Best building materials according to redditors
We found 1,243 Reddit comments discussing the best building materials. We ranked the 638 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 1,243 Reddit comments discussing the best building materials. We ranked the 638 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
The Amazon reviews page if anyone wants to see the impact of bad press..
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/reviews/B01KUZ2JPS/ref=cm_cr_dp_mb_btm?ie=UTF8
Rust-Oleum 7860519 Tub And Tile Refinishing 2-Part Kit, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PTSBKW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2jm1Bb4AAERTQ
It also doesn't help that first page of review on Amazon are nearly all one-star from verified purchasers: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KUZ2JPS
I bought this off Amazon and haven't had any problems.
https://smile.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU
It’s this device, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0752P57ZG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Hyk1BbSPGZBWT and it uses the eWeLink app to configure.
I want to be able to, for example, grant access to my in-laws so they can let themselves in, but without having them signed in to my Alexa account.
This is more of an Alexa or IFTTT question, as this same question could apply to my Lutron controllers, ecobee, etc...
Then that's a shitty ass gun range. Most ranges don't give a shit about retarded laws. Personally I have a copy of the March 21, 2017 letter on me when I take my AR 9 to the range.
Anyways here's my AR 9
http://i.imgur.com/D4onaM8.jpg
http://palmettostatearmory.com/psa-9mm-7-5-pistol-length-6-lightweight-m-lok-upper-with-hybrid-bcg-and-ch.html
http://palmettostatearmory.com/review/product/list/id/23736
https://www.amazon.com/Tactical-Rifles-Shotguns-Ozark-Armament/dp/B010OMQSR2
https://www.amazon.com/Ozark-Armament-Picatinny-Flat-top-Co-Witness/dp/B01AISP1KW
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1006228190/glock-magazine-gen-4-glock-17-19-26-34-9mm-luger-33-round-polymer-black
https://www.kakindustry.com/shockwave-black
3/21/2017 ATF Letter (PDF) on allowing shouldering: https://www.sigsauer.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/atf-letter-march-21-2017.pdf
https://www.amazon.com/Magpul-MAG406-BLK-Polymer-Section-5-Slot/dp/B003F6EMQO/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_200_lp_tr_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=3Z3PEQ2R635682GQ1XKM
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/2319453274/magpul-afg2-angled-forend-grip-ar-15-polymer
I just installed mine last night, you need the my q internet gateway, not all openers come with it, but the serial number is on the bottom of the gateway. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B7CDSQ8/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1479230823&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=myq
I bought this go control unit from amazon back in October and set it up without much trouble. Initially I just had a hub and this for my garage to be able to check the door status after we left the house and my wife would question whether the door had closed.
I was in my basement at about 10pm the first time I heard the garage open. I thought it was odd since I knew my wife was upstairs on her computer so I checked it out and asked if she had triggered the door to open from her phone though I wasn't sure if she knew she could do this. I checked a few things on the smart things app, shut the door from the OG button outside and went to bed.
About a month later I woke up and headed out to work to find the garage door open. When I got to my car I immediately knew it had been gone through. Nothing valuable to a thief was stolen but they did take the hand mics to both my ham radio and my cb (I offroad and use these to communicate with my group), a knife that was in the driver front door pocket, and a car phone charger.
I checked my wifes car and saw that the center console had been tossed. Her car is kind of a mess so although I knew someone had gone through it I couldn't tell if anything was gone. I knew I couldn't do anything about it at that point so I left for work and an hour later when I knew she'd be awake I texted her about what had happened. She walked down to check the garage and it was open again after I know it closed when I left. She closed it and did her thing before also leaving for work.
I was in the middle of something at the office so I couldn't immediately leave but a few minutes later I went home (20 minutes away) and disconnected the GoControl. I haven't done anything with it since then. I did realize later though that the thief took my dewalt 20v battery and unplugged my charger to also take but actually left because the power cable was twisted around a few different things. I feel fortunate that they didn't steal more because I had my drills and other tools right in front of my car on a work bench.
Suspicious, but ReviewMeta's adjusted score is still 4/5.
MyQ Smart Garage Door Opener Chamberlain MYQ-G0301 - Wireless & Wi-Fi enabled Garage Hub with Smartphone Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075H7Z5L8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aSe2DbJSKHWY7
Tell your pops I used this stuff on my tub and it came out nice.
Couple tips: The directions say to use like 400 grit sandpaper, screw that, I tried that for almost 20 minutes and it wasn't doing a thing. I went down to like 150 grit. Real rough stuff. And it gouged the surface right up. I would periodically wipe the dust off with a damp cloth, then dry the surface and start sanding again. I think I sanded for just over an hour, taking a lot of short breaks to catch my breath since it was a pretty good workout. Once most of the gloss was gone and it was pretty well gouged up I applied the epoxy. People in the reviews complained about the vapors from the epoxy. So I setup two fans, a box fan blowing out the window and another fan blowing right at my head (the toilet's at the perfect height for this ;-)) And I felt completely fine breathing normally. It's been about a year and it's holding up great. Though we have babied it, just cleaning it with soap and water and a soft sponge, but it stays clean fairly easily and still looks great. Highly recommended easy DIY job for an old tub.
Ive used one a few times:
(https://www.amazon.com/Whizzy-Wheel-Sticker-Remover-Adapter/dp/B00FJF0O2K/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?keywords=3m+eraser+wheel&pd_rd_r=0a9f7541-1a45-45ff-b163-c6cfab173a0e&pd_rd_w=dQLT6&pd_rd_wg=DYqgw&pf_rd_p=7be70e42-b5c0-4077-873a-35a472a6fbd4&pf_rd_r=TN1R5CFFCVTP7YSH9NFG&qid=1569271761&s=gateway&sr=8-3-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzUEs2R1pMWkdYQ1o1JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjM0MTAxMkpLN1hVUFcyTlQxSSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwODk5MDg0TkZNTzVXR0RSSVhFJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==)
They make a big mess (imagine using a pencil eraser x 1000), but get they job done. They mark up the wall a little, but not enough you should have to patch it.
If you have a Chamberlain or Liftmaster (or compatible) garage door opener, you can install the LiftMaster MyQ Retrofit Package to add smart capabilities.
This enables you to see the state of, and control, the garage door via their website, mobile app.
It also works with certain 3rd party integrations, such as Wink and Nest, to control the door, alert on events, and initiate actions based on the door status. For example, you can have your Nest go into home/away mode, or have lights turn on/off, locks open/close, etc., based on the door opening or closing.
You can set up rules to notify you if the door is opened/closed and/or left open/closed for set periods of time. I have mine set to send an alert on the door opening and another alert if it's left open for 5 minutes.
You can also set (locally, on the control panel) the door to automatically close after 1, 5, or 10 minutes.
For safety reasons, you can't officially automate the opening or closing of the door, although there are some unofficial ways to use the API for this.
Thought I would share since this is a pretty recent development, and I was about an hour away from installing this at my vacation rental property... For those interested, The GoControl z-wave garage door opener will work with a Smart Things hub and is officially supported.
Pretty pissed that I won't finish the automation install at this house this weekend but really glad I didn't was a whole bunch of time installing this!
I was getting murdered last year. This year I'm a little better prepared. I highly recommend:
I don't even use the last one much any more with the screen but could be good for peace of mind with your baby. Just make sure you empty the trap outside.
I have gotten a lot off of Amazon. Like a bunch of cheap cat toys. A screen for my deck door. A comforting book. The world's best chocolate covered cherries. My favorite coffee. This fur throw to go on this chair. And this playpen/sleeper for my been nephew. Amazon's so good.
Try this: https://www.amazon.com/Sauers-CECOMINOD058354-Wood-Identification-Kit/dp/B003F0C9EW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539613946&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=veneer+sample&dpPl=1&dpID=51neA%2BDyIEL&ref=plSrch
So I just built a new house, and the builders installed a MyQ-compatible motor (has the little MyQ logo on it). In this case, all one would need is this.
If your garage door is NOT MyQ-compatible, one would need this instead. This option is able to control non-MyQ garage doors. From Amazon: "MyQ Garage works with most major brands of garage door openers made after 1993. Compatibility is based on whether existing garage doors and openers are equipped with adequate safety features, such as sensor eyes. For more information about compatibility, visit Chamberlain.com/MyQGarage"
Whizzy Wheel Car Decal and Sticker Remover with Drill Adapter Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FJF0O2K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sTNmDbM3E6BNS
This made the job on mine SO much easier.
My vinyl guy gave me one of these: https://smile.amazon.com/Whizzy-Wheel-Sticker-Remover-Adapter/dp/B00FJF0O2K to remove my decals, but mine were older. Also, these: https://smile.amazon.com/Ehdis-Visibility-Plastic-Scraping-Windshields/dp/B01HLWB0BM for scraping. Acetone and/or alcohol to remove any residue. This will also remove wax, so re-wax when you're done.
If you do have a shadow, try Hops143 polishing, but I think I'd skip the Heavy Duty compound. Try a small area with just the Finesse-It first, and see if that's satisfactory. You don't want to create more work for yourself, and it doesn't look oxidized. Here's more than you ever needed to know about compound/polish/wax - https://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-maintenance/52772-tips-compound-polish-wax.html
This one works great for me. I have it set to remind me if the garage door is left open longer than 15 minutes during the day, or if it is open at all after bedtime. it will auto close at certain times of the night, and when I set the house alarm...
The current reviews on Amazon are amazing.
I thought the same thing. Maybe set 1/4 depth on a circular saw and cut some groves in it. Or something like THIS. Wet moss + smooth boards = slip > break neck > drown in creek.
Check out myQ technology...it may be compatible with your existing opener. I bought this device and it was super easy to install. If others install the app they should be able to open it. I imagine as owner you could manage access like one would a digital lock and remove access after their stay.
At the moment I currently don’t allow guests access to the garage but I use this for peace of mind when I’m away. I can check status and see if it’s open/shut and for how long. I can open and close it remotely...heck I use it when I’m up on the 3rd floor and about to go to bed and don’t feel like going all the way downstairs to make sure it’s shut. Easily one of my favorite home automation devices!
Overhead Door is the only company that comes to mind for any reputable company in the area. You can actually mod an existing garage door to do different things. I found some resources from Amazon a while back. I have a LiftMaster, so I saved this stuff for myself. I'm sure that you can find easy solutions similar to this. Greetings from Hanover.
Liftmaster 888LM Security+ 2.0 MyQ Wall Control Upgrades Previous Models 1998 (and later) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B8BFG0O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ebl1DbZCCAZZ0
Chamberlain/Liftmaster Cigbu Internet Gateway For Myq Technology Enabled Garage Door Openers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B7CDSQ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bcl1DbM8CD8JJ
I bought the Linear GoControl Z-wave controller. It's compatible with most garage door openers, you just hook up a couple of wires into the garage door opener.
I have it connected to SmartThings, it works like a charm.
This device is currently natively supported in SmartThings and will both control your garage door and let you know if it's open/closed: http://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU
GoControl/Linear edge
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00M75TEIU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502321646&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=go+control+zwave&dpPl=1&dpID=41mR-vfm7WL&ref=plSrch
This works with some, but all, garage door openers. And when it works it's extremely way to use and install. I use mine with Smart things hub.
Today in lulzy Amazon & IoT (Internet of Trash) news:
Guy buys a "smart" garage door opener that can be controlled by smartphone. He has trouble setting it up, gets frustrated, posts a one-star Amazon review. Owner of the company retaliates by blacklisting his specific garage door opener on their servers, rendering it useless.
Thread on the company forums, Hacker News thread, Amazon product page.
I'm always surprised that more people that trailer do not have a better solution to the wet feet problem. Years ago I installed traction tape on my bumper and top side of my trailer. 3M traction tape has worked great on the topside of my bumper for years, and these shower treads work great on the trailer, and even glow in the dark for night loading. I just step from dock to bumper to trailer tongue, and winch the last foot or two. I'm about as clumsy as they come, but have never had an issue with this arrangement.
I've had good results with this, and it's waaaay cheaper than hiring someone: Epoxy Refinishing Kit
There are special 2 part epoxy paints that are used for this.
We used this paint to refinish a green bathtub, and it was easy to apply, and looked great until it started to scratch, peel, etc.
It is super smelly and requires proper ventilation and a respirator type mask.
They're much more like standard bricks. It's what you would line a brick oven with. They look like this
If you want hard brick, its on amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Rutland-Products-604-Fire-Brick/dp/B000UEYZ4S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500563383&sr=8-1&keywords=fire+brick
For Soft brick, maybe this one:
https://www.amazon.com/EuroTool-Fire-Brick-SOL-485-00/dp/B012C5ZIAC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500563409&sr=8-1&keywords=soft+fire+brick
Sorry I'll try to clear it up. This is the door sensor: http://www.gocontrol.com/detail.php?productId=14 it is a simple device that connects to my home automation system via z-wave. inside is a simple reed switch that is monitored for conductivity and usually latched on and off by a magnet mounted to a door or window.
The Channel 1&2 are outputs used for Arm and Disarm from the GDRR.
I'll be using it to trigger an my system to arm when latched and disarm when unlatched.
Everything is 12V and the relays draw less than 150 milliamps.
GDRR: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0071EYS9M/
Relays I have not purchased yet.
In summary my goal is to use my garage door opener in my vehicle to open and close a circuit to fool a sensor into thinking a door is open or closed to have it turn on other systems that enable my other sensors. I feel this would function in the real world but my concern is if I should use other components.
I have almost the same opener as you. I wanted something simple to allow remote open/close and notifications if it's been open. I didn't really want the complexity of SmartThings so I went with the Chamberlain Gateway. It works great and you can setup custom push notifications that notify you through their app.
I used these to remove hundreds of square feet of decals off my 5th wheel, they are amazing and I wish I found them sooner. Doesn’t hurt the finish at all.
Whizzy Wheel
Funny, I just got an email from Liftmaster/Chamberlain in regards to a myQ update implementing a new feature, looks like it's called Family Share. It looks like you'll be able to add people so they can control the door through the app, and then you can remove them when they're done.
If you just have 1 garage door, this kit should get you going.
I've been using this one for over a year without any issues - GoControl/Linear GD00Z-4 Z-Wave Garage Door Opener Remote Controller, Small, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M75TEIU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3JsHAbS1DN09R
You have a lot of options. Easiest would probably go with a hub like a Samsung SmartThings hub and get zwave door/window sensors.
For the garage door you could use the GoControl outfit kit https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU
The fireplace gets a bit tricky depending on how the control is. Most newer homes with gas logs are on a milivolt system, meaning the switch on the wall that opens the gas valve doesnt actually have power, its just a signal wire. For this case you need to get power to that switch location which could be as easy as tapping into the lines of an adjacent switch. You need a Zwave dry contact swtich. https://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Zwave-Contact-Fixture-Module/dp/B00913ATFI
The best option, in my opinion, is one of these and an appropriate Z-Wave controller. Everything else will handcuff you to one specific cloud platform and limit your integration options.
I use the model that you’re talking about (GoControl/Linear GD00Z-4 Z-Wave Garage Door Opener Remote Controller, Small, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M75TEIU/) and it works great, and a shout-out to their support team for owning up to a known defect in the first version that I got where it would beep and do everything as expected, but not actually open the garage. So, technically, I’d say 5 stars, though I’d have to knock it down to 4 stars only for the trouble of replacing the lemon unit with a working one.
Every now and then, the replacement unit does exhibit this problem of beeping and not doing anything when I ask it to, but that’s so few and far between, and works if I go after it for a second time, that I’d still recommend this to you.
You can also try this. I have been looking at it, but have not used it.
http://www.amazon.com/Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Garage-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU/ref=pd_sim_hi_52?ie=UTF8&refRID=0PD4QQWQ1F30G2K0616A
I spent some time researching this, and ended up getting a z-wave garage door opener off Amazon (this one). It works well, communicates over Z-wave and reaches through several walls to my Z-Wave light switches to join the Z-Wave mesh my SmartThings hub communicates with - With that said, I found out rather quickly afterward that Amazon purposely prevents Alexa from working with any type of smart door/locking mechanism, which made me sadface. I could probably still get it to work through Smart Things custom scripting editor, but honestly I'm fine just doing it through the ST app.
I have the GoControl Z-Wave Controller and it works great with Smartthings.
I would get the hub earlier on since you want to monitor your washer/dryer, and if you have the hub you can buy devices that work with your hub so you can control everything from one spot.
The easiest solution for monitoring your washer/dryer are going to be z-wave devices. For the dryer, if it's electric, a sensor to detect vibration, or if it's gas, you can maybe get away with an outlet that detects current. For the washing machine, usually an outlet that detects current can work for you. It can be a bit tricky to get going though.
Skip the wemo plug and go with a z-wave plug. Any reason for the Lutron dimmers in specific?
For the bathroom fan, I use a z-wave smart switch. I don't have it tied to a humidity sensor, but I have it set (controlled by my hub) to turn off after 25 minutes, that way I don't have to worry about turning it off when I'm in a rush to leave for work. If I wanted to have it triggered by humidity levels or motion, or whatever all I need to do is add another z-wave device and I can make it happen.
The RainMachine seems cool, but pricey for an irrigation controller, no? I use the Orbit B-Hyve and it works great. I rarely ever interface with it honestly. I pull out my phone and run the zones occasionally to check that I don't have any broken heads, otherwise it just runs. It can be completely controlled from your phone, and can be controlled directly from the device as well. The other day I adjusted my schedule a little bit and increased the runtime on a few zones. Is your irrigation controller inside? If not, with the RainMachine you will also need to buy an enclosure to keep it weatherproof, whereas the B-Hyve is built into a weatherproof enclosure.
For garage door automation, there is a great z-wave option on the market. GD00Z-4 that will integrate into whatever hub you get.
Now as far as hubs go, I wouldn't go Wink personally. SmartThings is a bit annoying but it is the most used system on the market and there are some perks to that. You'll see recommendations for running Home Assistant, and that's a solution that requires some tinkering. HomeSeer is great, and if I started over completely I probably would have gone this route, but I have a bunch of zigbee devices, and the recommended way for using Zigbee with HomeSeer is to use another hub (Lightify Hub), and I don't really care for that solution. I'm using Hubitat now, it's an early product and I've had my frustrations with it but I like to tinker so it works for me.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013NT3OAC
HERE'S WHAT YOU DO
I am assuming your fireplace is propane or natural gas and not wood. A real wood fire would be hard to automate. I am also assuming that your fireplace has an IR remote control...otherwise we are in the realm of servos and stuff to automate a physical control.
Embed a small magnet in the tip of the wand, and embed the controller half of a door sensor somewhere near the fireplace; a recessed one like this may offer the cleanest install. When the magnet in the wand gets close to the door sensor, it will report that it's closed and you can use that as a trigger for the action. From there, a Harmony Hub is probably the best way to turn the door close into an IR signal.
You could also set "incendio" as a custom voice command for a nearby Google Home, so it's the spoken charm that makes the action and all the wand-waving is just for show, but having to say the "hey google" wake word kind of breaks the illusion.
Verified purchase reviews on Amazon do not harken confidence in the product or the company.
I went with this: https://www.amazon.com/Chamberlain-MYQ-G0301-Garage-Delivery-Eligible/dp/B075H7Z5L8
https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Garage-Opener-Chamberlain-MYQ-G0301/dp/B075H7Z5L8
This might work for you
And you don't even have to replace your opener. You can buy something like the Meross garage door kit (https://www.amazon.com/meross-Smart-Control-Compatible-Assistant/dp/B07L5DPK8P). It needs power, wifi signal, and needs to connect to contacts on your existing opener. If you have a wired "doorbell style" button, you can just splice it into those wires. It also comes with a door sensor so you can see if the door is currently open or closed and get warnings if the door is open longer than a set time limit.
I've been using Meross, which goes on sale pretty frequently on Amazon. It works well and has Alexa integration.
https://www.amazon.com/meross-Smart-Control-Compatible-Assistant/dp/B07L5DPK8P
I used one of these and it works quite well.
https://www.amazon.com/meross-Smart-Control-Compatible-Assistant/dp/B07L5DPK8P
I came across a post on SF not too long ago where a guy used grip tape to "topy" a pair of shoes himself. I was thinking of trying this - stupid idea? I know a good cobbler can do it for $20 but I've got like 6 pairs of shoes I'd like to cover (just a half-sole). I feel like if you cut the tape perfectly and maybe use a little rubber cement it'll hold just fine.
Consider buying a different plate. Any Arca-Swiss compatible plate will work with that head. Your tripod is sold under a variety of brand names and I have one very similar to yours. I bought a new plate from fpgear.com so I could still use my BlackRapid strap.
You could try buying some grit tape and put a strip on the bottom of your camera and then mount the plate. That should give the plate some more grip against the camera body.
We used traction tape at my old job, this might work for you - http://amzn.com/B0006HVKM4
Use this stuff:
http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-7860519-Refinishing-2-Part-White/dp/B000PTSBKW
I used it on my stained shower pan, and it made it like new. Follow the directions TO THE LETTER.
I'm going to try this on my acrylic bathtub.
I have the same style sink as you in my kitchen, so I'm going to use that too. I think it's worth a try. Also, I would probably youtube a few videos before attempting it.
Edit: Seems like a few people have fixed cracks just like yours. (Check out the review pictures.)
You might be interested in this tub paint.
I painted porcelain wall tile in our bathroom that was avocado green about 2 years ago and it's held up brilliantly.
I used this stuff
My fiance recently did our toilet and tile with no experience. We did take a free tiling class at a local store. It was a nice hands-on class and they gave us 20% off of all of the equipment. Borrow equipment (float, trowel, mixer) from friends and family if you don't plan on tiling again in the future.
We bought a really nice Toto toilet from homeclick.com for less than $200. There was free shipping and no sales tax. My dad has purchased two toilets from them (both Toto) with no issues.
If you can't afford a new tub now and the issue is mostly cosmetic, Rustoleum makes a tub and tile paint that works pretty well. I purchased from Amazon here. It's a good way to put off the really large purchases (tile and the needed supplies can be expensive). To give you an idea of cost, we tiled the floor of a 30 sf room with high-quality tile and it was over $400 for the cement, mat (we used the mat instead of backer board), grout, tile, and supplies.
We put the tile in before placing the toilet. We didn't replace our tub, but there isn't any tile under it, it just goes up the edge and there's a line of caulk.
This one has good reviews and seems fairly simple to apply.
http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-7860519-Refinishing-2-Part-White/dp/B000PTSBKW/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top#productDetails
I used two kits of this on my dark pink tub about a year ago and it doesn't show any wear yet. http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-7860519-Refinishing-2-Part-White/dp/B000PTSBKW/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426613305&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=rustoleum+bath+refinder
I realize it may begin to wear eventually - but we will probably sell the house later this year. If I knew I was going to be in a house for more than ten years, I'd go for professional resurfacing - but for my purposes the DIY worked great. Just be sure to ventilate and follow the directions to a T. Read the amazon reviews and understand the process before you jump in.
Good luck!
I just did this, and I used this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PTSBKW/
Basically, it's a 2-part epoxy paint which you brush on (they also have a spray paint version). It comes in 3 colors, white, almond, and bisque.
It'll take a lot of prep work, you basically need to clean the entire bathroom several times over, and scrape off all old paint and such from the tiles. It also smells really bad, I had to take breaks every 5 minutes, and that was with a heavy duty rebreather mask. It will probably smell worse for longer if you go with the spray paint version.
It came out quite nice though, and it seems to be holding up well.
https://www.amazon.com/Rutland-Products-604-Fire-Brick/dp/B000UEYZ4S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502322350&sr=8-1&keywords=fire+brick or any fire bricks, this was just the first one after I searched "fire brick"
Well I screwed up a bit on the refractory. It was dried out and not pliable enough so I added a little water. I also didn't let it cure enough so there was some water still in it when I fired up the first time and it bubbled up and flaked about a 1/8th inch off.
Here is what I ordered.
Refractory:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002OU2Y62/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Ceramic Fire blanket:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DE2FD26/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Fire bricks
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UEYZ4S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
0 to 30 PSI regulator
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VXEW4G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
+1 for fire bricks. I use these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UEYZ4S
Well, there's this for metals: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DM7VBCT
Or wood: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003F0C9EW
Polymers: https://mindsetsonline.co.uk/shop/polymer-identification-set/
Or for 300€, you can get a professional plastic sample set meant for product design: https://www.plasticprop.com/buy-samples
You could buy a veneer sample pack, which includes several species of wood samples that are labled, and use them like flash cards to study the different characteristics. Or you could compare them to the furniture in your house.
A cheaper way to learn different commonly used wood species would be to walk into Home Depot or Lowe's or even better, a lumber specific store and just study the wood they have there. Typical stuff used around the eastern United States is oak, cherry, maple, walnut, pine, hickory, poplar, cedar, etc. They each have very distinct features like grain pattern, grain spacing, color, density, hardness, and even odor. Cedar for example is very soft, very lightweight, and has a strong odor, which you've smelled if you ever walked into a pet shop that uses cedar chips for rodent cages. While oak is very hard, and heavy and smells more like bad body odor.
Keep in mind that there are lots of different species like I mentioned above, but then there are subspecies like southern yellow pine, white pine, western red cedar, white cedar, black walnut, birdseye maple, silver maple, etc. And even within them examples of each can vary widely, because it its organic nature. But there will always be tell tale signs to narrow it down pretty close.
I'd definitely check out your local big box store and ask them what aisle the finish lumber is in, or just ask where the oak is. They usually sort everything by species and will have plenty of oak, poplar, maple and pine on hand. Lumber specialty stores will have a wider selection of stuff like walnut, and cherry. You can handle in, smell it, poke it with your thumbnail to see how hard it is, and even buy some to use as a reference. Prices vary widely from species to species. Pine is cheap and might be sold by the board while oak is pricier and might be sold by the food. You can cut small pieces of stuff in the scrap bins and they will only charge you for the length you take.
As for using different woods for different things, it's mostly style when it comes to furniture. Some people like the look of cherry, so they buy cherry furniture. There are certain woods with specific uses. For example, southern yellow pine is used for decks because it can be pressure treated with chemicals that make it not rot, or get eaten by wood eating insects. It's also very stringy and not likely to crack. It can bend very far before breaking so it's perfect for the strength needed in decks that can hold large crowds of people during parties. Cedar is also used outside a lot because it has natural tannins which keep it insect and rot free without any paint or chemical treatments. If you ever see wood siding on a house that looks like shingles, it's most likely cedar. Some roofs are even made with cedar shingles because it holds up to the elements very well.
Sorry for the wall of text. I just found this subreddit and I like sharing knowledge on topics I know more about.
went to that link, found this: http://www.amazon.com/Sauers-Wood-Identification-Kit/dp/B003F0C9EW/ref=pd_sim_201_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=61vDejjpw3L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0VACTVP05EKQMBDBD5BW if you wanted to make your own i suppose this would be great!
I get my glue to 160. One thing that I find really helps is getting everything hot. After I press my glue soaked veneers for a day I re-prep them by doing the following:
1 - Spread glue on the toothed substrate
2 - put veneer face-down on glue soaked substrate
3 - Wet with water (spray bottle)
4 - Iron it until the veneer is uncomfortable to touch for longer than a few seconds
5 - Apply glue to veneer
6 - Peel it up, flip it, get it where I want it, and hammer it. Don't go crazy getting all the air pockets out. It's MUCH easier to touch them up after (like he does in video 2) than worry about breaking your glue bond by hammering partially set glue
Also if you want so low level of effort practice, order this. Good quality veneers, really cool species, and you don't need to cut them. They make interesting combinations for box bottoms and floating panel box tops if they come out nice too.
Gun smiths.
Are you going to be using a laser sight or a laser pointer?
Like buy a 4 segment rail and another picatinny thingy and mate the two things with epoxy or something. At a 90 degree angle.
Magpul 5 slot MOE rail section
Quick 3 minute install. costs about $6
https://imgur.com/a/4WI8ply
No, they homelink buttons don't require a subscription. They are just part of a standardized RF control system in the car. They can be "taught" to control many things that operation on RF, but mostly people just use their garage door with them. They won't natively control anything smartthings though, although you could get something like this and use homelink to trigger dry contacts, which would trigger zwave or zigbee switches.
They sell a universal receiver made for gates that had dry contacts that you can tie into a custom setup. One sec for link
Edit: here ya go
LiftMaster 850LM Universal Gate and Garage Door Opener Receiver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0071EYS9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Rv2ZDbK8A8ZVP
Get this (or the Liftmaster one):
https://www.amazon.com/Chamberlain-CIGBU-Internet-Gateway-Enabled/dp/B00B7CDSQ8
Get this sensor:
http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=11987
Load this smart app via the Smartthings IDE
https://community.smartthings.com/t/release-myq-lite-for-liftmaster-chamberlain/49150
Enjoy!
Not any opener... If you have one with digital signals over the wire to the opener instead of analog signals, it will not work. This is surprisingly a lot of newer openers. It would be any that have other buttons than the open/close button on the wall opener. (Like this one )
As long it was made after 1998 all you need is to upgrade the wall panel with this and it will be compatible. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B8BFG0O/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1SQ7AHQ56EE7X&coliid=I3IRD1MAAJ2IBA&psc=1
"The 888LM is compatible any LiftMaster, Chamberlain, Sears Craftsman garage door opener manufactured since 1998 with RED ORANGE or PURPLE learn button.
The 888LM is Not Compatible with Newer Security+ 2.0 garage door openers with a round YELLOW learn button and YELLOW Antenna.
Your existing remote controls and wireless keypad if your happy with them will also continue to work using the reciever in your garage door operator. There is no need to replace them.
When paired with the 828LM Internet Gateway, sold separately. You can control your garage operator with your smart phone, tablet or computer "
https://www.amazon.com/Whizzy-Wheel-Decal-Remover-Adapter/dp/B00FJF0O2K
Assuming this is vinyl, I use one of these for decal removal at work. I then use this product for any cleanup. With those, i can strip off commercial truck door signage in just a few minutes with no paint damage.
https://www.amazon.com/Wheel-Pinstriping-Removing-Diameter-Whizzy/dp/B00FJF0O2K
those will do the trick, just need to be careful so you dont burn the paint
i have that built into the pad that mounts on the wall - it defaults to about a minute and beeps beforehand. I am out of the country or else I would send a picture of the keypad. very similar to the one in the middle of this main picture - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Chamberlain-1-1-4-HP-Equivalent-Ultra-Quiet-Belt-Drive-Smart-Garage-Door-Opener-with-Battery-Backup-B970/301951467?MERCH=REC-_-NavPLPHorizontal1_rr-_-NA-_-301951467-_-N
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edit - found it - this is what i have - https://www.amazon.ca/LiftMaster-888LM-828LM-Retrofit-Package/dp/B00IPKPVCE/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=myq&qid=1559023256&s=gateway&sr=8-11
i'd change the myq for the gocontrol linear https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469114577&sr=8-1&keywords=go+linear
By "GoControl," I think you mean this? GoControl sells several Z-Wave accessories that are actually just rebadges of Linear, not just the garage door openers. :)
I have two of those, those mine are the "Iris" branded ones from Lowes (again, same manufacturer - Linear). They look like this in the app. Tap the green icon, they open and the icon turns yellow. Tap the yellow icon, they close and turn green. They can be controlled by SmartThings monitoring, CoRE, etc. There's actually a "Door Opener" device type that they register as.
Does that answer your question?
If you want something to work with the Wink Hub, you can go with a GoControl Z-Wave Add-on. https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU You can add it to any garage door you'd like. I installed mine, using a SmartThings hub, and it seems to work pretty well.
GoControl/Linear GD00Z-4 Z-Wave Garage Door Opener Remote Controller, Small, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M75TEIU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qQH4BbHC7CQTS
I install one of these every week or so. They work really well for modern openers.
Amazon had the garage door sensor but its now unavailable, they are the only seller currently, but we will have it available on Amazon Prime in a couple weeks. We have a few units coming in today so once we get the listing complete, it will be available there in our store.
We will have the other items as well, we ordered yesterday but it may be a week or two for them to get in, Linear is pretty slow shipping.
SmartThings Version 3 Hub (I have the Version 2 Hub...you will have to look around for this one):
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Generation-GP-U999SJVLGDA-Automation/dp/B07FJGGWJL/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989501&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=smartthings+hub+2nd+generation&psc=1
GE Z-Wave Plus On/Off Light Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Required-Works-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989582&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave+switch
GE Z-Wave Plus Dimmer Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Required-Works-SmartThings-14291/dp/B07361Y54Z/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989582&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave%2Bswitch&th=1
GE Add On Switch (if you have a 3-way or 4-way switch):
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-STANDALONE-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989718&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave+add+on+switch
ZigBee Motion Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F8ZHBLS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
ZigBee Door Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F956F3B/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
ZigBee Leak Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F951JDP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
ZigBee Outlet Plug (you will need to replicate your ZigBee mesh, I use to motion activate lamps, turn lamps on/off at sunset/sunrise, etc.):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F96JB63/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
Z-Wave Thermostat:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005EJ7YO2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
ZigBee RGB Landscape RGB LED Strips:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R1PB2ZY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
ZigBee RGB Lightbulbs:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073ZBYXKQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Z-Wave Deadbolt:
https://www.amazon.com/Kwikset-SmartCode-Electronic-SmartThings-featuring/dp/B004F1B24I/ref=sr_1_12?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990126&sr=1-12&keywords=z-wave+lock
Z-Wave Garage Door Opener:
https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990160&sr=1-4&keywords=z-wave+garage+door+opener
Sonos One Speakers (Great music, and talking through SmartThings):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074XN1LH3/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Amazon Echo Show (for Voice Control...an Echo Dot will work just fine too):
https://www.amazon.com/All-new-Echo-Show-2nd-Gen/dp/B077SXWSRP/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990254&sr=1-1&keywords=echo+show
That's about all I can think of at the moment.
If you are going to do this, do it in stages. Z-Wave and ZigBee are mesh networks...meaning that the reliability of the network gets much better the more devices you have. Also, with these mesh networks:
I see so many people complaining about how the Z-Wave or ZigBee devices don't work, when they are relying on too many battery operated devices.
For Z-Wave devices, choose Z-Wave Plus over Z-Wave...it's the newest standard, and has much better range.
In the US, Z-Wave operates in the 900 MHz spectrum and ZigBee in the 2.4 GHz spectrum. Personally, I "prefer" Z-Wave devices as there is a lot of "junk" in the 2.4 GHz spectrum right now. However, the ZigBee devices are operating reliably as I have a strong mesh setup (with non-battery operated devices).
Two great application for the Leak Sensors:
Great applications for door open/close sensors:
Great Application for Motion Sensors
The motion sensors I linked above are the new ones...the magnetically mount. What's cool is that the magnet is in the sensor, and it's strong enough to attach the sensor to a dry wall screw (no need to mount the adapter bracket).
I have the GoControl for my 2 garage doors. It works great and most importantly integrates with hubs and IFTTT (i prefer Stringify though). The MyQ does not release there API to work with other services from what I here. I use a Wink and story around the block is you can't even make Robots using the MyQ. However, 20 dollars is a steal esp. compared to 80.
Sorry for being so late, but if you have Z-Wave in your automation already, then Z-Wave garage door openers are under $100, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491329589&sr=8-1&keywords=ZWave+garage+door+opener. Is the one I have, it has sensors that tell you if it is open or closed, and then you can use your phone (via z-wave controller) to close/open it. Works well for me. With my z-wave controller (Vera), I have it setup to notify me if I am not home and the door is opened, or left open.
There is also various WiFi options, which also allow you to control it, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Chamberlain-MYQ-G0201-MyQ-Garage-Controls-Smartphone/dp/B00EAD65UW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491329677&sr=8-1&keywords=wifi+garage+door+opener. No personal experience with those, but if they support your opener, are probably a good option.
If DIY is more your thing, a Arduino and a simple switch on the track somewhere would work for notifying if it is open.
My cheap/old garage door opener (Genie screw drive) has a bunch of exposed screw terminals for switches. One terminal opens/closes the door, one terminal toggles the light. They will work with any pushbutton switch, so anything that could drive a relay would work.
The door position sensors are just open/closed switches as well, so it would be really easy to wire it to anything that has a few i/o pins.
... so yeah anyway just get something like this and check the compatibility list:
http://www.amazon.com/Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Garage-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU
All good man. There is this also. GoControl/Linear GD00Z-4 Z-Wave Garage Door Opener Remote Controller, Small, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M75TEIU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FxyTzb8594QSS
Good luck either way
Amazon has not allowed Alexa to open/close doors or to unlock doors due to safety and security concerns. There are some workarounds out there.
I use the linear zwave garage door opener:
https://amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU
There is a custom device handler made for it on SmartThings that allows you to open and close it with alexa. However, I have tell alexa to turn it on (open) or off (close). It does not support Alexa telling me the status of the door. I still have to use the Smartthings app for that.
Hi Mike! There used to be a 3rd-party device handler for Chamberlain MyQ openers, but it seems that it has been discontinued: https://community.smartthings.com/t/discontinuation-of-myq-connect-community-smartapp/47183
Another option is to use the GoControl unit that connects to your existing garage door opener: https://smile.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU. It has native integration with ST as well as options for third party device handlers that extend the functionality. The price on Amazon is a bit high right now, but I've seen it around $65 in the past. If you're not in any hurry, use camelcamelcamel.com to track the Amazon price and notify you when it decreases or hits a target price you configure.
I can't help much with the camera portion of your question, but I'm interested to see what others have to say as well. This is something I'm still deciding on also.
Ahhhh, I see. So to integrate with Wink I would neither either this...
http://www.wink.com/products/chamberlain-myq-garage-door-controller/
Or one of these?
https://smile.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1479394170&sr=8-3&keywords=go+control
I got the Linear Garage Door Opener.
Works well. Plugs in easily to existing garage door opener.
Be very careful with it though. I never include closing it in automations in fear of it closing down on a kid or pet.
It is also an IoT device that if hacked, it will allow bad guys to get in your garage.
I'd think those would both work (haven't used them), but given Wink recognizes them as garage door openers they will limit operations that let you schedule/trigger door openings.
However, since you have a MyQ opener, I wouldn't get the Chamberlain controller you linked; that's to convert non MyQ doors to MyQ. Your current opener already has MyQ, so if you go the Chamberlain/Liftmaster route, just get the Internet gateway others have listed.
... nor the GoControl. Those both have the door sensor that detects if door it open or closed; your MyQ opener already has that intelligence.
If I wasn't clear (or confused you), the Liftmaster/Chamberlain Internet gateway WILL integrate with Wink; Chambrlain/Liftmaster and Wink just place restrictions on what you can do with it security-wise. I think Wink places those restrictions on most, if not all devices it recognizes as a door opener. Alexa does, at least.
The MIMOlite, I've heard, will get you around that, because Wink doesn't know what it's actually controlling.
... but the MIMOlite, alone, doesn't provide a sensor to tell you if the garage is currently open or closed. A ZWAVE sensor designed to detect angular changes, such as this, would work (but I don't know if that one is supported by Wink)
So you're saying if I buy the MyQ Garage Door Opener for my new house, I can return this?
I've had decent success with these 12inx12inx3mm birch sheets I got off amazon. 45 sheets for $65 (these were down to $60 a while back).
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013NT3OAC/
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B013NT3OAC/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_60_of_7?ie=UTF8&dpID=41Kzr2zFjSL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_SL500_SR100%2C100_&refRID=0MX1HXF0SQPPK6SWQCCQ
45square feet for $50. This is the best deal around I could find so far. All the other places I've looked put the square foot price higher when shipping is added. I've bought stuff from woodpeckers in the past too.
This is the product link:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013NT3OAC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00
And here's some pictures from my last batch
http://imgur.com/a/8kHaj
If its a european frequency there's no chance of it working with a US hub. Period.
why not go with these:
http://www.amazon.com/NYCE-NCZ-3011-HA-ZigBee-Window-Sensor/dp/B00WTE61FI/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1465176632&sr=8-3-fkmr1&keywords=zigbee+open+close
they're maybe a little thicker but still very tiny
or this:
http://www.amazon.com/Z-wave-Window-Sensor-rechargeable-battery/dp/B01E0OMQR6/ref=pd_sim_421_7?ie=UTF8&dpID=3143ovC4LML&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR159%2C160_&refRID=01QQHKVCRGTKF7VPY6XC
and this is invisible on a door:
http://www.amazon.com/Recessed-Door-Sensor-ZW089-Aeotec/dp/B0151Z49BO/ref=pd_sim_421_5?ie=UTF8&dpID=31oLnDLu6ZL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL320_SR236%2C320_&refRID=01QQHKVCRGTKF7VPY6XC
as is this hinge sensor:
http://www.amazon.com/NYCE-NCZ-3010-2-HA-Door-Hinge-Sensor/dp/B01C3HFAV6/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1465176766&sr=8-3-fkmr0&keywords=zigbee+open+close+nyce+hinge
This is what you need:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0151Z49BO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_epMlxb1HFWVJB
recesses door sensor is my recomendation
http://www.amazon.com/Recessed-Door-Sensor-ZW089--Aeotec/dp/B0151Z49BO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1462661137&sr=8-3&keywords=ZWAVE+DOOR+SENSOR
Z wave recessed door sensor?
Half the cost at Monoprice.
the screen i was mentioning: https://www.amazon.com/Homitt-Magnetic-Screen-Heavy-Curtain/dp/B01HUZB17I/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=mesh+magnetic+screen&qid=1569666122&sr=8-5
Something like this will work with older motors.
https://www.amazon.com/Garage-NXG-100-Remote-Compatible-Openers/dp/B01J8JI9HY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1542736625&sr=8-4&keywords=alexa+compatible+garage+door+opener
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I have a new motor, and it came with wifi and app access built in.
https://www.amazon.com/Chamberlain-B970-Smartphone-Controlled-Ultra-Quiet-Battery/dp/B075CQ86ZV/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1542736729&sr=1-4&keywords=garage+door+opener
Nexx Garage Door opener. Has support with GH...eg. setup up routine so I don't have to ask to talk to Nexx Garage. Also their customer support was top notch when I had a question about compatibility.
NEXX Garage NXG-100 Nxg Remote Compatible Door Openers-Control Using Smart Phone, Amazon Alexa and Google Assistant Enabled Devices, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J8JI9HY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_htbJBb35YC8JN
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01J8JI9HY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522175507&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=alexa+garage+door+opener&dpPl=1&dpID=4192Yxuv6SL&ref=plSrch
This seemed good to me. Haven’t installed it yet. Not enough time for my hobby projects unfortunately.
All of the Top Customer Reviews on the Amazon product page are one star, with "DO NOT WASTE YOUR MONEY" as the central theme. Apparently this gimcrack isn't as "smart" as advertised.
If you are a diyer you could use a nodemcu(ESP8266) https://smile.amazon.com/KeeYees-Internet-Development-Wireless-Compatible/dp/B07HF44GBT/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=nodemcu&qid=1575090035&s=electronics&sr=1-4
+ quad relay board(https://smile.amazon.com/Huayao-Channel-Optocoupler-Arduino-Raspberry/dp/B07DN8DTRW/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=3+channel+relay&qid=1575090005&s=electronics&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyNzVXTkU1VFE4MkZKJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjMzMDI3MVczRDJDUzk2NzQ2UiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNDEwODgzMkgySFREVTBEU0VRJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==)
+ project box and some wires
Both the relays and the nodemcu power off 5v so you could just use a cell phone charging brick to power them. You could have it controlled via a lightweight webpage or you could just have the phone use REST API to send messages to trigger the open/closed/stop.
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EDIT: Or more simply, 3x https://smile.amazon.com/MHCOZY-Wireless-Switch-applied-control/dp/B0752P57ZG + ewelink app. Personally I am more of a fan of the DIY opinion as I like local control without phone home worries
Yes. You need three things:
An Apple TV 4k, iPad, or HomePod
One of these:
MyQ Smart Garage Door Opener Chamberlain MYQ-G0301 - Wireless & Wi-Fi enabled Garage Hub with Smartphone Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075H7Z5L8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FMbsDbWY8DV71
And either need to run homebridge 24x7 somewhere in your house on a computer, or get this:
LiftMaster MYQ 819LMB MyQ Home Bridge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RQVSY7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HObsDb3PB0G0S
here
To add more detail to what u/mwwalk pointed out, you can install homebridge (https://github.com/nfarina/homebridge) on a raspberry pi and use the homebridge-chamberlain plugin (https://github.com/caseywebdev/homebridge-chamberlain#readme). This is a lower cost alternative to purchasing the MyQ Home Bridge ($97 on Amazon) but requires a level of comfort in using an rpi and linux command line.
Raspberry pi homebridge helps to add non-HomeKit accessories into HomeKit. At some point in the past, Chamberlain/LiftMaster did not have a HomeKit option.
My garage door opener setup is not exactly the same as yours... I have a non-WiFi Chamberlain but added a MyQ Smart Hub (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075H7Z5L8) purchased on discount for $20 to add in WiFi capability.
I've linked in my Ring cameras, Plex, and other stuff as well, so this approach with rpi homebridge was greater value for the time, money, effort.
​
edit: fixed the link to the chamberlain plugin
Yes. This one works fine.
I bought meross. Couldn't be happier. Frequently available as low as $38 on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L5DPK8P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jsMmDbSQRT34A
Have you tried this one? You should be able to jump right from the switch even though they recommend from the opener itself.
meross Smart Wi-Fi Garage Door Opener Remote, APP Control, Compatible with Alexa, ... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L5DPK8P/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_NooVDbXWPEKA7
If this is your model, look at the bottom of page 17. You can buy a rolling code receiver (like this)and connect in place of the wall mounted button. Get something that can have additional remotes added, and mount on to the wall if you need that convenience.
You could wire a smart opener in here too, or DIY something with a Arduino or similar and NO relay that closes for a few hundred milliseconds when triggered, which will operate the motor too.
http://www.amazon.com/3M-Safety-Walk-Outdoor-2-Inch--180-Inch/dp/B0006HVKM4/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1410711685&sr=8-11&keywords=rubber+grip+tape
http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-7860519-Refinishing-2-Part-White/dp/B000PTSBKW
This stuff works well. I can't say for sure how it will work if you're only going to be refinishing only the area around the drain -- it might appear obvious to the landlord that you had to do the refinishing there because it will almost certainly appear whiter than the rest of the presumably oldish tub.
Here's the thing: if you tell the landlord, you risk him saying "I need to buy a new tub, and you have to pay for it." That might also include needing new tile too, because removing a tub probably means retiling around it. This will be expensive.
It might be best to try to use this refinishing stuff to hide it and hope the landlord doesn't notice. The landlord or you could also use this stuff to refinish the entire tub, but then you'll have a brand-new looking tub.
If you use this, make sure you first sand the areas that you're going to paint!
Look at this stuff, it's cheaper on Amazon but they have it at Home Depot for a little more. Works nicely when done fully and should work just as nicely as a patch to keep the peeling down. Just make sure to take out the drain cover first since the flipper might not have done it correctly.
I used https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-7860519-Refinishing-2-Part-White/dp/B000PTSBKW/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486332059&sr=8-1-spell
Lasted 2 years... if that.
I was using this stuff: (http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-7860519-Refinishing-2-Part-White/dp/B000PTSBKW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412731731&sr=8-1&keywords=rustoleum+tub+and+tile+paint) which requires bleaching as the first step. Just following directions, boss. Only issue is a distraction kept me from rinsing down a wall causing me to inadvertently mix the bleach still on the wall with the next step.
Use a 2 part finish because it will last a whole lot longer and generally be better. Something like this
https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-7860519-Refinishing-2-Part-White/dp/B000PTSBKW/
You can go to Home Depot or online and buy an epoxy finish for your bathtub, I did it for mine. You just have to sand down your tub first to make sure it’s smooth. Then you paint it, wait 6 hours, apply a second coat. And then let it sit for 24 hours. (If I remember correctly, it’s been about a year) and then it will be good as new! We also used it on a window seal in our shower to keep it from molding. epoxy paint
Take a look at this stuff, worked great on making our tub look new. You can probably just use it on those specific spots.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PTSBKW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Something like this will work: Rust-Oleum kit That's a link to Amazon just because it's easy to find on there. You can probably find a similar product almost anywhere that sells home improvement stuff. As with most any paint type thing, preparation is key. Get the tub as clean as possible and carefully follow the directions.
Where do you get the light weight fragile bricks online that should be in a forge? I bought these bricks below, and they suck. All they do is suck the heat out of the forge, and waste propane. The metal eventually gets hot and glows, but the bricks do not provide the "feedback" and do not get red hot like ones I have seen. http://www.amazon.com/Rutland-604-Products-Fire-Brick/dp/B000UEYZ4S?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
I use those myself ( assuming you mean this kind ), and they work pretty well. One suggestion: make them fit tightly, but keep in mind you WILL have to replace them if you're forge-welding/using borax flux. The borax builds up to a really gummy consistency and sticks to the firebricks. I haven't found a way to get it off of the bricks besides just replacing them. After a while that borax will end up building up on whatever workpiece you lay on it, and you'll have to brush it off often. So fit them tight enough to keep borax from dripping below them, but not so tight that you have to tear up refractory to get them out. Mine are oriented like this to prevent a gap.
If you're not forge-welding you don't need them.
> It's a concrete block, not sure if that changes anything
As /u/boredNRT said. Some people talk about concrete exploding, other people say they have used concrete for parts of their forge (usually solid fuel forge floors) for years with no issue. There is a lot of variation in concrete...
I have no direct experience so I can't say for sure. My guess is that it will disintegrate after enough thermal cycles. If/when it does, just buy fire brick instead.
> I want to make an axe head soon but I have a lot to learn first.
Tell me about it. I'm in year 2 of what looks like a 4 year plan to make a hammer :)
If you are intending to make an axe with a drifted eye, I think you will really struggle without a much larger anvil.
I have a Mossberg 590A1 (18" barrel / bead sight) with...
Loaded with Federal Tactical Law Enforcement 8-pellet 00 buckshot. I'm very happy with it.
Don't forget to practice frequently with whatever you end up choosing.
Copied from the album:
>Fantastic little light package. The reason I particularly like this kit is because the the flashlight houses its own charging circuit, so you just plug Micro USB in and you can charge it on the fly (off a phone charger), no need for something like a NiteCore charger.
>The overall size of this thing is tiny for how much light it puts out. It has three settings, with memory for the last one used when turned on, from 'blinding' to 'good enough' to 'decidedly dim, but bright enough to not trip over things'. I set it to the middle one. While it has a strobe mode, it's quite difficult to activate accidentally --requiring repeated rapid presses -- which is great for Nerf. I did have to pad the mount with a rubber band, as the flashlight is a smidge under the 1" diameter for the mount. That's fine, though, as it protects the finish of the flashlight from metal-on-metal contact. A polymer mount would be significantly lighter, and I might look to see if one is out there.
>The parts of this kit are as follows.:
>MagPul 5-slot MOE rail
>Off-set 1" Flashlight Picatinny Mount
>JetBeam EC-R16
I believe both the magpul AFG and VFG can mount to that handguard WITHOUT using rails... one of the perks. I know the VFG can for sure. I mount a flashlight on my handguard (I have the same one) and I use the tiny rail section and mount it on the side. Here is the rail I got: http://www.amazon.com/Magpul-MOE-Rail-Section-Black/dp/B003F6EMQO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421023661&sr=8-1&keywords=moe+rail
Kinda like this, assuming the hole spacing is correct...
Magpul MAG406-BLK MOE Polymer Rail Section, 5-Slot, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003F6EMQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_y0h0Db146TSVR
Yep, toss one of these on the side for the light, one in the bottom for the grip/bipod. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003F6EMQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6yjtybJNE8QMW
Would this http://amzn.com/B003F6EMQO work?
Where can I find a rail with those dimensions?
I went the upgrade route on my Chamberlain, I bought this to replace the wall unit opener in the garage: https://www.amazon.com/Liftmaster-Security-Control-Upgrades-Previous/dp/B00B8BFG0O
And this is the wired gateway required to interface with the network:https://www.amazon.com/LiftMaster-828LM-Internet-Gateway/dp/B005FT4N2M
Works perfectly with both Wink & Smartthings
Liftmaster internet gateway (for newer liftmaster openers)
MyQ MYQ-G0301 for just about anything else
​
Is this the same as the Liftmaster 828LM? I have a Liftmaster 8500 opener and their Internet gateway looks exactly the same. Can someone confirm?
828LM LiftMaster Internet Gateway https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005FT4N2M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_igkbzb4RDP38B
Never done it, but all you would need is a compatible garage door/gate receiver, something link this https://www.amazon.com/LiftMaster-850LM-Universal-Garage-Receiver/dp/B0071EYS9M
Would use that to trigger what every automation you wanted, depending on your automation controller, of course.
Is there usually any soldering required? I'm completely ignorant on stuff like this. It doesn't appear to be needed. Also need to purchase a power adapter. This is what I'm looking at:
http://www.amazon.com/Liftmaster-Universal-Garage-Opener-Receiver/dp/B0071EYS9M#Ask
Had the same unit and same problem. We had a garage door guy out and he replaced the signal receiver with something like [this.] (http://www.amazon.com/Liftmaster-Universal-Garage-Opener-Receiver/dp/B0071EYS9M/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1418933490&sr=1-1&keywords=garage+door+reciever) It only cost around $100 installed, but if your handy it looked pretty simple. Good luck
Updating my own post because I think I figured out a way.
They make garage door universal receivers (intended for driveway gates), which are basically N.O. relays that work with garage door openers. Example I can then connect that relay to a Z-Wave switch module, such as this, and that will allow the garage door relays to communicate via Z-wave with my home automation system. I haven't tried it yet, but seems feasible.
Link didn't work for me, but yes, the MyQ uses a hub. I think I have this one. It needs power and an ethernet connection, and needs to be close enough to the garage doors. The door opener might come with it?
*I found the item you linked, it specifically states hub not included.
I assume you're talking about this
I had this device and it did everything I needed. That $99 model wasn't out yet when I purchased mine.
edit. I believe my $50 device only worked with Chamberlain garage door openers that had built in MyQ technology that made it compatible. I think the $99 device makes virtually any garage door opener compatible.
I wanted them to update this one to home kit, benefits are it directly connects to your router and requires no additional tilt sensor.
I have been using it and works great with home-bridge and Home Assistant.
Is this different than the one at Amazon that is only $45?
Looks like per Chamberlain - myQ Home Bridge it'll work:
>Adds both smartphone control and HomeKit™ compatibility to:
>
>* LiftMaster and Chamberlain myQ-enabled garage door openers (has a myQ logo/no Wi-Fi logo)
>
>* LiftMaster MyQ Control Panel (model 888LM)
Note that you might be able to get even cheaper by getting an old liftmaster/chamberlain opener and a 888LM wall control and the home bridge.
I wouldn't be surprised if the 888LM works with other brands. (I'd check with a local garage door installer if they've tested this setup.)
Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!
Here are your smile-ified links:
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Haven’t tried it, but saw this
Whizzy Wheel Car Decal and Sticker Remover with Drill Adapter Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FJF0O2K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WMXjDbNQSV8ZH
I took my time gathering a the parts etc. Painting was a pain and not really my forte. The decals were under a previous paint job so I used this
Car Decal Removal Tool - Whizzy... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00FJF0O2K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
to strip the bike.
Worked awesome but made one hell of a mess. So I sanded and painted over a few weekends (at my GF's house) since I don't have the space for that in my suite. Took a few weeks to build everything back on the bike and add the electrical system (wire management OMG)
Pretty much everything was done in a 5'x8' storage space within my suite that I converted into a "garage" to maintain my bikes. Somehow I make it work, lol.
Whizzy Wheel Car Decal and Sticker Remover with Drill Adapter Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FJF0O2K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9JqmDbXMBJMVK
I've had really good luck with these. You can get much more aggressive without damaging the finish.
Color match can be a bitch of a job (and pricey to get it done right unless OP can get a deal on a vinyl wrap), if they threw chrome centre caps on and blacked out the lighting it could work well with the chrome since he has the gloss black wheels.
The chrome/white lighting just never looked right on anything but the white and silver trucks imho.
Debadge +1! Get some fishing line with a blow dryer to remove them, then power polish. I used this thingy to get any glue residue off: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00FJF0O2K/
Just as a point of comparison, I have a 2005 Craftsman garage door opener and just purchased this MyQ upgrade kit (this is not the generic one for any opener).
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IPKPVCE/
It works great, the MyQ app is very nice aside from having to sign back in after several days, and the integration with Wink has been flawless (compared to some of the other Wink features).
I can't remember the last time I've been as happy with a technology purchase. I didn't want to have to rig something together that required frequent maintenance, or have it not be integrated with the opener and require a sensor with a battery like the generic MyQ adapter, Wink Ascend, or some others.
It does seem Chamberlain is willing to partner with other companies to allow them to link into it such as Staples Connect is supposedly working on. Though if you want integration with a specific HA controller, obviously I wouldn't buy the kit until the integration exists. Most of these companies add features at a snail's pace.
If your asking how to add MyQ to your current garage door opener, you'll need this.
https://www.liftmaster.com/for-homes/Accessories/MyQ-Accessories/model-MYQPCK
I bought mine at Amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IPKPVCE
My comment was really targeted toward OpenHAB. If you're running Wink, I think you'd be better off getting one of these GoControl/Linear GD00Z-4 Z-Wave Garage Door Opener. Amazon reviews are pretty solid and Home Depot was selling them for use with Wink for a while. I believe it comes with a tilt sensor, which is probably easier to use than boogering a regular door sensor on like I did. Probably a solid bet. I would have bought one of these if OpenHAB supported the z-wave barrier class.
As far as the MIMOLite... I can't tell you for sure as I run OpenHAB, but it looks like it should work according to these links: post in reddit /r/homeautomation and Amazon review
I'm using a Go Control / Nortek Controls / Linear WADWAZ-1 to sense my garage door. I snagged one of the WNK01-21KIT kits from Home Depot on sale.
I've also got a Honeywell Ademco 958 overhead door contact on my other door that should work as the door contact listed in fortrezz's diagram linked in my previous comment, if you wanted to sort of wire it.
For Wink, by the time you buy both the mimolite and the door contact (wired or z-wave) you might as well just buy the go controls device and get the benefit of secured z-wave barrier class.
I looked into the GoCOntrol briefly and I'm not sure why I passed it by. I have other GoControl peripherals that I like. Is THIS what you are talking about, it is the same price as the Chamberlain setup.
Edit: I remember why i passed this up. I had read people were having issues with the sensor, it doesn't know that it is up or down just that the door moved so if for some reason the laser gets tripped you cannot tell that the door went back open during its attempt to close. This may be incorrect information, I'd love to hear your take. Also I bought the Chamberlain for myself, each of us has 1 large 2 car garage door.
>I don’t know what to do about the garage door as I can’t use MyQ.
I bought this it's an actual legit z-wave device. I'm trying to get away from things that use the cloud, just from a reliability standpoint.
I use the Linear GD00Z-4 Z-Wave Garage Door Opener Remote Controller with my SmartThings hub. Works perfectly.
Here's a well reviewed z-wave alternative.
You could look into a RaspberryPi and the Pi version of the HomeSeer controller software. If you have a little time the software plus a Pi only costs a little more than a SmartThings. Otherwise I use SmartThings and I have really liked it so far.
As far as switches if you do not mind mixing brands this is what I do. Anywhere I have a dimmer, a 3+ way switch, or have the need for scenes I use HomeSeer. If I just have a regular switch I don't need to do anything fancy with I use GoControl switches as they are a bit cheaper if you look at the other sellers.
For the garage I use GoGoGate because I wanted to ability to give others access. I have seen others on this sub use these GoControl Garage Openers with contact sensors to verify open/closed.
I would also look into doing fan control
Depending on the size of your house and how many switches you are replacing this could get you pretty close to your $1k budget. You may need to add cameras later on. Also in your future endeavors I would look into EcoBee/Nest for temperature control.
I have had this one for a fee months now and it works with SmatThings, but not Alexa for now. It works really well and can hookup to just about any garage door opener.
GoControl/Linear GD00Z-4 Z-Wave Garage Door Opener Remote Controller, Small, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M75TEIU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_b0G7ybRFZ6B0X
SmartThings then something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU
Depending on how handy you are with things, you can also semi-roll-your-own with one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/MIMOLite-Z-wave-Multi-Input-Output-Contact/dp/B00B6RZ7MM
Over on the smarttthings community there are several threads where people set this up (search MimoLite)
You can also use any zwave relay. Lots of good info on this over at SmartThings Community.
Once you have it working in the SmartThings, if it doesn't already appear as a switch to Google Home, you can make a virtual switch and then have a smartapp activate the door when the switch is pressed.
Personally, I made my own using an Arduino, a relay board, and a SmartThings "ThingShield" for arduinos. This was years ago before many ready-made z-wave options existed.
OK so my favorite accessory is, by far, the garage door opener and sensor system. It closes my door automatically at night if I forget and leave it open, and sends me notifications when it's left open during the day. Plus as I have the lights controlled, it turns on my main garage lights when I come home at night. https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU
Secondly, I know it's not a switch but I also love the Schlage connect lock. This was the first "smart" device I ever got, well before I had Wink. It's amazing as with remote start cars, and this, I now never have to touch my keys, and it works great for letting people in with temporary codes when you're on vacation. Plus when I go for a run I don't have to carry my keys. It integrates fantastically with Wink letting you set codes, lock door, change settings, etc. I actually only bought the Wink hub because of it since I wanted an easier way to program/control it (well, that and the fact that when Quirky went under Meijer was selling the hub for $5 and the controlled power strips for $10. No lie.) https://www.amazon.com/Schlage-Connect-BE469NX-Touchscreen-Deadbolt/dp/B00AGK9KOG/ref=sr_1_2?s=hardware&ie=UTF8&qid=1479481619&sr=1-2&keywords=schlage+keyless+lock
As for switches, I tend to prefer the Leviton ones as they are the cleanest looking, don't have obnoxious lights (like the GE ones) and are reasonably priced. I only have one Caseta switch, and while it works fine, I just don't know that I care for the style. (On a side note, the Caseta remotes can work for any Wink device if you set up shortcuts for the various buttons). The annoying thing with the GE switches is that you have to push up to turn it on and down to turn it off. While I know that sounds like a silly complaint since physical switches work that way, it's something you have to think about since it doesn't stay up or down, and instead is always in the middle. I have the same complaint with the separate buttons on the Caseta switches. This is another reason why I like the Leviton ones. Only one button which simply toggles the state.
Finally, all the Z-Wave switches work independently of the hub and will ALWAYS respond to your physical commands immediately, regardless of hub or no hub. They are always a physical switch first and remote second.
I did some home automation last year using a Wink Hub2 and bought $45 Z-Wave controllers for my garage doors that include tilt sensors so can tell if the garage door is open and get alerts. Plus it lets you control the garage door (and anything else connected to your Wink Hub) from your phone any place you have an internet connection.
Homelink on the car does better geofencing and the Wink will not auto open the garage doors for "security" reasons so they work really well together.
Bought a new smart garage door opener for about ten bucks, sold it for $60 on ebay. About $30 profit.
I originally was going to use it for myself, but I needs some sort of central hub that I don't have and didn't want to pay for. I would've listed it for $80 but it was missing the tilt sensor (I bought it at an overstock auction - I guess it must've been a return).
You can buy the GoControl/Linear GD00Z-4 Z-Wave Garage Door Opener
Those are compatible with Abode system. I bought one, integrated it with my Abode and now it can control my Liftmaster. It's been working great, I set up automatically closing after a few minutes and when alarm mode is changed to Home or Away.
There are some reviews saying that this controller only works for about a year and then quits, so I'd recommend buying the extra warranty (it was $10 bucks for 3 years on Amazon).
1/8" X 12" X 12" Baltic Birch Plywood Great for Laser, Cnc, and Scroll Saw. 45pc Woodpeckers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013NT3OAC?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
i read where someone used a recessed door sensor and put it inside where the deadbolt locks. when it's locked, the sensor is 'closed' and when unlocked it's 'open'.
like this thing: https://www.amazon.com/Recessed-Door-Sensor-ZW089-Aeotec/dp/B0151Z49BO
I’d love to see Ring certify wireless in door sensors like these. I have monitoring so it’s not an option, but for self monitored maybe someone can confirm if they work?
Aeotec Recessed Door Sensor Gen5, Invisible Z-Wave Plus security and open / close sensor, Battery powered https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0151Z49BO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IsahDbKZMR709
I bought these door sensors for my doors coming in from the garage. So now my lights in the stairs turn on whenever the door is opened and stays on for 3 minutes.
Aeotec Recessed Door Sensor Gen5, Invisible Z-Wave Plus security and open / close sensor, Battery powered https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0151Z49BO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LmIFAbH89XVBC
I can't believe no one has said this yet. It does need a HUB though...
If you already dabble in home automation or want to get started, you could hard-wire this type of fixture each of them, then install this recessed z-wave sensor. In this case you'd also need to get smart bulbs (I like Osram LIGHTIFY bulbs. You can get on/off only ones for $20). Then you'd configure your hub to turn on the lights every time the contact opens, and turn them off when it closes.
If you don't want visible contact sensors on your door you can also use the Aeon Labs Recessed Door Sensor (ZW089-ZWUS). This requires you to drill a hole in the edge of the door and the door frame.
https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW089-Recessed/dp/B0151Z49BO
A lot of the regular sensors have options for this. I actually haven't done this myself (my door is a bit of a problem for this sort of solution). Here are some I found (not affiliate links):
​
https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Recessed-Invisible-security-Battery/dp/B0151Z49BO
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Attaches-Existing-32563/dp/B01KQDIUAW
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=15268
If you're a homeowner, I would recommend going with a recessed sensor. https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW089-Recessed/dp/B0151Z49BO
Otherwise, I would probably install the magnet (small piece) on the interior lip of the molding assuming the door has enough clearance to pass, then stick the sensor (big piece) to the door. I'm not really sure how the vibration from the door would affect life and longevity of the the sensor, though.
I had similar issue with old style "fluted" casing. I went with these traditional sensors. https://www.amazon.com/Recessed-Invisible-security-Battery-powered/dp/B0151Z49BO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1520789443&sr=8-3&keywords=aeon+door+sensor
I'm using ecolink sensors, thinking of buying these. I just don't ever want to have to fuss with changing out batteries ever again, whether 1 month of 5 months or a year later. Just want to wire them and be done with it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0151Z49BO
You could try one of these Magnetic Screen Door. I don't know about your dog, but my dogs don't generally push their way through anything. A barrier is a barrier to them. There are kinds that stay closed via magnets and even Velcro. Something to look into. And it'd be easy for you to just walk in and out when needed
One thing that I found was something like this mesh screen door but the problem is that everything I find is pet-friendly instead of pet-proof. Anyone know of a product similar to this that can stop pets?
>But if I did leave it open, it's not the kind of mistake one makes more than once
Sadly, not true. After never leaving a garage door open in my life, I moved into a new house and left the garage open three times in two weeks. Sigh.
I have a Z-Wave automation system, so I put an open/close tilt sensor on the door, and next step is a remote open/close control for the door.
MyQ is my preference for an opener since I have to replace my garage door opener anyway, but if your existing controller is not compatible with MyQ there is a third party device called NEXX Garage Door Opener which is a little more expensive but supposed to be compatible with most openers.
I bought a NEXX Garage door opener and it works both with google home and nest via IFTTT. NO monthly fees and it was worked flawlessly since I installed it. Took me about 30 mins to install. It even has a safety pin that google home needs to open so if I leave a window open someone can’t tell “hey google open the garage”.
NEXX Garage NXG-100 Nxg Remote Compatible Door Openers-Control Using Smart Phone, Amazon Alexa and Google Assistant Enabled Devices, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J8JI9HY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5AaPAb9TKX3W7
I use Nexx Garage door opener. You command would be, "Alexa, Ask Nexx Garage to open door one." Alexa would ask you for your 4-digit PIN, to which you respond and then the door opens. You can set a virtual proximity fence that allows the door to open upon your arrival. It will alert you if your phone is away from the home for longer than a certain period of time and the door's still open. At that point you can just tap the button to shut the door. I'm happy with it because I rarely use the voice-activated function. I was more concerned with being able to remotely close it and being able to see the status. The proximity open was just a bonus. It always feels cool to come home.
You can open and close the door with your voice right now. Here's my review I posted on Amazon (other reviews):
It works, so I give it 3 stars. But it’s got a lot of problems.
The iOS app is quirky so anything other than opening and closing the door is weird and confusing to figure out. Giving my wife access to controlling the doors with her app requires figuring out totally undiscoverable UI. And it doesn’t look like iOS or Android so I don’t know what they’re going for design-wise. Fortunately, the Google Home integration is pretty good so I don’t use the app much. I can open a door by asking Google Home to do it while I’m walking through the kitchen and out to the garage and it’s open by the time I need to drive away.
The Apple Watch app doesn’t work at all. It always says it is “authorizing” but never gets authorized. They call it a “Beta” so maybe they’ll get it working eventually but it’s been this way for a year or longer.
The magnet and sensor have awkward designs and need to be so close to each other it’s difficult to mount them without the garage door breaking them. On one door I could mount them on the vertical side of the door so the magnet slides into place next to the sensor so there’s no risk of them hitting each other. But I had to mount them on the top of my other door and the angle the door comes down makes the clearance very tight and one open/close too many and they hit each other and snapped the sensor off. I broke 3 of the 4 pieces on the 2 Nexx Garage kits and had to mount them in a makeshift way with strong (3M VHB) adhesive tape and will probably be remounting them every 6 months as the adhesive wears out. It’s good that they fail safe – it makes you think the door is open when it’s not rather than the other way around.
They give you only enough wire for a straight line connection between the sensor mount location and the opener. I couldn’t do a straight line on one of my doors so I had to splice in wire to lengthen it. Wire is cheap, they should provide a longer length.
The double-sided tape on the unit for attaching it to the opener is weak and in just a few weeks one of mine came off and was dangling by the wires. More tape to the rescue.
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This works amazingly well:
https://www.amazon.com/Garadget-Smart-Garage-Door-Controller/dp/B01KUZ2JPS
Garage door controller - works standalone and with most home automation controllers.
Most old openers have the option to wire a momentary push button on a wall, to open the door. You can parallel in a dry contact from a Wi-Fi IOT sensor like this: https://www.amazon.com/Channel-Inching-Self-locking-Wireless-Control/dp/B0752P57ZG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1519067560&sr=8-4&keywords=Inching+smart+switch
Just add any tiny 5 VDC power brick for power and wire a dry contact across the push button contacts. Downside is this isn’t HomeKit.
Alternatively you could use a HomeKit plug like iDevices, iHome or Eve Energy. But you’d have to wire a 120 VAC relay to the plug and wire a dry relay contact across the momentary switch. Downside is this isn’t a momentary output (plug is On or Off), So in operation you’d have to give it an On and then an Off without any feedback on what happened. This is OK but not ideal. I’d add contacts or even a camera for open/close state confirmation.
I’m adding the first option to my home as a backup way to get into my garage. This winter I got locked out as front door latch froze up and I was on foot ( no opener). But it was a comedy of errors.
Wow thank you so much, this was very helpful. :)
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If i am understanding you correctly, this is the new diagram (https://imgur.com/a/Y6XohGa).
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One question I had was can I use the existing red and black lines to power both the original unit and the buck converter/bridge rectifier/wifi relay? Would i just cut off some of the plastic coatings of the black and red wires somewhere in the middle and wrap the other wires around the two?
My thinking is that this would effectively make two "ends" for the wires that i can use to power the existing circuit board and the buck converter/bridge rectifier/wifi relay.
>https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0752P57ZG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Hyk1BbSPGZBWT
The whole web interface got scrapped because developer quit on me, it works but i wasnt happy the way it looked or the way it worked just in case heres the link:
Dashboard | GPIO Server
EDIT: They are private, when i get home i will make them public
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I also uploaded the code im currently using for Homebridge (Siri Video Intercom), Home Assistant (tablet mounted interface), Telegram (voice recording of visitor) for another reddit user here it is:
Smart Telegram Intercom
My first time actually sharing my code so just send me a DM if you need any explaining or help setting up
I have one of these that can handle "inching" and check it with my Wyze camera. Semi redneck engineered, but I can check if we forgot the door or the kids left it open. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0752P57ZG/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_U3oQDb8CAV7YV
Ok cool, so there really isn't anything out there that I was missing. Something like this should work, too, right?
MHCOZY WiFi Wireless Smart Switch Relay Module for Smart Home 5V 5V/12V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0752P57ZG/
I would have to use the eWeLink app on my phone and IFTTT to make things talk to one another. I wish there was a Smart Life (Tuya) dry contact sensor or switch to use. I already have a bunch of their smart plugs and would have rather used the same Smart Life app that I am used to.
I use this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0752P57ZG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and it has worked amazing with my garage door and google/alexa and its only 13 dollars
Do you know how to tell which devices are compatible with this firmware? I have one of these, I'd like to get native compatibility with:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0752P57ZG
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This is the one I bought on prime day for $25, pretty awesome so far, you can even set schedules and alerts. App Pretty user friendly and it was easy to set up.
Looks like it dropped to $80
MyQ Smart Garage Door Opener Chamberlain MYQ-G0301 - Wireless & Wi-Fi enabled Garage Hub with Smartphone Control
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075H7Z5L8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kia2BbS5X0XZ8
They had them on sale at walmart, Amazon & Best Buy this week for $30 and we picked one up for a friend of mine and worked instantly.... maybe its a faulty device.
https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Garage-Opener-Chamberlain-MYQ-G0301/dp/B075H7Z5L8/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=3PYXX79JVZY06&
I bought the MyQ on prime day this year, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075H7Z5L8, It works as expected but it doesn't integrate with nest, It does with Google but you can only open it through the app not voice command, you can close it with a voice command though.
M using this. It’s very simple to setup.
MyQ Smart Garage Door Opener Chamberlain MYQ-G0301 - Wireless & Wi-Fi enabled Garage Hub with Smartphone Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075H7Z5L8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PbDSDb4K2K0JZ
What about Meross?
https://www.amazon.com/meross-Smart-Control-Compatible-Assistant/dp/B07L5DPK8P/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=meross&qid=1563418189&s=gateway&sprefix=mero&sr=8-4
I bought and installed this for my dad. Highly recommend - you can view status and control door from your phone. Easy all around. I'm sure there are similar front door locks to do similar.
meross Smart Wi-Fi Garage Door Opener Remote, APP Control, Compatible with Alexa, Google Assistant and IFTTT, No Hub Needed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L5DPK8P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YuDxDb7RVMM2N
https://www.amazon.com/meross-Smart-Control-Compatible-Assistant/dp/B07L5DPK8P
This was recomended above and I am thinking of getting it.
Meross garage door opener
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L5DPK8P/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_CVe2Db0HKQ8AK
This doesn't help with your question but, if this thing goes on sale this week (Amazon Prime Days), then replace the MYQ https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L5DPK8P
The idea that Chamberlain will charge to use something free like IFTTT is just ridiculous.
Meross Smart Wifi Adapter https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B07L5DPK8P/ is a whole lot better than Myq g0301. It's currently $20 OFF applied at checkout too, so it's $30 total with Prime. Scroll down to the bottom of this article for the comparison why you shouldn't use Chamberlain, mostly because of the multiple hoops and delays the signal has to jump through.
The solution.
You can tint it with colored acrylic. Paint with some of the base and mix some (blue?). No more twitching!
I know it's a rental, but if you're feeling up to it, Rust-Oleum has those Tub refinishing kits for $25. Yellow tub gone. http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-7860519-Refinishing-2-Part-White/dp/B000PTSBKW
Here's one http://m.smarthomedb.com/product/ecolink-garage-door-tilt-sensor/p372
Also this zwave garage door opener works with wink GoControl/Linear GD00Z-4 Z-Wave Garage Door Opener Remote Controller, Small, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M75TEIU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_CeaEybE8ENTP1
I used one of these before I got a MyQ garage door opener. Works great with Wink and Alexa.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M75TEIU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_qa7Jwhq518Pgd
As far as light bulbs, there are lots of places to start. If you want to replace bulbs themselves, look at LIFX or Hue. They both offer either color or white bulbs and an API that lets you dim/adjust color/etc via your phone.
Alternatively you can replace your light switches with ZWave switches (about $40ea) that you can hook to a ZWave controller (ZWave is a wireless protocol that a lot of HA devices use. Zigbee is another).
As far as a ZWave controller, I still personally like SmartThings ... although there are other options. OpenHAB+Aeon ZWave USB stick is more of a 'roll your own' setup. Wink, Abode, and Vera are other options.
As for your garage, once you have SmartThings or another option listed above, this will do the rest of the work for you:
http://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU
For #3, Sonos is the most expensive but best option.
For #5, You can go Nest, Ecobee, or a number of the great ZWave thermostats if you have a Zwave controller.
Baltic birch plywood.
Here is what I buy:
3 mm 1/8" X 12" X 12" Premium Baltic Birch Plywood – B/BB Grade - 45 Flat Sheets By Woodpeckers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013NT3OAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_haTVBbZ6D2P64