(Part 2) Best boating & sailing accessories according to redditors

Best of luck! If you can't find one, this item has free same day delivery...

that's a shitty small air horn from the dollar store. no comparison to the regular ones.

http://www.dollartree.com/catalog/search.cmd?form_state=searchForm&keyword=air%20horn&x=0&y=0

vs


http://www.amazon.com/Falcon-Safety-Push-Button-Horn/dp/B0001ZVQZM/ref=pd_sim_sg_6

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000RZFBKW/ref=s9_top_hm_awbw_bEG5t_g200_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-12&pf_rd_r=A6RERNZ74KSRZ06515GP&pf_rd_t=30901&pf_rd_p=543d89b3-fdac-54ec-bc8c-56b509bc734c&pf_rd_i=3398461

Technically, it’s boat

So if I understand this correctly, he wants to spend $24,960,000,000.00 for a measure that can be circumvented for less than $20? How is being a f**king idiot supposed to make America great again?

No, the codes exist for this very reason, so regardless of what you plug in your wiring will be safe to the plug. Why do you think they give you options for choosing your amperage in the Tesla?

Companies make these already, like this one. The only thing new here is OP showing that the 14-50 adapter will run without two hot legs.

This should do the trick:
https://www.amazon.com/SZCO-Supplies-Grappling-Hook-Cord/dp/B015X1O65K

Blue Sea Systems 12 Volt Dash Socket - $8.99

Blue Sea Systems m-Series Battery Switch - $34.62

Smartlive LED String lights DC 12V 10m 33feet 100 LEDS,Warm White - $9.99

DROK Digital Multimeter DC 6.5-100V 100A Voltage Amperage Power Energy Meter - $17.89

ISWEES Dual USB Car Cigarette Lighter Socket Splitter 12V Car Charger - $11.89

Blue Sea Systems ST Blade Fuse Block - 12 Circuits with Negative Bus & Cover - $37.24

BEP Digital Voltage Sensing Relay (DVSR) 12/24V - $78.46

BESTEK 400W Power Inverter DC 12V to AC 110V Car Adapter with 5A 4 USB Charging Ports -$35.99

UB121000 12V AGM Battery 100AH - $125.21 + $34.69 Shipping = $159.90

If you're waiting in line all day I recommend getting a stadium seat.

Sitting in line all day with nothing to lean against and no padding is really bad for your back. Getting a stadium seat made waiting in line a breeze and it was also really nice to lean against something. The one I linked to above is the one I used (this will be the 4th con I'll be using it at) and it's very portable.

Hey, don't be afraid to ask a librarian for help. They are alll about the rules, my friend! They have your back.

Don't forget that many people actually like helping others. They are literally standing there waiting for an opportunity to help as a way to distract them from boring other work. You'll be able to tell right away if they are annoyed, but seriously, if they're annoyed that's their problem. It is the librarian's job to help you!

Edit to add, again: Do you have to have a chair? The reason I ask is that I just sat on the floor at the end of long aisles of books where no-one ever goes. If the floor grosses you out, maybe bring a floor-cover or one of those foam stadium chairs that have a back and pretend you're on a picnic.

Is a life preserver like this sufficient for flying over/around the Chesapeake Bay? I don't plan on flying over water that often, and it's not that much distance over water, so I'd probably be out of glide range of land for only short periods of time. I want to be prepared, but I'm not sure I need a bigger, over-the-shoulder style one. Thoughts, please?

You really can't beat the GCI Sitbacker. Been going on an annual 4-day canoe trip for about 10 years and some of the guys still have their original chair.

http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Charger-Socket/dp/B0082CXEI8

You don't have to use Armyteks mount. I run my Viking pro in this Magpul mount. The Viking has a 1" diameter body so it will fit in any mount that can hold a 1" light.

This is always my suggestion for anyone asking the best way to have removable but effective tie down points.

Use these underneath the hood and hatch for quick non permanent tie down points. Sherpak 078115 Quick Loops (Pair) , Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0024AVPO4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JDZIBb99AK3JQ

And these so you don't have to worry about dealing with knots. Sentry Ratchet Kayak and Canoe Bow and Stern Tie Downs 1/4" Grow Light Heavy Duty Adjustable Rope Hanger (2-Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XVFDM5W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IFZIBbHAJX6WB

I'm 26 and 200 (with around 30 pounds of tackle, anchor, fishfinder, battery, etc. on board as well) with what I'd like to think is a pretty good sense of balance. I added a stand assist strap, and I can stand up in calm water to stretch and do some spotting, but anything more than that gets pretty darn sketchy.

I have yet to take mine into saltwater, but I absolutely don't see why not. It's actually 12'6", and I feel that the effective beam is much closer to 28" instead of the advertised 30". All things considered, it's a pretty quick boat for its class.

This is my mounting setup for my Garmin 5DV. I got a smokin' deal on it, which came in handy because RAM mounts are surprisingly expensive. Worth every penny so far though. I think the lighter-duty (and slightly shorter, which was the killer for me) RAM mount for a 4DV or other, vertical-screen fishfinder is close to half the price of the one I got though. All in all, a pretty easy install, just be wary of hidden costs such as transducer arm, battery, mounts, jerry-rigging hardware, etc. I suppose the good news is that I could move this setup to damn near any kayak (or even real boat) I want in the future with very minimal fuss.

Definitely cartoppable with the help of some load assist devices. Grab one of these and consider using a set of saddles that have rollers. I'm personally using a pair of Yakima Mako Saddles and a pair of Yakima Hully Rollers on my 2015 Subaru Impreza hatchback. If you're planning on using those sketchy foam blocks.... well..... good luck?

One important point to consider is that the stock seat is total dogshit. I bought one of these and added a 1.5" ass-pad underneath it and I gained worlds of comfort while still retaining a relatively low, efficient paddling position. I'm of the opinion that all of the fancy lawn chair setups found in higher-end kayaks, while supremely comfortable, aren't high enough to really provide much of a vision advantage while at the same time add a serious detriment to your paddling efficiency. To be fair, when I learned to kayak as a kid, it was through whitewater, so my ideas surrounding paddling are probably somewhat biased.

I seed and sawed on getting this model boat, among others, for months while I worked up funds for it, and then suddenly my friend offered to sell me his, barely used and with a fiberglass shaft paddle of correct length, for $250, leaving me plenty of funds to modify it to my liking.

This fence line is just shy of 90 feet and my setup works pretty well at that length. I used pretty small diameter pvc so it’s not much weight; I can’t imagine reinforcement would be needed for the watering— maybe for the vines depending. It’s not a raging torrent of water it basically is just a steady drip but it saturates pretty well when run in cycles and not run during the heat of the day.

My initial version of this setup was a single battery and small solar panel and it ran fine for a year or more (granted I’m in SoCal so we get a lot of sun)— I’ve since expanded a bit to a 4 battery setup and larger panel but just because I added two more pumps for covering other areas.

Here’s a picture of the control box of a basic single battery system with timer and a simple solar controller
https://i.imgur.com/JOfGqdp.jpg


Here’s some of the basic gear:

Water Storage
===========================

Current Water tank
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003H9WJMI/

(Although I’ve also used smaller/cheaper tanks like this for my vegetable garden, just might mean more refills depending on how often it’s run: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BFC5NIA/ )

If you’re looking to go super cheap, I honestly started my first setup with a couple modified 5 gallon plastic water bottles I stole from my office like these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003B27RAA/


Power
===========================

Current solar panel for a 4 battery setup:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HFMBF3G

Previous panel for single battery system:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PFGP0EA


Solar regulator (keeps you from blowing up the battery! The smaller panel comes free with one that works fine, I just liked this one better because it had more lights!): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L37KZI6/

Batteries, one is plenty for a single pump system:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003S1RQ2S/

(obviously if you wanted to build a system on the cheap you could bypass the solar entirely and drop $20 on a second battery that you leave charging and just swap them back and forth every week or three, depending on how often/long you run the system)


Pump
===========================

Current Pump:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072BXBQGC/

Although I’ve also used cheaper ones like these for drip systems and they were fine:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07699RMVB

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WYMC492

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DLKT4OO


Misc
===========================

Timer (has like 16 stop/start memories which should be plenty for any configuration):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0090MTLFO


If there is some interest next weekend I could draw up a complete wiring/assembly diagram and detailed parts list and make a separate post (and include all the sundries: wire, hose, clamps, filters, waterproof project box, couplings, drip heads, etc).

I have a couple of these seats. They work pretty well for short day trips. The main benefit for me is that it relieves some of the lower back strain that I feel sitting in the canoe.

We bought the babies life jackets and a boat! How can you beat $12.29 on Amazon prime? The idea is for more playtime at the water even when water isn't warm enough for them to stay in very long. Plus a comfy place to hang out.

MIL called to apologize last night for yesterday. I really appreciate the gesture. But the way she delivered the apology and the fact that problems keep happening make me still less enthusiastic about the babies being there all day every day with my husband once I'm back at work.

I like the horn idea.combined with a 18 million watt flashlight =)

Good training will cover emergency scenarios like you describe. Basically, I can image imagine two scenarios involving water landing: engine out and loss of vehicle control. Here's how I would handle them.

For an engine out over water:

1. Check any surge (the forward movement of the wing that comes from a rapid deceleration) with brake input. Steer the wing. Aviate towards safe terrain that can serve as a landing zone.
   
2. If you still have a lot of altitude, attempt to restart the motor. (It is always better to regain powdered flight if possible).
   
3. Whether the motor restarts or not, land immediately once possible, and preferably into the wind.
   
4. If landing on ground isn't possible and the motor does not restart (or you are at low enough altitude that you can't risk a restart) begin un-clipping from the harness progressively as you the approach the water. Legs first, then waist, then chest (the idea being that its harder to get to the further connection points while in the water). Ideally, your pace should match with your altitude (so that you don't fall out too soon). Limit any connections between you and the vehicle (you may wish to have a hook knife in hand at this point).
   
5. As your legs hit the water, jump forward away from the vehicle. Swim clear.
   
6. Since you're smart and wore a PFD to fly over water, inflate it now. Do not attempt to recover your wing or motor until after you have reached safety. Again, you're smart, and you equipped your motor with floatation, so it'll handle itself until rescued.
   
   For loss of vehicle control over water:
   
   
7. At higher altitudes, assess the situation. If the wing is likely to recover with no or minimal input, give it those inputs and enough time to say aloud "ohfuckohfuckohfuckohfuck". Mentally prepare to deploy reserve.
   
8. If the wing hasn't recovered after your brief cuss session, you are at too low an altitude to await a recovery, or the situation is deemed irrecoverable, follow the procedure to deploy your reserve. "Look, grab, pull, clear, throw!"
   
9. Once the reserve is deployed, disable the glider wing if possible. In this scenario, I would recommend using a hook knife to cut the glider's risers, but I don't think I advocate pulling the wing in towards you (to prevent entangling yourself when in the water). Downplaning in bad, but getting caught in the lines in water is worse. As you approach the water, follow the procedures for motor out, above, starting at (4).

PFD

Here’s my write up on JeepForum

This is the fuse block I used

I used 6-position covered terminal blocks similar to these, although I got them for $3/ea at a local store

This was my ground bus bar. it was cheaper when I bought it, and 10-position is nice but I probably could’ve gotten away with less

These are the waterproof sealed relays I would recommend

This is the circuit breaker I wish I used, but I had the 150A on hand. I’ll probably swap it out at some point

Edit: to add on, I used heatshrink on noninsulated female disconnects so that I could have everything properly color coordinated for easier work if I needed to make repairs/modifications in the future. I only used 1/4” Red/Yellow/Black HS on the board :)

EDIT 2: I used the wrong link for my writeup. It's fixed now!

You could use that along with some aluminum tape to seal it to the back of the cutter.

I use this blower:
attwood Quiet Blower Water Resistant (White, 4-Inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003EX02DA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3L18BbTB6G1FB

Along with this vent hose:
White Flexible Pvc Vinyl Vent Duct Hose, 4 in. x 20 ft. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G198P5A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4R18BbNJ19ANP

These clamps:
Cambridge Tension Clamps, 2 Pk, Zinc Plated Steel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07737XRRH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SS18Bb12827MZ

And this quick disconnect:
Dryer Dock Dryer Vent 6" for 4" Tubes, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0028BAAWW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4T18BbV6CJ1TW

If you put the blower near the window it will keep negative pressure upstream which helps put less smoke into the room.

I don’t exhaust out a window, but something like this might do the trick for you:
Window Dryer Vent (Adjusts 24 Inch Through 36 Inch) by Vent Works https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M17V4CO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_AW18BbDW0592D
Though there may be cheaper or better DIY options for that part.

This is the fan I used for mine, it's borderline leaf blower status and fits 4" flexible dryer exhaust tube perfectly. Draws 2.5A. Highly recommended.

Attwood Quiet Blower Water Resistant (White, 4-Inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003EX02DA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9XLCzbD3X657Y

Using a float switch is also a good idea, so you don't run it dry and burn out your pump.

The more holes you can drill in the bucket (without compromising its integrity and leaving a reasonable volume for water at the bottom) the better. More surface area means more evaporation.

I had issues with mine leaking the first year. I found I had much better luck cutting the outer pad so that it's pushed against the inside of the bucket. I put the vinyl tube hoop on top of the inner pad, and tied it with thread so it can't move. It doesn't leak at all using this method, as the outer pad only gets damp by soaking up water from the saturated inner pad. And it works better, because there is no gap between the pad and the bucket for air to go through, it has to all flow through the pads.


http://imgur.com/a/0SyOy

Hell yeah, that was my thinking, too. "Everything and the kitchen sink."

I used a little 12v pressure pump from Amazon, found here. It's 35PSI and 1.1GPM of flow. Perfectly fine for rinsing off dishes or washing hands or filling up the dog bowl. I have it running into a 3.5 gal Reliant freshwater jug which is enough water for dishes and hand washing for a couple days.

It draws about a peak of 3.5A @ 12v but since it is a pressure pump it only draws power when the faucet is open. Otherwise it is off. I still installed a master cutoff switch just so that I can turn the entire box off at night and not worry about a fitting coming loose and the thing running dry all night and killing my battery.

Get a boat fan -- they're waterproof, 12V, and they put out around 200cfm. Also, they have mounting options that make it easy to connect a 4" duct to. If you use those 120mm computer fans, you'll have to make a duct and mount. Here's an example boat fan: https://www.amazon.com/Attwood-1749-4-Blower-Resistant-4-Inch/dp/B003EX02DA/

Noise makers? What the literal fuck.

HOW AM I SUPPOSED TO DOOT DOOT DOOT AT THE WINTER CLASSIC NOW?

I even bought this maritime airhorn just in case the stadium was too big to hear an individual plastic horn.

It just so happened that a lot of Eureka stuff was on sale at the time I was shopping, so I look like something of a fanboy.

• [Eureka Apex 3XT Tent] (http://www.amazon.com/Eureka-Apex-3XT-Tent-sleeps/dp/B0043HM5RC) - It's a three man tent, but I'm a big guy and I wanted extra room. Camping off the bike makes the slightly heavier weight from a 3 man tent not a big deal, it compresses down pretty small anyway. Gives me plenty of room to bring all my gear inside the tent at night, and if the wife decides to go camp with me there will be room for us both without any problem.
  
  
• [Eureka Sandstone 45F Rectangular Sleeping Bag] (http://www.amazon.com/Eureka-Sandstone-45-Degree-Rectangular-Sleeping/dp/B006MQAWS6) - Synthetic bag, one for me and one for my wife. Nothing really fancy about it other than that they are mate-able to each other we want to get extra snuggle-y on a trip.
  
  
• [Eureka Camp Pillow] (http://www.amazon.com/Eureka-2641201-Camp-Pillow/dp/B004BZX7PK) - Some people say use a stuff sack with your dirty clothes, I say I don't want to smell funky multiple day old swamp ass while I'm trying to sleep. I guess I could use clean clothes, but meh..
  
  
• [Exped SynMat Basic 7] (http://www.amazon.com/Exped-SynMat-Sleeping-Terracotta-Long/dp/B0018MC976) - Air mattress. My theory is that if you don't get at least some restful sleep, you will be miserable the next day. Packs down very small, provides comfort and insulation from the ground.
  
  
• [Sea to Summit eVent 30L Compression Dry Sack] (http://www.amazon.com/Sea-Summit-eVent-Compression-Medium/dp/B000NQQ5A0) - I have multiples of this item. I pack the tent, rainfly and groundcover all in one, and it all compresses down to around 12x6 inches. Sleeping bag goes into another, compresses down to about 12x12 inches.
  
  
• [Kwik Tek Dry Pak 70L Waterproof Duffel Bag] (http://www.amazon.com/DP-D1BK-Waterproof-Duffel-Black-Large/dp/B00644OLLU) - Cooking gear, sleeping equipment, and other stuff I don't put in the panniers goes in here, and then the bag is strapped across the pillion seat with RocStraps. If it's a two up trip, the 52L Givi comes off the back of the bike, and the 70L Dry Pak is replaced by a 110L Dry Pak so there is enough room to stash the wife's gear as well.
  
  
• [Sea to Summit DryLite Towel] (http://www.amazon.com/Sea-to-Summit-DryLite-Towel/dp/B000OPPAQK) - Small and Extra Small. Great for drying off after getting caught in the rain, or after a shower at the campsite. They dry fast too.
  
  
• [Jetboil Zip] (http://www.amazon.com/Jetboil-Zip-Cooking-System-Black/dp/B004UVPDUM) cooking system - Boils 16oz of water in about 2.5 minutes. My breakfast is instant oatmeal and instant coffee/hot chocolate, so this takes care of both very quickly. The Jetboil also makes it super easy to make things like instant mashed potatoes for dinner.
  
  
• [Trangia 27-5] (http://www.trangia.se/english/2913.trangia_stoves.html) Ultralight Aluminium Cookset with add on 2.5L pot - Alcohol stove set with frying pan, two 1L pots and one 2.5 pot. For dinner I can cook up a steak, some soup or stew, pasta/rice sides (think of stuff like [this] (http://www.bearcreekcountrykitchens.com/index.php) and [this] (http://www.knorr.com/product/category/245876/pasta-sides). I don't worry about packing and carrying an entire trip's worth of food, I stop at a grocery store, and get a couple days worth of stuff. If I want fresh meat, I swing by a store immediately before hitting the campsite. Arrive, set up, cook.
  
  
• 12oz plastic cups - I carry a couple of [these] (http://www.campmor.com/outdoor/gear/Product___60048).
  
  
• Spork - Fork, spoon, and something resembling a knife [all in one] (http://www.campmor.com/outdoor/gear/Product___87620)
  
  
• Leatherman Blast - bring a multitool, you will be glad you did.
  
  
• A headlamp and a good flashlight are critical. I like [these small Black Diamond orbit lanterns] (http://www.rei.com/product/807910/black-diamond-orbit-lantern) too.
  

I love carrying a small collapsable grappling anchor. Cup holders are always welcome. Also, this style of back rest is a nice thing to have. Anything to make the canoe more comfortable will let you stay out for longer stretches.

Same brand as the other poster, this one is a bit more. I own this one, best PFD I have had for all around. Has the high back for sitting in kayak, has nice easy to use pockets, very comfortable.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050HDACS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The plugs are different. You may need to pick up an aftermarket adapter. WARNING: if you use an aftermarket adapter you need to manually set the max amps to charge at on the car's touch screen. For example, with the linked adapter I have to set the car to charge at 24 amps, or 80% of the max amps of the receptacle.

Edit: also a handy link to receptacle types

https://www.amazon.com/Intex-Explorer-2-Person-Inflatable-Boat/dp/B000RZFBKW/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=explorer+200&qid=1562826397&s=gateway&sprefix=explorer+&sr=8-2

I was wrong shipping was only free bc I spent more than $25. This one is $5 cheaper though

The best baby carrier. I tried so many. I love the Bjorn Miracle. It comes with so much back support. If I’m really having a bad day, I’ll wear an additional back brace under my clothes. My kids always NEED TO BE HELD! NOW! This carrier made that a bit easier!

Also, diaper backpacks are a lot easier for me then crossbody bags.

A small footstool to get baby out of crib when they get bigger. Leaning over the crib was hard for me.

A stadium chair like the one below. I can sit on the floor with my kids with the back support this gives. Love it!
https://www.amazon.com/Coleman-2000020281-Stadium-Seat/dp/B003399128/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Stadium+chair&qid=1562965712&s=gateway&sr=8-3

I love this sun shelter for the outdoors. Keeps me from overheating
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014G8K6YG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And this clip on fan is awesome. The charge lasts forever. I try to make myself as comfortable as possible when we leave the house for an adventure!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F3B6X3J/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Have a question about any other items? Ask away!

LE KAPMOZ Quick Hood Loops Trunk... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GF8FSF5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share



FishYuan Sentry Ratchet Kayak and Canoe Bow and Stern Tie Downs 1/4" Grow Light Heavy Duty Adjustable Rope Hanger (2-Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XVFDM5W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_erFjDbWJCQMZH

Get something that fits correctly!!!! that is a big thing. Also get something with utility, mine has pockets and zippers all over it and it serves as a mini tackle box. like this http://smile.amazon.com/Stohlquist-Fisherman-Personal-Floatation-X-Large/dp/B0050HDACS/ref=sr_1_15?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1397315283&sr=1-15&keywords=personal+flotation+device+fishing

because I wasn't sure of the term haha.

A bus bar would be perfect. Now I just need to find a cheap one that has a cover; though I could print one if need be.

this is pretty nice for the price http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Common-Busbar/dp/B0091VHLW4/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1408979981&sr=8-7&keywords=terminal+bus+bar

These are great, and waterproof as for size, take measurements and get one a little smaller Than the width of your sac rolled up as tight as you can get it. Length shouldn't be a problem.

Aside from that, get an inexpensive down bag. I have the Kelty Cosmic Down 20. It runs anywhere from $99.00 to $160 depending on where you get it and current sales. Great bag, packs down as small as a football with a compression sack.

I highly recommend an electronic torque wrench.
The mechanical ones are very inaccurate at the bottom end of range. Head bolts are often at the bottom or below what they can even be set to.

I use this one and it works amazingly well. It can accurately go down to 3ftlb. You can set the desired torque and it has a beep alarm as you approach, reach, and go over the threshold. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004VYUKTC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I also recommend flying with a very basic set of tools. I fly with some hex keys and wrench that fits all the sizes on my paramator. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F512F74/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Siphon is nice to get fuel out of paramotor. This one works amazingly for me. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CKW15ZS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Radio chest harness. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007HJKSG8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I added a draw cord to attach my phone to. Phone then tucks into the velcro pocket and is secured by one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H4E9Z6O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It's powerful enough to draw in a medium weight phone.


Hook knife: https://superflyinc.com/products/jack-the-ripper-hook-knife


Power floats: https://glidersports.com/shop/powerfloat-2bsure/

Waste flotation: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013RLI9XS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Cut prop tape strips out of this: https://www.amazon.com/Scotchgard-Clear-Paint-Protection-60-inches/dp/B004VG8DS0/ref=sr_1_9?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1534535837&sr=1-9&keywords=3m+scotchgard


RTV silicon to put on exhaust springs to reduce vibration fatigue: https://www.amazon.com/Rutland-500%C2%B0RTV-High-Silicone-Black/dp/B000H5Y6CQ/ref=sr_1_5?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1534352404&sr=1-5&keywords=heat+resistant+silicon+rtv


Motor tachometer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GTP6ORC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Radio: I recommend the FT60 or FT65. The 60 model is tried and true and can also be modded to RX aviation band. FT65 has newer display and is cheaper having been made in China.

I’ve seen guys with big systems use these.

Attwood 1749-4 Quiet Blower Water Resistant (White, 4-Inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003EX02DA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CWYmDbCK4E8P3

>I'm fairly ignorant of electric systems on boats.


I hope you're comfortable with how basic 12VDC electrics work and are asking about how to wire them in a marine environment.


Preface, I'm not a certified marine electrician but I've done a ton of work re-wiring, custom work on all kinds of sail and power boats.


Tools:
>I do have a cheap harbor freight multi-meter

good, now you're going to need a way to crimp those shitty connectors and some dielectric grease.


Unless of course you want to solder all your connections (this is my preference as it doesn't vibrate loose or corrode as quickly), then follow NASA's soldering method s and yuu'll need some rosin cored solder and and a soldering iron, you'll also need to use a crimp connector without the pre-molded shrink wrap and some heat shrink tubing


Ok... got your tools? great, now for supplies.


You'll need a buss bar on your ground


Measure how much wire you need, (are you re-wiring the mast?) and use 14/2 AWG marine grade wire.


If you're only using 1 battery you can get away with a simple switch like this. From the devices & lights you listed It sounds like you can use 10AWG to connect your battery to your switch then to the 14 gang panel.


You'll need a way to label your wires, I use one of these but if you're doing one job you might want to use something cheaper.

Ok... now on the to the fun part


Plan where you're going to mount your panel and pull a single RED 10AWG from there to your battery shut off switch and another strand from you battery to the switch.


Pull 10 AWG from the battery to the buss bar.


pull all the 14awg from the lights to the panel labeling each 14/2 wire as you go


red goes to the fuse block, black goes to the buss bar then to the negative on the gang block, label everything at the connection points, big red wire goes from battery switch to the bolt on the 14 gang, big black wire goes to the buss bar.


install new things, as each device is hooked up test the fuse and switch, then install the new thing.

Edit: I forgot to mention, use dielectric grease on all metal fittings to reduce corrosion.


edit 1: put a fuse between your battery and shut off ont the red wire

awesome! yeah I'm going to be using that on the random hole around the machine that let smoke into the room and Weather striping on the lids to block it so that it ONLY goes through the exhaust!

any suggestions for blowers? I was looking at https://www.amazon.com/attwood-Quiet-Blower-Resistant-4-Inch/dp/B003EX02DA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1542672858&sr=8-4&keywords=4+in+blower+fan

So there's a "tow hole" under in the left front, you'll see it. It's a metal piece with a large hole and a smaller hole. I use these hooks. ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XVFDM5W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share ) . They fit perfectly in the small hole.

The back also has a small hole in the metal frame the hook fits into.


As for scratching, this is my first time trying it out. From the looks of it there was a very tiny bit of scratching but now I've adjusted it and wrapped a microfiber towel around the rope that makes contact with the front/back.

Also... get bus bars... you'll need at least 2... (NEG and POS.. duh) these make your life so much easier when you are hooking 10 things to a single ground, for example... https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Common-Busbar/dp/B0091VHLW4/

Most of my trips are more canoe based with portaging so we are still trying to go a little light. I use heavier duty 20 Liter rubber dry bags for cookware and misc gear, like my helinox chair things of this nature. Things in these bags are designed to shut up and left outside overnight. (Normally under the vestibule)

For tent gear or for anything really Get Sea to summit event stuff sacks. Spendy but worth it. After you use them, you will wonder why you werent using waterproof stuff sacks all along.

They are compression waterproof bags. They are perfect. I use mine all the time. You can search the comments in the Amazon link for how many liters each bag is. I think I have a medium and large. I use one the smaller one for all my clothes and the larger one for my sleep system. Pad, bag, pillow, tent light etc. I couldnt be happier with them. I then put those stuff bags into my larger portage bag.

For those other things you mention just use a different sized very small dry bags or ziplocks. I keep my toiletries in a ziplock then that goes into one of the dry bags. I find this system of organizing is simple. Easy to remember where everything goes, which helps you lose less things at camp and is fast to pack and unpack.

https://www.amazon.com/Sea-Summit-eVent-Compression-Medium/dp/B000NQQ5A0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499492514&sr=8-1&keywords=event+stuff+sack

Hope this helps

There is a metric shit ton of options. Something like this for an offset
https://www.amazon.com/Magpul-Industries-Light-Mount-Black/dp/B00CQ8FWCU

Viking tactics also makes a popular one. Do a search and you'll have plenty to choose from. 1" is the standard so virtually all mounts should work as long as they attach to a pict

Doesn't seem all that innovative to me, to be honest. I mean, Stadium Seats have been around forever, and are a fraction of the cost.

Buy hey, good luck on your Kickstarter.

Here's the one I got from Amazon. I bought it (and the grappling hook) for the costume, and I've been using it every single day (turns out I love huge impractical bags, but not purses, so this keeps me from hauling my whole life with me everywhere).

I'm giving you US links just to let you know what I'm talking about but you shouldn't have any trouble finding them elsewhere.

• Dry Bags - Very handy to have along and it wouldn't hurt to have more than one. I keep one stocked and ready to go at all times.
  
• Onyx PFD - PFD that wears like a belt and stays out of the way until you need it.
  
• Waterproof Phone Pouch - Cheap and handy
  
• First Aid Kit - I keep one in my dry bags but have never had to use it. You never know though.
  
• Survival Whistle - Because you never know.
  
• Cooler - If it's a long outing I like to have a soft cooler that I can strap down.
  
• Headlamp - Just another one of those you never know items that takes up hardly any space in a dry bag. Alternatively you could get a bunch of those cheap LED bracelets.
  
• Water Bottle - I swear the Gatorade squeeze bottle is the best water bottle ever made. I always have one with me when I'm paddling.

Seems like you're looking for something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Magpul-Industries-Light-Mount-Black/dp/B00CQ8FWCU

Its just one click away on Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/Seattle-Sports-Sherpak-Boat-Roller/dp/B009PAAI5I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1449468256&sr=8-2&keywords=Kayak+loader


Buy one of these

Yes, that would work.

Although... if you want something higher quality, check out Sea to Summit brand

• https://www.amazon.com/Sea-Summit-eVent-Compression-Medium/dp/B000NQQ5A0
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Sea-Summit-Ultra-Sil-Compression-Sacks/dp/B00HS3AUW0
  
  Medium or large of those will work, and be perfect for backpacking

Found a way to read in the pool/bath! $2.82

I'm planning on buying these : https://www.amazon.com/GCI-Outdoor-SitBacker-Adjustable-Support/dp/B0018S0R38/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=canoe+seat+backer&qid=1555533334&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spell

Oh, I'm so jealous! I haven't been backpacking in forever! It's such an amazing experience, though. I hope you have fun.

I have a whole WL for camping gear, but this is the cheapest item: waterproof pouch. Our family has a "no electronics" rule when we go camping, so we can focus on nature and each other. But this would be handy for an emergency cell phone, as well as matches, important papers, etc.

http://www.amazon.com/Carlisle-Magic-Plus-Kayak-Paddle/dp/B001AI69KQ/ref=sr_1_4?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1427333608&sr=1-4&keywords=kayak+paddle

That's the paddle I have and it's awesome. $67.

http://www.amazon.com/Stohlquist-Fisherman-Personal-Floatation-X-Large/dp/B0050HDACS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1427333486&sr=8-2&keywords=fishing+pfd

I bought my father in law and brother in law stohlquist kayaking pfds and they are solid. They look great and are extremely high quality. I know the fisherman pfd is expensive, but you get what you pay for.

You may not be able to use this exact make and model, but this loading technique is effective. And really, you can duplicate it on whatever rack you have by removing the crossbar's end cap and using a piece of rebar steel (assuming you use a rack with exposed crossbar ends). This would be the cheapest option.

If you don't have exposed crossbar ends, then another thing you can do to load a kayak onto a normal car like yours, is to use a kayak cart as a "roller" by turning it upside down and placing it on the trunk or back windsheld of your car (depending on the shape of your cart and contours of your particular car). Video demo here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6wnzk1VOJa0

If you're not able to do that for some reason, or don't need to own a kayak cart, they sell something that accomplishes the same thing:

https://www.amazon.com/Seattle-Sports-Sherpak-Boat-Roller/dp/B009PAAI5I/ref=pd_bxgy_468_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B009PAAI5I&pd_rd_r=XZY5YQA7AXZTVQKZH3VE&pd_rd_w=zCMiP&pd_rd_wg=k1tUj&psc=1&refRID=XZY5YQA7AXZTVQKZH3VE

Hope that helps.

http://www.amazon.com/Falcon-Safety-Push-Button-Horn/dp/B0001ZVQZM/

My suggestion would be to get a magpul (~$30ish) mount and put an Armytek in it. (Probably a partner, about 35-40ish). Eventually cheaper lights crap out on recoil, even for light recoiling guns like an AR. Try the magpul mount, as I know it works with heavy use. Alternatively, streamlight makes a mount and light combo on amazon for $60 but I can't attest to how well it works.

Ideally if you're going to buy something like this for hard use it might be worthwhile to just wait a little and save up for like a stream light protac with a more solid mount like an IWC Thorntail.

Link to magpul mount:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CQ8FWCU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494794559&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=magpul+flashlight+mount&dpPl=1&dpID=51Fc8FYJOiL&ref=plSrch

Link to armytek:
https://www.armytek.com/products/flashlights/hunting-and-military/armytek-partner-a2/


Link to Streamlight combo:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HRD8UN2/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1494794559&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=magpul+flashlight+mount&dpPl=1&dpID=41jDluHG7FL&ref=plSrch

Link to Streamlight Protac:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01AXR8JGG/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1494794984&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=streamlight%2Bprotac&dpPl=1&dpID=419HR0uzY5L&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1

Link to IWC mount(s):
http://www.impactweaponscomponents.com/product/thorntail-scout-by-iwc-haley-strategic-partners/

clinometer

Removed the radio and capped it with abs plastic, fit it with a usb charger and [four of these switches in different colors] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GH1PU0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) using these housings

the switches got to [relays] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017VDI0GY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) that are powered [by this fuse box] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QMTAZ1W/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) that is mounted to the top of the OEM fuse box under the hood.

Those power my OBHS and OBA. Other two switches not in use yet, hoping for rock lights/light bar some day maybe?

Removed the old fog light switch panel, replaced with abs plastic and volume control that goes to an amp that goes to a stereo jack that i just plug into my phone for music.

If you get impatient... Amazon has one I linked for someone else before... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00STD8CXC/

​

If you go this route make sure to appropriately lower the amperage in the car!

Damn they stopped selling those again? I expected that and bought my adapter as soon they were available. You would need the 24A charging at the minimum. I guess one option would be to buy these after having the 14-30 outlet installed.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00STD8CXC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481868608&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=14-30+to+14-50&dpPl=1&dpID=418lLMVgGPL&ref=plSrch

You have to make sure you manually set your car to charge at 24A because it would think it is charging with the higher adapter.

Another option would be to install the wall connector.

You would be able to get a federal tax credit for installing a car charging outlet, so that should help with some of the costs.

First, my needs:

1. Power 1/2 LED monitors at ~30W each
   
2. Occasionally charge laptop
   
3. LED lighting
   
4. 2 Maxxair fans
   
   
   Second, the components:
   
   Panels/controller https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B8L6EFA
   
   Battery https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ACKDGPS
   
   Y connectors https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4ELRSH
   
   Cable entry https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CSEXW2S
   
   2 Gauge wire https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KD2756W
   
   Terminal rings https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005V9UWB2
   
   Crimp tool https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003X51S00
   
   Terminal block https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000S5Q2VS
   
   Busbars https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0091VHLW4
   
   Inverter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004MDXS0U
   
   Vent vans https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002OW5JIU
   
   Monitors https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/PB278Q/
   
   Puck lights https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ODSAR12
   
   Strip lights https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IQOV13G
   
   Fuse box https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P6FTHC
   
   Killswitch https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DUUL9W
   
   Switches https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XFJW1SB
   
   Dimmer https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L8KP16E
   
   
   I know my needs are fairly minimal. I see opportunity to grow with this system if I ever need to. I’m excited to lay it out with the actual parts soon and begin thinking about it in the real world.
   
   Any suggestions, info or questions are completely welcome. I know little about electrical, only what I’ve learned from reddit and youtube. Thanks pals and again /u/StolidSentinel for the help and replies to all my messages and questions!

>https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009PAAI5I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KL3jDbVD31R0P

I have been trying for years

I have the same method of loading except I use a boat roller instead of a mat. They have suction cups for attaching to my vehicle.

Seattle Sports Sherpak Suction Boat Roller Load Assist for Mounting Kayaks and Canoes to Car Tops, One Size, Silver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009PAAI5I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KL3jDbVD31R0P

That looks like about $80 for parts, excluding wiring, connectors, speakers, and enclosure. Here's my take on it:

Ditch the lead-acid battery. Your portable stereo will not be very portable with that 5 pound monster. Additionally it is not made for deep cycle use. Instead I wold recommend this or something along the same lines. Or even build your own from raw cells.

If you can avoid having to run any 110v into the unit, you'll save a bunch of weight and complexity. The power pack I linked to comes with its own external charger. You can get something like this if you want USB power.

I have a Mossberg 590A1 (18" barrel / bead sight) with...

• Magpul Stock and Forend
  
  
• HiViz Fiber Optic Sight
  
  
• Magpul L2 MOE Rail Section
  
  
• Magpul Rail Light Mount (Left)
  
  Loaded with Federal Tactical Law Enforcement 8-pellet 00 buckshot. I'm very happy with it.
  
  Don't forget to practice frequently with whatever you end up choosing.

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Amazon Smile Link: http://smile.amazon.com/Stohlquist-Fisherman-Personal-Floatation-X-Large/dp/B0050HDACS/ref=sr_1_15


|Country|Link|Charity Links|
|:-----------|:------------|:------------|
|USA|smile.amazon.com|EFF|




To help donate money to charity, please have a look at this thread.

This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.

I'm saying 834 thanks for the [contest] (http://www.amazon.com/SODIAL-TM-Waterproof-Multiple-Purpose/dp/B008S3W6H6/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=2178B1GL21EVM&coliid=I3J3F2CWX69V10)

I can haz cheezburger ?

waterproof bags!

Yeah, you can get yourself a kickin' raft with an onboard computer system, and still have plenty money left over for a lot of grub and water inside little packets

Check this out. Comfortable and straps to the bench.

They make 12v tvs with built in dvd players. They're a bit cheaply made but they cost less than the inverter.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Naxa-19-LED-TV-DVD-Media-Player-12V-AC-DC-w-Car-Package-Car-Truck-Camper/182500581988/

These are nice and charge fast. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BV1MTAA

And should work fine for your Switch. If the price is a bit much, there are these, which will charge slower:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0082CXEI8

There are these: https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Volt-Socket/dp/B004XIWF12

Which will allow you to plug in a 12v fan.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Zone-Tech-12V-Oscillating-Fan-Includes-clamp-and-Screws-for-Easy-Attachment-to-either-the-Console-or-Dash/188629593

If it were me I'd replace all your bulbs with LED bulbs, I get mine here: https://www.superbrightleds.com/

That'll greatly reduce your current draw.

I have this solar panel: https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Monocrystalline-Solar-Compact-Design/dp/B07GF5JY35 and this solar controller: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075NQQRPD

For a small system that solar controller can handle both the charging and monitoring the battery. It's also got bluetooth so you can monitor it over time, if you're a big nerd like I am.

I just designed and built the electrical system in my boat so this is all fresh in my mind.

Anything you add, be sure it's properly fused to protect the wire running to the device and that you're using the right size wire. This is the best place I've found to get wire and supplies for that: http://www.genuinedealz.com/

Hope all that helps.

whoa! i didn't even know they made small ones! i was thinking something like this!

http://www.amazon.com/Intex-Explorer-2-Person-Inflatable-Boat/dp/B000RZFBKW

I just got this yesterday to tow behind my kayak with a cooler and some gear. I haven't taken it out of the box yet, but people have used it for this in the reviews with no problems. So fingers crossed, I'm taking it overnighting this weekend on the Chattahoochee south of Atlanta.

1.

Which wires specifically? In general, I was planning on going for heat-shrink solder terminal connectors and crimp connectors.

One of the reasons I posted this is because there are quite a few connectors and I am still not entirely 100% sure what I need. Obviously when screwing something in to a screw terminal block, the ring crimp connectors. But when joining wires, I would prefer to use the heat-shrink-solder type, but there are also butts and blades (heh).

I bought this set of terminals, figured I'd need them anyways: Assorted crimp terminals

I am probably going to buy this set of solder terminals: Fancy solder terminals

I am pretty good at soldering (though usually circuit boards, not automotive wires, hence not entirely knowing what to do.) I have easy access to a heat gun as well.

2.

Well, both - the breaker goes on the battery, and it sets the maximum amperage for the entire new fuse block and everything attached to it. The fuses go for each individual circuit. I want to use just one fuse for each circuit, instead of having several different circuits sitting on the same fuse, largely for my own desire for neatness and debug-ability. I could have one main fuse instead of the main breaker, but I figure that they will serve the same function and I may as well go for the re-usable option.

I was going to go for this breaker: Fat breaker

That said, I bought this fuse kit, which includes up to a 35A fuse, which will be more than enough. I also bought this fuse holder, in case I decide to use one main fuse instead of one main breaker. (I figured I'd need both of these anyways for some project, may as well get them even if I don't use them right now.)

Fuse Kit

In-line Fuse Holder

---

In general, I think my system will basically look like this:

Battery 12V + Breaker = safe 12V

Save 12V + ignition 12V (do I need a fuse here?) + Relay = ignition-switched 12V

Ignition-hot 12V + Fuse Block + ATC/ATO Fuses = eight fused circuits

Fused circuits, obviously, feeding from above. I will probably add a 20A switch in line with high-power circuits, just in case, as an emergency switch.

Fused circuits will terminate at something like this Ground Bar.

 

What do you think of this proposed setup?

I do realize that it's kind of overkill for what I want.

But you can probably agree that overkill is better than your car burning down!

I don't think I have the original one but I used it in one of these and it worked great. I'll include it if u want. I think it's a medium size, but I know it fits great with this bag.

Sea to Summit eVent Compression Dry Sack,Medium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NQQ5A0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-Ei.Bb3JPGYNC

I use my canoe chair in my kayak. So if you have a canoe or find yourself in a canoe often you could try this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018S0R38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9fF6Bb3H6WT2Y

It’s not an elegant solution but it works.

Sounds like you have A/C, which puts the 12V at your shin. I have a stereo with USB but it's 1.2a which barely keeps my phone charged. I'm going to install a stand alone 2.1A USB panel. If you're hady with wiring, you can pretty much put a panel anywhere. You could even convert one of the vents into a panel by closing it off. Have a console? You can put it in there.

I had the same problem with the viscosity. I am using this [pump] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WYMC492?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share) along with "push connect" fittings and have been fairly happy.

Will do. https://www.amazon.com/BEP-701-Battery-Switches-On-Off/dp/B005DUUL9W/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1521649402&sr=8-7&keywords=battery+cutoff

And yeah, the idea is to not kill myself. This is my first large project, although I have messed with low voltage stuff in the form of robotics for years.

This sub has been very helpful. I mean except for the shitter who keeps on hoping I die, thats not very helpful.

Try and find if there is a parasitic draw:

http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a5859/how-to-stop-car-battery-drains/

If you don't want to find the cause of the drain just put in a battery disconnect switch. You could run it all the way to the cabin of the car so you don't need to open/close the hood every time you start the car and turn it off.

For under the hood: http://www.harborfreight.com/battery-disconnect-switch-97853.html

For mounting in car (you'll need to run two wires from battery to this switch): http://www.amazon.com/Marinco-701-Battery-Disconnect-Switch/dp/B005DUUL9W/ref=sr_1_8?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1452027739&sr=1-8&keywords=remote+battery+disconnect


Super fancy remote controlled one; http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Prog-Brain-T3-Protector/dp/B000P4H9W8/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1452027739&sr=1-1&keywords=remote+battery+disconnect

https://www.amazon.com/M-16-Belt-Pack/dp/B013RLI9XS/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=onyx+m16&qid=1554639820&s=gateway&sr=8-1

It might even be worth it to just install a 12v socket, so you won't have to worry about possibly damaging the board of the CA-709

[this] (http://www.amazon.com/SODIAL-TM-Waterproof-Multiple-Purpose/dp/B008S3W6H6/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=30YFVWIMCXHWS&coliid=I1DHPNFFCQ1XTF). I take the kids to the beach a lot in the summer so this would be handy for my kindle and phone.

I've just replaced one of these as it broke while on a trip. Very quickly the waterproof cap fell lease snapped and was lost while driving. The fuse lease snapped too but I managed to keep hold of it. One night out in the rain without the cap and its broken already :/

I have just ordered one of these instead : http://www.amazon.co.uk/Blue-Sea-Charger-Socket-Watertight/dp/B0082CXEI8/

I'd just put the biggest marine deep cycle battery I can fit as my starting battery, (probably group 31) and get a $100 lithium jump pack in case I ran it down.

Or

You can build your own goal zero type portable battery setup for$200-400. The Yeti 400 is a 33ah 12v AGM deep cycle battery with 300w sine wave inverter and a 12v plug in. It also has features like low battery alarm, displays power usage, and comes with an AC charger. You won't save much $ making it smaller/less powerful, but it will weigh less if you'd like to use a smaller than 33ah battery.

$50-150 for an AGM deep cycle 12v battery, 33ah

$75-150 for a 300w pure sine wave inveter, you can save more money if you don't need pure sine wave or 300w, or don't mind an always on fan

$25-50 for a 12v trickle charger to charge the battery up at home, if you don't have a charger already

$15 for a male to male 12v adapter to charge it from your car, or use your jumper cables.

$10-20 for a 12v socket or two, or a USB charger socket

$10-50 for a battery case to hold the battery and mount the inverter and sockets on

$30 on misc parts like voltage display, wire, and fuses

I have J bars and a set of these ratcheting cords to secure them.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XVFDM5W?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WYMC492

​

Got it as deal for like $12

​

got this running for 2 years now. Works perfect.

Ended up ordering this guy and towed it around for about half an hour today. There's a noticeable difference but it didn't kill me. I think for shorter distances it'll work.

Price History

I use a boat roller like this (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009PAAI5I/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 , Seattle Sports Sherpak Boat Roller) to help me load my kayak onto my cartop racks from the rear of the vehicle.

You can replace it with a universal from any auto parts store and a couple spade terminals. If you wanna keep the harness with the car, just cut it further back and tape it in there so it's not gone forever. A little JB KwikWeld on the backside will have it looking like factory.

You can use those coolers, but you have to run a dedicated circuit with heavier (12 gauge, preferably) wiring and an in-line fuse. Also doesn't hurt to replace the plug on the appliance. I like sticking to marine-grade stuff for high-draw applications.

You could try it out with the more budget friendly albeit heavier version