Best breakers, load centers & fuses according to redditors

We found 416 Reddit comments discussing the best breakers, load centers & fuses. We ranked the 245 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Subcategories:

Circuit breaker panels
Breaker, load center & fuse accessories

Top Reddit comments about Breakers, Load Centers & Fuses:

u/Iamnotacookiemonster · 13 pointsr/homelab

Found a similar one on Amazon US: Leviton 47605-28W Series 280M Structured Media Center with Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002472KK

u/Tippytom · 12 pointsr/fixit

I would pick up a resttable fuse

u/OrangeCurtain · 9 pointsr/Homebrewing

Should be possible if you can DIY the electrics or know someone who can...

u/aanderson81 · 7 pointsr/teslamotors

Get something like this for the subpanel
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PM927KK/

They make a larger one for the main load center as well. For $500 I expect you can do your main service box and all subs

u/BigSHug825 · 6 pointsr/tech

It's pretty easy to add a usb charging port with this and this.

u/A_H0RRIBLE_PERSON · 6 pointsr/electricians
u/storunner13 · 6 pointsr/Homebrewing

In lieu of replacing your breaker, you can buy and wire a spa panel for a GFCI.

https://www.amazon.com/Square-Schneider-Electric-HOME250SPA-Homeline/dp/B000BQT1AS

Put this as a part of your extension cord build to make things easier for you.

I wouldn't necessarily recommend building your own cord, just don't spring for the cheap cords.

u/aestes89 · 5 pointsr/phoenix

I understand not everyone is mechanically inclined, but I hate to see people paying for a dashcam install. They're one of the simplest installs you can do on a car! Even if you've never wired anything in your life, it's pretty simple! If you really hate the cigarette adapter and want to hide your wires, all you need is about $8 on amazon, or at autozone, oreillys, anywhere for an "adapt a fuse".
You just need to connect the positive from the dashcam to this baby and pop it in the fuse panel (almost always located in the car). Connect the negative to just about anything metal in the car and it's grounded.
Like others have said, be sure you bought a dashcam with a capacitor and not a battery. The heat out here will ruin the battery, fast. The capacitors have a little easier of a time.
Good luck!



https://www.amazon.com/Uriveusa-Circuit-Adapter-Holder-Upgraded/dp/B01LFXA5YQ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=car+fuse+adapter&qid=1564186478&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzQzgxMlkwMU9DNjhKJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzA1NDIxQk9FVTQ1TkszUkI0JmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAwMjMyMjgzOEQ1RjdSNTdRSVhKJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

u/random12356622 · 5 pointsr/Dashcam

Apeman = Lipo battery = lasts 1 or 2 summers, then dead.

---

Budget dash cams:

  • ROAV C1 ($73 USD) - I do not like this cam.

  • ROAV AK-848061055931 ($90-100 USD) - I do not like this cam.

  • AUKEY ($70 USD) - I do not like this cam.

    Best value:

  • B1W ($47-55 USD) - Has wifi/cellphone app, Good video, Fair build quality, Lackluster parking mode: Automatic, Not buffered, Requires hardwire kit with low voltage cut off feature to enable parking mode. - No GPS

  • A119 v2 ($79-105 USD) - Excellent video quality, Fair build quality, Lackluster parking mode: Automatic, Not buffered, Requires hardwire kit with low voltage cut off feature to enable parking mode. No wifi/cellphone app. Lacks Cloud feature. - Has GPS

  • A119S v2 ($90-119 USD) - Good video quality, Fair build quality, Lackluster parking mode: Automatic, Not buffered, Requires hardwire kit with low voltage cut off feature to enable parking mode. No wifi/cellphone app. - This dash cam was supposed to surpass the A119 v2 in video quality. It never did. Firmware updates were supposed to make it better video quality. Only surpasses A119 v2 in Extremely dark conditions, lesser video quality in all other conditions. Lacks Cloud feature. - Has GPS

  • A119 Pro ($90-124 USD) - Good video quality, Fair build quality, Lackluster parking mode: Automatic, Not buffered, Requires hardwire kit with low voltage cut off feature to enable parking mode. No wifi/cellphone app. - This dash cam is supposed to surpass the A119 v2 in video quality. Waiting on firmware updates. Same hope as A119S v2. Lacks Cloud feature. - Has GPS

  • Street Guardian SGGCX2 (Includes memory card and CPL filter) ($160-290 USD) - Good video quality, Good build quality, Lackluster parking mode: Automatic, Not buffered, Requires hardwire kit with low voltage cut off feature to enable parking mode. No wifi/cellphone app. - This dash cam is similar to the A119 variants in video quality. Lacks Cloud feature. - Has GPS


    Versatile: Mobius ($70-100 USD) (Requires separate purchase: Power cable or hardwire kit + Micro SD card + adhesive Mount) + recommended purchase Super capacitor - Good video quality, Fair build quality, Lackluster parking mode: Automatic, Not buffered, Requires hardwire kit with low voltage cut off feature to enable parking mode. No wifi/cellphone app. - This isn't the best dash cam in the world, but it is one of the smaller ones. It was made for the drone world, and repurposed for the dash cam world. Lacks Cloud feature. - No GPS - Lacks G sensor (because it is part of the drone world)

    Budget Dual Cams:

  • Aukey DR02D ($130 USD) - I do not like this cam.

  • Mini 0906 ($130 USD) - I would avoid this dash cam. ??? I have no idea GPS

  • A129 ($160 USD) - Good video quality, Fair build quality, Lackluster parking mode: Automatic, Not buffered, Requires hardwire kit with low voltage cut off feature to enable parking mode. Has wifi/cellphone app. - This is a 2 Channel (Front/Rear) or (Front/interior) dashcam similar to the A119 variants. It is new, and people like it. Lacks Cloud feature. - Has GPS

  • Thinkware FA200 2CH WiFi ($170-190 USD) - Haven't reviewed it yet.

  • BlackVue DR590W 2CH WiFi ($240-260 USD) - Haven't reviewed it yet.

  • BlackSys CH-100B 2CH ($200-270 USD) - Excellent build quality, Excellent parking mode, Good/Fair video quality. Has wifi/cellphone app. Good/Fair video quality is a far step down from Excellent A119 v2 video quality, you should compare sample footage. This dash cam's strong point is it is simply a good dash cam, user friendly wifi/cellphone app. Lacks Cloud feature. Has partitioned normal/Parking recording. - Has GPS

  • BlackVue DR650S 2CH ($298-370 USD) - Excellent build quality, Excellent parking mode, Good/Fair video quality. Has wifi/cellphone app. People complain about this dash cam's video quality. It is similar to the CH-100B 2CH but for some reason people have higher than average expectations for video quality from this one. First of the Cloud feature dash cams. Lacks partitioned normal/Parking recording. - Has GPS


    Last year's Flagship Dual Cams:

  • BlackVue DR750S 2CH ($380-510 USD) - Excellent build quality, Excellent parking mode, Good video quality. Has wifi/cellphone app. Has Cloud feature. Has partitioned normal/Parking recording. - Improved video quality over the BlackVue DR650S 2CH, added partitioned normal/parking recording. - Has GPS

  • Thinkware F800 Pro 2CH ($380-460 USD) - Excellent build quality, Excellent parking mode, Good video quality. Has wifi/cellphone app. Has Cloud feature. Has partitioned normal/Parking recording. - The 2nd of the Thinkware Cloud dash cams. - Has GPS


    This year's Flagship Dual Cams:

  • BlackSys Ch-200 2CH ($300-320 USD) - Excellent build quality, Excellent parking mode, Good video quality. Has wifi/cellphone app. Lacks Cloud feature. Has partitioned normal/Parking recording. - Similar to the BlackSys CH-100B 2CH, with improved video quality. - Has GPS

  • Street Guardian SG9663DC (Includes memory card and CPL filter) ($290-490 USD) - Similar to the A129 2CH dash cam, missing wifi/cellphone app. - Has GPS

  • BlackVue DR900S 2CH (4K) ($480-591 USD) - Excellent build quality, Excellent parking mode, Excellent video quality. Has wifi/cellphone app. Has Cloud feature. Has partitioned normal/Parking recording. - One of the few dash cams that is similar/surpasses the A119 v2. - Has GPS

  • Thinkware Q800PRO 2K QHD ($400-490 USD)

    Taxi/Uber Cam:

  • Transcend DP520 ($170-300 USD)

  • Vantrue N2 Pro ($200 USD) - Has Battery, big negative for warmer climates.

  • Thinkware FA200 IRC 2CH WiFi ($200-260 USD)

  • BlackVue DR590W IR 2CH WiFi ($280-300 USD)

  • Blackvue DR650S-2CH-IR ($320-540 USD)

  • BlackVue DR750S-2CH IR ($400-560 USD)

  • BlackVue DR900S 2CH IR ($510-650 USD)

    Suggested Hardwire kits:

  • Cheap hardwire kit ($5-15 USD)

  • In between hardwire kits ($15 USD)

  • Expensive Hardwire kit ($24-27 USD)

    Things that make hardwiring easier:

  • Add A Fuse/Tap a fuse ($1-10 USD) Mini, Mini Low profile,

  • All Fuses, and Tap a fuses should match your vehicle: (5Amp) Fuse 2nd slot. Most vehicles have Mini, and Mini Low profile. At any automotive store. ($1-5 USD)
u/ariven · 4 pointsr/Dashcam

using something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Shipping-CIRCUIT-BLADE-PROFILE-FUSETAP/dp/B00K17A2E6

Allows you to tap into an existing fuse slot fairly easily, its pretty much unplug a fuse, plug it and two fuses in.. then you can wire to the existing wire and a metal to the frame point under the dash.

I have done this with my car since my cigarette lighters are always on.

I used it to wire one of these in: http://www.amazon.com/uxcell%C2%AE-Charger-Cigarette-Lighter-Female/dp/B00EZJBELQ

And I just plugged my cam into that.

Well, I have a splitter on that now and my cam and gps are on it.. but same thing..

u/deepobedience · 4 pointsr/AskElectronics

I don't know what other people think, but obviously you're not an electronics guru (neither am I!). I get pretty careful when it comes to things I'm plugging into the mains. If you were just measuring power consumption of a single chip, it would be different. So I'd be tempted to buy a plug in power meter (something like this ) and then figure out where it puts it's output into whatever drives its LCD display. Then read that into the arduino.

However, in the future, something like this may be the ticket:
http://www.cirrus.com/en/products/cs5463.html

Also check out this if you want to try and make something yourself.

u/drtonmeister · 3 pointsr/electricians

The bay area is reputed to have steel conduit or metal-clad cable for much historic multifamily housing stock, but I'm sure you can find non-updated 1910 - 1930s stuff with knob and tube if you are unlucky. In some cases the conduit is an effective ground, but I'd be inclined to use GFCI anyway on pre-mid-60's housing.

With an pigtail tester you can check if a 2-prong receptacle is in a grounded box. If it is, then using a correctly installed cheater plug is effectively the same as using a 3-prong outlet installed in that spot and grounded to the box.

When I was in an apartment with 2-prong outlets, outlet boxes that were not connected to ground, and a landlord unwilling to have GFCI outlets swapped in, my strategy was to buy a bunch of cheap "single-mode" surge-strips (the sort that provide "line to neutral" protection only); chop off the plugs, and replace the plugs with 2-prong ALCI plugs

This way I had right-angle plugs that were secure in the old 2-prong outlets, GFCI-protected 3-prong outlets to plug 3-prong plugs into, and Type 3 surge diverters appropriate for circuits with only hot and neutral.

u/optionsexplored · 3 pointsr/vandwellers

A simple electrical usage meter is super handy when checking for power usage and they are cheap. This way you can test real world usage vs just the rated amps or watts which is usually at the max.

For example, if it is rated for 100 watts you aren't running that sewing machine at full the whole time. The motor may also require more at surge than continuous. So you can measure the amount it takes to say make a quilt from end to end or your use on a typical day.

Knowing this can save you a bunch of $ vs over spending on solar or batteries. They are well worth the investment, just get one that will store the info when unplugged or power is out.

u/Anon_0365Admin · 3 pointsr/homelab

Something like this?

Poniie PN2000 Plug-in Kilowatt Electricity Usage Monitor Electrical Power Consumption Watt Meter Tester w/ Extension Cord https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0777H8MS8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.vlxDbWXF53FM

u/mbischof14 · 3 pointsr/Dashcam

Thank you so much for your reply! This is exactly the type of response I was looking for! The size was a worry to me, but I felt it was a bit over exaggerated since it was often compared to the A118C which just has a sleeker look on the window. I think you confirmed that for me. As far as the reviews I was referring to: There were several on amazon that said they received a free device in order to review it, and they all had 5 stars which made me suspicious of an inflated review. Also some of the reviews would mention the driver assistance prompts like they were great, even though I have received the overwhelming opinion that it sucks (but I can just turn it off). This just made me suspicious as well.

I think I am leaning more towards the Yi dash cam, since it seems to offer more features and be a little better quality image. Although a bit more obvious, I think you proved it is still quite small. I think I will just risk it on the battery issue and call it a lesson learned if it screws me over. It rarely exceeds 100F where I live.

Anything else you think I should know before purchasing the Yi? I will probably purchase with the link in the original post text if that matters.

Also, since you seem quite knowledgeable about it, I also had a question about hard wiring to my fuse box (since I only have one cigarette lighter.) If you don't know the answer to this, it is fine I just figured I would try. I plan on buying this and this to hard wire it. Would this be acceptable and all I would need? Also is there another way to wire it without going through the fuse box, because then I won't be able to put the cover back on the fuse box (small issue but still) that also does not involve the cigarette lighter. Again, if this is not your specialty, it is fine.

Again, thank you so much for your detailed reply. It really helped me make my decision!

u/PJsAreComfy · 3 pointsr/Aquariums

Does your energy consumption increase account for all of that larger bill or did the cost of electricity and/or its delivery go up too?

There could be other factors as well. I'm not saying tanks don't have a cost to run but something simple like increased heating or cooling, longer showers or more laundry, degrading seals on windows or doors, less efficient fridge, other electronics - they could also play a part in the household using more energy.

If you want to confirm the true cost of your tanks you could measure them with an electricity meter like this.

u/U5efull · 3 pointsr/linux

While this is commendable, how much power are you using? I would think that would be the big issue if you did this for a long time. If you're not sure how to measure, you can get something like the KiloWatt to determine. Once I did this sort of thing and figured that out, I decided to build a Ryzen box.

https://www.amazon.com/Poniie-PN2000-Electricity-Electrical-Consumption/dp/B0777H8MS8/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1540739544&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=kilowatt+meters&psc=1

u/ckeeler11 · 3 pointsr/CarAV

Most people will find a switched wire at the fuse panel using a fuse tap.

u/hearnrumors · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

Use a multimeter, and figure out which of your fuses are only activated when the key is on.

Then use a fuse tapper("add-a-circuit kit") in place of it.

Done. Nice an easy, no splicing or anything.

u/WhipTheLlama · 3 pointsr/Autos

I've got the old version of that camera and it's very good. Importantly for me, it's small enough to fit behind my rear view mirror and has a really nice small mounting bracket with tape rather than a huge suction cup that will fall off every other week.

My power outlet is inconveniently placed, so I used add a circuit to hard wire it into my fuse box.

u/robot65536 · 3 pointsr/SolarDIY

There was a post not too long ago by someone who killed his lithiums because even though his inverter was on a switch, his raspberry pi or something was not and that drained it during a cloudy week. So don't forget undervoltage protection on that DC fuse block!

Edit: Also, I would take some of those savings and get better-quality fire-prevention devices. I don't trust safety devices with 26% one-star reviews.

Better options:
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Circuit-Breakers/dp/B007P5UNNW/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=200+amp+circuit+breaker+dc&qid=1573679773&sr=8-2
https://www.amazon.com/Tocas-Circuit-Switchable-Waterproof-Flush-Mount/dp/B06Y4172LP/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=200+amp+circuit+breaker+dc&qid=1573679773&sr=8-3

u/Tangent_ · 3 pointsr/BMW

How I did the wiring on mine:

Install the angel eyes themselves per instructions. Run the wiring so everything leads to the relay being mounted in the bin at the right rear of the engine bay. Early models have the DSC/ABS module there, later models have just an empty bin.

Use the following image of the relay as a guide to where you lead the wires. The Pinout will be the most useful part.

http://i.imgur.com/Yrm9vxU.jpg

30 - Angel eye positive wire

87A - To footwell light

87 - To positive battery terminal

85 - Trigger wire

86 - Ground

Most instructions have you running the trigger wire to the DME and here's where I differ. In the bin where you mount the relay you'll see a grommet with a rubber plug on the firewall side. Carefully cut a little "+" into that and feed the trigger wire and the one that goes to the footwell light through there. (See link at the bottom for a picture showing it)

Inside the car you're now going to work in/under/behind the glove compartment. With a flashlight look for where those wires you poked through the grommet came in and pull them through. Tap the footwell wire into the positive lead to a footwell light. The other one will share a connection with a circuit in the fuse panel. You want to use a slot that is on only when the ignition is in the "on" position, and is off when it's in "accessory" or "off". You can use a multimeter or a test light to confirm this. There should be several options. Now you need an "add-a-circuit" adapter like the link below. Use that to connect to the trigger lead. Be sure to use the fuse with the same rating as the one the angel eye wiring harness came with.

http://www.amazon.com/Littelfuse-FHA200BP-ATO-Add-A-Circuit-Kit/dp/B0002BGELQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427662052&sr=8-1&keywords=car+add+on+fuse

The link below is to a great step-by-step that I modified, so use it for the pictures and most individual steps, just on its Step 4, run the trigger to the fuse panel instead of the ECU accessory wire. These instructions also don't include step-by-step for running the other wire to the footwell light for the fade-on when you unlock and fade-off when you lock your car. It does show the grommet you'll be slicing to get the wires to the cabin though.

http://www.fastm.com/m3/angeleyes_orionv2.html

u/VertexAudio · 3 pointsr/Audi

Ya, it's fairly easy. Use a company like Sonicelectronix.com, who have the best prices and often include free accessories for the install like wiring harnesses dash kits and antenna adapters.

The two things you will need to be aware of is that you will need the "keys" to get the radio out. They don't tend to come with the gear but you can usually take your car to your local shop and they will have keys and remove it for a few bucks. The next thing, to get an accessory wire, you must run a fusetap over to the fuse box on the driver side and tap into something that turns on and off with the car, like wipers.

u/kimchee411 · 3 pointsr/cars

The module plugs into the antenna jack on the PCM. The plug types are different so that's where the adapters come in. There is a stick on button to turn it on and off and control calls and audio track. You tune the radio to a specific station and hold the button to turn on the module and go into BT mode. Hold the button to turn it off if you want to listen to the radio.

Here is a good DIY guide. Pretty easy, even for a dunce like me. If you don't want to splice the power to your PCM harness, you can get a fuse doubler to plug into the fuse box in the driver's side footwell. For the mic, I just wedged it in the corner of the dome light frame piece and ran the cable along the headliner and around the passenger side, behind the glove box, and into the rear of the center console. You can tuck the wire into the passenger door rubber molding with a plastic card so it's hidden and tight.

/r/porsche thread

u/mdrsharp · 3 pointsr/synthesizers

If you're worried about a lightning strike or a power surge get a Siemans surge suppressor breaker for your electrical panel, this is what they are

They're $85 and they protect your whole home. They are not difficult to install, there's plenty of videos on YouTube or ask a friend who's handy or a family member.

My house has power delivered by overhead wires and I'm worried that a lightning strike down the road could fry my gear so I added one of these breakers to my panel. Also, my parent's house was affected by an indirect lightning strike and many of their appliances, Central Vacuum, furnace, garage door openers and TV were killed. They didn't have a serge surge protection.

u/worldmir · 3 pointsr/LandCruisers

Here is the list of all the stuff i got:

  1. 1/0 welding wire - 50 ft (used ~44ft) from https://weldingsupply.com/cgi-bin/einstein.pl?Next::1:UNDEF:OR:terms::PA2
  2. Swedge on tool for crimping the lugs on the wire from https://weldingsupply.com/cgi-bin/einstein.pl?PNUM::1:UNDEF6657706:OR:04040
  3. 1 OT coppers lugs - 10 pc from http://www.connectorsupply.com/catalog/copper-lug-ot-38-stud-tin-plated-p-197.html
  4. Clamps - 6pc from http://www.connectorsupply.com/catalog/rubber-coated-clamp-34-inch-p-643.html
  5. Wire loom - 20 ft from http://www.connectorsupply.com/catalog/wire-loom-black-nylon-12-inch-p-240.html
  6. Heatshrink - 1 black from http://www.connectorsupply.com/catalog/3m-shrink-tube-black-34-inch-p-216.html
  7. Heatshrink - 2 red from http://www.connectorsupply.com/catalog/3m-shrink-tube-red-34-inch-p-223.html
  8. Cord grips - 3/4" trade size mcmaster.com part number 69915K56
  9. Longer j-hooks for the house (2nd battery), the ones that came with slee were a bit short for my batter - mcmaster.com part number 98760A111
  10. Mil spec battery terminal - 2 pc Positive - mcmaster.com part number 7738K1
  11. Mil spec battery terminal - 1 pc Negative - mcmaster.com part number 7738K2
  12. Blue seas ML ACR 7622
  13. Blue seas circuit breaker - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007P5UNNW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    I think thats pretty much it, i will edit anything else if remember it.

    This all could be done in one day and you dont need a garage to do it.
    Good luck!
u/Fbho420 · 2 pointsr/Autoflowers

36x20x62 and qb 240 v2 with red

Getting one per driver, this is to help control the dim
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P8M7N9F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GRGlDb10RKKAZ

This one the ups will plug into for the total grow draw. From the reviews it works best for monthly totals
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0777H8MS8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OSGlDbH2XY0Y1

Here is the humidity control. Has setting for humidity and dehumidify. I used it for mushroom tents and works well
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076LMFRHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yUGlDbJWPZYC1

u/Teknik987 · 2 pointsr/CarAV

The knivio bluetooth is a good call, ive had mine for almost a year now which works perfectly and have done exactly what you want to do. What i used was an Add a circuit and then wired a new cig socket to the add a circuit i bought form autozone. Now it will auto connect and turn on only when the key is switched to acc position when connected to the right fuse, typically rap, ign, with that specific size fuse. Also i just hid the extra socket under the dash. Also if you do end up getting a noticeable noise/interference which i highly doubt use this ground loop isolator.

u/Jim-Jones · 2 pointsr/electricians

They have something similar in the US and Canada.

Not sure how much they're used.

u/a-rode · 2 pointsr/XVcrosstrek

A quick overview of the install of my ThinkWare F750 and Hardwired kit in the Crosstrek.


http://imgur.com/a/Eo2bm


Camera (bought at BestBuy price matched Amazon):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VA5S9PW/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_aztlxbR4ZTV0S


Hardwire Kit (Bought at BestBuy):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NC062E8/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_aAtlxbWWAME40


I used a Fuse Vampire Tap so that I had flexible options for power. In addition I did not wire to a constant constant 12v system since I don't want to use the parking feature. If you want to use this, but two fuse taps. Mine came from Blain's, you can get them on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I0MWPXU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_lJtlxb74S99ZS


Use this video to learn how to remove the A Pillar:
https://youtube.com/watch?v=qt-hhesUlSI



  1. Remove the A Pillar and fuse box cover.


  2. Mount the camera where you want it, I chose this location because from the driver seat i cannot see it, but it's easy to access the buttons. In reality I should have gone a bit higher on the dots to hide it a bit, but I'll get some non douchey vinyl to cover up the sticky pad. With this camera I used the wifi app to view the image and be sure it was where I wanted it.


  3. Now plug the power into the camera and start running it. I have the dimming mirror and by sliding the wire cover towards the front of the car it opened up and I ran the cable up that.

  4. As you go just tuck the wire up into the seam at the headliner. I wore nitrile gloves to try and keep from smudging my window. It takes a bit of pressure, but the wire just sort of pops in and stays.


  5. When you get to the corner you need to give it something to hang on. This kit came with sticky wire clips and I put one up there, you can see in two of the pictures.


  6. As you run it down the A Pillar keep it from interfering with the airbag, I tucked it behind the wore that I assume is for the mirror.


  7. At the bottom of the pillar I pushed a wire fish up from the fuse box (coat hanger) and hooked the wire then pulled it through to the fuse panel area. At the corner I used another Sticky wire clip to hold it in place. You can see this in a picture.


  8. At the fuse box I used the Fuse Tap off the Audio/Nav fuse since its switched power. If you want to use parking mode add a second fuse tap to a constant power fuse and connect that to the appropriate wire. Pop out the original fuse, push the tap in place and put fuses in the spaces, the ones linked above have a fuse for the stock power feed and a separate one for the tap wire.


  9. For the ground wire I used a 10mm socket to loosen the bolt behind the hold release and hooked the ground wire to this.


  10. I then bundled the spare cable (2-3 feet maybe) and tucked it to the left of the fuse panel.

  11. Turn the key on and make sure it works.


  12. Reassemble the A Pillar, I found that putting the pillar in place first, and the tweeter cover second which made every thing line up properly.


  13. Connect to the camera and set as you see fit. I turned the volume off, and Lane warning/car in front warnings off.

u/macguhloo · 2 pointsr/admincraft

You can get a watt meter like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Electricity-Analyzer-Monitoring-Equipment/dp/B07M8JKLG5/ and use it along with your electric bill to figure out how much of the charge is for the server.

u/sucknofleep · 2 pointsr/buildapc

check your motherboard manual, usually the b slots (2 and 4) are preferred for dual kits, although this shouldn't be the issue.

best way to check powerdraw is to get a meter like this one:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Energenie-429-856UK-Power-Meter/dp/B003ELLGDC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1524946894&sr=8-4&keywords=watt+meter

u/collegefurtrader · 2 pointsr/Skookum

I think this type of circuit tracer will work on the wire:

https://www.amazon.com/Amprobe-BT-120-Circuit-Breaker-Tracer/dp/B005G7SC0M

has anyone tried using it that way?

u/nosmokingbandit · 2 pointsr/theydidthemath

There are too many external factors to consider. Insulation value of your home probably makes the most difference and we really can't measure that.

​

You can easily found out for yourself with one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Electricity-Analyzer-Monitoring-Equipment/dp/B07M8JKLG5/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=power+meter&qid=1556896508&s=gateway&sr=8-1

u/Andy_Glib · 2 pointsr/ringdoorbell
  1. Yes, it will work, and is more than enough power. Look around a bit, they make some that are contained and plug directly in to an outlet. Might help position it better.


    I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075CTPZW6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_04LQAb367PJ8W

    That one's 40VA, but 1000mA is more than enough power.

    Worked with my Ring 2 before I switched to Nest.

  2. Don't know if you need a resistor. I had a chime installed.
u/avidiax · 2 pointsr/Dashcam

Cigartte lighter socket + quality car phone charger + Add-a-circuit kit (check your fuse type) + some quality tape + Right-angle USB charging cable

You wire the red wire on the cigarette adapter to an add-a-ciruit (i.e. with a crimp tool). The black wire goes to ground (i.e. tucked under some bolt someplace, or a ring terminal ). You put the charger in the now-attached cigarette adapter in the fuse area under your driver's side dash. Then you need to route an appropriate USB cable (i.e. with one with a right-angle head or right-angle adapter on the dash cam side) to the under dash area (usually by tucking it under the headliner over the windshield, and then by popping the A-pillar cover off and the side panel of the dashboard, and feeding the cable through). Once you have all the wires under the dash, you just need to hook them up, test them, and then tape them together so they can't come loose.

The advantage of going this route is that you 'own' all the pieces. If any part of the formula isn't working out, you can change just that part. You also get a spare USB-C charging port for free since that adapter has both A and C.

u/brp · 2 pointsr/Audi

I have had the 9500ix for 4+ years now and it's been working pretty well. It's saved me from at least 4-5 tickets. As /u/13489194 stated below though, there are newer models out there that work better and are worth a few extra bucks. What I've noticed in the past few years is a very annoying increase in false positives with all the new cars that have side radar blind spot detection.

I mounted mine up on the top of the windshield a few inches below the headliner and to the right of the rearview mirror. It doesn't obstruct my view, and only prevents the passenger sunshade from fully opening a bit.

What you want to do is get a hardwire cable, a tap-a-fuse, and a trim tool and just gently pull on the trim and use the plastic trim tool (aka bone tool) to push the wire in behind the trim, down the A-pillar, and then into the fuse box. Not sure about the S6, but on my A5, it made it easier getting it down the A pillar to remove the "Airbag" plastic cover piece that covers up a Torx screw, and slightly unscrew the cover over the pillar so you can more easily fish it in.

Hardwire that bad boy into a fuse that is only on when the car's ignition is on, such as the Homelink Garage door opening or something. I dunno about the S6, but on my A5 there are fuse panels on both the passenger and driver's side. I put mine on the driver's side so that I can mount the little mute button assembly w/ the included velcro right below the headlight switch assembly. I can easily and quickly mute it as well as see the flashing light while driving.

Some stuff I'd recommend:

Escort Max 360 Detector

Hardwire adapter unit (no need for the bluetooth one as the Max has bluetooth built into it now)

Tape a fuse

Trim tools to fish the wire in

Other common tools you'll need would be a screwdriver, Wire Crimper/Stripper, and a socket to punch down the ground connection in the fuse panel.

Also, you'll want to be running the Waze application when driving as it will notify you of police locations reported by users. That's saved me a lot, especially when they aren't using radar or are using laser.

u/shadowbanningsucks · 2 pointsr/preppers

Something like this might be useful in determining how much power you need. Perhaps buy a mini-fridge that will use less electricity and transfer your food there in case of an outage.

Another idea is to freeze water bottles and water filled soda bottles to act as ice to help keep food cold in case of an outage.

u/Philmatic84 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

That guy is just trying to upsell you. Switches are designed exactly for that scenario, three switches are not too many. I have six and I have NEVER had an issue.

However, I would say that it is infinitely easier and cheaper to run lines before the drywall goes up. Run lines and ports to places you MAY think you want a port. In your case, I would put one on each end of each bedroom, two in the living room, and two in the lower level, then put the central wiring in your master closet. That's where it typically goes so you can hide the wiring in something like this and it will looks nice and tidy.

That's 10 ports, which may seem like a lot, but nothing is forcing you to connect them all at once. An 8 Port Switch like this one is extremely cheap and will keep everything nice and tidy.

u/twentypastfourPM · 2 pointsr/Jeep

Easy way:

Get one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Littelfuse-FHA200BP-ATO-Add-A-Circuit-Kit/dp/B0002BGELQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1347317089&sr=8-4&keywords=mini+fuse+add+a+circuit

Plug it into a circuit that comes on with ACC, being sure not to overload the fuses.

Run wires through the firewall. Attach red to red, black to Battery Neg.


Right way:

Use ACC/RUN signal to trigger fused relay. Output of relay runs radio.

u/joevsyou · 2 pointsr/personalfinance

finally pulled the trigger, it been a long time since i wanted one. The only thing that kept me from doing it was that i wanted it hardwire not freaking wires going to my cig lighter port. Well after spending 5 minutes on youtube it's not really hard at all... So i went out to my car to see what would to be done and doubt it will take me no more than 10 minutes to set up.

Just in case anyone want to know what i ordered for their selves

SpyTec A119 + GPS Logger 1440p Car Dash Camera

Spy Tec Dash Camera Vehicle Hard Wire Kit

fuse tap

Lexar High-Performance microSDHC 633x 32GB

u/raggedherr · 2 pointsr/GooglePixel

I don't like mine being taken up either. I used a female cig lighter adapter and a fuse tap. So, this means I didn't have to cut up the BT adapter and have a non-destructive way to get 12v to the BT adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006TIRZA/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BGELQ

u/idiocy_foreach · 2 pointsr/Dashcam

I just installed this exact thing in my car (well, sort of, I got the version with a full size female USB port instead of the mini male port so I wouldn't be constrained to that one cable)

Anyway! That is not an inline fuse. That is the 12v to 5v step down, and you definitely need a fuse on top of that.

Here's everything I bought (note that you will need the fuse tap that fits your car)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I3P6QQG

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K17A2E6

And with that and a 6 inch mini USB cable I had lying around, my G1WC is hard wired to my car!


One more note: all these EDO adapters are miswired. They put garbage on the data lines of USB, so your camera thinks it's connected to a PC. A trimmed piece of tape covering the center pins on the USB cable (there are four pins, 1 2 3 4, you need to cover 2 3) fixes that problem elegantly.

u/weaver2109 · 2 pointsr/Cartalk

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I0MWPXU

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C3DQRY0

These are the products I used to wire in my dash cam. So far I've had no issues with either. Also, I did a write up on installing one in my Elantra, but it should be about the same general steps for wiring up one in the Aveo as well:
http://imgur.com/a/MSLpz

Hope it helps!

Also, I installed the fuse tap where the fuse for the 12V accessory (cigarette lighter) goes, that way the camera doesn't stay on when my car is off.

u/embo500 · 2 pointsr/f150

If you get one, also get the TAP adapter, and the Hardwire kit. They're pretty cheap.

Using this, I ran the hardwire kit up behind the rear view mirror, behind the headliner, down the plastic on the A pillar, and back behind the kickpanel and into the fuse box with the TAP adapter. I can't remember which fuse I used without looking but it's wired into one where the camera automatically comes on whenever the accessory is active or the truck is running. When I turn off the truck, the camera turns off, automatically. I don't have to do anything except clear off the saved videos once every 6 months or so.

u/OvertConcept · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

The wattage meter just tells me how many watts I’m pulling I still adjust via the dimmer. So no, it’s not necessary at all just takes some of the guess work out of it.

This is what I have. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07DPJ3RGB?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

u/Frajer · 2 pointsr/AskReddit
u/joshua70448 · 2 pointsr/personalfinance

I haven't gotten any rear cams yet, but I've got this cam up front in both cars (buy it directly from Spy Tec, it's also on Amazon but you might get a counterfeit), I'd recommend a capacitor cam in hot climates (a battery will deteriorate in the heat, the capacitor gives it just enough power to save the video when shutting down). I've got it mounted to the rear view mirror so it's less visible and won't fall off, and I've got it hardwired into my fuse box (tuck the wire up under the headliner along the top of the windshield, run it down the pillar, and use an add-a-fuse like this to connect it to a switched (only on when the car is on) fuse like a cigarette lighter).

u/the_holy_downvote · 1 pointr/personalfinance

For wiring, I recommend using a fuse tap.

When I installed mine, I used this fuse tap, tapped into the windshield wipers circuit, fused with a 5A fuse. I took the power cable included with my camera, cut the lighter outlet adapter off, crimped and heatshrinked the hot wire to the tap. Then added a ring terminal to the ground, and grounded to a bolt near the fusebox that went through the body. Power cable is pushed under and hidden by the passenger-side kicker, A-pillar, and headliner trim.

If you do this, make sure your camera can take 12V in, and that you tap into a non-critical and switched-ignition circuit. Don't tap into things like the fuel pump, radio, or lighting. I like using the wiper circuit for taps because it's almost guaranteed to be switched-ignition, factory fuse has plenty of overhead for a little camera, it's not an immediate safety issue if the fuse blows, and I use the windshield washer often enough to know if the fuse has blown.

Camera is completely hidden behind the rearview mirror - you will not notice it from the inside or outside unless you're specifically looking for it. Also worth mentioning why you want to use switched-ignition. Battery drain is not really significant (car battery will run a dashcam for weeks if not months). The flash memory in SD cards (any flash memory for that matter) wears out over time - constant recording will wear out the card extremely quickly. I replace my SD card annually for this reason.

u/Imaelectrician · 1 pointr/askanelectrician

Run 50 amps to preferably a spa pack. Tubs that run on 120v are usually garbage and 27/32 hot tubs I've done required a 240v 50 amp breaker

u/medic8388 · 1 pointr/DIY

You can find tools like this Circuit tracer at most home/hardware stores. Using something like that will probably be the easiest way for you.

u/semidemiquaver · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

What brand is your panel?

Siemens makes a surge protector/circuit breaker combo that replaces two breakers, so it takes up no space in your panel. Other panels may have similar options.

u/cosmicosmo4 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

If your network is pretty small and you want to take flush to the next level, put your wall-mount patch panel, switch, router, and modem all inside a structured wiring cabinet

u/crozuk · 1 pointr/Bitcoin

What every one has said about profitability is correct - but personally I've only ever mined bitcoins for a bit of fun. Its a good learning exercise - and if your interested in Bitcoin its a good way to learn more about it.

Bottom line is with your setup, its never going to be profitable - so I wouldn't worry too much about the maths - it will only depress you!

To answer your Q's though -

  1. Wattage - something like this http://www.amazon.co.uk/Energenie-ENER007-Power-Meter/dp/B003ELLGDC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395162471&sr=8-1&keywords=watt+meter

  2. Google is your friend.

  3. Check your electricity bill.
u/moordrums · 1 pointr/Jeep

So something like this? And then just strip the end of the wire for the dash cam and connect it to that?

u/seeking101 · 1 pointr/ecobee

im using this to power the ecobee

the way this works is there are two posts each sending 12v. One leg (yellow) is connected to the rC and the other leg (blue) is connected to the C for a total of 24v.

I want to know if i can just splice the two 12v legs into one and get 24v for the C.

the rC getting 12v seems to be tricking the furnace into thinking it needs to pump heat.

I have a 2 zone, 2 taco system that ecobee tells me to use a fast-stat along with the transformer to "add a common" but I dont need to add a common...i have a free wire already, so im trying to utilize it (if possible)

u/aedocw · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

You could go with a single-pid version of this for pretty cheap: http://www.instructables.com/id/Electric-Brewery-Control-Panel-on-the-Cheap/

As others have said, you'll want to be sure you're venting all that moisture out of your basement. And a GFCI breaker on that 240v circuit is pretty sensible (you can use a spa box if you've already got the circuit pulled to where you will brew, something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Square-Schneider-Electric-HOME250SPA-Homeline/dp/B000BQT1AS)

Last thing worth considering is a pump (I'm partial to the Chugger) to recirculate your water while coming up to temp. The less expensive option is just to stir the water frequently while heating - moving that fluid around makes a big difference in keeping it all at the same temp.

Good luck, keep us posted on your choices and how it comes out!

u/FrontPageIsShiteHere · 1 pointr/britishproblems

Kettles use a lot of electricity, but for a very short amount of time (unless you fill the kettle right up every time like an insane person).

At my day rate electricity of about £0.21 per kWh, it would cost about £0.63 if I left the kettle boiling constantly for an hour. It generally takes about 2 minutes to boil the kettle with enough water for two cups (minimum fill), so the cost of the kettle works out at between £0.01 and £0.02 per cup depending on whether I make one for just myself or use the extra water to make someone else a brew.

It's misleading to only look at how much power something consumes without paying attention to how long it's actually on for.

If you want more insight into how much electricity a specific appliance actually uses, these are alright. Set the time, set your electricity rate (it supports differential tarrifs [economy 7, 10, etc] too), then plug it in for a couple of hours/days/whatever and it'll tell you how much power it's used, how much it's cost so far.

It also shows some other stuff that most people probably won't find useful like how much current the appliance is drawing, voltage, frequency, and power factor.

u/PokeyHokie · 1 pointr/mazda

I don't know what the grommet looks like through the firewall, but if there's room, you may try using a piece of safety wire or similar and pushing it through next to the wire loom, then make a loop on the end and pull your wire back through. That's what I've done in the past for similar applications.

For the fuse and ground, I know that many people have used Add-A-Circuit kits for this sort of thing. They sell them on Amazon or at any auto parts store. That's probably your best bet. I much prefer not to have to cut and splice factory wiring whenever possible.

I couldn't answer all your questions, but I hope that's at least a start. You may want to head over to MSF and see what others have done. Here's a thread for a similar install that I found after a quick search. Looks like OP used the hole for the hood release cable through the firewall and tapped into the BPV line for the pressure reading.

u/zapperdude60 · 1 pointr/Cartalk

Hey, I was wondering if it would be possible to use an adapter that turns one fuse into two rather than splicing the cable?

If not, do you think something like this would work?

Also, is this what you mean by testing light?

If any of these parts aren't correct, could you send me amazon links for the correct parts because I'm trying to use up my gift cards.

I really appreciate your help and I'll try to order the right parts as soon as I get the O.K. from you.

u/effinawesome · 1 pointr/DIY

I wouldn't recommend tieing into anything after the fuse since it could overload that circuit and blow it (I doubt it will happen, but it could).

You can buy something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Littelfuse-FHA200BP-ATO-Add-A-Circuit-Kit/dp/B0002BGELQ and make it a new circuit with it's own fuse.

Hope that helps.

u/mongler_richard · 1 pointr/DIY

Get one of these and run a new wire. No need to splice into existing OEM wire harnesses that cost a fortune to replace.

u/Nightm4re · 1 pointr/FordFocus

There's my problem.

http://www.amazon.com/HitCar-Vehicle-Circuit-Profile-Holder/dp/B00U61OPZ4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00


Based upon that specific one.... you have the SMALL version. I ordered the MINI and its too shallow. Thanks for your help, I will be ordering up the small version now.

Which fuse did you tap into? It seems like the consensus is 86 but it makes me weary since its the airbag module. Are there any others that are on only with the ignition?

Thanks again for your help!

u/arkhira · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Have you ever plugged in a watt meter to see what your PC consumes over say a week? Something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Energenie-429-856UK-Power-Meter/dp/B003ELLGDC.

u/ratmachinest · 1 pointr/gadgets

****Do any of this at your own risk or hire a professional to do it for you.***

Here are the parts I ordered to put mine together. I'm posting this bc of PMs.

Mobius or [Cheaper Mobius but longer wait from China] (http://www.banggood.com/Mobius-Action-Camera-1080P-HD-Mini-Sports-Camera-Wide-Angle-Edition-p-917817.html) I wanted the Wide Angle Lens for a better shot

Capacitor You don't want the battery sitting in the sun. A capacitor can handle it. So you replace the battery completely with this capacitor

Windshield Mount My mobius came with a mounting bracket that fits on this mount. The mount itself is very small, but the 3M sticker is very strong.

Hardwire Kit When hard wiring this in to the car via fuse box, this knocks the voltage down from 12v to 5v, which is what the camera needs. I used some wire strippers to expose about 5" of the red and black cables. Then stripped about an inch off each cable to expose the actual wire. The red wire goes in to the add-a-circuit mentioned below, then you crimp it closed with pliers (wasn't super easy, I must be weak). You partially unscrew a metal bolt that is attached to the metal car frame as a ground ( I used the one on top of my fuse box).

USB to Mini-USB This connects from the hardwire kit to the camera or 90 degree elbow mentioned next, for a better angle. If you are setting up the auto record when external power is on, which is what you want to do for a dash cam, you need to cut a piece of electrical tape width-wise and cover the two middle pins inside the USB cable. This is because the two middle pins (2 and 3) are data pins. Leaving those exposed makes the camera think its connected to a computer and will only do data transferring. By covering them, it only get power from pins 1 and 4 and doesn't think it's connected to a computer and will actually record.

Right Angle Mini-USB to Mini-USB Adapted This just helped keep the USB cable from sticking out too much (better angle)

Add-a-circuit This is the ATO (bigger fuse), but I ended up using the ATM (Mini) because my car has both and the fuse I wanted to use ended up being a Mini. It'd be best to look through your fuse diagram and find something non-vital (meaning don't tap in to a fuse that controls ABS or airbags, etc) and switchable (meaning it only comes on when the car turns on. You don't want the camera running 24/7), figure out what type of fuse it is, and buy that size. I ended up getting my new add-a-circuit (Littlefuse) from Oreilly auto parts for $6.99 and it came with 3, 4, 7.5, and 10A fuses. Also take note of the amperage (Never use a higher amp fuse than your add-a-circuit supports because the wire gauge may not support it and melt/burn. When adding the circuit, I removed the original fuse from the fuse box, a 10A fuse and put it the first slot(my add-a-circuit supports up to 10A) and for the 2nd slot, I used a 3A fuse because the camera and radar don't draw much. You don't want to use a higher amp fuse than necessary. Also, in my car 2011 JettaSportwagen, the add-a-circuit points down or it doesn't work. Make sure it's plugged in the correct direction or it won't do anything

32GB MicroSD Card Works fine, just make sure to format it through the camera.

Unofficial but awesome Mobius Configuration Tool Use the tooltips(hover over each option) to figure out what each things does. I set mine to autorecord when external power or the button are pushed.


You can find a lot of info here: dashcamtalk.com


To summarize the connections are:

Choose a fuse from your car's fuse diagram (non-essential and switchable), pull it, place it in the correct slot of the add-a-circuit (don't go to higher amps than is supported), plug in a fuse from the add-a-circuit kit in to the other slot to protect your camera (I used a 3A), strip the hardwire kit's cables mentioned above, put the red cable (+) from the hard wire kit in the the red end of the add-a-circuit and crimp it closed, attach the black cable (-) to a screw attached to the metal car frame, tape the two middle pins (2 and 3) in the USB cable with electrical tape, plug the USB in to the female USB on the hardwire kit, run the USB cable from the fuse box around the edges of your cars trim, up by the rearview mirror, attach the right-angle mini-usb adapter, choose where you want to mount the camera (make sure to check using the USB plugged in and camera mounted to the mount, in case it bumps the rearview mirror) (I held it on the windshield about where I thought I wanted it (to behind and to the right of the rearview mirror and took some test footage, watched it on a computer, decided it looked ok, pulled the sticker cover and attached it), clean your windshield with glass cleaner, attach the mount.

u/SharkOnGames · 1 pointr/homeowners

I read about the Sense (whole house monitoring) and some others, but ultimately I think the single-device is a better start.


I am kind of leaning towards this: https://www.amazon.com/Poniie-PN2000-Electricity-Electrical-Consumption/dp/B0777H8MS8/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=kill-a-watt&qid=1564001055&s=hi&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1

u/mrpoopiepants · 1 pointr/synology

Back in the day when I did that kind of stuff as part of my job, I would do runtime X2 and add a little more. Not exact, but a quick “rough number.”

This is a nice tool to see what your gear is doing in real time....
Poniie PN2000 Plug-in Kilowatt Electricity Usage Monitor Electrical Power Consumption Watt Meter Tester w/ Extension Cord https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0777H8MS8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HZpJDb26YPW33

u/cardinalorange · 1 pointr/electricians

I'm not an electrician but an EE, so an electrician can comment on the physical side of things- but from the spec side:

6000 W at 120V is 50 amps. You want to stay below 80% threshold so two 30A breakers would be 48 amps. It's a little over spec, and it wouldn't pass code here in WA but you'd "probably" be fine. However, if you're using 30 amp breakers you'll need 10 gauge wire, which is normally not run in 120V (it's usually 220). Typically you'd run 12/2 or 12/3 romex on 20 amp breakers. If you're running that much line, it's probably cheaper/easier to run a higher gauge (like 6 AWG) and put a subpanel in the room you can split out in 20 amp breakers. You'd have to just ask them price wise to spec it out both ways and see.

As for a "meter" you can definitely have an electrician install on (especially if you get a subpanel), but you're probably more looking for something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Electricity-Analyzer-Monitoring-Equipment/dp/B07M8JKLG5

That said (and a big "don't do any of this if you're not comfortable") it's really easy to run wire. The actual wiring at the panel/subpanel and the outlets can be a little trickier if you're not familiar, but running the wire itself is just "grunt" work. Make sure you secure it every 4ish feet, within 6 inches of the outlet, and put nail plates if it's within 1.25" of the outside edge of wood.

Edit: Assuming you have access to a crawlspace/can open walls. Running wire through closed walls/spaces fucking sucks and I don't wish it on anyone.

u/marstein · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Killawatt

For example
Poniie PN2000 Plug-in Kilowatt Electricity Usage Monitor Electrical Power Consumption Watt Meter Tester w/ Extension Cord https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0777H8MS8/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_FNxCDbWDCVFY8

u/hotrod54chevy · 1 pointr/ouya

This guy right here :) USB Hub 2.0 4-port For Mac and PC. True USB 2.0 Speed. 4-Legged Octopus (TM). Very Cute Octopus Design. (Purple) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SEEC78/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_.i3Aub04K0F4T
I thought he was powered and it wasn't. Do I need to use a powered one?

u/AntAPD · 1 pointr/Wrangler

Not in my jeep but I installed a sat radio box in my moms new honda and had to top into a constant and switched source. I bought two Add-A-Circuits from AutoZone. Just get the right size for your fuses.

Use a multimeter to find an open fuse slot in the fuse box that is a switched source. (Just have someone in passenger seat turned key on/off for you while you check them) Tap into it with the add-a-circuit and most have their own fuse holder so you can prevent any problems.

u/ExplodingToasterOven · 1 pointr/BuyItForLife

That's not buy it for life, that's super clean power, and insane luck. :D

​

Panasonic makes some cool gear and all, but they're rather infamous for cascade failure because all the components decide to die at around the same time. Even though that may be 10-15 years down the road. When it goes down, it goes down in a BIG cloud of smoke. Techs just shake their heads, say better luck next time.

​

Word to the wise, if you're shopping for old tank microwaves, look at this spare parts source first. http://www.amiparts.com/ If they have a TON of surplus parts for a microwave, and they're relatively cheap, that design was a fucking tank if its over 30 year old, like many Magic Chef, Amana, and similar microwaves are. Sharps are pretty good, if a bit stone axe in terms of design. Panasonic though, being more technical excellence, makes a SWEET all stainless switch mode power supply nuker. She's sexx on a stick in terms of design elegance. http://www.vk3hz.net/amps/Microwave_Oven_Inverter_HV_Power_Supply.pdf

​

But when it DOES go down, unless its just door switches or something stupid, an appliance tech has no chance in hell of fixing it. This version, is the most modern, probably not BIL, but I think it'll make 12-15 years if you have clean power, or MOVs/GaAS quenchers installed on your breaker panel. Like these. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-QO-22-5-kA-2-Pole-Surgebreaker-Surge-Protective-Device-QO2175SB/100202111 https://www.amazon.com/Eaton-BRSURGE-Whole-Panel-Arrest-Breaker-x/dp/B00PM927KK

​

A BIL Panasonic is this ugly buzzard, 220v, it will nuke/thaw that pot roast before you know whats happened. :D https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DE01QCE/ref=sspa_dk_detail_6?psc=1 $1500 and worth three times as much. You can sit there and nuke stuff in it 3 shifts a day, 7 days a week, 365 a year, for DECADES. lol!

​

For typical consumer goods, I would recommend, as a tech who worked on thousands of microwaves back in my larval enginerding days in college, a slightly higher end Sharp. They're kinda ho hum in terms of design engineering. I could sketch out the entire circuit diagram of one of these while absolutely hammered in less than 20 min on a napkin. https://www.amazon.com/Sharp-1200W-Countertop-Microwave-Stainless/dp/B01CAHP9YC/ Simple design, tough enough, easy to fix, easy to get parts, a complete moron appliance tech can handle these. They usually have MOVs and sacrificial traces on the controller PCB, so one of these can do 3-4 good lightning hits before they're truly toast. (or just need a new control panel PCB for $50-$75)

​

The last one I actually bought, was this one. Because once I was done with it and got something serious, it was employee break room fodder, like that last 3. https://www.menards.com/main/appliances/microwaves/countertop-microwaves/appliances/microwaves/countertop-microwaves/criterion-reg-0-9-cu-ft-countertop-microwave/ccm09g1b/p-1520494273005-c-1500043654078.htm

​

Super cheap, super simple, not a massive power hog so you can run it, the coffee pot, and the air compressor on the same circuit. Hopefully. :D Durable enough, probably make 5-6 years before the next big lighting hit fried it, and every surge suppressor in the place.

u/CompileThisPlease · 1 pointr/electricians

OAONAN GFCI Replacement Plug Assembly 2-Prongs with Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter Safety RCD Protection for Pool Pump,Power Pressure Washer,Air Conditioner,Hair Dryer and so on (15Amp 2-wires) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073PRH8H3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_R3FYCbGRQ5Y8V

u/lightfork · 1 pointr/electricians

Ok that is understandable.

By its listing you cannot use the one mentioned as it was not indented for the flexible cord you have (used for 16/3, 14/3, or 12/3 SJTW cable).

Tower used to sell this 2 prong version which seems to be discontinued but you might be able to find if you call a local electrical store. Otherwise, you should be better off using this or this made for two wire equipment.

u/Pythe · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

I'm not Grim-Sleeper but I can clarify a couple points and add my experience.

The backhaul is the connection from that AP to the rest of the network. You're already running wires for them so no worries there.

I have my entire 1900sf covered by one combo router/AP in a central location. Made of sticks rather than bricks, but as long as your interior walls aren't plaster and lath you'll probably get good results. If it can't be central, aim for kitty-corner on the two of them. I'll second Grim's recommendation of UniFi hardware.

I helped set a friend up with an in-wall network cabinet, it worked great for our application. This one by Leviton, in fact. Packed in an 8-port switch, router, Power-over-Ethernet injector (for a UniFi AP!), and cable modem with lots of room to spare. Ventilation may be a concern with this, but he hasn't complained of equipment failure yet!

DIY on this is no trouble at all. Your keystones will be color-coded, so it's a matter of practice to get the shortest length of unwound wiring you can. Since most devices nowadays can't take advantage of full CAT6a capabilities, you won't be missing out if some of your work is a bit shoddy. Pro tip: Don't bother making patch cables yourself (from the wall to the device). That's the most unreliable part of the process, and Monoprice has done wonders for their cost.

u/arightproperpotato · 1 pointr/Dashcam

Thank you! This is really helpful for me. I think I'll go with your approach of using a 12v socket USB adapter (most likely in the glove box); I don't want to risk a shoddy cable giving me problems when it's really hot/cold.

I'm relatively inexperienced when it comes to electronics/car customization, so pardon any trivial questions.

  • Is a fuse tap required if there is a vacant fuse slot in the fuse box?
  • How can I identify the correct fuse slot/amperage that I need for the dashcam (or any accessory for that matter)?
  • Is it worth purchasing a pry tool set for running the wires?
  • Assuming I use an "always on" fuse slot (so I'm able to use parking mode on the dashcam), is there concern that it could drain the battery?
  • If so, are there in-line protective devices that would prevent this, or is this an altogether incredibly unlikely event? (something like this?)

    Shopping List:

  • Fuse tap

  • 12v Socket Plug

  • Anker 2port USB car charger

  • 15ft micro USB to USB cable
u/Laxtorre · 1 pointr/boostedboards

I got it to work with this 150 watt inverter but there was a catch that could be potentially harmful which I'll type below:

http://m.advanceautoparts.com/p/schumacher-150-watt-power-converter-xi15/11021654-P?searchTerm=150+watt

Interestingly enough this 140 watt inverter's over current protection would shut itself down and reboot about every 20 seconds:

http://m.advanceautoparts.com/p/schumacher-140-watt-280-peak-watt-power-converter-xi14/10999863-P?searchTerm=140+watts

The catch :
The factory rated fuse for my cigarette lighter style vehicle power port that blew after a few seconds is 10a. I popped in a 15a fuse temporarily as a tester to match the 15a draw rating on the 150 watt inverter (the 140 watt inverter draws 13a)
The board started charging and I monitored it from 73% to 98% it was pretty damn satisfying.

( ⚠️ WARNING ⚠️ potential hazard to be taken seriously)
Permanently replacing a 10a fuse with a 15a fuse can lead to "Hot wires" an cause a fire 🔥. Just don't do it. There is a reason the 10a fuse is there.

Permanent plan, for me at least:

I am going to use a fuse tap rated for up to 20a:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K17M2IU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1tG9ybW509X4S

This fuse tap will be running to an unoccupied 20a fuse slot reserved for the Acura MDX tow package.
From there I am going to solder and heat shrink this to the fuse tap:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZYT4YG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DHG9ybCFR0YDT

This should do it with the 150 watt inverter. Safely.

u/rootsoverfruits · 1 pointr/DIY

I think you mean like this>

http://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-BP-MB-20-Circuit-Breaker/dp/B000GAS1GY

edit - I didn't find any 30A rated ones though, maybe look as to why your appliances are blowing fuses that they didn't use to? See what things share a circuit and reduce the load on the circuit by not running multiple things at the same time.

u/PiMan3141592653 · 1 pointr/homelab

Something like this

Kuman Electricity Usage Monitor Plug Power Meter Energy Watt Voltage Amps Meter with Digital LCD Display,Overload Protection and 7 Display Modes for Energy Saving (NO-Backlight) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DPJ3RGB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pgHKDbFSP9FM6

I haven't used it personally, so I cant personally vouch for it. But it seems to fit your wants.

u/InappropriateTA · 1 pointr/funny

This can help you make your own labels.

u/XaphoonYouCrazy · 1 pointr/scion

Nah I'm totally okay with running cable through the firewall. I've set up the sound system in my car so I've already done that for the power cable, I've also tapped into the clock for the remote wire for the amp.
So essentially, find out where the fuse is for dome lights, (insert object always on here), plug in one of these bad boys: http://www.amazon.com/Littelfuse-FHA200BP-ATO-Add-A-Circuit-Kit/dp/B0002BGELQ
and use the wire for power?

u/utahz · 1 pointr/carcrash

I did the same, took me a while to get it working properly though.

I don't know, I don't use the cable clips. I used one of these to wire it into my car and ran the cable behind the siding roof lining.

u/FakeGodAccount · 1 pointr/CarAV

The power connector needs to run to a switched power source. In Trailblazers (and most other late model GMs), there is no switched power wire for the stereo. This gives you 2 options. Option 1 is to run the power connector wire to a physical switch that you would have to flip to turn the amp on and off. This is less than ideal, because if you forget to turn it off, you can end up draining your battery. Option 2 is to get an add-a-fuse, and put it in to a slot (such as cigarette lighter) in the fuse box (under the rear seat) that will give you switched power. You might have to try a few different slots until one works.

u/td42 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Just a standard home AC power meter.

I specifically use an Energenie

u/Flene · 1 pointr/CarAV

Hook the Bazooka harness's red cable to your car radio harness's orange cable. Hook the Bazooka harness's blue/white cable into your fuse box with an "add-a-circuit" available at your local Walmart or Autozone. Use some speaker wire or something to get it over there and ziptie it neatly along they way. Add it to a circuit that turns on and off with the key, maybe the cigarette lighter circuit. Hook the black ground ring to a bare metal (not painted) bolt on your car's chassis. Hook the speakers up as stated. When you're all done, make sure it works and that it turns off when your car is off. Enjoy!

u/BCosteloe · 1 pointr/homeautomation

This is probably obvious...and code now requires it...but make sure all your power lines run to the light switches before the load (ie, have access to a neutral wire). Most of the smart switches/dimmers etc require a neutral wire to operate (ie, they must have power all the time, and they relay the loads).

Since you're framing, now would be the easiest time to do wall-mounted TV Power and "behind the wall" conduits, similar to what this product enables: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009VYDHFQ

I agree with the other posters on the Cat6. I'd create a central hub location/utility closet and then run 2 lines of Cat6 to each room/wall likely to have a TV or computer. I can't speak on the Coax because I don't watch cable tv, but it's cheap enough...so why the hell not. Personally, I'd also run 2 lengths of speaker wire to each room as well (for stereo sound in your ceilings or walls). It's way cheaper to run a whole house music system from a central location via passive speakers than it is to say, buy $2,000-3,000+ in Sonos wireless speakers that could cover the same square footage. I think it's nice to have speakers out of sight and out of the way as well. Even if you don't install speakers, run the wire...it's cheap.

It's also nice to wire some outlets into areas that you think might work well for routers or wireless repeaters so that they can be mounted up high and possibly out of sight...without dangling wires. Even better, install a few of these in between the studs where your TV's, computers, routers, etc might go for super clean setups: https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-47605-28W-Structured-Media-Center/dp/B0002472KK. Make sure you wire outlets to the boxes so that all the power wires can stay inside the enclosure...

Personally, I think it would be worthwhile to start thinking, researching and planning exactly what features and gadgets you'd like your home to support NOW so that you can install exactly what you need without wasting materials or time on things you may not need...it also helps to work through certain issues, requirements and logistics while your home is most accessible sans insulation and sheetrock...

>An hour of planning can save you 10 hours of doing. - Dale Carnegie

u/MeatAndBourbon · 1 pointr/FiestaST

Terminals: (need 2, get at least 10, you'll mangle at least a couple) https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/molex/0330122001/WM2989CT-ND/2405588

Add-a-circuit: https://www.amazon.com/Uriveusa-Circuit-Adapter-Holder-Upgraded/dp/B01LFXA5YQ

Also need some 16g wire (or so, 16 is the smallest that properly fits the blue crimp connection on the add-a-fuse, though I'd recommend using heat-shrinkable butt splices instead, just for the water proofing).

u/waspsmacker · 1 pointr/apple

I mean...there are octopus cables.

Is that what you're looking for?

u/Mcsquizzy · 1 pointr/subaru

Check out this site to find an always-on circuit. Likely door locks, cabin lights, etc. Or you could splice one of the fuses under the steering column. Avoid anything airbag related (yellow stickers, yellow wires, yellow tape) and the illumination circuits (dash lights, backlit buttons, they are backwards from other circuits and you'll short it like I did). I'd probably recommend getting a fuse jumper and tapping into an always-on circuit. Be careful about draining the battery, of course. I'd suggest a mobile jump starter if you're planning on using power with the car off.

u/thirstyross · 1 pointr/Dashcam

Depending on the cam there will either be two or three wires that need connecting. One will be a ground and can be connected to any bolt around the fuse box that connects to the metal of the car body.

If only two wires then you would connect the other to either a fuse that is "always on" such as the stop lights (simply marked STOP) on my fuse box cover, or a line that is only on when the key is in and turned on, like the radio fuse. Which way you connect it will depend on your installation/camera and if you want to have a parking mode, etc

If there are three wires then you need to connect the remaining two wires to both of the fuses outlined above. If you know what kind of fuses your car uses (probably can google this) you can buy your add-a-fuses from amazon or if you don't just go to a car parts place, they can give you the correct ones.

An add-a-fuse is like this -> https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00I0MWPXU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

you pull the existing fuse out of your fuse box, stick it into the add-a-fuse, so that there are now two in the add-a-fuse, and you install it where you took the fuse from. then just crimp the wire in the crimp connector (you'd want pliers for this) and you're good!

u/Nix-geek · 1 pointr/autorepair

Yes. You'll need to find a 12 volt power source that turns off with the key is removed from the ignition. This may or may not be simple. You'll need a multi-meter, and you'll need to probe power sources under the dash until you find one that cuts off when the key is out. Usually, the best place to start is at the inside fuse block. You can get a fuse tap that fits into the existing fuse slot and gives you a power lead and the existing fuse. [Like this] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BGELQ/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687442&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000CQDRTI&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0HP8993WYB5TQ9Q8D907)

You may need to look at your fuse block to see if you need one with a lower profile.

u/hombrent · 1 pointr/vandwellers

I know the solar charge controllers support it, but I wouldn't run the load through the charge controller. I would run the battery load directly to your positive and negative bus bars (through a master on/off switch and a fuse). Personally I don't think that the features that it provides is worth the extra dependency of having the load go through an unrelated sensitive electronics piece. Don't take my opinion on this as gospel. Make your own choice.

Your charge controller should be as close as possible to the batteries. Hopefully in the same box/cabinet, and close enough that you shouldn't need a fuse between them.

Are you going to be able to charge off the alternator or off shore power?

Consider a battery monitor separate from the charge controller. That way you can track all power going into/out of the battery, regardless of source.

Like TimelessNY said, you likely don't need the fuse to the panels. I have a MC4 fuse on my roof, to break the circuit if one of the wires cuts through and shorts out on the chassis. But you shouldn't need a fuse to prevent overloading the wires with load.

Personally I went with Victron for the MPPT and battery monitor. the bluetooth integration is super awesome convenient. Don't feel like if you are getting renogy panels you need renogy controllers too.

I don't think that your 100A fuse will be able to handle a 3000W surge power to the inverter. Unless you get a long delay breaker like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007P5UNNW . Also, put the fuse between your battery and the inverter as close to the battery as possible. On the battery side of the switch. ideally in the battery box.

For AC distribution, it depends on which inverter you have. Does it have a hardwire capability? Mine does, so I set up 3 busses, one for live, one for neutral and one for ground. I hardwired my outlets (and my TV) into these buses.

Which isolator do you have? Depending on what you have, wiring strategies could differ.

u/techworm33 · 1 pointr/mazda3

I attempted this.. In my experience its not possible. Instead i fuse-tapped from the internal fuse box an accessory fuse, so when the car turns on the lights are on.

During the day they unfortunately are on.. but you will not notice them unless they are super bright.

Cant remember what fuse i used... Think it was the 11th position or 9th position fuse (just test both) here

This is the [tap] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K17A2E6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and [lights] (http://www.ebay.com/itm/4pc-Red-LED-Under-Dash-Kit-Interior-Glow-Lights/271823827548?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649) i used, i also grabbed 20 gauge wire from home depot. (You will need to know how to wire them together)



u/comradenu · 1 pointr/mazda3

Seems like the hardwiring kit in /u/nonvideas post is out of stock. You can use these two things instead:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I0MWPXU?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EZJBELQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00

This is what I used. There's a panel under the fuel lid/hood release latches that uncovers a small fuse panel. First, unscrew the big bolt you see (you may have to pry the bigger plastic cover slightly) using a 13mm socket. Tighten the bolt so that the black ground cable from the cigarette lighter thing is secure. Then, insert the red power cable into the red wire connector from the fuse tap and crimp the wire. Now you're ready to tap your fuse box. Take out the fuse you want to tap, insert it into the fuse tap, then insert the fusetap fuse into that same socket. Now you're tapped into the battery power and only the ignition will power the cigarette lighter.

u/chrisbrl88 · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

I, personally, don't like "internet of things" doodads attached to my home's mechanicals. They're vulnerable to attack by botnets.

This one, in particular, is just a fancy Kill-A-Watt type device.

Is it something you really need or is it just a $300 gadget you kinda want because it looks cool?

u/jds013 · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I have the GoControl - it works just fine and is very unobtrusive. I use an external 24V power supply with it as I have a 40-year old furnace with a 2-wire control and no 'C' connection. We can say "OK Google set the thermostat to 70" or "OK Google make it warmer", and use the SmartThings app to adjust the heat when we're away from home. (Note the comment I added above about smart outlets.)

u/NotKorbin · -1 pointsr/CarAV

A power inverter is what you'll need. As for wiring it in, perhaps something like this will help. You could just find a circuit that comes on with the key (radio circuit usually) to plug that into. However, that wire does seem a little too thin to run an inverter..