(Part 2) Best parts according to redditors
We found 2,301 Reddit comments discussing the best parts. We ranked the 1,259 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
For like $5 you can get a purpose-built pad for bikes.
So, here's the kit I bought.
The control box is around the size of a deck of cards. I stashed mine near the battery under my seat. Each LED strip has an attached wire, each pair has a different length. Connectors on everything, no soldering required.
The control box has 2 leads to connect to your battery, + is fused. I recommend installing a disconnect toggle somewhere, because there IS parasitic drain, and it WILL kill your battery over the winter. (Ask me how I know...)
It comes with a keyfob that lets you turn it on/off, change color, and change flash/pulse patterns. Really cool stuff.
I've had my bike apart for a dozen reasons, so I already had an idea about what made for good wiring paths, but in general, follow whatever is already there. Zip-ties (tweezers, lol) are your friend. Just piggyback with the stock wiring and you can be pretty sure that you're not going to run into clearance issues.
I'm pretty sure I took photos during the install, I'll try to track them down for you!
With a 125cc you've legally got a motorcycle and should really just follow how they work since you have a license plate. Just park in motorcycle parking next to other bikes there. I'm not sure where you are, but is motorcycle thefts big in the area? Personally, I don't worry about it too much (and I have a $10,000 scoot) because that's what insurance is for.
If you still want more security, consider something like the Grip-Lock. http://www.amazon.com/Grip-Lock-Motorcycle-Scooter-Security-Lock/dp/B0046QSKCO
I also have put horns on my bike:
Picture of the horns.
Test video. It's much louder than it sounds in the video. Much louder than a typical car's horns. I only use it for situations where I am not seen by a driver and in danger. Not for casual "fuck you, buddy" type of situations.
Originally I had this set up with industrial zip ties, but it was not a very robust setup, so I removed it before this past winter. The bike is currently sitting in pieces. When I reassemble it I will mount the horn components in a single, weather-resistant enclosure, with a quick-release attachment so I can take it with me when locking up outside.
parts:
I installed these CRG Bar End Mirrors on my 2012 Kawasaki Z1000. Expensive, yes, but the visibility is superb. I highly recommend them. Looks kind of like this
Headlight Housing (Amazon)
I requested larger fork clamps for the housing to fit the DNM USD-8 since they're 42mm diameter pistons.
Headlight itself (Amazon)
Switch Set (Amazon)
Power Switch (Amazon)
And then as far as the wiring, I crimped all my wires into molex. I use JST a lot but just to be safe with higher amps, molex gives some headroom.
You need to give more info:
Is this a dual battery system charged by your alternator while moving?
Will you use solar to recharge?
What type of trailer and how much “stuff” will be running?
Will you move the trailer every day or use it as a home base?
How much room do you have? (For 1 battery, 2 batteries, etc)
These are just a few questions to start.
Based on a guess (external, camper mount, and road trip), you can use a vented, marine, deep cycle like this: Duralast 29DP. And that will support some LED light strands, and a small fridge for a night or two, possibly more.
Based on my own application (usually daily charge from an over-sized alternator and run a National Luna fridge, and multiple lights), look for a sealed, lead acid, deep cycle battery. For $200 I can order a sealed lead acid from Amazon and that will run everything I need for a few days, then charging off my truck for a days drive.
[Renogy 12 volt Deep cycle AGM] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RFXHYK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_jwC3DbH19QZ6B)
Lithium batteries can’t be charged when the temp is below freezing. Besides, they cost a fortune (but last a long time tolerating heavy abuse)
Your question is very broad and there are a million varying applications.
Check out Expedition Portal. Start here if you want to read about a dual battery system .
Hey, bought the mirrors from amazon. there are cheaper options but the quality on the cheaper ones are shit.
To attatch the mirrors it is really helpful to have the right adapter, i bought the ones listed below, and they work great :)
Link adapter : https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bar-End-Adapters-Yamaha-FZ-models-Driven-DBEW-ADP-FZ/371944789007?epid=223528338&hash=item5699a3140f:g:2YcAAOSwgStbGhLV
Link Mirrors: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079KBDC9Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Cheap solution: https://www.amazon.com/KiWAV-Motorcycle-kickstand-support-outdoor/dp/B00CPGQ1GO
What you should do is buy a sealed lead acid battery, a power inverter, 12v clips to cig lighter and a charger.
I just picked those products as examples but that would work and would cost around $50. It could probably be cheaper if you look around.
Also the batteries in most small UPS are around 2 amp/hour while the one I picked is 8Ah.
And that would be pretty easy to use.
Are your flush mounts LEDs? The lower power they use means they function differently on a stock bike so you've probably had this issue the entire time and haven't noticed. Get a new relay
Wisamic 5-3/4 5.75 inch LED Headlight - with Halo DRL Compatible with Harley Davidson Dyna Street Bob Super Wide Glide Low Rider Night Rod Train Softail Deuce Custom Sportster Iron 883 -Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DVX9K99/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PPiyDbC43GZ8F
HOZAN Black 5.75inch Motorcycle LED Headlight Housing 5-3/4 LED Headlight Mount for Harley Honda Suzuki Kawasaki Vulcan Cruiser Bike Cafe racers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071D3TPQ5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_aQiyDb15VTRTP
If you find you are gripping too hard, try adding a Crampbuster or a similar wrist rest to the throttle grip. They're intended to allow you to hold the throttle open with your palm, but I find they also help remind me to keep my grip light, too.
So you took the existing rings off the stock crank, and just bolted a single, something like this (http://www.amazon.com/104mm-Single-Chain-Black-Speed/dp/B00D3FG5EY/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1463960659&sr=1-1&keywords=race+face+narrow+wide) in place? Still seems like I'm close to $200 going with those parts, but I haven't tried hunting for the cheapest prices on different sites yet.
Adding Grip Puppies to heated grips will extend the life of the grips indefinitely. And it makes them much more comfortable.
> I wanna go 1x10 but i´m having trouble knowing what i need, i was told http://www.amazon.com/104mm-Single-Chain-Black-Speed/dp/B00D3FG5EY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416311677&sr=8-1&keywords=raceface+narrow+wide&pebp=1416311548585
Yes, that'll do the trick for a chainring. If you don't have a clutch rear derailleur (Shimano Shadow Plus or SRAM Type 2), you should pick up one of those as well.
>I also wanted to pick up rockshox reverb stealth, but my bike does not have those holes for it, but the space under my seatpost is open so i´m thinking it can come out there... thoughts?
That should work. You could also get a regular Reverb and not have to deal with funky cable routing. From a service perspective though, I personally think the KS Lev is a better buy. My Reverb has been fine, but they can be a pain to bleed and there have been a fair number of people who have had issues. If you don't have a convenient service center in your country, something more user-serviceable might be a better idea.
>my seatpost is 31.6 x 350 but the smallest reverb i found is 31,6x380 so it´s longer, i´m a pretty short guy but from what i read the reverb can stop at any position, it does not have drop/middle/top
The important number is how much seatpost you have exposed above the seat collar. Minimum seatpost exposure for a 125mm Reverb is just short of 200mm from the seat collar to the saddle rails. Adjust accordingly for the 100mm and 150mm versions. While you can set the Reverb to any height, it's bad for the seals to keep it lowered for any length of time and it's also a pain in the ass to have to partially re-lower the seat every time you raise it back up. If you are unable to ride your bike with more than 163mm of exposed seatpost, you won't be able to use a dropper - afaik, the Reverb has the lowest collar-to-rail height, and that's the height of the 100mm version.
Awesome to hear another van dweller is in here! my current electrical design includes installing a two alternator system from nations and 4 100AH lithium batteries. That should give me enough power to run the speaker system, TV, Router and Modem and lighting for around 12 hours before needing to start the van and charge up the system. The automation is a total luxury, and adds the wow factor, but if implemented properly may be worth it to me. Budget isn't a huge issue, this will be the first house I ever build. My salary is pretty good and I'm spending $1500 a month to live here in southern california. Without the added rent expense I can justify making this thing an awesome place to live. Maybe a better idea would be adding a separate, solar electrical system with a 5th battery so that the wifi and automation system can stay on at all times.
Some options for storage available here - https://www.twistedthrottle.com/shop-by-bike/yamaha/mt-09-2018/luggage-racks-for-saddlebags
Perhaps for the price you should just consider a large top case.
As for the LED blinkers, you are totally correct. Most everyone "mods" their stock turns by putting ones directly attached to the headlight. It's almost impossible to see them at night. I prefer ones like these :O.
If you go LED blinkers you'll need one of These.
As for the exhaust, that M4 is one of the only options that can be fit to the stock header. The factory exhaust being one piece means you must CUT your factory exhaust to make the M4 fit. Honestly, it'll be so worth it though. Baffle in M4 sounds Great.
I used the Ambother kit on Amazon it was like 35$ or so and I have the aodonly dual exhaust which was 250$, worth every penny! Only been on for a week or two but it sounds great! Without the baffles in its a bit extreme😂😂
Ambother LED kit
Aodonly Exhaust
Had the same issue with a DB Hook. If it’s that cheap plastic piece above and below your chain ring, don’t bother with their chain guides, get a proper narrow wide chain ring and if you really want to, there’s this guide on amazon.
Origin8 Torqlite UL Chain Guide, Mini Clamp On (31.8 - 34.9mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008ZTLV9W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_U.CdBbYGY2MRT
Raceface makes a relatively cheap, well made narrow-wide chain ring.
RaceFace 104mm Single Chain Ring, Black, 32T 9/10/11 Speed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D3FG5EY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_waDdBbE7C18PJ
Talon gun tape. Amazon link here:https://www.amazon.com/TALON-Grips-Material-Sheet-7-Inch/dp/B071LJXKMP
This blanket draws 4.6 amps at 12 volts. One 35 amp hour SLA battery will power it for 7.6 hours. 35 amp hours / 4.6 amps = 7.6 hours. If you wire two batteries in parallel you'll double your capacity to 70 Ah. This will run your blanket for 15 hours.
You'll hurt your battery if you fully discharge it every night. So maybe take that into consideration especially if you have other stuff you want to be charging. A simple guideline is to have 1 watt of solar for every amp hour (Ah) of battery.
If your 100 watt solar panel can feed 8.3 amps to your 70Ah battery it'd take a little over 8 hours to fully charge. 100 watts / 12 volts = 8.3 amps. 70 Ah / 8.3 amps = 8.4 hours.
I suck at math but am fairly sure I'm doing this right. Hope this helps.
I thought about making something but in the end cheap product with amazon prime shipping won out. Sure a beer can will work but this looks a little better when you pull it out of a bag(or under your seat if you have storage space).
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CPGQ1GO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I ordered a few and gave them to friends that said they liked mine.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GZPH1G/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687402&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000GZPH2U&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0855DHPX59GJ8Y4JP2A7
That will help alleviate your wrist cramping.
2017 with 156 miles on it... original owner (and his son) road it a few miles and then accidentally dropped it off the back of a pickup truck.
The front wheel had a small bend/flat spot but he had it replaced before selling it to me.
New parts coming in tomorrow but I've been riding it with some basic stuff i slapped on it from my garage.
The damage so far:
Got a K&N airfilter and 4 oil filters + some 10-40 Yamalube coming too!
So stoked, already put about 120 miles on it :D
This thing is total goat, I had a DR250 which was an incredible bike too, but this thing is wild...
Edit - Any recommendations for stuff i should get or do to this bike? I'm following the break-in period, aiming for no more than 1/3 throttle until 600 miles, then 1/2 throttle till 1000. Oil changes along the way.
I use this cheap $12 headlight and I really like it.
LEORX 12V-80V 20W Motorcycle E-bike LED Headlight Lamp Car Accessories (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XVAEP8E?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
I mount one of these cheapy chinesium mirrors off my bar next to my control cluster. Even tightened down it wiggles a lil bit, but its held up to a few loops and whatnot.
This plus This and you are good to go in any post apocalyptic scenario.
Fuck yeah it is! Here you go mang!
This is what I used for my 06 altima ser with Bose Works perfect and super easy to install. Was my second time doing a install.
If you want a single battery, get a 100ah lithium iron phosphate... its gonna cost you though...
AGM batteries are only useful for 50% of their advertised AH rating vs like 80%+ for Lifepo, also lifepo are lighter weight, and have more recharge cycles.
I run 2 of these right now to get 100 useful AH, and I am hopeful that in ~3 years when its time to get new batteries the cost of LifePo will have come down b/c they really are vastly superior in every way.
I decided not to do the halo. This is the one I got: Akmties Motorcycle Headlight 5.75... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DXVSJJB?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
And this casing: HOZAN Black 5.75inch Motorcycle... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071D3TPQ5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Halo looks good but wasn’t worth the price jump to me.
> I just wish there was some sort of texturing
How about something like this? It's what I was planning to use on mine.
EDIT: Searching a bit more revealed this!
yup
I'm going to get a disc lock alarm and one of these to stick somewhere near the handlebars as a deterrent. No real gps tracker but it might stop some people who are thinking about it.
At home either store it in a garage or buy a cover and park it out of view of the road
>Strongest Motorcycle Chain Bolt Cutter Cropper Proof
>XENA (XX6-SS) Disc-Lock Alarm for Motorcycle
I don't personally have one, but I've heard good things about the Battleborn batteries.
Contrary to what a lot of people say, as long as you don't abuse them Lithium batteries (especially lifepo4) are pretty safe.
Kind of expensive though, sold as a single unit
Revzilla
Amazon
Prices are about the same on ebay as well but any "bar clamp" mirror should do the trick. I have kind of the same problem on the busa, solid bars so the standard bar end mirrors won't work but these do.
If you're iffy about the price, a lot of guys in my group ride with just one on whichever side they prefer.
Buy one of these or swap for an R6 throttle tube.... Or both...
Yea I agree with this. You could make it work but the reality is that its just not fun for long stretches on the interstate. By adding a windshield and replacing the rear sprocket on my Drz with a 39 tooth I was able to cruise comfortably a little bit faster. But eventually the commute just turned into a chore and I found myself not riding with my full attention, which led to a few sketchy situations with other commuters. Now i'm commuting in the car until I get a new bike, and keeping the drz for what it does best.
Renogy 200 Watt 12 Volt Monocrystalline Solar Starter Kit w/ 40A Rover MPPT Charge... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VY9DVY9/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_R4YRDbW552GF4
Krieger 1500 Watt 12V Power Inverter, Dual 110V AC Outlets, Installation Kit Inclu... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MS5BY6T/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_u-YRDbS0KJZC6
Renogy Deep Cycle AGM Battery 12 Volt 100Ah for RV, Solar Marine and Off-grid Appl... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RFXHYK/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_ybZRDb8WFGN0K
AMBOTHER 8Pcs Motorcycle LED Light Kit Strips Multi-Color Accent Glow Neon Lights Lamp Flexible with Remote Controller for Harley Davidson Honda Kawasaki Suzuki Ducati Polaris, 1 Year Warranty https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N7KH8MB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wh1ODb3P4ZFXY
Is the frame steel? I use a breaker bar to put about 100 ft-lbs on the lockring on my aluminum MTB's and they don't come undone.
That looks like it will be an insanely fun bike, please upgrade the brakes as fast as you can. I also recommend bright lights on every e-bike. I've been receiving much more respect since mounting two of these. They work day and night to disrupt some drivers' dangerous maneuvering. And the good drivers seem to appreciate the match of speed with lighting.
https://www.amazon.com/LEORX-12V-80V-Motorcycle-Headlight-Accessories/dp/B00XVAEP8E/ref=pd_sbs_263_t_0/146-8238102-6118412?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00XVAEP8E&pd_rd_r=7e6c1e65-8363-487f-9660-ca054d8dedfb&pd_rd_w=HhYc0&pd_rd_wg=pzkoL&pf_rd_p=5cfcfe89-300f-47d2-b1ad-a4e27203a02a&pf_rd_r=Q883XAQ321KZG1STWM8B&psc=1&refRID=Q883XAQ321KZG1STWM8B
It's crazy how stealth the Bafangs are in practice.
If you just need a little bit, get a Spitfire Slipstreamer. $62 and plenty durable.
Slipstreamer S-06C Motorcycle Windshield, Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GTUM9O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ICmNzb9QQ0ECF
Here's how it looks on mine:
http://imgur.com/0XJaxjz
I just used grip puppies. If you don't mind not using leather.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CP9ADD8/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_-eSUAbBDKBD5H
I'm looking at getting one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Grip-Lock-Motorcycle-Scooter-Security-Lock/dp/B0046QSKCO
Currently I Put a Disc-Lock on one bike and Chain up the other. I cover both when possible.
I've got a Gorilla alarm I've been meaning to install on my Stella.
I'm not too sure; but I would guess you could just use generic, like this. Or upgrade to LED turn signals and get one of these.
Doing what you're proposing will end one of three ways:
The adapter you listed are for specific amplifier models designed to accept speaker-level inputs via the RCA cables. These aftermarket amplifiers generally have a switch to change the input type from line level to speaker level so you don't go burning things up.
There probably is a plug and play solution out there to wire an aftermarket deck to your factory amplifier that isn't hacky. I suggest googling it. "[auto year make and model] retain factory amplifier" should do the trick. Like "1999 Nissan Maxima retain factory bose amplifier" results in a PAC ROEM NIS2 adapter.
You could use solar panels to charge a bank of batteries, and run everything from that.
There are plenty of 12v options for lighting and heating. You can install a power inverter to run any 110v tools and appliances you need.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079KBDC9Q?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share heres the link. I have them as well. Not sure if I'd recommend though unless you get other adaptors. They look nice though.
Some low-effort accessories that I like:
Or one of these. Just throw it in the trunk.
Not the exact manufacturer but they are the same
MZS Motorcycle Rear View CNC Bar End Mirrors for Honda GROM MSX125 CB500F/Kawasaki Z125 pro Z650 Z750 Z800 Z900 ER6N ER6F/Yamaha MT-03 MT-07 FZ-07 MT-09 FZ-09 MT-10 FZ-10 MT-25 FZ6 FZ8 FZ6R https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079KBDC9Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ibDdBbP74YE99
I have a buddy who is a machinist, so I had home just machine my bar ends. I thought the stock mirrors were fine till I had these. You can see so much more even though they are smaller.
https://www.amazon.com/TALON-Grips-Material-Sheet-7-Inch/dp/B071LJXKMP
It's better to be safe than sorry. You don't want to bring out all that gear only to find you can't turn it on.
You'll be fine with any of these with the top one being your best candidate. Just remember to be courteous to your neighbors if people are trying to sleep!
Xantrex 806-1210 PROwatt 1000 SW Inverter
MicroSolar 1000W (Peak 2000W) Pure Sine Wave Inverter
BESTEK® Dual 110V AC Outlets 1000w/1200w Max Car DC 12V to 110V AC Inverter Power
You'll probably want to get a fuse holder and a cable kit depending on how far you expect to keep the table from your car.
You could also go the more environmental route and get some solar panels to juice up a spare solar battery each day.
Just did some digging and here they are LED RELAY WITH LOUD TURN NOISE!!!!
Just a heads up, careful where you leave your bike. That ground looks pretty soft. Especially since its wet, theres a chance the stand could sink and bike will fall over. Same goes for asphalt on a hot summer day.
Something like this may save you from having to pick up your bike.
God I hope this formats correctly - I am a neophyte.
Exhaust - http://www.ixilusa.com/ixil-l3xb-black-hyperlow-xl-full-exhaust-yamaha-mt-07-2014-2015/
Super deep and loud sound - videos online don't do it justice, its unbelievably loud when the baffles are out. Had to have the cat cut out of it. Be aware they have a cat in the V section before the end of the pipe.
Removed the snorkel covering the airbox - I was told its basically blocks airflow.
ECU Flash / Dyno by 2wheelDynoWorks - https://2wheeldynoworks.com/shop/ecu-flashing-service/15-17-yamaha-fz07-mail-in-ecu-flashing-service/
Nels himself worked on my bike - super stoked (shout out to Nate too) They have the best customer service.
Active Tune - https://2wheeldynoworks.com/shop/ecu-flashing-service/yamaha-activetune-afr-closed-loop-self-tuning-ecu-kit-2/
Tune as you go
Bike side harness - https://2wheeldynoworks.com/shop/ecu-flashing-service/ftlink-v1-1-6-pin-bike-side-harnesses/
For tuning later
Windscreen - https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/puig-touring-naked-new-generation-windscreen-yamaha-mt-07-2018
I got light smoke, I think it goes better with the bike and pushes wind over my shoulders even at 80+ mph
Protection - https://tstindustries.com/Womet-Tech-Total-Crash-Protection-Pack-for-Yamaha-FZ-07-MT-07-2015.html
Basically got everything from this except the bar ends
Bar Ends - https://motostarz.com/collections/mt-07-2018/products/rhinomoto-barends-mirror-mounts-for-yamaha-fz-mt-models
Super easy to replace mirrors etc with these - and they add protection
Throttle tube - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005C59NO2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
90 to 60 degree conversion - its amazing for the price
Dash Screen Protector - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078SMP4ND/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Mirror stem deletes - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BN8QGPV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Current Mirrors - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N6GB7DZ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Mirrors in photo - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003RESHVU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I like the CRG Mirrors but they get bumped and are hard to readjust - the cheap ebay/amazon mirrors work great
Headlight replacement - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H6NZ5QW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Signal replacement LED bulbs - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XK4PL33/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Super bright replacements for stock bulbs - used the original housings, they plug right in
Running light LED replacements - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JRE38EA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
For inside the headlight housing
Tail Tidy - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BH5YGOM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Flasher Relay for LEDs - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RM26LXO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Levers - https://www.ebay.com/itm/CNC-Brake-Clutch-Yamaha-MT-07-FZ-07-2014-2018-Adjustable-Engrave-Long-Lever/123350737715?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3D17a37c1b2d204ffcba65903d19a97b4a%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D122997203335%26itm%3D123350737715&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
Passenger peg deletes - https://www.ebay.com/itm/for-YAMAHA-MT07-FZ07-Footrest-Cover-Passenger-Footpeg-Removal-Delete-Kit-2014/253869999740?hash=item3b1bd4c67c:g:3qEAAOSw0JVbm1FQ:rk:1:pf:0
I removed the passenger pegs, needed a bracket to hold the brake fluid reservoir - also cleaned up the pegs
Havent done the brakes yet - going to replace the lines etc with steel braid.
Also want to do a sprocket / chain swap for acceleration
I used a quadlock phone mount for a little bit - but took it off because I was playing with my phone too much.
Same thoughts here, and no vibrations either. I have these: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MYZ8GPF/
I really like my crampbuster. Pretty good use of $10 in my opinion.
Here is the base list:
The headlight:
https://modernmotorcycle.co/collections/headlights/products/headlight-7-black-cafe-style
The Brackets:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MAX-Razor-42mm-43mm-Motorcycle-Motorbike-Alloy-Fork-Mount-Headlight-Brackets-/171683771913?rmvSB=true
Bar end mirrors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003RESHVU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Bar ends:
https://www.solomotoparts.com/RhinoMoto-Bar-End-Slider-for-Threaded-Mirror-Mount-for-FZ1-6-6R-01-13/?variant=413202&gclid=CjwKCAiAlfnUBRBQEiwAWpPA6ciEA4_7LnX703r0ViirGVRMtk3ewBXmJAEsLxOKK1Rupah5Zht2zhoC3GMQAvD_BwE
You'll also need some M8x1.25 bolts to secure the headlight as well as some steel and rubber washers to keep everything secure.
It was extremely easy. I used this wiring diagram: http://s222.photobucket.com/user/HOTTTiEBOi7/media/g35_pacoem2_to_jvs_kw-avx820_zps17433e60.jpg.html
I had to splice some wires, but everything was plug and play from there. I wouldn't recommend the headunit/adapter combo I got because I had to sand down the adapter a bit to fit it over the head unit.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002VR5LLI/ref=mp_s_a_1?qid=1346985667&sr=8-3
Cost a little more than I remembered it costing. But I think it would be worth it to help protect your bike. But I think they're still working the kinks out of the bleach spraying system lol.
I am speaking from personal experience on my own car and I'm not sure if it'll pertain at all to your situation so take it however you want.
I own a 2006 G35 with factory bose amp and if I did not use the correct interface kit and spliced the headunit cables directly to the factory audio interface, i would experience the same exact symptoms you did. This was because on my car the bose amp needed to havea the correct signal supplied to which was only possible with this interface kit: https://www.amazon.com/PAC-ROEM-NIS2-Interface-Integrate-Amplifiers/dp/B000CE9OY2
again this is for my car and I dont know if you have a factory amp or anything but maybe its something you can look into
https://www.amazon.com/LEORX-12V-80V-Motorcycle-Headlight-Accessories/dp/B00XVAEP8E/ref=lp_10670500011_1_6?srs=10670500011&ie=UTF8&qid=1524337817&sr=8-6
Twelve bucks. Pick up a switch and fuseholder for another ~5 each. Just wire it in where the battery meets your controller. The voltage stepdown is built in so you don't have to think about it, and it's... really goddamned bright. I fashioned a different mount for mine because the included one is flimsy. There are two threaded holes in the body so you can get creative.
So I bough some cheap $30 mirrors for my Buell. They kind of look cheap from close up. But I can't live without them now...
http://imgur.com/a/35W9j
This time around I bough the Arrow mirrors... They haven't arrived yet.
http://www.amazon.com/CRG-Mirror-Arrow-Black-AO-100/dp/B003RESHVU
With all the things I still want to buy, I made this to illustrate my new problem.
http://imgur.com/myWvcAX
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-Sealed-Lead-Acid-Car-Motorcycle-Battery-Charger-Rechargeable-Maintainer-YK-/152151069810?hash=item236ce91472:g:M6IAAOSw-KFXdlI6&item=152151069810&vxp=mtr
https://www.amazon.com/Sealed-Lead-Battery-Charger-D1724/dp/B001G8AIMU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467867243&sr=8-1&keywords=lead+acid+charger
you can go more expensive if you want a faster charge
Like this?
https://www.amazon.com/Grip-Lock-Motorcycle-Scooter-Security-Lock/dp/B0046QSKCO
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079KBDC9Q/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_SkkjDbBZ10E36
These are decent but require a little modification, they beat paying 100 dollars a mirror from CRG. The bearing is a little loose , I just taped it up to give it a little more resistance and works perfectly now.
200w of solar panels is actually quite a bit for most lithium batteries. You're probably better off (financially) in investing in just a single 100w panel and deep cycle lead acid battery like this one.
In fact, a single 100w panel can keep two of the listed batteries charged on most days with moderate sunshine, no sweat.
LED headlight bracket
LED Headlights
Auxillary Light LED
Integrated Tail Light
Bar End Mirrors
Radiator Guard
Rear Swingarm Spools
Mirror Mount Block off
Frame Sliders
This company sells a larger set of spools & sliders that is great!
CS Escapamentos Exhaust
Wind Screen
Levers
Block off plate substitute this is for when you get a full exhaust, youtube "block off plates z900" for more info
The prices all vary and there's PLENTY of options elsewhere. I just happened to get these over time. I also bought an engine guard/cage on Amazon but never could get it to fit properly.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MYZ8GPF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_s7WDDbJJR89XP
Get one of these. Easy to use and the best 30$ ever. No one can cut it. Saved my motorcycle which was stored on the street.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/Grip-Lock-Motorcycle-Scooter-Security-Lock/dp/B0046QSKCO&ved=2ahUKEwjYuMSz7ODkAhUGiqwKHebIAXUQFjAAegQIAhAB&usg=AOvVaw3I3sphlcJcbvcbDLWbXlvU
I'm not a 100% sure... I bought all the parts and then had a shop install it...
I did purchase this so I was under the assumption that the Bose stuff was still being used: PAC ROEM-NIS2 System Interface Kit to Replace Factory Radio and ... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CE9OY2/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_t1_kewKBbKMG7D5B
The installer said he wasn't needed, but I didn't get it back, so I'm not sure if it was installed or if they just kept it.
Hi there!
My friend is going abroad and i want him to pick up a few things for my bike.
I wanna go 1x10 but i´m having trouble knowing what i need, i was told
http://www.amazon.com/104mm-Single-Chain-Black-Speed/dp/B00D3FG5EY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416311677&sr=8-1&keywords=raceface+narrow+wide&pebp=1416311548585
is going to work for me but i just want to make 100% sure
this is my bike
http://www.vitalmtb.com/product/guide/Bikes,3/Mongoose/Teocali-Expert,6360#product-specs
I also wanted to pick up rockshox reverb stealth, but my bike does not have those holes for it, but the space under my seatpost is open so i´m thinking it can come out there... thoughts? my seatpost is 31.6 x 350 but the smallest reverb i found is 31,6x380 so it´s longer, i´m a pretty short guy but from what i read the reverb can stop at any position, it does not have drop/middle/top
So, you don't want the cheap PWM controllers they sell in those kits. They're inefficient and can't handle nearly the load you're looking for, from the sound of it.
Charge Controllers:
Yep, additional panels will require a much heavier controller. You're looking at a quite sizable system to run an air conditioner.
I'd recommend a Midnite Classic 150 or one of the larger Victron charge controllers.
Panels:
As far as panels, I'd recommend you look into ordering a pallet or two of utility-scale, 60 cell panels. There's a lot of brands out there, but all perform almost equally. The real decider is price per Watt and warranty coverage, at least for me. I've got a lot of different panel brands, Canadian Solar, Trina Solar, Renogy, some Solar City ones iirc. I don't really have too much brand loyalty here.
Don't buy the 100 Watt panels designed for RV mounting though... they're expensive per Watt. You want to be around ~60-70 cents per Watt or less when buying panels.
Batteries:
Don't buy marine batteries like the one you linked to. You want at the very least, purpose built deep cycle AGM ones like these:https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Battery-Marine-Off-grid-Applications/dp/B075RFXHYK/
Again, unless I'm misunderstanding what you want to use this system for, a single flooded marine battery is not going to cut it.
​
EDIT:
The battery you linked to needs at least ~300 Watts to 'normally charge' it, in South Florida on a sunny day. But again, that's with no load on it. It doesn't really make sense to talk about charging a battery without establishing what your loads are first.
It is a problem if it's soft soil. I take this kickstand pad with me whenever I'm on a longer ride.
Definitely. I mean if these don't work for you or they break then maybe invest in ones that are bit more expensive. Again, up to you though.
Difference between the one I posted and the one OP has is the ones on Amazon are foldable
Here's the link: Black Foldable 3" Round 7/8" Handle Bar End Side Mirrors for Harley Davidson Honda Kawasaki Suzuki Yamaha Cruiser Dirt Bike Scooter ATV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MYZ8GPF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_j1B4Bb765V5Q9
Thank you so much for the information, I'll have to measure it out when i get home.I had intended to start with 1 and work my way up to 4 if it worked well.
So Batteries, probably the most technical portion of this part. So looking at [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Battery-Marine-Off-grid-Applications/dp/B075RFXHYK) There is a lot of words in here that are challenging me. Whats the best way to assess what would actually be needed for the job? Can you chain multiple if you exceed capacity on 1 battery?I should take an electrical class...
It is unlikely that you will be able to power a heater with solar power; heaters simply require too much electricity. A sleeping bag rated for the temperature you will experience is probably the most effective thing for you.
A quick look at Amazon shows the Nintendo switch has a wall outlet power adapter that outputs 5v at 1.5a. Assuming that is correct, you can charge your electrical devices from a wall outlet at McDonalds or Starbucks, or from a cigarette lighter adapter in your car. If you won't be in cities or won't be driving daily, a small solar panel and battery (I like that battery for its dual inputs, which makes it charge twice as fast) will likely be sufficient. Price for solar panel and battery about $100.
If you need more electrical power, put a roof rack on your car, then buy a battery and a 100-watt kit from Renogy (the kit includes mounting hardware, cables, a solar controller and instructions to wire everything together). Price for solar panel kit and battery about $400.
It's talon grip tape from
Amazon link : https://www.amazon.com/TALON-Grips-Material-Sheet-7-Inch/dp/B071LJXKMP?th=1&psc=1
And it's the one I bought from aliexpress which is cheaper than the talon grip but similar to it.
Link : https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32933326999.html?pid=808_0000_0101&spm=a2g0n.search-amp.list.32933326999&aff_trace_key=804d056dcb044953931fc19c8601cf02-1555125843610-05253-UneMJZVf&aff_platform=msite&m_page_id=PAGE_VIEW_IDCLIENT_ID(aefeMsite)NAV_TIMING(navigationStart)
As you might see in my other post, I recently picked up a Nighthawk as my new daily. She runs great but my commute is 45 miles of highway each way every day, and with recent wind storms in my area it has been brutal. So I think I'm going to put a small windshield on and could use some recommendations.
I've poked around online and it looks like there wasn't an option for any kind of factory windshields or fairings that I can find, so I was thinking of something like this. Just big enough to provide a small amount of cushion against the gusts. Are there better options/brands/deals?
I lived in a ghetto apartment complex and that is exactly what I did. I ran the chain through the frame and around a big pipe that went through the ceiling and floor. Then I parked my car in front of it so that no one could wheel it out even if they did break the chain and lock. But it was just an old GS500. If I had a late model sportbike I doubt it would have gone a week without getting stolen.
https://www.amazon.com/XX6-SS-Disc-Lock-Alarm-Motorcycle-Stainless/dp/B002VR5LLI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499878417&sr=8-1&keywords=xena+alarm
https://www.cyclegear.com/accessories/stockton-721-security-chain-and-lock
https://www.amazon.com/XYZCTEM-Season-Waterproof-Motorcycle-Lockholes/dp/B0142IHKX0/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1499878506&sr=1-1&keywords=motorcycle+cover
I just cut, soldered, and used good glue filled shrink wraps. Im sure if you are not comfortable with that type of installation you could find connectors to plug it right in.
LEORX 12V-80V 20W Motorcycle E-bike LED Headlight Lamp Car Accessories (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XVAEP8E/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apip_cnhZRX91yCbdx
http://www.amazon.com/XX6-SS-Disc-Lock-Alarm-Motorcycle-Stainless/dp/B002VR5LLI
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079KBDC9Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_UJ3RDbSDWBE33
That’s the pair I have. The first pair i ordered were to low and got in the way. These are much much better. And they are holding up good. And congrats on the Z! It’s a awesome bike!
I don't doubt you're going this fast, I just recommend that people who regularly exceed 25 mph (on streets with 2-way traffic or many cross streets) use lights bright enough to grab attention in the daytime. Here are very easy ones to install.
https://www.amazon.com/LEORX-12V-80V-Motorcycle-Headlight-Accessories/dp/B00XVAEP8E/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=leorx&qid=1570057261&s=gateway&sr=8-9
Getting something like this: https://www.amazon.com/TALON-Grips-Material-Sheet-7-Inch/dp/B071LJXKMP
and trimming it to fit your mouse might be the best bet.
Thanks, yeah it’s a super cheap light on Amazon too: https://www.amazon.com/Headlight-Housing-Davidson-Motorcycle-Kawasaki/dp/B071D3TPQ5
I’m using just the light, no metal can, and making a custom dash and light can.
I dunno man, there are a shit ton of factors. I live in Florida, 2 hours from Miami on I75, 3 hours on US41... I headed to Miami once , fully geared , and an hour and a half in I turned around. It was miserable as fuck . It was too hot. And your ass starts aching . And for a long trip , most certainly get one of these - Cramp Buster Cruise Assist Standard Long Size Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GZPH1G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_frKNzbQPPQY1Q , cause your hands get tired...I dunno . I don't have long experience o motorcycles , this is my first one and I only have ~3500 miles on it, but this was not a great experience. In town though it's awesome.
I know I need fuses but I don't know how big, and I know the battery is small but its what I can afford right now I'll get a bigger one later. If someone could just tell me what else I need and draw me a schematic, that would be a big help.
BESTEK 400W Power Inverter DC 12V to AC 110V Car Adapter with 5A 4 USB Charging Ports https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UFERZKO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_W1gqnxKEimW27
35AH 12V DC DEEPCYCLE SLA SOLAR ENERGY STORAGE BATTERY https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008D5YG3G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_RYM9yc9uIJBdu
Renogy 100 Watt 12 Volt Monocrystalline Solar Starter Kit with 20A Rover MPPT Charge Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WGW485F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_EuTJwlC55xZgQ
You dont need to replace the BB unless there's something wrong with it. To go to 1x just get some of these and a chainring
Glad the info helped! Let's say you're using 100 watts (Xbox with TV). It sounds like you may be using only 90 watts, but we want to allow for electrical inefficiencies so we add 10% to your usage, so in this case that's 99 watts. Let's say 100 watts for simplicity and for a little extra margin.
The GoalZero website says their battery has 280.8 amp hours (Ah). You don't want to discharge a lithium battery more than 90%, so your real capacity is 252.7 Ah (280.8 * 0.9). Your system uses 8.34 amps (100 watts / 12 volts = 8.34 amps). To find out how many hours you can power your system on this, divide your Ah by amps, so 252.7Ah / 8.34A = 30.3 hours...which means your math is correct :) Keep in mind that it will take around 9 hours to recharge this battery.
A little more math: You can get a 100Ah lithium battery for $950, a 600 watt pure sine inverter for $220, and a lithium battery charger for $175. Throw in $20 for cabling and you're up to $1,365, so let's say $1,400 if there's any extra shipping. That's less than half the cost of the GoalZero and you'd get 10.8 hours of play from it, and recharge time would be 3.3 hours.
If you get two batteries, your numbers would be $2,315, 21.6 hours of use, with a recharge time of 6.6 hours.
I'm not saying you shouldn't get the GoalZero since it may be the perfect solution for your needs. Just trying to show you other possible choices.
Black Foldable 3" Round 7/8" Handle Bar End Side Mirrors for Harley Davidson Honda Kawasaki Suzuki Yamaha Cruiser Dirt Bike Scooter ATV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MYZ8GPF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_csuUAb7HSG4BG
Best Buy did not sell me that adapter, unfortunately.
While researching the LP6-4 I stumbled upon this: https://www.amazon.com/PAC-ROEM-NIS2-Interface-Integrate-Amplifiers/dp/B000CE9OY2
$20 cheaper and addresses the issue of connecting to Bose amps in a Nissan. Just ordered it - will update after I hook it up.
You look to be on the right track. I just bought a fishfinder for my kayak.
This is the battery I bought
Along with this charger
I also picked up this waterproof box that I've seen a lot of people use to put the battery in. Do a google search for DIY fishfinder battery box.
Good luck, I'm on the east coast so I have to wait for it to warm up before I get everything on the yak
get this thing it minimizes wrist movement and some short levers that should solve everything
I've heard good things about the Spitfire. I'll probably pick it up. Handlebar mounted, which I like.
exhaust
[mirrors] (https://www.amazon.com/Foldable-Mirrors-Davidson-Kawasaki-Cruiser/dp/B01MYZ8GPF/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1522495931&sr=1-2-spons&keywords=bar+end+mirrors+z125&psc=1)
Depth of discharge.
I'm not sure how you get triple the cost for lithium, even if you can only buy from Amazon and only count up front cost. You're looking at 4x$170 lead batteries or 2x $500 lithium ones (in both cases the cheapest ones Amazon sells), which means $680 vs $1000. For triple the cost ($2040) you could buy name brand lithium instead (Battle Born or Renogy). And of course you're looking at 3000-5000 cycles to 90% DoD from the lithium rather than 300-500 to 50%... that extra zero really does affect the cost per cycle.
I've been using these for 2 years. Helps with throttle control too.
https://www.amazon.com/Grip-Puppy-Comfort-Grips-Original/dp/B00CP9ADD8/
> Would a 6v 12ah battery with a LDO regulator work?
It should work. LDOs have a maximum efficiency of output_voltage / input_voltage. In this case, you'll only get 83% of the juice, at least 17% of it will be "wasted" in the LDO.
83% is pretty good, A buck-converter will be around 90% if you wanted to go there.
> How would I recharge it?
Depends on the chemistry. 6v 12aH sounds like lead-acid to me, so I'd bet you need something like this (I dunno if that's a good charger, just picked the first one on Amazon). 500mA is going to charge very slowly however... maybe find a better charger, lol.
> I wanted a very high capacity battery so it can withstand several charges but that can also be recharged, even if it takes a long time.
If you're going with Lead Acid chemistry, you'll want to make sure you get a deep-discharge model. Lead Acid batteries basically come in two flavors: shallow-discharge (like Car batteries), and deep-discharge / deep cycle.
Shallow Discharge need to stay at maximum-charge most of the time, otherwise their internals start to corrode. Deep Discharge still has the same problem, but there are more anti-corrosion measures. Even then, you really are only supposed to go down to 45% charge or so.
---------
Other battery chemistries (Lithium or NiMH) have their own issues. Do a little bit of study on the battery type you plan to use
It's a Piranhamax 150 I picked it up at Academy for $50 during a sale. I think it's regular $80, it works pretty good I have no complaints. I tried to mount the transducer to the hull but I kept kicking it loose so I just wrap the cord around the base of my mount (you can see in the picture) and drop the transducer in the water just below the hull of my yak.
It's hooked up to a 12v battery stored in a dry bag I bought on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/UPG-Security-12V-7-2Ah-Certified-Electronics/dp/B001MHSCWI/ref=sr_1_2?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1373486574&sr=1-2
Don't forget the charger either!: http://www.amazon.com/Sealed-Battery-Charger-UPG-D1724/dp/B001G8AIMU/ref=pd_bxgy_e_text_y
Looks like this one
Slipstreamer S-06C Motorcycle Windshield, Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GTUM9O?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Standard 7/8 mirrors
7/8 Mirrors
I bought This and kind of feel like a pud for spending $7
Yeah, it's a Slipstreamer. Specifically, this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000GTUM9O/ref=redir_mdp_mobile?ref_=pe_385040_121528360_TE_dp_1
Installs very easily, stays put, comes off easily, and looks like it was made for the bike. I would def recommend. I probably prefer the looks of a bike without a screen, but it makes a big difference in comfort when riding at higher speeds.
I'd get some taps to splice into your existing wires. One of the photos has the color code on it for the wiring. Looks to be red ground, white running, black brake, yellow left turn and green right turn. I wouldn't waste time with adding resistors. If you are keeping your stock lights also, you shouldn't encounter an issue, but you can always replace your mechanical relay with an electrical one. Just find out if yours is two or three pin and get a replacement like this.
2010 Phantom here. I got pretty much everything on amazon, save for the seat and bags.
I just got done installing a Memphis Shades Batwing with lower deflectors, and a Ultimate seat with backrest on mine a couple weeks ago. The 6" recurve/spoiler windshield I ordered for the batwing is a bit to short for me (I'm 5'8"), which causes wind buffeting around my helmet. I'm still debating on going for a 9" spoiler or 11" standard. The seat, while being a bit more firm, is a lot more supportive than the stock one. I haven't had the chance to test out the backrest yet, but it seems like it will make longer trips much more comfortable/tolerable.
The Viking Bags I got for it should have been a bolt on affair, but they conflicted with the shock and seat so I brought the bike to a local shop to get them installed properly and the turn signals relocated. I should have ordered the shock cutout versions, but didn't check until after the return date, oh well, live and learn.
Some other universal things I installed myself were Grip Puppy comfort grips, motorcycle bar phone mount, bluetooth remote control with bar mount.
Ok, so I need some help finding a 7-inch headlight bucket that I can put a led light into but the thing is it has to have a lot of junk in the trunk because of the number of wires I have to shove in so it needs a hole in the back of it too.
This is what I'm currently using. If I can get something like this but 7in it would be perfect. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071D3TPQ5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Think I'll just get something like this then since it's much cheaper than m7000 cranks. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00D3FG5EY/ref=ox_sc_act_image_3?smid=A2RNBXAVQ4OOHG&psc=1
Arrows are a waste of money honestly. Imitation ones from Amazon work well and fit. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B079KBDC9Q?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title
Was able to use even with bar end slider because they give a long bolts I just had to trim.
These are the lights I choose.Lights the install is simple the real issue trying to hide them and also prevent them from getting burned by headers and or engine. I also discount the lights cord so they dont randomly eat power from my battery only cut it on if I am riding at night
I use a disc brake alarm, they are really loud and you have to get them off super fast if you don't want an earful of bloodcurdling beeping, but much smaller and more effective then a big chain that can just be cut. http://www.amazon.com/XX6-SS-Disc-Lock-Alarm-Motorcycle-Stainless/dp/B002VR5LLI/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1398705622&sr=1-4&keywords=disc+brake+lock+motorcycle