Best billiards equipment according to redditors
We found 183 Reddit comments discussing the best billiards equipment. We ranked the 131 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
4. Cue Accessories Its George Tip Tool
3 mentions
Keeps the tip of your cue rough to better hold chalk
Options:
Edit: I totally forgot to mention that emery boards work perfectly for this procedure and are actually my preferred tool.
I think its for bottle pool and/or Kelly pool
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005GVGSFO/ref=asc_df_B005GVGSFO5278076/
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kelly_pool
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bottle_pool
You'll get some good tips on how to power break in here, so instead of rehashing those I thought I'd mention another option.
Modern pool pros no longer do the "hit'n'hope" type of break that was popular years ago. Good players have figured out that it's possible to make the same ball on the break every single time, as long as the rack is tight. And a lot of new racks have emerged over the years that give a perfectly tight rack... especially the Magic Ball Rack.
So my suggestion is... put the power break away for a while, and see if you can learn how to make a ball intentionally on your breaks. This will be useful for a lot of reasons:
If you're playing 8 ball, there are 2 types of break you can use, and both types have at least 3 different balls that are likely to go (though far from guaranteed).
Type 1: The controlled power break - this one is honestly hard to execute. Try it if you want but don't be surprised if it has limited success. It needs a perfect rack, accurate hit, and probably a 20+ mph break. So in other words, it's exactly what you were saying you struggle with haha. But it's amazing to see top pros make it work.
When it's hit well, the balls in the 2nd row (14 and 15 in this diagram) head towards the side pocket. Also one of the corner ball flies all the way around the table, going 4 rails and ending up in a corner pocket. But for that to happen they have to dodge a LOT of traffic.
The diagram: https://pad.chalkysticks.com/ee1b2.png
The actual break in action: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P3eVaA_er1s&feature=youtu.be&t=600 (10:00)
This is one of the best breakers in the world so he makes it look easy. You can see the yellow stripe fly directly into the side, and the green stripe hits the nipples and comes very close. You can also see the corner ball (light blue stripe) fly around 4 rails and go in the corner. Keep watching this guy throughout this match and others, and you'll see it's no fluke... it's the same balls dropping over and over.
Type 2: 2nd ball break. My preferred method cuz I suck at power breaking. You hit a 2nd row ball intentionally instead of the ball at the top. No rule against it. This creates an entirely different result, but it's also got at least 3 balls that very reliably go towards pockets. It also has a small chance of making the 8 on the break.
The diagram: https://pad.chalkysticks.com/fb63c.png
(for clarity, I'm not showing the 2's path to its nearest pocket, but often it goes)
The corner ball opposite from you seems to fly straight into the pocket if the rack is right and you hit from the correct angle. https://youtu.be/TfXcWdJ6WuY?t=90 ...watch the 9 ball. Very often, the corner ball on the other side of the rack can go too. Sometimes both go. Sometimes one of them banks into the other corner.
This is the ball you're really playing to make, the other balls I mention below are just "Plan B".
It's all about a combination of a tight rack and the correct aim. You don't aim to hit the 2nd ball as full as possible. You aim to cut it a little... almost like cutting it down the diagonal line formed by the triangular shape of the rack. Here's where you're trying to hit: http://imgur.com/35cec4U
Plan B - 2nd (or 3rd) row ball BANKS into the opposite side. For me, this happens almost any time the corner ball comes close but fails. Watch the purple stripe: https://youtu.be/TfXcWdJ6WuY?t=170
The rest of the video shows some of the other stuff that can happen on this break.
8 on the break: This is pretty complex... sometimes it seems to fly straight in and other times it only seems to work with a late kiss. But it does often go into the opposite side pocket. This guy does a good job explaining the aim, which is the less-than-full hit on the 2nd ball I mentioned earlier. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5iabp28yp00
Beware, a very common side effect of this break is all the balls cluster on the side rail, the same side you broke from. I've seen on a couple of occasions literally every ball on one half of the table. It makes for a really tough runout.
Also... you're breaking from the side rail. So be careful not to elevate the cue (it's easy to jump off the table) and make sure you use some firm draw (it's easy to fly directly off the rack and scratch into the corner). You can optionally add some left or right english to help move the cue ball back towards the middle of the table. Otherwise it tends to get stuck along the bottom rail or even scratch in the other corner. But adding sidespin does make it tougher to execute.
For those looking to skip the process of creating your own leather carrying case, my friend actually makes a cue ball case called a Ballsak that is also weatherproof.
Looks cool. I was looking around for a similar solution as well and found a couple below. Yours looks great though!
I had jb cases add the ballholder in my lid. Also there is one for sale on Amazon as well.
How about a case? I have a JB Rugged case and I haven't found one in the world so far that I like better. You can pick one out that they have in stock, or design your own. They're the bomb.
https://jbcases.com/cases-for-sale-instock/rugged-cases.html?size=49
Cues are so subjective that it would be best to have him pick one out than to surprise him with one. Also, if he hasn't been playing very long, he should probably wait a while before getting a new cue so he can hit with others' cues and get a feel for what he likes and doesn't like.
Edit - some other ideas:
Last4Ever Tip Tool
Aramith Super Pro cue ball
Aramith Measle cue ball
BallSak cue ball case
It's a bottle for Bottle Pool. Fun game!
edit: Here... wanna buy one?
I second u/GreenGiantt 's recommendation of Predator. I bought https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMVNFZG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 a while back and really love it.
https://www.amazon.com/Aramith-AR1060-Ball-Cleaner/dp/B007LERQU0
+1 on the willard shaper. the media is brazed on and will last forever.
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q claws are a great accessory.
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blue diamond chalk
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maybe a red dot cue ball by aramith ( seems like EVERYone in APA league brings their own)
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some people like to shoot with a glove, they are relatively inexpensive.
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quarter holder like this
Unnecessary, I think this is the same case.
https://www.amazon.com/Hard-Billiard-Stick-Carrying-Black/dp/B0060BANBO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468277792&sr=8-2&keywords=2x4+cue+case
I have these. They're entirely adequate. I still use them regularly if I'm too lazy to go get my cue out of it's case.
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ECZU9U
That led me to this: https://www.amazon.com/Cuetec-Billiard-Plastic-Talley-Shaker/dp/B005GVGSFO/, and this https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kelly_pool
This is the exact set we had. I think we used to call it Killer Pool, and my dad never corrected us because it was adorable. :D
Thanks friend!
No worries! Here's a starting point!
This too. Any lot on Ebay is a good place to start.
So I'm gonna just list a bunch of things off the top of my head that I can think of.
Some more supplies you'll need:
Silicone Grease: Use this any time you have to seal something or lubricate it. Eyedroppers get sealed with silicone grease, pistons lubricated, stuff like that. I use it to seal the hoods on hooded pens (Parker 51) rather than shellac (a kind of adhesive - it's next on the list) because to remove a shellacced hood, you need heat. Heat is dangerous. Plenty of Parker 51 hoods have been destroyed by people going crazy with heat trying to melt the shellac.
Now, any good repairman will use heat before trying to unscrew a hood - but with silicone grease, there's nothing to melt. So they'll just heat it a bit, then try to remove the hood, and not have to heat it any further like they would with shellac. Limits possibilities for damage.
Get a jar of Trident silicone grease off Amazon, or go to a local dive shop and say you need to grease an oxygen tank's valve. Shouldn't cost more than $10 for a crapton of it.
Shellac. This is essentially glue that melts with heat. You want orange shellac. Not sure what's wrong with any other shellac, but I don't care enough to ruin a pen finding out.
You'll use this mainly to attach sacs to pens. Possibly to seal threaded barrels (use silicone grease if the barrel needs to be sealed or nothing if it doesn't. Screwing it in should be enough on its own. No need to use shellac or even silicone grease. The exception is piston fillers and stuff that'll spill ink if you unscrew it. Then you use shellac. A lever filler or a button filler doesn't need silicone grease or shellac except if it's a loose fit), possibly to seal hoods (silicone grease is my tool of choice, but some disagree), and who knows what else. If you think "Oh, super glue would be great here!", stop and use shellac.
Anderson sells this, as do tons of other places. Hardware stores. It's not a pen-specific thing, you can find it locally cheaper than any pen repair place will sell it to you, but you only need a little bit. If you have need for removable glue in other places, get a big can of it from a hardware store.
Talc/graphite powder. Talc is better, but graphite is fine too - just messy.
They're used to keep the sac from sticking to the barrel walls. You'll learn more about it on Richard Binder's page.
Speaking of Binder, you'll see that he says "talcum powder" instead of talc. They're different. Talcum powder has additives in it that can damage a latex sac. Don't mess with talcum powder. This is the stuff you want. Not something like this. Look at the ingredients list, and look at all the stuff that isn't talc.
Sacs. If you're in the US, Woodbin probably has the best price out there. They're in Canada, but the shipping is fast and cheap (like $4). You'll want latex sacs for the most part, but some pens with really pretty celluloid (especially jade celluloid, which discolors when latex sacs degrade and offgas. Other colors do too, but jade is famous for it and very common) will warrant a silicone sac. I haven't bought any silicone sacs yet, so I'm not actually sure that Woodbin sells them. They probably do though, and you should pick some up.
Get a few of every size. Esterbrooks take size 16. Middle sizes like that are most common, but when you get into nicer pens (and some not-so-fancy ones. I've got this awesome Wearever combo with a nice stub nib on it that I restored with a size 19. Big sac, big pen. Cheap pen, low quality though. Not exactly a Sheaffer Balance combo) you'll see bigger sacs coming into play.
A hemostat. Basically medical clamps that are good for pulling j-bars, retainers, stuff like that out of pens. Alligator clamps are precision, they're good for sticking levers and snap rings and retainers back in, but sometimes you need more force than alligator clamps allow (they've got pretty weak grip). For that, use a hemostat. For both hemostats and alligator clamps, get something fairly cheap, and long enough to fit down barrels. 5.5" alligator clamps are doing fine for me, even on OS pens. Get a hemostat of similar size.
Now, snap rings. These are a pain in the ass sometimes. Read Richard Binder's guide on removing/replacing/inserting levers in pens if you don't know about snap rings.
Snap rings are basically just little bits of springy wire that hold levers in place on some pens. Usually lower end pens I think, but not always. I've yet to encounter a lever fill Wearever that doesn't use one, but there's a first time for everything. Vintage pens are notoriously inconsistent. Companies would make a change to a model, but use up old stock, so you've got some pens that look like they might be frankenpens. A non-snap ring Wearever could be something like that.
Disregard what he says about pushing down at a 45 degree angle to free the snap ring from its notch in the barrel. Push it straight down, then push it to one side once you've moved it down a bit (out of its notch in the barrel, but you probably won't be able to tell immediately). If you push at an angle, you risk cracking/chipping/damaging the plastic/ebonite. If you do it my way, you could maybe damage the snap ring, but snap rings are easy to remake, and there's nothing special about any of them. They're little bits of wire, nothing more.
I can't tell you how to make a new one, cuz I haven't had to yet. Look it up if you need to know at any point.
This is advice on fixing lever fillers, but also relates to snap rings specifically. This is why I don't like them much.
They're disposable. I hate that word, I think it's wasteful. Pens, razors, phones, appliances, cups, plates, just about everything we buy nowadays is disposable, and it's a disaster for our planet. (rant over) But really - if you need to damage a snap ring to possibly repair a pen, do it. Better to waste a snap ring than a pen. Bending them out of shape does nothing, they revert to the original shape when you put them in the barrel (by compression) but cutting them shorter does reduce how much pressure they exert on the lever.
Read this post about a lever filler I recently restored. I posted the same thing on FPN and here, but this thread was more active. Same title I believe, search for it if you want the other ones. Or look at my submissions.
So aside from my snap ring advice, my lever filler advice is that when you're having trouble making everything fit nice, diagram it. Draw it out. Be detailed. What's having force exerted on it? In what direction? What might be impeding something's motion or keeping it from going where it needs to? Plastic shrinks over time (really, it does. It's a pain in the ass), how could shrinkage have contributed to this problem? How could any of this be changed, either by me or by someone with greater skill/equipment to fix the problem?
For example, go look at my diagrams from that post. The diagram of the lever, specifically. I thought for a while that the plastic had shrunk, so now the back of the lever was just barely pressing up against the inside of the barrel, keeping it from laying flat without me pressing on it. I was wrong - but it wasn't a stupid guess. Well, maybe it was, there probably woulda been more resistance if that were the problem.
But the point is, look for all possibilities, and try whichever one will cause less damage to fix first, not the one you think will succeed. I bent that lever a bit when I didn't have to, and had to bend it back. That's permanent damage to the metal now. Shoulda noticed the snap ring that I could've cut short and done that first.
One last thing for now - when you ask for help online, be detailed. Draw your diagrams and post them. Give all the detail you can. Give your theories. Give pen models and dates and everything you can.
:)
Get one of these to put on the kids' table. :)
Creatine Monohydrate Powder 1kg @ $10.87 ... $0.054 per 5g dose
Instantized BCAA Powder 500g @ $25.18 ... $0.252 per 5g dose
Citrulline Malate ... 500g @ $23.05 ... $0.092 per 2.5g dose
L-Carnitine ... 250g @ $13.54 ... $0.081 per 1.5g dose
Caffeine ... dirt cheap
Mini Billiard Balls ... $15.50 ... put 4 of these in a large container ( I use an old bb.com casein tub ) and shake, rattle, roll to mix. Helps to break up any clumps, and won't chip / leave particles in your powder.
I use the above products. Creatine I put in my post workout shake, the rest I use in my pre-workout, flavored with sugar-free drink packets from Walmart + 1/2 serving of gatorade powder.
( if you don't have a small 0.01 gram scale, get one, they are cheap and extremely useful, especially when dosing caffeine ... amazon, ebay, powdercity, etc )
Seems to be a good deal
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001FYI0XE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1418247258&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40
http://www.amazon.com/Hightech-Information-System-Crossfire-Bridge/dp/B00589F0LM
The house cues around my area always seem to be Valley cues, similar to these.
My university gym can only use liquid chalk so I've bought a bottle for when we run out sometimes and found the best use of it for outdoors. Use liquid chalk as a base layer, and then continue using my regular chalk when needed.
This is what my gym uses, and I find it better than Mammut brand, http://www.amazon.com/Edelweiss-Liquid-Chalk/dp/B000MWC9IM
its george tip tool is my favorite.
https://www.amazon.com/Its-George-tip-tool/dp/B0002TX1S2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522141790&sr=8-1&keywords=its+george
Just in case someone is looking for this https://amzn.to/30xy3UA because a basic Google search didn't find it for me.
Since I am unfamiliar with chalk or liquid chalk, could you recommend a quality brand?
Would something like this work?
Did not know this existed. Just looked it up -- thank you!!
The Aramith Super Pro Cup TV Cue Ball is a very good cue ball. If you don't like the "measles", you can get the non-TV version. There are also cue ball carrying cases that clip onto your cue case.
Before I started buying individual balls though, I'd weigh your cue ball and a few object balls to make sure the cue ball is actually heavier.
I bought this one. Not only is it a fantastic break cue, it's a three piece and makes for a solid short cue as well!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EAIF6SY/
This is what I use. It is cheap, stays out of the way and holds the chalk pretty well. I shoot right handed and keep it attached to the front right pocket of my pants.
It works great for square chalk but I had to modify it a little because I use [Predetor] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMVNFZG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) chalk. I used the chalk holder part of this and glued a small washer to the bottom.
Looks very nice, I will be building one eventually.
For now I am just using this on the cue ball after each session:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007LERQU0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I figure if I clean all the balls once a week they won't get too dirty.
Q Wiz Q Wiz Q Wiz Q Wiz Q Wiz Q Wiz.
https://www.amazon.com/Q-Wiz-Q-Wiz-Cleaner-Burnisher/dp/B003UCEADS
It's chalk in liquid form that dries really quickly. It's perfect for gyms where they ban regular chalk (like mine) http://www.amazon.com/Edelweiss-Liquid-Chalk/dp/B000MWC9IM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1370651741&sr=8-1&keywords=edelweiss+liquid+chalk Edelweiss is the stuff I use and it works like a charm for all my lifts. I've used others but I like how thick this particular brand is and how much chalk it coats your hands in. Warning all liquid chalks look like semen of different viscosity before you apply them and they dry. You've been warned.
> I'd get a cheap break cue rather than changing the tip... you can probably find one for $50 and a tip change will cost you 30 in a lot of places anyway
For the same amount, I'd just get this break cue (which I did buy) - http://www.amazon.com/Rage-Heavy-Hitter-Break-25-Ounce/dp/B00EAIF6SY. I used to just break with my playing cue too, but I tried out my friend's break cue and love the heaviness of it (since I'm not a hard breaker) and just let the weight of the cue spread the balls for me. My break % has jumped at least 20-30%
http://www.amazon.com/Cuetec-Shaft-S-S-T-Tru-Glide-Silver/dp/B002GZ51QU
That will fit but for a few bucks more you could just replace the whole shebang.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001FYI0XE/ref=s9_acsd_hps_bw_c_x_1
Well, I can get you a baby-sized pool table with cubit-long cue sticks for $25.
Pea Shake houses are all over the east coast and mid west. Buy your own pea shake bottle off Amazon for $5 and start a crime wave.
Very cool. It's a very thin cellophane material with the outline of a triangle or diamond. Holes in the outer edge hold the outside balls in a constant state of pushing against the inside balls. Absolute perfect racks and you don't scuff your nice new cloth by sliding a traditional rack back and forth.
Magic Ball Rack 8, 9, and 10 Ball Combo Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CP8QFDQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_203NDbF3VEKKQ
Are they both the same chip? If they're both the same "base" card, whatever cooling is on it shouldn't make a difference as long as they are the same series. I'm not exactly sure wether it will out-perform a 760, and you will need to check whether your motherboard is cross-fire capable, and whether it can crossfire with or without the bridge.
>this weird coating
Yes, it's called soap.
I use this stuff - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Aramith-Billiard-Pool-Cleaner-Polish/dp/B007LERQU0
Out of interest, has anybody ever tried making a ball cleaner out of a rock tumbler or vibrating bowl like this: https://www.sandblasters.co.uk/250mm-vibratory-tumbler-parts-cleaner--polisher-20kg-capacity-model-10-sp-b-79-p.asp
I've already been down the orbital polisher in a bucket route and one of the idiotic bar staff at my local club burned it out after a few weeks
My favorite tip tool is the Last4Ever tip tool. I like the dime radius but there is a nickel radius version and a combination one too.
I also like my Justa Bridge head a lot.
My preferred chalkers are these cheap magnetic ones. The one I bought years ago was like $2 on eBay and took a month to get to me from Singapore but I love it.
Also, a Q Claw or other type of cue holder is essential for me and I keep leaving mine at the pool hall so these have to get replaced pretty regularly.
Here ya go.
http://www.amazon.com/Silver-Cup-Premium-Powder-Shaker/dp/B005U4A9KW/ref=lp_3042527011_1_3?srs=3042527011&ie=UTF8&qid=1459381479&sr=8-3
I also have some pure talc in storage, coincidentally for fountain pen restoration as well. If you're looking for just a tiny bit, let me know and I can probably just send you some.
I use this one. Doesn't last very long, maybe a year. But it's cheap, and I play almost every day. YMMV.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GN72E9E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sI8GybZB36HKT
They are all dosed at approximately the lower end of what http://examine.com says is an effective dose.
From memory, I dosed the BCAAs at 5g ( as opposed to 10g as often recommended ) because they are the most expensive ingredient.
A few of the stims like synephrine, hordenine, and higenamine are just there in minimally effective amounts, as I had ordered small sample size packets to experiment with during my year long cut.
I'm hesitant to list amounts, as I don't want to be responsible for people mixing up batches of some 'magic potion' because 'some dude on the internet said it would turn me into a face eating zombie.'
I ordered all of the powders from http://powdercity.com, as they have really good prices compared to elsewhere, with the exception of the matcha green tea powder which I got from a vendor on amazon.com in bulk awhile back. Oh, and the HMB for whatever reason I have a hard time finding for a good price from a US vendor, so I ordered 1kg of it from a vendor in the UK.
I mix it all up at once in an old bodybuilding.com foundation series 2lb casein container, as the BB.com containers are heavy duty plastic with lids that seal well, compared to some other whey powder tubs that are kind of flimsy.
I put 4 or so mini billiard balls in the tub with the powder and shake, rattle, roll it around until everything is mixed really well. It doesn't take long to get a good mix with the balls in there, and I give it a shake and roll briefly before I use it each time for a few seconds for good measure. They sink to the bottom and don't get in the way of me trying to spoon it out until near the end, at which time I know I need to check my powder stock as it's almost time to mix a new batch. Then I just take the balls out for the last dose or 2.
As for how I determine amounts and dosages ... for each ingredient, I take the single dose weight, and multiply it by the batch size. So for a 500mg dose x 30 doses = 15 grams total. Then I weigh out 15 grams using a small digital scale, and dump it in the plastic tub, and write down the total weight. I do this for each ingredient. At the end, I add up the total weight of the entire batch, and divide it by the # of doses, so in this example, total weight of all product / 30 = weight for 1 dose. Then when I make my preworkout drink, I just weigh out the single dose amount.
Add a little gatorade for a minor amount of carbs and dem electrolytes that plants crave, and a sugar free hawaiin punch drink packet ( the lemonade flavored ones are my favorite, avoid the orange, not tangy enough, and the 'tangy' flavors seem to mask the more bitter components well ) as those are the cheapest flavoring I can find locally ( like $1 for 8 or 10 packets at walmart ) and drink it down.
I like the 'It's George'.