(Part 2) Best bike components & parts according to redditors
We found 4,409 Reddit comments discussing the best bike components & parts. We ranked the 2,345 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
I'd like to try and answer your question since it's not really being answered here. There are a couple options at this point. You can find some 500lb capacity bikes here.
http://living-xl.destinationxl.com/mens-big-and-tall-store/bikes-and-bike-accessories/cat70146
It's obviously still not spec'd for your weight but I'd leave it up to you to risk that. You can also get into a trike bike as well. I would also look into getting the following seat for your size. It takes a bit to get used to, but it won't kill your bits and pieces down there.
https://www.amazon.com/Schwinn-No-Pressure-Bicycle-Seat/dp/B000DZGLVY
Feel free to pm me to talk more. I wanted to bike ride at 450lbs and did it. I'm 225 now. Fuck everyone else and ride. The fat calls were fuel for me. Now I'm looking for my first road bike to ride past all the haters because I'm sick of running out of gears in my 3 speed cruiser. Maybe I'll make a post about it some other time...
Oh, and get friendly with a local bike shop cause you will be breaking and changing spokes often. It's a part of the game, and make sure to keep your tires inflated properly.
Do it and ride on man.
For anyone interested, I was able to keep the cost super low for three main reasons:
https://www.amazon.com/microSHIFT-Shifters-SB-R473-Derailleur-Bicycle/dp/B011IL1EP4
Bar mitts beat any gloves you're gonna get.
I bought these last winter and they were toasty af and still let me have some dexterity.
The picture is of a freehub, not a cassette.
You can easily make that a single speed, but not a fixed gear.
Simply get a single cog and spacer kit designed for cassette wheels.
http://www.amazon.com/Conversion-Fixie-Single-Shimano-Adaptor/dp/B006WRW45O/ref=sr_1_3?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1413139008&sr=1-3&keywords=single+speed+conversion+kit
You will need to use a chain tensioner, use your existing rear derailleur as a chain tensioner, or have horizontal-enough dropouts to be able to move your rear axle enough to tension your (shortened) chain.
Like everyone said, you'll fall over a bit, but stick with it. A few things to keep in mind...
There are several hubs out there.
Shimano:
Sturmey Archer:
As for levers, depending on what kind of brakes you are using, you could also look at using 4-fingers levers, designed for drum brakes. It's how early mountain bikers gave themselves extra leverage. Another option might be Sunlite dual brake levers which enable you to control 2 brakes with a single hand. Though that might be unwise in your case.
​
Bike suggestions:
These were just some suggestions as an example, not an endorsement of any of these. Though from what I've seen they are all high quality bikes.
Enjoy the FX! I'm rocking the 7.5 and I am completely in love with cycling. Here's a few words of advice:
Ditch that cable lock. I can walk up to a bike with a cable with a five dollar tool and have it for myself in 10-20 seconds. Get a U-Lock and rope. The correct answer for how many locks or what kind of locks to use is how many you are willing to carry. This will depend on your location as well. U-Locks + ropes typically require an individual to have a hacksaw, grinder, etc. I live in a smaller college town and mostly just have to worry about drunk assholes so that works perfect. In other areas more heavy duty and smaller U-Locks are more necessary. This will probably work fine and is cheap unless you're in Detroit or something.
Fenders. I feel like that should be your next investment unless you bike a lot at night. I bike a ton at night and decided to invest in great lights after almost being hit by both cars and bikes several times. The first time you have somewhere to be and go through a puddle, the fenders pay for themselves. These are what I rock and I go through puddles / lakes which I probably shouldn't. I stay nice and dry while my friends breeze through them and get completely soaked.
Racks and bungies are great for the FX series. Like others mentioned, this is just a fun bike. I use it for recreation, commuting, bar hopping, exercise, you name it! A rack and a bungie net makes it awesome and Ortlieb panniers are an even better addition.
Besides fenders however... the seat and pedals (maybe) are the next things I'd recommend to look at. The pedals look metal in that picture, but if there's plastic, toss them. Well, I guess you can use them. It depends on the rider, but there's a pretty good track record of the FX series stock pedals only lasting roughly 500 miles before they completely break. Obviously this will vary by user. These are my favorite commuter pedals because I can go clipless later or I can commute at the same time without switching out. These are cheaper and better for commuting just because of the pricing.
As for the seat, your ass will never get more comfy than sitting on a brooks.
Enjoy the FX, it's a wonderful machine and I cherish mine. I was biking to work for the first time in a month (been on vacation) and I forgot I had to go to work. I accidentally biked a few extra miles down the bike path before I remembered I was commuting and not going for an enjoyable bike ride. Careful, it becomes an addiction.
And here's a shameless plug for my pride and joy. It still had the old pedals, saddle, fenders and needs an updated snapshot.
So, they're called saddles because unless you're riding leisurely around most of your weight should be on your feet. But, it will still be uncomfortable on a road bike seat so you must wear padding. This is a main reason why you see all cyclists on the road wearing a kit. Also you just get used to it. Now, when I ride a bike in my everyday clothes I use this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000HZA918/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498798548&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=brooks+b17&psc=1
It seems backwards at first but you can spread your weight better without all the padding, which on long rides will be less comfortable. Being fit to your bike and having it adjusted properly is very important. Good luck.
I just bought these MKS Lambda pedals and I'm very happy with them. They look great, have a ton of surface area, and are very grippy. Also consider the MKS Sylvan which I've used for thousands of miles and are also very good.
I don't know why you'd worry about replacing it as the exact part unless its a collector. From what I'm seeing it seems like its unlikely. Freewheels are a consumable part that are going to need replacing over time, only the most anal collectors care about them matching exactly.
For an easy swap, just replace it with a 6spd freewheel. Any shop that thinks that part is hard to find wouldn't have my business for long. It's a direct swap with maybe a little adjustment of the limit screws. The old 600 Arabesque derailleur should handle 28t fine.
To put it simply... clipless pedals are... awesome. I have them on my road, time trial, mountain, and commuter bikes.
If you want something that can be used with both street shoes and with a cleat, then double-sided pedals will work. I recommend the Shimano PD-A530 (http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-PD-A530-Sport-Dual-sided-Pedal/dp/B0014UG3WE), you can probably find them for $50-$75 depending on where you shop.
Then you can get some shoes that use an SPD cleat. If you are going to be commuting as well, then it is handy to get shoes that have a rubber sole around the cleat. This allows you to walk in the shoes normally, without the cleat touching the ground. This means you won't walk "clop clop clop" down the hallway at work, and can nip into the market to grocery shop on your bike will still wearing the cleated shoes. I have some "Lake" brand mountain bike shoes, and they were less than $100, and have lasted me years.
There are a lot of other cleat/pedal systems: spd, shimano, look, egg beaters, speedplay. All of have their strengths/weaknesses.
For your first set of clipless pedals, SPD is probably the way to go: cheap, works fairly well, easy to find double sided pedals, shoes are easy to walk in.
Installation is as easy as putting a new set of pedals on a bike. You'll need a wrench, or an allen wrench to do that, it's not too hard. Read up on how to do it properly: using the pedal as leverage, and which way turn to tighten. Then you attach the cleat to the shoe. It's pretty easy, but spend a bit of time making sure you get the cleat into a comfortable position for your pedal stroke.
These work great for these types of bars and are dirt cheap.
Reflective tape. It makes the bike safer, hardly weighs anything and won't fall off. There's tape that's black in diffuse light and it's nearly invisible in daylight on my black frame and rims.
Edit:
Also pants clips. The kind with a bi-stable metal band inside. You can put them on one-handedly, even while riding.
And the Power Grips pedal straps are a good compromise for my commuter road bike. They allow for a rounder pace, sit tight and are very easy to get in or out of.
It has no top eyelets, so you'll need this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001V537I0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Looks like Microshift knockoffs? Which is weird, since Microshift is already kind of the knockoff brand. Might be worth it to just get the name brand knockoffs.
A lot of folks like these Schwinn Triple link pedals
Nice find! I even raced one of these for a bit. It seems like it's been sitting for a while. I would replace:
You also have the option of using a seat post clamp with eyelets, for example;
M-Wave Seat Post Clamp with Rack Mounts, 31.8mm, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001V537I0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_iahxDbZMT1YBS
Unless your frame has an integrated clamp, of course.
You need two hole shoes, three are almost always for road cleats. There are styles ranging from carbon fiber racing to leather shoes that would look good in a professional office, but mostly in between.
You may need to buy the cleats if they didn't come with the bike. They usually come with the pedals out of the box.
You've got SPD, or 2-bolt, pedals. Look for shoes that have this on the bottom. You'll also need cleats to attach to the shoes, like these.
I guess that would work, but the only problem is eventually you'll be running a nasty chainline. I only paid $15 for the cog and spacers plus I have some replacement cogs (from old cassettes) for when stuff wears out. Otherwise I'll happily pay the $15 again.
Here's: the cog/spacer kit I got: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006WRW45O/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apip_gEjTj3QBqwcC3
You are looking at the “shoe side” here. Look calls the black plastic oval (backside visible on right, front visible if you flip it over) the “play adjustment pad”. When you clip in, it squishes down a little, and then recoils a bit to seat your cleat into the pedal.
When I’ve removed them in the past, there has been an excessive amount of play. Since you’re only missing the backer, it may not be as bad.
I don’t know of anyone who sells replacement pads, so you’ve got two options. Try it, or replace it.
If it were me, I would pull the back of the other one as well (so they are the same) and try them. Be careful at first, because you may have a LOT OF FLOAT, and come out of your pedal very easily. If you don’t mind the feeling with the pad backer off, GREAT. RIDE THEM.
If they feel sloppy, order new cleats. https://www.amazon.com/BV-Cleats-Compatible-Delta-Degree/dp/B01B8P8FL6/
I’m not sure how willing you are to practice the dark arts of ghetto bike crafting, but you could always try to fold a piece of tape over flat a few times (so you’ve got a thicker, burlier piece) and cut it to fit the recess, then attach to your cleat, but bushcrafting bike parts is at your own risk.
https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Alloy-Double-Lever-Silver/dp/B000AO7H16
I don't know what the point is though.
Yes, I'd recommend getting a pedal like these or these for your commuter. Both are SPD with one side for the cleat and a platform for when you're not wearing cleats. Feel free to shop around for the best price, I just did a quick search on Amazon. I have the M324's on my commuter and have no complaints. The A520's were the other pair I considered when I went into the shop a year ago for this.
For the roadie I'd recommend something like the Shimano PD-M540
For commuting purposes I'd also recommend getting a pair of shoes for mountain biking. These tend to have the cleat within a recess which allows you to walk more comfortably from your bike to your desk when commuting. I'd highly recommend going to your LBS and letting them know your intentions. They should be able to find you a pair that fits you well. You may decide you want road shoes which is fine if they fit well and you don't mind how it feels to walk in them.
Of course, having road shoes are more ideal but if money is tight and you're not quite ready to drop the money, then this will save you from having to drop money on an extra pair of shoes. For reference, I commute 5 times a week and do additional cycling 4-6 times a week. I hear some people complain about "hot-spots" but I have never had any problems with my SPD mountain bike pedals and bontager mountain bike shoes. It has been close to a year since I bought my pedals and shoes though and I think it's about time that I get some road shoes and road specific pedals--mostly because I'm tired of my shoes getting wet during my commute and then having to put up with them being wet when I'm on the trainer at home.
I have Shimano A520s on my road bike and I think they're great. Wide platform, easy to clip in and out of, and I love being able to walk around a bit if needed (especially since I live on a dirt road).
The only downside for me is that the shoes I have are pretty heavy and not as well ventilated as some regular road shoes.
Time Trial Levers. The Tektro RX 4.1 is my favorite.
Don't mess with all the hybrid stuff.
I have a pair of Shimano 105s which I use around town with normal shoes with no issue. The platform is big enough to use on daily commutes around town. Plus you get to have a road pedal for the weekend rides!
A guy on our local forum lost a couple fingers on one hand, so he went to a lever that pulls both the front and rear mechanical brakes using a lever like this. I guess it works out pretty well for him and is better than the option of only having one brake.
The thread on it can be found here: brake levers for a cripple?
There are double pull brake levers. I had one on my old gas bicycle conversion, because you need a brake lever for the clutch, and having 3 levers is a hassle.
Very clever, I like this idea a lot. I would also consider adding some sort of clip that could act like a parking brake.
As for the uneven braking, you could try a brake cable splitter or a dual cable brake lever so you only need one lever to operate both calipers.
http://www.amazon.com/Problem-Solvers-Cable-Doubler-Brakes/dp/B001CJVLRO
http://problemsolversbike.com/products/cable_doubler/
http://www.brakedirector.com/
http://www.amazon.com/Pyramid-Alloy-Mountain-Cable-Brake/dp/B000AO7H16/ref=pd_sim_sbs_sg_1
I regularly (for a decade or so) see a 1-armed bicyclist on my commute, he's going the opposite direction so we've never spoken. Guy in his mid 40s; he rides a bike with no obvious mods.
One thing that you'll definitely want to do-- there are a variety of brake levers available that actuate both brakes from a single lever-- this is one example: https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Alloy-Double-Lever-Silver/dp/B000AO7H16
Better for the application.
http://www.amazon.com/Pyramid-Alloy-Mountain-Cable-Brake/dp/B000AO7H16
Research noseless bike saddles.
I've used Spongy Wonder and Ergo's The Seat, and both are great. If you want to go cheap, check out Hobson and Schwinn's No Pressure.
I'm about the same size as you: I usually just wear bike shorts, Pearl or Canari. If your seat is giving you problems, get a noseless saddle or an ergonomic one. They look kinda goofy, but it's well worth if you intend to ride often.
This is what you want: Schwinn Triple-Link Pedals https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000F5M580/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BPONBbEGRVGZ2
I do not own these but have thought about getting them. Schwinn Triple Link. Have seen a lot of recommendations for them.
Non-mobile link.
Few things. I think that most of the people here pointed out the biggies - rules, regulations, legal necessity stuff, maps, etc. I'm still newish to the city and just got a bike a few months ago. What really really helped me was joining some cycling groups. People are typically very friendly and they know their bike stuff and can help you if you have a flat, etc.
I first joined bicycling groups on www.meetup.com. The only one I've ever rode with was Social Cycling NYC though, really great folks. I also joined the 5 Borough Bike Club (5BBC); I've only been on one ride so far but, again, great people.
There are lots of rides to participate in too. The first Friday of every month, Time's up does a Moonlight Central Park ride. Really cool, I did the last one. There is also one of these for Prospect Park and I hear that one is nice too. Time's up also does a ride called Critical Mass, but I haven't personally went, just heard about it. These are free rides. Some (all? I don't know) of the 5BBC rides are free but there is a yearly membership ($20 and if you join in October, I think, you essentially are buying the 2013 membership and have the rest of 2012 free). However, I'm not sure how much free time you'll have to gallivant around!
Joining an organization like 5BBC or Transportation Alternatives also gets you discounts at bike shops as an FYI. Each organization has a list of participating shops.
Anytime I've ridden in Brooklyn, I've really enjoyed it. There are many more bike lanes than up my way in Queens. Take advantage of that and explore! A ride to Rockaway beach is nice too.
Some gear you might be interested in that I thought was helpful:
26 in one multi tool
On frame pump
Also, I don't know what sort of pedals you have or prefer. However IF you decide to get clips or clipless pedals, some of the bike folks I've met told me a few things. (I have clipless pedals btw) If you've never had clips/clipless pedals, get a pedal that has the the cleat thing on one side and a pedal platform on the other. This way, you don't have to be clipped in if you don't want to be.
I got these.
Also, for the shoes that go with said pedal: I was told for predominantly city riding that you can wear out the cleat on the bottom of the shoe faster if you have the treadless road bike shoe. Also, if you do any walking on hard surfaces with this shoe I guess it wears out quicker. If you buy a mountain bike shoe it has a perimeter of tread that goes around the sole. Keeps the cleat more protected from grinding on the pavement. It will still grind on certain types of ground or flooring though.
Since I already have Amazon open:
This Versus this
I have Pearl Izumi shoes and I really like them.
If I were you, I'd just stop now and save your money for a better bike. The Schwinn Varsity weighs 42 lbs, or about 12-18lbs over what even a generic chromoly framed 80s road bike would weigh, and given that you can pick those up pretty cheaply on craigslist, I'd trade it in and go that route.
But assuming you're already sentimentally attached to this one, despite the fact that it weighs about two full gallon milk jugs more than a bike needs to, you're going to need to start with a 1 piece to 3 piece adapter, like this American to Euro BMX adapter.
Then add a generic road double crankset in your desired length and the appropriately sized bottom bracket, and a fresh chain cut to the right size.
Other than that, it's basically a question of taking the old parts off and putting the new parts on and transferring the pedals over.
>Change out the old cassette with a new Shimano HG-50-7-- will this even work on a road bike? 12-28
That depends on your rear derailler, but it will probably work.
>I need a chain to go with that.. thinking Shimano CN-HG-70-CS
half the price and the reuseable master link is nice.
Take a look here for your cheap CXP 22 needs. The cxp22/2200 (in silver) is $109 with ~$17 shipping vs Bicyclewheels' $145 + $50 shipping.
OK, so you've got a Shimano TX71 crank up front. That's pretty low-end, and I don't think the rings are replaceable, so if they're worn out you'll need a new crankset.
The rear set of gears is called a "cassette" (in your case, older bikes had freewheels). It's a 7 speed Sun Race 11-32.
The chain is chain...no big deal on that as long as it matches your cassette. 7 speed chain should be used with 7 speed cassettes. 8 speed chain is the exact same as 7. 7/8 are the same width, etc. 9 speed chain is narrower, weaker, and wears out faster, and it costs more than 7/8. 10 speed chain is again narrower, weaker, etc. And again for 11. Anything above 8 speeds is silly, especially on anything other than actual racing bikes. It's just more money and trouble, so please don't buy in to the marketing gimmick of 10/11 speed "upgrades", I promise you they won't actually make your ride better.
My opinion said, let's move on to replacing these worn out parts.
Let's start with the crank. You'll need some specialized tools to work on this, but they're not too expensive and a worthwhile investment. You'll need a square-taper crank puller, such as the Park CCP-22. That's needed to remove the cranks.
Next you'll need a tool to remove the bottom bracket (the bearings/spindle bit the cranks attach to. Yours is probably pretty worn out. The thing with BBs is they come in many lengths, such as 122mm, 118mm, etc. The length is determined by the crankset you use, not by your frame, so if you replace your crankset, chances are you'll need a different BB length. Also, many newer cranksets have built-in BBs, since, like I said, BB and cranks are pretty tied together. You'll need to get your old BB out, and you'll need a BB tool for that. Chances are your BB would be one compatible with the Shimano 20 tooth 'Isis' style: BBT-22. You can tell if this is the case by looking at your bike. Behind the crank you'll see a the outside edge of the bottom bracket, if it's got a bunch of small indentations like this, then it's an Isis style one.
Now you'll have the old crank and BB removed. Next you'll need to get a replacement. I'm not sure your budget, so I'll just go with some 'middle of the road' recommendations. This is what I have one some of my bikes: Race Face 22-32-44 Crankset and BB. This is a pretty good deal, since it's a fairly nice crankset AND it comes with its own BB, so you don't have to get that separate. The BB included is an outboard bearing style, which will be a bit different looking than your old one, and require another tool, as it's not compatible with the BBT-22. It requires an outboard bearing wrench like the BBT-29. Even after purchasing this extra tool, the Race Face crankset is an exceptional deal.
Alternatively, you can source out a square-taper style crankset replacement (like your old one), and if you luck out, your old BB will be in ok enough shape and be the right length. Chances are that's not the case, and you'll need to replace the BB too, and end up spending just as much as that RaceFace. The one minor issue with the Race Face one is it's slightly smaller than your stock one, and I don't know if your T30 is one of the ones with a cover over the chain, and if so, there may be a slight gap if you used a slightly smaller crank. If you don't have a chain cover, this wouldn't be an issue, and going from 48 to 44 would probably be an improvement, unless you often ride really really fast.
Next you'll need a rear cassette. Your stock cassette was an '11-32'. This means your smallest sprocket was 11 teeth and largest was 32. When combined with a 22/32/44 crankset, a cassette with 32t as the largest gear is a real 'stump puller'. The 22:32 ratio is probably MUCH lower than you'll ever use, unless you routinely climb mountains on your bike. I'd recommend something a bit 'tighter' such as 11-23 or 11-25. Unless you're REALLY fast and routinely in your largest gear in the front and smallest in the rear, going over 25MPH, I'd also suggest not getting a cassette with an 11t small gear. I'm pretty fit and very very rarely 'spin out' my fastest gear, which is 44:12 for me. 44:11 is a good bit faster a gear, but I'd guess you don't actually need that sort of gear. The choice is up to you, but I recommend these cassettes: 11-24 or 12-24 and 11-28 or 12-28. Dropping the range down from 11-32 to 12-24 means you'll shift your front gears a bit more often, and in return, you'll have a better spread of gearing options, with more usable gears and less duplicate gears. I highly doubt you use more than 44:12 and less than 22:24 ratios as it is, as those are pretty damn fast and pretty damn low gears.
You'll need a cassette tool to remove your old cassette and install the new one. FR-5 Cassette Tool, and you'll also need a chain whip: SR-1 Chain Whip.
As for the chain, any 7 or 8 speed chain will work. I recommend this one: KMC 72. Shimano chains are GARBAGE and wear out way faster than other brands. SRAM chains are ok. Wipperman are good and KMC is good.
All of these tools have videos on their use on Park's website, and are available on Amazon for reasonable prices. If you want to save a few bucks, there's some non-Park versions of said tools for cheaper. I have a Topeak brand chain whip, for instance, and it's every bit as good as Park's.
Let me know if you have any other questions. Hopefully this long post helps.
I installed MKS Lambda platforms ($38) on a buddies bike for him and he hasn't stopped raving about them. His positives are that they are a substantial platform to stand on, they spin nice, and they are super grippy in wet conditions.
They aren't all that pretty, but not horrible.
To make this fit on your bike, you’re gonna need a few different parts.
First something to fix the rack towards where the seatstay eyelets would be. Something like this;
seatstay rack adapter
Then something to set the rack where the dropouts eyelets would be;
dropout rack adapter
This will work but it is defenitly not the most optimal setting since you bike is not built to carry a pannier rack.
No, you just have to use the Shimano Cleats which will attach to any bike shoe that has the 2-hole mounting system, which 99% of mountain shoes do.
Most pedals (my XT did, but I'm not sure about the M530) came with cleats, so you don't have to worry about that.
If you go with Shimano’s SPD I suggest getting the multi-release cleats. SPD pedals come with side-release cleats which I found much less intuitive and harder to get out of in clutch situations. I can get my foot down on the multis nearly as fast as flats.
6 speed cassette
I am about to do this, and was considering this little spacer and cog kit.
I'm curious if anyone can endorse this as a decent option, suggest a different kit, or suggest buying spacers and a cog separately.
I haven't seen something quite like this and am open to ideas.
So, you're kinda going down a rabbit hole here.
First: Most 7-speed freehubs use Uniglide cassettes, with a threaded small cog instead of a threaded lockring. The only 126mm OLD hub I can think of off the top of my head that fit a modern Hyperglide cassette is the FH-1055 rear hub from the 105SC group. If you're OK with freewheels or vintage Uniglide cassettes, your options will open up considerably.
You're also going to need a new derailleur... The cable pull ratio of your SunTour Accushift does not match the cable pull of those Microshift brifters. Any 6-9 speed Shimano derailleur, pre-9-speed Dura Ace exluded will work with those, so you should be able to find a suitably vintage looking derailleur to match your bike.
Finally... if you're trying to build a bike to "crush the MAMILs... as a rebuke to their carbon/lycra obession", why aren't you going full L'Eroica with your bike? I'm really curious about the decision making process behind which parts you want to keep vintage and which ones you're willing to modernize. (and an aside: I'm plenty fuckin' fast without a carbon fork and shifting by feel instead of through clicks.)
Check out the Microsoft brifters, they've gotten some pretty good reviews and can be had new for 55 usd. They are compatible with any 3x7 as far as I know. I've been eyeing them to replace the stem shifters on my hunk of junk.
https://www.amazon.com/microSHIFT-Shifters-SB-R473-Derailleur-Bicycle/dp/B011IL1EP4
Edit: again with the autocorrect
For example, any reason why this wouldn’t work?
microSHIFT Shifters 3X7 Speed SB-R473 Trip Shift Lever Brake Derailleur Road Bike Bicycle Derailleur https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011IL1EP4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_QXUVAbP1JQVHF
Pearl iZUMi Men's Select Road v5... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072JGZL3S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I got these in size 16 back in November. Also had to get these to clip on the bike. Almost 200 rides in and they’re great.
BV Bike Cleats Compatible with Look Delta (9 Degree Float) - Indoor Cycling & Road Bike Bicycle Cleat Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B8P8FL6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1ZrhDbZ8YS27V
If you want it center mounted, maybe this will work for you.
Gub KBROTECH 31.8MM Double Clamp Carbon Fiber Super Long Bike Bicycle Handlebar Extender Extension Light Lamp Phone Mount Bracket Stand Holder Space Saver
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VW7GXM4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6EiEDbY7Z4393
What kind of extender are you talking about? An accessory bar like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VW7GXM4?psc=1 ?
If so I think that would work fine. You would want something to keep it from swinging fore and aft. I am familiar with the revelate handlebar bag and it also has a strap to go around the steerer tube for that purpose.
Just stuff some stuff in a dry bag and strap it on, then see what needs to change!
Here you go: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06VW7GXM4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
A little pricier than I remember TBH
Trying out Bar Mitts to keep my hands warm - https://www.amazon.com/ODIER-Handlebar-Cyclist-Mittens-Bar-Straight/dp/B077SY7J6F/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=bar+mitts&psc=1&qid=1572883108&sr=8-7
Worked pretty well to stop the wind chill.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077SY7J6F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I absolutely love them. I put off ordering BarMitts for so long because they are so expensive, but I found these and they are much more reasonably priced. They do a great job of keeping my hands warm. This morning it was 43F and I was wearing my lightest gloves and my hands were fine.
It is still pretty easy to shift, but you have to do it totally by feel because you can't see what you are doing (obviously). That said my commute is pretty flat, and with the electric assist, I don't change gears very often, so YMMV.
Sunlite Alloy Double MTN Lever, Black/Silver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AO7H16/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0QgYzbFXXTRE2
Seems like an absurdly clunky and expensive ($300!?) device that doesn't appear to do anything that existing levers that pull two cables don't already do. For $13.
https://www.amazon.com/Schwinn-95150-Triple-Link-Pedals/dp/B000F5M580/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1536805381&sr=8-1&keywords=schwinn+triple+link
I have these for my kids since they don’t have cycling clipless shoes.
Price history graph indicates this is an OK deal, but far from exceptional. Amazon has sold it for a lot less money at times in the past
In fact, there's a strong spike in prices in spring/summer, and a steeper drop yet to come around the end of September/early October by the looks of the trend over the last few years.
Makes sense - cash in on bike mania when the weather turns good, then have to shift your excess inventory before the relatively quiet winter
I'd hold fire until the end of September and see if it drops lower again this year personally.
I just bought biking shoes (Shimano with SDP compatibility). I was hoping for some advice on which pedals to get. I'm looking at lower/cheaper end pedals (such as this one, another one, or another, or finally this one).
I have a road bike, and am looking for double sided pedals that I can use with both my clip in shoes and my regular shoes. Do you have any advice?
Thanks in advance :)
I am a girl, have a Giant Avail Composite, size 9, bike recrectionally/exercise and long distance so we are similar :) I opted for SPD shoes which you typically use for mountain biking and spinning but I like that versatility. These are them in a size 41 since they are european sizes You are able to walk fine in them as the clips are recessed. I found road bike shoes + pedals to be very specific and the lighter the weight the more expensive bc of carbon and people use those for racing which wasn't for me just yet.
I was told by my LBS that this wasn't unusual that I opted for non road bike pedals & spd shoes to start. I like that I can clip into my Trek mountain bike too and also take them for spinning in the winter. Win- win in my book :)
These are my pedals but I got them from my LBS:9 I may upgrade to clips on both sides as I advance but for now these allow me to clip-out at stop signs and hold my feet on a little platform so that I don't get hurt when stop then crossing.
Last year I got my first "real" bike and decided to take the plunge and get some clipless pedals, after about 2k miles I will never look back. A friend in the cycling industry recommended Shimano SPD pedals, they are cheap and easy to exit, (road specific pedals and shoes tend to be more expensive) and also tend to have a recessed cleat. I have Shimano shoes they are comfortable, and relatively inexpensive (as far as bike shoes go) you might be able to find some better deals on nashbar or other sites like that though.
I am about to order some Shimano PD-A520 which is more of a touring pedal, it has a bigger platform which will reduce hotspots on long rides (which wasn't a problem until recently, probably due to shoe wear.) You may also want to check out these which give you the choice to use clipless shoes or just regular shoes.
*sp
+1 for the one-sided pedals. I bought these. They're great. The platform for non-SPD use isn't massive but it's fine for leisurely cycling or a quick blast down the shops if I can't wear my shoes for some reason.
If you want a combo pedal may I recommend the A530 instead, it's more comfortable for regular riding.
Personally I've never found it made any difference to cue myself to "pull" the pedal, I just like clipless for the real plantedness and security.
I personally like my shimano pedals. I can use them with or without my bike shoes.
I'm looking to replace the flat pedals on my road bike with some clipless pedals, but since I mainly ride a short distance to school and don't want to change shoes I am looking at the Shimano A530 pedals which have SPD clips on one side and are flat on the other. Does anybody have experience with these and can tell me how well they work?
I also need shoes. I'm a pretty casual biker so I don't want to spend a lot on shoes since I don't really care about weight or stiffness. I found a pretty good deal on some Shimano RP5 shoes and am wondering if those would be a good choice. Also would I need to buy the pieces that attach to the shoes separately or are they included?
Shimano PD-A530 Sport Dual-sided Pedal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014UG3WE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_oxuSzbKEWYM84
Shimano 2016 Men's Performance Race Road Cycling Shoes - SH-RP5 (White - 47.0) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZWBCKOG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_owuSzbFW9B4S3
pretty much. They give you the drop bar hoods and ramps positions, and they're slightly cheaper to convert to.
Consider something like these TT levers as a cheap brake lever swap. Depending on how your shifter(s) is/are set up, that might take some more finagling.
I converted an old rigid mtb to a bullhorn commuter and rode it happily for years.
Yes, it's possible to do all sorts of bodges and have them work. Personally, I'd just buy a proper set of brake levers. They're generally not that expensive. A pair of Tektro bar end levers is about $20.
Uh, I believe you just get the normal like this. Then you get an interrupter lever like this, and boom. Levers in both places. Not claiming to be smarter than anyone. Just surprised no one had suggested it. You don't have to get the levers I listed, just the same "type" I guess.
Marlin 5 looks like a 7 speed. So pretty much any old chain will work fine.
https://www.amazon.com/KMC-X8-93-Bicycle-Chain-7-3mm/dp/B001MXQHPG/
*edit, this one is $2 cheaper.
https://www.amazon.com/KMC-Z-72-7-8sp-chain-Brown/dp/B001CN6QA2
Power Grips, imo, are pretty awesome. http://www.amazon.com/Power-Grips-Sport-Pedal-Strap/dp/B001FYGGLC
You can get the straps alone as well, if you have pedals floating around that are compatible.
They give you just as much up-stroke pull as a clipless pedal. The only shortcoming, imo, is if you have big feet. Looking around now though it appears they've come out with a longer strap version as well - perhaps I'll have to grab a set, since I'm right at the top end for the ones I have.
The pedal and strap come together as an integral system. http://www.amazon.com/Power-Grips-Sport-Pedal-Strap/dp/B001FYGGLC
I used these for YEARS and they worked wonderfully. I also noticed they came out with a simplified version for a lot less, not sure if they are as durable though.
I'm not a podiatrist, but it seems like what you need is a really big pedal so that you're not using the ball of your foot all the time.
I recently got a pair of these, and I am loving them. Nice big platform for tons of foot contact, very grippy, so you shouldn't need clips or straps (and you can DIY add pins for more grip if you want), and their look is somewhere between dorky and awesome, which I appreciate.
I have a Blackburn EX-1 on one bike so I can use the Blackburn bicycle seat:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ZIQMCC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have a Topeak SuperTourist on my commuter, it's heavy but I like being able to fit my Topeak top bag with a couple of panniers when needed. I think the BadBoy 2 has mount points just above the axle.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ZKHN6Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I used a little clamp thing to attach the two front straps to the seatpost, worked fine. They don't really hold any weight, just stability. Something like this or this.
I didn't like these. There were soo many screws/nuts on the frame, and some of the screws interfered with the chain. I could have re-positioned the legs but decided I didn't like the rack in general. I got a seat post clamp mount and It works with my existing rack. https://www.amazon.com/M-Wave-Clamp-Mounts-31-8mm-Black/dp/B001V537I0/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=bike+rack+seatpost+clamp&qid=1572287087&sr=8-4 Make sure it fits the outer frame that holds the seat post.
I have that OMM Phat Sherpa and recommend it. They will email you to measure the length/thread pitch of the axle and get the make/model when you order to make sure it is the right one.
I would also get a seat post clamp that has rack mounts like this. Looks much nicer than the hose clamps.
For the pedals you currently have, it's going to be hard to find cleats, as these are rather old.
If you replace your pedals, you can even use mtb pedals (spd cleats) and mtb shoes. These are usually easier to walk on, but have the disadvantage of being less efficient for pedaling, but only slightly. If you go with proper road pedals, you're probably looking at 3-bolt patterned cleats, so your shoes should accept 3-bolt cleats. Of course, there's also 2-bolt patterned cleats for road bikes, like eggbeaters and spd (non-sl). And yes, you can get shoes that accept both type of cleats. The good news is that pedals usually come with cleats, if you're getting shoes at the same time, make sure they're compatible.
As for the bonus, check your tires, bar tape, maybe even the saddle. Definitely get your drivetrain checked, but that would have come back as recommended upgrades from your LBS.
For people new to clipless I like to recommend mountainbike SPD pedals and for them to use the SH-56 multi-release cleat. They pop out with your foot simply twisting, just angle your ankle slightly and they'll release. It's nearly as easy to unclip them as it is to take your foot off a platform pedal.
As a bonus they help you work on your technique since you need to focus on keeping your feet properly on the pedal but you get the benefits of clipless when you need it. Plus MTB shoes are easy to walk in.
After you get used to the multi-release cleat you can switch to the standard cleat which requires rotating your foot. Then eventually you can make your way to road clipless SPD-SL's or Look.
As for getting started, you should clip in your right foot and be ready to go. Don't worry about clipping in your left foot, just pedal to you can focus on clipping in and then do it. With clipless you only need one leg to propel the bike ;)
I bought the same bike a few months ago - I love it! I'm also pretty new and after a few months went clipless. I went with these pedals and these cleats. The nice thing about this combo is that whenever I have an "oh shit" moment I'm able to unclip without thinking about it. I haven't been outside of my state (MN) for MTB but we have an IMBA model trail and quite a few trails in the twin city area.
With snow coming to your state maybe eye up a Pugsley or Mukluk - I'm going to head out for my first snow ride today!
Throwing in my 2 cents. Everyone has their opinion on what is better so this should be taken as what I have learned with trial and error.
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I use SPD clips with Shimano PD-M647. The outer cage acts as a flat so that I can alternate if needed (I rarely use them now). This was especially good for starting out. The resistance can be adjusted so you get used to clipping out, adding resistance as needed.
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Buy a shoe with a rigid sole, I started with a pair of specialized tahoe and it had so much flex that every time I tried to unclip, my foot would move but not the shoe, resulting in a fall. I since switched to Shimano ME2 and they're way better. I'm sure there are better shoes out there. but these work well for me.
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There are 2 types of SPD cleats, one way (SM-MH51) and multi-directional (SM-MH56). I would advise to use the multi-directional as it is easier to get the hang of.
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Unclip early before you stop, most falling happens mostly at slow speeds. For me its mostly during a climb or trying to get over a rock where I lose speed or the wheel slips, as long as you're moving it's tougher to fall, because physics.
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I would say that if you like to send it over jumps and you bail a lot, you may not want to use clipless. There's a reason people use flats, and that's one of them. Small jumps aren't a problem for me but I'm not doing transfers or big stuff.
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There's a learning curve to going clipless. The more you do it, the more it becomes second nature. Good luck!
First off: watch out with "26 inch" wheels. There are no fewer than 5 different, incompatible "26 inch" sizes which you are likely to encounter!.
Since 26 x 1-3/8 wheels are not used on modern bikes, your options are going to be a bit limited. You definitely want an aluminum alloy wheel (instead of steel). Here is one in the right size and material, that accepts a thread-on freewheel. It is a bolt-on wheel, however (not quick-release compatible). The seller does not indicate what the axle length is, but I think only one axle length was common for 26x1-3/8 wheels. Good luck!
Really hard to help you on the gearing situation without pictures. What kind of shifters does it have? Is the rear shifter indexed?
You may be able to just buy a new 6-speed thread-on freewheel, if the shifter is not indexed (or is indexed for 6 speeds). They are not expensive, and can be installed without a tool. You'll need to replace the chain too, btw (the chain and rear gears wear together). I would prefer this option, if at all possible.
If you simply must keep the old freewheel with bizarro gears, you'll have to figure out which of the various freewheel removal tools it takes. You'll also need something to apply serious leverage to the tool, as freewheels are tightened by the force of pedaling. A bench vise is best. Plenty of youtube videos demonstrating the removal technique.
This Shimano 6sp freewheel cluster is a good option for your driveline in terms of durability and shift quality. No real need to go to 7sp as the incremental difference isn't worth the added strain on the rear axle (7sp freewheels place extra loads on the rear hub/axle assemby).
One piece cranks are pretty easy to work on so they are a good intro to working on bikes. The only tool you need is a big adjustable wrench and some grease to get them up and running.
Six speed is the correct terminology. Bike speeds are typically expressed in one of two ways, the amount of rear cogs multipled by the number of front chain rings (7 in the rear 3) or by the amount of rear cogs.
If you decide to replace the chain, freewheel (rear cog set) and chain ring you will need the following, chain, freewheel, and example chain ring The chain ring you get needs to say that it works with chains that are 1/2 x 3/32. If you want to be anal about this, you can count how many teeth are on the small cog and big cog of your old freewheel and get a new one that matchs that range along with getting a chain wheel that has the same amount of teeth as your old one. This is likely to preserve your old gearing. This is not a huge deal for casual use, though it's something to keep in mind.
You will need a freewheel remover tool to get your old freewheel off. There are about ten different ones, so I would suggest going to bike shop and having them remove it, or have them tell you which tool you need. You don't need a tool to install a new freewheel.
Also, to install the new chain you will need a chain breaker.
However, I still doubt you need to replace all that crap. I'd start by fixing the bottom bracket, then seeing if that solves the crunching and chain jumping problem.
What's the price difference? The 105's are $58 on amazon right now. How much cheaper are the entry level ones you are looking at?
I'm actually doing the same thing. I just built a new road bike and have some parts left so I will be building a budget single speed. I have a carbon frame, mavic wheels with 8,9,10 gear hub (will add this http://amzn.to/1M078HZ). I will also be getting this crankset http://amzn.to/1UCmyp1, this cheap brake setup http://amzn.to/1MSSi0I, some chain and a shorter stem since the frame is pretty large. Most likely will paint everything black with a gold chain. Will be super light since the frameset is carbon.
inexpensive brifters
(And that's brand-new; OP could probably find some used 3x7 brifters on Craigslist for $20 or so if he was patient enough.)
Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!
Here are your smile-ified links:
inexpensive brifters
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Never forget to smile again | ^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot
Mat
SuperMats Heavy Duty P.V.C. Mat for Cardio- Fitness Products (2.5-Feet x 5-Feet) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001THTUAO?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Shoes
Shimano SH-RP2 Women's Touring Road Cycling Synthetic Leather Shoes, Black, 40 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZUYFL6Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_cFgUKiyQeibir
Cleats
BV Bike Cleats Compatible with Look Delta (9 Degree Float) - Indoor Cycling & Road Bike Bicycle Cleat Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B8P8FL6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_BDuqLrw4NcYJB
I use the Peloton shoes. When I bought the bike, I bought shoes for me and my wife. In the box that came with the bike, there was a 3rd pair of cleats. I swapped those with the ones on my shoes.
I didn't buy an extra pair of cleats. A new pair is $14 on amazon https://www.amazon.com/BV-Cleats-Compatible-Delta-Degree/dp/B01B8P8FL6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1475089404&sr=8-4&keywords=bike+shoe+cleats
I wear a size 14 and did a lot of shoe buying and returning last winter to find a great fit. I don’t think manufacturers spend much time really testing large size shoes — just take the 9/10 they designed and make it longer.
I would strongly recommend a pair of Sidi Ergo 4 or 5 in size 48. Add a pair of Look Delta compatible cleats, like below, and you’re ready to go!
Sidi Ergo 5: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sidi-Ergo-5-Carbon-Mega-Road-Shoe-Matt-Black-48/283463363945?epid=19033926428&hash=item41ffbbad69:g:AowAAOSwzNJcwi1J:sc:ShippingMethodStandard!80219!US!-1
Cleats: BV Bike Cleats Compatible with Look Delta (9 Degree Float) - Indoor Cycling & Road Bike Bicycle Cleat Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B8P8FL6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wwTWDbND67YHE
I haven’t brought one to OTF (don’t really use the bike) but I do it for spinning class. You can get a fairly cheap one on amazon. I say go for it.
This is the one I have ($10)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H71AZ36/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1oaZDbMEPMG9X
I recently got this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H71AZ36/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
it fits fine, doesn't move around or anything. Not the greatest but MUCH better than without.
You can get auxiliary bars that mount out in front of your bars that you can mount additional accessories to. That's just kicking the can down the road, but there are some that solve your problem.
Some, like this one mount with two clamps, one on either side of the stem. So it can't slide in either direction!
Some mount to the stem (clamp on, or on with face plate bolts (velo orange makes one) ) or on the steerer with a special spacer.
i dont really ride in the winter, but ive heard these bad boys are pretty effective
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B077SY7J6F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Perusing SRAM's website the main benefit they tout is being able to shift both sets of gears with the same shifter.
I feel like it wouldn't be that difficult to just make a shifter that could shift both a regular FD and RD though...similar to those dual brake levers although a dual shifter would need 2 separate mechanisms.
He should get one of these.
6'5" 300 lbs, buy this seat and thank me later
https://www.amazon.com/Schwinn-No-Pressure-Bicycle-Seat/dp/B000DZGLVY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497294152&sr=8-1&keywords=hornless+bike++seat
https://www.amazon.com/Schwinn-No-Pressure-Bicycle-Seat/dp/B000DZGLVY
I'm with ya. I tried three different seats, and every one felt like somebody was driving a railroad spike into my taint.
I've got one of those Schwinn noseless seats. It looks odd, and it feels a little weird at first, just because you feel like you're going to slip off while you're pedaling, but if you just keep tinkering with the angle (I've got mine tipped back at about 5 degrees) it'll work out. Give it a try.
ive always found it about as uncomfortable as you probably imagine, thats why i put one of these on every bike i own https://www.amazon.ca/Schwinn-No-Pressure-Bicycle-Seat/dp/B000DZGLVY?th=1&psc=1&source=googleshopping&locale=en-CA&tag=googcana-20&ref=pd_sl_5ps6ips1st_e
So if you are willing to change your cleats to ‘Look’ Deltas, this will do it.Look Delta Toe Clip Pedals
There are the newer style of the triple link pedals that are brand new. amazon
We did find a used pair on ebay that we bought, can always check there and any other place that sells items!
Schwinn Triple-Link Pedals https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000F5M580/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JpCoDbF4DAA3P
triple link pedals
Hi. I found the Peloton shoes extremely uncomfortable so I changed the pedals on my bike and reverted back to my spin shoes that I used before and in my opinion are way better. (I am very mechanically challenged and found the task to be very easy after watching a couple YouTube vids)
Here is what I purchased but found it for about half the price:
Schwinn Triple-Link Pedals
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000F5M580/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_TZu-BbTTMC8J5
You don’t have to limit yourself to the LOOK Delta style cleats. My advice would be find shoes that you like and are comfortable. If they are not LOOK then change the pedals on the bike.
You can buy cages from Peloton that install on the bottom of the pedal so you can slip a running shoe in, but we tried them, and they kinda sucked, your feet just weren't in the right place.
So we bought a set of these replacement pedals, and it works great until you get shoes that clip in, or for the occasional visitor that might want to try it out, but doesn't have clip in shoes: https://www.amazon.com/Schwinn-95150-Triple-Link-Pedals/dp/B000F5M580/
Cage on one side, clip in on the other.
Beware, I'm not sure these are the same clips of the default Peloton pedals. They have standard indoor cycle clips. I thought the standard Peloton pedal was different, however, we never used them to clip in.
Hey Huggy Bear,
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I ended up canceling my order for the Mad Dogg pedals and ordered the Schwinn Triple-Link Pedals, since the Mad Dogg pedals were going to take a week to deliver from Amazon. They were half the cost of the Schwinn and had good reviews with Peloton compatibility, but I wanted them sooner.
​
They also support Look and SPD, and have cages.
​
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000F5M580
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Best,
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Techno
So this seat
leather tape
and one of these I'm not sure which one
but how do you make the brake covers brown?
EDIT: also the inside of the wheels brown
EDIT x2: found the brake covers
You can get a Brooks saddle for 90: http://www.amazon.com/Brooks-Saddles-Standard-Bicycle-Saddle/dp/B000HZA918/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1325022507&sr=8-1
Still not dirt cheap, but a very fair price for what you get. I love mine.
I think 800 to 1k is the sweet spot. You get nice components, a somewhat light frame and it has the chance of lasting you a very long time. One upgrade I can highly recommend is getting a Brooks B17 saddle, they make riding so much more comfortable I would never ride a bicycle without one again. Personally I found great luck with a 300€ singlespeed that I ride daily for four or five years now, but singlespeeds aren't for eveyone and the lack of expensive shifting is the only reason mine was this cheap.
If you like a classic looking saddle. The Brooks B17 Standard is a very sweet saddle.
The padding does nothing. The best thing for your ass on a trip like this is a Brooks
Shimano A-520: http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-PD-A520-Sport-SPD-Pedal/dp/B000YB31II
Thanks for your reply, I ended up going to REI, but ultimately, got my deals online.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008SBN2JE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for the shoes. I got a 44, which was a tiny bit small, but ultimately work well so far.
and I went with http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000YB31II/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I went with the SPDs because I like the ability to walk easier. As a solo rider around town, I feel the ability to not have to carry a spare set of shoes around pretty valuable to me.
I love them and dont know how I cycled before without them. I've also only forgotten to unclip once, but I saved myself before falling completely over.
The Shimano A530 pedals are similar in price and function.
I wouldn't particularly recommend the Performance bike pedals, especially since they aren't that much less expensive than the Shimano ones. They are not made by the same company and are copies that are made slightly worse in just about every way.
I think these shimanos are legit as fuck. Cheap too.
I have the A-530 in silver as well, OP if you want lime green you could probably get those and have them repainted
Perhaps Tektro or Dia Compe. I've used Tektro in the past, they're great.
Edit: I've used both of these on different bikes
Velo Orange also sells a pair I've used on Nitto Northroad bars: http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/dia-compe-inverse-brake-levers-22-2.html
Tektro: I use these on bullhorn bars like pictured in OP photo: http://www.amazon.com/Tektro-RX-Reverse-Brake-Levers/dp/B001CJX4WO/191-0082638-2564130?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0
https://www.amazon.com/Tektro-RX-Reverse-Brake-Blacká/dp/B001CJX4WO
I have these on my Origin8 Bullhorn I
Actually I think those levers might have a smaller diameter because they're made for aero bars... not sure. But these look good:
tektro bar end reverse brakes, Dia Compe
When you check amazon for these levers it also lists what other people have bought with these levers.
You could try to buy one of those, or contact a webshop/lbs regarding the inner diameter.
I want to put bullhorns on my Specialized Sirrus SS. Does that make sense for the geometry? Also I would want to put the tektro rx4.1 levers on the ends. Would that work with my v-brakes?
https://www.specialized.com/us/en/sirrus-single-speed-mens-spec/p/173615?color=271962-173615
Tektro RX 4.1 Reverse Brake Lever Set Blacká https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CJX4WO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5RyFDbNPB1V6Z
If you find yourself there a lot, there are brake levers that mount on the ends. I'm planning on getting a set of those once I convert a used single-speed I have to bullhorn bars.
If the pins and internals of the chain are rusted, when the rust is removed there will be some slop. I do agree that if the whole drivetrain is worn, your better off just freeing the chain so you don't have to replace the cassette too. But if the cassette isn't worn, I'd just replace the chain.
Without getting into the LBS debate, I buy chains online. My old LBS charged $40 for an 8 speed chain. They're less than $10 online. I'm not gonna make my college student friends pay $30 extra to support the LBS. $10 speed chains have a similar markup as well. I find many shops don't carry the basic KMC chains which I prefer.
http://www.amazon.com/KMC-7-8sp-chain-Silver-Brown/dp/B001CN6QA2/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1413374754&sr=1-1&keywords=8+speed+chain
http://www.amazon.com/KMC-10-Speed-116-Links-Bicycle-28-Inch/dp/B001AYOP9M/ref=sr_1_11?s=cycling&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1413374848&sr=1-11&keywords=10+speed+chain
You need an 8-speed chain. They're cheap--here's one for under $10--so buy one and be done.
Get a chain tool while you're at it, because you may need to remove a few links. Lay the new by the old to decide where to remove extra links.
In the future, store the bike indoors when you're at home, no matter how inconvenient it may be. Otherwise, everything made of steel will rust and turn to shit.
It is a 3/32 7 speed KMC Chain.
I haven't gone to clipless yet, but I like to have some retention. I've been in love with these pedal power straps. They let me wear virtually any shoe I want, and keep my feet firmly strapped to the pedals
https://www.amazon.com/Power-Grips-Sport-Pre-Assembled-Strap/dp/B001FYGGLC/ref=asc_df_B001FYGGLC/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=242033862368&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16444509014579306406&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9018950&hvtargid=pla-569718346799&psc=1
I have the same ones, they're Power Grips. They're really nice.
http://www.amazon.com/Power-Grips-Sport-Pedal-Strap/dp/B001FYGGLC
Yes, a spring in the seatpost
For pedals, I ended up going with these mostly so I had something that had a strap I could use with winter boots. Although I actually ended up finding the strap more annoying than useful, its still a better pedal than the stock.
Nope, no joke. Always been a big fun of Vans since my skateboarding days. These are the exact shoes I wear.
http://www.zappos.com/vans-chukka-low?zfcTest=fcl%3A0
I also use Power Grip pedals on my fixie for everyday commuting.
http://www.amazon.com/Power-Grips-Sport-Pedal-Strap/dp/B001FYGGLC/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1369427269&sr=8-5&keywords=power+grip+pedals
My boyfriend cycles frequently and swears by these power grip straps. He's done multiple century (100 mile) bike races with these on his bike as well as city riding.
I use A530 for my commute bike. As a matter of fact, I only use SPD pedals for rides as well.
I rode a century yesterday, and everyone else does duck walk at the pit stops. I walk normal.
I also use MKS Lambda pedals. The difference in commute time is none and I can wear regular shoes. If you are riding city, platform pedals is the way to go. My commute is in mostly suburb and bike path.
These are my pedals of choice and are going on my new bike. Great for all kinds of shoes. I don't ride too far, but apparently people have toured the US with them, so long term comfort must be pretty good. :D
I wear street shoes, dress shoes, Rotes, Allbirds, sneakers. As long as the shoe stays on my foot well, this pedal works great.
I have these on my newly renovated backup bike, they are my old pedals. These are OK. I do not like them as much as the Lambda pedals. But they are good for street shoes, and work well. Just not great with soft soled shoes for distances over 2 miles like the Lambdas.
waterproof breathable shell +
waterproof hiking boots +
big platform pedals like these:
http://www.amazon.com/MKS-Lambda-Pedals-16-Silver/dp/B001GSQVEE
Get a set of MKS Lambda pedals They're comfortable with anything. I've done 200 km in a pair of Crocs with these pedals.
I use the MKS lambda pedals on my commuter. Fantastic pedals, highly recommend. They look like battleaxes.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001GSQVEE/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?qid=1420519671&sr=8-12&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70#
don't get the seatpost rack, not nearly strong enough. Try this instead
Depends which Axiom DLX. The Road DLX is not compatible as it's meant for rim brakes (I own a carbon Diverge and also have the Road DLX on another bike). It's a really nice rack.
If your Diverge E5 is newer (2018 and newer if I remember correctly), you won't have upper screw holes for the rack so you'll just need to get a seat clamp with them. These work great: https://www.amazon.com/M-Wave-Seatpost-Clamp-Rack-Mounts/dp/B001V537I0/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=m-wave+seatpost+clamp&qid=1550795738&s=gateway&sr=8-4
​
u/jnav1200 https://www.reddit.com/r/bikecommuting/comments/asxs3d/choosing_a_bike_rack/egzk9of has a very interesting solution though that might be worth a shot, but the Road DLX probably isn't wide enough at the base either for that.
Or these if you would rather mount to your seatstays.
I used to fall all the time. Then I got these based on a recommendation on this forum. Have not fallen since.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0029LIYE2.
Former bike shop employee here. Shoes should fit comfortably but securely. As others have said, you don't want them too tight. But you definitely don't want them slipping off. You'll be pulling up on the pedals, so having your feet slipping out would really suck.
Cleats are sold separately. These are what you need, just standard Shimano SH-51 SPD cleats. I'm 99% sure that's what your spin bikes will need, but to really be certain, ask your instructor. Some spin bikes have dual-sided pedals - one side works with "mountain bike" SPD cleats, the other side works with "road bike" Look-style cleats.
Assuming those are the cleats you need for the pedals, that means they're using "mountain bike" pedals, and that means you want to buy "mountain bike" shoes, or standard touring shoes: something like this. Don't buy "road" shoes unless your instructor specifically says that's what they use. "Road" shoes have a hard, slippery sole that the cleat sits out on, and it makes it really, really hard to walk around.
In the box with your shoes will be some little metal bits with screw holes in them. These go inside your shoe, under the footbed, and the cleats will screw into them through the sole of the shoe. You may have to cut out the bottom of the shoe sole first, though with most shoes you don't have to do that anymore.
When you go to spin class with your shoes the first time, make sure to take the allen wrench with you so you can adjust your cleats after getting on the bike. Your knee/foot alignment is impossible to predict, and once you clip into the pedals you'll quickly figure out that one cleat or the other may need to turn in or out to make your knees/feet feel comfortable.
OK this is slightly confused. How many cogs are on your freewheel cluster?
I'm guessing 5, making your bike a 10 speed using the two chainrings at the front (2x5). This freewheel would usually be replaced with a similar cluster (5 cog) although you could go 6 without too many issues, like this Shimano unit although best to check if your rear derailleur can handle 28t.
I'm no expert, but a lot of that price will depend on what kind of cog set and chain you're getting!
You need to make sure it's the right kind/size of chain for the job (OCB can help with that too as they offer them for sale), but chains for not-super-fancy-racing-bikes range from $12-$50 retail (usually around the lower end of that range, say $15-25 being fairly typical).
What set of cogs you get will depend as well on what quality and range of gears you want and what's compatible. For my old bike's freewheel (freewheels are cogs that come as one complete piece vs modern cogs stacked on a cassette - freewheels are generally only seen on old 70's and 80's era bikes), I paid a little under $20 but if you're getting a high end cassette, you can easily spend $100. More basic ones run say $25-$60 on average (ala https://www.mec.ca/en/products/cycling/bike-components/drive-train/cassettes-and-freewheels/c/828).
Shop time at OCB is $20/hr. If it's your first time doing it and you need a lot of help, you're probably looking at an hour (if experienced should be more like 15-20 mins, though maybe longer if you're changing things vs straight replacing things and need to tweak your shifting to match). So $20 plus let's say you snag a $15 chain plus $30 cassette (cogs) after tax then you're looking around $65-ish at OCB? So say $45-70 depending on what you want/need/how long it takes you but something in that ballpark for non-fancy things. So $80 to get a shop to do it sounds fair if they're including parts.
I have this on my commuter and it's solid. http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-MF-TZ20-14-28-Teeth-Freewheel/dp/B003EQ71QI
As everyone already said, you need a new freewheel.
I cant tell if thats a 6 or 7 speed freewheel, but here is the 6 speed and
here is the 7 speed part you want.
and you need this to get it off.
There are a million freewheel replacement videos on youtube that you can watch to see how its done. Once you get the old one off ( and it will be a bitch to get off... most freewheels are) popping on the new one is stupid easy.
I have this ,http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-PD-5700-Road-Pedals-Black/dp/B00428B1FO you can put either normal clips or ones that move about 10 degrees
For the sake of not creating a new thread, is there a major difference between the Shimano PD-R540 SPD-SL and Shimano 105 PD-570 pedals?
The only difference between the R540s and 105s that I can see is a $23.09 increase, 5º vs 6º float, and if I'm not mistaken, 330g vs 322g. The weight difference really surprises me, because if that's the case, I'd shoot for the R540s as a first pair of clipless.
Those are mountain bike pedals. Something more like these
Shimano 105 pedals through Amazon are $63 at the moment, this is what I ride with and love them.
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-PD-5700-Road-Pedals-Black/dp/B00428B1FO/ref=sr_1_5?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1333752940&sr=1-5
I noticed what I would consider a flair up today. I was on the rowing machine at the gym and started feeling stiffness.
I using http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-PD-5700-Road-Pedals-Black/dp/B00428B1FO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1346269001&sr=8-1&keywords=shimano+105+pedals
Good to know about the mixing of medicine. I am a regular Ibuprofen user but the naproxen seemed to work extremely well.
I currently am looking into purchasing these pedals + cleats, can't say how good they are yet but they came highly recommended from several friends.
As far as I know you can do this 2 ways: get a new rear hub which is a single speed or a flip flop hub which has one side for single gear use and one side for fixed gear use, or you can one of those single gear cogs that you mount on to an existing cassette hub it's a converter sort of thing.
Now, there's no need to get a completely new rear wheel, but if you're re-using the rim, you'll have to take it apart to mount a new hub. It's simpler to just get a rim with a single gear hub already installed. Or get the previously mentioned adapter for your cassette.
Overall, I would say it's easier (not cheaper) to get a wheel that's made for single speed use. Also, keep in mind the spacing of your rear-drop outs as different speeds often have different sizes of dropout.
To be honest, I'm not really sure what a chain tensioner is. I just know the guy in the video was referring to one.
The conversion kit I saw was this: http://www.amazon.com/Conversion-Fixie-Single-Shimano-Adaptor/dp/B006WRW45O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405727927&sr=8-1&keywords=flip+flop+hub
...which I'm only now realizing does not convert in the direction that I'm talking about or want.
The frame set is an older Fuji. I tried to track down the year, but couldn't get the model/serial to line up, so I think it's anywhere between mid to late 90s to mid 2000s (it has the older logo).
It has the fork, and I THINK a headset... though I'm not sure. Is that what goes on top of the handlebars, or under them?
So now I feel like a jerk because I know they USED to, but I can't find it. Maybe they stopped making it. Whatever.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006WRW45O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_guEJBb3S7NVTP
This should work for you; or something similar. I like it because you can align your sprocket and chainring so there's no rub or noise from lateral play. Will take some finesse to get completely silent.
>https://www.amazon.com/microSHIFT-Shifters-SB-R473-Derailleur-Bicycle/dp/B011IL1EP4
These say 3x7 though...
I'm interested in replacing the brake levers and gear shifters on my road bike with a brake/shifter combo. I've linked one I've been looking at on Amazon below. What I'm curious about, is how do I know if it will be compatible with my bike? It's a 21-speed, but I'm not sure what qualities I should be looking for to find a pair that will work. The bikesdirect link is to my bike.
Any suggestions about a good shifter to get and what to look out for would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B011IL1EP4/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1519154351&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=microshift&dpPl=1&dpID=417kpRtm-wL&ref=plSrch
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/wellington2-xv.htm
May want to give these a try. I had a similar issue and it turned out to be the type of cleats that came with the peloton shoes. Ended up buying 2 pairs of these for my wife and I.
Hopefully if works for you too.
BV Bike Cleats Compatible with Look Delta (9 Degree Float) - Indoor Cycling & Road Bike Bicycle Cleat Set
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B8P8FL6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_cQzz4VFtqyopw
https://www.amazon.com/Venzo-Compatible-Shimano-Cycling-Bicycle/dp/B01C4Z6NJU/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
Road. Bike commuter.
https://www.amazon.com/BV-Cleats-Compatible-Delta-Degree/dp/B01B8P8FL6/ref=pd_rhf_cr_s_vtp_ses_clicks_shared_1_1/136-6469509-4302158?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01B8P8FL6&pd_rd_r=5493a27c-9af3-4ea9-b29b-fadbcc677fc6&pd_rd_w=qh05p&pd_rd_wg=YyQpe&pf_rd_p=fc133098-0fe0-425e-be82-4e2e411bf8ca&pf_rd_r=KZGZ0520058R8Y8S25YH&psc=1&refRID=KZGZ0520058R8Y8S25YH
These shoes and clips, but no clue what pedals to get.
These are good for me.
BV Bike Cleats Compatible with Look Delta (9 Degree Float) - Indoor Cycling & Road Bike Bicycle Cleat Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B8P8FL6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_E1CVDb91FHA17
Got these cleats:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B8P8FL6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Good selection. I now have a new project, to build a Peloton Cubbie for shoes, towels, fan and speaker. Nice
Rebok makes a good pair of indoor cycling shoes, and you can purchase Look Delta cleats separately. Both are available via Amazon. The Peloton delivery guys put the cleats on our shoes for us.
Shoes:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071CQ551D/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Cleats:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B8P8FL6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Like other rider have mentioned it probably your position on the saddle.
But I’ve also very early on purchased a seat cover and padded shorts. I ride daily and it makes a difference during longer rides.
Zacro Gel Bike Seat Cover- BS031 Extra Soft Gel Bicycle Seat - Bike Saddle Cushion with Water&Dust Resistant Cover (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H71AZ36/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_q5HKAbS2N2AZQ
Docooler Men/Women Bicycle Cycling Underwear Gel 3D Padded Bike Short Pants (Black & Blue, XXL) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K7STULU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_f8HKAbA775S42
It’s kind of dorky but this seat cover works for me
Zacro Gel Bike Seat Cover- BS031 Extra Soft Gel Bicycle Seat - Bike Saddle Cushion with Water&Dust Resistant Cover (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H71AZ36/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_eq52Cb3E0C7A2
Downside is if you ride it in gym shorts it will stink forever. Maybe there’s a brand that uses better material to avoid that
Here's a good seat that only cost $9.99:
https://www.amazon.com/Zacro-Gel-Bike-Seat-Resistant/dp/B01H71AZ36/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1482343598&sr=8-5&keywords=bike+seat
And here's a referral in case you want two free months:
https://www.pelotoncycle.com/r/?rc=e49388c79e43449cb20f9fdfbee0c7d6
Thank you for the response! Is there a specific dimension size for the seat replacement? For example, this seat https://www.amazon.com/Zacro-Gel-Bike-Seat-Resistant/dp/B01H71AZ36/ref=pd_lpo_468_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YXHD3BQSZEVH72TYEC3B seems like what I'm looking for. Will this work?
Another idea for a game I'd love to see is something similar to Zombies, Run! where you have a base and need to travel around your area to find supplies and survivors. Every so often, you'll be chased by zombies (that somehow run fast enough to catch up to you) and you have to lose them based on the cycling challenge level you're at. Everyone starts with slow zombies but the bigger your base gets then the harder zombies come out. Open world would be awesome so you have the sense of freedom to explore.
Upgrading the bike will let you drop items behind you to slow down the zombies. Wheel upgrades for different terrains, etc.
Here's the full specs:
https://www.cube.eu/en/products/e-bike-fullsuspension/stereo-hybrid/cube-stereo-hybrid-160-hpa-sl-500-275-iridiumnflashred-2016/
The seat has a Rock Shox Reverb Stealth dropper on it, but I found the original seat to be WAY too hard, so I slapped a gel cover on it:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H71AZ36/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Makes a world of difference.
I added a handle bar extender so I could mount 4 headlights. https://www.amazon.com/KBROTECH-Bicycle-Handlebar-Extender-Extension/dp/B06VW7GXM4/ My Bionx battery has a port for a 2000 lumen headlight when riding in places without a street light.
For the back I added three taillights, two with lasers. https://www.amazon.com/YJYdada-Bicycle-Projection-Safety-Warning/dp/B074752G5W/
https://www.amazon.com/ThorFire-220-Degree-Intensity-Bicycle-Install/dp/B06XXFX1KL
https://www.amazon.com/ThorFire-Rechargeable-Bicycle-Intensity-Flashlight/dp/B073W9SLRC
I then added spoke lighting for side visibility. https://www.amazon.com/LED-Bike-Spoke-Lights-Waterproof/dp/B074359W73
Love Brightz for frame lighting and ground effects. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wrhhh1mZzbA
Just waiting for temperatures to warm up so I can ride after work.
Found this on sale last week. I plan to zip tie it to the back. https://www.amazon.com/Emergency-Roadside-Magnetic-Motorcycles-TechFloMo/dp/B0785DRQTL/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kt3it7cQ5rE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8vtCj9JO4FM
I have received many compliments by cyclists, pedestrians and car drivers.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PX_IzrUBVRw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DDWP9DOkiik
The bracket came with a Taiwanese light kit but is basically half of one of these with the carbon tube cut shorter.
> https://www.amazon.com/Gub-KBROTECH-Handlebar-Extender-Extension/dp/B06VW7GXM4
Thanks u/What_a_rubbish_user but that amazon dealie won't work either. The part where you'd try and clamp it to the aero bars is a weird aero / non-standard handlebar shape.
I've got extenders of various lengths like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06VW7GXM4?pf_rd_p=183f5289-9dc0-416f-942e-e8f213ef368b&pf_rd_r=BV50H8J64HJJQRDJEEMR
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The large loop that goes around the handlebar is hinged and opens, so it'll, you know, go around the handlebar when you unhinge it and wrap it around. But then the bolt holes aren't aligned so it can't be fastened.
My favorite addition:
https://www.amazon.com/ODIER-Handlebar-Cyclist-Mittens-Bar-Straight/dp/B077SY7J6F/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=bar+mitts&qid=1569006208&sr=8-5
Cheap and effective.
This pair! They're just neoprene & they were 20 bucks. they're nice against the wind. sometimes i wore a pair of cotton gloves underneath. they're bulky, but for 20$, i was pretty happy!
https://www.amazon.com/ODIER-Handlebar-Cyclist-Mittens-Bar-Straight/dp/B077SY7J6F/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=pogies+bike&qid=1570733696&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyTlkwV0VPRFpKRVRWJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDgzMjM0MVVPNVpDV0pBTUpXQSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwODczMzMyMk1YUEQ2NTU5NzdXMSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
After trying heavy gloves, lobster gloves, and a variety of layering I have to say I feel stupid for not doing bar mitts style pogies sooner. Wasn't sure if I'd like them so even got some off brand ones for $23 and even those are great.
Days in the 20s have required no gloves and this morning I had to open the vents to keep my hands from getting too warm. Amazing!
These are the ones I got, haven't had them long enough to couch for durability but performance has been great so far.
ODIER Bike Handlebar Mitts Cyclist Pogies Mittens for Winter Thermal Cover for Handlebar Keep Hands Warm 1 Pair (Bar-Straight) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077SY7J6F/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_jrZ0DbQREJW3J
Here's a wheel. It has a quick release axle, but will work well.
You could either buy this tool to remove the freewheel (gears) and switch them to the new wheel or you could buy a new freewheel set.
https://www.amazon.com/Schwinn-No-Pressure-Bicycle-Seat/dp/B000DZGLVY/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1475097746&sr=8-8&keywords=bike+seat
That would be my recommendation, especially since you are just doing short rides/riding for pleasure. I had one awhile back and found it pretty easy on the pubic bone, once you got used to the weird feel of no center piece.
you stll have those "mickey mouse" pedals. those are only temp pedals for customers to test ride. get the shimano dual pedals: http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-PD-A530-Sport-Dual-sided-Pedal/dp/B0014UG3WE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1343332103&sr=8-1&keywords=dual+pedals
Those are MTB SPDs. http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-PD-A520-Sport-SPD-Pedal/dp/B000YB31II
google gave me this https://www.amazon.com/Gub-KBROTECH-Handlebar-Extender-Extension/dp/B06VW7GXM4
but if you have enough steer tube run a second stem like Sheldon brown
If you have horizontal dropouts, it's actually pretty easy. Basically the issue is taking up slack in the chain. There exists some products you can use if you have standard dropouts. An eccentric bottom bracket would be your best bet. Problem Solvers makes a chain tensioner you can put on your dérailleur hanger if you can't do the eccentric be.
Eccentric bottom bracket - this one is for bb30, I think you can get one for square taper style, too.. Phil wood makes one. Ask your lbs.
Chain Tensioner
You need to replace the cassette with a single sprocket.
You'd need to remove your derailleurs.
You would need to either replace your crank to a suitable one, or you can just take off all but one of the chain rings without too much issue.
Remember to support your local bike shop. They can get set up single speed much easier than on your own.
edit: yeah, i read it wrong. yeah it's not easy.