Best automotive spark plugs & accessories according to redditors

How to make trigger buttons smooth as butter:

The problem is that there is no grease on the plastic-on-plastic movement of the triggers. I did that for both my controllers (maybe I should have made a video...):

1. Remove the 2 face plates and batteries
   
2. Remove the 6 screws of the controller and open it up
   
3. Get yourself non conducting grease (like this one)
   
4. Apply one small dot of grease at all these areas http://imgur.com/bv5wEWN (basically everywhere plastic slides on plastic)
   
5. Action the trigger many times to distribute the grease
   
6. Re-assemble the controller, and enjoy stick-free triggers.
   
   I really wish Ouya would have done that first-hand. It is a very easy thing to fix that would not have cost them much... Hope that helps!
   
   Edit: fixed link

Spark plugs diy: https://youtu.be/-SelzJ5YUTA

Cabin and Air filter diy: https://youtu.be/saf1K5_ne18

Cabin filter you need ($8) :
EPAuto CPJ6X (KD45-61-J6X) Replacement for Mazda Premium Cabin Air Filter includes Activated Carbon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWV2W5M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_D5qhDbW5XVH0V

Air filter you need ($15):
ECOGARD XA6280 Premium Engine Air Filter Fits Mazda 3, CX-5, 6, 3 Sport https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I8IP28G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_M6qhDbKWRM26A

Spark plugs you need ($40):
NGK 94124 ILKAR7L11 Laser Iridium Spark Plug, Pack of 4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DMFGYRC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_F7qhDbM7RD9W0

Stage 1+, and yeah I’m running NGK Iridiums, these to be exact. It’s just cylinder 3, and when I replaced it for the second time I noted the plug was loose whereas the other 3 were not. All were torqued to spec the first time, so idk.

Now it probably needs a new plug again, but oddly the symptoms are intermittent— it seems to run fine 99% of the time, but sometimes when getting into boost, it’ll start to stutter, and even less often it’ll throw a CEL. Then the CEL goes away a week or two later. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

If you find the space bar rattles too much, buy a tube of this and use a tooth pick to put a bit around the stabilizers. Just did on my wife’s keyboard that looks like a similar keyboard sold by monoprice and it’s almost completely silent.

You've got pretty much everything you need for a solderless build on that list


If you want to save ~$50, you could get your stabilizers and switches elsewhere. Outside of Zeal's offerings, Kailh's BOX Black switches are probably the smoothest unmodded linears on the market, and you can get 70 for $21 from NovelKeys.


They also sell Cherry screw-in stabilizers for $2~3 each, if you don't mind them not being gold-plated. I've never tried Zeal's stabilizers, but imho, clipping, lubing, and bandaid-modding Cherry ones will probably make them feel just as good to your fingers as any more expensive kind would. The only thing you'd probably need to get is dielectric grease, which you'd only need a few drops of per stabilizer.

To quote one of my recent comments about silencing stabilizers:

---
---

I've spent tons of time researching and modding stabilizers and here's the method I use to make them as silent as possible:

---

Let's Build: KBD75 + Zealios 65g (YouTube)
[stabilizer modding starts at 12:11]

---

What you'll need:

• Genuine Cherry stabilizers
  
  • This is the most important component of a silent build. Don't waste your time with the cheap Chinese replicas.
    
  • Zeal stabilizers are fairly quiet out of the box but not everyone wants to spend that kind of money
    
    
• Finish Line Extreme Fluoro 100% DuPont Teflon Grease
  
  
  • Use this for plastic-on-plastic contact areas (i.e.: stabilizer housing inner walls)
    
    
• Permatex Dielectric Tune-Up Grease
  
  • Use this for metal-on-platic contact areas (i.e.: stabilizer wire tips and long side of bends)
    
  • Some use this for plastic-on-plastic but I hate how it gums and slows everything down; I use this grease mainly to fill up any gaps between the wire and plastic parts of the stabilizer - the primary source of stabilizer rattle.
    
    
• Fabric/cloth bandages
  
  • This serves two purposes:
    
    • Fills the gap between the stabilizer housing and the PCB to minimize wobble and thus, rattle (not a problem with screw-in stabs)
      
    • Cushions the bottoming out of stabilizer inserts. The inserts extend beyond the stabilizer housings when pushed all the way down and strike the surface of the PCB, leading to a loud "clack" and additional vibrations/movement that might cause the metal bits to rattle.
      
      
  • We use fabric instead of the water-resistant stuff (or tape) so that it absorbs and holds the dielectric grease.
    
    ---
    ---
    
    This is what they should sound like:
    
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mMIC1ZQ8Grw

While I’m waiting on my Lumina to come in, I figure I’d do a cheaper, experimental tactile build.

Keyboard: Duck Sidewinder Gray

• Duck Sidewinder
  
  Stabs: GMK Screw in Stabalizers w/ Walker Mod (no adhesive sticker)
  
  
• GMK Screw in Stabalizers
  
  
• Permatex Dielectric Grease
  
  
• Orings
  
  Switches: Holy Razers
  
  
• Greetech SMD RGB bottoms
  
  
• Outemu ICE V2 tops
  
  
• Halo True stems
  
  
• Krytox 205 GPL 0
  
  Butyl Rubber
  
  
• Non Adhesive for the case
  
  
• Adhesive for the spacebar
  
  Keycaps:
  
  
• Blue Grey XDA Keycap Set
  
  I needed something to scratch my itch while I wait for my Lumina, so I decided to pick up the Duck Sidewinder and screw around with some mods. I have a bunch of halo’s and Outemu Ice V2’s lying around, so I decided to pick up some Greetech switches to mess around with. After lubing them up with Krytox 205, I had a good set of holy razers, and I’m pretty happy with them.
  
  I’ve used butyl rubber to deaden the sound in my keyboards before, but this is the first time using it on the spacebar. I actually like the added weight in the spacebar, and I had no idea if I would or not.
  
  As far as the caps go… Truth be told, I’m not much of a fan, but I was hoping the dark blue would bring out the blue tones in the case, and I think it did pretty well. I’ll keep them on for bit and see if they grow on me. It's just hard to find a good set of caps that are colemak compatible. Currently I'm waiting on these.
  
  I’m pretty excited to have this as my daily driver for awhile :)

Ok, that's just a run-of-the-mill terminal end. Looks like the (old) battery was leaking acidic fumes at the terminal. My suggestion would be: Clean it thouroughly using a small wire brush or sandpaper, put some terminal grease (whatever it is called in the states, this for example) on generously and reconnect it. Turn on the headlights, high beams and some other stuff in your car without the engine and feel whether the connector gets hot. If not, you're golden. If it does, you can replace this with any terminal adapter that is long enough to reach your ground cable, no need to buy a Chevrolet branded one.

Attention: The white stuff on the terminal is probably lead oxide. Highly toxic, do not breathe in the dust, wash your hands after cleaning or preferably wear gloves.

For countryman E6s, we ALWAYS make sure to use the response caps to keep makeup out of the diaphragm. Also, the cables run about $60, as you know. Making sure people are careful with them is our biggest problem here, we burn through cables like candy when we do kids shows.

For especially sweaty actors we like to use dielectric silicone (https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2) to seal the connection between the headset and the cable. Keeps everything nice and waterproof but still conducting.

I have owned a set of 12 E6s for about 8 years now, they very rarely fail on me. But replacement cables are a MUST!

Most grease like the one you have is NOT dielectric - ie it still conducts electricity. So if your PCB comes into contact with the grease while it is touching anything you will have a short. Here's what you need - https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=permatex+dielectric+grease&qid=1567174237&s=automotive&sr=1-1

You can also pick up cheap dielectric grease at any auto store for cheap.

If this doesn't work if you put it on your post-cat O2 sensor, then it's the sensor that's bad. If it does work, chop out the cat because the cunt's fucked and probably clogged enough to get some decent gains. If you have to pass inspection, replace it with a cheap glasspack from Autozone or something, one of the short ones that will fit inside the heat shield, then drive some gravel roads to cover the shiny-ness.

They're NGK (6510) LTR7IX-11

Here they are on Amazon

If you end up with a lesser expensive connector, you can also squeeze a glob of dielectric grease into both sides before connecting. It goes a long way to keeping out moisture and keeping the contacts from developing corrosion or any kind of resistive film.
i.e., https://www.amazon.ca/Permatex-81150-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease-33-Ounce/dp/B000AL2RI2/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1543000581&sr=1-1&keywords=dielectric+grease

Any dielectric grease or white grease should do the trick. Plus you can find it in almost any home improvement or auto parts store.

Sure thing! I used this case, this plate, this foam, switches are a combination of this and this, I used genuine Cherry stabilizers from here, lubed the switches with a mix from Mehkee as well, lubed my stabilizers with this, and used this keycap set.

That should just about cover it. :)

If anybody is looking for a cheap and effective cube lubricant you can buy in local stores, dielectric grease is working fantastic for me. I always have some around for working on cars anyway. It's essentially pure silicone (PDMS), safe to use on plastic and rubber etc. A little bit goes a long way.

> Splice them into your trailer wiring

That's what I did. I went up about 4" from the 7-pin plug, cut the necessary wires, used uninsulated butt connectors with a closed-barrel crimper and adhesive-lined heat shrink to splice in a 6-pin Deutsch DT connector pigtail, then built my own wiring harness that plugs into the Deutsch connector and ran it up to the headache rack.

Went with the 6-pin Deutsch connector since I only needed 5 of the 7 wires (LT, RT, Tail, Backup, and Ground) and 5-pin Deutsch connectors aren't available. Deutsch DT connectors are frequently used in the automotive aftermarket (probably more so than Delphi Weatherpack connectors). I know Rigid Industries uses them for their LED lights, and Smith Race Wire uses them for parts of their custom wiring harnesses.

Also, since you can only close-barrel crimp one end of the uninsulated butt connectors, I chose to close-barrel crimp the side that had only one wire (since closed-barrel crimping is more secure, and the one wire was looser in the connector) and used Channel Lock 909 Pliers to crimp the end with two wires.

Once you made your harness, make sure you slip it into some split wiring loom. Using a loom insertion tool makes quick work of that. Wrap the wiring loom with non-adhesive dry vinyl tape for a factory-finished look and to avoid a gooey, sticky mess in case you need to unwrap the wiring harness in the future.

Finally, a good wire stripper will save your hands a lot of fatigue compared to using a standard wire stripper that you have to always pull the wire through.

I believe that board uses costar stabs, which are notorious for having really loud spacebar rattle (actually any kind of modifier key that is longer than 2u). You can try taking off the spacebar to confirm if it is.


If it is costar, then try taking the wire out and using dielectric grease to dampen the rattle. Just dip the ends of the wire into the grease.

You can get rid of some of the pinging with some dielectric grease like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MVkeAbRDF5CCV

Would recommend getting a GK61 from banggood, either with a plastic or aluminium case: https://www.banggood.com/Geek-Customized-GK61-Hot-Swappable-60-RGB-Keyboard-Customized-Kit-PCB-Mounting-Plate-Case-p-1389481.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN (plastic ver.)

You could probably use any MX stem keycaps, but if you don't have any laying at home, I'd personally buy these: https://www.banggood.com/61-Key-ANSI-Layout-OEM-Profile-PBT-Thick-Keycaps-for-GH60-60-Mechanical-Keyboard-p-1163283.html?rmmds=detail-top-buytogether-auto&cur_warehouse=UK

Then a switch of your choice; for your budget, I'd recommend these switches:

For tactile, MX Browns

For linear, MX Reds, MX Blacks

For clicky: MX Blues, Kailh Box Navy, Jade

Now, to get the best bang for your buck and a great typing experience from your keyboard, I'd recommend lubing your switches and clipping and lubing your stabs.

If you want to know how to lube your switches and mod your stabilizers, I'd recommend watching these videos from a guy named TaehaTypes, an experienced custom keyboard builder: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cD5Zj-ZgMLA https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qSgPKPoFo2k

If you would want to lube your switches and mod your stabs, you'd probably want to buy lube, dielectric grease and teflon grease.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL2RI2/ref=twister_B06ZXR55WD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

There are many lube options, but I recommend this one for a beginner like you: https://switchmod.net/products/tribosys-3204, or if you believe you are able to apply lube consistently and are using linear switches, you could buy this one: https://switchmod.net/products/krytox-gpl-205-grade-0

I think that's about all, if you have any more questions, feel free to ask me!

I'm no expert, but I think some people use dielectric grease, like this

This is widely recommended and available in almost every auto parts store

Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 3 oz. Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-dtxzbXZT665N

This makes a really good super thick lube for stabs, you'll just wanna brush the wire, stem, the part the stem rubs against and the part the wire clips into. Clip the stabilizers while you're at it too and only use authentic cherry pcb mount stabs. Don't use dielectric grease for anything other than stabs, super thick

That nasty gunk IS the dissolving loom tape.

I'm sure google will tell you how to get through it, but after you do use some spiral or woven loom wrap. Will make doing this the next time way easier!

Baking soda + water are great for clean dirty car battery terminals.

Disconnect the negative battery cable, then disconnect the positive cable.

Make a slightly watery mixture of baking soda and water (filtered or distilled is recommend), and carefully pour the mixture onto the battery terminals; Be careful not to let the water touch both terminals.

Using an old toothbrush or wire brush, scrub the corrosion off the terminals, then rinse with filtered or distilled water.

With your terminals nice and clean, repeat the process on your battery cable connectors (it might be easier to soak the connectors in a baking soda solution instead of trying to pour it).

apply either battery terminal protector, Dielectric Grease, or a thin layer of [protroleum jelly] (http://www.amazon.com/Vaseline-100%25-Petroleum-Jelly-Ounce/dp/B007E62538/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1374477009&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=petroleum+jelly) to the terminals of the battery.

Reconnect your positive terminal, then reconnect your negative terminal and you're all set!

Sorry for the potato quality, but this was my very first build and it was an enjoyable experience! Although lubing the switches was painful without a special tool and I had to use a small flat head screw driver, I would rate the experience as a 5/7 would build again.

The build:

Case: TOFU acrylic frosted 60% case

Plate: CNC'D ALUMINUM PLATE - blue color

PCB: 1UP RGB 60% (Hot Swap Edition)

Stabilizers: PCB stabilizers black color - 2U*4 6.25U*1 (lubed with Permatex 81150 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease)

Switches: *68 - gateron black (lubed with Krytox 205)

Keycaps: Black 108 Key Cherry Profile PBT Double Shot Side-lit

I am very pleased with how it turned out and already thinking about what to build next lol

Yeah! I’m running Manic stage 2 now so the sparks i got were the NGK1422

NGK (1422) ILKR8E6 Spark Plug - Pack of 4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BPUAYTG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_x9pHAbMAJ9VBD

Thanks for answering my questions. I guess I need to order 20 more Zilent switches since that's the minimum order.

> Krytox 106

I'm only able to find a bottle on Amazon for $235 bucks. Can you link somewhere that has a smaller amount?

> dielectric grease

Is this the correct product?

I'm using this set here. https://www.amazon.com/NGK-HE76-Premium-Spark-Plug/dp/B000IY8ODS

I originally did a standard set from the auto parts store but was like nope not helping at all. I want to say its the spark plugs but I've gapped them correctly and changed them twice.

In the Nathan Kim stabilizer lube video he uses Permatex 22058 Dielectric grease for Metal on Plastic scenario. I read somewhere on Reddit someone said that he since switched to using Kyrtox 205 in the the whole stabilizer tho.

I found some Permatex 22058 on Amazon UK. Not sure if that's expensive, I think it's roughly how much I paid in US. I do put some Krytox or Tribosys on the plastic on plastic parts tho.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/

This is good for stabs (not switches) and is usually at places like AutoZone if you want to get it locally and not order online. https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2

This stuff does work but makes dries out rather easily.
I'd push you down the way of this.
Dielectric Grease|Permatex 22058: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2


This is what you should be using as it's meant for electronic purposes. Not all multi-purpose greases are going to work well with switches and it really wouldn't be worth the risk.

These coils and these plugs are the ones I used after reading a bunch on the VWVortex and Mark6GTI messageboards. You may also want to get your intake cleaned (before you change the plugs) if you haven't already.

Changing spark plugs is very easy. All you need is 4 spark plugs, a torque wrench and a 12 point socket. It should take you 10 mins to change all 4. If you go to a shop they will probably charge you >$100.

Here is a tutorial.

I lubed my stabs with this, super cheap and it pretty much made my stabs silent.

EDIT: Ripster tested it in his guide so it must be good

It is a non conductive grease that prevent rust, oxidation, dirt, and corrosion. "Permatex Dielectric Tune-Up Grease protects electrical connections and wiring from salt, dirt and corrosion. " this is the one I use https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=dielectric+grease&qid=1572880722&sprefix=diele&sr=8-3 Scotty Kilmer also uses it https://youtu.be/zhl3bLzgq9A . I use it it for the headlights, turn signal, side markers, fog lights, I also use it on the dome map lights, and I put it on 1 fuse blade, and I put some on the battery terminal. I do recommend getting disposable gloves. I wear XL winter gloves. But the disposable is smaller. Read the reviews first. People might might say get one size higher. So next time I will get XXL gloves.

6 New NGK Iridium IX Spark Plugs LFR5AIX-11 # 4469 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00330AMYS?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

These are the ones I bought

My battery and terminals just looked like that and cleaned it up last weekend.

Take the battery off and use hot water to clean most of the battery up.

Used hot water on my terminals as well.

After that i used a hot water/baking soda mix to neutralize the acid.

Bought a few things off amazon as well:

https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W147C-Terminal-Cleaning/dp/B004BTV82U/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1520547692&sr=8-3&keywords=battery+terminal+cleaner

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1520547711&sr=1-4&keywords=dielectric+grease

The dielectric grease should help it from getting moisture and corrosion on it again.

I would put some dielectric grease on all the connectors, it's fast and cheap. It's possible you just have bad connection from grim on them or corrosion over time and the new bulbs touching the contacts on a bit different part. That bad connection could have also made them fail prematurely too.

Can usually find at automotive places for a few bucks. Not sure why so expensive on amazon.ca....

https://www.amazon.ca/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2

Not that aerosol can. Get that little .33 oz tube with the handy dispensing nozzle.


If you want to splurge get the lifetimex10 tube.
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2

Previous must have r/MechanicalKeyboard toolkit items:

ITEM #3 - clean your dirty keys with denture tabs:
http://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/wtvy2/the_mechanical_keyboard_modder_kit_item_3_denture/

ITEM #2: Contact Cleaner for that inevitable liquid spill:
http://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/wra4r/the_mechanical_keyboard_modder_toolkit_part_two/

ITEM #1: A key puller for cleaning and putting some spiffy new keys on your new keyboard:
http://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/wr9uy/the_mechanical_keyboard_modder_toolkit_part_one/

sure...here you go. finish line comes in the syringe, which makes it easy to apply some to the stabilizer housing so you can brush it. taeha types does a good video using this grease combo.


finish line - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002L5UL92/
permatex - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL8VD2/

Yup, just did mine no problem a couple weeks ago no check engine light.

I bought the vibrant header from redline360 online. The vibrant header comes with an o2 sensor relocation kit.

My corksport exhaust had a bung ready to go for the o2 sensor (just past the second cat. I actually put a vibrant ultra quiet resonator where that second cat used to be).

I bought this anti fouler off amazon. Then I followed these instructions.

End result: BAM no check engine light, it's a little bit louder than with just the corksport exhaust. But it is very worth it.

Edit: To clairfy all the anti fouler does is take the 2nd o2 sensor an inch further away from the exhaust. Thus it reads less pollutants than #1 o2 sensor and tricks the car into thinking the cat is working.

Also disclaimer, this is all for an '04 2.3L

All the oem v6 plugs are champion.

https://www.amazon.com/Dodge-Charger-Promaster-Wrangler-Spark/dp/B01C7TYJW6

Update: After much research and unfruitful trips to Lowes and Walmart, I finally found the right grease. Pure silicone grease but under the name dielectric grease, and at a great price ($5 for 3oz.)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AL8VD2/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just put these in my 2015 XT. Same number/code printed on the ceramic part that was on the factory plugs that came out of the car.

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DMFGK2G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm not sure where you landed with this but it really sounds like wires and plugs to me. Low RPM stumble, loss of power, and if you keep the RPMs way up it's a little better? That's likely wires and plugs.

Get four of these plugs and a set of these wires and swap them in. Then report back here.

Here's the tool you'll need and here's the plugs I used for my 2008 R56. It's super easy to do! Hopefully that will fix your issue.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002L5UL92/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For plastic on plastic ^

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AL8VD2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For plastic on metal ^

The Permatex isn't a bike lube, but it's fantastic.

I made the same mistake as you in the past. The oil works ok for the plastic-plastic contacts of the stabilizers though. But for lubing the bar, a thicker dialetric grease is ideal

The superlube dialetric grease you linked is probably fine. This is the exact one I use though, as recommended by Nathan Kim https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AL8VD2

Nothing wrong quality wise with Denso, but the NGK laser platinums are OEM. I would not bother with anything else. Aren't plugs 60k mi for 2.0s?

The gap is .032 , about $10 on amazon for the correct ones.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007WR66QQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1452208552&sr=8-1&pi=SL75_QL70&keywords=NGK+spark+plugs+gti#

Replace coils with the Audi r8 ones if you're having issues, other wise just leave it.

[Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 3 oz. Tube] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL8VD2/)

Just use https://www.amazon.fr/Permatex-81150-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL2RI2/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1518366744&sr=8-8&keywords=permatex

I use permatex on my stabs, works like a charm

Extreme Fluoro used to be recommended, but people found out that it's shit and dries after a few weeks

I can't find Super Lube easily in my area, so I am wondering if this one might be used instead:

https://www.amazon.fr/Tri-Flow-TF23004-Clear-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000C15MUU/ref=sr_1_1?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1518365758&sr=8-1&keywords=synthetic+grease

edit: Maybe this one would be good too? https://www.amazon.fr/Finish-Line-Extreme-Fluoro-Huile/dp/B002L5UL92/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518366940&sr=8-1&keywords=finish+line+extreme

edit 2: Or this one? https://www.amazon.fr/Permatex-81150-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL2RI2/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1518366744&sr=8-8&keywords=permatex

Argh. I am lost in sea of information about mech keyboards (aka, /r/mechanicalkeyboards Wiki ;)

Spark Plug Wires https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001MU28TI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_D3PkDbMFAD49A

Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 3 oz. Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ld8kDbQ54DWYW

If your downstream o2 sensor is matching the data your upstream sensor is reading, the computer thinks that the catalyst is not doing its job. You need to remove the downstream sensor from the raw exhaust stream. You can do this by purchasing a set of Spark plug non foulers. You then drill one out so your o2 sensor will fit inside. Then you screw the second non fouler onto the end of the first one, and reinstall into the exhaust pipe. Should look similar to this. Pull your negative battery cable before starting, and the CEL should not come back.

https://www.amazon.com/Piece-Wire-Loom-Cable-Insertion/dp/B00OKXP0C6/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1507173036&sr=8-1&keywords=wire+loom+tool&linkCode=sl1&tag=caraud03-20&linkId=4cdbaa3912d6599660130d35860cfe93


Get this unless you don't mind doing this for like 30 minutes with a hurt thumb for awhile.

I don't know what you get because there are a few options, IMO I like to take my time manually installing the split loom, I don't need to buy that.

I'd just get it on amazon, http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/

Would something like this work?

Also what about dielectric silicone grease?

Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease Tube was a suggestion I got from a YouTuber and it works really well so far. A bit expensive but you don't use a lot so lasts forever.

Canada: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000AL8VD2/?coliid=I1N71VWMGGSOXK&colid=J58MB1DVXYQQ&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

US: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AL8VD2?pf_rd_p=2d1ab404-3b11-4c97-b3db-48081e145e35&pf_rd_r=EVNQKENT60XP5CXEPJJ7

​

Also for plastic on plastic lube (the stems of the stabilizers, do not use inside of switches) this: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B002L5UL92/?coliid=I3VPHHQD2B8350&colid=J58MB1DVXYQQ&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

It's not hard but time consuming. The more time you spend perfecting it the better it will be. Just take your time and it will be fine.

It's a 2 stroke so you have to mix 2 cycle oil in with normal gas. I run mine at 25:1 but when it was new i ran it at 16:1(more oil)

Off the bat I would replace the stock chain with a #41 so it doesn't derail as much.

Replace the stock spark plug with a NGK B6HS

I modified mine by taking out the magnet the first day I got it (and yes it does void the warranty).

I ordered this lube to modify it as well as some other peripherals, but it isn't that expensive (considering the cost of the trackball).

I definitely would recommend the modification and lubrication of the device, it made the trackball feel like it costs, rather than feel like a $50 toy.

Edit: I didn't just use the dri film above as lubricant. I also used some permatex grease I had lying around to make it seem like a heavier scroll wheel, rather than a light plastic one.

I wish people knew what that was for.
Noalox is for aluminum. That is what the "al" stands for. No - aluminum - oxidation.
It will do very little for your copper mod.
Please use some dielectric grease. It is nonconductive and will provide extremely great protection and thread things nicely.
Any auto parts store will have it, or you can just get a small tube online, like so:
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81150-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL2RI2/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1409019211&sr=1-2&keywords=dielectric+grease

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/

Try local at auto parts stores. The other favorite is Super Lube 21030 but people on discord have been grumbling about it drying out, saying use 92003 or Krytox 205. I personally don't have much experience with lubing stabilizers.

would this lube be fine for lubing cherry stabs? or finish line?

For connectors that are constantly exposed to moisture, this product can help. Especially headlight connectors, dissipates heat real well.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=cm_sw_r_em_api_c_knoYAbDWZFBE3

Ok in your case go buy this.
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2

Put a dab of it in each spark plug wire side. Or where the coil boot goes onto the spark plug if you have coil on plug instead of a coil and spark plug wires.

While each plug is exposed, pull it and check the spark plug gap. I don't know your vehicle but you can guickly Google what the gap should be. Adjust to that if it's way larger. If it's smaller like ". 035 like how most are sent from the factory. Don't worry and reinstall them.

This is all step one before you move on to vacuum leaks.

These are what I’ve used last time and will use next time. Can’t argue with the price for a direct replacement OEM part

(English isn't my first language so i'm sorry if there are some errors)
I just bough a poker 3 and the spacebar is squeaky as hell, so I was about to buy this, but I've read that it will crumble in a month or so and my only other option is this one, but I don't know if it can be used on stabilizers,so which one should i buy?

These:

https://smile.amazon.com/ARES-70005-Professional-Ratcheting-Weather-Proof/dp/B017JX8W2I/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1538277875&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=ratcheting+crimping+tool&dpPl=1&dpID=315gd2LzbfL&ref=plSrch

And these:

https://smile.amazon.com/Connectors-Sopoby-Assorted-Insulated-Terminals/dp/B01F07UMNW/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1538278026&sr=8-2-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=shrink+bullet+connector&psc=1

And this:


https://smile.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538278142&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dielectric+grease&dpPl=1&dpID=51w6o8oSdeL&ref=plSrch

P0420 is for emissions failure and usually a catalytic converter problem. The first thing I would try is to replace the rear O2 sensor. These can be had for about $50 on Amazon or RockAuto. Reset the ECU by removing the negative lead on the battery and holding the brake pedal down for 30 seconds. Reattach the negative lead and drive it for a few days to see if it comes back. If it doesnt, your golden. If it does it could be the Cat. If you are strapped for cash and cant really afford a new cat at the moment, there is a trick you can do by using two sparkplug non-foulers to pull the O2 sensor out of direct airflow in the exhaust.

Here is a LINK to the non-foulers i used when my Subaru gave me this code. There is a review on the link that shows what someone did to make this work.

If all else fails you will most likely need a new Cat.

Amazon

I use dielectric grease it was recommended in my owners manual of my car. I wipe it on the rubber molding that is either on the door or the door frame. Apply a fine coat with a rag, removing any excess.

I used Permatex's Dielectric Grease (Amazon link). That's way more than I'll need (smaller amount here).

Here's /u/ripster55 's [guide on Keyboard Lubes] (http://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/1dzvs9/keyboard_lube_science/) if you have any questions. I used this when I first lubed mine.

Questions about liner material and lube...

For liner material, what acoustic differences am I going to find between: neoprene, sorborthane, and rather generic looking "foam" rolls? They're all pretty much the same thickness, about 2-3 mm.

For lube, I'm looking at: Permatex dielectric grease, krytox 205 grade 2, trybosis 3204 and trybosis 3203. What would be good for stabs, what would be good for linears, and what would be good for tactiles? And if possible, is there anything that's a good "all-arounder"? Aka, something that could easily work for both stabs and switches.

I believe I found the OEM plugs here. How big is the difference between these and other plugs, like maybe these? Especially since at this time, there are only three available.

And I don't think I'm anywhere near knowledgeable to do that. My family lacks a lot of important tools.

This is just extra info as I don't know where the arcing is coming from: I've read in an old forum post that if the anode cap isn't secured for whatever reason there can be arcing. When I reattached the last cap I used a bead of this grease underneath for a good seal:

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1538606002&sr=8-1&keywords=dielectric+tune-up+grease&dpID=51w6o8oSdeL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

There has been a lot of good advice. One I can offer is, disconnect the battery, open the fuse panel, and spray QD electronic cleaner in there. https://www.amazon.com/CRC-5103-Quick-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000BXOGNI

If the carpet got soaked and the foot wells are wet, you may want to think about pulling the seats and the carpet out and letting it dry, as anyplace that water pools may lead to rust at worst, or a moldy smell eventually.

Any exposed electrical connection can be given a quick covering of di-electric grease after they are cleaned: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1497446596&sr=1-1&keywords=di-electric+grease

Any metal on metal contact areas that got wet, such as hinges, seat sliders, etc hit with some WD-40 to displace water and prevent rust.

Pull the horn fuse for now to stop it from sounding all the time. The headliner removal is a bitch, since you need to remove all the pillar trim, which may mean removing seat belt shoulder bolts, which normally requires a big torx socket bit. If it is a hot dry day, unplug the battery and leave your car fully open (all doors, hatch) all day. It will really help drying it out.

Would this product work?

https://www.amazon.de/dp/B000AL2RI2/

The small rubber of dielectric grease, €6 and change

This stuff. Apply a thin coating to all areas of friction. Enjoy in good health.

I've seen ripster link to this lube in the past. Might want to check that out.

I got a tube of this from Amazon (it's a ton). Not sure if it's the best out there but its dielectric and the price is right.
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-42009-Spark-Plug-Non-Fouler/dp/B000CO91FY

I'm running this with my catless downpipe. I have a tune but have them leaving the o2 sensors on so i can pass emissions. I have no issues with check engine lights or anything and have been running it like this for about a year now. For the visual inspections i think you should be good since the location of the cat is high up and behind a cross bar it is not an easy one to see from under the vehicle.

One thing to be aware of is the smell, it will smell like exhaust in the cabin every once and awhile. Nothing that is dangerous just something to be aware of.

For stabs (stab housing/stem) your best bet is krytox 205, you can get a half oz tube for 20 bucks on amazon.. That is going to yield better results, trust me..

205 is also amazing on linears.. I wouldnt use anything less or any other brand, especially a 'custom mix' that has oil mixed in...oil doesnt last as long.. you want grease because it doesnt have the fluidity of oil, lasts much longer..

https://www.amazon.com/Chemours-Krytox-Grease-Pure-PFPE/dp/B00MWLDALQ/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=krytox+205&qid=1555994639&s=gateway&sr=8-3

For tactiles/clicky 202-204 depending on spring weight

https://www.amazon.com/Krytox-Grease-Pure-PFPE-PTFE/dp/B00MWLDCKA/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=krytox+204&qid=1555994880&s=gateway&sr=8-3

For the stab bar inserts

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-6PK-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=permatex&qid=1555994695&s=gateway&sr=8-9&th=1

Dielectric Grease

dielectric grease

> Dielectric grease

Thanks, would this product be fine?

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1519918530&sr=1-4&keywords=Dielectric+grease

I ended up ordering this. It's probably one of those "cheap Chinese made coils" you warned about but I didn't have much luck finding a bunch of options since it's an older car.

Hopefully it will work good enough! Also bought these wires for good measure.

Does it look like this? http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-42002-Spark-Plug-Non-Fouler/dp/B0002JMS6I/ref=pd_sim_263_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=31F4GM8S3WL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1M5AWSS776KA66FJ8FDD

> http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-42002-Spark-Plug-Non-Fouler/dp/B0002JMS6I/ref=pd_sim_263_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=31F4GM8S3WL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1M5AWSS776KA66FJ8FDD

I think that's right, yes.

When I got my old outback I went out and played in the mud and whenever I went through a big puddle the engine would miss a beat every once and a while for a minute or two. So I went through the entire engine and put dielectric grease in all the electrical plugs and that solved my problem. Maybe something to try

Yeah I've got some stab lube I've been using that seems alright. It's a small grey tube I got from Amazon. Might be called permatex?

Edit: I think it's this stuff

Here is the OEM upstream sensor you need: http://www.amazon.com/Denso-234-4099-Oxygen-Sensor/dp/B000C5WCN6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1380741249&sr=8-1&keywords=2344099

You don't necessarily have to buy it off Amazon but they have the best price for it. Denso is Hondas OEM manufacturer. Make sure it is the Denso 234-4099 model number. It is what it came with. Also, for spark plugs and wires, use NGK. NGK ZFR5F-11. You should be able to go to an auto parts store and get those. It shouldn't cost more than $3 a piece and you need 4. Here are the spark plug wires: http://www.amazon.com/NGK-HE76-Premium-Spark-Plug/dp/B000IY8ODS/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1380741594&sr=1-1-fkmr1&ymm=1998%3Ahonda%3Acivic&keywords=1998+honda+civic+dx+spark+plug+wires

As for tools, you'll need a 7/8" offset o2 sensor socket and a breaker bar because it will be on tight! For the spark plugs, you'll need a 5/8 spark plug socket with a rubber piece or a magnet inside to grip the spark plug. the wires won't require tools but you'll need a bit of dielectric grease to prevent the elements from getting to the connections.

I recommend you use this spark plug socket. It's treated me really well and is very durable: http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-80546-8-Inch-6-Inch-Swivel/dp/B0014ZVSVK/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1380741751&sr=1-1&keywords=spark+plug+tool Also, it won't hurt if you go and buy a 3/8" 6" extension for your 3/8" ratchet.

Sorry this comment is so long haha. I could go on for hours about these stupid switches.

I mean, I have some SKBM White Alps(these are slit-less, like your damped whites) that still feel wonderful(a far cry from SKCM Whites, but still), and were very clean. I'd imagine a cleaning and a lube will help them greatly. End of life SKCM is still better than any current Matias or the most recent SKBM Alps that Matias are based off of.

If you used Tribosys 3204 on them, that could've contributed to the worse feeling as well. I personally haven't lubed any of my Alps switches besides a bit of dielectric grease to eliminate spring ping, and that's a 100% worthwhile thing to do to every switch ever imo. Alps switches much prefer dry lubes, and wet lubes like Tribosys or any other MX suitable lube makes them feel goofy.

Denture tabs can be found at any store, and they're made for dentures, but their oxidization works wonders on a whole lot of different things, just no metal. Think of them as OxiClean(the laundry kind) bit for plastics.

Basically, just take only the top housing and slider(don't forget to take out the dampening rubber tabs) and drop them in the denture tab solution, blowing the dust out first with canned air or a DataVac. Let them sit in there for a while, maybe not 12 hours for only a couple testers, but still a decent amount of time. Once they're done, just squeeze a tiny(barely coat the spring) bit of dielectric grease on each end of the spring and put em back together. If you're going to dry lube them, I wouldn't be able to give advice, as I haven't dry lubed, but I'm sure you can find a tutorial somewhere. They should be silky smooth after that.

As far as what you'll like in the Alps spectrum, it is very difficult to base it off of MX switches, as none have really done a good job at recreating Alps' feels. If you like tactility, I think Alps are the way to go, but for linears, MX are your better option. The designs of each switch are inherently tactile or linear respectively, so neither is a flat out better switch. Alps tactility(though I've heard the oranges feel a whole lot different, and I want some so bad!) is what you'll get from the white damped switches, as long as you can get them smooth, it's rounded and... elegant?(goofy word to use, but it makes sense) If you find buckling springs too loud, you won't enjoy Alps clicky switches. They're loud, but it's such a good sound. Honestly, if your favorite switch is Topre, you may like the cream and white damped more than most, as long as your examples are good. These are the closest to rubber dome I've personally felt in a switch, but they a still are noticeably mechanical.

yeah I can't imagine the dielectric grease I used for my stabs flowing out of them, it's very thick. Here's the one I use.

Agreed.

OP:
The original terminals on the HO are cheap shit. I had to literally hammer mine on and use dialectic grease to get a good connection.

Tighten them as best you can, then use a socket of suitable size the get equal pressure when lightly tapping down until they have no wiggle left. Don't smash them on as you may break something. And use dialectic grease.

$6.99 on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=dialectic+grease&qid=1554338141&s=gateway&sr=8-2

http://www.amazon.com/NGK-B6HS-Spark-Plug-Pack/dp/B0000BXHSP

The type is NGK B6HS. Taken straight from the moped army page. I betcha the'll have an equivalent at the auto parts store if you don't want to order from amazon.

For the stems, I use Krytox 1514. You can get a 3ml vial at mehkee for not much. (That's enough to lube all the switches on a full size board, but it's the smallest amount you'll find.)

For the wires (where the metal wires meet the plastic stabilizer) I use delectric grease that I got from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AL8VD2/

As for how to do it, there are videos on youtube that show you, but basically you use the thinner Krytox on the black plastic where the stem rubs against the housing. (Wherever there's friction). The thicker grease goes where the metal meets the plastic and keeps it from rattling around. Make sure you use dielectric grease because it's non-conductive. You don't want to short out anything on your PCB.

These https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BPUAYTG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1517970055&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ngk+1422&dpPl=1&dpID=51DwxIvL0qL&ref=plSrch

I actually didn't have that problem with mine :/ My only problem was the stabs wobbling like crazy, but i'r pretty sure some nice lube will fix that. I got this from amazon. Probably wayyy too much for my needs but at least i know i will never run out haha

I have some impressions after using the keyboard for a day:

• The tackiness of the dycem totally affects the travel and the sound (but the sound is pretty quiet relative to the thock). Since it's sticky it takes a tiny bit of extra force to press each key.
  
• I'm still not sure if I like the extra force required on each key. It's not the original topre force curve any more, if you want to be a purist about it. It honestly feels fine for now. It kinda just feels like the tops of the sliders are sticky. It's not the best but I think I could get used to it. I'm too lazy to try some other material...
  
• There's a bit of a "warm-up time" with the keyboard in the morning because the Dycem had hours to get stuck to the housing and sliders.
  
• There is very little wobble in the keys now, probably because the dycem is a non-slip material.
  
• I used cheap dielectric grease to lube my stabilizers. I just put a little bit on a toothpick and put that toothpick in where the metal and the plastic met. It makes an enormous difference in the sound of the board. I'll probably get some thinner lube for the rest of the keyboard at some time in the future.
  
• If anybody is going to try to silence their Topre keyboard with their own rings (not hyperspheres), one of the most important things to look for is consistency in thickness of the material. A lot of cheaper foam providers have pretty poor tolerances.
  
• I missed OEM/cherry profile so much. I've been typing on DSA/SA keycaps for the past couple of years, and this profile is so much easier for me to type on.

More than 50k miles on current ones. I'm guessing they're gunked up. I bought [these] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007WR66QQ/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1as) replacement.

This turned out more expensive than I expected because of the tools. Can somebody confirm that I'm buying the right stuff for the job? Am I forgetting anything?
Doesn't have to be Amazon, it's just convenient. 1994 Miata.

• Permatex 81150 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, .33 oz Tube
  
• TEKTON 24325 3/8-Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench, 120-960-Inch/Pound
  
• Permatex 81343 Anti-Seize Lubricant, 1 oz. Tube
  
• NGK (9160) ZE21 Premium Spark Plug Wire Set
  
• GearWrench 80546 5/8-Inch x 6-Inch Swivel Spark Plug Socket
  
• NGK (6953) BKR5E-11 V-Power Spark Plug, Pack of 1

Thanks for taking your time and writing down some quick tips! I didn't really realize about the sidebar. I'll have a browse through it again!

I think these tips will be super helpful. For my keyboard stabilizers would [this] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000AL2RI2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A3W0W1W3AIWFOT&psc=1) lube do? The one you linked wasn't available in the UK.

I've not done lots of soldering before so I'll definitely practice before actually trying it on for the keyboard. I've got some hardware for another project I was working on that needs some soldering done but haven't got the time yet to start that.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AL8VD2

About $6.88.

Diaelectric paste can help a little. Heatsink compound doesn't like to move around.

Check the coolant temperature sensor. This Youtube video will lead you in the right direction in swapping it out, and they are fairly cheap. Basically theres 3 wires coming from it - A ground, a wire that controls the gauge, and a wire that tell the ECU when to turn on the fan.

This is what I would do to avoid doing the same job twice: Buy the sensor. If you don't need it you can always return it. When you get to the point of removing the old sensor, check the connector for corrosion. At this point if the connector looks corroded, it's probably the plug and that would either need replaced, see here. I would try to clean it real good with a good electronic cleaner with an old toothbrush, and add some Dielectric grease to it to keep it from corroding. Plug it back in and see if that helps. If you're having the same issues after that, then I would replace the sensor and go from there. If that doesnt do it, then its something with the wired connection between the sensor and the ECU, or the ECU itself.

maybe some dielectric grease to compensate! https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2

Dielectric Grease for $7 is probably your best bet.