(Part 2) Best bathroom sink & bathtub accessories according to redditors

There are actual drain repair kits that slide into the pipe, or go over the outside, without clamps. You may not have to open the cement:

https://www.amazon.com/LASCO-03-1224-WingTite-Replacement-Install/dp/B008E338FY/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

http://www.davke.com/davke-4000/

And yes, I wanted to dig up his rotting corpse and bitch-slap the crap out of him....

We use something like this at my house. Our drain is weird also but this thing works perfectly if you make sure its suctioned down well on all the sides.

https://www.amazon.com/WalterDrake-White-Sink-Drain-Suction/dp/B008E06KB6

Please, someone w/ some money, Amazon Prime Same Day this girl the following:

Bath Pillow - so, so much more comfortable.

Overflow Drain Cover - This keeps the water level high so the body feels more buoyant and is more covered.

OP, if your water heater is pretty efficient, and you don't pay for hot water, you can also consider keeping the tap always running a tiny bit so the bathwater stays high and warm, nye indefinitely. If you gauge it right, the overflow drain won't ever let it overflow and you've got nothing to lose but tension.

Wishing you comfort and coziness, OP.

I disagree with the earlier posters. Soap (and soap scum) buildup is a real thing. Hair makes it worse, but still. I occasionally have to use a plunger to clear the pipes. When they get really bad a Clog Buster does the trick.

https://www.amazon.com/Essentially-Yours-Deeper-Overflow-Drain/dp/B078RT2J2T/ref=sxin_2_ac_m_rm?ac_md=1-1-YmF0aCBjb3ZlciBvdmVyZmxvdw%3D%3D-ac_d_rm&keywords=bath+cover+spout&pd_rd_i=B078RT2J2T&pd_rd_r=7f67f146-7cd8-4136-92bb-7848f0ca24fe&pd_rd_w=4EWIe&pd_rd_wg=GJIB3&pf_rd_p=d1a6ea92-24ed-409e-8e33-97dc5a8de815&pf_rd_r=2AJ5R9MNT0KPP48R30K6&qid=1569200333&sprefix=bath+cover

But, you could, for instance protect multiple drains with one trap in the distance (potentially shared with a location that actually drains water regularly.

You could have a drop gate.

There's a product nominally for "clearing clogs" that's fundamentally a [water wheel inside the pipe] (https://www.amazon.com/PF-WaterWorks-PermaFLOW-Transparent-reducing/dp/B0021L9BXS) if you had such a water wheel deep enough, it could be turned by the weight of the water. The downside is you'd wear the gaskets and whatever it spins on eventually and you'd have less flow or a bulge at that point.

cheaper on Amazon

I bought stainless steel sink strainers off Amazon and I put them over the stand pipe to still allow overflow and prevent grain from getting through. The one I bought came with 2, and I put them both on in a cross pattern.

Also, I'm sure this goes without saying, but be careful when mashing in cause there is a gap between the grain basket and the main unit. I have had a few batches where I accidentally poured some grain between the two and I had a bad time.

Note that with even these preventative measures I still end up with some build up on the pump filter in the bottom by the end of it.

From my Amazon orders:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FH2PBS2?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

You need to get a hair catcher. There are lots of them. You can even wait till it's dry to clear it making the clearing process less gross. Here is one:
https://www.amazon.com/LEKEYE-Catcher-Strainer-Stainless-Silicone/dp/B06W2MPGZV

It's a trap!

Get a little drain cover thing

I've got these rubber ones which are great, too

They sell drains that would go the whole length of the garage with grates on them. Something like this might help

Source 1 Drainage Trench & Driveway Channel Drain with Galvanized Steel Grate - 3 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006YVE71W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2pyRBb17CQHAK

No, honestly it's so easy I just did it myself without instructions. But I can summarize what I did.

I connect my changer to my shower head pipe; takes standard pipe threads; I use a pipe-thread to hose thread adapter I got at the hardware store. Put some teflon tape on the threads to make it water tight; make sure to wrap the tape the right way so it doesn't unwrap when you screw on the adapter. Crank the hose to adapter connection to german gutentight specs so you can leave it on the hose forever. If you do the teflon tape right you can install and remove the adapter by hand and it won't leak.

I bought a 50' hose and cut off about 6 feet and used hose repair fittings to put new ends on both pieces, so I have a 6' hose and a 44' hose. I use the short section to go down from the shower head pipe to get the actual water changer thingy closer to the drain so it doesnt' spray dirty tank water all over my shower. You can skip this if you connect it to your sink. The waterbed adapter comes with a shitty plastic sink thread adapter; throw it away and get a brass one from the hardware store.

I run the long hose from the changer to the tank. At the far end of the long use I use a cheap garden hose shutoff valve and a barbed fitting to adapt hose threads to the normal vinyl gravel vac tubing.

I vacuum using just cold water. When I'm done vacuuming I pull the vac up out of the water and let the venturi suck all the dirty water out of the hose. Then I go back to the shower with my digital thermometer, run the hot water out of the tub spigot until it stabilizes, and then use the thermometer to get within a couple of degrees of the aquarium temp, I try to shoot for a couple of degrees colder rather than warmer, the thermal mass of water left in the aquarium moderates the change anyway and the heater will do it's job.

The only thing about these is they waste a lot of water by using a hydro venturi to create suction for vacuuming. You could potentially turn off the venturi and use it as a siphon, if the changer below the tank level, I don't bother on my 20g tank.

Here's somebody's writeup, I'm sure there's others

http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/diy_python.php

I bought this waterbed water changer; it appears to be the exact same one used in the Python: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FT2PUO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Look for something like this. its soft rubbery plastic so it shouldn't bother him much and is great for catching hair. They make one for the shower too.

https://www.amazon.com/SinkShroom-Revolutionary-Protector-Catcher-Strainer/dp/B01N96430F?th=1

none really. all are the same, but this one is smaller than some others(https://www.amazon.com/UH-DB213-Blaster-Pressure-Cleaner-Unclogs/dp/B01MQYPN90/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1520715375&sr=8-4&keywords=drain+blaster


also thos one has a different design than others: https://www.amazon.com/BAAM-87000-Drain-Blaster-Cleaner/dp/B00HPMPPWY/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1520715375&sr=8-5&keywords=drain+blaster

Don't get the python, get a water bed one. Its the same darn thing and it costs $4!!! lol You just need to have your own garden hose, which you can buy for cheap and get the length you want.




Stopped using that style of system a couple years ago. We now have a pond pump connected to a garden hose. We put the pump into the tank to drain the water & then we use the "python/water bed thingy to put water back in OR we just screw a garden hose onto the tap OR we use the pond pump inside a bucket in the sink to push water into the tank. For us, it really depends which floor we are working on.




The basement has the hot/cold taps for a washer leading to a Y which connects to a garden hose that goes up into the rafters. We have 1000 gallons of water to deal with, so this was best for us and it keeps the hose out of the way.




EDIT: Its the large blue piece. I bought a few at Walmart but here is an image from Amazon http://www.amazon.ca/Drain-Innomax-Waterbed-Flotation-Mattress/dp/B005XST1M2/ref=sr_1_2?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1420912780&sr=1-2&keywords=waterbed+Fill+and+Drain



I think this is the same but for cheaper http://www.amazon.ca/Rps-Dfk-Waterbed-Drain-Fill/dp/B000FT2PUO/ref=pd_sim_k_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=17Y2JJSR56YATAW2JEEB



Please note I was using Amazon Canada.

I keep seeing pictures of this kind of thing. As a long-haired girl, I encourage all other girls or boyfriends living with set girls to invest in one of these.

bought this when it was a kick starter, works like magic!

yeah something like that is what I need. That link you sent, had this on the "customers who bought this also looked at" section.


thanks!

They also make a self cleaning p-trap which is quite neat actually. I don't have any experience with them, but it's supposed to be a very good system.

Ninja edit: Amazon link also..

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-20788-Profile-Washing-Machine/dp/B00KD64Y76.

The reviews have someone with your setup using it sucessfully.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MQYPN90/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502662534&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=drain+blaster&psc=1

I used a pump-up air gun that's supposed to be used to clear a clogged drain. Took off the toilet fitting and just shot it out of the thin nozzle while high-speed shooting remotely.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079JS2M37/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They make tubs (usually referred to as "deep soak" tubs) for this purpose.

You can also get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/WBDeals-COMIN16JU039478-Bathtub-Overflow-Drain/dp/B0172HALE8 to buy you a couple of more inches, but the hole on tub may not be big enough to actually drain enough to prevent overflow.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/TRIXES-Stainless-Shower-Filter-Strainer/dp/B01DWGXIOI/ref=pd_lpo_60_bs_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HB1JB4E18HRTHMZ3461D

Just get one of these, piece of piss to empty. www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01DWGXIOI/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_apa_OKcPyb0DEDHS3

You could use an xt60 female and a male/male adapter on the charger instead to mate the two female ends.. safer but still prone to water damage etc.

Ideally you could use xt60 caps like this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01FUOFZE6/

Though personally I just use a piece of black electrical tape on the tip when not in use.

The one I have is large, flat, and is placed entirely over the drain cover. There is a silicone ring to I hold it in place. The smaller holes of the add-on cover trap hair before it gets to the original drain cover. Works well.

EDIT: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06W2MPGZV

Went online to find out whether there are coasters you could ride, first thing to pop up is an article about a tall man getting stuck on one.. :-(

One thing we installed in my best mate's (already huge) bath tub (he's only 6'8", mind) was a stop for his overflow. That would allow him to 'overfill' the bath tub to where the water would almost be at the rim of the bath (with him in it..).

Essentially this, but his was more permanent.

Get a faucet to hose adapter for a water bed. Hook it up and spray down your car. When I was a kid a guy at our apartment would do this every Friday. Wasn't until I was older that I realized this guy was a genius.

I'm pretty sure that's what ya need. Plus a garden hose and nozzle.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000FT2PUO/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1522637966&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=waterbed+fill+kit&dpPl=1&dpID=41qgeX9MJpL&ref=plSrch

Cool, you're welcome. Whenever one does work on old cast iron there's a high probability of dislodging a bunch of shit when removing old threaded fittings, ect. My house's cast iron has literally a quarter inch of rust scale/slugde on the inside. Every time anything disturbs it, it seems to throw a clot so to speak.

If you can get the drainage rate to sustain some amount of water flow, I would highly recommend a caustic or acidic cleaner, not an enzymatic cleaner. There's nothing like good, old fashioned gnarly ass chemicals. IF you can make sure it drains before the plumber has to deal with it. Otherwise you're totally right to use the enzymatic cleaner if you think it might still be sitting there when the plumber might have to deal with it.

I had a pretty darn similar situation with my upstairs sink, and what we did there was slightly risky but very effective. I had a garden hose that could reach the bathroom and so what we did was we capped off the vent stack on the roof with duct tape, and shoved the garden hose in the drain fitting in the wall. I was holding this in with a gloved hand and hand pressure, so the actual applied pressure was only as hard as I could push (maybe 20psi?) but we just pushed that clog right through. Most satisfying sound I've ever heard when it went (ca-THUUUNK).

There's actually a much nicer looking tool for doing this type of pressure assisted unclogging. It's called a clog buster. I haven't used one but what you'd do is shove it down past the vent T (so that you didn't have to tape up the vent pipe like I did) and then when you turn on the water it inflates and seals itself against the pipe, so you can successfully apply the hose pressure to the clog downstream.

Now, I will totally not take resposibility if this friggin floods your house. If you have plain threaded cast iron pipes all the way through, I don't think the risk is super high. But if there are leaded joints, they could in theory push apart with pressure. That would not be fun. So use with caution.

They do make what is called "clog-buster". ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001AJ5RNA?pc_redir=1410002965&robot_redir=1 )

However most plumbers I know would never use anything like this. Use a snake and be sure you can get it. If there's something actually blocking the pipe, the pressure could cause multiple problems, if it's not fully clogged the pressure goes past the clog usually.

I like this product. It allows me to see what is in the drain easily, and I can clear some gunk. When there is something else in the drain, it is easier to fish it out because I can see it.

https://www.amazon.com/PF-WaterWorks-PT5021PermaFLOWNever-Universal-Transparent/dp/B0021L9BXS

for an easy solution, you could go with something like this dome grate. The obvious downside to that it sticks up in the middle of your sidewalk.

A better option would be to saw off the last few inches of the sidewalk panel and add a trench drain. This would give you significantly more surface area and reduce the likelihood of clogging. I'm picturing something like this drain that I saw in an episode of Ask This Old House

Sorry in advance for the novel, unless you're into that kind of thing. Bear in mind again, this isn't professional advice by any means. I've just been researching this as we'll be planning and applying for a grant from our local sewer district very soon so I've been through a couple of courses and doing as much research as possible. In other words, I'm the most dangerous person on the internet and professionals hate me, but only because they have to fix what I've screwed up :).

We're also in the Midwest which means a good measure of rain in the spring. It looks as though you have a fair amount of roof to account for. You can use drainage guides like this to account for the ~exact amount of runoff your roof will yield during a storm. I've seen calculations where they say "take the square footage of your roof and multiply that by the number of inches rain you got and that's how much runoff you have!". It's not quite that simple as rain isn't (generally) an instantaneous figure but rather multiplied over time.

Q = (C x I x A) / 96.23 where

>Q = Storm Water Runoff (in gallons per minute, gpm)

>C = Coefficient of Runoff

>I = Rainfall Intensity (in inches per hour)

>A = Area of Drainage Zone (in square feet)

I like simple logic problems like this so if you DON'T, you can just take the square footage of your roof and multiply it by the average rainfall per rain event i.e. 600 square feet of roof x .5" rain = ~187 gallons of water :). This, in conjunction with the square footage per downspout, will give you a pretty good indicator of how much water you'll be dealing with on which parts of your property. The street is probably sloped from the center line down and you should also include your driveway and any applicable graded turf as most lawn turf isn't all that permeable in anything but the lightest misting.

Say for example your roof, driveway, street, and turf have a cumulative runoff of 500 gallons in a 1/2" rainfall. If ~200 of that comes from your roof, this is the water you can control. Depending on the number of downspouts you have in use, 2-4 50+ gallon rain catch barrels will easily soak up the 200 gallons in runoff just from your roof lines. Any overflow from those barrels can be run to that 4" pipe you mentioned which routes into the back yard.

Regarding the driveway, if you don't have them already I would look into trenched drainage systems. this would allow you to grade your driveway (per the image) from left to right so that any runoff from the street and drive routes to that pipe which runs along the side of your garage. Other than permeable pavement solutions ($$$$) there isn't much you can do with driveway runoff other than mitigate it. On that note, your 4" drain pipe may be sufficient but you can use calculators like this one to ascertain whether or not a larger 6" drain would be needed. Also keep in mind if you have silt or debris issues at the base of your drive where it meets the garage you'll need to get that addressed before you add any drains so you don't foul the pipes down stream with garbage.

Back to rain gardens. To use the 5'x20' example from my first post, a 100 square foot rain garden dug even 9" into the ground will give you ~75 cubic feet of reservoir or 100 cubic feet if you can make it a foot deep. This isn't just storage though as any plant matter you include in the garden will aid in slowing and soaking up storm water runoff. The average root depth of most turf grass is about as deep as the grass itself. However even smaller, decorative plants can have root structures many times their depth. These types of root structures will absorb an order of magnitude more runoff than turf grass and help maintain slope health of your yard (depending on the grade coming down from the street and whether or not you have erosion issues). You can either plant along side the driveway or plant parallel to the street so that the majority of the turf/street runoff is caught. Any rain garden requires an overflow which could then be tied into your driveway drain or drain on the other side of the driveway.

Since this will be a DIY scenario (as will ours) most of the cost will be in landscaping materials like plants and stone, but you can use the comparatively cheaper dry wells and rain barrels in conjunction with one another to form a kind of mesh runoff mitigation network. Say the rain barrels affixed directly to the gutters catch 200 gallons and you have a rain garden (or two or three, they don't have to be connected) which will collect another ~100. You could dig a dry well into series between the garden and the side drain to give another 50 gallon capacity or however many gallons you choose to utilize. Out of the original 500 gallon runoff (roof, driveway, street, lawn) these collection measures would 350-400 gallons not including the somewhat unquantifiable plant and root absorption as well as the driveway trench which will definitely aid in moving the water past your foundation.

Again, sorry for the novel :). Take what you need and ignore the rest. We don't have much of a grade at all in our land, but what little slope we do have near the foundation is unfortunately tilted towards the house and poorly drained at that and I'm realizing it's not going to be a simple task. There isn't one major resolution in most cases. I understand a rain garden solution isn't for everyone, but our orientations emphasized that while a metric ton of native plants is going to be more effective than fewer plants you can still get away with a modern looking landscape so your front lawn doesn't look like a prairie. Also, I would look into natural plant species as they're far more likely to thrive in your native soil and I personally prefer perennials so I don't have to replant every damn year. Feel free to PM me with any questions, or even to seek advice from a real professional :).

I ended up grabbing one of these. Should fit pretty well in my 3' x 3' but I guess I will find out. Those flood tables online are insanely priced. $200 for a tray? No thanks.

Clearly I’ve gotten myself in over my head. Why will the shoe need to be replaced? Assuming the old drain can come out, something like this can’t just be placed in where the old drain went? https://www.amazon.com/WingTite-Shower-Replacement-Installs-Entirely/dp/B008E338FY

I’ll call a professional tomorrow.

Consider this for FAE.

TerraBloom 4" Inline Duct Fan, Quiet Energy Saving EC Motor with 0-100% Adjustable Speed Controller. 160 CFM, 18W. Ventilation for Grow Tents, Odors Exhaust, Heating and Cooling Duct Booster. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JNGS2V7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gWcSDb5DQ5T3H

This for underneath the chamber.

Camco Front-Load Washing Machine Drain Pan, Protects Your Floor from Washing Machine Leaks, OD 30.5" x 34.5" x 1.64" (20786) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EOX2IRW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NXcSDbM2J1N3T

I had the same problem. I bought this pan for my washing machine: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EOX2IRW/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Lol damnn I think I’ll stick with what I have! This thing cost me $15 and by just putting something at the back to raise it up an inch or two all the water runs to the front.

Camco 20762 30"OD x 28" Washing... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EOX2KZ2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I also have two of these wire shelf things which make a perfect drain rack just high enough to slide the drain pan under

Whitmor Supreme Wide Stacking... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007MHD24?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

i was thinking about making a wood base and then using one of these http://www.amazon.com/Camco-20762-Washing-Machine-Stackable/dp/B00EOX2KZ2/ref=pd_sim_hi_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=1MNF3CVR9HV13BCE70AT with a hose to the edge and some sod on top of it? but i like your set up too

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FH2PBS2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought these from Amazon in June 2018 and they've been perfect for 20+ brews. Absolutely no rust or degradation. It's a 2 pack so I use them both in a crisscross pattern over the overflow. They're the perfect size to sit right on top of the overflow without anything holding them in place.

Try this:

High Pressure Air Drain Pump Plunger Air Power Drain Blaster Pipe Dredge Tools (blue) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JS2M37/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YwuIDbVY3SP9W