(Part 2) Best automotive tools & equipment according to redditors
We found 6,302 Reddit comments discussing the best automotive tools & equipment. We ranked the 2,268 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
![Tresalto Auto Trim Removal Tool Set [Non Marring and No Scratch] Auto Trim Kit for Easy Removal of Car Door Panels, Fasteners, Molding, Dashboards and Wheel Hubs, 5 PCS](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51jtkhWw09L.jpg)
For like $12 on Amazon. They're great. https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Diagnostic-Scanner-Adapter-Windows/dp/B00B3K2X4M
Even if your vehicle is not fitted with OnStar and even if you have replaced the stereo, GM still reports Latitude and Longitude data to the ECU.
Buying an ECU Scanner can report all of the data, then use an app like Torque to see what is tracked by the system.
https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Foseal-Diagnostic-Scanner-Automotive/dp/B00T5G53ZM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484759940&sr=8-3&keywords=ecu+bluetooth
I installed the parts myself over the weekend and it took me around 2.5 hrs. Grab a set of trim removal tools (around 10USD) , follow the service manuals closely and it's really not that hard.
You can get the parts today from Med Center Mazda on Ebay for $166.94USD - 15% off = $144.50USD (with coupon PICKFAST on EBay App ONLY), shipping free anywhere in the US.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mazda-Apple-CarPlay-and-Android-Auto-Retrofit-Kit-00008FZ34/192679403436?epid=11023459215&hash=item2cdc965fac:g:Qb4AAOSwz6pbtnlR:rk:1:pf:0
https://www.amazon.com/Tresalto-Auto-Trim-Removal-Tool/dp/B01L8GHB7O/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_bs_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=PSYC82VRJR5KKEY3Z4EH
https://pages.ebay.com/promo/2018/1121/70319.html?_trkparms=%26clkid%3D8318549494442163000
They're valve cores for Schrader valve stems (car/some bicycle tires)
Because security bit sets are really hard to find too. It really turns into a sort of game of cat and mouse on this sort of thing. Simply locking them in a cabinets or putting them in a locked container that's bolted to the table is probably the better way to go if you're worried about them walking off.
You can pull the valve cores out of the valve stems, or just loosen them so they leak. You aren't actually damaging anything like slashing the tire, but you are still going to ruin their day, and they will most likely be too stupid to know what the problem is. They will get a tow to a tire shop. If the tire shop realizes they are dumbasses, they should screw them from there. The tool is at every parts store or walmart. I keep one in the car.
https://www.amazon.com/Slime-20088-4-Way-Valve-Cores/dp/B0020T17J2?keywords=valve+core+tool&qid=1537325242&sr=8-8&ref=sr_1_8
That's a Tire Thumper
Sold as a way to "check tires". Really just an excuse to carry a weapon.
https://www.amazon.com/Slime-20088-4-Way-Valve-Cores/dp/B0020T17J2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=valve+stem+tool&qid=1564857167&s=gateway&sprefix=valve+stem+&sr=8-3
Valve stem removal tool is cheap.
The screwdriver in the picture does not follow the standard, it's special
If you want a large selection of bits, you need to go with with the standard. The current standard is 1/4 inch hex
Here are some examples
http://www.amazon.com/Felo-0715732348-4-Inch-Holder-Screwdriver/dp/B000E62NHS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451609355&sr=8-1&keywords=1%2F4+hex+screwdriver
http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-100-Piece-Security-Bits-Storage/dp/B000O5XDOG/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1451609394&sr=8-6&keywords=screwdriver+bit+set
Yep. These devices are made for that application.
If you store your car outdoor, I'd recommend getting a car cover similar to this (get one that fit your car), which will reduce paint damage from UV exposure. I also put the car on a tarp to reduce rust under it (I live in Canada, this is good for winter especially).
If you live in an area where it can go below freezing, leave your fuel tank completely full.
Fuel stabilizer is a good idea, but not necessary for 5 months.
If you want, you can also over inflate your tires to prevent them from flat spotting. Again, this is not necessary, more like the cherry on top.
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So, to summarize, get a battery maintainer and a tarp if outdoor. Change the oil when you come back. If you stay for like 6 months, then leave the oil in the car when you leave and change when you are about to drive it.
I have spilt way more fuel worth the new versions than I ever did with older ones. I recently threw away all my gas cans and ordered a few of these. https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-UI-50-FS-Galvanized-Gasoline-Capacity/dp/B00004Y75M/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=gas%2Bcan&qid=1567700539&s=gateway&sr=8-6&th=1&psc=1
It’s pretty much a tea kettle without all the safety crap. Haven’t spilled a drop.
A lot of places will try to charge you like $40 for this, even though it takes literally zero expertise or effort. You can get a bluetooth OBD reader for 11ish bucks and any one of a number of free apps for an Android or iPhone to connect to it and read codes, reset the light, etc.
I've created a short list of everything I have, linked items are the ones that I recommend.
Things for the road
Frame/ Mini pump
Saddle Bag
Patch Kit
Tire Boot (You can make your own for cheap, but these are still good)
Tire levers (See Multi-Tool, Levers Included)
Multi Tool (Super-Recommend)
Bike Lights
Spare Tubes (Optional for the road)
Bottles of choice
Sunglasses of choice
Gloves of choice (Important! For preventing impossible-to-heal palm scrapes)
Cycling compter
U Lock (no cable locks! they're garbage) <<I Have 3 of these, but then again, I live in Oakland.
Things for home
Floor pump
Tools (Pretty much covered by Multi-Tool, but there's things you may need like cassette tool, chain whip, etc)
Wet and Dry chain lube
Clothing (Optional, I only have the shoes and windbreaker)
Hi-Vis Jacket
Clipless shoes, I recommend SPD for easier walking
Jersey
Padded Shorts, or Bib shorts
Windbreaker
Leg Warmers
Most importantly, you need knowledge of cycling. Look up videos on youtube about safe riding on the road, traffic laws, hand signals, how to repair your bike on the road and at home, how to take a fall, and as much theory that you can)
EDIT: Do not let me trick you into thinking that a multi-tool is a replacement for the big-boy tools that are available on the market. Some of those tools are actually worth the investment. However, be that as it may, do your research first, because there's some overpriced crap out there ^^^Park ^^^Tools.
For those who aren't aware you just need a bluetooth OBDII dongle to use the Torque/Torque Pro app with any android phone or tablet. For example, lots of folks find that this cheap one works great: http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-diagnostics-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS.
Similar IOS apps require a wifi rather than bluetooth dongle, such as this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B3K2X4M/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687602&amp;pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&amp;pf_rd_t=201&amp;pf_rd_i=B00AOIM2CC&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=0R28R3007FHNY5Q2RS73
You have to buy an OBD2 for about $20 from eBay or Amazon and download the “Dr. Prius” app. Then you pay $12 on the Dr. Prius app and you have unlimited scans. The total cost is $32 but it’s yours forever. Check it out on YouTube. Here’s the link for the one I bought.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YVHGTBM/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_5CIzDbMQT06AZ
I don't carry a tire, but I do carry a tire boot. That plus two tubes and a tube patch kit should do it.
https://www.amazon.com/Slime-20088-4-Way-Valve-Cores/dp/B0020T17J2
https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-UI-50-FS-Galvanized-Gasoline-Capacity/dp/B00004Y75M/
First, some background: The percentage display on the dashboard is only loosely related to the actual state of charge of the battery, because the battery management system reserves a buffer at both the bottom and top end of the charge range to protect the longevity of the battery. When you charge up to 100%, there's 38-39 kWh in the battery rather than 40 kWh. The highest I've gotten the true SoC (state of charge) of the battery to when it showed 100% on the dashboard is 98.2%, but 95-97% has been more common. Similarly, when it says 4% on the dashboard, there's a good bit more than 4% of actual charge still in the battery. It's like how you can drive many miles after the meter reads "E" (empty) in a gas car. After 0% it'll show "--%" if it's like previous year Leafs while driving quite a few more miles, then you'll get a turtle icon and reduced power for a final mile or two to safely pull over. At that point, the car will stop moving, but there's actually some kWh of power still in the pack, because running a lithium ion battery down to real 0% permanently damages it and the car won't let you do that.
THAT SAID, I am slightly concerned about what you've said. I did a 60 mile highway drive yesterday with the A/C on full blast in 90 degree weather and >70 MPH most of the way, and still averaged 4 miles per kWh. I don't think I've ever gotten only 3.2 miles per kWh in the new Leaf. I've had many trips with more than 5 miles per kWh on 35-45 MPH roads. I am easily getting the 150 miles per charge, so if you're only getting 80-120, that sounds wrong.
This sounds silly, but what are your tire pressures at? The difference between underinflated and overinflated tires can easily be 10% or more on your miles/kWh efficiency. I have mine at 42 PSI right now. When a new car shows up at a dealership, one of the things they do to prep it for sale is to let air out of the tires, because they're shipped overinflated. If they let out too much, you'll want to pump them back up above 40 PSI (well above the 36 PSI the sticker says to inflate them to, I know) and go on another long drive to see if that improves your efficiency.
If that doesn't work, the next thing I'd do is get on Amazon and order this OBDII scanner and download the Leaf Spy Pro app on your phone. That will let you see the real State of Charge in kWh for your car whenever you want, which will help you figure out if there's a real issue here.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00004Y75M/ref=psd_mlt_bc_B00004Y75M
I've been using these cans for a few years. They are a bit pricey, but they have been durable and I don't spill any gas.
You can't predict every failure, but this will fix most major issues enough to get you to a shop or a safe place to work. Give the Jeep a once over, front to back, left to right. Drive it at highway speeds for 30 minutes and source out any shakes, squeaks, rattles, buzzes, etc.
Hope this helps.
I got mine through the same method order a Bluetooth obd2 I recommend LELink Bluetooth Low Energy BLE OBD-II OBD2 Car Diagnostic Tool for iPhone/iPod/iPad https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QJRYMFC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fOkTCbSP2W9Q1 and get leafspy pro app check SOH on battery.
Nano is a fairly unusual MTB tire in the lack of pronounced cornering knobs, but it does have a central ridge that increases speed and knobs are much less fine than popular XC racing tires, so good durability. Seems like it's optimised most for gravel/dirt fire road kind of terrain and would be a solid choice if you aren't bothered about ability to corner aggressively on twisty bikepark style trails - which in a race as long as the Tour Divide I can't imagine being much of a factor.
Imo it would be a solid choice for something like the rail trail route.
With regards to tubeless, I don't use an air compressor, just a basic track pump. There's more than one technique to install tubeless tires, the most well known one does make things hard without an air compressor, but there's a couple of alternate techniques that take a little longer that make it consistently possible with a regular pump. I use this one, main difference is you use a tire lever to seat the bead of the tire as much as possible before starting to inflate, this makes much less air leak out so it seats easier.
However, I will say that in my experience if something does go wrong on the trail it's a real mess and with a minipump it would be difficult to get them to seat whatever technique you use.
The simple solution to that is to carry a spare tube like if you were riding tubed tires, if something goes wrong you just fall back to running an inner tube rather than trying to fix the tubeless system on the trail. Also carry a boot as if you get a puncture with tubeless chances are the hole in the tire will be big enough to need booting.
How about selecting what he will eat off of the healthy list and have a contingency plan for hot food? I think I can help you out here. There are several devices to heat food even on the go. The Mini Crockpot Lunch Warmer is about $15-$20 (depending on color choice) and is great for soups, stews, (turkey?) chili, and pasta with sauce. There is also the Hot Logic Mini Oven ($30-$40 watch for sales!), which is a hot plate inside an insulated, zippered bag. You can put a frozen dinner still in the box, cooked leftovers or raw chicken or fish and it cooks/reheats slowly at a low heat. Plug either of them into the car's lighter with an AC Car Converter ($17) in the morning/beginning of his work day and it will slowly come to temperature and hold it until he's ready to eat!
They took away our microwave at work and I've had to adapt. I love them both!
I didn't have the space, money or time to put in a deep cycle house battery and all the wiring that goes along with it, so I bought two of the phone bank batteries you linked to.
All of my lighting runs off of 5v USB outlets (as well as my phone and tablet,) and I can last a week without recharging the power banks.
I also have a simple cigarette lighter inverter like this one so I can run the occasional 120v tool.
This set up lets me charge my batteries while I'm driving, in a coffee shop or at work, or from a portable 20w solar panel if I'm boondocking.
If you're getting engine lights. Buy this for $12 https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00T5G53ZM?psc=1 (or go to AutoZone or something but that's a pain in the ass) get "Torque Pro" in the play store for $5, get the engine codes. Google those codes, then go fuck your mother.
Try a park tool tire boot. Best option if you want to get a little more life out of the tire.
For nationwide roadside assistance, I've been really pleased with Coach-Net. AAA is regional and there's some reports on the RV forums that there can be issues outside of your region.
I've also had great luck with this multi-purpose inflator. I use it on tires, air beds, and to inflate my stand up paddle boards with a DIY adapter.
It's a good idea to carry a valve tool and some extra valve cores too.
Weird shit will break when you're in a hurry or in the middle of nowhere, or when the local weirdo takes an interest in you!
Some cars have an outlet (like you just plug anything in that can go into a house outlet), but usually you can get an adapter that plugs into the cigarette lighter/battery port and then your pump can plug into that. I believe this one is the one I used.
Disclaimer: I'm American and this worked with my car. I don't know if it's different in other countries/car makes.
I tested a number of epoxies on plastics, and found JB Weld PlasticWeld to hold the best on the various plastics I tried. There are a variety of types of plastics, and what works on one won't hold another.
It is 100% possible to use a bluetooth OBD adapter with iOS. I currently use the LELink OBDII with my iPhone 6s Plus. I bought this one for the exact same reason you did: I wanted to be able to have internet and be able to have my car diagnostics. I use it with the OBD Fusion app and works like a charm. The thing works so well that I can have my Apple Watch (the app offers an Apple Watch app so therefore it is meant to be connected to a watch and phone at the same time) and my car's audio system connected all at once. That's three different Bluetooth devices connected at the same time.
Edit: This solution is $55 less expensive than the Automatic device.
I bought a used Leaf 2 years ago from a private seller. Interestingly enough used prices for Leafs are up since then. After driving the car for 2 years the car is worth the same or more than when I bought it.
Advice for buying now:
Enjoy! I'm liking mine after 2 years. Battery not as good as a Tesla for sure for less than a quarter of the price I'm ok with that.
Heres a couple things I like having on my bike when I travel:
AC inverter: gives you a 110v outlet in case you need to power something like a phone charger and you don't have a 12v usb connector.
Water purifying tablet: They take up about a cubic inch of space and may save your life.
Large wet wipes: For giving yourself an on the go shower in case you meet your future wife and there is no shower access.
Small mess kit: I have a serbian mess kit and I love it. The knife included has a can opener and a bottle opener and is serrated and well made.
Head lamp: Because holding a flashlight while its cold and you are trying to do something sucks. I prefer ones that have single large diodes instead of lots of little ones as they are brighter and have better color. Also I try and get ones that use 18650 batteries so I can share a charger and batteries.
I used to puncture (not open) cans of veggies, like corn, drain 1/3 the liquid, and heat them in the engine compartment of my car while driving. Think I moved beyond that.
Hard pretzels are consistently the one snack that's with low/no oil. Still would check ingredients. Not quite WFPB, but widespread, vegan and low fat. Still, I find snacks like these don't give good satiety and I keep reaching for them. Easy energy.
Taco Bell is vegan with modifications. Enough oil in it though but food on the go. The two easiest and cheapest things to order is thus:
Grande meals composed of this are huge and cheap. Check your orders before leaving. Some locations really are bad at screwing it up.
Some equipment I recommend in your situation:
For much of your cooking, a microwave will actually be enough. Oatmeal, potatoes, rice, beans. Sure spaghetti and the rest will work too with practice.
Panfrying and searing isn't a major requirement in the WFPB kitchen and much could also be done in a conventional oven. You can get a toaster-oven for around $50 if you stay in the same room consistently although I don't think it's necessary. You can get yourself an countertop cooktop for $50-100, but the room will unlikely have ventilation or an outdoor, so this or toasteroven can backfire if smoke occurs.
There is one product I don't necessarily recommend for the hotel with the microwave, but if you are out on the road with a car a lot, and that's a HotLogic Mini Oven:
Consider this not for cooking but for reheating. It's a glorified hot plate that won't burn anything. I recommend the 12v with an good inverter in the car over a 12v version for the simple reason that you can use it in hotel rooms without modification. If you buy a 12v version and buy an adapter for outlets, you are much more likely to forget the adapter in hotel rooms.
If it's in the running due to extra people, 2 mini size is better than one family size imo.
The pyrex 6 cup they sometimes bundle with it is not spillproof so it was useless for soups and other wet stuff, but I got a 46 or 54oz glass glasslock-style spill-proof container at a local Marshalls that was perfect.
There is also those Indian Heat n Eat meals. Kohinoor and the like. Many have butter but there were some vegan varieties.
Also, up raw food eating. Fruits, salads, etc.
Eagle cans they are made in the USA since the 1800s and are pretty affordable. If you don't wanna order one, I have found them at ACE Hardware stores - hard to find them at big box places.
They also don't have the pesky safety mechanism that seem to create more spills than they prevent.
Eagle UI-50-FS Red Galvanized Steel Type I Gasoline Safety Can with Funnel, 5 gallon Capacity, 13.5" Height, 12.5" Diameter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Y75M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nEqwxbCXVF69F
Any type I gas can works a million times better
Eagle UI-50-FS Red Galvanized Steel Type I Gasoline Safety Can with Funnel, 5 gallon Capacity, 13.5" Height, 12.5" Diameter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Y75M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LPKnDbPGNJC5A
Just yell "TEAM CAR!"
Seriously though, I pack C02. If the existing sealant can't fix it, I toss in a tube and go. I also pack a Park Tire Boot in case of a sidewall cut.
Yep. For a mere $2 you can have a tool for all asshole parkers.
What you should do is buy a sealed lead acid battery, a power inverter, 12v clips to cig lighter and a charger.
I just picked those products as examples but that would work and would cost around $50. It could probably be cheaper if you look around.
Also the batteries in most small UPS are around 2 amp/hour while the one I picked is 8Ah.
And that would be pretty easy to use.
Try something like these
J-B Weld 8237 PlasticWeld Plastic Repair Epoxy Putty - 2 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003S2E4UE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yRZRDbA3W8TM7
J-B Weld 50133 Plastic Bonder Structural Adhesive Syringe - Tan - 25 ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009EU5ZNO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_iRZRDbXEJ04NG
It's very important to let it cure for at least a day or two. Even then it wouldn't be very structurally sound. I would recommend swapping the shell, but if you're not experienced it might be something you would have to pay to have done.
Edit: I should probably add that you should try to cover the PCB so you don't get any spillage on it. Tape would do fine.
Picked it up on Amazon. Make sure it's the MX Bluetooth. Here's the link: https://www.amazon.com/ScanTool-OBDLink-Bluetooth-Professional-Diagnostics/dp/B006NZTZLQ/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=OBDLink&qid=1567175649&s=gateway&sr=8-12
The iPhone wifi-only is not true anymore. I recently bought a Bluetooth low energy version. Waaay better than the wifi.
LELink Bluetooth Low Energy BLE OBD-II OBD2 Car Diagnostic Tool For iPhone/iPod/iPad https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QJRYMFC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_xfd5wbAJA4EE7
I believe this is the one the app recommended at the time, LELink, so that's what I got, even though it's more expensive than most others. I can confirm it works, though: ww.amazon.com/LELink-Bluetooth-Energy-OBD-II-Diagnostic/dp/B00QJRYMFC
Get Carista, you connect it to your OBD2 port (left of your steering wheel). It connects over Bluetooth to your phone and you can change all kinds of settings. Get rid of back up beeps, seatbelt beeps, and more. Must have!
Carista OBD2 Bluetooth Adapter, Scanner and App for iOS and Android: Diagnose, Customize and Service your Audi, VW, Toyota, Lexus, BMW, Mini or Scion with dealer level technology https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YVHGTBM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LJ5EAbS4Z0BPK
Depending on what you're doing with VCDS, a knockoff Ross tech cable can be had on ebay for $20 or less, and you can find VCDS online through a sketchy website of your choice.
Alternatively, Carista has VAG support, and allows you to customize a fair bit of stuff
Third option, there's plenty of guys on kijiji who will code stuff for you for $20 or less
Also, a bit pedantic, but its OBD2//OBDII, not 11
Cheers
No problem, actually to give my personal anecdote some real detail.
$35 scanner that can read live data
$155 Scanner that can read SRS and ABS
Glad to help.
Tresalto Auto Trim Removal Tool Kit, Set of 5 Pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8GHB7O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HoxDDbF7E3FPH
Can you see it leaking onto the ground anywhere. If not then its internal and because it foaming this is most likely the case. Since its foaming its getting air pressure from somewhere, its either a cracked head, block or head gasket. There are other internal leaks but none that would cause foaming. What i recommend you do is rent a block tester, most parts stores will do this.
Just realized how vague my reply was.
Weather mats - I was able to get "free" Honda ones from the dealer with my vehicle purchase. They're nice and fit well. I've heard great things about weather tech too. And don't forget one for the trunk too. Mine earned it's keep the first time a milk jug leaked. Super easy cleanup compared to carpet cleaning.
Interior leds - I used these plus this trim removal kit. Trim kit is a nice to have, you probably have something around the house to improvise with. For the actual install hit up you tube for "tenth gen Civic interior lights". It's a very easy job.
Also this was my first time having a car with a nice key fob so I got some of these to keep it from getting beat up. With auto lock, unlock, and push button start, it only leaves my pocket when I'm home anyway.
Just did this over the weekend. As the others have stated, if you're not forceful, you shouldn't be breaking any clips. I could probably tear the dash apart again in about 15-20 mins if I had to do it again.
I do highly recommend purchasing a plastic auto trim remover kit. They made popping the panels and clips ALOT easier. I purchased this one: https://www.amazon.com/Tresalto-Auto-Trim-Removal-Tool/dp/B01L8GHB7O/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1539017376&sr=8-4&keywords=auto+trim+removal
The trim remover comes in handy when you're trying to pop the clips to loosen the old AUX hub unit. You can find details instructions on how to remove the TRIM panel in the TRIM PDFs here: https://my.hidrive.com/share/hsodpqja.l#$/Mazda_Firmware/1%20CarPlay-AndroidAuto%20INSTALL
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IMO, I was more nervous about the software update than the physical labor of running the cables. I spent more time doing the software update because I needed a FAT32 formatted USB stick. That was a challenge since most of my memory sticks are 64gb+ and can only be formatted in exFAT/NTFS on Windows 10. Partitioning the 64gb drives to <32GB didn't really help me either, so I had to go purchase a <32GB usb stick and formatted to FAT32. Other than that, I was nervous about the installation failing, but it was also pretty straight forward. You need to complete the update ahead of the physical installation, so I'd recommend just getting that out of your way first.
I'm glad I did the installation myself, I don't know how neat the dealers would be in terms of dampening and tidying up the new cables.
You need to block test it...you can buy a kit fairly cheap....basically looks like turkey baster with 2 chambers...Napa sells the fluid...the fluid reacts exhaust gas mixing in the coolant,the fluid starts out blue and will change from green to yellow if exhaust gas is detected.
I use it daily in the shop out here in AZ
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VVBSFTF/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_HQehDbTWGEVGB
That radiator is plugged, or there is no flow going through it. You can try to flush it out with a garden hose, but that will likely only clean out one path for the coolant to go through (ie. You won't be using the whole radiator to cool the coolant).
Simply because it has been overheating though, I would do a block test just to make sure the headgasket is still good.
Here's my bike's cold start at 65 F. Sorry for the poor sound quality. As you can see it's spitting out a good amount of water.
Did your previous bikes have an aftermarket exhaust or straight pipe?
If you're still concerned about a HG leak, get one of these to detect exhaust gases in the cooling system.
I have this one: http://www.harborfreight.com/100-piece-security-bit-set-91310.html
Amazon has it too: http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-100-Piece-Security-Bits-Storage/dp/B000O5XDOG/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1312915054&amp;sr=8-5
They're called spanner bits. I have a kit (amazon link) which has the bits you need in the upper left side of the bottom clamshell.
I use this one at work and it's got a great selection, the case sucks though - if you accidentally open it upside once you'll never do it wrong again!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000O5XDOG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_w6MOBbA912VCP
A piece of good duct tape on the inside would fix it. Keep is to be strong enough to keep the tube from pushing out. Here are also tire boots. She idea. Park Tool TB-2 Emergency Tire Boot (Pack of 3) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000YBGJRS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XYrkDbMQ4Q5YE
You probably want a tire boot instead.
You'd probably be much better off going Tubeless, keeping some Park Tool Emergency Tire Boots on hand, along with a good CO2 inflator.
The Tubeless Sealant will plug small holes, the Tire Boots will fix sidewall punctures and the CO2 inflator will make quick work of re-inflating. Just get real air in it when you get back home since CO2 permeates rubber faster than air.
And you don't have to remove the wheel.
Tire boot (whether store bought or a dollar bill), zip ties, no-tool chain quick link, duct tape.
I blew a fiver into fifty pieces trying to use it as a tire boot. Now I carry Park Tool emergency boots.
Replace your tires a little before you need to and you'll be fine.
Edit: http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-TB-2-Emergency-Tire/dp/B000YBGJRS
You're gonna need some tyre boots to fix your sidewalls.
Tire plugs, as others have mentioned. Also, a tire boot.
Links: tire boot plug kit
Common sense is my everyday carry.
Generally keep a Tire thumper in my car, though that's a habit from my time as a truck driver more than anything.
I'll just leave this here.
You can plug a [12v charger] (http://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Nintendo-3DS-DSi-DSi-LL-XL-New-Black-Rapid-Car-Charger-/112036859354?hash=item1a15eacdda:g:NP4AAOSwc1FXbI97) into the lighter socket, or you could get a cheap inverter that plugs into the same socket and just use a wall charger plugged into that. This way you could also plug other things in besides a 3DS. 75watts is enough for even the WII U.
If you want to go with USB but don't have a charging port in the car then use [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Charger-Nintendo-Handheld-Console-DURAGADGET/dp/B00BWKW40Q?ie=UTF8&amp;*Version*=1&amp;*entries*=0).
12v outlout > Inverter or equiv > universal cell battery charger or equiv > your spare battery
Or 12v USB adapter for car + THIS.
FYI all i typed was i747 battery charger into amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003Q54V88/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479673252&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=car+plug+to+wall+plug&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41tMBaCn1aL&amp;ref=plSrch
In my car at all times.
I know I’ll get some shit for this, but, one time I had a Nissan that had a leaking fuel pump like this and I didn’t have a lot of money. So I cleaned the pump really well and shined a light on it while someone turned on the key and I found the tiny crack that the gas was coming out at.
So I went in my toolbox and found this plastic weld that I had bought previously. I put a coat, let it dry, put another coat and I drove that car for two years after that and never had a problem
I didn’t want to buy a cheaper autozone pump because they don’t last long and an oem pump is a lot of money
This is what I used.
J-B Weld 8237 PlasticWeld Plastic Repair Epoxy Putty - 2 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003S2E4UE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nPSDDbTHPR411
If qbond doesn't work for you there is also a 2 part molding clay that will stick/mold to anything and then you can filed it down to at least look aesthetically usable. Holds anything from plastic, wood, metal, obviously get the right type for this JB Plastic Weld
Too give you an idea, its held my 8 inch cracked bumper together for 2 years only by applying it to a the surface inside, its held/sealed a crack in my parents basement shower that i used for 2 years before I moved out, and It sealed a radiator leak that constantly sits at whatever the engine coolant temp gets too. Just mold your headphones with it where they fit and they'll never break again, at least not where it was welded.
Don't listen to this guy. WTF? If the battery is getting drained that has nothing to do with compression. The most likely scenario is an alternator issue. A brand new battery will work great until it gets drained and then it will stop working. What I would do is buy a $20 trickle charger and leave it on the battery. If it continues to start fine, it's because you're keeping it charged with the charger and that would imply that your alternator isn't charging your battery. I have had similar issues when not driving mine for a while because the battery will slowly drain over time from the onboard computer and alarm. My alternator works though so i just use the charger when I'm not driving mine.
This is what I bought and it works great: http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-BM3B-Battery-Maintainer/dp/B0051D3MP6/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_3
Seriously dude... why would this guy start saying scary things about compression when that has literally nothing to do with a constantly draining battery?
Edit: I missed the part about it not starting again even while jumping it. This is possibly because of flooding. If you don't let rotary engines warm up all of the way, they can flood. Best way to avoid this would be to leave the car running until it the temp gauge gets to the middle where it is straight up and down. I still think you main problem is the alternator though.
Another question I have is whether or not the engine is turning over or if your starter is going bad.
You would still need to plug the charger into an AC outlet. This is one I own that has an adapter for the accessory port.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051D3MP6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Theres probably other ones that have Lithium batteries that could be used to charge it instead if you park your car far away from an outlet.
this is the one I use:
http://www.amazon.com/ScanTool-426101-OBDLink-Bluetooth-Interface/dp/B006NZTZLQ
With additional bandwidth capabilities, it allows you to track multiple sensors without having it bog down. Also, the auto shutoff feature is pretty cool.
I use the torque app. the app is great, im just sad that BMW boost pressure sensor on non-diesels is capped at like 3 psi :(
I bought this one
GXG-1987 WiFi Wireless OBD-II Mini OBD2 Auto Car Diagnostic Scanner Tool Adapter Reader Scan Code Tester for iPhone 6S 5 iPad4 iPod mini iOS PC Windows, Android Device https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B3K2X4M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_Sm5Izb3NJ563T
Works great with my 2014 Five.
For apps I use the Carista app. And the DashCommand app.
and Coding is super simple on those cars if you have an iPhone/iPad/Android device! Just download (and pay for) bmwhat Android or iOS. Then order This from amazon or eBay. You can seriously code your car in 20min by pressing buttons. Only module I can't seem to use is the Alarm one with that adapter (i'm sure if you buy bmwhat's adapter it'll allow you to use it)
I turned mine off a few years ago using a guide found on Prius Chat. I have a 2013 model (gen 3). The OBDII dongle - I got the wi-fi kind - was $15 on Amazon. The app I used to connect to it was Engine Link, which is an iOS app (Was $5 at that time). While I was at it, I also turned off the seat-belt reminder ding.
If you want to use it with an iPhone, you need WiFi or Bluetooth LE. A "regular" Bluetooth one won't work.
I bought one of these https://www.amazon.com/LELink-Bluetooth-Energy-OBD-II-Diagnostic/dp/B00QJRYMFC for $35 and a generic WiFi one for about $15. There is a little more support for the WiFi one in more apps, but the Bluetooth one will be a little simpler because you don't have to switch wifi networks.
You may want to get an extension cable, they are tiny so easy to leave connected all the time but really hard to take in and out. If you got some sort of pigtail cable it will probably be easier to disconnect.
I use this one with my iPhone SE, on the list of compatible LeafSpy Pro devices for iOS.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QJRYMFC
2013 Leaf SV
I imagine you mean the check engine light codes? I haven't used it on a TL, but I used something like this before on another Acura:
https://www.amazon.com/Foseal-Bluetooth-Scanner-Diagnostic-Android/dp/B00T5G53ZM
I imagine something like this would work the same, and doesn't require a phone or other device to pair it with:
https://www.amazon.com/Oxgord-Scanner-Engine-Diagnostics-Direct/dp/B011Q18D14
So those should be able to tell you the specific codes needing attention as well as an option to clear them if you want. Of course, clearing doesn't do you any good if you don't do anything about the issues, it can very well come back. But once you have the specific codes, look them up online and see if you can pinpoint the possible issue and get it fixed. At the very least, you can know how serious it is.
I got this one... Carista OBD2 Bluetooth Adapter, Scanner and App for iOS and Android: Diagnose, Customize and Service your Audi, VW, Toyota, Lexus, BMW, Mini or Scion https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YVHGTBM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_zV6N96vYfBCFq
It is more expensive than some but comes with a free trial of their pro features in the app that connects via Wi-Fi. The trial is needed to do the functions you want. Just cancel the trial before they charge you the pro fee for the year.
I had previously ordered a cheaper one and tried to use random free apps, and I never got it to work.
Also, if your check engine light comes on, Pepboys or AutoZone (or some other commercial parts store) will let you borrow their code reader (aka OBD II) which will help you figure out what the problem is. Alternatively you could buy yourself a code reader from Amazon.
This way, if you are uncomfortable fixing it yourself, you can at least get a rough estimation of what the parts actually cost to replace.
Every car has there own drive cycle procedures but they all require roughly the same things. For his car yes, one of the steps was to go from 0mph to 55mph within 15 sec and maintain that speed for about 15 minutes then bring the car to a stop without using the brakes. There are a few other steps that you need to do to set all the monitors but they are usually met during normal operating conditions.
You can use an OBDII scanner to check yourself if they are set.
Get an Inverter like this one. Fill large bucket halfway with Tank Water. Move fish to bucket. Plug in Inverter into the car's cigarette lighter and add an air pump and a heater to the bucket. Plug air pump and heater into Inverter. Enjoy your drive!
For the tank itself after you have moved the fish to the bucket you can go ahead and drain the rest of the water from the planted tank. Then move the tank into your car. Once there just refill the tank and dechlorinate the water. Add the heater and air pump back to the tank and move the fish back into the tank once the water in the tank is back up to temp.
An Inverter may cost more than a battery powered air pump they can also be used for a lot more stuff. You can also get Inverters at almost any department store.
I didn't include a filter in the bucket since it's such a short trip. Don't really need a filter for two hour trip. If you were driving a long distance just add your filter to the bucket also.
I love my Spectra -- well as much as one can love a machine that sucks your nipples. I started pumping in the hospital with a Medela Symphony, and I get so much more milk with the Spectra.
I exclusively pumped for several weeks while LO was getting the hang of latching, so here are some tips:
I'd recommend getting a power invertor so you can pump in the car if you ever need to. I have this one from Amazon and it works great.
Prepare a "pump bag" to hold all your supplies -- hands-free bra (I have the Simple Wishes bra), pump, storage bags and bottles, permanent marker to label storage bags, a little container of olive oil to lube up my flanges (helps to prevent rubbing), small kitchen rags to wipe up milk, extra pump parts, etc. I use an LL Bean tote bag to transport everything.
In between pumps, I store all my pump parts in a gallon ziploc bag and stick it in the fridge so I don't have to wash them after every pump.
You have an air bubble in the head, so the temp sensor is largely reading the temperature of the much cooler air.
It's tricky to bleed a miata cooling loop fully, if the car is relatively level water pressure won't ever push air out and you'll have an air pocket that never moves. Raising the front end as much as possible helps, otherwise you can get a fill bucket like this.
https://www.amazon.com/EPAuto-Radiator-Coolant-Filling-Funnel/dp/B01I40ZQWE
You should also run the car with the cap off till the thermostat opens, then top it off and cap it off. If you just fill it up and cap it off it is certainly half full of air and might not even have enough coolant to actuate the thermostat.
Local box store such as lowes or order via amazon. The funnel is removable, but obviously useful for filling up mowers, other cans, etc...
Not that it helps but I have had good luck with this model:
https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-UI-50-FS-Galvanized-Gasoline-Capacity/dp/B00004Y75M/ref=pd_sim_86_11?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41Qm42Jo4RL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR159%2C160_&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=29JRFFYN19X5GX0AX181
5 gallon model costs $42, 2 gallon model costs $39.48.
That's flippin' brilliant! I will certainly give that a shot. Doing a little research in case anyone else finds this...
Bags, Burner, Boiler (looks like old eagle metal gas can) assorted flex hoses, clamps and tape and should be good to go.
Since you seem knowledgeable, can you comment on the safety of using a quality steel can like this in the trunk of a car? I'll be in a very remote area and I'm very concerned about running out of gas.
Well I guess it's not a dye it's like a 2 part turkey baster and you fill it with the blue fluid in two chambers, then open the cap and start it. Hold the turkey baster looking thing over the radiator sucking no fluid just air above hole from the radiator and the fluid instantly turns green when funes are detected in radiator. Here is the one I have and use.
https://www.amazon.com/UVIEW-560000-Combustion-Leak-Tester/dp/B000NPDL76
Use one of these to check for combustion gasses in the coolant.
They make a combustion gas tester.
https://www.amazon.com/UView-560000-Combustion-Leak-Tester/dp/B000NPDL76
Sometimes that helps diagnose.
https://www.amazon.com/UVIEW-560000-Combustion-Leak-Tester/dp/B000NPDL76
That won't tell you which gasket is leaking, but it will tell you if either of them are. If there is exhaust gas in your coolant system, then you're replacing something. You'll get it broken down to replace the LIM gasket and you'll be able to tell if that's the issue or not once you get the LIM off and inspect it. If it's ok, then you'll just keep going and pull the head. On a 3800 engine, it's gonna be the LIM gasket 99% of the time.
You can try a combustion leak tester. It's made to detect combustion exhaust gases in your coolant system, which only occurs if there's a headgasket leak between the cylinders and cooling system/water jackets. I don't know what you guys have across the pond, but auto parts stores here will rent the tool out for free (with a security deposit that is returned when the tool is returned), you just gotta buy the bottle of liquid. ...if you can find an employee that knows what the heck you are talking about lol. Last time I needed one, I had to try several different stores before I found someone who knew what it was.
They look like this:https://www.amazon.com/UView-560000-Combustion-Leak-Tester/dp/B000NPDL76
It does sound like your head gasket is a goner though. Unless there's a crack in the metal somewhere, it shouldn't need a new head, but you should get the head resurfaced to ensure it's flat. We don't have any machine shops in my area, so last set of head gaskets I did, I used a big thick mirror as a flat working surface and glued sandpaper onto it and used that to sand down the head. People here will probably discourage this, but it's a decades old tried-and-true DIY method.
Adding to this, here is a $12 bit set that has the bit you will need. In my opinion it is smarter to just but the right bit rather than go through the hassle of drilling it out
Neiko 100-Piece Security Bits Set with Hard Storage Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000O5XDOG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_pFs9wbECN5NHH
Look for a security screwdriver set, similar to this one.
You can get a set to get them open on Amazon. I recommend this set. I keep it with me in my backpack, and it's come in...handy.
Yeah, looks like tri wing. You need a security bit set, or you can probably buy just that bit online, but you'd have to get the size right. Sets are cheap, here is one on Amazon with tri wing bits.
Neiko 10048A Premium Security Bit Set, Chrome Vanadium Steel | 100-Piece Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000O5XDOG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0fAOCbWT6QVB9
An empty Gel pack is another common solution. Of course, you could also just keep a proper tire boot in your kit.
Put a boot inside and ride on. By boot I mean a tire patch.
https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-TB-2-Emergency-Tire/dp/B000YBGJRS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478388230&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Park+tools+tire+patch
Hey, I would consider buying some tire boots in case this ever happens to you again. I got some park tool ones from amazon and they work very nicely for the 2 times I've had to use them.
http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-TB-2-Emergency-Tire/dp/B000YBGJRS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1420513493&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=park+tool+tire+boot
Park tools also make tire boots that fill the function of the dollar bill. A bit more expensive - but they're adhesive, so you can stick them to the inside of the tire. Had to use one last week & it was great.
https://smile.amazon.com/Park-Tool-TB-2-Emergency-Tire/dp/B000YBGJRS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1525373110&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=park+tools+tire+boot
https://www.amazon.com/RoadPro-RPTT-1-Thumper-19-Inches-Assorted/dp/B001JT5CFY
A useful tool! -- /s
Here's a short explanation. My understanding is that it had to do with checking to be sure the tires weren't cheap and thin.
Some truckers still use something like this to get a quick read on whether or not a tire is exceptionally low. It's a bit of a different perspective, but physically hitting a tire is still a thing.
"Tire Thumper" is a go-to as well.
They sell these at most of the trucks stops I've visited.
That's called a tire thumper and truckers will often carry them in their semis to hit their tires with to see if they're at the right pressure.
But really, it's just a legal way to carry a club.
There is no RPTT3. The RPTT1 looks like the shortened baseball bat. And the RPTT simply stands for Road Pro Tire Thumper. I promise it's not just a bit. My terminal had around 70 drivers, and between the hours of 3 AM to 10 AM and 3 PM to 10 PM, you could hear the "thump^ping thump^ping thump^ping" during pre and post trips a mile away.
Tire thumpers baby!!
this isn't a baseball bat, its a small tire thumper. for truckers to check for flat tires! normally kept next to the drivers seat for convenience.
http://www.amazon.ca/RoadPro-RPTT-1-Assorted-Wooden-Thumper/dp/B001JT5CFY
> So this is where I'd grab my pump and let every last bit of air out of their tires.
Why not use one of these? [Tire valve tool] (https://www.amazon.com/Slime-20088-4-Way-Valve-Cores/dp/B0020T17J2/ref=sxts_kp?hvadid=78408977470626&amp;hvbmt=be&amp;hvdev=c&amp;hvqmt=e&amp;keywords=tire+stem+removal+tool&amp;pd_rd_i=B0020T17J2&amp;pd_rd_r=9a4a7d1d-f938-49ca-b823-7cb5898cc515&amp;pd_rd_w=Wx3aG&amp;pd_rd_wg=jPBuP&amp;pf_rd_p=81d99bd4-f902-4b23-8928-b05d50fd5b3c&amp;pf_rd_r=4T6VZSPTH8G6028PPJ0N&amp;qid=1570139102&amp;s=gateway). The best part is that nobody will be able to fill the tire with air initially and very few if any carry a tire valve on them. Now that I mention it, I need to put one back in my car for asshole parkers.
Solution: back out, let them have the spot. Remove the cores from their valve stems and leave them under the wiper blade.
A simple valve tool can remove the core from the tire valves. The tires (which remain undamaged) go flat; hooking up a compressor won't re-inflate them.
Only think about this if you see the driver park this way deliberately and need not have done so. Be sure to leave the tiny valve cores (descretely) someplace on the car so you can't be accused of theft.
> a car charger are my next accessory purchases for the Ascent.
Don't be a ridiculous individual
ELI5 within an ELI5: If cigarette lighters don't provide enough current to act as a typical electricity plug, why am I able to use one of these to run my laptop on road trips?
http://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-inverter-adapter-charger-notebook/dp/B003Q54V88/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1395550786&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=dc+to+ac+inverter
You could try some epoxy putty, e.g. https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8237-PlasticWeld-Plastic/dp/B003S2E4UE/
Might be easier if you can get the metal inserts (nuts) out of the hinge, then you can put the putty in/around the damaged holes in the casing and screw the inserts into that, you could put the screws in the inserts while scrweing them in, to avoid any epoxy getting into the threading.
It should also work with the inserts still in the hinge, might just be a bit more difficult.
If you don't want to use caulk, I'd suggest going with something inexpensive that comes in a small size, like this:
http://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8237-PlasticWeld-Plastic/dp/B003S2E4UE/ref=sr_1_9?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1406699163&amp;sr=1-9&amp;keywords=fiberglass+repair+kit
or even old school JB Weld. I think silicone caulk could work well, but if it doesn't then something that cures hard might give you more satisfactory results.
JB Plastic Weld (Putty)
Plastic repair putty?
It comes in a lot of different types but here's one:
https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8237-PlasticWeld-Plastic/dp/B003S2E4UE/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=repair+plastic&qid=1557279118&s=gateway&sr=8-3
I would use 2 part epoxy putty
https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8237-PlasticWeld-Plastic/dp/B003S2E4UE
Just kickstart it and ride around for a while. Order a battery charger, they're cheap.
BLACK+DECKER BM3B 6V and 12V Automatic Battery Charger / Maintainer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051D3MP6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_W73XAb4VHZE2K
Sweet, no problem. Hopefully that works well for you. If you need charger recommendations, I got a 12v black and decker charger/maintainer off amazon for about $25. I hook it up to my battery after every outing and it has worked well for 6 months.
Edit: It’s $14 on Amazon right now, and $15 at Walmart
I got my '15 PCX new in early 16 for around $3000 (if I remember correctly) + extra to build it and shipping fee. I think the build fee was like $100-$200 and another $100 for "shipping" it to the dealer. I think your getting an average deal.
Make sure the helmet you get is Snell certified. From what I remember the Snell cert is higher than the DOT cert. If this is your first helmet and you don't know what your doing, have the dealer fit you for a helmet. Its very important that it fits properly or it wont be as effective in an accident. When I got my PCX I got an HJC helmet from the dealer since I had no idea how to size one correctly. They are very nice helmets.
As far as bluetooth, make sure you read local laws. Some places make it illegal to use headphones while riding. Also, if your a new rider I would suggest not using them for a while and concentrate on the road.
As far as other stuff to buy, I would suggest a good jacket with pads and good padded gloves. If you hit the ground, you will be happy you had them.
Before winter, get yourself a small battery tender to maintain the battery while its in storage. If not, you may be buying batteries every year. My step dad has a Harley, never puts a tender on it over winter and wonders why he needs a new $125 battery every year. I got this one and it works great:
https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-BM3B-Automatic-Maintainer/dp/B0051D3MP6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1525264919&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=battery+tender+black+and+decker
I have just put together a system for a remote barn on my property. It may be overkill for what you are trying to accomplish, but thought it might help.
This is connected to a 12v deep cycle marine battery that you an find at NAPA.
Depending on frequency of use, you may be able to get away with a lower wattage solar panel, or, if it is rarely used, scrap the solar components all together and just lug the battery back to your house once a month a stick it on a trickle charger.
I use a 35ah deep cycle SLA battery like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HC57NXC/
SLA doesn't require any venting and works fine even upside down. They can also be left trickle charging forever, which makes a great backup if the power ever goes out. I get 3-4 nights at 14/18 on BiPAP without the humidifier. Humidifiers can be used, but it more than doubles the discharge rate. I still hook up the humidifier, but I leave it set at zero. This gives a bit of passive humidity. Your trolling motor box is fine. I use a toolbox with some plastic glued in to keep the battery in position. All the wiring can go inside (just like your trolling box), with a 12v cigarette adapter on the outside. This makes for a compact unit.
A voltmeter on the outside is really handy to know how much juice you have left. Also, I leave it charging all the time, so the voltmeter lets me know that everything is 100% ready. This one I picked up has USB too:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QKDXB8E/
I use this cheap charger (The "Battery Tender" ones are recommended, just a bit more expensive):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051D3MP6/
The total cost was under $125 (plus a DC to DC adapter, which it sounds like you don't need).
Shoot me a message if you need a hand getting setup.
edit: here's some pics
http://i.imgur.com/5AQaiw9.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/sHb3sQr.jpg
Here's some good, firsthand info:
Choosing a Battery
A sample of other components
How long will a battery last with/without humidifier?
OBDLink MX
I use this on a variety of cars, it has never let me down. Note that the bluetooth versions are not compatible with Apple devices. There is a Wi-Fi variant avaiable.
buy [this] (https://www.amazon.com/ScanTool-426101-OBDLink-Bluetooth-Professional/dp/B006NZTZLQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510680517&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=obdlink+mx&amp;dpID=41SkrnSZ7OL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch)
Download [here] (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.thunkable.android.myvoltapp.MyVoltHold&amp;hl=en)
Then you just pair it and press engine on and it switches over holding whatever charge you have.
Are you going to be hooking up an OBD2 logger to it as well?
e.g., http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NZTZLQ/
Also, very nice build!
Here's the one I got: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NZTZLQ/
It's a great device for getting codes or other diagnostic info out of your vehicle. Various apps and things available (like Torque) to find out what is going on "under the hood."
You'll need an OBD scanner like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NZTZLQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
and a lot of digging around in this thread http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1961691#post1961691
I bought this dongle and the Torque Pro app. You have to enable the fast data stuff somewhere in the torque pro settings, can't remember where exactly. The dongle comes with its own free app which is ok, but Torque Pro is better.
The one I have looks like it has been discontinued/not made anymore/not stocked through amazon anymore. This one appears to be the same with maybe a few added things and bigger
Autel AutoLink AL319 OBD2 Scanner Automotive Engine Fault Code Reader CAN Scan Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007XE8C74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_t0CIAb8VWPT5Z
Start here:https://www.amazon.com/Autel-AutoLink-AL319-Scanner-Automotive/dp/B007XE8C74
Here's paperwork for all the possible waivers...might you qualify for one?
https://dnr.mo.gov/gatewayvip/v-owner/Forms.htm
Edit to add: you can get a cheap code reader for $30 or less on Amazon or at Harbor Freight Tools.
Example - https://www.amazon.com/Autel-AutoLink-AL319-Scanner-Automotive/dp/B007XE8C74/
with that, you could look up the specific code your self, and then google it and the make and model of your vehicle and see if that suggests a cure. Failing that, you can use the tool to force the CEL off. When you do this, certain of the internal tests that your car does can not be done for a while, until you drive enough that various self-tests are automatically done (which may turn the CEL back on). This tool can also tell you how many sub-systems are in test ready mode. For a 2007, I believe you are allowed to get the emissions test done with one test in not ready mode. See slide 8 of this powerpoint...
https://www.ewgateway.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/2015-Oct-GatewayVehicleInspectionPgm.pdf
I have an older car that is always setting the CEL, but I can force it off and then drive it just enough that all systems except one are ready to self-test, at which point I can get it to pass inspection before the CEL comes on again, and I'm good for another two years.
The rules got more relaxed last month...
https://www.ky3.com/content/news/Local-shop-weighs-in-on-new-inspection-law-512616921.html
...but I don't think that does you any good.
Happy motoring.
I suggest this as it can scan ABS and SRS codes and live data monitoring. I have this in my work truck at all times, just in case.
Autel MaxiLink ML619 CAN OBD2 Scanner Code Reader +ABS/SRS Diagnostic Scan Tool, Turns off Engine Light (MIL) and ABS/SRS Warning Lights https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072XH9GLW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TLgoDbWN50SAF
I’m not a fan of the phone adapter ones myself, but I’ve heard some people like this with similar options
BlueDriver LSB2 Bluetooth Pro OBDII Scan Tool for iPhone & Android https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00652G4TS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5OgoDb6XGEKRR
You can get the lower tier options that can only read/erase codes but have no SRS/ABS ability for under $50.
Autel AutoLink AL319 OBD2 Scanner Automotive Engine Fault Code Reader CAN Scan Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007XE8C74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_K2goDb06ZB4RZ
Most chain auto part stores should be able to scan for free (or sell you one), or you can get one here.
I would also recommend a generic bluetooth adapter like the elm327 if all you want to do is be able to read/erase codes and you don't plan to use it very often. For something a little better, I'd recommend this one: https://www.amazon.com/Autel-AutoLink-AL319-Scanner-Automotive/dp/B007XE8C74/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1539451895&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=autel+obd2+scanner
It can read/erase codes as well as view the emissions ready monitors.
I have this exact same car (97 outback 2.5L) and I've had multiple late 90s subarus over the years, and it can be very annoying to complete the drive cycle or know if the emissions check of the ECU is working as intended or just taking its sweet-ass time doing its checks. As /u/bobbysenterprises mentioned:
> What exactly is considered a drive cycle seems to be protected closed source information.
is fairly accurate. basically you need a combination of low speed driving, stop and go, idling, high speed driving, acceleration, and deceleration. You could probably complete the cycle in an hour or so of just aimless driving, with the intent to try and lot of varied driving.
Here's a tip, invest in an OBD2 code reader that can tell you the system readiness state, I have one of these which can do this (as well as read/clear codes, etc). At least this way you can drive around, check the readiness state, and know if its working or not. Here's a slightly fancier version with a color screen
I got this reader seven years ago (no app). And I would say if it comes to price, focus on erasing over lookup features - I've always just Googled my codes and it worked fine.
It looks like this is the successor - well rated, but not cheap. The emissions status is a good feature, too. Looking around... this one is what I would buy today.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007XE8C74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ECgRCbP2DKDKH
Price has gone up but what I like about this one is it translates the code so it saves a google search
I bought this one recently: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007XE8C74/
I'm sure the local parts stores have something, too.
Like you said, I would check for vacuum leaks and if your exhaust is loud maybe you have an exhaust manifold leak. Also test fuel pressure and make sure your pump or regulator isn't starting to give out. I had a similar problem on my e90 and it took forever to figure out the problem.
As for the shifting, sounds like a clutch issue.
Edit: invest in one of these, it links directly to my phone or tablet. I use the BMWhat software, but if you have an Android device you need to use the Bluetooth version of the adapter not the wifi version.
ieGeek® WIFI Wireless OBD2 Auto Scanner Adapter Scan Tool for iPhone iPad iPod
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B3K2X4M/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_.ajtub1NSX5J2
Edit 2: Shit just realized you have a 94. The above device won't work for you. Sorry about that.
If you have a smartphone I would recommend a wireless OBII scanner!. I can't speak for this particular model, but mostly they're all cheap and do an OK job.
I would get some sort of universal emergency kit, such as a JustinCase! or something similar. You will probably never use it, but it is great to have when you do need it. It's also small and compact so it won't take up much space. You can also fit a few more basic tools in this bag if you wished.
I would also recommend having an envelope with your insurance, registration, and possibly a photocopy of your license(I forget my wallet often and it's nice to have a copy just in case). You can laminate these if you so wish. You wont lose your important stuff and it wont get ruined either!
I would also recommend doing your own maintenance on your car. You get to learn a little more how it works and best of all you save money! Youtube has many videos on basic car maintenance. If you ever do more complex work I would recommend picking up a Haynes or Chilton repair manual for your vehicle.
I went from literally knowing nothing about cars to rebuilding engines. I'm not a mechanic and don't make any money from this. I just value being able to fix something myself. It takes time, but a great way to get started is to learn how engines work on youtube or whatever. Once you have a general understanding of how an engine works you can diagnose problems much more easily.
Someone posted a 13 dollar one further down in the thread
https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Diagnostic-Scanner-Adapter-Windows/dp/B00B3K2X4M
http://www.amazon.com/ieGeek%C2%AE-Wireless-Scanner-Adapter-iPhone/dp/B00B3K2X4M
Oops!
All cars from the mid-90s and up have OBD 2. All the device does is essentially act as a translator to the car's OBD 2 and your device.
http://www.amazon.com/ieGeek®-Wireless-Scanner-Adapter-iPhone/dp/B00B3K2X4M
You can use either a laptop or smartphone/tablet. Don't know if that specific reader above will work, but that's the type of device.
Edit: if you do go the smartphone/tablet route it goes without saying that the included CD won't work. You need to download an OBD 2 reader app. A good one is DashCommand, and it's $10 in the App Store.
Edit 2: Here it is in action. 2 minutes, top.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vyXKRFwIOtQ&amp;app=desktop
Don't let the wires deter you. It looks like he has that permanently mounted and those are power and audio cables. The OBD reader is still operating wirelessly.
Since i have an iOS device i picked up this guy
Then got EngineLink off the app store
leaf spy recommended one specific scanner, the LELink bluetooth model.
I would go with that specific model.
it is awesome!
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QJRYMFC
I've owned two wifi models, a chinese one and a good plx devices kiwi and the first was maddening and rarely worked correctly, and the second sometimes required extra resetting.
now that ios supports bluetooth, its all easy peasy.
You need an iphone that supports bluetooth 4.0.
anyway, leaf spy connects perfectly and without intervention or configuration in a second or two and its a whole different (good) experience.
Yeah, the LE Link (in case someone wants the link) is really slick by comparison to the other OBD connectors I saw. Very small, pulls nearly no power, and I never even had to pair it.
Here is the mobile version of your link
Not easily at all. The only way that comes to mind for me is to get an Android head unit and use an app like Torque to pair to a OBD2 monitor like this one.
Doing things yourself offers great rewards(:
If you're looking to dick around with some more stuff you can spend a few hours playing with a bluetooth OBD II connector paired to an Android phone + Torque Pro
https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Foseal-Diagnostic-Scanner-Automotive/dp/B00T5G53ZM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1473807422&sr=8-3&keywords=elm+327+bluetooth
Not professional by any means, but it's cheap, can do some things, and at the least offers a nice MPG screen
Amazon and eBay are full of knockoff ELM327 ones that work about the same. I've got this one, and it works fine but I don't like how far it sticks out from the ODB2 port. So this one might be better?
I have it working with my 1997 7.3l and this adapter. I'm sure it works with others, but I know for a fact that this one works. (And it's only $11USD)
Make sure you add the Custom PIDs for the Powerstroke.
I spent ~$13 on a Bluetooth adapter from amazon and it has worked great!
This is the one.
Check out an app called Carista.
You'll need a smartphone and a Bluetooth OBD2 adapter, but it opens up a ton of settings that may not be available through the in car system, and even some that dealerships either don't typically know about, or don't like changing for customers.
Agreed, but FYI buying a Carista and changing the throttle coding from "Gradual" to "Direct Throttle Response" helped a TOOOOON with making acceleration more linear. Unfortunately it sounds like "turbo lag" is a very real thing on a lot of new cars out there, though.
Instructions for the direct throttle change here (you can also use OBDeleven/VCDS but Carista was the cheapest and looked the easiest): https://www.reddit.com/r/GolfGTI/comments/8suyqd/how\_to\_increase\_throttle\_response\_this\_worked/
I have an XR on 12.4
I use this to scan vehicle codes all day. You can't use a cheap ELM 327 blue android one, gotta use a newer one like this.
https://www.amazon.com/Carista-Bluetooth-Adapter-iPhone-Android/dp/B00YVHGTBM/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=carista&amp;qid=1573218915&amp;sr=8-2
I have a Carista and didn't use my free trial until there was a code I really wanted to get more info about. (It gives "regular" codes without a subscription, but some of the more Toyota-specific, you have to get a subscription for it to display the last couple of digits, but it comes with a month free trial that you activate when you need it. Some of the other scanners may be different, but based upon a recommendation, it's the one I chose)
There are two batteries in a Prius. There's a 12v that boots the computer and whatnot. If that hasn't been replaced, it may be soon due (and replacing it could possibly get you a little better gas mileage), but it's only a couple of hundred bucks from an auto parts store and you may not need to replace it any time soon.
There's also the big hybrid or traction battery for the electric motor. ChrisFix has an excellent video about replacing it yourself, if that's something you'd like to do. Everybody will tell you it's cheaper to buy one from someone other than a dealer, but luckily I haven't had to do it and my older Prius has around 197k.
Of course, some people have had to replace them much earlier -- this forum or Priuschat.com could be a source of more info -- but I'd say the majority of people have had not. I've noticed a lot of Prii on the market around 116k to 130k. I believe it's because the battery warranty runs out at 100k, everywhere but California, where they require the same battery to be warrantied for 150k. And again, knock on wood, I have one pushing 200k.
Yeah, so this sounds a lot like my 99. Never threw a code for the bad O2 sensor, but would throw the cat code. You could be getting the cat code either because your cat is actually shot (although I'm not sure if that would be the cause of the bucking when cold) or because the front (and possibly rear) O2 sensors are shot, causing the computer to think your cat is shot. If you were having misfires, it's definitely possible your front O2 sensor is dying. An OBD-II sensor will be really helpful here if you don't want to pay a mechanic to troubleshoot it. I use this one and while their app works, I prefer OBD Fusion, which also has an O2 sensors monitor that will show you the self test information from the computer for those as well.
This is the code reader I bought my little brother. While it's no where near as nice as mine but it works and gets you the most basic information you could ever need on a day to day basic maintenance.
Known as a "check engine light" or CEL as abbreviation. Depending on car you can buy a scanner to read (most likely obdii): Example https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G5EA74I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i3bOAbDN13N20
But most likely you will read the code and not know what to do afterwards without diligently searching on forums so you might want to just bring the car into a shop that does free code reads.
Fyi sometimes its comes on because you didnt tighten the gas cap. If you are lucky thats the only reason.
Code readers are super cheap and easy to use. I got this guy for $35 and it works perfectly. I had a faulty ECM that kept throwing engine codes. There's tons of other options too if you want more functionality, like on an Access Port.
FUCK YES to making festivals a larger part of your life. One of the best decisions I’ve ever made :) I don’t know about the best shoes for dancing, but I always wear Vans to shows and festivals and I’ve never had an issue with my feet hurting. I think they’re a great option :) As for things to take the night of or after partying I would recommend a multivitamin, tylenol and a smoothie. The best thing you can really do to help yourself out is to eat lots of fruits and veggies in the days leading up to an event (or all the time!). Also constantly drinking water. I’ve tried a lot of extra supplements and misc. vitamins but they all are kinda extra and not needed to me. Also I constantly eating Cliff bars at festivals even when I’m not hungry. I feel better usually when I really really load up on calories. Healthier ones though!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LCBRQK5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Just bought this air mattress this year so haven’t tested it longterm, only used it for one festival so far. It stayed inflated well for the first 2 days and then we just topped it off with some more air for the remaining days and it worked great for us. Super comfy and it’s nice being higher off the ground. We put the air mattress in the tent before we inflate it, way easier. No air pump needed we use a car plug adapter and an extension cord. Its super easy to run your car for 5 minutes to inflate it. Make sure you pay attention to the number of prongs on your plug so you don’t buy the wrong adapter or extension cord too! For camping without a car nearby this method won’t work obviously but we always have the car by us.
https://www.amazon.com/Foval-Power-Inverter-Converter-Charger/dp/B01H2XD2DY/ref=sr_1_3?crid=QOQ31WLDSSM1&keywords=outlet+car+adapter&qid=1562429828&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&s=gateway&sprefix=outlet+car+a%2Caps%2C149&sr=8-3
https://www.amazon.com/Coleman-Sundome-4-Person-Tent-Green/dp/B004J2GUOU/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=coleman%2Btent%2B4%2Bperson&qid=1562429920&s=gateway&sr=8-3&th=1&psc=1
My boyfriend and I purchased this tent 2 years ago and its made it though a decent amount of festivals. No signs of wear or damage. I know you mentioned a black out tent. I’m assuming to help sleep once the suns up? The heat usually gets me out of the tent before the light, it gets so unbearably hot once the suns up. You said you’re not new at this though so I’m sure you already knew that! :)
For staying cool I would recommend a cooling towel. Get it wet in your cooler ice water and it’s great to keep around your neck. Also small hand fans are a GAME CHANGER for guys and girls. It’s shocking how much they help honestly. Sitting with your feet in a small pool, bucket, or cooler when you’re hanging out at the campsite is super nice too. Just fill with water and some ice cubes and it really helps cool your body down!
https://www.amazon.com/Amajiji-Chinease-Japanese-Nylon-Cloth-Festival/dp/B07FMCF4G1/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=hand+fan&qid=1562431437&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Cooling-Instant-Chill-Athletes-Workout/dp/B00XKLYWFU/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=cooling+towel&qid=1562431333&s=gateway&sr=8-6
Hope this info helped you out!
I'd say forget what you see on youtube, thats some made up fantasy shit. If you try living on the beach prepare to be rousted every time you try to sleep.
Mosquitos will destroy you, be ready to deal with that. Mosquito netting over your bed area is a good idea(I use a king sized bed sheet and a clothes hanger rope over my cot). Also I have one of these I run if unwanted biting insects get into the van, I just full charge my battery before I go to bed and leave it on all night.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079N6BSNR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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You will need a minimum of two 100w solar panels and a 100amp hour deep cycle battery if you plan to have any kind of electronics. I run a laptop(acer e5-575-338m) two cell phones and a 27" monitor on this all day every day. Once the sun goes down I unplug the laptop from the charger and can get ~6 hours off the laptop battery and the deep cycle will run my cell phone(internet) and my 27" monitor all night with power left over. The 27" monitor uses 28w of power(acer K272HL).
Currently I use this so I can have the panels out in the sun while I'm in the shade:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L6OU74M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Y connectors to combine the panels:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0753X68PS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This charge controller(I wish I had spent the $200 to get a really good one but it works)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06W5NP5JR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I went with poly panels, did a ton of research they seemed to be the best option for me.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DCCOSV0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
A couple of these so you can plug in 12v chargers:
https://www.amazon.com/BreaDeep-Cigarette-Lighter-Waterproof-Motorcycle/dp/B014RD1OPU/ref=pd_rhf_ee_s_rp_c_0_2/146-1188812-1452443?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B014RD1OPU&pd_rd_r=6b983fee-fccd-44b0-9fce-701243a4c0df&pd_rd_w=Sa4dV&pd_rd_wg=e0mjZ&pf_rd_p=e7de3e41-8621-46b5-8090-e75951bb9b3e&pf_rd_r=JEW1CZD3WQW1QCM9GMDC&psc=1&refRID=JEW1CZD3WQW1QCM9GMDC
1000w true sine inverter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002I04A74/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
much cheaper 150w inverter(not true sine):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H2XD2DY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Honda generator for when there is no sun or emergency electricity, get the honda its more expensive but I originally had a cheaper generator and it only lasted like 6 months before it broke.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/slredirect/picassoRedirect.html/ref=pa_sp_atf_aps_sr_pg1_1?ie=UTF8&adId=A104214812TOLRTJE6CW7&url=%2FHonda-2200-Watt-Portable-Inverter-Generator%2Fdp%2FB07R1HK2RL%2Fref%3Dsr_1_1_sspa%3Fkeywords%3Dhonda%2Bgenerator%26qid%3D1567965512%26s%3Dgateway%26sr%3D8-1-spons%26psc%3D1%26smid%3DA1QT7IAE1TPQ4M&qualifier=1567965512&id=8997328653646739&widgetName=sp_atf
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You will need a commode, I have tried them all and this works best in my opinion. Use either dirt or mix black water deodorizer in a gallon of water and poor it over the waste. Pee into a separate bottle, combining pee and waste is what cause most of the smell. Then tie off the garbage bag and put it in a gallon freezer bag and store that in a 5 gallon bucket from home depot with an airtight lid. This way you can throw out the waste with your regular garbage.
https://www.amazon.com/Reliance-Products-Portable-Lightweight-Self-Contained/dp/B000FIDZLI/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=bucket+toilet&qid=1567964099&s=gateway&sr=8-6
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You will need the best cooler you can afford, ice is a serious pain in the ass to keep having to get every day. A Yeti knockoff will work and you can get one for under $200 but a dometic compressor cooler/freezer is best, but it will cost you like $800.
This is the one I have:
https://www.amazon.com/Dometic-Electric-Powered-Portable-Freezer/dp/B072MLT6QW/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=dometic+compressor+cooler&qid=1567964655&s=gateway&sr=8-3
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Another thing I found very useful is a salt shotgun for flys and other annoying insects(its a never ending battle). They make one you can buy but I made my own instead, you just cock the bolt pump it up and then use a funnel to poor a pinch of salt down the barrel. It will kill any bug you shoot as if it was hit by a mini shotgun.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Crosman-P1377BR-American-Classic-Air-Pistol-Bolt-177-Brown-Black/43989760
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I would recommend a cheap propane burner instead of the fancy coleman butane burners, personal preference but when I had the butane burner I would go through butane like crazy and its kind of expensive. Not to mention you can't always find butane in store but you can always find the little propane canisters.
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Wet wipes are your friend.
Apple cider vinegar with water works for a diy sponge bath.
Keep a well stocked medical kit
Get a big can of bear spray or two for self defense, just know it won't work on mountain lions. I keep bear spray and a marlin guide gun for large animals(moose/bear) and a 9mm for two legged predators. I have had death threats and all kinds of crazy shit happen so just be prepared.
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Locking gas cap is a MUST, lost one of my vans due to some asshole pouring water in my gas tank.
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A Verizon phone with the cheapest unlimited tethering plan($70/mo), Verizon has by far the best coverage in the USA.
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I'm probably forgetting something but that is my advice, been on the road over three years now.
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It is going to be hard, extremely hard, you will suffer. Don't expect it to be a vacation, its a survival skill not some pretend shit you see on youtube unless you have unlimited money to spend.
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Gas will be your biggest expense, I spend more on gas that it would cost to rent an apartment. The only way to cut down on that is to find a spot you can stay long term(which is VERY hard, people do NOT want homeless guys in vans living outside there house).
For a MBP you’ll want to use a power inverter , something like this one. I think the 15” MBP has a 87w charger so you’ll just need one that provides in the 100w+ range.
maybe something the inverts the cars cig lighter into a ac outlet.... https://www.amazon.com/Foval-Power-Inverter-Converter-Charger/dp/B01H2XD2DY/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1501928318&amp;sr=1-2&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A4889846011
Would something like this work? You would have to plug it into the car and have the car running.
If you have to work on it later, these are a life saver if you don't have one already. Make sure to make the fill point is the highest point while you do it. Ramps are all you usually need to do that.
It’s only $20 and it’s needed. Either your local auto parts store will have it or you can buy it here.
https://www.amazon.com/EPAuto-Radiator-Coolant-Filling-Funnel/dp/B01I40ZQWE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?adgrpid=58764058049&amp;gclid=CjwKCAjwkenqBRBgEiwA-bZVtoEqNRMEjUMWBL3GbW3-C_nYD-uuJ0ZfgihAUCwsOXsoV5PrcRgX8hoCOrYQAvD_BwE&amp;hvadid=274667037306&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvlocphy=9027658&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvpos=1t1&amp;hvqmt=e&amp;hvrand=2507075615956579707&amp;hvtargid=aud-647006051489%3Akwd-310149416043&amp;hydadcr=25614_9900508&amp;keywords=burp+funnel&amp;qid=1566234999&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;psc=1&amp;spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzMEVTS0dXSFRLT0FXJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzA4OTIzMUFTSDUwNVJaSFY1NyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNTAxMzU4WlgzTEZZMFEwVDFCJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfcGhvbmVfc2VhcmNoX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
Even if your car comes with a bleeder valve I highly recommend using the method in the video with a burp funnel.
For brake fluid, use this tool
For coolant and trans, you can drain it into a drain pan.
To refill the coolant, you can use this tool
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did you only bypass the core? so shouldn't turning the heater on still switch open the piping that would normally lead to the heater core?
at any rate I recommend a radiator fill kit like this: https://www.amazon.com/EPAuto-Radiator-Coolant-Filling-Funnel/dp/B01I40ZQWE then you just set it up and run the engine until it warms up (heater switch at least turned on a bit to open it) and this allows your coolant to be higher than the rest of the system which forces air out.
Pull it from the top. Pretty straightforward. Plenty of youtube vids to give you some pointers. Make sure to get all the air out of the system when refilling. If you're planning on keeping this or any other Jeep do yourself a favor and get one of these to make the refill process foolproof. Cheap online or can be had for a couple bucks more at Wally World or any parts store.
Taking the door apart with the right tools, usually panel or trim removal tools (this is what I got) can be less difficult than you might think.
I replaced mine last week on my 2011 Speed and it was a learning experience. And yes the new part cured the false alarm issue. Here's a video on how to remove the door panel but not the actuator. Thanks to Ally at Everything DIY:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C9wlWCF3LrA
I didn't read the service manual beforehand but I wish that I had. If you have questions feel free to ask.
Edit: Take lots of pics as you disassemble the inner door panel. Ally's video does a great job documenting the outer door panel.
Edit 2: A set of door panel removal tools are nice to have in your tool arsenal. I bought a set at Harbor Freight but these are very similar:
https://www.amazon.com/Tresalto-Auto-Trim-Removal-Tool/dp/B01L8GHB7O/ref=pd_cp_263_1?pd_rd_w=szsGV&amp;pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&amp;pf_rd_r=KTHPKPSDHKF8K2Z5E9V0&amp;pd_rd_r=6d79417f-a761-11e9-ba93-c31e6dacbe46&amp;pd_rd_wg=8imSE&amp;pd_rd_i=B01L8GHB7O&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=KTHPKPSDHKF8K2Z5E9V0
A hook and pick set is a must have as well:
https://www.amazon.com/GreatNeck-621-Piece-Hook-Carde/dp/B000CMDQ4S/ref=sr_1_25?crid=26BXJMU79EZG9&amp;keywords=hook+and+pick+set&amp;qid=1563237505&amp;s=automotive&amp;sprefix=hook+and+%2Cautomotive%2C191&amp;sr=1-25
I literally installed this on my 2019 4 days ago. Took about 20 minutes. Invest in a proper trim removal tool kit so you dont mess anything up
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8GHB7O/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_wjVDDbG0Z2MHG
Those clips look similar to the ones that hold the door panels down. They were also super flush. I was able to get them off by using a flat head screw driver to lift them just enough to slide in a trim tool under the flathead, remove the flathead, and pry the clip with the tool. The tool I used came in a set. You could also probably get them at an auto parts store. I bought mine online.
Tresalto Auto Trim Removal Tool Kit, Set of 5 Pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8GHB7O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XWD4Db6B3XYBG
I swapped the factory JBL radio/cassette/CD changer for this Sony double DIN unit which is less than $250. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_158XAV1000/Sony-XAV-AX1000.html?skipvs=T
This is a basic CarPlay unit with no CD drive, no standalone navigation (but you get navigation in Carplay mode), it has Sirius XM support but not built in (has a socket on the back to plug-in the extra Sirius doodad).
Works fine for me. I think any double-DIN Carplay radio would work fine though.
I like this one because it has USB, volume knob and aux on the front and it's good value.
You can pay more and get fancier ones from various makers with features like DVD/CD drive, standalone navigation, wireless Carplay, HD radio.
I used 2 Axxess boxes recommended by the Crutchfield website to connect to the JBL factory amp and the steering wheel controls. I'm not sure retaining factory amp was worthwhile, and you may not have one. It would have worked fine with radio's built-in amp I think. Keeping the steering wheel volume buttons is nice. There is also an adaptor box that does both JBL interface and wheel controls from another maker.
I got a Metra dash kit which slots it in the dash perfectly.
I installed the radio's supplied Sony microphone instead of the Toyota one for Bluetooth calls.
I added a Pioneer backup camera :
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130NDBC8/Pioneer-ND-BC8.html
The 2005 has a factory spot for a camera (because that was a Japanese option in 2005), so I put it there.
Initially I bought the head unit from Best Buy which meant they did free installation, but their installation was so bad that I do not recommend it. After one trip back to fix things they broke I realized that every time they fixed something they broke something else, so I finished the job myself.
Things Best Buy screwed up:
They installed the Sony mic nicely at windscreen top left, ran the cable to the radio, but forgot to plug it into the back of the radio. Doh! I had to take the whole dashboard apart to fix this.
They instlalled backup camera fixed to nothing, just hanging by cable pointing in roughly the right direction (I dremeled a groove for the camera cable in the original Toyota mounting plate which they had removed, glued plate back into place, attached camera to it properly).
They didn't reconnect the dashboard dimmer switch so dash lights could not be dimmed. I took the lower left dash apart and plugged it in.
They cracked two dash vent pieces. They paid for and replaced one but I later noticed they'd cracked the other and replaced it myself. This all required used parts from EBay.
They lost half the special flanged nuts that hold the hatchback handle piece on, which I noticed when it started to fall off (I got more from Toyota dealer for like $2 a nut. That's a lot for a few nuts but cheap for a repair.).
They lost various other dashboard nuts and bolts that I haven't replaced yet but dashboard is currently holding together.
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So in short, hire a competent radio installer or do it yourself carefully. Free installation isn't free, it turns out.
If you do any work yourself you will need a car trim removal kit like this one:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L8GHB7O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1. It has various tools to take dash panels off without damaging them. I found YouTube videos to help me take the dash apart and properly remount the camera.
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It was a pain but the end result works great. The Sony's Bluetooth is much better than the factory BT for phone calls. Now there's music streaming over Bluetooth too. Radio works fine. Backup camera is great, comes up on radio screen when you engage reverse. In Carplay mode (with iPhone plugged into USB) it does great navigation via choice of map apps, Podcast app works fine, Siri will read text messages to me, great music support.
Headlights (you only need one pair. the cutoff is outstanding)
Map lights, license plate lights, running tail lights, and side marker lights
Reverse lights
Front turn signals (accessible from under the vehicle - pin remover and 10mm socket needed)
Rear turn signals (requires tail light disassembly)
Turn signal resistors (required to prevent hyperflashing; soldering is recommended)
Brake lights (requires tail light disassembly)
Daytime-running lights (pliers needed)
Trunk light and dome light
If you follow the instructions in the initial post (which indicates for each part where to apply pressure and in which sequence) and get a trim kit (ex: Tresalto Auto Trim Removal Tool Kit, Set of 5 Pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8GHB7O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nspyCbJVYTMH4), you will not break anything.
I too have a 2015 RT Plus Shaker. And back in January I did the swap.
Here's the best price you'll find: https://www.stevewhiteparts.com/exterior-15-18-dodge-challenger-392-6.4l-front-lip-lower-chin-spoiler-mopar-factory-oem-1517lipspoiler?parent=1021
You'll find lower prices on other sites, but then their shipping is outrageous. That site has the lowest price when shipping is figured in.
and here's some other things you will need to get the job done
S&G Tool Aid 19400 Rivet Tool for Plastic Rivet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007QV2E50?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf You will need at least 35 of these rivets. Just get the 100 piece package as you will waste some of them. They're cheap enough anyway.
PartsSquare 100pcs Fender Liner Fastener Rivet Push Clips Retainer for Chrysler Dodge Jeep https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B2RC6WY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TssiAbG4Q20VM
You may need some of these as well. It's not a bad idea to use them inside the wheel well so that future removals are much easier.
GOOACC Nylon Bumper Fastener Rivet Clips Automotive Furniture Assembly Expansion Screws Kit Auto Body Clips 8mm - 40PCS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008427D88/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_aldZPoDPnRuY6
You will also need some trim removal tools if you don't have them already. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8GHB7O?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
You will also need a deep 10mm socket like this and a long extension for the nuts inside the wheel wells. TEKTON 14191 3/8-Inch Drive by 10 mm Deep Socket, Cr-V, 6-Point https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NY6RBY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jCsiAb5EZJ4V3
here's Mopar's instruction for removing the front fascia: https://www.dropbox.com/s/lxe8evqu87l517u/Front%20fascia%20removal.pdf?dl=0 It's much easier to put on the new lip with the fascia off. And I'll warn you that getting the old lip off is a bitch.
The entire job will take about 5-6 hours if you're doing it by yourself. Can cut that time in half if you have someone helping you
https://imgur.com/a/uITIE46
https://imgur.com/a/uTlyeCv
Block Tester BT-500 Combustion Leak Test Kit - Made in USA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VVBSFTF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kktXCbF2CRE2M
Might wanna grab one of these too you have to buy the test fluid ~$10 but the tool can be rented.
Not newer ones no, Ive done a 4-cyl rebuild/swap in my 78 but Im very far from a pro. Isnt dealer software expensive?
As for a headgasket tester, are you thinking of something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/Block-Tester-BT-500-Combustion-Leak/dp/B06VVBSFTF/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520003646&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=head+gasket+test
Can you give us a picture of the oil?
I would first check for combustion gasses in the coolant using one of these
Coolant in oil is super common on these engines, and the most common failure is the head gasket.
Perform a block test with this
Yes, there is. Follow the directions. The fluid will turn a particular color if exhaust gases are detected in the coolant (indicative of a failing head gasket, because it allows exhaust gases into the cooling jackets).
get a head gasket failure tester instructions are pretty clear, you sample your coolant and ad the dye, if it turns a certain color than exhaust gas is getting into your cooling system.
Had an extremely similar set of circumstances on my 2005 Civic, did the thermostat, changed the coolant, and no matter what I did I had extra pressure happening in the cooling system, it happened to be the head gasket failing on the exhaust side of the gasket.
Either take it to a shop, or buy one of these to check:
https://www.amazon.com/Block-Tester-BT-500-Combustion-Leak/dp/B06VVBSFTF
99 doesn't necessarily mean you're immune from a cracked head, but it does mean you're a whole lot less likely to fall victim to it. If combustion gasses are getting into the cooling system it could also be warped or could just be a bad head gasket. I believe most parts stores sell the kits, Autozone might even rent them. I ordered mine off Amazon iirc. Most shops should also be able to perform this test but I have no idea what they'd charge for the service.
I don't believe you can downgrade the firmware. Installing the version 70 first is a requirement for the "official" android auto. I paid $162 for the USB cables and dock ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KRPSRKH ), and $10 for the trim kit ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L8GHB7O )
I found the instructions to follow here: https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=679114
There's a link to an 'hdrive' site, find the NA firmware, put them on a USB key (16gb or smaller) and follow the instructions to the letter. It's easy.
Then find the folder for the videos of the cable install, find the closest match to yours. Also easy.
Firmware took an hour (mostly sitting and waiting). Cables took an hour in my 2018 CX-5.
Both were easy as far as anything technical I've ever done. Very easy. Just take your time, follow each step carefully.
Just installed mine yesterday and here's some tips:
Pay attention to the 2 different sized plugs when removing the bumper cover so you try putting right plug in the right hole.
Pay attention to which piece goes over/under when looking at the wheel well area so you are confident how to put the cover back on. I say this because I had one part going UNDER another and it made snapping the bumper cover back on difficult. One clip was not snapping back in until I realized I had the cover going under another piece when it should have been OVER top.
I bought some cheap auto trim piece kit that helps pulling plugs out and also plastic tools that help pop clips without scratching the paint. Here's the link to what I bought: Tresalto Auto Trim Removal Tool Kit, Set of 5 Pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8GHB7O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kpJaBb0EEWNQ9
If you don't have one of the kits to pull stuff apart I highly recommend one. It made my life a lot easier when I was working on some Tuesday. This is the one I have: Tresalto Auto Trim Removal Tool Kit, Set of 5 Pcs https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01L8GHB7O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0DpQDbP1B7G8X
I have one of these, I like it. Metal, 5 gallons, seals well, is easy to fill/pour. I got mine at Lowe's.
Eagle UI-50-FS Red Galvanized Steel Type I Gasoline Safety Can with Funnel, 5 gallon Capacity, 13.5" Height, 12.5" Diameter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Y75M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JZWyDb6G82GAE
$35 for 5gal gasoline type 1
https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-UI-50-FS-Galvanized-Gasoline-Capacity/dp/B00004Y75M/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=eagle+safety+can+5+gallon&amp;qid=1558783784&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=eagle+safety&amp;sr=8-3
Bought one of these a few years ago, great for yard equipment and the like but a total pain if you want to put gas in a car without another funnel. Anyways it's a little cheaper on Amazon:
Eagle UI-50-FS Red Galvanized Steel Type I Gasoline Safety Can with Funnel, 5 gallon Capacity, 13.5" Height, 12.5" Diameter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Y75M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LSa6Cb6J7PRR3.
I’ve got this one and have been pretty happy with it. It’s a little bit of a pain to fill - you have to remove the funnel to do so. But I have no problem when it comes to filling lawn and garden gas tanks.
https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-UI-50-FS-Galvanized-Gasoline-Capacity/dp/B00004Y75M/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=gas+can+metal+5+gallon&amp;qid=1558726693&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=gas+can+m&amp;sr=8-3
You can still get these new
Eagle UI-50-FS Red Galvanized Steel Type I Gasoline Safety Can with Funnel, 5 gallon Capacity, 13.5" Height, 12.5" Diameter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Y75M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oEi6Cb118P705
https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-UI-50-FS-Galvanized-Gasoline-Capacity/dp/B00004Y75M/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=Eagle+gas+can&amp;qid=1558744993&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3
Are these any good? I don’t like the rubber handle, because gas has a tendency of eating it up
My family has several Eagle gas cans that are many decades old and still get the job done.
I only buy those metal cans with the funnel attached (I think eagle makes them) they're expensive but save so much frustration.
Edit: these. actually not a bad price, the last time I bought one it was like $55
[FYI for the Americans here, a Stream is basically a Civic].
There should not be pressure in the system if you leave it for a few days, there should be a vacuum.
There's a test kit for combustion gasses in the coolant. Has anyone done that test? https://www.amazon.com/UVIEW-560000-Combustion-Leak-Tester/dp/B000NPDL76
Also when the car is idling and you remove radiator cap, do you see bubbles coming up thru coolant?
Right now its at about 280 k miles. Looking up online there is a combustion leak tester. What is your thoughts on it?
Also if it is blown head gasket do you think those head gasket sealers would work?
Everyone is telling me to get rid of my 5.0 but fuck that I love her!
I will look into compression test right now
edit: fixed links
these cars are notorious for blowing a head gasket, but usually do so around 130-140k. Maybe you were unlucky. It might be worth doing a combustion gas check with a kit you can get at any auto part store.
http://www.amazon.com/UVIEW-560000-Combustion-Leak-Tester/dp/B000NPDL76
I was going to suggest this below my last comment but saw your response here.
A head gasket could also leak between the cylinder and the coolant passages creating excessive pressure in the cooling system and overheating. There are kits available for testing the presence of combustion gases in the cooling system like these: UVIEW 560000 Combustion Leak Tester https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000NPDL76/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Yr.DxbRWDM302
Note that the head gasket might not be leaking both ways(cylinders > coolant, coolant > cylinders). If coolant was leaking into the cylinders, you would see white clouds of smoke from your exhaust, not water. I would assume if you saw water it would be a bad enough leak to hydro lock your engine.
Edit: Sorry for bad formatting...still learning to Reddit.
Hmmm.... I don't want to scare you, I'm obviously just another shadetree intent on saving money and learning myself.
But coolant, as it boils, shouldn't alter it's state or composition. It just boils off into steam or pressurizes the system until it literally boils out of the overflow tank..
The white/orange worries me a bit. Orange could maybe be rust related, but naggs me as dexcool gelling up.
Coolant turns thick and milky when it mixes with oil at high temperature, looks like inconsistent chocolate milk. Real terrible stuff for an engine. Gums up everything and leaves a sludge residue on most of the moving parts.
I also don't like the look of the 'floaters' in the rad fill picture, espescially if this fluid is relatively 60%-75% new. It looks (to me, from the picture) like water mixing with oil. I'd like others to look at and comment on this as well.
At this point, I would do a combustion gas leak test.
You can get a [Cumbustion Gas Leak Tester] (https://www.amazon.com/UView-560000-Combustion-Leak-Tester/dp/B000NPDL76) for under $50 there on amazon. Probably cheaper elsewhere.
The concept is simple, you pull off the radiator cap, put the tester up to the opening after you fill the tool with the included dye. Start the vehicle,
The tool then creates suction (when pressed against the radiator cap opening) and draws a bit of air through it's tube from the radiator itself.
If the dye changes color, it indicates Cumbustion gas in the cooling channels, which could indicate either a bad intake or head(s)/gaskets.
Also a major indicator that oil is also doing the chacha with your coolant.
So, how do ya feel about pulling the motor? Lol
Does it throw ANY codes?, idle/Accelerate/decelerate funny?
Depending on how vested you are in a properly running vehicle, keeping costs low, and/or preventing terrible things before they become terrible, you may just leave it and continue driving while keeping a hawk eye on gauges, sounds/smells and appropriate liquids.
Or maybe pull the oil pan and find out exactly what's going on under there..
Possibly take the car into a shop/dealer and see what they have to say.... I'm here with ya until the end either way haha.
Edit* There also is a test, a mentor once taught me,. I'd have to confirm, but it goes something like pull the spark plugs, look for obvious signs of fouling/detontion etc. Put them back. Pull each spark plug one at a time. Pour distilled water into the spark plug sleeve (threaded hole on the block.) Then you try and start the car. Theory goes that if there are any cracks in the cylinder walls, head gaskets et cet, you'll get water spewing itself from the spark plug hole you're working with. To clarify, you do the test on each spark plug separately. Also tests compression I believe. Will update when I locate my notes on the subject.
Edit* I just read the other comment, honestly, you may have a serious problem and I think you should be worried about this car ceasing to function soon.
The new presence of the milky substance, is absolutely the result of whatever* was still in the block mixing in with your radiator contents as it cycles it's way through, however I believe I recall you stating you put a garden hose up to it. This makes me think that that either the heat warped a head, or ruined a gasket seal while contracting, I also think the same happeneded to your water pump.
Only, with the intake your the heads, it's oil plumbing around where it shouldn't. Or coolant running rougue in similar fashion. It's entirely possible the sudden coolant blow was a symptom, and not the cause.
I guess some options, in the case that lady luck isn't on your team, are to save for a new car, trade this one in, or buy a harbor freight engine hoist and get ready to develop mild, temporary alcoholism and a sudden tick in the left eye.....
Coolant pressure test, exhaust gas chemical test (like this) or a cylinder leakdown test would be the way to check that. Unless you overheated the car, I would be amazed if you really had a head gasket failure though. Head gasket failures are very rare in the VW world.
UVIEW 560000 Combustion Leak Tester https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000NPDL76/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sxjVDbMXN8XFW
Something like that. Or take it to a mechanic and they can test it for you. Might be cheaper idk.
There is a chemical test for exhaust gasses in the coolant. That is probably the best test. This is the tool. https://www.amazon.com/UView-560000-Combustion-Leak-Tester/dp/B000NPDL76
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A cylinder leak down tester is an option too. Although you don't really need to do the leak down test. You may be able to just use your compression tester hose and put 100 psi in the cylinder from your air compressor. If the head gasket is leaking into the water jacket, you will get bubbles in the coolant.
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You could do a coolant system pressure test, but that won't really tell you that much. You already know it is leaking.
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Does that bike have a weep hole on the water pump body? Any signs of coolant in the weep hole?
Yuck. That sound like it might be burning Coolant. Might be the intake gasket. My friends Pacifica did the same thing, ran bad when cold and white smoke. Then would be fine. Well one day the intake gasket completely blew and it chugged to a stop. It also could be a damaged head or blown head gasket. I would buy this, it's really easy to use
I have this bit set you can do almost anything with it
Neiko 10029A Security Bit Set, Cr-V 100-Piece Set https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000O5XDOG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2r-kDbV56T3J4
You wanna get this
http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-100-Piece-Security-Bits-Storage/dp/B000O5XDOG/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1311238416&sr=1-2
That will do nearly everything, also get a bit extender if you need them a bit longer.
*edit, just noticed the bottom post had a similar set.
BLACK+DECKER BDCS20C 4-Volt MAX Lithium-Ion Cordless Rechargeable Screwdriver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TM2T9C2?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Neiko 10048A Security Bit Set, Chrome Vanadium Steel | 100-Piece Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000O5XDOG?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-10048A-Security-Vanadium-100-Piece/dp/B000O5XDOG
Here is the set I have. Not sure how they last cause I haven't used them all too much but it's cheap so I'm sure it's worth it for light usage
You probably got downvoted for recommending Craftsman...
I think Craftsman is just fine for an amateur - especially someone who's asking for advice on what to put in their toolbox.
There are some things you can go even cheaper on - Harbor freight sockets are good to have, as are their box wrenches. Anything that requires gripping (vice grips, pliers, etc.) I buy the best I can afford - cheap stuff will just strip itself and whatever you're trying to remove. Irwin (the original Vice Grip) makes good stuff for the money, IMO.
I really, really like this set from Craftsman for my truck - add a few types of pliers, channel locks, breaker bar, this cheapo bit set, hammer, magnetic pick up too, flashlight (a headlight is even better, especially on the side of the road), safety glasses, gloves, wire brush, electrical tape, duct/gaffer's tape, teflon tape and you have the ready for damn near anything box.
you know, they have these on machine control cabinets in factories. when we need to get in (and don't have our security bit set) we just take a flathead screwdriver and wedge it in. that pin in the middle breaks right off. then a normal allen, hex, or torx wrench works. most of the time factory maintenance has already done this to all their cabinets...
i GUESS if you bought better quality screws it might bend instead of break, but i've never seen it fail.
If you're running tubeless you probably should be running sealant in your tires. Fat tires are pretty thin skinned and puncture easily in my experience. Stans, Orange, Slime are all popular brands.
If you get a hole that won't seal there are plug kits like this that can be installed from the outside, or patches like these that install on the inside.
These are also a good way to patch a slashed tire.
You can always get a tire thumper and just say that you are overly compulsive about checking your tire pressure. They work a lot better for self-defense in confined spaces, as well.
https://www.amazon.ca/RoadPro-RPTT-1-Assorted-Wooden-Thumper/dp/B001JT5CFY/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=tire+knocker&amp;qid=1566673197&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=Tire+knock&amp;sr=8-5
> lug wrench.
Or how about the trucker tire pressure gauge most truckers keep handy.
Its called a tire thumper.
How do you know it's the valve cores thats been removed? Do you see a gaping hole in the valve stem? If so order some of these and get a pump
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0020T17J2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_l8qnDb5Z3SB36
So is that needle thing the valve stem core? And i use a tool such as this?
Is this short little video all i need to do? Been seeing some videos where they "break the bead" of the tire, do i need to do that? Or is that for replacing the entire valve stem, not just the valve stem core?
I just want to expand to the flat tire idea I've seen elsewhere in this thread. All tires use a valve stem to let air in and out, in the mechanic world when you change tires you use a little tool that takes the valve out of the stem, meaning all the air comes out and there is no way to put any back in without replacing the valve with the same tool.
Point is, you can empty every tire in under 1 minute, and he can't just fill them back up since the entire valve is missing. If done at the right time this can wreak havoc on his life, and be expensive if he has to call for a tow or similar. And since most people don't realize the valve can come out, he will most likely be forced to pay a tow and repairs. Rinse and repeat as often as you want to fuck with him.
The tool itself is cheap as hell too. Here's a link for $2 on Amazon. Though you may be able to find one similarly priced at a local auto shop.
Slime 20088 4-Way Valve Tool with 4 Valve Cores https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0020T17J2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jeNyCbYMVC0C9
valve core tool
A) no.
B) You need to remove the core with a tool (cheap and sometimes is even included in a package of slime).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0020T17J2/ref=pd_aw_fbt_263_img_3?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=64QC8J4C79C9N81712GD
C) Check the clearance you have. Different manufacturers sizes do not always fit the same. I have Schwalbe 40's that fit where a Kenda 40 does not. You can measure the gaps and go from there. Your bike manufacturer may have suggested sizes as well.
Edit: formatting
Or they leave it where its at, walk/bus/uber to the store and pick up a valve stem tool with valves for a few bucks and a portable compressor (a mini bike pump also works, but takes longer) most insurance covers at least one tow a year, so they could even get it towed to a gas station next to one of those stores to air the tire up after installing the valve stems. But most tow trucks will have a portable compressor and it would just hit your roadside assistance. Definitely under the $500 deductible and an inconvenience, and I do appreciate you advocating against slashing of tires. But it's not too hard to replace valve stem issues.
That probably is the most feasible solution. My only question with that is if I use an inverter like this, can I gut it and remove the fan? Or will passive cooling not be sufficient for long-term use at 5 watts?
The size of the overkill inverter was part of the reason I was looking for a different way to go about this.
http://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-inverter-motolora-blackberry-notebook/dp/B003Q54V88/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1345151771&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=cigarette+lighter+outlet+converter This may open you up to even more!
I ordered this one from deal extreme that should work. It seems, to have the right specs, but has not yet arrived. I expect to have it this week.
http://s.dealextreme.com/search/146751
This ships from Hong Kong, so be patient if you order, but I have made dozens of orders through DX over the years and they are great.
Alternatively, you can buy a small inverter and plug your wall charger into it. This is what I did on a week long road trip last week and it worked great even though it is a little hokey to convert DC to AC and then back to DC.
Mine is about 7 years old, but this one from Amazon has a 2.1 amp USB port as well as the AC outlet. Shop around, but this is the popular one that showed up in an Amazon search.
http://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-inverter-motolora-blackberry-notebook/dp/B003Q54V88/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1345467162&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=inverter
I have a newbie question!
I am looking at doing a 2 6v batteries system along with solar. I would like to try to stay away from an inverter if possible, but have a laptop and electric toothbrush I need to charge. Would a simple dc inverter do the job?
Or even a simple power inverter. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003Q54V88/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
You can buy something like this and only use the gamepad on you car
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003Q54V88/
Are either one of these the right product?
The water reservoir is made out of plastic (I believe), but the first one is specially for wet use and the second one is more geared towards different types of plastics moreso than the first one.
Not sure what to pick. What do you suggest?
Taking the disc in/out of the clips is going to put pressure on that spot. The disc spinning on the spindle inside the cube can put pressure on that spot. It could easily spread.
I cannot see the other side obviously but it looks extremely close to the data section of the disc.
The crack can be "welded" using something like this epoxy. It will not be a pretty fix but it will prevent it from spreading. Doing this will reduce the value of the disc though so; a trade-off?
If it were me. I would contact the seller and tell them what you have found. Most reasonable sellers will work with you on either a discount or a refund. If the discount is large enough it may be worth just keeping as-is.
Could you use something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/JB-Plastic-Weld-Fast-setting-Reinforced/dp/B003S2E4UE ?
Then potentially sand down, there will be a blemish - but it won't but a big crack instead
What kind of case and what kind of switch? Do you have a picture? Are you sure you need a plastic filler and can't use something like a rubber moulding?
There are a number of epoxies and putties like auto body repair kits that you can buy that could do what you want, but most require careful application, then sanding and painting so you can get it flush.
I think this one could be a general purpose one to look at and work with.
Use expoxy putty like J-B Weld Plasticweld epoxy putty https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8237-PlasticWeld-Plastic/dp/B003S2E4UE/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=Plastiweld&amp;qid=1574710414&amp;sr=8-2. I used it before to fix a cracked garbage bin. It dries tough and quite sturdy. Although keep in mind, when it is dried/hardened, the color is white.
The brace on my 37 tall broke during a move, so I used jb weld and a thin strip of plexiglass to reconnect and brace the brace. Sort of a braceception type situation.
Here is a picture of what I'm working with. The picture of the hole is near the bottom of the album.
I was thinking of using bondo or something like this.
Of the two, which is better?
THD is total harmonic distortion, basically if it's over a certain point it begins to affect the sound quality.
The easiest option for power is a standard lead acid battery, they're a bit heavy and large but are also safe and cheap.
Here's an example.
And because they are standard you could use a small car charger to charge it up like this one.
If the bike is going to sit for months at a time, get a tender, but you should be able to find a good one for $20 USD or so. They all charge the battery the same way to the same 12V+ level, no matter what brand. I bought one from Black and Decker for $20 USD since I now have two bikes and one sits for longish periods.
IMO, any and all of the "power stations" are overpriced.
It's just a battery...in the case of most of the "power stations", it's not even a very good one for its task.
You could :
Find a 35Ah (twice the capacity) deep cycle (superior technology for what you're using it for) battery for about $30
Buy a nice red LED flashlight for $5-$10
Throw together a power distribution panel with whatever types of plugs you like for $20-$30 or so.
Finally, for our purposes, any reasonable 12V battery charger will do.
Now you've got twice the capacity, all the same gadgets, customized hookups that suit your needs, and you've spent $50 less. :)
First, check to make sure the battery connection is tight; second, check to make sure battery has a charge; lastly, do you have fuel? When the bike is parked, keep it on a trickle charger. Attach a pigtail to your battery so you hook it up easily when you get home every night. If you're getting a click-click-click when trying to turn it over, it's probably the battery. I bought this trickle charger a while back and haven't been sorry at all. It also comes with a pigtail. Good luck.
I have a couple of these but was looking for something more "integrated" or internal to a project box.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051D3MP6/
First off, whoever said there isn't a drain on the battery could easily be wrong. Cold temps dont drain batteries, it just reduces the battery's potential output current. A cold battery cant put out as many amps as an equally charged warm battery. If there is a drain it can be really hard to find, you basically need to monitor the drain on the battery while disconnecting one thing at a time to see what makes the drain on the battery drop down to where it should be. Try turning on the headlights for a few minutes before trying to start the car, if the problem is that the battery is too cold to push the amperage you need to start, that might warm the battery up enough to start the car.
if the headlight trick doesn't cut it, you might want to get a battery charger, it will continuously trickle-charge the battery so it stays fully charged throughout the winter. I would ultimately recommend that you find someone who knows how to diagnose battery drains, but this could be a decent way to handle things in the meantime.
here's a cheap one I found on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051D3MP6/ref=emc_b_5_mob_t
You're good on the kickstand, just roll the bike forward a few inches every few weeks so the tires are not always resting on the same spot all winter. Also, you can pick [this Black and Decker] (https://www.amazon.com/Decker-BM3B-Battery-Charger-Maintainer/dp/B0051D3MP6) tickle charger up for $20. If you don't have the $23 to spend to get a trickle charger, well you mentioned Christmas gifts. Ask for one and wait another 25 days.
I'd be nice to configure it to go directly to the Torque app, but unfortunately, I have not found a way to do that with the MeMOPad. It'd probably be possible if it were rooted, but I haven't found a root method for it yet.
For power, I usually just let it run off the battery, but I have an extendable USB cord that I can run up to the tablet if needed.
Here's the OBDLink MX scan tool.
I need this for my ST too. Is this the right scan tool or is there a better, more affordable one now? I found this in an older post.
OBDLink 426101 ScanTool MX Bluetooth: Professional Grade OBD-II Automotive Scan Tool for Windows and Android - DIY Car and Truck Data and Diagnostics https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006NZTZLQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gQItDbES1S7ET
https://www.amazon.com/ScanTool-426101-OBDLink-Bluetooth-Professional/dp/B006NZTZLQ/
OBDLink MX Scan Tool
Arkon Windshield Mount(Works much better than I thought it would)
Ellipsis 8 Tablet
I use this.
Here is a walk through on how to use forscan. It’s a great tool to use.
Bluetooth - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NZTZLQ
A little pricey, but it was pretty much guaranteed to work - and for my money/time I was willing to drop the coin.
ITs actually pretty easy. I have a 2012 chevy volt and you can trigger the remote start with this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NZTZLQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1C2436WDJ39HA&amp;psc=1
It is possible to remote start a lot of new cars over OBD2 ASSUMING it has onstar module. Onstar doesnt need to be active, but the module needs to be there
Here's the diagram I made up when I was doing the wiring
http://i.imgur.com/iTDrNh5.png
It wasn't too hard. I basically bought the plug for my car's existing wiring harness and wired the amp to that, used RCA cables to hook the amp (http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B43LKV0) up to the DAC (http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KW2YEI)
On the other side, I got this cable: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MAJTTYC and cut off the male USB end, which I wired to a step-down (http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BWLP88A) on one side and the 12v switched power on the other side. Then I just plugged in the tablet to the micro USB and the DAC to the female USB.
I don't have any pictures of the piece of wood method, but basically, once I pulled out my old headunit, there was a hole in the dash. I stuck the amp and DAC into the hole and cut a piece of wood big enough to cover the hole with a hole through it for the power wire to pass through for the tablet. The tablet itself is sandwiched between that piece of wood and the plastic bevel of the dash with a bit of foam padding.
I'm not a hardware hacker, and had never done any car audio, and I had no problems figuring it out. (though I did kill my battery a couple tiems because I had the amp hooked up to the regular 12V line instead of the switched line, so it stayed on and drained the battery till I got that sorted)
I didn't bother with FM radio since I never listened to it anyway. I can't say I regret it, though I do wish that somewhere in there, I had an aux line so I could hook up a phone easily, but that's only so my wife could play stuff off of her iPhone.
Night driving is fine, but that might depend on your car. I just use the auto brightness, and I have a solid black background for the tablet, so if it's too bright, I can just minimize the app, though I don't usually have to do that. During the day, it's bright enough to see fine, but that may depend on your car layout.. in mine, there's no glare because the screen is vertical in the center of the dash.
Finally, I also have a blutooth OBD2 reader (http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NZTZLQ) hooked up which displays some gauges for stuff like MAF, RPMs, Gas usage, etc.
If your buying a volt this is what you want, it gives the ability to use apps like myvolthold and myvoltlifetime, apps made by a developer in the community. Also myvoltstar which is damn near an onstar replacement.
Link to Scantool OBDlink MX
This is the OBD scanner recommended by the Dev himself. It gives you more info for GM and Ford products then any other tool. You can read more at gm-volt.com
These apps are only available on android, but that won't stop you from buying a cheap-o prepaid phone and taking advantage of them.
thanks for your reply, after a little reading it seems like I can buy a 20ish$ OBD code scanner and plug it right into my car and it will show me the error code that's triggering the CEL and then I can have a good understanding of what's wrong. Does that sound correct?
Here's one I was looking at https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007XE8C74/ref=sxbs_ktp-hero_tr_2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_p=3534580262&amp;pd_rd_wg=uKQxz&amp;pf_rd_r=BBVVSJGBH52KF1WSEDXT&amp;pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-bottom-slot&amp;pf_rd_t=301&amp;pd_rd_i=B007XE8C74&amp;pd_rd_w=dvjDn&amp;pf_rd_i=obd2+scanner&amp;pd_rd_r=26c51c71-7792-430b-bcb7-610ff86f1c72&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1524224619&amp;sr=2
Seems like it can also clear the CEL.
I'm new to the car game so trying to learn and do as much as I can on my own. Around here mechanics and dealerships are notorious for playing you especially when they sense you're a newbie. It seems like to me everything is pretty easy to do on your own, even with some youtube videos changing your own brake pads doesn't seem to difficult.
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Autel AutoLink AL319 OBD2 Scanner Automotive Engine Fault Code Reader CAN Scan Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007XE8C74/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_6-JhDb94A6D6C
I ordered my own [obd code reader](http://www.Autel.com/ AutoLink AL319 OBD II & CAN Scan Tool https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B007XE8C74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_URbTCbT4J3KBS) and I will let you know the code in a few days!
OBD 2 over Wifi
The app is "Rev", but I've also been fiddling with "DashCommand".
https://www.amazon.com/ieGeek-Wireless-Diagnostic-Scanner-Adapter/dp/B00B3K2X4M/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467249895&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=obd+2+wifi
It will work with any obd2 device, but not guaranteed. I was able to get everything but security and another module to code with mine. I'm able to diagnose and clear codes so I'm happy with it.
If it were only as easy as pulling a code..
I picked up an ELM 327 from Amazon 3 years ago and it's served my purposes fairly well (aside from connection lag in iOS), but it can't read or reset codes for anything but the ECM. I pop down to the parts shop to look at BCM codes.
link: https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Diagnostic-Scanner-Adapter-Windows/dp/B00B3K2X4M/ref=pd_sim_263_3?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=D9PVMM5GYATA4CGQ6ACV
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B3K2X4M/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_AtkFub0NPCXN4
This is the one I have. It's prime-able, there are also ones not. There are a bunch of other ones too. But I have been happy with this one. The app I use is called Torque, there is a free version and a paid version.
If you're interested you can buy an OBD scanner for ~$10 that bluetooths to your phone and read the code. It might give you some insight to why it's triggering the check engine light. I have this one, but you can get them even cheaper.
The price went up, but this is the one that I bought. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B3K2X4M/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1425909327&amp;sr=1&amp;keywords=wifi+adapter
iPhone's use wifi-adapters, while androids use Bluetooth.
Here is what your looking for.
https://imgur.com/a/HFUgH
$16 on Amazon right now.
ieGeek WiFi Wireless OBD-II Mini ELM327
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B3K2X4M
EDIT: Fixed Amazon mobile link.
I'm using this $35 one from Amazon and OBDFusion on iOS. I sprang for the optional IAP Ford code pack to read the specific codes for the FiST that AccessPort owners can monitor. $55 all in, and worth it since both items will work in any car.
Depends a bit on if you're on Android or iOS. iOS used to require one that used wifi but android worked with bluetooth. The adapter has to be version 2.1 compliant which most are not. This seems to be the recommended one per the app description: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QJRYMFC/ref=psdc_15707381_t1_B0755N61PW
Sure. This is the exact one I bought.
LELink Bluetooth Low Energy BLE OBD-II OBD2 Car Diagnostic Tool For iPhone/iPod/iPad https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QJRYMFC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_46GLzbYEMWG80
> Do you think the one with 48000 miles has DC fast charge?
There is no way to speculate about either of them without actually looking at the car. If you can call the dealer and get them to post a picture of the charging port, that's the best way. And whatever you do, make sure to double-check it yourself before signing anything.
I bought this OBD reader, it works with TorquePro and LeafSpy, and is on Amazon Prime, at least in my area. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QJRYMFC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Be wary of the really inexpensive ones. A lot of manufacturers have been keeping the model# and Amazon listing the same, but changing to a cheaper, less compatible chipset. In your link, people in 2015 and earlier say it work with Leaf. Some from in 2016-2018 say it doesn't.
I got burned on a different $10 model of these where the reviews said "Works with Leaf", and it didn't anymore.
This was the one I ended up getting that works: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QJRYMFC/
Here's the one I use:
Foseal Bluetooth OBD2 OBD Scanner Check Engine Light OBDii Bluetooth Car Diagnostic Scan Tool for Android Devices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T5G53ZM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PYLIAbY3N8HYE
It's pretty cheap, and it works well with my r56.
If you have a smartphone just buy a scan tool off amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Foseal-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Android-Windows/dp/B00T5G53ZM/ and use the app torque. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque&amp;hl=en
White smoke, or blue smoke?
Check your oil- does it look like a milkshake? If so, you probably have a bad head gasket. No Bueno.
If not, monitor your oil usage- 'like crazy' means different things to different people.
For the CEL, get yourself a bluestooth OBD2 reader, and the free version of Torque. It can tell you a lot.
You can get an ODBII scanner for less than $20 that works on Android btw. [OBDii Bluetooth Car Diagnostic Scan Tool] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T5G53ZM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_AR6Zzb4ZQAC1V)
Clean your O2 and MAP sensor. Next guess would be something related to the fuel/air system. Buy an OBDII reader off amazon for a few bucks and read the code when you get it next. You can leave these plugged in and access it on the side of the road through your phone.
Last guess would be limp mode, but I really doubt it and if I'm not mistaken this limits you to 4500.
Thx for the info guys, I was actually thinking of this: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00YVHGTBM?psc=1
Anyone tried it?
Change those settings with Carista OBD2: https://www.amazon.com/Carista-Bluetooth-Adapter-iPhone-Android/dp/B00YVHGTBM/
>What carries a subscription?
The Bluetooth plug - Amazon comes with a Free and PAID plans. As I have not used one - I'm not sure what features come free. At £30+ for the dongle - it could be an expensive profile :)
Don't want to spend too much but will this one be any good? Carista OBD2 Bluetooth Adapter, Scanner and App with Dealer Level Technology https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00YVHGTBM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_iABNDbYM2D9NB according to their website my A3 8V 2017+ face-lift is supported. ODB Eleven Standard is 3x more expensive
damn that sounds slick, I ordered a Carista in hopes that it will work for what I needed it for. I've seen some of the features available and it seems very similar, so hopefully it offers the option for my audio. It has a 1 month free trial for the app, but 40$ a year. Hopefully I can setup the features I want and avoid the cost
Worst case scenario I just return it and do it via a legit vagcom cable, or just have them fix it next time I need to bring it in.
Carista OB2 reader
This is the only way I know how.
This little thingy lets you do all sorts of awesome settings you can’t get to in the head unit
[OBD II Engine Code Scanner] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G5EA74I/ref=gbps_img_m-7_759e_1734342c?pf_rd_p=70acffa0-6735-44b1-b69d-ab83e4d3759e&amp;pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-7&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_i=13887280011&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=G2TTZ9G4FX9E7PDE2W37)
here ya go: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G5EA74I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zm14BbNPB1NZP
There are a couple on amazon I'm thinking about. Would like to keep it under $50.
Deciding between this ANCEL AD310, and this ANCEL AD410. Either one seems to fit my pretty basic needs for a scanner...
You can pull the check engine light codes yourself. Buy an OBD scanner like this. If it's gas cap related, you can reset the CEL yourself.
https://www.amazon.com/ANCEL-AD310-Enhanced-Universal-Diagnostic/dp/B01G5EA74I
https://www.amazon.com/ANCEL-AD310-Enhanced-Universal-Diagnostic/dp/B01G5EA74I/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3J0UG99B3OY3T&amp;keywords=obd+scan+tool&amp;qid=1572484850&amp;s=automotive&amp;sprefix=obd+sc%2Cautomotive%2C222&amp;sr=1-5
ANCEL AD310 Classic Enhanced Universal OBD II Scanner Car Engine Fault Code Reader CAN Diagnostic Scan Tool - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G5EA74I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mAcQCbEX9TYAK
Car Repair PSA- For everyone here that is a car repair novice, get a diagnostic code reader. You can get one for $50.00. You plug it into your car, follow the instructions, write down the codes that appear, look them up in the including manual, and you know where to start. Even if you can't repair it yourself, give the mechanic the codes you found and they'll think twice before scamming you because you already know the possible problems.
My truck started running rough last year. Engine light came on. Checked the codes, googled a little, replaced the gas cap for $13.00 and the problem was solved. The gas cap wasn't air tight anymore and was letting air in and was screwing up the air to fuel mix and making it run rough. A mechanic could have told me almost anything and I would have just paid him to fix it.
https://www.amazon.com/ANCEL-AD310-Enhanced-Universal-Diagnostic/dp/B01G5EA74I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525374298&sr=8-1&keywords=code+reader
edit- added that they're cheap
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G5EA74I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I have that. But it says no stored codes.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01G5EA74I/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499231274&amp;sr=8-6&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=obd2&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41vF137GMsL&amp;ref=plSrch
Would this stuff be ok?
I bought the cheap one and it works fine. Gives me the data I need and can obviously clear codes.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G5EA74I
Anytime you clear the codes on your car it takes time for the system to reset itself and calibrate to show that it even exists. The best way to find out is to get a cheap code reader on Amazon and find out what it is you're failing. For me I got a new Cat on my car and it failed. I drove it 50 miles at 70mph and the next day it passed fine.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G5EA74I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This is the one that I use, be sure to NOT clear your codes, just make sure you're checking the I/M readiness.
There's no reason to freak out about it, just figure out if there's a bad sensor or something and get it fixed.
Would this allow me to keep my Asus laptop charged on a long road trip? https://www.amazon.com/Foval-Power-Inverter-Converter-Charger/dp/B01H2XD2DY/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510852401&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=portable+laptop+charger
I don't know what model it is but it has a i7 2.4 ghz CPU and a 745M gpu
A car?
https://www.thecpapshop.com/shielded-dc-cord-for-cigarette-lighter-socket
is the adapter you need, you can probably get it from where you bought the CPAP machine. DO NOT use something like https://www.amazon.com/Foval-Power-Inverter-Converter-Charger/dp/B01H2XD2DY as it causes the battery to drain much quicker.
Probably will be easier to do what you want to purchase whatever standard IP cam you like and use a power inverter to power it
https://www.amazon.com/Foval-Power-Inverter-Converter-Charger/dp/B01H2XD2DY
The tent is technically a 4 man, though I have a 6 man that the mattress fits in a bit better. It uses a regular wall outlet, but the back of my truck has one. You can easily get an adapter though that would allow you to use your car's lighter outlet. Something like this.
For cars, regular nebulizer and this.
I don't have a purely portable nebulizer though.
Another option: Just get whichever 12VDC or 120VAC one your prefer, then get the appropriate converter/inverter to use it with the other connection. Plus, then you can also use the converter/inverter for other devices as well.
https://www.amazon.com/Converter-HOTOR-110-220V-Cigarette-Adapter/dp/B01LX5LRP9
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H2XD2DY
You can get red coolant from rock auto Aisin brand. It’s about $17/gal once you factor in shipping.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,2000,land+cruiser,4.7l+v8,1364688,cooling+system,coolant+/+antifreeze,11393
Get a radiator funnel too: https://www.amazon.com/EPAuto-Radiator-Coolant-Filling-Funnel/dp/B01I40ZQWE/ref=sr_1_2?crid=O3EOMER7NC1J&amp;keywords=radiator+funnel+fill+kit&amp;qid=1562897989&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=radiator+fu%2Caps%2C164&amp;sr=8-2
I like this product or similar bleed funnel
For a casual user instead of Lisle can I save $10 by going with cheaper:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I40ZQWE/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0
The thermostat location probably won't move much between model years especially if it's the same engine type. Either way, just watching a couple videos on replacing thermostats on ANY car will teach you enough to find yours - it's probably right at the end of the lower radiator hose.
Did I say "filter" ? Sorry, I meant "funnel". And no, you don't have to have one. You can effectively burp the car without it, the funnel just makes it much easier. . You definitely need to burp it well though, if you don't get all the air out you'll have cooling issues. Sure you can reuse the existing coolant, just be careful to trap it all in clean containers and keep it clean while you work.
But now, let's talk about your car for a bit as your Dad may be jumping to conclusions a bit. First of all, can you really carefully describe what the issues with your inside heat is ? Does air come out, but not the right temp? Or does no air come out ? Does the car take a really long time to warm up ? Or does it overheat ?
FYI the thermostat's job isn't to control a temperature of something like a house thermostat. It's basically an off/off valve that prevents coolant from circulating until the car has warmed up. Once the car has warmed up to operating temperature, the coolant hits a certain temperature, this prompts the thermostat to open up and let the coolant circulate which keeps the car at that temperature. It's not a thermostat like "set the inside air to warm".
Are you buying it pre-mixed? If not, be sure to get a gallon or two of distilled water from the grocery store to mix with the antifreeze. Otherwise, calcium and other minerals in tap water can (over time) increase wear on the engine and seals.
You can then reuse that water jug to store and transport some of the coolant. If you have an old milk jug or maybe some half gallon liquor bottles, that should be enough to hold it all. You could even buy a couple other water jugs and just pour them out. They're only like 88 cents each.
Also, don't forget to burp the air out of the coolant once you've refilled it. I know its extra money but one of the funnels makes the job a lot cleaner and easier. I'd consider buying one if I were you.
Replace the water pump and metal tube that comes off it. It's cheap and if the coolant is brown then the bearings have almost certainly been damaged.
Also, get one of these. It makes filling and burping so much easier.
So much easier just to use this tool https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01I40ZQWE/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494689437&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=coolant+bleeder&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41IHCadLjXL&amp;ref=plSrch
I used to jack the front of the car up to try to raise the radiator, but I bought a kit for filling cooling systems. Actually works pretty good
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01I40ZQWE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491394577&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=spill+proof+funnel&amp;psc=1
It looks like the new one you linked to purports to be a direct swap-in replacement for the stock unit.
However, they also say to send them a picture of your existing unit so they can confirm compatibility; so maybe do that.
Edit: with Amazon's return policies being so good, you could also just give it a shot.
Edit 2: I just realized you might have been asking about the actual install process. It shouldn't be too bad. Here's a video I found detailing the process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M-UEH_RkRTA
You'll want to get a set of trim removal tools like this: https://www.amazon.ca/Tresalto-Auto-Trim-Removal-Tool/dp/B01L8GHB7O/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2A3H5I2OJVFU6&keywords=trim+removal+tool&qid=1565547229&s=gateway&sprefix=trim+remo%2Caps%2C165&sr=8-5
The only tool you should need aside from that is a #2 Philips (maybe JIS? but Philips should work) screwdriver.
um, yes?
someone posted earlier today about a new subaru with a chip-key getting boosted - that takes a lot of planning and skill, so it's not unreasonable to assume that a theft ring in search of a specific plate is going to have the equipment necessary to accomplish their goal.
sorry to break up your mediocre brag-fest about how awesome it is that you have tamper-resistant screwheads on your license plate though - i didn't realize it was important to your self-image.
edit: $11.95 for those wondering at home
Damn not even a tire thumper?
http://www.amazon.com/RoadPro-RPTT-1-Thumper-19-Inches-Assorted/dp/B001JT5CFY
Buy one of these http://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-inverter-motolora-blackberry-notebook/dp/B003Q54V88/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1347119760&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=car+plug
It will let you charge a laptop or whatever in your car.
For something small like that, I would def look into getting a power converter like this for your car, assuming you'll have one at your camp. Just hook up an extension cord and you're gucci
12v 18ah battery, 150W inverter (could go lower), and a charge controller for the battery that can get attached to the cig lighter (which should only have power when the car is on)
Block Tester BT-500 Combustion Leak Test Kit - Made in USA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VVBSFTF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wCTHDbVV6NPNJ
I use this one. Works like a charm.
No contex. Self install, pretty normal post in the sub reddit.
Tresalto Auto Trim Removal Tool Kit, Set of 5 Pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8GHB7O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_j0A9BbCR2Y5GC
Your just a moron bud, this is pretty BASIC knowledge
No, I plug in the code reader I have into the car and it tells me what the issue is right away so I know how urgent it is. That said, if your car's check engine light is on, there's almost always a reason for it and you shouldn't ignore it! :)
Here's one for $35~ plus tax. But theres a few cheaper available: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G5EA74I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_T8PUCbA5Z3GE1
Hey, they can do it, but then what? You're really going to leave your car unattended after jacking a spot I'm waiting for? That's not a great idea if you like your car and want to preserve its present condition.
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FWIW, one of these comes in handy for removing the valves from someone's tires. No damage, just a major inconvenience.