(Part 2) Best replacement parts according to redditors
We found 9,935 Reddit comments discussing the best replacement parts. We ranked the 5,520 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
Christmas Gift: A "jump box".
Something like this one. Just charge it every 3 months and save yourselves the AAA wait time.
A lot of people seem to misunderstand where break squeaking comes from. It's very rare that the sound actually comes from the contact of the pad and rotor. Rather, the squeak comes from the contact of the pad and the caliper: see image.
Basically, as the brakes rub against the rotor, they like to vibrate and wiggle around a bit, and it's that direct metal-on-metal contact between the backing plate and the caliper that ends up squeaking.
The easiest and best solution is to get some Disk Brake Quiet and apply a small amount of it to the back of your pad where it would normally be in contact with the caliper. This creates just enough of a buffer that the brake pad can shimmy around as it needs to, but won't rub against the caliper and squeak.
I like these myself so i can get the behind and blind spot in the side mirrors
There are tons of them.
DBPOWER 600A 18000mAh Portable Car Jump Starter (up to 6.5L Gas, 5.2L Diesel Engine) Battery Booster and Phone Charger with Smart Charging Port (Black/Red) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D42TYFC
Laugh if you want, but I have been using these oil valves for years with no problems. Just connect a tube from the valve to a gallon jug and open it up. No cleaning to deal with. Still need to do the filter but these valves make the bulk of the clean up super easy.
I would recommend a mini jump starter, like the one I've linked to, below. It's a little larger than a cellphone.
I have Schumacher's "Red Fuel" model, and love it, but this one has even better ratings.
It's great for emergency jump starts and for recharging phones and tablets. I even take mine hiking (without the jumper cable attachments of course) so we can recharge on the trail.
https://www.amazon.com/GOOLOO-18000mAh-SuperSafe-Starter-Portable/dp/B0748D8KT6/
Another option would be a one year membership in AAA in case he needs roadside assistance.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0748D8KT6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I bought this last week and I've had the chance to use it a couple times since. Works great.
Joe's Racing tire pressure gauge
http://www.amazon.com/Joes-Racing-32307-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B00404WDUC
I've had crappy ones for many years until I spent a little bit more and got this. Great quality and should last you a long time.
I'm not sure if there is a pressure gauge that's technically "for life" that's consumer grade and relatively cheap since they are considered to be scientific devices that have parts that wear and/or require calibration at some point.
This is what he needs. Takes about one minute to start once connected.
DBPOWER 600A 18000mAh Portable Car Jump Starter (up to 6.5L Gas, 5.2L Diesel Engine) Battery Booster and Phone Charger with Smart Charging Port (Black/Red) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01D42TYFC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_CGg1CbHN5G9FX
This is a common choice.
Seems to be one of the first mods a lot of owners do.
Maybe use a spot mirror on your monitor & let your brain's motion-detection algorithm do it's thing?
That's always worked for me whenever I've been stuck with an exposed 6 o'clock.
FIPG is just RTV silicone, right? CRC makes this stuff which is basically RTV with a funny shaped nozzle on it for exactly this purpose. I've used it and it does stop squeaks, but also is a huge pain in the ass that you have to be careful not to get everywhere and is impossible to get off your calipers.
A headlight harness will help a lot. H4 conversion housing like the ones made by Hella (I have the e-code) will be amazing.
I highly recommend against getting cheap flea-bay junk like those Cree lights. Spend the money on quality parts for your own safety and others on the road.
Thanks! Added myself using this.
I upgraded the Interior LEDs, Floor Mats, and Cargo Mat. Installed a dashcam.
Also, here's a cool little hack where you can disable the headlights on the Daytime Running Lights so that just the LED is on. It looks sweet!
Buy these instead you get ten times the fuseable links and they're high quality, I've used 8 of mine already. [Then wire the positive to this female USB adapter] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OXZ06I4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_seqXzb06KBW3B1292856) and ground the negative out to the body.
You can get clips already wired to an accessory outlet.
https://www.amazon.com/Roadpro-Battery-Cigarette-Lighter-Adapter/dp/B00065L2D8
I attached blind spot mirrors to my Nighthawk 750.
I have my regular mirrors set for upright cruising, and I have the blind spot mirrors set for higher highway speeds.
Veloster seems to be a really good value. Huyndai is not known for quality problems. If you like the car, it fits your particular needs, and the price is right, I suspect you probably won't do much better.
Something like this will help with the blindspot issue: Custom Accessories 71121 2" Blind Spot Mirror, (Twin Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BOAX1G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_EmRQAb49ZENPF
You just adhere it directly onto your current mirrors in the far corner. Can probably also find these at a local auto parts store
Edit: hopefully someone who owns a Veloster can chime in with their input on quirks and ownership experience :)
I have two FJs, both with upgraded audio. The Kenwood Excelon DNX695S is my favorite head unit of the two, the other is a Kenwood Excelon DNX892. The DNX659S is quite a bit cheaper, has a great layout, no mechanical door hiding the CD/DVD player, and still has the OBDII connection to monitor engine stuff, which is cool. also two inputs for front and rear cameras.
Keep in mind you will need a few additional components to fully integrate, they aren't 100% needed, but make it better: Maestro ADS-MRR to use your steering wheel controls, SiriusXM SXV300v1 if you want Satellite Radio, and a plastic trim piece to complete the bezel around the new radio.
I have a Wicked CAS Stage 2 speaker and subwoofer system in one, and stock speakers in the other. Both sound great with the new head units, but the Wicked system with the dual subwoofers is really nice. I don't have a sub in the second FJ, and miss it after driving the first.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F946YVX/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A32QR6D7S73KI&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NJTO4CY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/Maestro-ADS-MRR-Universal-Replacement-Interface/dp/B00E4W1644/ref=pd_bxgy_504_img_2/134-9197268-1169858?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00E4W1644&pd_rd_r=9886b991-360d-4091-80c8-1d4c8857e87e&pd_rd_w=eHBMr&pd_rd_wg=XXeXa&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=8JEA44SVJBBDNT7YZM62&psc=1&refRID=8JEA44SVJBBDNT7YZM62
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K52CY2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://shop.wickedcas.com/fj-cruiser-stage2-package-audio-upgrade-stereo-stage-2.html?category_id=3
I think you are misunderstanding what "checking your blind spot" means.
Every car has bindspot(s) - it is the driver's responsibility to check ALL OF THEM - it's called a blindspot for a reason, and the first few lessons on Driver's Education is that you know your vehicle and check your blind spot(s). If there is a place on your car where your blind spot is bigger, you need to adjust mirrors and your driving technique such that you can cover ALL the blindspots. There should NOT be a place beside your car where you cannot check due to being blinded - it's a technique adjustment and possibly a technical gear adjustment (mirrors, adding additional "smaller wide angle spot mirror" glued onto your existing side mirror[1], or even side cameras in newer cars, etc)
You would actually fail a recent driver's ed test if you claim that you can't see the cyclist because he's in your blind spot.
Just expounding that fact identifies that your driving technique needs adjusting. Think about it this way - imagine if that's not a cyclist, but a cop on a motorcyle. The cop will 100% going to write you a ticket for not checking your blind spot properly if you run into the cop.
[1] https://www.amazon.com/Upgrade-Mirrors-Ampper-Adjustabe-Universal/dp/B01CV4ANCC/ref=pd_lpo_263_bs_t_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=KBN7SHDHF1BFNGCVF7E0
You can buy those little mirrors you place on your mirrors to see blind spots.like these
If you want a decent upgrade, start with replacing the stock harness to one with relays. I used this Putco harness (though I'm sure there are better ones). I saw a significant increase in brightness with the stock bulbs. Just something to consider.
That stinks man, I have memories of helping push a stranded car over to the pulloff on pearl street parkway to the sound of multiple people behind us honking their horns.
FWIW, I picked up one of these last November and it's helped me out of a few sticky situations.
OPs link is the dual.
Pro tip. If anyone grabs this, buy 2x fuse taps (your proper sizing) so you don't have to have ugly wiring to your cig light port
Might I recommend a battery charger?
This one is helpful during a storm, when traveling, and can even be used to jump your car if your battery drains.
Feel free to get any number of cheaper ones or solar powered ones, but I think it’s essential if you travel.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0748D8KT6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yDqXBbPKHFH0B
Went with 1/4 of an inch. Here is what I used
http://www.amazon.com/Green-Filter-7159-High-Performance/dp/B000CMHIR4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1462365341&sr=8-3&keywords=green+filter
Seriously took 10 minutes to install!
The sound is...visceral, a growl and rumble, you can hear the engine suck in air with a whistle even.
There are also These I've got them on a few vehicles, very handy just a 1/2 turn or so and the battery is disconnected. They're installed on the negative side and work very nicely.
They make a battery clamp that unscrews and disconnects the beg battery cable when a vehicle will be sitting for a long time. It is commonly used on motor homes and campers. Easy to pick up at most auto parts stores.
Here is one. Top Post Battery Master Disconnect Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001N729FS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_98GCCb732JJV6
Get yourself something like this and never look back. You take a small hose, afix it to the valve nipple and toss the other end in a milk jug and enjoy your effortlessly spotless oil change.
It replaces your drain plug, so you just put it on the next time you change your oil, which hopefully will be the LAST time you have to worry about cleanup at all.
If you do your own changes on a regular basis, it may be worth looking at a Fumoto valve; makes changes even faster/simpler.
I use this a Joes racing gauge. Very good reviews in the car racing community, and its has never let me down. Good value, and I cant complain. I use it for my bikes and all the cars we own.
http://www.amazon.com/Joes-Racing-32307-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B00404WDUC?ie=UTF8&keywords=joes%20racing&qid=1463484884&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HRMSX6W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hey! Okay here is the link, let me know if it doesn't work for you. I haven't received them yet but I found this link from this sub Reddit with others recommending it and commenting on it's easy install. Lots of the reviews echo the same.
CX-5 LED (Amazon)
I used this:
1/4" 3M Vinyl Striping 150' 25 Colors Available (Tomato Red) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HQN3W40/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9QkJDbZ97CZ7J
Although the red shade is a bit lighter than the red GTI strip.
I've seen some people recommend this one as well in the mk7owners forum:
Trimbrite T1218 Trim Stripe Red 1/4 Tape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00029XBBE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2RkJDbW95FJ4X
The best bang for the buck is to upgrade your wire harness. The way the factory wiring is routed on your XJ, the power goes into the switch in the cabin of the vehicle only to go out into the engine bay and supply power to your lights. Even a very small drop in voltage at the headlights themselves will make them appear dim. The way to get the lights brighter is to feed them more power. There are kits online you can buy or you can make one yourself using a write up like this: http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoHeadlightLoom.htm
If you don't want to make one, you can use the harness that everyone seems to buy on Amazon. A lot of people who have reviewed the product are talking about putting them into XJs. http://www.amazon.com/Putco-230004HW-Premium-Automotive-Lighting/dp/B001P29X4G
The way a headlight harness upgrade works is it uses relays. You don't remove any of your existing wiring, just add the kit to your existing electrical system. Instead of your factory wiring feeding power to the lights, it now activates relays which will draw power right off of your battery. That delivers more power to your lights and makes them brighter without even replacing them.
Many people will recommend upgrading the headlights themselves, but be aware that the vast majority of the kits for sale online aren't DOT approved. That means you will fail a safety inspection if your state requires them and you can get a ticket for having them on your vehicle when driving on the road. The DOT regulations are to keep lights from blinding other drivers by defining cut off points of the beam and specifying focused beam patterns. If a cop pulls you over for suspected non-compliant headlights, all he has to do is look at them. If the glass doesn't say DOT, you're getting a ticket.
An alternative that a lot of people get away with are using E-code headlights. Autopal and Hella make lights that are compliant to European standards, but they're still not DOT approved for use here in the United States. People seem to get away with them though because at a glance they don't look like the cheapie "for offroad use only" H6054 composite housings for sale all over eBay. The Autopal and Hella headlight housings allow the user to pop in H4 headlight bulbs. That opens you up to a whole lot more options in terms of lighting. Fitting HIDs in an XJ can be done, but simply popping a cheap HID kit into a H6054 composite housing isn't going to do the trick because an HID bulb is longer and will project light in a very different pattern which can blind other drivers.
There are also LED H6054 headlights on the market as well as true HIDs for H6054s. They're expensive, but they exist if you want to spend the money. Truck-lite makes LED headlights and they're $215 each. The "boobie light" Real factory-made and DOT approved HIDs (not some enclosures a guy on a forum made in his garage) cost a grand a pair including ballasts. They're the Philips Bi-Xenon XP6054. A guy on jeepforum has/had them, but that's a ton of money for a pair of headlights. This link shows pictures from that jeepforum user. http://www.headlightrevolution.com/Starr_HID_5x7_Headlights_Black_p/starr-xp6054b.htm
I would suggest following the linked guide with a few changes / notes below : https://www.fiat500owners.com/threads/how-to-2012-fiat-500-double-din-radio-install.7412/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012F8RC1Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You will make an account and flash the firmware to the appropriate car make/year and head unit model.
I've only installed a basic 1 DIN stereo on my old 2013 500. I suggested the above head unit and wiring harness because I've installed that on my 2017 500 and had great results. Best of luck.
And then obviously pick a head unit. We've had good luck with the Kenwood DNX695S, which has navigation, wired android auto, apple car play, and plays DVDs. It looks like a lot of parts but the only wire connecting you'll need to do is with the various harnesses listed above, and there's good documentation on what goes where. Once you get your harness all connected up, everything just plugs right into your existing Toyota harnesses.
You really don't... not sure why you got down voted to hell. A lot of work vans don't have them on the back doors. Semis too... Properly sized & aligned side-view mirrors (I like to throw on a convex sticky mirror) can get you seeing everything around you.
https://www.amazon.com/STANLEY-PPRH5-Professional-Power-Station/dp/B0051SO7JQ
This has been a lifesaver
My BIL left it here a few months ago. Harvey started coming so I charged it up.
It's great because it has an inverter so we can plug in appliances. It's not going to last forever but it's helped us get by without power.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01D42TYFC/ref=psdcmw_318336011_t3_B005IU28AW
I also had this sitting in my car.
We're using it to charge our phones.
We've barely made a dent in it's capacity.
I've also got some backup powerpacks for my phones.
Also two backup batteries for the internet modern that we use intermittently to check the weather.
It's weird that the power is out but internet still works.
With as advanced as battery technology has gotten, I'd recommend investing in a lot.
Our neighbor down the street has power and is letting us charge what we need to.
I think it's getting near the point where it money wise to buy batteries instead of a generator.
A good generator needs a steady supply of gas and my personal experience shows that gas is one of the first resources to run out.
It also needs to run outside but under cover which isn't really an option with this damn monsoon that's moved in.
I didn't really plan on using backup power. We just couldn't get our hands on a generator.
I'm glad we had this powerpack.
I'm going to buy a few more with higher capacities. Enough to run a fridge off of.
Not advertising for it, but i bought one for my Jeep since i have a bad battery, and this comes with a bunch of different laptop plug adapters to charge your laptop, and usb plugs.
I love it and its small, about the size of a VHS tape. For you millennial thats a square box with tape in it that we used to watch movies on :)
If ya want to know how long it lasts, i have jump started my Jeep 6 times already and the power is at 98% now. and thats over a month spread out.
I forgot it also comes with a case to hold all the stuff.
No more dead laptop batteries for the wife
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D42TYFC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Buy a fuse tap and a cigarette lighter socket. Then check your interior fusebox for an ignition-switched source. Tap into that then use whatever cigarette-to-usb adapter you want.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00029XBBE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You really don't want an inverter. That would just go from DC to AC and back to DC again for no reason. Each conversion lowers the efficiency and wastes energy. The inverter would also be more expensive than just buying a 12vDC to 20vDC adapter.
A much better solution would be to get both of these and use them together:
https://www.amazon.com/Roadpro-Battery-Cigarette-Lighter-Adapter/dp/B00065L2D8
https://www.savingology.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=Car-12V-Apple-MD212LL-A-EGR&click=2&gclid=COC9lOaGs9MCFYdMDQod0LIPTg
The first plug just gives you a cigarette lighter plug at 12vDC. The second will convert the voltage to 20vdc at 4.25A and charge your laptop.
that'd do it; i don't know why you'd need two inverters though.
also you want a deep cycle battery rather than a regular car one as car batteries are designed for short bursts of high energy rather than a sustained drain. deep cycle batteries are used for running the electricity on boats and RVs. make sure to get one that's "100ah" or higher. that's essentially the amount of power available in the battery and the more you have the longer you can power your stuff. you can get two and connect them in parallel (google image this for a diagram) to increase your available energy.
you'll also want to get a battery charge reader so you can monitor how much charge the battery has. a full charged battery is 12.6v, and you should turn everything off and recharge if you dip down to 12v as that's around 50% charge and anything less than that will actually kill your battery and it won't charge again.
definitely don't do the gennie, we have enough air and noise pollution out there...
battery
http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Power-Group-45978-Battery/dp/B0044Z8DJW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1374787029&sr=8-1&keywords=UPG+UB121000
combine these two items to create a battery charge reader
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00065L2D8/ref=oh_details_o00_s01_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVWDU0/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1
None of my blind spots are large enough to lose even a Miata in. It's YOUR responsibility to be aware of your blindspots and be able to tell if there's a car in them. Try these
As someone who has driven on the freeway commute for a long time, I always assume someone is in my blind spot. Always. And just to make sure, I have these on my side mirrors to check before I change lanes: http://www.amazon.com/Custom-Accessories-71121-Blind-Mirror/dp/B000BOAX1G
It's like people who say to look out for motorcyclists. If I drove a motorcycle, I would make damn sure I knew what was going on around me at all times. I understand that sometimes they're at the mercy of the drivers around them, but I'd argue that most of the time motorcyclists wreck because of their own negligence.
They sell it in fancy red "made for this purpose".
https://www.amazon.com/Green-Filter-7159-High-Performance/dp/B000CMHIR4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487785406&sr=8-1&keywords=green+filter
Open ended oiled filter. Seen them in the $40 range on Amazon occasionally. Not much performance gain but the noise is good for miles of smiles.
https://www.amazon.com/Green-Filter-7159-High-Performance/dp/B000CMHIR4/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=green+filter&qid=1555005232&s=gateway&sr=8-3
Replace that horn. Easy, cheap. So many options.
For example, https://www.amazon.com/Fiamm-72112-Freeway-Blaster-Note/dp/B000DINKPQ?keywords=car+horn+loud&qid=1535858148&sr=8-2&ref=mp_s_a_1_2
If you're depending on that worthless beep-beep, good luck. One of the first mods I make on a new motorcycle is horn upgrade (there's a box of old stock horns in the garage).
Get a stebel air horn or a set of Fiamm Freeway Blasters (standard on an F-150), or any other decent horn.
And be careful out there, you're invisible!
I used to use a Kat's heater on my Land Rover oil pan, and it worked great on sub zero mornings.
No, they won't be able to help you. Unlock procedure on a mk4 is pump wedge and long reach to hit the door lock button. I'd pondered using the long reach to grab the hood release, but those are pretty stiff and require a lot of torque to pull so I doubt it would work.
You may get lucky with the following, though. Since you can access the trunk you can access the 12v power socket in the trunk, get something with a cigarette lighter adapter and hack the plug end off, connect the positive and negative leads to a low amperage battery charger (the wiring for that socket isn't very robust, no more than say 10A output on the charger) and plug the charger in, then connect the cigarette plug into the 12v socket in the trunk.
If you don't have anything with a cigarette plug end, use this.
Give it an hour or so and you should have enough juice to articulate the locks using either the fob, or holding the key in the door all the way to the left or right for a couple seconds. That should get you in. Of course, I -know- this socket is live even with key off on my 2002, it's likely the same on your 2001, but they are also VW's so... there's that. Make sure you have the correct polarity as well on your plug end, center post is always positive, if unsure test with a multi meter or you're gonna have a bigger problem to contend with. Just be mindful, and it should work ok.
Edit: I've since looked in an older unlock book once I arrived to work, it IS possible to pop the rear doors using a rod linkage tool, but I'd still wager a cheap cord and a cheap charger would do the job just as fast as a roadside club, and for much less in cost.
$83.94 IPF housings
$20.98 Hella H4 55/100W
$27.34 Putco harness
$14.56 Backup relays
$146.82 for a sharp cutoff and much more light on the road, and an incredible high beam, delivered in two days if you have an Amazon Prime membership. I bet you use high beams a lot now, but you'll probably rarely feel the need to use them on the road with this setup.
$147.99 for a 50 inch light bar. Even though the headlights offer a lot of light, having extra flood would be great when off road. I don't actually have this yet, but I plan on buying it as a reward for getting some work done on my XJ. Mine is still new to me, and I haven't yet had the time to earn it yet.
Less than $300 and two days for an incredible amount of light output.
If I don't buy that light bar, it's because I'm getting a Cree light bar with XP/XT or XM emitters that I'll be upgrading...I'm on the hunt for a light bar that uses XTE emitters like this light because output can greatly be increased by swapping in XP-L's, and more than doubled if power can be increased. That mod is more of a hobbyist thing than an attempt to save money, and not all of them would be done anyway since it'd sacrifice some throw for flood.
It's hard to beat the Chinese at this one... I've seen a guy on Facebook reselling prebuilt harnesses as his own creation, but I'm more interested in making a quality product that's going to outlast the rig it's installed on. I want my reputation to be built on quality and value for the dollar.
Example:
For $20:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CERAMIC-H4-HEADLIGHT-RELAY-WIRING-HARNESS-2-HEADLAMP-LIGHT-BULB-SOCKET-PLUGS-7-/330997592807
For $40:
https://www.amazon.com/Putco-230004HW-Premium-Automotive-Lighting/dp/B001P29X4G/?tag=vig-20
And at the premium/benchmark end:
http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/ipf-wiring-harness.html
If I could make and sell a harness that people would be interested in, I'd be game. We'd be talking OEM quality TXL wire, ceramic plugs, HELLA style relays... but it's not going to be $20. That's the hard part, being competitive in price and quality in relation to other offerings.
Non-mobile: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001P29X4G/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/184-6657873-1060049
^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?
My .02 worth for ya..... Go in this order instead of jumping right into a set of LED headlamps.
1 - Upgrade the wiring harness.
I installed a Putco harness in 2013 when I first got the XJ and it was a definitely improvement.
Putco 230004HW Premium Automotive Lighting H4 100W Heavy Duty Wiring Harness and Relay
Other folks have gone the eBay route, and I bought one of these on a whim (because it was stupid cheap) just to see if the quality was worth it.
CERAMIC H4 HEADLIGHT RELAY WIRING HARNESS 2 HEADLAMP LIGHT BULB SOCKET PLUGS 7
Ended up not installing it because I had other things to work on instead of replacing the Putco harness that was working fine. Overall though, the quality was surprisingly good and I would have used it if I didn't already have the Putco harness.
For all the negative comments people have about the Putco upgrade harness, it's still working fine a little over 3yrs later. Knock on wood, of course.
2 - Get a set of H4 housings. I bought these off Amazon, but there are other reputable brands out there which work just fine.
GENSSI DOT H6054 7x6 Inch 200mm Headlights Pair with Bulbs Non-Sealed H6014/H6052/H6054
These came with some crappy OCONUS-made no-name bulbs that sucked balls and were immediately thrown in the garbage.
I went to my local PepBoys and grabbed a set of Sylvania SilverStar "Ultra Halogen" H4 bulbs and threw those in the housings.
Holy shit, #1 & #2 were an incredible upgrade to the shit stock XJ headlights.
If you're looking to stay right at or a hair under $100 that's the way to go.
Last year, I came into some $$$ and got it into my head that I wanted LED headlights. Went this route: Truck-Lite (27450C) Headlamp
Wow.
Significant difference from the H4 bulbs + wiring harness upgrade but I'm honestly glad I did the H4 bulbs + wiring harness upgrade first.
Now that said... In hindsight, the LEDs weren't absolutely necessary and I could have put the $$$ into a SYE or something else.
But hey, ya learn as ya go. Right?
I use Torque Pro on my android with a bluetooth ODBII scanner. It has helped me to diagnose some issues on a friend’s car. As well as see some benefits from some small fix-ups that I was not sure would be noticeable (eg. cleaning my MAF)
For tire pressure I use Joes racing gauge
Big fan of Joe's Racing. http://www.amazon.com/Joes-Racing-32307-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B00404WDUC/
I would think it's best to power the motors with a separate power supply from the Arduino power since the motors will draw a lot of current. Instead of powering the motors from the onboard 5v supply, run a separate supply through either a relay module or a motor controller board. Like these: relay, motor driver.
I’m looking at adding a Kenwood radio to my Tundra and I found this.
Maestro ADS-MRR Universal Radio Replacement and Steering Wheel Interface https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E4W1644/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NeB9BbZG14HP6
This will allow the radio to show TPMS data and reset CEL codes and a whole lot more. Aftermarket is always ahead of OEM.
Maybe something like these?
I second this set, OP. I really love it. It's much brighter, and the color is very similar to the headlights.
It's subtle LED blue, which is far different than the candle yellow color with the regular bulbs (and virtually every other vehicle). In my opinion it really makes the interior shine.
It's potato quality, but last year I took a short video of my LEDs to show a buddy.
It's not a huge thing, but I've enjoyed this upgrade.
The cargo privacy cover is definitely worth the bucks.
When camping, be careful of draining your battery. I camped last week, charged 3 cell phones and played the radio for about 45 minutes at low volume, then didn't have enough juice to start the car in the morning. After a jump I had an error regarding the electronic parking brake (don't engage the brake if you're at risk of killing the battery while parked) - it went away after a couple of drives, but it had me a little worried.
I hate to break it to you, but when determining liability, pulling out from the park position actually makes you the servient driver that's supposed to yield to the dominant drive (other lady) who has the right of way. https://www.icbcclaiminfo.com/node/9
Whether the lady turned or not doesn't matter much, since she has the right of way and should be able to maintain speed. Regarding the vehicle bouncing, that might be affected by the weight of your vehicle compared to hers.
Some tools that might help increase visibility in the future include blind spot mirrors and a wide angle rearview mirror. Both have been lifesavers for me when driving in New York since they help you see more of what's going on around the car during the maneuver (i.e. when pulling out) and not just before it.
https://www.amazon.ca/Ampper-Blind-Mirror-Frameless-Convex/dp/B01CV4ANCC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1523142382&sr=8-3&keywords=blind+spot+mirror
https://www.amazon.ca/RG23-Black-Frame-Convex-Mirror/dp/B0028JIDNM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1523142373&sr=8-3&keywords=wide+angle+rear+view
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CV4ANCC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Very inexpensive, but I've found these to be useful on a daily basis. Mounted mine right above the blind spot warning indicator on each mirror. No more blind spot.
I did that in my work truck.
USB is 5 volts, not 12. You will need a step down transformer. I used an 'add a circuit' to get switched power from my fuse panel. Ran the wire to a 12v plug behind my glove box. Then shoved a USB car charger into the plug. I ran a USB extension cable from the plug up beside my instrument panel and plugged in a 3 port USB bank. Now I can have three things plugged in at a time. The USB charger lasts about a year and a half to two years before it dies, but I use it heavily for work.
Add a circuit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DYQM6EO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
12v plug: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074CT5CSN?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Model of? Dash Cam? I have this one (https://www.amazon.com/Rexing-Dashboard-Recorder-G-Sensor-Recording/dp/B00X528FNE), there's different versions/models from them. But I just wanted something basic and didn't want to spend a lot in case it turned out to be crap. Then you can get these https://www.amazon.com/10-Pack-Add-circuit-Adapter/dp/B01DYQM6EO and tap into a fuse if you don't have a free/open one.
This stuff off of Amazon.
You could add the red strip to the lower front face and the back ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00029XBBE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ). It does look a lot sportier. You can also plasti dip all the chrome. Those are the only way I can think of not involving a louder exhaust.
Assuming you mean that the cooling box uses 0.55 amps, this should be reasonably doable. Get a cable adapter like this one to connect the 12-volt outlets to the battery. Then plug the cooler and any other accessories into the splitter. I see no reason why plugging the cooler into this setup would damage it, so long as you make sure to connect the battery in the correct polarity (red to +, black to -). You can use the built-in USB port on your splitter, but beware that the output may be poorly regulated or undersized if it's from a cheap manufacturer. I would say that a power inverter isn't necessary, but if you get one be sure to only plug it in when you need it, rather than all the time. Inverters use a lot of quiescent power.
Wow! Thank you you've answered all my questions about power needs.
Now all I need to figure out is details of actual wiring and construction.
Is it really as simple as this diagram would imply? Can I hook a fan like this one up to it directly or would I need an intermediary?
Would I be able to split it off into a car power thingy to charge phones and the like?
Thank you again.
*Forgot the fan. Also do you know if 90CFM is enough airflow for an air cooler? From the tutorials I've seen it should be, but more I'm thinking would be better, no?
Best solution I have off the top of my head: get yourself a car battery or some other 12v DC power source and use a cigarrette lighter adapter
Then you don't need to buy any new Hero 3 accessories. Or, if you were implying that you want your current backup batteries as the power source, you can probably make use of one of these. Never tried one, but if you can find one that's the right size for the charger you currently have you should be in business.
I took drivers ed about 7 years ago and was also told this. Makes sense, as it takes your eyes off the road in front of you.
I've found these to be really helpful - http://www.amazon.com/Custom-Accessories-71121-Blind-Mirror/dp/B000BOAX1G/ref=pd_bxgy_e_img_y
I have a '16 and BSM seems to work well, but I'd rather see things with my own eyes anyway. It's possible to eliminate the blind spot with adjustments, but I prefer convex mirrors that give me a wide view with no blind spot. I put a set of these on every car regardless.
>When you drive you look over your fucking shoulder to merge. You look over your fucking shoulder when you reverse into a parking spot.
Boy do I have something for you.. Looking over your shoulder to merge is one of the most dangerous activities you do while driving and is something that can be avoided with a $5 purchase.
Also some people have the luxury of a backup camera which is primarily used for, you guessed it, backing up. No over-the-shoulder looking necessary.
Maybe you should check yourself for assumptions about how you live your life and realize that what you think might be necessary because it may be necessary for you isn't necessary for everyone and doesn't make them somehow worse than you because of it.
I highly recommend the proclip phone mount if you don't mind spending a few extra bucks
proclip
As to the DDing question - I really really like these blind spot mirrors for this car. I tried a few different options and discarded the crappy or otherwise unsuitable ones, these were the best.
If your car doesn't already have it, I'd also recommend the OEM autodim mirror (with or without homelink depending on your preference). Easy to install yourself if you're so inclined, the wiring is already hiding under the headliner.
Squealing has nothing to do with pad thickness. The only thing that matters is pad thickness - replace when they get under "nickle thin." You can addresss the squealing by applying anti-squeal paste to the backsides.
"Disk Brake Quiet" Like this stuff from CRC which I use creates a rubber like film when it dries to stop metal chattering against itself. It is on the pad
facesbackings and they do not need to move once installed against the caliper bracket and caliper cylinder, so a lubricant is not needed.As far as the grease Syl-Glide is silicone based and works very well. The Permatex Ceramic lube I use lists as being "Compatible with internal/external brake rubber and plastic hardware, including ethylene-propylene rubber."
I usually grease the following locations:
It seems you have done all this in your original post... I can only offer two more solutions:
1.) Bed your brakes in hard... Get it on the highway and do a few hard stops from 70 MPH down to 30. This'll heat up the pads and burn off any impurities that may be on the surface of them.
2.) They sell a red goop at auto parts stores. https://www.amazon.com/CRC-Disc-Brake-Quiet-05016/dp/B000CINV88
Use a thick layer of that to adhere the shims to the brake pad.
You're literally rubbing two chunks of metal together... The brake rotor and brake pads. There's bound to be some vibration. The idea is to minimize that vibration. Usually grease helps stop the vibration from getting from the pads and reverberating in the rest of the front end of the car... The shims and clips act like springs and prevent vibrations. The red goo acts like a cushion and further dampens vibrations.
The squeaking noise is harmless, but annoying. If you can't get rid of it, don't worry too much.
The brake squeal is due to the pad itself vibrating within the caliper. You could always just pop them out, and apply some CRC BrakeQuiet to the back of the pads and pop them back in to resolve it.
most of my cars never ever squeak, i don't do anything at all.
but the one car that did squeak required that i put a silicone type liquid that solidifies in-between the bad and brake piston.
https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05016-Single-Brake-Quiet/dp/B000CINV88/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=brake+squeak&qid=1573783729&sr=8-1
I'm assuming the shop checked to see if the pads were worn? Brakes are designed to screech unpleasantly if the pad is worn out.
If you think the pads are dirty maybe try taking them out and cleaning them off with some brake cleaner and an old toothbrush?
edit: clean the rotor, too.
another edit: some research tells me that some folks have had noisy brakes due to the brake piston rubbing on the metal back of the brake pad. Some people have put a piece of duct tape between the piston and pad, and there is also a product called CRC disk Brake Quiet
This happened in mine too until I changed the brake pads and used this where the pads contact the caliper.
It’s just a tacky goo that you put on the back of the brake pad (according to the DIY video I watched about a month ago). Stops the inevitable brake squeak
I haven’t tried it but am planning to. I just had my 5000 mile service and asked them to look at it (first Harley) and the brake noise came back louder... so frustrating
CRC Disc Brake Quiet 05016, 4 Fl Oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CINV88/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pOF7AbP1Z6HSX
Green Filter 7159 Green High Performance Air Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CMHIR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_IaEszbMN7H88X
Resonator is part of the exhaust system, $50 From my local muffler shop to remove it and put a straight thru . Gives the exhaust a little character without being loud
https://www.amazon.com/Green-Filter-7159-High-Performance/dp/B000CMHIR4
purchased mine from Amazon because, free prime shipping.
Not really - I quite like the car 'as is'. The only thing I've done is add a weighted shift knob and some goofy decals.
EDIT: Also a Green Filter for more turbo noise in the cabin.
Got it here..
http://www.amazon.com/Green-Filter-7159-High-Performance/dp/B000CMHIR4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425668660&sr=8-1&keywords=focus+st+green+filter
Came pretty quick, got it in 2-3 days. As far as performance goes, there isnt much of a difference. It sounds great though! Left the top of the air box off.
Ive been thinking of getting the rokblokz myself. Window tint is iffy for me, due to it being illegal. Got popped in my RSX for it.
Ok so I am looking at these items
[https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CMHIR4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A15DTMM40CG6VX](Green Air)
and
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IGWW5UC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A26YKA1AMO7VO
this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CMHIR4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
i like it so far it adds a bit more induction noise and it looks like it keeps the oil cooler just by a little bit.
Freeway blasters solve the quite horn issue!
http://www.amazon.com/FIAMM-72112-Freeway-Blaster-Horn/dp/B000DINKPQ
When I see these people, I make sure to never let them in.
Inevitably, they'll try to push their way in with their blinker on. That is when I press my horn to which I've installed 2 Freeway Blasters (high and low tone) and I stay on them until they stop and continue to wait.
If that fails to stop them, I follow them very closely and stay on my horn until they eventually move aside and let me pass. I then give them a nasty look. Sometimes I flip them off as well.
I've found this to be effective and educational. It was even more effective when I had air horns, but those compressors don't last me long, probably because I use them liberally and judiciously.
I was disappointed with my horn (I can barely hear it) so I upgraded.
A touring windshield for when it's cold out, frame sliders, tank grips for your knees, removable hard cases for storage. This awesome horn https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000DINKPQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MiS.Ab6X7RFY3
I installed this horn recently. It's much louder than the OEM horn. I don't think revving would be loud enough with my bike's exhaust.
I have a 2009 ninja 250. I installed the Freeway Blaster (low tone). It's on amazon and most local stores. I got it at my local Canadian Tire.
Here it is: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000DINKPQ
I ripped out the rubber washer and just installed the metal nuts on metal. For some reason the threaded rod built into the freeway blaster is slightly shorter than the stock horn. But it installed just fine and is really loud. Just make sure you mount it with the open end facing down to prevent rain from getting in.
> however it’s not always possible to warm up, especially when it gets to -35 etc. nothing warms up in that.
Hot Pad Heater ($30.44 USD) + Engine Block Heater ($27.95 USD)
A119 is very popular, goodluck with it, v2 is more stable than v1.
I suggest a block heater like this.
Kat's 24150 150 Watt 4"x 5" Universal Hot Pad Heater https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I8TQD6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VPSyCb9VMC6PP
Here ya go https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GBlD0WrFMKE
https://www.amazon.com/Kats-24150-Watt-Universal-Heater/dp/B000I8TQD6
Crimp the fan wires onto this (or similar) https://www.amazon.com/Roadpro-Fused-Replacement-Cigarette-Lighter/dp/B0016LG0CY
If you need to extend the fan wires, you can use butt splice connectors to add an extension. You can pick up the connectors and some 16awg thhn wire at home depot or lowes.
If you are mostly listening, you should be fine. Most cigarette outlets are rated for 8 amps at 13.8v. My Cobra 19 DX III only uses 1.2 amp on transmit so it is safe for me do what you are suggesting. Some vans and trucks have "power outlets" that are rated for 18-20 amps that would be perfect even for a long talker.
The power post you are suggesting scares me since leaves things so exposed. I ended up using the following that you can buy in almost any store with basic automotive electrical parts.
Terminals and Spades and a Replacement Cigarette Adapter. The Cigarette adapter in stores is usually rated for 3 amps. For CB's that should be plenty, but if the fuse pops after some long TX you may need to figure out running a Positive wire to the battery and the black to bolt to the car frame.
They are being helpful. The thing is, cars are loud. USB ports provide very small amounts of power. You can get something working, but you're likely to find that you can't hear the music over the road noise.
The trouble with USB is it can supply only a tiny amount of power. It runs at 5V and can supply up to 0.9 amps (unless you violate the standard). That works out to 4.5 watts of available power. Meanwhile, a car cigarette lighter is 12V and usually at least 10 amps. That gives you 120 watts of available power.
Unless you already have the USB speakers, why would you want to give up 96% of the power available to you in an application where you need a lot of power? Even if you do already have USB speakers, why would you want to spend time building something that really isn't going to work?
Especially when there is a whole industry out there devoted to producing amplifiers for your exact situation, some as cheap as $10. And speakers for $19. And for $4 more, you can add a connector to plug it into the cigarette lighter.
Alternatively, shop around for computer speakers that are sold with a 12V DC power adapter. You should be able to power those directly off the cigarette lighter power, and they will probably be louder than USB speakers.
You could buy one of (THESE) and splice it in, using electrician's "wire nuts" (image) to complete the connections.
Before cutting off the old BigFatPlug, use your multimeter to learn which terminal of BigFatPlug goes the the central Tip of the telescope connector, and which terminal of BigFatPlug goes to the outer Sleeve of the telescope connector. Write these two facts on a piece of paper.
you would connect a wire to the positive terminal of your battery using an electrical lug you can pick up from any autoparts store. Then that wire goes to a switch (need to make sure it is rated for the current.) and the other side of the switch goes to the wire that was on the battery before. Or you can buy a battery lockout switch and be done...here's one on amazon https://www.amazon.com/Post-Battery-Master-Disconnect-Switch/dp/B001N729FS
I went the lazy route on this one. I don't use my truck for months at a time and I was tired of coming back to a dead battery. It's a piece of shit so I wanted to "fix" the problem as cheaply as possible. Instead of tracking down the parasitic draw, I just installed a battery disconnect switch from Amazon for $10.
Upvote. If you're not getting it fixed right away, this will ease some of your headaches. I prefer this style, but to each their own. http://www.amazon.com/Post-Battery-Master-Disconnect-Switch/dp/B001N729FS
> but at that rate I'm better off charging my batteries with my diesel's alternator
Yep. I frequently ask people on this sub why they think solar is so important when they're driving around in something that generates electricity already. Solar is expensive. It doesn't work in Seattle except for three weeks in August. Unless you're in the desert southwest, you need to have sufficient battery capacity for multiple days without sun which means you need an even bigger solar panel array to recharge that battery pack on the 2 sunny days during a two week period of overcast and showers.
Unless the van is parked somewhere for days and days without moving, just charge the house battery from the alternator. Even if it's parked on a sunny day, there's a huge incentive to park it in the shade to prevent the interior temps from killing anyone inside.
Using the alternator is easy. The absolute brute force, quick-n-dirty, cheap way is to run a #2 or #4 gauge wire from the positive terminal of your your van's battery to the positive terminal of your house battery through a simple switch and a high capacity (100A) fuse.
Under $10 crude switch from any auto parts store: https://www.amazon.com/Post-Battery-Master-Disconnect-Switch/dp/B001N729FS/ You use this to 'disconnect' the wire between the batteries when you park. This prevents that 60W fan you're running 24/7 from running down your starter battery. Get a better switch as your budget allows.
Better is an 'isolation relay' - there are two basic kinds. The inexpensive kind https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005JCX8OY/ requires that you also find a 12v power source that goes active when your ignition is turned on. This powers the relay to connect your house battery to the alternator/starting battery. It's not a big deal, but possibly a small hassle. Any Napa, Reibes, Pep-Boys, Autozone, etc auto parts place will have one.
Or, an automatic type that senses when the voltage on your starter battery rises due to the alternator and then automatically connects your house battery so it gets charged, too. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00400IYTK/ You take the 12v cable from your van battery to one terminal. The 12V from your house battery to the 2nd terminal. And, the last terminal goes to ground.
BTW, I wasn't trying to 'burn you' but rather put some realism into your needs. At least you didn't mention electric heater or electric air conditioning like some folks do. For heating or cooking, gas/propane is the practical way to go. (There are some great, BUT EXPENSIVE, diesel heaters that can tap into your van's fuel system).
For air conditioning, there isn't any van-sized alternative other than a gas powered generator or an electrical outlet near the van.
Good choice on the fridge. And, you're right - it's not a 'now' sort of requirement.
Those battery powered LED things last forever. If you haven't bought any yet, try to get ones with diffusers - intentionally stay away from the brightest ones you can find. The issue is that in the small confines of a van, they just sear burn marks in your retinas. 'dimmer is better' I have these - multi brightness, magnetic stick on to my van's metal interior: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H731UNS/
I got the non-rechargeable ones but use Amazon Basics Eneloop- equivalent rechargeable AAA batteries: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-AAA-Rechargeable-Batteries-12-Pack/dp/B007B9NXAC/ and a USB recharger for them sort of like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PZ6V99U/
I have one of these. You do not want this 2 ft from your eyes in a van: https://www.amazon.com/BUYGO-11-LED-Outdoor-Lantern-Camping/
Nice score, looks like it has a lot of potential and is near done. If i may add a suggestion, toss a cover on the positive terminal and make sure it is well insulated all the way to the starter/alternator so it doesn't short out. Maybe toss a quick disconnect terminal on the negative side so you can disconnect it if you leave for awhile, or in a hurry if something fishy is going on with your electrical system, never know when those gremlins can attack.
Most auto parts has a + battery terminal replacement that has a on/off switch.. Also doubles as engine kill switch. Cant start it unless someone knows to turn the knob.
I feel like that type of switch won't hold up well. I've seen them used, not on cars, but the clamp force between them needs to be tightened. Still, it should work as intended. Might arc a bit connecting it, but what doesn't.
This is the switch I've seen used before many times.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001N729FS/ref=pd_aw_sim_auto_2?refRID=1GHJA1JCE9CTZC5R36SK
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001P29X4G/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_RsQDub1QPR7JG
That's the exact harness I bought.
just get the appropriate one of these. Makes oil changes take seconds and no dirty hands. Pro tip: add in some plastic tubing and just tuck that shit away and you don’t even need to crawl under your car anymore. They’re dope.
Fumoto F-106N Engine Oil Drain Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003T7XUE4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LhsdzbWY9T49J
This makes things extremely easy to change. Just have a hose and open it up and goes right into your pan.
FYI, one of these gives you the same function in a better design.
http://www.amazon.com/Fumoto-F-106N-Engine-Drain-Valve/dp/B003T7XUE4
Jesus, get one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Fumoto-F-106N-Engine-Drain-Valve/dp/B003T7XUE4
Shit will change your life.
>I should probably do my own oil change, now because it will save me any money (it will actually cost more) but just so that I know what's going on.
If you make a habit of doing your own oil changes, replace oil drain plug with a valve like this one, because fuck oil pans.
https://www.amazon.com/Joes-Racing-32307-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B00404WDUC
Tires are the most important feature on the car for it's performance and safety. You should educate her on how to monitor, and set her tire pressure at regular intervals for her own safety and the safety of those around her. Get a nice tire pressure gauge with a large glow in the dark analog gauge to make reading simple and clear.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00404WDUC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Most simple relays I've used have 3 connections, allowing 2 choices - either NC or NO. Just wire it for what you need.
I can't help with ordering to CA - but this is one where you can see in the pic that you can wire it either way.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E0NTPP4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_67eACbFK3XZPA
I used a reed switch connected to a GPIO port to detect if the door is open. I used Twilio to send me an SMS. I used a relay board (like this one) in parallel with the manual pushbutton to toggle the door. And I used Python to serve the site. Let me know if you have specific questions.
i would use a plain old relay.
something like this and then like you said, heat if too low, fan if too high. i prefer digital temp probes like the ds18b20. It comes in a nice water proof package so you can spill beer (or wine?) on it without worry.
You can look in to these relay modules they are cheap and easy to use. As for your EM interference on you previous project. Did you switch the relay with an output of the Arduino ? Because relay's are using around 50mA when switched while an output can only provide 20mA. The Arduino resets as a result.
Thank you :)
I used a simple 5v relay module, very similar to this one here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E0NTPP4
The one I'm using is very old, bought it years ago and I don't remember w here, but the one in the amazon link above is very close. In my video, I show the module starting at around 6:58 - https://youtu.be/1mtX4kB1EEA?t=418
You can also use a transistor for this. Pretty much any logic-level transistor will do, or any transistor that can be turned on with 5v of power. I'm working on another project to control an RGBW LED strip, for that I'm using transistors and the models I'm using are IRL2203 and IRLU024 MOSFETs.
As promised, here are the links I have bookmarked:
Stock USB Adapter: https://www.carid.com/axxess/retains-oe-usb-adaptor-mpn-ax-mazusb.html?singleid=185736977&url=78716414
Backup Camera Adapter: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120MAZCM6V/Axxess-AX-MAZCAM-6V-Backup-Camera-Harness.html?tp=3486
Backup Camera Adapter Instructions: https://pdf.crutchfieldonline.com/ImageBank/v20170911125100/Manuals/120/120MAZCM6V.PDF
Antenna Adapter: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_12040HD10/Metra-40-HD10-Antenna-Adapter.html?tp=2569
Trim Kit: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120957522B/Metra-95-7522B-Dash-Kit.html?tp=3121
Dash disassembly (CX-5 is identical to 6): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aoncFAELsDQ
Wire Harness: https://www.carid.com/metra/aftermarket-radio-wiring-harness-mpn-70-7903.html?singleid=4732120&url=78716414
Maestro RR (Steering wheel control adapter): https://www.amazon.com/ADS-MRR-Maestro-RR-Universal-Replacement/dp/B00E4W1644
Guide by someone who has done this before: https://www.mazda6club.com/threads/2014-m6gt-pioneer-mvh-2300nex-install-w-bose.434058/
Reverse wire location: https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123840216-2014-mazda-6-reverse-sensor-wire-found-looking-for-VSS-wire-anyone
My Headunit: https://www.kenwood.com/usa/car/navigation_multimedia/ddx9703s/
I did something similar to this with the reverse lights on my truck. I just took shipping tape and sanded it with 550 grit. Then I put the sanded tape on and trimmed it to fit with an Xacto knife. It worked pretty good until the lights shitted out
Buy yourself a bunch of these to throw on around the rack.
I've got em on my light bar and they're pretty bitching.
Here ya go bud -
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00G620ZVU/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?qid=1418492284&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00G620ZVU/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1421734303&sr=8-2&dpPl=1&dpID=51SHgpCt7dL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SY200_QL40
Yeah super easy I think it took 30 minutes total to replace all the lights. The only one I had issues with the lift gate light, I had a hard time figuring out how to get to it. I used this kit it came with a little prying tool to get the lights out. I like them because they give off a much cooler light, which I feel makes the interior feel more modern/luxurious look.
I purchased from here. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HRMSX6W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_y7LFAbXEAVPRF The vanity lights don't always seem to come with, though...
I bought this for my cx-5. I love them.
LEDpartsNow 2013-2018 Mazda CX-5 CX5 LED Interior Lights Accessories Package Replacement Kit (9 Bulbs), WHITE https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HRMSX6W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_D4PG7jevKQdvr
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HRMSX6W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
These are the ones I got. They did fine and the color temperature matches the LED headlights pretty well. Includes all interior lighting and license plate lights.
LEDpartsNow Mazda CX-5 CX5 LED Interior kit 2013-2017 Xenon White Premium LED (9 Pieces) + Pry Tool
i think its either this set of form http://ledpartsnow.com
​
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HRMSX6W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 $17.99 + FS
​
http://www.ledpartsnow.com/1315cx5/ its 15.99 + FS
The first thing I upgraded was my lights. Makes my car automatically look a lot more luxurious.
Installations video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5iKBsisfBs
Amazon Product - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HRMSX6W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
BEFORE YOU BUY!
Hey OP. I have heard of these cool new mirrors that have been out for a few decades. Some cars even have them from the factory.
Cruise control makes highway driving a lot easier. Just stay in the right lane, try to figure out the rough speed of traffic, and go a few km/h below that (this usually ends up being a few km/h above the speed limit, but if you want to go the limit that's fine too).
People can go around you, and with cruise your speed will stay consistent so they have nothing to complain about.
Don't obsess over your rear view. It's good to keep an eye on it in city driving, and obviously you need to check it before slowing down or changing lanes, but when you're going at a constant speed the morons behind you are just going to distract you and stress you out. Your attention needs to be on the road ahead of you.
If the left lane is clear for a while behind you, it's good form to move over if you see cars merging, but certainly not obligatory. You should be able to maintain the same speed. If there are cars coming up in the left lane, don't worry about it.
I would highly recommend you buy convex blind spot mirrors if your car doesn't have them. It does NOT eliminate the need to check over your shoulder for cyclists and pedestrians on surface streets, but can effectively eliminate your blind spots for highway driving. My car has really bad blind spots and they make me feel much more comfortable on the highway.
Jumper cables are good, but a battery jump starter is better.
The most used items in my VEDCs are my first aid kit (bandaids, Tylenol, cuts and scrapes and bites type things) flashlights and a jump starter. I recently had to jump a car which was stuck in a solid line of traffic. No way to get cables to it, but the jump starter handled it in seconds (literally.)
I have different versions in my vehicles, but in my truck I have this one:
DBPOWER 600A 18000mAh Portable Car Jump Starter (up to 6.5L Gas, 5.2L Diesel Engine) Battery Booster and Phone Charger with Smart Charging Port (Black/Red) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D42TYFC
Otherwise you’re clearly extremely well prepared. Safe travels!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01D42TYFC/ref=mp_s_a_1_4/146-4556599-0064424?ie=UTF8&qid=1509854771&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=battery+jumper+starter&dpPl=1&dpID=51Tb5QEsgAL&ref=plSrch
That's the one I got. Looks like price went up a little but look around there's plenty of others more and less expensive
Thanks for the reminder. Jumped someone a week ago with my portable charger, and I still need to recharge the charger. (It might have enough for a second go, but I'd rather not find out the hard way).
Something like this one -
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D42TYFC/ref=s9_acsd_zgift_hd_bw_bLXhjn_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&pf_rd_r=ZFT3HYSKJ0K4KSPP1H7E&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=a6b3dd3a-5e3d-5661-9134-0d3384e34ec6&pf_rd_i=318336011
I have one of these (DBPOWER 600A Peak 18000mAh Portable Car Jump Starter) charged up and in my "trunk". Actually the little alcove on the left of the trunk. Doubles as a massive portable battery for tablets and phones as well.
Edit: got it on sale for $59 around xmas time.
Along with the converter you linked, use an Add-a-circuit to tap into your fusebox (make sure you buy the ones with the right size for your truck). Use a multimeter to find which fuses are activated when your key is in the ignition.
Personally, I'm using a cigarette lighter socket and usb adapter (like this) instead to wire in my dashcam, but they both do the same thing as the converter you linked.
The last piece of the puzzle is having your Pi shutdown gracefully (via a switch), or even some sort of battery backup. This will prevent corruption of your microSD filesystem, which might occur when simply cutting power to the Pi. There are a bunch of different implementations online on how you can do this.
get a low profile fuse splitter.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DYQM6EO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
For the gun lover in him:
https://www.amazon.com/RYMMES-Magnet-Mount-Holster-Rated/dp/B07CNJSYVG/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=gun+magnet&qid=1567827470&s=gateway&sr=8-1
Gag gift for BBQ's:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002EDXTBS/?tag=097-20&ascsubtag=v7_3_3_93r_7fu_6_x01_-srt5-
Gag gift for basement game night:
https://www.amazon.com/Bud-Light-Bluetooth-Speaker-Universal/dp/B073214RL4/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_107_img_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=5J5P0EQ6JG5AGBEJW7M6
More and more people are switching to minimalist wallets:
https://www.amazon.com/Ridge-Authentic-Minimalist-Blocking-Wallet/dp/B01M5J3NB1/ref=sxin_4_ac_d_rm?ac_md=5-3-cmlkZ2Ugd2FsbGV0-ac_d_rm&keywords=slim+wallet&pd_rd_i=B01M5J3NB1&pd_rd_r=fb567723-84c2-4d4c-b21e-51d382f031ba&pd_rd_w=SkqaJ&pd_rd_wg=H1Hqw&pf_rd_p=404c4843-2c96-4d0d-a5fe-2b0598693e61&pf_rd_r=1XZE9GPYV9339EV4C0BR&qid=1568479111
Can never have enough light if you own land:
https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Portable-Camping-Lantern-Batteries/dp/B01C5QSENQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=led+lantern&qid=1568262448&smid=A99MZGWBBIGK9&sr=8-4
Portable jump starter, could be good since they're secluded:
https://www.amazon.com/GOOLOO-18000mAh-SuperSafe-Starter-Portable/dp/B0748D8KT6/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1Q2A8F30TYJXS&keywords=portable+car+jump+starter&qid=1567875160&s=gateway&sprefix=portable+car+ju%2Caps%2C235&sr=8-5
Gettin up there in age, never lose keys again:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GLXY253/ref=twister_B07H3P7P1C?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Awesome for the tea drinker:
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Stainless-Steel-Electric-Kettle/dp/B072DWYBL7/ref=sxin_3_ac_d_rm?ac_md=0-0-d2F0ZXIgYm9pbGVy-ac_d_rm&keywords=water+boiler&pd_rd_i=B072DWYBL7&pd_rd_r=82445bc3-1356-425b-9c9a-74b33aedcd4f&pd_rd_w=dKQFd&pd_rd_wg=x3oY0&pf_rd_p=404c4843-2c96-4d0d-a5fe-2b0598693e61&pf_rd_r=FECY2A01DTHMTKSKSVDX&qid=1567875726&s=gateway
Good smart house starter kit:
https://www.amazon.com/Gosund-Compatible-Required-appliances-Certified/dp/B079MFTYMV/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=wifi+plug&qid=1567958319&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExNEI5TUwyNVJLVDZMJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTM4MjA3MVlHMzVNRTFYWlZZUiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNTQ1Nzg1MjAyV1BNSjAyUlhMUCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
I've owned and used this compressor over the past five years and it's been great. Viair 00088 88P Portable Air Compressor. It does connect directly to the battery but that prevents blowing fuses when trying to use the 12v outlet in most cars.
On battery jumpers I've tried a few but found the GOOLOO 800A Peak 18000mAh SuperSafe Car Jump Starter works very well. I've owned three of them. The first time I had to use it was after it had been sitting in my trunk for six months without a recharge and it worked like a champ. I gave that one to my brother in-law as it was his battery that was dead and we were parting ways after a road trip vacation. I bought a replacement and have used it probably a dozen times, often when I see someone with their hood up in a parking lot and offer them a jump start - works every time.
Just got a roll of the tape off amazon and laid down on the concrete and slapped it on there myself.
[Link](Trimbrite T1218 Trim Stripe Red 1/4 Tape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00029XBBE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ulLoDbVD4ZEBN)
Did you buy this one? https://www.amazon.ca/Trimbrite-T1218-Trim-Stripe-Tape/dp/B00029XBBE/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1549729531&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=trimbrite+pinstripe&dpPl=1&dpID=51gv6EF%2BViL&ref=plSrch
Hey, glad you liked it. I used this. Was super cheap and very easy to put in place. You'll need a steady hand and some patience but overall it's not too hard. If you check my other submissions here, you'll see I did the front bumper, side fender badges, and mirrors with this same tape. Just take your time, use wax / grease remover, and clean the area with isopropyl alcohol before laying it down.
Holding up great. Trimbrite T1218 Trim Stripe Red 1/4 Tape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00029XBBE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CjGUDbTKJEJ2X
I just bought this one and did it myself actually. Any good generic 3M-type stripe tape should work well.
http://www.amazon.com/Trimbrite-T1218-Trim-Stripe-Tape/dp/B00029XBBE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453491270&sr=8-1&keywords=trimbrite+red+pinstripe
Trimbrite T1218 Trim Stripe Red 1/4 Tape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00029XBBE/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_Rhc0zbCY1SCM1
https://www.amazon.com/Trimbrite-T1218-Trim-Stripe-Tape/dp/B00029XBBE/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=red+pinstripe&qid=1556205582&s=gateway&sr=8-5
Something along these lines
1/8 in.1/4 in. red pinstripe from Amazon. I may redo it. Two lessons I learned:Might be better buying the pre-cut stripe from FT86SF, but all in all the red chin and the side markers took less than half an hour.
Edit: Apparently it was 1/4 in. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00029XBBE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thank you! I often stare at that ass also when I walk away
I love the eyesight, it's something I didn't think I would need, but after having it, I can't live without it. I use it frequently on the freeway. Only caution I would throw in is if you know there's traffic, don't rely on eyesight's breaking, because it sometimes catches completely stopped traffic a tad late, and breaks really hard. When it accelerates, it tends to accelerate pretty hard too.
I typically throw on the adaptive cruise control and lane guard and cruise on the freeway.
I bought this tape for the red trims.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00029XBBE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I taped it along the grooves in the back, turned out better than I expected!
It's just 4-inch red automotive pinstriping. I got it at my local O'Reilly Auto Parts for like $4.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00029XBBE/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1502113381&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=trimbrite&dpPl=1&dpID=51gv6EF%2BViL&ref=plSrch
http://www.amazon.com/Roadpro-Battery-Clip-On-Cigarette-Lighter/dp/B00065L2D8/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_img_z
just add car battery and cigarette lighter adapter to multiple outlets
No problem. Do you have the cigarette outlet style adapter? If so, then you need something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Roadpro-Battery-Cigarette-Lighter-Adapter/dp/B00065L2D8
We use the same hmmwv, no armor. There are 2 latches under the passenger seat. One up front, one on the side. Unlatch them and you will be able to lift the seat from the front. caption There is a small gap you will be able to run the wire out once you clipped the leads on the terminals. You could get something like this. This but the wire might not be long enough and the clamps might not be large enough but you get the idea. RadioShack will have all the parts & pieces too. Item of interest; there are 2 batteries under that seat (since it's a 24v system) running in parallel (not series right?) So make sure when you clamp your leads you do them both on the same battery and not the + of one and - of the other bc your charger is meant for 12v. You guys don't have LMTV?
So something like this connected to the battery under the seat?
Oh boy you're in for a treat! You can run those off of any 12v battery, you just need to connect it like this or if you are feeling janky, you can just connect directly to the little plug. Gimme an hour or so and I can get you some pictures of what I mean.
I have blind spot mirrors for my car. They give me absolute confidence when changing lanes, no straining my neck. Every time I change lanes, I glance at the mirrors.
See here: http://www.amazon.com/Custom-Accessories-71121-Blind-Mirror/dp/B000BOAX1G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404592514&sr=8-1&keywords=blind+spot+mirror
Spend $4, save a life.
You probably know this, but I'll throw it out there. You can buy little "blind spot mirrors" that stick to your side-view mirrors. You put them in the corner and they show the blind spot because they're convex.
https://smile.amazon.com/Custom-Accessories-71121-Blind-Mirror/dp/B000BOAX1G?sa-no-redirect=1
These are nice as well
CRC Disc Brake Quiet http://www.amazon.ca/CRC-Disc-Brake-Quiet-05016/dp/B000CINV88
https://www.amazon.com/CRC-Disc-Brake-Quiet-05016/dp/B000CINV88
I use this applied to the back of the brake pads. I have never had a car make brake noise for a long long time with this stuff applied onto the back of the pads and calipers lubed up.
https://www.amazon.com/CRC-Disc-Brake-Quiet-05016/dp/B000CINV88/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1494050530&sr=8-2&keywords=brake+pad+grease
I have always used the same stuff I use on the pins on the ears. I think you can put it on the back too, but I use this stuff: https://smile.amazon.com/CRC-05016-Disc-Brake-Quiet/dp/B000CINV88
I have no idea if that stuff works or not to tell you the truth, it's just what my dad always used and it doesn't seem to cause any problems. The $6 bottle will last me decades.
https://www.amazon.com/CRC-Disc-Brake-Quiet-05016/dp/B000CINV88
You talking about this stuff which I was told to put on the slide pins and "ears" of the brake pads? Or this other stuff which clearly advertises stopping squeaks but I've never used and really don't know where I'm supposed to apply it?
Also where am I supposed to apply it and what is the difference between them? Could I use both? Also can I use it on my motorcycle because the front brake squeaks constantly even tho the pads are fine?
I have the same car, put a green filter in it! Trust me, you'll love the sound.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CMHIR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Plm0xb6E2613Z
Here you go! https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000CMHIR4/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000CMHIR4/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Not sure if this will work since I'm on mobile
Heated seats...sounds like you got the Mazda 3s Grand Touring. Assuming you have the factory HID's and LED tail lights, so no need to upgrade those. Unless you can find the clear projector lens to swap into your headlights.
Summer tires, if you live in the right climate. Extremely durable, better performing, and with better ride quality Koni FSD dampers as the OEM ones fail/leak prematurely. OEM big brake kit. Lots of advantages to this versus an aftermarket braking solution.
Do you have the manual transmission? OEM leather and piano black shift knob from European markets. OEM heated side view mirrors if not equipped, which I've found to clear away fog and rain pretty quickly. The Corksport Mazda3/Mazdaspeed3 steering wheel looks really, really good and almost OEM (black inserts/black stitching). Aftermarket HVAC knobs.
Speaking of rain, Valeo 900 Series/Ultimate wipers for a cleaner & more premium OEM look. Did the +1 driver/-1 passenger mod and lowered the passenger/right side windshield wiper to a more tucked position, and it won't flap at very high speeds or windy conditions.
LED interior/exterior lights - For the trunk, get this in the 5K color. For your license plate and front map lights, get these in the 5K color. Haven't found any rear dome festoon/DE3175 LED bulbs that I'm happy with yet (VLEDS, Retrofit Source, ijdmtoy, superbrightleds, Corksport, etc). Not bright enough, not white enough (usually a blue tint), bleeds different colors, etc. I may try an interior set from GTA Retrofits. For your glove box, either this in 5,000K or a Sylvania/Philips/Osram 194 LED bulb in 6,000K. Went with the latter since they were left over from experimentation and are actually closer to a 5,000-5,500K, even though they're listed as 6,000K.
Fiamm low tone horn to compliment the wimpy high tone.
There's more but that's all I have time for =)
I watched this vid and purchased the same horn soon after. It's decent, and not douche-level loud. He has a bunch of vids on wrenching and modding VStars.
You can get the horn on Amazon here.
I have 2 FIAMM 721X2 horns, they are the standard electromechanical type like this. There's really not much difference between this horn and any other standard automotive horn, they're all very similar.
Here's one for sale on amazon, but I got them as a two pack with both the high-low tone horns in one package from an auto parts store. Here's the exact converter I had.
I don't understand why this information is of any use, I would think component level model numbers like what chip was actually used in the converter, what the switching transistor, output capacitors, etc would be 1000x more useful.
You must take a part front bumper. But Ieave undercover bolts. You have to take other bolts tho from tire and top part. It opens like books. And you can just put it back. No car lifting. Its on youtube and amazon is pretty good. I just replaced with this.
FIAMM 72112 Freeway Blaster Low Note Horn https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000DINKPQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3iI6Cb1BXRJPR
I use this one and the high tone one and they are loud as hell.
Bought this exact one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000DINKPQ
Easy.
https://amzn.com/B000DINKPQ $15.
https://amzn.com/B004UOVBAU $12.45
Buy several to really multiply the drown-out-ability.
There are multiple sizes available on Amazon, here's one example . Just stick on the oil pan, and maybe one under your battery.
If you're riding in cold/chilly weather, consider a heating pad on the case/oil pan like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Kats-24150-Watt-Universal-Heater/dp/B000I8TQD6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1457748904&sr=8-4&keywords=katz+pad
You could take a route similar to mine, you can view my trip log here:
Also, for your water tanks I would suggest maybe getting a heating pad or two? They are designed to heat large tanks or in my case, I use it to heat my oil pan.
Hot Pads
They make magnetic ones you can just stick on your oil pan and plug it in. https://www.amazon.com/Kats-24150-Watt-Universal-Heater/dp/B000I8TQD6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1549848405&sr=8-2&keywords=magnet+block+heater
Oh thanks for the tip! How would you clip it on?
Would this work for heat?
Kat's 24150 150 Watt 4"x 5" Universal Hot Pad Heater https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I8TQD6/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_9O6Hub1RH35ZH
Well you say you warm the engine up for 10mins, but that's only the engine, your trans will still be 90% cold (all but little bit of conductive heat from the engine). Do you happen to have a garage? You could get a transmission pan heater (might as well get an oil pan heater too) then you can just set one of those wall timer things, just wire them up so the cords are on the driver's side, and hopefully you have an outlet on the driver's side, then you can just plug them in when you get home and unplug them before you leave. I'd set the timer 2 hours before you leave, and then you could start your truck like 5 minutes before you leave (just so the oil has enough time to go through everything, but the block should be warm anyways, just an extra safety measure i guess). I'd highly recommend doing it.
Heater
Mechanical Timer
Like PatAunces said, you're battery is probably dead. Hopefully it's not dead dead.
If you have accesses to an outlet here are a couple of items that will make future cold starts easier:
Battery Thermal Wrap
Universal Hot Pad Heater
You could also look into picking up a battery charger that supports trickle charges and leave it on your battery over night.
I have an old SUV that sits outside and only gets driven every other month. I disconnect the battery when I park it. If I don't the battery is dead in less than a week.
Thanks for the tips. I'm kicking myself because I just donated a box of old wall transformers that I would've saved had I known. I know I have a couple of 12v/5amp wall transformers from old HDDs that I might try for home use. I was thinking about this adapter for car use.
 
I was also wondering if you knew what sort of antenna I should look for. The radio came with a small one, however the wiring on the antenna doesn't connect to the radio correctly. The radio has a screw type mount I'm not familiar with, but was hoping it might be a cb standard and easy to find a replacement for.
The Uniden 520 is a great choice for a basic radio. I've been using one for years with excellent results. It's really hard to beat for the size/money.
Consider the K30 magnet mount antenna for an alternative in that size.
I've used both it and the Little Wil and found the K30 to perform noticeably better. It's also less expensive:
http://www.amazon.com/K40-K-30-Stainless-Magnet-Antenna/dp/B000H2W270/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417900765&sr=8-2&keywords=K30
The other commenter that suggested getting an SWR meter is also correct. These antennas all require some degree of adjustment for optimal performance. Just a basic meter will work fine.
http://www.amazon.com/Astatic-PDC1-100-Watt-Meter/dp/B004ULN610/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417900872&sr=8-1&keywords=SWR+meter
And the jumper:
http://www.amazon.com/Procomm-Coaxial-Cable-Jumper-Connectors/dp/B003DRJ738/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_text_y
The meter and jumper is something you'll very rarely need (just when moving the setup to a different vehicle, for the most part) so if you husband has a friend into CB or HAM operation, he may be able to borrow one for a few minutes rather than buying.
Finally, you'll need some way to power the radio. The easiest way is with a lighter plug:
http://www.amazon.com/Roadpro-Fused-Replacement-Cigarette-Lighter/dp/B0016LG0CY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417901045&sr=8-1&keywords=lighter+plug
Just cut the connectors off the ends of the wires and splice it with the ones on the radio.
Alternatively, you can connect to the fuse box with an Add-A-Circuit. These come in different sizes depending on the fuses in your car. You can get one of these for less than $10 at any auto parts store.
Running it to the battery is the best option. You would need to run the wire under your carpet, find or drill a hole in your firewall and thread it through. If you don't want to go through that trouble you can just use a cigarette lighter plug
Would one of these be better than the other?
http://smile.amazon.com/Roadpro-Fused-Replacement-Cigarette-Lighter/dp/B0016LG0CY?sa-no-redirect=1
http://smile.amazon.com/Auto-Button-Cigarette-Lighter-Black/dp/B0090149R0/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1420742893&sr=1-2&keywords=cigarette+lighter+plug
http://smile.amazon.com/K40-K403CBPP-2-Wire-Cigarette-Lighter/dp/B001JT98S6/ref=pd_sbs_auto_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=06E9J8F93C84MQ2G79PE
TIA
Its doable with two cheap adapters. You need to forget the trailer plug. Wire the 12v light strip to a male cigarette lighter plug. Then purchase an adapter that plugs into the wall socket and has a female 12v PowerPoint.
https://www.amazon.com/110V-240V-Adapter-Converter-Universal-Socket/dp/B001TXUU98
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0016LG0CY/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1479319943&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=male+12v+power+connector&dpPl=1&dpID=31wW9GnDb1L&ref=plSrch
There is /r/cbradio, but I pretty much just googled everything. I bought these items and I'm pretty happy with them:
Uniden 520XL - Nice, small, cheap radio
Cigarette Lighter Power Adapter
K40 Magnet Mount Antennae with wiring - it is 15 feet of wire so that should be enough to go from the trunk lid to your dash.
SWR tester - this is to test your SWR and make sure the antennae is tuned properly, it also comes with a jumper wire to connect to your radio
If you need help with anything let me know. The CB has been very helpful on I-75, but on Daniels in Fort Myers and Golden Gate Parkway in Naples I have not had any success getting traffic updates etc. which I expected, but it's definitely super helpful on the interstate.
Yeah.. it's been a PITA so far because I've blown two fuses inside this piece of crap cigarette lighter plug w/ leads..
What did you do for this?
I have used this and this. It does the job. The down side is it takes a little bit to get it paired up every time and then it displays in SD. You won't need a chrome cast, it has it built in.
I have one, works great, however it was a little confusing for me at first, but now that I get the menus it is great.
I picked up one of these for my power supply and I was going to just clip off the cigarette lighter and solder the thing together with the charger, then I realized I can get one of these and now I can use the charger in my car too. The power supply may be a little weak, since I can only charge at 5.8Amps max, but it works for me, and was cheap.
I also picked up this and this now I can charge just about anything.
Yea. Uses a wingnut thing. https://www.amazon.com/Post-Battery-Master-Disconnect-Switch/dp/B001N729FS
https://www.amazon.com/Post-Battery-Master-Disconnect-Switch/dp/B001N729FS
​
While you are figuring out what the issue is. . .
Leave the positive alone and disconnect the ground. Also if your are going to leave the vehicle sitting for extended periods you should get a quick disconnect. Something like this http://www.amazon.com/Post-Battery-Master-Disconnect-Switch/dp/B001N729FS.
You mean one of these?
http://www.amazon.com/Post-Battery-Master-Disconnect-Switch/dp/B001N729FS
Ask your dealer if that $150 includes KY or whether that costs extra, too. If you can open a can by yourself, you can install one in about 5 minutes. You just need a wrench (or socket) that fits the nut on your car's battery terminal (the black wire that attaches to the battery).
If anything a harness won't hurt. I upgraded to the Hella e-codes and versus stock wiring there was a noticeable increase in light output.
https://www.amazon.com/Putco-230004HW-Premium-Automotive-Lighting/dp/B001P29X4G
I'm thinking it's your headlight switch or this is your problem...
http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f59/putco-harness-re-designed-167600/#post2420785
http://www.amazon.com/Putco-230004HW-Premium-Automotive-Lighting/dp/B001P29X4G
I had a similar issue with my XJ. Electronically there is no other form of resistance on the wire when off then the switch and over time it can wear out just like any other component. I installed this wiring harness that added relays to the circuit. not only does it brighten up your headlights but it removes the load from your switch. Its a really simple install, the hardest part is taking off the grill.
I got the Hella housings that take an H4 bulb, then put SilverStars in them because I like the nice white color temperature.
I think the biggest difference honestly came from this harness. With it bypassing the stock wiring (if I remember correctly it just uses the stock light cables to trip the relays) it can supply a lot more juice from the battery.
I have the 55/60 watt bulbs now, but I might swap in the 90/100's when these go since the harness can support them.
This would be the better option, wouldn't it? It converts it from 9004 to H4 safely?
https://www.amazon.com/Putco-230004HW-Premium-Automotive-Lighting/dp/B001P29X4G
Unfortunately if you are on a paved road, its illegal to have auxiliary lights turned on (unless its a private road). Have you considered upgrading to an H4 harness on your lights with relays?
http://www.amazon.com/Putco-230004HW-Premium-Automotive-Lighting/dp/B001P29X4GGGGG
Also, how old are the current headlights? Over time, bulbs get dim. If they are really old, you may just need new lights
It says it doesn't fit, but it does. Trust me, I'm a stranger on the internet.
The thing that sucks about Cherokee headlights IS the wiring.
Buy this and install it.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001P29X4G/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/184-6657873-1060049
Changing the lights themselves will not help without feeding them ample current.
Stock lights work GREAT after you fix the wiring.
Jesus. That's terrible. Don't go to a dealer.
https://www.amazon.com/Subaru-15208AA15A-Oil-Filter/dp/B00I798FIA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484523047&sr=8-1&keywords=crosstrek+oil+filter
Filter : 8.50
https://www.amazon.com/Fumoto-F-106N-Engine-Drain-Valve/dp/B003T7XUE4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484523075&sr=8-1&keywords=fumoto+valve
Fumoto 25 bucks so you have a clean easy drain for when you keep doing it in the future.
https://www.amazon.com/Pennzoil-550038221-Platinum-5W-30-Synthetic/dp/B00ELHNM3K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484523115&sr=8-3&keywords=pennzoil+ultra+platinum+5w30
35 for pennzoil oil thats way better than whatever generic shit theyre pumping into your car.
So its 44 bucks for the oil and the filter for premium oil. 70 with the sweet valve that will make it a snap for the rest of your life.
Also, if you're considering paying 79 for a cabin air filter FYI you can get one for 12 bucks on amazon and pop out your glove box in 3 minutes and do it yourself.
Dude, idk if you drive German or not but I have a VW and got sick of replacing the crush washer ever 3 times so found this: https://www.amazon.com/Fumoto-F-106N-Engine-Drain-Valve/dp/B003T7XUE4
Been using it for 5 years now, no issues at all!
I have a 2015 Touring. I added 30% tint on the front (which nicely matches the rear privacy glass), OEM window deflectors, Rokblokz mudflaps, JBR Rear sway bar and brackets (to reduce body roll in cornering), Fumoto Oil Valve - F-106N(for easier oil changes), McGard Spline Drive Lugs, and changed my wheels to Rays RE30s 18x7.5 +50 with Yokohama YK740 GTX 235 /60 R18 tires.
All these mods were easy to install, except for the RSB. That took a bit of time, but the install instructions are detailed and straight forward.
Happy modding!
It's a DIY version of this...
http://www.amazon.com/Fumoto-F-106N-Engine-Drain-Valve/dp/B003T7XUE4
So in my 06 LBZ I moved from conventional oil to a synthetic blend (T5) then to a full synthetic (Shell Rotella T6) at my last oil change. I also purchased a fumoto valve, that replaces your drain plug at the bottom of the oil pan, and has a ball valve in it, so you can hook up a hose, and then open the valve and cleanly drain your oil into a catch pan, or jugs or whatever your using. Now that I'm at 10k mile intervals with the T6 and I don't daily drive my Duramax anymore, I haven't had to do an oil change yet, but will be doing one at the end of the summer. Lots of oil threads on duramaxforum.com as well.
There are easier ways to achieve this...
Not digital, but this analog gauge has been great: Joes Racing 32307 (0-60) PSI Tire Pressure Gauge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00404WDUC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1mIBybTCYX6MQ
I've gifted it to several relatives. The large dial, half pound accuracy, and bleed off valve are great features.
I like the ones with a flex hose section like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Joes-Racing-32307-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B00404WDUC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1406822942&sr=8-3&keywords=air+tire+pressure+gauge
or
http://www.amazon.com/Campbell-Hausfeld-MP6000-Inflator-Gauge/dp/B0007ZJ1IK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1406822827&sr=8-4&keywords=air+tire+pressure+gauge
https://www.amazon.com/Joes-Racing-32307-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B00404WDUC
I have one of these that I consistently use, which is the main thing. Get something that is of good quality, and use it almost exclusively if you can. I like the ease of something with a bleed-off valve, since ease of use will encourage you to check your tire pressure often.
I got something similar myself without the Snap-On premium several years back.
Best advice is to keep it simple. Focus on brakes and tires first! Do some basic setup and then recognize while you are on track when you are at the limit of your basic setup, then go from there.
You already have SS brake lines, good! Fill them with good 600°F brake fluid (several were mentioned already). Do this every few events and be meticulous about doing it RIGHT and making sure there are NO LEAKS. Safety first! This and pads are your #1 safety item. Then an instructor, then good tires, helmet, seat belts, etc. Again, keep it simple.
Parts:
Use whatever rotors are on the car for now, and buy a set of these as backup whenever htey start to warp: Centric 120.40048CRY Cryostop Rotor
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003K1H2V6
Brake Pads, order a set of Hawk HP+ pads. You will get advice all over the board on what is best and blah blah blah. These are great bang for your buck and you can street them as well.
Hawk Performance HB361N.622 HP Plus Brake Pad
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IEYNOM
Fronts are most important, do all 4 corners once you start to get comfortable with the car and/or go to a bigger track.
Think you're done with brakes? NOPE! Now let's talk heat. You're just starting to go on the track and want to be out for as long as possible to work on consistency and technique. If you're going to do any sizeable track with big braking zones you will want some way to keep the brakes cool. A lot of people poo-poo this step and then complain about how the stock brakes suck SO bad. I have had my s2k on CoTA, Road America, and BIR with zero brake fade with the setup I'm describing.
Option one: remove the dust shields, this will help reduce captivated heat
Option two: brake duct kit. DIY worked best for me:
-Lambert spindle mounts: http://www.lapponline.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65_66_67&products_id=180
-Front Bumper inlets. WASP makes nice stuff but they SUCK to deal with and idk if they're even in business anymore. Several other options out there.
-Aircraftspruce.com has all the ducts and such you need:
Qty Ship B/O Item Unit Price Total Price
11 05-29910 SCAT-10 DUCTING 2 1/2" 7.500 82.50
6 QS200-40H BREEZE CLAMP 200-40H 1.880 11.28
1 01-00990 RESCUE TAPE 1" X 12' BLACK 9.350 9.35 (helps with rubbing)
3 05-02200 RUBBER "U" CHANNEL 1.350 4.05
50 11-04229 7" 50LB NATURAL CABLE TIES MS3367-1-9 0.040 2.00
50 11-13475 14" 120LB NATURAL CABLE TIES MS3367-3-9 0.150 7.50
50 11-04058 14" 50LB NATURAL CABLE TIES MS3367-2-9 0.090 4.50
Subtotal: USD 121.18
Ok great, now you have good brakes, you already said you have RS3 tires on there, buy a nice tire gauge and keep an eye on pressures & tire wear!
Joes Racing 32307
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00404WDUC
While you're at it, check the oil. Seriously, these things can (but don't necessarily) burn through a lot of oil depending on conditions and the track. Just keep an eye on it and plan for keeping an eye on it. Not a bad thing.
Get a good basic alignment on the car, max out the stock adjusters for camber front and rear, zero toe front and about .25" total toe in the rear, then you're good to go! If you are feeling DIY-ish pick up a Quick Trick alignment kit to bust this out quick and easy in your garage or at the track.
Once you get comfy with the car however you have it setup today suspension/wheel-wise, you can start to look at a few next-steps. Do all of these at the same time as its the combo that shines over any one part.
-lowering springs/coilovers (I did ohlins, so awesome)
-front swaybar (A simple eibach will do!)
-front bumpsteer correction kit/spacers
-17x8.5 or 17x9 square wheel setup with 255/40-17 tires. RS3's, Maxxis, VR1, are great lapping-day options. RE71R for quick/short/fast hot laps.
1 rule: HAVE FUN!
I think having an accurate gauge is important, I tend to trust the mechanical gauges a little more and I don't worry about dead batteries. I also try to buy American when possible :)
Joes Racing
Get yourself a nice gauge like this: http://amzn.com/B00404WDUC
Makes a world of difference. It's got a pressure release button and a lot more accurate than the pencil style that a lot of people use.
I tinkered with two different methods, both of them use Gordon's WiringPi library to manipulate the GPIO. One of the setups uses a PowerSwitch Tail II to power off the entire machine and the other method used a simple relay to toggle the reset button. My preferred method was the firs method because it FORCED power off no matter how frozen the mobo was.
By the way - the close observer will notice that the PowerSwitch Tail is really just a relay enclosed in a box. I prefer to use it when handling 120V AC so I don't make shiny sparks.
there are easier solutions but since this is DIY I recently put together a circuit using one of these
https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Version-NodeMCU-Internet-Development/dp/B010O1G1ES/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466965785&sr=8-1&keywords=nodemcu+v3
It's programmed via the arduino IDE and is simple enough with a bit of googling for any programmer to get working. I have it connected to one of these
https://www.amazon.com/SunFounder-Shield-Module-Arduino-Channel/dp/B00E0NTPP4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1466965844&sr=8-4&keywords=arduino+relay
3 wires from the nodemcu to the relay. VCC, ground and one of the datapins. Just make sure you use the 5V pin for VCC as the 3.3V ones didn't work.
Then apply power to the relay and he nodemcu. I used an old 5V cellphone charger that I cut the plug off of and direct wired it to the boards. After that I made a short 6" extension cord and split one of the wires. It goes into the relay. After that it just works.
You will need a way to solder the wires and a breadboard lets you test before doing the final wiring.
Maybe I'm not quite following, but wouldn't you use something like this bulb:
https://www.amazon.com/BYB-Ceramic-Infrared-Emitter-Brooder/dp/B00HFNZ59Q
plugged into this to secure it:
https://www.amazon.com/Simple-Deluxe-Listed-Aluminum-Reflector/dp/B01E9IY6US
with one of the wires cut and running through this to switch it on and off:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E0NTPP4
First this going to be removed as what to buy questions go in the meagthread sticked at the top of the feed. As for the fireplace, I don't recommend it when you're dealing with something that could set you house on fire. People do put switches on fire places here though. You can use any switch for the fan as all HomeKit switches support timers. Make a scene that turns the fan on. Set an automation for when the fan turns on turn on the scene. Make sure that the timer setting at the bottom is set to how long you want it on.
​
Edit: Found this on a forum.
>I was able to get this to work, though with a much different setup than I was initially envisioning.
>
>The fireplace I was working used a low-voltage switch on the wall with a 2-wire cable between that and the fireplace guts (below the firebox). It also has 2 outlets in that same area: one labeled REMOTE and one labeled FAN. As far as I know, both outlets are always on and the labels are just for fun.
>
>Here is what I did:
- Caseta plug-in lamp dimmer plugged into one of the outlets
- Set this dimmer to switch mode (no dimming) - see Caseta Advanced Installation Guide for details
- Plugged a 5V DC power adapter I had laying around into the dimmer
- Connected the output of the DC adapter to the input of a relay. I used the Sunfounder 2-channel 5V relay module
- Cut the cable that went to the wall switch and connected it to the output of the relay instead of the switch
>
>This solution does completely disable the wall switch but - in my case - it was in a crappy location anyway.
>
>Some other notes on this:
>
>- I got a 2-channel relay module since it was cheap and readily available but only one channel was needed
- I was a bit worried about the heat in the area with the electronics but I measured the temperature of the dimmer with one of those point-and-read thermometers after the fireplace was on for a while and it came up at 105. The specs for the Caseta say the operating temp tops at 104 but it's been running for over a month now and - so far so good.
​
I really wouldn't worry about relays failing. You aren't talking about tons of cycles or fast cycles, high amperage, or whatever. Using a SSR would be fine for sure, I made a PID to control a freezer ~10-15A draw using a 40A SSR that has run day and night for years without failure.
Here's one from amazon that I have used.
https://www.amazon.com/SunFounder-Channel-Optocoupler-Expansion-Raspberry/dp/B00E0NTPP4/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1494422744&sr=8-5&keywords=arduino+relay
Sample relay or mosfet
So, here it goes, feel free to PM if I leave anything unclear.
Sorry if I was unclear....you need to have the Pi first and then building an outlet or switch is pretty cheap. The Pi and other stuff (case, sd card, powersupply) will total out to about $50 but is completely worth it because of all the other stuff you can do with them (media server, web server, whole home ad blocking, game emulation, etc)
Ill start with how to get the pi to control things and then explain how to get the echo to control the pi...
If you only want to control led strip lighting IIRC a lot of them have IR remotes and the simplest solution is probably to build an IR blaster (you will need a couple basic electronic components but cost is less than $10 even if you buy from a radioshack), and then use LIRC (http://www.lirc.org/) to emulate the remote with the Pi. The added bonus is you can then control any other IR remote device (you tv, stereo etc).
If you don't go the IR route you will use a relay to act as a switch. I have used a number of these guys for various projects: relay The basics of a relay is a small voltage opens and closes a magnetic switch that is controlling a much larger voltage. So the 3.3 volts a "general purpose input/output" (GPIO) pin a raspberry pi generates can open or close the other side of the relay that can handle household voltage. I should add the caution..."don't mess with household voltage unless you really know what you are doing you can burn down your house and kill yourself". Anyway the idea is you build a box (think electrical gang box from a home improvement store) where the power comes into the relay and then leaves onto an outlet that you want to control. I have built a couple that are the relay and outlet all in one retrofit outlet box all mounted into the wall (the relay is hidden behind the outlet it is controlling. Then you run some small gague wire (telephone 4 conductor wire works well) from the relay to the pi. The end result is the pi sends voltage on one line to the relay, the relay closes connecting the household voltage to the outlet and whatever is connected to the relay turns on. I usually include a inline 10amp fuze as well because the relays are only rated to 10A and all my breakers are 15A.
Anyway, now you have a raspberry pi that can turn an outlet on and off to tie to the echo you use a piece of software called HA-Bridge . It allows you pi to emulate a smart home device Alexa will recognize. Alexa sends on/off command to the emulated device and the pi can trigger a script to carry out your desired intent.
Right now I can walk into my basement and say "Echo, turn on the basement" Where basement is a group (grouped int he Alexa app) of several devices all emulated by the pi and the pi turns on the Tv and receiver with ir commands from LIRC, the lamps controlled by a relay turning on and off the power to a couple outlets and the Christmas Tree that is plugged into a single relay controlled outlet.
Hope this helps, it sounds like a ton of stuff but is very doable.
This should work for your relays: http://www.amazon.com/SunFounder-Channel-Shield-Arduino-Raspberry/dp/B00E0NTPP4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1449242914&sr=8-4&keywords=arduino+relay+board
It's "meant" for an Arduino, but should work with the Pi with a bit of work. It triggers on a 5v input from the Arduino, so you'd need to get the 3.3v line from the Pi's GPIO up to 5v to make it work.
You'll want to figure out the pinout of that plug with a voltmeter. I'm guessing that one of those is common and the other two are for separate banks of LEDs. To control these, you'd run the common straight through and interrupt the two banks with the relays.
As far as Pi vs Arduino, you'll have to do some tinkering either way. Neither have a RTC (real time clock) built in, so you'll either need an RTC shield or connect the Pi to a network connection so it can get the time via NTP. The Pi's main disadvantage is the 3.3v GPIO, while the Arduino's output is natively 5v.
Personally I'd use the Arduino and a cheap RTC: http://www.amazon.com/Donop-DS3231-AT24C32-precision-Arduino/dp/B00HCB7VYS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1449243489&sr=8-2&keywords=arduino+rtc
Thanks, you're right actually. Since my question is safety related, it's more than reasonable to be precise.
I meant this one
I am not sure if you are asking how to do this as well as if it's ok to do it but Check out this relay.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E0NTPP4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I use it to trigger my Garage door from a Pi. It also works with an Arduino.
EASY! you can do the install yourself ALL those Chrysler RES NON boston radios are nothing special. i done a FULL system in my 2012 200 (dual amps, new speakers, head unit and subwoofer). Right so head over to amazon or crutchfeild.
for a new radio you'll need a idatalink RR module and CH-1 plug and play harness to retain your steering wheel buttons.
for your dash kit to fit a new radio you have 2 options. SINGLE DIN: Best Kits BKCDK644 DOUBLE DIN: Best Kits BKCDK642 Since you want a touch screen you need the double din kit
SPEAKERS: Doors and rear deck are 6x9s and dash are 3.5's. for the doors NO ADAPTERS ARE NEEDED and MOST 3.5's for the dash wont need mounting adapters either. But check on crutchfied for fit as the real nice chunky woofers dont fit. But Rockford Fosgate PUNCH, Infinity reference, Kenwood Excelon and Focal Integration will drop right in if you just cut the plastic "cup" the original speakers sit in.
​
you do have to pop the door panels off to get to the speakers and the dash speakers you have to take the A-pillar trim pieces off. rear deck the rear seat needs folded down and more C-pillar plastic trim popped off. theres better guides online then i can describe on a text post.
​
the best buy free installation probably doesnt include the smart harness required to swap out the factory radio
I don't think so, i'm pretty sure it's the iDatalink Maestro ADS-MRR module that is relaying the information to the stock display, which is a really nice feature
You may want to look into this converter and do some research.
Remember 10?-14 radios are for the most part identical. With almost any new vehicle the temp controls are mixed in with the stereo.
Your going to need everything you would normally need for a stereo install. Wire harness, Antenna adaptor, ect.
If you have sync and want to continue to use the wheel controls, ect you will need this.
iDatalink Maestro ADS-MRR Factory Integration Adapter by iDatalink Maestro http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E4W1644/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_n4J-tb0474KE1
Lastly you would need the dash kit. There are many to pick from.
Metra 99-5826CH Ford Mustang 2010-Up DIN/DDIN Dash Installation Kit by Metra http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008E9HIPO/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_I2J-tb1PSPNRZ
Scosche FD1441B 2010 Ford Mustang Double DIN and DIN with Pocket by Scosche http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00664KRCU/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_k3J-tb16NT8BY
ADS MUS1 Radio Installation Kit for 2010-2014 Ford Mustang ADS-KIT-MUS1 by ADS Tech http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FEIDS1Q/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_04J-tb1XSYPE7
Metra 99-5823CH Dash Kit for Ford Mustang 2010 Excluding Navigation Equipped Models -Black by Metra http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0040QE8G2/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_n5J-tb1BW2604
This might be an elaborate way of answering your first question, but mostly I wanted to write out my experience of doing this exact thing. Also apparently I need to split this up into 2 replies.
​
I have an AVH-W4400NEX and a 2012 Prius Plug-In. After buying all the stuff I needed...
​
I believe I set aside a Saturday afternoon to swap it out myself, and also install a dash cam with both front and rear cameras (the car already had backup camera built in). I ended up working on this through all of the weekend, and then did some more tweaks the following weekend.
it's complicated, i did it when i first bought my 16'.
and don't let just any audio installer do it, they'll just hack the shit out of the harness.
you need about $200 in parts besides the headunit to do it properly
shit and it looks like the link to the blog on how to do it is gone :(
http://roflitsowens.blogspot.com/2015/12/2016-subaru-wrx-replacing-starlink-head.html
basically you need:
dash install kit
wire to keep OEM backup camera
30pin adapter you'll cut it in half and use it for hooking all these various things together
Maestro to retain steering wheel control, there's a cheaper version though with less features
adapter to retain USB
adapter for stock antenna
adapter for radio so you don't have to cut anything
and i'm pretty sure i'm forgetting something else.
most of these things all have to be wired into the 30 pin connector, it was much easier to figure it all out on my workbench and solder it properly then install everything, took me about 2 days to do.
You can also get this: Amazon
This allows you to hook the steering wheel controls up, as well as allowing deeper integration to the car from the head unit through the CAN bus. I know a lot of the Kenwood Android Auto units have really good integration with this stuff.
Nilight 2PCS 18W 1260lm Spot Driving Fog Light Off Road Led Lights Bar Mounting Bracket for SUV Boat 4" Jeep Lamp,2 years Warranty https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G620ZVU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_5CZeGe4oqjpAW
http://www.amazon.com/Nilight-Driving-Mounting-Bracket-Warranty/dp/B00G620ZVU?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01
Nilight 2 X 18W 1260 lm Cree LED Spot Driving Fog Light LED Work Light Bar Mounting Bracket for SUV Boat 4 x 4 Jeep Lamp, 2 years Warranty https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G620ZVU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_v4BkxbPA8DSJ3
Can you find out the type of bulb it is.You are going to have to do some researching. Why not post a picture of the bulb or does it have markings? There should be a model number on the bulb. Once you have a model number check ebay and select USA only. You might have some luck. I am curious myself. I couldn't find anything after searching.
For the type being why not wire up a cheap handle bar clamp dual sport light or something like that. This one is prime so you can get it in a few days and get back on the road. Even a cheap replacement headlight would work.
https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-Driving-Mounting-Bracket-Warranty/dp/B00G620ZVU/ref=sr_1_7?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1466042201&sr=1-7&keywords=led+mount
What if it is not? It could be a spotlight and look almost the same.
Cammer here: here's a pic of the mount I used.
http://imgur.com/gE4tfiI
I used these mirror mounts from amazon and the hardware from the local hardware store.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AA7OFLI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Here are the lights, not street legal probably. I usually only use them on back roads at night when there are no cars in front of me.
https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-Driving-Mounting-Bracket-Warranty/dp/B00G620ZVU/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1495114704&sr=1-4&keywords=led+fog+lights
Amazon Examples-
Pods: http://www.amazon.com/Off-road-Headlight-Driving-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B00G620ZVU/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1412741662&sr=1-3&keywords=led+light+bar
Bar: http://www.amazon.com/MicTuningTM-brand-Working-Driving-4500Lm/dp/B009C044N8/ref=sr_1_9?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1412741726&sr=1-9&keywords=led+light+13%27%27
There are less expensive versions of this bar and even larger bars as well.
Not sure how to post a pic for you (currently at work and on mobile) but the lights are these: https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-Driving-Mounting-Bracket-Warranty/dp/B00G620ZVU
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00G620ZVU/ref=sr_ph_1?qid=1462412850&sr=sr-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=fog+lights
First of all RGB LEDs are three colors that you can mix to produce most colors. If you just want white light you don't want RGB LEDS.
I bought one of these as a headlight but other come in just about any size you need. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00G620ZVU
cool i think i'll try them. is there a specific brand? are these the ones everyone has good experience with?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HRMSX6W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
A little pricey for what you get, but worth it.
Thanks! I was considering these but they do seem very white: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HRMSX6W/
Yeah I was looking at that. I also noticed a few people on mazda247 went with This kit from Amazon $18.99. A bit curious what the quality difference and brightness is on them.
edit: Ended up ordering these. Someone on Mazda247 was recommending them and talking about how it uses the newer chipset. Not sure what the difference is, but for the price I figured I'd take a shot and if I didn't like it, at least it was a cheap mistake.
Good tip. OP these are called convex mirrors and they're pretty helpful!
look into blind spot mirrors they make me feel safer (my car has them built in but these are what mine look like)
https://www.amazon.com/Ampper-Blind-Mirror-Frameless-Convex/dp/B01CV4ANCC/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1518314292&sr=1-4&keywords=blind+spot+mirrors&dpID=51HE3Z5HhFL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
the more you drive the less nervous you'll feel. My first year I was a nervous wreck. After a couple years you'll be on autopilot then driving becomes a lot more fun as you learn more and how to take little shortcuts to make driving better.
I suggest whatever you're scared of doing on the road, do as much as you can. I used to be scared taking the highway so I wouldn't. Then I told myself to stop being a bitch and I took it every single day and now I prefer it over normal roads
Got my 87' Camry about 9 months ago and blind spot mirrors are hands down the best safety accessory I've ever purchased for it. I know some people aren't really too into them and you might already have some, but if you don't I highly recommend them. They're inexpensive as hell and save you from having to look over your shoulder when switching lanes, especially since newer Camry's have more blind spots than older models.
https://www.amazon.com/Ampper-Blind-Mirror-Frameless-Convex/dp/B01CV4ANCC
This is how I installed mine. You can see me taking the picture from the blind spot in the round mirror. It is less useful when it's raining and dark out, but works wonders for most situations.
https://www.amazon.ca/Ampper-Blind-Mirror-Frameless-Convex/dp/B01CV4ANCC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537892313&sr=8-3&keywords=blind+spot+mirror
I do recommend sticking it in the inside upper corner. Other positions actually blocks too much of the original mirror... you need the far side of the stock mirror to judge distance of the car next lane.
Blind spot mirror
I have one of these . Or at least something like it. Hasn’t fallen off in over a year and when cars pass me I can see them in the mirror until they’re visible out of my driver window. I.e. no blind spot.
Any car you install this on to has a blind spot mirror.
Thanks. From Amazon.
Ampper Blind Spot Mirror, 2" Round HD Glass Convex Rear View Mirror, Pack of 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CV4ANCC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apap_8EIVMSpiYklxx
I have a battery jump starter. DBPOWER 600A Peak 18000mAh Portable Car Jump Starter (up to 6.5L Gas, 5.2L Diesel Engine) Battery Booster and Phone Charger with Smart Charging Port https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D42TYFC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_yrZ-zbSZQKPYA
This is a completely common thing to happen, don't beat yourself up over it.
Buy this and put it in your car:
https://www.amazon.com/DBPOWER-18000mAh-Portable-Starter-Charging/dp/B01D42TYFC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1493924817&sr=8-3&keywords=portable+battery+jump+starter
Sheets or tapestries and clamps like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CPSJCB8/ to clip the sheets onto each side of your canopy for privacy. Make sure the clamps are big enough to fit onto your canopy legs!
Cheap water jugs with spouts http://www.target.com/p/arrowhead-brand-100-mountain-spring-water-2-5-gallon-plastic-jug/
Keep one on a folding table and bungee cord a roll of paper towels to the handle, throw a bucket on the floor and you have a sink.
Leave one on top of your car and the water gets hot enough to rinse off with if you're too lazy to make the trek to the shower trailers.
Solar/battery powered string lights or a lantern for the campsite and a headlamp for the portapotties
Plastic tent stakes
Battery powered fans https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003SXLW7Q/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ATSHJ1Q/ and a misting bottle
A jump starter that can also charge phones https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D42TYFC
You should get one of these things! I got one after I was late for a meeting at work because of car trouble, and it’s been great.
Battery Jump
They're intended to be for charging laptops.
From the Amazon Description.
>You can also use it to charge your laptop with 8-in-1 laptop adapters (included in the package).
No way to know for sure without hooking it up to a load and using a DC clamp meter to measure the amperage. Keep in mind your average run-of-the-bill AC/DC multimeter with a clamp will not measure DC amps.
My experience with these has been mixed. Some brands work great others are nowhere near the rated amperage. Also, it's hard to find them with decent alligator clips, they're usually junk and fall apart easily. I can vouch for this one, had it a couple years and used it several times, including my wife's 5.7L Nissan SUV just yesterday, works great and the clips are pretty good.
I used these. No extra switch when i turn my key the lights come on. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DYQM6EO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I used fuse taps when I wired mine: https://www.amazon.com/10-Pack-Add-circuit-Adapter/dp/B01DYQM6EO (I didn't get these specific ones--my dashcam came with some already). Find a place in the fuse box to tap into switched or always-on power, plug in the original fuse, plug in the dashcam fuse, wire your power up to the other end, run it however and that's about it. No need to cut any wires or splice into anything with T-taps.
https://github.com/fochica/fochica-wiki/wiki/Fuse-tap-guide has lots more detail.
these add a circuit work great and allow for a fuse on both the original circuit and the added one. As long as you aren’t drawing crazy amps where the original wires can’t handle it your fine. A cell phone booster should be fine
If you tap off the cigarette lighter and it is a 10A fuse or larger you will be fine as long as you aren't literally trying to use it as a cigarette lighter (the red glowing thing) as well. Buy some of the correct sized fuses for your car as spares off eBay for really cheap (or harbor freight) and keep them in your spare tire well. They can be a life saver. Never ever ever... ever... put in a larger fuse than what originally came in the fuse slot. The fuse is there to protect the wiring, not the devices.
Now, you can use a tap if you'd like and be fine if and only if you use the stock fuse and then a 5A fuse for the dash cam. Most dashcams only use 2A and they are getting more and more efficient so you should be fine. This method means you have to run it through the firewall which will suck. Plus you would likely have to cut a hole in the fuse box lid which could let water in which is bad. Do you have an auto-dimming mirror? You can splice power off of that too.
edit: By fuse tap I mean one of these: https://www.amazon.com/10-Pack-Add-circuit-Adapter/dp/B01DYQM6EO . Do not use the kind that just wedge in alongside the stock fuse. Those will stretch out the fuse prong slot.
Powering the mirror with a cig lighter.... LOL I can't believe they included that. That's really fucking stupid. LOL
Anyway, yes, you can extend the power wires for the mirror so they'll run up into the headliner, across to an a-pillar, down the a-pillar and to your fuse box. Find a fuse that turns on/off with the car and use one of these. 15A is more than enough.
Lights don't "pull 12v", they need 12v to work and then use/pull X amount of amps. I think you're confused by the difference between volts, amps, and how fuses work. Voltage is like the measure of force moving the electricity (electrons) through the wire, and amps is the measure of how much electricity is moving through the wires.
The fuse numbers are the rating that the fuse blows at, not how much that circuit uses normally. Like if your radio only uses 8A peak, then it would run through a fuse that is rated at 10A, so if it ever spikes above 10A, then the fuse blows and opens the circuit to protect from damage.
Anyway, I would pick a fuse slot that powers an accessory, like the radio fuse or the 12V accessory port(/cigarette lighter. Whatever you call it). So if the fuse were to blow, the only thing that is affected is just the lights and the accessory port.
Easiest thing to do is get a fuse tap and use it to install your lights. That way you don't have to cut any wires on your car and everything is properly protected. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/10-Pack-Add-circuit-Adapter/dp/B01DYQM6EO/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=fuse+tap&qid=1571284619&sr=8-3
It's really, really easy to add your own ambient lighting to the Focus (or any car really). Most LED strips are already 12v. They'd need an adapter from house wall power but in a car (the vast majority of them anyway) the 12V circuits are already there! If you're concerned about your own electrical knowledge they make kits too; they're pretty inexpensive and you could splice open that cigarette adapter line to wire it in directly or get something like this. Personally I'd buy my own strips, controllers, and hard wire it though (make sure you confirm controller works with your strip). Since you're in the footwell I'd also recommend weatherproof but it's not super necessary since it won't be directly exposed.
You could tap in to an accessory line/fuse to have them always on or get fancy and wire them in to the dash lighting for when the headlights are on so that they only come on at night. I just used these fuse taps the other day for a dash cam and radar detector install; make sure you have the right fuses for your install though. I had to pickup some lower amperage ones to properly protect my lower amperage gear.
Some LED strip lighting is easy to adhere or screw down depending on your preference and you can even get RGB and an IR/RF/bluetooth controller to customize.
Anyway, the whole thing should take nothing more than an hour or two and less than $100 in parts.
Floor lights: https://www.amazon.com/LEDGlow-Million-Color-Underdash-Interior/dp/B004N6YRDS/ref=pd_day0_263_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BCYSQ22HXC5N63B4ZG2H
Add a fuse circuit: https://www.amazon.com/10-Pack-Add-circuit-Adapter/dp/B01DYQM6EO/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1511740880&sr=1-5&keywords=car+wire+taps
You will also need a 5 amp car fuse. Auto zone has them for about 1$.
Use the hood release bolt as a ground point for the lights.
If you run the wires correctly it looks 100% OEM I set the LED color to match the red trim on my car and it looks so good!
Zip ties help and a coat hanger to run the wires through tough spots.
On my car with how I have the Android mirror wired up it turns on with the key on ACC or when starting the car, and the Android mirror stays powered until I turn the key to OFF.
It took a lot of probing around to find the fuses I needed to tap off of, but the Android mirror came with a cheap but usable power probe tool that works even better than a multimeter for finding fuses with and without power.
I ended up using the two fuses:
I also used "Add-a-circuit Fuse TAP Adapters" to tap off of the fuses so I did not have to cut or tap off of wires:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DYQM6EO
If you're asking for the link to the one I got, it's currently out of stock, I got the GOOLOO 500A version for $50.
The 800A version is here: https://smile.amazon.com/GOOLOO-18000mAh-SuperSafe-Starter-Portable/dp/B0748D8KT6
For $70
The 1200A version is here:
https://smile.amazon.com/GOOLOO-SuperSafe-Starter-Portable-Battery/dp/B07MJBDD5K/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=GOOLOO+500A+Peak+SuperSafe+Car+Jump+Starter&qid=1563153797&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1
For $80
I hope that helps lol
I have one of those powerbank for your smartphone that's also a jumpstarter. Like one of these. It's been a good investment I would say. Just attach it to your car battery while watching the movie.
In the future, I'd invest in something like this so you don't have to worry about getting help if your battery dies.
https://www.amazon.com/GOOLOO-18000mAh-SuperSafe-Starter-Portable/dp/B0748D8KT6/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1C9MRSFSNZO3U&keywords=jump+starter+battery+pack&qid=1569859392&sprefix=jump+starter%2Caps%2C695&sr=8-3
This little buddy has saved my ass a number of times. It also comes in clutch as a backup battery for your electronic devices. Just make sure you keep it with you.
Is there any other way without taking the battery out?
Someone told me to get this,
https://www.amazon.com/GOOLOO-18000mAh-SuperSafe-Starter-Portable/dp/B0748D8KT6/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=jump+start&qid=1575016040&sr=8-7
I carry a USB power pack that can also be used to jump a car in the trunk. I’ve used it on several occasions to help random strangers and it’s super quick and easy to hook up to their battery and get them on their way. It’s paid for itself in good karma many times over.
But in this case, the same device could possibly be useful for jumping the 12v battery of the Tesla, enough at least to get the hood open, and possibly enough to boot the computer and select Tow mode. It’s got a decent amperage rating, and it’s specifically designed for a short burst of amps to crank an engine, but it can also do at least 10amp sustained which might be enough drive the screen.
Something like one of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0748D8KT6/
Here’s a video of someone doing exactly this;
https://youtu.be/6h2y3pl4DqU
An important side-point which this is a good time to remind everyone - the frunk can be opened by applying power to those leads which can be accessed behind the little panel in the front right side of the car. So you should not store valuables in the frunk!
You just need a reasonably large automotive battery and an inverter.
Something like this, one of these, and a car battery. Use a deep cycle battery if you plan on using this regularly, and pick up a battery charger. Otherwise you can just plug it into the battery in your car, if that works.
Bring a can of starting fluid. Powerstrokes hate the cold, even with fully functional glowplugs. If(when) you end up using it, remove the air filter cover and only give the engine a little sniff so the glowplugs don't cause a backfire.
Try to park near an outlet and plug in the block heater every night. Consider getting a magnetic pan heater and putting it on the bottom of your fuel tank.