Hey so I hate to shit in on everyone else's opinions, but they're not really recommending the best gear for your dollar. /r/audiophile has a sticky on this exact subject. Basically the lowest end system they are willing to recommend is a pair of Micca MB42s . If you can spring for the 42x's, they are more than worth the 10 extra dollars. You will need an amplifier to drive them. /r/audiophile reccomends the Muse m50, but I can tell you from personal experience, a lepai 2020a+ with a slightly beefier power supply will run them just fine for half the price. These are pretty chunky speakers, but they'll blow any "pc/gaming" speakers out of the water. If you decide you'd like to go for this, I have about 30 feet of speaker wire lying around that I'd be happy to mail to you to save you the 8 bucks or so. Hope this helps, and happy listening!

Sure you can. It'll cost you $14:

https://www.amazon.com/Class-II-Transformer-Approved-MGT-2440/dp/B004VMVDTA

Have this mouse and love it. Pro-tip: buy lithium AAA batteries and use a single one with a AAA to AA adapter. Makes the mouse <100g weight; amazing for those of us with really low dpi.

Specifically I use this combination and get 100 hours + playtime on a single battery.

https://www.amazon.com/Energizer-Ultimate-Lithium-Batteries-Count/dp/B06ZYWKBRB/ref=sr_1_3?crid=RL8TO6P0PCXX&keywords=aaa%2Blithium%2Bbatteries&qid=1566184348&s=gateway&sprefix=aaa%2Blithium%2Caps%2C151&sr=8-3&th=1


https://www.amazon.com/LAMPVPATH-Battery-Adapter-Converter-adapter/dp/B07D6RDQ3S/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=aaa+to+aa+converter&qid=1566184360&s=gateway&sr=8-3

For anyone still using a Wii or Xbox, get some good Rechargeable AAs. Ikea makes some called LADDA, which are really good and pretty cheap. Don't use a cheapo charger though. I have the Opus BT-C3100 which is fantastic, but there are also cheaper ones that are good.

Same here with a converter And came with small adapters for all scenarios. Love this thing. 20+ countries 4 continents and makes you a hero at the airport where everyone is sharing one outlet.

https://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-Universal-Converter-Charging-Worldwide/dp/B01E140XWA

Tell the electrician that you want 3 to 5 30-amp 240-volt breakers installed with one L6-30R receptacle running off of each breaker. Then buy these 240 volt PDU’s and some of these C13 power cords for your rig power supplies. You’re all set.

This 240 volt setup will double your capacity and make your power supplies more efficient.

There's a few things you can check.

First, most adapters do NOT convert voltage, they simply make the plugs fit in the other hole. If you look at the 'power brick' of the device you're connecting if it has one (AC to DC converters like USB wall chargers, laptops, etc.) then they will have Input and Output sections (most will have something like "Input: 100-240V AC~50-60Hz 0.5A"). Anything like this doesn't need a voltage converter, just the outlet adapter so it fits in the hole. Hair Dryers/Curling Irons are notorious for exploding when plugged into 240V, which is why they almost all have a switch somewhere that must be set to the higher value. If you have it set to 240 and plug into 110, it just won't get hot enough. The other way around is bad news.

If you do have a voltage converter (which is highly unlikely, it would be a very expensive and heavy device. $20 on Amazon will NOT convert voltage), then it should say somewhere on it (or in the instructions) what the output is. In this case, it should have been something like 110V AC~60Hz ???A. In this case, if your device tries to draw too many amps, you can blow up the converter (or more likely your device just won't work). For example, this device has a maximum of 200W which is flirting with what some curling iron type devices use. I am having trouble imagining any situation where using a voltage converter would blow up the device connected to it, unless the converter output was set to a higher voltage.

But in general, all of that small print that is on things that plug into outlets actually has some important and useful info. As long as everything is in range, you shouldn't have any problems.

You sent it in because it stopped charging with their cable.....?



You could have just gotten an external charger like the efest luc v4 to charge the batteries.


I never use the actual cable. I always just use that charger. It's better to just get an external charger and multiple batteries. That way you can charge one battery while you use a fresh one, and you can charge up to 4 batteries at once.

Maybe [this?] (http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Control-Controller-Adjusting-Computers/dp/B016U2KXCG/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1454031693&sr=1-1&keywords=usb+audio+knob)

agreed. I got one because it was too interesting not to try out.

It is very well made, and I wanted to find it useful but it just wasn't. For most non-art actions it seemed to be a complicated substitute for a scroll wheel that you had to unhand your mouse for. The most useful function in day-to-day windows work I found was as a volume knob.

So, I ended up instead getting one of these (which is fantastic for Google Earth):

https://www.3dconnexion.com/spacemouse_compact/en/

and an actual dedicated volume knob:

https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Control-Controller-Adjusting-Computers/dp/B016U2KXCG

Much better.

I also now see they make a wireless version of the Space Mouse.

I like to use the Brainworx plugins for my mono button. Just put it on the master fader and bypass it to go back to stereo. I also have my speakers on individual power switches so I can turn one side off and flip it in mono pretty easily for a mono ref.

You're a jackass. Here is a real link to the shitty power supply.

http://www.amazon.com/Replacement-adapter-charger-Benq-Monitors/dp/B003Z6ZR5O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405051813&sr=8-1&keywords=replacement+LCD+60w+12v+5a

Happy?

Yes, it's common practice in some studios. Mostly for just cross referencing on multiple monitors, or turning on/off a sub.

There's actually a rack mount version of a power strip for that very reason.

You cannot just wire it into a 120v outlet. If you have an electric clothes dryer, that will use 240. Or an electric range. Still I wouldn't recommend you mess around with this - get help from someone who knows what they're doing. Or as someone else recommended, get a 120-240 transformer. Something like this.

Many, probably the majority, of battery portions or "mods" use removable 18650 batteries. The advantage of this is easily swappable batteries, so if one runs out of juice you can just pop in another. Also, batteries by nature degrade over time, so mods with built in batteries will eventually perform poorly if not die outright.

I'd recommend an iStick Pico kit, and juice from Blue Dot Vapors. I haven't bought juice in a while since I make my own but they're my favorite juice vendor for the cheap price range, and pretty much anything from them should be delicious. Some might need to "steep" though - basically let it sit for a few days to cure. They do have presteeped juice though.

Make sure to be educated about battery safety. NEVER, EVER NEVER NEVER EVER NEVER carry a loose 18650 in a pocket or bag because something like keys or coins could short the battery, causing it to essentially explode violently. 18650 cases are cheap and convenient.

It's generally recommended to always charge 18650's via an external charger, like this or this. The Pico does have a USB charging port, and for everyday use it's probably fine, but it might possibly, maybe, not be 100% safe to leave it plugged in for long periods of time. See this thread and this thread. It's probably fine though.

Or just get him a Juul. I've never tried one, want to though, but from what I hear it's about the closest experience to actually smoking, and it's simpler too. The only downside is buying the pods. I think there are ways to refill them with juice though.

Also, just search around.

https://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_cigarette/search?q=quit+smoking&restrict_sr=on&sort=relevance&t=all

https://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_cigarette/search?q=best+starter+kit&sort=relevance&restrict_sr=on&t=year

I'm 37 and have wanted one of these since I was 10 as well. Also work in IT, but as a programmer, but I have done a lot of PC building and repairing on the side for decades. Never owned or worked on an arcade cabinet before, or worked with Raspberry Pi before. The Arcade1Up MK was also my first (and only so far) cab. As a tinkerer, I modded mine immediately (as in, within 3 days of ownership), and I'll give you some tips for if/when you mod yours that will save you a lot of time and money, because I made a lot of mistakes with mine buying wrong or insufficient parts, and general things that I would have done better/differently if I got to do it over again.

Modding is NOT hard. It's as easy as building the thing out of the box was (requires moderate effort and very little skill).

Hardware:

1. Get a Raspberry Pi 3 B+ from Amazon (seems to be the cheapest place, as it's $37.50 with free shipping there, but other stores charge $35 + like $5+ for shipping).
   
2. Mistake #1 for me: I went with a 256GB MicroSD because I WAY overestimated how much space I'd need, because I was looking at "complete" ROM sets that had a million duplicates, lightgun games, trackball games, spinner games, bartop touchscreen games, a bunch of adult stuff, like 500 Mahjong games, etc., and I knew I also wanted to download video previews for a Hyperspin-like setup. Depending on the systems you want to emulate, a 64GB MicroSD should be plenty. If you want to be safe (hey, maybe someday you'll get a modded control panel with a trackball, spinner, and maybe you'll do an AimTrak setup), go with 128GB. My 256GB card is a huge waste, as they're very expensive.
   
3. If you get an aftermarket joysticks/button kit, just go with the $56 Sanwa kit. I went with the EG STARTS joystick & LED buttons kit, and the buttons look and work amazingly, but the joysticks are garbage. They're worse than the stock joysticks; the only reason I'd use them over the stock joysticks is because they're 8-way (stock ones on the A1U MK cab are 4-way for some reason). The joysticks have WAY too light of a pull, and a pull-then-release will result in it springing back and hitting the opposite switch (for example if you pull left and let go, it'll spring back and briefly trigger the right switch). I got Sanwa sticks to remedy this, but it set me back $50 for those + another $10 for the 8-way gates, so that totals $115 for the controls. Don't worry, your A1U stock battops will work with those sticks.
   
4. If you want LED buttons (they do look incredible), then just get a cheap decent LED button kit of your choosing and spend $46 on two Sanwa sticks. You'll come out way cheaper than I did.
   
5. You don't need an amp for your audio with the RPi. I spent $20 on an amp and didn't even end up using it. Just plug some cheap powered PC speakers into your monitor controller board to use the HDMI audio. I then mounted the speakers to the top of my cab in the back, so they're not really visible but the volume knob on them is easy to reach. I've seen some people mount PC speakers right on the sides of the cab, but I don't like that aesthetic personally. If you want to go the extra mile (I plan to try), disassemble the speakers, mount them on the panel between the kickplate and the control panel (after making speaker holes or purchasing an aftermarket one with holes drilled already), and then make an extra hole in the center of that panel for the volume knob (just mount the board behind there, with the potentiometer sticking out, and then put the plastic knob right back on the dial to cover the hole).
   
6. You will need to drill two 1 1/8" holes in the panel between the control panel and kickplate for select/coin buttons. I've never done any woodworking in my life but was able to do this easily. All I did was measure the vertical halfway line (drawing a horizontal line with a square and a pencil), and then 1/3 of the total distance from both the left and right edges, drawing vertical lines. The intersections are where you drill your holes. Very simple. It's only a 3/16" thick panel so it's no sweat at all. Just be sure to remove the panel before doing this, and use some clamps to clamp it securely to a piece of scrap wood.
   
7. You can wire your RPi to use the stock A1U on/off switch. It's very simple, but you may need to reverse the switch (by just physically turning it around), or else it might be backwards ("Off" is "On" and vice-versa). It's just 2 wires. This'll have the added benefit of turning your RPi off cleanly, and also powering down all your peripherals, including the monitor and USB devices.
   
8. You're gonna want a bluetooth keyboard so you can access DIP switches in games, and use Linux commands.
   
9. If you plan on connecting any extra USB stuff beyond the controls, you'll want a good RPi power supply. You might also want a powered USB hub for extra power, because even the best RPi power supplies (true 3 amp) can't power more than 3-4 USB devices along with the Pi.
   
   Software:
   
   
10. Here's a really good clean 64GB Arcade-only RPi image. It includes all the descriptions and video previews, so you don't have to run a scraper.
    
11. If MK games have crackling audio, go into the DIP switch menu with F2 and turn the volume down to about 60%. Also turn the RPi volume down a bit, to no more than 75%.
    
12. Sometimes when using RPi images, the screen resolution is wrong; set it to 1280x1024. You may also want to disable bezels.
    
13. Some RPi themes only look good at 16:9 aspect ratios; my favorite 5:4 compatible theme is "Showcase".
    
14. If you see a yellow lightning bolt icon in the top right on the Pi, it means it's underpowered and you need to disconnect peripherals, get a powered USB hub for some of them, or upgrade your power supply. Seeing this symbol will cause slowdown in games and can potentially corrupt your MicroSD image entirely.
    
15. If you have a yellow FPS or 'frame counter' in the bottom left of your screen, do the following:
    
    Go into a game, and hit Select/Coin + X. This will bring up a special Retroarch menu. Go to Settings -> Onscreen Display -> Onscreen Notifications -> Display Frame Count -> OFF. Hit B to go back to the Settings menu, then go to Configuration and make sure Save Configuration on Exit is ON. You may have to do this for every system you're emulating, because it seems to only apply to whichever emulator you have running when you change the setting.
    
    None of this is nearly as complicated as it might sound. I was just trying to be thorough and save you a ton of time and money. Hope this helps!
    
    Here's a video of my modded cab:
    
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J8lNARvbiKA

Currently using the GPW and G305 (use them pretty much equal, if I'm having a bad game I'll switch). My S2 arrived Tuesday, and it's on it's way back today lmao. Shape isn't bad it's too small for me (19.5cm x 10.5xm hands). That said despite the shape, it really did suck going back to a wired mouse haha. I don't have a bungee and I forget how annoying it was to constantly have to rewrap my wire around my desk and tug on it in case it fell off the back of the table.

Additionally, even though I did like the shape of S2, the glossy coating is retarded. My hands would feel disgusting like I just came in my hand and ate a bag of potato chips. Then without even washing my hand I would place it on my gpw and instantly feel clean. You can see it too, my S2 looks far grosser after 2 days than my g102 did after 2 years. I also felt really silly paying $70 for a mouse that from a technical standpoint is inferior to my $50 g305 in every singe way. Even my $27 g102 feels higher quality than the s2 in terms of buttons, wheel and material. Don't worry about sensor, 3360/hero is overkill and I never noticed anything going from Mercury to Hero.

On top of that instead of using amazon prime and having 2 days turnarounds tops it takes 8 days to recieve from Zowie direct. First impression of Zowie, the shapes ARE GOOD, but not really not that special and in no way make up for their mediocre quality and being overpriced. Like yeah, despite being too small for me I did like the shape of the s2, but I didn't like it any better than my g305 or gpw, it was just different.

When I got my $130 g pro wireless I didn't feel like I got ripped off at all. When I felt how sturdy yet light it was, and saw how long the rechargeable battery lasted, I knew I had paid a high price for a high quality product. I have the complete opposite feeling with Zowie.

So in conclusion get the GPW. Better yet, if you're already using the g203, get a g305 for less than half the price. Get these battery shellshttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D6RDQ3S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

with these lithium ion batteries

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06ZYWKBRB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and the mouse will weight EXACTLY THE SAME as the g102.

I know using nonrechargeable can be lame, but I've been using the g203 for a month now and the battery still shows full bars.

Like I said I use gpw and g305, and I honestly feel like I play better with the g305, I'm just so used to the shape after going from a g100s, to a g203 to this over the past 4 years. Despite the shape I still use the GPW too because it's hard NOT to aim well with a large wireless 80g mouse.

I would say yes.

My hands are the same size as yours, my main mouse used to be a G203 which has a very similar shape to the G305.

Use AAA Lithium Batter With this to reduce the weight of the mouse.

I think the aluminum foil trick is more for emergencies, for permanent size changes you could use a converter https://www.amazon.com/LAMPVPATH-Battery-Adapter-Converter-adapter/dp/B07D6RDQ3S

I was thinking something like these for a power cable:

https://www.amazon.com/SMAKN-Switching-Supply-Adapter-100-240/dp/B01N4HYWAM

https://www.amazon.com/d/Small-Device-AC-Air-Conditioner-Adapters-Power-Supply/SMAKN-Switching-Supply-Adapter-100-240/B00LN3FC0G

I second this. I swapped everything over to 240 last night and everything seems much more stable. Definitely affordable, especially if you already have an unused 20/30A 240V in a garage or something and definitely worth doing. Tripplite 30A PDU ~$160 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007YG85A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1), C14 to PSU cables ($5 each or less if used) (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000067RRX/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1), and presto. You're good to go. It was literally plug and play with all of my PSUs (EVGA, Corsair, Rosewill, etc.). Everything is on one 30A 240V outlet instead of spread across multiple 110 outlets.

https://www.amazon.com/Bright-VC500W-Voltage-Transformer-converter/dp/B000MX1QXA

I'm betting you can find one cheaper locally though.

Ideally married batteries should be from the same manufacturer and the same production batch so they charge the same to full and they drop to the same (safe) discharged voltage when the circuit should detect the low voltage and shut down.
With a fully charged battery married to a half discharged battery, the half discharged battery will fall below it's safe discharged battery because the fuller charged battery will keep the married voltage high enough that the vaper circuit thinks all is well - but the lower battery gets force discharged below it's safe discharged voltage.
In time, the weaker battery can become so badly damaged it is a danger to you. Thus only use matched batteries and a good charger.

Many chargers are cheap junk and a danger to all.all you need to know about lithium chargers
Here is a very good charger.
Opus BT-C3100 Digital V2.2 lithium charger. Sold in many places
I got mine from amazon

Opus BT-C3100 has been my go-to for months now, though it doesn't get as much love as others.

You don't already have the PD35? In that case, I would recommend a different light. The PD35 isn't bad, but the very similar Thrunite TN12 is generally regarded as better around here because:

• It comes in neutral white, which the vast majority prefer over cool white; the PD35 only comes in cool white.
  
• The TN12 does not have timed stepdowns in any mode, while the PD35 automatically steps down twice in the highest mode.
  
• The TN12 can tailstand and the PD35 cannot.
  
• The TN12 has a lower low mode.
  
  Alternately, there's the TC12, essentially a TN12 with a battery included and a MicroUSB charging port so you don't need a separate charger. Coupon code "THRUNITE" will save you a bit of money on either of these.
  
  The batteries I already linked are my recommendation for batteries. Chargers depend a bit on your preferences:
  
  
• The Xtar MC1 and MC2 chargers are about as inexpensive as a safe and reliable charger gets from a US-based dealer.
  
• The Nitecore F1 also acts as a USB powerbank.
  
• The Thrunite C2 is a fully-enclosed design similar to the smaller sealed powerbanks you've probably seen, but with a removable battery. It is not sold separately from the battery, but the included battery is of good quality.
  
• The Nitecore D4 is an inexpensive four-slot charger with a voltage display and the ability to handle NiMH (AA and AAA rechargeable) as well as Li-ion.
  
• The Opus BT-C3100 is a four-slot charger that also handles NiMH (AA and AAA rechargeable), lets you select charging current, displays voltage, tests capacity, tests resistance and reconditions NiMH cells that have lost capacity.

All NiMH AA chargers work with any NiMH AA battery. (Most also charge AAA NiMH batteries.)

The old and dependable 4xAAA or AA, NiMH or NiCad charger is the Maha/Powerex MH-C9000. It can test cells and measure it's capacity, but you have to set the charging current. It's a bit pricey though. ~$53. It's my tried and true and I trust it will last for years.
https://www.amazon.com/Powerex-MH-C9000-WizardOne-Charger-Analyzer-Batteries/dp/B003DIGKOG

My other analyzing charger charges NiMH/NiCad and most types of rechargeable lithium cells 18650 and smaller to 10440. It's not as well built as the Powerex, but charges more types of cells and is less expensive: the Opus BT-C3100
I think the most recent version is v2.2 and is approximately $42
https://www.amazon.com/Opus-BT-Intelligent-Compatible-Batteries/dp/B01852TBOU
I use this to recharge both my NiMH AAA/AA's as well as my 18650 flashlight batteries. Opus has a NiMH only version of the charger, that I've not used: the BT-C2400 that sells for around $30.

For my NiMH C and D cells I use an Ansmann 8 plus charger that doesn't have a fancy LCD display, so cannot be adjusted or show voltage, charge current, nor capacity. But it does have 4 independent charging channels for C and D cells and 6 for AA and AAA cells. Apparently they go for $25 now... I paid a lot more for mine.
https://www.amazon.com/ANSMANN-Universal-Maintenance-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B003V89RYS
I use this for the NiMH C/D cells that go into various Nerf flywheel blasters. I also use it for AA/AAA's when I need to charge a whole lot of batteries and the rest of my chargers are already being used.

The chargers at Ikea suck, don't buy them.
The chargers that came with the Eneloop packs that Costco used to sell, are nice individual channel chargers, but they're super, super slow overnight chargers when you put 4 cells in them.

A good source for NiMH/Lithium cell and charger info is the candlepower forums: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/forumdisplay.php?9-Flashlight-Electronics-Batteries-Included

Just buy a cheap universal adapter(with good reviews though). You don't need a transformer for a laptop or phone charger.


something like this

You need a plug adapter and depending on what you’re plugging in, a voltage converter you can get both here. Some things like most laptops don’t need the voltage converter. Other things like hair dryers do, so research what you want to plug in and whether you should use the voltage converter or not.

I use this. This should convert dmx to led talk. And you will need a power supply.

For best results I power my strips from both aide. Other wise they will get darker as the strip gets longer.

If you want to turn your MiSTer on and off, a lot of us use this power supply which doesn’t drop voltage

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N336XEU/

and this type barrel adaptor for it

Fucung DC 5.5x2.1mm (type M barrel) Male Plug To Micro USB Female Connector Adapter Charge Converter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G5DS6J4

Call an electrician. Tell him/her that you need a 240V 30A circuit installed that you can plug one of these into:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007YG85A (or similar spec PDU)

Buy a few of these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0085CE9O8

... and connect your S9s to the PDU. 1 in each bank.

You can run 4 S9s off of the above 30A 240V PDU and circuit, while still observing the 80% rule.

That's how you do it.

Transformer input: 120VAC, 60 Hz (standard US)

Transformer output: 24VAC, 25VA

"VAC" means Volts AC. This transformer outputs AC current, not DC. "VA" is Volt-Amps, which is basically the power output.

Here's one on Amazon that would probably work:

http://www.amazon.com/Class-II-Transformer-Approved-MGT-2440/dp/B004VMVDTA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1462551934&sr=8-5&keywords=ac+transformer+24v

It's a bit of overkill at 40VA, but like I said, I think it would work just fine.

If you're worried about low voltage dropout, you could go to 4S and use a step-down (or just "buck", no boost) converter circuit. That should give you a stable 12V without significant wasted power.

A buck converter only steps voltage down, not up. It also doesn't simply burn excess power due to a higher voltage like a linear regulator does.

These kinds of things would do the job. Just make sure what you use is rated for the current draw you need. Those are only rated for up to 3A.

hi, sure! I used a cheap generic "Buck Converter DC DC Step Down" referred in the amazon listing as MP1584EN, that takes max 24V IN (so we should be within the range even on charging phase) and lowers it down to 3.3v needed to run safely the esp8266.

amazon link: https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B01MQGMOKI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00

​

on my module i have a screw for selecting the desired voltage output, you have to be very accurate, slights movements of this screw cause big changes in output, but with some patience and a multimeter you should be able to set it up for your desired OUT value.

​

as for your LDO attempt: i don't know which model you used but if it gets hot it's either too much voltage IN, hence the lowering process produces too much heat or too much amperage to sustain. Check the datasheets if you remember which model you used

Sounds like over-draw or short protection. I had the same issue when I tried to drive a signal voltage shifter directly from the RPi's 5v pin. I ended up getting some super-cheap 12v-to-adjustable step-down converters and powering all of my accessories from those via the PSU rather than the RPi itself.

I got one from a target that brickseek specifically said was out of stock. They had a few and they didn't have any kind of indication that it was marked down I just asked the employee to price check it and it came up at $34.98. So I would just call around to targets and ask if they have it.

EDIT: Here is a video from Linus Tech Tips about the g305. Getting a AA to AAA adapter and using a AAA battery helps the weight distribution dramatically.

One of these:

​

Amazon 5VDC 4A Switching supply

I have the breakout board and picked up this 5v4A PSU from Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4HYWAM/

(it was $9 on prime when I got it)


To deliver power to the board I found a snap-on right angle molex connector in my parts bin, cut the barrel plug off the PSU, and attached the connector. I don't know the official name for it but this is what it looks like:

https://i.imgur.com/JvZHl3F.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/8dQJQhy.jpg

So far it has worked great and it frees up the screw down connectors to power accessories. You can see a fan powered there in the second picture.

> 1) Is my keyboard now fucked? It wasnt cheap so this is not ideal

probably, if it doesn't work on another device

>2) Is the KVM now fucked? Should I not plug it in? Again, not cheap

Might be, you should plug it in with the proper adapter though.

>3) How do I prevent this happening again, and test it without killing my machine?

By using adapters suitable for the device you're using. If it says 5V get a 5V adapter. You could get one of the universal ones with tons of endpoints and setable voltage (like this one) but personally I don't trust them.

Funnily enough, I learned not too long ago they also make adapters...

SMAKN DC 5V/4A 20W Switching Power Supply Adapter

This one works for mine

>pre-outs continue to play when headphones are connected

Jason explained this, there's no 4 pin XLR jack that supports muting.

I solved this issue using a power switcher but my gear is on an audio rack, so it might not be the best solution for free-standing gear.

I've heard lots of great things about the American DJ power strips. https://www.amazon.com/American-Pc-100A-Mount-Power-Switcher/dp/B0002GL50Q/ref=sr_1_5?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1491478959&sr=1-5&refinements=p_4%3AAmerican+DJ

Ahh, lighting control. Amazing results, pain in the ass to get there...

As the others have said, DMX can help you control your lights. Simple DMX controls and programs are fairly simple to do using a controller, like an obey10. Wash lighting, simple programs for slow songs, etc., these are all awesome to do, and give the night that much more appeal. But, there's more work to be done. Addressing your lights, wiring up the DMX (or spending more on wireless dmx) creating programs, etc.

If you want some control but this seems daunting, get something like this to control lighting on/off (http://www.amazon.com/American-Pc-100A-Mount-Power-Switcher/dp/B0002GL50Q) as a start. Great for cheap lasers, moonflowers, etc.

Obey10 is a good starter controller if you have more than par cans to wire up. If all you have are pars, then an obey 4 is suffcient.

If you really wanna go all out, get an OpenDMX USB controller, and download QLC+, which is open source. This is controller is a couple hundred, but allows you to do full programming in QLC+. This is the most complex you'll wanna go for a mobile rig, I would think. With this, you can create programs, then control them from a lighting laptop, or even setup TouchOSC and control it remotely with your phone... all sorts of cool, but time-consuming things.

You can get as complicated as you'd like when it comes to lighting... If your clients like what you're doing, keep doing it. If you want to step it up in looks, but keep it simple, do your parcans with a simple Obey4 and control them only, then put the rest on sound active with a simple power-switcher...

My 2 cents. Fully-programmed lights make it awesome, but you'll suffer at setup time...

It's a rack mount power switcher. I can turn everything on/off with it.

One 240/30A should be adequate :) That gives you 7,200 watts and even at 80% load that's 5,760 watt max so you're pretty close to that number. Go with two x2 240/30A for now; you may just need the one extra down the road if you expand or have a tool or something that can take advantage of the 240's. Might as well get it done while the electrician is in there.

We upgraded ours completely as our 100 amp panel to be upgraded so had my friend (master electrician) install new 200 amp panel (waiting for 200A drop by the electric company). 40-slot panel including whole house surge protector (fits inside two slots).

I took the possible maximum power each card can draw just to have some breathing room and ended up with x2 240/30A breaker running on L6-30 plugs with Tripp-Lite PDU's (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007YG85A) I split the power between the two lines even though I can probably run all my 40 1080 Ti's on one but wanted to spread the load a bit.

240's are nice since there's a slight increase in efficiency but also you're able to run server PSU's like HP's with breakout board which ends up being cheaper than buying couple 1200W PSU's.

UPS aren't relevant here. They are battery backups. You need a PDU. I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007YG85A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Make sure the plug matches. You will also need C14 to C13 power cords.

The mains output voltage in residential homes in Kenya is 240V, compared to 120V in the US and Japan. Your American 3DS charger is only rated up to 120V. As soon as you plugged it into the Kenyan power outlet, your 3DS power adapter fried. You will need to buy a brand new one when you return to the US, or you can get one in Kenya depending on how long you'll actually be there.

Your laptop's/iPod's/phone's power adapters did not fry because adapters for these devices are usually rated for the range 110V-240V. It is only really Nintendo's adapters that I have to watch out for nowadays.

Next time, do not use those small outlet converters for devices that are not rated at the proper mains voltage. What you need is a transformer, and you should not cheap out on this because transformers can be risky to use.

I got this one: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000MX1QXA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_n64WDb30J7A68

For 250 my recommendation would be a pair of Philharmonic Affordable Accuracy Monitors paired with a suitable amplifier. They're easily the best speakers I've used. Great imaging, very clear and detailed, and amazing bass for a 2.0 setup.

I got along with a basic Lepai amplifier with an upgraded power supply which did better than I expected to. Otherwise you could probably get away with an SMSL-SA36 if you're not blasting them.

For the money though, I bet you could find a used receiver for a great deal off your local craigslist.

I currently run them with an SMSL SA-160 which does an amazing job of driving them but would push you out of your budget.

Alternatively, I've also used the Micca MB42Xs paired with the same Lepai as above and it's a fantastic budget-oriented setup which doesn't take up too much space.

Make sure you get the upgraded power supply or it can damage your speakers from popping.

Usually people do recommend getting a more powerful power supply (~ 5A) instead of the default 2A one that comes with the Lepai amp. You could try getting it replaced and see if that fixes the problem, though.

Well, first thing, don't trust the standard wire colors on this installation.

That being said, if you want to use the existing wiring, you can get 24v to your 'C' terminal with one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Class-II-Transformer-Approved-MGT-2440/dp/B004VMVDTA

Your call. The most difficult would be to pull new t-stat wire from your A/C to the best position that you want for the Ecobee.

I like your chosen t-stat because it can pair with remote sensors, for added efficiency. And you can connect it to your home network. It is a good choice.

But this one will work:

https://www.amazon.com/Class-II-Transformer-Approved-MGT-2440/dp/B004VMVDTA

I personally wouldn't use it. Look for a simple regulated 12V power supply. Something like this should be adequate depending on the amp requirements of the scope.

You need one of [these] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KVQPF94/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and one of these.

Doesn't have to be expensive. I have had one of these amps for a few months and it works great, plugged into the TV's headphone jack. You will need a 12-volt power adapter for it, but almost everybody has one of these laying around the house.

For less than $50 I am now able to fill my outdoor graveyard with 8 colorful spot lights.

Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072BXB2Y8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . (DC Connectors)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Q2E5IXW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . (12V Adapter)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PVVL2S6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . (120 LED's)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DDG7J9K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . (100ft 18-Gauge Wire)

Get yourself a little something.

> PC Volume Control Knob, DROK USB Volume Adjuster Knobs Audio Sound Controller for Adjusting Volume of Computer, No Loss of Sound Quality with 4.6 Feet Cable

>https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016U2KXCG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_lti8BbK3KS6BW

looks like this thing https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Control-Controller-Adjusting-Computers/dp/B016U2KXCG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1501348428&sr=8-2&keywords=USB%2Bvolume%2Bknob&th=1

Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Lossless-Computer-Controller-Adjuster/dp/B016U2KXCG/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1520821216&sr=8-5&keywords=volume%2Bcontrol%2Bknob&th=1

I personally have a Dac/Amp for my headphones and a separate audio interface for my speakers, but most people probably aren't looking to spend a good 100 bucks on audio equipment.

Here is the charger/tester I bought awhile back.

https://www.amazon.com/Opus-BT-Intelligent-Compatible-Batteries/dp/B01852TBOU

There might be better, I didn't do a ton of research before buying it, it's worked for me for over a year now without issues though.

[WTB] Opus BT-C3100 V2.2

If someone has an one that they don't really use anymore I'd be glad to take it off of your hands.

[WTB] Any color temp correcting film to warm up a camping lantern's color temp. 5000k-6000k -> 3000k-4000k.

This one is recommended a few places, though I have not bought one yet.

https://www.amazon.com/Opus-BT-Intelligent-Compatible-Batteries/dp/B01852TBOU/ref=pd_ybh_a_65?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HNKJFG4B8QX9Y6XZY8MA

The Opus BT-C3100 is another popular 4 cell charger which also has analyzer capabilities.

Opus BT - C3100 V2.2 Digital Intelligent 4 Slots LCD Battery Charger Compatible with Li-ion NiCd NiMh Batteries - US Plug (PURPLISH BLUE) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01852TBOU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8f.5Ab6PKFA8J

I have a Skross since ages, works well and very sturdy. https://www.amazon.com/Skross-Travel-Adapter-2-pole-Charger/dp/B00E4GF2TU

​

Before that I had a similar looking one but much cheaper, generic brand, you could feel it was much more fagile and poorly built. Tt burnt in South Africa when I plugged it into the wall lol. https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Worldwide-Universal-Adaptor-Charging/dp/B01DJ140LQ

Get the cheapest plug adapter you can find, and several of them, because you'll probably leave one in a hotel room. You can get the simple blocky ones for 8 bucks or less on Amazon, and if you had to pick one up at an airport you'd pay like $20.

And now, to contradict my own advice, I also like the USB chargers which take multiple plugs. If you travel with multiple USB-charged devices like my family does, they are very useful. There are many on Amazon, here's two at random:

https://www.amazon.com/Charger-YXwin-4-Ports-International-Adapter/dp/B072FV67ZS/ref=sr_1_7

https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-MoMoCity-International-Worldwide-Smartphone/dp/B01M1GUJHV/ref=sr_1_10

EDIT: Looks like you can get the simple blocky ones with USB now. It might just make sense to pick up a few of these instead:

https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Worldwide-Universal-Adaptor-Charging/dp/B01DJ140LQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1504473249&sr=8-3&keywords=international+plug+adapter

Travel charger !!! This is a good one https://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-Universal-Converter-Charging-Worldwide/dp/B01E140XWA

I've traveled to quite a few places with my kit lens. It's pretty damn good.

You still have time to fill out the rest of your stuff, if needed:

Filters:

Singh-Ray Filters makes a "ColorCombo LB" filter. Works like wearing a pair of polarized GOOD quality sunglasses outdoors. I never took it off. Excellent quality and helped when the sky was overexposed and when I generally wanted to get a more intense color.

Lens:

Your kit lens will be more than fine for anything during the day. But at night is different. The kit is meh at night. You definitely want something to capture night time. Maybe some star time lapses? Those are always cool.

Leica 15mm F1.7 My wallet hurt when I bought this, but to be honest, it's on my camera more than it's not. It makes the night look amazing. The quality is awesome too.

Panasonic 25mm f1.7 - compared to the "nifty fifty" on a full frame (25mm*2=50mm). This is our "go-to" as a second lens (for day and/or night), but to get an idea of how 'zoomed in' it is, take your kit lens and rotate it to "25mm". That's how this lens is. Too much for me, but it's still worth mentioning.

Panasonic 45-150mm f4.0-5.6 - I just bought this lens from Amazon Warehouse for $100. It's very well built and serves it's purpose (when I want to zoom in on something far away).

Microphones:

If you want a better microphone get the Videomic Pro+. The difference between this and the others are that the mic turns on/off automatically when the camera turns on/off and it has a USB rechargeable battery.

Batteries:

Speaking of extra batteries, you're going to want more. There are three types: cheap non-decoded, cheap decoded, and OEM (which are decoded).

Non-decoded means you won't know how much battery you have left in the camera. Obviously that's dumb. Spend a little more and get decoded. I really like these OAproda 2 pack + charger. No battery lasts as long as the OEM, but it's close enough. Plus, the OAproda charger is much thinner than the others and charges via USB.

SD Cards:

I love these SanDisk Extreme Pro. I purchased the 128gb because I NEVER want to be in a position that I can ever possibly run out of space.

You'll want a way to copy the files to your pc. This Transcend USB 3.0 works amazingly, and it's $9 for a two pack.

External Drive:

You WILL run out of space on your laptop. You can either purchase 3-4 SD cards, or you can get an external HDD. Each has it's pros and cons.

Battery Pack / cables:

Whether it's your phone / headphones / batteries / tablet / whatever, I suggest the Anker PowerCore. These things are beasts. One of these made sure I was able to fly from here to Australia without worrying about battery levels.

You'll also want to carry extra wires. Whether MicroUSB, USB-C, or Lightening, I would never use anything else but Anker PowerLine


International Charger:
I used the BESTEK Travel Adapter and loved it. Plenty of ports to charge stuff on. It has a small fan (to keep it cool) that some people say bothers them, but I'm the lightest sleeper and it didn't bother me. Barely heard it.

You didn't specify how big you wanted, but may I suggest "Addressable LEDs"?
https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-neopixel-uberguide/the-magic-of-neopixels
.
You will need to be able to solder wires.
Here is a 1 meter length strip, 12mm wide is ~ 1/2 inch,
6.9mm is ~ 0.27 inch between centers
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61oiR3Lo5rL._SL1000_.jpg
.
Here's a closeup of all the details:
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61Nxr4h0WHL._SL1000_.jpg
adhesive to mount the strip
when you want a short piece to fit, you cut to length and then rejoin with 3 wires.
See the 3 colored pads? See the Arrows?

Software? look at "Adafruit_NeoPixel" library, there are several examples
Here is an incomplete example of filling a whole string
// Fill the dots one after the other with a color
void colorWipe(uint32_t c, uint8_t wait) {
for(uint16_t i=0; i<strip.numPixels(); i++) {
strip.setPixelColor(i, c);
strip.show();
delay(wait);
}
}
.
$22 144 pixels, Not Waterproof Black flexible PCB
https://www.amazon.com/ALITOVE-Individually-Addressable-Programmable-Waterproof/dp/B019DYZNO6/
$21 for power to the strip
https://www.amazon.com/ALITOVE-Adapter-Converter-Charger-5-5x2-1mm/dp/B01M0KLECZ/

I just helped a friend of mine build his own, it's very easy to put together yourself. Here's our component list, that you may find helpful.

Raspberry Pi 3B

Flirc Raspberry Pi Case Gen2

8Bitdo Sn30 Bluetooth Gamepad

SanDisk 32GB Micro SD

AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable

NorthPada RPi3 Power Supply

Of course, there are many different cases and controllers you can use, you don't need to buy these specifically but it'll give you a good idea what you need to get started and what it will cost you when all is said and done. This is also assuming you just want something to play on TV. If you are a building a handheld, that's a different beast.

You need a beefier power supply. I use ones similar to this:

https://www.amazon.com/NorthPada-Raspberry-Supply-Charger-Adapter/dp/B01N336XEU

It also had a switch to prevent having to plug/unplug to power cycle.

Thanks man, it came out a lot nicer than expected.
I had some LED par cans laying around that I used to use for parties, just put them in the corner behind the desk. One facing straight up to the ceiling, the other two uplighting the wall opposite them. The two shining on the walls are set to the same speed while the 3rd which is on the ceiling is slightly slower and unsynced so I can have a bit of a cool dynamic. Plus I have them all plugged into a rackmount power strip (http://www.amazon.com/American-Pc-100A-Mount-Power-Switcher/dp/B0002GL50Q) so I can switch individual ones on and off whenever.

> ADJ Power conditioner

It's just a power switch?

https://www.amazon.ca/American-Pc-100A-Mount-Power-Switcher/dp/B0002GL50Q

Keep trying new things. I'm lucky to have a proper room where I can get everything just right, but one new pedal or synth comes along, and the whole setup gets torn apart and reconfigured. That's half the fun! I get the cut-to-length velcro by the roll and use it on everything.

I can't quite see everything you've got going on, but since you've got that rack, you could add a power strip (e.g. https://www.amazon.com/American-Pc-100A-Mount-Power-Switcher/dp/B0002GL50Q) to get all your power plugs organized behind convenient toggle switches (might hide away some of the clutter also).

You probably don't need a patch bay just yet, but if you add a few more audio inputs/outputs, and you find yourself juggling connections too much, consider adding one, such as: http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/PX3000/. That can help with organizing cables and routing options as your setup grows.

If I had to replace it I would use one of these. The negative reviews are mainly from people that had bad experiences with the distributor or misleading info on Amazon.

Easy, just turn off the main power strip when you are not gaming.
There is no practical need for a "failsafe", because standby draw should be rather low.

A bit more complex, but safer, is a DJ power strip. Still no"failsafe" but better than the one strip.

These are all running:

• TB250-BTC PRO (12-slot) MOBOs (utilizing 8 slots)
  
• Pentium G4400 processors
  
• 4GB ram
  
• Ubuntu 17.10 with latest Nvidia drivers (390.25)
  
• Cheap 32GB SSD
  
• Cheap Amazon shoe racks
  
• Tripp Lite PDU
  
• Fan
  
  

I found a custom cord page on that site:

https://www.stayonline.com/custom_power_cords.aspx

I'm not sure how it validates the configuration since receptacles have different wires/grounding but they have an email you can contact on there for guidance.

If it's possible to change that plug into a NEMA L5-30 (which it seems is possible on that custom cord page) then op could get a PDU like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000083KIV

That might be a little overkill for what op needs.

Another option to consider is instead of using the C13 to NEMA 5-15 cables from your PSU, you can use C13 to C14 to a PDU that accepts them which would run your PSUs at 240V instead of 120V. Then instead of the NEMA 10-50 to L5-30 op could get a cable that does NEMA 10-50 to L6-30 and a PDU like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007YG85A

This is all operating under the assumption that it is possible to convert 10-50 to L5-30 or L6-30. NEMA 10-50 is non-grounding so that may be an issue.

https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Outlets-Rack-Mount-PDU1230/dp/B0007YG85A/

Just swap the socket to a L6-30 and run with it :)

I use this one, pretty decent. I can handle 3 to 4 antminers (depending on model). Tripp Lite Basic PDU, 30A, 20 Outlets (16 C13 & 4 C19), 200/208/240V, L6-30P Input, 15 ft. Cord, 1U Rack-Mount Power (PDU1230) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007YG85A?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I don't really know much about PDUs, so I just got a simple one. 30A 220v - which can run 4 of my 1400w server PSUs per PDU per 30A outlet.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007YG85A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The item you linked to pulls almost 5 amps at 110 volts which is ~500 watts. The transformer you said 'went up in smoke' was rated for 100 watts so I'm sure it didn't last very long at all. You need a simple step down transformer thats rated at >500 watts. This should work: https://www.amazon.com/Bright-VC500W-Voltage-Transformer-converter/dp/B000MX1QXA/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1542787838&sr=1-5&keywords=500W+transformer although I'm not sure of the type of plugs used in the philipines.

Before you buy a transformer, check on the bottom of the fan or on its power adapter (if it has one) if it's rated for full-range (100-240V) use. I don't see any information in the manual for this model, but reviewers of other DC-powered fans by this manufacturer claim that the DC adapters for those are full-range.

If it's not full range, then see the following:

The manual doesn't list the amperage/wattage for this fan, but it does specify a 2.5-amp fuse for the cord. This means that at 120V, the fan can draw up to 300VA (about 300W) at full power.

With this in mind, I would recommend a 400W step-down transformer or larger. You want to use a converter with an actual transformer in it, like this one. Don't use a step-down converter with a triac (very light-weight and will usually be rated for a very high power for its size).

I would not expect the lower frequency to adversely affect the electronics, since the electronic parts will be fed from a rectifier.

Must be one of those cheap solid state transformers, apparently all the cheap travel converters on Amazon have this limitation. You might have to get a full size transformer and not a travel sized one. Something like this

If the device says "INPUT 100-240v" (or 110-220v, etc...) on it you will only need a plug adapter.

If not, you will need a step-down voltage converter. These things are bulky and heavy and you may find it easier just to buy a new whatever over here. They have cheaper, smaller ones but I've yet to use or even read reviews of one that seems dependable. They tend to break.

I think the easiest thing to do would be to buy or build (only if you know your AC wiring) a step-down transformer. The ratio of turns should be 2:1, so the output voltage will be half of the input voltage; 115V. I am assuming since you say 230V that you live in EU/UK/etc, so it will be 115Vac at 50 Hz, not 60 like in the US. Either way, if the amplifier's power supply is a standard linear one, the mains frequency shouldn't matter too much. Be absolutely sure that the fuse is the only thing you damaged when your brother hooked it up to 230V.

edit: Something like [this](http://www.amazon.com/Goldsource%C2%AE-Voltage-Converter- Transformer-ST500/dp/B0022QOSDK/ref=pd_tcs_compl_e_8?ie=UTF8&refRID=0E994NKEG6RBTZVPTAHJ) should work. If you want to move away from having an external transformer do all the work, you'll have to do some more research.

I use this one: https://smile.amazon.com/Goldsource-STU-500-Voltage-Converter-Transformer/dp/B0022QOSDK/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1465745826&sr=8-5&keywords=step+down+power+converter

it works well.

Just remember you have to set it up to convert properly with some jumper on the back. I forgot at first and was lucky the piece of gear didn't fry, though less than 220 is safer than more than 120 in terms of conversion

You can get a converter or just re-wire the plug yourself.

But you also need to check the voltage. UK runs on ~240v, US is 110v. Make sure the range on the speakers says 110-240v or similar. If it just says (220-)240v then you're going to need a transformer instead.

No, kitchen receptacles are not wired that way. You will not get 240v from both hot sides of one receptacle. You need to get a voltage booster such as http://www.amazon.com/Goldsource®-Voltage-Converter-Transformer-ST500/sim/B0022QOSDK/2

Edit, missed that your blender was 600 watts so this boost won't be enough, but you get the picture.

Dont do this, you may still fry the box, you need to get a stepdown converter, it will plug into your wall then step down your 220v to 110v, it will also help protect your box a little more if you get a power surge.

Source: multiple deployments with xbox 360

Edit: Here is an example on amazon

You can use reddit markup to shorten the links btw. Replacement Adapter Charger - Benq Monitors

This is the power brick, though you could buy any number of other ones like that one.

This setup (MB42x and Lepai Amp) doesn't really shine until you turn it up pretty loud. I wouldn't discourage you from getting it, but it was only marginally better than my old Logitech z-640 setup at low volumes. At higher volumes it's way, way better.

Yes, you will need an amp. This is the cheapest amp I would recommend, it does not come with a power cable or cables to connect to PC so I have included them as well.

Kinter MA-180 12V MINI Power Car Computer Amplifier USB Port Charging (Red)
by Kinter
Link: https://amzn.com/B006AMF2R8

Replacement 60W 12V 5A Adapter Charger for Benq LCD Monitors
by electree
Link: https://amzn.com/B003Z6ZR5O

C&E 3.5mm Stereo Male to Dual RCA Male (Right and Left) Audio Cable, 1 Foot
by C&E
Link: https://amzn.com/B015N529Z

Well, since all four wires to the t-stat are spoken for, you can pull another wire, or cheat:

https://www.amazon.com/Class-II-Transformer-Approved-MGT-2440/dp/B004VMVDTA

T-stat does not care where the power comes from. Does not have to be the furnace or A/C.

Mine is wired in directly using this

Works perfect for me and registers a solid power rating in the app.

OK, do you have easy access to the boiler 24vac transformer? If not, you need to buy a plug-in like this: https://smile.amazon.com/Class-II-Transformer-Approved-MGT-2440/dp/B004VMVDTA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1523549249&sr=8-1&keywords=plug+in+24vac+transformer
The new wiring scheme will be this: Receiver Red connect to current boiler Red terminal. Receiver White connect to current boiler White terminal. Disconnect current boiler Red wire and connect to boiler or plug-in transformer R. Disconnect current boiler White wire and connect to Receiver Purple. Connect Receiver Black to boiler or plugin-transformer Common terminal. Don't touch AC Red, Yellow, Green on the AC/Boiler side. Now go to the thermostat side. Connect Red from AC to Ecobee Rc. Connect Sender Purple to old Boiler White. Connect Sender White to ecobee W1. Connect Sender Black to ecobee C. Connect AC Y to ecobee Y1. Connect AC G to ecobee G. Connect old boiler Red wire to ecobee Rh.

I'm making the assumption you're in the US. So if I'm wrong, some of this will be too.

Ring has a plug-in adapter that can be used with (only) the Pro and has 20ft of cable for people without existing wiring so you don't have to involve an electrician https://shop.ring.com/products/plug-in-adapter

If you want to wire to an existing power source, you'd be looking at installing a big Nutone C907, which is bigger than a single gang (single switch or outlet width) electrical box and looks like this. Being that you're asking this question in the first place, that's probably not something I'd recommend undertaking by anyone other than a qualified electrician, as this is a lot more than just turning off the power and swapping out an old transfomer for a bigger one.

I'd go with the power adapter and plug it into an outlet.

(And just FYI I have zero affiliation with Ring, so I'm not promoting that link for any reason other than it's the only safe plug in adapter for the Pro, as those ones you see on Amazon don't even come close to supplying enough power, and will burn out the Ring and/or the adapter, and by the time it happens in a month, it will be too late to return—those ones on Amazon, no matter what they say, are not OK with the Pro.)

If you need something longer than 20 ft but don't want to call an electrician, I'd recommend this, and only this, off Amazon. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004VMVDTA/ (full link so you can see no afilliate or referral links) which you can use with your own 18-22AWG SOLID bell wire. 22AWG solid core for up to about 30 ft, 20AWG from 30-50 (or 0-30 ft if stranded not solid wire), and 18AWG solid (only, don't use stranded beyond 30ft) if you need to get up to 75 ft, but I wouldn't go much beyond that with low voltage wiring.

> If I DO get the battery, wouldn't I have to let it drain..use the energy in it prior to using solar to fill it up again?

To this question, no to draining. Consider it like a car battery in a car, where it is set for a life of re-maintaining charge off of the alternator/reg. Your 'solar' battery is made for it.

Now, since you bought the 'briefcase' already, I'm not going to reccomend something else, but could if you want.
The reviews don't seem great, understandably. 13 Watt just simply isn't that much, and the convenience isn't worth it, tho the price isn't too bad, comparably. You still have something cool, so not looking to get you down because you shouldn't be. But there are better options, getting cheaper every year. Depending on your usage requirements, you will be the one to find out if it works for you or not.

Sounds like you might have decent setup for someone is simply doing those first things you mentioned. You would want to upgrade if we're talking about the fridge or a vacuum (exceptions being 12v/off-grid styles for these.)

There could be some concerns running the 500 W Inverter off this regulator. I'm pretty sure I used a 300 W inv. off of this same controller box. One night, in a tent with my laptop connected, running audio interface via firewire, the damn thing exploded. I've since discovered it was one of the 12 V regulator (3 pin transistor) chips in it - which makes it an easy fix if you have the component and can solder.

My final point that I will make for you is to look for solutions that come straight off the 12 V Load source from the controller. In other words, bypass the inverter - it sucks too much juice inefficiently for smaller-duty uses such as charging phones. If it's possible to rig up a 12 V laptop cable that you can connect to your source, your system will be completely quiet and maybe 2X as efficient or more! Buy things like this for charging your phone/USB devices, just make sure you diode-protect it or don't switch pos and negative accidentally (I've roasted 2 of them, doing it differently now) Anyway, that's
https://www.amazon.com/Autek-Converter-convert-adapter-DCCON-5U-0/dp/B00BMIVFK8/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1466295975&sr=8-5&keywords=12+v+dc+to+5v+dc+converter

Good for you, hope this helps!

Posting as a tinkerer, not necessarily an electronics expert (I'm still in school for that, and only first quarter!).

Just so I'm clear, you are just wanting to use the battery to power the speaker setup, using an MP3 player or something as the source, correct?

This is totally doable, the main item you are missing is some sort of audio amplifier (an mp3 player etc won't drive the speakers). You could build this from scratch, from a kit, or just buy one. From your first sentence, you probably want to buy one, this is one I've had on my Amazon wish list:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007TUSXEY/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3HMEAX7MZ76LD&coliid=IPZIVXD6MGRA9

Assuming the Ruckus batter is 12v, you would be connecting this just like you would to a car. That amplifier just takes RCA for the audio (so just use an adapter cable like you would to connect your MP3 player to your stereo), and then has built in speaker terminals.

You can also wire in something like this so you can power your mp3 player/phone/whatever:

http://www.amazon.com/Autek-Converter-convert-adapter-DCCON-5U-0/dp/B00BMIVFK8/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1395441015&sr=1-1&keywords=12v+to+usb+adapter

For your speakers, I'm not much help there, but I'm figuring you would want something weatherproof so they don't get destroyed (some are made from paper, even a light sprinkle could ruin them pretty quickly).

Anyhow, hope this helps. Usual warnings apply, no warranty, etc etc. :)

Use something like this and large 12v battery.

Autek DC Converter Buck Module 12V convert to 5V usb output power adapter(DCCON-5U-0) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BMIVFK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Amnnzb8KPHM58

Do you have any power near your rearview?

My car doesnt have the optional compass/map light/powered rearview, but the power leads are there, so I just tapped into them, and added one of these

Now the camera(G1W-C, in my case) is right next to the mirror, and just powers on/off with the iginition.

The G1W-C isnt meant to run without a connected power source - just long enough to finish writing out to the flash card when power goes away.

I got mine from Foxoffer, and it seemed to be a pretty straightforward transaction.

I ordered one of these and tapped an accessory feed in my overhead console. It powers my OnStar module in the mirror so it's switched with the engine. There was plenty of room to install this and route the USB power cable through the headliner, down the mirror post and to my G1W-C that's mounted behind my rear view mirror.

You need to wire a USB converter in to the switch. Shouldn't be too hard to figure it out.

Like this

https://www.amazon.com/Converter-Module-convert-adapter-DCCON-5U-0/dp/B00BMIVFK8/ref=sxbs_bbp_recs_sx_w_p_v1?keywords=usb+to+12v+adapter&pd_rd_i=B00BMIVFK8&pd_rd_r=4fc8a9b5-e19c-46db-9815-2254702fd946&pd_rd_w=lCPmS&pd_rd_wg=lJ0Oy&pf_rd_p=635af317-3bc8-48e5-85cd-9c9c6b613408&pf_rd_r=1THN2VB7TREAYZ6ZVWA9&qid=1573006428

I had actually come up with a decent list of stuff needed to do a tablet install in a car using a Windows tablet and a S/PDIF connection to a DSP but I never got around to it due to the cost. Here's what I came up with (I know you're UK based but this stuff should be able to be found across the pond):

• USB OTG charging hub - you're going to have to try a few models of this out to find one that works reliably. USB OTG charging is notoriously difficult to get working in a stable way
  
• USB DC-DC 3 amp power convertor for powering all the stuff
  
• USB Bluetooth Adapter - This part is tricky because Windows will connect to bluetooth stuff but doesn't natively HOST bluetooth stuff. This adapter with the included software will fix that and it works but its a tad clunky
  
• Joycon EXR steering wheel interface This guy has a lot of uses, including backup camera control, steering wheel control, and other voltage relay monitors
  
• FM Tuner
  
• USB GPS adapter
  
• USB GPS driver for integrated maps control - GPSDirect
  
• USB to S/PDIF adapter or if you don't plan on using a DSP then a decent USB to RCA DAC
  
  Good luck!
  
  EDIT: as far as software goes Kodi would probably be one of the better choices for software to run on Windows for this purpose.
  

Personally I would save some money on the clone there and instead use that gift card to pick up some quality batteries and/or a charger from Amazon.

Not sure what gear you already have though.

this is the one I use:

https://www.amazon.com/Efest-LUC-V4-Universal-Battery/dp/B00HWMFB9Y

Not bad at all but you will eventually get another set of batteries so you might as well invest into a 4-bay charger for like an extra $5. Those batteries are good but you can save on that as well. Lastly, your mod is great but I stand by the RX200 with the quality and battery life.

RX200: http://www.eciggity.com/reuleaux-rx200-by-jaybo-design-wismec/

Batteries: http://www.illumn.com/18650-samsung-inr18650-25r-r5-2500mah-green-high-discharge-flat-top.html

Charger: http://www.amazon.com/Efest-LUC-V4-Universal-Battery/dp/B00HWMFB9Y

Saved you a few bucks and still getting top of the line stuff. Difference in those three items save you $10, not much but adequate.

> luc v4 "efest" 4 bay charger

https://www.amazon.com/Efest-LUC-V4-Universal-Battery/dp/B00HWMFB9Y

For the most part, monitors will either use an AC power cable like this or a DC power cable like this. There's other plug shapes for both AC and DC power, but for the most part, if there's a big block somewhere on the power cable it's DC, otherwise it's AC

If it's taking DC power, the block should have information written on it about what voltage it's outputting (likely, this will be 5v or 12v). In this case, you can just cut off the power block from the plug, and solder the wires to a molex or sata cable

If it's taking AC power, it's slightly more difficult. Generally, there will be an extra PSU board inside the monitor to convert power to DC power, which won't be necessary in the final build. Often, there will be wires between the PSU and control board that are used for other functions like controlling the backlight which aren't needed, and ultimately only a few wires should actually be required to power everything. These wires are normally labeled on the control board's PCB, but they're often hard to read since most people will never need to look at them; it's definitely a good idea to go slowly and prod at the board with a multi-meter

Immoddernation did a tutorial which covers the AC power option a little bit, in his video he narrowed it down to 5v and ground wires to power the control board, which he soldered to a molex connector. On my build, I needed ground, 3.3v, and 5v, so I bought a sata power extension and soldered the wires to that, since sata supports 3.3v output. If you're comfortable making your own PSU cables from scratch, you could alternately make a connector that plugs straight into the PSU, but imo sata and molex are easier to disconnect quickly, and since they're standard plugs they'll work with any PSU once they're made

Here's the one I used.

I grabbed both the wide angle and the long range versions of this, Love them. I look at my camera monitors then out the window on a moonless night and it is somewhat freaky to see pitch black out the window but see a black and white daylight brightness level thru the cameras.

Narrow / Long range version
Wide angle / short range version
Power packs

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00Q2E5IXW?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd

You don't want to buy the socket for that plug, you want to cut that plug off. You will not find anything off the shelf that this

To create 12 Volts, you need 8 AA batteries in series (one behind the other). This light draws 0.5a, and a AA battery has around 2-3Ah of charge, so 8 batteries should drive this for about 4-6 hours.

This is 8 battery pack

You cut off the car adapter, and connect together red wires and black wires. Must be insulated from each other (simple clear tape would do). Or just bring the parts to the playa, and I'm sure there are 1000's of folks who can help you wire it. Great way to meet new friends!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VE7HBMS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_snqmDbQ60QACS

so lets say I used a 12V battery power supply, connected to a step down for 12V to 5V, connected to the arduino, should i be fine??
Battery: https://www.amazon.com/CO-RODE-Battery-Holder-Wired-Switch/dp/B00VE7HBMS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522627066&sr=8-3&keywords=12+volt+battery+power+supply

Step down: https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Converter-Regulator-Waterproof-Transformer/dp/B01ENT1PPM/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522627182&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=12v+to+5v+step+down+converter&psc=1

Switch out the lenses if you suspect they might be dirty.

Alternatively, take them out and clean them in warm water and soap. I fielded dirty goggles for a while and it was a night and day difference to see through them while clean! :)

Cut the foam out of the vents, too, and try running without a helmet on. Keep your balaclava off your nose if you wear one.

You can also get away with cutting out some rubber from the vents themselves to increase airflow. Be careful with how you do it, though, and be mindful that BBs can enter your goggles at this point.

If none of this works, I recommend some home-rigged fans. [Here's a 30mm (1 inch) 12V micro fan.] (https://www.amazon.com/Gdstime-30mm-Small-Brushless-Cooling/dp/B00MYNX0ZI) You can get a battery pack with switch that has an output of 12V. [Here's a 8x AA battery pack with a nominal output of 12V; even has an on/off switch built in.] (https://www.amazon.com/CO-RODE-Battery-Holder-Wired-Switch/dp/B00VE7HBMS)

AA batteries typically output 1.5V a piece, so 8 of them in a case provides 12V. The small fan should draw no more than 1A. 8x AA batteries should supply at least 400 mAh a piece, so you'll have a total current of at least 3.2A coming from your load. You could safely power 3 fans, and given how efficiently they run, you could probably do so for quite a while. I'd recommend 2 fans wired in parallel with the battery pack, though you may only need 1 fan to do the job.

If you don't know anything about electricity, I could post a common-sense wiring diagram if needed.

1. buy a different solenoid. There are variable voltage ones out there like 3-12v but you will most likely run into the wiimote not supplying enough current to push both the solenoid and rumble motor.
   
   
2. (best option) Use a relay to trigger the 12v off of the 5v rumble if the wii mote rumble is a full 5v pulse/pwm (probably is). Then, use any number of rechargeable 12v battery, 8 1.5v AA eneloop rechargeable batteries, or 3x 14500 lithium ion batteries (11.1v total but would usually be 12v and same size as AA batteries) for the solenoid.
   
   Items:
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Tolako-Arduino-Indicator-Channel-Official/dp/B00VRUAHLE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522213485&sr=8-3&keywords=5v+relay
   
   If you need to save on some space, go with a Solid State Relay like this:
   https://www.amazon.com/G3MB-202P-DC-AC-Solid-State-Module/dp/B01JCPPBI4/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1522213949&sr=1-3&keywords=5v+solid+state+relay
   
   and
   
   https://www.amazon.com/CO-RODE-Battery-Holder-Wired-Switch/dp/B00VE7HBMS/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1522213257&sr=8-8&keywords=small+12v+battery
   
   or
   
   Get this and a 3x AA battery holder for your 11.1 volts
   https://www.amazon.com/WAY%C2%AECharger-2000mAh-Rechargeable-Batteries-Flashlight/dp/B00PIDNTRA/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522213739&sr=1-3&keywords=Lithium-ion+AA
   
   and
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Gfortune-Cable-Plastic-Batteries-Holder/dp/B06XW8QC6N/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522213842&sr=1-3&keywords=3+cell+aa+battery+holder

https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Control-Controller-Adjusting-Computers/dp/B016U2KXCG

this one is cheaper, and I believe that other one might not be supported on win 10

Well then there's no simple way to wire both into the same control with audio cables, that I know of.

If you're running Windows, something like this USB controller should work:

https://smile.amazon.com/DROK-Control-Controller-Adjusting-Computers/dp/B016U2KXCG/

Edit: I'm not recommending that one, it's just the first one I found. I don't have your issue (yet), so I haven't had to solve it myself.

Thanks now I finally understand.

When searching "volume control knob" I've stumbled upon this. Is that what you're looking for?

It's also available without the audio switch but you might want to have that too, at least I'd prefer that extra functionality.

I use this and love it since it charges all of my AA and AAA NiMH batteries too: Opus BT - C3100 V2.2

I highly recommend the opus bc3100

Opus BT - C3100 V2.2 Digital Intelligent 4 Slots LCD Battery Charger Compatible with Li-ion NiCd NiMh Batteries - US Plug (PURPLISH BLUE) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01852TBOU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jSCWzbD6YZ1GK

Am I being dense, but wouldn't something like this fix all your problems?

But the mod I would suggest the coolfire ultra, it feels a lot nicer than the TC100, 4000mah and it's within your budget.

https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Worldwide-Universal-Adaptor-Charging/dp/B01DJ140LQ

https://www.amazon.com/Ceptics-CT-6-Philippines-Travel-Adapter/dp/B01MYBLNR9

​

Sorry I can't embed text links for some reason but,

First link is what I used for anything requiring a 3-prong to 2-prong adapter, size isn't so bad. Also depending on what country you're from you might not need a voltage adapter overall such as US since the voltage difference between US and Japan are negligible. For the simple adapters any will do (second link is an example)

Why not use a something like this?

That way you don't need to worry about voltages problem.

Bestek universal travel adapter

I traveled to South Africa and just used a simple voltage converter and was fine. I also had my laptop, tablet, phone and camera to charge. But sometimes it’s better to be safe than sorry 😊

I have traveled to Ireland, Iceland, UK, Netherlands, Vietnam, Costa Rica, Italy, Dominican Republic, and the Cayman Islands with the travel power adapter listed below. I highly recommend.

​

https://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-Universal-Converter-Charging-Worldwide/dp/B01E140XWA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1542337409&sr=8-4&keywords=travel+power+adapter

Ditto to this. I've become the unofficial photographer for my cohort and school because of the quality of my camera on my phone.

I also brought a video camera that has stayed in my bag 95% of the time since I've gotten here. It's just easier to carry a phone around rather than a camera and a phone.

Also, a surge protector and battery bank will be lifesavers even if your site has electricity. It might not be reliable. The ones below are great.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FPHHNDL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gS5BCbD71A92S

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E140XWA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nU5BCbRJQE4R3

Also, seasonings and snacks...lots of seasonings and snacks...

American here, currently living in the West Midlands (so no local area advice from me for you re: Richmond/London). Ten years ago my wife and step kids moved to the US, and this year we moved back to the UK. Opinions are my own.

• What American things won’t be available in the UK (food, appliances, TV shows/movies)?
  
  These days, especially with Amazon and streaming TV, you can find pretty much anything you'd want. That said, some of it will be pretty pricey. As a brief example, I make my own jerky with beef from the local butcher's because fuck paying $30-$40 a pound for a tiny package. From both my wife and my experience, you will miss local foods/delicacies that just aren't common/popular. You will also discover new foods you've never had a chance to try before. If one/both of you enjoys cooking, you can easily get by. As an example, you won't find American biscuits in the UK.
  
  
• What are the big day-to-day lifestyle things that are different in the UK?
  
  It is a different country, and no one can really tell you what to expect, as experiences are different. I found crossing the street to take some getting used to, as I had 30+ years of ingrained lessons telling me to look the wrong way. You seem adaptable and open minded, which will be a good asset.
  
  
• Will people hate us because we’re American?
  
  No. No matter where you go, people hate assholes. As long as neither of you acts like a stereotypical American/American tourist, you'll be fine, and you will make friends. Respect that it's their country. Be careful about expression absolute opinions about politics, especially their politics. Assimilate and adapt where needed, and you will have no issues preserving your American identity as an "ex-pat" who is well-liked.
  
  
• Will my electronics work there (iphone, ipad, computer)?
  
  By and large yes. Anything that charges via USB is good to go, just buy some wall plugs for your cables. For most modern electronics (laptop/desktop/tv/monitor), they are typically rated to handle the full range of voltages (check on the adapter/power supply etc if you're worried). With a desktop you have to flip a switch on the power supply on your tower from 110 to 220, but with everything else, you just need to cut the plug end off the cable and re-wire it to a British fused plug. I would recommend one of these.
  
  Any appliances like hair dryers, things with simple motors, will NOT work unless you run them through a step down voltage adapter like I linked (unless you like electrical fires) so unless they're especially costly, you're probably better off replacing. Lightbulbs are different as well.
  
  
• How often will I be expected to watch soccer football?
  
  Never if you don't want to. If you are into sports and/or have sporty mates that might be different, but it's not a national religion.
  
  
• What else am I missing or should I know?
  
  How are you moving your stuff to the UK? We used upakweship.com, and it cost $2,500 door to door to ship two pallets. They'll be able to advise you on needed customs clearance, etc.
  
  I assume your partner's work will be arranging/paying for your visas?
  
  You'll have to figure out pet immigration.
  
  Don't call people Sir or Ma'am as a general rule. It's weird and is more likely to convey insult than offense. If you do slip, people will find it quaint.
  
  Since VAT is applied to products before pricing, instead of having to calculate sales tax on top of your purchase, if you have 5 quid in your pocket, you can buy 5 quid worth of things at the store.
  
  Public transport is generally better than in most major US cities, so that's a major plus.
  
  If you have any follow up questions I'd be happy to answer.

I bought one of these https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E140XWA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1. I was able to charge my phone, wife's 5x, and her laptop without any issues.

Also, get Google Fi while you're abroad. My wife and I had a pretty good experience with it in Europe and Africa last year.

Perfect, that's exactly what I was hoping. So if I were to use something like this to supply the power and split it inside the enclosure, that should work right?

This should work for 5m for power, but do you have a controller?

Something like this will work: https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Adjustable-Converter-Step-down-Regulator/dp/B00D3FG5K8/ ($8.40)

Alternatively, if you know the Vf of the LED, you can use a constant voltage switching regulator and set its output to the Vf of the LED. https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-MP1584EN-Converter-Adjustable-Module/dp/B01MQGMOKI/ ($10 for 6)

Personally I would run 3x18650 for this project. When fully charged they are 4.2 volts. 12.6V will probably be fine for the light and hopefully it will keep on running down to 10V when the batteries are mostly dead.

Otherwise you'll want to use 4x18650 and a cheap buck converter to step the 16V down to 12V.

edit: To clarify don't buy any 18650 batteries from amazon. It is too easy for fakes to be commingled into the product stream. I have a list of legit cells stickied at 18650masterrace.

this one has multiple lines on it. Maybe you could even find a 12v/5v one (so there's no extra stuff floating around) - you have 3 channels on your power supply, so you can run power and ground for each voltage you need (the 24v line runs direct to the supply).


e: another option - you can get two of these, then just use a multimeter to tune them to the voltage you need. As long as your amperage needs don't exceed 3 (most components are well under that).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MQGMOKI/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1525364823&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dc+dc+buck+converter

Put one in between your fan and power source

I can tell you from personal experience that the Flirc case is legit! I use it with an OC'ed pi @ 1350\525 and have yet to see temps rise above 60c! The catch is though, instead of using the thermal pad they include with the case, I use a small copper shim with thermal paste on both sides interfacing the soc and case, respectively. It's solid too, not like those cheapy acrylic cases! Plus you won't have to deal with any annoying fan noise!

As far as a ps goes, I use this:
https://www.amazon.com/NorthPada-Raspberry-Supply-Charger-Adapter/dp/B01N336XEU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1510362231&sr=1-1&keywords=raspberry+pi+power+supply+3a

Edit:
To answer you original question: No, using a 2.5a ps with an OC'ed pi will either work or it won't be able to supply enough juice causing oddities or crashes... it will not "burnout the components" as the pi has a polyfuse so you will pop that before anything else.

if your like me and your constantly adding /removing changing games whatever , this is a must

https://www.amazon.com/NorthPada-Raspberry-Supply-Charger-Adapter/dp/B01N336XEU

Purchase guide? You mean like a list of stuff you need?

You need the bare board, like this, not saying buy this one because the price is a bit high, but just the board like this will suffice. I don't see any reason to get the B+ that just came out, but if it's the same price as a B go ahead. Microcenter has Pi3 B on sale right now for $30. Arrow Electronic often has them for $25-$30 and free overnight shipping on orders over $25.


You need a power supply. A lot of people use phone chargers and that works, but they may not give you a real 2.5a which can lead to more heat and throttling under load. Not sure if that's a problem with Octoprint - I think the bottleneck that limits Octopring performance is elsewhere. I have used this brand of dedicated power supply on several Pi builds and never had a problem. 3a in higher than most chargers. But I normally get a version without the in-line power switch - which seems to be gone from Amazon.

And you need a MicroSD card. Class 10 is preferred, but by no means necessary. And the size of SD card you get will be the size of the library of files you can store on the Raspberry Pi. However, the interface for navigating through a large cache of files through the OctoPrint interface isn't so good, so therefor the size of the card you need may really only be 8GB or less as you'll probably delete files off the card once you print them. 8GB is a crap load of GCode files and scrolling down a list of 10 files is annoying, much less 1GB worth, much much less 6+ GB (on an 8GB card).

And you'll want a case, but you might just want to print one rather than buy one. Cases are really a preference thing. For buyable cases I love C4 Labs acrylic cases.

You might want some heat sinks. Every Pi case I've ever bought (like 7 at this point) came with heat sinks. Here's some over priced copper ones. But I have been running my Octopi for three weeks solid, printing 8-12 hours per day, and I don't have any heat sinks on it. I don't think Octoprint really needs heatsinks, but many people will tell you to get them anyway because cheap insurance and all that. The $16 Flirc case acts as a heatsink itself.

There are appropriate power bricks(2.5a+, 5v) that have a power toggle. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/NorthPada-Raspberry-Supply-Charger-Adapter/dp/B01N336XEU?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2
(Havnt used it, I've just seen it around when looking for the 'same thing' you are)

If your not looking to change the case out for one with buttons, like you had mentioned, your options are a shutdown script macro key/'manual' shutdown + something like that or doing something with the gpio pins and a custom switch to have with the existing case, hope it's something to consider sorry if I wasn't much help

This is the switch I bought and works great:

https://www.amazon.com/NorthPada-Raspberry-Supply-Charger-Adapter/dp/B01N336XEU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1498302064&sr=8-3&keywords=power+switch+for+raspberry+pi+3

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N336XEU/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/SoulBay-Universal-Switching-Selectable-Electronics/dp/B01N7RS0NG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541990342&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=variable+voltage+acdc+adapter

This will do, providing your elliptical takes one of the included tips. Set it to 9v and you're good to go.

Try something like this https://www.amazon.com/SoulBay-Universal-Switching-Selectable-Electronics/dp/B01N7RS0NG/ref=pd_sbs_421_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01N7RS0NG&pd_rd_r=Z7S0FB64TPV36BEEEMW7&pd_rd_w=I88Fv&pd_rd_wg=fMZ8r&psc=1&refRID=Z7S0FB64TPV36BEEEMW7&dpID=51UOyUkeeqL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail


Or just look at old unused power blocks for other electronics to find one that is 12v and minimum 1.8 amp output, the amps could be higher and stilll work but has to b 12v

I was all ready to post this https://www.amazon.com/SoulBay-Universal-Switching-Selectable-Electronics/dp/B01N7RS0NG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1520274686&sr=8-2&keywords=variable+dc+power+supply&dpID=51UOyUkeeqL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch then I saw it says 16V.

https://www.amazon.com/SoulBay-Universal-Switching-Selectable-Electronics/dp/B01N7RS0NG/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1506451136&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=ac%2Fdc+power+adapter+12v+27w

This would get you very close, it's slightly under powered. Do you have the specs on what the adapter is powering?

This one would also work, but it could supply too much amperage if the device is shorting or having other electrical issues.

https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Transformers-Supply-Output-Listed/dp/B00DKSI0S8/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1506451264&sr=1-1&keywords=ac%2Fdc+power+adapter+12v+3a

Edit: Either way, you could replace the end with the one from your adapter if they do not fit, assuming you know how to crimp or preferably solder and shrink tube.

I use an adjustable power supply I got off Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N7RS0NG?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

Just because streamers use something, doesn't mean it will be good for you. I'm sure it's a good mouse, but you might not like it.

However, if you are interested in that kind, the G305 is better if you use a chargable lithium battery like this and any AAA to AA adapter, or an aluminum foil ball. Instead of just a regular AA battery. It's the same thing but wireless, and Logitech wireless performs the same as wired, so you don't have to worry about disconnect or latency.

Pick up a G305. Also grab some lithium AAs as they last an insane amount of time and are lighter than normal AAs. I personally use a lithium AAA with half of one of these adapters to make it even lighter but the AA is already a massive decrease in weight.

It's a solid mouse with the same body shape as the Logitech G Pro (not the Pro Wireless, which is a totally different shape) and it's great for small/medium hands. That said I have large hands but claw grip and I love mine.

If you're new to buying mice, wireless and light mice might seem like "nice to haves" but especially for FPS games I feel they're imperative. As soon as it's in your hand and you play a match you'll understand. This is a great site to learn about solid mice and read/watch reviews on ones you'll be recommended like the G305.

This mouse is amazing. I upgraded from the G203 to the G305 (same shape, but the G305 is wireless) and it is amazing. I would recommend getting some AA to AAA battery covers to reduce weight, it does help a lot. Or you can just use foil. The only thing this mouse lacks is RGB, but RGB on a mouse isn't too important to me

Link to AA to AAA: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D6RDQ3S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Haven't seen or touched this model, but this is the site you found yourself, probably

Doesn't say anything about being a smart charger and the specs say:

>Output 29.4V 1.0A

So most likely an 30V 1A charger will work. Only question that remains is what plug it has. I guess it's a standard 4mm?

Anyway, P = V*I, so a 30W universal charger should probably also work. Something like this.

All that's left then is to figure out which pole should be positive and which negative (screw that up and it will probably short out either the board or the adapter or both). It's probably positive inside and negative outside, but any Blink lite owner with an adapter could verify that for you with a multimeter.

The issue may not be the voltage or amperage, but transient variations that drop below or above those required by the Atomic Pi.

That PSU has been reported by at least one other user to have caused problems and I had two regular 500W computer PSUs do the same. You have a couple of options: try another Atomic Pi with that PSU OR try another PSU with your current Atomic Pi. I gave up on two expensive PSU's for a cheap ($9 USD ~ https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4HYWAM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) on all 4 of my Kuri boards with a small power board ($7 USD ~ https://www.amazon.com/Breakout-Adapter-2-5mm-Barrel-Supply/dp/B07RPQN1Z7/ref=sr_1_9?)

TL;DR -- However, personally I use a with a "Filtered" small power board (after several power supply problems) ~ (https://www.reddit.com/r/Atomic_Pi/comments/cmy6ix/another_power_board_design/) that uses a Torroid Coil, fuse, protective diode, and 2 capacitors. Since using the latter board, I have had no issues with any of my 4 boards for months.

I have not used those specific ones (I looked at the specs, should be fine), but yes, $18 for 5 is a very good deal!

As far as LED strip those are the ones I got:

30 LED / METER:

https://www.amazon.com/Aclorol-Individually-Addressable-Programmable-Non-Waterproof/dp/B07BGSZLGX/ref=sr_1_6?crid=2ANNEXM84Q95&keywords=ws2812b+led+strip&qid=1563212133&s=hi&sprefix=ws2812%2Ctools%2C144&sr=1-6

60 LED / METER

https://www.amazon.com/Aclorol-Individually-Addressable-Programmable-Non-waterproof/dp/B07BH37JGC/ref=sr_1_4?crid=36ERKIO6X2IRZ&keywords=ws2812b+led+strip+60%2Fm&qid=1563212170&s=hi&sprefix=ws2812b+led+strip+60%2Ctools%2C141&sr=1-4

(you do not always need 60 LEDs per meter!!)

​

Power Adapters:

4A:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4HYWAM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

2A:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0777HWN87/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

And to keep it all clean:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XNR1ZVL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

I pulled all those from my Amazon orders! Hope it helps.

I'm working on an arcade1up mod using linux mint and retropie on the "Atomic Pi" x86 sbc ($40).

https://photos.app.goo.gl/DQnRKGDkdztzrmHTA

It's not easy playing with one hand :)

​

Atomic Pi SBC https://www.amazon.com/Atomic-Pi-High-Speed-Peripheral/dp/B07N298F2B

Breakout Board (small) https://www.amazon.com/Breakout-Adapter-2-5mm-Barrel-Supply/dp/B07RPQN1Z7/

Power Adapter https://www.amazon.com/SMAKN-Switching-Supply-Adapter-100-240/dp/B01N4HYWAM/

Arcade1up Killer Instinct Graphics kit https://www.escapepodonline.com/collections/arcade1up/products/arcade1up-killer-instinct-complete-art-kit


optional* Arcade1up Street Fighter control deck https://arcade1up.com/collections/control-decks/products/street-fighter-control-deck


note* lcd controller, joysticks, buttons, audio amplifier can be used from other retropie/arcade1up guides.

You use a AAA lithium ion battery and either a piece of aluminum foil or a AA to AAA adapter which will bring it down to 80 grams. Shouldn't be a noticeable different between that and some "shitty" mouse that is apparently one of the lightest out.

Thanks, I've seen this one and their shipping is like another 12, do you think a 5v/4a will suffice? Is there harm in trying it? like it will screw up my system?

This is the one I already ordered but I can send it back:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4HYWAM/ref=ox_ya_os_product

Is it a bad choice?

Energizer Lithium AAA and AAA to AA Converter. You can find cheaper prices than the links provided, these are just the first listings on Amazon.

I used to be a G502 palm user at 18.5x9 but took a chance on the small ambidextrous g305 and while at first use it felt a bit odd this mouse has just been fucking incredible for me. I can't get away from it, I have tried to use other ergonomic mice and just cant, they never feel as natural to me. I did switch my grip up to a more claw shape and that made it just as comfortable as ergo.

I also have had it for about 3 months now and it is still at 100% charge...I mean what black magic fuckery did Logitech use on this mouse?

I have since recommended it to friends and they love its shape and weight. If you do go for the g305 I suggest picking up these two items from amazon: AAA converter - Energizer Ultimate Lithium AAA Batteries.

This will save on weight and it doesn't seem to hurt the battery life at all.

>I’ll probably just get the G305 with an Energizer ultimate lithium AA battery, so thanks for your advice.




Hey no problem, I hope all goes well. But I would urge you to go for the AAA with a converter. With a AA, the mouse is really back-heavy, which would be especially annoying with a claw grip. With a AAA in a converter, it's much more balanced. Here is a link to the ones I use. $6 for an 8-pack and two day shipping if you have prime. This mouse uses such a miniscule amount of power that the loss of battery life isn't even a problem.

I would go higher than 2.5a

I have had zero issues with this

SMAKN DC 5V/4A 20W Switching... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4HYWAM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Obviously, wrong prongs but at that price + an adapter may be cheaper ?

You could also use a AAA battery with this. Thats personally what I use and the weight distribution feels very close to the G-pro.

Amazon has a Prime-able supply for $9 here that looks like it would fit the 2.5mm jack on the breakout board.

​

I don't have the breakout, and had some 2.1mm jacks lying around, so ended up ordering a 5A, 2.1mm supply for $14 that came with an inline jack from Amazon here.

What you are looking for is a universal wall charger, like this ONE.

Found it, looks good! I guess including "barrel" in my search earlier didn't help me. Doesn't say if it's UL listed or anything though.

raspberry pi 3, SATA add-on board, 120g SSD, 5v 4a power brick, nice case.

add-on board:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073CGQD9C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ssd:
https://www.amazon.com/Patriot-Memory-Burst-120GB-Internal/dp/B07574MTR4/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=120gb+ssd+patriot&qid=1554437313&s=gateway&sr=8-1

power:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4HYWAM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

case:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GRZRW7J/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I know Amazon sells universal charging cords with interchangeable plugs. I'm sure as long as it's a common plug you'll find it in the set of plugs they give you with something like this https://www.amazon.com/SoulBay-Universal-Switching-Selectable-Electronics/dp/B01N7RS0NG/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=universal+charger&qid=1574025475&sprefix=universal+cha&sr=8-4

Just check the specs that should be listed on the brick of your existing charging cord to make sure you properly set the voltage on a universal one like I showed as they have an adjustable voltage.

So I have this harddrive enclosure, but I'm missing the power cable. On newegg the specifications are "Dual 12V & 5V DC Adaptor". However, I'm not sure what exactly I need to achieve that. Will a universal power cable work? For example: https://www.amazon.com/SoulBay-Universal-Switching-Selectable-Electronics/dp/B01N7RS0NG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1501625510&sr=8-3&keywords=12V+%26+5V+DC+power+supply

If you ask a question, and someone answers it correctly, reply with a thank you, but include this checkmark: ✓ ( or if you cannot enter Unicode, use !check instead )

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In case you missed it, click here for yesterday's Daily Simple Questions thread.
There may be some questions still unanswered! Below are a selection of questions with no replies. See if you can help them out.

If you don't want to see this comment click the little [-] to the left of my username to collapse this comment.

----

> So I have this harddrive enclosure, but I'm missing the power cable. On newegg the specifications are "Dual 12V & 5V DC Adaptor". However, I'm not sure what exactly I need to achieve that. Will a universal power cable work? For example: https://www.amazon.com/SoulBay-Universal-Switching-Selectable-Electronics/dp/B01N7RS0NG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1501625510&sr=8-3&keywords=12V+%26+5V+DC+power+supply

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6qwgrw/daily_simple_questions_thread_aug_01_2017/dl17ooz

----

> I use auto replay mode, so i can automatically save something i did, but how i can turn off the push to talk mode so it would be continious?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6qwgrw/daily_simple_questions_thread_aug_01_2017/dl19m1a

----

> In shadowplay I use auto replay mode, so i can automatically save something i did, but how i can turn off the push to talk mode so it would be continious?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6qwgrw/daily_simple_questions_thread_aug_01_2017/dl19mp0

----

> Hi. I am attempting to build the Annihilator from last week, using an i5 and an ASUS TUF Z270 Mark 2.
>
> I got it up and running. While waiting for the graphics card to arrive, I tried to get an older GTX 970 running. It wasn't recognized by the system in BIOS or Windows.
>
> I tried to update the BIOS. This is where it all went to hell. I chose the most recent BIOS. The process started. I left the room. When I came back, the PC was off. When I turned it on, nothing. Blank screen.
>
> The ASUS TUF Z270 Mark 2 has something called Crash Free BIOS 3, where you insert the driver disc or a USB formatted to FAT32 with a previous BIOS. I tried both of these options and nothing. (There is a BD-ROM drive, and it accepts the disc and does something to it, but nothing happens). I tried several USB ports with the USB BIOS and nothing.
>
> I sent tech support to ASUS and they gave me back a useless answer that really didn't address what I said about the problem above.
>
> What can I do here? Any help is appreciated.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6qwgrw/daily_simple_questions_thread_aug_01_2017/dl1db56

----

> Is 1920-1950 MHz a good clock speed for a GTX 1080?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6qwgrw/daily_simple_questions_thread_aug_01_2017/dl1e7t9

----

> hey everyone, looking for some suggestions for a external hardrive or sdd to connect to my phone. Main purpose is for putting anime,tv shows and movies on it to use with my phone when on long flights and traveling. Has to be small for carrying purposes and in Canadian currency please. Thanks!

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6qwgrw/daily_simple_questions_thread_aug_01_2017/dl1ic86

----

> How do you guys play games when you don't have anything in the desktop? Taskbar? Search bar? Rainmeter?
>
> And can you tell me how to take the stuff in the desktop?
>
> It does reduce lag right?
>
> Sorry for the stupid question I'm just really curious

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6qwgrw/daily_simple_questions_thread_aug_01_2017/dl1nglh

----

> Should I get the 1080 ti rog strix or the oc edition? I don't know the performance difference, anyone help?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6qwgrw/daily_simple_questions_thread_aug_01_2017/dl1o9ly

----

> Which is the difference between the ASUS GTX 1070 DUAL and the ASUS GTX 1070 ROG? Is it just the extra fan?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6qwgrw/daily_simple_questions_thread_aug_01_2017/dl26fn6

----

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OK. Well, a real variable power supply will be very expensive. If you want to save money you would be better off buying a new supply every time you need a different voltage. If you want you could buy several in one package.

The reason for this is simply economics of scale. Millions of people will need a 10V power supply, so they are dirt cheap. Only a couple people need a variable supply, so even though it would be pretty cheap to make a million of them no one will do it since they can't sell a million of them.

Set this to 5V and use the plug that fits, call it a day.

https://www.amazon.com/SoulBay-Universal-Switching-Selectable-Electronics/dp/B01N7RS0NG

Edit: If none of the plugs fit, cut and strip the wires from the molex and use the terminal adapter. Top one pictured, green with screws. Make sure you know the polarity, a pin out of the Molex connector will help.

Oh nice! Something like this?

I should have known products like this would be out there.

9V with the center pin negative. They sell universal DC adapters with different connectors on them. You'd need to measure the diameter with some calipers to get the exact one.

12u Royal rack. It comes on wheels, which is a plus for me. Also grab yourself a rack mount power switch These are really nice to have for power cycling devices, and they look cool too.

any rack mount AC switch found for 30 $

https://www.amazon.com/American-Pc-100A-Mount-Power-Switcher/dp/B0002GL50Q/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1509683878&sr=1-1-fkmr0&keywords=american+dj+rack+mount+AC+switch

I've been using these power strips for awhile now on my labs and they are very handy.

http://www.amazon.com/American-DJ-PC-100A-Channel-Lighted/dp/B0002GL50Q

looks to be this switch

https://www.amazon.com/American-Pc-100A-Mount-Power-Switcher/dp/B0002GL50Q

I did try doing this (turning the master output on the Zed mixer down to infinity) and the voltage change still causes the "pop" in the speakers. I'll probably invest in a on/off switch strip like this in order to avoid the evil "pop".

Which conversion cables are you referring to?

Here's my planned setup. From the wall socket which is a NEMA 14-30R I plan on plugging the following PDU into it https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Outlets-Rack-Mount-PDU1230/dp/B0007YG85A

with the following adapter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077V2JSVV/

Now the question is do i need to use any special PSU cables? Should I use the C19 ports on the PDU or are the standard C13 cables fine?

I plan on running 5 rigs, each rig is pulling about 750 from the wall when plugged into a standard 110 wall outlet.

Could use one of these adapters along with one of these PDU's. We use a similar setup with an unused NEMA 14-50 outlet.

For power, you'll want to go with 220v (it's more efficient). You'll need to know the draw for your power supply and the load (amps) it puts on the circuit. For example 1400w @ 220v = ~6.36amp. Because it's constant draw, you don't want to exceed 80% of the circuit's max capacity.

For my units, I installed 2 x 30amp 220v breakers in my panel and used a few PDU's (https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Outlets-Rack-Mount-PDU1230/dp/B0007YG85A/) with a NEMA L6-30P connecters and C14 to C13 power cables that connect it to the power supplies.

So please someone correct me if I'm wrong. I believe you need a L6-30r recepticle with a L6-30p pdu and use c13 to c14 cables preferably 14awg. [Cable] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0027JTJ22/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1522540645&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=c13+to+c14+power+cord) [pdu] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0007YG85A/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522540759&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=tripplite+pdu&dpPl=1&dpID=31M8t%2BMq9yL&ref=plSrch)

This was the UPS that was purchased. https://www.cdw.com/product/APC-Smart-UPS-SRT-6000VA-RM-UPS-6000-Watt-6000-VA/3590615?cm_ven=email&cm_cat=ET_BC&cm_pla=MKT14Q076adu0000p0000&cm_ite=MKT14Q076_20180201_TRIG_PRODCATCH_0_CTRL_A&etsi=12258963&etsu=&obem=r6tIoIA1Z0S7QJ6YyY4EeD30ItfeRgzMhoxC7JcVWmc%3D

As for a rack we have a single rail rack about 6 foot tall. Nothing special. The company I work for is moving their servers back in house so they never had a heavy duty rack. Currently holds our ASA, Switch, PBX system, and a couple other odds & ends.

The PDU I was looking at on amazon is here - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007YG85A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Thanks for all of this!

I just bought a DP-300F in Germany, I was looking through the manual and saw that it only takes 120V as input.
Could I get by with just purchasing one of these?

https://www.amazon.com/Bright-VC500W-Voltage-Transformer-converter/dp/B000MX1QXA/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1485076797&sr=1-8&keywords=220+to+120+voltage+converter

Thanks

So would this work then?

https://www.amazon.com/Bright-VC500W-Voltage-Transformer-converter/dp/B000MX1QXA/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=500+watt+converter&qid=1562892085&s=gateway&sr=8-3

All you need is a transformer to step down voltage.

Something like this
http://www.amazon.com/Bright-VC500W-Voltage-Transformer-converter/dp/B000MX1QXA

or this http://www.amazon.com/Rockstone-Power-Voltage-Transformer-Converter/dp/B00CLYFNU0/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1416943374&sr=8-5&keywords=240v+to+120v

Many thanks

Looking at the part lists, I think it is not worth it to source and swap all the individual components!

I may consider the step-down converter indeed. Any particular model/brand to recommend?
There are many variants of this on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Bright-VC500W-Voltage-Transformer-converter/dp/B000MX1QXA
Good enough to use the sewing machine a couple of times a week?
THX

I looked at the manual for your receiver, and it two things make me think it will not work on 240V

• No voltage selector switch on the back
  
  
• Specifically says it has an analog power supply
  
  You will need a step down transformer like this
  

I bought this off of amazon and it works ok. I don't use it as much as I was using it in Turkey but haven't had problems so far (almost one year later).

The shape of the plug is different because the receiver uses 220/240 volts instead of the United States standard 110 volts, so you can't just get an adapter to plug it into a standard outlet. Assuming you don't want to rewire your wall outlet to put out 220 volts, you'd have to use some form of step up transformer like this to get the proper voltage.

I am buying a couple 220V/240V essential oil diffusers, pretty small, you think this will work?
http://www.amazon.com/Goldsource-STU-500-Voltage-Converter-Transformer/dp/B0022QOSDK/

Where is this shit made? If Europe you need a step up converter. Anyway play safe and if you are unsure just get a converter. Check the power draw and typically you can use a power strip to get more outlets. I use a US step down to Japanese for some Japanese arcade cabs and step up for Amiga cd32. All else fails rtfm, they usually have power specs.

Something like this is nice to have around
https://www.amazon.com/Goldsource-STU-500-Voltage-Converter-Transformer/dp/B0022QOSDK

you can try something like this https://www.amazon.com/Goldsource-STU-500-Voltage-Converter-Transformer/dp/B0022QOSDK/ref=sr_1_14?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1496634862&sr=1-14&keywords=POWER+CONVERTER


but you really need to do some research on the specific power needs of your slow cooker and the Chinese power grid to know specifically what you need... or buy on from a country that uses 220.



-Chinese power grid facts 220V 50Hz



-US Power grid facts 120V 60Hz



-Slow cooker need to knows(look for a sticker with numbers like 120V ~ 60Hz ~ 275W

-voltage range covered - this is the number or number range followed buy the V for those that dont know

-Frequency range covered - this is the Hz number or number range - i am unsure what effect using a cooker meant only for 60Hz on 50Hz will have but it will most likely not heat correctly or track time correctly

-Wattage of the cooker - this is the number followed by the W - very important if you get a converter as it needs to be able to handle around 50% more then the wattage of the cooker or you can overload the converter

Yeah, the Xbox One power supply is rated for 100-120V or 220-240V so you can't just plug it straight into the wall. Also, since it draws quite a bit of power, you can't just use any "travel power converters" either, because you will blow a fuse. Notice, I said CONVERTER and not adapter.

So in short you have two options:

a) buy a power converter (also known as a transformer) that is adequate. I use this one, but I go in reverse i.e. US Xbox One in a European country:

http://www.amazon.com/Goldsource%C2%AE-Voltage-Converter-Transformer-ST500/dp/B0022QOSDK/

b) Just buy a US power supply for the Xbox One. It can be ordered through Xbox support (also on the website I believe) and you can also try GameStop!

I recommend to buy a US power supply instead of the converter as it is loud, bulky and heavy. I only got it, because at the time in parts of Europe where I was, the Xbox One hadn't released, which means no power supply available.

Also of note, is in my excitement I completely forgot about the voltage difference and plug it into the wall. Needless to say, the whole house tripped a fuse, and the room smelled funky. The power supply had to be replaced, and Amazon was nice enough to exchange it free of charge, but I had to wait an excruciating month!

Most home theater devices, receivers especially, are NOT dual voltage. I am in the US military and am currently overseas so dual voltage electronics are very important to me. I found an international version of Yamaha's Aventege series, called the RX-V2067 and it has a nice little voltage selector switch. Back to your question, it is going to be very hard to find a dual voltage home theater system for $400. My solution to your issue: just buy a transformer (like this one).

anyways i placed an order for this converter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0022QOSDK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AU5MW0P13QZ5V
edit:got an answer from thrustmaster:
Regarding your VG T300 Alcantara Ed..
Thank you for reaching Thrustmaster Technical Support.

In this case, all you need is a new power cable, since the wheel has an internal power supply that switches from 220 to 110 and vice-versa automatically.

The price for a new EU 220V power cable is: 22.60€ (EUR) with shipping included.

so i am really confused :(

This is the one that I used (i think): http://www.amazon.com/Replacement-adapter-charger-Benq-Monitors/dp/B003Z6ZR5O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1400337656&sr=8-3&keywords=12v+5a I think they come with the barrel plug but need the 12 volt supply

Oh, i got the mb42, great speakers, saw they are now 60 bucks, but were 50 bucks a few months ago, so either they've gone up or typical amazon price fluctuating. Not sure it's worth getting the x version, the regular ones sound great at that size and price point - they have a crossover but not sure it's going to make huge difference in that package.

I got this amp: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049P6OTI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
lp2020A+

I needed a power supply for an external drive and that one worked so I stepped up to this for the amp to squeeze out most of the watts in the amp: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003Z6ZR5O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

When I got it they were: 50 speakers, 20 amp, 6.50 power supply and it makes a very nice budget system - loud enough for a normal sized room and good quality.

I believe that's only at higher volumes, and it's fixed by replacing the power source/cord. I use this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003Z6ZR5O/

the MB42x - Lepai 2020A+ combo is a good cheap solution. I recommend that you upgrade the power supply on the Lepai though.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003Z6ZR5O?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

This one works great. I use it on my 2020+ and the sound is definitely improved in the low end.

Also, the 2020+ has and RCA input which should work with most TVs. This would give you considerably better sound than any "in box" 2.1 setups.

In terms of a subwoofer, the Miccas already go pretty low so you might not need a sub at first depending on preference. Also, avoid the aux input on the Lepai... it's a little shoddy.

It is just an alternate powersupply that has more amperage. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003Z6ZR5O/

Class II Transformer - 24 Volt AC, 40 VA, UL/CSA Approved : MGT-2440 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004VMVDTA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uokhDb4N2QHDY

Corner cutting... Not a severe hazard with LV wiring, but just kind of a cruddy thing to do. Older furnace?

I'm using a 24VAC 40VA transformer for my hello, and it's the only thing on the wire.

Honestly, I'd probably get a more powerful transformer. They're relatively inexpensive. If you have experience working with 120VAC, you can get very inexpensive transformers. If not, or you don't want to mess with it, you can get plug-in transformers for a bit more that have the same little screw terminals, and you can just move the wire, assuming there's an outlet near enough to reach.

I got mine on amazon for $20, they're cheaper than that now.
Here's the link to the one I got, but there are lots of options...

https://www.amazon.com/Class-II-Transformer-Approved-MGT-2440/dp/B004VMVDTA/

EDIT: And just to add:

I had a lower power 16vac transformer originally (slightly above minimum spec for the Hello, and had problems with the Nest -- Chime wouldn't work, and would buzz instead of ding.) The chimes themselves have a pretty good power draw, so often the minimum spec for the Hello not enough (or barely enough) unless you're not using a chime on the circuit.

Was it just a 24v wall transformer, something like https://www.amazon.com/Class-II-Transformer-Approved-MGT-2440/dp/B004VMVDTA ?

Just bought one of these https://www.amazon.com/Class-II-Transformer-Approved-MGT-2440/dp/B004VMVDTA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1481043700&sr=8-4&keywords=class+2+transformer

And bought some new thermostat wire - https://www.amazon.com/Coleman-Cable-Thermostat-18-Gauge-5-Conductor/dp/B0026H8L7E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1481044119&sr=8-2&keywords=thermostat+wire+18+5

I split the thermostat cable so that I could run two of the wires to where I plugged the transformer in, near my furnace, connected two new wires to the furnace and then used the old thermostat wire to run the whole new wire up to the thermostat location. Of course you could just leave your existing wires in place and only run the new wires for the transformer... but I found using the old wire and pulling it through was the only way I could run the new wire anyway.

Then connect the wires... I forget which terminals I've used, will have to look tonight when I get home.

Hey, wow didn't even know about inbox replies. Appreciate it

I purchased the same 24v relay but with the ground: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004VMVDTA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And this ice cube relay:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PZXGHZY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used your wiring scheme and it worked fine (then I unplugged and let die) but I was just testing without it hooked to my HVAC system and was able to get the relay to engage. Now after plugging back in I am getting a variety of wiring errors and the nest restarting.

Let me know if you think it is diagnosable or should provide more info. Appreciate the help.

I actually ended up getting it to work with this.

It looks like your best bet to power the Ecobee is to buy one of these or similar. It won't be the best cosmetic solution, but it will function well.

The plan is to have the whole setup being run from one or two 12v dry cells, the kind that are used in UPS back-up systems.


I can pretty easily get power to the relay boards from a separate 5v source like this and I'll just get a 2nd one for pi itself.

Thanks for your input!

Something like this may be the easiest.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BMIVFK8

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/12v-to-5v-usb

Physics doesn't care what you have on hand, 10W+ from USB just isn't going to happen.

These aren't too big and SLA is by far the cheapest route. It would run the Pi and screen for hours on a charge.

Run the Pi on something like this.

I'd wire it to a lighter plug and then have a socket connected to the battery, that way you could just unplug it and plug it into the car.

From what I've seen, Mausberry has sold out of the car power supply switches. I get the feeling they've moved onto new stuff and won't be making more of them, but I'd be okay with being wrong about that.

I have that same TFT touchscreen thing, and am looking to put it together in my car as well (though I may use an /r/ODroid C1 instead of an RPi, but that's another discussion).

From a different online discussion of Pi Carputers (don't have a link handy, if I find it, I'll edit it in later), I found a 12V to 5V USB power converter (here's an example: http://www.amazon.com/Autek-Converter-convert-adapter-DCCON-5U-0/dp/B00BMIVFK8/) which can provide always-on or switched power.

There are several discussions of using GPIO to cue the RPi to gracefully shut itself off, especially on StackExchange (http://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/). There's just a lot of homework to do here.

I got this one with dual female usb cables and ran two usb male to mini usb male cables to power both cameras from the single inverter.

I got this (it used to ship with prime) 12v-5v inverter with a single female usb cable to provide power for my Nexus 7 install—whenever I get around to that.

If you get an inverter with dual usb cables, it splits the power output between the two, but if you get one with a single usb cable, you'll get the full power of the inverter to your device.

The dashcams don't need much power to run, but the Nexus 7 will need all that it can get to stay charged while multitasking.

And speaking of...
> UEL headers

Look what just showed up at my door today! http://i.imgur.com/AvzIAhd.jpg

Yes, you can split the 12v DC rail from the screen and downvolt one of them to 5v using something like this and run that to USB. I was working on doing just this with mine but instead opted for a battery pack that had the needed 5v2.1a USB out and a 12vDC out on one 20000mAh battery unit to make it portable.

I really like my Mobius Action cam (Wide angle). It's really easy once it is set up, and I would consider it to be a easy-meduim install for someone who is handy with car wiring. This is a post i made awhile ago on here with some info:

You can see day and night examples from mine at these links: Day / Night
also, here is a recent post on /r/JusticePorn where the road rager behind me crashes at the end: Link

I would consider adhesive mounts. Worst case, you can get residue off windows with some solvent. It's not easier, but it's not an issue if you want it up all the time.

PM me with any questions if you want.

I am talking about my rear setup, but its the same for the front:

Pictures of the install: Link (if you have RES and the last pic is rotated incorrectly, just click the picture)

It is a Mobius ActionCam: Link

To install, I powered it by tapping the radio fuse and running the positive wire back to the rear seat under the door sills. I connected it to this 12V DC to USB converter: Link

I found the correctly angled MiniUSB cable and ran it up to the window: Link

I got an adhesive mount because I didn't want it to ever fall off in the heat like some suction cups can. Also, the defroster lines on the window would prevent a suction. I got the "CH-358" from this page: Link

There are also 2 pictures of the front camera in that album. It was installed in roughly the same manner, but I used a different angled USB cable and a lower profile adhesive mount.

I have used the luc v4 for years now. The one in the link is like $23. I'm not sure if its the best option for you, but its still doing good by me. As far as coils go I'm having a difficult time finding pre built coils for "decent" price. Anything is better than what my local store is offering tho. $3-4.50 for two coils is insane. So if you find a trusted site that has a large quantity for a decent price shoot me a link. I found one the other day that was great, but I've lost it. :/

> Istick tc100w

Heres the thing. By design USB charging should be fine. But a lot of these manufacturers dont think the situuation all the way through. USB charging is fine iun a pinch but standalone chargers have too many pros for me. My LUC v4 chargers faster, has a more accurate reading, and can charge faster than a mods built in.

Sure you can use USB charging. But there are a lot of instances of them exploding and I havent seen a battery charger explode. Just stop functioning. So you can if you want. There are plenty of people who use USB just fine and dont die. Maybe the TC100 has better USB. But if you decide to get a second set of batteries you'll want that 4 bay charger.

TL;DR You can if you want. But we dont recommend it.

Efest LUC V4 LCD Universal Battery Charger for 10440 / 18350 / 14430 / 14500 / 18500 / 16650 / 18650 / 26650, Purple https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HWMFB9Y/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_UI0-wbHJWG424

Sorry about the long write up. This is a copy paste from when I posted to someone else.

​

I don't know what head lamp or flash light your using but I recommend you switch over to using 18650 batteries. Batteries are a little heavier and bigger than the normal AA, but they last a lot longer and are rechargeable.

​

Everything you need to switch will run you about 25 for the charger, 40-50 on the headlamp, 40-50 on the flash light. and about 30 for 4 batteries. Out the door your looking at 155 give or take.

​

Also if your using the head lamp and your battery dies, you can just swap with your flash light battery.

​

Link is to the head lamp I use. It does not give me money, not an affiliate link or whatever.

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06ZYJJQM4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

This link is to the flash light I use. It does not give me money, not an affiliate link or whatever.

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EWW907A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Batteries I use. It does not give me money, not an affiliate link or whatever.

​

https://www.amazon.com/2500mAh-Rechargeable-Batteries-protective-plastic/dp/B01N9HB03A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540525653&sr=8-3&keywords=18650+lg+battery&dpID=41kKYj1u54L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

​

and the charger I have been using. It does not give me money, not an affiliate link or whatever.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Efest-LUC-V4-Universal-Battery/dp/B00HWMFB9Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540525708&sr=8-1&keywords=efest+luc+v4+lcd+charger

I got a single 18650 digital heat control mod and a divine tribe .8ohm ceramic atomizer for it. here's the link to where I got the mod for $30 when most places have it for $50-80 https://www.myfreedomsmokes.com/heatvape-invader-mini-v2.html

you will need at least 1 18650 battery (Recommend a samsung 25R or LG HE4 or similar IMR chemistry battery) and a charger for it in addition to the atomizer and mod. you should be able to obtain 2 batteries and a charger for $30 if you shop for it, but i highly recommend getting this charger if you can afford it and have other friends with mods, especially if they use mechanical mods since they will love you forever for being able to check their battery voltage whenever they want. http://www.amazon.com/Efest-LUC-V4-Universal-Battery/dp/B00HWMFB9Y

Here is the desktop version of your link

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HWMFB9Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This one is amazing, and charges fast. Has 3 different charge speed settings. Best Charger i ever bought. The nitecore one I had originally completely died on me.

Edit* Going back I realize you stated you're in UK. I posted a US link. My apologies. But you can use that to find one on UK Amazon I'm sure lol Best of luck to you

I have the nitecore i2 and the luc v4 or whatever haha
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HWMFB9Y/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/179-3172744-0610968

Poke a few holes in the back, mount a 200mm fan on one side as an intake and on the other side as an exhaust, you'll have a sufficient number of air changes per hour as to not have thermal throttling issues.

Use a 12V wall-wart, split open the DC output cable, splice it together with a couple fan connectors, and bang you've got a nice always-on fan power supply.

https://www.amazon.com/TMEZON-Power-Adapter-2-1mm-Supply/dp/B00Q2E5IXW/ref=sr_1_3?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1473678849&sr=1-3&keywords=12v+power+supply+2a

You also need a power supply for the amplifier. Looks like this one would work for the amp suggested: https://www.amazon.com/TMEZON-Power-Adapter-Supply-2-1mm/dp/B00Q2E5IXW/

I use a similar one with an extension because I couldn't find a long enough one when I purchased. I think I may also be using one of these: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00Q2E5IXW/ref=psdc_10967101_t2_B01M0XJH1E

I tried powering the motor via a breadboard barrel jack instead of the arduino, but got the same results. The motor whined, the driver started to heat up and smell. All-in-all not expected behavior. This is my first time with steppers and such, so I'm sure I did something wrong, I just don't know where to start with troubleshooting.

Here are the items that I am using:
Arduino Uno
Big Easy Driver
[12V Adapter] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Q2E5IXW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Stepper Motor

Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated!

I ended up going with this route: https://www.amazon.com/CO-RODE-Battery-Holder-Wired-Switch/dp/B00VE7HBMS/

I think it is just an easier option for someone like me who shouldn't be digging too deep into a field I know very little on!

This would be safest if you loaded it with 1.5V batteries https://www.amazon.com/CO-RODE-Battery-Holder-Switch/dp/B00VE7HBMS/

Another option is RC style batteries such as, https://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-2000mAh-NiMH-Battery-Leads/dp/B077Y9HNTF/

Longest life you need a lead acid, https://www.amazon.com/NPP-Rechargeable-Battery-Security-Terminal/dp/B01FYJHP9K/ although you can get them smaller sizes too.

Absolutely.
CO-RODE 8 x AA 12V Battery Holder Case Box Wired ON/OFF Switch w Cover Pack of 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VE7HBMS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_E2Lq75GukclKc
MEILI LED Light Strip SMD 3528 16.4 Ft 5 Meter Waterproof 300 LEDs 12V Flexible Rope Light (No Power Supply), Blue >>[And Green And Red]<< https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VDNAM74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_88h2Weq3pqCKv
AspenTek 2835 3528 LED Strip Light Inline ON/OFF Switch DC Power Adapter Connector ,No Need Welding, 3 Packed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H0GR3E8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_MQf9cblTta6L1
We soldered everything together (we didn't use provided connectors)
Hope this helps!

Well, you could get some 5050 leds that work on 5 volts and could just plug into a usb battery pack: https://www.amazon.com/AVAWAY-Flexible-Waterproof-Background-Decoration/dp/B073RZ7XMR/

Or, if you want to stick with the LED strip you have, this battery holder and some rechargeable AA's might do the trick: https://smile.amazon.com/CO-RODE-Battery-Holder-Wired-Switch/dp/B00VE7HBMS

Yeah, something like a AA battery holder inside the case. The Z-11Pro2 has room inside the case for it and even has solder pads to make it easy. It's described in the manual. I don't know if the AT-100Pro2 would allow for something similar, but it seems to be of similar size and construction to the Z-11Pro2 so it might be worth taking a look at.

Do you happen to know which terminal/connector are commonly used for batteries? It's not for an SV but for a dirt bike and it's connected to a battery pack

Here's an even cheaper one, though I have no idea how the quality are for any of these kinds of knobs.

There are cheaper alternatives

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016U2KXCG/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_GdtFybV0BVK9A

Buy them from someone who has a set they're not using. They don't sell them separately. But they're not worth tracking down really, there are usually better options available... The Vortex PBT doubleshot backlits are a real upgrade. But they're out of stock everywhere unless you like white.

And that brings me to why I would not recommend a K70. For one, you have to run their software 24/7 for any lighting functionality or macros. If you use multiple computers, your settings also won't travel with the keyboard. Secondly, don't buy a K70 if you don't like the caps, they're rather hard to find good replacements for.


The MasterKeys has the most sensible media key shortcuts I've ever used, can fit the vast majority of keycaps, and I would add a DROK volume knob if you really feel like you need that.

https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Control-Controller-Adjusting-Computers/dp/B016U2KXCG/

I use this for my volume.

If my keyboard had dedicated I'm not even sure I'd use it with this thing around.

Get one of these friend, much better than any keyboard that has a volume knob.

Consider a smart charger as well, something like this so your rechargeable batteries maintain their health for longer.

Efest chargers have a good reputation around here, despite their failures with battery labeling. The Nitecore i4 is very basic and has no display that will show your battery voltages, etc, so I wouldn't recommend it. If you're willing to spend a bit more on a fantastic charger I can personally recommend the Opus BT C3100 V2.2.

Get a real battery charger.

Opus BT - C3100 V2.2 Digital Intelligent 4 Slots LCD Battery Charger Compatible with Li-ion NiCd NiMh Batteries - US Plug (PURPLISH BLUE) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01852TBOU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_l99Myb3D95M1Z

The proper way to check them is to charge them up, then drain them using a dummy load, monitor the voltage and current during discharge to then calculate miliamp hour capacity, which tells you how much energy the cell can store. Some battery chargers/testers can do this.

https://www.amazon.com/Opus-BT-Intelligent-Compatible-Batteries/dp/B01852TBOU/

Would something like this pair well with a Zolt? https://www.amazon.com/Zolt-Portable-Laptop-Charger-Plus/dp/B06X91V6SD/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1510672636&sr=8-1&keywords=Zolt

I'm using the zolt paired with something similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Worldwide-Universal-Adaptor-Charging/dp/B01DJ140LQ . If possible, I'd like to slim down a bit. Not sure if it's worth spending the extra money on this and it is nice have two usb ports on my universal charger - otherwise I'd always have to plug the zolt in. But hey, if it means less weight...

Also wondering if I'd need to worry about voltage? I just have a camera battery charger, phone, and laptop - also a little powerbank.

I'm gonna add some thoughts here. I'm also gonna quote from some of your other comments and add it to this thread.

>I need to get an international phone plan

First make sure your phone is unlocked. If you bought it straight from Apple/Samsung/LG/etc it will be. If it's locked to your carrier call and have them unlock it. Then when you get to Italy buy a SIM card from a local company (Like Vodaphone). There is almost always kiosks in the airport for this sort of thing. Here's some more information on it. (http://prepaid-data-sim-card.wikia.com/wiki/Italy). You'll have a local phone number, and access to however much data you purchased for your time there. Once home just slap your old SIM card in and carry on!

>a proper charger for my phone

Here you go. This one served me well on 3 continents so far.

https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Worldwide-Universal-Adaptor-Charging/dp/B01DJ140LQ

>call my credit card companies and let them know I will be in a different country so my card doesn't get shut down

Maybe? I'd suggest getting yourself one of these.
http://www.cashpassport.com/1/global-landing-page/

Pre-load it with your euro's and avoid having to pay transaction fees on your current credit card. It's accepted anywhere Mastercard is (so almost everywhere) and it's insured with 24/7 global assistance.

>I wont be paying for transportation except for if we go out to a bar and the driver wants to drink.

UBER works worldwide, even with your American credit card on file.

Oh and check to see if your Credit Card offers any kind of lounge access. A lot of pseudo-premium cards offer 2-4 free lounge visits a year. A little quiet with some free food and booze is a godsend during a layover!

One thing I don't think I've seen mentioned is a universal plug converter. I have something like this and it's really handy. I've used it in SE Asia, Europe, and the Caribbean. There might be somewhere it doesn't work but I haven't been there yet.

Hey,

My wife has me on this mission as well, she has two hair tools (one is like a stick, one is the clamping thing) both are 110-240v 50-60hz. If I buy this item, can I just plug them into it, then it into the wall, and be fine (I know both can't be used at the same time, but i assume the dual voltage indicator on both items means they are made precisely for this application). I just don't want her blowing them up then being sad. We will also be in Italy later in the month and I figure it should work the same way there as well?


She also has a blow dryer but its 110v (so non dual?) and I don't think that is safe to plug into a UK/EU outlet (Becasue they push 220v?).



Lastly, with this item, at night time can we let say use the 2 USB slots for our phones and the one AC/plug slot for our laptop no problem?


Thanks!

Adapter:

https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Worldwide-Universal-Adaptor-Charging/dp/B01DJ140LQ/ref=pd_ybh_a_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=415R88TWPH12KEZNPHYC

Not every country uses the same type of power outlet, so the charger will probably be built to accommodate the country it’s being sold in. That’s why products like these exist for international travel:


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DJ140LQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KDOVAb74Z8G55

I can't find a link to the one I have, but it's something like this.

This is probably similar to another comment, but I've had this for a few years on multiple trips to various countries and have never had a problem

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DJ140LQ

I ended up buying a lot of my stuff when I was abroad. Like a toaster, blender, toiletries and shit of that nature. Research expat sites and cheap places to buy essentials in Rome so you can get stuff there.

You’ll have to check every one of your devices you want to bring but there are some that work with European outlet voltage (iPhones, iPads, etc) and some that don’t. For things that do work with the voltage buy these. For things that don’t you will need a converter. Something like this will work. Research each of your products if you plug something that needs a converter into an adaptor it will be ruined.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01E140XWA/

I picked this up back in early 2017 and it's been great. it can handle having many things plugged into it, so you only really need it, plus your regular electronincs/cords.

it's got a fan built into it, which can be good for whitenoise, but also can be annoying if you really like total quiet.

i just followed the examples in the adafruit neopixel library for the python side. The PHP is pretty self explanatory if you piddle around with PHP any.

i used these LEDs https://www.amazon.com/ALITOVE-Addressable-Digital-Diffused-Waterproof/dp/B06XD72LYM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1509935755&sr=8-3&keywords=ws2812b+led+string

A Raspberry Pi

this power supply to power the Pi and the LEDs https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0KLECZ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Heres the code https://drive.google.com/open?id=1LkXqiQbU6o7YZ9F1NESZTwvruubY4cTp

its just some PHP to scrape the metar and convert to flight condition and then some python to talk to the LEDs.

Schematics is plug the green wire from the LEDs to GPIO pin 18 on the R Pi.

I used a diode between power and the LED power as well. Cant remember why but I saw it one of the docs.

I run a cron every 15 minutes on the pi to run the PHP script and update the colors.

Do you want/need the ability to change the colors? I feel like adding color changing with mobile control is a bit overkill here. A simple backing board with LEDs hardwired, an on/off button or switch, and a small cord to plug it into the wall would be enough. Even if you want to use an Arduino I'd still suggest plugging in into a wall instead of batteries, especially if you include some form of mobile link.

​

Edit: if you are not good with circuits I would suggest starting with something like this, a power supply ( the 5V one they suggest will work) , and an Arduino with a library that works with the WS2811. Plug the lights into holes on a firm thin board behind the planets and light them up or flash them with the arduino. If you don't like the big bulbs and can solder you could also just glue these to the board.

If you get that going then add the mobile control, or don't, later.

Thank you for the reply, I was looking at using ws2812 strips because they give me the option to change colors, so i could hook up a dip switch and have different modes for her use depending on what she wanted it to display. I did the math for this and it seems like it would require 5 amps to power all the LEDs in the strip that I want on. I am struggling to find a 5v 6amp power supply that i could use for both the lights and the arduino.

I was looking for a barrel plug to connect to the arduino for power then i would just strip that and add the lights in parallel to that, would that work or is there a better way to do it?

edit: I found This power supply. Would this work to provide power to the arduino and LEDs?

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01M0KLECZ/

it’s that one, still 500 milliamps?

Interesting...

I'm using one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0KLECZ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Should I add a capacitor or something to help even out surges or etc? Bigger power supply?

Having some issues getting mine set up, anyone able to help a brotha out?

I noticed you used ws2812b led strip but I have Different wires and I cant get my led strip to light up. I feel like such a noob. I tried following the imgur guide but i guess I'm a little slow and cant figure it out.

Here's what I bought....

Lights

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B5ZPCTC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1

Power

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0KLECZ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Arduino

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EWOE0UU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

OK that sounds like a plan, so like one of these little guys:

https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-MP1584EN-Converter-Adjustable-Module/dp/B01MQGMOKI/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1519216216&sr=8-5&keywords=buck+converter

adjust it with a screwdriver and a meter to dial it in and solder my wires in place and I should be good, thanks!

Naturally i have thought about markets for this as well. The thing is, these supplies are mainly used for Rolleiflex Lenscontrol S camera control systems which are only used on View Cameras (Professional Cameras) in commercial studios. I think the market is rather limited, but why not try?!


Ill get you the board details tonight when i get access.


Could i use a Constant Current 10V board and feed it with a DC/DC converter to keep the input supply? Potentially even a LED Constant Current Driver? Would that be a viable option?

https://www.amazon.de/Einstellbar-Converter-Step-Down-Modul-Stück/dp/B01MQGMOKI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1523431336&sr=8-3&keywords=dc%2Fdc+converter

this one + a Constant Current board for example?

Thanks again for your amazing efforts, you already helped tremendously.



EDIT: I just opened another of those, to my suprise its completely different... I attach some pics.

https://imgur.com/a/zLjFn

Searched for the MOSFET's etc. Link List:

• https://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/AVX/BZ02CA903ZLB?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuDCPMZUZ%252bYl8KRGGE777VRvZBcGAWBuwA%3d
  
  
• https://www.mouser.de/productdetail/texas-instruments/tl780-12kcs?qs=DXdcjUGny5MQtqZC%2F8uCmQ%3D%3D
  
  
• https://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/ON-Semiconductor-Fairchild/SS34?qs=2ONuHmP%2fXzb3ub11UdFfdQ==
  
  And another i believe says "M9RB L46A", cant find that tho.
  
  With my limited knowledge it appears to me that its exactly doing what you said.
  
  I guess that just adds more info (?)

Ahhhh right okay. So how comes you suggested the 7805 instead of a buck step down? Would this be fine?

It seems your original post slipped past my radar, but I work with this technology on a daily basis and would love to provide some help.


I'll get on to your product suggestions shortly, but I do need to address your understanding of power injection. The 50@5v or 100@12v "guidelines" are based strictly on standard-spaced bullet/square ws2811 strings; once you change the length/gauge of wire, this all goes out the window. In order to properly take on a project like this, you MUST have a through understanding of voltage drop. There are formulas (and simple online calculators) that will help you figure out the voltage drop over different gauge's of cable vs length. Power injection is simply a way to combat voltage drop.


The ONLY traditional advantage of 5v pixels was the ability to have individual control over each LED in SMD applications such as strip/rings/panels. There are now 12v individually addressable SMD LEDs such as the WS2815.
I would say the only advantage of 5v pixels at this point would be price, as they are more widely available and less in demand, due to the newer 12v chips. However, in reality, this savings will easily be eaten in more expensive (thicker) wiring and PSUs.


It is a little concerning that you state "i'm running at 12 volts," but you spec a 5v WS2812b ring. If you provide much more than 6v to those rings, you will permanently destroy them. You CAN use a small buck converter though, see below.


Here are my thoughts concerning your choice of LED: they are not the same as in the video. Your rings consist of 12 individually addressable 5v LEDs, while the video seems to use a single addressable source per lantern, most likely a 12v or 24v WS2811 "module" in each, similar to these: http://www.vozop.com/index.php/24v-ws2811-led-pixel-module-12leds-smd5050-rgb-light-20-pack.html


I don't think anything would be wrong with using the ring you spec, and if you have the time to program them neatly, then you could get some neat effects that wouldn't be possible with a single source per lantern. However, the work needed to wire these correct and neat would probably not be worth it in the long run.


Running a 5v system this far apart would require prohibitively thick/expensive wire, so in order to make it work, you will want to distribute power at a higher voltage and drop it down to 5v at each ring. This can be done with a simple and cheap buck converter like this: https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-MP1584EN-Converter-Adjustable-Module/dp/B01MQGMOKI You will need to pick up a voltage meter (multimeter) in order to adjust the pots to the correct voltage, but honestly you shouldn't attempt a project like this without one.


The Tees you spec seem useless for your project, as they do not allow the pixel data to daisy chain between Tees. You will want what's known as a 3,4,3 Tee, like this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3-core-T-type-waterproof-splitter-the-middle-is-4core-female-BLACK-color-the-male-connect/1859056875.html You should then get the matching 4-pin pigtails for each ring, and solder them to the +, GND, DI and DO, in accordance with the pin out of the Tees. Don't forget to also pick up matching 3-pin pigtails to connect to your controller and extend distances between Tees.


Your power supply should typically be the last piece of the puzzle. Once you decide on the type of LEDs you are using, you will need to calculate their max current draw in full white, then find a power supply (or multiple) that can provide at least that amount of current. I typically like to spec a PSU that is at least 20-40% more output than required; this keeps things cooler and prolongs the life of the PSU.


Please feel free to ask any questions you may have, I realize this is a lot of information. It does seem like you have a good idea as far controllers and software go.

The motors there state they are rated for 1.5-3v, so you are attempting to give them 3 times their maximum rated power. So you have a few options, find a power supply that only gives out 3v OR regulate the voltage from your existing power supply. If you search for "3v buck converter" you will find various devices that can take a higher voltage input and output something lower.

https://www.amazon.com/MP1584EN-DC-DC-Converter-Adjustable-Module/dp/B01MQGMOKI/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=3v+buck+converter&qid=1571414941&sr=8-3
something like this for example should do the job to at least get the motors running at a voltage that wont damage them. You could also tune the voltage lower to get a degree of speed control but it would be very rough.
Overall it depends what you really want to do with the motors.

So this thing?

https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Adjustable-Converter-Transformer-Protective/dp/B07JZ2GQJF/ref=sr_1_6?crid=3I3IZD7AZM51S&keywords=buck+converter+24v+to+12v&qid=1555523573&s=gateway&sprefix=buck+converter+24v%2Caps%2C127&sr=8-6

or

https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-MP1584EN-Converter-Adjustable-Module/dp/B01MQGMOKI/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3I3IZD7AZM51S&keywords=buck+converter+24v+to+12v&qid=1555523573&s=gateway&sprefix=buck+converter+24v%2Caps%2C127&sr=8-4

Are there any other new parts I would need to buy to use it? Sorry for the probably dumb questions but like I said I'm very new to all this.

Oh! One thing to consider with the Noctua upgrade: you'll need a buck converter to get from 24 V to 12 V. I bought these and configured it like this. People say you can wire two 12V fans in series instead but you really shouldn't. If you wanted to get fancy with it, you could wire up a PWM controller but I just went ahead and cut off the wires that weren't +12V and 0V.

I had seen this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MQGMOKI/ref=sspa_mw_detail_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Where they specify that damage could occur if used at less than 10% load (which at a design load of 1 amp an esp8266 would be pulling ~3-6% of an amp most of the time). Unfortunately I just realized that neither of these are what I need as I forgot that my source is 24 vac rather than vdc. I could rectify it but am trying to avoid an having circuits upon circuits in my design atm. Thanks anyway for pointing that one out. that's good info for future projects.

My Setup due to my Vanity:

Raspberry Pi 3 Model B:

https://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Pi-RASPBERRYPI3-MODB-1GB-Model-Motherboard/dp/B01CD5VC92/

NorthPada Raspberry Pi 3 Model B 5v3a Power Supply:

https://www.amazon.com/NorthPada-Raspberry-Supply-Charger-Adapter/dp/B01N336XEU

Buffalo iBuffalo Classic Super Nintendo USB Gamepad:

https://www.amazon.com/Buffalo-iBuffalo-Classic-Gamepad-BSGP815GY/dp/B06XWD8QQJ/

Rasptendo Case:

https://www.amazon.com/Rasptendo-Retro-Gaming-Case-Raspberry/dp/B076F7VDR2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518438946&sr=8-1&keywords=rasptendo

OR

NESPI Case

https://www.amazon.com/functional-POWER-button-Raspberry-Retroflag/dp/B074DSXF7F/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1518438976&sr=1-3&keywords=Nespi+Case

This one specifically:

NorthPada Raspberry Pi 3 Model B Power Supply Charger AC Adapter 5V 3A PSU Micro USB 5 Feet with Power On / Off Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N336XEU?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I just bought this on Amazon:

NorthPada Raspberry Pi 3 Model B B+ A+ Plus Power Supply Charger AC Adapter 5V 3A PSU Micro USB 5 Feet with Power On/Off Switch (1 X Power Supply) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N336XEU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_l6hYDb3DGMMPR

I hope it will suit my needs without power issues since it had an on/off switch.

It's weird, I got a very similar 5V/3A switch cable to yours and it works like a charm - the USB one I used before was giving the lightning bolt symbol all the time, but this one hasn't so much as blinked even after overclocking. It makes me wonder if the problem is with the USB connection to the power block?

Would this work?

Get the NorthPada. It is capable of supply 3A, which will easily handle overclocking and any peripherals, and also has an on/off switch so you don't have to keep pulling out the cable. The on/off switch is must have after you use it.

Alright. I am so sorry that I'm being annoying..

how do these

SONY SS-B1000

compare to these

Dayton B652 $42.50

Micca MB42 $59.95

Micca MB42x $79.95

What is the best bang for your buck?

Could you put the speakers in Best to Worst?

I plan on gettin the Lepai 2020A+ unless there is a better amp for the price and then adding a Power Supply Upgrade

It's not ideal, but if you must then make sure you're not using a charger that's rated for more amps than your batteries can handle or you can cause long-term damage to the batteries.

Then again, it's charging 3 batteries at once so it may not make a difference with a usb charger since they rarely go above 2 amps. Maybe someone else can give more insight because it really depends on what's regulating that power input and I don't know a whole lot about it. Also, it's going to charge significantly slower than using an external charger pushing 1 amp through each of the 3 batteries at once than 1 or 2 amps split between them. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong!

Personally I use this.
http://www.amazon.com/Efest-LUC-V4-Universal-Battery/dp/B00HWMFB9Y

30 bucks, does it's job and more. 2 years with this thing and I've never had a single issue.

You cant power that off the arduino. You'll have to use a relay.

Those numbers sound about right.

The strips usually have the polarity printed on them, follow plus or minus to the wire. Or if you can see it, look at the led and a diagram. Identify cathode and anode.

You could also try a AA battery to find polarity. At 1.5 v it should immediately kill the led.

Here's a 5v 10a power supply.
https://www.amazon.com/ALITOVE-Adapter-Converter-Charger-5-5x2-1mm/dp/B01M0KLECZ

No that's not it. It's definitely caused by unplugging it from the PSC, I ran a multitude of tests to verify.

I get this error sometimes, but it has never caused any real issues, I just let windows do the check and it has never had any problems.

The best thing you can do is let it sit for at least 10 seconds after the orange light comes on. I don't unplug the cable, never have. I have always used one of these and I much prefer it over unplugging the damn thing every time. https://www.amazon.com/NorthPada-Raspberry-Supply-Charger-Adapter/dp/B01N336XEU