Best automotive replacement sway bars according to redditors

>These are the end links that I ended up buying: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KGDNXR2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

LoL, OK so you ARE buying them from a dude in a van ;) The AC delco bushings I'm sure are just fine.

So these sways have zero branding at all on them - they could be complete crap or could be unbranded OEM. I would check that they are torqued properly; I had a brand new sway start making noise because I missed it on my torque rounds and it loosened up. If it's even slightly loose it will make a horrible noise. Just grab the torque wrench, doublecheck spec's and check torque on all four sway studs and all four bushing strap bolts.

For the future, branded, high quality sways are no more expensive than these. I just put top of the line Moog's into my front end for the grand total of 32 bucks prime shipped to me. They're great quality, substantially thicker than OEM, with zerks so I can regrease them easier, and even had wrench flats built in so I didn't have to screw around with stripping out the stem with a torx.

If checking torque doesn't fix it, I'd start looking elsewhere for the noise; while poking your head underneath have someone rock it up and down and look and listen; could be a control arm bushing failing, a blown shock or anything else (hint, shocks are supposed to be dry. If it's wet, it's leaking).

I have a 2015 LE as well! Got into modding last year. I started with cosmetic modifications and slowly into performance on a budget.

Cosmetic:
- Rubber Front Lip and Sideskirts $12 each side
- Window Visors $42
- Headlight Eyelids $20
- Rear Window Spoiler : $40
- Trunk Spoiler Rubber$15

Electrical:
- LED Foglights $32
- LED Strip Sequential Turn Signals $18
- LED Turn signal switchbacks, requires a resistor and tapping into turn signal wires
- LED Interior Bulbs $6


Performance:
- TRD Exhaust $400 used. Made my car a joy to drive! Other great cheaper options are Borla $350, and J2 $250. I got the TRD for the balanced deep tones and didnt want to be pulled over for 3rd party exhaust ( I live in Cali).
Super budget ebay exhaust is available too! $85 : Sounds decent, join the 11th gen corolla group on facebook to see and hear videos
- Spectre Short Ram Intake $150: Great sound from engine and increased torque
- Megan Racing Rearsway bar $110: If you like hugging corners while turning this does wonders for reducing bodyroll. I have way more confidence on tight turns!

A lot of people tow similar setups with similar type vehicles. I have 2 suggestions: 1) Try to make sure there is not too much weight behind the axle. 2) consider installing a sway bar. They are super cheap and fairly easy to install. (https://www.amazon.com/Pro-83660-Value-Friction-Control/dp/B0016KJ5MC/ - this one is marketed under a lot of brands, but under "Pro-Series," it is cheapest"

Consider just adding a sway bar with no WDH.

https://smile.amazon.com/CURT-45820-Sway-Ball-Mount/dp/B003AT6EYO/

https://smile.amazon.com/Pro-83660-Value-Friction-Control/dp/B0016KJ5MC/

I've got a 2005 revup 6mt sedan. It's had the engine replaced through the dealership because of oil consumption (previous owner). 40k on the new motor 90k on the chassis. Good car, burns around a quart of oil after 4k miles of hard driving. My new drive for work is up and down a windy highway. I really think a short shifter and a set of sway bars would help make the drive more fun. I have all-season Michelin primacy mx4's 235s 18 rays. Any other recommendations would be awesome.

Some sway bars I'm considering http://www.amazon.com/Hotchkis-22413-Sport-Sway-Nissan/dp/B004SRYKWU?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_sfl_title_1&smid=A26YKA1AMO7VO

Recently ordered http://www.amazon.com/ModifyStreet%C2%AE-Ball-Shaped-Weighted-Shift/dp/B015GDJONE?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

and http://autodynamic.com/performance/short-shifters/revo-technica-short-shifter-assembly-nissan-350z-infiniti-g35-2-4-dr.html

Reading on the revo technica it's a good cheap shifter with a highly reduced throw range. The shift knob is cheap but weighted, I might have to return it a times until i find a nice one (reviews say they come scratched)

I just installed the new sway bar end links today. The noise went away for a few hours and then I started to drive on a bumpy road on my way to work and the sound came back. These are the end links that I ended up buying: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KGDNXR2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The bushings are also brand new. I replaced them on the same day. Everything looks fine, no cracks or deterioration.

These are the bushings that I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007QBWBZS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

When I got them they were blue and not black

I have this

http://www.amazon.com/Rough-Country-Front-Disconnects-3-5-6-5-inch/dp/B00C0XC56C

Cheaper then most have no issues with it.

Might as well get some disconnects instead of the stock ones. Not a huge price difference

edit

I didnt realize Metal Cloak made disco's. Go with /u/toaster_knight 's suggestion. Those look to be much higher quality

I've looked at the same kit and it doesn't come with that piece as far as I can tell. Link

Did you buy Forester specific swaybars (I assume rear we're talking about)? If you did that's the issue. You will need the WRX/STI rear Whiteline swaybar and WRX/STI mounts. Something like these: Whiteline BSR36Z Heavy Duty Sway Bar https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007RN9UQ8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share. Whiteline KBR21-22 Rear Heavy... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0070I9UF6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share. For the mounts, use PB blaster or something of the like to loosen the bolts to the frame, let it soak 1-2 days. Trust me on that, bolt snapped for me and it was a serious chore to get it out. You could use the stock WRX or STI swaybar bracket mounts but the Forester ones are too tall when the car is lowered and the Forester specific swaybar doesn't fit with that change from stock height geometry.

EDIT: Found one of the source write ups about this very issue. I went with the beefier Whiteline mounts: https://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f70/whiteline-bracket-kit-hitting-control-arm-tab-162857/

I have had mine for 14 years, put over 200k miles on it.. It's a great car.. I also have a 5spd... I found these mods pretty solid choices.
Intake
http://www.knfilters.com/cold_air_intake/lexus_is300.aspx
cams
http://www.briancrower.com/makes/toyota/2jzge.shtml BC0311(264)
Header
http://www.dezod.com/dezod-motorsports/dezod-motorsports-green-headers/dzm002/i-2119510.aspx
Sways
https://www.amazon.com/Hotchkis-22410-Sport-Lexus-IS300/dp/B0050UY8VW
Exhaust
Too many choices
HKS Dragger II is a great sounding
Apexi N1 Also strong
http://www.dezod.com/apexi-integration/apexi-exhaust-n1-series/162kt05/i-35731.aspx
http://www.dezod.com/hks/hks-dragger-ii-exhaust/3302ex077/i-38012.aspx
A little more quite if your going headers
http://www.dezod.com/tanabe/tanabe-medalian-exhaust-medalion-touring/t70038/i-129483.aspx

Suspension
Koni Yellows paired with Eibach Pro Kit Springs
Or coilovers if your feeling fancy...

Clutch
OEM Mark 4 Supra NA Clutch kit + OEM MK4 Supra Flywheel (requires some machining) http://my.is/forums/f88/n-supra-flywheel-clutch-swap-w-part-numbers-pics-409335/
It's a nice choice lighter but not so light makes driving a pain. Iv left mine stock... No real slippage issues

http://shopfigs.com/v3/CD3V2

helps clutch feel more direct.

heat shield
http://shopfigs.com/v3/header-hs300V2

Figs makes a bunch of great things, caliper adapters kits.. I recommend this.. I have replaced my stock calipers maybe 2 times since ive owned the car..


Its a fun car, its not really that fast these days, but feels nimble easy to drive fun to toss around and a great deal cost wise.

Turbos... Well thats a longer post.. thats really covered on plenty of forums.. my.is is a good one to start with..

For some visual evidence of what I'm talking about, here's my car on 195/55r15 tires vs 170/70r13 tires (the 195s are .8" larger diameter)

https://i.imgur.com/T9vrgHn.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Qhyzvrv.jpg

despite the car actually being lower to the ground with the smaller tires, the extra space in the wheel wells can give the impression of the car sitting higher.

As far as basic mods:

https://www.amazon.com/ST-Suspension-51120-Anti-Sway-Accord/dp/B000AUMOJ0

That'll help you get rid of most of the factory understeer.

For suspension, the standard choice is Koni sport shocks with Ground Control coilover sleeves. They'll run you $900 + assembly.

If you aren't able/willing to play around with spring compressors, I would save up a bit more and get a pre-assembled coilover like the BC Racing type BR coilover for $1000. They'll save you the cost of having a shop assemble the shocks for you, meaning you'll likely spend less in total.

You'll likely want 16 or 17" wheels for a better selection of tires.

205/55r16 and 215/45r17 are good tire sizes in terms of having a ton of great tires to choose from. They're the same size or 10mm wider than stock tires on a 97 V6 accord, and approximately the same diameter, so you shouldn't run into trouble with scrubbing or steering range.

Best inexpensive quality wheel with the correct lug pattern for a 97 Accord that I would find is the Enkei J10. Might have better luck searching for other people selling used 16" or 17" wheels for accords, buying new wheels and tires is always pretty pricey.

The other option is to look into converting your Accord to 5x114.3 lugs, because then you can get lightweight, performance-focused wheels that nobody really seems to make for your Accord's 4x114.3 lugs.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/5-lug-conversion-96-cd7-2852976/

Yes they do look like one piece. THis the one you are looking at?:
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-Solutions-927-100-Replacement-Sway/dp/B0026M9DZS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506814722&sr=8-1&keywords=2002+buick+century+sway+bar

For clarification this is the crack I think Sophia dad was speaking about: https://i.imgur.com/RBi3YIW.jpg?1
Crack between the yellow arrows

here she is so far


List of possible upgrades

a-arm

subframe connector

panhard bar and control arms

springs

I've never experienced a sway problem (RV bought new last August) and it's only through more reading that I added one for this trip. I didn't notice any difference on this trip with sway control versus previous without but maybe it's one of those where you don't need it until you do? I have always had a WDH fitted.

I went with a cheap one off Amazon

I tow a 30 footer with slide. Weight comes out around 8700 lbs. I installed one of these from Reese, and it made a huge difference in windy driving conditions.

For sway control, absolutely. These things aren't like pa's tandem axle car hauler. They are built to be light weight and light on the tongue, 10% of the camper weight, so they blow around everywhere. If you want to go the cheap route just buy the sway control and have the metal tab welded (picture 2) welded to an extended ball mount so it looks something like this but gives you more clearance. It's worth the 100 bucks in safety.

The other option is buy The whole set and install it yourself. It's not difficult and there's youtube videos all over the place. If you do buy a WDH bigger is not better. The leverage involved can do a lot of damage to the tow vehicle or trailer so don't just buy a 12000lb set and hook it to your 3000lb tow light.

These numbers are straight out of my ass because I don't know your cab, axle, 4wd, but here goes. Generic v8 full-size truck payload 1500lb. GCVW 7000. Trailer Max- 7500ish

Single axle trailer up to 4500lb- sway control, no WDH
Tandem axle trailer up to 7500- sway control and WDH

ahh thats what Ive heard too. I was also looking at skyjacker (turns out there overpriced chinese junk just like the rest of their products), terraflex and the ORO swayLOC.


http://www.offroadonly.com/catalog.130318/product_info.php?cPath=56&products_id=290


$780!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Your looking to spend just as much with this builder kit:
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/SWAY.html


I seriously miscalculated this project and that is just not going to work. Was also reading about how the first time out with the $$$ ORO unit a guy could not reengage the lever due to mud a debris. Just sounds too complicated even if I wanted to spend 3/4s of a winch on it! This things must be geared towards desert racers where these are an absolute necessity.

I think what I am going to do is buy an ADDCO sway bar $170:


http://www.amazon.com/Addco-516-Sway-Bar-Kit/dp/B000CF9EIM

Note I normally support 4x4 shops on parts like this, but man everyone else has it listed for $40 more!

• end links $26
  http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Synergy-Jeep-TJ-LJ-XJ-Sway-Bar-Relocation-Bracket-Weld-On-p-21291.html
  
  
  and just spring for some JKS links.