Best automotive replacement ignition parts according to redditors

We found 368 Reddit comments discussing the best automotive replacement ignition parts. We ranked the 185 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Subcategories:

Automotive replacement ignition armatures
Automotive ignition ballast resistors
Automotive replacement ignition capacitors
Automotive replacement ignition coil ground straps
Automotive replacement ignition coil lead wires
Automotive replacement ignition coil on plug boots
Automotive ignition coil packs
Automotive replacement ignition coil resistors
Automotive replacement ignition coils
Automotive ignition modules
Automotive insulating compounds
Automotive ignition distributors & parts
Automotive replacement engine computers
Automotive ignition glow plugs
Automotive replacement ignition hall effect pickups
Automotive replacement ignition HEI conversion kits
Automotive replacement ignition HEI heat sink compounds
Automotive replacement igniters
Automotive ignition lock cylinders
Automotive replacement ignition magentic pickups
Automotive replacement ignition plates with sensors
Automotive electrical connectors
Automotive replacement ignition pole piece assemblies
Automotive replacement ignition pole piece with plates
Automotive replacement ignition reluctors
Automotive replacement ignition retard devices
Automotive spark plugs & accessories
Automotive replacementignition stators
Automotive replacement ignition systems & kits
Automotive replacement ignition tolerance rings
Automotive replacement ignition trigger wheel assemblies
Automotive ignition tune-up kits
Automotive replacement ignition vacuum advances
Automotive replacement ignition points & condensers

Top Reddit comments about Automotive Replacement Ignition Parts:

u/dkman22 · 55 pointsr/LatinaCuties

You'll want to add a fuse, it's the safest way to go about it and super easy. https://www.amazon.com/BUSS-HHH-Amp-Add-Fuse/dp/B000GKEXK2

u/roostercrowe · 37 pointsr/KidsAreFuckingStupid

you degaussed the screen. there are products out there specifically made for that purpose

https://www.amazon.com/Waldom-Degaussing-Coil-Color-Power/dp/B00011UYJU

u/jizzpop · 25 pointsr/whatisthisthing

Looks like a Degaussing Coil for older CRT monitors.

u/dyniper · 25 pointsr/ouya

How to make trigger buttons smooth as butter:

The problem is that there is no grease on the plastic-on-plastic movement of the triggers. I did that for both my controllers (maybe I should have made a video...):

  1. Remove the 2 face plates and batteries
  2. Remove the 6 screws of the controller and open it up
  3. Get yourself non conducting grease (like this one)
  4. Apply one small dot of grease at all these areas http://imgur.com/bv5wEWN (basically everywhere plastic slides on plastic)
  5. Action the trigger many times to distribute the grease
  6. Re-assemble the controller, and enjoy stick-free triggers.

    I really wish Ouya would have done that first-hand. It is a very easy thing to fix that would not have cost them much... Hope that helps!

    Edit: fixed link
u/hutacars · 12 pointsr/cars

Stage 1+, and yeah I’m running NGK Iridiums, these to be exact. It’s just cylinder 3, and when I replaced it for the second time I noted the plug was loose whereas the other 3 were not. All were torqued to spec the first time, so idk.

Now it probably needs a new plug again, but oddly the symptoms are intermittent— it seems to run fine 99% of the time, but sometimes when getting into boost, it’ll start to stutter, and even less often it’ll throw a CEL. Then the CEL goes away a week or two later. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

u/MistaHiggins · 8 pointsr/pcmasterrace

If you find the space bar rattles too much, buy a tube of this and use a tooth pick to put a bit around the stabilizers. Just did on my wife’s keyboard that looks like a similar keyboard sold by monoprice and it’s almost completely silent.

u/inimitablegeek · 7 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

You've got pretty much everything you need for a solderless build on that list


If you want to save ~$50, you could get your stabilizers and switches elsewhere. Outside of Zeal's offerings, Kailh's BOX Black switches are probably the smoothest unmodded linears on the market, and you can get 70 for $21 from NovelKeys.


They also sell Cherry screw-in stabilizers for $2~3 each, if you don't mind them not being gold-plated. I've never tried Zeal's stabilizers, but imho, clipping, lubing, and bandaid-modding Cherry ones will probably make them feel just as good to your fingers as any more expensive kind would. The only thing you'd probably need to get is dielectric grease, which you'd only need a few drops of per stabilizer.

u/anthonyooiszewen · 7 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

To quote one of my recent comments about silencing stabilizers:

---
---

I've spent tons of time researching and modding stabilizers and here's the method I use to make them as silent as possible:

---

Let's Build: KBD75 + Zealios 65g (YouTube)
[stabilizer modding starts at 12:11]

---

What you'll need:

  • Genuine Cherry stabilizers
    • This is the most important component of a silent build. Don't waste your time with the cheap Chinese replicas.
    • Zeal stabilizers are fairly quiet out of the box but not everyone wants to spend that kind of money

  • Finish Line Extreme Fluoro 100% DuPont Teflon Grease

    • Use this for plastic-on-plastic contact areas (i.e.: stabilizer housing inner walls)

  • Permatex Dielectric Tune-Up Grease
    • Use this for metal-on-platic contact areas (i.e.: stabilizer wire tips and long side of bends)
    • Some use this for plastic-on-plastic but I hate how it gums and slows everything down; I use this grease mainly to fill up any gaps between the wire and plastic parts of the stabilizer - the primary source of stabilizer rattle.

  • Fabric/cloth bandages
    • This serves two purposes:
      • Fills the gap between the stabilizer housing and the PCB to minimize wobble and thus, rattle (not a problem with screw-in stabs)
      • Cushions the bottoming out of stabilizer inserts. The inserts extend beyond the stabilizer housings when pushed all the way down and strike the surface of the PCB, leading to a loud "clack" and additional vibrations/movement that might cause the metal bits to rattle.

    • We use fabric instead of the water-resistant stuff (or tape) so that it absorbs and holds the dielectric grease.

      ---
      ---

      This is what they should sound like:

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mMIC1ZQ8Grw
u/fratdaddyZC · 7 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

While I’m waiting on my Lumina to come in, I figure I’d do a cheaper, experimental tactile build.

Keyboard: Duck Sidewinder Gray

  • Duck Sidewinder

    Stabs: GMK Screw in Stabalizers w/ Walker Mod (no adhesive sticker)

  • GMK Screw in Stabalizers

  • Permatex Dielectric Grease

  • Orings

    Switches: Holy Razers

  • Greetech SMD RGB bottoms

  • Outemu ICE V2 tops

  • Halo True stems

  • Krytox 205 GPL 0

    Butyl Rubber

  • Non Adhesive for the case

  • Adhesive for the spacebar

    Keycaps:

  • Blue Grey XDA Keycap Set

    I needed something to scratch my itch while I wait for my Lumina, so I decided to pick up the Duck Sidewinder and screw around with some mods. I have a bunch of halo’s and Outemu Ice V2’s lying around, so I decided to pick up some Greetech switches to mess around with. After lubing them up with Krytox 205, I had a good set of holy razers, and I’m pretty happy with them.

    I’ve used butyl rubber to deaden the sound in my keyboards before, but this is the first time using it on the spacebar. I actually like the added weight in the spacebar, and I had no idea if I would or not.

    As far as the caps go… Truth be told, I’m not much of a fan, but I was hoping the dark blue would bring out the blue tones in the case, and I think it did pretty well. I’ll keep them on for bit and see if they grow on me. It's just hard to find a good set of caps that are colemak compatible. Currently I'm waiting on these.

    I’m pretty excited to have this as my daily driver for awhile :)
u/YarrJay · 6 pointsr/ft86

Equipment

  • Nexus 7 2013 w/ Timur's kernel (still in closed beta - open for donors)
  • Custom 3d printed housing
  • Alpine KTP-445U 4-channel Power Pack Amplifier
  • USB OTG Cable - Modified to fit
  • DC-DC Converter
  • Behringer UCA202 USB DAC
  • Bluetooth OBD2 Adapter - For getting real-time data into the Torque app
  • Add-a-fuse
  • Ground loop isolator ** Item still needs to be tested. This was purchased to hopefully eliminate a popping noise i get when first powering on the system

    Must Have Apps

  • GMD Gesture Control - Since i have no physical volume control buttons anymore GMD gesture control allows me to setup custom gestures like a 2-finger swipe to access volume control.

    Very excited to be ~95% complete with the install. A couple things left:

  • pull out the double-din housing i made and put the top on it which also includes a fan
  • address a 'popping' sound when turning on the system. possibly caused by the amp turning on before everything else? still seeking a solution here

    More than happy to try to answer questions for anyone else looking to do the same thing. Very happy with the outcome thus far.
u/[deleted] · 6 pointsr/cars

Ok, that's just a run-of-the-mill terminal end. Looks like the (old) battery was leaking acidic fumes at the terminal. My suggestion would be: Clean it thouroughly using a small wire brush or sandpaper, put some terminal grease (whatever it is called in the states, this for example) on generously and reconnect it. Turn on the headlights, high beams and some other stuff in your car without the engine and feel whether the connector gets hot. If not, you're golden. If it does, you can replace this with any terminal adapter that is long enough to reach your ground cable, no need to buy a Chevrolet branded one.

Attention: The white stuff on the terminal is probably lead oxide. Highly toxic, do not breathe in the dust, wash your hands after cleaning or preferably wear gloves.

u/Apotropaic_Sphinx · 6 pointsr/CherokeeXJ

There is a TSB for misfires on 2000-2004 4.0L engines. Here is the part.

Other possible causes:

  • Plugged precats
  • Bad valve springs
  • Bad fuel injectors
  • Bad fuel pump
u/tpw_rules · 5 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

They make add-a-fuses which are cheap and super easy to install. Pick one up next time you're at the parts store and whack it in for peace of mind. I used one to install my dashcam.

u/RTB779500 · 5 pointsr/techtheatre

For countryman E6s, we ALWAYS make sure to use the response caps to keep makeup out of the diaphragm. Also, the cables run about $60, as you know. Making sure people are careful with them is our biggest problem here, we burn through cables like candy when we do kids shows.

For especially sweaty actors we like to use dielectric silicone (https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2) to seal the connection between the headset and the cable. Keeps everything nice and waterproof but still conducting.

I have owned a set of 12 E6s for about 8 years now, they very rarely fail on me. But replacement cables are a MUST!

u/klevenisms204 · 4 pointsr/CarAV

i would (and have used) one of these 'add a fuse'

dont just cram a wire behind a fuse

u/Scienlologist · 4 pointsr/gadgets

You can get license plate cameras for less than $15, and a head unit with Bluetooth, DVD player, and SD card reader for under $100. Granted, you get what you pay for, but I bought this exact combo nearly two years ago for a 92 Honda and it's served me well enough. Has two video outs so I added a 7" monitor. You can get an add-a-fuse kit to tie in to the reverse lights fuse, so you don't even need to mess with the wiring back near the reverse lights, so no permanent alterations to the car.

u/txzman · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Most grease like the one you have is NOT dielectric - ie it still conducts electricity. So if your PCB comes into contact with the grease while it is touching anything you will have a short. Here's what you need - https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=permatex+dielectric+grease&qid=1567174237&s=automotive&sr=1-1

You can also pick up cheap dielectric grease at any auto store for cheap.

u/D0esANyoneREadTHese · 4 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

If this doesn't work if you put it on your post-cat O2 sensor, then it's the sensor that's bad. If it does work, chop out the cat because the cunt's fucked and probably clogged enough to get some decent gains. If you have to pass inspection, replace it with a cheap glasspack from Autozone or something, one of the short ones that will fit inside the heat shield, then drive some gravel roads to cover the shiny-ness.

u/fingerthief · 4 pointsr/FocusST

They're NGK (6510) LTR7IX-11

Here they are on Amazon

u/wwwarrensbrain · 4 pointsr/arduino

If you end up with a lesser expensive connector, you can also squeeze a glob of dielectric grease into both sides before connecting. It goes a long way to keeping out moisture and keeping the contacts from developing corrosion or any kind of resistive film.
i.e., https://www.amazon.ca/Permatex-81150-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease-33-Ounce/dp/B000AL2RI2/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1543000581&sr=1-1&keywords=dielectric+grease

u/looseseels · 4 pointsr/guitarpedals

Any dielectric grease or white grease should do the trick. Plus you can find it in almost any home improvement or auto parts store.

u/Ophidios · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Sure thing! I used this case, this plate, this foam, switches are a combination of this and this, I used genuine Cherry stabilizers from here, lubed the switches with a mix from Mehkee as well, lubed my stabilizers with this, and used this keycap set.

That should just about cover it. :)

u/MWisBest · 4 pointsr/Cubers

If anybody is looking for a cheap and effective cube lubricant you can buy in local stores, dielectric grease is working fantastic for me. I always have some around for working on cars anyway. It's essentially pure silicone (PDMS), safe to use on plastic and rubber etc. A little bit goes a long way.

u/cycobiz · 3 pointsr/Trucks

> Splice them into your trailer wiring

That's what I did. I went up about 4" from the 7-pin plug, cut the necessary wires, used uninsulated butt connectors with a closed-barrel crimper and adhesive-lined heat shrink to splice in a 6-pin Deutsch DT connector pigtail, then built my own wiring harness that plugs into the Deutsch connector and ran it up to the headache rack.

Went with the 6-pin Deutsch connector since I only needed 5 of the 7 wires (LT, RT, Tail, Backup, and Ground) and 5-pin Deutsch connectors aren't available. Deutsch DT connectors are frequently used in the automotive aftermarket (probably more so than Delphi Weatherpack connectors). I know Rigid Industries uses them for their LED lights, and Smith Race Wire uses them for parts of their custom wiring harnesses.

Also, since you can only close-barrel crimp one end of the uninsulated butt connectors, I chose to close-barrel crimp the side that had only one wire (since closed-barrel crimping is more secure, and the one wire was looser in the connector) and used Channel Lock 909 Pliers to crimp the end with two wires.

Once you made your harness, make sure you slip it into some split wiring loom. Using a loom insertion tool makes quick work of that. Wrap the wiring loom with non-adhesive dry vinyl tape for a factory-finished look and to avoid a gooey, sticky mess in case you need to unwrap the wiring harness in the future.

Finally, a good wire stripper will save your hands a lot of fatigue compared to using a standard wire stripper that you have to always pull the wire through.

u/Goguma- · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I believe that board uses costar stabs, which are notorious for having really loud spacebar rattle (actually any kind of modifier key that is longer than 2u). You can try taking off the spacebar to confirm if it is.


If it is costar, then try taking the wire out and using dielectric grease to dampen the rattle. Just dip the ends of the wire into the grease.

u/JaffC · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

You can get rid of some of the pinging with some dielectric grease like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MVkeAbRDF5CCV

u/noonyxd · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Would recommend getting a GK61 from banggood, either with a plastic or aluminium case: https://www.banggood.com/Geek-Customized-GK61-Hot-Swappable-60-RGB-Keyboard-Customized-Kit-PCB-Mounting-Plate-Case-p-1389481.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN (plastic ver.)

You could probably use any MX stem keycaps, but if you don't have any laying at home, I'd personally buy these: https://www.banggood.com/61-Key-ANSI-Layout-OEM-Profile-PBT-Thick-Keycaps-for-GH60-60-Mechanical-Keyboard-p-1163283.html?rmmds=detail-top-buytogether-auto&cur_warehouse=UK

Then a switch of your choice; for your budget, I'd recommend these switches:

For tactile, MX Browns

For linear, MX Reds, MX Blacks

For clicky: MX Blues, Kailh Box Navy, Jade

Now, to get the best bang for your buck and a great typing experience from your keyboard, I'd recommend lubing your switches and clipping and lubing your stabs.

If you want to know how to lube your switches and mod your stabilizers, I'd recommend watching these videos from a guy named TaehaTypes, an experienced custom keyboard builder: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cD5Zj-ZgMLA https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qSgPKPoFo2k

If you would want to lube your switches and mod your stabs, you'd probably want to buy lube, dielectric grease and teflon grease.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL2RI2/ref=twister_B06ZXR55WD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

There are many lube options, but I recommend this one for a beginner like you: https://switchmod.net/products/tribosys-3204, or if you believe you are able to apply lube consistently and are using linear switches, you could buy this one: https://switchmod.net/products/krytox-gpl-205-grade-0

I think that's about all, if you have any more questions, feel free to ask me!

u/Teedacus · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I'm no expert, but I think some people use dielectric grease, like this

u/JadsPure2 · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 3 oz. Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-dtxzbXZT665N

This makes a really good super thick lube for stabs, you'll just wanna brush the wire, stem, the part the stem rubs against and the part the wire clips into. Clip the stabilizers while you're at it too and only use authentic cherry pcb mount stabs. Don't use dielectric grease for anything other than stabs, super thick

u/2nopes · 3 pointsr/consolerepair

I haven't had to degauss anything in quite a while but of the two demagnetizers I keep in the shop one looks like an electronic engraver or a drill but with a thick wide tip instead of a pointed one and the other one looks like link 2 but oval shaped. You want the first one, the other is normally for tvs and hard drives

https://www.amazon.com/Universal-DEMAGNETIZER-Cassette-Recorder-Track/dp/B003ZKLP4W/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=demagnetizer&qid=1573084575&sprefix=demagnet&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/Waldom-Degaussing-Coil-Color-Power/dp/B00011UYJU/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?keywords=degausser&qid=1573084679&sprefix=degau&sr=8-8

u/GreanEcsitSine · 3 pointsr/gaybros

Baking soda + water are great for clean dirty car battery terminals.

Disconnect the negative battery cable, then disconnect the positive cable.

Make a slightly watery mixture of baking soda and water (filtered or distilled is recommend), and carefully pour the mixture onto the battery terminals; Be careful not to let the water touch both terminals.

Using an old toothbrush or wire brush, scrub the corrosion off the terminals, then rinse with filtered or distilled water.

With your terminals nice and clean, repeat the process on your battery cable connectors (it might be easier to soak the connectors in a baking soda solution instead of trying to pour it).

apply either battery terminal protector, Dielectric Grease, or a thin layer of [protroleum jelly] (http://www.amazon.com/Vaseline-100%25-Petroleum-Jelly-Ounce/dp/B007E62538/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1374477009&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=petroleum+jelly) to the terminals of the battery.

Reconnect your positive terminal, then reconnect your negative terminal and you're all set!

u/Morpho99 · 3 pointsr/retrogaming

You need a degaussing coil as what you described is most certainly what happened.

https://www.amazon.com/Waldom-Degaussing-Coil-Color-Power/dp/B00011UYJU

u/RenegadeP3NGUIN · 3 pointsr/ebikes
u/Boofin_Boi · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Sorry for the potato quality, but this was my very first build and it was an enjoyable experience! Although lubing the switches was painful without a special tool and I had to use a small flat head screw driver, I would rate the experience as a 5/7 would build again.

The build:

Case: TOFU acrylic frosted 60% case

Plate: CNC'D ALUMINUM PLATE - blue color

PCB: 1UP RGB 60% (Hot Swap Edition)

Stabilizers: PCB stabilizers black color - 2U*4 6.25U*1 (lubed with Permatex 81150 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease)

Switches: *68 - gateron black (lubed with Krytox 205)

Keycaps: Black 108 Key Cherry Profile PBT Double Shot Side-lit

I am very pleased with how it turned out and already thinking about what to build next lol

u/nicholasdvu03 · 2 pointsr/MINI

Yeah! I’m running Manic stage 2 now so the sparks i got were the NGK1422

NGK (1422) ILKR8E6 Spark Plug - Pack of 4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BPUAYTG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_x9pHAbMAJ9VBD

u/werteen1 · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Thanks for answering my questions. I guess I need to order 20 more Zilent switches since that's the minimum order.

> Krytox 106

I'm only able to find a bottle on Amazon for $235 bucks. Can you link somewhere that has a smaller amount?

> dielectric grease

Is this the correct product?

u/Emiliak · 2 pointsr/CarAV

Don't screw with the airbags. I used an "add-a-fuse" on my ACC circuit.

u/OhShitItsJagerBear · 2 pointsr/Miata

I'm using this set here. https://www.amazon.com/NGK-HE76-Premium-Spark-Plug/dp/B000IY8ODS

I originally did a standard set from the auto parts store but was like nope not helping at all. I want to say its the spark plugs but I've gapped them correctly and changed them twice.

u/enomele · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

In the Nathan Kim stabilizer lube video he uses Permatex 22058 Dielectric grease for Metal on Plastic scenario. I read somewhere on Reddit someone said that he since switched to using Kyrtox 205 in the the whole stabilizer tho.

I found some Permatex 22058 on Amazon UK. Not sure if that's expensive, I think it's roughly how much I paid in US. I do put some Krytox or Tribosys on the plastic on plastic parts tho.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/

u/Veryfancydoily · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

This is good for stabs (not switches) and is usually at places like AutoZone if you want to get it locally and not order online. https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2

u/PooperOfMoons · 2 pointsr/Cartalk

you could rewire the 12v outlet so that it pulls power from a fuse in your fusebox that's only powered when the ignition is on. You can buy little adapters that let you piggy-back fuses. this

u/lesziii · 2 pointsr/keyboards

This stuff does work but makes dries out rather easily.
I'd push you down the way of this.
Dielectric Grease|Permatex 22058: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2


This is what you should be using as it's meant for electronic purposes. Not all multi-purpose greases are going to work well with switches and it really wouldn't be worth the risk.

u/Backstop · 2 pointsr/GolfGTI

These coils and these plugs are the ones I used after reading a bunch on the VWVortex and Mark6GTI messageboards. You may also want to get your intake cleaned (before you change the plugs) if you haven't already.

u/mccak · 2 pointsr/MINI

Changing spark plugs is very easy. All you need is 4 spark plugs, a torque wrench and a 12 point socket. It should take you 10 mins to change all 4. If you go to a shop they will probably charge you >$100.

Here is a tutorial.

u/mango-roller · 2 pointsr/Trucks
u/orphenshadow · 2 pointsr/crtgaming

You will probably want to get a degausing coil and move the speakers away.

https://smile.amazon.com/Waldom-Degaussing-Coil-Color-Power/dp/B00011UYJU?sa-no-redirect=1

THere are youtube videos on how ot use it, if the built in degause button is fixing it temporarily, then you may need to use one of those.

u/MazdaspeedingBF1 · 2 pointsr/cars

I used an "add-a-fuse" kit like this: https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-BP-HHH-ATM-Add-A-Fuse/dp/B000GKEXK2
and used it on the ignition fuse. Now whenever I start my car my radar detector turns on automatically. I imagine the same could be done with a dashcam or whatever. It was super easy. I've been wanting a dashcam though and I'd probably be able to put it onto the same circuit.

u/TheEv0 · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I lubed my stabs with this, super cheap and it pretty much made my stabs silent.

EDIT: Ripster tested it in his guide so it must be good

u/fizzymynizzy · 2 pointsr/hondafit

It is a non conductive grease that prevent rust, oxidation, dirt, and corrosion. "Permatex Dielectric Tune-Up Grease protects electrical connections and wiring from salt, dirt and corrosion. " this is the one I use https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=dielectric+grease&qid=1572880722&sprefix=diele&sr=8-3 Scotty Kilmer also uses it https://youtu.be/zhl3bLzgq9A . I use it it for the headlights, turn signal, side markers, fog lights, I also use it on the dome map lights, and I put it on 1 fuse blade, and I put some on the battery terminal. I do recommend getting disposable gloves. I wear XL winter gloves. But the disposable is smaller. Read the reviews first. People might might say get one size higher. So next time I will get XXL gloves.

u/already_reddit_ · 2 pointsr/infiniti

6 New NGK Iridium IX Spark Plugs LFR5AIX-11 # 4469 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00330AMYS?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

These are the ones I bought

u/RectangularRug · 2 pointsr/subaru

My battery and terminals just looked like that and cleaned it up last weekend.

Take the battery off and use hot water to clean most of the battery up.

Used hot water on my terminals as well.

After that i used a hot water/baking soda mix to neutralize the acid.

Bought a few things off amazon as well:

https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W147C-Terminal-Cleaning/dp/B004BTV82U/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1520547692&sr=8-3&keywords=battery+terminal+cleaner

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1520547711&sr=1-4&keywords=dielectric+grease

The dielectric grease should help it from getting moisture and corrosion on it again.

u/_circa84 · 2 pointsr/f150

I would put some dielectric grease on all the connectors, it's fast and cheap. It's possible you just have bad connection from grim on them or corrosion over time and the new bulbs touching the contacts on a bit different part. That bad connection could have also made them fail prematurely too.

Can usually find at automotive places for a few bucks. Not sure why so expensive on amazon.ca....

https://www.amazon.ca/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2

u/ripster55 · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Not that aerosol can. Get that little .33 oz tube with the handy dispensing nozzle.


If you want to splurge get the lifetimex10 tube.
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2

Previous must have r/MechanicalKeyboard toolkit items:

ITEM #3 - clean your dirty keys with denture tabs:
http://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/wtvy2/the_mechanical_keyboard_modder_kit_item_3_denture/

ITEM #2: Contact Cleaner for that inevitable liquid spill:
http://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/wra4r/the_mechanical_keyboard_modder_toolkit_part_two/

ITEM #1: A key puller for cleaning and putting some spiffy new keys on your new keyboard:
http://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/wr9uy/the_mechanical_keyboard_modder_toolkit_part_one/

u/NewbieTwo · 2 pointsr/Dashcam

As someone with soldering skills, I would just install a supercapacitor on the power lead to power the camera for the few seconds the car is cranking.

However, if you don't have those types of skills, you could hardwire your cam to an ignition hot supply instead of accessory hot supply like it is now. What you'll need is a fuse panel tap like this one to tap into a source of ignition hot at the fuse panel, and a USB hardwire kit like this one to supply the 5V needed by the cam. Then a long enough USB cable to reach from the fuse box to the cam.

Anyone with an hour or two to spare and a crimper can do this easily. If however you aren't comfortable doing this yourself, a local audio shop should be able to install this for you very easily.

u/ponchofreedo · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

sure...here you go. finish line comes in the syringe, which makes it easy to apply some to the stabilizer housing so you can brush it. taeha types does a good video using this grease combo.


finish line - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002L5UL92/
permatex - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL8VD2/

u/TheBeesSteeze · 2 pointsr/mazda3

Yup, just did mine no problem a couple weeks ago no check engine light.

I bought the vibrant header from redline360 online. The vibrant header comes with an o2 sensor relocation kit.

My corksport exhaust had a bung ready to go for the o2 sensor (just past the second cat. I actually put a vibrant ultra quiet resonator where that second cat used to be).

I bought this anti fouler off amazon. Then I followed these instructions.

End result: BAM no check engine light, it's a little bit louder than with just the corksport exhaust. But it is very worth it.

Edit: To clairfy all the anti fouler does is take the 2nd o2 sensor an inch further away from the exhaust. Thus it reads less pollutants than #1 o2 sensor and tricks the car into thinking the cat is working.

Also disclaimer, this is all for an '04 2.3L

u/FriedBizkit · 2 pointsr/CarAV

Sub amp? Hook the Pac up to the rear speaker wires and run your remote line to the fuse bloch with an add-a-fuse. Getting the power cable through the firewall can be a pain. You can run it under the car if you are very cautious with routing and protection. Be sure to read about gains and crossovers.

u/GobHoblin87 · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

Update: After much research and unfruitful trips to Lowes and Walmart, I finally found the right grease. Pure silicone grease but under the name dielectric grease, and at a great price ($5 for 3oz.)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AL8VD2/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/Lobster70 · 2 pointsr/Miata

I'm not sure where you landed with this but it really sounds like wires and plugs to me. Low RPM stumble, loss of power, and if you keep the RPMs way up it's a little better? That's likely wires and plugs.

Get four of these plugs and a set of these wires and swap them in. Then report back here.

u/S-Aint · 2 pointsr/MINI

Here's the tool you'll need and here's the plugs I used for my 2008 R56. It's super easy to do! Hopefully that will fix your issue.

u/IngsocDoublethink · 2 pointsr/cars

Add-A-Fuse. Install it in your fuse box in place of a switched ≤30amp fuse on a 12v line(radio, cigarette lighter, etc.), and you can run that fuse, as well as a ≤10amp fuse off of it. Wire the positive from the dashcam to the add-a-fuse, and ground it to the frame (either a nearby bolt on bare metal, or the bolt that the fuse box is grounded to).

u/poochzag · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I made the same mistake as you in the past. The oil works ok for the plastic-plastic contacts of the stabilizers though. But for lubing the bar, a thicker dialetric grease is ideal

The superlube dialetric grease you linked is probably fine. This is the exact one I use though, as recommended by Nathan Kim https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AL8VD2

u/Jugrnot · 2 pointsr/Miata

Sure thing. Got a 10 pack of them from Amazon, then bought a 20 pack a few weeks later... I've put them in everything now!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00755JMYS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/Demilitarizer · 2 pointsr/ChevyTrucks

There are ways to tie into the fuse box inside the cab. Depending on the options you have, you may or may not have an open circuit there.

Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000GKEXK2

u/AspektUSA · 2 pointsr/GolfGTI

Nothing wrong quality wise with Denso, but the NGK laser platinums are OEM. I would not bother with anything else. Aren't plugs 60k mi for 2.0s?

The gap is .032 , about $10 on amazon for the correct ones.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007WR66QQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1452208552&sr=8-1&pi=SL75_QL70&keywords=NGK+spark+plugs+gti#

Replace coils with the Audi r8 ones if you're having issues, other wise just leave it.

u/SgtMac02 · 2 pointsr/CarAV

I'm going to be doing some poking around tonight and see what I can come up with as my final solution. You'll probably see some more comments from me in your inbox later. :)

Also, is there any reason not to use these types of connectors when I splice that speaker wire in? Or do you have a better recommendation?

And I did find the fuse on the fusebox which appears to already be wired for "Subwoofer" from the factory. It's a 20 and I tested it last night and it is hot when the key is on, and not when the key is off. I was seriosuly considering just getting something like this and wiring the remote line in there. It seems like that would be the easiest option. I'm planning on probably mounting this under the passenger seat and running the power and remote lines up that passenger side...so I'll be right there at the fusebox anyways.

Sorry to ask so many questions, I just really don't want to fuck this up, and I want it done right. I'm sure I could find a way to make it work if I fucked with it enough, but I'd rather acknowledge my ignorance and seek help first BEFORE I'm in trouble instead of after. I'm leaving this all in the public comments (instead of PMs) so I can at least give you some karma...and maybe someone else with similar questions might be able to learn from my ignorance.

u/Jolly_Green_Giant · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

[Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 3 oz. Tube] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL8VD2/)

u/Rhithm · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Just use https://www.amazon.fr/Permatex-81150-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL2RI2/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1518366744&sr=8-8&keywords=permatex

I use permatex on my stabs, works like a charm

Extreme Fluoro used to be recommended, but people found out that it's shit and dries after a few weeks

u/GotMyOrangeCrush · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

Kinda depends what you want to plug into the 12v outlet and what’s already on the circuit you’re tapping into.

If you’re just plugging in a cell phone charger or something then 5amp is fine.

If you don’t have anything plugged into the existing lighter socket plug, that’s the best one to use.

Ideally you should use a fused ‘add a fuse’ device that lets you keep the same fuse for the existing circuit and add a separate fused circuit off the vehicle accessory circuit.


https://www.amazon.com/BUSS-HHH-Amp-Add-Fuse/dp/B000GKEXK2

u/MrMcSwifty · 1 pointr/Chevy

Is it though? More reliable and convenient for sure. But similar price? Most of the AFM delete kits I find are in the 5-600 dollar range, and that's not including install if you're not mechanically inclined enough to do it yourself (I'm not).

I bought one of these from Range Tech on sale at the time for $150 and it was the best thing I've ever done for my 06 Monte. Burns literally zero oil now, whereas before my consumption before was similar to OPs. No complaints at all besides when I forget to disable it before going in for an inspection sticker here in MA and failing OBD readiness.

Whatever route you go... agreed 100% that killing DOD/AFM is crucial for these cars.

One last question if you don't mind, how did do you disable traction control completely? You're right that the button doesn't do much. Even with it off the car still cuts engine power when it detects too much wheel spin. Most annoying thing ever.

u/riskymilk · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 3 oz. Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ld8kDbQ54DWYW

u/gingiesmalls · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

If your downstream o2 sensor is matching the data your upstream sensor is reading, the computer thinks that the catalyst is not doing its job. You need to remove the downstream sensor from the raw exhaust stream. You can do this by purchasing a set of Spark plug non foulers. You then drill one out so your o2 sensor will fit inside. Then you screw the second non fouler onto the end of the first one, and reinstall into the exhaust pipe. Should look similar to this. Pull your negative battery cable before starting, and the CEL should not come back.

u/calibloodzz · 1 pointr/boston

I did a semi-hardwire install on my 2008 Civic. It is very simple.
 

Do you have any technical, hands-on skills?
 

Buy 1 of each. You can buy in AutoZone too.
 

https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-BP-HHH-ATM-Add-A-Fuse/dp/B000GKEXK2
 

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell%C2%AE-Charger-Cigarette-Lighter-Female/dp/B00EZJBELQ/
 

Find a switched source (or constant if you have a camera that triggers when you are parked) using your multimeter, tap into it and route the wires. Should take 1-3 hours depending on your skills. DO NOT use the ScotchLok Taps.

u/exmarks · 1 pointr/BuyItForLife

You pull radio out and plug the unit inline with antenna and get power from the fuse block. https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-BP-HHH-ATM-Add-A-Fuse/dp/B000GKEXK2. It's not too hard.

u/TheUnknownD · 1 pointr/ValveIndex

https://www.amazon.com/Piece-Wire-Loom-Cable-Insertion/dp/B00OKXP0C6/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1507173036&sr=8-1&keywords=wire+loom+tool&linkCode=sl1&tag=caraud03-20&linkId=4cdbaa3912d6599660130d35860cfe93


Get this unless you don't mind doing this for like 30 minutes with a hurt thumb for awhile.

I don't know what you get because there are a few options, IMO I like to take my time manually installing the split loom, I don't need to buy that.

u/thpp9 · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

Would something like this work?

Also what about dielectric silicone grease?

u/framerotblues · 1 pointr/electronics

Chances are that it does and you just don't know how to access it.

Use a voltmeter and go down the line of fuses until you find one that meets the "ignition on" criteria. Then, add this.

u/bbtpd · 1 pointr/GolfGTI

I have an aftermarket radio so I have a remote coming off of that, but, I did have to run a switched power to the radio and used an Add a Fuse coming off of something that turns on with the car. This is an actual crappy picture of it.

u/reverendnathan · 1 pointr/self

I still have a deguassing coil not at all sure what to do with it.

u/BookishCipher · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease Tube was a suggestion I got from a YouTuber and it works really well so far. A bit expensive but you don't use a lot so lasts forever.

Canada: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000AL8VD2/?coliid=I1N71VWMGGSOXK&colid=J58MB1DVXYQQ&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

US: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AL8VD2?pf_rd_p=2d1ab404-3b11-4c97-b3db-48081e145e35&pf_rd_r=EVNQKENT60XP5CXEPJJ7

​

Also for plastic on plastic lube (the stems of the stabilizers, do not use inside of switches) this: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B002L5UL92/?coliid=I3VPHHQD2B8350&colid=J58MB1DVXYQQ&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

u/MustacheRabbit · 1 pointr/Trackballs

I modified mine by taking out the magnet the first day I got it (and yes it does void the warranty).

I ordered this lube to modify it as well as some other peripherals, but it isn't that expensive (considering the cost of the trackball).

I definitely would recommend the modification and lubrication of the device, it made the trackball feel like it costs, rather than feel like a $50 toy.

Edit: I didn't just use the dri film above as lubricant. I also used some permatex grease I had lying around to make it seem like a heavier scroll wheel, rather than a light plastic one.

u/goodgodamighty · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

I wish people knew what that was for.
Noalox is for aluminum. That is what the "al" stands for. No - aluminum - oxidation.
It will do very little for your copper mod.
Please use some dielectric grease. It is nonconductive and will provide extremely great protection and thread things nicely.
Any auto parts store will have it, or you can just get a small tube online, like so:
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81150-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL2RI2/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1409019211&sr=1-2&keywords=dielectric+grease

u/ratmachinest · 1 pointr/gadgets

****Do any of this at your own risk or hire a professional to do it for you.***

Here are the parts I ordered to put mine together. I'm posting this bc of PMs.

Mobius or [Cheaper Mobius but longer wait from China] (http://www.banggood.com/Mobius-Action-Camera-1080P-HD-Mini-Sports-Camera-Wide-Angle-Edition-p-917817.html) I wanted the Wide Angle Lens for a better shot

Capacitor You don't want the battery sitting in the sun. A capacitor can handle it. So you replace the battery completely with this capacitor

Windshield Mount My mobius came with a mounting bracket that fits on this mount. The mount itself is very small, but the 3M sticker is very strong.

Hardwire Kit When hard wiring this in to the car via fuse box, this knocks the voltage down from 12v to 5v, which is what the camera needs. I used some wire strippers to expose about 5" of the red and black cables. Then stripped about an inch off each cable to expose the actual wire. The red wire goes in to the add-a-circuit mentioned below, then you crimp it closed with pliers (wasn't super easy, I must be weak). You partially unscrew a metal bolt that is attached to the metal car frame as a ground ( I used the one on top of my fuse box).

USB to Mini-USB This connects from the hardwire kit to the camera or 90 degree elbow mentioned next, for a better angle. If you are setting up the auto record when external power is on, which is what you want to do for a dash cam, you need to cut a piece of electrical tape width-wise and cover the two middle pins inside the USB cable. This is because the two middle pins (2 and 3) are data pins. Leaving those exposed makes the camera think its connected to a computer and will only do data transferring. By covering them, it only get power from pins 1 and 4 and doesn't think it's connected to a computer and will actually record.

Right Angle Mini-USB to Mini-USB Adapted This just helped keep the USB cable from sticking out too much (better angle)

Add-a-circuit This is the ATO (bigger fuse), but I ended up using the ATM (Mini) because my car has both and the fuse I wanted to use ended up being a Mini. It'd be best to look through your fuse diagram and find something non-vital (meaning don't tap in to a fuse that controls ABS or airbags, etc) and switchable (meaning it only comes on when the car turns on. You don't want the camera running 24/7), figure out what type of fuse it is, and buy that size. I ended up getting my new add-a-circuit (Littlefuse) from Oreilly auto parts for $6.99 and it came with 3, 4, 7.5, and 10A fuses. Also take note of the amperage (Never use a higher amp fuse than your add-a-circuit supports because the wire gauge may not support it and melt/burn. When adding the circuit, I removed the original fuse from the fuse box, a 10A fuse and put it the first slot(my add-a-circuit supports up to 10A) and for the 2nd slot, I used a 3A fuse because the camera and radar don't draw much. You don't want to use a higher amp fuse than necessary. Also, in my car 2011 JettaSportwagen, the add-a-circuit points down or it doesn't work. Make sure it's plugged in the correct direction or it won't do anything

32GB MicroSD Card Works fine, just make sure to format it through the camera.

Unofficial but awesome Mobius Configuration Tool Use the tooltips(hover over each option) to figure out what each things does. I set mine to autorecord when external power or the button are pushed.


You can find a lot of info here: dashcamtalk.com


To summarize the connections are:

Choose a fuse from your car's fuse diagram (non-essential and switchable), pull it, place it in the correct slot of the add-a-circuit (don't go to higher amps than is supported), plug in a fuse from the add-a-circuit kit in to the other slot to protect your camera (I used a 3A), strip the hardwire kit's cables mentioned above, put the red cable (+) from the hard wire kit in the the red end of the add-a-circuit and crimp it closed, attach the black cable (-) to a screw attached to the metal car frame, tape the two middle pins (2 and 3) in the USB cable with electrical tape, plug the USB in to the female USB on the hardwire kit, run the USB cable from the fuse box around the edges of your cars trim, up by the rearview mirror, attach the right-angle mini-usb adapter, choose where you want to mount the camera (make sure to check using the USB plugged in and camera mounted to the mount, in case it bumps the rearview mirror) (I held it on the windshield about where I thought I wanted it (to behind and to the right of the rearview mirror and took some test footage, watched it on a computer, decided it looked ok, pulled the sticker cover and attached it), clean your windshield with glass cleaner, attach the mount.

u/baby_feet · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/

Try local at auto parts stores. The other favorite is Super Lube 21030 but people on discord have been grumbling about it drying out, saying use 92003 or Krytox 205. I personally don't have much experience with lubing stabilizers.

u/davey94 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

would this lube be fine for lubing cherry stabs? or finish line?

u/09RaiderSFCRet · 1 pointr/Fixxit

For connectors that are constantly exposed to moisture, this product can help. Especially headlight connectors, dissipates heat real well.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=cm_sw_r_em_api_c_knoYAbDWZFBE3

u/spike_africa · 1 pointr/Cartalk

Ok in your case go buy this.
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2

Put a dab of it in each spark plug wire side. Or where the coil boot goes onto the spark plug if you have coil on plug instead of a coil and spark plug wires.

While each plug is exposed, pull it and check the spark plug gap. I don't know your vehicle but you can guickly Google what the gap should be. Adjust to that if it's way larger. If it's smaller like ". 035 like how most are sent from the factory. Don't worry and reinstall them.

This is all step one before you move on to vacuum leaks.

u/Barley_Oat · 1 pointr/nissanfrontier

These are what I’ve used last time and will use next time. Can’t argue with the price for a direct replacement OEM part

u/danbert88 · 1 pointr/WRX

I have gone through a few cams in my 2013 and have helped install in a friend's 2015, installation is basically the same. We tucked the power cable in the gap between the windshield and the headliner and ran it toward the driver side door. Pop off the driver side A-pillar cover and run the cable behind the airbag and down toward the dash. At this point you are only about a foot away from your fuse box. Get a Fuse Tap and plug it into your "Accessory" fuse slot (should be a map on the fuse panel door). Splice the positive wire from your camera into the Fuse Tap and and the negative to the frame as ground. The camera will start up any time your key is in the "Accessory" or "ON" positions.

u/Convex11 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

(English isn't my first language so i'm sorry if there are some errors)
I just bough a poker 3 and the spacebar is squeaky as hell, so I was about to buy this, but I've read that it will crumble in a month or so and my only other option is this one, but I don't know if it can be used on stabilizers,so which one should i buy?

u/Liger_Zero · 1 pointr/Cartalk

P0420 is for emissions failure and usually a catalytic converter problem. The first thing I would try is to replace the rear O2 sensor. These can be had for about $50 on Amazon or RockAuto. Reset the ECU by removing the negative lead on the battery and holding the brake pedal down for 30 seconds. Reattach the negative lead and drive it for a few days to see if it comes back. If it doesnt, your golden. If it does it could be the Cat. If you are strapped for cash and cant really afford a new cat at the moment, there is a trick you can do by using two sparkplug non-foulers to pull the O2 sensor out of direct airflow in the exhaust.

Here is a LINK to the non-foulers i used when my Subaru gave me this code. There is a review on the link that shows what someone did to make this work.

If all else fails you will most likely need a new Cat.

u/The-fish · 1 pointr/LifeProTips

Amazon

I use dielectric grease it was recommended in my owners manual of my car. I wipe it on the rubber molding that is either on the door or the door frame. Apply a fine coat with a rag, removing any excess.

u/tally_in_da_houise · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I used Permatex's Dielectric Grease (Amazon link). That's way more than I'll need (smaller amount here).

Here's /u/ripster55 's [guide on Keyboard Lubes] (http://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/1dzvs9/keyboard_lube_science/) if you have any questions. I used this when I first lubed mine.

u/BadMekanic · 1 pointr/Chevycavalier

The one you linked is to keep those chimes and radio on until the door is opened.

If you don't care about door chimes and warning chime for lights and key in the ignition then just buy the cheap dummy plug like this one:

The red wire goes to a key-on source in the fuse panel as with gm class 2 data there isn't one at the radio. Most people use the cruise control or the windshield wiper fuse. If you do that, do it right with something like this.

If this is an ls sport, it has amplified rear speakers which I THINK requires a different plug.

u/clothing_throwaway · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Questions about liner material and lube...

For liner material, what acoustic differences am I going to find between: neoprene, sorborthane, and rather generic looking "foam" rolls? They're all pretty much the same thickness, about 2-3 mm.

For lube, I'm looking at: Permatex dielectric grease, krytox 205 grade 2, trybosis 3204 and trybosis 3203. What would be good for stabs, what would be good for linears, and what would be good for tactiles? And if possible, is there anything that's a good "all-arounder"? Aka, something that could easily work for both stabs and switches.

u/Tec_ · 1 pointr/CarAV

It's a signal sensing turn on, it's like a switch that's activated by sound. It gets a constant 12 volt and ground and when it sees a signal for the radio it turns on its output. When it doesn't see a signal it turns off its output. It's a little more complicated than that, but that's the simple version.

As for cigarette outlets, not all are switched. OP would have to test theirs.

If it was the proper way to tap into it would be the military splice at the plug. If a tap at the fuse block is desired the way to do it is with an add-a-fuse as simply mashing the wire into the fuse block with the fuse on top of it bends the terminal holding the fuse open further than it should making a intermittent connection more likely. The fuse and the wire may even fall out all together over time.

u/Anonymous6915 · 1 pointr/ChevyTrucks

This is the one I got Range Technology Active Fuel Management Disable Device (Blue) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BR1R8N8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_o2g2BbD36JGJY

u/hbard · 1 pointr/crtgaming

This is just extra info as I don't know where the arcing is coming from: I've read in an old forum post that if the anode cap isn't secured for whatever reason there can be arcing. When I reattached the last cap I used a bead of this grease underneath for a good seal:

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1538606002&sr=8-1&keywords=dielectric+tune-up+grease&dpID=51w6o8oSdeL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

u/UMDSmith · 1 pointr/FordFocus

There has been a lot of good advice. One I can offer is, disconnect the battery, open the fuse panel, and spray QD electronic cleaner in there. https://www.amazon.com/CRC-5103-Quick-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000BXOGNI

If the carpet got soaked and the foot wells are wet, you may want to think about pulling the seats and the carpet out and letting it dry, as anyplace that water pools may lead to rust at worst, or a moldy smell eventually.

Any exposed electrical connection can be given a quick covering of di-electric grease after they are cleaned: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1497446596&sr=1-1&keywords=di-electric+grease

Any metal on metal contact areas that got wet, such as hinges, seat sliders, etc hit with some WD-40 to displace water and prevent rust.

Pull the horn fuse for now to stop it from sounding all the time. The headliner removal is a bitch, since you need to remove all the pillar trim, which may mean removing seat belt shoulder bolts, which normally requires a big torx socket bit. If it is a hot dry day, unplug the battery and leave your car fully open (all doors, hatch) all day. It will really help drying it out.

u/electricblock · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

https://www.amazon.de/dp/B000AL2RI2/

The small rubber of dielectric grease, €6 and change

u/tha_snazzle · 1 pointr/AmIFreeToGo

I haven't done it yet, but I am planning to hardwire a Mobius into my car. Apparently it's relatively simple, just run the power under your headliner and door frame panel, and use add-a-fuse to connect it to a fuse that only gets power when the ignition is on. That way you can set it and forget it, so to speak, and it is always recording while the car is running.

u/rockwe31 · 1 pointr/GrandCherokee
u/Mortal_Scum · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

This stuff. Apply a thin coating to all areas of friction. Enjoy in good health.

u/jackrats · 1 pointr/whatisthisthing

Yes, it abolutely is a CRT degausser. They are indeed very often coil shaped. Like this one which you can still buy:

https://www.amazon.com/Waldom-Degaussing-Coil-Color-Power/dp/B00011UYJU

Bulk tape erasers are generally not coil shaped. As you can see:

https://www.google.com/search?q=bulk+tape+eraser

u/greatcaffeine · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I've seen ripster link to this lube in the past. Might want to check that out.

u/SPARTANsui · 1 pointr/camaro

If you're not a fan of active fuel management, which is only present on the auto SS, a lot of guys run this it disables cylinder deactivation.

u/nekocaps · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I got a tube of this from Amazon (it's a ton). Not sure if it's the best out there but its dielectric and the price is right.
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2

u/hartk1213 · 1 pointr/FordTrucks

After my f150 mishap I bought a 2007 NBS Silverado with the 5.3 and to counteract the oil consumption I bought the Range AFM disabler and its helped a lot

u/crazytimmy1 · 1 pointr/FocusST

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-42009-Spark-Plug-Non-Fouler/dp/B000CO91FY

I'm running this with my catless downpipe. I have a tune but have them leaving the o2 sensors on so i can pass emissions. I have no issues with check engine lights or anything and have been running it like this for about a year now. For the visual inspections i think you should be good since the location of the cat is high up and behind a cross bar it is not an easy one to see from under the vehicle.

One thing to be aware of is the smell, it will smell like exhaust in the cabin every once and awhile. Nothing that is dangerous just something to be aware of.

u/Peripheral_Installer · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

For stabs (stab housing/stem) your best bet is krytox 205, you can get a half oz tube for 20 bucks on amazon.. That is going to yield better results, trust me..

205 is also amazing on linears.. I wouldnt use anything less or any other brand, especially a 'custom mix' that has oil mixed in...oil doesnt last as long.. you want grease because it doesnt have the fluidity of oil, lasts much longer..

https://www.amazon.com/Chemours-Krytox-Grease-Pure-PFPE/dp/B00MWLDALQ/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=krytox+205&qid=1555994639&s=gateway&sr=8-3

For tactiles/clicky 202-204 depending on spring weight

https://www.amazon.com/Krytox-Grease-Pure-PFPE-PTFE/dp/B00MWLDCKA/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=krytox+204&qid=1555994880&s=gateway&sr=8-3

For the stab bar inserts

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-6PK-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=permatex&qid=1555994695&s=gateway&sr=8-9&th=1

u/PJMD · 1 pointr/Trucks

https://www.amazon.com/Range-Technology-Active-Management-Disable/dp/B00BR1R8N8

Have a 2007 silverado z71 that I purchased at 67k miles. First thing I noticed was the truck was burning oil. Bought the range tech AFM disabler and it was the best purchase I have made on this truck. Completely fixed the burning oil problem and the shifting and throttle response is much better.

u/maltose66 · 1 pointr/funny
u/jklemony · 1 pointr/Cartalk

I ended up ordering this. It's probably one of those "cheap Chinese made coils" you warned about but I didn't have much luck finding a bunch of options since it's an older car.

Hopefully it will work good enough! Also bought these wires for good measure.

u/5k3k73k · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I'd get a sheet of glass and adhere it to the aluminum bed with a thermal pad.

u/Sethsual · 1 pointr/wichita

Spy Tec G1WH. Capable of wide angle, and 1080p/30fps recording. The way it works is that it records in 5 minute blocks - once it runs out of room in the memory card, it overwrites the oldest block. The caveat is that it doesn't play well with Class 10 micro sd cards, so I use a 32GB Class 6. I believe I have an 8-10 hour window of current 1080p footage, which should be more than sufficient.

I also purchased a dashcam hard-wire kit, in conjunction with an add-a-fuse kit. It might sound daunting to a layman, but it was actually incredibly simple to wire up. With it, the dashcam turns on when I turn the car on (I wired it in to the car stereo), and turns off when I turn the car off. This was necessary for me because one alternative, using a power adapter plugged into the cigarette lighter, wouldn't work due to my cigarette lighter always being powered, even when the truck is turned off. Also, my install is clean as hell - the only things visible are the cam itself, and about four inches of power wire running up to the headliner.

Here are the specific items I purchased, on Amazon:

Dashcam, $53 Prime
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KZ0J452

Hardwire kit, $15 shipped
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S73FE8A

Add-A-Fuse, $11 Prime
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GKEXK2

Rearview mirror mount, $9 Prime
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JWGC29U

Class 6 32GB MicroSDHC + adapter if you don't already have one, $16 Prime
www.amazon.com/dp/B00IVPU7DQ

Running total for everything above, to your door, about $105. Install takes about ten-fifteen minutes by yourself. You can probably get a local shop to do it if you prefer, for a cost. Hell, I'd even lend a hand if you wanted, so long as you promise you aren't a total fucking weirdo.

Edit to answer your second question: Yeah, I like it. For $100, it's probably the best quality you'll find. With it installed, I often forget it's even there; it's tucked away behind my mirror. The peace of mind that it adds, should I ever need it myself, is great. Also, catching stuff like what's in the video is a huge bonus!

u/Rawrr_dinosaurs · 1 pointr/subaru

When I got my old outback I went out and played in the mud and whenever I went through a big puddle the engine would miss a beat every once and a while for a minute or two. So I went through the entire engine and put dielectric grease in all the electrical plugs and that solved my problem. Maybe something to try

u/MediocreBadGuy23 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Yeah I've got some stab lube I've been using that seems alright. It's a small grey tube I got from Amazon. Might be called permatex?

Edit: I think it's this stuff

u/seant117 · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

Here is the OEM upstream sensor you need: http://www.amazon.com/Denso-234-4099-Oxygen-Sensor/dp/B000C5WCN6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1380741249&sr=8-1&keywords=2344099

You don't necessarily have to buy it off Amazon but they have the best price for it. Denso is Hondas OEM manufacturer. Make sure it is the Denso 234-4099 model number. It is what it came with. Also, for spark plugs and wires, use NGK. NGK ZFR5F-11. You should be able to go to an auto parts store and get those. It shouldn't cost more than $3 a piece and you need 4. Here are the spark plug wires: http://www.amazon.com/NGK-HE76-Premium-Spark-Plug/dp/B000IY8ODS/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1380741594&sr=1-1-fkmr1&ymm=1998%3Ahonda%3Acivic&keywords=1998+honda+civic+dx+spark+plug+wires

As for tools, you'll need a 7/8" offset o2 sensor socket and a breaker bar because it will be on tight! For the spark plugs, you'll need a 5/8 spark plug socket with a rubber piece or a magnet inside to grip the spark plug. the wires won't require tools but you'll need a bit of dielectric grease to prevent the elements from getting to the connections.

I recommend you use this spark plug socket. It's treated me really well and is very durable: http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-80546-8-Inch-6-Inch-Swivel/dp/B0014ZVSVK/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1380741751&sr=1-1&keywords=spark+plug+tool Also, it won't hurt if you go and buy a 3/8" 6" extension for your 3/8" ratchet.

u/vaultwanderer94 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Sorry this comment is so long haha. I could go on for hours about these stupid switches.

I mean, I have some SKBM White Alps(these are slit-less, like your damped whites) that still feel wonderful(a far cry from SKCM Whites, but still), and were very clean. I'd imagine a cleaning and a lube will help them greatly. End of life SKCM is still better than any current Matias or the most recent SKBM Alps that Matias are based off of.

If you used Tribosys 3204 on them, that could've contributed to the worse feeling as well. I personally haven't lubed any of my Alps switches besides a bit of dielectric grease to eliminate spring ping, and that's a 100% worthwhile thing to do to every switch ever imo. Alps switches much prefer dry lubes, and wet lubes like Tribosys or any other MX suitable lube makes them feel goofy.

Denture tabs can be found at any store, and they're made for dentures, but their oxidization works wonders on a whole lot of different things, just no metal. Think of them as OxiClean(the laundry kind) bit for plastics.

Basically, just take only the top housing and slider(don't forget to take out the dampening rubber tabs) and drop them in the denture tab solution, blowing the dust out first with canned air or a DataVac. Let them sit in there for a while, maybe not 12 hours for only a couple testers, but still a decent amount of time. Once they're done, just squeeze a tiny(barely coat the spring) bit of dielectric grease on each end of the spring and put em back together. If you're going to dry lube them, I wouldn't be able to give advice, as I haven't dry lubed, but I'm sure you can find a tutorial somewhere. They should be silky smooth after that.

As far as what you'll like in the Alps spectrum, it is very difficult to base it off of MX switches, as none have really done a good job at recreating Alps' feels. If you like tactility, I think Alps are the way to go, but for linears, MX are your better option. The designs of each switch are inherently tactile or linear respectively, so neither is a flat out better switch. Alps tactility(though I've heard the oranges feel a whole lot different, and I want some so bad!) is what you'll get from the white damped switches, as long as you can get them smooth, it's rounded and... elegant?(goofy word to use, but it makes sense) If you find buckling springs too loud, you won't enjoy Alps clicky switches. They're loud, but it's such a good sound. Honestly, if your favorite switch is Topre, you may like the cream and white damped more than most, as long as your examples are good. These are the closest to rubber dome I've personally felt in a switch, but they a still are noticeably mechanical.

u/Ace_Entity · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

yeah I can't imagine the dielectric grease I used for my stabs flowing out of them, it's very thick. Here's the one I use.

u/viverator · 1 pointr/GrandCherokee

Agreed.

OP:
The original terminals on the HO are cheap shit. I had to literally hammer mine on and use dialectic grease to get a good connection.

Tighten them as best you can, then use a socket of suitable size the get equal pressure when lightly tapping down until they have no wiggle left. Don't smash them on as you may break something. And use dialectic grease.

$6.99 on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=dialectic+grease&qid=1554338141&s=gateway&sr=8-2

u/southafricanamerican · 1 pointr/scion

I ordered these for my 08 xB - replaced the overhead lights and the license plate lights - they worked really well for me.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00755JMYS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/cfiggis · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

For the stems, I use Krytox 1514. You can get a 3ml vial at mehkee for not much. (That's enough to lube all the switches on a full size board, but it's the smallest amount you'll find.)

For the wires (where the metal wires meet the plastic stabilizer) I use delectric grease that I got from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AL8VD2/

As for how to do it, there are videos on youtube that show you, but basically you use the thinner Krytox on the black plastic where the stem rubs against the housing. (Wherever there's friction). The thicker grease goes where the metal meets the plastic and keeps it from rattling around. Make sure you use dielectric grease because it's non-conductive. You don't want to short out anything on your PCB.

u/sd59fifty · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I actually didn't have that problem with mine :/ My only problem was the stabs wobbling like crazy, but i'r pretty sure some nice lube will fix that. I got this from amazon. Probably wayyy too much for my needs but at least i know i will never run out haha

u/1bitwonder · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I have some impressions after using the keyboard for a day:

  • The tackiness of the dycem totally affects the travel and the sound (but the sound is pretty quiet relative to the thock). Since it's sticky it takes a tiny bit of extra force to press each key.
  • I'm still not sure if I like the extra force required on each key. It's not the original topre force curve any more, if you want to be a purist about it. It honestly feels fine for now. It kinda just feels like the tops of the sliders are sticky. It's not the best but I think I could get used to it. I'm too lazy to try some other material...
  • There's a bit of a "warm-up time" with the keyboard in the morning because the Dycem had hours to get stuck to the housing and sliders.
  • There is very little wobble in the keys now, probably because the dycem is a non-slip material.
  • I used cheap dielectric grease to lube my stabilizers. I just put a little bit on a toothpick and put that toothpick in where the metal and the plastic met. It makes an enormous difference in the sound of the board. I'll probably get some thinner lube for the rest of the keyboard at some time in the future.
  • If anybody is going to try to silence their Topre keyboard with their own rings (not hyperspheres), one of the most important things to look for is consistency in thickness of the material. A lot of cheaper foam providers have pretty poor tolerances.
  • I missed OEM/cherry profile so much. I've been typing on DSA/SA keycaps for the past couple of years, and this profile is so much easier for me to type on.
u/Leefa · 1 pointr/GolfGTI

More than 50k miles on current ones. I'm guessing they're gunked up. I bought [these] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007WR66QQ/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1as) replacement.

u/bombala · 1 pointr/Miata

This turned out more expensive than I expected because of the tools. Can somebody confirm that I'm buying the right stuff for the job? Am I forgetting anything?
Doesn't have to be Amazon, it's just convenient. 1994 Miata.

u/jonathansty · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Thanks for taking your time and writing down some quick tips! I didn't really realize about the sidebar. I'll have a browse through it again!

I think these tips will be super helpful. For my keyboard stabilizers would [this] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000AL2RI2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A3W0W1W3AIWFOT&psc=1) lube do? The one you linked wasn't available in the UK.

I've not done lots of soldering before so I'll definitely practice before actually trying it on for the keyboard. I've got some hardware for another project I was working on that needs some soldering done but haven't got the time yet to start that.

u/masterf99 · 1 pointr/CarAV

Well this guy looks like a winner. As far as these go, I personally solder all wire to wire connections. People call me old school and hard headed for doing it, but a soldered connection has yet to let me down in over 10 years. That said I know plenty of people who use those quick connectors and have no trouble at all, I'm sure they will do the job just fine for you. Are you planning on penetrating your firewall on the passenger side? YOu may find that your HVAC Blower motor can complicate that quite a bit.

u/artist508 · 0 pointsr/airsoft

Diaelectric paste can help a little. Heatsink compound doesn't like to move around.

u/DonnieJTrump · -1 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Check the coolant temperature sensor. This Youtube video will lead you in the right direction in swapping it out, and they are fairly cheap. Basically theres 3 wires coming from it - A ground, a wire that controls the gauge, and a wire that tell the ECU when to turn on the fan.

This is what I would do to avoid doing the same job twice: Buy the sensor. If you don't need it you can always return it. When you get to the point of removing the old sensor, check the connector for corrosion. At this point if the connector looks corroded, it's probably the plug and that would either need replaced, see here. I would try to clean it real good with a good electronic cleaner with an old toothbrush, and add some Dielectric grease to it to keep it from corroding. Plug it back in and see if that helps. If you're having the same issues after that, then I would replace the sensor and go from there. If that doesnt do it, then its something with the wired connection between the sensor and the ECU, or the ECU itself.

u/danekan · -3 pointsr/techsupport
u/Gucharmula · -5 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Dielectric Grease for $7 is probably your best bet.