Best replacement parts according to redditors
We found 9,935 Reddit comments discussing the best replacement parts. We ranked the 5,520 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
1. Battery Tender Junior Charger and Maintainer: Automatic 12V Powersports Battery Charger and Maintainer for Motorcycle, ATVs, and More - Smart 12 Volt, 750mA Battery Float Chargers - 021-0123
STAY CHARGED: Provides a full charge to your machine’s battery before switching to float mode to maintain proper voltage levels for safe, long term storage without overcharging. Spark proof during lead connection, reverse polarity protected and includes a 12-foot output cord and 5-year warrantyEAS...
2. Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 3 oz. Tube
Protects electrical connections and wiring from salt, dirt and corrosionPrevents voltage leaks around any electrical connectionExtends the life of bulb socketsRequired for modern high energy ignition systemsSuggested Applications: Marine and automotive electrical connections, spark plug boots, trail...
3. Battery Tender USB Charger Adaptor
2.1 amps outputQuite portableRubber flap protects charger connectorsPerfect for a charging device for your bike, ATV, etc.Attaches to existing Battery Tender quick disconnect
4. STANLEY J5C09 JUMPiT Portable Power Station Jump Starter: 1000 Peak/500 Instant Amps, 120 PSI Air Compressor, USB Port, Battery Clamps
Delivers serious jump-starting power with 1000 peak amps and 500 instant starting ampsReverse polarity alarm alerts when there is an improper connection; Connect the clamps to the battery, turn on the switch and start your vehicle. All Metal Powder Coated ClampsFeatures a 120 PSI air compressor to h...
5. HELLA 003399801 Supertone 12V High Tone / Low Tone Twin Horn Kit with Red Protective Grill, 2 Horns (3AG 003 399-801)
These are the famous loud and powerful Dual Supertone Horns which look and sound like nothing else on the road. These horns guarantee the attention needed in every situation.HELLA Supertone horns guarantee best functionality, optimum fit and long lasting customer satisfaction.Original equipment qual...
6. NOCO Boost Plus GB40 1000 Amp 12-Volt Ultra Safe Portable Lithium Car Battery Jump Starter Pack For Up To 6-Liter Gasoline And 3-Liter Diesel Engines
Start Dead Batteries - Safely jump start a dead battery in seconds with this compact, yet powerful, 1000-amp portable lithium car battery jump starter pack - up to 20 jump starts on a single charge - and rated for gasoline engines up to 6 liters and diesel engines up to 3 liters.UltraSafe - Safe and...
7. Battery Tender Ring Terminal Accessory Cable
18" cord adaptorPlugs into all Deltran Battery TendersConvenient for hard-to-access batteriesAdaptor plug is compatible with most heated suits for motorcycles or snowmobilesThis ring terminal harness includes a 7.5 -amp fuse and is 18 inches in length
8. Thrustmaster TH8A Add-On Gearbox Shifter for PC, PS3, PS4 and Xbox One
Optimized clamping for any support surface100% metal internal mechanism, metal gear stick and metal clamping systemH.E.A.R.T. HallEffect AccuRate Technology; Precision that won't decrease over time (contactless magnetic sensor); No tact switch and no potentiometer (for unlimited product lifespan)
9. Schumacher XP2260 1200 Peak Amp Instant Portable Power Source and Jump Starter
On/Off switch activates the jump starting mode. Cold Crank Amps- 185. Crank Amps 30 Sec- 255. Crank Amps 5 Sec- 300. Air Compressor- 150 PSIBuilt-in charger for automatic charging of internal battery; Battery status LEDs indicate when battery is charged or needs to be chargedBuilt-in 400 Watt power ...
10. Clore Automotive Jump-N-Carry JNC660 1700 Peak Amp 12 Volt Jump Starter
1,700 Peak Amps; 425 Cranking Amps22Ah Clore PROFORMER Battery46" Heavy-Duty #2 AWG CablesVoltmeter provides charge status of onboard battery.The ideal storage environment is room temperature, or 68ºFDC outlet to power 12 volt accessories; DC input to recharge internal batteryBuilt-in Automatic Cha...
11. Nilight GA0007 1 2Pin Way 16AWG Waterproof Wire 1.5mm Series Terminal Connector-5 Pack,2 Years Warranty
16 AWG male & female waterproof connectors with 10cm wire.Operating temperature : -40℃~+120℃2 position rectangular black housing connector (hole dia: 0.24")Applied with the good quality rubber seal to make it better dustproof and waterproof. It most use for marine, car, truck, boat, motorcycle, ...
12. bayite DC 6.5-100V 0-100A LCD Display Digital Current Voltage Power Energy Meter Multimeter Ammeter Voltmeter with 100A Current Shunt
Test range: Voltage: DC 6.5~100V; Current: 0~100A; Power: 0~10kW; Energy: 0~9999kWhStore energy data when power off(can be reset to 0). The blue backlight can be turned on/off manuallyWith overload alarm function(If active power is larger than threshold, backlight and power will flash)4 in 1 meter; ...
13. Battery Tender Female Cigarette Adapter Accessory Cable Connects Between Battery to Battery, Inverter, RV Mobile, Charger.
6 feet of cord for easy access, it will reach handlebar attachments such as GPS or music players.Quick plug and play design with protective flap to limit dust incursionRing terminal connection fits any battery lugHigh quality construction, rugged and durable
14. NOCO GC018 12-Volt Adapter Plug Socket With Eyelet Battery Terminals
Permanently mount a 12-volt adapter plug socket directly from your car battery to power a tire inflator, vacuum, coffee maker, and more.Water-resistant cap to protect the female adapter plug socket from the elements.Built-in fused connection for protection against short circuit.High-conductivity 16 ...
15. 3M Super Strength Molding Tape, 03614, 1/2 in x 15 ft
Resists moisture, UV and solventsCut to sizeno messPERMANENT PRO RESULTS: Permanently attaches side moldings, trim and emblems to the interior and exterior of vehicles.WEATHERABLE: High strength double-sided adhesive withstands weather and impact. Temperature use range is -40F to 250F.EASY TO USE: C...
16. WirthCo 20092 Battery Doctor 125 Amp/150 Amp Battery Isolator
Water resistant (IP62) - suitable for marine usePriority charging for starting batteryAutomatically charges auxiliary batteryManual override for starting batteryOver current and surge protected for vehicles with electronic systems
17. Permatex 81150 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 0.33 oz. Tube
Protects electrical connections and wiring from salt, dirt and corrosionPrevents voltage leaks around any electrical connectionExtends the life of bulb socketsRequired for modern high energy ignition systemsSuggested Applications: Marine and automotive electrical connections, spark plug boots, trail...
18. Enclosed AC/DC Power Relay with Protection & De-Bounce. Screw Terminals. 120V Trigger Input.
Safe and easy to install. Controls any AC or DC device.Durable high current relay for long life and reliable switching.De-bounce circuit for safety. Dry contact relay output - connect to any voltage circuit.Thermal switch and circuit breaker add safety, limiting current to 15 Amps.Includes detachabl...
19. STANLEY FATMAX J7CS Portable Power Station Jump Starter: 700 Peak/350 Instant Amps, 120 PSI Air Compressor, 3.1A USB Ports, Battery Clamps
Delivers jump-starting power with 700 peak amps and 350 instant starting ampsReverse polarity alarm alerts when there is an improper connection; Connect the clamps to the battery, turn on the switch and start your vehicleFeatures a 120 PSI air compressor to help inflate tires with low pressure; High...
How the hell is this 94% upvoted. This isn't a service Uber provides, Ubers don't use a traditional metering service it only takes a few minutes to jump a car, the uber you order might not be able to jump your car if they don't have cables, their car can't jump cars, or if they could just say no.
Anytime I see someone with the hood up on there car just looking around. I ask if they need a jump. I was filling up my windshield fluid the other day someone stopped and asked if I needed a jump.
Local police departments might jump cars through their non emergency number. This will vary department-department and hour-hour if they do since it's low on their list on priorities. But some departments will Protect & Serve.
Here's a real LPT:
Buy a proper 500amp jump starter that doubles as a tire pump and massive back up battery for phones. And you won't need to rely on cellular service, AAA, Uber, or a random act of kindness to save your ass when you're stranded. (Some even have a DC converter with adapters to directly power laptops/DVD players so you could glamp with it. I just linked the first Amazon link.)
take it to an auto parts store and have them check the alternator, or go buy one of these and never worry about a dead battery again. but dont look for the cheaper lithium ones, those have a habit of exploding.
You'll want to add a fuse, it's the safest way to go about it and super easy. https://www.amazon.com/BUSS-HHH-Amp-Add-Fuse/dp/B000GKEXK2
Lithium jumper packs. Everyone should keep one in their car.
Some cost more, some cost less.
Ooo I like this question. Here's my list of unconventional must-haves.
Not hard. Do you want the super easy and lazy way?
Get a battery tender quick disconnect and then get the usb port that plugs directly into it.
Quick disconnect: https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ
USB port: https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0158-Disconnect-Smartphone/dp/B00DJ5KEF4/ref=pd_sim_263_3?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00DJ5KEF4&amp;pd_rd_r=YJ39F7M010D2BW6GZEY0&amp;pd_rd_w=ANaFZ&amp;pd_rd_wg=QpvAv&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=YJ39F7M010D2BW6GZEY0
How to make trigger buttons smooth as butter:
The problem is that there is no grease on the plastic-on-plastic movement of the triggers. I did that for both my controllers (maybe I should have made a video...):
I really wish Ouya would have done that first-hand. It is a very easy thing to fix that would not have cost them much... Hope that helps!
Edit: fixed link
This is the one the pros use, auto shops and roadside assistance techs
For anyone wondering, it's a T300 RS wheel, TH8A Shifter and T3PA pedal set. All from Thrustmaster. The chair is a Challenge from Playseat. And a PSVR, obviously.
Edit: /u/StephenSchleis requested that I add Amazon links, so here you go.
Bonus tip, the T3PA pedals come with the conical brake mod. It’s well worth installing. Also, cut out a piece of carpet and stick it to the pedal base for a bit of extra comfort.
The 6v golf cart batteries from Costco or Sams Club are what people usually recommend. I have them and they work well.
Also, get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013PKYILS Single best upgrade I've done to my trailer.
Have you heard of our dear lord and savior Hella?
Or just $26 every day at Amazon
I feel you friend. I also went camping but did take one of those car jump all in one batteries along with a 12 volt power adapter for my machine. it had worked the previous camping trip for about three to four days just fine. But this time, it died at 1 a.m. the first night and I was awake the rest of the night. I simply cannot sleep without my cpap at this point. The rest of the trip was a misery, next night slept in the passenger seat of my Prius with the CPAP plugged and car on (on but not running). trying to sleep in a seat sucks, but the car turned itself off every hour so it was hardly any better than that first night. I believe the next night I slept in the bed of a truck with a CPAP plugged in in the truck (again, on but not running) through the little back window and it worked much better. Until it rained.
So the NEXT camping trip I got my shit together.
Get a deep marine battery. These are designed to power small things on a boat and are used to the small dribble of electricity over a long period of time. Get a battery box to place it in for safety, and a battery tender to charge it before the trip. You'll want a ring terminal harness to attach to the battery posts, and a female 12 volt adapter to plug your machine into.
The box contains everything safely with just the plugs you want sticking out the slots in the lid, but if there's small children in the camp you may want to ratchet strap it closed to be on the safe side.
I got battery and box at my local walmart. The rest from Amazon.
Female cigarette adapter:
Battery Tender Black 081-0069-8 Female Cigarette Adaptor for Quick Disconnect https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0041CDPQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_173UCbVCXJH0M
Ring terminal harness:
Battery Tender 081-0069-6 Ring Terminal Harness with Black Fused 2-Pin Quick Disconnect Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7-3UCbPET1K8N
Battery tender to charge your battery:
Battery Tender 12 Volt Junior Automatic Battery Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CITK8S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ak4UCbQYJBZCA
And of course you'll need to get the 12 volt power adapter. Look up the model maker of your CPAP machine and Google away to see where you can find one. I looked for my manual and then I found the one that was recommended in the manual along with recommendations. Mine recommends I do not use the water chamber when using the 12 volt power adapter due to power consumption and no way am I risking the battery running out of power before the trip is over. I got the adapter from a generic CPAP supplies website.
Good luck! I'm going camping this summer I hope my setup still works!
I usually camp out of state with family and have a few nights in a house before heading home. I always bring a new face mask new filter and even a new hose if I have one as after camping the machine reeks of woodsmoke and it drives me absolutely batty.
Edited to fix oh so many typos.
PS: I will edit the links more pretty when I'm on a desktop sorry about the non pretty formatting
Maybe it's just because I am not a hands-on kinda guy, but I would never define jump starting as being trickier than tire changing.
That being said, if you can afford a charger pack that you can keep in your trunk, those things are amazing. If you keep it charged, you can jump a car without needing a second car, and they usually come with other features, depending on the model and battery strength. I've had ones with small air compressors in them (to fill a tire), emergency lights, and an AC outlet. They can be pricey but they're great for a car emergency kit.
Edit: Something like this which I just pulled up on Amazon arbitrarily.
Sounds like the tender harness that I've got with the in line fuse https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ for a tender.
On sale and everything.
edit: more expensive ones will have higher amps I think and can work on cars or larger batteries, but for a motorcycle that one will be more than enough.
Those are after market horns.
Check out this article about outdoor winter storage.
If your scooter is going to be sitting for long periods of time, use fuel stabilizer and a battery tender. Also, I would recommend treating it liberally with ACF-50, which prevents corrosion.
You might want to post in /r/chicagomotorcycles too.
I took my first bike (2001 ninja 250) from NC to seattle, coast to coast, 2 months after I got it. Long trips are great as long as you prepare for them.
1 - Maintenance. If there are any intervals that will happen during or soon after your trip, do them before you leave.
2 - Get roadside assistance or something similar. At least have the number for a tow truck.
3 - Make sure you can charge your phone/other stuff. Basic hookup involves something like this, or a battery tender cable with an adapter. I did the second one, with the quick disconnect between my seat (where the cable comes out from the battery) and my tank bag, where all the wires are.
Getting to the actual riding part...
1 - Wind isn't as much of a problem as you might think. It can suck, but if you stay relaxed it'll be just fine. Remember, the bike will always want to stay up, so just let it do its thing. (your bike weighs ~650lbs, it's not going to be too badly affected anyway)
2 - Take breaks! At least once an hour, pull over for 30 seconds or so and get off the bike. Walk around it, drink some water. Fatigue has a nasty habit of creeping up on you without you realizing it.
3 - Stay hydrated and fed, and keep a bottle of water with you.
That's all I have for right now, I'll edit later if I think of something else
edit: get some earbuds or a big old speaker if you're against headphones while riding. Hours upon hours of road without a radio or anything gets boring insanely fast.
Get a Thrustmaster wheel over the Logitech wheels. The technology in the Thrustmaster wheels is far far superior to the notchy gear drive of the Logitech. I suggest getting the following
You get a full size rim (logitech uses a very small unrealistic rim size.) You can also add a shifter if you prefer that.
This is what we used this last year Stanley J7CS 350 Amp Battery Jump Starter with Compressor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RZXVQSU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0dYryb53RQN05
Jump starts your car and comes with an air compressor. My group of four was able to charge our phones and play music all weekend. Just get a power inverter ( BESTEK 200W Power Inverter DC 12V to 110V AC Inverter with 4.2A 4-Port USB Car Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EY6RJKA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8kYryb7XBT29W ) and you can power anything with it.
This is great. Even better for me has been a Jumper / Battery / Compressor / USB charger / Light combo. This one at Amazon is $55 right now, waay cheaper than getting all 4 of those things. With the $5 cable (‘often purchased together’) you can charge it up from your car while driving and use the USB ports for devices without having to turn your car on again.
Good luck with your travels!
If you find the space bar rattles too much, buy a tube of this and use a tooth pick to put a bit around the stabilizers. Just did on my wife’s keyboard that looks like a similar keyboard sold by monoprice and it’s almost completely silent.
One example of a battery tender
At that budget level, you're going to be looking at more budget oriented radios from the likes of Baofeng, TYT, QYT, Leixn, and the other assorted Chinese manufacturers. The one you mentioned is not a bad choice, so let's run with that...
side note: For a mag mount antenna, the Tram 1185 is a good cheap option at $21.63
additional side note: Neither one of these antennas I mentioned is tri band capable, they're dual band 2m/70cm only. Tri band 2m/1.25/70cm antennas are considerably more expensive. Unless there's regular 1.25m activity in your area, you may wish to reconsider your need for having this band.
Total: $188.96 or $209.19 if you choose the 20Ah battery option.
Use whatever is left over for a case. A nice Pelican will probably consume the rest of your budget. Or you could go down to your local sporting goods store and browse the handgun cases there. You'll probably be able to find something good for $15-30 and have a few bucks left over. I found this 4 pistol case at my local Sportsmans Warehouse, it's cheap, reaonably well built, and is a pretty good size. I can fit a small army of handheld radios and associated paraphernalia in mine, so it should be big enough to hold a mobile rig plus battery.
Stanley J5C09 1000 Peak Amp Jump Starter with Compressor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002X6VXL4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_7VQ8ybDQCZR9E
Could get the cheaper T300 GT if you want but the alcantera rim is worth it for that small price increase.
I use one of these which has saved me on multiple occasions ... and is much easier than bothering with jumper cables where you need another vehicle to assist.
Should really just get one of those batteries to jump cars which conveniently has a USB out:
Everyone in the DMV should own a portable jumpstarter/air compressor
STANLEY J5C09 Jump Starter: 1000 Peak/500 Instant Amps, 120 PSI Air Compressor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002X6VXL4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pf65Bb08XPJKC
My $100ish must have use everyday options include: cordless 3/8 ratchet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CZWBYBK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Tw.2DbXFTMF30, lighting! a good rechargeable headlamp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CV3VTYB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_aI.2DbYZ76FY7, flashlight or decent under hood light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MTXC016/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sK.2Db40MCX8D, a portable jump box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015TKUPIC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mL.2DbX8E94SN or 24 cans of brake cleaner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JRPDW7M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Du.2DbZ2WMZDE
You've got pretty much everything you need for a solderless build on that list
If you want to save ~$50, you could get your stabilizers and switches elsewhere. Outside of Zeal's offerings, Kailh's BOX Black switches are probably the smoothest unmodded linears on the market, and you can get 70 for $21 from NovelKeys.
They also sell Cherry screw-in stabilizers for $2~3 each, if you don't mind them not being gold-plated. I've never tried Zeal's stabilizers, but imho, clipping, lubing, and bandaid-modding Cherry ones will probably make them feel just as good to your fingers as any more expensive kind would. The only thing you'd probably need to get is dielectric grease, which you'd only need a few drops of per stabilizer.
To quote one of my recent comments about silencing stabilizers:
I've spent tons of time researching and modding stabilizers and here's the method I use to make them as silent as possible:
Let's Build: KBD75 + Zealios 65g (YouTube)
[stabilizer modding starts at 12:11]
What you'll need:
This is what they should sound like:
While I’m waiting on my Lumina to come in, I figure I’d do a cheaper, experimental tactile build.
Keyboard: Duck Sidewinder Gray
Stabs: GMK Screw in Stabalizers w/ Walker Mod (no adhesive sticker)
Switches: Holy Razers
I needed something to scratch my itch while I wait for my Lumina, so I decided to pick up the Duck Sidewinder and screw around with some mods. I have a bunch of halo’s and Outemu Ice V2’s lying around, so I decided to pick up some Greetech switches to mess around with. After lubing them up with Krytox 205, I had a good set of holy razers, and I’m pretty happy with them.
I’ve used butyl rubber to deaden the sound in my keyboards before, but this is the first time using it on the spacebar. I actually like the added weight in the spacebar, and I had no idea if I would or not.
As far as the caps go… Truth be told, I’m not much of a fan, but I was hoping the dark blue would bring out the blue tones in the case, and I think it did pretty well. I’ll keep them on for bit and see if they grow on me. It's just hard to find a good set of caps that are colemak compatible. Currently I'm waiting on these.
I’m pretty excited to have this as my daily driver for awhile :)
Hella horns. Really popular among the Subaru community.
I also bought a 12V horn wiring harness relay kit (basically extension cords for the horn) for $12.99 just in case https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XM107FC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Must Have Apps
Very excited to be ~95% complete with the install. A couple things left:
More than happy to try to answer questions for anyone else looking to do the same thing. Very happy with the outcome thus far.
Window breaker and a seat belt cutter. As well as a first aid kit, multi-tool/knife. Also invest in a nice jump starter that doesn't require another car.
I used to work at a car auction, jump starting hundreds of cars a day. We went through several different brands before settling on these, from Amazon. I had one that lasted through the better part of 2 years, with 2x daily drain/charge cycles, getting thrown off golf carts, cracked, dropped, ran over, etc.
Install one of these as well as one of these and you're good to go. That is the setup I have running to my handlebars for my phone while riding. I also installed a switch so I can stop it from pulling power when parked or raining or whatever, you can see the switch glowing red under my seat.
Height should be your biggest concern.
I'm 5'11", with kinda short legs, too. I couldn't ride this bike if it were any higher. You can get lowering links, and a different seat, and you should be OK - right about where I'm at, but it may never be "like a glove" comfortable.
It will totally get the city job done. Little box on the back, and you're good to go. When they hit potholes, and nearly lose it, you'll float over like nothing. Mine is a daily commuter and a weekend warrior. There is nothing this bike won't do "pretty ok".
Riding is riding. Unless you're trying to keep up with people doing 80+, you'll be just fine. The bike is as much fun as any other bike on the street at <60mph. I've ridden with groups of guys on harleys, groups of older guys on Can-Am and Goldwing trikes, adventure bike groups, groups of kids on dirtbikes, families on atvs, and in giant packs of streetbikes on weekend evenings.
Travelling far distance ... don't do it unless you're comfortable on a bike already. Riding for hours on end can play tricks with your concentration and whatnot. If you must, and you're not that experienced, plan on a 15-20 minute break for every hour riding. Just do it.
Here's some shit that I learned the hard way:
Change the oil/filters before you go, and check the plug. Check your air filter after 1000 miles of highway/trail. Plan your trip to avoid interstate. You will be much more relaxed on smaller highways, and you won't have as many trucks and their drafts to contend with. Calculate your gas mileage at every fillup. Little problems can show up as dropping mileage before they become big problems. Put some flat stop in your tubes. Give the tires a push check before starting every time. Bring rain riding gear, and hope you don't need it. Get a throttle lock. Either a good one or a cheap one. The KLR will vibrate your hands numb, you will need to get your hand off the bars for a bit. Wear a camelback water bag. A good GPS/phone mount that offers visibility without having to look away from the road is really nice when going through unfamiliar towns. Make sure you have a usb charger if you don't have a 12v socket. for your gps/phone on the bike. Carry extra cheap eye protection. One of those ATV seat pads can help if you get a sore ass easily. Don't beeline it to your destination - make a point to include a side-trip up a mountain or something as often as you can.
I think you'll end up liking the bike, and you'll end up going on that "adventure" ride sooner than you think :)
Lanesplitting is as easy as you want it to be, with no panniers. It starts to get hairy above 60, because after that the KLR just doesn't have the instant go that you need to zip through smaller spaces. So at those speeds, you're more like a cruiser bike. But at city speeds, once you've been in the saddle a few months, it feels really small in traffic.
That seems correct. Check your battery and look for extra cables there. There should be a little cable that has a fuse added to it, if so, then you are golden. Just get a USB adapter and you have a quick phone charger. I run a similar system on my bike for long trips.
Battery tender USB adapter thingy
Personally for local or camping (not air travel) I like the 35-55 AH AGM SLA scooter batteries. (SLA = sealed lead acid aka non-spillable) If you turn of heated hose & humidification (passover humidification is okay) they will last a few nights. See the ResMed battery guide for more detailed run estimates at https://www.resmed.com/us/dam/documents/articles/198103_battery-guide_glo_eng.pdf.
Basic list of parts you need:
Depending on which CPAP machine you have:
Edit: the cigarette adapter is only optional for ResMed since it comes with a clamp adapter - Philips does not. I'd still get one though since it can bolt to the battery terminals.
so much better than a stupid cigarette adapter.
Skip the cigarette adapter. THIS is all you need to connect to the tender wire you have.
I am only aware on one user claiming there was an error and that user correlated that to his recent install of a hardwired blackvue. No real science there and highly speculative.
The way I hardwired into the 12v was simple. I bought this: NOCO GC018 12V Adapter Plug Socket with Eyelet Terminal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G8WLW2Y?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
and installed on the battery terminal. It has an in line 10amp fuse and tucks away neatly under the hood. Then I ran the blackvue power cable into the car through the firewall where Tesla provides a very nice rubber plug to do so. Everything took about an hour to do (and I did it twice after doing it the first time without a fuse and it worked fine - just wanted to be extra safe)
This is why I keep one of these in my car.
Get a jump starter. Example:
I got one recently that has the jump starter, air compressor, USB ports, and AC and DC outlets. I don't know if you can get one that has all that for under $50 though.
I keep one of these charged up in my trunk. It saved me a couple times with my previous ICE car, including one time over a year since I had last charged it.
I figure it might still come in handy with the Tesla in the case where there's a 12V failure, but it could also help someone else who needs a jump. It also has a light and a USB charging port.
Had a post like this awhile ago with more insight for those who care...
I guess I can repost my own post:
I do this kind of thing as a part time job for CDOT (Colorado Dept of Transportation) when I want extra money to buy something stupid, so I have some good insight as to what gets people stuck.
>An extra belt and a breaker bar big enough to move the tensioner.
I mean, I don't carry an extra belt, but I'm pretty good about checking wear on it every few weeks or so. However, a breaker bar is definitely definite definitely recommended. It's most useful for wheel lugs, but it'll work on a belt tensioner too.
>Spare hose clamp for if you blow a radiator hose off/ intake hose/ turbo hose/ whatever. They cost like nothing (literal cents), but when you need it you need it. You ain't going anywhere with no air intake/ turbo intake/ coolant hose.
>Bottle jack? instead of the stock scissor jack?
No you don't need a full size floor jack.
If you have a regular passenger car (like a 4 door car) the scissor jack will work fine. They are kind of tedious to jack up and down but it's for an emergency, not everyday use. The bottle jack is a good idea for large SUV, Trucks, and RVs. Make sure you have a base or something on it if you have any sort of lift. Also remember that you will have to jack up much further to install the inflated tire than you had to for the flat one.
Only other advice I have here is actually pull that jack out and figure out how to use it. They all gotta be different and some are like oragami in how this click into that, which slides onto that... Reading the user manual and deciphering the IKEA-esque pictures on the side of the road just adds frustration and stress to the already crappy situation.
Meh. A spare tire is the better option. Make sure you check it's inflated at least every couple months. It's very very common that people have a spare, but that its flat. It does you no good as a spare if it's flat. A tire plug kit a definitely a good thing though. If you do HAVE to use the fix a flat, prepare to have a tire shop guy charge you twice when they find it all over the wheel. It's a nightmare to clean off, and as others have said will ruin you TPMS sensor. Depending on the make/model of your car this could be another $35 to $100 you have to spend, in addition to a new tire.
>Lights! and flares
(Ignore the guy in the comments that said lights are only emergency vehicles. He has no idea what he's talking about)
For an emergency kit, flares are better since they don't require batteries (that you will forget to change/ charge). However, lots of road flares last 30 - 60 minutes. It should take you 20 to change a flat. Be careful with the flares as many types drip as they burn. Don't light yourself or the side of the road on fire. I know you're thinking "well duh" but it happens every year in CO where I live. Someone lights the brush on fire near the highway cause they put flares out and got to fixing their car and not paying attention.
That said, you can get LED road flares that are bright and really good at attracting attention. Look up the laws in your area. Some places restrict the color you can use. Amber (orange) is usually a pretty safe color to choose. If you can get on that has more than one color, it's better. Monochromatic light doesn't give people good depth perception. Avoid as much as possible bright white strobes facing rearward. All you're going to do is blind the people you are trying not to get hit by.
> Screwdriver set with misc bits
Like others have said, this won't be super useful for your car, but for various other tasks it can be a huge time/ money/ aggravation saver to just have basic tools for random things. Ever tried to get a hose clamp off with just your fingers? You just have to remember to put those tools back in the kit. You don't need Snap Off for this as they likely won't get used that much. Don't get the cheapest ones at Harbor Freight either. Get the " pittburgh professional" ones.
> Socket set?
You can get the set if you want to, but at a minimum get the socket that fits your lugs. Get the drive size that fits the breaker bar you got from above (likely 1/2"). When I do this for work I had a cordless impact driver which was awesome, but a breaker bar doesn't require you to remember to charge batteries, and I haven't found anyone that just wasn't strong enough to use one. A breaker bar is like $15. Cordless impact driver powerful enough is like $250+.
>Glass Breaker/ Hammer
Honestly, you'd be better off with a spring loaded center punch. You have to have room to swing the hammer, and some people (elderly, children) just don't have the strength to hit the window hard enough. With the center punch, you just touch it to the glass and push until it clicks. Many cops and firefighters use these as a means to get you out. If you go this route, have a seat belt cutter, pocket knife, something...
It's better if you mount this somewhere where it wont get buried. My favorite place is honestly the trunk lid or right in front of the taillight area in a car, under one of the seats for a SUV or truck (if you can easily flip it up). Imagine yourself suddenly panicking and thinking holy goddamn s**t my car is on fire, and scrambling to get to your extinguisher. Put it somewhere you can scramble to easy. If it takes longer than 10 seconds, its not accessible enough.
> A little portable air compressor
can really help if you get a flat and have a flat spare. Not necessary but sure is nice. You can use it for other things too (blowing up sports balls air mattresses etc...). They usually take FOREVER to fill a tire, but if you're stuck anyway...
>Roll of duct tape (because obviously).
I've used it to tape up bumpers after an accident so they can at least get off the road, to secure wiring, to a whole number of other things.
Maybe. Gallon of coolant or distilled water at least. quart of oil, etc... This also depends on where you normally drive. If you never leave the city and a parts store is usually a couple blocks away then you don't have to bother. If you live outside the city and it would take you the entire afternoon to walk the next 15 miles to the store...well, plan accordingly.
> Tire pressure gauge.
To check main and spare tires. Don't trust the ones on the gas station pump (they get slammed around and scraped on the ground). I've seen them as inaccurate as 15 - 20 p.s.i. off.
> Jumper cables.
Better yet, your own jump pack.. Jumper cables are only useful if someone else is there to rescue you.
> A tow strap
is kinda nice, but if you're stuck and there's nobody else around it won't help you (unless you have a winch/ come-along). Nothing wrong with having one handy in case someone comes along though.
> Tire chains.
Don't know where you live but in CO there is actually a new (ish) chain law for passenger vehicles. When it's in effect you are supposed to have chains (or alternative traction device) in place. It's not just for truckers anymore. I take them out in the summer.
> A shaker siphon
Makes transferring fuel way way way way way less infuriating than dealing with the stupid friggin gas cans you have to buy nowadays. All the silly safeties and valves, it's like playing goddamn BopIt. They also work for coolant and washer fluid too, not that you would be dumping gallons of washer fluid... How to use it I don't carry a fuel container in my truck with me, but FYI it's illegal (in the US at least) to transport fuel in anything other than an approved fuel container. I doubt you'll get in trouble, just something to consider.
I've got one of these and it works great https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GB40-UltraSafe-Lithium-Starter/dp/B015TKUPIC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542410718&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=car+jump+pack
I just carry one of these and I'm not worried about it beyond that. This has also been useful when other people ask for a jump and has saved my friends who have been parked in a manner where jumper cables wouldn't reach their battery from another car.
... It's also a huge usb battery bank and can be charged from usb, so I could start my car using a small goal zero solar panel if I really needed to.
Other than that, I have one of these in my dash DC port, which lets me keep an eye on the 12v when I'm running an inverter as well as monitor interior temp.
For countryman E6s, we ALWAYS make sure to use the response caps to keep makeup out of the diaphragm. Also, the cables run about $60, as you know. Making sure people are careful with them is our biggest problem here, we burn through cables like candy when we do kids shows.
For especially sweaty actors we like to use dielectric silicone (https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2) to seal the connection between the headset and the cable. Keeps everything nice and waterproof but still conducting.
I have owned a set of 12 E6s for about 8 years now, they very rarely fail on me. But replacement cables are a MUST!
This is what I went with. I've had no issues in the 3 years I've owned it.
Cheap, small, and safe...
I'd get this one: http://amzn.com/B000CITK8S
those fuckers BARK at you.
you need these. http://www.amazon.com/HELLA-760688000000-003399801-Supertone-Bracket/dp/B000CRZXPI
they work exceptionally well at tell someone to get the fuck out of the way.
I once watched a serious case of road rage happen in front of me on 85S. One guy kept swerving into the lane of the other guy, nearly hitting him multiple times. I got up as close as I was comfortable doing (my car had excellent brakes just in case) and just laid on the horn with the hellas. They got the hint and both chilled out and went about their business.
118 DB. Sounds awesome. People GTFO of your way.
Hella SuperTones in blue
Hella Supertones are pretty popular in the Subaru scene. They’re fairly easy to mount behind the grille in most cars. Personally, I like the sound of the new Sharptones a little bit more. But there’s endless options out there. Just find some tone that you like. Most electronic horns are gonna wire up the same
They make add-a-fuses which are cheap and super easy to install. Pick one up next time you're at the parts store and whack it in for peace of mind. I used one to install my dashcam.
I keep one of these in my trunk.
> I can't get the bolts on the battery leads loose
Try a 10mm socket rather than a screwdriver.
Like /u/greenslither says, once you get your battery cables loose, fit this harness and use a Battery Tender or equivalent.
I know it won't help you immediately, but if you're willing to "throw $20 at somebody" for a jump, just buy one of these:
$65 and it's insanely useful. I just had to use mine last week for the first time and it was super fast and easy, and it still had its charge from last winter.
or, just ride it out. one of these is a good idea to have around anyway (not sure what your winters are like). one day, you'll need it. and when you do, its time for a new battery.
Get This and then get This. You should be golden.
I have one of these that I really like. The compressor is crap, but it will charge electronics for days and has never let me down on a jump start. I have an ARB compressor and I'm working on a dual battery set up so it will soon be obsolete, but it has served me well the last couple of years.
I'd recommend this if you have the budget for it. It's also useful to jump start your car in case... My employees use this at the camping festivals they go to, to charge their batteries. Either that or just buy extra sets of batteries to last you a week along.
Aside from that, possibly some portable chargers, or a portable charger with an efficient solar panel to recharge that as well if you have any mods with internal batteries.
Entirely depends on your budget - but at the very least something with Force Feedback, like the Logitech g29 with shifter - that's a very common setup. $200-450 is the figure you'd be looking at - depending on if what you want is on sale. A bit cheaper if you don't want a shifter and want to use the paddle shifters behind the wheels.
I chose one a little higher priced, the Thrustmaster T300RS GT edition (3 pedal setup not the cheaper 2 pedal one without the clutch) as well as the TH8A shifter. I got the wheel on sale, full price on shifter. https://i.imgur.com/Y8Gg5oO.jpg
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300-RS-Racing-Wheel-PlayStation/dp/B01M1L2NRL?th=1 $388 + https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-PC-PS3-PS4-Xbox-One/dp/B005L0Z2BQ $149
These wheels are much more than toys. You can feel the wheels on the road, traction loss, how much torque the cars have, if you slam into a wall the wheels can damn near rip your hands off (you can change the % of feedback to lower it). It makes the experience in VR feel super real. I'd say a wheel carries as much importance in VR racing as the headset does.
The craziest feeling I've gotten so far as just sitting at the start of a race idling in a '66 Mustang. The entire hood of this car is shaking back and forth like Dom's muscle cars in Fast and the Furious.....and the WHEEL is shaking left and right with the car exactly how you would expect something with that much power to. That thing was like 100% torque and it felt amazing.
Even if it takes some saving, I highly recommend one of them - although I would definitely wait until Black Friday to get $100 ish off of either one you choose. The sale prices for these are quite tolerable when they occur.
A stand for the wheel is much nicer than a table for mounting, but they can be pricey as well. From $100 and up. My Apiga AP2 stand was $280 but worth every penny to not have a bar in between your legs. Only $240 now and supports most wheels. https://www.amazon.com/APIGA-Foldable-Racing-Simulator-gearshift-ALL/dp/B00XBPYUIY
From what I've seen/read, the Thrustmaster TS-PC is overpriced by $100 or so at the moment.
For c. $1000 I'd probaby get:
ProtoSimTech PT-1 Pedals
Thrustmaster TH8A Shifter
But you say you don't want a T300 (I've got one, it's amazing) so... I guess the nearest alternative would probably be the Fanatec CSL Elite, but I've got no experience with it, so someone else would have to chime in.
For me, if not going for the T300, I'd probably want to jump up to either the Fanatec CSW V2 or an AccuForce (or more likely an OSW).
And this USB adapter plugs into it to charge your phone and such. www.amazon.com/dp/B00DJ5KEF4?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
I choose to keep the battery part separate. If that's what you want, here's what I got.
Battery Tender 081-0069-8... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0041CDPQO?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Battery Tender 081-0069-6... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NCOKZQ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
I use one of these
Conncted to one of these
Get a small 12v-usb adapter and you can charge most small electronics.
The whole set up cost me under 25$ to make and I can charge most small electronics, my GPS, and the SAE cable lets me run my battery tender during the winter without removing any fairings. The only thing I wish I had done differently was put them all to a relay for fuse block, but they all have inline fuses so I'm not terribly concerned about it.
I drive cab and our owner changed the rule for that, I'm sure you already have way to much stuff, but these are the bomb.
Worth every penny.
This is the stuff used in GoPro mounts and you can find it at any auto parts store or Home Depot - maybe even Wal-Mart.
It held my GoPro onto the side of my bike doing 180 down the back straight of COTA so I would think it'll hold some LED strips on, plus it doesn't leave a nasty residue when you remove it with some rubbing alcohol and dental floss.
> Portable jump packs will inevitably stop working after a year or two
I got [one of these monsters] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002X6VXL4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) back in 2015 and it's showing no signs of slowing down.
I used to have a Firebird with constant electrical problems and so I've used it to start that car easily a hundred times.
I'd say the T150 is your best bet. I'm not sure if you're in the US or how the price would change depending on region, but the T150 Pro is on sale for $220. Comes with the T3PA pedals instead of the regular two-pedal board, it's great if you plan on using the TH8A shifter with your wheel. If not, the regular T150 and a DIY brake mod should do the job just nicely.
Cheap, or expensive, is relative. What budget do you have to work with? Basically, I would say in total for the rig, around $700-800 can get you something pretty decent, then you're looking for the actual console/PC and the games themselves as an additional price.
For a fairly cheap, but still best bang-for-buck rig, I would recommend:
All in all this comes down to $885 as of right now, if you want to save a little bit you could go for the original T300 GT Edition instead and it'll be $817.
The Simetik K2 is by far the best rig you can get in that pricebracket, but if you must save some more either skip the shifter for now or get a Playseat Challenge, it isn't the sturdiest but again, I do not recommend getting a rig with the pole in between your legs, I would personally rather play at a desk and an office chair than that, as it, at least for me, makes it really hard to heel-and-toe, and I love racing old DTM and GT cars with manual gearboxes and couldn't do without that.
Endless Breeze Stand alone Fan
55 ah battery
12V Plug Socket with Eyelet Terminal
12V Male to Male Outlet Charger Cord
Window Vent Visors for ventilation....
Dangerous as is, the battery needs a large main fuse and a manual disconnect switch
Your inverter and fridge aren't fused.
10 gauge wire is not enough to run a fridge and an inverter I would suspect. Also, you might want to run the fridge and inverter on its own, proportionally sized fuse; that way the fuses don't have to be so massive, requiring less potential sparks and fire to blow the fuses. As it is, there's no fuse, and the inverter and fridge share the same cable; the most load hungry devices. That means the cable needs to be double thick from the battery to a bus bar, to the fridge and inverter. Otherwise you will have considerable voltage drop or possibly even melt your wires and cause a fire.
Same thing for the solar charge controller. According to this chart: http://www.affordable-solar.com/solar-tools/wire-sizing-charts/ you can only go 3.5 feet before you get more than 2% voltage drop with 10awg and 30amps - and it says that no more than 2% is acceptable. This might help: https://www.scribd.com/document/334383567/Solar-Setup-by-sprinterpirate
Also I see no battery/amp meter. This is limited to 100a but you get the idea: https://www.amazon.com/bayite-6-5-100V-Display-Multimeter-Voltmeter/dp/B013PKYILS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495073407&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=battery+meter
And brokedown is correct, you can't just leave different types of batteries always connected whenever the engine is on. You need to disconnect it either with a programmed ACR or manually.
Can you do the vehicle jump start ones too?
I bought this one because it can also charge a phone and it was able to start my completely dead F350 work truck, but I’m sure I over paid haha.
I swear by the one I have but I always tell people make sure the one you buy has enough juice for your vehicle. I had this one and it was OK for a 4cyl and "struggled" a little on bigger batteries, it never once didnt get me going though. I really want this one as its got more amps to kick over bigger cars faster.
This is the polar opposite of SMD, but I thought I'd share my solution...
While I love DIY, smoke detectors are important. I wanted to interface with my home system but without compromising the integrity of the system.
Get a 120v first alert.
First Alert SA521CN Wireless Interconnected Hardwired Photoelectric Smoke Alarm with Battery Backup https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EVO9D4
Get the smart relay interconnect.
BRK RM4 Smart Relay for First Alert https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0039PF21U
This includes schematic for wiring to the detector and the color codes for NO/NC relay connection.
~~Get an optocoupler or isolation relay. Mains Voltage! The output of the RM4 is 120V.
Enclosed AC/DC Power Relay with Protection & De-Bounce. Screw Terminals. 120V Trigger Input. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017743I7S
The RM4 output powers the relay. The screw terminals connect to the 8266.~~
Get a Esp8266; Flash tasmota firmware. Configure for switch and mqtt. Wire it up.
First Alert is now part of the matrix.
Quick update: Did not need the second relay/optocoupler. The BRK RM4 is an isolated relay. Their docs did not make that perfectly clear so I assumed worst case w/o testing it.
If you end up with a lesser expensive connector, you can also squeeze a glob of dielectric grease into both sides before connecting. It goes a long way to keeping out moisture and keeping the contacts from developing corrosion or any kind of resistive film.
Most grease like the one you have is NOT dielectric - ie it still conducts electricity. So if your PCB comes into contact with the grease while it is touching anything you will have a short. Here's what you need - https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=permatex+dielectric+grease&qid=1567174237&s=automotive&sr=1-1
You can also pick up cheap dielectric grease at any auto store for cheap.
Any dielectric grease or white grease should do the trick. Plus you can find it in almost any home improvement or auto parts store.
Sure thing! I used this case, this plate, this foam, switches are a combination of this and this, I used genuine Cherry stabilizers from here, lubed the switches with a mix from Mehkee as well, lubed my stabilizers with this, and used this keycap set.
That should just about cover it. :)
If anybody is looking for a cheap and effective cube lubricant you can buy in local stores, dielectric grease is working fantastic for me. I always have some around for working on cars anyway. It's essentially pure silicone (PDMS), safe to use on plastic and rubber etc. A little bit goes a long way.
starters ain’t too bad. could be something as easy as having a dead battery. cranking amps are a thing. take the battery out and take it to a auto shop to get load tested. that’s a decent starting place
Edit - or better yet buy a battery tender and give it a charge. If it sounds like its trying to turn over or at least "clicks" then you need a new battery.
Battery Tender 021-0123 Battery Tender Junior 12V, 0.75A Battery Charger
Battery Tender Junior
This is what I use
Definitely get a battery tender for when you don't ride it for awhile.
And yeah, the connections the tender comes with look like little alligator clamps, so I can't imagine how you'd do it with a regular set of cables.
Get the battery tender, clean the carbs, turn up the choke, and go again! God my next bike will be fuel injected!
I use this guy. Works well.
Horn + Battery + Switch = Horn on Bike
Hell, you could fit all that into cargo pants and be a pedestrian honking at cars.
Or on kickstarter.
You can also look into Hella supertones.
i would (and have used) one of these 'add a fuse'
dont just cram a wire behind a fuse
You can get license plate cameras for less than $15, and a head unit with Bluetooth, DVD player, and SD card reader for under $100. Granted, you get what you pay for, but I bought this exact combo nearly two years ago for a 92 Honda and it's served me well enough. Has two video outs so I added a 7" monitor. You can get an add-a-fuse kit to tie in to the reverse lights fuse, so you don't even need to mess with the wiring back near the reverse lights, so no permanent alterations to the car.
This is a good one. Definitely worth the price. I've rarely had issues with these. They're currently on sale on Amazon as well.
Would recommend getting a GK61 from banggood, either with a plastic or aluminium case: https://www.banggood.com/Geek-Customized-GK61-Hot-Swappable-60-RGB-Keyboard-Customized-Kit-PCB-Mounting-Plate-Case-p-1389481.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN (plastic ver.)
You could probably use any MX stem keycaps, but if you don't have any laying at home, I'd personally buy these: https://www.banggood.com/61-Key-ANSI-Layout-OEM-Profile-PBT-Thick-Keycaps-for-GH60-60-Mechanical-Keyboard-p-1163283.html?rmmds=detail-top-buytogether-auto&cur_warehouse=UK
Then a switch of your choice; for your budget, I'd recommend these switches:
For tactile, MX Browns
For linear, MX Reds, MX Blacks
For clicky: MX Blues, Kailh Box Navy, Jade
Now, to get the best bang for your buck and a great typing experience from your keyboard, I'd recommend lubing your switches and clipping and lubing your stabs.
If you want to know how to lube your switches and mod your stabilizers, I'd recommend watching these videos from a guy named TaehaTypes, an experienced custom keyboard builder: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cD5Zj-ZgMLA https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qSgPKPoFo2k
If you would want to lube your switches and mod your stabs, you'd probably want to buy lube, dielectric grease and teflon grease.
There are many lube options, but I recommend this one for a beginner like you: https://switchmod.net/products/tribosys-3204, or if you believe you are able to apply lube consistently and are using linear switches, you could buy this one: https://switchmod.net/products/krytox-gpl-205-grade-0
I think that's about all, if you have any more questions, feel free to ask me!
Baking soda + water are great for clean dirty car battery terminals.
Disconnect the negative battery cable, then disconnect the positive cable.
Make a slightly watery mixture of baking soda and water (filtered or distilled is recommend), and carefully pour the mixture onto the battery terminals; Be careful not to let the water touch both terminals.
Using an old toothbrush or wire brush, scrub the corrosion off the terminals, then rinse with filtered or distilled water.
With your terminals nice and clean, repeat the process on your battery cable connectors (it might be easier to soak the connectors in a baking soda solution instead of trying to pour it).
apply either battery terminal protector, Dielectric Grease, or a thin layer of [protroleum jelly] (http://www.amazon.com/Vaseline-100%25-Petroleum-Jelly-Ounce/dp/B007E62538/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1374477009&amp;sr=1-2-catcorr&amp;keywords=petroleum+jelly) to the terminals of the battery.
Reconnect your positive terminal, then reconnect your negative terminal and you're all set!
Sorry for the potato quality, but this was my very first build and it was an enjoyable experience! Although lubing the switches was painful without a special tool and I had to use a small flat head screw driver, I would rate the experience as a 5/7 would build again.
Case: TOFU acrylic frosted 60% case
Plate: CNC'D ALUMINUM PLATE - blue color
PCB: 1UP RGB 60% (Hot Swap Edition)
Stabilizers: PCB stabilizers black color - 2U*4 6.25U*1 (lubed with Permatex 81150 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease)
Switches: *68 - gateron black (lubed with Krytox 205)
Keycaps: Black 108 Key Cherry Profile PBT Double Shot Side-lit
I am very pleased with how it turned out and already thinking about what to build next lol
I believe that board uses costar stabs, which are notorious for having really loud spacebar rattle (actually any kind of modifier key that is longer than 2u). You can try taking off the spacebar to confirm if it is.
If it is costar, then try taking the wire out and using dielectric grease to dampen the rattle. Just dip the ends of the wire into the grease.
You can get rid of some of the pinging with some dielectric grease like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MVkeAbRDF5CCV
I'm no expert, but I think some people use dielectric grease, like this
This is widely recommended and available in almost every auto parts store
Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 3 oz. Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-dtxzbXZT665N
This makes a really good super thick lube for stabs, you'll just wanna brush the wire, stem, the part the stem rubs against and the part the wire clips into. Clip the stabilizers while you're at it too and only use authentic cherry pcb mount stabs. Don't use dielectric grease for anything other than stabs, super thick
The tender and a cigarette lighter attachement
I use this one:
But this one would probably also do the trick:
Should be able to find them at your local auto parts store, or even Walmart or someplace like that.
Battery Tender is the gold standard. Your bike probably has a quick connector somewhere just for it. Plus they're cheap enough, no real reason to go off brand.
I got mine from the Harley dealer, but from what I see this is basically the same thing.
Get a trickle charger, battery tender jr at walmart. Charge overnight, done.
I get Free overnight from Amazon on some things. Might be worth a shot https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0123-Junior-Charger/dp/B000CITK8S
Try this one, most people don't need the features of the original one posted. The junior covers most needs:
Its < $25
Install and your done.
Battery tender junior.
Tuck a quick connector harness under the seat and you'll be golden.
when you buy a battery tender it will come with a lead for connecting to the battery, as well as a lead that has battery clamps/clips on it for temporary charging.
this "lead" has two wires on one end and a fitting like the USB adapter in /u/afeagle1021's post (except it is the MIRROR IMAGE of that fitting). The two wires will go on your battery terminals (aka posts) via loops installed on their ends that go around the battery terminal screws, where you bike's electrical system makes it's contact with the battery.
there is an indicator for polarity on at least one of the wires, make sure it is attached to the corresponding battery terminal. then you plug your bike into the tender overnight and plug the usb adapter in when you need to power your phone when you are riding.
you might need to get creative about how you run your usb cable if you want it secured and out of the way.
Link to lead sold without tender
Link to Battery Tender Jr.
Charge the battery. Then start the bike. Get a volt meter and measure the battery. Does it read 13.6/14? Then your stator is working. If its reading below 12.2/12ish then no its not.
Any cheap multi-meter like this will do.
To make it easier to check You may as well buy a battery tender if you haven't already. Run the lead somewhere (I ran it under my passenger seat so I can plug in a USB adapter to charge my phone while I ride. But then you can meter off that in a pinch also. Not to mention it will slowly trickle charge you battery (It won't be fast by any means, but I've done it myself after this past winter, as my shed has no close by power and I didn't have time to bring my battery inside)
If its showing good when running you have a power draw somewhere. keep the meter connected while the bike is off. then pull one fuse at a time until it appears the load goes away(aka the voltage stays the same for a while without it draining down. Especially if its dead in 4 minutes you should be able to see it quickly). You may have a short in your lights. That's normally where I would expect it.
This is what I use. Works like a charm.
On the small-ass batteries you're going to find on ATVs, it doesn't matter. I use a Battery Tender Jr. on my Recon 250. Works like a charm.
Also i dont know how i forgot hella supertones. they look good, and make you safer because they are loud
for your headlights make sure to find a guide specifically for the hawkeye (60-07 models)
Similar thing happened to me today, but going from right to left approaching a stoplight. I think they were trying to make their way to the open "first vehicle" spot at the light in my lane that i was coming up to. Thank god i had these horns
I would assume that you could get a set of Hella Supertones in Europe. They are loud and dissonant.
I highly recommend the Hella Super Tones
Just gonna leave this here for OP
The Scion FR-S has the same issue, sounds like a clown car. It's like, "I'M SO MAD," meep. So I bought some Hella Supertones and everything was right with the world again, I could be angry and actually HONK at people.
I had the front bumper off to install an oil cooler anyway so install was relatively simple and I believe you can do it by just removing the undertray and not the whole bumper, I have no idea what you would have to do for your Matrix though. The horns came with a relay but the FR-S already has one so I didn't use it, not sure about the Matrix, you'll have to Google that. For the low tone I just spliced in to the 2 cables going to the stock horn and the high tone had a single cable which I spliced in to for a live source and ran a cable from the mounting bolt for ground.
Google's your friend, you might even be able to buy a wiring harness to ease things along. I'm a dumbass and managed this pretty easily, good luck :).
Check last week's thread on this. In short, read the reviews on Amazon. They are not good. I would stay away.
Second, do not waste your money on a lithium jump starter. Again, check the reviews - don't just look at the star rating, but read them. They fail quickly and often dangerously. NOCOs are especially notorious for the charging circuitry blowing itself up and not working anymore only a few months after purchase. And that's the leading brand for the market... you want to carry a Chinese Taobao special lithium battery in your trunk all the time?
Finally, to answer your question, if the car's battery is totally dead, no, probably not reliably. The CVPI's starter draws around 200 amps. This battery will not be able to supply that reliably. The 600 peak amp rating is total marketing wank and means basically nothing. The 300 starting amp rating is only for 32° F or above for 5 seconds when the battery is brand new and fully charged. Your typical car battery is rated in cold cranking amps, which is measured at 0° F for 30 seconds. A CVPI's starter may only draw 200 amps, but most car batteries you find for the CVPI will be 500-1000 cold cranking amps.
I would look at one of these. Even the higher-spec Stanley units have bad reviews across the board.
out of all the camping fests ive went to over the years, forest is the most on-top of their porter poties. i schedule my bowl-movements with the clean-up crew (last year, 8am and then 5pm. judge me) at camp and in the forest, there are some nicer porter potties near sherwood court that had AC and lights, but in the venue only/VIP. as for electricity, get a portable external like [this] (https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000JFJLP6/ref=psdc_318336011_t1_B000JFHNQA) and for lights, just make sure it runs on AA batteries, such as [this] (https://smile.amazon.com/Outdoor-Battery-Operated-dimmable-Waterproof/dp/B01AWG1SLG/ref=sr_1_4?s=home-garden&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494260079&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=battery+powered+lights). remember, it is only 4 days so you'll be able to take as many hot showers/eat as much good food you want after the fact <3
My 2000 Dakota ate batteries like they were fucking candy at Halloween. I could count on replacing it every three years. But, that was the only thing that ever went wrong in 15 years of ownership (and one heater core at 150,000 miles). Other than regular maintenance I had no expenses. Wish I hadn't upgraded.
As far as actual spare parts.... fuses. As far as important travel stuff, well all the normal goodies plus I like to carry one of those portable battery jump packs for cars. But I spent $$$ on a decent one, not the crap at Walmart.
plus this: https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0158-Disconnect-Smartphone/dp/B00DJ5KEF4
The first one has a number of accessories you can connect from a battery charger to heated clothing. The second is a usb adapter.
I've been very happy with the Battery Tender brand. I have a friend who uses this on his boat (it's designed not to overchage).
We use a traditional (plug in) tender on my wife's car. A fairly common setup is to permanently connect the terminals to the battery and then run the leads somewhere more convenient, like out the grill or fender. It makes connecting/disconnecting a lot more convenient.
Most people can manage to install the battery tender pigtails on their own.
Yes you can. To make it easier by negating the need to pull off the seat or panels to get to the battery, get yourself one of these:
I've had this for over a year and it works great
If you buy a battery tender it comes with one of these that the usb thingy hooks right up to. I just have it hanging out the side of my bike and I can easily tuck it up under the fairings.
Battery Tender makes a quick disconnect plug. I have one on my bike that I use to connect the tender. You screw it onto the battery terminals. I also have a USB plug that I can connect to it and charge phones, cameras, whatever.
Buy one of these so next time you can restart it yourself and not need anyone to jump your car. I love mine.
Can't help you now, but buy one of these and keep it in your trunk and you won't have to worry about needing someone else to jump you in the future.
3M 03614 Scotch-Mount 1/2" x 15' Molding Tape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002JOVUO0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_T4OuzbQ28WMT9
This should work. Beware it has a little thickness to it. Might be a bit overkill
This, it's like tape. www.amazon.com/3M-03614-Scotch-Mount-Molding-Tape/dp/B002JOVUO0/ref=pd_sim_263_1open_in_new
Jump starter with compressor. I have one made by Stanley (not the below linked one though, they don't make mine anymore.)
Actually someone did. Almost every university security has a jump-start/air pump combo unit. They regularly have to jumpstart peoples cars
This one is by the same company, longer and even cheaper@
I just ordered this and I ordered a 12' extension too (I have been using an extension cord)
I recommend getting leads with quick connect, so you can attach a battery tender if need be.
I also have a 12V/120V to USB adapter with USB cables under my seat so I always have a way to charge my phone on overnight trips.
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-8-Cigarette-Disconnect/dp/B0041CDPQO
and then the leads in the add on items.
Or you can get something like this and charge your phone. I tested to make sure I was getting 12v first with my ride
[Edit] its called a SAE plug
I also have an AirSense 10 Autoset. The power "brick" provided with the unit is a conventional 120-240 VAC to DC converter. With the Ego Lawn Mower and Inverter you're converting electricity from DC to AC to DC. There will be substantial power-to-heat losses due to less-than-optimum efficiency of the power conversion.
Additionally, the AC output of the Ego Inverter (see manual, page 9) is limited to 150 Watts. At 120 Volts, this means that the current maximum it allows is 1.25 Amp. The maximum current demand that the AirSense 10 requires is 1.50 Amp. This is why the inverter's overheat is being triggered and it cuts power to your APAP; too much current is being demanded by the unit for the inverter's circuitry to handle.
I recommend following Resmed's Battery Guide using stand-alone, deep-cycle batteries.
I take my AirSense 10 camping and I recently purchased the following items, totaling to $205.56
12V 35AH batteries ship factory-charged. If used with tube heating and humidification switched off, and maximum IPAP pressure of 16 cm H2O then a single battery will last you for two 8-hour nights. See Page 7 of Resmed's Battery Guide for details of power consumption if using any of the heat settings.
I hope this helps. Feel free to ask me questions.
Portable battery charger / air compressor. I was actually just thinking about this yesterday when I was inflating these giant plastic bowling pins for the end of a slip and slide. I've used this thing so many times its probably the coolest gift ever. I use it for camping to charge the phones, run the coffee pot, run a fan in the tent. I've used it to jumpstart my car countless times. Now that I have a one year old I use it to inflate all his toys and stroller.
This is the one.
Other than that its nice when someone gets me disc golf or fishing stuff as those are my two main hobbies.
A car battery or batteries wired up and connected to a power inverter is likely your best/cheapest bet.
You might make do with one of those 'emergency jump start' type boxes similar to this. The 5 hour time requirement might be longer than you're really going to get off a single battery, even at your load, so that'd be the interesting variable to solve.
Is there any possibility of running a vehicle nearby or just a small generator instead? A very tiny generator to keep your battery charged or as direct power would let you get this done (with added noise/exhaust) for sure. Quiet ones are pricey, though, as you can see.
You can go with a cheaper jumper or a battery in a vented battery box and a 12 female with terminal connectors just monitor the voltage carefully.
Get something like this, hook it up from the main battery to the aux battery, then hook the aux battery to the inverter.
Remember to fuse or have a circuit breaker as close to the battery as possible, and run proper gauge wire.
/u/alsenan This isn't true, but the answer is unfortunately not great. The better one is made by Thrustmaster at $150:
The 3 pedal is the best part of these wheels, and a lot of people continue to use them even after upgrading to Fanatec/TT. The Logitech shifter is sold separately now, and imo it's not worth the $60 they charge for it--save up for better quality. G25/27 wheels used to be a great value because they included 3 pedals + shifter for around $250-300 in an era when higher tier belt drive Thrustmaster wheels were around $500 just for the wheel and pedals.
A good shifter is going to cost you 100-150, so will a good set of pedals. But you should own a basic wheel like the TT TX for a few months to decide if you use it enough to warrant investing in higher end pedals/shifter. A lot of people buy these things and they just end up sitting in a closet being used a few times a year (if that).
) on amazon is $160. It comes with pedals. But honestly after a month I upgraded to much better pedals and then bought a shifter ended up costing me over $400 by the end of it all lol. You can get away with just the wheel and default pedals though.
> Does the wheel come with transmission stick?
I wouldn't call it a transmission stick. This is my wheel, wich is on the cheap side. It has a stick but is just like two buttons you can push with it. More expensive wheels let you connect better sticks: https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-TH8A-Add-Gearbox-Shifter-Xbox/dp/B005L0Z2BQ/
or if you have money to burn you can buy something like this
You can buy lt from amazon or any good game retailer.
If you want it for the xbox one make sure you get the TH8A shifter. There's another shifter which doesn't I nearly made the mistake.
You have to update the firmware on this before it works. Yep this shifter has its own firmware, So does the wheel. Easy enough to update unplug both and plug them into a pc and download updates
This, SAE (battery tender plug) to USB charger:
$10 and may just save your ass if your phone dies out on the road and you need help, or to look up directions, etc....
Appears to be a good design. The only spot I could see water being a problem would be the the 2-pole connection, but you do not have to use that or could hide the connection in the battery compartment. But for $40 I would attempt to make this myself. Just make sure you have an inline fuse. Or look at this and it even has USB. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FR2JF0W/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_x5XEub01RE0HP. If you are looking for just USB there is this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DJ5KEF4/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_A8XEub0EXCW4G
Battery SAE Connector $6
SEA connection that has 4 plugs. If I need to hook up a battery charger or air compressor it's nice.
USB Power $10 I used one for the phone itself and one for the hub, however you only need one. I just didnt not want the amplifier taking power away from charging the phone. Redundancy is nice too. Extra USB ports for whatever.
USB Hub $7 For all the gadgets.
USB Phone Power Cable $5 This is the real weak point in the setup. I've gone through a lot of these. monoprice.com is good for really cheap cords.
[Phone Audio output(between phone and amplifier)] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F9KUF7O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1)
$7 Quality cord here. Purchased for the right angle plug.
[Amplifier]( http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HJWWW8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 $28
Amplifier output connection: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00007FGU7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) $30 After not being able to hear very well with no amplifier, this greatly improved the experience.
Helmet coil cord $5 With this cord you never know the cord is there until you get off the bike and it will break away.
Helmet speakers: $10 I found a great deal on ebay for some "hoodie" speakers and I epoxied them in the helmet. You could always use this setup with earbuds too, but I was never fond of getting them pulled out while riding.
Phone mount $35 I would trust it will an $800 phone.
Total Cost w/ Phone Mount: $ 115
Seems pretty normal to me, I have one on my bike. It shares the hookups for my battery tender but it's the same idea.
I don't see why it would drain the battery unless you have a phone plugged into it.
This plus a tender lead will take care of that.
If your heart isn't set on the 2 gallon tank, try a 3 gallon. It would look good and fill in that gap between the seat and tank. I do 120+ miles on my 48 weekly.
Since everyone is mentioning phones, I use one of these when my phone dies. It will let you charge your phone off of the battery tender connector.
What kind of range do you want? 12V battery + adapter + Car FM adapter. Plug in your phone and you can transmit whatever audio you play. Perfectly legal under FCC Part 15 rules.
Edit: fix link
You start with one of these:
Then your second battery has a socket to plug in things. Use the double headed cable to connect your battery to the vehicle cigarette lighter.
The vehicle cigarette lighter wire is small, too much resistance, not a good way to charge.
Any set of jumper cables will do. The thicker the better(more expensive) I would get at least 6ga. The longer the better 12’ minimum, try to get 16’ or longer. That makes it easier to position the “donor” car.
As far as jumping goes, it’s pretty straight forward. Always double check that it is positive to positive and negative to negative(I have seen cars where the colors are reversed). Always leave the donor car running while trying to jump the other car.
If the jump doesn’t work the first time, double check that there is a good connection between the cable and battery terminals, clean any dirt or corrosion off. If it still doesn’t work, have someone rev the engine of the donor car to 3-4k and hold it there while tying to start the other car. Also do this if the donor car has a smaller engine than the car being jumped.
Jump boxes like these are really handy to and eliminate the need for a second car to jump you. Some also have built in air compressors too to air up tires.
I am of the firm belief that everyone should have something like this in their trunk so you don't have to do that. I've had mine for almost 4 years and never even used it on my own car but I've used it to help 3 other people.
EDIT: this is the one I have and it not only charges batteries but has an outlet, USB port, air compressor, and (good enough) LED flashlight.
I can't recommend this one enough:
I bought it on a whim when it was on clearance at Walmart and have since filled the tire of an elderly couple at the grocery store, jumped off my boyfriends truck, and topped off all the tires in my jeep. It holds a charge well, but also comes with a cigarette lighter adapter in case the battery dies.
Nice work, this is like a bigger, better version of my light with 1' Q strips and a mix of spectrum. I also oversized mine some, 150 watts total in a 2'x2', and have it so I can turn on and off each group. I'm using just regular switches for the groups and I have to adjust the pot manually to keep the power where I wanted it using one of these to measure. Did you go a more advanced route? I'm working on upgrading and controlling everything via an arduino and using relays to turn the light groups on/off and for autowatering and a digital potentiometer for the % power.
I finished one grow with my light at full power in flower, but ~40 watts are side lighting, 10 watts per corner. My light is only around 10"-12" from the tops, and the side lights are only a few inches away. I didn't see any big advantage to the side light, I'm not sure if I'm going to keep them, but I'm using them again this grow. Maybe I'll move 2 up top and keep 2 low and see what the different sides look like.
I'm curious to try to learn more about if this is wasted energy and if so, how to tell
You're most welcome! I bought the following:
Solar Panel Connectors
200ah AMG Battery
300W Pure Sine Wave Inverter
Dometic 35 Fridge
I bought all these items with research into my solar needs and following the advice from here in the vandwelling subreddit and also information I gathered from Amazon. I am probably doing a bit of overkill on my solar setup but I thankfully have the money to do it and don't want to mess with adding anything later.
I will have to do research myself on how to combine the four panels into the battery but that will be a few weeks away so I haven't done much in that area. I do plan to buy 10GA wire from Lowes and use the crimping tool and connectors to form my own wiring harness so it will be clean looking. \
EDIT: Adding info.
Ran an electrical system in my Subaru with an auxiliary battery charged off the alternator.
80 Amp isolator relay (switches charging on while car is running):
100AH 12V AGM battery: https://www.amazon.com/Universal-UB121000-45978-100AH-Cycle-Battery/dp/B00S1RT58C
2Ga Wire running the length from the Relay in the engine bay to the battery.
Kinda Extra things:
Kill Switch: https://www.amazon.com/Ampper-Battery-Switch-12-Disconnect/dp/B07413JWLD
100A inline Fuse
Multimeter (read current voltage, Amperage, etc): www.amazon.com/bayite-6-5-100V-Display-Multimeter-Voltmeter/dp/B013PKYILS/
I would not recommend a full size battery, I work in an autoparts store and see brand new ones off the shelf dead. They will also loose charge overtime. Instead I would recommend a portable jump pack. I have one and used it twice to jump start a car and it still had full battery. The one I have also has dual lights on it with various functions and a usb power port. Its a little cheaper than a fullsized car battery and won’t go bad after a few years sitting.
NOCO Genius Boost Plus GB40 1000 Amp 12V UltraSafe Lithium Jump Starter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015TKUPIC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7UfIAb057BART
Jumper cables as well, because its a good idea to have extra options in case you need to jump or be jumped
Tow strap, only get this if you have an idea as to what you are doing/experience
Tow hook/tow hitch
Mini cheap chinese tire inflator (got it for free, but it does work)
For long trips you can consider bring some oil and a few qts of trans fluid, just make sure you can easily add the trans fluid, may need a funnel or may be a sealed pan.
Water, deerpark makes these fantastic durable 1 gallon bottles I see go on sale for 10 for $10
Gurantee no one will tell you this, but it got me unstuck in the middle of west virginia on a freezing night and has worked getting friends out. That would be 2x4s and a handsaw, or just some precut 2x4’s. I’ve used these to give a 05 F250 traction in mud, I also used a bunch of wood to get myself unstuck from a ditch I backed into. Was able to build the bottom up with wood and gas it quickly
in reverse. Thank god for that one.
Flashlights, even just some cheap junk will work.
If its cold enough toss a cold weather sleeping back in the trunk.
If you can carry a gun inside I suggest looking into that.
People will mention the typical clothes/food
That plugs into a portable battery jump box. They're really handy to keep in your vehicle.
> Now I need to find one that can handle jump starting my ls3.
I have this one. Was able to jumpstart a 4.6l V8 with a completely dead battery several times and a SC'd 5.4L v8
I wish I could help you but I'm in a different state at the moment. :/
I recommend on top of jumper cables you purchase a battery jump starter. Amazon
I bought the NOCO GB40 from Princess Auto last winter, was around $180 I think but cheaper online. You can choose the volts/amps too and that changes the price, tbh I can't remember the recommended minimum. Used it 3 or 4 times last winter when we had that brutal -30/-40 week at the beginning of Feb and it was so much easier than 2 car boosting.
The clips are very short (since it only plugs into one car) and detachable for easier storage, and the battery itself is USB rechargeable. Also, if you put the wrong clips on the wrong nodes of your car battery, it won't fuck it up. You'll get an error light on the NOCO and it won't charge until you switch them around. For someone like me who is not mechanically inclined and can never remember which cable goes where, it's a god send.
e: I have the 12V, 1000 AMP version
Get a little tank bag:
My bike had a battery tender cord on it when I bought it, so I added this:
Works just fine.
This is also handy:
Add this cord for compactness:
Nah op, just buy a deep cycle battery and isolator relay to charge it off your engine. Then you can silently charge things at night etc.
12V Plug Socket with Eyelet Terminal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G8WLW2Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wa9EybWJA9XPG
And any usb cigarette adapter for charging your devices off the battery.
As it sounds like you will be in cold weather here is a bonus. It seems pricey but is so effective. Temperature settings and everything.
DC12V Electric VACUUM INSULATED kettle boil cup https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H4OYITE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Ac9EybYMT5M1F
I have a charge controller, but the door is directly attached to the battery terminals. As for the camera, I used the advice from this group and bought a car charger with USB ports plugged into this:
I had to strip the wires and crimp different terminals on them since they didn’t fit on the battery bolt.
You could also get a 12v socket - http://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GC018-Socket-Eyelet-Terminal/dp/B00G8WLW2Y/ for instance - tap it off your existing 12v socket fuse with an add-a-fuse - http://www.amazon.com/Pico-0956PT-Blade--Circuit-Holder/dp/B001QRSBW0/ - and hide it all in the dash somewhere. That way you have no permanent mods.
I built this setup recently:
A few other odds and ends brings it close to $400 total.
The charger controller is overkill for the one panel, and you don't need a lithium battery necessarily, but you also have to be careful what lead acid you get as most are not built for deep cycling. You can probably get a much larger capacity solar or marine deep cycle lead acid for what I paid.
Any bike you want.
This is the meter, hookup is pretty easy. bayite DC 6.5-100V 0-100A LCD Display Digital Current Voltage Power Energy Meter Multimeter Ammeter Voltmeter with 100A Current Shunt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013PKYILS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_Ou3gAb7RH4KPW
I made a Boombox out of a pair of coaxials I had laying around
I have a surplus of m12 tool batteries as well as some coaxials laying around I figured I’d make a portable speaker
With solar panels most output well over 18 volts. Which is fine for that amplifier but not for the battery. With a buck converter it takes it down to a more useable voltage for the lithium batteries.
If you wanted to run something like this on grid power you would need something like this I had planned on getting a 12 volt power supply like the one here later for home use but since with one 9AH lithium battery I have well over 12 hours of listening before the battery needs to be recharged/ swapped out.
Edit: also using this to monitor solar output
Ac meter: bayite AC 80-260V 100A BYT-VAEM-034 Digital Current Voltage Power Energy Analyzer Meter Ammeter Voltmeter with Open-close Current Transformer Split Core CT https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D8G9GPW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_v2hPzb2TNZDNP
Dc meter: bayite DC 6.5-100V 0-100A LCD Display Digital Current Voltage Power Energy Meter Multimeter Ammeter Voltmeter with 100A Current Shunt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013PKYILS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_g3hPzbSXR3EHB
Usually that's the case. But for this specific amp meter it needs to be on the ground. I tried it the normal way, and it would just give gibberish readings. It's really bizzare.
A bunch of the reviews are complaining about it
I think the ampmeter works by measuring the voltage change over a fixed resistance.
Edit: Just tested. Anything after the shunt isn't measured. There's probably some sort of correcting it does to take into account the load after the shunt. Probably so it doesn't measure itself. I dunno.
Edit 2: it's included wiring diagramhttps://i.imgur.com/uXCRNyY.png
This style of meter is useful.
Just run each component individually to get current draw. Cannot vouch for accuracy but numbers I've measured match product specs, so there's that.
Buy a jump box is a better option. Then you don't have to rely on someone else. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015TKUPIC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tg-IybQ8KYRH5
Won't help you now, but maybe throw this on your Christmas list.
Can personally vouch for this. Get one that you can still use even if it blows out the fuse for your cig lighter. Also, get an additional dedicated jump starter.
I second everything @cynicoblivion said above. If you'll be doing HH in a rural area, make sure your car is in good shape; check fluid levels, tire pressure (including the spare tire), light bulbs, etc, every week. Verify that your car insurance covers towing, or join AAA. And I highly recommend you get something like this, to jump start your car without the need for a 2nd vehicle: https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GB40-UltraSafe-Lithium-Starter/dp/B015TKUPIC/ I used to do HH in a very rural area and would drive 800-1,000 mi per week. My worst fear was to have my car break down in the middle of nowhere... I have since moved to a much more urban area, still doing HH.
I like wheel well covers. Finishes the truck appearance wise and gives good protection to the underside. Not a flashy investment but definitely one I'd make before many others.
Get something like this:
Or get a combo air compressor / battery jumper combo. When you need it, and you will, you'll be thankful.
Here is the mobile version of your link
Had good luck with this
As long as the circuit is closed, does it matter how it got closed? Meaning, you can use any I/O module to complete the circuit and then hook up a Homekit switch to trigger the I/O module to close the circuit.
For instance, if you used something like this and connect one end to your fireplace (and I'm just using this module as an example as I don't know if it is compatible with your fireplace): https://www.amazon.com/Enclosed-AC-Protection-Bounce-Terminals/dp/B017743I7S/
and the other end to a Homekit switch or outlet. That should work, should it not ?
I have a gas fireplace that was controlled by a switch on the wall. The switch was a low voltage switch that essentially just connected two wires together to turn on the fireplace and disconnected them to turn off the fireplace. The electronics that control the fireplace are behind a panel underneath the fireplace, and there is a decent amount of room and a power strip in there. I believe most gas fireplaces controlled by a switch on the wall have a similar setup.
So what I did was plugged in a Lutron Lamp smart plug (https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-PD-3PCL-WH-Assistant/dp/B00KHSXB60/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=lutron+lamp+dimmer&amp;qid=1564055576&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=lutron+lamp+&amp;sr=8-3) to the power strip below the fireplace, and then I plugged in this AC/DC relay to that (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017743I7S?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title). What the relay does is just make a connection between its terminals whenever the outlet it’s plugged into (the Lutron Lamp plug in this case) is turned on. I then spliced the wires going to the switch on the wall and connected them to the relay. Then, the last step was to pair a Lutron Pico remote / switch (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KLAXOE8?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title) to the Lutron lamp plug, and then I replaced the switch on the wall with the Lutron Pico switch. Now I can turn the fireplace off and on from a switch on the wall still, but I can also control the fireplace from HomeKit, Google Home, Alexa, etc. I also set up some rules to automatically turn off the fireplace if it’s been on for 3 hours, and to notify me if it turns on and I’m not home. These are just in case we accidentally hit the button to turn it on while we’re in bed or away or whatever.
It was really easy since there is a 110 outlet under my fireplace. I used the relay below to trigger the switch and a TP-link smart plug. It was simple to hook up.
I lubed my stabs with this, super cheap and it pretty much made my stabs silent.
EDIT: Ripster tested it in his guide so it must be good
Thanks for answering my questions. I guess I need to order 20 more Zilent switches since that's the minimum order.
> Krytox 106
I'm only able to find a bottle on Amazon for $235 bucks. Can you link somewhere that has a smaller amount?
> dielectric grease
Is this the correct product?
In the Nathan Kim stabilizer lube video he uses Permatex 22058 Dielectric grease for Metal on Plastic scenario. I read somewhere on Reddit someone said that he since switched to using Kyrtox 205 in the the whole stabilizer tho.
I found some Permatex 22058 on Amazon UK. Not sure if that's expensive, I think it's roughly how much I paid in US. I do put some Krytox or Tribosys on the plastic on plastic parts tho.
This is good for stabs (not switches) and is usually at places like AutoZone if you want to get it locally and not order online. https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2
This stuff does work but makes dries out rather easily.
I'd push you down the way of this.
Dielectric Grease|Permatex 22058: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2
This is what you should be using as it's meant for electronic purposes. Not all multi-purpose greases are going to work well with switches and it really wouldn't be worth the risk.
It is a non conductive grease that prevent rust, oxidation, dirt, and corrosion. "Permatex Dielectric Tune-Up Grease protects electrical connections and wiring from salt, dirt and corrosion. " this is the one I use https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=dielectric+grease&amp;qid=1572880722&amp;sprefix=diele&amp;sr=8-3 Scotty Kilmer also uses it https://youtu.be/zhl3bLzgq9A . I use it it for the headlights, turn signal, side markers, fog lights, I also use it on the dome map lights, and I put it on 1 fuse blade, and I put some on the battery terminal. I do recommend getting disposable gloves. I wear XL winter gloves. But the disposable is smaller. Read the reviews first. People might might say get one size higher. So next time I will get XXL gloves.
My battery and terminals just looked like that and cleaned it up last weekend.
Take the battery off and use hot water to clean most of the battery up.
Used hot water on my terminals as well.
After that i used a hot water/baking soda mix to neutralize the acid.
Bought a few things off amazon as well:
The dielectric grease should help it from getting moisture and corrosion on it again.
I would put some dielectric grease on all the connectors, it's fast and cheap. It's possible you just have bad connection from grim on them or corrosion over time and the new bulbs touching the contacts on a bit different part. That bad connection could have also made them fail prematurely too.
Can usually find at automotive places for a few bucks. Not sure why so expensive on amazon.ca....
Not that aerosol can. Get that little .33 oz tube with the handy dispensing nozzle.
If you want to splurge get the lifetimex10 tube.
Previous must have r/MechanicalKeyboard toolkit items:
ITEM #3 - clean your dirty keys with denture tabs:
ITEM #2: Contact Cleaner for that inevitable liquid spill:
ITEM #1: A key puller for cleaning and putting some spiffy new keys on your new keyboard:
sure...here you go. finish line comes in the syringe, which makes it easy to apply some to the stabilizer housing so you can brush it. taeha types does a good video using this grease combo.
finish line - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002L5UL92/
permatex - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL8VD2/
Update: After much research and unfruitful trips to Lowes and Walmart, I finally found the right grease. Pure silicone grease but under the name dielectric grease, and at a great price ($5 for 3oz.)
For plastic on plastic ^
For plastic on metal ^
The Permatex isn't a bike lube, but it's fantastic.
I made the same mistake as you in the past. The oil works ok for the plastic-plastic contacts of the stabilizers though. But for lubing the bar, a thicker dialetric grease is ideal
The superlube dialetric grease you linked is probably fine. This is the exact one I use though, as recommended by Nathan Kim https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AL8VD2
I'm not sure about the mod but I've heard that these little batteries don't like sitting for a few weeks/months. I'd swap it out with a new one and then put it on a battery tender if you are going to not ride it for an extended period of time.
It's not going to be the most efficient setup, but it can work. Basically, the biggest loss will be charging the batteries. Think of it like this - the generator is a gas engine spinning a motor that generates dc power. That power is converted to house current (ac) in order to let you plug in to the generator. A battery charger then converts that back to dc and charges the battery - so a portion of the power is lost in both conversions. If the goal is just charging batteries, a motor and an alternator generally cover that purpose better than a full generator.
All that said - your 800w genny, plus a trickle charger, plus a battery, plus an inverter will work out for your as well. The trickle charger works with whatever power the generator has available to charge the battery, and when you're using the power at night from the battery you'll need an inverter to run lights/gear off of the battery.
You'll probably want to charge the bikes directly from the generator too. If they use a 12v battery then you can charge it with the same setup. Charging one battery at a time, and needing several hours to charge each means you'll need to run the generator quite a bit during the day. Bring extra oil, make sure you know how much gas it consumes while running, and be safe with it. Make sure oil/gas don't get on the playa!
I would highly recommend getting something with higher wattage. 800 running is very low. I'd also recommend getting 12v lighting/gear so that an inverter is not necessary. Running 12v lights directly from the battery at night will be much more efficient than using an inverter, because you eliminate the conversion process. The inverter is the most likely piece to malfunction out there due to heat or dust so not needing one at all definitely is preferable.
Take a good long highway cruise to burn off moisture build up in oils.
Pro Tip: a battery maintainer is better for your vehicle (especially the engine) than starting and idling to charge the battery.
If you have a standard/stock battery, the standard Battery Tender will do. Just get the $30-ish dollar name brand one. You have a Panigale. "cheaper" is not in your vocabulary anymore. :)
If you have some kind of ultralight Lithium battery, you might need something different.
they're called 'battery tenders'. Amazon Link
K) I also need a phone mount and how the F do you get a charger or "cigarette lighter" to keep the phone charged for the Waze.
Battery Tender 12 Volt Junior Automatic Battery Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CITK8S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aJygDb3YPNVR9
Battery Tender 081-0158 Quick Disconnect Plug with USB Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DJ5KEF4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PHygDbY6Z9FSG
That gives you a charger and a battery tender.
I have this mounted to the dash extender on my Dyna:
SCOSCHE MAGDMB MagicMount https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I608BJ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lKygDb5V5QAWE
It's been rock solid for years (the tank is higher than the phone so wind doesn't catch it) and it's not mounted to the handlebars where it can distract me or vibrate loose. My post history has pictures but I've never seen a Sportster with a tank mounted dash so you'd have to stick it on the paint.
And this in the windshield of my truck too:
SCOSCHE MAGHDGPS MagicMount https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q69U8YM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aLygDb46TW35Y
For etiquette, I keep just about everything to a quick wave or beep-beep at most. If I happen to see some others, I usually just fall in line with them as far as our paths are the same. I ride in the back of the group and keep about the same amount of space the rest of the group has. If they ride side to side, I get as close as I feel comfortable (and that isn't side by side lol). If they're staggered, I stay staggered too. Stop lights are different. Pull right up next to them and give them a quick head nod or maybe a compliment lol
Would something like this help my cause?
> Also hook up a trickle charger to your battery (these are much better than battery blankets, and not that expensive).
Second that. I want to get this for my wife's car: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CITK8S
To hold the phone, get a RAM mount.
To charge the phone, you need this adapter and an SAE cable running from your battery (The cable with the round terminals in this kit).
I've seen some touring bikes with cup holders but a Camelbak/water bladder would probably be easier to use while riding.
I think that /u/rld14 pretty much covered it. But there are a few things I would add. Some of these may not apply to you, but this thread could be useful to others.
Battery Tender Jr. Or any of the other Battery Tender Chargers.
Well the cheapest option is just to drive the car, like I said before. You can buy a charger in the $50 range at Walmart/Amazon or any of these kinds of places. They're handy to have one around. Something like this: Schumacher.
I also like these small ones, which are basically slow chargers that can be left on indefinitely. Theyre good for when you have a car in storage for months, you just plug this in and leave it on. They are also capable of recharging your battery but itll take about 24 hours: battery tender.
A wall wart is where the transformer is built into the plug, usually a black cube about 2" with the dc wire coming off of it. The idea would be to have the AC to DC happen at the end of the AC line.
Like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LX3AS6/ref=sxbs_sxwds-rbp2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_p=2898770402&amp;pd_rd_wg=jcBEg&amp;pf_rd_r=R31605ND3DRXBXHCFY0C&amp;pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-bottom-slot&amp;pf_rd_t=301&amp;pd_rd_i=B004LX3AS6&amp;pd_rd_w=JJTWW&amp;pf_rd_i=battery+tender&amp;pd_rd_r=JABMBT6QPDBKXR44DGY0&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491332230&amp;sr=2 or this: https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0123-lightweight-automatic/dp/B000CITK8S/ref=pd_sbs_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B000CITK8S&amp;pd_rd_r=DE87QSEWNR2XHEWDTBQQ&amp;pd_rd_w=AtVc4&amp;pd_rd_wg=wduLj&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=DE87QSEWNR2XHEWDTBQQ
You can always use a bigger wire than required to carry current, the length might be an issue but the currents are so low so it wouldn't be a concern esp. with the bigger wire, as long as you can make the connectors work.
Here are the connectors I was picturing. I use them for my RC batteries. You can clip the red and black together. https://www.amazon.com/Anderson-Power-Products-Silver-Contacts/dp/B00BN0WMA2/ref=pd_cp_23_4?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00BN0WMA2&amp;pd_rd_r=2MKMXG57SB6NNP5BP3QG&amp;pd_rd_w=HMJVM&amp;pd_rd_wg=PTBBq&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=2MKMXG57SB6NNP5BP3QG
The optima suggestion isn't going to solve the battery drain issue. Yes, it's a heavier duty battery. But if you keep pouring out 1/2 cup of water out of a jug and only replace it with 1/3 cup of water, you'll eventually run out of water.
Really needs to do a battery tender and get in the habit of plugging it in when they get home. A setup like this would be a good idea. http://s279.photobucket.com/user/NotMoneyGuy/media/IMG_3749_zps1edf0d2c.jpg.html
Have a quick disconnect say dangle through the grill of the car and plug the charger in nightly.
Edit: I like the Battery Tender brand myself.
Or the faster charger:
There are stupidly simple, just plug/connect them to the battery and they're automatic.
What do you mean by a stop? Did it die at a stoplight, or die after you completely turned off the engine when it was parked?
If it's the latter, it's almost definitely a bad battery. Remove the battery, and take it to Autozone (or similar) to have them charge it for free. Otherwise, buy a battery tender that's capable of charging up a dead battery (like this), and charge it up.
I would say for the winter time a battery tender (if you live in a state with heavy winters) this one comes in right at $25 http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0123-Junior-Charger/dp/B000CITK8S
Or buy one from amazon for less with free shipping
That one is kind of weird. It looks like you need to install that whole thing and then pull the power cord out of the car and plug it into a wall? That is weird.
I would use this instead. https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0123-Junior-Charger/dp/B000CITK8S/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481806706&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=battery+tender
It's a smart charger, from a USA company made in USA, and when you don't need it you put it away. I have three of them. One for my classic car, and one for each of my motorcycles.
Add in this https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=S7TZQJ2BZZ3NWG4KS2KV
You connect this part to the battery terminals and leave them there. When you want to plug it in, you just connect the cords from the tender to this. Plug and play. I also use this on my motorcycles. My car I just use the standard connection clamps that come with the tender.
Cheap, USA made, and works. Read the reviews.
Here is my secret list shhhhhh... It's not cheap options that's for sure but I like being comfortable I guess, and it's stuff that will last for years of festival fun!
if you look on amazon you can get a battery tender for fairly cheap. With my bike I plug it in when I put it in storage and unplug it when I'm ready to ride. I don't do anything else to the bike to winterize except change the oil in the spring.
Edit: Here's the tender I bought, it's 25 bucks...(https://smile.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0123-Junior-Charger/dp/B000CITK8S/ref=lp_15707061_1_2?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480528572&amp;sr=1-2)
A battery tender will lengthen the life of your battery as well. Install some permanent leads so its easy to hook up and leave it on the tender whenever its parked at home.
Motorcycle battery chargers are relatively inexpensive (say, on Amazon for instance). It's definitely a worthwhile investment, especially if you're going to make a habit of leaving your scooter alone for extended periods.
Geometry fixes: Move the clipons so they're in the same position on both sides. Also, you can loosen the fork tube clamps some and wiggle them around some, this should cut down on any tweaked geometry they might have. Tighten them after you're done.
The wire: That's a trickle charger with an SAE connection. You can hook up one of these so you can charge it when you're not riding. It's super nice, easy to disconnect plug.
I have the same complaint. Might get these. Hella Supertone
Hella SuperTones. German made. 118dB. You WILL be heard with these.
Bought the horns off of Amazon then I used some extra wire and fixtures that were laying around the garage! I'll put a link to the horn set I bought.
But this is my 2016 crosstrek that's I've owned for about two months and I love it!
HELLA (3AG 003 399-801) Supertone 12V High Tone/Low Tone Twin Horn Kit with Bracket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CRZXPI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Hp6WAbFFJ7W96
I've got a set of Hella super tones. Please do this the right way and use the included relay instead of just using the old stock horn wire and "splitting it."
I didn't like the air horn option because of tight mounting space in my NA. My supers are pretty loud, it'll make you jump if you're standing in front of them when I hit it. Super tone kit is also louder than air horn kit from Hella.
Hella Horns my guy, way better.
Those are "Hella Supertones." A horn upgrade. They're really loud!
Has anyone used this:
Hella SuperTone Horn Kit, 118 db
you didn't specify you wanted OP ones, you should be more specific... here is an amazon link for Hella Supertones.
Unless I’ve been duped. When I was looking at them for my Subaru they were more expensive.
HELLA (3AG 003 399-801) Supertone 12V High Tone/Low Tone Twin Horn Kit with Bracket
Thats why you use open face horns.
Don't screw with the airbags. I used an "add-a-fuse" on my ACC circuit.
you could rewire the 12v outlet so that it pulls power from a fuse in your fusebox that's only powered when the ignition is on. You can buy little adapters that let you piggy-back fuses. this
Buy one of these (or something similar) and hard-wire the radar detector into your fuse box.
I used an "add-a-fuse" kit like this: https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-BP-HHH-ATM-Add-A-Fuse/dp/B000GKEXK2
and used it on the ignition fuse. Now whenever I start my car my radar detector turns on automatically. I imagine the same could be done with a dashcam or whatever. It was super easy. I've been wanting a dashcam though and I'd probably be able to put it onto the same circuit.
As someone with soldering skills, I would just install a supercapacitor on the power lead to power the camera for the few seconds the car is cranking.
However, if you don't have those types of skills, you could hardwire your cam to an ignition hot supply instead of accessory hot supply like it is now. What you'll need is a fuse panel tap like this one to tap into a source of ignition hot at the fuse panel, and a USB hardwire kit like this one to supply the 5V needed by the cam. Then a long enough USB cable to reach from the fuse box to the cam.
Anyone with an hour or two to spare and a crimper can do this easily. If however you aren't comfortable doing this yourself, a local audio shop should be able to install this for you very easily.
Sub amp? Hook the Pac up to the rear speaker wires and run your remote line to the fuse bloch with an add-a-fuse. Getting the power cable through the firewall can be a pain. You can run it under the car if you are very cautious with routing and protection. Be sure to read about gains and crossovers.
Add-A-Fuse. Install it in your fuse box in place of a switched ≤30amp fuse on a 12v line(radio, cigarette lighter, etc.), and you can run that fuse, as well as a ≤10amp fuse off of it. Wire the positive from the dashcam to the add-a-fuse, and ground it to the frame (either a nearby bolt on bare metal, or the bolt that the fuse box is grounded to).
There are ways to tie into the fuse box inside the cab. Depending on the options you have, you may or may not have an open circuit there.
Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000GKEXK2
I'm going to be doing some poking around tonight and see what I can come up with as my final solution. You'll probably see some more comments from me in your inbox later. :)
Also, is there any reason not to use these types of connectors when I splice that speaker wire in? Or do you have a better recommendation?
And I did find the fuse on the fusebox which appears to already be wired for "Subwoofer" from the factory. It's a 20 and I tested it last night and it is hot when the key is on, and not when the key is off. I was seriosuly considering just getting something like this and wiring the remote line in there. It seems like that would be the easiest option. I'm planning on probably mounting this under the passenger seat and running the power and remote lines up that passenger side...so I'll be right there at the fusebox anyways.
Sorry to ask so many questions, I just really don't want to fuck this up, and I want it done right. I'm sure I could find a way to make it work if I fucked with it enough, but I'd rather acknowledge my ignorance and seek help first BEFORE I'm in trouble instead of after. I'm leaving this all in the public comments (instead of PMs) so I can at least give you some karma...and maybe someone else with similar questions might be able to learn from my ignorance.
A typical (small) car battery will have at least 60 Ah of capacity at 12V nominal, meaning the battery has about 720 Watt-hours of capacity. An existing phone charger which is significantly larger than the magic plastic box has 15 Ah of capacity at 3.7 volts, or about 56 watt-hours of capacity (7.8% of the car battery).
Now let’s talk about boost converters, they will need to boost the internal voltage to about 13 volts to charge the car battery. Something like this 5-amp converter would work. Not only does this take up space but it is expensive, higher currents cost even more and will require fans or large heatsinks to prevent them from burning up. This converter states about a 90% efficiency for a 60W output; This will give us an 7.0% charge of the car battery and will take about 50 minutes to do it.
Not to mention most cars require the ignition to be on or in accessory mode to power the cigarette outlets, the ignition may draw upwards of 20 watts while the accessory mode will likely draw 5-10 watts, significantly reducing your battery charge.
Realistically for the size they show it will probably have about half the capacity of the existing charger I linked. Giving us about 30 watt-hours ( 4.2% of car battery) between this and losses in wires and parasitic draw you could expect about 2-3% charge, insignificant if your battery is actually low or dead.
TL;DR : Best case you could get about 7% charge on your car battery after an hour. If you like the idea get something like this instead, or better yet get one of these and a separate phone charger.
Bonus: This picture.
edit: changed picture link for a single picture instead of the massive combination one on the kickstarter.
Depends on how big you dont mind it being. The anker ones are good 600 and 400 amps and fit in a glove box. I personally have a jump n carry in my truck JNC660. It's large but I've used it dozens of times on my truck and 18 wheeler my generator cars tractors etc. Nothing has failed on it and I highly recommend it if the size isn't a bother.
I have an actual jump pack that I keep in my truck. It works awesome, never had a problem with it and can jump up to 15 times before it gets iffy if it will jump another. I've also jumped a big tuck engine (some international not sure what engine) with it but wouldn't recommend this one if that's what your doing. I charge it once every 6 months to be sure but it's usually around 80% either way.
If you were to get the one I have, I would recommend covers for the clips just in case, but other than that, It's very very dependable. I also use it to hook my inverter up for my stereo I bring everywhere.
The Weego seems decent, I'm just wary about not saying how many amps it provides and it may not work with a fully dead battery
Battery Tender 081-0069-6 Ring Terminal Harness with Black Fused 2-Pin Quick Disconnect Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CO2myb008ZQVE
Battery Tender 081-0158 Black Quick Disconnect Plug with USB Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DJ5KEF4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RP2mybAQ3ZYY3
Then you just connect and route a standard USB to mini USB.
I recommend this if you're gonna leave it plugged in, easier than taking off the seat!
Here's a pic OP if you want to compare. Yeah, I doubt that's killing the juice to your bike.
get this and connect it to this. that way have your battery tender plug for when the bike is sitting and use the same connection for the charger and nothing is draining anything
If youve already had the battery changed and its still dying in that short amount of time it could be an alternator problem. A battery tender was going to be my next advice but if there is no electrical socket your SOL there.
My last bit of advice would be to have the alternator checked and possibly a system drain test. Some shops can identify if there is an electrical device that is draining the battery when the car is off. If all else fails just buy a portable jumper like this and just jump it when you get to the car everytime you need it.
Sounds like you need a jumper!
Original Submission (100%): not sure about you guys, but i find this saves a lot... [D]
Posted: 5h before this post by tmp_acct9 (fixed by ElectricSheep88)
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I used the L bracket method along with some automotive body molding mounting tape. With the tape alone I was unable to pull the tables back apart.
Edit: Figured I should give links to the tape and brackets I used.
You can get either of them at pretty much any hardware store, or auto parts store. Although they will be a bit more expensive.
Oh, that thing. Use some 3M automotive trim tape to stick it back on. Glue is not going to work well and make a mess of your frame.
I believe the noise is created when the reverse lockout ring makes contact with the inside of the shift knob. I took off my shift knob and placed some foam tape on the inside of it to absorb the vibration and I have no more noise.
This is what I used.
Some come with air compressors: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002X6VXL4/ref=psdc_318336011_t2_B015TKUPIC
Yeah that makes the most sense I think. Thanks for the info! I have one of those external battery packs you can use to jump cars (this one). Normally we use it for phones + some other misc. electronics but I'll have to test it out and see how much I can get out of it charging my laptop.
I carry one of these battery buddies/mini compressors. It has a usb plug on it so I can also charge devices as needed. Highly recommend.
STANLEY J5C09 Power Station Jump Starter: 1000 Peak/500 Instant Amps, 120 PSI Air Compressor, Battery Clamps
Instant jump start battery with air compressor. Never leave home without one.
Which is why I carry this. It can not only jump other people, but it can safely jump my Prius as well. It’s actually very easy to jump start a Prius. The only tools required are a jump starter, or jumper cables and another car.
I've got a few suggestions, mainly for the car.
Wireless Onboard Diagnostics
Android Compatible ($70)
iPhone Compatible ($100)
Remote Starter Kit (Sale: $47 Retail $200) Unless he knows how to install it, I'd advise having it installed professionally.
Car Jumpstart Kit With Air Compressor (Sale: $80 Retail $100)
Dull knives? Make 'em sharp! Knife Sharpener (Sale: $24 Retail: $40)
Finally, since a GoPro is too pricey, try a cheaper version, the Monoprice MHD Action Camera (Sale: $104 Retail: $200) Based on the reviews, it seems like it's perpetually on sale.
I may do more sleuthing, but that's what I got so far!
I got this one almost 4 years ago now and it's done a great job. It isn't exact in the air pressure reading but I use an external gauge anyway https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002X6VXL4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ai69BbJJ3AX60
Are you serious?! I actually live up here, and I could have helped, but nooooooooooooo, somebody had to see this before me and be helpful.
But on a serious note, be extra careful about draining your battery during the winter. A completely dead car battery can freeze solid, rendering it dead forever. Also, a great investment is a portable jump pack. It has saved me endless times, as I am a person who leaves their lights on all the time.
You could create a device like that, but you'd want it to have its own battery to act as a giant DC capacitor, absorbing the current transient created by cranking. This would be much easier on your mains and breakers.
Here: Stanley J5C09 1000 Peak Amp Jump Starter with Built in Compressor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002X6VXL4/
You can get better ones for cheaper.
1000 peak amps
120 psi Air compressor
Made by a company that has a reputation and the product has reviews
$70 (10 bucks cheaper)
They also sell a 700 peak amp one with all the same features which is $40
My solution is skeleton housing with then use cigarette lighter USB charger plugged into jump battery for car or truck^overkill . You can do a time laps for over a day depending on the size of jump battery you use.
My experience with solar panels is that they are a waste of time, due to the slow charging, even when left directly in the sun all day on a clear day.
For backpacking, a 0.5-1lb battery pack will keep your phone running for two weeks if you are judicious with your use.
For car camping, I use a car battery / compressor / jump start device I bought from costco (something like [this])(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002X6VXL4/ref=psdc_318336011_t1_B01300OUAC). It handles flat tires, and it'll recharge any number of mobile gadgets more times than could possibly matter, and do so quickly.
Both solutions were dramatically cheaper than solar panels.
Yeah, I bought something similar to this. It works extremely well for about 6 hours a night. The mount comes with a DC plug out of the box, but for about $30 you can get the AC adapter(most I've seen recommend the 5amp version). Have the 2.5amp model myself, but it's never been used as it was an attempt to remedy my blown board.
The power cable from the Dec motor to the main board and the handset cable are the only RJ9 connectors you'll need to plug in to get it started. From the diagram it's A, B, and E are all. But the other end of B will go into your Dec motor.
Instead of a backup battery, I wonder if this works. I have it on my ICE cars.
The one I bought was a traditional 120v compressor for around the house, but I also keep one of these in my car. It's saved me from multiple flats and two dead batteries.
Why didn't you just buy this and hook it up to your trickle charger. Seems much simpler.
Yes, SAE is what battery tender's use to trickle charge, buy one of these and it will let you tap power to charge your phone or GPS.
I personally use this instead so I can plug it up at the triple tree.
Here is another that goes from SAE to cigaret
They are very useful when going on long trips when you don't know the roads. I love having the ram mount.
On the Scarabeo, I use a 12v charging port that connects to the Battery Tender cable. It's 100% non-invasive and removable.
Edit: It's this, connected to a standard charging cable that came with the Tender.
Get a cheap hanging shoe organizer and hang it from your easy up, you can store your snacks and stuff in it!
If you have the funds get a utility battery that can jump a car, I use one to keep 10+ phones topped up for the majority of the weekend. This is a newer model of the one I have.
Firefly lights a great way to illuminate the camp at night and one use of the batteries should last all weekend as long as you turn them off during the day.
Easy ups are usually 40-50 bucks at Dick’s sporting goods. Although my one regret is getting one with a larger footprint than the covered area (legs are angled outward). The ones that have the same covered area as the foot print (legs go straight up and down) are much better, especially when combining a few easy ups together!
All I got for now
Would something like this work? Assuming a CPAP takes a standard 120V plug? Schumacher XP2260 1200 Peak Amp Instant Portable Power Source and Jump Starter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004EIAADG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_35y4ybJJXTDM2
Schumacher XP2260 1200 Peak Amp Instant Portable Power Source https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004EIAADG/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_61E4wb9MHH5NH I have one for when I travel. Will run my Lenovo y50 for a long time
worked great last year, 120 bucks at Lowes
and a USB charging station to go with
People's lack of preparedness astonishes me.
At all times, you need these in your car:
Something to break your window and something to cut your seatbelt, like this: https://www.amazon.com/Towallmark-Seatbelt-Cutter-Breaker-Emergency/dp/B002AMAXNA
In cold weather areas, you also need:
Very warm jacket, gloves, hat
There's more, for sure. That's off the top of my head. I drive an electric car and still have jumper cables for all the idiots that don't. I even have a car battery charger for other people: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004EIAADG/ref=s9_acsd_zgift_hd_bw_bLXhjn_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-8&amp;pf_rd_r=HBMZ3ASAYDSAZ2X5FEQ9&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_p=a6b3dd3a-5e3d-5661-9134-0d3384e34ec6&amp;pf_rd_i=318336011
EDIT: and a spare tire. Ugh. I have run flats.
EDIT #2: and an ice scraper, obviously.
Single use devices are so passe.
I'm getting this car jumper/power source that should last me the whole 4 days
Schumacher XP2260 1200 Peak Amp Instant Portable Power Source https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004EIAADG/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_vfFfvb0Y0QFHZ
And plug my $40 computer speakers that I use for backyard parties all the time. And use very little power
Logitech Z313 Speaker System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002HWRZ2K/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_HhFfvb1N5N127
The least expensive useful solar power generator is probably this [$228.99 128 wH Monerator Gusto 10 Eco Kit with a 10W solar panel ] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HUMZV6Y/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00HUMZV6Y&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=battleforthew-20).
You can plug it in and recharge it before you take it out into the field.
The batteries are li-ion, so it's not a huge lead acid brick.
I have a couple of lead acid power packs ([this one] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004EIAADG/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B004EIAADG&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=battleforthew-20) and [this one] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00005RHQQ/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00005RHQQ&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=battleforthew-20)), but they are so heavy I don't take them anywhere.
It would be a challenge to build anything less expensive than this.
Hope this is helpful and best of the holidays!
Hey I'm not the OP, for more info please go to the original post to congratulate them. :)
Personally I DO live in a van, it's a 1992 Chevy G20 Gladiator. I have a memory foam mattress on top of a wooden platform, totes and cardboard boxes for storage (food, clothing, etc.) underneath. having the mattress off the floor gives space for storage, and also insulates the mattress from the heat or cold of the ground.
For privacy I have tinted windows, non-adhesive window film, collapsible foil sunshade for the front window, and black bug screen mesh like this for the side windows.
For water I use sturdy Arizona tea jugs. I have a basic Coleman camping toilet for nighttime and emergency uses - some people simply use pee bottles or five gallon buckets.
If it's cold at night I have a [12V electric blanket](https://www.walmart.com/ip/TREKSAFE-12-Volt-Heated-Travel-Blanket-White/54609929] and/or a 12V "car seat" warmer that I put under the mattress. I also have a propane Little Buddy heater which I have not yet used.
My main luxury item is an Alpicool C15 refrigerator powered by two 35AH "house batteries" (in parallel) which are charged using a Battery Doctor isolator. The Battery Doctor is run by my alternator when I drive-it only starts charging the house batteries after my van battery is full. The fridge uses 5.8AH per day. I used a cooler for a year, but the drawbacks are constantly buying or procuring ice (like from soda fountains), and food spoilage from it getting waterlogged, plus having to drain it frequently.
For hot meals, I use a 12 volt "lunchbox cooker" (works similar to a crock pot) which is powered in my cigarette lighter while I drive (or I can run it with the house batteries through a 12v splitter - the Alpicool is plugged into the other side. I also have a propane camping stove which I have never used.
I have a USB mini fan to run at night, or I can run my small regular fan through the 300W power inventor where I can also charge my laptop and/or phone (I usually charge the phone in the cigarette lighter).
I don't make any money if you buy from any of these links, but I only used them for illustrative purposes - I encourage you to shop around on Craigslist, eBay, Amazon, Walmart, check yard sales, etc. find the best priced similar item that works best for you. You don't have to get everything all at once - I didn't. But if you can get a basic minivan or van (seats removed), a mattress (or sleeping bag even) on a frame, and some jugs of water, it's a start.
All you need is a second battery and this:
I run a dual battery system and power my accessories off my second battery. Add a solar charger too if you want if you're running like a 12v fridge.
Use it for camping / "overlanding"
Yeah, I thought anyone interested in the thread would be! But as soon as I posted the original version with amazon links, it was auto-deleted. Weird.
Oh well, here are my products:
Solar panel: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017OMTAV6/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&amp;coliid=I2R53I6ASRE7TH&amp;psc=1
Charge controller: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JMLPP12/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&amp;coliid=IMF9F8IHLJ6EN&amp;psc=1
House battery: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/SSBQ/3478PLT/03321.oap?year=1967&amp;make=Ford&amp;model=Mustang&amp;vi=1332302&amp;ck=Search_03321_1332302_-1&amp;pt=03321&amp;ppt=C0005
Battery isolator: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058SGDFK/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&amp;coliid=I2UYT4LFVI14AN
Van fan: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002OWAIB8/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&amp;coliid=I1Q9S1UN7Z94H7&amp;psc=1
LED lights: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007JF2A6G/ref=od_aui_detailpages02?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Fuse block: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000K2MBPA/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&amp;coliid=IK1ERB55YT6QX&amp;psc=1
Main line fuses (inline): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WZHE3A4/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&amp;coliid=ICS8GYAQNUJV1&amp;psc=1
Most people just hook up a battery isolator directly to the battery(with a fuse/cutoff), https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058SGDFK/ref=sspa_dk_detail_7?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B0058SGDFK&pd_rd_w=kZSG2&pf_rd_p=45a72588-80f7-4414-9851-786f6c16d42b&pd_rd_wg=olAif&pf_rd_r=04Q9EZVFRHJXKCC3VBWG&pd_rd_r=d9a5398a-f2ab-42d3-87ae-4247542af90e&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExVkZPNlhUQU1LMUc4JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDQwNTY1MTJFSlpaTTk1MVJHTyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMzUzOTQwMllRTVo1QU1TVVZNUCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbCZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
This will charge the battery when the vehicle is running and not drain the vehicle battery. The DC-DC converter you link to would also need to be used with an isolator.
>Hmm, it seems as though if I'm going to need a toggle switch for the solenoid I might as well save myself the money and the hassle and just get one of those large manual isolator switches. Unless you disagree.
they both do the same thing, but i would go with a solenoid personally. however, there's another option that i noticed we haven't talked about, and that is an automatic isolator. something like this : https://www.amazon.com/WirthCo-20092-Battery-Doctor-Isolator/dp/B0058SGDFK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486427671&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=automatic+battery+isolator
(take note of the wiring diagram picture on that amazon listing, it may help you).
an automatic isolator like that will automatically charge your deep cycles once the starting battery is charged up, and prevent the deep cycles from discharging your deep cycles. unlike with a solenoid or manual isolator switch, there is no chance of you forgetting to disconnect the deep cycles batteries and accidentally draining your starting battery. i would highly recommend going with something like this - it is simpler to wire up AND will be more user-friendly once installed.
>If I do in fact skip the solenoid I would imagine I would place the isolator switch on the positive wire from the deep cycle battery to the car starting battery.
>If I keep everything wired as you laid out in the diagram above, would I be able to charge my deep cycle batteries without draining my car battery AND without actually starting my car? Ehh now that I write that out it doesn't make any sense. fuck
yea the car has to be running, the alternator is what actually does the charging and its not going to put out and power unless the engine is running.
How tall are you? I’m planning to do this as well.
Try a Battery isolator
With it, you can skip solar and still have electricity for your car.
I survived a year with a 100ah house battery hooked up to one of these to connect it to the alternator after the starting battery had been topped off. My loads were a strip of led lights going the perimeter of the van, a roof van and an led strip for cooking. On occasion I'd charge a phone or something from the house battery, but usually it'd get plugged in while I was driving.
Just recently I installed solar panels and the whole nine yards so I can run a little 50L fridge.
How much driving vs. staying in one place do you plan to do? If you're on the road a lot, it might work to just use a battery isolator so you can charge from the alternator. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0058SGDFK/
I got this one:
I liked it because it is reversible in case I stupidly drain my starter batteries, I can use the AGM to charge them.
Yes, this is the isolator I bought. So, I think I'm doing it right, but not sure.
edit: Also checked the amps and my van has a 105-145 amp alternator. Not sure which one, but positive it's one of the two, and that works with 150amps so I guess I'm all good.
Not bad. I think I saw it at £200 the other week for all 3.
I’ve heard that the G920 has some reliability issues and that the TMX is probably better to go with if you get the Pro set with the T3PA pedals.
If you’re not too bothered about the shifter straight away I’d get the TMX. I have it and the wheel is great for the price bracket, just steer clear of the 2 pedal set if you have the budget to go a step further. Some links below so you can have a look;
ThrustMaster TMX PRO Steering Wheel + Pedalboard https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01M5ALXJD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6RUpDb20TDV5F
ThrustMaster T3Pa Pro Pedal set - 4060065 (Gaming > Game Controllers) +}b https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00UVN21IU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HSUpDbP6YVZ0D
Thrustmaster TH8A Shifter (PS4, Xbox One, PS3, PC - Windows 8, 7, Vista & XP) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B005L0Z2BQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_eTUpDbTEV2EHJ
You could also go for the Thrustmaster T300 with the Alcantara wheel and T3PA pedals and the TH8A shifter for less money than the bundle with a better wheel.
You also need a drill and a bunch of different size M6s to attach everything to the Challenge.
Oh, and I put a bunch of foam behind my pedals.
Amazon UK and Zavvi (reputable UK seller) both have the TH8A in stock:
I can recommend my setup:
Thrustmaster T300 Ferrari Alcantara Integral Edition
Get a extra shifter like the TH8A
SimRig GT Omega Pro RS9
Total cost: 1070$
Of course you could get even better options on the market. But IMO it is the best compromise between cost, reliability and quality.
is a great way to charge electronics. For camping entertainment or just otherwise. Also look for camp sites with good hiking or hotsprings nearby. Nothing is better than soaking after a full days ride.
You sure can!
Just remember to disconnect it when not in use - even with no device attached, they draw a small amount of current.
2 things come to mind.
Wow, I hadn't considered using the bike to charge my phone. Just found that there's a usb adapter that connects directly to the Battery Tender leads.
You can chuck this on the wiring and then a USB to mini USB for your phone. Think this is what you want
Get something that has a cover for the plug when you're not using it. Like this or this. Also, let me know if you figure out a way to get actual USB-C charging speeds.
Get these Battery Tender 081-0069-6 Ring Terminal Harness with Black Fused 2-Pin Quick Disconnect Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kZ.tzb78XRSC3
Battery Tender 021-0123 Battery Tender Junior 12V, 0.75A Battery Charger will charge and maintain your battery so that it is ready to go when you are! It's lightweight, fully automatic and easy to use https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CITK8S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_y4.tzbARX0FQZ
They also sell them as a package at most battery stores. I can't tell by the description if the tender includes the adapter as well.
Every time you get home plug it in and leave it plugged in.
In terms of having something to charge a battery without taking the seat/unscrew everything, you could get him something like what you've linked but I would opt for a SAE connection cable. SAE connections are much more common for accessories (like chargers or USB connectors) than the BMW cigarette style.
This is what I have on my bike for battery tenders and separate USB plugs
https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498076141&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=battery+tender+cable - $6
You could easily get him this in addition to whatever else.
edit - fixed link
This so what I have: https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0128-Maintain-Damaging/dp/B00068XCQU/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1539529909&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=battery+tender&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41GJoSjcVrL&amp;ref=plSrch
Paired with this pigtail lead which sits in my glovebox: https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ
Do not cut into or splice off of your wire harness. Get a battery tender pigtail that connects directly to your battery (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_-1cAzb8YDMYBC). Then use a 'Battery Tender SAE to USB adapter to plug a USB cable into (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DJ5KEF4/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_r3cAzbN5DASR2). This was you can charge you bike when parked for a while and have the freedom to run the USB cable to your bars for your ram mount or into your bags to charge extra gear.
I added one of these to my bike.
I then plug in one of these to charge my phone.
I much prefer the modular setup as I can plug in other accessories to the same port, such as my tire inflator. However one of the direct to battery usb chargers may be cheaper.
Other people mentioned the Battery Tender adapter, which is great.
This guy did a great review on some Bonneville upgrades, and the charger set up he did is excellent.
I am pretty sure this would mount on a ST just the same. I use this on a 60 mile round trip commute and its great. Good visibility and it keeps everything charged.
Basically get these:
Battery Tender Harness
And a small piece of velco with glue on it to hold the adapter/cord to your bike when not in use.
Do you really commute 200 miles a day? Or is that just a fun trip you have planned?
I use one on my bikes. I've seen my battery get low if I'm running a lot of lights or use my E-start a few times on a short trip. It definitely extends the life of a battery.
If you get one buy one of these too:
It's a harness that you attach to your battery, and you can put the quick connector somewhere so you don't always have to remove your seat. On my dirt bikes, I put them behind my air box door next to the air box, so I can access it within seconds.
Oh wow thanks for the detailed explanation!! I have one of those basic ones like this: https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B000NCOKZQ&amp;pd_rd_r=FEPFCNGTVQGZ1AS6BW9E&amp;pd_rd_w=eRr1U&amp;pd_rd_wg=vLNJB&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=FEPFCNGTVQGZ1AS6BW9E
Have you ever tried them?
IMO, every man should just own one of these:
Especially if you are single / live by yourself / only have one car.
I just carry this.
Its freaking way more convenient.
I have the Weather Tech mats and they're awesome.
I keep a microfiber towel in the glove box for quick wipe downs, but every few weeks or so, I'll use Meguiar's to clean the interior.
I have a jump starter just in case anything went wrong! Beyond that, hmm... I'm not entirely sure. I have done some light modding to my CX-5, but nothing that are like, "OH MAN, GET THIS!"
I carry a jump starter in my car because I don't want to ever have to fuck with jumping another car again. It's more of a hassle to position the damn cars together than anything else plus jumping cars isn't good for yours. I have had this jump starter for well over 2 years and the damn thing is great. I didn't charge it once for over 3 months and kept it in the trunk of my car in the cold weather and it jumped my friends car first go. It's well worth the $70 and I bought it because my battery was dead once and I missed a full days worth of work. Had I had this, it would have paid for itself right there.
Nothing stopping you from buying a jump starter and charging the battery. It might take a while, but it's probably not that dead. i took one of these and just clamped it to the battery: http://smile.amazon.com/Jump-N-Carry-JNC300XL-Ultraportable-Starter-Light/dp/B000XQ9MGE/
fyi i think you are fine jumping from the pig tails. i've done it before. but i don't have your bike. they only use that high current for a couple of seconds. and there's probably a fuse in there anyway.
3M. Do NOT use super glue!!!
This tape will work too. Also available in 1/2 inch. Follow the instructions to the letter.
super strong magnets and some 3m automotive adhesive
This is the one I got from Amazon. Not sure how the OEM spoiler is shaped on the underside as mine is a different aftermarket spoiler, but this size should work for you. There are videos on YouTube you can check out for prepping and tips on applying it.
Best tape for the job
I had these on my ST. They were excellent. Just pick up a roll of this because the fake 3M tape that comes with the guards is crap.
So, I've ran into this problem with pretty much everything on the market. My solution was 3M Automotive double sided tape. This stuff will stick to anything!
I would contact their CS team and see what they say.
I like using adhesive for fans too. 3M makes a high strength adhesive tape used for attaching trim on cars. http://smile.amazon.com/3M-03614-Scotch-Mount-Molding-Tape/dp/B002JOVUO0
5 foot should be plenty, but it's really not that much more to buy 15 feet. Just some small squares on the corner and they won't come off without some serious pulling.
You can purchase 3m VHB tape from any automotive shop like Autozone or Oreilly's. Or you can purchase online Amazon or eBay.
This stuff would work, maybe? https://www.amazon.com/3M-3614-15/dp/B002JOVUO0?th=1&psc=1
My first thought (although a somewhat off-label use) would be 3m VHB trim and molding tape like this: https://www.amazon.com/3M-3614-15/dp/B002JOVUO0. As long as both surfaces are perfectly clean (as in wipe them down with alcohol before applying), I'd be shocked if it didn't hold up as least as well as whatever the holder came with. It's fairly ridiculous stuff.
I'd go with something like that being somewhat flexible over an epoxy of any sort, the flexibility might help it last longer. I would bet that 3M 5200 would work as well (it's a marine adhesive sealant) but it'd be more of a PITA to work with than the VHB tape.
Original receiver sucks, I got this which allows for more features (like syncing to music) and can be controlled with my phone.
Original backing tape wasn’t the strongest, so I used that to stick it on.
Looks like this. https://www.amazon.com/3M-03614-Scotch-Mount-Molding-Tape/dp/B002JOVUO0
Can be bought at AutoZone too. Has a red backing but the tape is black
3M body moulding adhesive. Just plan on setting aside plenty of time if you ever want to remove the lightstrip.
3M 03614 Scotch-Mount 1/2" x 15' Molding Tape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002JOVUO0/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_I-qRwb0XJE18E
3M 3614 1/2" x 15' 0 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002JOVUO0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_klZSDb5TREH44
Specifically either of these should work fine:
Walmart usually carries both and any auto parts store too.
i don't want to charge it from the car anymore. preferably I would like to just charge some battery pack at home and bring it with me on the road. which I thought I could do with this?
All-in-one emergency battery starter/air compressor/phone charger/flashlight. There are many brands but everyone should get one of these:
A rediculously invaluable tool for any car. Has saved me many times from awkwardly asking strangers for help or waiting around for a tow service. Especially useful if you live in a winter climate where battery life can be finicky.
Thanks so much for your reply. I do have another key and fob set. I'll just swap it with that one and test if it makes a difference. As for the alarm, I did not install anything in the car after it was purchased so I'm not sure if it comes with a factory installed alarm. I do notice that when the car is locked, there's a tiny led light blinking next to the windshield but I'm not sure if that means the car has an alarm system installed. Any easy way to verify this? As for when did it start, I would say about a week ago. So far it's happened twice and it doesn't happen everyday, but I'm trying to anticipate in case it's a battery issue. If that's the case, I'd rather replace it now than have the car leave me stranded in the middle of nowhere. In the meantime, I purchased this, just in case. Nothing else is acting strange.
> I recently purchased this sucker, an '88 Falcon 190SLR built on a Ford E350. It is in quite remarkable condition
Diesel or gas? Say diesel, please for the love of god and engines.
> My intention's for me and my doggo to go across the US with it over the winter, using a mix of parks/motels
What breed? Many parks restrict larger breed dogs, particularly pits.
and the occasional bout of dry camping. The toilet and shower were taken out of it for more storage space (it was most recently driven from OR to Alaska and back last year), so I would not go too hardcore on the boondocking. (I thought about replacing the toilet at least, but i must admit to liking more storage.)
Get a portapooper. Parked where no one can see you, who cares? Even better/cheaper....a bumper dumper.
> I know I'll need a generator (and a hitch I suppose), and I intend to buy a used one locally. I'll probably wanna get some better locks or security on it too I suppose. I'll be working along the way, so I'll have my laptop with me, but that'll be the main power user.
If you aren't parked long, or have the time to wait, solar is sufficient to charge a laptop or you can charge it off the van alternator while driving. When I go out deep in the woods I carry one of these and charge it off an inverter while driving. It's great as you get both 12 volt DC from a cigarette lighter plug and USB
> A couple questions:
> I intend to visit some pretty damn cold places -- Vermont, Maine, the CO mountains. Am I big enough that I gotta have chains, or can I find some snow tires for it? Should I grab an engine block heater while I'm at it? Any particular experiences with camping out in the cold? I'll be on propane heat, and I'll look into some insulation I can stick on the windows/fantastic fan on the ceiling.
CA is the only place I'm aware where they will actually prevent you from traveling without chains. You might NEED them but probably won't be required to have them.
> Any suggestions on some better locks/security for this guy? Or should I bother?
No locks are going to keep out someone determined to get in. Chances are if someone is trying to break in they will ignore the locks and break a window. Best defense is don't have/show anything worth stealing.
> I'll also be around FL in Jan, my first time there in years. Given that this is prime season, would I need to reserve well in advance at any camp I wind up at?
> Anyone else have one of these and know of anything in particular I can expect to break midway?
> Thanks! (More q's will probably occur to me later, but you know how it goes.)
My car jumper has saved me a couple times. They're great. I'd only say that the one you linked is pretty small. For $10 more this one has 5x the capacity, higher peak output (jump bigger engines), and a pump. It also has a 12 volt output, a light, and a USB output to charge electronics. It is a lot bigger, though.
You can use a battery, but I use a jump box. It supplies the 12v I need to power the head unit and has enough left over for me to wire up all the speakers and really give them hell before I install anything. It works great for testing any other accessories you're thinking of installing too.
If you are in a city you might be able to locate an auto supply store near by and sweet talk them helping you out. Or the might have something like this
I have a large portable pack that charges pretty well but its pretty big
I run mine off a jump pack and an inverter, but I have only done it for one night. Your solution is much more elegant!
I have something like this
It has saved my ass several times and occasionally I can haul it nearby to help others. Its a little on the pricier side, but it can be quite handy.
something like this
They are great if the power fails because you can charge your phone in your house and have it as a light.
STANLEY J5C09 Jump Starter: 1000 Peak/500 Instant Amps, 120 PSI Air Compressor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002X6VXL4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YcpOzbX0MT5KJ
Thanks for running this contest, /u/Sp3cia1K !
Here's my list of 5, and I can guarantee that the first item I have listed is unbelievably useful for anyone with a car.
bitch get om my level.. but really I have never regretted buying one of these.
My Honda doesn't charge my phone if the car is off, fuck it plug it in this thing in the trunk.
Tires a little low? Don't need a big compressor I'll top it off
Lost power? Go to the car get the battery.. I can charge my phone 20 fuckin times (somebody do the math)
And most importantly never have to worry about a car battery dying on you
I'm not sure about the reservations but I'm gonna suggest one of these [http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-J5C09-500-Amp-Built-In-Compressor/dp/B002X6VXL4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1372734340&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=Black+and+decker+battery+charger+and+compressor] for the air mattress and to keep in the car. I have a similar one and that with a tire plug kit has save my @$$ more than once
You can but the car needs to be off. I use a portable jump starter myself. You can look at the battery or use a multimeter to check the voltage.
If you're set on solar, then this isn't for you. But i have brought this to every fest i've gone to and its never ran out of juice. I use external batteries and as my phone charger as well. It also starts dead cars and can be charged (somewhat) if hooked up to a running car's battery for a while.
Do you think this would power it okay? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002X6VXL4?keywords=jump%20starter&amp;qid=1457041313&amp;ref_=sr_1_3&amp;sr=8-3
The jumper pack can be very useful, as long as you remember to recharge it every month or two (without any usage in that time).
I have a pretty new battery, < 1 year old, so we put it in my wife's car, and she had to use it when her battery died.
Here's the one we've got. It also has a little air compressor for filling your tires plus USB ports and a cigarette lighter. Well worth the $80 for the times you may need any of those features, yet small enough and you don't need a second person / car.
A 12-volt emergency battery booster for starting a car with a dead battery.
Edit: Like this one
why do you need them all in one?
There's a Stanley jumpstarter/compressor, and here's an off brand (I think) fast charger.
Together they're $107, with free shipping if you have prime (it may also be free economy shipping too).
I imagine you could connect to the ignition circuit. GPS and cell phone chargers don't draw that much power, I'm pretty sure you would be okay. I'm not 100% certain though, maybe toss a thread up in XLForums, or ask /u/gunslinger_006, he is the resident Sportster expert IMO. Wherever you add the wire, ensure to fuse it properly.
Edit for what I do on my sporty: I have a battery tender lead tucked behind my fuse panel cover, and I got a 12 volt socket adapter for my tender plug. I keep it in my saddle bag, and charge up when I need to :-)
I've already got a dedicated charger for it, looks like the inverter is probably the best plan. So picking up one of these guys - http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-8-Cigarette-Disconnect/dp/B0041CDPQO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462991533&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=usb+to+cigarette+lighter+adapter - to go with the inverter and the standard usb adapter is probably going to be my best bet.
I appreciate the help!
At first I only used this Cardo Scala G4 which installs into almost any helmet. Now I mainly use it just for music. The playback controls are super easy.
Very recently I added a Battery Tender cigarette adapter along with this Ram Handle Bar Base and my existing Ram X-Grip Mountwith a 1" socket arm. I just took it on a good 2 day ride and loved it completely.
What bike? A throttle lock will help a lot. I use this from Vista Cruise. Works well with a little bit of fiddling.
Definitely get a helmet speaker system that can bluetooth to your phone. I use the Sena SMH-10. Worth every penny. You can stream Pandora straight to your helmet and one touch on the control activates the voice dialing function on your phone.
Also a 12v lighter plug for your phone charger will keep the tunes and maps and emergency comms working. I use a cheap lighter socket ($6) that plugs into my battery tender port. I run it into my tank bag where I keep my phone.
My bike already had a battery tender cable hooked up, so I got this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0041CDPQO/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
And this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0047T79TA/ref=oh_details_o04_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
The USB is super small (barely even sticks out of the cig lighter). I jam this whole thing in my pocket because I use it to power my chatterbox on long rides.
$30 all together, but then you have a battery tender connector, a cig lighter connector, and a USB connector. You can pretty much do anything with that combo.
Or just get more batteries with a charger kit like this, which I got for my Drift Ghost and really saved my bacon on the long trip I just took. I was able to film and take pictures with a camera mounted helmet and charge the extra batteries in my bag at the same time. They make them for GoPro too.
Might I also suggest a battery tender cable with fuse, SAE to female cig adapter if you don't want to attempt any soldering or rewiring, and to charge your phone and other electronics SAE to usb adapter
Yup. You want to use something like this.
18 amp hour for 50$ off ebay.
I'm thinking about building my own solar power generator using 'B' grade solar cells from eBay (<$1/watt) and a ~$100 12V deep cycle battery (an understanding of electronics and soldering is required to DIY), but as a solo attendee, I'm a little concerned about transporting 'too much stuff' from my car to Dreamville in a small collapsible cart as well as my 'footprint' as a single attendee (in a 5'x7' tent with privacy shelter/shower).
If you interested in the technical details, I'm looking at 2 or 3 ~60-65W panels and a ~10mAH battery. Total weight should be about 40-50lbs with panels, mounting frame and battery. Total cost for DIY: ~$300-400 plus 12-36hrs of assembly time.
The solar array 'frame' is another concern - I considered building a PVC frame covered by a solar reflective tarp around my tent to block that ugly morning sun/heat, but if I plan to integrate a solar array into the frame, my PVC must be strong enough (and pointed in the correct direction to collect sunlight) to support my array.
I already have a schaumacher xp2260, but I want to make sure that I have enough juice for 4 nights.
I've been thinking about this problem for a month so I'm anxious to hear some input from 'festival veterans'.
Hey man. This one isn't Solar, but it does everything you could want it to do. I know it says you need an extension chord to charge it, but you can actually charge it up very quickly by hooking it to your car battery while your car is turned on. This probably has a little more battery life than the Goal Zero one as well. I've run fans and all kinds of stuff off this thing. You can run up to two fans at once off of it.
There are two answers to this question, the simple and the not-so-simple.
First, I disagree that the other posters that very low watt Roland amps are useful tools, especially where vocals are concerned. Powering your 15 watt AC required amp is a far better idea for the resulting sound.
Start with something like this :
If your amp hums or otherwise doesn't like the power this provides, the complicated answer becomes necessary. The power this provides should last around 6-9 hours with a typical 15 watt solid state amp. the resulting sound will have much less distortion than any of the lightweight portables that are sold as busking solutions (With the possible exceptions of the Acus One for Street, AER Compact Mobile though neither of these really qualifies as small or light).
We have one of these little things. It's very handy.
This is the one I have - https://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-XP2260-Instant-Portable-Starter/dp/B004EIAADG
Works pretty fast, I'd advise getting the male-to-male 12v plug so you can recharge it from your car. Can be used to pump up your tyres too and as a power source so you can use it for other things too (as long as it stays under the max AC power limits) like charging your laptop or phone.
If you want something heavy duty for the whole group then a redditor had recommended this one. It can jumpstart the car if your car battery dies too.
Did it look like this version?
I think one of these is what you need.
This bad boy powered my wet-to-dry hair straightener and charged phones and battery packs, inflated air mattresses, and still had plenty of juice to jumpstart my truck Monday morning after I forgot about the internal lights being on with the doors open all weekend.
One of the best camping-festival investments I've made.
This one seems to combine them into one device: http://www.amazon.com/Allstart-555-Battery-Starter-Inverter/dp/B008FKJH9C
edit: this one looks better and cheaper: http://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-XP2260-Instant-Portable-Source/dp/B004EIAADG
Lots of battery backups have AC on them. The one I use for my computer is AC output. Someone in the comments linked this multipurpose one https://smile.amazon.com/Schumacher-XP2260-Instant-Portable-Starter/dp/B004EIAADG
Have you every considered getting an emergency portable jump starter? I have this one.
It has outlets, and USB ports. I used to drive a rather old car, so I would take it with me on road trips, but now I also take it for my weeklong SCA camping trips. I can charge my phone for emergencies, but also run a fan or a heater if I need to. I got it for leaving the house, but it's been handy for power outages!
I bought this for camping and charging batteries. Kinda overkill but I camp alot.
I have one of these, you have extra power in case of an emergency, USB ports etc which come in handy. Inflator is a bit slow and loud but I have a 2 stroke motor so my wife typically inflates while we motor out. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004EIAADG/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495116657&amp;sr=8-9&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=schumacher+battery+charger&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51-TdcM1rTL&amp;ref=plSrch
There are also a couple of different commercial electronic battery isolators. There's the big diode and heat sink type and the "smart" voltage sensing ones, like: https://www.amazon.com/WirthCo-20092-Battery-Doctor-Isolator/dp/B0058SGDFK
I use one of these to charge a gell cell in my vehicle and like it. I have it in a plastic ammo box with Anderson power poles. I just insert it inline or remove it when I don't need it.
3 questions, please bear with me!
Thanks for the help
This is exactly what he said when referencing a battery isolator - "You use it to isolate two batteries and you don't need the solenoid.
Plus it correctly regulates charging. There are variants of the pic so get the correct one for your voltage and current needs. They even make one that will allow your storage battery to boost your starter battery. They cheaper ones do not do this but can be jumped with a bypass switch.
What you have there is a potential fire. Also with 6v batteries, the charging rates can be different. Batteries in a series are always problematic."
But I just to make sure I understand you correctly. This device: https://www.amazon.com/WirthCo-20092-Battery-Doctor-Isolator/dp/B0058SGDFK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486427671&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=automatic+battery+isolator
That will cover me in the same way that both the solenoid and the isolator switch will?
Also side note, I plan on purchasing two of these: http://www.genuinedealz.com/blue-sea-systems-5191-fuse-block-for-battery-terminal-fuse
Both, if I am correct, would go on the car battery positive terminal and the golf battery1 terminal.
Well I'm in Kenai National Park don't have a mailing address and there is a NAPA in Seward so I thought I might see what they have, but I only need to charge one auxiliary battery, which is currently charged via an isolator, to power my laptop so I can do photo editing any suggestions?
Use something like this to charge the house batteries from the alternator: http://www.amazon.com/WirthCo-20092-Battery-Doctor-Isolator/dp/B0058SGDFK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1419301084&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=battery+isolator
Buy the best inverter you can afford(that has enough watts to run your blender). I used a cheap 500w inverter from costco in my truck camper, it ran my 600w blender everyday, and I also ran my laptop and charged camera batteries etc from it. For about 10 weeks straight.
If you can afford it, buy a pure sine wave unit, if not, I wouldn't worry about it. I've since upgraded to a pure sine wave unit, but neither my laptop nor my blender suffered any ill effects from the modified sine wave unit.
You need a smart switch for convenience, in my opinion. They're not that pricey. You can use them to let the power flow from the alternator to both batteries, but prevent power flow from the car battery to your appliances. This way, you'll never get stranded.
And with a smart switch that lets you connect the batteries in parallel with a button press, you can also start the car off the "house" battery pack in case the starter battery goes wonky or you accidentally drain it with a car radio or something.
It also charges your car battery with priority, which is what you want. When you start the van, you want the power you used to start it to be put back in it first, and then charge the house battery pack. You don't want the car battery drained because, again, hello being stranded.
Install it and forget it, basically. Why not do it right while you're installing it in the first place?
https://www.amazon.com/WirthCo-20092-Battery-Doctor-Isolator/dp/B0058SGDFK for example.
There are manual options, relay based options and then fully electronic smart options like this. Go with the smart option.
Thanks for the help!! Probably going to to use this one: https://www.amazon.com/WirthCo-20092-Battery-Doctor-Isolator/dp/B0058SGDFK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482931643&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=battery+isolator
Seems good? I doubt my alternator is rated at like 200 amps, it SHOULD be 100...... O_O. Ford Van. Econoline.
Here's the basic mods I went with for our Vandura. We wanted to keep it simple and get it done in a couple months. Since I work full-time, time was the major constraining factor. We only use ours for a weekend fun vehicle so your needs may be different. We like ours, but it's definitely not Instagram worthy. I'm assuming yours has the conversion setup inside (wood paneling etc.) so it should be similar
- Replace the factory valence and center lighting with LEDs. The stock lights are garbage and one of the valence lights shorted out with the previous owner and was a safety issue. We used multi-colored dimmable lights for the center ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ML5ZJQR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) and simple LEDs for the valence ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF64JG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ). After install the valence lights are SUPER bright; in retrospect, I'd use just one strip for all three valence lights
- Remove the rear captains chairs and install vinyl flooring in the middle. We have an electrically driven sofa/bed in the back that we wanted to keep in case we need extra legal seating, so we only installed flooring in the middle portion of the van between the cab and rear sofa seating. We found some vinyl "planks" at Walmart for dirt cheap (~$20 for the whole area) but the adhesive they came with didn't work great, especially with drastic temp changes. I'd suggest going with single sheet vinyl or laminate or, at the very least, using liquid nails as a substitute adhesive.
- Built a counter space/storage cabinet. I just used basic sideboard plans found on the internet. This stores our aux battery, fuse block, inverter and gives some additional storage space
- Install a battery isolator, aux battery, fuse block, inverter etc. We went with the Battery Doctor isolator ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058SGDFK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) because of the added ability to use the aux battery to supplement the starter battery in emergencies
- Install forced air ventilation. I didn't want to cut through the roof for a MaxxAir fan because we liked the lighting. Since the conversion van has 3 sets of sliding windows, we created a make-shift side vent fans out of 12V computer fans ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072NCYQRY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ). Three fans fit in each sliding window. Each fan is rated at 52CFM so (in theory) we get ~200-300CFM with two windows (eventually I'll get accurate measures with an anemometer just for curiosity's sake). Since we don't cook in the van and the van has multiple windows that open, this just helps the forced airflow to prevent condensation while sleeping.
- Upgraded the CRT TV to a flat screen ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X3VH4VK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ). Side note: the TV remote IR frequency changes the color of the multi-color LEDs. Maybe you can get around this with a different LED setup. We just turn the TV on before the lights to get around it
- Wired the TV, vent fans, and center lights to the aux battery. We originally had the valence lights hooked to it too, but since they're so damn bright we never used them and I reconnected them to the starter battery.
- Eventually, I'll build a storage compartment in the back that also opens to a table out the back hatch.
- So far, we're happy with just a cooler between the cab chairs. If we eventually go to a 12V fridge, we'll probably need another battery which doesn't make economic sense for what we use the van for
Its been great!
I have yet to run into any issues with the wheel itself, though I feel I should warn you that if you're on carpet, the pedals don't have carpet spikes. So, you'll need to have something weighty either behind them or holding down the front. Otherwise, they will tip backwards when you hit the brake pedal.
Also, the price dropped to $150 for a couple of weeks not too long ago. It's back to $200 now, but I wouldn't be surprised if it goes on sale again in the next few months, if you're willing to wait.
As for getting a shifter, you can, but it's expensive. The only one I know of that's compatible is the TH8A.
Feel free to reply here or PM me if you have any more questions. :D
I believe this is the only one that's compatable with modern Thrustmasters, They're extremely popular so the prices probably won't be much lower than $100 any time soon
If you are on PC you have a number of choices for shifters. Since all of the shifters will use USB it is seen as a separate device and you just map it.
The shifter you asked about is probably the lowest priced option but you do have more options. Here are a few to think about.
The Thrustmaster TH8A can be changed from gated to sequential in about 2 minutes.
Fanatec also has 2 shifters. A sequential and a gated/sequential version.
Grand total: $750
It's really not that far off when you consider that Fanatec is broadly considered higher quality than Thrustmaster. I was ready to go all-in on Thrustmaster before I added it all up and realized I might as well keep saving and get the Fanatec stuff.
Okay so this is what I bought
I also have
and I have a GT Omega stand
I've used them Twice
I'd be willing to give 20% off if you bought everything.
Yeah, it just plugs in via USB. This one is pricey, but supposedly very nice: https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-PC-PS3-PS4-Xbox-One/dp/B005L0Z2BQ/
sure thing, I'm in the UK so links are for UK shops
T300RS - you can choose your wheel too, little cheaper with GTE rim but ultimately the same wheel
TH8A Stick - Out of stock just about everywhere at the minute but I pre-ordered at Amazon
Wheel Stand Pro - comes with all plates and mounts for everything above
Realistically however you can get away with just the wheel on its own clamped to as desk or something if budget is an issue. the pedals it comes with are ok but I had some foam down the back of the brake to add a little resistance
I just checked Amazon UK, where I'm lurking (probably not helpful if you're across the sea), and they have them in stock. However, I couldn't believe the price. They're about 75% more expensive than when I bought mine.
Amazon has them for $113 too...
Will this work?
For reference, this is my setup, pictured is the F1 wheel, but I have the Alcantara wheel as well, so feel free to ask questions.
One of the best packages is this,
so you'd suggest the below configuration over the Logitech one? Is there a reason I should stay away from Logitech?
TH8A £99.85 including shipping @ Amazon.co.uk
Hmm what else. Try Hog Haven for an awesome relaxed camp ground. Glencoe if ya want to get wild. Beers are expensive, cocktails are even worse. Figure out what type of trip you want. I’ve had trips with lots of riding and sight seeing, trips with lots of drinking and partying. The list of shit to do there is endless. Just go and be down for whatever.
Get one of these for charging your https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0158-Disconnect-Smartphone/dp/B00DJ5KEF4
[This] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JUI7VW8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) and [this (better of the two I have installed, if I had to choose)] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HQMCSWS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) are what I have installed. I have the second item on each of my two bikes, the first is only on my V-Strom because I keep adding electrical farkles and wanted a volt meter.
Looks like the second item is listed as unavailable, at least from that seller. I will say that the second item's rubber cover is more confidence inspiring than the first. The second one also gives you the option of mounting it to your handlebars or taking the bracket off and panel-mounting it. Nice long cord, sturdy construction, comes with a mid-line tap so you can tap the + line of something that's switched so the thing turns off with the key. Don't do what I did on my SV and tap your headlight, because when you switch to the high beam you'll lose your charger. Or, do it if you have a shitty charging system, because you'll want those watts back when you're switching to high beam. Tail light is better option as the line goes live with the key and stays that way always.
If I didn't have a nice place to mount the first item, I'd probably hate it, and it also requires that you wire the thing yourself. The good thing is for a rather decent price you get a nice little volt meter for your bike's battery that's fairly accurate.
The simplest solution, especially if you already have a SAE (the battery tender plug) installed, is to get this little item, made by Battery Tender. Cheap, easy, plug and play. In fact, I just noticed it's now on Prime, so I ordered one for my gf's bike (thanks for getting me to look it up again with your question).
If you don't have a battery tender hookup installed already, well, you should get one. [Here's another handy link] (http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0123-Junior-Charger/dp/B000CITK8S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1411160513&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=battery+tender+jr) to the quite reasonably priced Battery Tender JR which makes a great trickle charger for your bike, comes with the plug (edit, for clarity it doesn't come with the USB plug but the thing you need to use the battery tender or the USB), and little jumper cables to stick under your seat.
Sorry bro, on the other coast... WA state.
I added a [pigtail] (https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1465948574&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=pigtail+sae) and got one of [these] (https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0158-Disconnect-Charger/dp/B00DJ5KEF4/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1465947776&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=sae+adaptor) to get USB charging capability.
Longsleeve was essential, since I'm usually out during the day when it's hot as hell, crazy how cold even 50mph winds can get at night.
As for sunblock, started to realize 30-60 minutes with the sun beaming on me probably wasn't the best to go unprotected. Also an extra pair of ear plugs
My bike already came with this installed, which apparently can be used if you have gear that has electric warming features
Then I got this which is basically a USB adapter, use it to charge my phone or GPS etc
Mine has a battery tender plug attached to the battery. Then there is a battery tender to USB adapter plugged into that with a USB charger cord connecting that up to the phone holder. The adapter has an on/off switch, so that it doesnt kill the battery.
Battery Tender 081-0158 Quick Disconnect Plug with USB Charger Perfect for Charging Your iPhone, iPad, iPod, GPS, Camera or Any Smartphone or Device That be Charged via USB, One Size, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DJ5KEF4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_UZJDDbG47EERC
I realized I haven't even had my Tronsmart charger 6 months. Bought in mid-November, went bad about a month ago, so 4 months of service. Sheesh. I've emailed the company about a warranty replacement.
Meanwhile, I'm seriously considering the Battery Tender-brand USB port. As sold on Amazon:
I could plug that into my existing battery tender port, and run a USB A-to-C cable up to the front.
Not the most elegant solution, but should work. Takes one more point of failure out of the chain. I won't get the full 3.0A for USB C rapid charging, but a reduced charging rate is better than none.
Sorry about the delay. I don't bring much non-obvious stuff, but here are some thoughts that I think are helpful.
If you've got more questions about a specific pack list or anything else, feel free to ask.
Battery Tender 081-0158 Black Quick Disconnect Plug with USB Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DJ5KEF4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vtUyzb2C91HVE
So you have the USB charger in the back and just run a USB cable to the front? I figured I'd just have this thing near the front because I can close it where a USB cable would be exposed to weather.
So my setup is similar to /u/RocketGrouch but a bit more rudimentary. The over view is Ram mount, usb cable, battery tender pigtail to usb connector.
Ram mount parts I used: handlebar mount, connector bracket, phone holder.
I already had a battery tender setup, so figured using this was a no brain-er.
Then I used these cloth braided cables. Didn't know how much length I'd need, but the 6.5 feet was perfect for my use. Allowed me to tuck it around my tank, under my speedo housing shroud and discretely to the handle bars without slack that would risk getting caught.
Certainly not the prettiest solution out there, but I only use this set-up sparingly and store it in my rear bag.
I'm a big fan of the Battery Tender Jr. combo with the USB adapter. Let me get some links.
You can see the Tender itself in the recommended stuff at the bottom. I just pop the USB off when I park in the garage, and connect the Tender to the same plug. Hits a lot of birds with 1 stone.
I use this with an extension cable running to the rear storage compartment to charge my phone: https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0158-Disconnect-Smartphone/dp/B00DJ5KEF4.
I have a Ram Mount gas tank mount for mounting and then one of these with a USB cable wired to it. Pair that with a 128GB SD card and you have 8 solid hours of dash cam footage with a GoPro
I have one of these that I could get this fella to connect to. Should be good enough plus it's easy to get the bike's battery charged up if you don't ride for a few weeks.
SAE connector. I use it to charge my bike or to charge my external battery so I can then charge my other, more expensive, devices.
Yeah, everyone who wants to maintain their battery (especially for storage and through cold weather) should put it on a battery tender. $40 will save you a new battery and many headaches.
Plus, you can get a usb adapter for the quick-disconenct that comes off your battery, or a voltage meter to check your battery status.
To add to the Garmin comments, I have decided to switch to a gps instead of my phone simply because I have many times found myself in an area of poor cell reception-and no cell means no GPS. This is especially irritating when I have GPS'd my way TO that spot, and now can't hit the cell tower to put in a new destination.
Anyways after much consternation I finally bought the super expensive Zumo 595LM. In this day and age it REALLY hurt my feelings to drop that kind of cash on a gps when Google Maps works so great AND has live traffic. But anyways, its hard wired to the bike and has a bonus USB plug all its own. So now I can run the GPS all day long AND leave my phone plugged in through the Garmin cord so I can run Waze. Good stuff.
A much cheaper solution (and what I have been doing up until then) is to drop 10 bucks on Amazon for a trickler charger to USB plug, THIS ONE. Pro tip, I buy a usb cord (or lightning cord for a fruit phone) and electrical tape it to this plug so the connection is nice and tight. In the past I've had the cord jiggle which was really irritating having my phone wake up and go to sleep, wake up and go to sleep. Also it eventually burned out my Amazon plug. So get a nice charging cord and dedicate it to the bike. Never a problem since. Just toss that cord/plug combo in your saddlebag with your RAM mount when not in use.
Old thread but thought I'd share in case someone finds this. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DJ5KEF4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487481829&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=battery+tender+usb&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31-cnGD8--L&amp;ref=plSrch
This is what I use to charge my phone. Plugs into your battery tender port. It generates 1amp I believe but it's enough to keep the phone charged while using it for GPS. Cheap, light, works.
EDiT: probably not useful for all the stuff you want to charge.
I must apologise I didn't think the whole cigarette lighter battery charger thing through, as it turns out this will just blow your cigarette lighter fuse, since it may be possible that the deep cycle battery would draw to much current and since cars don't limit the current that goes through your cigLight socket ( as I originally thought). You can still charge your battery through your cigarette lighter but you will have to use this thing instead and maybe this connected to the battery to be able to charge it.
So I really don't have any links to all this since this is how we used to do it with our family outings (minus the charging the battery through the cig lighter port). At this point I'm maybe confusing you and would recommend to buy Yeti Goal Zero, since I don't feel comfortable giving advice on something that I haven't personaly tried, (charge the battery through the cig lighter thingy).
Battery, case, socket, splitter, charger
While it costs more than the orion/celestron ones, the battery is of much higher quality, it's more than twice the capacity, easily replaceable parts etc.
I wouldn't cut the end off the fridge, I'd think just use one of these.
Something like this?
Thank you! This is really helpful for me. I think I'll go with your approach of using a 12v socket USB adapter (most likely in the glove box); I don't want to risk a shoddy cable giving me problems when it's really hot/cold.
I'm relatively inexperienced when it comes to electronics/car customization, so pardon any trivial questions.
All of the KT-8900Ds that I have looked at have a cigarette lighter adapter. You can buy an adapter to go between the battery and radio like this. Otherwise a bit of cut and splice may be in order. As long as you have an appropriately rated fuse, you can wire straight to the battery.
It's kinda like trying to weigh a letter for postage with a scale set up on a trampoline full of kids. It's bouncing up and down, so it looks like the letter weight is going up and down because it doesn't have a stable reference point because it's getting noise from the power line.
Laptop, you'd have to find a DC adapter for that model of laptop. Dell used to make some, not sure about other brands. They are kinda pricey considering you already have the inverter.
For phones, there are a couple different charge technologies, but they are all USB (sort of). Normal 5v USB is limited to 0.5 amps, so it charges slow. There is a higher power 5v USB, which is I believe 1.1 amps, and then there are USB charging adapters that put out somewhere around 2 amps. 2 amps is about the limit for the cable, so to charge faster than that they have what are called 'quick charge' adapters, which operate at voltage higher than 5v, either 9 or 12v depending on the device being charged.
Most of them are wall adapters, so I'm assuming that's what you mean by 'mains charging [was] faster'. But, they do make [DC quick chargers] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019OSX8UC?psc=1&amp;smid=A142BGUZC6UH73) that will charge just as fast as the wall. It will also be more efficient than firing up a 1kw inverter to step it up to mains voltage to run a 30ish watt switching power supply that converts it back down to 5/9/12v. I'm not recommending that specific model; it seems to have good reveiws but I've never used that specific one.
Just make sure your phone supports quick charge, and know that there is quick charge, qc2.0 and qc3.0. They should be backwards compatible (it would charge at the highest voltage that both support), but I'm not 100% certain on that. You'd also need some way to connect that to the battery, something like this.
/u/SirDigbyChknCasear is right, the Escort 8500 uses 12V according to the manual.
OP, I would get something like this 12V socket, figure out where the radar detector's power cord meets the vehicle's harness (presumably somewhere behind the dash), and splice this in there. Do it properly - either using solder and heat shrink or using appropriately-sized butt connectors. Don't just twist the wires together and slap on some electrical tape. From there, you can plug in the dash cam's power adapter and run its cable separately while still maintaining a fairly clean look. Depending on how the radar detector is turned on and off, you may want to add a switch somewhere.
If the dash cam has a power adapter that isn't just a standard "cigarette lighter" plug, then you can probably wire it in without the 12V socket adapter. I can't help more without more info.
I thought of getting the yeti 150. But went with this instead due to 2-3x capacity, and cost. The only thing i didn't get was an inverter, which i don't need
Links to some of the things I purchased and am happy with:
Weller WES51 Analog Soldering Station
Hakko FX-901/P Cordless Soldering Iron
NOCO GC018 12V Adapter Plug Socket with Eyelet Terminal
Carviya 12V 24V Heavy Duty 16 AWG 15A 20A Male Plug Cigarette Lighter Adapter
I got a 40ah AGM for $140 at Interstate battery not too long ago and it worked perfectly on my last tent camping trip. Got 4 nights of out it without power. No humidifier and heated tube of course. See if there is a dealer local to you. I've seen cheaper AGMs also but this is an investment if you go camping often The dealer also will charge my AGM for free every 6 mo. Get a volt meter to take charge measurements. Grab a cigarette lighter plug hardwire kit that can handle the amps you need and hardwire it to the terminals. The clamps that came with my kit are almost worthless.
I have mine hard-wired to the fuse box (on only when ignition) - I did not use a kit, rather used a piggy back fuse thingy and this for pluggin it in (cut the red-end to attach it to the tap-fuse end).
It is more stable/better quality than the kits... and has an inline fuse for added protection.
nope, snake oil.
From the description it outputs less than half what you'd use to charge your cell phone (1A-2A)
> * Output current: 270-410mAh(0.27A-0.4A)
What you want is a jump pack like this: https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-J5C09-1000-Starter-Compressor/dp/B00RZXVQSU
Charge it from a wall outlet and you'll never need to call AAA for a dead battery again
For cell phones I went down to the local hardware store and picked up a cell phone charger powered by AA batteries. I can get maybe a charge and a half on 4 AA's but I can also stock up on AA's when I need them. I prefer this over the rechargeable power banks for disasters because those rechargeable power banks will lose charge over time unless you dedicate an outlet to keeping them topped up.
Car jump starters either as lithium batteries or as those sealed lead acid batteries (Such as https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-J7CS-Battery-Starter-Compressor/dp/B00RZXVQSU/ref=lp_318336011_1_1?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484672081&amp;sr=1-1 ) were my main go to emergency power before a generator. You can use a plain old car charger on those and with the right adapters power things like laptops, phones, cable modems, and lamps (but not all at once.) I can help if you would like specifics.
STANLEY FATMAX J7CS Jump Starter: 700 Peak/350 Instant Amps, 120 PSI Air Compressor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RZXVQSU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2x1fAbR8VCPXW
Something like this.
I have A stanley battery jumper https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RZXVQSU/ref=twister_B01BV6GSUW?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
it has a built in air pressure sensor and air pump. It's never the same as what my car shows (1-2 points off) but It's good when I want to make sure all my tires are the same pressure/use as reference, then I turn on my car and check
With that being said, if I get one of those little separate gauges, are they more accurate than either my car or battery jumper?
I have this combo battery booster and tire pump. Good for jump starts, and keeping the tires pumped up.
A portable battery starter (plus compressor, and light) can be a nice self-help tools for a guys trunk kit!
Is this a good one? I could buy 2, maybe 3 if needed. What are your thoughts?
120VAC Charger, 12V/USB out, regulated to 13.8VDC @ 350-700A. $40.
350 instant/700 peak battery Amp jump starter
120 psi compressor with backlit gauge
Usb port and 12v power outlet for charging personal electronics devices
High-Power 270-degree pivoting led light
Reverse polarity led indicator and audible alarm
This is what i use to monitor my power usage. It has an alarm feature that goes off when you hit a predetermined/adjustable voltage level.
bayite DC 6.5-100V 0-100A LCD Display Digital Current Voltage Power Energy Meter Multimeter Ammeter Voltmeter with 100A Current Shunt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013PKYILS?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Something to consider with a PVC shower, is supplementing your heat. Best way I've found to do so is to use a heating element like this one and couple it with a temp controller. This runs off 12v DC so you'd have to take into account electrical capacity, but I figure I could run that while on the move so the vehicle alternator takes the load, or from an onsite generator if you're in a fixed location.
Disclaimer: I have not run this yet, I'm still in the planning phases of a PVC shower. This was found through research.
Ive found this on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/bayite-6-5-100V-Display-Multimeter-Voltmeter/dp/B013PKYILS/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
Anyone have thoughts on this? Ive you read the reviews, in reference to van power, they're generally positive.
There are a bunch of devices like this. For ac and dc. Amaz, ebay, etc
My solar controller gives me the data via the web. I use one of the above for monitoring what goes to the inverter. i could put in a ac ammeter. hmmm. Probably will at some point.
you would put one between your solar controller and batteries ... and another between battery and inverter.
not sure how to send the data to the web.
Good stuff, thank you all. One more question though, regarding the battery monitor, in order to monitor the discharge rate and not go below 50%, do I need a victron BMV-700 ($150) or can I just use this bayite meter:
bayite DC 6.5-100V 0-100A LCD Display Digital Current Voltage Power Energy Meter Multimeter Ammeter Voltmeter with 100A Current Shunt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013PKYILS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RRC2CbRANNKNH
That's what I used. I disassembled my power cord where it meets the wires coming out of the power supply. I had the current ring between the power wire. Was pretty simple to do and it keeps track of current and power and total power used.
You'll be surprised that the dial to output won't be linear.
Battery Meter. Ive been toying with making one of these for a friend after I finish upgrading my camper. Someone else may be able to offer some more insight.
cool I got this https://www.amazon.com/bayite-6-5-100V-Display-Multimeter-Voltmeter/dp/B013PKYILS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482213946&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=shunt+12v
Added some monitors and shunts to the previous setup. What do you think?
Terminating 10# stuff
and terminal fuse
Look at this one also. Voltmeter.
Btw, i did buy this device with my system to monitor battery levels and draw. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013PKYILS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Fridge consumption should be way under that. It sits idle most of the day. The 5.5a is a max rate I believe. At the bottom of this article, they address it a bit. https://www.4xoverlandadventures.com/2017-winter-fridge-shootout/3/
In theory, the solar should be more than enough I think. I think I am going to buy a meter or two so I can measure amp draw from the accessories and another to measure panel production. I wish there was a unit that just displayed both but I don't see one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B013PKYILS/ref=pd_aw_sim_469_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=HG4PM9RREG7NGDCR0Z0V this is the dc ver but you wouldint need a 100 amp one
Hope you get started, not near you unfortunately. However, I'd really recommend you pick up a booster pack like this one: https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GB40-UltraSafe-Lithium-Starter/dp/B015TKUPIC
I have one and, since I drive old... er classic cars, it's been a lifesaver.
You can get lithium battery ones now, like this. They last for months without needing charging, and more conveniently, fit neatly in the glovebox. Naturally doesn't help if you need the air compressor component.
my friends have this guy and apparently it works well enough - https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GB40-UltraSafe-Lithium-Starter/dp/B015TKUPIC/
I also have this one for tires and it works remarkably well for being so cheap - way easier to deal with than going to gas stations - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L9WSTEG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I have a small tote bag w/ a change of clothes + contact lenses and spare meds just in case as well, my lexus came w/ a first aid kid so im trusting that'd cover anything else
Sorry to necropost, but I found this thread from google seeking a totally different goal, but my needs and yours might align.
Consider a car battery jump-starter, a unit which is a battery pack big enough and strong enough to produce enough amps to jump start a dead car. These big batteries can be wall-recharged (or slowly solar recharged), and can be used directly as a battery for your cellphone and lights (skipping the engine battery all together). Like https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GB40-UltraSafe-Lithium-Starter/dp/B015TKUPIC
For your case, you should never touch the engine battery and buy yourself a superior battery to run your life off of, right? And buying a jump-start battery gives you the freedom of even using your main life battery to fix your engine battery in times of distress.
I got a Noco GB40 from Canadian Tire. Ive used it to jump two cars for a total of 7 jumps. Ive only recharged it once now. It cost more, $125, and only has one USB port, but its been great https://www.amazon.ca/NOCO-GB40-UltraSafe-Lithium-Starter/dp/B015TKUPIC
I wouldn't trust it to hold a charge more than 6 months without being plugged into either 12V or the house.
As far as how the marketing nonsense goes, something like this is probably the minimum size I would look for: https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GB40-UltraSafe-Lithium-Starter/dp/B015TKUPIC
It says 1000A but I would put the figure at about 200 amps. If you watched AvE's or Motoyam's reviews it looks like the '7000J/3S' is probably the true figure. The 1000A is completely bogus. Simply doing the math:
Current Voltage = Power
Power Time = Energy
Current Voltage Time = Energy
Current 12V 3s = 7000J, solving gives 194 amps.
$96. At Amazon: NOCO Genius Boost Plus GB40 1000 Amp 12V UltraSafe Lithium Jump Starter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015TKUPIC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_koGlzbJ63TFVE
Yeah looks good and I'd like one or the bigger ones as my cheapo charger stopped working but it was a plug in and the ones for the road are batteries included like this which before lithium were much bigger and wore out quicker.
That one is not a jump starter. That is a trickle battery charger designed to slowly charge a battery over night. Jump starters contain internal lithium ion batteries (in most cases) and can start the engine without an external power source. A trickle charger will require you to plug into a wall and charge the battery to capacity over a set amount of time. (MFR specific).
This is the one I have.
I thought it was a typo.... it's not: https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GB40-UltraSafe-Lithium-Starter/dp/B015TKUPIC
Another reason I'm probably stressed over nothing - this was the battery jumper I used, and it states that there's no worry for incorrect connections.
Use this for jump starter. Works great: NOCO Boost Plus GB40 1000 Amp 12V UltraSafe Lithium Jump Starter
Air compressor: Kensun Tire Inflator AC/DC Portable Air Compressor
Noco is undefeated
If your goal is emergency starting of a vehicle do yourself a favor and buy a ready made unit... something like this...
Supercaps are not meant for that... they are meant as an alternative to a NiMH battery in a power fail setup.. i.e. as an array controller backup battery... but unlike the battery they charge from empty in a couple of minutes... verse 7~8 hours for the battery... they typically are just holding memory on so drain very slowly...
If you stack them up you must use a balanced charge circuit that does each cell separately and monitors as it does it... get it wrong and you either cause a whole lot of heat or you can make the battery rupture and catch fire...
OK, here's an approach that should work and has worked for others:
Use a TP-Link HS100 Smart WiFi/Alexa-enabled plug driving an isolated relay, e.g.. https://amazon.com/Enclosed-AC-Protection-Bounce-Terminals/dp/B017743I7S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483241234&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=120v+Relay+switch
Here is a quote from a reviewer who controlled a fireplace:
>Does exactly what it's supposed to. I used this with a TP-Link Smart Plug to allow me to use my Amazon Echo turn my gas fireplace on and off. The project took literally 5 minutes to hook up and works great. If I were going to pick any nit, I wish they had a version with a solid state relay so it doesn't "click" on and off, but that's really minor, and for this price, it can't be beat.Does exactly what it's supposed to. I used this with a TP-Link Smart Plug to allow me to use my Amazon Echo turn my gas fireplace on and off. The project took literally 5 minutes to hook up and works great. If I were going to pick any nit, I wish they had a version with a solid state relay so it doesn't "click" on and off, but that's really minor, and for this price, it can't be beat.
Setup the smart plug at an AC outlet close to the FP. Then plug the AC cord that comes with the relay module into the smart plug. The two wires that control the FP connect to the Gnd and NO contacts of the relay. Those two wires are very low voltage and current ("Millivolt circuit") that turn on the fire when connected. They should never contact a 120V circuit, which is why you need the isolated relay module.
If you are up to doing a bit of wiring you can put together a rig that will work.
To do so you need to get a powered relay. There may be some on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Enclosed-AC-Protection-Bounce-Terminals/dp/B017743I7S/ Maybe something similar to this one but maybe one that already has a 220 plug on it.
Then use a iDevices or iHome plug to power it.
If not sure about wiring get an electrician to handle it.
Not quite a standard way of doing it but it would work.
You can connect it to an AC relay.
I use mine to open and close my garage door.
This opens/closes a relay that you can wire into a contact sensor of some sort. Plug it into the clapper and you can do whatever automation you want with it. Normally use these on control4 systems, so not sure what zwave/zigbee/usb contact sensors are out there.
What makes Nold interesting is the ability to control 2 doors as well as attach a magnetic sensor to let you know the open/close state. This is why I loved the WeMo Maker so much.
If you want an inexpensive garage door opener, use this with a WiFi outlet:
Enclosed AC/DC Power Relay with Protection & De-Bounce. Screw Terminals. 120V Trigge... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017743I7S/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_Zi7KBb1KYGJB2
I did the same thing. Your favorite alexa-enabled wifi plug and one of these should do the trick.
I use a Koogeek switch with this relay plugged in:
Enclosed AC/DC Power Relay with Protection & De-Bounce. Screw Terminals. 120V Trigger Input. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017743I7S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xVgRzbR56SQAV
The relay senses the 120v and closes the circuit of the two wires from your fireplace. In my case the fireplace had an external thermostat connected to it. I took out the two wires from the thermostat switch and connected those two wires to the relay. Now when the relay senses current it closes the circuit of the fireplace switch but without adding any electricity to it.
I'm still in the middle of adding a filament sensor to my OctoPrint setup so I may be missing something, but I think you should be able to use that plugin to achieve pausing a print when the power disappears. The 'Filament Sensor Reloaded' plugin just looks at a GPIO line that you select to determine if filament is present or missing and you can pause the print. If you connect the GPIO to a voltage from the same source as the printer, then you can detect the power removed from the printer and pause. A simple way to do that would be a USB power adapter with a voltage divider from 5V to 3.3V or you could use this power detector - https://www.amazon.com/Enclosed-AC-Protection-Bounce-Terminals/dp/B017743I7S/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1506368549&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=iot+relay#Ask
For $9, I'd probably buy the power detector.
Like I said, I haven't experimented with OctoPrint pausing yet, but I would expect the same behavior as pressing the pause button.
If your UPS can provide the signal (most can), you should definitely go for that.
Otherwise, I've used this successfully in the past: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017743I7S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Super easy, plug and play into the GPIO.
Just as an update and thanks for all the feedback.
I bought this: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B017743I7S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hooked up the fireplace switch cables to the ON and the COMMON wire. Plugged it into the smart outlet and then to the wall. Works perfectly and it all fits under the fireplace with the rest of the controls.
Buy a WeMo then power a relay like this to convert the Ac WeMo to a DC switch. I use this combo with smarthings to open my garage door.
That relay is a nice looking device, good find. They also make a cheaper version, http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017743I7S/ref=pd_aw_sim_23_of_6?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=51RYb%2Ba%2BayL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_SL500_SR100%2C64_&amp;refRID=0HWM3SV21K3EEQT2B97X
I'm using one of THESE along with a MonoPrice garage door Z-Wave tilt sensor, and an old Z wave outlet I had laying around. Together, I built a template cover device out of it. The tilt sensor is the feedback and the open/close commands are scripts. Each open/close script basically turns on the Z wave switch (and therefore powers the relay), then turns it off after 3 seconds. I added conditions inside each script as well. For open, it ensures someone is home and the alarm is not on, otherwise it won't work. There is also a 30 second delay, then a condition that the door is actually open or close and a notification if the proper position is not met.
I can try to post the config later on if you want it. Don't have access to it right now.
Just use https://www.amazon.fr/Permatex-81150-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL2RI2/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518366744&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=permatex
I use permatex on my stabs, works like a charm
Extreme Fluoro used to be recommended, but people found out that it's shit and dries after a few weeks
I can't find Super Lube easily in my area, so I am wondering if this one might be used instead:
edit: Maybe this one would be good too? https://www.amazon.fr/Finish-Line-Extreme-Fluoro-Huile/dp/B002L5UL92/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518366940&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=finish+line+extreme
edit 2: Or this one? https://www.amazon.fr/Permatex-81150-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL2RI2/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518366744&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=permatex
Argh. I am lost in sea of information about mech keyboards (aka, /r/mechanicalkeyboards Wiki ;)
Would something like this work?
Also what about dielectric silicone grease?
I wish people knew what that was for.
Noalox is for aluminum. That is what the "al" stands for. No - aluminum - oxidation.
It will do very little for your copper mod.
Please use some dielectric grease. It is nonconductive and will provide extremely great protection and thread things nicely.
Any auto parts store will have it, or you can just get a small tube online, like so:
(English isn't my first language so i'm sorry if there are some errors)
I just bough a poker 3 and the spacebar is squeaky as hell, so I was about to buy this, but I've read that it will crumble in a month or so and my only other option is this one, but I don't know if it can be used on stabilizers,so which one should i buy?
I used Permatex's Dielectric Grease (Amazon link). That's way more than I'll need (smaller amount here).
Here's /u/ripster55 's [guide on Keyboard Lubes] (http://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/1dzvs9/keyboard_lube_science/) if you have any questions. I used this when I first lubed mine.
Questions about liner material and lube...
For liner material, what acoustic differences am I going to find between: neoprene, sorborthane, and rather generic looking "foam" rolls? They're all pretty much the same thickness, about 2-3 mm.
For lube, I'm looking at: Permatex dielectric grease, krytox 205 grade 2, trybosis 3204 and trybosis 3203. What would be good for stabs, what would be good for linears, and what would be good for tactiles? And if possible, is there anything that's a good "all-arounder"? Aka, something that could easily work for both stabs and switches.
The small rubber of dielectric grease, €6 and change
This turned out more expensive than I expected because of the tools. Can somebody confirm that I'm buying the right stuff for the job? Am I forgetting anything?
Doesn't have to be Amazon, it's just convenient. 1994 Miata.
Thanks for taking your time and writing down some quick tips! I didn't really realize about the sidebar. I'll have a browse through it again!
I think these tips will be super helpful. For my keyboard stabilizers would [this] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000AL2RI2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A3W0W1W3AIWFOT&amp;psc=1) lube do? The one you linked wasn't available in the UK.
I've not done lots of soldering before so I'll definitely practice before actually trying it on for the keyboard. I've got some hardware for another project I was working on that needs some soldering done but haven't got the time yet to start that.
[Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 3 oz. Tube] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL8VD2/)
Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 3 oz. Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ld8kDbQ54DWYW
I'd just get it on amazon, http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/
Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease Tube was a suggestion I got from a YouTuber and it works really well so far. A bit expensive but you don't use a lot so lasts forever.
Also for plastic on plastic lube (the stems of the stabilizers, do not use inside of switches) this: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B002L5UL92/?coliid=I3VPHHQD2B8350&colid=J58MB1DVXYQQ&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
I modified mine by taking out the magnet the first day I got it (and yes it does void the warranty).
I ordered this lube to modify it as well as some other peripherals, but it isn't that expensive (considering the cost of the trackball).
I definitely would recommend the modification and lubrication of the device, it made the trackball feel like it costs, rather than feel like a $50 toy.
Edit: I didn't just use the dri film above as lubricant. I also used some permatex grease I had lying around to make it seem like a heavier scroll wheel, rather than a light plastic one.
Try local at auto parts stores. The other favorite is Super Lube 21030 but people on discord have been grumbling about it drying out, saying use 92003 or Krytox 205. I personally don't have much experience with lubing stabilizers.
would this lube be fine for lubing cherry stabs? or finish line?
I use dielectric grease it was recommended in my owners manual of my car. I wipe it on the rubber molding that is either on the door or the door frame. Apply a fine coat with a rag, removing any excess.
This is just extra info as I don't know where the arcing is coming from: I've read in an old forum post that if the anode cap isn't secured for whatever reason there can be arcing. When I reattached the last cap I used a bead of this grease underneath for a good seal:
There has been a lot of good advice. One I can offer is, disconnect the battery, open the fuse panel, and spray QD electronic cleaner in there. https://www.amazon.com/CRC-5103-Quick-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000BXOGNI
If the carpet got soaked and the foot wells are wet, you may want to think about pulling the seats and the carpet out and letting it dry, as anyplace that water pools may lead to rust at worst, or a moldy smell eventually.
Any exposed electrical connection can be given a quick covering of di-electric grease after they are cleaned: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497446596&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=di-electric+grease
Any metal on metal contact areas that got wet, such as hinges, seat sliders, etc hit with some WD-40 to displace water and prevent rust.
Pull the horn fuse for now to stop it from sounding all the time. The headliner removal is a bitch, since you need to remove all the pillar trim, which may mean removing seat belt shoulder bolts, which normally requires a big torx socket bit. If it is a hot dry day, unplug the battery and leave your car fully open (all doors, hatch) all day. It will really help drying it out.
Would this product work?
This stuff. Apply a thin coating to all areas of friction. Enjoy in good health.
I've seen ripster link to this lube in the past. Might want to check that out.
I got a tube of this from Amazon (it's a ton). Not sure if it's the best out there but its dielectric and the price is right.
For stabs (stab housing/stem) your best bet is krytox 205, you can get a half oz tube for 20 bucks on amazon.. That is going to yield better results, trust me..
205 is also amazing on linears.. I wouldnt use anything less or any other brand, especially a 'custom mix' that has oil mixed in...oil doesnt last as long.. you want grease because it doesnt have the fluidity of oil, lasts much longer..
For tactiles/clicky 202-204 depending on spring weight
For the stab bar inserts
> Dielectric grease
Thanks, would this product be fine?
When I got my old outback I went out and played in the mud and whenever I went through a big puddle the engine would miss a beat every once and a while for a minute or two. So I went through the entire engine and put dielectric grease in all the electrical plugs and that solved my problem. Maybe something to try
Yeah I've got some stab lube I've been using that seems alright. It's a small grey tube I got from Amazon. Might be called permatex?
Edit: I think it's this stuff
Sorry this comment is so long haha. I could go on for hours about these stupid switches.
I mean, I have some SKBM White Alps(these are slit-less, like your damped whites) that still feel wonderful(a far cry from SKCM Whites, but still), and were very clean. I'd imagine a cleaning and a lube will help them greatly. End of life SKCM is still better than any current Matias or the most recent SKBM Alps that Matias are based off of.
If you used Tribosys 3204 on them, that could've contributed to the worse feeling as well. I personally haven't lubed any of my Alps switches besides a bit of dielectric grease to eliminate spring ping, and that's a 100% worthwhile thing to do to every switch ever imo. Alps switches much prefer dry lubes, and wet lubes like Tribosys or any other MX suitable lube makes them feel goofy.
Denture tabs can be found at any store, and they're made for dentures, but their oxidization works wonders on a whole lot of different things, just no metal. Think of them as OxiClean(the laundry kind) bit for plastics.
Basically, just take only the top housing and slider(don't forget to take out the dampening rubber tabs) and drop them in the denture tab solution, blowing the dust out first with canned air or a DataVac. Let them sit in there for a while, maybe not 12 hours for only a couple testers, but still a decent amount of time. Once they're done, just squeeze a tiny(barely coat the spring) bit of dielectric grease on each end of the spring and put em back together. If you're going to dry lube them, I wouldn't be able to give advice, as I haven't dry lubed, but I'm sure you can find a tutorial somewhere. They should be silky smooth after that.
As far as what you'll like in the Alps spectrum, it is very difficult to base it off of MX switches, as none have really done a good job at recreating Alps' feels. If you like tactility, I think Alps are the way to go, but for linears, MX are your better option. The designs of each switch are inherently tactile or linear respectively, so neither is a flat out better switch. Alps tactility(though I've heard the oranges feel a whole lot different, and I want some so bad!) is what you'll get from the white damped switches, as long as you can get them smooth, it's rounded and... elegant?(goofy word to use, but it makes sense) If you find buckling springs too loud, you won't enjoy Alps clicky switches. They're loud, but it's such a good sound. Honestly, if your favorite switch is Topre, you may like the cream and white damped more than most, as long as your examples are good. These are the closest to rubber dome I've personally felt in a switch, but they a still are noticeably mechanical.
yeah I can't imagine the dielectric grease I used for my stabs flowing out of them, it's very thick. Here's the one I use.
The original terminals on the HO are cheap shit. I had to literally hammer mine on and use dialectic grease to get a good connection.
Tighten them as best you can, then use a socket of suitable size the get equal pressure when lightly tapping down until they have no wiggle left. Don't smash them on as you may break something. And use dialectic grease.
$6.99 on Amazon
For the stems, I use Krytox 1514. You can get a 3ml vial at mehkee for not much. (That's enough to lube all the switches on a full size board, but it's the smallest amount you'll find.)
For the wires (where the metal wires meet the plastic stabilizer) I use delectric grease that I got from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AL8VD2/
As for how to do it, there are videos on youtube that show you, but basically you use the thinner Krytox on the black plastic where the stem rubs against the housing. (Wherever there's friction). The thicker grease goes where the metal meets the plastic and keeps it from rattling around. Make sure you use dielectric grease because it's non-conductive. You don't want to short out anything on your PCB.
I actually didn't have that problem with mine :/ My only problem was the stabs wobbling like crazy, but i'r pretty sure some nice lube will fix that. I got this from amazon. Probably wayyy too much for my needs but at least i know i will never run out haha
I have some impressions after using the keyboard for a day:
Battery tender JR on amazon is probably the most common and highest rated battery tender available.
I am not seeing how this is any better or cheaper then just getting a second tender. If you want a project they have at it, but the simple solution is a second tender.
Battery Tender 021-0123 Battery Tender Junior 12V, 0.75A Battery Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CITK8S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qEgJAbVJNNSB0
You can get these at pretty much any hardware or autoparts store. They aren't for recharging a dead battery but they will keep it topped up during the off season. I would also recommend getting some terminal protective spray to help limit terminal corrosion.
CRC 05046 Technician Grade Battery Terminal Protector - 7.5 Wt Oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CIPUNC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bKgJAb9PBFC9P
Very informative, thank you. Would a battery tender https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0123-Junior-Charger/dp/B000CITK8S?ie=UTF8&amp;redirect=true fully charge the battery or would I have to opt for normal battery charger.
Glad I could help! For future reference you should buy a Battery Tender and hook it up if the bike won't be used for extended periods of time (over 2-3 weeks).
put the battery on a trickle charger.. that is really it. or start it every week.
Just make sure your bike is a 12V system. It most likely is.
I haven't tried. Mine gets driven even less than that but I keep it plugged in to one of these:
Is this it?
I use this to keep my vehicle's battery fresh:
It's all automatic, there isn't anything to adjust and you could keep it on your battery indefinitely.
I've stored a bunch of cars.
Buy a battery tender:
Make sure it has a full tank of fuel.
And that's about it if all you're doing is storing it for a winter.
A cover is a nice-to-have to keep it from collecting a huge layer of dust/grime and to protect it from a winter of people brushing against it if it's in the flow of traffic.
Do not put it on jack stands. Dangling wheels aren't good for all the rubber bits in your suspension. Just make sure there's air in your tires and they'll be fine after seasonal storage.
Battery Tender Jr.! I leave my KTM on trickle with this little thing and it's fantastic.
Here is an amazon link for you, although keep in mind it's amazon.ca - https://www.amazon.ca/Battery-Tender-021-0123-Junior-Charger/dp/B000CITK8S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487196980&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=battery+tender+jr
I bought this one on Amazon
Battery tender Junior. https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0123-Junior-Charger/dp/B000CITK8S
It's the easiest way to trickle charge, and they and can be had around 15-20 lots of places, $24 with prime shipping is pretty solid, but shop around, you may find one locally.
First try buying one of these. I leave it charging overnight maybe once a week in the winter and never had any issues.
To do what? Charge the battery or jump start it? Yes it is, on the 12v setting.
To keep it topped off over winter? No, it is absolutely the wrong thing to do.
You don't want a charger or a trickle charger for that purpose.
You need a battery tender for that purpose.
I have several of these and they work well to maintain the batteries over the winter or long periods of not using them:
This is the one I have: https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0123-Junior-Charger/dp/B000CITK8S
I think I got it off Revzilla when they had a sale.
I just had this happen on my KTM 690. Turn the bike on, but no fuel pump sound when restarting from hot. It would also happen when the bike was sitting in the hot sun. You should get a new fuel pump. I bought the CA cycleworks pump that is superior to the OEM POS. Here it is for your bike My bike runs waaaay better now. Pulls harder and smoother all around, not to mention it doesnt have a problem starting anymore.
Also get this battery tender if you want one, but thats not your problem.
Is this what you're talking about? If so, then way cheaper.
I have a short commute. It's like 8 minutes.
The NCY CDI is a like a new computer brain for your Ruckus and removes the stock rev limiter. Allows you to push the rpms past the factory limitation. I don't know much about it other than that. I'll let others with more experience chime in. They're ~$100. I'd ask if he still has the OEM.
Trickle charger just keeps your battery charged when not in use. If you don't use the ruckus daily, your battery can deplete and then won't start with the electronic ignition (same thing happens to riding lawn mowers). A battery tender costs ~$25.
looks like always removed the front plastic and installed some pegs.
mileage seems about right for the age. Price seems high to me but it's heavily dependent on your market.
The 12-bs battery is taller, so make sure you have enough room for it. It is a stronger battery, though.
The 9-bs is what the smaller scooters use, I think. But 10.4 volts is dead. It might charge back up with a good, plug-in battery charger. This is the charger I recommend: http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0123-Junior-Charger/dp/B000CITK8S
It's very easy to do.
If you start hooking multiple batteries together you have a very good chance of ending up with a fried charger, battery, or both. You can buy chargers with leads for more than one battery, but they are significantly more expensive than just buying one for each for some reason.
Follow-up I guess, I have a battery tender/charger for my motorcycle, like this. Would this be able to charge that battery? I want to say yes, but battery charging has always been something of a mystery to me
EDIT: actually, this battery may not be chargeable
Took a voltmeter to it, it's reading 13.98 volts so I dont think it's needing charging
Anything wrong with the Battery Tender Jr? Battery Tender 12 Volt Junior Automatic Battery Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CITK8S/
Chargers are not expensive. This one is all of $25 (https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0123-Junior-Charger/dp/B000CITK8S) if you have a lead-acid battery. The lithium jobber is prolly not much more. They are TOTALLY worth it. I hook-up my bike to one every night.
Three forevers ago, when I was a broke student, I still saved-up to buy one. A $25 charger v. a $60 battery (at the time) is an easy equation.
yeah that what i was going to reccommend. So if my math is correct (probably not). to run that stereo for 3 hours you would need a 9 amp batter at 12 volts. So to not destroy the battery lets round that up to 27-45 would be better. Then you would only need a small inverter and charger.
Alright thanks. I'll look into buying a trickle charger. Any reason jump starting with a car wouldn't work?
This charger from Amazon decent? I know it's 12V, just didn't know if 750 mA was enough. Does show good for lawn mowers though.
I used this guy here.
$67 for a charger?! Screw that. The battery seems ok, 120 for a 65Ah is alright, I think mine was like 90 for 75Ah though. Get something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000CITK8S/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1462148457&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=battery+tender+jr&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51BIMpwea9L&amp;ref=plSrch
Btw, will you ever do multi night use? If so, you may want to consider a larger capacity, like 100+ Ah.
> leave the multimeter on it and read it while you activate the starter.
It drops to 5 volts when I hit the starter, so it looks like my battery (11 Amp-Hour) partially drained over the winter. I just ordered this 12v/0.75amp tender. How long do you think it should take to recharge?
Yup! New battery and you're good to go. Let us know how it went
Edit: buy this and hook it up to your battery, charge it when you don't ride for a while. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000CITK8S/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1457969624&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=battery+tender&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51BIMpwea9L&amp;ref=plSrch
Don't buy from common-motor. They're terribly overpriced because they pretend they have exclusive items. You probably want a Motobatt MB12U depending on your bike. As far as tenders, amazon has them for under $20. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CITK8S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
As others have said: don't skip the battery tender. Get something like this and leave it plugged in all winter. This will keep your battery in good shape.
Don't do this, and there's a good chance come spring that battery won't hold a charge as well (or at all) anymore.
On or off the bike doesn't matter.
I'm a big fan of the old standby. Deltran Battery Tender. They make a nice small one that Amazon sells for about $25. Park the bike, plug it in, and you are good to go until the next time you ride. sauce
Hella Supertones, like the other guy said. I have them on my NA, they're awesome. A ton louder and attention getting than the stock "meep meep" horn they came with, even though mine are in the stock horn location behind the bumper.
Subaru drivers seem to like these
Found those horns much cheaper: http://www.amazon.com/HELLA-003399801-Supertone-High-Bracket/dp/B000CRZXPI
I know they've got the Subaru stigma attached to them, but Hella's SuperTone horns are an amazing upgrade for not a ton of money.
2014 S+ here, One of the first things I did was upgrade the horn. I didn't find it too difficult to do myself.
If I remember right, connected the power straight to the battery positive and grounded out to the body. When mounting them I used two existing threaded holes with only having to add a second bolt.
Makes a big difference with other cars being able to hear me. I've even seen a couple in cars jump a little when I use it.
I use these and they seem to get the job done very efficiently.
Get some Hella, Super Tones. Everyone will hear the damn train horn from hell.
Actually they're aftermarket horns haha https://www.amazon.com/HELLA-003399801-Supertone-High-Bracket/dp/B000CRZXPI
2014 here also. I rarely use my horn, so it isn't a huge deal to me, but I agree it's very weak. I've considered going with these: Hella horn.
Not too expensive, and would be a fun little project. I think these are one of the most common that people upgrade to.
GOOD SHIT MAN. here you go.
If you're not as tech savvy like me, I also got the subimod harness as well! it's expensive as fuck but made the install 10000000% easier. I didn't have any of the tools either. its a literal plug and play. lets just put it this way. it took longer to take the front bumper off TBH. LOL
Put them on BLAST!
Looks like Hella Supertones (aftermarket horns).
Sounds like it's time to upgrade your friend's horns to these.
My supertones are used almost exclusively for cabs. That, or idiots doing insane things around the Tim Horton's at Marion and Archibald (which should be deemed a public safety hazard and closed).
HELLA 003399801 Supertone 12V High Tone/Low Tone Twin Horn Kit with Bracket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CRZXPI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ibSYzbX5ZVQYM
Got two. Duel tones, one does a high pitch and one does a lower pitch.
I'm pretty sure this is the one I bought: HELLA 003399801 Supertone 12V High Tone/Low Tone Twin Horn Kit with Bracket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CRZXPI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CIBWzbM36B7E0
That's actually a really good price for them too.
I was wondering too and googled a few of the mods he listed below, looks like they're Hella Supertones
Kinda depends what you want to plug into the 12v outlet and what’s already on the circuit you’re tapping into.
If you’re just plugging in a cell phone charger or something then 5amp is fine.
If you don’t have anything plugged into the existing lighter socket plug, that’s the best one to use.
Ideally you should use a fused ‘add a fuse’ device that lets you keep the same fuse for the existing circuit and add a separate fused circuit off the vehicle accessory circuit.
I did a semi-hardwire install on my 2008 Civic. It is very simple.
Do you have any technical, hands-on skills?
Buy 1 of each. You can buy in AutoZone too.
Find a switched source (or constant if you have a camera that triggers when you are parked) using your multimeter, tap into it and route the wires. Should take 1-3 hours depending on your skills. DO NOT use the ScotchLok Taps.
You pull radio out and plug the unit inline with antenna and get power from the fuse block. https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-BP-HHH-ATM-Add-A-Fuse/dp/B000GKEXK2. It's not too hard.
Chances are that it does and you just don't know how to access it.
Use a voltmeter and go down the line of fuses until you find one that meets the "ignition on" criteria. Then, add this.
I have an aftermarket radio so I have a remote coming off of that, but, I did have to run a switched power to the radio and used an Add a Fuse coming off of something that turns on with the car. This is an actual crappy picture of it.
****Do any of this at your own risk or hire a professional to do it for you.***
Here are the parts I ordered to put mine together. I'm posting this bc of PMs.
Mobius or [Cheaper Mobius but longer wait from China] (http://www.banggood.com/Mobius-Action-Camera-1080P-HD-Mini-Sports-Camera-Wide-Angle-Edition-p-917817.html) I wanted the Wide Angle Lens for a better shot
Capacitor You don't want the battery sitting in the sun. A capacitor can handle it. So you replace the battery completely with this capacitor
Windshield Mount My mobius came with a mounting bracket that fits on this mount. The mount itself is very small, but the 3M sticker is very strong.
Hardwire Kit When hard wiring this in to the car via fuse box, this knocks the voltage down from 12v to 5v, which is what the camera needs. I used some wire strippers to expose about 5" of the red and black cables. Then stripped about an inch off each cable to expose the actual wire. The red wire goes in to the add-a-circuit mentioned below, then you crimp it closed with pliers (wasn't super easy, I must be weak). You partially unscrew a metal bolt that is attached to the metal car frame as a ground ( I used the one on top of my fuse box).
USB to Mini-USB This connects from the hardwire kit to the camera or 90 degree elbow mentioned next, for a better angle. If you are setting up the auto record when external power is on, which is what you want to do for a dash cam, you need to cut a piece of electrical tape width-wise and cover the two middle pins inside the USB cable. This is because the two middle pins (2 and 3) are data pins. Leaving those exposed makes the camera think its connected to a computer and will only do data transferring. By covering them, it only get power from pins 1 and 4 and doesn't think it's connected to a computer and will actually record.
Right Angle Mini-USB to Mini-USB Adapted This just helped keep the USB cable from sticking out too much (better angle)
Add-a-circuit This is the ATO (bigger fuse), but I ended up using the ATM (Mini) because my car has both and the fuse I wanted to use ended up being a Mini. It'd be best to look through your fuse diagram and find something non-vital (meaning don't tap in to a fuse that controls ABS or airbags, etc) and switchable (meaning it only comes on when the car turns on. You don't want the camera running 24/7), figure out what type of fuse it is, and buy that size. I ended up getting my new add-a-circuit (Littlefuse) from Oreilly auto parts for $6.99 and it came with 3, 4, 7.5, and 10A fuses. Also take note of the amperage (Never use a higher amp fuse than your add-a-circuit supports because the wire gauge may not support it and melt/burn. When adding the circuit, I removed the original fuse from the fuse box, a 10A fuse and put it the first slot(my add-a-circuit supports up to 10A) and for the 2nd slot, I used a 3A fuse because the camera and radar don't draw much. You don't want to use a higher amp fuse than necessary. Also, in my car 2011 JettaSportwagen, the add-a-circuit points down or it doesn't work. Make sure it's plugged in the correct direction or it won't do anything
32GB MicroSD Card Works fine, just make sure to format it through the camera.
Unofficial but awesome Mobius Configuration Tool Use the tooltips(hover over each option) to figure out what each things does. I set mine to autorecord when external power or the button are pushed.
You can find a lot of info here: dashcamtalk.com
To summarize the connections are:
Choose a fuse from your car's fuse diagram (non-essential and switchable), pull it, place it in the correct slot of the add-a-circuit (don't go to higher amps than is supported), plug in a fuse from the add-a-circuit kit in to the other slot to protect your camera (I used a 3A), strip the hardwire kit's cables mentioned above, put the red cable (+) from the hard wire kit in the the red end of the add-a-circuit and crimp it closed, attach the black cable (-) to a screw attached to the metal car frame, tape the two middle pins (2 and 3) in the USB cable with electrical tape, plug the USB in to the female USB on the hardwire kit, run the USB cable from the fuse box around the edges of your cars trim, up by the rearview mirror, attach the right-angle mini-usb adapter, choose where you want to mount the camera (make sure to check using the USB plugged in and camera mounted to the mount, in case it bumps the rearview mirror) (I held it on the windshield about where I thought I wanted it (to behind and to the right of the rearview mirror and took some test footage, watched it on a computer, decided it looked ok, pulled the sticker cover and attached it), clean your windshield with glass cleaner, attach the mount.
I have gone through a few cams in my 2013 and have helped install in a friend's 2015, installation is basically the same. We tucked the power cable in the gap between the windshield and the headliner and ran it toward the driver side door. Pop off the driver side A-pillar cover and run the cable behind the airbag and down toward the dash. At this point you are only about a foot away from your fuse box. Get a Fuse Tap and plug it into your "Accessory" fuse slot (should be a map on the fuse panel door). Splice the positive wire from your camera into the Fuse Tap and and the negative to the frame as ground. The camera will start up any time your key is in the "Accessory" or "ON" positions.
The one you linked is to keep those chimes and radio on until the door is opened.
If you don't care about door chimes and warning chime for lights and key in the ignition then just buy the cheap dummy plug like this one:
The red wire goes to a key-on source in the fuse panel as with gm class 2 data there isn't one at the radio. Most people use the cruise control or the windshield wiper fuse. If you do that, do it right with something like this.
If this is an ls sport, it has amplified rear speakers which I THINK requires a different plug.
It's a signal sensing turn on, it's like a switch that's activated by sound. It gets a constant 12 volt and ground and when it sees a signal for the radio it turns on its output. When it doesn't see a signal it turns off its output. It's a little more complicated than that, but that's the simple version.
As for cigarette outlets, not all are switched. OP would have to test theirs.
If it was the proper way to tap into it would be the military splice at the plug. If a tap at the fuse block is desired the way to do it is with an add-a-fuse as simply mashing the wire into the fuse block with the fuse on top of it bends the terminal holding the fuse open further than it should making a intermittent connection more likely. The fuse and the wire may even fall out all together over time.
I haven't done it yet, but I am planning to hardwire a Mobius into my car. Apparently it's relatively simple, just run the power under your headliner and door frame panel, and use add-a-fuse to connect it to a fuse that only gets power when the ignition is on. That way you can set it and forget it, so to speak, and it is always recording while the car is running.
Spy Tec G1WH. Capable of wide angle, and 1080p/30fps recording. The way it works is that it records in 5 minute blocks - once it runs out of room in the memory card, it overwrites the oldest block. The caveat is that it doesn't play well with Class 10 micro sd cards, so I use a 32GB Class 6. I believe I have an 8-10 hour window of current 1080p footage, which should be more than sufficient.
I also purchased a dashcam hard-wire kit, in conjunction with an add-a-fuse kit. It might sound daunting to a layman, but it was actually incredibly simple to wire up. With it, the dashcam turns on when I turn the car on (I wired it in to the car stereo), and turns off when I turn the car off. This was necessary for me because one alternative, using a power adapter plugged into the cigarette lighter, wouldn't work due to my cigarette lighter always being powered, even when the truck is turned off. Also, my install is clean as hell - the only things visible are the cam itself, and about four inches of power wire running up to the headliner.
Here are the specific items I purchased, on Amazon:
Dashcam, $53 Prime
Hardwire kit, $15 shipped
Add-A-Fuse, $11 Prime
Rearview mirror mount, $9 Prime
Class 6 32GB MicroSDHC + adapter if you don't already have one, $16 Prime
Running total for everything above, to your door, about $105. Install takes about ten-fifteen minutes by yourself. You can probably get a local shop to do it if you prefer, for a cost. Hell, I'd even lend a hand if you wanted, so long as you promise you aren't a total fucking weirdo.
Edit to answer your second question: Yeah, I like it. For $100, it's probably the best quality you'll find. With it installed, I often forget it's even there; it's tucked away behind my mirror. The peace of mind that it adds, should I ever need it myself, is great. Also, catching stuff like what's in the video is a huge bonus!
AAA jumped me off something like
what about something like this?
designed for jumping cars I use one here in the UK. You can get them with 12volt output or even USB output.
indel B Travel Box 51 liter Fridge.
I don't have solar yet; I currently run it directly off the stock starter battery. I've run it overnight a few times and had no issue starting the truck the next day, but just incase I always carry a jump starter. Stock battery obviously isn't deep cycle, so not great to be draining the battery like that, but it works for now.
Here's the fridge strapped in to the truck for a trip. Ultimately it will live in the bed of the truck on a slider after I install an aux fuse box back there. Picture of the interior with a Powerade bottle for scale. Great if you like camping with your truck, no ice to worry about, nothing get's soggy as the ice melts and your cooler fills with water.
My car battery died 2 winters ago, so I got a heavy duty jumper and a power inverter, so it charges shit galore. Lasted 2 or 3 days, even with everyone using it to charge various phones. I wanted to recharge it in vip, but I forgot to bring a male to female extension cord (which I won't forget to bring this year). https://www.amazon.com/Jump-N-Carry-JNC660-1700-12-Volt-Starter/dp/B000JFJLP6
Where is this picture from? Can someone explain to me why there is a jump pack on the passenger floor? It's this one
Jump Start boxes are great. They make cheaper and smaller ones, but this "dumb" one (no on/off switch) is perfect when helping out someone with a problem or when you leave the map lights on overnight as long as you cover the terminals and exercise care (as there is no on/off switch)- https://www.amazon.com/Jump-N-Carry-JNC660-1700-Peak-Starter/dp/B000JFJLP6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492454578&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=jump%2Bstart%2Bbox&amp;th=1
AAA roadside assistance in the US often carries the exact same box (I assume regular tow trucks do the same). Which I later bought myself and works great and can jump many times before a recharge is needed. But if you get one of the smaller $40 ones to keep in the trunk (take it in the house to give it a re-charge every 4-6 months or after you use it) and your battery is totally dead (vs just low) and you have a V6 or larger engine, I have found that you can make due by: (a) connecting red to red and black to black (vs black to the metal in your car as the instructions generally state), and (b) leaving the thing sitting connected for a few minutes before turning the key so as to trickle in some juice.
With a big old jump box - just connect (I tend to do red to red and black to black instead of the metal in my car) and turn the key for a good clean start even in really cold weather with a dead battery. Between not driving that much, mistakes and helping others, I use my box at least 3x a year.
I would recommend something like this over jumper cables. Last thing you want is to mess up your own battery and have 2 cars stranded. This is one of the only things I was never issued that I thought should be in the standard loadout.
I've went through a few and alot of them fail after a while/don't hold their charge.
Talked with a few AAA service and alot of them recommended this:
When driving, I charge off the 12v lighter plug on the dash board with a small inverter. Like this one. Having two plugs plus USB is really useful. I always unplug it when parked though so as not to drain the car battery. Using this, I make sure my laptop batter is at full charge when I park for the night. https://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-300W-Power-Inverter-Adapter/dp/B004MDXS0U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503271065&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=12v+inverter+to+120v
At night, or when parked for a couple of days, I use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Jump-N-Carry-JNC660-1700-Peak-Starter/dp/B000JFJLP6/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503270823&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=car+jump+battery+pack
There are many makes and models of this kind of thing. The one I purchased was on sale at Harbor Freight. I recharge it with an extra long extension cord, depending on my stops/sleeping locations (not too hard to find places to plug in most of the time). It charges phones, tablet, and laptop. Plus, I have something just in case I am alone and the minivan does need a jump, or I meet someone who needs one.
I also use a solar powered light that will also charge my phone if needed. It sits on the dash board to charge up and then I can use it at night. I found a deal on it on Amazon Warehouse. https://www.amazon.com/WakaWaka-Light-Solar-Powered-Flashlight-Yellow/dp/B00W6NTLXG/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503270978&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=waka+waka
I also carry two small battery packs (great for air travel too) that charge using the USB plug on the inverter. I make sure they are fully powered all the time.
I'm sure other folks have other ideas about how to do this without solar. I'm curious about what those might be too.
It has came in handy plenty of times worth the every penny.
Ah, good to know. Although I do have the powertank, I don't use it anyway, since it doesn't hold a charge (actually use this, which works out really well!).
Ask your dealer if they installed one (they're not factory equipped); if they didn't , you can get one from Amazon for less than $6
I have something like this up front: https://www.amazon.com/Goodway-Universal-Motorcycle-Waterproof-Rotation/dp/B07BRR9RPM/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1550853589&amp;sr=8-13&amp;keywords=motorcycle+phone+mount
The cable runs under the tank all the way back under the rear seat. I cut off the ring terminals and attached this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Battery-Tender-SAE-DC-Power-Automotive-DIY-Connector-Cables-2x0-75mm-30cm-300mm/142428764913?epid=1238902560&amp;hash=item21296a7af1:g:j6sAAOSwWxNYyOzV:rk:1:pf:1&amp;frcectupt=true
I also have the standard battery ring terminal that comes with the battery tender running from the battery all the way back under the rear seat as well. Basically this from the battery:
The end result is you have 2 SAE connectors under the seat. One that runs to the battery and one that runs to the USB charger.
If you want to use the the charger you linked and if you already have a cable that is long enough, you can run the cable from the battery to the rear, then loop it around and run it to the front. Under the seat simply cut the red cable and just put any switch of your liking in-line: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&amp;_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1311.R1.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.Xtoggle+.TRS0&amp;_nkw=toggle+switch&amp;_sacat=0&amp;LH_TitleDesc=0&amp;_osacat=293&amp;_odkw=switch&amp;LH_TitleDesc=0
Let me know if you want more pictures of my setup. I can snap some up (currently the bike has fairings/seat off since I am getting it re-padded).
Diaelectric paste can help a little. Heatsink compound doesn't like to move around.
This and the clamps come with the Battery Tender I bought. I have the connector on at all time and tucked under the pillion seat. You can also get cig and usb connector for it too.
Step one: Buy these: http://www.amazon.com/Hella-SuperTone-Horn-Kit-118/dp/B000CRZXPI
Step two: Install in front bumper, facing forward
Step three: Honk/flash high beams to get people to move. 118 deb of fury is like the parting of the red seas. It's amazing. :D
1700 peak amps is what the booster box says. http://www.amazon.com/Clore-JNC660-Jump-N-Carry-12-Volt-Starter/dp/B000JFJLP6
Then again cold cranking amps as in a battery are measured differently I assume then regular old amps. Im no electrical engineer however.
Those portable rechargeable devices you use to jump start your car, like this
just to add to this solution - i did the same, but wired in a battery tender connector. like this: http://www.batterystuff.com/battery-cables-connectors-plugs/BTLR081-0069-6.html
Then, bought a cigarette light outlet that uses that same connector, like this: http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-8-Cigarette-Disconnect/dp/B0041CDPQO
That way, when you park your bike, you can easily connect a battery tender. Then, when you head out, plug in the cigarette lighter to enable your phone charger.
Just pack a few recharging sticks. If you are car camping, just use one of these for the weekend:
Fanatec do some nice ones, expensive though. Thrustmaster also do them.
Check the coolant temperature sensor. This Youtube video will lead you in the right direction in swapping it out, and they are fairly cheap. Basically theres 3 wires coming from it - A ground, a wire that controls the gauge, and a wire that tell the ECU when to turn on the fan.
This is what I would do to avoid doing the same job twice: Buy the sensor. If you don't need it you can always return it. When you get to the point of removing the old sensor, check the connector for corrosion. At this point if the connector looks corroded, it's probably the plug and that would either need replaced, see here. I would try to clean it real good with a good electronic cleaner with an old toothbrush, and add some Dielectric grease to it to keep it from corroding. Plug it back in and see if that helps. If you're having the same issues after that, then I would replace the sensor and go from there. If that doesnt do it, then its something with the wired connection between the sensor and the ECU, or the ECU itself.
I don't know. Looks unsafe. I have one of these that has got me out of a pinch several times. Stanley
maybe some dielectric grease to compensate! https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2
Dielectric Grease for $7 is probably your best bet.