dont vibrate bad.

u/Wxxz · 1 pointr/DRZ400

Yeah, it wasn't too bad.

I like the mirrors alot, I've bought them twice now.

u/acoupladrinks · 1 pointr/motorcycles

Looks good. Why don't you give these mirrors a try? Their lines will go well with that headlight.

u/oddthought · 1 pointr/motorcycles

I have one of these and have really liked it. It's easy to use (just slip it on and tighten until there's a bit of friction) and easy to cancel (roll off the throttle). It's not expensive and it'll last forever.

u/ninjerginger · 1 pointr/motorcycles

I use this throttle lock thingamajigger, and it works really well for $30. Have to play with the tension a little to get it to hold correctly, but it's great to be able to take your right hand off completely from time to time and stretch/shake it out. A cramp buster doesn't do that.

Ear plugs, ear plugs, ear plugs. Also, I couldn't do long days on the interstate without podcasts and music. Stop and stretch every couple hours. Keep important stuff easy to access to make your rest stops more efficient. Kriega makes excellent soft bags.

u/mrrichardcranium · 1 pointr/CalamariRaceTeam

Oh totally worth it. that one was $30 and its made of metal so its pretty sturdy too.

u/mikeyshikari · 1 pointr/bikesgonewild
u/Diabetus97 · 1 pointr/motorcycles

I love the look of this reflective rim tape , although it's not completely lit up , it still looks good at night or with flash.

u/pdpbigbang · 1 pointr/motorcycles

I used this for my bike body and this for my wheels.
And this is what it looks like.
It's impossible for people to not see me.

u/MrDannyProvolone · 1 pointr/SVRiders

This is what I purchased. I put them on a year ago and they are still holding and looking good.

u/good_morning_magpie · 1 pointr/motorcycles

Here's the Amazon link to the wheel tape I used.

customTAYLOR33 (All Vehicles) Red High Intensity Grade Reflective Copyrighted Safety Rim Tapes (Must select your rim size), 17" (Rim Size for Most SportsBikes)

u/nugs_mckenzie · 1 pointr/motorcycles
u/Ginger_Beard_ · 1 pointr/Jeep

Yeah, I have the Sunpie head lights and fogs. There have been some mixed reviews on them, but they have been really good so far over the last month, requires some splicing, and the high beams flicker a bit, but overall they've been great for the price.

SUNPIE LED Headlights Bulb with Halo Angel Eye Ring & DRL & Turn Signal Lights for Jeep Wrangler JK LJ CJ Hummer H1 H2

u/jaecult · 1 pointr/CherokeeXJ

No, just tapped into the DRL and Blinker wiring (theirs YT videos) The lights are Sunpie 7"Round Halo for Jeep JK (H3 connector). You will need to find a way to mount them. I removed the headlight base and used a new mount (ordered from Amazon) for the new lights. You have alot of options for headlights, I just bought these because they were reasonably priced

u/scannie128 · 1 pointr/Jeep

I have these ones ( and they're great.
Super bright and clear as day. Everyone that rides with me is always impressed.

u/Nkognito · 1 pointr/Wrangler

I installed these, was a snap -

u/DaBeasKnees · 1 pointr/Harley

I got the one made by Sunpie on Amazon. Love it. 5-3/4 5.75 Daymaker LED Headlight for Harley Davidson Motorcycle Headlamp Projector Driving Light

u/schwickies · 1 pointr/sportster

I purchased this one: 5-3/4 5.75 Daymaker LED Headlight for Harley Davidson 883,sportster,triple,low rider,...

u/terriblesarcasm · 1 pointr/motorcycles

I got this LED headlight and the improvement was outstanding. My dad said he didn't even need to look in the mirror when I was following him because he could clearly see the light on the road. The next day he was looking online for LED headlights for his bike.

u/KySi · 1 pointr/Harley

Motorcycle 5-3/4 5.75 LED Headlight for Harley Davidson 883,sportster,triple,low rider,wide glide Headlamp Projector Driving Light

u/NoKneeHobbit68 · 1 pointr/Harley

No doubt. When you decide to, this light upgrade is a must. The stock headlight could probably be outperformed by my iPhone’s flashlight lol.

u/BigManRandall · 1 pointr/Harley

I can’t speak for clutch but for headlights and turn signals all I can say is Amazon. I got this LED Headlight:

And these front signals:

I have no complaints and they saved me probably $400 if I bought them from the dealership.

Read the reviews for reassurance if you’d like but they are a must have!

Hope this helps.

u/Rohin91 · 1 pointr/Harley

Which light??? Sorry I was on business. If you're talking about the headlight I got it as a steal from amazon. Wisamic 5-3/4" 5.75" Round LED Projection Daymaker Headlight for Harley Davidson Motorcycles Black 9 pcs Bulb

u/My_Awkward_Boner · 1 pointr/Harley

Thanks man!

The headlight is one of the cheap amazon ones. So far no issues.

Wisamic 5-3/4" 5.75" LED Projection Daymaker Headlight for Harley-Davidson Motorcycles 9 pcs Bulb-Black

u/cactusjuices · 1 pointr/SVRiders

I'm thinking something similar to this if anyone has tried it

Im fine cutting wires and splicing.

u/Blythix · 1 pointr/Harley

This is the one I bought 2 years ago. It has been running great! Plus, it shouldn't have any issues with any sporty, I put this on my 2014 iron, and then later my 04 roadster lol

Now that I look at that page again though, theres one with a halo, I might purchase it lol

u/Burnt_Luck · 1 pointr/MouseReview
u/orcus286 · 1 pointr/MouseReview

The 520 says its made for claw and the 530 for palm but I have a slight claw grip and I still liked the 530 better. If you do get it though, make sure to get something like this to put on the sides of the mouse:

u/eye_gargle · 1 pointr/MouseReview

get rubber for a softer feel or granulate for something a little more rough (you can sand it out with 120g sandpaper if it's too rough, just make sure you do this before you put it on).

u/dpayne360 · 1 pointr/MouseReview

Get some of this to use on it man. It would look much better than the wood grain

u/remembertosmilebot · 1 pointr/GalaxyS8

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:


Never forget to smile again | ^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

u/SaltyJunction · 1 pointr/MouseReview

TALON 998R Grips Sheet (Rubber-Black, 5 x 7-Inch)

u/tiberiu89 · 1 pointr/dualtron

I don’t like too many things sticking out of my Spider either..

I’ve been thinking...

Wouldn’t it be nice to have a deck like this one which could blink yellow, independently, on each side (left/right)? This way, we’d be seen from pretty much all angles.

Maybe something like this could be adapted somewhere on the sides of the deck? What do you think? :)

u/rr_power_granger · 1 pointr/motorcycles

Can anyone speak to fender eliminator kits such as these?

Also considering just removing the fender and trying to wire a strip like this

I like the minimalist look but don't want to sacrifice visibility.

Thanks for the help!

u/blobo88 · 1 pointr/bikesgonewild

Wiipro Universal led Harley Davidson Light Strip Tail Brake Stop Turn Signal 32LED 8" Flexible led light for motorcycle

Something like this could possibly work. I had a similar setup on a previous bobber.

u/UNOonTWO · 1 pointr/Ducati

Xitomer 2 PCS M10x1.25 Mirror Hole Plugs, For Yamaha FZ-09/ FZ-07, HONDA CRF250L/ CB1000R, SUZUKI SV650, KAWASAKI Z125/ Z400/ Versys 650, KTM DUKE 790, DUCATI, Triumph, BMW, Aluminum CNC

They do the job

u/Ballaholic09 · 1 pointr/MotorcyclePorn

LED headlight bracket

LED Headlights

Auxillary Light LED

Integrated Tail Light

Bar End Mirrors

Radiator Guard

Rear Swingarm Spools

Mirror Mount Block off

Frame Sliders
This company sells a larger set of spools & sliders that is great!

CS Escapamentos Exhaust

Wind Screen


Block off plate substitute this is for when you get a full exhaust, youtube "block off plates z900" for more info
The prices all vary and there's PLENTY of options elsewhere. I just happened to get these over time. I also bought an engine guard/cage on Amazon but never could get it to fit properly.

u/Adamantium711 · 1 pointr/Yamahabolt

You can get these if you get a mirror that mounts different than OEM. Cleans it up nicely.

u/SaltyProcrastinator · 1 pointr/FZ09

Mirror Hole Plugs These are the ones I'm using

u/K2TheM · 0 pointsr/motorcycles

Any bike can be keyless and have cruise control. You just need these Two Things.

u/beyondthetech · 0 pointsr/ElectricScooters

How reflective is it in normal lighting conditions?

I found this seller on Amazon and he says he can custom-make any of his reflective tape.

customTAYLOR33 (All Vehicles Blue High Intensity Grade Reflective Copyrighted Safety Rim Tapes (Must select your rim size), 17" (Rim Size for Most SportsBikes)

u/FrozenBananaMan · 0 pointsr/GalaxyNote8

Talon Grip Sheets!! Cheaper than d-brand just not cut to shape.

I got some to make tiny strips to put on the sides of cases that need more grip

Edit: Downvoted?? They work wonderful! /u/tlaatonmai here's the link

Here's some pictures:

u/zundra · 0 pointsr/FZ07

I can't recommend the R6 throttle tube mod enough. I did the mod last weekend and have been riding for a few days with it in place and it is glorious. The best $9 I've ever spent.

This guy walks through the install step by step

The link to the part

u/bluehairedpete · 0 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Yeah, just got my sampler:

Browns are terrible. Long live clears.