Best automotive replacement gaskets according to redditors

Tacoma Water Pump Gasket

Fel-Pro 3157 Gasket Material https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CNISM2/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_cxRKwbQ12WBJS

http://www.amazon.com/Bars-HG-1-Gasket-Cooling-Sealant/dp/B003RGIWO0 I put this stuff in a F150 Coyote motor with cracked block (damaged in a front end collision) & it held for a couple thousand miles until I could find a junkyard motor. Granted I didn't drive it far away from home because I figured it would fail at any given moment.

Your link also show me a cummins water pump gasket that is even better

Edit: nevermind, Just look at that head gasket!

Here's a quick chart to oil information. Scroll down to TJ


Lube Locker I know the $40 sucks, but once you do the work, you'll be super thankful you invested.

80w90 is the weight of oil for your differentials. Don't get synthetic, get the conventional. Dana/Spicer said themselves that synthetic is bad at cooling the ring and pinion. You won't argue this once you compare prices.

Then change transfer case fluid

Then transmission fluid

Then engine oil (I'd honestly do this first). The 4.0L pushrod loves oil with zinc. If your oil pressure is a little low, get rotella T6 oil. If your oil pressure is a little low, and you're burning oil, get the cheaper t5. If your oil pressure is good, don't divert from the recommended 10w30. Amsoil and PYB (pennzoil yellow bottle) is the way to go with this engine

I work in a shop, but I don't have a monopoly on common sense. If you know about reddit, I'd be willing to bet you know about Amazon.

You may actually spend more on gas or electricity to anneal that washer than to have a pack of 20 sent to your house.

YES. Do it.

Your owner's manual will have the torque spec written inside. It will likely be around 25 to 33 ft-lbs. It's probably 29 ft*lbs.

Best process is to replace the drain-bolt washer each time. hand-thread, then snug it up with your wrench.

Don't take much stock in these guys who think they have calibrated hands. This is the thinking of someone who over-torques shit, snap bolts, and strip threads.

If it's your car, do it right, pick up a budget wrench from harbor freight, and call it good.

Amazon Which isn't bad either.

I'll almost guarantee its the valve cover gasket. All of my 4.0 powered jeeps have leaked from the valve cover and it looks just like it's coming from the rear main. Replace it with the good Fel-Pro gasket or some RTV and that should take care of it for the life of your engine.

This ones a lot better if you work with any dually's!

I've used the red Permatex many moons ago and it had no issue. Your biggest issue will be keeping it uniform so you don't end up making yourself more problems.

do you need to take it on and off a whole lot? if you don't just go with gasket tack to keep it stuck in the right places. or go with sheet gasket like this https://www.amazon.ca/Fel-Pro-3060-Gasket-Material/dp/B000CNKUGO and make yourself some kick ass gaskets.

Here's a link to the same bolt I bought: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040CRVD8 (comes in pack of 5).

It's the same type of bolt except a bit oversize, so you can re-thread the aluminum pan -- just do it slowly and be careful on the first try, perhaps even back out a few times.

I was in the same situation and found this to work. I haven't changed the oil again yet, but I'll make a point to be extra careful re-torquing next time.

One piece of advice I found was to use high temp sealant (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002UEN1A) on the bolt at every oil change, as insurance against any lose threading. But just judging form the feel of bolt, once you rethread it seams to be a pretty tight fit; you'd have to be careless to mess it up.

Good luck.

This is sadly pretty common for 1998-2006 BMWs. Always use a torque wrench and a fresh crush washer. Just one Jiffy Lube visit can necessitate a new drain pan or a fix. There are numerous fixes available though:

This is the legit fix: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003SER3PA/ref=aag_m_pw_dp?ie=UTF8&m=A2J41G0RQ2IUXB

I went with this self-tap oversized plug to fix my busted threads: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040CRVD8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you use the cheap oversized method, make sure to actually tap the hole with the plug -- few turns in, back it out, clean, etc.

A seasoned mechanic told me about these and they are all I use now. Replace the washer once, and you are set! Genuine Toyota - Oil Drain Plug Gaskets (QTY10) - 90430-12031 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007OW6MD6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fJ6kDb32WQV05

Should be standard 3 inch 2 bolt gaskets for the muffler to midpipe. If you're stock downpipe you'll need the Grimmspeed stock downpipe to 3" aftermarket exhaust adapter.

As for bolts, you might be able to use the bolts from your stock exhaust to fit. Otherwise bring it to Home Depot/Ace and find ones that are longer and same grade or higher. The Grimmspeed stock downpipe adapter comes with new hardware to connect to the exhaust.

Exhaust Gasket example

Grimmspeed adapter can be found on Amazon or GS site.

Here ya go brother.

http://www.amazon.com/Fel-Pro-3060-Gasket-Material/dp/B000CNKUGO#searchKeyword

That should get you started

https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Ave-Engine-Gaskets-803916010/dp/B07NTWNKRY

you can do the equipment listing on jeeps page, but you probably have the dana 30 front, https://www.amazon.com/Lube-Locker-Dana-Differential-Gasket/dp/B008RAAOJW/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1491932545&sr=1-2-fkmr0&keywords=dana+30gasket and the 35 rear.

I had similar 'problem'... I bought one of these...
https://www.amazon.com/Mokylor-Electric-Transfer-Battery-Operated/dp/B07N5KDG8Y/ref=sr_1_10?crid=2HMC8HW3NDJBI&keywords=12+volt+water+siphon+pump&qid=1565458472&s=gateway&sprefix=12+volt+water+siphon+p%2Caps%2C555&sr=8-10

hope that shows up.. it worked ok for a couple years, uses 2-D batteries... I would opt for a better solution, buy a 12 volt pump, wired in with a switch, etc... loads of choices on amazon... good luck

My friend and I had limited knowledge of Subaru engines before we dove into my overhaul. We decided it was worth it to pull the engine out. It needed a lot of high mileage maintenance.

Felpro Gasket set $130 - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C2AISU/ref=od_aui_detailpages02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Timing Kit $150 -
http://www.amazon.com/Gates-TCKWP307-Engine-Timing-Water/dp/B003TUCFT2/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_img_z

I also did clutch, flywheel, spark plugs, wires, thermostat, and a few other things I'm probably forgetting. I believe that my costs, including the machine work and refreshing my heads, was around $600-700. Considerable savings over taking it to a shop or dealer.

There are more than enough how-to videos and forum write-ups to keep even a newbie mechanic from loosing his/her mind. Gasket failure rates are insane for these years of Subaru, lots of people have been in your shoes. A quick search of "subaru head gasket" on youtube will bring up tons of stuff. Many videos are of people doing the repairs with the engine still in the car. In my opinion, you "might as well" pull the engine all the way out, since you really only have a few fasteners left. Engine mounts, pitch stop, and the bolts/nuts holding the transmission to the engine.
With the engine out, it just makes the rest of your job a lot easier. And you can stand in your engine bay, and that's fun.

Best of luck!

I replaced:

1. driver and passenger side valve cover gaskets
   
   
2. driver side valve cover (FINDAUTO Valve Cover 13264-EA210... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y1Q3C5Z?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share ) (because I broke my original one trying to replace spark plug hole seals)....I recommend replacing both valve covers because those center seals are probably cooked if you’re anywhere near 100k+ miles—and they’re non-serviceable on the frontier’s cheesy plastic valve covers.
   
   
3. all 1-6 spark plugs (check that your ignition coils are also good while you have them out.)
   
   
4. Air plenum and throttle body gaskets (you can get them both as a kit) Vincos Upper Intake/Plenum Gasket... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PKQBLM1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   
5. Air filter: Bosch Workshop Air Filter 5486WS... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VC1Q0Q4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   
6. Engine air cleaner intake duct (mine were cracked): Engine Air Cleaner Intake Duct... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K7V2ZX6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   
7. Pcv Tube (I might be misnomering this part)— (breather tube between the two valve covers. Mine was completely dry rotted) Part No.: 11826-EA200 nissanpartsdeal.com
   
   
8. Two intake valve timing control gaskets (p/n 23797-ZA000 nissanpartsdeal.com)—mine were cashed and you have to take the air Plenum off to replace the passenger side one, so you might as well do it while your Plenum is off. You have to remove these valve control modules to remove the valve covers anyway, so replacing their gaskets is a no-brainer.
   
   •••••••••
   
   
9. My next project is to replace my oil cooler gasket:
   
   MAHLE Original B32573 Engine Oil... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0184JRWN6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   Mine is pissing oil.
   
   •••••••••
   
   I also replaced my number 3 ignition coil. Mine was bad. A mechanic did that one for me. It’s a pisser. 🤦🏻‍♂️
   
   ••••••••
   
   If you need a good low-force torque wrench, I recommend this: TEKTON TRQ21101 1/4-Inch Drive... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M12284X?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   It’s only 1/4” drive, but it works very well. High quality.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00X19P96W/ref=pd_aw_fbt_263_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=NDCT3GZ4P3HTP8C0VHSX

These are great for getting valve caps on your inside tires.

This is the gasket/timing kit I bought. The description says that I has the updated gaskets that don't leak and they appear to be multi-layer steel, at least to me. https://smile.amazon.com/Evergreen-HSHBTBK9012-Gasket-Timing-Subaru/dp/B01AMVR0EU/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1526777704&sr=1-1&keywords=Evergreen+HSHBTBK9012+Head+Gasket+Set+Head+Bolts+Timing+Belt+Kit+Fits+04-09+Subaru+2.5+SOHC+EJ251+EJ253

https://www.amazon.com/Washers-Frontier-Infiniti-Replacement-11026-01M02/dp/B071FLWNWN/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2D5W0SVEZSE3L&keywords=nissan+crush+washer&qid=1573502041&sprefix=nissan+cru%2Caps%2C175&sr=8-4

Get the real Toyota part. It should be aluminum with colored plastic coating on both sides. Most of the time if you buy the Toyota spin on oil filter it comes with the washer.

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-Drain-Gaskets-90430-12031/dp/B007OW6MD6

I've used oversized drain plugs a couple times and they do work.. Here is one from Amazon for m12 x 1.5 - http://www.amazon.com/M12-1-50-Single-Oversize-Drain-Gasket/dp/B0040CRVD8

Compression test makes it look like a head gasket , symptoms sounds like a head gasket

If it’s getting junked fill her with head gasket sealer and ride the wave until she gives up , some people will advice you against it , but it’s like using meth to stay awake .... it’s not ideal .. but it works

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003RGIWO0/ref=sspa_mw_detail_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1

In all seriousness, this is the one i ordered
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000E43BDK?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_t1

I believe I reused all nuts and bolts, and bought one of these 3" gaskets https://www.amazon.com/Vibrant-1458-2-Bolt-Temperature-Exhaust/dp/B000E43BDK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1453940957&sr=8-4&keywords=3+inch+exhaust+flange

If you are using the stock 2.5" exhaust than you would need this 2.5" gasket https://www.amazon.com/Vibrant-2-Bolt-Temperature-Exhaust-Gasket/dp/B001804UBG/ref=pd_bxgy_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001804UBG&pd_rd_r=JAE2WWAG2H5YC8Y6P3ZV&pd_rd_w=0jIyr&pd_rd_wg=fkw7L&psc=1&refRID=JAE2WWAG2H5YC8Y6P3ZV&dpID=4137PPGTK3L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail

You can literally make gaskets out of cereal box cardboard in a pinch. You pretty much cant go wrong as long as you get something rated for automotive use you can use it nearly everywhere on the bike if you wanted to. I started out by buying an assortment of smaller sheets like THIS and then used whatever matched the original as closely as possible. When you run out of your assortment, you can run down to your local automotive parts store and get a replacement roll of the one(s) you used up the quickest, and those will last you a long time if you're just using them for personal use.

You could also look at exhaust cut to form gaskets like this. https://www.amazon.com/Fel-Pro-3157-Gasket-Material/dp/B000CNISM2/ref=pd_rhf_cr_s_cp_0_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000CNISM2&pd_rd_r=BTV7MG3NPTCAVVZ15C0A&pd_rd_w=GcIVU&pd_rd_wg=F7wrf&psc=1&refRID=BTV7MG3NPTCAVVZ15C0A#customerReviews

Fel-pro makes one-piece pan gaskets that are top notch. I just got done doing this job on my '92, along with the rear main seal, oil filter adapter housing o-rings, and valve cover gasket.

Dry as a bone now.

To OP: I would also check the oil filter adapter for leaking. Very common. And if you do buy gaskets for the pan and valve cover, spend the extra money on the one piece Fe-Pro gaskets. They're worth every penny.

tips on pan gasket replacement:

• Buy RTV that is designed for use with oil
  
• Put RTV on the rear main cap to pan mating surface, the corners where the main cap and block meet, the corners up front on the timing cover, and the lower timing cover to pan mating surface. Also dab some RTV on each side of the pan rail in the middle of each side.
  
• Put the gasket against the block and insert pan bolts close to each location you put RTV above and tighten hand tight
  
• Let sit over night, or long enough that RTV will hold pan gasket in place while you wrestle the pan in place
  
• Before installing pan, put more RTV in the same spots as above, but on the gasket surface this time.
  
• Install pan without trying to wrestle everything in place and getting RTV everywhere except where it should be

Here's what a new head gasket kit will include:

Kit on Amazon

If the guy bought only the head gaskets, then they didn't replace all the other casket, that come in a kit. That they did the whole kit rather than just the head gaskets is good. Better, according to everyone else, that that they did the head bolts too.

I have a 98 and had to have my head gaskets done. I had a friend who works on Subarus for fun so he did it for significantly cheaper. The shop I worked at gave me an estimate of about $1500 +parts so if you can I'd try to find a smaller mechanics shop or get a friends recommendation with a Subaru "expert" and maybe get a deal. If you went and bought parts they might charge you slightly less. If you do get Fel-Pro. Check your specific model for fit but this is what the pros will use and it's what I used. Honestly I'd buy this anyways and have whoever you use make them put these parts in. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C2AISU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_cEIpyb6P0RDAW

This is what I have it narrowed down to...

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=301903196224&globalID=EBAY-US

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=351610054673&globalID=EBAY-US

Fel-Pro Hs26170Pt1 Head Gasket Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C2AISU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_.l18wb0T9HNVQ

Honestly not sure if this will help but it looks like you can use a exhaust gasket depending on that pipe size I'm thinking something of this sort Ticon Industries - 2 Bolt MLSG High Temp Exhaust Gasket 3" I.D. (Qty 2) - Heavy Duty - 120-07610-0002 (3 Inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZ51EMN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5nG.Ab7ZV7FRG