Best bike ahndlebars & stems according to redditors

We found 767 Reddit comments discussing the best bike ahndlebars & stems. We ranked the 442 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Bike headsets
Bike stems
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Bike handlebars
Bike handlebar tape

Top Reddit comments about Bike Handlebars and Stems:

u/Lizzy_boredom · 15 pointsr/breakingmom

My husband bought and used these. They fit well and worked for him

u/wpm · 14 pointsr/chibike

Bar mitts beat any gloves you're gonna get.

I bought these last winter and they were toasty af and still let me have some dexterity.

u/taonzen · 10 pointsr/bicycling

If you want an inexpensive alternative, you could try putting some different bar ends on your handlebars to give you some different riding positions.

Here's some that mimic the drop-bar style, and would probably give you a good idea if that style would be right for you.

u/NCC1941 · 9 pointsr/ebikes

To be fair to you and your legs, even the easiest gear on that bike (42t up front, 32t on the rear) is passable, but not ideal for serious hills. It's more geared for casual rides, commuting, and only mild hills.


You have a few options for cheap kits, but keeping it under $400 without relying on potentially dodgy components isn't going to be particularly possible.

Most cheap hub motor kits aren't compatible with cassettes (your rear gearing), so you could either go with a front hub motor, or convert your bike down to a 7-speed freewheel (you'd need to buy and install a 7-speed shifter).

Whether you choose a front or rear hub motor kit, you'll need to find one that will fit in with your bike's 700c wheelset. Terms to look for when searching for a kit include "700c", "28 inch", and "29 inch". They're all different marketing names for the same wheel diameter.

Here's the cheapest one I was able to find in a very brief eBay search. It's a 500w geared motor, available for either front or rear (you'll need to convert your bike to 7-speed if you want the rear option) at $175, or $225 if you want it with an upgrade LCD display. I prefer the display, but it's not mandatory.


Next, you'll need a battery. There are a lot of good options out there, for batteries made with name-brand cells and sold be reputable sellers. But there are also a lot of questionable sellers out there, selling packs made out of generic Chinese cells that might or might not meet their stated specifications.

The big three sellers that I would recommend are LunaCycle, EM3ev, and if you can't find a battery from either of those two (your low-step frame basically rules out a lot of the popular mid-frame-mounted battery designs), shop carefully from UnitPackPower.

Things to look for from a battery:

  1. The battery's nominal voltage needs to match the designed voltage for your kit. So, if you buy a 36v kit, you need a 36v battery. If you buy a 48v kit, you need a 48v or 52v battery (they're close enough to be mostly interchangeable).

  2. The battery needs to be able to supply enough current for your kit. The battery will have two current ratings - a continuous current rating, and a maximum or peak rating. If you choose not to buy from a reputable manufacturer, it's safest to ignore the peak rating entirely, because sellers like to list peak ratings that the battery might only be able to maintain for as little as fractions of a second. To avoid straining the battery, you want the battery's continuous rating to match the motor controller's peak rating.

  3. For maximum safety and battery reliability/longevity, you want a battery that's made from name-brand cells. Sanyo, Panasonic, Samsung, and LG are the most common cell manufacturers you'll see when looking for ebike batteries. If the product listing for a battery doesn't list the brand of cells they're using, avoid that battery. UnitPackPower sells name-brand packs alongside generic packs, so you'll want to watch for this.

    To tie all of this in with the 36v 500w kit I pointed out earlier in this post, here is a battery from UnitPackPower that fits the requirements.

  4. The battery is 36v nominal, to match the 36v motor kit.

  5. This battery can supply 20A continuous. The kit I linked to doesn't actually list its controller's peak rating. It never hurts to ask the seller when information is missing, but for a 500w kit, 20A should be plenty.

  6. This pack is listed as using Samsung cells. They're not going to be high-end cells at this price point, but at least you can be sure that they were manufactured with quality control in mind.

    This pack is $312 on its own, or $394 including the rear rack that it's designed to slot into. But you can always just strap it to a rack of your choice, or mount it however.


    The last item you'll need is a torque arm. I'd suggest reading through this article from that explains what torque arms are, and why you want one. Unfortunately, the torque arm that comes with the kit I linked to is a knockoff of an old design (the GrinTech TorqArm_V1 mentioned in the article) that was faulty in design and was discontinued in 2010. So, you'll want a better one. I recommend the TorqArm_V3. It's overkill for a 500w motor, but that's not a bad thing.


    So, taking my examples from above, we've got:

    36v front hub motor kit: $175-$225

    36v13Ah battery from UnitPackPower: $312-$394

    Torque Arm: $30

    And, let's say $15 for zipties, maybe a few wiring connectors for the likely event that the battery and the controller don't come with matching connectors, that sort of thing.

    Total example cost: $532-$664



    In my examples, I picked the cheapest decent-looking options I found in a very quick search. You might find cheaper and/or better options that I missed, and prices and product availability are always changing.

    The main issue I take with my own example, is the choice of a 36v system. In the last couple years, 36v has been slowly falling out of favor, with 48v/52v systems now being more available from the reputable sellers. I picked the 36v setup because it was the cheapest I found at the moment, but if you're willing to spend just a bit more, or wait for prices to shift, you'll find a much wider range of reputable options in 48v/52v.

    An important topic that I didn't cover is battery capacity, and thus range. You didn't mention any particular range requirement, and mentioned hills in your neighborhood as the main obstacle, so I made the assumption that you aren't really looking for a huge battery. The 36v13Ah battery I listed as an example would be good for 18-23 miles on level ground, at 20mph, without the rider pedaling. Range will be lower with hills, higher if you pedal to help it along.

    Edit: If you do want to use one of the popular mid-mounted battery options, like this one from EM3ev, you could mount it to your bike's top tube using a set of Grin Technologies Bottle Bobs. I would have mentioned that option earlier, but I forgot it existed.
u/nuggggggget · 8 pointsr/wintercycling

Hello! This is my second year bike commuting and I love it! The coldest days of the year in Baltimore look around -15C so it shouldn't be too bad! Things I use/suggest are the following


For you:

Bike helmet cover, something like this to keep in the warmth, but doesnt get too hot

Pair of ski goggles



A pair of cycling only outdoor pants to wear as 'ski pants' over your regular pants like these

Wool socks (Costco has great merino wool ones)


For the bike:


A nice set of lights like these

Bar mitts like these


And just make sure you keep up with cleaning the salt and grime off your bike!


Good luck!

u/sigismond0 · 7 pointsr/bicycling

I used these while I was trying to put drops on flats. I eventually just ended up putting actual drop bars on, but these work rather well and are very comfortable.

u/llort_tsoper · 7 pointsr/bicycling

I agree with all of that.

I would just add that bar ends are an economical option for adding more hand placement options to an MTB, without having to swap handlebars/shifters/brake levers.

Most people would opt for a standard bar ends to give you that on-the-hoods/bullhorn hand position. Add a cheap set of foam grips, and install these angled up so that your wrist is straight when riding.

If you want the feel of riding down in the drops, then there are also drop bar ends available. These will require grip tape, and should be installed flat or angled very slightly up.

u/DopePedaller · 7 pointsr/cycling



The product title portion of the URL can be dropped also if you're going for the shortest link:

u/pinkpooj · 6 pointsr/bicycling

Origin 8 makes drop bar ends, kinda like traditional MTB bar ends.

u/VanMulk · 5 pointsr/bikewrench

Origin 8 makes clip-on drop bar ends that might suit your needs without having to mess with your shifters or brakes.- and they're only $15.

u/Aun_vre · 5 pointsr/cycling

So /r/bikewrench and /r/bicycling are much more active sub-reddits that you may see more attention on, but I can try to help you out here.

Switching the bars could require a few things:

Stem Size and by extension handlebar size: the Escape has a stem made for 31.8mm diameter handlebars with pretty large bars actually. Most drop bars you find will be 25.4mm at the stem and 23.8mm everywhere else. Any discrepancy can be an easy fix with some shims (either bought or made). It is also possible (according to Sheldon Brown) that your current bars may have very similar sizing to standard drop bars. The stem may also need to be shortened or lengthened to comfortably accommodate for the new handlebars and riding positions.

Braking: As you may or may not have noticed most drop bars come with brake levers that allow you to access the levers while riding on the drops. This is important because it allows you more leverage at the moments when you are going the fastest. Check out this image stolen from 'Lovley Bike' that shows the typical 'breaking on the drops' position.

While it is not necessary to have these brakes and the 'hoods' that accompany them it is an excellent idea and gives more hand positions! Alternatively it is possible to use levers only on the flats of the drop bars (but not the ones you currently have may need the aforementioned shims).

I see the Escape has Shimano M310 trigger shifters. Those also may have to go. They, like the brakes, can be mounted on the flats of the bar but it is only very low end bikes that do this to their riders. There are an ungodly number of ways to incorporate shifting on a bike with drop bars. You can integrate them into the brakes with STI's, stick them on the end of the bars with Bar End Shifters, Get them onto the stem like many vintage bikes Stem Shifters or get them on the down-tube for a classic look Down Tube Shifters...

That aside the only real options up there that you have for a conversion are Bar-end or "Brifters" Brake/Shifters...reusing your old ones could work but it would be inelegant.

Geometry MOST IMPORTANTLY! Your bike was designed to be ridden upright, the stem, top tube, every inch of the bike assumes the rider is using flat bars. There is no telling really what the ride will 'feel' like after you start riding on the hoods/drops. Its not as bad as most hybrids with front suspension but I could not tell you anything about how it might feel once the swap is made.

For moving forward I see a few options

Option 1 Quick and Dirty Get some drop bars and some old cans. Strip your current bars of components and install the drops(don't forget shims), If sheldon is correct about the size of over-sized road bikes all your old components should slide onto the flat part of the drops and just fit. It would be a unique way to ride but mostly functional...Personally I would have concerns about how safe it would be.

Option 2 More hand positions!
If what you want is more hand positions don't overlook bar end attachments:
Bar end attachments
Orgin 8 might actually have the answer to your prayers: Bolt On Drops

Option 3 Dress her like a roadie
Trying to make your hybrid into a road bike is usually not the right way to go but...with $10-30 for bars, and $100 for Shifters and Brakes, plus $10-20 for complete re-cabling across the bike (MTB and Road bikes use different cable ends) and of course labor if you aren't that handy. Tack on $10 for bar-tape to make her pretty and comfortable and you aren't that far in the hole.
You don't get off any easier for Bar Ends once you get the appropriate brakes its about the same. All that and your former hybrid could pass any scrutinizing test of a lycra-clad cyclist, you'd have yourself a certified road-bike. No promises on comfort!

This is just a vague indication though! For a real in-depth price assessment and Q&A please visit your local bike store

For my $00.02...Don't bother trying to convert them. Ride the bike you have the way it was intended to be ridden. If after a while you still feel like its lacking, throw on some bar ends for more hand positions, Still feel like its lacking? Go test-ride some road bikes to see if riding on the drops is right for you. I'm not talking about a test ride around the parking lot either! No less then 3 miles on that sucker, get a real feel for it. Love it!? Sell the Escape and do a TON of research into inexpensive road bikes. They are out there waiting for ya.

u/ukarmy04 · 5 pointsr/bikecommuting

I've had the bike for a few weeks now and use it almost entirely for commuting. Here's what I've added since I got the bike:

  • GoPro Hero3 Black

  • NiteRider Lumina Micro 350 front and rear

  • Nite Ize HandleBand

  • Tektro CR720 Canti Brakes

  • Ibera PakRak Bicycle Touring Carrier Plus+

  • Avenir Excursion Rack-Top Bag

  • SKS P45 Black Chromoplastic Longboard

  • SRAM Supercork Bicycle Bar Tape (Black)

  • Shimano Brake Cable and Housing Set

  • Shimano Road Shift Cable and Housing Set

    The stock brakes weren't doing enough to stop me so I swapped them out for some Tektro CR720s. I dropped the yoke as far as I could to give myself as much leverage as possible. Braking is much better now and more reliable than the original set ever was.

    I added a rack and trunk bag that's big enough to hold my food and clothes for the day. The only modification I had to make here was filing away some metal from rack mounting leg. It was colliding with frame near the dropout and not allowing the leg to sit close enough to the braze on.

    Some of the original cable housings that came with the bike had some gouges in them so Nashbar sent me a new replacement cable set. I swapped out all the brake/shift cables and replaced the bar tape with some SRAM cork tape. The original cables from Nashbar were also a bit too long and were causing excessive friction.

    I added some SKS fenders per the recommendations of users on this sub. They were a little finicky to install but I got them on in the end. This particular frame doesn't have bolt holes in either of the two rear bridges so I had to resort to the classic zip tie approach.

    As far as the bike goes, it's been performing flawlessly so far. It weighs close to 30 lbs now so it's not the lightest thing in the world. However, the steel frame and the large tires really help smooth out the road quite a bit. The saddle is still the most uncomfortable part of the bike, but I'm hoping to swap it out sometime in the near future. Shifting is still very smooth and the 4 trim positions on the 105 front derailleur is a great feature.

    If you're considering getting a bike from Nashbar, I'd definitely recommend them. Their customer service was fantastic and everything they shipped usually got to me door in 2-3 days (even the bike!).
u/darkeIf666 · 5 pointsr/fatbike

Nothing special

I am planning on a 20 mile ride ride and my hands were looking for another place to be so for 15.00 bucks, this really fits the bill.

u/unreqistered · 5 pointsr/bikecommuting
u/Rex318 · 5 pointsr/discgolf
u/suppliesparty21 · 5 pointsr/FixedGearBicycle

Pretty sure this is the same stem but for way cheaper

u/SgtBaxter · 4 pointsr/cycling

Putting on actual drop bars would get expensive, you'd need new shifters and brake levers (if the bike has hydraulic brakes you can forget about it). Not to mention, MTB geometry really isn't set up for drops.

You could however add something like Origin 8 drop ends

Best option would be skinnier more road like tires like Schwalbe Marathons or similar, and a rigid fork to help reduce weight up front. Then it would be a halfway decent flat bar bike.

u/Gnascher · 4 pointsr/bicycling

Before you go "all in" and spend silly money to do this conversion, why don't you try something like "clamp on drops", or possibly some of the more radical "trekking bars"?

I think even after you spend all that money to convert this upright bike to drops, you'll ultimately be disappointed in the result. It just doesn't have the geometries that make your CX bike "fun".

u/jugglist · 4 pointsr/bicycling

20 bucks, plus you'll want some bar tape.

If you want to brake and shift from the drops, at least 300 more and it'll still suck.

Edit: Also consider clip-on aero bars. You can't brake from those anyway. Otherwise if you want a road bike with drops, sell the one you have (or not - n+1 and all that) and get a caad10 ;)

u/devilmonkey507 · 4 pointsr/bicycling

I used a 1” threaded to 1 1/8” threadless adapter. This allowed me to use any modern handlebars. Below is a link to the one I used.

Profile Design Threadless Size Converter (1 - 1/8-Inch)

u/CatShirtComedy · 4 pointsr/cycling

The seat is a bit above the handle-bars. I had my bike professionally fit, and that's where I should set for "efficiency". (I don't care so much about that at this point)

The problem that I may have discovered - Right before the 50 mile test ride I added a seat cushion which added about 5 inches of height (maybe less when I sit on it). So that's probably why there's pain after the 50 mile ride.

So simple fixes:

  1. Ditch the seat cover.

  2. Work on flexibility.

  3. Maybe drop the seat a bit?

    Would a set of Triathlon bars help?
u/flyingspatula00 · 4 pointsr/MouseReview

I just bought lizard skin tape for my GPW today because the mouse is too thin for me too. I use the 1.8mm thickness one for 10 bucks and put it on both sides which makes my GPW 3.6mm thicker. You can easily stack them too so it will be 5-7mm thicker and surprisingly feels good to the fingers. Just cut out the shape you want its pretty easy.

u/Kashino · 3 pointsr/bicycling

the thumb shifter won't work on drops. flat bar clamp section is 22.2mm, drop bar clamp section is 23.8

You can make it work with the sora STI shifter you listed, the cheaper alternative is the microshift stuff you can buy on ebay (I'd go with second hand shimano stuff though)

Then you'd need new cables

Of course the easier option is to just get bar ends, you can even get drop bar bar ends

u/NewYorkNickel · 3 pointsr/cycling

I have (nearly) the same bike as you (7.4 Firebrand) and ride mine for the same purposes. Lately I've been training for a charity ride and got a pair of these for cheap on Amazon.

The only rub is that you have to also buy adapters for the IsoZone grips so the drop bar ends will fit (~$5). I also got some cork tape from the same company for relatively cheap, altogether making it much cheaper than buying whole new handlebars and shifters.

Also, if you're getting into more fitness riding/training, I couldn't recommend clipless pedals and MTB shoes enough. They've helped with my rides tremendously!

u/sporkfly · 3 pointsr/bicycling

You could get bar end drops instead of changing out your handlebars completely.

u/_CorkTree_ · 3 pointsr/bicycling

This is what I suggest to people when they ask this question. Doing a true drop bar conversion will likely be too expensive to be practical. You had might as well either get some bar-ends like these or just save up for a different bike.

u/amaROenuZ · 3 pointsr/bicycling
  • Mountain bikes tend to only have 1 way to hold the bike. Ditch the grips and get some bar tape, along with some bar ends. Normal bullhorn style ones are fine, but if you really want to step up your game, Origin8 makes some drop-bar attachments that are pretty sweet

  • Clipless pedals aren't for everyone. If they make your feet and knees hurt, don't use em. Simple as that.

  • This could be a matter of posture. If your core isn't supporting enough weight, it can mess up the curvature of your back. That will move strain up onto your upper back and shoulders...right where you're getting the pain.

  • Might be a loose headset. Could be worse a trip to the shop.

  • Knobbly tires are terrible for road riding. Swapping to a smooth road-tread or outright slick tire will improve your bike's grip and acceleration significantly.

  • Getting a fitbit or some other personal telemetry tracker would probably help.
u/bpwnz · 3 pointsr/cyclocross

there's always this option too. $500 vs $20, can't hurt to try.

u/muchosandwiches · 3 pointsr/bicycling

You will need new brakes as well because the Tourney brifters won't pull V-Brakes enough for them to stop. I personally don't recommend that he go this route.

The better route might be:

  • Origin8 Drop Bar Attachments (
  • Keep existing shifters
  • Get Tektro RL520 V-brake drop levers
  • Get Tektro RL740 interrupter levers.
  • New brake cable and cable housing.

    You may not be able to shift from the hood or drops, but you'll have more hand positions.
u/BioKhem · 3 pointsr/bikecommuting

These might be Origin8 Drop Ends from Amazon ( I installed these on my raleigh cadent 1 hybrid and it's great! Offers similar feel to standard drop handlebars without the hassle of actually converting.

u/FlagBattery · 3 pointsr/FixedGearBicycle
u/Poppejans · 3 pointsr/bicycling

or keep using your old fork with an adapter like this:

u/Drxgue · 3 pointsr/FixedGearBicycle

Won't need a new fork or headset, just a new adapter, and a new stem.

Out of curiosity, what Centurion did you pick up? I have an old '86 Time Machine I've been thinking about converting.

u/ysengrimus · 3 pointsr/bikewrench

You need a 1" quill stem or a threadless adapter like this:

The adapter lets you use modern bars if you do desire, as there are no quill stems for 31.8 bars.

u/bk7j · 3 pointsr/bikecommuting

I'm in Pittsburgh, which has less snow, but plenty of cold. For that part, it's a matter of finding the right combination of layers for your cold needs and covering exposed skin. I wear generic-brand buffs over my ears and face, and then good windproof gloves under a set of barmitts. And then I have a commute with plenty of hills to help me warm up. When everything is right, I've been pretty comfortable riding down to about 0-5F.

Falling snow isn't so much of an issue except that I will add clear goggles, otherwise going downhill will involve thousands of little pieces of ice jabbing into your eyes, which sucks. Fresh snow on the ground, up to an inch or so, is usually fine, but will make pedaling a little harder. Packed snow will make it much harder, but doesn't really hurt traction much so it's usually ok, until you find ice.

Ice on the ground is more challenging, and occasionally will make me sit a day out. However, my rule of thumb is that if the streets are plowed enough for cars to drive, then they are clear enough for me to ride, and that's the case way more frequently than not (in my city). If there is too much ice for that, then I don't trust ANYBODY out there and I'd rather walk/bus/stay home. Other options to deal with ice include getting studded tires or something with bigger tires (I have friends who commute on fatbike in the winter).

The final issue is that winter weather will play havoc on your bike's moving parts. You'll want to get it cleaned and lubed WAY more frequently than in the summer, especially if you get snow/ice on your chain.

u/sausagebody · 3 pointsr/bicycling

I would look into things like barmits
Good set of safety lights
Face masks, wind breakers, bike rack and panniers.
Get anything that will make riding in any weather or condition comfortable.
Patch kit, tools, or spare tubes always good to have extra.

u/802bikeguy_com · 3 pointsr/MTB

I love me some esi chunky grips.

u/vidyagirly · 3 pointsr/FixedGearBicycle

I mean.... it very well could be, but they also make tape meant to look like that (this being very similar to Ops). You can get all kinds of colours. Generally called "splash bar tape"

u/meltingcorn · 3 pointsr/FixedGearBicycle
u/Sp1r1tofg0nz0 · 3 pointsr/bicycling

If you want it center mounted, maybe this will work for you.

Gub KBROTECH 31.8MM Double Clamp Carbon Fiber Super Long Bike Bicycle Handlebar Extender Extension Light Lamp Phone Mount Bracket Stand Holder Space Saver

u/samwe · 3 pointsr/bikepacking

What kind of extender are you talking about? An accessory bar like this: ?
If so I think that would work fine. You would want something to keep it from swinging fore and aft. I am familiar with the revelate handlebar bag and it also has a strap to go around the steerer tube for that purpose.

Just stuff some stuff in a dry bag and strap it on, then see what needs to change!

u/Smitty2k1 · 3 pointsr/bicycletouring
u/efficientnature · 3 pointsr/RadPowerBikes I absolutely love them. I put off ordering BarMitts for so long because they are so expensive, but I found these and they are much more reasonably priced. They do a great job of keeping my hands warm. This morning it was 43F and I was wearing my lightest gloves and my hands were fine.

It is still pretty easy to shift, but you have to do it totally by feel because you can't see what you are doing (obviously). That said my commute is pretty flat, and with the electric assist, I don't change gears very often, so YMMV.

u/Coompa · 2 pointsr/MTB

Unfortunately you can't easily make the handlebar higher easily You could use something like this

As for the fork the adjustment just locks out the suspension is all.

Still it's a great find for $60.

u/Gretna20 · 2 pointsr/cycling

I use some nice thick bar tape like Nashbars Get a Grip tape along with some Century gel pads underneath them. The result is nice and cushy and very thick. Most important thing is the gel pads underneath and to double wrap/only half overlap the tape using the entire roll.

u/addys · 2 pointsr/cyclocross

+1 to everything everyone else has been saying, and also something which I haven't seen mentioned yet:

Some people prefer gel pads in their gloves, other prefer the gel on the handlebars under the wraps, for example this.

Personally I have a JakeTheSnake which I ride with gel gloves, and a pure road bike (custom build) with gel on the bars. For long rides (100km+) I find the bar gel to be more comfortable and provide better numbness relief. I've done similar distances on the Jake, but my posture is a bit different on that and bar gel there does nothing for me.

So anyhoo just be aware of that option, some people find it helpful.

u/cassinonorth · 2 pointsr/bikecommuting

This get's brought up all the time and I've done extensive research on the topic when I had a Sirrus that wasn't getting the job done anymore. Yeah...don't do this. It's physically feasible but not advised for a bunch of reasons. In terms of your hands going numb, you need a fit. I'm guessing your arms are totally locked out when you're riding leading to the numbness. You'll get more out of the bike from a proper fit than you would trying to convert it to drop bars.

If you really want to keep your bike and not go full drop bars, grab bar ends like these and retape your bars. You won't have access to your brakes from the drops which is obviously a very huge downside of this plan so be careful if you do.

u/PrimeEvilBeaver · 2 pointsr/bicycletouring

If you can slip something on the existing bars these might work for you:

Origin8 Drop Ends

u/Bearduardo · 2 pointsr/bicycletouring
u/ninja_snail · 2 pointsr/bicycling

I found these! But they have been noted to be uncomfortable and small on a 7.3 fx.

u/weil_futbol · 2 pointsr/bicycling

Because your shifters won't likely be compatible. I've asked the same thing before.

These are in my wish list but I don't know how good they are,

Butt you might want to look into buying a road bike. You can get a low end bike starting at 600.

u/DanielAragon0 · 2 pointsr/cycling

I had the same question a few years back and the general response was that it was too expensive to do since it would require new brake levers, cables, etc. I now have a proper road bike in addition to my hybrid but in the interim, I installed some bar-ends. They are excellent at adding an addition 1 or 2 hand positions which both will alleviate stress in hands/wrists and give you more leverage in climbs. These are the ones I have on my hybrid.

Good luck!

u/mm825 · 2 pointsr/bikecommuting

If you have a flat bar then getting some bar ends like this can make those uphill climbs a lot better

u/bwhite757 · 2 pointsr/bikecommuting
u/Rehd · 2 pointsr/bicycling

You can see an example of bar ends here. You can buy them all over Amazon, but I'd recommend checking the bike shop and see what they say about what will work.



They are just great for multiple hand positions. Found that riding on flat handle bars, you just don't get the options like you do with a road bike. Added some to the FX, no more numb hands. :)

I bought my FX about this time too just in time for winter. It was a blast, I think you're going to have fun.

u/Sumpm · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

If there's nothing wrong with your fork, and you'd like to keep using it, you can get a threadless/quill adapter (like this) and use it with a modern stem.

u/seangoesoutside · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

Velo orange has one thats really expensive but there are $25-30 options on ebay and Amazon.


Or get an adapter to run a modern stem for much cheaper

u/f4nt · 2 pointsr/bicycling

Sorry for my noobness, but are you talking about something like this? I have the same issue as Schmackelnuts, and don't have the money for a new bike right now, so I'd like to make my hybrid more comfortable.

u/[deleted] · 2 pointsr/bicycling

Here's a Sheldon Brown Tom Deakins article about handlebars and hand positions. You should definitely read it!

I can only ride a bike with a straight bar for 15 miles or so without serious discomfort in my hands due to a lack of different hand positions. 20 miles becomes crippling pain.

Some people with the same problem have had great success with ergonomic grips similar to these

Others like some type of bar ends like these so they have variable hand positions. I have something like these on my mountain/beater bike with straight handlebars and they help maintain my comfort level tremendously when on that bike.

Some people really love trekking bars since they offer many hand positions and usually work well with the shifter and brake-lever components that come on bikes with straight bars, so the cost of changing things is minimal compared to changing to something like drop bars that usually need different shifters and brake levers.

For what it's worth, once I went to drop handlebars (i.e. "the kind that curl around") I haven't had a single problem, and I can now ride all day without any hand discomfort.

u/AimForTheAce · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

If you want to rise the height, you could add [an extender]( riser&qid=1462918858&ref_=sr_15&sr=8-5).

If you bring the bar up too much, you may have to run (replace) the cable housings. So, if you don't want to do that, there is a limit to how much you can rise the bar.


Origin8 also has a [35d Ergo stem]( ergo stem&psc=1&qid=1462918981&ref
This one comes with a handlebar shim so 25.4/31.8 bars both work.

u/aerojoe23 · 2 pointsr/bicycling

I commute by bike through the winter this will be the 4 year. My ride is short, only 2 miles.

These are awesome,
when it gets real cold you can put a pair of light weight gloves on under them. But above ~15 F the bar mitts are enough.

Because I have such a short ride I haven't had to worry about venting much but I've taken a few longer winter rides and have had to remove layers. This year I'm thinking of getting better gear. I went the cheep route on rain gear and I don't really love it... but it works.

The jacket is fine but doesn't have pockets. The pants cut to large for cycling. I also have decided that I really don't like the black for visibility reasons. They do keep me dry.

I've been using a pair of safety glasses from lowes as a windscreen. They work fine, gets foggy sometimes.
I need a better solution for my feet.
I don't have showers at work and it's nice to not have to change and carry extra stuff.
When it gets real cold keeping my face from being exposed has been an issue.
I've used a balaclava and a scarf on top of that.
I have had ski goggles fog up.
Thanks for your post got me thinking about it all again. I really need to buys some better gear this year.
Keep your feet dry.

u/snowboardracer · 2 pointsr/bicycling

If you can swing the expense, you won't regret these Bar Mitts.

u/PFULMTL · 2 pointsr/bikecommuting

Get these silicone grips. I use them on multiple bikes. ESI Extra Chunky grips

u/RustlingintheBushes · 2 pointsr/bicycling

Hell yeah, you're gonna love it. The pedals are Race Face Chesters and the grips are ESI Chunky foam grips. Almost wish I would've went with the ESI Extra Chunkies though, I have pretty big hands at 6'2".

u/TheBigTEA · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

I wore the grips out on my VFR and replacing the factory heated grips is just a huge pain in the ass, so I ordered baseball grip wrap. It worked awesome.

You can even order different thicknesses.

u/drosser · 2 pointsr/bikecommuting

Weanas Vex Gel SuperSuede Bike Bicycle Handle Bar Tape Wraps with Bar Plugs (Mixed-Color)

It's not super cushy, but it is pretty awesome.

u/sexyfloss · 2 pointsr/cycling

This is similar. This too.

u/meeerod · 2 pointsr/bicycling

Buy some grips from Ergon. I had the same issue on my right hand where it would affect my pinkie and ring fingers on my right hand, it would last a few days. I’m yet to have the issue since buying and using the grips.

u/tuctrohs · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

You can get auxiliary bars that mount out in front of your bars that you can mount additional accessories to. That's just kicking the can down the road, but there are some that solve your problem.

Some, like this one mount with two clamps, one on either side of the stem. So it can't slide in either direction!

Some mount to the stem (clamp on, or on with face plate bolts (velo orange makes one) ) or on the steerer with a special spacer.

u/onnoj817 · 2 pointsr/grandrapids

i dont really ride in the winter, but ive heard these bad boys are pretty effective

u/Kalsifur · 2 pointsr/ebikes

They mount onto the bottle mounts on your bike (assuming you have them). There are ways around this if you don't have bottle mounts, like bottle bobs or sks anywhere bottle mount. You can see the mount attached to the battery in the pic. Actually they make it pretty clear in one of the pics, lol:

Edit: Oops, I should have looked at your bike pic. This is a real step-thru frame, well the kind I was thinking of.

So you have no bottle mounts it seems. You can either add your own using rivnuts, or use bottle bobs like these:

u/revelpaul · 2 pointsr/ebikes

These mounts are pretty solid, but would require spacers to move the battery away from the curved tubes. Maybe not as pretty as some of the CNC clamps linked above though.

Here is some shameless self promotion for my wife's Sweet Curry conversion:\_source=ig\_web\_copy\_link

u/_crucial_ · 1 pointr/bicycling

Something like this might bring it up a little further. It's a 90mm long 45 degree angle stem.

Combine it with something like this and it would get even higher.

5.5" rise 31.8mm clamp bars

Another issue you're going to run into is cable length. The cable on your left hand brake looks like it's just long enough to fit the current height. If you push it up with new bars you're going to need a new cable. With a 5" rise I'd be willing to bet you're going to need all new cables. Unless you can do it yourself you may want to sell your bike and buy a Roll like your friends. That's going to get expensive if a shop is doing it.

Edit: A stem riser might help get your existing bars up higher.

u/Alfred_Brendel · 1 pointr/Velo

I've been really happy with Cinelli Volee Tape with these gel pads underneath for a little extra cushion since I do a lot of long-distance riding

u/arbiTrariant · 1 pointr/Bikeporn

These. Support your local bike shop though.

u/DaveFromTWJ · 1 pointr/bicycletouring

I did the perimeter (12,000 miles) of the US on Nitto Northroads. 14 months of touring. After the tour, I bought a pair of Sunlite Northroads, made of alloy, an inch more rise, and 2 inches wider. I like them alot

u/eawriste · 1 pointr/NYCbike

It really depends on how much you're going to ride. There are a lot of options. Being able to change positions and sit up straight makes a lot of difference for me. I use these on my touring bike with bar end shifters.

u/metmerc · 1 pointr/MTB

I did this with my mid-90's Bridgestone MB-5 Imgur. It's a great and easy project. You don't need new wheels, but get some slick tires. They'll make a big difference. You may also prefer a more upright riding position. You most easily do that with some high rising handlebars instead of the flats or get some swept back handlebars. I did the latter with my wife's bike for a more relaxed riding position. You may need new cables and cable housing if you do this because you end up moving the brake handles and shifters so much.

Also, depending on the weather you may want fenders.

Note: The pic of my bike also has the xtracycle freeradical extension for extra cargo room or taking my kids on the back. Unfortunately, these are not longer being made.

u/mystogan2901 · 1 pointr/bicycling

How about this one? But the brakes will still be on the straight handlebar.

u/NaanExpert · 1 pointr/bicycling

If you find an older road bike (like 80s or 70s) bar, the diameter will work with your shifters/brakes.

These may be helpful, but are not an equivalent for drops.

I'd ride it as is though.

u/aprofessional · 1 pointr/bicycling

Yeah bar diameter kinda sucks I think you can probably fit some extensions to it though? You'll at least be able to get into them for sprints and stuff I suppose but I'd miss riding on the hoods...

u/qsceszxdwa · 1 pointr/bikewrench

So here's what I would do. Slide in your controls and grips to where you think they would be comfy. Ride it without touching the part of the bars you think you won't use. Cut the bars there if you're satisfied. If you really want drop bars for some reason, stick these on there after you chop the bars.

u/texastoasty · 1 pointr/bicycling

ive asked this question before, basicly best answer was bar end drops. like these:

as far as fit, if your legs are long enough that you can pedal a size larger fine then you may be able to get away with just changing the stem, which isn't too expensive or difficult.

a shorter steeper stem will get the bars closer to you and higher which will focus less of your weight on your hands.

u/johntmeche3 · 1 pointr/bicycling

I had a Giant Escape. You can either sell the bike and buy a road bike on Craigslist (what I did), or buy these:

Putting proper drops on is just too expensive.

u/Clerui · 1 pointr/FixedGearBicycle

They’re drop bar attachments I added to my flat bar


u/doebedoe · 1 pointr/bikewrench

What is it about drops that you want? If it's a more aggressive riding position then yes go with a road bike. But do know those slimmer tires will not be as forgiving over bumps as something with a bit more volume.

If its just that you want more hand positions for the ride there are a whole variety of bar ends that you can add for little expense. Some of these will stretch you out more, some will just reorient your hands, and these mimic drop bars.

Plus v-brakes are probably the best rim brakes for a commuter (powerful, easy to run fenders, etc etc.)

u/donsqeadle · 1 pointr/gravelcycling

Or you can try these clamp on drop bars Origin8 Drop Ends

u/krowemax · 1 pointr/bicycletouring

I have a set of these: that I would like to get rid of.

u/jwink3101 · 1 pointr/bicycling

I wondered about this too when I had the same bike, but you have to realize that you will be using it a radically different purpose than the frame was intended. That isn't just fluff. The geometry is very different. As much as I liked to think so, the 7.2 is not really a flat-bar road bike. the geometry is much more upright.

Sure, you can use your corvette to haul a trailer, but that is really not what it was designed for. If you see what I mean.

Now, I personally think it would look like ass, but you can install something like these bar ends

u/justasack · 1 pointr/bicycling

Yeah, I had to do another google search because I was confused. Here they are on amazon:

u/SeattleHikeBike · 1 pointr/bicycling
u/lazy_beans · 1 pointr/bikewrench

I agree. If he wants to try drop bar geometry on the bike he could try these and adjust/replace the stem. Maybe cut the bars after placement. Wouldn't need to invest in shifters/brakes/brifters to try the fit. Definitely cheaper way to try the geometry change.

u/stewart12rb · 1 pointr/cycling

i have a hybrid and just recently added drop bars. it cost a little over $30 and you can find all the materials off of amazon.
link for the dropbars
grip tape

u/ac2531 · 1 pointr/cycling

I'm a fan of this tape, double-wrapped. It's cheap, comfy, and I find it grippy enough (I'm a fellow gloveless rider) to get the job done.

u/VenditatioDelendaEst · 1 pointr/cycling

Seeing as the lion's share of a bicyclist's effort goes into overcoming aerodynamic drag, "reasonably fast", and "upright posture" aren't especially compatible. You can have both if you add a motor, or perhaps a fairing, but in either case you can upgrade reasonably fast into unreasonably fast by getting low.

Also maybe try a recumbent. Some find that leaning back is a more comfortable way to achieve low frontal area than leaning forward.

Edit: you may be able to kludge on some bar extensions to make the hunched position more comfortable.

u/sentry07 · 1 pointr/bicycling

Got this less than a month ago. So far, I've put a new Riva saddle on it, Profile Design end bars, a Mirrycle bar mirror, a rear spider flasher, and a Bell F20 computer.

u/spaced_toast · 1 pointr/xbiking

I saw a video where the guys suggested this!

Profile Design Threadless Size Converter (1" - 1 1/8")

u/visusest · 1 pointr/bikewrench

Just get a quill to 28.6 adapter and you can use a standard stem to run 31.8 bars

u/Hoagies-And-Grinders · 1 pointr/bicycling

If you want to make some mods that will be reversible, you can get a quill stem converter (, a short mountain bike stem (50-60mm), wide mountain bars, take off the kickstand, and then add some better pedals. I did this to my '91 RockHopper and it made it fun to ride and I was able to convert it back to original. Also, ditch the rack and crate unless you really need it but it looks like it's pushing your seat way too far forward.

u/Beer_Is_So_Awesome · 1 pointr/cyclocross

You don’t have many options. Either buy the adaptors, some version of this thing or something really nice like this or a cheap one like this.

u/winter-wolf · 1 pointr/FixedGearBicycle

Hey all,

Does anyone know what stem size is compatible with a 53cm 2017 Kilo TT Pro? I can't find this information anywhere.

I want to get this kind of stem (I've already tried 100mm and 90mm because I read those sizes were compatible online):


**EDIT: I can see I was horribly misguided when trying to fit this stem onto the tt pro. It looks look I need some kind of stem adapter - would this work?

u/BenDBones · 1 pointr/bicycling

The adapter is a Profile Design and the stem manufacturer escapes me right now, and I'm too lazy to check, but a moderately priced stem will do the trick.
The Drops are Soma Portolo and are extremely rad, I can't say enough good things about them.
Levers and brakes are tektro and the shifters are micro indexed on the rear and friction on the front (I forget the manufacturer there as well).
Overall the changes have made a world of a difference on that bike.
I normally ride with Resist Nomad slicks, but then some snow and ice came so I switched over to some Suomi Studs and then the snow melted.

u/thehumble_1 · 1 pointr/bikewrench

Depends on the frame. My Trek took a 1 1/8 threaded fork which meant I could swap the fork/headset/stem for a threadless one. You're fork is probably 1" threaded so no go. There are a few work arounds like a threadless stem converter, but generally you're stuck based on your frame/fork.

Profile Design Threadless Size Converter (1" - 1 1/8")

u/thegaavv · 1 pointr/bicycling
u/Muffin860 · 1 pointr/AskReddit

Hm, so since you have had one I'll just show you what I was looking at for a headset (if you don't mind).


Stem adapter


u/geronimo2000 · 1 pointr/BikeShop

You might want to think about one of these.

I've gone both ways on this, working from pretty much the same motivation as you with my intent, frankly, being in large part wanting the more modern look.

I put a new fork and a threadless headset into an old Ibis and it worked fine but cost me some money and didn't have any functional advantage over the adapter approach I took on a Giant Rincon of the same vintage. If I were doing it again I'd probably shell out the $20 for an adapter and the $15 for a 1 inch headset and I'd see if that got me where I wanted, because if it didn't I could always go back and do a 1 1/8 fork...

u/DevDawgg · 1 pointr/FixedGearBicycle

Yeah, I don't see why not. A shim doesn't noticeably effect performance at all, especially on a commuter bike. Something like this will do the job perfectly as an adapter. Or, you can get a new quill. Either way, you'll spend less money by purchasing all that, than buying a new 1" threadless fork.

EDIT: 1" threadless carbon fiber fork.

u/Madblood · 1 pointr/29er

I'm 6'4", and about 310 lbs and haven't ridden in years, so yeah, I feel ya. I bought this bike back in February, and I love it. I ended up buying a more comfortable saddle (MTB seats apparently aren't made for sitting?) and this stem riser to raise the handlebars to a more comfortable height. I don't really do any trail riding, but it's nice to have a bike that fits, that can stand up to my weight, and can handle curbs, potholes, tourists, and other road hazards. I'm still getting a feel for what this bike can do and how to do it, but so far it's stood up to my fat ass riding it. I'm sure that it's considered an "entry level" MTB, but for folks operating on a budget like us, I think it's a great bike.

Be prepared to spend a few hours putting it together, and probably a trip or two to the store for a 17mm open-end wrench for the pedals (adjustable wrench is too thick) and a 6mm Allen wrench for a bunch of other stuff. Some Presta-to Schrader valve adapters and a tire guage for Presta valves will come in handy too. I'm on long-term business travel in Key West (rough life, I know) and didn't have any metric tools with me, and had never had a bike with Presta valve stems before. My brother had them on a racer, so I knew what they were, but they delayed my first ride by a couple days.

u/bciocco · 1 pointr/triathlon

If I got those, I think I would send them back if I could. The longer bars from Profile Design or TeC9 are pretty comfortable and reasonably priced. I have the Profile Design and my wife has the Tec9. I really prefer the Tec9 for adjustability and comfort.

u/Id38 · 1 pointr/BikeShop
u/redditfan4sure · 1 pointr/bicycling

I have these and I am still not sure if I like them or not. I am fairly new to cycling and I ride about 30 miles a week. I have a bad back so I have to adjust positions (two on the handlebars and then go to these) every 5 min or so. They do ease the tension on my back and I am happy I bought them, but my speed decreases once I get on them. I've road on them for about 200 miles total and my speed does not decrease as much lately.

Also be careful if you get these. The first time I positioned myself on them I almost fell and again it happen again today but this time I was going about 18mph and it would have been a bad fall. You wouldn't think it would be that big of a difference but it is.

Finally, I had to move my gear shifters to install them on my bike and my handlebars where a bit undersized for them so I had to make them "thicker" with duct tape so they would not move all around. You could probably use bar tape and make it look nicer, but I did not have any at the time.

u/PolishTea · 1 pointr/MTB

As someone who bike commuted in Wisconsin year round let my frost bitten dead nerved knuckles and fingers tell you that you should ask for Pogies this holiday season.

Something like these:

WITH gloves on under them. Windchill when you bike around in tempueratures already below zero is no effin joke as you should know being in the UP.

u/milnosaurus · 1 pointr/bikecommuting

bike shop, amazon, other online bike stores. They are very warm though! I have yet to go riding in weather that I need anything on my hands under them.

u/marginrelease · 1 pointr/bicycling

Bar Mitts are indispensable if you are prone to cold hands/fingers. They make variants for both flat and drop bars. I much prefer them over lobster gloves or ski gloves.

u/planification · 1 pointr/bicycling

Try Bar Mitts. They go on your handlebars, and create a nice little space for heat to stay while also blocking the wind. There are a few styles available depending on what type of bike you ride (MTB or road).

u/ReadySteddy100 · 1 pointr/MTB

I would GREATLY recommend a set of ESI Extra Chunky grips. They made so much more of a difference than I thought simply switching grips could make. They dampen a LOT of vibration from the trail and almost completely eliminated hand pain for me.

ESI Extra Chunky MTB Grip, Black

u/DontTakeMyNoise · 1 pointr/MouseReview

If there's a sport that involves holding a stick, you can find grip tape for it! Should look kinda like this

u/askoshbetter · 1 pointr/bikecommuting

Just normal drop bars with this awesome handlebar tape. Weanas Vex Gel Supersuede Bike Bicycle Handle Bar Tape Wraps with Bar Plugs (Mixed-Color)

u/hippiegoogler · 1 pointr/cycling

This is the tackiest I've ever owned.

Heard Lizard Skins is really good for Grippy

u/SteenerNeener · 1 pointr/bicycling

First and foremost, the most important thing for comfort is a bike that fits you properly and is adjusted to you. If it's not a shop that does fittings, then you might want to consider a different shop. I love my first LBS, the people there are awesome, but I would've been saved a world of issues if I had been properly fit on my hybrid the day I bought it.

Padded shorts help but they're not really a requirement until you're spending a lot of time in the saddle.

Now, I'm not saying go out and buy all this stuff. You might need none of it to start with, but all the stuff I've bought....

The cheapest pair of shorts found with good padding start at $50, and they're Bontrager (Trek's house brand) ones I bought from one of my local bike shops.

I've had my eye on these for some time as a second pair, to see if the chamois is as good or better. Still $50.

Super soft squishy gel saddles are crap. Do not buy them.

Stock saddles almost always suck, ask your LBS for recommendations. If they're a Trek dealer, and it's a Bontrager brand saddle, you can always return it within 30 days and try another.

No matter what grips come on your bike, these are probably world's better. These were literally the first thing I ordered for my wife's Trek 6.2 when she complained her hands were hurting.

These are twice as expensive but the bar ends are really nice for longer rides, to give you more hand positions to work with. It's the same base grip, just with added bar ends. I've had them on my hybrid for some time now.

I still rock this saddle on my hybrid. It's comfortable now for short-ish rides w/o shorts, and I can do about 30 miles on it without trouble.

This is the saddle on my cross bike that I put a hundred miles a week on. It's a bit squishy, but firm.

I wear these gloves when I ride as well, but that's more because I have issues with carpal tunnel and this keeps the pressure off.

As far as tops go, I just started wearing jerseys (I'm still 25ish lbs overweight), this is the one I went with. I'm not saying go for one right away, they're fairly tight and I'm still kind of uncomfortable in it along w/ bike shorts, but I've always been one of those "uncomfortable in his body" fat guys, who wore over-sized clothes in a poor attempt to hide it.

I rode in stuff from Old Navy until recently. Over my bike shorts, I wore some knee-length running shorts, and for a top I just used one of their $10 Go-Dri t-shirts, to wick sweat.

Cotton sucks. You'll be way more comfortable in a shirt that's designed to keep you cool and dry.

Oh, and one last thing, if you get bike shorts, you don't wear underwear. They are your underwear.

I've spent a lot of money on cycling over the months, but it's my primary hobby now, so I don't mind.

u/JohnWicksPencil · 1 pointr/bicycletouring

Depends on where you live. I bought a chromo trek 820 frame in good condition for $30 off craigslist the other day.

I love quill stems with removable face plates. I also love long quill stem adapters with threadless stems clamped on with removalable face plates. I hate not having the ability to adjust handlebar height easily and elegantly without crazy long steer tube sticking up out of the fork.

Look at this beautiful piece of art. If I were a steer tube, I'd want this inside of me.

u/miasmic · 1 pointr/bicycling

It wouldn't have had that clamp diameter for the handlebars originally (or Japanese parts), previous owner would have swapped the stem too when they fitted the flat bars.

25.4 isn't really a weird size (the original clamp diameter would be maybe even harder to find bars for), it's just not really used nowadays (almost all bars, road and MTB are a universal 31.8 now), but it was the standard for MTBs for about 20 years.

You can get a fair few drop bars for 25.4mm, just search '25.4 drop bars'. Nitto are the main manufacturer of higher quality stuff.

Or alternative would be to get a new stem and 31.8 bars, you'd need a 1" quill stem for 31.8 bars like this:

But I would say bear in mind the cost of converting bars vs selling the bike and buying something that already comes with drop bars, the total cost will probably be more than the bike is worth second hand, and won't increase it's value.

Also bear in mind effectively the sizing of the bike will change with conversion to drop bars. How much standover clearance do you have currently straddling the top tube with your feet flat on the ground?

u/xlxoxo · 1 pointr/ebikes

I added a handle bar extender so I could mount 4 headlights. My Bionx battery has a port for a 2000 lumen headlight when riding in places without a street light.

For the back I added three taillights, two with lasers.

I then added spoke lighting for side visibility.

Love Brightz for frame lighting and ground effects.

Just waiting for temperatures to warm up so I can ride after work.

Found this on sale last week. I plan to zip tie it to the back.

I have received many compliments by cyclists, pedestrians and car drivers.

u/Speedy_Greyhound · 1 pointr/randonneuring

The bracket came with a Taiwanese light kit but is basically half of one of these with the carbon tube cut shorter.

u/shmolives · 1 pointr/bikewrench


Thanks u/What_a_rubbish_user but that amazon dealie won't work either. The part where you'd try and clamp it to the aero bars is a weird aero / non-standard handlebar shape.

u/Bittof · 1 pointr/ElectricScooters

I've got extenders of various lengths like this:


The large loop that goes around the handlebar is hinged and opens, so it'll, you know, go around the handlebar when you unhinge it and wrap it around. But then the bolt holes aren't aligned so it can't be fastened.

u/ChrisChristopherson · 1 pointr/chibike

After trying heavy gloves, lobster gloves, and a variety of layering I have to say I feel stupid for not doing bar mitts style pogies sooner. Wasn't sure if I'd like them so even got some off brand ones for $23 and even those are great.

Days in the 20s have required no gloves and this morning I had to open the vents to keep my hands from getting too warm. Amazing!

These are the ones I got, haven't had them long enough to couch for durability but performance has been great so far.

ODIER Bike Handlebar Mitts Cyclist Pogies Mittens for Winter Thermal Cover for Handlebar Keep Hands Warm 1 Pair (Bar-Straight)

u/jamest1234 · 1 pointr/ebikes

I would second the comments on going with a known vender like those mentioned for the battery. I bought a kit from Amazon and a battery from Luna. Very happy. As mentioned, your current plan now going to place a lot of weight on the back. I would like at the measurements for putting the battery between the frame. It will distribute the weight much better. Grin makes some mounts that might help. For some reason I can not find them on their site but on Amazon.

On other thing to look for would be a controller that does Regen braking. While it isn't going to stop you it will add more braking power.

Good luck..

u/sbinsandiego · 0 pointsr/bikewrench

I've extended steerer tubes on several bikes. The I've owned this bike for many years (it has an old style headset).

The parts are readily avalable at Amazon or eBay...

The above comes in a short or long version. I've had these on my bikes for quite some time, and no problems.

u/negativeyoda · 0 pointsr/cycling

You could with something like this:

That said, this is the least graceful way to solve your problem

u/universalcode · 0 pointsr/bikewrench

You probably need a stem adapter, not a shim. This will allow you to use any modern stem.

Profile Design Threadless Size Converter (1" - 1 1/8")

u/Slowsteadywipeout · -1 pointsr/bikewrench
u/What_a_rubbish_user · -2 pointsr/bikewrench

google gave me this

but if you have enough steer tube run a second stem like Sheldon brown