Best automotive replacement sway bars & parts according to redditors

ACDelco 46G20513A Advantage Front Suspension Stabilizer Bar Link Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006N96DLW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_li58AbFDQ0GBG

Yes but they make some that are quick disconnect so that you can hook them back up once you hit the road.

>These are the end links that I ended up buying: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KGDNXR2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

LoL, OK so you ARE buying them from a dude in a van ;) The AC delco bushings I'm sure are just fine.

So these sways have zero branding at all on them - they could be complete crap or could be unbranded OEM. I would check that they are torqued properly; I had a brand new sway start making noise because I missed it on my torque rounds and it loosened up. If it's even slightly loose it will make a horrible noise. Just grab the torque wrench, doublecheck spec's and check torque on all four sway studs and all four bushing strap bolts.

For the future, branded, high quality sways are no more expensive than these. I just put top of the line Moog's into my front end for the grand total of 32 bucks prime shipped to me. They're great quality, substantially thicker than OEM, with zerks so I can regrease them easier, and even had wrench flats built in so I didn't have to screw around with stripping out the stem with a torx.

If checking torque doesn't fix it, I'd start looking elsewhere for the noise; while poking your head underneath have someone rock it up and down and look and listen; could be a control arm bushing failing, a blown shock or anything else (hint, shocks are supposed to be dry. If it's wet, it's leaking).

Heres everything I bought for my lift, the swaybar end links are of course optional, so are the bumpstops: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019HXJFBA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K5FP2SE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B2AF0MU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B2AFKP2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GH1OCO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C57XJY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here's a list of the parts you'll need /u/RebornSpartan . I did pretty much the same thing last year.

Also, if you replace one wheel bearing I'd suggest knocking out the other one while you're at it. That also gives you the chance to check the axle shaft u-joints while you're at it.

2x Timken HA597449 Axle Bearing and Hub Assembly - $150

You will also need a 36mm socket specific for the nut on the axle shaft. I bought this one from Amazon when I ordered the wheel bearings: TEKTON 4936 1/2-Inch Drive by 36 mm Deep Impact Socket, 6-Point - $14.

Something to be aware of (paranoia at its finest) is the possibility that your hub bolts may be rusted all to hell and need replaced. Or in case you want to replace them "just because". You can get them from Quadratec @ $4/ea and you will need a total of 3 for each side. Crown Automotive 34201535 Front Knuckle To Hub Bolt

Here are the Moog part #s for the ZJ tie rod upgrade:
1x Moog DS1312 ZJ Tie Rod End - $54
1x Moog ES3096L XJ/ZJ Tie Rod End - $26

You can generally re-use the adjusting sleeve that's already on the components you're going to replace, but in case you want/need a new adjusting sleeve it's only an additional $15.
1x Moog ES2079S XJ/ZJ Tie Rod End Adjusting Sleeve - $15

While you're down there mucking about with the steering, you should check the drag link and the track bar as well.

If you need/want to replace the drag link assembly, here are the part #s you'll need. Again, you can generally get away with re-using the adjusting sleeve so that will save you $15 if you do.
1x Moog DS1238 Tie Rod End aka Drag Link - $60
1x Moog ES3096L XJ/ZJ Tie Rod End - $26
1x Moog ES2079S XJ/ZJ Tie Rod End Adjusting Sleeve - $15

For the track bar:
1x Moog DS1235 XJ Track Bar - $59

Now, on to the sway bar links. If the links themselves are still good, all you need to do is replace the bushings.
2x Moog K3150 Sway Bar Link Repair Kit - $17

If your links are crap (usually the top bolt is rusted all to hell, or people don't want to screw with pressing out the old bushings) you can get two of these kits to just do a straight replacement.
2x Moog K3174 Stabilizer Bar Link Kit - $38

And don't forget to replace the mounting bushings for the sway bar while you're at it, also.
1x Moog K3171 Sway Bar Bushing Kit - $10

I have a 2015 LE as well! Got into modding last year. I started with cosmetic modifications and slowly into performance on a budget.

Cosmetic:
- Rubber Front Lip and Sideskirts $12 each side
- Window Visors $42
- Headlight Eyelids $20
- Rear Window Spoiler : $40
- Trunk Spoiler Rubber$15

Electrical:
- LED Foglights $32
- LED Strip Sequential Turn Signals $18
- LED Turn signal switchbacks, requires a resistor and tapping into turn signal wires
- LED Interior Bulbs $6


Performance:
- TRD Exhaust $400 used. Made my car a joy to drive! Other great cheaper options are Borla $350, and J2 $250. I got the TRD for the balanced deep tones and didnt want to be pulled over for 3rd party exhaust ( I live in Cali).
Super budget ebay exhaust is available too! $85 : Sounds decent, join the 11th gen corolla group on facebook to see and hear videos
- Spectre Short Ram Intake $150: Great sound from engine and increased torque
- Megan Racing Rearsway bar $110: If you like hugging corners while turning this does wonders for reducing bodyroll. I have way more confidence on tight turns!

And that's where the sway bar bushings are. If you look underneath from the back you will see a bar running between the tires. There are two points where it is mounted to the frame with rubber bushings. Those get hard and cause the knocking.

https://www.amazon.com/Red-Hound-Auto-Compatible-Stabilizer/dp/B079RZ3P75

Unless you hear bad things about Mevotech I'd say go for it. However, I have some good news, it looks like there's other aftermarket options if that one doesn't pan out:

https://www.amazon.com/Moog-K750150-Stabilizer-Bar-Link/dp/B003YMJJR6

https://www.amazon.com/BECKARNLEY-101-7903-Stabilizer-Link-Kit/dp/B01DLEIB66

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-45G20728-Professional-Suspension-Stabilizer/dp/B0049C7Q3O

https://www.amazon.com/ProSteer-Sway-Bar-Link-SL822/dp/B00U1L8KSW

I can't speak to how good any of those options are, but Moog is usually a pretty safe bet. That last one looks like it's the same Mevotech option.

https://www.amazon.com/URO-Parts-30760238KIT-Sway-Link/dp/compatibility-chart/B01AWXRAQG

I just put on the Teraflex 1.5" leveling kit. It'd be perfect for what you're wanting.

https://www.amazon.com/Teraflex-1155200-FRONT-LEVELING-SWAYBAR/dp/B007CISU6Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1550174024&sr=8-2&keywords=teraflex+leveling+kit+jeep+jk

If you didn't put on new wheels with the 33s you may consider that as well to increase the backspacing. wheel spacers would also work

A lot of people tow similar setups with similar type vehicles. I have 2 suggestions: 1) Try to make sure there is not too much weight behind the axle. 2) consider installing a sway bar. They are super cheap and fairly easy to install. (https://www.amazon.com/Pro-83660-Value-Friction-Control/dp/B0016KJ5MC/ - this one is marketed under a lot of brands, but under "Pro-Series," it is cheapest"

Consider just adding a sway bar with no WDH.

https://smile.amazon.com/CURT-45820-Sway-Ball-Mount/dp/B003AT6EYO/

https://smile.amazon.com/Pro-83660-Value-Friction-Control/dp/B0016KJ5MC/

I've looked at the same kit and it doesn't come with that piece as far as I can tell. Link

I tow a 30 footer with slide. Weight comes out around 8700 lbs. I installed one of these from Reese, and it made a huge difference in windy driving conditions.

I just installed the new sway bar end links today. The noise went away for a few hours and then I started to drive on a bumpy road on my way to work and the sound came back. These are the end links that I ended up buying: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KGDNXR2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The bushings are also brand new. I replaced them on the same day. Everything looks fine, no cracks or deterioration.

These are the bushings that I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007QBWBZS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

When I got them they were blue and not black

I've never experienced a sway problem (RV bought new last August) and it's only through more reading that I added one for this trip. I didn't notice any difference on this trip with sway control versus previous without but maybe it's one of those where you don't need it until you do? I have always had a WDH fitted.

I went with a cheap one off Amazon

I have this

http://www.amazon.com/Rough-Country-Front-Disconnects-3-5-6-5-inch/dp/B00C0XC56C

Cheaper then most have no issues with it.

Might as well get some disconnects instead of the stock ones. Not a huge price difference

edit

I didnt realize Metal Cloak made disco's. Go with /u/toaster_knight 's suggestion. Those look to be much higher quality

If the the idea of a lift is already on your radar (and within the budget) I would go ahead and do it while you have everything taken apart.

You have a couple options depending on how much lift you're going for. In my opinion, ADF (www.andersondesign-fab.com) lifts are really really great for the price. The customer service is also second to none. When I installed mine, I emailed them with a question and Patrick (the owner) responded in LESS THAN A MINUTE haha. FYI, They just moved to a new shop so they're a bit backed up rn.

Or you could go with lift springs. Both RalliTek and Primitive Racing sell them separately or in their fully assembled kits. RalliTek also makes their own springs as another option. Also, note that the Standard Height versions of Kings will actually provide a small amount of lift, too.

You could also combine ADF lift spacers AND lift springs. With our cars, I've heard not to go over 2" total due to extra stress on the CV joints. Many people have gotten away with it though.

One thing to keep in mind is that the higher up you go, the more need you'll have for trailing-arm spacers. They keep your back wheels centered in the wheel well. ADF sells them in their kits. You may also need to ditch your rear sway bar altogether or get longer rear end links (Kartboy STI endlinks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0067QSFQW/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_XoMRDbK0GP82A are great for lifted Foresters!).

It know it may seem a little daunting, but in the long run, I'm really glad I lifted mine. Good luck!

Is it a stock sway bar? If so it is 23mm and buy there here (unless you want performance ones):
https://www.amazon.com/Porsche-83-86-Bushing-bushings-stablizer/dp/B00ACY9P14

Did you buy Forester specific swaybars (I assume rear we're talking about)? If you did that's the issue. You will need the WRX/STI rear Whiteline swaybar and WRX/STI mounts. Something like these: Whiteline BSR36Z Heavy Duty Sway Bar https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007RN9UQ8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share. Whiteline KBR21-22 Rear Heavy... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0070I9UF6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share. For the mounts, use PB blaster or something of the like to loosen the bolts to the frame, let it soak 1-2 days. Trust me on that, bolt snapped for me and it was a serious chore to get it out. You could use the stock WRX or STI swaybar bracket mounts but the Forester ones are too tall when the car is lowered and the Forester specific swaybar doesn't fit with that change from stock height geometry.

EDIT: Found one of the source write ups about this very issue. I went with the beefier Whiteline mounts: https://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f70/whiteline-bracket-kit-hitting-control-arm-tab-162857/

Interesting, the price has gone up to what ExtremeTerrain was selling it for:

Teraflex 1155200 JK 2IN FRONT 1IN... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007CISU6Y?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I've got a 2005 revup 6mt sedan. It's had the engine replaced through the dealership because of oil consumption (previous owner). 40k on the new motor 90k on the chassis. Good car, burns around a quart of oil after 4k miles of hard driving. My new drive for work is up and down a windy highway. I really think a short shifter and a set of sway bars would help make the drive more fun. I have all-season Michelin primacy mx4's 235s 18 rays. Any other recommendations would be awesome.

Some sway bars I'm considering http://www.amazon.com/Hotchkis-22413-Sport-Sway-Nissan/dp/B004SRYKWU?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_sfl_title_1&smid=A26YKA1AMO7VO

Recently ordered http://www.amazon.com/ModifyStreet%C2%AE-Ball-Shaped-Weighted-Shift/dp/B015GDJONE?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

and http://autodynamic.com/performance/short-shifters/revo-technica-short-shifter-assembly-nissan-350z-infiniti-g35-2-4-dr.html

Reading on the revo technica it's a good cheap shifter with a highly reduced throw range. The shift knob is cheap but weighted, I might have to return it a times until i find a nice one (reviews say they come scratched)

I have had mine for 14 years, put over 200k miles on it.. It's a great car.. I also have a 5spd... I found these mods pretty solid choices.
Intake
http://www.knfilters.com/cold_air_intake/lexus_is300.aspx
cams
http://www.briancrower.com/makes/toyota/2jzge.shtml BC0311(264)
Header
http://www.dezod.com/dezod-motorsports/dezod-motorsports-green-headers/dzm002/i-2119510.aspx
Sways
https://www.amazon.com/Hotchkis-22410-Sport-Lexus-IS300/dp/B0050UY8VW
Exhaust
Too many choices
HKS Dragger II is a great sounding
Apexi N1 Also strong
http://www.dezod.com/apexi-integration/apexi-exhaust-n1-series/162kt05/i-35731.aspx
http://www.dezod.com/hks/hks-dragger-ii-exhaust/3302ex077/i-38012.aspx
A little more quite if your going headers
http://www.dezod.com/tanabe/tanabe-medalian-exhaust-medalion-touring/t70038/i-129483.aspx

Suspension
Koni Yellows paired with Eibach Pro Kit Springs
Or coilovers if your feeling fancy...

Clutch
OEM Mark 4 Supra NA Clutch kit + OEM MK4 Supra Flywheel (requires some machining) http://my.is/forums/f88/n-supra-flywheel-clutch-swap-w-part-numbers-pics-409335/
It's a nice choice lighter but not so light makes driving a pain. Iv left mine stock... No real slippage issues

http://shopfigs.com/v3/CD3V2

helps clutch feel more direct.

heat shield
http://shopfigs.com/v3/header-hs300V2

Figs makes a bunch of great things, caliper adapters kits.. I recommend this.. I have replaced my stock calipers maybe 2 times since ive owned the car..


Its a fun car, its not really that fast these days, but feels nimble easy to drive fun to toss around and a great deal cost wise.

Turbos... Well thats a longer post.. thats really covered on plenty of forums.. my.is is a good one to start with..

There ya go