Best ball joint & tie rod tools according to redditors
We found 38 Reddit comments discussing the best ball joint & tie rod tools. We ranked the 23 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 38 Reddit comments discussing the best ball joint & tie rod tools. We ranked the 23 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
It doesn't like this tool would work for your situation, but some sort of [Ball Joint Separator] (https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-3916D-Universal-Joint-Separator/dp/B003YVWHOE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1519659123&sr=8-3&keywords=ball+joint+separator) might be worth picking up.
Assuming you're talking about square taper, my favourite way is to use what I call the pickle fork. Remove the crank bolts first! Slide it behind the crank arm and smack it with a 4lb sledge hammer. I wouldn't use this method on a crankarm I wanted to save but it doesn't always damage the crankarm. I find it best to the bike upside down on the ground, keeps the hammer away from the rest of the frame.
This is the Shankly set, but it shows as currently unavailable. I’m sure other people make a similar set though.
Shankly 3 Piece Ball Joint Removal Tool and Ball Joint Separator Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0718SQWRW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JMSDDbAN4P16M
This is the other set (looks like the price has gone up a good bit since I bought it)
UTOOL Quick Change Interchangeable Ball Joint Remover Puller Tool Set Tie Rod End Separator Remover Puller 20-30mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BHH1RQ5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4QSDDb7ZER9YX
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-48300-Push-Rod-Remover/dp/B00DBMLY8G
It could still be the intake gasket. Your mechanic does not under stand basic science or cars for that matter. When you car cools off the pressure in the cooling system drops and creates a suction so it pulls in oil from the intake gasket if its bad.
I just replaced a intake gasket on a customers car and he had no signs of coolant in the oil (I bet it may have shown up on an oil analysis, but not the naked eye). After changing no oil showing up in the coolant anymore.
Also make sure to buy this tool it will save a lot of time...
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-48300-Push-Rod-Remover/dp/B00DBMLY8G
Lisle 48300
https://www.amazon.com/Mayhew-29910-Speedy-Universal-Inner/dp/B005I5GLCS/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=mayhew+tie+rod+tool&qid=1563643337&s=gateway&sprefix=mayhew+ti&sr=8-3
For anyone that works at a shop and will use it for commercial use.
I use this tool
https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W83022-Joint-Separator/dp/B002KS17N4#
The screw press I use gets the job done fast, works almost every time and doesn't damage anything so doing it with a socket, hammer, and vice to start and then escalating when it doesn't work just wastes time. This is the current version of what I use. https://www.amazon.com/OTC-7249-U-Joint-Anchor-Service/dp/B0002SRGXY Wait until you get a cap that is seized on the joint, even if you pop it out of the yoke it won't come off, even when heated. Then you have to cut the joint or cap to get it out.
If you have a puller the right size, use that. If not, some auto parts stores will loan tools for this kind of thing. I have one of these, works great.
OEMTOOLS Tools 27308 Ball Joint... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N7TJ61S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
It's pretty much a c-clamp with additional parts for proper clearances of everything. Like this. There are different kits of varying quality and number of parts to fit different vehicles.
*linked tool is for reference and not necessarily exactly what you need.
My ball joint "claw" tool...
Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-3916D-Universal-Joint-Separator/dp/B003YVWHOE/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1479163236&sr=1-3
It makes popping them out so much easier. After I failed to get the ball joint out on my old Grand Prix I went out and bought one of these things and got it out within 5 mins of opening the package.
The ballpoints are notoriously difficult to separate, you'll want to get one of these: GearWrench 3916D Universal Ball Joint Separator https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003YVWHOE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gcZ5xb1FBKMBA
We started using these:
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6297-Ball-Joint-Separator/dp/B0015PN010
It's labeled as a ball joint tool but it'll also pop out tie rod ends. Makes life far, far easier.
OTC is good stuff. Just make sure it has the cups for your application. http://www.amazon.com/OTC-7249-U-Joint-Anchor-Service/dp/B0002SRGXY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1382125556&sr=8-1&keywords=ball+joint+press
[Ebay - Sunex 2 - 9/64 ball joint socket - $16.97 +$4.95 shipping]
(http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sunex-10214-3-4-Dr-2-9-64-Ball-Joint-Impact-Socket-/390904357769?hash=item5b03b72389&item=390904357769&pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr)
[Amazon - $21.68 + possible free shipping if you don't like Ebay] (http://www.amazon.com/Sunex-10214-64-Inch-Joint-Socket/dp/B003EZZUNU/)
It took me longer to type this than it did to find them. Google is your friend.
Thanks for the quick reply, I have no problem removing the knuckle as I've done it before on a previous accord of mine. As far as labor goes, that's pretty damn cheap. The lowest I found was 270 at pep boys (ugh). I'll have to call the local Honda dealer, somehow I haven't done that yet. A few shops refuse customer brought parts as well.
If I'm unable to find an affordable place to have it done, do you think this kit would work? It says up to 2008, but looking at the knuckle diagram and mine, I'm not sure what's changed between then and 2010.
http://www.amazon.com/OTC-6529-5-Ball-Joint-Adapter/dp/B003E0RJBQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1421108120&sr=1-1&keywords=otc+honda+adapter&pebp=1421108127398&peasin=B003E0RJBQ#productDetails
Buy a ball joint separator and save yourself some headaches....
[OTC AMAZON BALL JOINT SEPARATOR] (http://www.amazon.com/OTC-6297-Ball-Joint-Separator/dp/B0015PN010/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1369198064&sr=8-1&keywords=ball+joint+separator)
Tighten it up real good. Take a hammer and tap the ball joint. BAM! It pops off. Kind of scary at first but it does the job nicely.
Btw my ball joint was a bitch to remove as it had some salt corrosion in it due to driving in snow. And compared to cheapies i've tried, this has a large opening so it fit nicely inside of my largest control arm.
THIS TOOL WILL NOT TEAR YOUR BOOTS!
This video helps. But I'd consider, at least getting these adapters, which you may be able to rent.
Reconnect the control arm to the frame, spray penetrating oil into the joint, apply downward pressure on the arm with a large prybar, and hit the side of the joint (on the steering knuckle) with a large hammer. It's important that you hold as much downward pressure as possible while hitting it with a hammer.
Or buy something like this, though you will probably still need to reconnect the other side of the arm.
Well assuming your power steering pump and gear box are working correctly then hell yeah an alignment will do that. Even if those aren’t working it should center up at the very least.
Drag link and center link are pretty easy to do if your going to tackles those, a ball joint tool similar to this can be rented for free at autozone. It makes life way easy.
https://www.amazon.com/GEARWRENCH-3916D-Universal-Joint-Separator/dp/B003YVWHOE/ref=asc_df_B003YVWHOE/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241975700326&hvpos=1o8&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14180979640211089708&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031442&hvtargid=pla-382391363739&psc=1
If you end up doing this lemme know how it worked out!
this tool made me a lot of money back when GM 3.1 engines were coming in every week for leaking intake manifold gaskets. It lets you remove and install the push rods without loosening all of the rocker arm nuts. That easily saves about an hour on the job, which really adds up over time.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-48300-Push-Rod-Remover/dp/B00DBMLY8G
My first thought was to rig something up with a fibreglass fish tape used by electricians.. Like this https://www.amazon.ca/Labor-Saving-Devices-84-240-Fiberglass/dp/B0015G9Q44
Flexible and non conductive.
So I replaced one of my knuckles years ago and I suspected something wasn't quite perfect. I usually replace pads or rotors separately as they wear out so the issue showing itself in the form of uneven thickness wearing of the rotors (commonly mislabeled as "warping"), took a long time to appear if at all. But this summer I went on a road trip and put brand new rotors and pads on at the same time, stretching the calipers/slides to their max. By the end of the trip, the front right had noticeable dust buildup and there was steering shake under braking.
I've been accumulating tools for a while so it was time to tackle this without replacing the hub.
Tools I used:
Most of my purchases were through Amazon Warehouse Deals and I paid 50% - 70% list price, some times with the help of camelcamelcamel.com
At least it's not masquerading as a precision tool.
http://www.amazon.com/Fowler-72-520-757-Economy-Brake-Rotor/dp/B000R6VTZC
Looks like this one
RamPro Ball Joint Press Service Repair Kit, Removal Tool Set, 2/4 Wheel Drive Vehicle Remover Installer Adapters – Also Used to Remove/Install Brake Anchor Pins and U-Joints (10 Pcs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MT5HA0X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xkXXzbAC362ZX
Orion Motor Tech Heavy Duty Ball Joint Press & U Joint Removal Separator Tool Kit with 4x4 Adapters, for Most 2WD and 4WD Cars and Light Trucks https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01N7CO50E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mydXCbM2DHBB7
It's probably a 2-3 hour job for a shop to do it. So you're looking at 200-300 in labour, or $100 for the torque wrench and $14 for the impact socket and $92 for the u-joint/ball joint tool.
Having the high torque spec torque wrench might be niche but you can/will use the u-joint tool if you ever do your steering stabilizer, and any other ball joint...
I used to use something like this if I wasn't replacing the joint https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-3916D-Universal-Joint-Separator/dp/B003YVWHOE/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_lp_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=KNCRDZJJ1QFV8D70J70W if I was replacing it I used a pickle fork and an air hammer.