Emergency Ladder. Hang out a window. Example

Rust-Oleum 7860519 Tub And Tile Refinishing 2-Part Kit, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PTSBKW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2jm1Bb4AAERTQ

It's window plastic. Used for older windows to insulatate. Keeps warm air in and cold drafts out

It's shrink film that you put around older windows to keep the heat in during winter.

E.g. http://smile.amazon.com/Duck-281506-10-Window-Insulator-420-Inch/dp/B002GKC2GW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421077862&sr=8-1&keywords=window+plastic

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-Windows/dp/B00002NCJI

This is basically a plastic film that you put over your window wells with double sided tape.. then you use a hair dryer to shrink/tighten it...

I've used them during Winters in DC and they've made a big difference..

I'm going to approach this from a personal safety perspective. I'm unsure if you are looking for personal safety tips or a more grand view of what can be done as a community to improve safety. But I strongly believe everyone needs to take a personal responsibility for their own safety.

• Buy a gun. Learn how to use and become proficient with it. New Mexico is a shall issue state for concealed carry permits, just need to take the training class and pass the background check. If you don't like or are uncomfortable with the prospect of carrying a gun, I would still at least recommend a shotgun for the home.
  
• Walk with a sense of purpose and maintain an awareness of your surroundings at all times. That means face not buried in a phone screen, headphones on, etc. Keep your head on a swivel, constantly be taking in your surroundings, learn how to discreetly assess other people in your vicinity. Always have a plan for escape, evasion, or defense.
  
• Never find yourself stuck fiddling for your keys in a parking lot or outside your home. Always have your keys or key fob ready and minimize the time you're standing outside your car or house in a potentially vulnerable situation.
  
• Install a tracking device in your car. If it is stolen, recovery becomes easier. Available from your mobile carrier for a nominal monthly fee.
  
• Doors locked and windows rolled up at all times in your car.
  
• Never leave the car running or warming up unattended. I hope EVERYONE in Albuquerque knows this by now.
  
• Front and rear dash cams in your car. Albuquerque drivers are awful and this is very cheap insurance in the event of an incident.
  
• Drive a manual transmission car if you are able to. It's a dying skill and a hilarious number of car thieves and carjackers have been thwarted by the elusive manual transmission.
  
• Park your car in the garage if you have one. Garage full of crap? Rent a dumpster or get a friend with a pickup truck and get to cleaning. Cars last longer and look nicer when garage kept and it's sooo nice to get into a car that hasn't been sitting and baking in the summer sun or freezing in the dead of winter.
  
• In that same vein, enter and exit your home from the garage if you have one. It's a great buffered entry and exit system. Be in your car before you open the garage, and close the garage after you pull in and before you get out of your car. You are never leaving yourself exposed outside this way. I NEVER enter or exit my house through the front door. The only time my front door is ever open is for delivery people.
  
• When stopped in traffic, leave yourself an escape route. Select good lanes for escape and leave enough room from the car in front of you to be able to drive your way out of trouble if needed. Carjackings are unfortunately becoming a more and more common thing in Albuquerque, don't leave yourself vulnerable to someone approaching by foot on the street or trying to box you in with another vehicle.
  
• Keep the interior of your car clean. No belongings in sight, no change in the cupholders, phone chargers, electronics, nothing at all that could possibly entice someone cruising a parking lot and looking into car windows. Anyone peering into your car should see... nothing. If you drive an SUV or hatchback with an open cargo area, invest in a cargo cover and use it.
  
• Doors and windows closed and locked at all times in your home. If you need to keep windows cracked for a swamp cooler or whatever, install some sort of stopper to prevent the window from being opened all the way.
  
• Keep all shades and blinds closed, especially at night. You can see inside of a house from a very long distance away at night. No sense in showcasing your stuff and people do cruise through neighborhoods at night, making notes and looking for easy scores. Deny them that ability.
  
• Get a dog, or two. Train them to bark at people knocking on the door, then to go to their crates or sit calmly with a command if it's someone you're expecting. And besides, dogs are awesome.
  
• Put a no soliciting sign on your door. Surprisingly effective at getting rid of a lot of the door to door riff raff, a large portion of whom are really just people trying to case houses. It's low hanging fruit, but actually works fairly well.
  
• If you have a two story home or otherwise live on an upper floor, have an escape ladder. In the event of a home invasion or something more mundane like a fire, it can be the difference between life and death.
  
• Install a monitored, well signed alarm system and cameras. Don't be that guy on the street whose house is not protected by and showing signage for an alarm system. Guess whose house is going to be first to be broken into? The goal here is to not make your house impossible to break into, just to make it harder than the other guys house.
  
• Maintain the illusion of someone being home even when you're not. That means leave some lights on, leave some music playing, or get one of those nifty TV simulators.
  
• Check your home exterior lighting. Make sure it all works. Install the brightest lights that won't piss off your neighbors and leave them on 24/7.
  
• Don't leave anything of value in your backyard or any implements that could facilitate entry into your house. No power tools, garden implements, toys, ladders, anything. Leave nothing in your backyard that could even remotely entice someone to hop over the fence or wall and help themselves. That stuff belongs stored in the garage or securely locked in a shed.
  
• Trash bins secured where people can't get to them. Shred important documents or anything with personally identifying info before throwing it away.
  
• Take the time to get to know your neighbors a bit. If your neighborhood is active on Nextdoor or has a Facebook group, join it. A neighborhood where the neighbors talk to and look out for each other is a safe neighborhood.
  
• Speaking of social media, don't telegraph your actions, locations, or the fact you're going to be away on vacation for a week. In this social media addicted world, this is easier said than done, but think before you post something that could be potentially compromising from a safety or security perspective. Turn off location embedding on your smartphone's camera.
  
  Remember, it's not the job of the police to prevent crime, it's their job to respond to crime. When seconds count and your life is potentially on the line, the police are minutes away. It's up to you to be proactive about your safety and have the means and ability to defend yourself.

Oh, ok! One of the easiest ways to winterize drafty windows is to get the plastic shrink-wrap stuff at a hardware store, something like this.

I use the thin film plastic window insulation kits every winter, I love them. They are great because the seal out all the tiny cracks in old windows and create a psuedo-double pane window. I would start there because they are much cheaper than curtains.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-Windows/dp/B00002NCJI

Is it just called "winter window plastic?" (Just want to check before I go looking for it. Last time I asked for anything specific, I had to go through a couple of alternate names AND describe the item before they figured out what I was talking about).

EDIT! A post below linked the stuff. Oh derp is me. Link courtesy of /u/DrewFlan

I've never liked the look of these but the second year in our RV I finally decided to plastic the windows. We went through the blankets and blinds and what not which helped. Once I sealed them up though, it was a huge difference in draft. It's cheap and easy to do. Get them at walmart, lowes etc.. I'm telling you, night and day difference.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-Windows/dp/B00002NCJI

Saved this comment from a fella in micro grocery to start my set up

These are suggestions - feel free to ask more questions if you need anything.

Read this guide - I wish I had had something like this when I started: http://homegrow-pro.com/quantum-board-build-grow-tent/ Read this guide too: http://homegrow-pro.com/the-3x3-grow-tent-setup/

Essentials

• ⁠Grow Tent: 3 ft x 3 ft x 6 ft is the size you'd probably want. This is the one I bought: https://www.amazon.ca/VIVOSUN-Hydroponic-Observation-Window-Growing/dp/B01DXYMKIO
• ⁠Light: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Kingbrite-240W-samsung-lm301h-288v3-quantum_62120261175.html?spm=a2700.7803241.0.0.31d73e5fhFxf6a This light is a fantastic LED quantum board that is very easy to assemble - I got the 3000K one with the epistar
• ⁠Fabric Pots: Head to Amazon and grab yourself a 5-pack of 7 gallon fabric pots https://www.amazon.ca/VIVOSUN-Gallons-Thickened-Nonwoven-Handles/dp/B00TF9E9PY/
• ⁠Also get yourself a saucer (you can get this at any garden store) and a pot elevator for each pot (pot elevator example: http://amazon.ca/Gro-Pro-725675-Level-Elevator/dp/B01J37FHF8/)
• ⁠Soil: Get yourself a bail of Pro Mix HP with mycorrhizae (it's cheap, reliable, and hard to overwater) from Canadian Tire, Rona, any store really and get also a bag of earthworm castings. Cover the bottom of your fabric pot with the castings (2-3 inches deep) https://www.homehardware.ca/en/20l-organic-worm-castings/p/5025712
• ⁠Nutrients: Gaia Green Dry Amendments (All Purpose and Power Bloom) Mix the All Purpose in with your Pro-Mix HP and then top dress your "soil" every month, changing it to Power Bloom during flowering https://www.canadiangardensupply.com/gaia-green-all-purpose-4-4-4.html https://www.canadiangardensupply.com/gaia-green-power-bloom-2-8-4-power-bloom-2-8-4-2kg.html
• ⁠Ventilation: Get the AC Infinity Cloudline T4 - it's absolutely worth it. Then purchase a 4-inch carbon filter and 4 inch tubing from Amazon (branding doesn't matter for these two things) https://www.amazon.ca/AC-Infinity-CLOUDLINE-T4-Ventilation/dp/B06ZXWN3BG https://www.amazon.ca/AC-Infinity-Dual-Layer-Aluminium-Ventilation/dp/B071LHCFZ8 https://www.amazon.ca/VIVOSUN-Australia-Charcoal-Pre-filter-Included/dp/B01DXYMBU6
• ⁠Timer: You can go cheap on this, but also consider a smart timer (like a Wemo) https://www.amazon.ca/Insight-Switch-Enabled-Compatible-Amazon/dp/B00EOEDJ9W
• ⁠Seeds: Jahseeds.ca - Canadian breeder, amazing beans, amazing price! Go with feminized seeds for your first round. https://jahseeds.ca/shop?olsPage=t%2Ffeminized-seeds

Extra accessories

• ⁠Pruning shears (seperate ones for trimming live plants and ones for harvesting) https://www.amazon.ca/Pruning-Gardening-Straight-Stainless-Precision/dp/B076HL5JJM
• ⁠a lighter (for sanitizing)
• ⁠a set of tweezers, for planting your sprouted seed
• ⁠some garden gloves
• ⁠rope ratchets for your lights
• ⁠zips ties for protecting things
• ⁠binder clips (for low stress training)
• ⁠plant ties (soft rubber and wire kind)
• ⁠watering can
• ⁠two pairs of measuring spoons for dry amendments
• ⁠a clip on fan and rotating fan (for air circulation over and under the canopy)
• ⁠markers and a pack of tag plant markers for identifying plants
• ⁠soil moisture https://www.amazon.ca/Soil-Moisture-Sensor-Meter-Hydrometer/dp/B014MJ8J2U
• ⁠paper towels (for germination)
• ⁠Bucket Head Wet Dry Vacuum Powerhead Lid for 19 Litre (5 Gal.) Multi-Use Buckets great for gathering up the excess water and tipped soil) https://www.homedepot.ca/product/bucket-head-wet-dry-vacuum-powerhead-lid-for-19-litre-5-gal-multi-use-buckets/1000666690
• ⁠3 five gallon buckets (1 for the buckethead vacuum and 2 for extra water reservoirs) and two lids
• ⁠3 surge protector power bars
• ⁠Various AC power extension cables
• ⁠1 trellis net (for ScrOG training)
• ⁠USB microscrope (used to check the trichomes at harvest - if you want you can also get an adapter so it plugs directly into your smartphone, as opposed to plugging it into a computer) https://www.amazon.ca/Jiusion-Magnification-Endoscope-Microscope-Compatible/dp/B06WD843ZM
• ⁠62% Boveda packs for curing
• ⁠Mason jars for curing and storage
• ⁠hanging rack for drying (you can substitute this for a hanger and some plant ties)
• ⁠Duct tape

It's a little more expensive at the start, but this setup will pay for itself within two harvests. With this setup you can expect to yield between 8 to 12 oz every run, once you grow accustomed to the cycle.

You're saving some dollars, but your method isn't as efficient as 3M window plastic. I've used that stuff before and it's great. I'd rather spend a few extra bucks to get better heat retention, plus ya know, I enjoy being able to see out my windows and have that warm natural light come in. Since you aren't getting as much sunlight, how much extra are you using electric lights? In my opinion the 3M kit is the more frugal option.

You can't use insulating film?

It's called window insulation film, and sounds like you really need it!

You attach a sheet of plastic to the inside of the window frame using double-sided tape. Then you heat the film using something like a hair dryer so that it becomes more rigid and finishes the seal.

The stuff is sold online and of course and all the major home-improvement stores, here's an example:

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-5-Window/dp/B00002NCJI

Its a kit like this: https://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-5-Window/dp/B00002NCJI

​

You attach it with the tape then use a hair dryer to shrink it.

Okay, I got this.

G4Free 40L backpack - $18.99


Paria Sanctuary Sil Tarp - $79.99


Polycro ground sheet - $7.98


Sleep pad - $16.79


Down throw - $31.95


Ultralight, summer set up straight from Amazon for about $150.


edit: oops, you said no tarp. You could add the bug net for $65 and be at ~210 for an ultralight, modular set up. Could also subtract the polycro sheet and save a few bucks if you buy the inner net.

1. While you shouldn't replace your windows mid-winter, you can put plastic over them. This is very common in the midwest.
   
   Here's an example: http://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-5-Window/dp/B00002NCJI
   
   This can make a huge difference if you do a good job and blowdry it nice and tight.
   
   
2. At night, use an electric blanket. Much more efficient than heating all the air in the room.
   
   
3. Don't cheap out on your heat so much that a pipe bursts! That's more expensive to clean up than any heating bill.

I would tell the poster to get a fire escape ladder, but no one should remain in that apartment long enough for a ladder to arrive by mail!

I bought this off Amazon and haven't had any problems.
https://smile.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU

here are tips i can add to the pile; get an accurate remote thermostat or humidistat for your window A/C units.

http://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8

thermostats built into most A/C units are cheap, inaccurate and cycle your unit on/off unnecessarily.

what i do is plug an A/C rated appliance extension cord into this thermostat, then my A/C into the extension cord so the distance between the A/C and the thermostat is now across the room. this separate thermostat helps keep your A/C unit from cycling too much by moderating the temperature where you actually are in the room.

when you plug your A/C into this thermostate, set the A/C thermostate on lowest and fan on always. that way when the remote thermostate goes on the A/C will always be on Cool+Fan no matter what the temperature is.

some new A/C units have temperature sensing thermostat built into the remote control that you keep accross the room from the A/C unit window, so look for this feature when you are buying a new window unit as it should help you be more comfortable at higher ambient temperatures without your A/C cycling too much;

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036WTWCQ (i do not own this A/C, i just link it as an example)

.

if you really want to save money on A/C, you could set your unit to go on/off based on HUMIDITY, not temperature. to do that you will need to buy (and apply the same way as the above a remote thermostat);

http://www.amazon.com/DAYTON-1UHG2-Dehumidifier-Control-Plug/dp/B001OLVNU0

so when the room Humidity gets uncomfortably above 50%, only then will you let the A/C kick on more for it's dehumidification ability, then it's cooling power. once the air is lower in humidity you should be fine with nothing more than a box fan to circulate air against your skin for cooling.

.

if you live in a dry heat zone, combine a fan with a evaporative wick humidifier. as the water evaporates it takes heat energy out of the fan blown air and moderately cools the room. the added humidity will also make you feel more comfortable in the dry air. this approach is commonly known as a desert cooler. evaporative wicks can last all season if you use a capful of bacteriostatic solution in the water. to clean a wick, simply allow it to run dry for a few hours.

http://www.amazon.com/821-000-Digital-Control-Evaporative-Humidifier/dp/B0000D8EJZ

Yes! This was a total budget saver! Those photobooth rentals are crazy expensive. We used a simple PVC pipe frame like this one. Now, thankfully we were very lucky to have an amateur photographer friend with a tripod (that we put our iPad mini on) and 4 clip lights like these. We used thick cheap curtains around 3.5/4 sides. We then used a fun (but also cheap!) red ruffle curtain for the backdrop. I DIYed the floating hearts using construction paper, a heart-shaped hole punch (thank you 40% coupon at Michael's), and fishing line. Here's a good tutorial. We also put up one line of string lights to give it a fun twinkle. Lots of plugs, so be sure you have an extension cord! A friend had some photobooth props that we could borrow, but really, you can find those for super cheap if you need to. In terms of actually taking the pictures, we used the timer effect on the iPad camera to delay the shot a few seconds, and then I just posted all the pics to facebook later. Our guests had a lot of fun with it!

> While I can keep teh heat at 68, its costing me $300 a month in gas bills to do so, so I'm asking if the landlord is responsible for maintaining a less leaky building.

Unfortunately, no.

Did they provide you with average utility bills? I believe this information is required (but if they didn't give it, and you didn't ask, you might be SOL). If they did, and they are drastically different, you might have a bit of an argument there. If you signed the lease and they told you the heat never costs more than $100 a month and it is costing you triple, you might be able to convince them to lower your rent.

>I already spent $150 on insulation material. The window film isnt cheap.

How many windows do you have? The film should be about a buck a window for largish windows If you have a huge 3br+ place with a ton of windows and exterior walls, $300 isn't actually a crazy gas bill.

If you can see light coming from the doors, there is more non-professional work you can do.

Finally, how long have you lived here? Are you sure you are paying actual bills and not some sort of estimated bill? Are you sure your gas/electric is actually metered to only your own unit? Wouldn't be the first time someone discovered that their gas bill was also paying for common area heating, or to heat the building's hot water or something.

Sous Vide EQUIPMENT is WAY overrated. It has finally started to come down in price, but honestly, you can sous vide with a $30 temperature controller and a thrift store slow cooker (which, honestly, most people already have). I get excellent results with that exact setup.

I've seen people get great results with a Styrofoam ice chest, a thermometer, and tea kettle on the stove. They were able to maintain the temp within a few degrees by just checking once an hour.

To answer the obvious first question: Yes, I'd take it out again.

Pack list

Tarp

Fellow canuck! Welcome!

These are suggestions - feel free to ask more questions if you need anything.

Read this guide - I wish I had had something like this when I started: http://homegrow-pro.com/quantum-board-build-grow-tent/ Read this guide too: http://homegrow-pro.com/the-3x3-grow-tent-setup/

Essentials

• Grow Tent: 3 ft x 3 ft x 6 ft is the size you'd probably want. This is the one I bought: https://www.amazon.ca/VIVOSUN-Hydroponic-Observation-Window-Growing/dp/B01DXYMKIO
  
• Light: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Kingbrite-240W-samsung-lm301h-288v3-quantum_62120261175.html?spm=a2700.7803241.0.0.31d73e5fhFxf6a This light is a fantastic LED quantum board that is very easy to assemble - I got the 3000K one with the epistar
  
• Fabric Pots: Head to Amazon and grab yourself a 5-pack of 7 gallon fabric pots https://www.amazon.ca/VIVOSUN-Gallons-Thickened-Nonwoven-Handles/dp/B00TF9E9PY/
  
• Also get yourself a saucer (you can get this at any garden store) and a pot elevator for each pot (pot elevator example: http://amazon.ca/Gro-Pro-725675-Level-Elevator/dp/B01J37FHF8/)
  
• Soil: Get yourself a bail of Pro Mix HP with mycorrhizae (it's cheap, reliable, and hard to overwater) from Canadian Tire, Rona, any store really and get also a bag of earthworm castings. Cover the bottom of your fabric pot with the castings (2-3 inches deep) https://www.homehardware.ca/en/20l-organic-worm-castings/p/5025712
  
• Nutrients: Gaia Green Dry Amendments (All Purpose and Power Bloom) Mix the All Purpose in with your Pro-Mix HP and then top dress your "soil" every month, changing it to Power Bloom during flowering https://www.canadiangardensupply.com/gaia-green-all-purpose-4-4-4.html https://www.canadiangardensupply.com/gaia-green-power-bloom-2-8-4-power-bloom-2-8-4-2kg.html
  
• Ventilation: Get the AC Infinity Cloudline T4 - it's absolutely worth it. Then purchase a 4-inch carbon filter and 4 inch tubing from Amazon (branding doesn't matter for these two things) https://www.amazon.ca/AC-Infinity-CLOUDLINE-T4-Ventilation/dp/B06ZXWN3BG https://www.amazon.ca/AC-Infinity-Dual-Layer-Aluminium-Ventilation/dp/B071LHCFZ8 https://www.amazon.ca/VIVOSUN-Australia-Charcoal-Pre-filter-Included/dp/B01DXYMBU6
  
• Timer: You can go cheap on this, but also consider a smart timer (like a Wemo) https://www.amazon.ca/Insight-Switch-Enabled-Compatible-Amazon/dp/B00EOEDJ9W
  
• Seeds: Jahseeds.ca - Canadian breeder, amazing beans, amazing price! Go with feminized seeds for your first round. https://jahseeds.ca/shop?olsPage=t%2Ffeminized-seeds
  
  Extra accessories
  
  
• Pruning shears (seperate ones for trimming live plants and ones for harvesting) https://www.amazon.ca/Pruning-Gardening-Straight-Stainless-Precision/dp/B076HL5JJM
  
• a lighter (for sanitizing)
  
• a set of tweezers, for planting your sprouted seed
  
• some garden gloves
  
• rope ratchets for your lights
  
• zips ties for protecting things
  
• binder clips (for low stress training)
  
• plant ties (soft rubber and wire kind)
  
• watering can
  
• two pairs of measuring spoons for dry amendments
  
• a clip on fan and rotating fan (for air circulation over and under the canopy)
  
• markers and a pack of tag plant markers for identifying plants
  
• soil moisture https://www.amazon.ca/Soil-Moisture-Sensor-Meter-Hydrometer/dp/B014MJ8J2U
  
• paper towels (for germination)
  
• Bucket Head Wet Dry Vacuum Powerhead Lid for 19 Litre (5 Gal.) Multi-Use Buckets great for gathering up the excess water and tipped soil) https://www.homedepot.ca/product/bucket-head-wet-dry-vacuum-powerhead-lid-for-19-litre-5-gal-multi-use-buckets/1000666690
  
• 3 five gallon buckets (1 for the buckethead vacuum and 2 for extra water reservoirs) and two lids
  
• 3 surge protector power bars
  
• Various AC power extension cables
  
• 1 trellis net (for ScrOG training)
  
• USB microscrope (used to check the trichomes at harvest - if you want you can also get an adapter so it plugs directly into your smartphone, as opposed to plugging it into a computer) https://www.amazon.ca/Jiusion-Magnification-Endoscope-Microscope-Compatible/dp/B06WD843ZM
  
• 62% Boveda packs for curing
  
• Mason jars for curing and storage
  
• hanging rack for drying (you can substitute this for a hanger and some plant ties)
  
• Duct tape
  
  
  It's a little more expensive at the start, but this setup will pay for itself within two harvests. With this setup you can expect to yield between 8 to 12 oz every run, once you grow accustomed to the cycle.

> i basically just need a light and thats it? if i want to grow autoflower only

oh boi... alright here we go.

youll need duct fans for both ventilation and heat dissipation, especially if you go with HPS/MH lights 600/1000watts will require reflectors with ducting so you can connect to it. This will need to exhaust out of your tent. Then you will need a intake fan coming preferably from outside. Youll most likely also need a Carbon filter attached in series to your exhaust fan. Your light will have a ballast as well, which creates a good amount of heat so plan for that to be located outside your tent. Youll also need smaller fans in the corners so you can keep a good air circulation going (hurricane fans are great). Also consider using T5 lights when starting your seeds off as your higher wattage lights are not good for seedlings. Also get a few supplies like gorilla tape and duct clamps and anything else you might need to secure everything together.

When it comes to growing, even if you are only doing autos youll need smart pots, fertilizer, promix HP, perlite plus both vegging and flowering nutrients. Have access to PH up and down solution, and also get a Ph Pen + PPM meter (TDS).

Ive only linked amazon, there are probably other local options for you.

This is what we used last winter, the adhesive left no marks and didn't take any paint off - after you shrink it and trim it's barely noticeable

Duck Brand Indoor 10-Window Shrink Film Insulator Kit, 62-Inch x 420-Inch, 281506 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002GKC2GW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fjj1Bb5B0EPM6

I had some sticker shock on my December bill, over $400. No gas in the house though, all electric. It's an old house, built in the '20s and is a bit larger than yours. Original windows on the main floor but updated energy efficient windows on the upper floor. I only keep it at 65 while we're home and 61 while we're away. Not really sure about the insulation but the walls are all lathe and plaster so I'm not really keen on investigating that.

This month I'm focusing on plugging some airgaps and replacing the weather stripping on the doors. Also bought some of these for my main floor windows so we'll see how much that helps.

Tryibg to fix shit with inadequate lighting is a real source of frustration. Get him one of these for christmas or something.

https://www.amazon.com/Woods-Clamp-Aluminum-Reflector-Listed/dp/B000HHQ94C?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_5

https://www.amazon.com/PowerSmith-PWL2140TS-Dual-Head-Housing-Telescoping/dp/B010IFS49A?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1


A high powered headlamp is also a must, even with both of the other 2.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-5-Window/dp/B00002NCJI

Oh hell yeah. My apartment sits around 70 but my bedroom sits around 64. I put up window film and my room is now up to 70 with the rest of the apartment. I will put a link below for what you need. It is by far te best $7-$11 I spend all year.

https://www.amazon.com/Duck-10-Window-Insulator-420-Inch-281506/dp/B002GKC2GW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521587453&sr=8-3&keywords=window+winter

2x4basics 90164 Custom Work Bench and Shelving Storage System, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0030T1BRE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_L.qrDbD0EGNZW

Many vandwellers use the Portable Mr. Buddy heater:

• Approved for indoor/outdoor use; clean-burning; nearly 100-percent efficient
  
  
• Auto shut-off if tipped over, if pilot light goes out, or if detects low oxygen levels
  
  https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232000-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B002G51BZU
  
  (Also available at Walmart stores and Cabela's)
  
  It's a good idea to have a carbon monoxide (don't confuse this with dioxide) detector in your van and to leave your windows open a bit when the heater is being used.
  
  

I've used this before. Works well. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002GKC2GW/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_KHLvub0DJ5HXV

Similarly, you can use one of these kits, which are basically shrink-wrap for the window. You stick double-sided tape around the window, attach the plastic, and shrink it with a hairdryer. Unlike the blanket, you can still see through it, although you won't be opening the window until you take it down in spring.

Heat-shrink window sealer kits, at your local hardware store. They cost between $10 - $30, depending on the number/size of your windows. You run the double-sided tape around your window frame, stick the film to it, then shrink the film tight with a air dryer to make it basically invisible. Worth every penny.

This stuff - there are lots of different brands

3M Indoor Window Insulator Kit, 5-Window https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002NCJI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3qhdAbTWQ0RRR
I live in an older mobile home. Insulating windows is essential to not freeze

5 windows, $18. I did exactly zero shopping around, so you can probably get it for less than that.

3M Indoor Window Insulator Kit for 5 Windows https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002NCJI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Kd.tybG6WQ7KC

Heat shrink. Something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/3M-2141W-Indoor-5-Window-Insulator/dp/B00002NCJI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1292816085&sr=8-1


Should be available at any neighborhood hardware store. Goes on with a hair dryer and does as good a job as anything else would.


If you don't care so much about sunlight, a heavy blanket would work best.

I use a window insulation kit like this. I used them when I lived in Canada too. The gap between the window and the plastic you put up traps the air. I use those as well as curtains. Works well enough for me and I have cold urticaria and live in Nagano prefecture. Still alive! I've heard of peoples' windows cracking when they've taped something like the bubble wrap directly to it so I've been hesitant to try.

https://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8

And the best place to buy them? Amazon under clear window sheeting such as

Duck Brand Indoor Extra Large Window/Patio Door Shrink Film Kit, 84” x 120”

for only $3 !!!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NHW2Z6/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_gCshDbC3DCPC2

If you sleep in your car with the windows rolled up, it will suck. You will feel clammy from the humidity and will definitely have frozen windows on the inside when you wake up.

If I were you, I would keep the windows slightly cracked and use a small propane heater in the vehicle. This sounds crazy but Mr. Heater makes some propane heater models that are indoor safe. These units auto shut off if they are tipped over or if the room oxygen level becomes too low. As long as you keep fabric away from the heat output, you should be fine.

Also, you might consider getting some plastic window deflectors for your car windows so that snow doesn't blow into the vehicle when the window is cracked.

Sleep with pajamas, socks, and a beanie on and bring a thermos filled with hot tea. You'll appreciate it as you're laying down for bed. :)


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CFRF7I
http://www.weathertech.com/side-window-deflectors/

Mr Heater Little Buddy!


It's designed pretty much exactly for this it has built in oxygen detectors and will auto shut off before it gets dangerous.


However if you decide to NOT use a heater you end up in a -20 sleeping bag shivering yourself to sleep while cuddling a friend for warmth, which is far less safe because you might get tauntauned for warmth.


Also if your a mom, you might not want to ask too many questions, especially things like, "where are your eyebrows" or "why do you have duct tape wrapped around your arm?"

You want a Mr Heater Buddy, man. Easy to use, safe, cheap to run, and it will keep you warm in a space much bigger than a van. Highly recommended.

EDIT: for safety, make sure you install a carbon monoxide detector.

I would recommend saving up $50, and buying a
Portable Buddy heater when it goes on sale. They are made for indoor use, and have safety shutoffs for low volume or getting knocked over. For another $10, you can buy an adapter hose that lets it use the 20lb "grill" propane tanks.

The 1lb "camping" bottles will last 3-5 hours, and the 20lb tanks will last several days straight (or a week, if you only use the heat a few hours per day).

That's standard placement.

Relocating would be very costly and not useful. Instead, focus on improving the efficiency of your home. New windows and more insulation.

If new windows are too much $$$, look at window film.
A kit like this works for winter or summer:
Duck Brand 281506 Indoor 10-Window Shrink Film Insulator Kit, 62-Inch x 420-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002GKC2GW/

Get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002GKC2GW/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and wrap all your windows with it. It will cut down on the draftiness. In my bedroom it made it about 3-4 degrees warmer on average.

Start thinking about another heating source, stat. We have oil for our house heat but oil is also really expensive; if left on full time we'd spend about $450 easy per month. Instead we have it set for sporadic times to turn on during the day to save money, and mostly we run our pellet stove. A decent one can be had for about $1000 and it'll run less than half the cost of using oil heat. We bought a pallet of pellets from Lowe's for $330 and we're only about halfway through the supply for this winter (but that's mainly cuz our pellet stove only heats half the house; we're getting another one installed on the other side).

In terms of costliness, it goes electric > oil > pellets/wood (but imo wood is messier, you have to stack it, keep it seasoned, and the fire needs constant feeding). Most pellet stoves have an auger/feeder which keeps the fire stoked constantly so you don't need to worry about it -- downside of that is it uses electric so if your power goes out, so does your pellet stove (wood stoves will run regardless).

Lastly, but imo most importantly -- INSULATE YOUR HOUSE. Insulate it well. It's worth paying good money to tightly seal and insulate it with the correct R value (here's a good link that tells you how much you need based on where you live: https://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=home_sealing.hm_improvement_insulation_table)

We bought a house last year and didn't know till we were in it that it was very poorly insulated. R15 where there should be at least 23, all over the house. Some walls with zero insulation. You'd be shocked at how common this is. Most contractors and home builders cut corners everywhere they can, and since you can't see insulation behind the walls, they don't bother doing it properly. We are re-doing pretty much every wall in this house, room by room, to correctly insulate and we already feel a difference.

Ok time to get off my soapbox, hope some of this helped.

You're looking for a relay. I used a few of these when I renovated my basement:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0037MXM1C/

It replaces the built-in rheostat on the baseboard heat, and you then use low-voltage wiring to connect it to a "regular" 24v thermostat.

I bought this go control unit from amazon back in October and set it up without much trouble. Initially I just had a hub and this for my garage to be able to check the door status after we left the house and my wife would question whether the door had closed.

I was in my basement at about 10pm the first time I heard the garage open. I thought it was odd since I knew my wife was upstairs on her computer so I checked it out and asked if she had triggered the door to open from her phone though I wasn't sure if she knew she could do this. I checked a few things on the smart things app, shut the door from the OG button outside and went to bed.

About a month later I woke up and headed out to work to find the garage door open. When I got to my car I immediately knew it had been gone through. Nothing valuable to a thief was stolen but they did take the hand mics to both my ham radio and my cb (I offroad and use these to communicate with my group), a knife that was in the driver front door pocket, and a car phone charger.

I checked my wifes car and saw that the center console had been tossed. Her car is kind of a mess so although I knew someone had gone through it I couldn't tell if anything was gone. I knew I couldn't do anything about it at that point so I left for work and an hour later when I knew she'd be awake I texted her about what had happened. She walked down to check the garage and it was open again after I know it closed when I left. She closed it and did her thing before also leaving for work.

I was in the middle of something at the office so I couldn't immediately leave but a few minutes later I went home (20 minutes away) and disconnected the GoControl. I haven't done anything with it since then. I did realize later though that the thief took my dewalt 20v battery and unplugged my charger to also take but actually left because the power cable was twisted around a few different things. I feel fortunate that they didn't steal more because I had my drills and other tools right in front of my car on a work bench.

/u/SpartanUp247 , I'm breaking this up so it's not a mega post.

Insofar as other as other supplies go... well, I could write on that for way longer than I'm going to tonight. I'll try to give a short essential list though.

• Flashlights and ample batteries. Preferably including some headlamps and lantern style lights. Candles as well.
  
  
• An emergency radio, preferably with a hand crank + solar rechargeable battery.
  
  
• Some FRS radio's in the event that cell phones die or coverage is sparse.
  
  
• Propane tanks and the ability to use them for cooking. Usually that will mean a portable burner and high pressure hose. There are other cooking options out there as well, such as Sterno, so grab whatever your situation/funding allows for.
  
  
• Appropriate weather gear. That means cold weather sleeping bags for winter and methods to cope with heat like an Arctic Tie. Maybe a propane heater as well.
  
  
• Don't forget sanitation. A 5 gallon toilet bucket is a good investment. Then stock up on thick garbage bags, baking soda/cat litter, and a mega sized bottle of hand sanitizer.
  
  
• Make sure you have the basics of first aid supplies covered. Enough stuff to treat and wrap wounds, protect blisters, protect from the sun, things like that.
  
  
• Have whatever tools you think you might need for whatever you're prepping for. Things like a wrench to turn off the gas in your house that lives near the gas meter. For people in hurricane areas, an axe to chop through a roof to evade rising waters. Definitely multiple fire extinguishers/fire blankets. Things of that nature.
  
  
• And of course, a gun and training on how to use it is always a smart call.
  
  --------------------------------
  
  Bug out bags are cool and a good idea/place to get started, but realistically if you are forced to sincerely grab that bag and run out of the door with nothing else because things are just that screwed, you are likely pretty hosed. Chances are you'll have time to pack the car in most situations, so the best way to go is to plan on bugging in first and foremost. No point in turning yourself into a refugee if you don't need to. If you're still wanting to start with a bugout bag... see the next post for my recommendation for a cheap startup kit.

You can get special kits for a couple of bucks on Amazon.

2x4 basic bench is totally idiot proof - all you need is some 2x4s and ply or MDF - I did mine 2ft x8ft with 3/4 inch ply on the bottom and middle shelves and 3/4 inch MDF for the top and it's solid as a rock.

http://www.amazon.com/2x4basics-90164-Workbench-Shelving-Storage/dp/B0030T1BRE

Pic of my bench - took about 90 mins including cutting the 2x4s by hand

http://i.imgur.com/jje0N8R.jpg

My personal suggestion (if you're willing to take the time) is starting with this kit. It's a bit more work and costs more as it requires you to buy and cut lumber, but I think the payoff is worth it. There's a lot of room for customization and fitting the bench to your needs. Mine feels pretty much bomb proof.

OK. Here is what you are dealing with:

1.(L) black. Line voltage load. Either 110v or 220v. Need to verify with a voltmeter.

2.(W/Y) orange. W=heating and Y=cooling. Used for a two pipe hydronic heating/cooling system. That means water.

3.(Y/A) yellow. Y = cooling. A = electrical heater output. Heat and cool active to any relay.

4.(G1) red. Low speed fan. Through a relay.

5.(GM) blue. Medium speed fan. Through a relay.

6.(GH) brown. High speed fan. Through a relay.

7.(N) white. Line voltage neutral. Either 110v or 220v. Need to verify with a voltmeter.

What is missing is the "C" and "R" wires. Nowhere is there a low voltage 24v load and common wire. Your current thermostat does not use it.

You have two options that I know of. Purchase a transformer to supply the 24v to your new thermostat. Or return the Honeywell and purchase a wifi enabled line voltage T-stat.

Transformers. Here are two that may work:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0037MXM1C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A26RBB5XP2LWJC
For 240 volts

http://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-RC840T-120-Electromechanical-Relay-Built/dp/B00D5YLY2G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464560168&sr=8-1&keywords=Aube+RC840T-120
For 120 volts

Line voltage T-stat:
https://casaconnect.com/en/shop/smart-thermostat-caleo/

Note: Since you have hydronic heating and cooling, in addition to HVAC, either choice for the thermostat will likely mean that you will loose that option. I have not evaluated the new Honeywell or Casa to see if they support hybrid systems.

Thought I would share since this is a pretty recent development, and I was about an hour away from installing this at my vacation rental property... For those interested, The GoControl z-wave garage door opener will work with a Smart Things hub and is officially supported.

Pretty pissed that I won't finish the automation install at this house this weekend but really glad I didn't was a whole bunch of time installing this!

>decent results for $1000

>actually recommended 1500

LOL @ the current /r/microgrowery

I remember when this used to be pages of people growing with tube light T4s for seedlings and CFLs for cheap grows.

Either way you need a budget. Let's say $175 for fun.

Go to a hardware store and get the cheapest 10 pack of LED bulbs. Get a power strip and some adapters to build one of these with those LED bulbs. You can fit 8 bulbs on a good power strip, save 2 bulbs for replacements if you want. That's 80W of LED from the wall for like $15-$20.

Get a tent. Here's a 2x2x4 for $38.. A tent will be easier than building anything, especially for the price.

With that small of a tent, you won't need a 6" fan, but if you think you'll get a big tent some day you may want to consider one. Get a 4" inline fan. Here's one on Amazon for $45, that comes with a speed controller to turn down (make quieter).

If you can't have your whole house smelling, you need a quality carbon filter. Here's an ok filter for $36 that will match your fan. It should last you a grow or 2.

Lights - $20

Tent - $38

Fan - $45

Filter - $36

You're at $139..

For the last $36 you need to consider your plant's pot, soil, nutes, and other small misc like rope or clothespins for plant training. It's not much, but you're shooting for cheap as possible. You can see where adding funds really can help this way. Hope it's helpful!

It’s easier (and cheaper) to suck heat out of a room than to forcefully cool it off.

I’m in the south as well. In the summer I siphon out hot air to an outdoor soffit exhaust vent. In the winter I can suck cold air from the other side of the house to dump in the lab room. Speed controlled by thermostat. Great system for the last 7 months.

AC Infinity CLOUDLINE T4, Quiet 4” Inline Duct Fan with Thermostat Speed Control - Ventilation Fan Exhaust Fan for Heating Cooling Booster, Grow Tents, Hydroponics https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZXWN3BG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Z712Ab7NAG406

Assuming your windows are old/leaky and you can't modify or replace them, this is the way to go, OP.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-Windows/dp/B00002NCJI

It has clear plastic film that's a bit like shrink wrap and some double-sided tape. You basically stick a piece of the film over the entire window with some of the tape and then blast it with a hair dryer (optional) to tighten it up. It will stop any air from leaking through and be basically transparent.

That house will definitely give you some character! You will be a tough skinned, fast walking, don't talk to anyone you don't know New Englander in no time!

But seriously though, New England is one of the oldest European occupied locations in North America, we have some old friggin' houses and apartments here. I'm in Rhode Island, although I'm in Boston constantly, but same deal applies. Here are some pro-tips for surviving winter in really old houses.

First, get yourself some shrink wrap plastic for the windows, it's in your local hardware store and even Amazon has some. Don't put this up until at least mid-October though, we can get random 70-80F degree days through Oct. 31, doesn't happen constantly, but it happens. You also want to get some under the door draft stoppers. You can get them for all outside doors or just the door to your bedroom, either way they help.

Next, get yourself multiple layers of blankets for the bed. I do this so I can pull them off/layer them up when late fall/early winter nights spike 55 degrees one night and 25 degrees the next. So it's sheets first, then a thin blanket, then a full quilt and lastly, a thick blanket that sits at the foot of your bed that can be pulled up when freezing at night (or left to just warm your feet). I have a fake fur one that is really thick for the last layer of defense.

Last, dress yourself in warmer clothes! As you are Canadian, I'm sure you can manage this, even if you are from a milder city. But dressing warmly in your own house is the most critical. I have ultra winter lounge pants, these in fact, which are very expensive, but you don't need those in particularly, you can just find furry pants like those. Wear those and thick wool socks when in your house or even sleeping (if it's that cold, I can't sleep in pants personally). I will wear these with a fake fur lined hoodie when home, so if it's really freezing cold you can pull the hood up.

That should help some! Welcome to New England and go Blue Jays...next year we'll get 'em (ugh). I'm a native New Englander but lifelong Jays fan (long story).

Frequently stained glass gets protected by a sheet of clear plate glass outside of it. That would take care of the leakage problem.

​

I lived in an apartment (first floor of an old house) with stained glass windows and they had horrible leakage around the lead lines...you could literally feel a breeze close up to the window...my heating bill went to 1/3 when I sealed all the windows with that clear plastic film on the inside, but glass outside would have been much better. It was not mine to remodel though.

It has been said by others, but let me repeat for emphasis: Layers. I know lots of people that bitch about the cold but only wear a coat over a T-shirt. Come winter, I'm wearing some kind of undershirt/thermal, a flannel/chamois/wool shirt, a vest and then a coat. Merino wool socks are awesome. Smartwool is the name brand, but you can find store brands that are much cheaper. I would suggest some kind of waterproof shoe or boot for the snow.

Get several pairs of gloves. You will lose them and going to the store with one glove sucks. I personally think glommits are the bee's knees. Warmth+dexterity when needed. Embrace the hat and have fun with it.

People have talked about a winter kit for your car, which is a good idea, but how about your house? If you have newer, quality windows (double pane Low E glass) you probably don't need to do anything, but if you live in an older house with old, drafty windows getting window film might be a good idea. If you have a drafty door, there are many adhesive-backed foam strip products to help seal those up.

Bundle up and try to enjoy winter. To me there are few things as beautiful as a crisp sunny day after a fresh snow, where everything sparkles and glimmers. So long as you're inside and drinking a cup of coffee that is.

EDIT: spaces after links.

Gotta have one of these on hand!

Kidde 468093 KL-2S Two-Story Fire Escape Ladder with Anti-Slip Rungs, 13-Foot https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005OU7B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_27UwDb9JGTRJA

Regardless, good luck OP. Wish you all the best.

I too live in a '20s build (in the UK.) It's sticks and bricks though and we have dragged it into C21. I also happen to be my company's Fire Worryabouterer and when the missus decided to run a small pet care business from home, I wrote up a fire safety plan for the place to comply with insurance and local council policy. At no time did I bother mentioning the network wiring (I'm also a reasonable cable monkey).

Fire needs three things: Ignition source; something to burn; and oxygen. Oxygen is hard to avoid. Ignition - sparks are unlikely in such low voltage/power - OK, buy shielded CAT6 or CAT6a and earth it. Something to burn: specify cable with fire retardant sleeving.

If you are going to look into fire safety, then do the job properly and please do. It does not cost a lot. Some notes:

• Get a fire blanket fitted next to your cooker.
  
  
• At least one fire extinguisher per floor - "dry water" (atomized water in nitrogen) is safe for all home fires or foam if that's not available.
  
  
• One shot escape ladder for your bedroom(s) if they are upstairs.
  
  
• Fit plenty of smoke detectors and test them. While you are at it consider CO detectors if necessary.
  
  
• De-fluff the back of the fridge/freezer, cookers, other white goods (especially tumble driers) and use your 'leccy skills to check them regularly for safety. Tumble driers and older white goods are a common source of fire. Can you move the drier out of the house?
  
  
• Check ventilation spaces around devices that spit out heat.
  
  
• Politely suggest the SO stops leaving tea towels and other flameable stuff near the cooker.
  
  
• Check all appliances cough wifey's hair tongs, hair drier ie high power things with probably knackered cables cough. Don't forget the vacuum cleaner and other things stuffed into drawers.
  
  
• Look at wall warts - throw away any that you can't pronounce the manufacturer's name. Ban unbranded charging devices
  
  
• Check your power outlets for spark potential
  
  
• Ban or at least minimise extension cables - add more wall outlets on your rings
  
  
• Ban glass ornaments on window cills.
  
  
• Think about water pipes and potential for mixing water and 'leccy.
  
  
• Think about escape routes.
  
  Spend a couple of hours over all this and perhaps half an hour updating the plan/notes per year there after. Two small dry water extinguishers + a cooker fire blanket + escape ladder say £150. OK and a couple of minutes testing the alarms when you remember. Walk your house and look hard and remember the three requirements for fire and do your risk assessment. You say you are a sparky with knobs on, so bloody well do your thing and at least test your 'leccy circuits for resistance and other standards.
  
  If you'd like a copy of my fire plan, then PM me (offer open to all) If I get swamped with requests 8) I'll stick it on a web server and post a link. I think if you show the boss that you are taking things seriously, then she can't complain and besides, you'll need her to proof read and approve the final release. That way you get buy in and perhaps some cred. Finally and most importantly, you will both be a bit safer: fire never happens until it does and then you don't want to be saying "what if".
  
  https://www.safelincs.co.uk/ultrafire-water-mist-fire-extinguishers/
  
  https://www.amazon.co.uk/Kidde-468093-Two-Storey-Escape-Ladder/dp/B00005OU7B/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1520634610&sr=8-3&keywords=fire+ladder&dpID=41kOHXbIyCL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

If his bedroom is on the second floor, and you're mildly paranoid like I am, consider a folding fire escape ladder for this room "just in case." Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00005OU7B/ref=s9_acsd_topr_hd_bw_bDLKN_c_x_5_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=M32S5J78KWM9TXQVT470&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=61a85868-2d32-532a-bbf2-56db3677eaec&pf_rd_i=3180251

Tell your pops I used this stuff on my tub and it came out nice.

• Gross
  
• After
  
  Couple tips: The directions say to use like 400 grit sandpaper, screw that, I tried that for almost 20 minutes and it wasn't doing a thing. I went down to like 150 grit. Real rough stuff. And it gouged the surface right up. I would periodically wipe the dust off with a damp cloth, then dry the surface and start sanding again. I think I sanded for just over an hour, taking a lot of short breaks to catch my breath since it was a pretty good workout. Once most of the gloss was gone and it was pretty well gouged up I applied the epoxy. People in the reviews complained about the vapors from the epoxy. So I setup two fans, a box fan blowing out the window and another fan blowing right at my head (the toilet's at the perfect height for this ;-)) And I felt completely fine breathing normally. It's been about a year and it's holding up great. Though we have babied it, just cleaning it with soap and water and a soft sponge, but it stays clean fairly easily and still looks great. Highly recommended easy DIY job for an old tub.

I totally get how dangerous it is. My position is that, living in a big city, we sometimes forget that this is Canada: no heat means death. We had no heat one year during a three or four day power outage; most of our neighbours had to go to a community center. I don't like to rely on others when there are cheap, reliable alternatives. It's not nice, but it is possible to heat a room with beeswax candles and a home built clay pot heater, or alcohol gel.

Here's an example of one of the smallest catalytic heaters i've seen:
http://www.amazon.ca/Heater-F215100-3800-BTU-Indoor-Safe-Propane/dp/B001CFRF7I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1425433438&sr=8-2&keywords=coleman+heater

I've used a coleman black cat I found for under $100 (there was one listed on amazon for $500 which is stupid)

If it's -25 out, you'll still need a sleeping bag or a sweater or a jacket but it will heat a room enough to keep you from freezing.

http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232000-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B002G51BZU/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1411528054&sr=1-1&keywords=heater+portable+propane+indoor

Or you can use the product specifically designed for this purpose.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-Windows/dp/B00002NCJI

I mean yeah, your tip is good too if you are trying to insulate your tin roof shanty with found materials.

Polycryo is allegedly from the materials original usage as a window film insulation.

The second page of that thread suggests that Gossamer Gear made up the word.

However, there is no registration of either "polycro" nor "polycryo" in the USPTO Trademark System, which would indicate to me that it's a generic term for the material.

I also can't find any description of what specific material 3M or Duck uses.

To get you by the next two winters, buy the window insulation kits:

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-5-Window/dp/B00002NCJI

They go on easily, are good for all winter, and you'd be surprised at how well they reduce drafts and cold air coming into your home.

Window plastic: https://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-Windows/dp/B00002NCJI/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1481318689&sr=8-11&keywords=cellular+shades

Weather strip

Window Sealing Kit

Foam Strip

I'm in the Fan, in a well-insulated apartment with central air. I just paid $122, kept at 74-75 all of July and August so far. So yours sounds right.

You could buy window wrap, or other simple insulation solutions like door snakes

Unless you want to keep it at 85 during the day, and bump down to 75 at night, it's probably going to be like it is now

Edit; actually get window wrap for the winter anyway. It cuts down on draftiness significantly. I even used to shove towels and shit in my door/window cracks because I love not shivering.

Run

You didn’t say what grade or what floor her room will be on but maybe an escape ladder.. This may be going to far but I’m spit-balling here. Also, if she can’t take the kids with her then it’s going to look pretty bad if she takes off by herself/first.

If the windows don’t open and are tempered she’ll need something like this. I’m not sure if it will work on building saftey glass so you might want to research that more.

Hide

Door wedges that hold doors open can also hold them closed


Fight

Consider adding a tactical flashlight.. Bright, strobe option, Strike Bezel if it comes to that.

If she’s got a good throwing arm maybe lacrosse balls, baseballs, rocks, steel pinballs or something to use in a last ditch effort.

Maybe a whistle - generally remain quite but a very loud piercing whistle could distract. Also, if the time is right it can be used to signal for assistance.

Well I have one, and so do other people I know.
The #1 fire escape ladder on Amazon is $35. Seems like a no-brainer to me.

Put a thermostat outlet switch like this in your tent and plug the AC unit into it.

Make sure whatever sort of thermostat switch you use is able to handle the wattage of your AC unit.

Lux WIN100 Heating & Cooling Programmable Outlet Thermostat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E7NYY8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_XM1RzbEZRFSFN

Edit: this link is just an example. Not something I have personally used. The next comment links to what looks like a better unit.

For 6 small pots, maybe a clamp light set up would work for you. Something like this, with this kind of bulb. The key is to get about 2,000 lumens per sqft if you want really tight growth and sunstress colors, though you can certainly go lower.

If you think you'll need more room, then I highly recommend a shelf set up. This is mine, it's just an ikea stand with a bunch of shop lights attached to each shelf.

The truth is you don't need to buy lights specifically advertised as "grow lights" or "full spectrum" lights. Just check that it's around 5,000k color temperature, and puts out about 2,000 lumens. This info should be on the packaging. Good luck!!

Get yourself some cheap work lights, like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Woods-8-5-Inch-Reflector-150-Watt-6-Foot/dp/B000HHQ94C/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1453582618&sr=8-6&keywords=work+light
Not only are they cheap, they have their own clamp so that you can attach them to chairs, lamps, doors, whatever you have available. If you can still get incandescent bulbs where you live, those will be the most uniform in color temperature. CFLs vary quite a bit, even within the same lot / package. About 3 lights will get you set up for most things you want to do.
Then get yourself some black mat board or foamcore, at least the size of an entire side of the box. Get several pieces of that, and you can selectively block your light source to shape the light however you want, up to the size of that particular face. Some small spring clamps can be used to help hold the board to the box, or upright on a table. You can even use cardboard if you're really on a shoestring budget, and it will work just as well with natural light as it will with artificial lights.
An alternative use for the box would be to put a light inside it and mount it like you would a softbox and shoot portraits with it.
Just some suggestions.
ETA: If you use incandescent bulbs, especially if you go up to 100-150W, be careful with how close you get them to the fabric of the light tent, because it can melt or catch fire!

If I were prepping for cold, I would look into a indoor-rated propane heater.

RV floors are uninsulated. That's one of the reasons why they get so cold.

Anyway, how's the electrical system in the RV? An electric blanket draws a lot of power. If the electrical system isn't in good shape, and he doesn't drive the RV around much to charge the batteries, then the electric blanket would be much less useful.

How big is the RV? Because there are some indoor-safe propane heaters that would work better, such as this one:

http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232000-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B002G51BZU

Duck Brand 10-Window Insulation Kit. That's pretty cheap!

I assume something like this: Duck Brand Indoor 10-Window Shrink Film Insulator Kit, 62-Inch x 420-Inch, 286216 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002GKC2GW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_p0DVDb75HZMW

I put it on some really drafty windows and you can tell they work during the days with 30mph winds the plastic will start to creek as it's keeping the windy cold air out.

They're HD injection molded plastic legs that allow you to make your own bench any size you like-- best $70 I've ever spent on a bench.

The 600W LED I have has 2 built-in fans on top which keep it plenty cool. I keep the intakes open at the bottom of the tent and at the top of the tent I use a fan to pull air in through the carbon filter and out the back of the tent via flexible duct. I use this combo from Amazon filter/fan combo. Some people like to add a fan controller if the fan speed is too high and creating too much negative pressure or the fan runs too loud and doesn't need to be that high.

This one works great for me. I have it set to remind me if the garage door is left open longer than 15 minutes during the day, or if it is open at all after bedtime. it will auto close at certain times of the night, and when I set the house alarm...

>Despite the fact that you're burning them to create the smoke that you're tasting, if a cigar is COLD when it burns, it doesn't taste as good as a cigar at room temp when it burns.

Are you tasting the cigar or the smoke? Because the very existence of smoke means that a very specific combustion temperature has been reached. Not to mention, it wouldn't take long at all for a "cold" cigar to come up to room/body temp, especially if you smoke outside and/or hold it in your (warm) mouth. I don't think this is anywhere near as big a deal as you're making it out to be. And if it is, your wineador is probably running colder than it needs to.

As to the mold issue, I've not ever had a single issue with condensation in my wineador. The biggest issue with generic wine coolers (like mine) is the inbuilt thermostat. They're total hot garbage. When I first got mine, I set it to 66°, but it just ran constantly. The hygros inside were reading >50° and still the cooler kept going. These days I run a cheap chinese ETC (Electric/Digital Temperature Controller) between my wineador and the AC socket, and even that one is MILES better than the built-in temp controller. It cools it to a specific range (I've got mine set for 68.5-70) and then shuts off. Since installing it, I've not seen a single drop of condensation in my wineador. My humidity is rock steady and I can smoke everything just fine directly out of the wineador.

tl;dr - A cheap ETC will solve literally every issue you mentioned.

Anything to hold the temperature should work. I should say, there are even easier methods to ghetto-rig a sous-vide.

Also, if you're interested in sous-vide at all (which IMHO you should be, it's amazing), and you're on a limited budget, I've heard that this guy gives great results when you combine it with a cheap manual crock-pot.

I just got one of these for $27. Worked great.

Here the link to the inline fan

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01CTM0JF2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480555732&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=vivosun+6%22&dpPl=1&dpID=51tOso816mL&ref=plSrch

The link to the led light

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00PH1MQV8/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1480554657&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=galaxyhydro&dpPl=1&dpID=41ZmcPEV9CL&ref=plSrch#top

The link for the reflectix

http://m.homedepot.com/p/Reflectix-16-in-x-25-ft-Double-Reflective-Insulation-with-Staple-Tab-ST16025/100012574

The best inline is one you can buy locally, and has a 3+ year walk-in with broken fan, walk-out with new fan, warranty. Grow/Hydro stores should have this. Also industrial supply. If your inline breaks, you can't wait 3 days for a new one in the mail. Much less sending it away for warranty repair.

If you are in a situation where you need to mail order, Active Air has been solid for me. Three on timers and one on 24/7 duty, no failures in 2+ years. Don't buy anything that looks like this.

Container: Rubbermaid 20 gal Brute Bin

Lights: Kingbrite 60 W Quantum Board (if you want dimmable, ask for a dimmable driver like the HLG-60H-36B and a potentiometer)

Screws: You'll need lots of nuts, long screws, washers, and spacers to mount the board and PSU. First put the board on the lid and mark where to drill, then drill holes. Then put the power supply on the outside in the middle, mark and drill those hoses. Mount power supply and then flip lid over and mount the light, using long screws and nuts to hold it in place (the light should NOT touch the lid but be 1-2 inches from it, held in place by nuts). Drill small hole for power line, then connect. Finally, drill 3 inch hole for exhaust beside the light. You'll also need long screws with nuts to keep the fan and shrouds together. Be sure to use spaces anywhere the screw heads or nuts are touching the lid or the lights. For light spacers, I used rubber spaces between the nuts.

Cooling shrouds: 120mm Fan Duct Cooling Shroud to 4 Inch Vent Hose

90 degree 4 inch elbow for exhaust: 4 in. 90° Round Adjustable Elbow

4" to 3" reducer for exhaust: 4 in. to 3 in. Round Reducer

2x regular JB Weld to mount the reducer and 3 inch "trunk"

Fan: Delta AFB1212SHE-PWM 120mm x 38mm 4pin PWM+Tac Sensor Extreme Hi-speed 3700 RPM 151 CFM

Fan controller: Noctua NA-FC1 4-pin PWM Fan Controller

Fan power supply: LE Power Adapter, UL Listed, 3A, 120V AC to 12V DC Transformer, 36W Power Supply

Fan power supply adapter: CRJ Female DC Power Supply Plug to 12V Molex Power Adapter Cable

Fan molex adapter: Coolerguys Mini 3-4 pin Fan Adapter (Single)

2x ABS fan elbow (for "snout" intake): 3 in. ABS DWV 90-Degree Hub x Hub Long-Turn Elbow

Air filter for intake: 16.25 in. x 12.5 in. x 0.19 in. - 16.3 in. x .2 in. x 12.5 in. - CF300 Carbon Filter

Air filter (not pictured): VIVOSUN 4 Inch Air Carbon Filter Odor Control with Australia Virgin Charcoal for Inline Fan

Fan hose (not pictured): iPower GLDUCT4X8C 4 inch 8 feet Non-Insulated Flex Air Aluminum Foil

Watering device (not pictured): Janolia Automatic Irrigation Kit, Self Watering System, with Electronic Water Timer

Camera (not pictured): Wyze Cam 1080p HD Indoor Wireless Smart Home Camera with Night Vision (glue steel piece for magnetic base onto the upper side of the bin)

Notes: This design is very safe because it keeps all electronic components high in the bin. At the same time, using a battery powered watering system keeps you from requiring to ever open it. The lamp runs very cool. The PWM fan controller works well and keeping the air moving without using a lot of power (do NOT buy a cheap voltage modulator, I did first and it doesn't work nearly as well as the PWM controller). The Wyze cam is super cheap and lets you keep an eye on everything or make timelapses. Have fun growing your tomatoes!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DXYMBU6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

It's a carbon filter

Methinks there is more to this story because it's unlikely that a landlord would threaten an eviction in a smoking suite for smoking.

I can tell you this - you win more bees with honey. You're not going to get a positive reaction from your landlord by trying to force her to do anything let alone a maintenance item that may easily not be considered 'serious' at least, not in the sense of safety it's not.

If I were you, I would write an email to the landlord saying that the drafty window is bothering you and would it be ok if you covered the window with plastic film to keep it from drafting all winter.

https://www.amazon.ca/3M-2141W-6-Indoor-Window-Insulator/dp/B00002NCJI?source=googleshopping&locale=en-CA&tag=googcana-20&ref=pd_sl_7tyimd75v4_e

This stuff goes on in about 5 minutes, and it's very effective in sealing off a drafty window. You peel it off in spring. No big deal. Problem solved.

If you're nice, the landlord will probably let you deduct the cost off your rent. If she's still pissed, well, it's only 20 bucks.

I don't think the stuff is that expensive.

This is what I suggest.

This is enough for 90 Square Feet.

You said you have a door to cover right? Assuming that the door is 36x80" you'd have enough film to cover (at least) four entry doors.

So I would say two boxes...that's like $25 plus the cost of painter's tape...so to be safe I would think you can do all of it for less than $50.

That, along with some doublestick tape will probably do the trick. BUT if I had my choice, I prefer this stuff because it's shrinkable and crystal clear. I've used it with excellent results in a house that was built in the 19teens and was drafty as heck.

Big box stores (Lowes, Home Depot, Menards, etc) should sell something comparable.

These will be your best friend. It's like saran wrap that you wrap the window frame (and window) in. You use a hairdryer to get it all tight and it creates a pocket of air for insulation. It doesn't help quite as much with sound, but it's shocking how well it helps with heat retention. That and curtains will help immensely (and will help with sound too) look for really thick ones, or the "blackout AND insulated" ones and it will help with heat and noise.

Or you can get a space heater, those things rock.

You also can talk to your roommate about it. "Hey, I've noticed it's been a bit chilly lately--" and see what happens.

I hope you get warm soon! Enjoy basking in your showers in the meantime!

Here’s what it looks like as suggested by u/bloodshotnipples 3M 2141BW-6 Indoor Window Insulator Kit, 5-Window https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002NCJI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rOPYDbMBJ0CYP you apply it with the adhesive and usually use a hair dryer to get it nice and sealed.

Just spent hundreds of dollars on fire safety equipment because of this heroic article. FYI:

[Interconnected Smoke Alarms] (https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B003WITCMY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gpvlDb8V524KS)

One on each floor plus bedrooms.

2 Storey Fire Ladder

Also:

Bedroom - smoke alarm, CO alarm, (plus extinguisher in master)
Hallway - smoke alarm, CO alarm,
Kitchen - smoke alarm, extinguisher
Living Room - smoke alarm, CO alarm, extinguisher
Basement - smoke alarm, CO alarm, extinguisher
Garage - fire extinguisher

I always felt better having an alarm system. We have Simplisafe--I think it is $250 for the starter set and should be enough equipment for a one bedroom apartment. It is $25 a month for monitoring with no contract, and you can add on stuff like carbon monoxide and smoke detectors. We have a temperature detector that will alert us if the temp gets below 55 degrees (for the pipes and the cats) if we are out of town. You can take it with you when you move and expand it. I've had mine for almost 10 years, starting with a 2 bedroom condo and now a 3 bedroom house.

Make sure you have a fire extinguisher. They make small ones now that you can keep under the kitchen sink. Also make sure you have a smoke detector and carbon monoxide detector. And a fire ladder if you are on the second floor. Can you tell I am afraid of fires? :)

Find a good pet sitter--one that is insured. I had a friend take care of my cat when I was on vacation...and then she left her in the apartment during a hurricane. I paid someone after that. No one cares as much about your pet as you do. Now it's nice to call someone in an emergency and not be an imposition.

Arizona R21-8-112 5c and 5g


>5c. Identify two routes of evacuation from each bedroom on every floor used by individuals residing in or receiving care in the home. At least one of the exit routes for these bedrooms leads directly to the outside of the home, but shall not lead into an area that serves as a pool enclosure;


>5g. Include the placement of equipment, such as a ladder, that can be safely used by the individuals residing in each upstairs bedroom that have been identified with fire exits.

So that's a little murky. You can say that technically they aren't residing in the room so even though in Arizona you'd have to designate a window exit, it shouldn't legally need a fire ladder. But honestly, it's worth the $33 to put one up there anyways for safety. You can wait for a sale if you want, because I've seen these get down in the low $20s.

If you are looking for a not so smart but reliable thermostat switch, I recently got one of these and have been reliable: Lux WIN100 Automatic Heating & Cooling 5-2 Day Programmable Outlet Thermostat, Compatible with Portable A/C, Fans, and Space Heaters https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E7NYY8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bAIXDbYAV1WBB

$20 for a stack of cut acrylic? You've got to do a much better job at explaining the value proposition here. Especially when the average person is not going to have any idea what it is you're selling.

Also - pictures, pictures, pictures. The average person will spend 5 seconds on your website tops, read 1 sentence (the heading), look at the pics, and leave. Your pictures look like they were taken in your backyard in the dark. Go buy:

• One of these pop up studios: https://www.amazon.com/Neewer%C2%AE-Shooting-Diffusion-Backdrops-Photography/dp/B00GKGGICC/ref=sr_1_1?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1474099811&sr=1-1&keywords=pop+up+photo+booth
  
  
• 3 of these clamp lamps: https://www.amazon.com/Woods-8-5-Inch-Reflector-150-Watt-6-Foot/dp/B000HHQ94C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474099983&sr=8-1&keywords=Clamp+Light+with+Grip+work+light+reflector
  
  
• And a pack of these daylight bulbs: https://www.amazon.com/EcoSmart-5000K-Spiral-Daylight-4-Pack/dp/B0042UN1U0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1474100072&sr=8-3&keywords=daylight+bulb
  
  
• And download paint.net (or torrent photoshop) to edit your photos. You want amazon style photos - big, bright, clear, no/white background, and great detail.
  
  Also, work on your shopify website. Spend a few hours - its not hard to modify an existing theme to look good. You need some color and a more clean layout. The site does not look professional. Why would a customer trust you if your store front looks amateur? They'll leave before they even look at your products.
  
  If you believe in this niche, great. Make the website slick, get good pictures, think about why YOU would purchase these and write up some good copy, and then go drum up some business by participating in a related forum / subreddit / listserv / whatever. Is this actually a problem people need solving? You'll find out.
  
  P.S. I know those blacklight photos look cool and all, but do your customers actually care? Are you going to use this product under blacklight? If not, you're probably turning off anyone older than highschool age.
  
  P.P.S. Stop referring to yourself as cardistry-cards in the copy. The hyphen isn't doing you any favors. Shorten to CC or Cardistry if you're even going to do the 3rd person thing.

I know you said you want a regular light bulb size, but I really recommend you get the ones that are a long tube instead. They're much stronger than any you can find in a bulb style and they're not that expensive, I've seen them at Wal-mart for under $20 for a 24" with all parts necessary.

But, If you really need a bulb just make sure you don't get the incandescent style, those are garbage. You literally have to place them right next to whatever you want to glow and they've always burnt out on me after a few days with minimal use. CFL (the twisty ones) bulbs are ok, but you'll need several and maybe some reflectors to really give them range. A blue CFL bulb will also cause fluorescent things to glow, and they're much brighter and have a longer range than the black light CFLs, but then everything will be blue. Personally, I think it looks pretty cool, but it might not serve your purposes. There's also LED blacklight bulbs now, I don't have much experience with those, though.

>What's the climate like at the college you have planned?

UW Madison, so hella cold. I'm going to get a cargo van (no windows in the rear to let out heat) and insulate the tar out of it with rockwool. I'll also have a [indoors-safe propane heater] (http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232000-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B002G51BZU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422033045&sr=8-1&keywords=buddy+heater) as well as a low power electric heater that will be powered by a battery banked charged by my alternator.

>You might want to consider a community college or somewhere where your living arrangements won't be under scrutiny.

I plan on getting a degree in biology and then go on to vet school, so I'm pretty set with going to Madison.

>some colleges don't 'allow' you to live anywhere but the dorms..... Or a C class RV.

That's why I plan on getting a small cargo van (an AWD Astro to be specific). I can rig it up to be comfy and warm with almost no sign of me being in it. Ill have a metal bulkhead that blocks the front seats from the back, which doesnt look out of place in a cargo van, and the only exterior mod I'd make is a sunroof, which most people couldn't see anyways since the van is over 6ft tall (I'd do this for ventilation and light).

>You'll probably only be there to sleep and relax

Thats the plan, I hope to be either at libraries or at the gym for a good chunk of the day.

I took my youngest at 6mos and it was no trouble at all. Though at that age, we did bring a packnplay, and you'll want to make sure you're warm enough at night. She had the full puffy pjs and was in the double sleeping bag with my wife and I. If it's going to be really cold, you could get one of these heaters.

If anything, the biggest challenge camping with kids is naps, because it can be tough to get it dark enough unless you have an RV. Generally it seems like they got no nap on the arrival day, then they play really hard the next day and either crash around nap time, or typically a bit before their regular bed time. After that, it's pretty up in the air, but I find it all works out.

Our most recent camping trip had like 9 kids, half of which were under 1. It was so great seeing the 3-4 year olds running around and getting dirty. They loved it.

Focusing on bang for buck:

• Save yourself 4.5 oz with nylofume liner bags instead of the stuff sack. $2.50.
  
  
• Save 4 oz. (ish) by replacing the Tyvek footprint with one made from 0.7 mil window film. $4. The tent itself is heavy, but if you're digging it, no sweat.
  
  
• A pound and a half of weight savings could be had by going to a quilt. If you go this way, there are a lot worse than the Hammock Gear Economy Burrow -- you'll want a wide. $180 for a 30 degree (a bit of rating buffer is nice).
  
  
• 7 oz. Replace those soccer pants with some dance pants. $17.95.
  
  
• 12 oz.-ish. I'd dump outright the cotton long sleeve and sweater in exchange for a thrift store fleece. If your current sleeping bag is only good down to 40, you're probably not in cold enough temps where a puffy jacket becomes more important. $10.
  
  
• 1 pound. Replace those pots and mugs and the like with IMUSA grease pots. The 0.7 quart (10 cm) and the 1.25 quart (12 cm) are probably going to be the best options. I'm spitballing the weight savings here, because I really think you can make do with less -- most of us roll with one pot/mug total, for everything. Try lids made out of tinfoil or a disposable aluminum pie tin. $10.
  
  
• 4 oz. Replace that water bottle with a Smartwater bottle. $2.
  
  
• 2 oz. Nitecore NU25 headlamp exists, but at $25, it's not the cheapest suggestion here.
  
  
• 2 oz. First aid kit --just dig in and throw away redundant items. Focus on getting rid of any liquids or goops in there. Repackage into a sandwich-size Ziploc.
  
  
• 6 oz. Dump the paracord. If you're using it for bear bagging, you might try some lightweight nylon string instead, which will usually weigh an oz for 50 feet. 1.75 mm Zing-It is a go to, but I've also just used light nylon utility string from the hardware store, without problems. $5 if you go with the cheap stuff.
  
  
• 4 oz. Repackage that sunscreen! You probably only need an ounce, max, for most trips. An old prescription bottle can work nicely for this, as can one of those 5-Hour Energy bottles. $2.
  
  In total, I get 85 oz. (or 5.3 pounds!) weight savings for a total cost of around $250, or you can do 3.8 pounds for $70 (no new quilt) or even 3.7 pounds for $45 (scratch the headlamp suggestion).

Seal it with something like this.

Then cover it with insulating curtains.

I’ve been slowly chipping away at this bench all summer and trying to figure out exactly how I want it set up, but I finally feel like I’m where I want it to be. In a couple weeks I’ll put together a layout/cut out table next to it covered in HDPE. If anyone is interested, I used [2x4basics 90164 Custom Work Bench and Shelving Storage System, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0030T1BRE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8vsoDbPMPZ0B9](this setup on Amazon) to put the bench together. I highly recommend it and I know a few people do as well on this sub. Makes it easy breezy.

I probably got $100 in lumber into it as well, but I opted for a nicely finished piece of plywood for the top. I can’t imagine I have more than $175 -$200 into the whole thing.

Anyway I’m super happy about it.

This is a simple workbench that I built using MDF, 2x4s, and Amazon "workbench legs." Extremely strong and holds 1000 lbs per shelf. You could probably build this (or something similar) for around $100.

The best thing about this is I can extend and make this longer if I wanted to just by adding longer lateral 2x4 and another set of MDF boards.

This bench takes up minimal space and can be broken down and moved very easily.

https://i.imgur.com/X3UAe9J.jpg

Link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0030T1BRE/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_xbl1DbYBKK3QQ

I bought the Linear GoControl Z-wave controller. It's compatible with most garage door openers, you just hook up a couple of wires into the garage door opener.

I have it connected to SmartThings, it works like a charm.

This device is currently natively supported in SmartThings and will both control your garage door and let you know if it's open/closed: http://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU

GoControl/Linear edge
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00M75TEIU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502321646&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=go+control+zwave&dpPl=1&dpID=41mR-vfm7WL&ref=plSrch

This works with some, but all, garage door openers. And when it works it's extremely way to use and install. I use mine with Smart things hub.

You can use this device with just about any slow cooker or turkey roaster. It is similar to the Codlo others have linked here but way cheaper. I have never used the Codlo to know if it is worth it but the Willhi controller has been running strong for many uses.

Mr. Heater F232000 MH9BX Buddy 4,000-9,000-BTU Indoor-Safe Portable Radiant Heater https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G51BZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nvL-zbF85BZ12

For when/ if electricity fails you. Whether it's a problem with your internal wiring, or an external lack of power. I keep this inside my rig all winter incase of emergency. One of those green propane bottles last 4-5 hours, so keep a couple bottles inside. It's safe to run in the trailer.

I bought my rig last November and went straight to Denver for all of December and January. I stayed totally dry for most of that until I got a heated hose and figured out a couple more tricks.

Keep a clean 5 gallon bucket inside, sometimes motivation or the time isn't there to make it to the gym for a shower. You can boil a kettle of water and use it to wash up.

You can also buy a hand pump for those primo water jugs which are quick, easy, and cheap to fill. Those make it easy to keep water in the place.

You can either wash dishes in a bucket and dump it outside, or you'll need to figure out grey water from the sink. It shouldn't be a problem to run a line out and dump it on the ground, you'd just want to watch the line to make sure you don't get an ice block in there.

If the outhouse gets old, you can look into a composting toilet if you have somewhere to keep it. Or a toilet with a "cassette" which you can dump in the outhouse when it's not -10 out.

Sometimes it's nice to have an option for anything you might need inside the trailer to get though cold days and nights.

fix the transmission.
also i go for higher mpg minivans with all/most of the back seats removed. and ultra-tinting windows exactly up to the legal limit.
but... well any kind of freezing temperature is nuts. And michigan gets really really really cold.
I saw video of a guy doing it with like 6 layers of thermal underwear all sewn together at the ends.
Maybe insulate the walls of whatever you're gonna live in? depends on funds. You could staple-gun some insulation or even cardboard and thermal blanket layers to the wall of the truck.
I used to winter camp (in michigan) and we'd use a catalytic propane heater (similar to this) and insulate the tent with a bunch of moving blankets and emergency blankets layers up.

depends on the model, but the 'cozy cabin' heater by dickinson marine uses a small pilot light that has trouble staying lit at altitude. others have a low-oxygen shut-off feature that can be tripped by thinner air. the mr. buddy heater in particular only works up to about 7,000 ft

I mention the cozy cabin because I spoke with dickinson about that model specifically in the past, I assume (but don't know) that their other heaters operate similarly.

their response to whether it works at altitude is:

"Unfortunately the cozy cabin will not perform well at altitude. It has a small orifice in the pilot light assembly that can not be altered and the unit rely's on the pilot light to keep the thermocouple active so when you try and use it at altitudes the pilot light become erratic and will not keep the thermocouple engaged and the heater will not stay lit."

they never gave a specific maximum altitude, but my original question to them asked about 10,000ft or more.

my suggestion is to first, get a natural gas detector if you don't already have one in the van. second, test it out at incrementally higher altitudes, only while you are awake. after a couple nights of no issues then if you feel safe use it while you sleep.

Mr Heater is what I use and I live in Ohio smoke outside with this on.

https://smile.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232000-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B002G51BZU/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1542769245&sr=8-10&keywords=buddy+heater

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G51BZU

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CFWF5U

Or head to the pub that has power.

/r/vandwellers love mr buddy propane heaters

I can't imagine an oil lamp being safer than propane, not to mention the minimal heat. Oh yeah, and they don't burn as well, so you'll be breathing in a lot nastier air.

Honestly your best solution is a Mr. Heater. It's what I use in my van. It's super efficient, and super warm. No power necessary, just propane. You can use those little green 1 pound propane tanks, or hook it up to a 20 pound tank (that's what I do).

https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232000-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B002G51BZU

Mr heater buddy propane heater, crack an exterior window, buy a co detector.

I've got one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002G51BZU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421301484&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40
2 one pound propane canisters from Walmart (USD 5.77) lasts me 11 hours on low, which is more than enough to keep the van toasty as low as 15 degrees so far.

i think your first step should be to try opening the curtains during the day so you can get some solar heat gain, and only closing them when the little one is sleeping. any heat gained during the day will help keep it warmer in there at night too. you can also look into using a window insulating film like this during the colder months to keep drafts out and keep the heat in.

as for a space heater, you could try to wall-mount one or put it on a high shelf so that it is well out of his reach. if there's a ceiling fan in the room, reverse it so it blows up and turn it on low to recirculate the heated air back down toward the floor.

as for having to close the door, is there a particular reason you want to keep kitty out?

A few of us have used this kit: https://smile.amazon.com/2x4basics-90164-Workbench-Shelving-Storage/dp/B0030T1BRE/

I built a bench using this kit. QuickBench

Mine is a bit bigger since I made it a full 8 feet long and also only have one shelf. I used 3/4 plywood for the top and the lower shelf and a sheet of tempered hardboard for the top layer since the stuff is so durable. I secured it to the plywood with finishing nails. If I remember correctly it was 12 2X4's as well.

Bench

The rough part of kitting out a dream tool shop is ultimately what kind of work you want to specialize in. I'm assuming this is for a woodshop, not a metal or fab shop.

List of things to get:

1)Hand Saw - $15 at Harbor Freight

2)Screwdriver Set - $10 at Harbor Freight

3)Socket Wrench Set - $40 at Home Depot

4)Impact Driver

5)Cordless Drill all three can be purchased as a kit from HD for
$199

6)Circular Saw *

7)Chisels - $20 for a set of 4 from Woodcraft

8)Drill Bits - $10 for a set of OK bits from Harbor Freight

9)Bandsaw - $180 Rikon http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/tls/5337091086.html

10)Table Saw - $100 Grizzly http://seattle.craigslist.org/skc/tls/5333270924.html

11)Scroll Saw - $50 Dremel http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/tls/5333096371.html

12) Cross-Cut Miter Saw $65 Delta http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/tls/5317658737.html

13)Planer/Jointer - $125 Delta http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/tls/5335550484.html

14)Planes (thickness planer likely too expensive) - $40 a pop at antique stores, that's where I've bought all 5 of mine, and restoring them to useable condition took only a couple hours.

15)Hand sander - $50 Makita http://seattle.craigslist.org/skc/tld/5305002890.html

16)Dust Collection - $99, Harbor Freight, 1.5HP portable dust collector

17)Workbench - $80 for the kit on Amazon, plus about $100 in wood, $180, holds up to 1000lbs. http://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-90164-2x4basics-Workbench-Shelving/dp/B0030T1BRE/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1448995094&sr=1-1&keywords=workbench

18)Belt/Disc sander - $70 Performa http://seattle.craigslist.org/skc/tls/5335755070.html

19)Oscillating Spindle Sander - $105, Wen brand, on Walmart.com

20)Router - $20 Craftsman http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/tls/5337762118.html

21)Router Bits - $40 for a starter set at Home Depot

22)Clamps - $30 http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/tls/5326270592.html

Total: $1448

I've been talking with /u/lost5757 for awhile now. We've both recently received our units. I've held off commenting on mine because of some issues I'm getting straightened out with Voccell. But he makes some great points:

• I built a 3' x 5' table for my unit using 2x4s and this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0030T1BRE. The unit fits comfortably side to side (60") with only a small margin front to back (36").
  
• It is HEAVY HEAVY HEAVY and awkward. No plastic Glowforge here. I paid a couple of movers to come and relocate it from my garage to the basement.
  
• Chiller is pro-quality, at least compared to a 5 gallon bucket of water. It only needs a gallon and a half of water.
  
• Yes the lid needs a gas shock. It might be the first mod I make.
  
• The jury is out on the exhaust fan. Both his and mine have failed. We're both waiting on replacements.
  
• Very pro-feeling unit. It is not a toy. It's something that makes toys and the boxes they come in.
  
• I'll add that the software feels under-powered. At this moment it's the weakest part of your day to day work. I haven't been able to get it to "print" from Illustrator. I've had to save an .ai file (version 8, not the latest format) to get the file to the Vlaser software.

The American nest needs 24vac. If you only need to control central heating (on and off only) you can hook the Nest up using a transformer/relay combo. Something like Aube RC840T-240

Start small. It'll save you money, let you get your feet wet, and help you learn how to grow better, and then you can buy bigger.

My "starter package" is:

• A 2' x 2' x 3' grow tent - $55.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SWGYYWO
  
  
• A grow light ($90). I prefer COB's as they're easier to fix than blurples.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I4NY8KW
  
  
• A power strip zip-tied to a pole in the tent. Makes wiring prettier and easier. ($24) I chose a nice metal one, but you can use a cheaper one.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F8ZQYHA
  
  
• Hangers to hold the light ($8)
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098R0600
  
  
• A fan and filter ($70), and variac ($90) to filter smell and move air to keep things cool. This combo is overkill for this tent, but I ended up using it on later tents so it's a good long-term investment. You can cobble something cheaper together with some work, but this "just works" out of the box.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Q2ER5C/
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NGI8VS
  
  
• 5 gallon Smart Pot ($7) for growing, FoxFarm Ocean Forest Soil ($16.50), Plant saucer ($7) for growing. You can save some money here by shopping around. In particular, Amazon's price for FFOF is about double what I pay at the (very expensive) local "indoor gardening" center.
  https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Pots-5-Gallon-Soft-Sided-Container/dp/B002JUOWB2
  https://www.amazon.com/FoxFarm-FX14053-12-Quart-Organic-Potting/dp/B001I49Q98
  https://www.lowes.com/pd/Garden-Treasures-15-31-in-Rust-Plastic-Plant-Saucer/50445000
  
  
• Go Box Plant Nutrients. This should last you several grows.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PS4B08
  
  
• Seed of your choice (let's say $10).
  
  So for about $420 (heh), you can get your foot in the door and start growing. This is a nice setup too, you can probably save $100 by shopping around, buying used, or doing-it-yourself. I've left off a few odds and ends like dryer duct, Fiskers for trimming, weed fabric pins for low-stress training, pitcher for watering, Mason jars for storage, but you can likely find those or suitable replacements around the house without spending money.
  
  I also have a Raspberry Pi 3 ($43) with Sense Hat ($37) and metal case ($15) in each of my grow tents to log temperature/humidity and other things. I'm interested in eventually using the GPIO functionality to water my plants too. Not critical, but definitely a nice thing to have, especially if you're the hacker type. If you go this route, you might look at raspiviv.com too.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C6FFNY4
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014HDG74S
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0722L338Q
  
  I'm glad I bought a good intro setup because I still use it now that I've upgraded. I now have a 3' x 3' GG Shorty tent with HLG 300 LED for flower, a 2' x 2.5' GG Shorty tent with two 400W Roleadro COB's for veg, and my "intro package" is now my germination/cloning tent (and drying tent too since several people suggested that too). Being able to have three tents (germination -> veg -> flower) working simultaneously is increasing my output quite sharply. I'm doing this to help a relative with cancer, so you may not need to go quite as crazy as I did.
  
  You mentioned using 35+ gs (~1.25 oz) a month. You probably aren't going to be able to grow that much given the constraints of tent size and light wattage (plus being a first-time grower! You'll learn a lot!). So once you get used to it, you'll probably want to buy more stuff. Marijuana isn't addictive, but growing marijuana absolutely is.
  
  Once you've got your hardware, the variable cost is seed (~$10), soil (~$5), nutrients (~$20), and electricity (~$30). From that, I'm going to estimate you can grow ~1.5 ozs (you can do more as you learn more though). So you're looking at ~$40/oz after you've made the initial hardware investment.
  
  Hope this helps. Depression, cancer, and everything else can just go suck it.

Thank you for the response.

Suppose I do this:

1. 18 gallon plastic tote
   
   
2. 4" inline fan with carbon filter and speed controller
   
   Then of course Lighting, etc, etc.
   
   Now let's suppose I had one, maybe two plants, flowering in the corner of my basement. Would a visitor to my house, who was also in the basement, be able to smell it?
   
   Thanks again for your response.
   
   

You'll need to contain the plants inside a grow room or tent, then set up a way for fresh air to get in and smelly air to get out. You'll need a fan or blower to move air from the in-vent to the out-vent. On the out-vent end, set up a filter that the air has to go through, which will clean the odor from it.

An expensive but easy/effective way to do this is to buy a carbon scrubber with fan like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Q2ER5C

A much cheaper but DIY way is to set up a good fan and make sure all air passes through one or two layers of carbon filter fabric like this: http://www.amazon.com/Cut---Fit-Carbon-Pad-Purifiers/dp/B000U204W2

Edit: if you haven't looked at tents yet, there's a good selection at amazon: http://www.amazon.com/b/ref=sr_aj?node=3480699011&ajr=0 - they make it much easier to control venting, lighting, temperature, humidity, etc. For 1-2 plants, don't go smaller than 4 square feet, and give yourself plenty of height.

Strains:

G13 Labs - Pineapple Express

G13 Labs - Cinderella 99

Female Seeds - Bubblegummer

Delicious Seeds - Critical Sensi Star

• 4x4x7 Virtual Sun Tent
  
  
• Blackdog Platinum XL-U 750w (720w at the wall)
  
  
• 7 Gallon Generic Smartpots (Misorder, got 10x of these for the price of 10x 7 gallon plastic pots)
  
  
• 50/50 SuperSoil/Roots Organics Original
  
  
• Vortex S-Line 6"(Got for $175 w/free shipping) with Phresh 6"X16" Carbon Filter
  
  
• 200cfm intake booster(Purchased at Home Depot)
  
  
• Vegged for 54 days
  
  
• RO water with 5ml CaMg+ and 1.25ml Pro-Tekt per gallon
  
  Also have a new Drying Tent Setup
  
  And here is my Monster Cropped PC Experiment
  
  __
  
  /r/johnnychronicseed

The lights are one for 18 hours and off for 6. Mine come on at 4 PM and go off at 10 AM.

I'm just using a power strip with a built in timer. Like this. Half the outlets are on a timer, the other half are always on.

I used to keep my fans on the timer as well, but I recently swapped them out for quieter models that are less powerful/noisy. Now I just run the fans 24/7. My main fan has a thermostat in it and will slow down and speed up depending on the temperature in the tent. I find it convenient as I work from home and my tent is in my office. If I didn't sit in the same room as the tent all day, I'd probably just stick with a cheap duct fan like this. It's easy to overdo it with fans in a small tent. I originally bought a big 6" fan but it was overkill. My carbon filters died fast because I was pushing so much air through them and it made more noise than I could stand.

My setup is pretty simple and cheap, but it grows more than I can smoke and I don't have to spend much time worrying about it. I pretty much just did a little research, went on amazon found a grow tent, and bought all the 'people that buy this also buy...' stuff.

I've been using this one for over a year without any issues - GoControl/Linear GD00Z-4 Z-Wave Garage Door Opener Remote Controller, Small, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M75TEIU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3JsHAbS1DN09R

You have a lot of options. Easiest would probably go with a hub like a Samsung SmartThings hub and get zwave door/window sensors.
For the garage door you could use the GoControl outfit kit https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU

The fireplace gets a bit tricky depending on how the control is. Most newer homes with gas logs are on a milivolt system, meaning the switch on the wall that opens the gas valve doesnt actually have power, its just a signal wire. For this case you need to get power to that switch location which could be as easy as tapping into the lines of an adjacent switch. You need a Zwave dry contact swtich. https://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Zwave-Contact-Fixture-Module/dp/B00913ATFI

The best option, in my opinion, is one of these and an appropriate Z-Wave controller. Everything else will handcuff you to one specific cloud platform and limit your integration options.

I use the model that you’re talking about (GoControl/Linear GD00Z-4 Z-Wave Garage Door Opener Remote Controller, Small, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M75TEIU/) and it works great, and a shout-out to their support team for owning up to a known defect in the first version that I got where it would beep and do everything as expected, but not actually open the garage. So, technically, I’d say 5 stars, though I’d have to knock it down to 4 stars only for the trouble of replacing the lemon unit with a working one.

Every now and then, the replacement unit does exhibit this problem of beeping and not doing anything when I ask it to, but that’s so few and far between, and works if I go after it for a second time, that I’d still recommend this to you.

You can also try this. I have been looking at it, but have not used it.
http://www.amazon.com/Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Garage-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU/ref=pd_sim_hi_52?ie=UTF8&refRID=0PD4QQWQ1F30G2K0616A

I spent some time researching this, and ended up getting a z-wave garage door opener off Amazon (this one). It works well, communicates over Z-wave and reaches through several walls to my Z-Wave light switches to join the Z-Wave mesh my SmartThings hub communicates with - With that said, I found out rather quickly afterward that Amazon purposely prevents Alexa from working with any type of smart door/locking mechanism, which made me sadface. I could probably still get it to work through Smart Things custom scripting editor, but honestly I'm fine just doing it through the ST app.

I have the GoControl Z-Wave Controller and it works great with Smartthings.

I would get the hub earlier on since you want to monitor your washer/dryer, and if you have the hub you can buy devices that work with your hub so you can control everything from one spot.

The easiest solution for monitoring your washer/dryer are going to be z-wave devices. For the dryer, if it's electric, a sensor to detect vibration, or if it's gas, you can maybe get away with an outlet that detects current. For the washing machine, usually an outlet that detects current can work for you. It can be a bit tricky to get going though.

Skip the wemo plug and go with a z-wave plug. Any reason for the Lutron dimmers in specific?

For the bathroom fan, I use a z-wave smart switch. I don't have it tied to a humidity sensor, but I have it set (controlled by my hub) to turn off after 25 minutes, that way I don't have to worry about turning it off when I'm in a rush to leave for work. If I wanted to have it triggered by humidity levels or motion, or whatever all I need to do is add another z-wave device and I can make it happen.

The RainMachine seems cool, but pricey for an irrigation controller, no? I use the Orbit B-Hyve and it works great. I rarely ever interface with it honestly. I pull out my phone and run the zones occasionally to check that I don't have any broken heads, otherwise it just runs. It can be completely controlled from your phone, and can be controlled directly from the device as well. The other day I adjusted my schedule a little bit and increased the runtime on a few zones. Is your irrigation controller inside? If not, with the RainMachine you will also need to buy an enclosure to keep it weatherproof, whereas the B-Hyve is built into a weatherproof enclosure.

For garage door automation, there is a great z-wave option on the market. GD00Z-4 that will integrate into whatever hub you get.

Now as far as hubs go, I wouldn't go Wink personally. SmartThings is a bit annoying but it is the most used system on the market and there are some perks to that. You'll see recommendations for running Home Assistant, and that's a solution that requires some tinkering. HomeSeer is great, and if I started over completely I probably would have gone this route, but I have a bunch of zigbee devices, and the recommended way for using Zigbee with HomeSeer is to use another hub (Lightify Hub), and I don't really care for that solution. I'm using Hubitat now, it's an early product and I've had my frustrations with it but I like to tinker so it works for me.

This, yes.

Looked up bug-kill temps, and what you need is 133°F in the center of the wood for 30 minutes. Make it two hours per inch, I'm guessing.

Make a box out of polyiso board and foil tape, and make sure there is good air circulation. A hair dryer might work for circulation and for heat. Control thermostats are pretty cheap.

Either bulbs or ceramic heaters should work just about the same. Best to use a thermostat like this to control the temperature.

Different species like different temperatures. Blue oysters do well in the 55-65 F, pink oysters are a tropical species so they like it considerably warmer. It should be a relatively stable temperature. You could get a space heater and hook it up to a thermostat controller.

Oh, for sure. It's all about the right tool for the right job. Slow cookers are better for braising type applications. Chicken breasts don't braise well.

> And also, just because I like being contrary, all you need to do sous vide is a styrofoam cooler, a thermometer and a zip top bag.

Speaking of right tool for the right job, this is like hammering a nail with a rock. It's possible, but so time and attention consuming, it's hardly worth it.

I have one of these which works great with my slow cooker. They don't work with the fancy programable slow cookers, but who needs one of those anyway. lol

4 different ones.
lights


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C59J8L2

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IVQ96WW

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IVQ96MW

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015FLSOCE


fans


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D8ZC566

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I8Q30SC

clip fan


other stuffs


Frog soil

Smart pots - half 3 gallon half 5 gallon

Advanced nutrients nutrients

hygrometer: https://www.amazon.com/SensorPush-Wireless-Thermometer-Hygrometer-Android/dp/B01AEQ9X9I/

6 inch intake fan from home depot

filter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008NYF8S4

filter fan: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CTM0JF2



strains


1 white widow

1 amnesia haze

2 money bush

2 jack herrer

tent

light comes with hangers... looks complicated to order from alibaba but its not... and 1week delivery. you can also order from HLG in usa or canada but its more expensive. or you could go with a 400w hps from amazon with vented hood, or a 315 cmh.

fan amazing fan (have the 6'' model)

timer with battery built in

filter

temp and humidity

fan

VIVOSUN 4 Inch Air Carbon Filter Odor Control with Australia Virgin Charcoal for Inline Fan, Grow Tent Odor Scrubber, Pre-Filter Included, Reversible Flange 4" x 14" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DXYMBU6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LVqSDbXCFH66J

This was my first carbon filter and it worked well. 35 bucks.

https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-CLOUDLINE-T4-Ventilation/dp/B06ZXWN3BG

Okay 4 plants with good genetics can yield just as much weed as 6 plants with lesser genetics.

So here is what I recommend.

Tent: 4x4 minimum with 5x5 preferred because it gives you room to walk in the tent which saves your back and also gives you room for extra equipment inside the tent, buy Vivosun they are good quality and have excellent zippers.


Seeds/breeders: Dinafem and Dutch Passion are excellent breeders you can buy both from Dinafem.

https://www.dinafem.org/en/

Grow Light: Depending on how large of a yield you want you have several options.

500 Watt Samsung LED.

https://meijiuled.en.alibaba.com/product/62001333924-807906070/Fomex_hlg_550v2_Samsung_lm301b_480w_288_full_spectrum_dimmer_function.html?spm=a2700.icbuShop.41413.8.24d4185dhzMSXW

320 watt Samsung LED.

If you want more than 500 watts in a 4x4 or 5x5 you can buy more than one of these lights and hang them side by side.

https://meijiuled.en.alibaba.com/product/60803100408-807313817/2018_new_products_quantum_board_800_V2_samsung_lm301b_top_bin_full_spectrum_led_grow_light_with_320W_HLG_driver.html?spm=a2700.icbuShop.41413.72.39352189gT0xyF

Ventilation:

Exhaust fan.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074XBXFPD?pf_rd_p=c2945051-950f-485c-b4df-15aac5223b10&pf_rd_r=MZ90W6M80NJB8KY91153

Carbon Filter.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01731MLFK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ducting.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0791V19H7/?coliid=IOTPSB8SN2VX3&colid=2JRQ421G587OR&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Fertilizer/supplements:

https://www.advancednutrients.com/

Misc stuff:

Hygrometer.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HDW58GS/?coliid=I3I7T3XZ9CIWY3&colid=2JRQ421G587OR&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Rope Hangers.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BWQB49J/?coliid=I3UY93HADIWB52&colid=2JRQ421G587OR&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Jewelers Loupe.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077XWJGN4/?coliid=I2Z2SKYZ5WH6JZ&colid=2JRQ421G587OR&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Trimming Scissors.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00114TK46/?coliid=I1DY00ZE56UXO4&colid=2JRQ421G587OR&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Felt Pots.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TF9E6XE/?coliid=I21TH7VWPFRA0E&colid=2JRQ421G587OR&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

TDS Meter.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N2O1Z5B/?coliid=I1SGIRSI7FWY4V&colid=2JRQ421G587OR&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

pH Meter.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M87S9F4/?coliid=I2H2GCFLMBVHM4&colid=2JRQ421G587OR&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Is there anything else I can help you with?

https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-CLOUDLINE-T6-Thermostat/dp/B074XBXFPD/ref=pd_sim_60_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B074XBXFPD&pd_rd_r=GCAH63PT49SY3EY6WADY&pd_rd_w=8pscH&pd_rd_wg=ry4zC&psc=1&refRID=GCAH63PT49SY3EY6WADY

Window Insulation Kit.

Their ugly and a pain in the ass, but they really do reduce the amount of cold coming through your windows. You don't have to cover every window in the house, just the ones that matter, like one right next to your bed or maybe your bathroom.

This is good and here's what I would do.

1. Make sure that the house is 100% yours as /u/catholicwannabe2 has pointed out.
   
   
2. Come up with a plan. You've already noted that siding and carpet are a want. You haven't determined on windows yet, but I'm assuming that they are doing their job for the most part (that is that there is still glass in them that is not broken). If they are leaking maybe get a seal kit until you have enough money to get new ones. Prioritize things you need or want fixed.
   
   
3. Tell your grandma your plan and don't budge from it. There is no point in taking out money on this to go into debt and pay loan fees and what not when it sounds like you could probably save up enough money to fix these within a year or two.

How is the insulation in the place? Maybe convincing the landlord to let you add a few more inches of attic insulation might help.

You could also get thermally insulated blackout curtains. They reject more light and heat than blinds.

If you have single pane windows, consider window insulation film. https://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-5-Window/dp/B00002NCJI

Hardware store should sell kits of plastic you can install on inside of window for added insulation. How old is the house? Earlier than around 1970 and it will have almost no insulation at all.


http://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-5-Window/dp/B00002NCJI

So, there is a bunch you can do. Some of it is dependent on how much you have to spend and what the owner (maybe you, maybe not) is willing to do.

Your most cost effective bet is to a product like this on your windows. This will really cut down on drafts.

You can add drapes that cover much of the walls, which will help, but only marginally. This would be more expensive and should be done on top of the plastic film.

If you don't own the apartment, you can ask your landlord to do something about it, including putting in new windows or blowing in insulation.

As others noted, keep the door opened and make sure your vents are open. You can also use ceiling fans to improve air circulation.

I would generally avoid heaters as they can be fire hazards, but if you have to use one, buy one that is the appropriate size.

Indeed. However, if you've ever lived in a leaky apartment with electric heat, that can result in 3 very high electric bills.

Anyways, in my experience, Austin Energy doesn't help with apartments. Talk to your landlord, they may be able to help.

If you must DIY, which is pretty likely, the film can be obtained via Amazon for notably less than local purchase.

You can also install polyisocyanurate insulation on single-pane windows to further prevent heat transfer. Cut to press-fit into the window frame, then use duck tape to form an air-tight seal around the frame. It's pretty easy to work with, a boxcutter will make clean cuts through it. This helps a lot with through-the-glass heat transfer, but not with leaky window frames. You'll want to use paper to line the insulation (on the outside) to avoid complaints from the landlord, since you want to face the foil outwards for best results.

If you're like me and can't stand the cold, and like your apartment toasty in the winter, look for a unit with gas heat on your next move. Electric heat is way too expensive... Gas is more effective and significantly less expensive.

People normally buy window insulation kits like this. They also sell them in patio door sized sheets, which can easily be cut down to fit most larger tents.

Do you want to let light in?

Then this

Do you want MAXIMUM INSULATION(without actually rebuilding the house)?

Get a few blocks of this stuff and use it to cover your windows.

But really, what you want to do is make sure that your windows are all well caulked, that your doors fit well and things like that.

Cutting down on the air coming into your room around the windows will do a lot for helping keep you nice and toasty this winter.

Use the shrink wrap stuff.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-5-Window/dp/B00002NCJI

If you aren't properly insulated, speace heaters won't help much.

Do you need to use the door? If not, you're better off doing a full plastic liner. Same with the windows

What is a tin window?

Lemme try that not on mobile: you need to buy yourself a Window Insulation Kit and apply it to your windows so that it creates another pocket of air and decreases the rate your house loses warmth. This will save you money on heating bills.

I'm a professional mechanical engineer and a Certified Energy Auditor per the AEE.

Here's a couple things I did for my house that helped. They might help you.

Weatherize the garage: Add a floor threshold to the garage. Best done in the summer. Replace the weather seal on the top and sides. Replace the garage door threshold. All Amazon links. Measure your door and get the correct dimensions. I just linked to general items.

Weatherize your outlets and light switches: All holes through the wall allow tempered air to leak out. (nice warm air in the winter, nice cool air in the summer). With a flathead screwdriver, you can add gasket seals to all of your switches and outlets to reduce air leakage.

Weatherize doors and windows: If there are doors and windows that you don't use often, or don't use for a season, seal them off. If you use a door more frequently, there's lots of draft dodgers to help seal the door. Growing up, if it got super cold, we'd take a spare down comforter and nail it to the wall, totally covering the door.

As far as thermostats go, changing out the thermostat to a wifi thermostat and/or a programmable thermostat will go a long ways towards energy savings. Nest is definitely the best thermostat out there, but I recognize that it's the most expensive. In my opinion, the Nest is the best one because it has the best developed home/away sensors, has a clean and slick easy-to-use app (even for 8 thermostats like you'd have), and easiest to use scheduler. Don't change just one thermostat. Change all of them. At the very least, change the thermostat to a programmable one.

In general, it would help to go through the weatherproofing page of Amazon and buy and install anything that applies to your home and apartment.

As far as capital equipment, replacing boilers with condensing boilers can help, but remember that condensing boilers provide the most savings at the temperature extremes. during shoulder seasons. Consult a local professional mechanical engineer to determine if they will really benefit your location.

edit: had a brain fart when i wrote this. condensing boilers provide the most savings at the shoulder seasons. take a place like Fairbanks, AK, which, aside from this winter, generally spends most of the winter at the design outdoor temperature of -40. a condensing boiler operating at the design limit doesn't provide any more savings than a "standard" 80% AFUE efficient boiler. just doing my part to avoid spreading misinformation on the internet.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-5-Window/dp/B00002NCJI

These save me every year! Seriously!

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-5-Window/dp/B00002NCJI

Available at any home store. Works great, cheap, removable.

Easiest & cheapest way is to get something like this to seal it up for the winter. It's not a permanent fix and you'd have to repeat it each winter, but it does work and work pretty well (especially for what you in Fla would call 'cold' :) )

Yeah, fireplace should be closed up - possible to lose more heat up the chimney than it provides. Is the damper closed? You can also stuff some insulation up into the chimney as a stop gap (don't want heat sucking up out of the house).

Now might be the time to put plastic on your windows. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-5-Window/dp/B00002NCJI

Can make a big difference if your windows are drafty.

Also, curtains. The thicker the better, but any curtains are better than no curtains. Just close 'em up at night and they'll reduce the amount of heat your house radiates out to the night sky through the windows.

Hardware stores, Lowe's, and probably Walmart have cling wrap. Measure your windows before you go, get a wrap a little bigger than the window, and apply with a hairdryer. Honestly, windows are so expensive that it's not worth fighting with your landlord to have them tell you no anyway—not legal advice.

3M 2141BW-6 Indoor Window Insulator Kit, 5-Window https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002NCJI/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_zqJVDbDW0ZH52

Low hanging fruit?? Put some shrink plastic on the windows.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-Windows/dp/B00002NCJI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1481845952&sr=8-3&keywords=window+shrink+film+insulation

The tape may take off paint in the spring so tape where it will be easy to touch up.

Link text.

Depending on how good your windows are, you might consider covering them with a plastic film such as the one linked below. That could help your heat pump keep up in these cold days. You could also get a space heater of some sort to help out in the rooms you are in at the time.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-5-Window/dp/B00002NCJI

They sell plastic sheets with double sided tape... it goes around the window and use a blow dryer to take wrinkles out of plastic, done!

Adds a layer of air insulation. Really helps stop drafts

Edit https://www.amazon.ca/3M-2141W-6-Indoor-Window-Insulator/dp/B00002NCJI/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=window+plastic+insulation+kit&qid=1569944548&sprefix=window+plas&sr=8-4

Sounds like one of those places you could heat and heat and still not be real warm. Those old homes were meant for wood stoves and steam radiators. My grandmother had an old coal boiler in her home and when it was going you'd have to throw open all the windows.

Covering the windows with window plastic should pay for itself. Also, weatherstripping any leaks in exterior doors is fairly easy to DIY.

I would also recommend getting emergency ladders if you cant get down safely from a bedroom window:
Kidde 468093 KL-2S Two-Story Fire Escape Ladder with Anti-Slip Rungs, 13-Foot https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005OU7B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_E07xDbV92QK4V

Find a basic non electronic one.

Oil filled heaters are brilliant BUT the built in thermostats don't work. They can't as they are beside the heat source. Use something like this rated for at least as many watts as your heater is rated for:

https://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8

You can't do this with an electronic model as they will reset, but if you get something like this you can control the thermostat properly. Don't plug it into an outside wall that has poor insulation or you will loose accuracy.

If I understand you correctly, I think you want something like this

This works best if you have great insulation and double-pane windows. We don't...so supercooling just made us cold while it ran, hot while it didn't, and jacked a "normal" $300/mo APS bill to $450+.

That was three years ago. I bought a window mount swamp cooler (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bonaire-Durango-4-500-CFM-3-Speed-Window-Evaporative-Cooler-6280030/204679889) plus a plugin thermostat (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E7NYY8/), plumbed it with black 1/4" irrigation tubing, and haven't looked back since. We now only run the AC the last two weeks of July and all of August. 11/10 with rice, highly recommend.

You're main electrical draws are going to be your major appliances then lighting. Though there isn't really one thing you can do to see a huge decrease in power consumption doing a few things together would be noticeable.

• Turning the temp of you're fridge/freezer up a degree or two always helps, obviously don't go to high or that defeats the purpose.
  
  
• Keeping your blinds drawn, or getting semi transparent blinds, to block out the sun and keep your apartment cooler will help reduce your AC consumption by a lot, which is easily your largest draw during the summer.
  
  
• Using the timer on your AC can actually see a huge improvement, set your AC to turn off about 1/2 way or 3/4 of the way through the night depending on how warm it is out side. If your AC doesn't have this feature you can always pick up something along these lines.
  
  
• Obviously use CFL bulbs, people often complain about CFL bulbs but I think that's just out of misinformation. Unlike Incandescent bulbs there is a HUGE difference between each CFL brand and even bulbs within the same brand. If you're intrested I can go into further detail on this as there is probably a paragraph or two of information.
  
  
• Look into residential rebate programs from your power provider for anything energy efficient. In order to receive a power generation license in the US your provider must have a program in place to reduce their costumers power consumption by 1% annually. They usually do this by offering rebates on energy efficient items. On CFL bulbs this can be a $1-$4 depending on the area, but on larger appliances, such as an energy efficient window ac (or for home owners furnaces and water heaters) the rebates can become pretty substantial.
  
  
• Make sure all of your electronics actually turn off when they're off. For example if you hit the power button once on the Nintendo Wii it just hibernation mode which cuts the power consumption from 18watts to 10watts (not even a 50% reduction!) where as holding the power button turns the unit off and it will only draw 1 watt. You pretty much have to google your electronics to figure this one out. The other fun way (and is useful in other situations as well) is to pick up a Kill-o-watt. These nifty little guys will show you the power draw of whatever is plugged into it, I usually have mine plugged into my fridge or my power strip for my entertainment center. You could plug in your entertainment center power strip and reset the meter before you go to bed to see how much power everything is drawing when you're not using it, you will be surprised!
  
  
• Finally the biggest and hardest one, behavior modification. The biggest waste of power in the world is power not being utilized. I once surveyed a site that had multiple buildings, one of which was vacant. The site didn't realize the lights were coming on in the vacant building because of a timer and had spent $15,000 a year for the last 4 years lighting up an empty building. Make sure to turn off the lights when you're done, take the milk out of the fridge then SHUT the fridge, turn off your electronics when you're are done (or at least hibernate them). These things are the hardest to do but once the habit is formed it won't be an issue.
  
  Off the top of my head that's what I got! If I think of other things I will add them! Also I apologize if some of my numbers are off, I've been out of the industry for a few years now.

This is kind of ghetto, but i use something like this. I run an extension cable into my fridge, then plug that into the extension cord (which is inside the fridge), then plug the fridge into that thing. Once the temp goes over what i set, it turns on the fridge until the temp is acceptible - so if you're looking to add a heating aspect to it i'd recommend another avenue. There are love controllers, PIDs, and some greenhouse stores have other types of temp controllers like the style i use but have an outlet for heat and an outlet for cooling.

It looks like a monster but it's functional... The black cable is the fridge's plug, which is plugged into the controller, which is plugged into the blue extension cord.

I got these light bulbs:Philips 433557 23W 100-watt T2 Twister 6500K CFL Light Bulb, 4-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M6SR1JM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_DzUQEygjjF5D6

And these clamp lights: Woods 0151 150-Watt Clamp Light with 8.5-Inch Reflector and 18/2 SPT 6-Foot-Cord https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HHQ94C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_zblHwmbXUOgSL

I scoured the interwebs for this info and I'm hoping they give my plants some better lighting! I've got them clamped to some heavy square pots that are laying on their sides. It's a tiered shelf but the tier right above my plants would be too close to clamp the lights to and I think they'd get burnt.

Why does it have to be an LED? If you you want cheap, this is my suggestion and what I use.

Lamp https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HHQ94C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bulb https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005P29K1S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

+1 for the lanshan. They’re also on amazon (yes, it’s the same tent. Mier is just a rebrand)

MIER Ultralight Tent 3-Season Backpacking Tent for 1-Person or 2-Person Camping, Trekking, Kayaking, Climbing, Hiking (Trekking Pole is NOT Included), White, 2-Person https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F8S54NH/

For a UL ground sheet get some polycro and cut to size.

Duck Brand Indoor Extra Large Window/Patio Door Shrink Film Kit, 84-Inch x 120-Inch, 282450 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NHW2Z6/

That's just stupid. Anyone in that school could obtain and install a window insulating kit for about $8 as a (literal) stopgap solution.

the ground sheet you saw in the tarp video is polycro. lightweight and pretty tough. You can buy it as a window insulation kit like this on the cheap and cut to size. It should be in 1-2oz range. Tyvek is the other option at 4-5oz

A link for the lazy. $5 for a 7x10 (patio door size) sheet.

Which footprint option would you use for the 1p tartptent notch? I believe the actual bathtub is around 34" wide x 8-9 feet.

I have this 84" x 120" window polycro that I bought intending to use for a 2p tent, and could probably cut it in two, but might want something more durable for car camping.

I realize it doesn't -need it-, but I'm trying to avoid getting mud on the bottom of my tent so I can keep the time cleaning it down.

Currently under $3 with free shipping as an addon item.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NHW2Z6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yeah, thats not how things are done here at all! If you have drafty windows you either pay out your ass for heating bills or you cover them in shrink wrap.

https://www.amazon.com/Duck-5-Window-Insulator-210-Inch-281504/dp/B000NHY1P0/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542554177&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=window+insulation+kit&dpPl=1&dpID=51MwulMV-xL&ref=plSrch something like this .. helps a lot

Absolutely. They actually make window plastic kits.

For example, Duck Brand Indoor 5-Window Shrink Film Insulator Kit, 62-Inch x 210-Inch, 281504 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NHY1P0/

Polycro makes a good ground sheet. Here's a good source

I've had good results with this, and it's waaaay cheaper than hiring someone: Epoxy Refinishing Kit

There are special 2 part epoxy paints that are used for this.

We used this paint to refinish a green bathtub, and it was easy to apply, and looked great until it started to scratch, peel, etc.

It is super smelly and requires proper ventilation and a respirator type mask.

The smallest little buddy heater would probably be sufficient:

little buddy

You are better off focusing on bundling up and getting a nice sleeping bag.

You can go with a Mr Heater Little Buddy, but you have to accept the risk of possibly dying. The propane heaters also give off a ton of moisture so you're going to wake up to a rain forest in your car.

If you want to go upscale you can get a Webasto parking heater. Popular in places where you want to pre-heat your car before you get in. Expensive.

Good point, I misread your post. However, you can build a wood stove very inexpensively using a 55 gallon drum (strip the paint and use BBQ paint on it) and one of these kits

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IO6RAA/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_5?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

I also recommend doing some research on how these stoves work. A stove like this isn't technically meant for residential use, but if it's for emergencies you can make it work.

Just don't keep it inside normally because if you do have a house fire, your insurance will try to blame it on the stove even if you didn't use it.

A more expensive option is something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232000-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B002G51BZU/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=mr+buddy&qid=1566929981&s=gateway&sr=8-1

You'd have to stockpile propane throughout the year

If you are in an apartment you may not have some of the options for winterproofing that people are outlining below. Get to Home Depot or your local hardware store and look for Window Insulators or weather kits. Something like this kit. Basically it's a sheet of plastic that you tape to the edges of your window and seal/smooth with a hair dryer. I've had to do this in my apartments and it makes an IMMENSE difference if you have drafty windows. Be careful when removing them in the spring so you don't pull off paint.

Maybe get some of that insulating film for windows? You stretch it over the window (or in your case, the screen) and then use a hair dryer to smooth out any wrinkles or stretch marks.

Get yourself that shrink plastic film to make an interior storm window. And get some weatherstripping for the door. Electricity is expensive heat and you don't want to waste it.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-5-Window/dp/B00002NCJI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1415745224&sr=8-3&keywords=plastic+film+for+windows

Depending on the size/shape of the windows, a product like this might do the trick. https://www.amazon.ca/3M-2141W-6-Indoor-Window-Insulator/dp/B00002NCJI

You can find them by searching for Window insulator kit.

It’s double sided tape and plastic film. You put it in place, then hit it with a hair dryer to make the plastic shrink. When it is all tight it’s mostly invisible.

Omniheat technology from Columbia Sportswear. Highly recommend. Get the jacket, and the snow shoes. Lightweight but super warm because it reflects your own body heat back at you.

https://www.columbia.com/

​

Plastic on the windows is a great energy saver

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-5-Window/dp/B00002NCJI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1538434915&sr=8-2&keywords=plastic+window+covering+for+winter

​

At least 2 ice scraper/snow brush combo tools. One in the car and one in your home

An electric throw blanket for the couch

Mug warmer for tea/coffee at your desk or also home

​

​

​

>temporarily this winter

Install a window insulation film on the trim.

For permanent, that window looks fairly old. Do you have access under the deck if you want to seal it off, or to replace the window and seal it from the outside?

> We would be improving the value of the house and improve the insulation with good windows

How much are you expecting to save per year in power cost and how much would it increase the home value? I don't think it's wise to sink $10-15k unless you know exactly when it will pay itself off.

You can address the efficiency issue in the short term with these while you save up for replacement windows.

buy some of that insulated clear plastic that goes over the windows.

Like this:
http://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-5-Window/dp/B00002NCJI

Put plastic weather seals on all of the windows in the two cold rooms. http://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-5-Window/dp/B00002NCJI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415047492&sr=8-1&keywords=plastic+weather+window+seal

Air seal your windows with plastic if they are even a little drafty using something like a window sealing kit: https://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-5-Window/dp/B00002NCJI

Get a electric blanket for your bed: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005J9CEW4

Put a blanket on the water heater too: https://www.amazon.com/Frost-King-SP60-Insulation-Blanket/dp/B000DZKW4G

Get yourself a few of these and you’ll be dialed.

First question, do you own or rent the condo? This will play a major role in what you can or cannot do.

For windows, you can get a window insulation kit to put around the windows. This creates an air barrier between the window and the film that acts as insulation.

>Is there a way to figure out where the inneficiencies are in the house, other than running your hand around the joints and feel for air. And how can I fix them?

If you own the condo, look into your local electric company and see if they offer any sort of home energy audit. Worst case, you could pay to have one done. They typically run a blower door test and can determine where the leaks are with a smoke machine or puffer. They may also use a FLIR camera to look for signs of leaks due to temperature differences. They will suggest fixes for the house, and offer up what you can expect to save vs what it will cost you to do the repairs.

Have you tried plastic sealing the windows? It REALLY helps. Not the right size, but you get the idea. No damage and easy to remove in the spring when you want to use the window.

You had a crazy day, I hope you can relax a bit!

The 2 principles you need to understand in insulating a house are conduction and convection. To (over) simplify, if you place your hand against something, a door, window, wall, ceiling, floor, and it is notably colder than the ambient air of the house, then it is conducting the cold. (Actually, it's conducting the heat out of the house, and leaving cold behind, but never mind the distinction.) But if you have an actual air transfer, there's a draft anywhere, then that's convection. Warm air is leaving, cold air is entering.

Windows and doors are considered the main culprits of heat loss not necessarily because of conduction, but because of convection. They don't seal the opening tight enough, and air leaks by them. So this is the first thing you look for, is places where the air is leaking past or through something. And it's not always the windows and doors. Finding and sealing them is your first priority. Now that may be the windows and doors if they are of poor quality, or not the best possible installation. But that's generally not true of a 10-15 year old window, and you've had them inspected. If a window is leaking air around the panes, then the interior glass may feel a lot colder not because it's conducting cold, but because the convection around it is cooling the interior of it.

Windows and doors will also conduct heat/cold. But so will walls, foundations, and ceilings. If someone in your area does an energy audit inspection, you might want to do that, in order to find which is your house's weakest points. And then concentrate your efforts and costs there first.

If your windows are leaking air, then the simplest, easiest, least costly, short term fix is clear window covering plastic. Which you put on in the winter and remove in the summer. If your windows are conducting cold, then heavy drapes, like the other user said, will reduce airflow past the window, and reduce the problem. That's less work and cost, and a less permanent change than what I think the shutters you're talking about would be. And then eventually change the windows.

But you should also be looking into other sources of heat loss. They may matter more.

As to your patio door, older sliding glass doors have a habit of not being very air tight. Having a closed porch beyond it would help. Switching from a sliding door to a hinged glass door would probably provide better air seals. Or you could put a plastic sheet over the whole thing for the winter.

Putting another 6-8 inches of insulation in the attic is often one of the cheapest improvements you can make. Reinsulating the walls can be costly, but in an older house can make a lot of difference. Sealing any gap where the house meets the foundation is an overlooked, but important step. As is insulating basement walls.

For about $20, you can get this. It's enough to do 5 3'x 5' windows. Or you can buy the tape by itself.

Graffiti artist here, it really depends on where it is. Usually we climb, sometimes these fire escape ladders are used, and sometimes the graffiti is old, and there used to be a structure or platform below it, that has since got removed. Sorry if that wasn't very clear I'm at a [7]

I got a drop down ladder from Amazon for about $30 and the case worker was okay with that and it just sits in the closet in the child's room. We rent so I needed something less permanent.

Here is the link to the one I got Kidde KL-2S Two-Story Fire Escape Ladder with Anti-Slip Rungs, 13-Foot https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005OU7B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_UyeNxbD6NCBJV

For shorter distances I'd get this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00005OU7B/ref=mh_s9_acsd_top_bDLKN_c_x_1_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-11&pf_rd_r=57GF9F6FNAN9E0JWA20G&pf_rd_t=30901&pf_rd_p=9e9154c1-0b62-558c-85e4-67b673122acb&pf_rd_i=3180251

Mine was in the same condition. I rewired the fridge with a thermostat AC controller for around 40 bucks... http://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1322063771&sr=8-1

The controller maintains the temp so I'm not as concerned with a bad seal (granted I'm still doing Ales and keepign it around 65 to 70 degrees). I've managed nearly a dozen brews with this and haven't had issues. I expected some condensation but haven't seen any moisture.

Thanks, man. The fan is a Lasko 4000 Air-Stik Ultra-Slim Oscillating Fan. It's perfect for a micro grow.

My tent sits in near-outdoor conditions, so I have to keep temps up. The smaller device is a Lasko MyHeat Personal Ceramic Heater controlled by a Lux WIN100 Heating & Cooling Programmable Outlet Thermostat. It pushes enough heat to keep temps as high as ambient +30.

I have this

http://www.amazon.com/WIN100-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8/

to use with a window AC with no thermostat. Though typically it runs for 2-3 mins, turns off for 10, on for 2-3 min, etc. , which is a little annoying.

But I mostly just use my window fan pointing at me.

I used a Danby wine fridge somewhat like this, and recently got a similar but wider model from KitchenAid. Granted, I use these to control fermentation temp, rather than as a kegerator.

1. I have never had a huge problem with the icing/ I can attribute this to Arizona's dry air, and also a fan I keep in back. It largely eliminates the ice. It keeps the temperature much more uniform.
   
   
2. Get a fan and a temperature controller. I use some shitty <$10 fan and it is good enough, and this temp controller. It is nice in that no wiring is needed other than maybe an extension cable or two. It will keep your fridge +/- 1 degree F.
   
   Something else I learned the hard way... put something under it. If something happens and you have a leak or otherwise a spillage, it can get nasty. I am looking at getting a tray like those used under other appliances to prevent further disasters.

You can get theses things that you can hook an A/C unit up to and will turn on at set temperature and turn of at another. http://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8/ref=sr_1_sc_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1406648156&sr=8-2-spell&keywords=temperature+pkug

Use a themostat...lol

Like this http://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8

Plug your fan in, when it hits a certain temp it will turn on or off depending on the settings.

Without seeing your set up I don't know if my suggestion will work but either point your landlord in this direction or just order one yourself:

https://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539879277&sr=8-3&keywords=plug+in+thermostat&dpID=313Eh1W4f3L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Pretty simple and straightforward. I use that exact model for a bread proofing box I made out of it, a cooler, and a light bulb.

We use a plug with a thermostat rather than a thermostat on the heater. Works great for us and can also be used with a fan to keep a room cool but shut off when it gets too cold. Have been using it in the kids room for 4 years with nothing but great results.

Lux WIN100 Heating & Cooling Programmable Outlet Thermostat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E7NYY8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_IV8XBb7JHBTQ8

I was running this LG ACoutside of a 5x5x8 tent and it kept it plenty cool enough. It comes with some in window mounts and a exhaust duct. I had to do some clever rigging on the front in to some flexible ducting and ran that inside the tent to a diffuser. To control the temperature I ran a power cord to this thing and put that inside the tent. I never really found the best place to put it I just kind of had it hanging in the middle. I then had to run the AC's power cord inside the tent to connect to the temperature controller. It all worked very well when I needed it ! I do wish the temp controller had a 'range' you could put on it. It seemed like the AC was off and on a lot so theres prolly a better way to do that! Anyways good luck! oh and here is some PICTURES of how I ducted the cold air

Oh I didn't realize it plugs in
You want this or something like it. Just plug that into your outlet, plug your wireless switch into that. It will make it so that the switch will not operate or get power until the temperature drops to whatever value you enter.

Hopefully that works for you as it will be entirely plug and play and take less than 5 minutes to set up.

I was going to suggest that first but didn't know if you wanted the cost of running a wall unit. A new, efficient little 5000btu unit shouldn't cost too much to run though.

Something like this though would allow you to set it to only run once it's reached a certain temperature and shut back off when your desired temperature is reached. https://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8

Here is my outdoor setup. I no longer have a bucket, so this is what i use in my box now.

If temp falls below 62- then my heater kicks on and goes til about 82
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Comfort-Zone-5-120-BTU-Multi-Purpose-Ceramic-Heater-Black-CZ442WM/21899614

At 78 my fan turns on and i have is set lower to be less loud. So the heater will turn off while the fan is on exchanging my air out. Once its below 78 the fan turns off and we wait til the heater kicks on again. But the HPS puts off enough to keep it warm usually


http://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1417395131&sr=8-13&keywords=temperature+controller

http://www.amazon.com/VenTech-VTSPEED-Variable-Router-Controller/dp/B00EVYGPJQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417395084&sr=8-2&keywords=inline+fan+controller

For those who are super lazy.

I've used the small oil filled heaters with a plugin thermostat for when it gets way too cold like these

http://www.amazon.com/Homebasix-CYPB-7-Filled-Radiator-Watts/dp/B001GDIXVI/

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E7NYY8

I think the IR blaster is more error prone than a thermostat power plug. I would just wire the power plug in series with another zigbee power plug that smart things can turn off if the door has been open for more than 5 minutes.

https://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8

The AC will only run if the door is closed and the room is too warm.

I have a shelf in my basement that I put a door on. I covered the walls of it in styrafoam and added an outlet thermostat. To this I plugged in a heater.

Keeps the wort fermenting at just the right temp all winter. Summertime is a crapshoot, but my basement usually stays under 70 even without AC. With AC it works just like the winter since ambient is about 65.

Mine holds two fermenting buckets at a time. I'm sure you could make a simple wooden box and do the same thing.

Due to the rules of house power outlets all space heaters are created pretty much equal as far as heat output. I have this little guy and quite like it.

I also got one of these to plug it in to so that it would have my room warm for me when I got home from work, but not waste power all day or while I sleep.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007Q3RQ6

Looks interesting. I am particularly amazed with the $36 thermostat-based outlet control module that amazon recommended at the same time as looking at the AirKing.
http://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8

Here's an idea. Buy a programmable outlet thermostat so the fans only turn on and off when needed. Just set the temperature and let the thermostat do the rest!

I just googled "plug thermostat" and this was the first result. Not sure if your in the US.


https://www.amazon.com/Lux-Automatic-Programmable-Thermostat-Compatible/dp/B000E7NYY8

Probably wrong sub but one of these would work for you
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E7NYY8/

Im actually still using 2008 on my host, and 2012 on the VM's. I havent gotten around to upgrading the host, but im hoping to do it soon.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E7NYY8/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I want one of these:

https://m.lowes.com/pd/GE-20-2-cu-ft-Frost-Free-Upright-Freezer-White/50343450

Hooked up to one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000E7NYY8/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The thermostat would have to be mounted inside the freezer to keep internal temperature at whatever is ideal for the plants. Most upright freezers even come with a lock on the door!

Hmm... the container is a plastic storage box I had lying around at home which I spraypainted black. The container was less than $5 if I recall correctly. Black spraypaint (make sure to get one which is designed to adhere to plastic) was about $5.

Air pump is this guy which was about $15.

Light is one of these bulbs, housed in one of these reflectors. $18 and $11 respectively.

Then the air stone, clay pebbles, net pots, air tubing, etc were all leftovers I had lying around.

All told maybe $50?

Both work great. Florescents are cheap upfront. LEDs cost more, but last longer and use a little less electricity for the same output. It is really just a decision of if you want to spend your money now or later.

Another consideration is that led grow lights tend to be red/blue. It makes them very efficient grow lights, but might be off putting if it is in a living space.

Whatever you get, a light stand would allow you to move it easily.

The cheapest/easiest thing that might work would be to buy A clamp light and a High Power CFL

Ignore this next bit. ~~But if you really want it to flourish, I'd be looking at a 2ft 4 bulb T5 lamp or a ~100W led array plus a light stand.
Beware of advertised wattages on LEDs(especially cheaper models). Most manufacturers advertise the maximum power and then actually drive the leds with much less.~~

Edit: No matter what you get, don't forget an outlet timer. You are going to want to automate turning the light on/off. Also all links above are just examples they may not be the best thing/best deal.

They're similar to this (https://www.amazon.com/Woods-8-5-Inch-Reflector-150-Watt-6-Foot/dp/B000HHQ94C/ref=sr_1_sc_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1474126402&sr=8-2-spell&keywords=aluminum+reflector+lght). I have four of them with identical bulbs. I also have a light stand that I set up in front of the opening. I bounce that light off a piece of white poster board.

Something like this would be great for that! Might need to do something to diffuse the light a bit, a coffee filter would work nicely!

I was in the same position few weeks ago till I read this post


Son bought me 3 of these lamps and my plants couldn't be happier.


Another post which is very helpful to get a grasp of lighting.


Good luck and Happy New Year!

This is the small booklight type. Your plant will most likely outgrow this in a few years.

This is probably what you'll need for the long term. You'll need to hang it, but your plant won't outgrow this one. Use one of those curly bulbs for it.

So I started with several of these and they did absolutely nothing: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E79J9HE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then I went to these fixtures and they were better than the clip lights above:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HHQ94C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

With these bulbs:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B015G9N3S0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Now, I'm using this for most of them:
http://www.gardeners.com/buy/stack-n-grow-light-system/8590134RS.html#start=2
This came with T5HO bulbs - I found it on clearance or I wouldn't have been able to afford it.

And, I'm using this: http://www.horticulturesource.com/product_info.php?products_id=18197&gclid=CPTjkKW2uNECFdWLswod5ngIyA

for my tall Crassula compacta - this light is my favorite!

1.) It smells, it's strong, and the smell carries very easily - I would try to use a carbon filter with a vent even though you're growing in an outhouse.

4.) I put 4 cfls on the sides of my plants by clipping them to the corner poles of my tent with these. I know you don't have tent poles to clip to, but I'm sure you would figure something out. I swear by it as I use 23w (actual) bulbs so I'm basically adding just under 100 extra watts for flower

Yes, 72" X 60" seems short for a ground cloth. Also, I think polycro comes in different thicknesses so make sure to get something appropriate. I've been using this stuff, .7 mil and 120" X 84" allows me to cut it into 2 1P groundsheets.

I used this: http://www.amazon.com/Duck-282450-Indoor-84-Inch-120-Inch/dp/B000NHW2Z6/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1465264256&sr=1-2&keywords=Sliding+glass+door+insulator+kit

It's twice as thick, still crazy light, more area and so far pretty tough. I ToughTaped the edges and ridge line, threw some nylon grommets in for tie outs and have had no troubles, granted for only 6 or so nights out. I pitched mine in the yard for two weeks before use and it got all manner of stormy spring weather thrown at it with no damage. I was (am) planning to make a silpoly version but haven't felt the need yet. That said I'm no thru-hiker, and if weather forecasts look too hairy I just reschedule.

• Daypack
  
• Footprint
  
• Use mug as bowl
  
• Uniqlo Airism Boxers

I'm a motorcyclist - and that's one of the things that drove me toward the ultracompact side of ultralight. I'd suggest 1.5mil Polycryo footprint which is double the thickness of usual 0.75mil stuff, and a NeoAir ground pad inflated with the trash bag method which I find quick and easy (and use a much smaller/lighter trash bag than the video).

Got this few months back. Highly recommend it!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NHW2Z6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you have old thin windows check into something like this.
http://www.amazon.com/Duck-281504-Indoor-5-Window--210-Inch/dp/B000NHY1P0/

Air seal your windows

Frost King B2 Mortite Caulking Cord 19-ounce 90-Foot Long, Grey https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LNODSQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_l01WBbJ6PPGSZ

Duck Brand Indoor 5-Window Shrink Film Insulator Kit, 62-Inch x 210-Inch, 281504 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NHY1P0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_L01WBbTRWFW1E

So the issue wasn't that the tape that held the two halves together came apart, but rather the tie-out tabs that were stuck to seaming tape came off. It was actually made of one big sheet but the dimension of the polycro were strange such that to make a ~8x10ish tarp you had to cut and rotate the halves. I think it might have come out to 8.25 x 10.5 in the end, and the sheet was like 5.5 x 17 feet long.

In the end it ended up being a great shelter, just not one that I wanted to worry on any more.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NHY1P0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NHY1P0?pc_redir=1413694114&robot_redir=1

You can get it at Home Depot, Crappy Tire, etc. The tape won't remove paint, and you use a hair dryer to tighten the plastic sheeting, think shrink wrap. If you don't particularly care for the light, I've also stuck some Styrofoam sheeting (also available at the depot) in before using this over top.

I lived in a poorly built farm house a while back. It had an electric furnace and an air exchanger, not to mention a fireplace. That was a trifecta of useless heating options, our hydro was running around $700/m and we couldn't bring the house above 60 on a nice day. There was a long chat with the landlord, that he didn't like.

Unless your place is old, like pre-50's it's probably a window and door draft problem and not a general wall insulation problem. Though if it's a house the attic insulation may benefit from a top up. (Don't get involved in that, it's at minimum incredibly unpleasant and at most a way to learn about asbestos.)

Use this stuff:

http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-7860519-Refinishing-2-Part-White/dp/B000PTSBKW

I used it on my stained shower pan, and it made it like new. Follow the directions TO THE LETTER.

I'm going to try this on my acrylic bathtub.
I have the same style sink as you in my kitchen, so I'm going to use that too. I think it's worth a try. Also, I would probably youtube a few videos before attempting it.

Edit: Seems like a few people have fixed cracks just like yours. (Check out the review pictures.)

You might be interested in this tub paint.

I painted porcelain wall tile in our bathroom that was avocado green about 2 years ago and it's held up brilliantly.

I used this stuff

My fiance recently did our toilet and tile with no experience. We did take a free tiling class at a local store. It was a nice hands-on class and they gave us 20% off of all of the equipment. Borrow equipment (float, trowel, mixer) from friends and family if you don't plan on tiling again in the future.

We bought a really nice Toto toilet from homeclick.com for less than $200. There was free shipping and no sales tax. My dad has purchased two toilets from them (both Toto) with no issues.

If you can't afford a new tub now and the issue is mostly cosmetic, Rustoleum makes a tub and tile paint that works pretty well. I purchased from Amazon here. It's a good way to put off the really large purchases (tile and the needed supplies can be expensive). To give you an idea of cost, we tiled the floor of a 30 sf room with high-quality tile and it was over $400 for the cement, mat (we used the mat instead of backer board), grout, tile, and supplies.


We put the tile in before placing the toilet. We didn't replace our tub, but there isn't any tile under it, it just goes up the edge and there's a line of caulk.

This one has good reviews and seems fairly simple to apply.

http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-7860519-Refinishing-2-Part-White/dp/B000PTSBKW/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top#productDetails

I used two kits of this on my dark pink tub about a year ago and it doesn't show any wear yet. http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-7860519-Refinishing-2-Part-White/dp/B000PTSBKW/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426613305&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=rustoleum+bath+refinder

I realize it may begin to wear eventually - but we will probably sell the house later this year. If I knew I was going to be in a house for more than ten years, I'd go for professional resurfacing - but for my purposes the DIY worked great. Just be sure to ventilate and follow the directions to a T. Read the amazon reviews and understand the process before you jump in.

Good luck!

I just did this, and I used this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PTSBKW/

Basically, it's a 2-part epoxy paint which you brush on (they also have a spray paint version). It comes in 3 colors, white, almond, and bisque.

It'll take a lot of prep work, you basically need to clean the entire bathroom several times over, and scrape off all old paint and such from the tiles. It also smells really bad, I had to take breaks every 5 minutes, and that was with a heavy duty rebreather mask. It will probably smell worse for longer if you go with the spray paint version.

It came out quite nice though, and it seems to be holding up well.

Aha! I found the source of global warming!


https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F215100-3800-BTU-Propane/dp/B001CFRF7I/ref=br_lf_m_8pouqr5ksg8u7ry_img?_encoding=UTF8&s=home-garden

Right? It sounds like a really bad idea to have a propane heater in a tent but you’d be surprised how many websites recommend it. This amazon one has a lot of recommendations but I’d be way too scared to try that.

Buy a DC powered mini fridge. Running an AC mini fridge takes more power and there is power loss by going through the inverter. A DC powered fridge can run as low as 30-40W. One like this.

If you drive enough (every day, an hour plus) an isolator to charge your battery will most likely be enough.

Since you are only planning on doing this for a short while, you don't need the nicest batteries. Costco has 160Ah deep-cycle lead acid batteries for less than $100. I'd reccomend one of those, maybe two. Remember, you can only discharge your batteries about 50%, so a 160Ah battery actually only gives you 80Ah of capacity. Also, the battery takes longer to charge the more charge it currently has, so the last 5-10% to top it off takes longer than the previous 5-10% etc.

I wouldn't use an electric heater, they are very inefficient. Without a more robust power/battery/charging solution you won't get much use out of it. Consider a propane heater and adequete ventilation. Something like this will provide more than enough heat for a space as small as an F150 bed.

For charging your laptop/phone/devices, you'll only need a small inverter. Remember that with a DC fridge you won't be running it off the inverter. I reccomend getting one 400W or smaller. The higher the Wattage on your inverter, the more power it wastes just by being on, so you want the smallest possible inverter for your needs.

F150's have pretty large engine bays. You may even be able to get away with putting your deep-cycle storage battery under the hood instead of using up space in your bed/living area for it.

I'd highly reccomend getting a small power bank to charge your phone and other small devices. You can plug the power bank into any wall outlet to charge it while you're at work, at a coffee shop, whatever. I have one that is 22,000mAh and I charge it while at work. With a full charge it will re-charge my phone enough times for me to use the phone 2-3 days without worry. With a 5 hour charge (a shift at work) it will charge my phone 1.5-2ish times. This reduces your reliance on your onboard electrical system in your truck, leaving more battery capacity reserved for running your fridge.

Also get LED some lights that run off DC power. It's a waste of energy to run lights off AC through your inverter.

Lastly, do a little math. Let's say you end up with a fridge that runs at 40W. 40W % 12V = 3.33A x 24hrs = 80Ah. Assuming you're running the fridge 24 hours a day you'd be using the full discharge capacity of your 160Ah battery every day, and that's without taking loss into account. I'm pretty sure those fridges will cycle on/off so it doesn't actually draw a full 40W at all times, but keep these things in mind. Make a plan based on how often you will drive, how fast your alternator charges your battery, and how often you plan on keeping the fridge on. I think you'd be crazy to use a standard mini fridge that draws 156W and runs of AC power.

Good luck have fun!

Maybe a Mr. Heater Little Buddy. They run off those small propane tanks.

We haven't experienced "storm" wind with it, but that Utah trip was kinda windy at night one of the nights, so we strung up the guy lines and that kept it very sturdy. I will also note that the "front porch" windows of the tent don't "zipper-seal" along the top. Those windows zip-up on the sides, then have a little fastener to keep the flap closed at the top (maybe you can see this in my pic above, of the inside of the tent.) This tent is far from air-tight, but it's not a bad thing since we use one of these occasionally.

I personally thought this one linked was overkill. I purchased the mr buddy mini, had a 100 sq ft coverage area.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CFRF7I/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And the reviews say they are very tip-able, but I thought that was way off base. I think they are pretty sturdy.

I have used the kerosene heater. They put out quite a bit of heat. Another option is the Mr. Heater propane powered version, such as https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232000-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B002G51BZU/ref=pd_lpo_201_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=7BW0P4QYEMBXB8MS7WVD

Safety around kids is another matter all together. Even wood stoves, space heaters, and radiators aren't safe around them due to the burn hazard. All I can say is that most kerosene heaters and Mr. Heater propane heaters have tip sensors that will shut them off if knocked over. The burn hazard will exist for almost any heat source.

Regarding garage heating, I use this indoor propane heater in conjunction with this 240 V heater.

I run them both when it's really cold (0 deg F), or when I first get out in the garage. If it's warmer outside (down to ~30 deg F) or the garage is up to temp, I just run the electric one to avoid the hassle of having to get tank refills. The total cost is less than $300, including a new propane tank and wiring in the 240 V outlet, and works well for me.

I have something like this heater for camping when it gets cold. Also got an adapter to refill the little tanks from a big one. Seems to work well and fairly cost efficient.

The dorm should have plenty of backup power solutions to provide power during an outage right? If you insist though this is what I would buy: https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232000-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B002G51BZU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478532852&sr=8-1&keywords=buddy+heater

I have been batting around the idea of building an EV myself for a long time. I have a DIY electric motorcycle which is a fun project and gets commuting use occasionally but is mostly for fun. The way things are now, though, I really doubt I would build my own EV for any reason other than fun. There are so many cheap, cheap used EVs on that market that just work without all the headaches of a DIY project (believe me- they will ALWAYS have headaches- you will never, ever have 100% reliability with a DIY EV). Used, degraded-battery Leaves or i-MIEVs would meet your needs and are available for less than $8000 in many places. There would be no AWD/4x4, but I suspect that either of those cars with good snow tires would perform well in the snow if the roads aren't covered with all 18 inches.


Would modifying an EV scratch your DIY itch? Perhaps adding some heating capacity to a Leaf or i-MIEV. I have thought it'd be a good project to add a propane heater to an EV, like this one, which I own. It provides instant heat, does not produce carbon monoxide, and is safe to use indoors. The tip sensor would be the one tricky bit- it shuts off if tipped even slightly and going around a corner or accelerating/decelerating could do it. I wouldn't prefer a diesel heater because of the smell and fumes, personally, whereas the propane one is odorless. I have the hose to hook mine up to a 20lb barbecue tank for use in the house during power outages. The other problem would be moisture buildup- the propane gets turned into CO2 and water- and that water will want to turn into condensation in your windows. Still worth trying, I think. Maybe I'll try it in my Prius sometime.


If you REALLY want to build your own snow-monster EV, I would start with whatever gas vehicle would be your choice for the conditions. Since your range requirements are so low, choosing a light, aerodynamic vehicle isn't as important. Don't go for a land-barge though- maybe an older Jeep Cherokee (XJ) in good condition, or a compact truck with 4x4. Compact pickups have been popular for EV conversions because of the easy mounting for the batteries. I'd be partial to an older vehicle with fewer computers, and probably 4x4 with a manual transfer case rather than anything AWD since I suspect that'd be more complicated. Again, I would caution you that unless you are extremely technically savvy, building your own EV is going to be a challenge of finding and fixing all the little problems that will, in all likelihood, take years to sort out and be a constant time-drain. I won't say it's impossible, but do want to advise you about the kind of commitment you'd be making for building and debugging.

Edit: Which Jeep

I have a Mr. Heater Buddy heater. I use it in my tiny camper and it heats the place up in 10 - 15 minutes. I have to turn it on and off again to keep from turning my place into a sauna. Typically, I'll run it for 10 minutes and off for 20. So I run it three or four times before I go to bed and then turn it on when I get up in the morning to take the chill off. Now that it's winter, I go through a bottle of propane about once a week.

I also have a carbon monoxide detector in my camper. In all the time I've used the heater, the only time it registered on my detector, was at the end of a bottle when it was not burning completely for a few minutes. My CM detector registered 31 but never went off. I opened the top vent and it went back to 0 in two or three minutes. The heater is frikin' fantastic. I consider it very safe and am not worried at all about oxygen depletion.

https://smile.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232000-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B002G51BZU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482855391&sr=8-1&keywords=mr+heater+buddy

I have that one, rarely used but it's rated as indoor safe. YMMV, I expect a comment shortly stating I'm on borrowed time. If you have an electrical hookup just get a ceramic heater.

Why not just get one of those little Mr. Heaters? It'd be a hell of allot cheaper than 2 marine batteries and wouldn't require all the backend stuff to make it work.

These work well especially when boondocking (and a great backup when no 120v is available)

Air out as normal and run the heater for a minute?

Anyone here wanna share some links or info on the material they use? I have used ducks brand window insulation that seemed alright, but I'd like to get some other input. I think I used this. Made a large tarp tent using a very basic rectangular shape. I left it out in the sun to preshrink it so it wouldn't shrink out in the field.

Here you go

Edit: just changed the link since the 10 window is twice as much and a buck cheaper

I believe this is the wrap he is referring to. Is that the one that is 40$ for you?

Polycro is objectively more fragile than Tyvek. It It really a matter of opinion regarding its weight-to-function ratio.
Pros:

• MUCH lighter
  
  
• More packable
  
  
• Cheap (maybe not quite as cheap as Tyvek)
  
  
• Easily resizable
  
  Cons:
  
  
• So light that the wind bitch-slaps it around
  
  
• More fragile, but will/can last a thru hike with care
  
  
• Slightly less available than Tyvek.
  
  
  I used Tyvek for the PCT because it was more reliable to continuously cowboy camp on. It kept my Xlite from ever popping, but that's not to say that polycro would have done the same!
  
  YMMV

Have you tried one of those window sealing kits? https://www.amazon.com/Duck-10-Window-Insulator-420-Inch-281506/dp/B002GKC2GW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1538260548&sr=8-4&keywords=window+seal+kit

It comes in a kit and it's not expensive.

Along the same lines as this, get something to block the bottom of the doors leading outside, there can be a pretty decent draft underneath that can be eliminated. Ceiling fans too, if you've got them, make sure they are reversed.

Edit: Here's a guide to how they should rotate..

>During winter heating, to help move warm air that is trapped on the ceiling, blades should turn 'forward' in a clockwise motion. This movement will push up the air and pull the warm trapped air down the sides of the room improving heat distribution.

>During hot summer weather, to help produce a comfortable breeze or 'windchill' that cools the skin, blades should rotate in a 'reverse' counter-clockwise motion. The air movement has the same comfortable effect as when you fan yourself with a magazine to get relief from hot, stifling air.

Duck Brand is $1 less for twice the plastic.

• ($160) MLD Monk Tarp in DCF + ground sheet (assuming you use trekking poles, and assuming on your duo trips your partner has their own shelter
  
• ($410) Katabatic Palisade
  
• ($160 when in stock) Gossamer Gear Kumo
  
  These are my suggestions. This is an awesome setup and will save you some change for other gear when you realize that you need it!
  
  Could dump more money into a larger tarp or other shelter if you need to provide shelter for you and a partner.

Have you considered using these?
https://www.amazon.ca/Duck-281506-10-Window-Insulator-420-Inch/dp/B002GKC2GW

You need to understand why your windows are drafty.

There's typically 3 reasons --

• Air leaks - the window is not air tight
  
  The first is the one you are probably aware of, if the windows have unfilled cracks, don't close tightly, then you are going to have air blowing in on you. You need to make the window air-tight for this problem. This is fixed with weather stripping and better fitting windows. As you are in an apartment, you can't fix the windows, but consider weather stripping. Alternatively, you can put heat-reactive shrink wrap over your entire window frame. Attach the film as tightly as you can so it floats above the glass, then use a hair dryer to make it shrink.
  
  
• Heat loss through window - uninsulated glass
  
  For this, put your hand about an inch away from the glass. If your hand gets cold, your window is poorly insulated. If you don't care about looks, and your apartment complex doesn't care about looks, and you don't need light in that window, get some EPS foam boards (Expanded Polystyrene - "styrofoam"). Find some of this scrap from big box stores or elsewhere, it's often used as a packing material. You can buy it too, but it may not be cheap. A half-inch of the stuff would be great, cut it to the size of the window. EPS makes a great insulator. Alternatively, bubble wrap, probably cheaper and lets light in.
  
  
• Convective currents
  
  This is something you may not be aware of. Cold air sinks. Hot air floats. Imagine an empty room that has one window in it. Unimpeded, the hot air in the room will rise to the top. The air near the window will get cooled by the window, and sink to the bottom of the room. This creates a circular air current from above the window to the floor, across the bottom of the room, getting heated by the ambient heat of the room, then rising to the top again. This can make a mini-vortex that cools the room quickly and creates a draft. Older homes would combat this with drapes and radiators directly below the windows. The heat of the radiator would counter the convective current. This is also why your window has a sill. Drapes can stop the convective current effect. While drapes may not be very insulating, they block the flow of air and kill the convective current. A similar effect can be done with the heat-reactive shrink wrap.
  
  

I just want to point out that if a space heater overloads the electrical circuit, any electrical heat source would do the same. An electric blanket alone probably wouldn't, but I see people listing a bunch of warm things, which would trip the breaker if all used together to replace a space heater.

Your best option is to keep as much heat as possible from leaving the room, and work on heating the smallest area possible (your bed, most likely). The more you can confine the heat, the less you will actually need to generate.

Seal up all the drafts, and insulate. Drafy buildings in New England often use window film to create an air barrier, and it makes a big difference. Heavy curtains are popular as well.

I like my bedroom cold when I sleep, so I don't turn the heat on. I have two blankets and a thick down comforter, and it is amazing. I would try combining some window film, heavy curtains, electric blanket, and big heavy down comforter, and see how you like that.

These things work really well and are available at most hardware stores. All you need is a hair dryer.

That first picture is an electric baseboard heater, so yes using it would come out of your electric bill. Some baseboard heaters just have a manual on/off switch or knob somewhere, others are controlled by thermostat.

A lot of cold-climate houses have baseboard heaters in addition to forced air or radiant heat, but it's possible that the baseboard is your only source of heat.

Do you see any vents in the apartment like this, in the floors or walls? If so, that means there's a gas furnace somewhere, probably in the basement, pumping hot air through the house. A studio apartment might not have its own thermostat, the temperature would be controlled somewhere else in the building.

That tank in your second and third pictures is a hot water heater, for your shower and sink and washing machine. I can't tell for sure if it's gas or electric. If it's gas, it would have an exhaust vent on top. If it's electric, it would only have a water-in, water-out, and a wall plug.

You can improve your energy efficiency quite a bit by putting plastic on your windows, something like this will make a big difference in the winter.

I'm in a similar situation. Here's some of the stuff I'm doing:

I just bought a bunch of these - shrink film window insulators. I'm in a new apartment this winter and I'm in a colder climate than I'm used to, so hopefully they'll work. My brother uses them and he says they work really well. It makes sense that they would, since air is a great insulator. And buy insulating (or at least very thick) curtains. During the day when the sun is out, keep them open to get warmth in (on windows that are facing the sun), but at night shut them to keep out the cold.

Other than that, try to find out where in your house the warm air is escaping. I found out that my back door had about an inch-wide crack along the top that I stuffed with brown packing paper, which helped a lot. If there are any rooms you don't use that often, close them off as best as you can - seal off the window, shut the door and put a door runner along the bottom to keep all the cold air out and the warm air in. You want to be trying to heat as small of an area as possible.

You can also try to replicate a Japanese kotatsu if you have a low table and a heater that is low to the ground. I have a low coffee table I sit at, and I'm planning on getting a large blanket to imitate the general idea of a kotatsu with. The heater I use for my living room blows hot air out low to the ground, and a lot of it ends up under the coffee table anyway. I can sit at the table and keep my legs warm.

Also, as weird and lame as they are, I recommend a slanket. I know people make fun, but they're not at all the same as just having a bathrobe on backwards - they're much longer, much thicker, and they have hoods and pockets for your feet. You could try to make one but I don't think that would end up being more frugal, because the fabric would be expensive. The one I have is a godsend, especially since I do a lot of work from home and it keeps me warm while I'm on my computer.

Finally, drink a lot of warm drinks. Always have a hot cup of coffee or tea in your hand. It will warm up your hands and your body. I think that the logic behind the "warm drinks actually make you colder" thing is that they make you sweat, but if you're cold enough that you aren't sweating at all from drinking them, you're retaining most of the heat. And get enough food! Your body burns calories to keep you warm, so this is not the time to restrict yourself.

This is what you want. This is probably what everyone should use. Maybe painters tape would work better, though I suspect it will fail soon enough too, but I tried using painters plastic drop cloth and duct tape, lots of it, and it started to peal off in about a week.

I'd personally prefer the dropcloth as it's slightly cheaper (~5$ for probably 15-20 windows, plus the cost of tape) and more importantly I like that it's translucent as opposed to transparent. The kit I linked essentially looks like nothing is there at all if done right, you definitely won't have a problem with light.

It would also be worth your while to find and fix the drafts you mentioned, inexpensively and without any permanent modifications to the property.
Outlet/switch insulators are cheap, easy to install, and effective.

If you feel cold air from the gaps between the wall and your window/door trim, stuff backer rod in the gaps. (It's similar to rolls of self-stick foam watherstripping, but doesn't have the "sticky". You can also cut it in half/quarter for smaller gaps.)

If the windows are drafty, install heat-shrink film kits on any you won't need to open (or adjust blinds on) over the winter. For windows you may need to open or that have thick blinds, use butyl "cord" weatherstripping. Squish it into the edges/corners of window frames/panes/etc. It's removable and is available in multiple colors.

(Source: I live in a 100+ year old house, with zero wall insulation and drafty original windows.)

Here you go:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002GKC2GW/ref=s9_top_hd_bw_g60_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-2&pf_rd_r=1VZR65FY940ZR2HHXZVE&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=2223035542&pf_rd_i=495374

Goes on the inside of the windows so no crows can get in. That would keep you warm assuming the windows are the problem.

The workbenches are great, but they were a compromise. I don't drive and my spine is fused, so my ability to pick up things and carry them up my steps is very limited. If not for those limitations I'd have gone with this kit and picked up lumber at Home Depot cut to the dimensions I want to put it together.

Try this Hopkins 90164 2x4basics Workbench and Shelving Storage System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0030T1BRE/ref=cm_sw_r_taa_ORwNxb8EY55EY

Any desktop CNC needs a pretty sturdy table, especially one that won’t rack when the gantry moves. I initially build one myself, but it wasn’t sturdy enough so I switched out to a set of 2x4 Basics legs. Rock solid ever since, and much cheaper than a real workbench that’s sturdy enough for a CNC.

I used this bench bracket kit from amazon. It's kind of pricey for what it is but the brackets are actually pretty nice. You could recreate them by just using steel brackets from lowes but you'd probably still end up paying a decent amount for them. All you need is the lumber to finish it up.

As for the presses, I'd probably sell all but one. Considering it's single stage you'll have to change out the dies for each step anyway so it won't be anymore trouble to change calibers.

For the paint cans, you don't need them if you're just wanting to put them there for weight. It'll cover enough area to where it'll be stable without it.

I bought this from Amazon. It's basically just the (very hard and durable) plastic legs, and you cut and screw together 2x4s and plywood.

Built a couple of these in a matter of hours. I like that the feet are plastic and waterproof.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B0030T1BRE/ref=dp_olp_new_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=new

Not officially supported, but you can use Nest and Ecobee with a transformer and relay, like this: https://www.amazon.com/Aube-RC840T-240-Switching-Electric-Transformer/dp/B0037MXM1C

Install the following, then you can choose the smart thermostat of choice:

Aube RC840T-240 On/Off Switching Electric Heating Relay with Built-in 24 V Transformer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0037MXM1C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uITLBbZFN4PYX

Step 1. If it is the cheapie electric baseboard heat, you most likely have a 120v or 240v thermostat. Find out which.

Step 2. You'll need this for 240 (or if you can find one to mount in a switch box, that would be better): http://www.amazon.com/Aube-RC840T-240-Switching-Electric-Transformer/dp/B0037MXM1C/ref=pd_sim_60_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=31RasVuVDpL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1K9Z0QT4F1AHDX7W166G

Or this for 120v: http://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-RC840T-120-Electromechanical-Relay-Built/dp/B00D5YLY2G/ref=pd_sim_60_4?ie=UTF8&dpID=41c-k5UMUgL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1K9Z0QT4F1AHDX7W166G

Step 3. Use the above relay to hook up an Insteon Thermostat.

You want a thermostat switching relay like this one

Then use any smart thermostat you want.

You’re looking for something like this. It is essentially a 240V relay with a 24V control circuit, which allows you to switch a line-volt heater using a low-voltage thermostat. Then you can choose any thermostat you like.

Aube RC840T-240 On/Off Switching Electric Heating Relay with Built-in 24 V Transformer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0037MXM1C/

I don’t have any direct experience with it unfortunately, but maybe this will at least give you a place to start.

Something like this should work. SHOULD. I don't know the exact specifics of your setup, but it looks like 240V line-voltage baseboard heating based on your existing thermostat.

If you get this thing, connect all 3 wires to the Nest. It just saves headaches to have a C wire.

Just get one of these carbon filters from amazon. At $100 it isn't that cheap. But it lasts a long time and that's still way cheaper than chemo.

VIVOSUN 48"x24"x60" Mylar Hydroponic Grow Tent with Obeservation Window and Floor Tray for Indoor Plant Growing 2'x4' https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DXYMQ9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6xYQybZYQ5R07

VenTech VT IF4+CF4 IF4CF412 Inline Duct Fan with Virgin Charcoal Carbon Filter Combo, 190 CFM, 4" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004Q2ER5C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7yYQyb26P3D49

Deep Water Culture (DWC) Hydroponic Bucket Kit 5 Gallon, 6 inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CHEIO6Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yAYQybVQN6NWW

VIPARSPECTRA Reflector-Series 600W LED Grow Light Full Spectrum for Indoor Plants Veg and Flower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019ETLC7M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vBYQyb3R3GY0X
(1 to start then 2 when you get to flower

That should get you started. You'll need a couple timers as well but that's a decent start.

This would be one inline fan and filter. I have not used that product so I can't really talk about it. Other bucket growers have inline-fanned their setups, hopefully they'll chime in.

Thanks for reaching out. I saw some talk about COB LED. Any recommendations? I'm also not quite sure why they're said to be superior lights. Just spectrum? I saw this, but couldn't find any info on the actual wattage or people using it. https://www.amazon.com/Roleadro-HYG05-2X200W-W-Spectrum-Hydroponic-Indoor/dp/B00U2DP48I

Re: Fresh air. I'm also planning on having a few clip on fans inside the tent with a duct fan https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Q2ER5C/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

The door to the closet doesn't close fully, and its incredibly thin plywood. The room itself has a pedestal fan and a window open for temp control.

>will an air purifier like this do the job?

No. Not even close. Unless you want your neighbors knowing that you grow!

>The smell gets a lot worse when drying if I understood that correctly

Actually, it's stinkiest during flower.


You need to be running something like this running all the time in order to properly scrub out the smell.

I was planning on going with fox farm nutrients and I just ordered a ph tester last night. I tried googling it and found no luck, but how do I cheaply aerate the water?

I also looked up an inline fan, would you recommend a six inch in fan? I'm also unsure of the purpose and set up issues of an inline fan. Sorry for being so needy - I tend to get a bit overwhelmed with the details when I take a project like this up and unfortunately need a. It of hand holding. Thank you btw for your help.

Edit: this air filter I was looking at comes with an inline fan, but I think I'll need the 6 inch one since that's the size of my light exhaust.

Yeah I've checked the link and bookmarked it for referential material. [This combo] (http://www.amazon.com/Hydroponics-Inline-Scrubber-Carbon-Filter/dp/B004Q2ER5C/ref=pd_sbs_lg_2) looks good but I'm having problems discerning the true dimensions of it to factor into my space :S

Sure!
Also a put the wrong wattage on my lights above. Also had a buddy order it lmao. He hasn't been raided yet haha.

2x300w led- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HFZ3PC2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CVjwyb4CPNXTK

2x2x4 tent was discontinued on amazon, but brand was Valuebox. Got it for dirt cheap like 40 bux

VenTech fan and filter
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004Q2ER5C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_NYjwybWN2VC8K

3 gal smart pots - the 2x2 can fit four of these snugly

Hi, I would appreciate some critical feedback and suggestions regarding the setup I have in mind for a new grow tent, specifically related to ventilation. So far I have concluded that a 3'x1.7'x5' grow tent is the right size for my space (a spare bathroom), and towards that end I have purchased this tent and a 400W cool tube lamp.

For ventilation, what I am envisioning based on my research is a two fan setup: a 6" inline duct fan to cool the lamp (like this one) and a 4" inline duct fan with a carbon scrubber to exhaust the tent (like this one), presumably with speed controllers for each.

Again, this is going in a bathroom where I plan to hijack the existing ceiling exhaust ducting that leads outdoors. Thus I will need to couple the two fans from the lamp and the tent exhaust and plumb it into the ceiling.

Does this seem reasonable and appropriate? I am having a hard time picturing exactly how the carbon filter works - can I put it inline with ducting as I have drawn, or does the business end of the filter go inside the tent?

First off, i'm simply recommending them, the stuff you got works but theyre a bit over priced so i'm going to recommend a few cheaper stuff.

You can get away with a 4'' fan/filter/duct with the grow space tent you provided. heres a recommended one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Q2ER5C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Your tent and led is fine
Ph up and ph down is fine as well, i recommend getting a digital ph and ppm meter combo on amazon, doesnt matter if theyre cheap, they'll work.
As for your timer, i highly recommend this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042I5FF6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
That timer will give you the ability to upgrade to two led if you want too in the future.
Don't forget hangers for the lights.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0098R0600/ref=twister_B00FL6MTJI?_encoding=UTF8&th=1
Everythign else seems fine.

They were bundled together as a combo and are featured constantly in the Starter Shopping guides on this sub's sidebar. I sure fucking hope they're correct for each other.

Edit: This combo

I have a similar tent and I just started my first grow about 3 weeks ago. I was having issues similar to you. I was above 80 degrees and low humidity. It burned my first plant right up. I fixed it with three things:

1. This exhaust fan - Just put it on the outside top of your tent so that it pulls all the hot air that has risen to the top out.
   
2. I put 7" ducting in the bottom vents to keep them open at 100% for intake. You could put one of these in the hole and it would really help the temp a lot. Put that fan you have in the tent directly in front of the intake hole at the bottom as to maximize the amount of fresh, cool air you pull in the tent.
   
3. A humidifier. I went to goodwill, found a 2.5 gallon for $15 and it works perfect. Before I was at like 15% RH in the tent, now Im above 50%
   
   EDIT: Now I get ~70-74 degrees F inside the tent.

Funny, I'm sitting here drawing a diagram to upgrade my ventilation right now.

Temps are consistently between 72-78 as long as ambient stays around 70. Keeping ambient low is the trick, unless you can pull air from outside or vent outside, which is what I'm trying to work out right now.

I've got one of these on full blast pulling air from the upper part of the veg tent and venting through an HID hood in the flower tent. I have a cheap duct booster for intake. Right now it just vents to the 400sq ft room the tents are in. I'll add some pics in a few.

Probably not. What kind of fan is it? Moving air through a filter is very difficult unless the fan is designed for that purpose.

This would probably work, but this would definitely not. Even though it has more CFM. I made this mistake a while ago, and wasted money I could have spent elsewhere.

Also the reason I linked a cool tube is because you will want to vent this lights heat, one of these hooks right into that hood allowing you to keep the light closer to the plants.

I use a 6" duct inline blower with a vent to the roof.
On the laser itself I have a rectangular to 4" adapter that slots right into the back of the laser (sealed up with aluminum tape), a 4" flex hose, and a 6" to 4" reducer to connect to the blower.

i'd change the myq for the gocontrol linear https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469114577&sr=8-1&keywords=go+linear

By "GoControl," I think you mean this? GoControl sells several Z-Wave accessories that are actually just rebadges of Linear, not just the garage door openers. :)

I have two of those, those mine are the "Iris" branded ones from Lowes (again, same manufacturer - Linear). They look like this in the app. Tap the green icon, they open and the icon turns yellow. Tap the yellow icon, they close and turn green. They can be controlled by SmartThings monitoring, CoRE, etc. There's actually a "Door Opener" device type that they register as.

Does that answer your question?

If you want something to work with the Wink Hub, you can go with a GoControl Z-Wave Add-on. https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU You can add it to any garage door you'd like. I installed mine, using a SmartThings hub, and it seems to work pretty well.

GoControl/Linear GD00Z-4 Z-Wave Garage Door Opener Remote Controller, Small, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M75TEIU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qQH4BbHC7CQTS

I install one of these every week or so. They work really well for modern openers.

Amazon had the garage door sensor but its now unavailable, they are the only seller currently, but we will have it available on Amazon Prime in a couple weeks. We have a few units coming in today so once we get the listing complete, it will be available there in our store.

We will have the other items as well, we ordered yesterday but it may be a week or two for them to get in, Linear is pretty slow shipping.

SmartThings Version 3 Hub (I have the Version 2 Hub...you will have to look around for this one):
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Generation-GP-U999SJVLGDA-Automation/dp/B07FJGGWJL/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989501&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=smartthings+hub+2nd+generation&psc=1

GE Z-Wave Plus On/Off Light Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Required-Works-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989582&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave+switch

GE Z-Wave Plus Dimmer Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Required-Works-SmartThings-14291/dp/B07361Y54Z/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989582&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave%2Bswitch&th=1

GE Add On Switch (if you have a 3-way or 4-way switch):
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-STANDALONE-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989718&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave+add+on+switch

ZigBee Motion Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F8ZHBLS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ZigBee Door Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F956F3B/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

ZigBee Leak Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F951JDP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

ZigBee Outlet Plug (you will need to replicate your ZigBee mesh, I use to motion activate lamps, turn lamps on/off at sunset/sunrise, etc.):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F96JB63/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

Z-Wave Thermostat:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005EJ7YO2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ZigBee RGB Landscape RGB LED Strips:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R1PB2ZY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ZigBee RGB Lightbulbs:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073ZBYXKQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Z-Wave Deadbolt:
https://www.amazon.com/Kwikset-SmartCode-Electronic-SmartThings-featuring/dp/B004F1B24I/ref=sr_1_12?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990126&sr=1-12&keywords=z-wave+lock

Z-Wave Garage Door Opener:
https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990160&sr=1-4&keywords=z-wave+garage+door+opener

Sonos One Speakers (Great music, and talking through SmartThings):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074XN1LH3/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Amazon Echo Show (for Voice Control...an Echo Dot will work just fine too):
https://www.amazon.com/All-new-Echo-Show-2nd-Gen/dp/B077SXWSRP/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990254&sr=1-1&keywords=echo+show

That's about all I can think of at the moment.

If you are going to do this, do it in stages. Z-Wave and ZigBee are mesh networks...meaning that the reliability of the network gets much better the more devices you have. Also, with these mesh networks:

• Battery operated devices DO NOT reinforce the mesh
  
• The only devices that reinforce the mesh are devices that are always powered from the mains
  
  I see so many people complaining about how the Z-Wave or ZigBee devices don't work, when they are relying on too many battery operated devices.
  
  For Z-Wave devices, choose Z-Wave Plus over Z-Wave...it's the newest standard, and has much better range.
  
  In the US, Z-Wave operates in the 900 MHz spectrum and ZigBee in the 2.4 GHz spectrum. Personally, I "prefer" Z-Wave devices as there is a lot of "junk" in the 2.4 GHz spectrum right now. However, the ZigBee devices are operating reliably as I have a strong mesh setup (with non-battery operated devices).
  
  Two great application for the Leak Sensors:
  
  
• Near your hot water heater (when they go, they always leak)
  
• Under your A/C drip pan (if you have central air)
  
  Great applications for door open/close sensors:
  
  
• Turn closet lights on/off when the door opens or closes
  
• Turn on entry and hallway lights when an entry door opens, but only when it's dark (30 minutes before sunset or after sunrise)...turn off 1 minute later
  
• Notify me when my gun safe is opened
  
  Great Application for Motion Sensors
  
  
• Turn on outside ceiling fans (but only if the temp is above 72 degrees)
  
• Turn on lamps while motion is active when it's dark
  
  The motion sensors I linked above are the new ones...the magnetically mount. What's cool is that the magnet is in the sensor, and it's strong enough to attach the sensor to a dry wall screw (no need to mount the adapter bracket).

I have the GoControl for my 2 garage doors. It works great and most importantly integrates with hubs and IFTTT (i prefer Stringify though). The MyQ does not release there API to work with other services from what I here. I use a Wink and story around the block is you can't even make Robots using the MyQ. However, 20 dollars is a steal esp. compared to 80.

Sorry for being so late, but if you have Z-Wave in your automation already, then Z-Wave garage door openers are under $100, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491329589&sr=8-1&keywords=ZWave+garage+door+opener. Is the one I have, it has sensors that tell you if it is open or closed, and then you can use your phone (via z-wave controller) to close/open it. Works well for me. With my z-wave controller (Vera), I have it setup to notify me if I am not home and the door is opened, or left open.

There is also various WiFi options, which also allow you to control it, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Chamberlain-MYQ-G0201-MyQ-Garage-Controls-Smartphone/dp/B00EAD65UW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491329677&sr=8-1&keywords=wifi+garage+door+opener. No personal experience with those, but if they support your opener, are probably a good option.

If DIY is more your thing, a Arduino and a simple switch on the track somewhere would work for notifying if it is open.

My cheap/old garage door opener (Genie screw drive) has a bunch of exposed screw terminals for switches. One terminal opens/closes the door, one terminal toggles the light. They will work with any pushbutton switch, so anything that could drive a relay would work.

The door position sensors are just open/closed switches as well, so it would be really easy to wire it to anything that has a few i/o pins.

... so yeah anyway just get something like this and check the compatibility list:
http://www.amazon.com/Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Garage-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU

All good man. There is this also. GoControl/Linear GD00Z-4 Z-Wave Garage Door Opener Remote Controller, Small, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M75TEIU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FxyTzb8594QSS

Good luck either way

Amazon has not allowed Alexa to open/close doors or to unlock doors due to safety and security concerns. There are some workarounds out there.

I use the linear zwave garage door opener:
https://amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU

There is a custom device handler made for it on SmartThings that allows you to open and close it with alexa. However, I have tell alexa to turn it on (open) or off (close). It does not support Alexa telling me the status of the door. I still have to use the Smartthings app for that.

Hi Mike! There used to be a 3rd-party device handler for Chamberlain MyQ openers, but it seems that it has been discontinued: https://community.smartthings.com/t/discontinuation-of-myq-connect-community-smartapp/47183

Another option is to use the GoControl unit that connects to your existing garage door opener: https://smile.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU. It has native integration with ST as well as options for third party device handlers that extend the functionality. The price on Amazon is a bit high right now, but I've seen it around $65 in the past. If you're not in any hurry, use camelcamelcamel.com to track the Amazon price and notify you when it decreases or hits a target price you configure.

I can't help much with the camera portion of your question, but I'm interested to see what others have to say as well. This is something I'm still deciding on also.

Ahhhh, I see. So to integrate with Wink I would neither either this...

http://www.wink.com/products/chamberlain-myq-garage-door-controller/

Or one of these?

https://smile.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1479394170&sr=8-3&keywords=go+control

I got the Linear Garage Door Opener.

Works well. Plugs in easily to existing garage door opener.

Be very careful with it though. I never include closing it in automations in fear of it closing down on a kid or pet.

It is also an IoT device that if hacked, it will allow bad guys to get in your garage.

I'd think those would both work (haven't used them), but given Wink recognizes them as garage door openers they will limit operations that let you schedule/trigger door openings.

However, since you have a MyQ opener, I wouldn't get the Chamberlain controller you linked; that's to convert non MyQ doors to MyQ. Your current opener already has MyQ, so if you go the Chamberlain/Liftmaster route, just get the Internet gateway others have listed.

... nor the GoControl. Those both have the door sensor that detects if door it open or closed; your MyQ opener already has that intelligence.

If I wasn't clear (or confused you), the Liftmaster/Chamberlain Internet gateway WILL integrate with Wink; Chambrlain/Liftmaster and Wink just place restrictions on what you can do with it security-wise. I think Wink places those restrictions on most, if not all devices it recognizes as a door opener. Alexa does, at least.

The MIMOlite, I've heard, will get you around that, because Wink doesn't know what it's actually controlling.

... but the MIMOlite, alone, doesn't provide a sensor to tell you if the garage is currently open or closed. A ZWAVE sensor designed to detect angular changes, such as this, would work (but I don't know if that one is supported by Wink)

So you're saying if I buy the MyQ Garage Door Opener for my new house, I can return this?

Put the heat mats on a thermostat to avoid the temperature running away on you, or getting too cold if you leave them unplugged.

Pet store thermostats tend to be flaky in my experience. I've had decent luck with units WILLHI and Inkbird. Something like this WILLHI would probably work just fine for you; it has a waterproof and easily replaceable temperature probe you can snake into the tank and leave the control box out on your desk (or wherever) safe from the high humidity in the tank.

I've been taking ice baths for a bit now using plastic water bottles as reuseable ice cubes while filling the tub daily. I have a nice jacuzzi tub available most of the time that is great, but lugging the ice bottles around (my tub is on the 2nd floor, and my freezer is on the 1st floor) and having to re-freeze them every day can be a PITA - as well as having to use new water each day instead of the ability to recycle. My next solution is a chest freezer, which I intend to set up as soon as I am able.

A few tips from my research:

1. Get one big/wide enough for you to fit in comfortably up to and including your shoulders. Checking craiglist for your area is a good starting point for a discounted price. Depending on your size, 10-15 cu ft is a good range to consider.
   
2. Some have a handy shelf inside that can act as a bench; if yours does, you may desire a foam seat pad to put on top to make it slightly softer.
   
3. You can put it on a wall timer (that cycles on/off), then have it run for ~2-4 hours/day to keep the rough temp you desire, or a more accurate option is to get a Outlet Temp Controller (which is my choice method) that will auto on/off for you based on an exact preset water temperature. I enjnoy the idea of setting the tub to a custom temp, based on the length of time I intend to use it as well as the ability to increase cold levels of time.
   
4. When you first fill it with water and want to cool it, either cycle it on/off over multiple days or put a BUNCH of ice in with it - as cooling a lot of water isn't the intended purpose and this will mitigate the strain on the motor cooling system.
   
5. Seal up the inside seams with some silicone sealant (like stuff used for a bath tub), or line the inside with a pool liner for a thicker, reinforced watertight space.
   
6. The cool temp will naturally keep the water cleaner, though using H2O2 is a good way to elongate the life of the water even more. You can get ~5% at most pharmacies, or ~30% at farm supply stores that requires much less.

Color C-41 and E-6 are actually pretty easy when you get over the film sweats. The biggest problem to solve is how to get the chems to temperature and keep them there. Before I upgraded my system I used a crockpot and a home brewing temp controller.

Temp Control

Crockpot

Set the temp controller plug your crockpot into that and fill with water. The temp controller will turn the pot on and off to keep the chems with a degree or so.

Sorry. I have actually have a digital temp controller that switches a circuit on and off based on low and high settings. I hooked it up tonight and set low at 90 and high at 90.7. When it hits 90.7 it shuts off and seems to float up to 91.4 then starts cooling. Circuit (uth) turns back on at 90 but floats to about 89 before it starts warming. So basically I have it set to always be between 89 and 91.4. Thank you for your help.

Edit: this is the control. Overkill for this application but I already had it laying around from a different project.

WILLHI WH1436A Temperature Controller 110V Digital Thermostat Switch Sous Vide Controller NTC 10K Sensor Improved Version https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V4TJR00/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dfI2Cb2QX8AEA

I bought two of these and they work great

WILLHI WH1436A 110V - 240V Digital Temperature Controller Thermostat Switch NTC 10K Sensor, Improved Version https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V4TJR00/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_73huybVEFMJM9

Right now one of them is keeping my beer in the garage at 50 even though it's -5 outside

Check out this DIY solution I found.

I'm planning on building something like this soon. For the temperature control, I'm planning on using this instead.

No no no. All you need is $50.

$25 on a crock pot and $25 on this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00V4TJR00/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It'll self regulate the crock pot water to whatever temp you want. A bit less elegant, but way cheaper and you can still crock pot stuff like normal.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00V4TJR00/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is what I use. Plug controller into wall. Crock pot into controller and temp sensor into water.

Generally I set temp on controller. Set crock pot to high. When it gets close to temp I switch to warm add food and wrap in blanket. Doesn't very to much temp wise.

Dammit, I just bought this one http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V4TJR00?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00 will this one suffice?

I'm clueless so sorry for the full link. This is the device. Plug the crock pot into it, and it into the wall. It regulates temp by turning the crock pot off and on to maintain constant temp.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00V4TJR00/ref=pd_aw_sbs_328_of_20?ie=UTF8&dpID=51rY7vQjRCL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_SL500_SR100%2C100_&refRID=1VVXTWS8E0BGQZ9RPRZ0

It's a hot mess at the moment and I don't have a good photo, but here are the pieces:

• Inline fan https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CTM0JF2/
  
• Flexible duct like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017S4JPW4/
  
• An HVAC "Boot" like this https://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Ducts-Degree-Angle-Register/dp/B00BHLFBAK/
  
• a 6" "Wye" connector so I could connect multiple machines https://www.amazon.com/Single-Wall-Galvanized-Wye-Tee/dp/B00E0Q4902/
  
• Foil tape designed for HVAC https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Tape-Foil-Ducts-Insulation/dp/B01FROBUXE/
  
  I put the Amazon links for reference, but shop around. Some of this stuff is much cheaper at Home Depot or other online stores.
  
  I use the foil tape to connect a "boot" directly to the back of the case my mining rig is in. Then connect the flex duct to the boot. Connect the other end to the inline fan. Connect a second piece of flex to the output of the fan and hang the end out of the window.
  
  I've found pulling the heat out works much better than blowing cold air in.
  
  If you have an open mining rig, I've seen people put up small tents like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Valuebox-2x2x4-Small-Indoor-Hydroponics/dp/B01GCHXUVU/ and then just connect the duct to it. That seems to work okay too.

You again! Thanks for your help :)

I've also read that booster fans aren't great if carbon filters are involved and I'd rather have too much power than too little. I'm legally only allowed to grow 4 plants so I don't think my setup will ever expand beyond a 2'x4' tent, 3 plants at a time. Your 10x12 room is much larger than my small tent, so perhaps a booster is sufficient even with a filter?

​

It sounds like a 6" inch inline fan is almost overkill since I'll likely be running it on low full-time. I also use my grow-room as a small office so quiet is preferred.

​

I"m wondering if a 4" inline duct fan with a carbon filter is the way to go, or do you still recommend a 6" inline with the carbon filter, at low setting? I'm looking at this fan on Amazon. The total cost is $193CAD including filter/ducting. There's only $10 difference between 4" and 6" so 6" is likely better.

​

​

First, welcome to the enclosure club! You'll love the cost savings and lack of heat.

Here are a few points I'd like to make:

1. Install fans at the top of the unit
   
2. Ensure you have the proper air flow. Here is a document explaining how to calculate flow in enclosures.
   
3. Space out your fans. Unlike the photo you posted, you don't want to necessarily just draw air out of one central point. This can cause hot spots and some cards may not be cooled as well as others.
   
4. Leave headroom in the enclosure for hot air to collect. This may not seem important, but my cards get a LOT warmer when moved three feet closer to the top.
   
   You're looking for inline fans. I personally run Vivosun 440cfm units. I ran only one when I had three rigs in my tent, but after moving my ASICs in, I'm hooking up a second to improve temps a bit more.
   
   You can use conventional 6" dryer duct to move the air, but make sure you get the proper worm clamps and a Wye splitter (or better yet, two venting outlets for improved flow). The straighter the ducting, the better flow you will get.
   
   Here is an old video that I uploaded showing when I just had two rigs. This is how it looks now, and creates quite a bit more heat.
   
   Good luck with your build!

If you aren’t planning on getting a bigger tent I would stick with a 4” exhaust and a 4”/6” carbon filter. Here’s the link for the fan and one for the filter . I use a bigger fan and filter personally, but that’s because I plan on getting a bigger tent after my third or fourth grow. Based on the dimensions of your tent this should be a solid setup for you even if you go up a bit in the future.

Alright taking into consideration the 12 plant limit here, my previous setup was too big for so few plants. So with some downsizing hopefully saves even more!

Tent - GROWNEER 48"x36"x72" Lodge Propagation Tent

Lights - HLG65 lm301b and red 660nm hydroponic grow light 4000K x 2

Kingbrite 240W samsung lm301h 288v3 quantum board X1

Fan - AC Infinity CLOUDLINE S4, Quiet 4” Inline Duct Fan with Speed Controller

PH Meter - Wellcows Digital PH Meter

PPM Meter - HM Digital TDS-EZ Water Quality TDS Tester

Carbon Filter - VIVOSUN 4 Inch Air Carbon Filter

Ducting - VIVOSUN 2-PACK 4 Inch 8 Feet Non-Insulated Flex Air Aluminum Ducting

Nutrients - MEGA Crop (2500g)

Botanicare CAL-MAG Plus Plant Supplement 2-0-0 Formula, 1 Quart

PH Control - General Hydroponics pH Control Kit

Soil - PREMIER HORTICULTURE 20380RG PRO-Mix HP High Porosity Grower Mix

Pots - Gardzen 10-Pack 1 Gallon Grow Bags x 2

Cloning Machine - CLONE KING 25

Total - 880.62 (includes shipping)

So with this setup ill keep 1 or 2 mother plants and then run the rest in SoG in 1 gallon pots. Using the 2 4000k lights for the mother plant and the cloning station and the 240w for the SoG area of the tent. Its a small setup but I think it'll work. Any idea what kinds of yeilds this could achieve? Any further input would be greatly appreciated.

I setup some filtering for my smelly resin 3d printer and I tried a 120mm fan but it wasn't strong enough. Maybe my fan was weak. Then I used a 12v bilge blower that they use on boats with a variable speed control. This is great in terms of air movement but it's noisy. Apparently, this is a good inexpensive option if you want more air movement through your filter (I'm going to switch to one of these soon unless I figure out some way to insulate my bilge blower to make it quiet):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075SY5P1K/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3NP2ORRCG15VI&psc=1

They have multiple products -- I'm talking about the cheapest one at $26.79 at the moment (4" duct fan, 197 cfm). It would use the 4" dryer duct you mentioned (I'm using that too, works great).

I'm putting a splitter on my system to hook up to a booth/3d print handling/soldering station. I made mine out of foamcore/foam board from Dollar Tree. The portable option looks like and a plastic tub is a good idea too but I wanted something more permanent (have a small table to dedicate to it).

For the output part, if you totally want to get rid of anything, you could send it through one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DXYMBU6

I'm using a similar one (one I bought was a couple bucks less but went out of stock). It completely gets rid of the resin smell so I think it would work well for stinky paints. But for acrylic, I'm sure it's overkill but I'm going to be using it for exactly that too along with my other uses.

To be 100% clear, this is how my setup works:

• air filter/furnace filter (to prevent sucking dust/bigger particles into the system)
  
• 4" flexible dryer duct
  
• duct fan pulling air
  
• 4" flexible dryer duct
  
• active carbon filter getting air pushed into it and exhausting back into the room (I'm in a cold area so don't want to vent outdoors)
  
  To connect the dryer duct, I put some electrical tape around the surface I was connecting to and then used cheap zip ties (had to double them up) to hold the duct on. They have hose clamps too but they seem a bit overkill for our usage.
  

just want to chime in here, I was in the same boat as you. Starting out as just an experiment seeing if I could actually sprout a seed, turned into a dedicated project :p But I can tell you I didn't have any idea with like lights, tents, air filters etc. So first thing I bought was this LED , but a better option would be this Viparspectra (the one I bought though has been just fine) and just hung it in my closet with the plant, and that's it. veg'ed it for 4 weeks just like that with the light on a timer and my closet door closed. (get a little desk fan to to move some air over the leaves) Then I figured I'd switch to flower, and was kinda on the edge about investing in a tent and carbon filter. but every thread I read about smell, veterans would always say "It's gonna smell a lot!" So I bit the bullet and got a 2x2x4 tent and this carbon filter and fan . You can probably use your DIY carbon filter just fine. Anyway, long story short, I started to flower and literally two days later I walk into my house after work and the smell just hits me. And this is just one plant. So definitely invest in that stuff. But as for the PC fan, unfortunately it's not going to have enough static pressure to force air through a carbon filter. You don't have to go with the one I got, like brotha said the duct boosters will work too. If you have any question let me know cause I relate very well to your situation, except I've now been halfway through the process lol. pm me if you want

Hey! I bought a filter off amazon and it was garbage. I wrote a 1 stare review saying it didn’t remove the smell and the seller contacted me and agreed to give me a refund if I removed the review. Try writing a review and see what happens. If you happen to be in Canada I ordered https://www.amazon.ca/VIVOSUN-Australia-Charcoal-Pre-filter-Included/dp/B01DXYMBU6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1542050922&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=carbon+filter&psc=1 and it actually works. I’ve tested it in flower and there was no smell. Hope this helps.

Would this carbon filter, VIVOSUN 4 Inch Air Carbon Filter Odor Control with Australia Virgin Charcoal for Inline Fan, Grow Tent Odor Scrubber, Pre-Filter Included, Reversible Flange 4" x 14" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DXYMBU6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0C6RDbBJWSN4Q work with these fans? ELUTENG Dual 120mm USB Fan with 3 Speed Controller, 5V Ventilator Fan Rechargeable Compatible for Laptop Receiver DVR Playstation Xbox Desk Computer Cabinet Cooling https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071Y4MGFK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ED6RDbSX70SX5

VIVOSUN 4 Inch Air Carbon Filter Odor Control with Australia Virgin Charcoal for Inline Fan, Pre-filter Included, Reversible Flange https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DXYMBU6?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

A charcoal filter works for indoor use. I printed this adapter on my ender 3:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2877754

And I ran it through a filter with these things:

• VIVOSUN 4 Inch 25 Feet Non-Insulated Flex Air Aluminum Ducting for HVAC Ventilation w/Two 4 Inch Stainless Steel Clamps
  
  
• VIVOSUN 4 Inch 195 CFM Inline Duct Ventilation Fan Vent Blower
  
  
• VIVOSUN 4 Inch Air Carbon Filter
  
  It works great for me, and I'm very sensitive to the resin fumes.

I have a duct fan blowing into a carbon filter. It does a great job keeping the smell down.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01DXYMBU6/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1_1_1?smid=A2PQGFJXAT8J9K&psc=1

I honestly would use panda film over the mylar stuff. Mylar is slightly more reflective but panda film is cheaper and diffuses light better. It's black on the backside for blacking out. It's also cheaper. Either one will work great tho.

>Now my questions are, do i need some kind of air inlet to let fresh air in, and if so, will a simple vent do, or does it require a fan as well, or is that overkill for what I'm doing?

A vent should be plenty. Make it bigger than your exhaust, like 2x bigger. Intake fans arent needed in such a smll space. Make sure it's a lifeproof vent. Like this

>Also, If I get a 150Watt LED, I think that would meet my needs, but if I added another 50w LED light and pointed it at the undergrowth, would that be a benifit or will the 1 lamp provide all I need? I'm on a budget, but thankfully the budget is large enough that if I can find a good bang for my buck addition that will provide a better harvest, I can do it.

Like /u/Cuicos said, get the quantum board 135w kit. It will be all you need in that space. It equals one of the "600w" blurple LED panels on amazon. Or about 4-5 of those 150w LEDs you're talking about (UFO im assuming).

You wont need any side lighting or anything using the kit.


>I know I'll need an air extractor and carbon air filter, as wel as a small fan inside the room to circulate the air.

Yep. If you want a cheap one, get this. It will be loud as hell though. If you want a quiet one, get this. DO NOT GET A FAN LIKE THIS ONE.


If you are serious about smell, do not get a shitty filter. Ipower, vivosun, etc. are all shitty. I had a brand new 4" ipower filter and it couldnt handle 1 plant. Get a phresh one, this one is perfect.

T4 is adjustable.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZXWN3BG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_d0qIDbYQDW03Y

I don't know about fan speed controllers, depends on your fan I guess. The fans I purchased had speed controllers with them.

I use these ones, they are a little more pricey, but they have a speed controller that you can set to on all the time, or set to turn on at certain temps. Plus they are quiet;

4" https://www.amazon.ca/AC-Infinity-CLOUDLINE-T4-Ventilation/dp/B06ZXWN3BG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539294592&sr=8-3&keywords=ac+cloudline

6" https://www.amazon.ca/AC-Infinity-CLOUDLINE-T6-Ventilation/dp/B074XBXFPD/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1539294592&sr=8-1&keywords=ac+cloudline&dpID=41svLNXomyL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

No problem! Do you have the space for 72 inches of height vs 60? Also consider a 3x3 would give you 9 square feet vs 8 square feet of a 4x2. Tents should be similarly priced these dimensions.


For your light this would be an awesome choice https://m.alibaba.com/product/62323084952/detail.html?spm=a2706.wapshop.0.0

240watt quantum led board

AC Infinity CLOUDLINE T4, Quiet 4" Inline Duct Fan with Temperature Humidity Controller - Ventilation Exhaust Fan for Heating Cooling Booster, Grow Tents, Hydroponics https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B06ZXWN3BG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JL1MDbQ099E88

This would be a top of the line exhaust fan and then you would want a 4 inch inline fan for bringing in fresh air. If looking at other brands of exhaust I would suggest sticking with 4 inch for your space.

A carbon filter if smell is an issue.

A fan for the bottom of your tent for circulation.

Something to elevate your planter off the ground.

A powerbar that's rated 50% more amps than you are plugging into it.

Something to measure your temperature/humidity and depending on the temperature/humidity maybe a humidifier or dehumidifier

Maybe a clip on fan for circulation above the canopy.

Ratchet cord for hanging stuff.

Maybe clippers for defoliating and eventual trimming.

Stuff to tie with for training your plant and maybe a scrog net if thata for you.

Happy growing :)

Edit: sorry, accidentally replied to main post instead of your reply!

Edit: apology 2, forgot that you were looking to do this all under $200. Will be tough. Might be cheapest to just start with a little nutes and start piecing your tent setup together over some time.

If your house has conditioned air, you might be able to draw off of that to cool your cabinet in the attic. A small cabinet can be cooled by a 4" line and a real exhaust fan. Install a bathroom fan style ceiling grate in an out of the way place (spare bedroom closet?) and no one will know what's up there. Just, uhh, don't pull from the bathroom... Not only would you suck bathroom smells into the tent, but if your bathroom fan is powerful enough and the door is shut, it could conceivably pull air from the tent into the bathroom 😬

Look for a fan that can do in the neighbourhood of 200cfm, preferably with a speed controller. I have this Vivosun one: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01DXYMGOM but if you're not on a budget, this one would be excellent: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B06ZXWN3BG

Avoid the super cheap "booster" fans, they're only useful as an add-on in the middle of a long run.

Thanks. Good call. I honestly probably won't be using it much though. It's more just a troubleshooting tool if my plants aren't happy, and for checking initial pH of my RO water so I knew when the membrane and DI resin were broken in. I've got a great TDS meter which is my primary tool for testing my water - if TDS goes over 1PPM measured, time for a new membrane. pH of the RO shouldn't fluctuate widely enough to be deleterious, so I don't foresee using it much, unless my plants are unhappy and I need to check my parameters to troubleshoot.

It seems accurate? it was cheap af and had a high rating so i just said fuck it. It wasn't a necessity item.

I'm such a fucking dork. The thing I'm most excited about (not pictured/still en route) is the exhaust fan. Thermostatically/hygrometrically programmable. Gonna play around with dropping my temps the last few weeks to try and induce purpuration. Cloudline T4, in case you're curious.

I made an exhaust system with this fan: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074XBXFPD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4l6EAbYT8JHK9

I have drop ceiling, so I just mounted it above the ceiling and put an intake vent in the basement ceiling and an exhaust vent in my living room floor on the main level.

I'm not sure what I'll do in the summer, but it wouldn't be hard to just install a T into the ductwork and run a line to a nearby window. In my case, the nearest window is quite a ways away so I might just have to install a small exhaust onto the side of my house

Grow tent $50 shipped- https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Hydroponic-Observation-Window-Growing/dp/B01DXYMQ9M/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=4x2+vivosun&qid=1567717535&s=gateway&sr=8-3

AC infinity(duct tape adhesive is on it) $110 shipped-https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-CLOUDLINE-T6-Temperature/dp/B074XBXFPD/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=ac+infinity+cloudline+t6&qid=1567717602&s=gateway&sprefix=ac+infin&sr=8-2

Meijiu 240W with driver completely wired $130 shipped- https://m.alibaba.com/product/62055663077/meijiu-quantum-board-full-spectrum-folux.html

Ugh i wrote a lengthy reply but my phone crashed. So quick reply. My one hlg in 4x4x6 produces 10 degree increase. I use this fan for exhaust:

AC Infinity CLOUDLINE T6,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074XBXFPD?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Which i love because of controls and it isnt that loud. And easy to adjust temp and fan speed.

This is the link for the fan im using so you can see specifics easier : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074XBXFPD/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_clzWDbV60BEY3

Im in a vivosun grow box.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HQMX3S1/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_fpzWDbMGRGRDA

using a 1000 watt led light
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MZMHP8P/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_AqzWDbBENDE67

As well i have a small humidifier in there for obvious reasoning..lol

Hope i helped as much as you need.
Fair warning though the light i have is i believe overpowered for the size of my tent. Great luck growing frient..

Let me know if i can help more..

>https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074XBXFPD/ref=cm\_sw\_r\_sms\_apa\_i\_sPdVDbC26EA27

Are these really that much quieter? I have a vivosun inline fan with a speed controller, and have been looking at these, hoping they run quieter.

Go buy a 4x4 tent, ideally gorilla but can get cheaper.

https://growershouse.com/gorilla-grow-tent-4-x-4?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=1o1&scid=scplp6055&sc_intid=6055&gsacid=952890155&keyword=&gclid=Cj0KCQiAw4jvBRCJARIsAHYewPMdnaA3pI_kaqr7hDDtRfQzZ5-nIJ_myYwy_RzlSfPlTYAKJuHyn5MaAotOEALw_wcB#!

Order the light


https://growershouse.com/horticulture-lighting-group-hlg-600w-qb288-v2-r-spec-led-kit?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=1o2&scid=scplp15744&sc_intid=15744&gsacid=952890155&keyword=&gclid=Cj0KCQiAw4jvBRCJARIsAHYewPMp8yJqTkQMEmC5Db2_3fMT73eIoyEVEXZMPbEIJIB_wpvPAEW537saAsyFEALw_wcB

Inline fan


AC Infinity CLOUDLINE T6, Quiet 6" Inline Duct Fan with Temperature Humidity Controller - Ventilation Exhaust Fan for Heating Cooling Booster, Grow Tents, Hydroponics https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074XBXFPD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LMT4Db95YN9QZ

Carbon filter


VIVOSUN 6 Inch Air Carbon Filter Odor Control with Australia Virgin Charcoal for Inline Fan, Grow Tent Odor Scrubber, Pre-Filter Included, Reversible Flange 6"x 18" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01731MLFK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HNT4Db23PB3M8

Flex duct

VIVOSUN 6 Inch 25 Feet Non-Insulated Flex Air Aluminum Ducting for HVAC Ventilation w/Two 6 Inch Stainless Steel Clamps https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010UCCMW6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yPT4DbNQFABKE

Fan


SPT Wall Mount 16" Fan with Remote Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071Y8CN45/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oQT4DbV2ANXJG

Temp/hygrometer

AcuRite 00613 Indoor Thermometer & Hygrometer with Humidity Gauge, 3" H x 2.5" W x 1.3" D https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013BKDO8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xRT4Db8N3X0K6

Rope hanger

iPower GLROPEX2 2-Pair 1/8 Inch 8-Feet Long Heavy Duty Adjustable Rope Clip Hanger (150lbs Weight Capacity) Reinforced Metal, 2 Pack, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018WIOEDA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_iST4DbF0EQJAK

Light timer

BN-LINK 7 Day Outdoor Heavy Duty Digital Programmable Timer BND/U78, 125VAC, 60Hz, Dual Outlet, Weatherproof, Heavy Duty, Accurate For Lamps Ponds Christmas Lights 1875W 1/2HP ETL Listed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G9RK4VV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wWT4Db5Q74NPA

PH meter

Digital PH Meter, PH Meter 0.01 PH High Accuracy Water Quality Tester with 0-14 PH Measurement Range for Household Drinking, Pool and Aquarium Water PH Tester Design with ATC (2020-Yellow) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08197LX6H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TXT4DbZ8TF1W

Tower of Power

Hydrofarm TMTOP6 Tower of Power https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001WAL58I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_f1T4Db88GD2GE

Loupe

VIVOSUN 30X 60X Illuminated Jewelers Loupe Foldable Magnifier with LED Light for Jewelry Gems Watches Coins Stamps Antiques Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VK1LVKX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_62T4DbR2KDDY4

Measuring cups.

Garden Smart Measuring Glass (1, 1 ounce) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073C6S1LS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_o5T4DbQFTS4FY


Fox Run Brands 4892COM 4-Ounce Mini Measuring Glass, Regular, Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N4CQWI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_95T4DbTWPWNMP


Get some short heavy gauge cords

Still haven’t said what medium, so I can’t recommend anything there for nutes or pots. Since your new, I’d consider soil and airpots.

You’ve got lots to learn, buy the grow encyclopedia.

The Cannabis Encyclopedia: The Definitive Guide to Cultivation & Consumption of Medical Marijuana https://www.amazon.com/dp/1878823345/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_9RIDjvgDjnPoc

I’m sure I forgot something, it’s off the top of my head, you’ll always be running and picking up a trinket or two. That said, this will get you far down the path.

Need to decide medium and I can help point you towards genetics. Probably clones to start off.

I agree Mars Hydro is a great tent for a great price, you could get a vivosun if you want to save 35$ or a gorilla tent if you want to spend 335$ extra but I would go with the Mars Hydro.
Light Spider Farmer
exhaust AC Infinity
Humidifier TaoTronics

ac infinity is the best
https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-CLOUDLINE-T6-Thermostat/dp/B074XBXFPD/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2HAC0KQSMB5UM&keywords=ac+infinity+cloudline+t6&qid=1555334719&s=gateway&sprefix=ac+infi%2Caps%2C387&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06WD58D23


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0791V19H7


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B074XBXFPD


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AE11Q44


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000IF23PW


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01J37FI7K


2 x https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XKW7M92


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008X0M4TY


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B018WIOEDA

Thanks! The reason I was wondering about phosphorus deficiency is due to the purple stems and leaf veins. It was mentioned to me that was not normal. In all honesty, I thought the plants were ok before then. There are a few with some wilting leaves and some of the lower leaves on a few plants started to curl on the edges. It may have gotten too warm inside the tent the other day. I’m ordering a ventilation system on Thursday from Amazon. Here it is. Ventilation System It’s supposed to monitor the temp and humidity and adjust fan speeds as needed. Thank you for your help and also for that link! I’m going there now.

https://camelcamelcamel.com/AC-Infinity-CLOUDLINE-T6-Thermostat/product/B074XBXFPD?context=search

Looks like the lowest it's been new on amazon was $119 and used was $110. I plan on getting the one shown that includes the controller and another stand-alone which they say will be available at the end of this year.

edit: looks like op is talking about the S6 and we are thinking T6.

All I can tell you is - follow the universal truth - You get what you pay for. Of course there are a few exceptions, I've found great quality products for cheap, but those gems are far and few between right?

That being said, you are on the right track. After reading reviews I ended up going with this filter and then I got this fan and so far they've been great. The speed controller is a nice touch. When it comes to carbon filters, they are mostly all the same in terms of design, so if you go with a cheaper brand to save 10 bucks I really don't think you'll be hurting yourself or your set up, but things like fans, mechanical devices, i wouldn't cheap out on.

Something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Inline-Ventilation-Variable-Controller/dp/B01CTM0JF2/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1540561854&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=vivosun%2Bfan&dpPl=1&dpID=51wb-StYAtL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1

If you're willing to spend that much just get a fan and carbon filter.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01731MLFK/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I2P4RWF4KIM95J&colid=2Y0GPV8765UF8


https://smile.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Inline-Variable-Speed-Controller/dp/B01CTM0JF2/

Canadian amazon link but I have this. https://www.amazon.ca/VIVOSUN-Inline-Ventilation-Variable-Controller/dp/B01CTM0JF2

I quite like it, but would go one size bigger if I had a static setup, mine I take in and out of the window so I kept the fan small, if it was all rigid then I would up size it.

It is very quiet, the fan on the laser is often louder than it and even when cutting MDF it pulls the smoke just fine

This is what I have, but I think this might be a good option too. I've heard of the second brand before, just no experience with it or the built in controller.

It comes down to a couple factors. Carbon filters require a certain CFM to scrub air properly, if you're not pulling enough air through the filter it can not scrub the air properly.

Outside of the filter not doing its job at a lower airflow, A bigger inline fan will pull enough air from a smaller tent (4x4 or smaller) that you can achieve a negative pressure that will regulate your RH, as it will basically suck up and out any condensation that has been expired from your plants.

Okay! Do you think something like this would do the trick?
https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Inline-Variable-Speed-Controller/dp/B01CTM0JF2/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1482559818&sr=8-9&keywords=inline%2Bfan&th=1
Part of me wants to cheap out and get the 4inch version but I don't wanna try and save 10 bucks and end up with something that won't be able to get the job done.

So, as is surely obvious, I'm completely new. I just set up my tent, which is 2x4x5'

I purchased a mars 600w LED, a charcoal filter and two of these fans

VIVOSUN 6 Inch 440 CFM Duct Inline Fan with Variable Speed Controller

I just opened one of the fans and it is ridiculously huge. The reason I chose that one was it seemed to fit the holes n my tent. Which is

vivosun tent

Is this total overkill? Will it work? Ack. I don't want to have to mess with an exchange unless necessary.

An intake fan will double as an outtake fan depending on the way you face it. You can use two intake fans and use one of them to suck the hot air inside the top of the tent and blow it out of the tent with another fan to pull air from outside and blow it into your tent or you can do it how I do it.

Most tents have velcro flaps that pull up with mesh screens on them to act as air vents. If you have your tent near a wall I open the flap close to the wall that way it is shaded so I don’t have worry about light leaking through it. Then I use one intake fan inside my tent and I duct it out of the tent and out my window. All other intakes are sealed but one or two air vents that are shaded from light.

This creates a negative pressure in your tent. The hot air has no where else to go but through your fan and out of the tent and then the air from the room your tent is in is being drawn in from your passive air vent.

Almost all tents have these vents located in multiple spots for this. Ideally you will only need to buy one fan for your tent.

EDIT: something like this and some 6in ducting with a few rope clip hangers from amazon and you’re all set

I just installed this Vivosun 440CFM fan from Amazon and it hasn't had any issues keeping the temp and humidity in line on my 48" x 48" x 80" that also has a 32" x 32" x 60" tent connected to it.

I have two of these:
https://www.amazon.ca/VIVOSUN-Australia-Charcoal-Pre-filter-Included/dp/B01DXYMBU6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=carbon+filter&qid=1565462105&s=gateway&sr=8-3

It's amazing how well they work... I've had guests over and they can't smell anything until I open the tents to let them have a peek.

If the goal is to avoid the fumes, I'd say modify a carbon filter to vent the exhaust through. I've seen several, one going so far to use ducting to attach to a large carbon filter with a 4inch in line fan to draw air through. And then at that point it really won't matter where it is for the most part.

Something like this - amazon link

Along with the likes of this custom exhaust vent along with some standard ducting and a 4" inline fan.

It should yeah. When I got my photon the whole house stank of resin. When I put https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01DXYMBU6 with a fan on my photon the smell basically went away. It’s still faint in the printer room.

Set up was super easy, old port screws right off and you screw the new one right one and then slap on a filter and a fan (any carbon filter should do but here’s what I bought that works well)

VIVOSUN 4 Inch Air Carbon Filter... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DXYMBU6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

VIVOHOME 4 Inch 195 CFM Plastic... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078HFVTYX?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

And finally some ducting-

iPower GLDUCT4X8C 4 inch 8 feet Non-Insulated Aluminum Foil Vent with 2 Clamps, Ducting https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EPE3XHY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CfrZCb6YXV1V7

This really works well for me. The smell otherwise is intolerable. Carbon filters are really amazing.

Here is the filter. It all tucks nicely up top behind the lights.

And this is my first grow so no idea on what it will yield.

This is exactly what I'm planning to do. Do you have a filter that you would recommend? I'm considering this one.

Shopping list;

AmazonBasics 6-Outlet Surge Protector Power Strip, 6-Foot Long Cord, 790 Joule - White https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00TP1C1UC/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_H4B1DbVABEKV0


VIVOSUN 4 inch Inline Duct Booster Fan 100 CFM, Extreme Low Noise & Extra Long 5.5' Grounded Power Cord https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01C82SYZ0/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_33B1DbZQFHVBT



VIVOSUN 4 Inch Air Carbon Filter Odor Control with Australia Virgin Charcoal for Inline Fan Pre-Filter Included https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01DXYMBU6/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_D3B1DbXZRD3RS


Hydrofarm TM01015D Dual Outlet Grounded Timer https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001Q1FZWA/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_.2B1Db0WE33FY



LED Lights Strip 5M 5050 SMD Waterproof 150LEDs RGB Color Changing Flexible LED Light Strip Kit https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07B5Z2Y34/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_H2B1Db47ZRW0K



COB LED Grow Light, Niello Full Spectrum Grow Lights for Indoor Plants, Higher Light-Gathering, Space Saving and Easy to Install, Professional Greenhouse Hydroponic Indoor Plants(150W) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07DJ5WZQD/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_M0B1DbJMFAJ20



Not included; tin tape, duct tape, 2" curved pvc tubes x3, zip ties, hot glue, and the Rubbermaid wheeled bin + lid.

I ended up going with this fan and this filter hopefully their good enough for my 2x2 space

AC Infinity CLOUDLINE T4, Quiet 4" Inline Duct Fan with Temperature Humidity Controller - Ventilation Exhaust Fan for Heating Cooling Booster, Grow Tents, Hydroponics https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZXWN3BG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HftGDbW1BANDX

iPower GLFILT4M 4 Inch Air Carbon Filter Hydroponics Indoor Plants Grow Tent Odor Control Scrubber with Australia Virgin Charcoal for Inline Fan, Reversible Flange, Prefilter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E582DV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bktGDb9PQSKM7

• Here
  
  
• here (these are really amazing lights and they're one of the most efficient electricity wise)
  
  
• here (this inline fan is really quiet but a bit more expensive.)
  
  
• if you want a carbon filter, any one should do. Here's a search of them in case you're feeling lazy.
  
  I doubt you'll be able to fit 3 decent sized mature plants in that space, maybe 1 but you can always get a bigger tent! Anything else I can help you with?

Congrats on the Epilog! Great machine.

I too bought my fan from a hydroponics supplier but also look at HVAC suppliers; they typically have lower prices as HVAC guys are re sellers and need things to actually perform to their specs (unlike hydro) so they can pass code/engineering for permits.

Just remember you can only have two 90deg turns in a duct before the pressure becomes compromised to the point the specs no longer apply. Also if you can, use straight duct rather spiral as that has more resistance (most spiral duct is designed for short dryer runs where pressure isn't crucial).

I got a more basic one but this is probably what I'd buy now:

https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-CLOUDLINE-T4-Thermostat/dp/B06ZXWN3BG/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1537908234&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=cloudline+inline+duct+fan

I have a 2x4x6, I use this. It works great.

AC Infinity CLOUDLINE T4, Quiet 4" Inline Duct Fan with Temperature Humidity Controller - Ventilation Exhaust Fan for Heating Cooling Booster, Grow Tents, Hydroponics https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B06ZXWN3BG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RGvKDbVQK4W9S

That will definitely work but check out ac infinity fan on amazon. You still need to get a filter but holy fuck this fan is amazing. I just installed it today and it is so incredibly quiet and automatic adjusts the fan speed depending on what temp you want to maintain in the tent.

AC Infinity CLOUDLINE T4, Quiet 4” Inline Duct Fan with Thermostat Speed Control - Ventilation Fan Exhaust Fan for Heating Cooling Booster, Grow Tents, Hydroponics https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZXWN3BG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_cLkRAb5CRK5QX

They have a model with a temp and humidity Controller as well:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZXWN3BG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3I5QCbM3ZYMA0

Exactly my plan. Found a good and quite fan designed for AV racks and a special vent designed for windows:

The vent: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M17V4CO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-39QCb1FACNR0

The fan: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZXWN3BG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_c0aRCb9HB2TGH

And a standard dryer hose and a custom “box” to fit to the back of the rack and have a 4” hole in the top (to benefit hot air rising) that goes to the fan then the vent.

I'm not sure about the dead band, but here's the link.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06ZXWN3BG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I chose this one because my setup is in my 1000 sqft open loayout condo and I wanted it to be quiet.

That AC infinity also has an upgraded version with temp/humidity controller, the one you linked is the standard


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06ZXWN3BG/ref=sspa_mw_detail_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app

https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-CLOUDLINE-T6-Thermostat/dp/B074XBXFPD/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=ac+infinity+cloudline+t6&qid=1564022544&s=gateway&sprefix=ac+inf&sr=8-1

I have a T6 and a T4 with the manual speed contoller, dead quiet even at mid high speeds and it moves a ton of air. Love both of them, mine hang on bungee cords to absorb any vibrations.

The fancy controller will spin up the fan speed relative to a temperature set point and possibly humidity. Just make sure to set the fan speed to the maximum in manual mode before you set it to auto, if you dont and the fan needs to ramp up to a speed higher than the level set in manual mode it will supposedly lock out, and that was part of the reason I opted for the manual controller.

That said I did my reasearch 5-6 months back, they may have fixed the issue, and it also did not seem many people were effected by the issue, so the fix of setting the fan speed to max before setting it to auto may work.

Tent: TopoGrow 2-in-1 Indoor Grow Tent 108"X48"X80"

Lights: Three of these: MARS HYDRO 960w, apparently they just came out with a 2nd version of these at 900w, so here's that link

Soil:Fox Farm FX14054 Happy Frog Potting Soil

Pots:Fabric Pots
Humidifier:3.5G humidifier

Fan: basic large oscilating fan

Exhaust:AC Infinity CLOUDLINE T6
CO2 Bag: Exhale 365

Fertilizers: Technaflora Recipe for Success Starter Kit
Timers: Basic ones

Basil Seeds: because basil is fucking delicious

let me know if you all see anything extra i need or anything you think i could improve on!

Thanks again for the help!

I just switched to 12/12 from 24/0, started the flowering formula for the nutrients, and switched on the "bloom" light on the lights.

This?

This is the filter and this is the fan. The fan says 351 CFM but I couldn't find the rating for the filter. One person in the questions said it was 400 CFM though.

The only thing I found my self not truly prepared for was heating my home in an emergency. Thankfully the oven is gas and we just cranked up the oven and opened the door a bit. It was cold in the outside rooms but the living room and kitchen were warm. I was thinking of getting one of these as they say they are safe for indoors but I am kinda skeptical, burning propane emits CO.

Why not just buy the $70 Mr. Buddy??
https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232000-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B002G51BZU/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1504558716&sr=8-1&keywords=mr+heater+buddy&linkCode=sl1&tag=gh-byovan-20&linkId=388d2975fdb92edb12b0ad626232a5d0

Propane heater


Mr. Heater F232000 MH9BX Buddy 4,000-9,000-BTU Indoor-Safe Portable Propane Radiant Heater https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G51BZU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_A6yDDb4CB1JKR

And for when it's hot , we hang on the Olympic peninsula

I'd agree with u/muelleej that propane is definitely the way to go for occasional use heat like this. I'd personally recommend a catalytic type heater instead of a direct fired burner though, as the catalytic ones don't produce carbon monoxide. Even when rated for indoor operation, they can still burn up all the oxygen in the room (most have safety shutoffs if o2 gets too low) so you'd need to keep a door or window cracked none the less, but they're a much safer alternative for indoor use.

edit: Here's an example, I have no idea if this brand or model is any good though: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G51BZU/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_8fyCDbWPJPNC8

For a laptop, 130 Watts; for a radio, another 140W, for the USB, 5 Watts, for the camera, 10-15 Watts. For the heater, 1000 Watts, but we'll get to that later. While it might sound like a 350 W continuous inverter would be enough, in truth, they aren't really meant to run at maximum power, and the life expectancy will be drastically reduced. A 750 Watt inverter would be good enough to run everything except the heater.

To power the inverter, you probably want a good deep-cycle battery or two. For calculating how much battery you need, just take the wattage you need and multiply it by the time you need it to run, divide it by the Voltage (12V) and that gives you amp hours (Ah), which is a rating on any battery. You probably want to add a couple, if you calculate that you need 6 Ah, you might want to get an 8 Ah battery because the inverter and the power supplies for your electronics are not 100% efficient..

If you wire the battery(s) and the inverter together, and put them in an egg crate, it's definitely portable. But if you just want a portable drop-in solution, then a UPS may work best.

You can avoid the inverter by buying an automotive DC adapter for your laptop, a USB car adapter, and another automotive DC adapter for the camera. The total cost for all those is going to be roughly equivalent to the inverter but it massively improves the efficiency.

Now, for the heater. You're not going to practically be able to power a heater electrically with batteries. It's not efficient, and the energy density of batteries just isn't where it needs to be. I suggest bundling up, and using something like this, go to Ace hardware, etc and get naptha for fuel, (Should be about $5/quart) or this Using a 20 lb propane cylinder and a hose adapter can make it much cheaper to run.

I say split it. Canvas tent and a mr Heater.

Grab one of these.
http://www.kodiakcanvas.com/10-x-14-ft-flex-bow-vx-tent/

And get a buddy heater. That’s what I do. Also get a CO detector that runs on batteries.

Mr. Heater F232000 MH9BX Buddy 4,000-9,000-BTU Indoor-Safe Portable Propane Radiant Heater https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G51BZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rGJ3BbEGK272F

First Alert CO400 Carbon Monoxide Detector, Battery Operated https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N8OYXI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dHJ3Bb65YD12X

On super cold nights I’ll let it run, but usually I operate it to keep the ten warm while I’m awake at night getting in my bag or in the morning when I wake up to warm up before I get dressed.

Used this setup in 20deg F camping with my two kids and wife. Heater can more than keep up. Also comes with a tip sensor and Ox sensor. But can always use a backup.

19 hours without power...didn't get below 54 in the house..not bad. EVERY person on my block assured me this was highly unusual. I must have jinxed us. Learning my lessons as I go.

I regretted replacing the leaky old gas kitchen stove. meaning i had no serious way to make fire. I ended up putting a candle in a perforated spoon holder from ikea to make tea. and ordered a small stove Esbit Lightweight Camping Stove for Use with Solid Fuel Tablets as long as i can cook tea and ramen i can deal with nearly anything.

I immediately topped off my iphone and kindle with the laptop, and eventually used the small battery charger to recharge the iphone, though i could always charge both in the truck. I order a new battery pack charger that does everything Intocircuit® 11200mAh Power Castle Heavy Duty 5V 2A/1A Dual USB Ports External Battery Pack Charger I really don't think that eton crank radio charges iphones very well.

For the rest of the season i have my eye on a little propane heater.

This is what I use

https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232000-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B002G51BZU

Camping and in my hunting blind

In a tent, I would really only use it to warm up in morning. Or periodically before bed.

WAAAAHHHHHH!

Be prepared.

indoor heat (works in Queens)

I've got a Mr. Heater Buddy for my tiny camper:

http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232000-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B002G51BZU

It's approved for indoor use and you can get a propane tank to hook it to that will last you months. For my camper I basically use it to take the edge off.

Try a Heater Buddy.

Used one September through near the end of November while traveling through colder areas in Montana & Wyoming. Lifesaver.

Only downsides are the little tanks only last 6 hours so you have to wake up and re-light. Bigger tanks are an option though.

Might be wise to buy a carbon monoxide detector just incase. It says you can use it indoors but I don't know how small and tightly sealed your van is.

There are actual indoor safe versions at least according to packaging since it has a oxygen safety in it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G51BZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AVS1DbB2XX224

https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232000-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B002G51BZU

Run that for a little bit, turn off and go to sleep. Wake up cold, run it again till its hot in there, turn off and go to sleep. Rinse and repeat as needed.

You could use an indoor-safe propane heater.

For example, Mr. Heater F232000 MH9BX Buddy 4,000-9,000-BTU Indoor-Safe Portable Propane Radiant Heater for $70 on Amazon.com would heat rooms up to 225 sq ft.

At full blast it uses 0.099 gal/hr so a typical 20 lb (4.7 galllon) tank used for most gas grills should last for almost two days of continuous use. A separate hose and/or filter may need to be purchased to use the heater with a tank larger than 1 lb. See this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2dmLLngjb3s

Electric blanket is an energy hog, not worth it.https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232000-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B002G51BZU

THIS is what we use. But we still use a sleeping bag. heats it up enough to where you can put on your pj's though.

It doesn't snow here in L.A. so I don't worry about heating, but I have herd from a lot of people here that this is the perfect thing to own if it snows where you are, or if it is too cold. http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232000-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B002G51BZU I'd suggest you give it a try for the winter. It has really good rating here and in amazon, so it likely is very good. It has a built in detector for oxygen levels, but you should also pick up a Co2 sensor. I got one. Go check out the ford transit connect with the EcoBoost engine. It is smaller than the express, but has better millage. If you want MPG go for the Transit Connect, but if you want space then Try out the Chevrolet Express, or if you have the money pick up the Long Wheel Base Ram Pro master. It is half a foot longer than the Long Wheel Base Chevrolet Express. Anything longer than that is a Mini-Bus and those won't give you great MPG. Longest vans are the Long Wheel Base Chevrolet Express and the Long Wheel Base Ram ProMaster. The ProMaster being Half a foot longer than the Express. It'll be expensive to own an RV+Car. If you use the shower/toilet you will also have to go to a dump station every so often and refill the water tank. These are just things you will have to do on top of everything else. I don't recommend dumping the water on the street since it gives a bad image. If you do get an RV though I suggest you get like a Geo metro, something that gives you a lot of MPG because you will be returning to the same location everyday. I guess it would depend on how mobile you want to be. For me I travel about 10-15 miles mon - sat then do about 20 - 25 on sunday. Not much, but it is better to stay at the place you are going to than having to return to your RV on a daily basis. It just doubles the drive. that also cuts down on the MPG of the car you use since you have to drive around more. Then there are the other expenses I mentioned. If the RV has the fridge, stove, toilet, heater, ac, pump, and electricity working then it could be worth it. but you have to make sure they work. It would be like returning to a regular house. Other wise it would be like going back to a large boxy van.

you buy one built for it on amazon, Mr. be incredibly polite to people answering your questions on reddit.

we use a https://amzn.to/2pO7jOu when needed. we usually crank it up around dinner time when were done running around get it to a warm temperature and shut it off before bed. Durning the night we just use a good sleeping bag or many confuters. Never had any problems yet. It has gotten down to 17 inside the van, to the point where we've had an icicle coming out of our manual pump faucet. Crank up the heater in the morning, get back in bed for 10 minutes so the van get to a manageable temp then start breakfast. Also a tip we've learned.
10 minutes or so before arriving where we will park for the night we crank the heater of the van on full blast pushing all the hot air into the rear compartment of the van. Usually works great for us. sometimes it even eliminates the need for the mr buddy.

Well, 8 lbs is a much larger piece of plexi than I was imagining. Could you use a thinner/lighter piece?

On second thought, though, perhaps just using some window shrink film would work better. It seals air/water tight, can be easily removed and is cheap. Here's an installation video. It would probably look a lot better than plexiglass, too.

I if you have drafty windows, it might be worth the money to get some window insulation kits. They are plastic that you cut to size to put over your window. First. You out some two-sided tape around the window frame and then you stick the plastic sheet on, then carefully blast it with a handheld dryer (careful not to get too close or you'll melt a hole in the plastic). In the spring when warm weather returns, pull the tape and plastic off. Here's one but there are lots out there..
Duck Brand 281506 Indoor 10-Window Shrink Film Insulator Kit, 62-Inch x 420-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002GKC2GW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_qW1HybQG6R7HM

It's not cold in Boston, but it will be cold in Boston. You're going to love January and February.

Also, you need to get window plastic. I live in an old Somerville house with old wooden drafty windows. The plastic and the putty/clay are key. See:

http://www.amazon.com/Duck-281506-10-Window-Insulator-420-Inch/dp/B002GKC2GW/
http://www.amazon.com/Frost-King-B2-Caulking-19-ounce/dp/B000LNODSQ/

Yep. I have to use them every year because the windows are ~30 years old with aluminum frames. Get the Duck brand: https://smile.amazon.com/Duck-281506-10-Window-Insulator-420-Inch/dp/B002GKC2GW/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1510673743&sr=1-1&keywords=window+plastic

Home Depot sells a different brand that's already pre-cut and doesn't really work if you're trying to apply it to large windows.

Buy some bubble wrap (the kind with the small bubbles) and cut it to fit your panes of glass; tape it on with the flat side against the glass. Bonus points if you double up with the shrink-wrap plastic like this. If you install the shrinkwrap well and use a hair dryer to seal it, it doesn't look bad at all.

Without knowing your house or how its heated I'm not sure about heating your whole room.

There are ceramic electric space heaters that work pretty good, but can suck back electricity and may not heat the whole room.

It regularly gets as low as -45°C here in the winter, so I know what you mean, but my house has a forced air furnace that keeps the whole house reasonably warm.

Edit: does your room have a window? Maybe try one of these https://www.amazon.com/Duck-10-Window-Insulator-420-Inch-281506/dp/B002GKC2GW

That's the stuff. The whole kit is here. The heat-shrink plastic eliminates wrinkles and renders the fix invisible.

Brace yourself.

Because screw drafty windows.

Also, I saw you're in Indiana. Obviously I'm not expecting your home address or anything, but can you say where in Indiana? We're originally from Jeffersonville/New Albany/Clarksville, wondering if it's near there at all.

I know everyone here likes to DIY stuff but if you can get an installer in, you can replace those windows with new vinyl ones for <$700 each (at least in my city) and you might get a rebate from your electric company. Those windows look like they're pretty old and single pane.

If thats too much, you can also buy a window insulation kit for $10 to seal up the air gaps. That'll probably be way easier than trying to repair the damage.

https://www.amazon.com/Duck-281506-10-Window-Insulator-420-Inch/dp/B002GKC2GW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494374413&sr=8-1&keywords=window+insulation+kit

Get weather strip tape and tape all the gaps on your windows. Then cover the entire windows with window film. This will cut down on drafts and make your apartment warmer.

https://www.amazon.com/Duck-281506-10-Window-Insulator-420-Inch/dp/B002GKC2GW/ref=pd_bxgy_60_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=KJY86ZGGHEZY6GQ5Y1Y7

Check this out, I am in Aus. and if I was to buy some it would be this.

I have single-paned windows in my apartment, which leads to some pretty heavy condensation during the winter. The condensation then drips down onto the windowsill, and forms a few small puddles.

Any tips on how to alleviate this? I was thinking of buying a dehumidifier and using some window insulation - something like this

Thoughts/advice?

2x4 Basics 90164 Workbench and Shelving Storage System https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0030T1BRE/


It’s $8 cheaper than when I got it last week.

http://www.amazon.com/2x4basics-90164-Workbench-Shelving-Storage/dp/B0030T1BRE/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1371647403&sr=8-4&keywords=workbench+legs

I used somehting like this and just built a big ass bench outta 2x4's ...had it done in just a few hours for around 100 bucks I think...

https://www.amazon.com/2x4basics-90164-Workbench-Shelving-Storage/dp/B0030T1BRE?psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-iphone-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B0030T1BRE

Its a kit from Amazon.

Here is the desktop version of your link

Looks like shit tbh. Two presses, a vise, and too little space. Should probably put together one of these and do away with my cobbled-together bench, too.

Consider using a kit like this if building a whole bench from scratch is a little too much for you.

http://www.amazon.com/2x4basics-90164-Workbench-Shelving-Storage/dp/B0030T1BRE
If you're somewhat handy this is a good route to go with. You can make it as long as you want and its pretty robust.

I bought this to make a bench:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0030T1BRE/ref=oh_o05_s00_i00_details

It's handy in that you can make it fit any size since it's really just the attachment points for the wood. You can also take it apart and expand it if you get more room.

I'm in the process of wrapping up my new reloading bench. I'm using this kit from Amazon. If you flip through the user-submitted photos you can see a few people who are reloading with it, as well as all sorts of different ideas for configurations.

Given my space constraints I made mine 6x2'. Conveniently that means one 4x8' sheet of plywood gave me enough for two shelves plus two smaller middle shelves. It took me about an hour to cut the wood and put together the workbench. I had Home Depot cut the plywood for me but cut all the 2x4s myself. Total cost for the kit, all the wood, pegboard, some matte poly, and a paint brush is right around $200.

My upper shelves aren't done yet but will be 4' wide to support a nice big piece of white pegboard. I've ordered an LED shop light for lighting.

Even though I just have the lower part done it's awesome. Way way way sturdier than the crappy-ass "workbench" I had from Harbor Freight before.

I'll post pictures once the bench is done and the 550B is mounted to it, likely Saturday.

He probably got them on Amazon. I have the same legs on my bench. They're great - just need to buy some 2x4s and plywood and you're set. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0030T1BRE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1419603607&sr=8-1&dpPl=1&dpID=51IxjCHyB3L&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

Thanks!
It's a frame that you can buy from Amazon and use 2x4s and plywood to make it whatever size you want. Highly recommended.

Get a baseboard heater transformer/relay such as an Aube RC840T-240.

If you can get an IOT device to provide a basic dry relay closure (Insteon 2450 looks good), and can wire the relay transformer into your appliance or its receptacle, it should work.

It looks like the Insteon 2477SA1 might be able to control your 240V load, but still needs wired in.

Here is an example of a combination relay & transformer that would work:

Aube RC840T-240 On/Off Switching Electric Heating Relay with Built-in 24 V Transformer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0037MXM1C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qSldAb96GGBRE

you could with something like this aube relay. That gives the necessary 24v transformer to be able to use a normal hvac thermostat like the nest. But unless you wire multiple relays together, and lose you zones, you would need nests for each zone which is big $$$.

This can be used to hook up baseboard to a thermostat.

http://www.amazon.com/Aube-RC840T-240-Switching-Electric-Transformer/dp/B0037MXM1C

with how many you are wanting to hook up, i honestly couldn't offer any advise there. I know the nests are designed so they can network together and work in sync to keep all the rooms on the same temps, but that would be a very pricey undertaking with around 8 different units, as well as 2 AC units.

Its this Aube relay with built in 24V transformer, so I think it has both the relay and the transformer? I had 2 black wires and 2 red wires coming out of the wall, and he connected those somehow to the black blue and red wires on the relay part. He says he followed the diagrams that came with the relay/transformer and did it however they say it should be done, but yeah I won't know how he did it unless I open it back up and pull it all out. Clearly something isn't right since there's no voltage going to the wires that have been added to the knobs on the transformer part.

> Absolutely no way to use Nest/Ecobee/other similar products.

Wrong. You can absolutely use a low voltage (24VAC) thermostat (Nest/ecobee etc) to control line voltage (120VAC/240VAC) equipment. This requires something like an Aube Relay with a built-in 24V transformer.

There are plenty of examples of folks connecting Nest thermostats to line-voltage heating equipment. Here is one. Here's another.
Here's a third. And for good measure, here's a fourth.

Use a relay + Nest, Ecobee, etc. Common for controlling line voltage baseboard heaters.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0037MXM1C/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Never used this but could bridge your line voltage heaters to a low voltage thermostat.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0037MXM1C

Check this out - looks to be a workable solution:

https://www.quora.com/Is-there-a-work-around-for-the-Nest-Thermostat-to-control-line-voltage-electric-baseboard-heaters

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0037MXM1C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A26RBB5XP2LWJC

Good luck!

pretty good combo as mentioned in the starter shopping list

Don't have one to myself, i use a very good version of these constructions

You have to look after the cfm

I grabbed this, and it's perfect for me. I wanted something quiet, and decided to get something bigger than necessary and run it at low speeds with a controller. This combo is super quiet when all hooked up. My little USB fan is way louder than this one.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004Q2ER5C/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_grZXtb1E3FGP9K58

http://www.amazon.com/VenTech-IF4CF412-Inline-Virgin-Charcoal/dp/B004Q2ER5C/ref=sr_1_25?ie=UTF8&qid=1414443048&sr=8-25&keywords=inline+fans
Would this fan work?

https://www.amazon.com/Hydroponics-Inline-Scrubber-Carbon-Filter/dp/B004Q2ER5C/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1349241681&sr=1-1&keywords=4%22+inline+fan+combo

That's a 4" fan/filter though I might consider a 6" - three plants (especially in hydro) can get surprisingly large.

Do you recommend more than the suggested fan in the build? ( http://www.amazon.com/Hydroponics-Inline-Scrubber-Carbon-Filter/dp/B004Q2ER5C/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1349241681&sr=1-1&keywords=4%22+inline+fan+combo )

How many plants are you growing/how many mature plants can fit?

That type of fan, even 2 in series, is holding you back on your exhaust capabilities. They just don't work well against a load. This is my setup, again- cooling 400W HPS. It will be louder, but it will not be hampered by the load of a carbon filter.

You can find any number of comparable fans to this one for much less than an a/c unit. Might be worth trying before shelling out for the a/c?

The tent is 32"x32"x70"

Filter/Fan is:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004Q2ER5C/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1WW8KYI34ABPU&coliid=I1ADYE8R7V8851

Of course adding the speed controller to it.

That filter/fan combo pumps out 190 CFM The tent is about 41.5 ft-cu. The room itself is 916 ft-cu

$30 wont do much. If you are serious you need something like this.amazon fan carbon filter combo

thats good to hear. id heard flirs on helicopter could see heat spikes through walls. do you happen to know how well this type of filter will handle smell?

http://www.amazon.com/Hydroponics-Inline-Scrubber-Carbon-Filter/dp/B004Q2ER5C/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1349241681&sr=1-1&keywords=4%22+inline+fan+combo

1 in a 3 or 5 gallon pot.

I think it's going to get really hot if all you have is pc fans though. My veg tent is very similar to yours except I have a fan and filter running 24/7 and it still gets pretty warm.

Probably not because then you will have stale old air sitting in your bucket when plants need fresh air in order to grow properly. I'd 100% recommend getting a cheap pc fan for intake man, at the very LEAST drill some holes lower down for passive air intake(and I don't mean small homes, 1/2" at the bare minimum, and a lot of them). What do you mean carbon filter? The fan I was talking about is this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009OWRMZ6

It is very sturdy, simple, and moves a shit ton of air. There is no real use imo with adding a carbon filter on the intake unless you have really gross smelling air or something outside of your bucket. You COULD add a carbon filter to the exhaust if you wanted to help keep the weed smell down later in your grow, but that isn't until late veg/all of flower.

https://www.amazon.com/VenTech-VT-DF-6-DF6-Duct/dp/B005KMTYFK

This is the exhaust fan I got, crazy powerful.

I had the same problem in an older house -- heat rises to the second floor AND it's farther away from the central AC. What you really need is a duct boost fan, which will double the air being pumped to the second floor. You can buy them at any home store for under $30. They can be activated by a sail switch (which senses the flow of air and turns on the fan to boost the flow) or a solenoid that turns it on when the furnace fan fires up.

You can install a duct boost fan in a half hour. Trust me, it's worth it.

https://www.amazon.com/VenTech-VT-DF-6-DF6-Duct/dp/B005KMTYFK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466433488&sr=8-1&keywords=duct+booster

I'd suggest something like this duct fan...

https://www.amazon.com/VenTech-VT-DF-6-DF6-Duct/dp/B005KMTYFK/

I've run a 1000w light and cool tube without cooling it before and suffered no ill effect. I adjust the amount of airflow based on the target temp of the room the lights are in.

4 x 8 tent with two 1000w lights will need 700 - 800 CFM but this still raises ambient temp by 10 degrees Fahrenheit.

Ducting distance also plays a large part in the fan you purchase. If you're just pushing air over the light to lower its operating temp this should do it for both lights.

https://www.amazon.com/VenTech-VT-DF-6-DF6-Duct/dp/B005KMTYFK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1468265570&sr=8-3&keywords=6+inch+inline+fan

If you are taking the heat out of the room and are running anything close to 20 ft of tube use a fan like this

https://www.amazon.com/Hurricane-435-CFM-Inline-6-Inch/dp/B006Z1JLY4/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1468265570&sr=8-9&keywords=6+inch+inline+fan

Just depends really. I would get the 8" with [THIS](VenTech VT SPD-CTRL VTSPEED Variable Dial Router Fan Speed Controller for Duct and Inline Fans https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EVYGPJQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_T765ZEGFCE2F1) controller and then get THIS duct fan and connect it to your intake. Note the duct fan here is 6", I just copied it from my Amazon orders so you might need adapters depending on what size your intake duct is.

I'm not running HPS though so other variables come into play for you. You will have to experiment once you make some purchases.

The Aerogarden grow systems are nice, but they aren't really set up for growing weed. For one thing, you would want to use supplemental lighting, even with the new, powerful lamp that comes with the Ultra. And you would probably want to get a grow tent in which to house it, with a fan and an air filter to cut down on smell during flowering. So in addition to the Ultra, you would still need to make some more purchases anyway.

I contacted Aerogrow when they came out with the Ultra, and asked if it would be a good unit for growing marijuana. They actually didn't want to answer my questions, saying they couldn't condone the use of their product for illegal purposes. I explained that I lived in a legal state, but they weren't having it. So I had to do the research online. Turns out that for weed, more photons = bigger, more potent buds. So you can grow a crop with the Aerogarden Ultra, but you would want to add more light.

I grow 2 plants at a time. I just use regular potting soil and regular fertilizer, Miracle-Gro. I have a small grow tent, and I use a Marshydro 300 lamp. In addition, I have an air filter and inline duct fan. I get seeds from Herbie's; they ship reliably and discretely.

Overall, it's a pretty cheap setup. There are coathangers and duct tape involved. I get a yield of 2 oz cured bud per plant, so that's 4 oz per crop, and I can grow 3 crops per year, so that's 12 oz per year. Plus, I convert the leaves and scrap into bubble hash, using a set of bubble hash bags. So 2 plants at a time yields more than I need for personal use. I could add a 2nd lamp and get a bigger yield, but it's not necessary for me.

Everyone makes a few mistakes on their first crop, so if you can yield 1 oz per plant, you're ahead of the game. I also recommend Jorge Cervantes' Marijuana Horticulture.

Check these out as cheap (under $20) but much better alternatives:

https://smile.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-AXIAL-Muffin-Cooling/dp/B009OWRMZ6 (120mm, 110cfm)

https://smile.amazon.com/VenTech-VT-DF-6-DF6-Duct/dp/B005KMTYFK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1496838497&sr=8-3&keywords=6in+duct+fan (6in duct, 200cfm)

ohh yeah. I bought this one that the guy above reccomended. and i got the speed controller also.

I was typing up my list of shit for my second grow. Lets see if I got my Reddit Formatting Correct. :)

The Details

Seeds

• 1 x Fem White Widow
  
• 1 x Fem Hash Plant
  
• 2 x Fem Super Silver Haze - Scrogged
  
• 1 x Reg Cannasol Durban Poison Bag Seed
  
  Gear
  
  Veg/Flowering
  
  
• 48x48x80 Tent
  
• iPower 1000w
  
• iPower Carbon Filter
  
• Duct Fan One
  
• Duct Fan Two
  
• Fan Controller One
  
• Fan Controller Two
  
• Insulated Ducting
  
  Seedlings
  
  
• Power Cord for Seedlings
  
• Light Splitters
  
• Socket Adapters
  
• CFL's - Way, way cheaper at Home Depot
  
  Medium and Nutes
  
  
• Pro-Cal
  
• Growstones
  
• General Hydroponics Nutes - Lucas Formula
  
• Coco Coir
  
  Meters
  
  
• Light Meter
  
• Infrared Thermometer
  
• TDS Meter
  
• PH Meter
  
• PH Contol Kit
  
• PH Buffer Solution
  
  Pots
  
  
• 5 Gallon Smart Pots
  
• 14 inch Plant Saucers
  
• Scrog Screens
  
• Plastic seedling and one gallon pots
  
  Misc
  
  
• Foil Tape
  
• Ossilating Fan
  
• Snippers
  
• Assorted 4 and 6 inch fans
  
• Assorted thermometers
  
• Garden stakes, Twist ties, etc.
  
• Duct Clamps and duct tape
  
• 2 Timers
  
• Ratchets
  
• Distilled Water
  
• Various sizes of water mixing buckets
  
  
  

Wow for the LED, I will definitively look into LEDs if I decide to upgrade my old 400W HPS.

As for the fan, if it's anything like this type of duct fan, it won't work with the filter.

This is the kind of fan you need

2x https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005KMTYFK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 : One on bottom for intake, one on top for exhaust.

2x https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00INM0750/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 : This MAY be a little too much. There have been a few times where I thought I was getting light burn symptoms, but I just kept moving the light closer to the top of the tent (an inch or two off the roof now)

Other than that its FoxFarms Ocean Forest soil and HyrdoOrganics nutrients. I got the whole line but don't necessarily follow their schedule, I just use things as deficiencies pop up.

I have gotten that red streak in most of the grows I have done. I think is high in phosphate? It's been a while since I have read much into it but I believe as long as the whole stem isn't red, things should be fine. I know the plant turning purple is genetic, but it also depends on temperatures. My tent gets a little cool at night so that may have something to do with it too?

My comment was really targeted toward OpenHAB. If you're running Wink, I think you'd be better off getting one of these GoControl/Linear GD00Z-4 Z-Wave Garage Door Opener. Amazon reviews are pretty solid and Home Depot was selling them for use with Wink for a while. I believe it comes with a tilt sensor, which is probably easier to use than boogering a regular door sensor on like I did. Probably a solid bet. I would have bought one of these if OpenHAB supported the z-wave barrier class.

As far as the MIMOLite... I can't tell you for sure as I run OpenHAB, but it looks like it should work according to these links: post in reddit /r/homeautomation and Amazon review

I'm using a Go Control / Nortek Controls / Linear WADWAZ-1 to sense my garage door. I snagged one of the WNK01-21KIT kits from Home Depot on sale.

I've also got a Honeywell Ademco 958 overhead door contact on my other door that should work as the door contact listed in fortrezz's diagram linked in my previous comment, if you wanted to sort of wire it.

For Wink, by the time you buy both the mimolite and the door contact (wired or z-wave) you might as well just buy the go controls device and get the benefit of secured z-wave barrier class.

I looked into the GoCOntrol briefly and I'm not sure why I passed it by. I have other GoControl peripherals that I like. Is THIS what you are talking about, it is the same price as the Chamberlain setup.

Edit: I remember why i passed this up. I had read people were having issues with the sensor, it doesn't know that it is up or down just that the door moved so if for some reason the laser gets tripped you cannot tell that the door went back open during its attempt to close. This may be incorrect information, I'd love to hear your take. Also I bought the Chamberlain for myself, each of us has 1 large 2 car garage door.

>I don’t know what to do about the garage door as I can’t use MyQ.

I bought this it's an actual legit z-wave device. I'm trying to get away from things that use the cloud, just from a reliability standpoint.

I use the Linear GD00Z-4 Z-Wave Garage Door Opener Remote Controller with my SmartThings hub. Works perfectly.

Here's a well reviewed z-wave alternative.

You could look into a RaspberryPi and the Pi version of the HomeSeer controller software. If you have a little time the software plus a Pi only costs a little more than a SmartThings. Otherwise I use SmartThings and I have really liked it so far.

As far as switches if you do not mind mixing brands this is what I do. Anywhere I have a dimmer, a 3+ way switch, or have the need for scenes I use HomeSeer. If I just have a regular switch I don't need to do anything fancy with I use GoControl switches as they are a bit cheaper if you look at the other sellers.

For the garage I use GoGoGate because I wanted to ability to give others access. I have seen others on this sub use these GoControl Garage Openers with contact sensors to verify open/closed.

I would also look into doing fan control

Depending on the size of your house and how many switches you are replacing this could get you pretty close to your $1k budget. You may need to add cameras later on. Also in your future endeavors I would look into EcoBee/Nest for temperature control.

I have had this one for a fee months now and it works with SmatThings, but not Alexa for now. It works really well and can hookup to just about any garage door opener.

GoControl/Linear GD00Z-4 Z-Wave Garage Door Opener Remote Controller, Small, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M75TEIU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_b0G7ybRFZ6B0X

SmartThings then something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU

Depending on how handy you are with things, you can also semi-roll-your-own with one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/MIMOLite-Z-wave-Multi-Input-Output-Contact/dp/B00B6RZ7MM

Over on the smarttthings community there are several threads where people set this up (search MimoLite)

You can also use any zwave relay. Lots of good info on this over at SmartThings Community.

Once you have it working in the SmartThings, if it doesn't already appear as a switch to Google Home, you can make a virtual switch and then have a smartapp activate the door when the switch is pressed.

Personally, I made my own using an Arduino, a relay board, and a SmartThings "ThingShield" for arduinos. This was years ago before many ready-made z-wave options existed.

OK so my favorite accessory is, by far, the garage door opener and sensor system. It closes my door automatically at night if I forget and leave it open, and sends me notifications when it's left open during the day. Plus as I have the lights controlled, it turns on my main garage lights when I come home at night. https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU

Secondly, I know it's not a switch but I also love the Schlage connect lock. This was the first "smart" device I ever got, well before I had Wink. It's amazing as with remote start cars, and this, I now never have to touch my keys, and it works great for letting people in with temporary codes when you're on vacation. Plus when I go for a run I don't have to carry my keys. It integrates fantastically with Wink letting you set codes, lock door, change settings, etc. I actually only bought the Wink hub because of it since I wanted an easier way to program/control it (well, that and the fact that when Quirky went under Meijer was selling the hub for $5 and the controlled power strips for $10. No lie.) https://www.amazon.com/Schlage-Connect-BE469NX-Touchscreen-Deadbolt/dp/B00AGK9KOG/ref=sr_1_2?s=hardware&ie=UTF8&qid=1479481619&sr=1-2&keywords=schlage+keyless+lock

As for switches, I tend to prefer the Leviton ones as they are the cleanest looking, don't have obnoxious lights (like the GE ones) and are reasonably priced. I only have one Caseta switch, and while it works fine, I just don't know that I care for the style. (On a side note, the Caseta remotes can work for any Wink device if you set up shortcuts for the various buttons). The annoying thing with the GE switches is that you have to push up to turn it on and down to turn it off. While I know that sounds like a silly complaint since physical switches work that way, it's something you have to think about since it doesn't stay up or down, and instead is always in the middle. I have the same complaint with the separate buttons on the Caseta switches. This is another reason why I like the Leviton ones. Only one button which simply toggles the state.

Finally, all the Z-Wave switches work independently of the hub and will ALWAYS respond to your physical commands immediately, regardless of hub or no hub. They are always a physical switch first and remote second.

I did some home automation last year using a Wink Hub2 and bought $45 Z-Wave controllers for my garage doors that include tilt sensors so can tell if the garage door is open and get alerts. Plus it lets you control the garage door (and anything else connected to your Wink Hub) from your phone any place you have an internet connection.

Homelink on the car does better geofencing and the Wink will not auto open the garage doors for "security" reasons so they work really well together.

Bought a new smart garage door opener for about ten bucks, sold it for $60 on ebay. About $30 profit.

I originally was going to use it for myself, but I needs some sort of central hub that I don't have and didn't want to pay for. I would've listed it for $80 but it was missing the tilt sensor (I bought it at an overstock auction - I guess it must've been a return).

You can buy the GoControl/Linear GD00Z-4 Z-Wave Garage Door Opener

Those are compatible with Abode system. I bought one, integrated it with my Abode and now it can control my Liftmaster. It's been working great, I set up automatically closing after a few minutes and when alarm mode is changed to Home or Away.

There are some reviews saying that this controller only works for about a year and then quits, so I'd recommend buying the extra warranty (it was $10 bucks for 3 years on Amazon).

When I get a larger setup with multiple animals I will go with one of the high end systems...at this juncture, its a little overkill.
Perhaps https://smile.amazon.com/WILLHI-WH1436A-110V-Temperature-Controller/dp/B00V4TJR00/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1483826875&sr=8-6&keywords=plug+thermostat

One of these, one of these, and one of these. Don't have any pictures, but its a pretty simple set up. You set the temp you want it at, set the window to .1 or .2 degrees. Don't plug the heater into the controller's outlet unless its underwater, otherwise you blow the fuse. Probably a good idea to start with hot tap water and add some boiling water from the kettle. The heater will keep the water up to temp, no problem, but it can take a while to raise the temp from room temp. I always make sure nothing is going to touch the heater in the water. I'm not sure, but it could probably melt a bag. I have a length of high-themp CPVC pipe that I put over the pot or cambro, and use binder clips to suspend the heater and sensor.

FWIW, I purchased this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Willhi-Wh1436-110v-Temperature-Controller/dp/B00V4TJR00/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1467920542&sr=1-2&keywords=willhi+temperature+controller

I understand the struggle; moved from the mid Atlantic (cool basement country) to north Florida and had to do this too.

I ended up with a real cheap deal on a fridge so that’s what I use, but they’re ill suited to holding heavy objects. A 5gal will break most fridge shelves, though you could probably rig something up with a little wood or something.
I agree a chest freezer or kegerator is a better option. My fridge works fine for 2-3 gal batches tho.

As for if it fits: most full size fridges fit my 5gal bucket fermenter just fine. I recommend taking measurements and bringing measuring tape with you when you look for a fridge or chest.

You’re also gonna need a temp controller unless the fridge/freezer can be adjusted up to the 60’s; most beers won’t ferment at 40F :). I use this one and it’s worked so far:

https://www.amazon.com/WILLHI-WH1436A-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat/dp/B00V4TJR00/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?keywords=fridge+temperature+controller&qid=1563644314&s=gateway&sprefix=fridge+tem&sr=8-9

So I could plug my humidifier into this

Then plug a portable AC unit into this

And I should be good to go. Thank you for the suggestion!

With enough insulation you should be fine, assuming heat won't ever be a problem. Alternatively you can grab one of these and a heater:
https://www.amazon.com/WILLHI-WH1436A-Heating-Temperature-Controller/dp/B00V4TJR00/

You could do scrambled eggs and reasonably thin frittata. Poaching eggs should be pretty easy if you've got a kettle as well.

If you buy this temperature controller unit (shop around though, you should be able to get a better price if you look) then you can turn your rice cooker into a sous vide cooker, all you need is ziplock bags.

I use a crock pot plugged into one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/WILLHI-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-Improved/dp/B00V4TJR00

Probably not as good as a professional sous vide, but much cheaper and it works great for me. There is no agitator, but I find it works pretty well without it if I fill it full of water and am not cramming the crockpot full of bags of meat. I think the natural thermal currents do a good enough job of keeping the temperature even throughout. Plus you can agitate every so often manually.

This is very nicely done. I just wanted to mention though for anyone who might think this is beyond their ability, I've had good results with an analog crockpot and the following controller that the crockpot plugs into. It's a smaller chamber and there is no active circulation, but it gets the job done for some pretty awesome steaks. Still if able though, I would make one like this guys.

Sorry, I don't know how to link other than the full URL on mobile. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V4TJR00/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_udiJwb9S6EN5W

I think you are on the right track. I use this with a cheap submersible aquarium pump and a turkey roaster and it works perfectly. The idea should be the same.

Here you go: Willhi Wh1436

Oops, definitely more expensive than I remember.

1. Here’s the temp-controller outlet: WILLHI WH1436A Temperature Controller 110V Digital Thermostat Switch Sous Vide Controller NTC 10K Sensor Improved Version https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V4TJR00/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tDw2DbE7FAZKY
   
   Here’s the Heater (definitely recommend!): AmazonBasics 500-Watt Ceramic Small Space Personal Mini Heater - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074MX8VN5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LEw2DbP4KC16G
   
   
2. I’m heating everything in a small closet. It’s been running for an hour, consistently holding temperature so far with little heater use! This could be a great setup.
   
   I think this could be incredible for a grow-tent.
   
   I already had the heater as a small-room heater, which was why I thought it was only $30 🤦🏽‍♂️

We have an aquarium fan hooked up to a thermostat and it works wonderfully at keeping the Temps in whatever range I specify. We have it at 61-64°.

LONDAFISH Aquarium Chillers Aquarium Fan Fish Tank Cooling Fan Marine 2 Fan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FCJGZ4H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TljSCb3ETB7D6

WILLHI WH1436A Temperature... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V4TJR00?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I am using this thermostatic controller which is working well for me on my wineador. I have it come on at 69F and off at 65F.

Hi there. Stumbled on your post while looking for sous-vide recipes... Anyway, I do think some people would want a slow cooker with a variable temperature setting. That being said, this turns it into a more complicated machine as you add a very big variable.

I think part of the appeal of a slow cooker is its simplicity, and adding the temperature variable would make the product more complicated and expensive for a function that only a few would actually use.

Also, just adjusting the temp accordingly as you suggest could cause a lot of recipes to have a piece of meat in there for a really long time. In sous-vide cooking it works because it is in a plastic bag and all the meat juices stay in there. If you do not use the plastic bag, the juices will just get dissolved into the cooking liquid and you would end up with a very sad piece of meat (or sauce).

I just bought this little device: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V4TJR00/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1T3LOAKNUUM9N to allow me to use the slow cooker the way you want. I think in the future once people really figure out sous-vide, you will see slow cookers with that function though.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V4TJR00/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is $27.50.. any concerns for this as this is what I'm using?

Would this be one

You can control the temp with an external regulator like this one

I had my tupperdore in the fridge for a few months. I had to buy a thermometer with a relay to regulate the temperature inside. Mind you it was a mini fridge. I wasn't using the main refrigerator where I store the Beer/food. You need to store the cigars in the tupperdore with your humidification device in the tupperdore as well. The fridge alone is for temperature control, not humidity.

I never had any issues with my cigars. I know have a wineador to store my sticks in.

I have a 250 watt heater on a thermostat switch. I spent a lot of time picking these out and they work great.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VXEJ6PC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V4TJR00/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1