Best automotive tie rod ends & parts according to redditors
We found 53 Reddit comments discussing the best automotive tie rod ends & parts. We ranked the 16 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 53 Reddit comments discussing the best automotive tie rod ends & parts. We ranked the 16 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Your can also replace the tie rod with a beefier ZJ tie rod for a bit more money. It was a direct bolt in on my 99 XJ.
I believe you need a DS1312 rod, an ES3096L end, and an ES2079S link to do the replacement for about $95.
Start of a long line of new parts for the 2000 XJ:
Finally got the ball joints out yesterday around 1pm.
Had to go get an impact gun to even touch the axle nut. Then the damn 13mm 12 point bolts that hold the hub in. Some how I did not strip a single one but have no faith in putting them back in, so now waiting for new bolts to be delivered. Every single cotter pin on the ball joints were so rusted and pushed into the castle nut that I couldn't get them out, so go get new impact sockets (and another trip for swivel sockets for the upper) and unleash all hell to shear the cotter pins off.
Finally got to pushing the ball joints out and the OTC set receiving cup is a touch to big for the lower ball joint, so off to Harbor Freight to get an adapter set.
Anyways, half a rant but happy to hopefully have a Jeep that wont wobble down the road.
https://www.amazon.com/Cal-Van-Tools-946-Profile-Inner/dp/B0066PI154/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1520566534&sr=8-3&keywords=inner+tie+rod+tool
Thank me later. Its simple, cheap and works on every size/design that I've come across so far. And dont worry about stripping/rounding edges because this thing bites hard when tightened down. It also takes almost no room in your box unlike the other designs of inner tie rod tools.
I never use a fork. It fucks up the boots. If you're going to re-use the BJ then you need to replace the boots too.
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6295-Front-End-Service/dp/B0002SRH7O/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1519668512&sr=8-5&keywords=otc+ball+joint+press+kit
I have this kit. Just put the castle nut on upside down to protect the threads and to prevent the thing from flying apart when it pops. If I'm replacing the ball joint, I use a big hammer instead as the others have pointed out.
Both the draglink and trackbar are the same on the XJ & ZJ, don't spend your $$$ unless they need replacing. Get the tie rod assembly (2 parts) and you're good to go.
Moog ES3096 tie rod end (short) - $29/shipped
Moog DS1312 tie rod end (long) - $50/shipped
The XJ and ZJ both use the same adjusting sleeve, so unless you need it or are OCD about getting a new one, just re-use the old one. It's doubtful there's anything wrong with the one on your XJ right now.
You might be able to get the parts cheaper at your local parts store with their house brand, but I'd recommend spending the extra $ for Moog.
Just did mine over the weekend! Amazing upgrade for so little money and effort. This really should have been OEM on the TJ. Hardest part of the job was pulling out the cotter pin on the wheel side!
For anyone that wants to do this upgrade:
Moog DS1312 Tie Rod End
Moog ES3096L Tie Rod End
Moog ES2079S Tie Rod End Adjusting Sleeve
Get yourself some rustoleum (I went with flat black enamel) and put a few coats on it. While installing, know that the little end is reverse threaded.
Did you try using one of these guys? Pops them right out. http://www.amazon.com/OTC-6295-Front-End-Service/dp/B0002SRH7O
definitely makes sense to either upgrade to a ZJ tie rod or some other combination of HD components rather than rebuild stock with new parts when the price is probably going to be pretty close. I put the Crown HD steering kit on mine last year during a full refresh http://www.amazon.com/Crown-Automotive-HDSTRGCR1-Heavy-Steering/dp/B008VPUOSO/ref=sr_1_1 (basically a ZJ tie rod with beefier TREs and a new drag link). I'm pretty happy with the quality of it for the price, but definitely want to swap out the provided TRE boots for some poly ones. There's also a Rugged Ridge setup which looks much beefier than stock for $248, though I haven't read any experiences beyond this one apart from the Amazon reviews: http://www.amazon.com/Rugged-Ridge-18050-82-Heavy-Duty-Conversion/dp/B0013REXY8/ref=sr_1_3
sorry links are in .ca because that's where I ordered them, but you'll have the right part number.
sleeve : https://www.amazon.ca/Moog-ES2079S-Steering-Center-Link/dp/B000C57VBY
tie rod end (long) : https://www.amazon.ca/Moog-DS1312-Steering-Center-Link/dp/B000C5400E
tie rod end (small) : https://www.amazon.ca/Moog-ES3096L-Tie-Rod-End/dp/B000C59W7U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465312612&sr=8-1&keywords=ES3096
here's the thickness difference between both to give you an idea: http://www.stu-offroad.com/steering/zjtie/tie-1.jpg
Third this, I got mine on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000C5400E/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1 go to that link and scroll down to frequently bought together and it's everything you need
Buy 2 packs of these dust boots that it shows commonly bought together. The rubber Crown ones are crap. You have to pry/pull 2 of the 4 crown ones off with pliers, but the other two come off easy.
Make sure you torque everything to the proper spec. I had death wobble right after I installed everything because I didn't torque the pitman arm TRE to the right spect. After I torqued it down its been super solid.
Not knowing your year, 4wd or 2wd, I guessed for a 2000 4wd cherokee. Labor is between $70-$110/hr at most places. It's $85/hr at a place I'm very uh familiar with.
ball joints $23.64 x 4
https://www.amazon.com/Moog-K3134T-Ball-Joint/dp/B000C542NY
Tie rod ends $25.99 x 2
https://www.amazon.com/Moog-ES3096L-Tie-Rod-End/dp/B000C59W7U
U-Joint $20.07
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Jeep/Cherokee/Moog/U_Joint/2000/MO371.html?apwcid=gglpla&gclid=CIjEl_zD09ACFYyLaQodfTYC3Q
OR buy the entire kit
http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/moog-packagedeal041
Actually I have not had the issue yet. But my buddy has been though 2sets. I can also tell you after driving with only two changed out, there's a huge difference. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003FXJK5A/ref=redir_mdp_mobile?ref_=pe_385040_30332190_TE_3p_dp_1 lower joint... http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003FXQ8EQ?pc_redir=1407303222&robot_redir=1 uppers I have not tryed these yet but should work according to http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1062551 they first post left hand threads but somebody corrects they guy on the second page. Hope this helps!!!! :-)
“Center link”, aha!
4 PC Kit Steering Parts F100 F250 73-79 RWD Center Link Tie Rod Ends Sleeve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079LZQYV4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_H0w0Db5G9QAVD
Might as well replace the whole kit while I’m futzing with the steering box and pitman arm.
If you are looking to replace the drag link, I would highly suggest upgrading everything down there to the V8 Grand Cherokee set. It is a solid setup, whereas the TJ's are just tubes. Here are the following amazon links to completely replace them:
Moog ES2079S Tie Rod End Adjusting Sleeve
Moog ES3096L Tie Rod End
Moog DS1312 Tie Rod End
Moog DS1310 Tie Rod End
It may seem like a bit of money at the moment, but these parts are actually cheaper than buying the TJ version of the same parts! The V8 is not in high demand, and as such the prices are lower compared to the much more popular TJ parts.
Cal-Van Tools 946 Low Profile Inner Tie Rod Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0066PI154/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5kAVAbYY7JF97
I've used a tool similar to this on a Toyota, you just need a few long extensions.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0066PI154.
Getting the the ball joint detached from the spindle is a pain. I bought this and it helped a lot:
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6295-Front-End-Service/dp/B0002SRH7O
I ended up replacing the entire LCA as another user mentioned. With an '08, you'd probably need a reciprocating saw to cut them off if you went that route.
Head to your preferred parts supplier and see if they have a tie rod/ball joint/pitman arm removal tool set you can rent for a while. You're gong to want something like this, which has an assortment of pullers and pushers for extracting a variety of steering/suspension components. One of the tools in the kit should help pop the tie rod end out of the knuckle without having to beat it, and yourself, to death.
You would need a torch to heat up the stuck insert evenly. It will cause the metal to expand, and prying on it will release it.
You could also try putting it in a vise and using a pickle fork or ball joint separator.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A0AWELW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_E.nKDbA7MWB1W
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/16-in-Ball-Joint-Separator-63420.html
> Turned out the drag link clamp was turning despite the nuts not being loose
Replace it if needed
Outer Tie Rod: (you have one each side)
https://www.amazon.com/Moog-ES3494-Tie-Rod-End/dp/B000C55X0U
Inner Tie Rod: (you have one each side)
https://www.amazon.com/Moog-ES3495-Tie-Rod-End/dp/B000C57W90/
Also check RockAuto, they're a little bit cheaper but you'll have to pay ship.
Currie Currentlync
https://www.amazon.com/Currie-Enterprises-CE-9701-Heavy-System/dp/B003EM9F5M
https://www.amazon.com/Astro-7897-Service-Tool-Adapter/dp/B00061SGZO/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ball+joint+press+astro&qid=1565030427&s=gateway&sr=8-3
Ive been running this balljoint press for 5 years now, no problems. Used it on 3500 Rams, F250s, etc... I do lubricate the threads when I use it though.
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6295-Front-End-Service/dp/B0002SRH7O/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=otc+front+end&qid=1565030542&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyUzhUWERXVTNHUE00JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDE1ODkwQ0tJWUhOSkpKV1BHJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAzNzk2NjJBN1RPUTBBMkE3MzImd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl
This front end set is worth it's weight in gold, had it 8 years, broke the two jaw puller trying to unload a torsion bar - so don't do that.
Any puller from OTC is going to be quality. In fact, anything from OTC will not dissapoint. That's why you see so much of it rebranded to blue point or matco