(Part 2) Best body repair & restoration chemicals according to redditors

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We found 416 Reddit comments discussing the best body repair & restoration chemicals. We ranked the 145 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.

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Subcategories:

Body repair & restoration adhesives

Top Reddit comments about Body Repair & Restoration Chemicals:

u/54338042094230895435 · 11 pointsr/Kayaking

That is a sweet score, the divorce boat wouldn't be added to my collection but that Necky is a nice find.

Yes, you can repair it reasonably easy and cheap. Get some Marine-Tex and start patching.

Otherwise find a local that does fiberglass repair, couple hundred bucks and it will be good as new.

u/slickrickslc · 8 pointsr/WranglerTJ

Wow that sucks my man

Its just fiberglass. You could have it done by any auto or boat repair place, or just get yourself a little glass mat, resin and hardner, and patch it up yourself. Its surprisingly easy. link for material

Prep is everything with fiberglass, sand and clean the area with acetone or tackcloth. Follow the directions on the fiberglass application. Have some acetone on hand to clean up anything before the resin sets. Touch it up with a little paint after it cures.

Might not turn out beautiful but it'll do the job and be a great intro to fiberglass!

u/MyPasswordIsNotTacos · 5 pointsr/AskEngineers

WILD guess here, but I always assumed they were glued on using the same stuff that holds rear view mirrors to windshields.

EDIT: this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-37438-Rearview-Mirror-Adhesive/dp/B000VNAIQ2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478665833&sr=8-1&keywords=mirror+glue

u/visidage · 5 pointsr/saab

Focuslima on eBay has great quality emblems that you stick over top of your original badges. I got 2 for my 9-3 last week and they went on really easily and have a great look to them. Look for the ones that say 3d, 3d gel, 3d domed, etc. Roughly 1 week ship time to me in the middle of the US.

Edit: Didn't read the full thing, my bad. But if you do find an emblem in the junkyard then I've used 3M Plastic Emblem and Trim Adhesive when I had to stick the an emblem back onto my wheels.

u/torqen_ze_bolt · 5 pointsr/DIY

have you tried UV glue? I use industrial grade UV glues to bond various metals to PCs, Glass, arcylic, etc. Maybe try this from amazon and see if it works.

https://www.amazon.com/RapidFix-UV-Plastic-Adhesive-6121805/dp/B00QSA77NE

u/redwoodser · 3 pointsr/DIY

I would not change how the crack has settled, or has become. The overlaying of the material will in fact make the area and your repair stronger, than if you were to even up the edges and then repair it. Removing material and then evening up the split, would allow for increased pressure on the split/repair area, should force ever be applied again, imho. So long as repairing it with a bead or 2 of this product is not terrible unsightly, you're good.



I recommend something like this (and whatever you do, don’t end up using silicone. Please. lol)


“Stress caused by shock, vibration, swelling or shrinking is
effectively absorbed. fiberglass deck to fiberglass hull, wood to fiberglass, portholes and deck fittings... above and below water line.”


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AY6DG/ref=twister_B01D893FTW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

u/RagnvaldrGunnbjarga · 3 pointsr/PrintedMinis

I believe /u/mz4250 uses this stuff: XTC-3D High Performance 3D Print Coating, 6.4 Oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BKSLI9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zxRKBb53F53YE

I found it while looking through his album on how he made his King Hakaton mini, and got myself a bottle of it, but haven't had a chance to try it yet

u/OregonReloader · 3 pointsr/guns

are you gonna bed that action?

http://www.amazon.com/Devcon-10110-Plastic-Steel-Bottle/dp/B00065TMTO

just ordered some to do mine.

u/ryder1911 · 3 pointsr/teslamotors

Sorry, I’m just speaking are a general fix to most problems.
But J-B weld has leather repair patches for quick fix to prevent the rear from getting larger before the shop can fix it.
J-B Weld 2130 Vinyl and Leather Repair Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IU3G3NG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_b6GrDbYHTAMJC

u/siltstridr · 3 pointsr/ender3

Sweet! Stl file?
Nevermind I found it. I have no suggestions I’m terms of printing, but can I suggest post processing with sanding and coating with a finish, for example:
(XTC-3D High Performance 3D Print... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BKSLI9M?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share)

u/Wandering-hippo · 3 pointsr/Wrangler

3M 420 Fiberglass Resin & Repair Kit, .45 Pint https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BO9NOO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PPEpzbAY2B9K5

u/Mr_Torque · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

Buy this stuff. Follow the instructions and the inside of your tank will be better then new.

http://www.amazon.com/Caswell-Epoxy-Tank-Sealer-Motorcycle/dp/B001PLM5TC

u/FPVWilly · 2 pointsr/Quadcopter

I rock the E010 frame and really dig it. it is a little heavier but the bits that connect the fan duct to the motor mount are much larger and stronger. The Rakon I've seen but never used. The problem with that frame is that the metal will bend over time but people seem to really like it. Some CA glue can fix broken frames like a charm as well. I use it on the stock frame and it is able to reconnect completely separated motor mounts with great strength.

u/Rad10Ka0s · 2 pointsr/Fixxit

First, get a spray bottle of dish soap and water. Spray the rim down and confirm (again) where it is leaking.

Then dismount the tire, or at least break the bead and use this. https://www.amazon.com/Group%C2%AE-14-101-XTRA-Seal-Sealer/dp/B000GKD722

u/Boolit_Tooth_Tony · 2 pointsr/CZFirearms

Even if it's not, sounds like a good opportunity to do it yourself. I haven't done one in years, but Devcon used to be the go-to for bedding - It may still be. Don't forget the Kiwi.

u/BimmerBey · 2 pointsr/Motorrad

My bike had been sitting for 6 years prior to my ownership, and the tank had completely rusted out near the fuel pick up. The way I cleaned it was duct tape over the holes and then dump a bunch of small nails in the tank and some acetone, and really shake that baby up. Dump the nasty acetone out, and then repeat till clean. Then I got a shop vac and vacuumed all the remaining garbage. After that I got this and it worked like a champ.

This of course was for a more extreme case, but no ugly putty on the outside of your tank to worry about. If you don't care just scotch brite the surface and maybe a little acetone or isopropanol to clean it up, then putty.

u/BauTek_MN · 2 pointsr/cars

That first crack is just beginning, the end caps become really brittle from years of heat cycling and the o-rings that seal them aren't much better.

$50-80 will get you a new radiator (check rockauto.com) and it's not a bad idea to do both hoses and the thermostat if it's easily accessible. Skill wise it's one of the easier repairs you can perform on the average automobile.

If this is more of a "I need to drive this for another week then it's scrap" situation, buy a fiberglass repair kit from your local auto/hardware store (eg. https://www.amazon.com/3M-420-Fiberglass-Resin-Repair/dp/B000BO9NOO/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=fiberglass+repair+kit&qid=1558469553&s=gateway&sr=8-5), use a razor to make some cross-hatched gouges that cover the crack and a couple inches past, clean thoroughly with some alcohol then apply two layers of resin+mat according to the product's instructions. Let that cure overnight and it should bond nicely with the hatched areas and keep it going until the next crack appears.

u/liisrandom · 2 pointsr/balisong

Any form of threadlocker is going to be your only option. Balisongs are always being exposed to vibrations and impacts so it needs something to hold the screws in place. If you don't want to use traditional blue 242or blue 243 loctite, you can always try using paracord loctite, teflon plumber's tape, or if you want a more permanent solution, vibratite vc3

u/ThaneofJudgement · 2 pointsr/StandingDesk

Yea it sure was stressful trying to make the right choice. I have pages and pages of notebook paper with option/cost comparisons, review notes, my own thoughts etc. It looked like a crazy person trying to shop or something lol.

Read the instructions and watch/follow the installation video on their site. The video was a lot more helpful than the instruction manual. Setup is pretty easy but be sure to listen when they say how to tighten your bolts. A lot of them you will start the thread on 4 screws then tighten them down in a rotating cross-pattern like you would do with car lug nuts or when tuning a drum head. Make sure when you do tighten the screws they are snug.

Per the recommendation of some, I also used a Blue Medium strength Oil tolerant
Non-Permanent thread locker on all the machine bolts. I used Vibra-tite 122 since it was the cheapest of the 3 big brands. Looks like it out of stock on Amazon but Loctite and Permatex both make a version as well. Loctite is #243 found here. I got the Oil and material insensitive types because the bolts do come with a slight oil and I was unsure of the exact metal makeup. I let the desk sit for about 4 hours after I finished building to let the threadlocker cure some. The full cure time is 24hrs. The result is an extremely stable desk while sitting and standing alike. Even trying to push on it at 43inch height and it is hard to get it rocking. Definitely doesn't even come close to messing with your work.

O I understand the space issue. 72in is really my max and it fits just perfect in my office. There is a clearance 48in maple laminate top still available that will save you ~$50 or so.

No problem at all and I'm happy to answer any questions you have. I know how hard it is to find some good info on these things and it is a huge investment. Hope you enjoy the desk. I know I sure am! :D

u/Garwoodwould · 2 pointsr/Fishing

It's actually a good question. A big ray or shark can spool you pretty good. Yes, sloppy knots can get hung up in your guides. Trim it closely and coat with clear nail polish or something like Knot Sense, Pliobond, Zap a Gap... to streamline the edges. It will go through.

u/churchillsucks · 2 pointsr/surfing

I emailed the guys at Catchsurf for tips before I applied it. They said to clean the wax off by blowdrying it. I also cleaned the area with a little turpentine before applying.

the guys at Catchsurf also recommended 3M 5200 Marine Adhesive but I also got some Loctite clear silicone gel waterproof sealant when I couldn't find the 3M at Ace hardware. So I used a combination of both. The 3M I put all over and the Loctite I put on the perimeter of the pads. On the left and center pad, I put two perimeter layers on the pad (since the loctite squeezes out in one long bead), and then smeared a bunch of 3m in the middle. The right pad I fucked up on because it was the first one I applied, and I only did one perimeter layer and the bead didn't connect with itself. I was also too lazy to take the fins out of the board, so I didn't put any weight on the board to hold down the kick, which kept popping up.

This time around, I'm putting a couple 5 lb weights on the kick.

u/Ryfter · 1 pointr/SWlegion

The filler primer I use... a few minutes. It dries really fast. Filler primer doesn't work magic, though. It just helps.

XTC3D may be another way to go.

u/houndazs · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Qbond, you'll thank me later.

Q-Bond QB2 Repair Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HX704NG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VViSzb1NN06Q8

u/warbunnies · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

well ive also found this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UJ1EF4/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

might be good. i like that i can machine it. i could also use clay but id rather not have to deal with clay if i can help it.

u/imeuru · 1 pointr/alaska

It's pretty common stuff, you can probably get it at a hardware store, especially in Alaska.

Amazon link

u/mattbeau80 · 1 pointr/Surface

maybe try some pliobond to see if it will help keep it down. it dries flexible like rubber.

u/krakissi · 1 pointr/CherokeeXJ

My manifold has a nice crack right in the crotch where the two banks meet. I gooped it up with ThermoSteel a year ago and it's still fine.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UJ1EF4/

u/dinzmo · 1 pointr/canoeing

Of course but you'll need to find it first - what material is the canoe made from?

Something like this usually works:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0014419V0/ref=mp_s_a_1_6

u/ColeSloth · 1 pointr/airguns

I tried 6 different scopes (including Gamos included junker) and 3 brands that were supposed to be air rifle rated. Including 2 utg bug blaster scopes. None would keep 0 but my current scope.

Here's the winner along with this scope ring.

I also peeled the tape off the rings because I've had issues with them moving around. Instead I used a very thin layer on my rings of this stuff which has held fantastic and left me not having to worry about over tightening my rings.

In over 400 shots I've barely had to re center at all and I can shoot 5 dimes in a row at 25 yards using a rest.

My Gamo is a 1300 fps piston rifle .177
I shoot H&N 9.57gr hunter extreme pellets. Found they're most accurate for my rifle so far.

u/cubedjjm · 1 pointr/rccars

Have you tried thread locker? Locktite 222 purple is a good "won't go anywhere". Blue 243 is "won't go anywhere without force". Red 263 is "the screw will NOT come out without heat or EXTREAM force. Do not use Red on small screws. Blue is what I use regularly, and haven't ever had any problems in the 20 years of use. Each bottle will last you years if you use occasionally(aren't in manufacturing). I've never used a whole bottle before losing it.

Check out their own website if you want, and message if you have any questions. Have a good one.

u/Godzilla_in_PA · 1 pointr/fixit

You might want to try this UV activated glue.

u/DrShaggford · 1 pointr/blacksmithing

I think I found what I'm looking for. Just in case anyone else has the same question here is a link to what I found. https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Magic-8024-ThermoSteel-High-Temp/dp/B002UJ1EF4

u/lanmanager · 1 pointr/AutoDIY

3M. Do NOT use super glue!!!

This tape will work too. Also available in 1/2 inch. Follow the instructions to the letter.

u/skip2malu · 1 pointr/Ducati

agreeing with everything /u/Alfa_Alesi said, but just my suggestion to help the situation you're currently in;

  1. remove the tank from the bike, drain and dry the inside of the it thoroughly (im talking hot air blowing through it for about 24 hours type of dry)

  2. clean the inside with a dry lint free or micro-fiber cloth and remove all internal components

  3. order you up some caswell tank sealant and follow the directions on that bad boy

  4. do your best to search for non-ethanol gas stations in your area and stick with those.

    it really depends on where you are, some places in the USA have next to none in a 500 mile radius, and some places have 'em on every corner. where i live here they're really sparse, so i keep a few of the 5 gallon cans in my garage and just top off my bike every time i go for a ride.

    Here's a site that helps. but if you can't find non-ethanol close by, the fuel treatment stuff is your next best choice. i haven't used any myself yet, so i can't entirely recommend a particular product for ya. i just stick with non-ethanol stations exclusively.

    oh and for long term storage, (say maybe over the winter) keeping the tank completely full will help prevent that spotting, and fuel stabilizer helps the gas from going rotten.

    hope this all helps
u/blkandblu · 1 pointr/Golf_R

I haven't tried it before but it seems like a leather repair kit like this one might be worth a try (if you re-add the perforations with a toothpick after applying the patch). I'm skeptical how well it would hold up though, and I'm sure it would be noticable.

u/nosheet · 1 pointr/cars

I use welder's cement for most plasic and foam parts on rc airplanes, or any thing that's plastic that I need to glue. It normally makes a joint thats stronger than the material around it, but remain flexible unlike cyanoacrylate which is brittle after curing. Welders also does not turn yellow as it ages. I have not had any problems with it failing when heated. The adhesive on the back of most peel and stick velco will break down in a hot car during the summer.

https://www.amazon.com/Homax-730657-Professional-Welder-Adhesive/dp/B005UJNH7E

u/nickels55 · 1 pointr/hottub

You can buy/borrow a snake camera like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073ZFC59R
Maybe that will help you determine where that pipe goes? Otherwise there are PVC leak kits that are better than flex seal:
https://www.amazon.com/3M-05206-Marine-Adhesive-Sealant/dp/B0000AY6DG/
Good luck!

u/UseTheWind · 1 pointr/sailing

I just bought some of this: https://www.amazon.com/Marine-Tex-Epoxy-Putty-White-Ounce/dp/B0014419V0/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1498250219&sr=8-18&keywords=fiberglass+epoxy
Havn't tried it yet myself but has good reviews (this really for fiberglass damage tho)

u/ChrisWalley · 1 pointr/buildapc

Honestly superglue is probably the best option, unless you can get some sort of powder filler like this https://www.amazon.com/Q-Bond-QB2-Repair-Kit/dp/B00HX704NG

u/uselessaccount129 · 1 pointr/motorcycles

I've gotten worse to seal on a car tire. I'm not saying you should try but the only real thing that part of the tire does is seal the bead to the rim. The steel bands in the bead are the structural part of the tire.

We used the stuff below to seal damaged beads, and had pretty good success.

Xtra Seal Bead Sealer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GKD722/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gDpWCbGA5B3M9

u/sir_froggy · 1 pointr/balisong

NOOO BUBBA, DON'T SUPER GLUE THEM. SERIOUSLY!!!

Loctite 243 is your friend. There is a half size bottle but it's only $7 cheaper so not even half price. 243 is good for most loctite purposes so just buy the big one and use it forever.

u/distantlistener · 1 pointr/Cartalk

If you can't find inexpensive panels from a local u-pull-r-parts type of salvage yard, you can DIY patch those panels with a 3M fiberglass repair kit. Prep for repair and paint will be much easier with a power sander, but you can do with hand sanding.

Feather in paint with a rattle-can, and I think you can make it look decent and save the bulk of the money for mechanical stuff.

(Source: I have treated my older car like this -- decent cosmetics to save time and money for mechanical stuff.)

u/remembertosmilebot · 0 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

Xtra seal

---

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

u/cymicro · 0 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

JB Weld might work, but I think you'd be better off with plastic steel putty. Definitely more expensive than JB Weld, but it does better with plastics. Whatever you do, make sure to rough up the surfaces that come in contact with the glue with some coarse sandpaper before application. The problem with gluing most plastic parts is that glues don't like to stick to them very well.

If you can, I'd definitely recommend putting a bolt down into the center of the joint (one that you can hand-tighten into the free piece should do the trick). You can clip the head off of the bolt and then just screw it down into the hole with a little of the putty around the edges.

Finally, perhaps now is the time to go get a plastic welder. Tack the pieces together with a soldering iron, make sure you have the right rod, and go to town (after you've practiced getting a good bead). That will be stronger than pretty much any glue you can get, and usually ends up stronger than the original part.

u/scum-and-villainy · -1 pointsr/Cartalk

What do people think about

this adhesive - loctite

or this one - goop

edit, how is this getting the little red cross lol

u/wintyfresh · -10 pointsr/Cartalk

I wouldn't hold my breath, but since the motor's likely toast anyways you can gamble $20 on a long shot.

I popped the head gasket on my toyota pickup and didn't want to devote the time and money to repairing it, so I used this and (with full disclosure about the motor's condition) it held up long enough for the buyer to not only test drive it but also drive it 100+ miles home.