(Part 2) Best bike tires & tubes according to redditors
We found 858 Reddit comments discussing the best bike tires & tubes. We ranked the 507 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
I'm lucky that I don't have a long commute. But this is by far the best way to get to work!
Edit: with links!
Little info on the bike for any others who are curios.
Bike: 2016 Raleigh Furley (on discount was ~$750 with tax). I love this bike it's awesome. Chromoly steel, real soft ride. Single speed so it's 0 maintenance. Last but not least, disc brakes. Not the best, but they are much better than rims especially in weather of New England.
Tires: Gatorskins 25mm
Honjo Fenders: Superb, takes a while to install. I could have a used a few more brackets to hold everything together better too. Definitely going to get a mudguard for the front maybe the back as well.
Rack is the Topeak explorer for disc brakes. Two Ortlieb back roller city panniers.
Misc: I have a cateye volt 700 for front light and the cateye rapid x3 for a tail light, both are super bright even in the daytime!
Bike computer: Old nexus 5 that I hold on with a quadlock to track everything to strava. I use Ipbike which hooks up to my duotrap and my scosche heartrate monitor.
I know that they're a tad heavier and slower, but gatorskins and marathons were the biggest improvement to my commute, probably better than getting a pannier. I was getting weekly flats for a while, and after the upgrade I went months and months between flats.
You want puncture resistant tires really. What tires do you have now? Schwalbe Marathon are great for this, they cost about $38 apiece: https://www.amazon.com/Schwalbe-Marathon-Wire-Bead-Tire/dp/B004YIC0YI
Your LBS is full of crap. That bike is a good candidate to learn bike mechanics on, being relatively simple. If there's a bike co-op near you, that would be ideal. Start by accumulating parts that will work with your bike, which has 2x5sp friction shifting, DiaCompe centrepull brakes (Schwinn branded) and 27" (630mm) wheels.
Examples of parts that will be appropriate
This SunTour rear derailleur
These SunTour stem shifters
This Izumi 5sp chain
And if you need tyres, these Panaracer Paselas in 27x1 1/4".
Everything else should be easily obtainable, and the brakes should work fine after disassembly , clean and re-lube.
edit : linkages
A good set of tires will save you money in the long run. I use http://www.amazon.com/Continental-Gatorskin-Wire-Bead-Road/dp/B000NGT2VY
Here you go:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mongoose-MG78457-6-Fat-Tire-Tube/dp/B01CGDVXL8/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=20+x+4+mongoose+tyre&qid=1563137636&s=gateway&sr=8-1
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(We are not an official UK dealer)
I think you'll find that specs are hard to come by as this isn't a top-end bike of the era, being just another steel-framed semi-racer style of bike that was common at that time, with stem shifters, suicide levers and centre-pull brake calipers, axle mount derailleur and entry-level crankset.
That being said, the bones are there for a nice riding weekend bike or short-hop commuter. Doesn't really justify any sort of significant investment, and I'd recommend just refurbishing it as is without upgrading (although a part of me wants to replace that crankset). Disassemble, clean and then regrease the BB, hubs and headset and fit new ball bearings into the BB, hubs and headset (easy to find, take your old units into a good LBS and they'll provide replacements).
Then throw a new 5/6sp chain on there and all new cables (Jagwire are fine). The only thing I would recommend though, if there's going to be any significant riding, would be to replace the brake pads with KoolStop Continental brake pads which will make a significant difference to your braking.
Finish off with some nice bar tape, job done. You'll also need a 4th hand cable puller to do the brakes properly.
good luck..
edit : forgot to mention tyres, those look pretty crusty. Would suggest throwing a set of Panaracer Pasela on there, good tyre at a reasonable price and comes in gumwall for that retro 70s aesthetic
I'm using this one.
My understanding is that they're harder compounds and designed to make less noise. I had some loud ass gravel tires so I needed something different.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001QD0DCU/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Put aside $500-$1000 for a nice commuter bike and you can extend your reach to 5-10 miles around any public transit stop.
Get a nice mid-level bike and prioritize functionality over gimmicks (those being anything that doesn't contribute from pedaling from point A to point B, like built-in computers and whatnot). You can find plenty of great options in the sub-$500 range, but decide for yourself what you want to spend your money on. I bought a $450 upright/comfort mountain bike hybrid and have put $200-$300 into upgrades, and the result is a very rugged, low maintenance, and capable vehicle.
Worthy upgrades:
https://www.amazon.com/Serfas-Drifter-Tire-FPS-2-0-Inch/dp/B000ULU7SY
I never carried spare tubes for the longest time. I didn't think that the time it takes to find and patch the hole was worth the bulk of an extra tube, especially using the self adhesive patches. You'll want some tire levers too.
After finally giving CO2 a try I carried a spare tube around for a while. Pretty quick to throw a new tube on and worry about patching it later at home. Now I vary between carrying an extra tube or not, but I still carry a hand pump in addition to the CO2.
I carry a small multitool for adjustments as well. It's a small ratcheting set that has proved useful more often for things other than the bike!
Got your lights all set up? You may want to consider an extra battery as well, or a charger to keep at work if it's a charging light.
The Park Tool glueless patches are the best I've ever used.
https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-GP-2-Super-Patch/dp/B000WY730O/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=park+tool+patches&qid=1572288022&sr=8-8
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A8JQVDI there's plenty more options too.
OPI nail polish is the best quality if you decide to go that route . Or you can cover it up with a top tube protector.
https://www.amazon.com/Green-Guru-Gear-Upcycled-Protector/dp/B00A8JQVDI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=bike+top+tube+protector&qid=1568159663&s=gateway&sprefix=bike+top+tube+&sr=8-1
https://www.amazon.com/All-Mountain-Style-Honeycomb-Impact/dp/B00PWUPL4I/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=bike+top+tube+protector&qid=1568159663&s=gateway&sprefix=bike+top+tube+&sr=8-2
Living in the greater Seattle area and have the same issue as you. What I use are the SKS Raceblade Long Fenders. They attach via a clip to a fitting that fits between your skewer and fork/dropout, and another one that attaches to your brake mount. You can quickly remove or re-attach the fenders without much fussing. Overall they work pretty well
http://www.amazon.com/SKS-Raceblade-Bicycle-Fender-Black/dp/B005NGPJ4I
Yes, replace. You can probably get away with the tires but it's best to replace them if you have the cash. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001CN6NMS/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1 are some great ones if your tires are 27"
Sounds kinda cool, but I installed a pair of these almost two years ago and haven't gotten a single flat since:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NNR6SI/
I used to get a flat a month. And they ride just like any other tire.
For the seams, maybe try an iron, like you see the MYOGers use to shorten inflatable sleeping pads? E.g.
These patch kits are marketed for bike inner tubes, but they’re the same material that Therm-a-Rest gives you as a patch when you buy a NeoAir, they’re just smaller.
i think you'll have a hard time finding a cheap (& durable) kevlar belt in either size. hard to beat gatorskins for sheer durability, they cost the same in both sizes.
panaracer paselas also come in 27 1/4 ('tourguard' version has kevlar belt), and are cheaper. i am riding these in 700x25c at the moment, very nice so far, rolls a bit smoother than gatorskins. can't comment on long-term durability yet, but they have a great reputation.
The strip on my wheels is actually on my tires: Schwalbe Marathon Plus's, came stock - but I've heard of the aftermarket strips. How are they holding up?
thx. I just ordered a spare tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CGDVXL8/?cv_ct_id=amzn1.idea.7UDB61NV3OQO&cv_ct_pg=storefront&cv_ct_wn=aip-storefront&ref=exp_cov_teamdominican_dp_vv_d
For commuting, I'd suggest Gatorskins. They're heavy and slow but really tough.
FYI, you should be able to easily find commuter-grade bike tires that are significantly thicker and significantly less prone to puncture.
Most bike tires are sold as performance tires and are designed to be thin. Your bike tires require a significant amount of energy to spin up to speed, and once they're moving fast they store a significant amount of energy. Heavy tires cause effects like increasing stopping distance and difficulty in cornering due to gyroscopic effects. Thus, performance bike tires are designed to be thin, and even things like mountain bike tires are usually a thin layer of rubber with studs for traction. Thin tires are cheaper as well.
Anecdotally, when I bought these tires I went from having about one flat a month (commuting 10 miles a day) to never having another flat again. The inverted tread pattern makes the tire much thicker in most areas while still allowing for a tread that grips on wet and snowy roads. These are regular pneumatic tires in other regards, so they're still relatively light and have good shock absorption.
You don't need specific tires, especially starting out. If you're committed to a training program and don't want to flatten out your good tire, a trainer tire like this is something to consider if you've got a spare rear wheel lying around but it's certainly not a necessity.
With a trainer, you lock the rear wheel into the trainer and make contact between your tire and some sort of cylinder that drives a flywheel which provides resistance. With rollers, you put your bike on top of three cylinders and keep it there through balance, patience, attention, and sheer force of will. If you're asking about the difference between rollers and trainers, you don't need rollers. Most training programs take for granted that you're using a trainer and not rollers - especially ones that focus on your power zones (rollers typically don't have any resistance on them - SportCrafters being a notable exception). Rollers are also harder to learn how to use properly and typically significantly more expensive than trainers of similar quality.
If you want a suggestion, go with the CycleOps Magneto trainer - it's about $250, pretty solid, easy to set up, provides progressive resistance (no knobs or levers to fiddle with) and is relatively quiet. If you can find one on Craigslist or something, so much the better. After a couple years you may want to upgrade and you'll probably have a better idea of what you're looking for based on your personal preferences.
Mongoose Tires 20x4
https://youtu.be/tkxU6a2esIA
Tristan also made a tutorial with the shop in Cali.a step by step,now I just do it myself and buy a couple of tubes on amazon.
Mongoose MG78457-6 Fat Tire Tube, 20 x 4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CGDVXL8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Q5D1DbWRH0TB7
I also put slime in my tires to plug any holes and carry a bike patch kit with me.Its my daily,had three flats due to construction sites, staples and nails everywhere.I avoid that area now but carrying this stuff and an air pump helps.good luck!
This guy?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008UY1MXW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bjAvDbRS1CN88
I love it
Thank you, so much for the response!
So, all we need are these four things, correct?
Tire
Wheel
Cassette - What size should I go with? Does this also mean that I need to put the chain back on, every time we swap out her wheel/tire?
Tube
They look pretty good! Quite a bit lighter than the Marathon Plus (which is their biggest criticism) which is a good thing, but of course a thinner puncture protection.
A Marathon Plus in 700x32c is only £24.48 with free delivery here on Amazon
That is what I would get for only £1.59 more.
I have used Kenda Kwik Trax and Continental Touring Plus. The Kendas were better off road, but the Continentals are more durable. I've heard great things about the Continental Gatorskin
Charger Combo CDN 5.76 From Would Like list.
For safer and more psychedelic bike rides CDN 2.27 From Under $5 stuff... for the most part list.
I've been using the Serfas Drifters for years.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ULU7SY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Nice. I haven't used that particular version of Schwalbe Marathon tires, but I'm sure they're great.
These are the ones I use. I like the tread pattern and these are the ones that people say are "bomb-proof". I commute 20 miles a day and I've ridden over all sorts of crap (LOTS of glass on my commute!) and the tires simply don't care. In fact, whenever I run over large glass fields I swear I hear the tires say "lol".
You want 700x32.
Brakes would need changed too, too expensive probably. Also there are good tires, this continental gatorskin is 27 x32, but is also too expensive.
I think that's a fine idea. Most of the race team guys run those all the time.
You asked for some extra puncture resistance, which is why I mentioned the 4 seasons.
Note that there are different 4000 tires i think. The ones I have experience with are specifically 4000sii, like these:
Continental Grand Prix 4000 S II Road Clincher, Black, 700 x 23-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G8QGTY6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PII4xbTXDQZCT
I think they're different from 4000s:
CONTINENTAL Grand Prix 4000s Road Bike Tire Black One Size https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CKH23S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gJI4xbM09VNGT
> Here's a review of The Best Smart trainers. The cheapest model on this list is $599 and EVERY MODEL on this list puts out noise levels in excess of 70dB.
That review doesn't isolate noise generated by the trainer from noise generated by the bike's drivetrain. My point still stands, modern trainers aren't nearly as loud as the old ones you're talking about.
> the flywheel bike will have a smaller footprint
Show me a flywheel bike that folds up this flat.
> Unless you get into the $1,200 and up models that don't use a tire, you're going to be wearing out tires.
Where are you getting your information? It's all wrong.
It's not recommended to ride your outdoor tires indoors. Get a $30 trainer tire, it will last several seasons. Problem solved.
> there's also some concern that bike trainers could damage carbon frames
Show 1 example of someone who broke their bike due to forces from the trainer. If this was actually a thing there would be examples all over the internet. Instead it's a bunch of people speculating that it might happen, like all the retrogrouches saying that wireless groupsets were going to be "hacked". This is such an outdated myth. All the pros train on trainers, considering the watts those athletes produce they would be the ones at risk for torquing a frame, but it NEVER happens, so stop perpetuating the myth.
$1.30 Thank you for the contest!
This. Kool Stop Tire Bead Jack.
Or this. CrankBrothers Speedier tire lever.
> So, as far as the wheel go, you're nsay that we should be fine with whatever aluminum wheel I can find online, since most wheels can handle the weight?
Pretty much. Wheels can sustain hundreds of pounds each, so you're splitting that weight across three, you'll be fine.
Something like this would be fine, but you don't really need to buy new. Any box-section alloy wheel will serve your purposes quite nicely ... survey your local used bike dealers, craigslist, etc...
Be more concerned about the health of the hubs than the weight of the wheels. I'd look for a cup/cone bearing hub. Folks looking to trade a little bit of durability for reduced rolling resistance will often remove one ball bearing and use very light grease, and make sure that the preload on the bearing cone is the minimum that will prevent any lash.
> if the Pro 4 Service Course is only mid-level when it comes to rolling resistance, what's a tire off the top if your head that you think would be a better choice?
The Continental Grand Prix TT is rated #1 in terms of rolling resistance at only 9.9 Watts/tire at 120psi. This blows away the field and everything in its price class. Pretty reasonably priced too. To get the most out of a good low rolling resistance tire, you should couple it with a latex tube. These are slightly more porous than "normal" butyl tubes so you'll need to re-pressure them daily, but they roll significantly better, especially when paired with a very supple tire.
Now, keep in mind that a tire like this is also delicate, so it'd be a good idea to have at least one replacement on hand in case of a sidewall tear or something due to road hazards.
If you'd like to choose a slightly more durable tire (like for testing, etc...) you should get a set of Continental Grand Prix 4000s ii. This is still a great rolling tire, but trades a few watts for durability.
Do not use your regular road tire! I "temporarily" used mine whilst I was waiting for my new wheel and trainer tire and ruined it. After riding on the trainer with the road tire, you can see the rubber that wears off after each use...which is quite a lot and the tire gets a flat spot in the center. The trainer tire I purchased is way more durable and doesnt leave rubber or wear nearly as much. This is the one I purchased along with a new wheel off Ebay. It takes just a minute to change, especially after watching this video.
For the side view.. I like something like a valve cap The kids in my neighborhood have them cuz they think they're cool, but they ALWAYS get my attention.
Actually, it's usually the rear wheel that gets punctured more often, so you'd want the more flat-resistant tire in the back.
You might also look into the Schwalbe Marathon. Gatorskins are more for road bikes, the Marathon might be better since it sounds like you go offroad occasionally. And they're about $33, so closer to your budget.
The one on that bike is a cheap CST with a kevlar-reinforced belt (this is not the same as kevlar bead, which means the tire doesn't have a metal wire bead so it folds flatter for storage, but does nothing to make the tire puncture resistant). Schwalbe also has several in their Marathon line, Michelin has a few City Bike tires, and a few other companies have stepped up too. (If you're a "go big or go home" person, Schwalbe's Big Apple is the concept taken to its logical "check for fork clearance" extreme.)
I honestly couldn't tell what was wrong. Just get some new tires, they're pretty cheap.
i use these tires for road/dirt and love em http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0088X3VL6/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
edit: doesn't do well on gravel (sinks), but handles slightly rocky paths like a champ
Schwalbe Marathon Plus HS 348
http://amzn.com/B005NGPJ4I
There is, but from what I can tell, they are designed to mount to QR skewers, not solid axles. You might be able to cut out a portion of the metal tab though.
Okay, so with $200, assuming I was doing the work:
Wrap handlebars - $11.53 (sweet dark red, cause the red on there looks awesome already)
Cheap 700c wheels from co-op - $20? (Talk with them about the gearing to see if the range is the same, or if you want tighter range or whatever, they probably have a few sets there with somewhat different gear ranges on the rear)
Saddle from co-op - $5-10
Tubes/tires - $45 (tires, tubes)
Derailleur cables - $7 (Shimano, here)
Brake cables - $10.39 (Shimano, here)
Brake levers - $22.53 (Tektro RL340)
Brakes - $62 - (Tektro 539 rear, front)
5-speed chain - 7.98 (here)
Then I'd try to get pedals and a cheap but aluminum quill stem, handlebars, and seatpost from the co-op. Depending on where you are, you may be able to get all for $20 or less. Functional new parts suggestions: (not guaranteed to fit. These have all sorts of different diameters over the years/models, so you need to know what you have/need. Handlebars, Seatpost, stem.)
Marathon Tires, I hardly ever get flats anymore.
Tube + Trainer tire. Be advised should you purchase the trainer tire. It's a real tight fit. The Amazon page has a nice exploded view.
https://www.amazon.com/Vittoria-Zaffiro-Home-Trainer-Fold/dp/B007IEHWDO
Rain doesn't hurt the bike, it's only water, and you will keep everything properly lubricated, won't you?
What causes the damage is cycling on wet roads without fenders. The spinning wheels throw water and grit onto the moving parts, this forms a grinding paste that strips oil off the moving parts, and rapidly wears down the steel in your drivetrain.
The only way around this is to get yourself a set of fenders, and get a model that's sufficiently long to keep your feet dry. If you think that fenders are too dorky (a silly sentiment), then there are fenders that quick release from the bike in a few minutes.
Everyone seems to love the Continental Gatorskins. The reviews on Amazon seem to support this.
Edit: Never mind, I think these tires are too narrow to fit your rim safely.
Yup. Bet you $5.
OP, check out http://www.amazon.com/Panaracer-Pasela-Tire-Wire-Gumwall/dp/B001CN6NMS/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1461084524&sr=1-1&keywords=pasela+27 tires. Good value for the money.
Thanks.
While I've got you, what's the difference between these two tires.
wire bead
other?
What does "wire bead" mean and why do/don't I want it?
Similar setup.. I don't have extra spokes, but I do bring a tube on 40+ mile rides.
Multitool is the Park I-Beam 2
CO2 is the Red Zepplin
Patch is Park Super Patch
Don't forget the Tire Lever (one if you're good, two if you ride stiff Conti's)
All easily fits in a Topeak bag
Definitely do a careful inspection of the entire tire looking for a foreign object. Different tires can make a huge difference in flat resilience.
Durability and flat resilience is super important to me on my commuter bike. I had a similar rash of flats a couple of years ago and then swapped to Continental Gatorskins and have not had a puncture flat on that bike in three years. They are quick, but can feel a little sketchy in wet conditions.
I run Schwalbe Marathon Plus Tour on my touring bike and have put more than 10,000 km on them through Patagonia and South East Asia on a heavily loaded touring bike with only one flat. They are great all weather and terrain tires, but not particularly fast.
I have used these patches and they are easy to use and very reliable.
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I'm seeing two when I view that link - the Vee tire that /u/happyjared was probably referring to, and a Mongoose tire in the suggestions.
Maybe it's a regional difference?
So I got my first flat on my way to work this morning, woefully unprepared, I was lucky to be about a half mile from home. After about a month of commuting to work I finally had a breakdown. it has been holding up well for about 100 miles on NYC streets on my new diamondback century sport (2017)
My tire says (26-622, 700x26C) https://imgur.com/a/pJoAQ
can anyone explain why it's impossible to find a bike tube that fits? I have googled for an hour and found some informstion yet they still sell bike tubes as "26x1-1.5in" "26x 2-2.5 in" and I'm getting frustrated they do this nonsense. I believe the 26C translates to 26mm and about 1.02 inches, so a 26x 1-1.5in bike tube would fit?
I bought this tube because I think it will fit but it's probably a bit big
Continental 60mm Presta Valve Tube, Black, 700 x 25-32cc https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008ZTM9AW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mXSlzbFT5PHHR
I think will fit and I got a mini pump so next time I can fix it and get back on my commute.
Thanks!
The tread on those is pretty damn slick, and the grass is on enough of a slope that if it's been raining for more than 3 days my current wheels will spin a few places, plus they look like they'd be deadly in the snow. I'd like something a little more well-rounded, these were recommended from my original link and they seem to be a little more like what I need.
Thanks for the quick response and the education. So I think this should work:
Yes thank you. Green Guru Top Tube Protector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A8JQVDI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_ceoQwbXD717BM
I like it!
As a fellow singlespeed rider I recommend you do yourself the favor and grab a Brooks B17 saddle, it's the best upgrade I ever bought for mine, after a week or so it became just as comfortable as everyone says. If you need new tires I like the Continental GP4000SII, they are fairly expensive but I found they are simply perfect for street and city riding with surprisingly good flat protection.
Much fun in any case, the bike looks like tons of fun :)
http://www.amazon.com/Crank-Brothers-Speed-Bicycle-Lever/dp/B001BIZARI is the one I see cited as the best.
They've also come out with the Speedier Lever: http://www.amazon.com/Crank-Brothers-Speedier-Lever-Black/dp/B008UY1MXW