Here you go.

Sadly, the [$1498 Panasonic GH4] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LXB9UME/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00LXB9UME&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) and [$1499 Samsung NX1] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NFDZRRA/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00NFDZRRA&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) are both above your budget limit (especially when you factor in the cost of lenses).

The two best video cameras in your price range are the [$795 Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CWLSHUK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00CWLSHUK&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) and the [$698 Panasonic GH3] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009B0WREM/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B009B0WREM&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) (these are sale prices and will probably go up after the holidays).

I own both of these cameras, and both produce awesome video images - but each has its advantages and disadvantages.

If you really want to learn cinematography - and you don't need a still camera, I recommend the Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera. It is the least expensive interchangeable lens camera you can buy that records to RAW or 10-bit ProRes with 13+ stops of dynamic range - straight out of the box. Like Pro cinema cameras, it sets the shutter in degrees rather than fractions of a second and has a built-in headphone jack so you can monitor your audio track (only one other interchangeable lens camera below $1000 has a built-in headphone jack - the Panasonic GH3).

With a [$10 cold shoe] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJFBUCQ/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00HJFBUCQ&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20), a [$24 pistol grip w trigger] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=221603818145&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg), a [$159 LCD viewfinder] (http://www.adorama.com/LCDVFBM.html?KBID=66297), a [$70 external battery adapter] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LPJ1FJ0/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00LPJ1FJ0&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20), a couple of [$10 batteries] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007Q9PWQ/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0007Q9PWQ&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) and a [$17.50 dual battery charger] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=321347920244&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg) [Referral Links] - you'll have the best cinema camera in its class.

Here's what my setup looks like, ready to shoot: https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-f3hbYYV_y8o/VHDp77GMxoI/AAAAAAAAJF8/xnHRvNcCm5o/w724-h543-no/P1020575.JPG

Here is what this little powerhouse cinema camera can do:

Narrative

http://vimeo.com/89563847

http://vimeo.com/94798326

http://vimeo.com/101576471

Documentary

http://vimeo.com/83284391

Music Video

http://vimeo.com/88103618

Travel/Low Light

http://vimeo.com/79531723

There are lots more examples in the [Pocket Cinema Camera group] (https://vimeo.com/groups/pocketcamera) I moderate over on Vimeo.

Although it has a steeper learning curve than a consumer camera, and color grading in post is pretty much mandatory - this is absolutely the best filmmakers' camera in this price range.

Second choice:

If you want something that is a little easier to use, the GH3 might be a better choice. With its built-in electronic viewfinder that continues to work while you're shooting video, 1080/60p frame rate for slow motion, up to 72mbps recording and all metal splash resistant body - this is a great video/still camera for the price.

Here is what the GH3 can do:

Narrative

http://vimeo.com/49420579

http://vimeo.com/59543338

Music Video

http://vimeo.com/53834993

http://vimeo.com/96861718

Documentary

http://vimeo.com/66940018

http://vimeo.com/54076272

There are many more examples on Andrew Reid's GH3 channel over on Vimeo: https://vimeo.com/groups/gh3

And, unlike the BMPCC, it can produce still photography results like these: https://www.flickr.com/groups/gh3/pool/

Hope this is helpful and best of the holidays!

• Gaffers tape
  
  
• Shoot-Thru Umbrella + Holder
  
  
• Phone-to-tripod mount
  
  
• Rocketblower / lenspen / micro fiber cloths

I bought this light and put it on this bracket. The GoPro is attached with a tripod mount. I had to file part of the mounting piece on the light to make it fit on the bracket.

>Should I just buy whatever is basic/cheapest? Or should I rather buy something that's pretty solid that can continue helping me when I advance?

Depends on your budget, and what you plan to do. But generally speaking, going super-cheap tends not to work out all that well. I'd recommend avoiding any sub-$100 flashes for your first speedlight. See this stackexchange Q&A on what flash features to look for and why you might want them.

>Basic lighting stand - I'd like one that's pretty sturdy. Would an amazon basic one suffice? or should I go for something else.

With lighting stands, as with tripods, you're going to be concerned with how much weight they can hold, how high they go, and how stable they are. Be aware, that lighting stands can be used for multiple purposes, not just holding the light (e.g., background stands). And in the future, you may want to dump something bigger than a speedlight onto one. Not saying you want to start with a C-stand, but a monolight probably needs something more substantial than a compact 7' lightstand that's perfectly fine for a speedlight.

Also, typical lighting, if you're, say, trying to duplicate something similar to sunlight, may have to be higher than your subjects. That's why a 6' lightstand may not be sufficient.

I'd also say look at whether or not the stand is air cushioned. But I've slammed my speedlights down on my fingers enough for that to be an issue. :)

>Bowen's Mount

The mount is a bayonet mount for modifiers on studio strobes. Speedlights typically have to be paired with a bracket in order to use a bowens mount modifier.

>Bowens mount softbox - what size should I go for?

Depends on what/how you plan to shoot.

>speed light - Probably most important part of the kit. Do I need one with TTL or high speed sync? I'd like it to just be able to take simple portraits.

This is just me, but everybody skips over learning on-camera flash bouncing when they read the Strobist, without realizing that when Hobby began that blog in 2006, he was aiming it towards other professional photojournalists who'd already hit the limits of on-camera bouncing and knew how to use TTL and speedlights.

So, I would recommend that you put aside thoughts of stands, modifiers, and triggers for now, get a Godox TT685 or V860II that matches your camera brand (so, in your case, $110 TT685-C or $180 V860II-C; both are quite a bit less expensive than a Canon 600EX II-RT), and learn to do on-camera flash, bouncing with TTL and M (Neil van Niekerk's Tangents is awesome for this). It won't take long, but you'll get a sense of how your camera metering works with flash; the elements of flash exposure, and how to balance the flash against the ambient. And more importantly, to pay attention to the quality, intensity, direction, and color of the light, as well as basic ways to control those four factors.

Getting flash exposure, TTL, HSS, etc. under your belt before you start taking a flash off-camera and onto a stand will make learning off-camera flash a whole lot easier than trying to figure out everything all at once.

Also, it's cheaper, faster, and easier to get started if all you have to buy/learn to use is the speedlight. And even after you're doing five-light setups, it's still going to come in handy for event/social shooting, chasing kids around the house, or travelling light. Off-camera flash means packing up a lighting bag to go with your camera bag, and can be a serious hassle.

>Wireless Trigger- Do these come with the speed light?

Some speedlights have radio triggering built in, others don't. Some can be used as transmitters or receivers; some can only be receivers. And some don't have any radio triggering at all, and will require you find add-on units to attach either via a sync port (which a speedlight might or might not have) or the flash foot.

The Godox speedlights I recommended have radio transceivers built-in, and do "dumb" optical slaving. And in the Canon/Nikon/Sony versions, they also do "smart" optical slave or master. And they have sync ports. So you have a lot of choices on how to trigger it. And the Godox system has a lot of expansion options if you decide not to shoot Canon any more, or to expand to bigger lights than speedlights.

The V860II uses a li-on rechargeable battery pack instead of 4xAA batteries. The pack has roughly 3x the capacity of a set of AAs, so if you plan on all-day shooting and need to take, say, a thousand flash images at a time (say, you're shooting a wedding all day long), then they can be awesome. As a hobbyist, I've only ever needed to swap out AAs once on a shoot, so i'm okay with the TT685-C instead.

>US based, so I can order from amazon or just B&H.

B&H sells them as Godox. Adorama (who also are a seller on Amazon) sells them as "Flashpoint R2 TTL" flashes. Both B&H and Adorama will cover the unit for the warranty period; other retailers may not.

[edited for typos and to add in monolight considerations on lightstands].

I'm very happy with my Godox gear so far. I also considered Yongnuo, but I like Godox' wireless system is a lot better. In fact, I think right now they have one of the best wireless systems on the market.

Basic setup:

A hot-shoe TTL flash is a great place to start. I'd suggest the TT350N for that; it's small and convenient to carry. It's strong enough to light up a dark room, and to overpower ambient lights. If you use it as a bounce flash, you don't really need any other accessories.

I use the TT350 for all the bounce photography. Bounce is very simple and convenient. Its small size is very handy here, because it doesn't throw off the camera balance or really get in the way.

I personally bought the V860II-N as my first speedlight. I realized it was a beast when it arrived; way more flash than I needed on my hot-shoe. Here's a size comparison: http://imgur.com/a/jFpvM

I'm glad I have it though; it's great in multi-point lighting and it's nice to have a more powerful option should I need it.

Off-camera setup:

The next step up from there is to move the flash off-camera. For that, you'll need a stand, a head, and a light modifier.

You can use a tripod, but a light stand is a lot simpler to setup and break-down. To mount a light to the stand, you'll need and either a hot-shoe adapter or the flash foot. The simplest and cheapest modifier is a photography umbrella. You'll need a mount to attach an umbrella to the stand, though most hot-shoe adapters will also hold the umbrella.

I use the Godox S mount adapter and a soft-box. The benefit of the adapter is that it can use other Bowens mount light modifiers if I want to try them in the future. It also holds an umbrella.

You'll also need a way to trigger the flash. You can use your on-board flash for this, but I went with the Godox X1 trigger. This is a radio trigger, and does TTL. It cost $40. A very nice thing about the X1 trigger is that it can control the speedlights remotely; I can change power and other settings from my camera, which cuts down a lot of back-and-forth. It's also a lot more reliable and convenient than using an optical trigger.

Multi-point setup:

The next step after that is multi-point lighting. If you already have a speedlight, radio trigger, etc. All you really need are more flash heads. The nice thing about multi-point lighting is that they don't all need to be the same speedlight. Usually, you use different power levels and modifiers anyway. In my case, I have a big powerful speedlight, and a small portable speedlight. When I'm out and about, I can grab whichever is best for the job.

You can use manual (non-TTL) flashes for multi-point lighting. This is best if you don't intend to use ambient as a light source or don't mind fiddling to balance ambient with the flash. A lot of Godox's manual flashes still have built in wireless support, which makes them a good inexpensive solution.

The sky is the limit:

From there, there's a whole world of lighting. Strobes powerful enough to make the sun look dim, lighting modifiers, etc.

Quick edit: A number of companies resell Godox' products. Flashpoint is the most prolific, but there's also Bolt, Neewer, and a couple others.

Sure, it's pretty straight forward.


I used this L Bracket
to mount this
Gimbal. For lighting up my dark house/living room, this
LED Light works great. It's very bright.

To mount my old iPhone 4s as a monitor, I used a couple of these and a cheap iPhone case.

This produces very stable videos that turn out great for indoor parties, Christmas morning, etc. The WG gimbal mounts easily on my moutain bike or helmet as well, it's very flexible.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I09WHLW x 2 - Speedlights - $56

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Wireless-Speedlite-Receiver-Universal/dp/B00A47U22U - Wireless Trigger - $19

https://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Photography-Light-Stands-Cases/dp/B001WB02Z4 - Light Stands - $29

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Professional-Universal-Speedlite-Umbrella/dp/B00JJJR7PY - x2 - Cold Shoe - $22

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0132I34K4 - Octobox - $23

https://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Premium-Shoot-Through-Translucent-Umbrella/dp/B005ODKMOC - Shoot though umbrella - $14

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-43-inch-Collapsible-Multi-Disc-Reflector/dp/B002ZIMEMW - 5 in 1 reflector - $20

That brings you for a full starting light setup that can be used for headshots and starting boudoir for $183. And you even have flexablity in there to use a 1 light setup with reflector or use 2 lights. You would want a few sandbags to keep the gear stable, but I am not including those in the price.

Now for a background setup

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E6GRHBO/ref=psdc_3444601_t1_B00MTF6ZVC

Is a good basic stand but hard to fit under your budget with the above lighting gear.

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Studio-Collapsible-Backdrop-1-8x2-8m/dp/B00UWL02PU is also an okay starting backdrop, Grey can be turned into white or black. I will warn you that you will need a fabric steamer to get the lines out, but that is pretty much the same however you go with cloth. Another more expensive choice is to go with seamless paper, I love working with paper, but it is an ongoing expense to use it.

Now if you are going to make this her studio all the time, they make http://www.homedepot.com/p/EUCATILE-32-sq-ft-96-in-x-48-in-Hardboard-Thrifty-White-Tile-Board-HDDPTW48/205995949 that you can use to make a great background. Or to me the better option if you are going to use a room as a full time studio, paint the walls, put down hardwood or laminate, and you have a great studio setup.

Hi /u/sanityrepresent - I built a rig around the pistol grip handheld setup seen here: https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-f3hbYYV_y8o/VHDp77GMxoI/AAAAAAAAJF8/xnHRvNcCm5o/w724-h543-no/P1020575.JPG

By adding a couple of rails, a cold shoe extender and a shoulder pad, I was able to provide mounting points for a mic, a ring light and, when I can afford it, a rail mounted battery pack.

Here's what the rig looks like: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-K2Z7iz5-bRw/VHqL3cK9OrI/AAAAAAAAJH4/OYrYg70RQ0E/w724-h543-no/P1020685.JPG

Here's the parts list:

• Light is a [$199 F&V R-300 ring light (on sale right now for $179)] (http://www.adorama.com/FVR300.html?KBID=66297) with a [$40 rail mount] (http://www.adorama.com/FV15RMR300.html?KBID=66297)
  
  
• Viewfinder is the [Kinotehnik LCDVFBM] (http://www.adorama.com/LCDVFBM.html?KBID=66297)
  
  
• Mounting plate is the [$40 SmallRig Camera Mounting Plate] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0082TO9TO/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0082TO9TO&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20)
  
  
• Shoulder pad is a [$33 Dual use DSLR Shoulder Pad & Shotgun Rest for 15mm Standard Rigs] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=281140063894&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg)
  
  
• Quick release is the [$30 Giottos MH621 Quick Release Adapter with Short Sliding Plate] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0010SIAV2/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0010SIAV2&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20)
  
  
• Shoe extension is a [$30 Kamerar 20 cm Black Hot Shoe Extension] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B7QQ91U/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00B7QQ91U&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20)
  
  
• Pistol/trigger grip is a [$24 JJC HR-DV Remote Handle Pistol Grip for Blackmagic design pocket cinema camera] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=221603818145&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg)
  
  
• Rods are [$20 40cm (16") 15mm black rails with end caps] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DUK1K3I/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00DUK1K3I&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20)
  
  
• The shoe on top of the camera is a [$10 SmallRig cold shoe] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJFBUCQ/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00HJFBUCQ&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20)
  
  
• When I can afford one, I will get a $165 Ikan rail mounted BMPCC battery mount for either [V-mount] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LPJ1XJM/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00LPJ1XJM&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) or [Anton Bauer] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LPJ1XL0/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00LPJ1XL0&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20)
  
  With the latest firmware upgrades and this rig, the BMPCC is a real joy to shoot with. And when I want to go back to putting the camera in a jacket pocket, I can.
  
  Good luck!

My current development rig has 64gig of ram and it is incredible - 300 tabs open on chrome, virtual machines galore, adobe suite programs open left right and center with no noticeable impact for the VR system. If you've got money to spend, more than 16GB of ram and quality m.2 pcie ssd's really don't go amiss.

You could invest in a cube and multiple green screens for mixed reality recording, if that's your jam. The vive tracking pucks are also awesome for development, and work in some games already - like climbey.

Perhaps get a really nice quality stand for the vive? This one is pretty beautiful https://www.etsy.com/nz/listing/453985450/htc-vive-stand

Will you be mounting your base stations to the walls or using tripods? I use tripods with magic arms on each end to easily position them.
https://www.amazon.com/Dotop-Articulating-Friction-Mounts-Monitor/dp/B01L8LNYL6

https://www.amazon.com/Manfrotto-1052BAC-Compact-Stand-Black/dp/B003AM38DG

These are also good instead of magic arms:
https://www.amazon.com/EXMAX-Degree-Tripod-Camcorder-Bracket

These vive face covers are much nicer than the original ones that come with the vive https://www.amazon.com/Vive-Memory-Foam-Face-Replacement/dp/B01J46XWXW

Silicone cover for vive headset:
https://www.amazon.com/Hyperkin-GelShell-Headset-Silicone-Skin-Vive/dp/B01LPSKOXS

Silicone cover for controllers:
https://www.amazon.com/Hyperkin-GelShell-Controller-Silicone-Skin-2-Pack/dp/B01LEZO0OQ

And for software..
To The Top is an incredible parkour game with similarities to mirror's edge.

Gravity Sketch I just love for surface modelling.

Google Blocks is an awesome little low poly modeller too.

The Wave VR is a virtual festival. Well worth checking out.

Blortasia is a simple but beautiful psychedelic romp through a huge art work.

I recently bought Lone Echo on the oculus store and played it on the vive via revive. Totally awesome story, narrative driven, fun mechanics. Flying around space on the rings of saturn..who wouldn't want that?

A simple pic stand and flash bracket with a reversible umbrella and a YN660 transmitter would be the best way to get off camera versatile flash for cheap.

In the future, every Monday, Weds, and Friday we have an official questions thread reserved for these types of questions.

L Bracket on the bottom, monitor plus microphone on that, done. Way cheaper than the handles and works quite well in my experience.

Use the Playmemories app to display live view on your smartphone. Then mount your phone on the hotshoe with this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071CFDBJ7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uVfUzb22XYZQ4

You can even mirror the live view on the phone to make framing easier.

Sorry, lightstand, bracket, umbrella - bracket is for putting speedlites and umbrellas on stands, rather than monolights or flash heads that go straight on a stand, and have their own holes for umbrellas.

Oops, my bad. This is the one I bought from Amazon

• $30 flash
  
  
• $40 remote flash triggers. There's a $25 version but I haven't used those. These have worked flawlessly for me
  
  
• $15 intervalometer/remote shutter release cable, or the $30 wireless version
  
  
• Maybe a flash stand with a modifier that uses this kind of S-type bracket
  
  
• A nice tripod in the $100-150+ range
  
  
• $6 bulb/rocket blower and a pack of lens cloths from an eyeglass store
  
  
• $125 50 mm f/1.8 lens
  
  
• A kit telephoto lens (55-250 or even a 75-300 is super fun)
  
  
• A trip to practice the genre you're intro lately, or maybe even a new field

I own an a65 and use this


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003URJP5Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm pretty sure the nex7 and a65 have the same Minolta shoe

I don't know how accurate it is, but this hotshoe cover is also a spirit level that does the job for me in terms of letting me know if I'm wildly unlevel.

Well, If filmmaking and video is your goal with these cameras I wouldn't recommend either.

If you're just starting and serious about video production here's a pretty effective starter kit that's just a tad over your $400 budget.

[Camera: Canon Vixia HF R400] (http://www.amazon.com/Canon-VIXIA-R400-Advanced-Camcorder/dp/B00AWZFJ22/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395594961&sr=8-1&keywords=canon+vixia+hf+r400)
This is a decent starter camera. It's got a decent range of focal lengths, optical stabilization, microphone input, progressive frame-rates and most of all designed with video in mind. You'll need a SD Card

I noticed the cameras you picked resembles DSLRs but keep in mind that these in particular are not and with fixed lenses which defeats the purpose of having DSLR for video. Trust me, learn how to be effective with a camcorder first! Then, when your skill requires more artistic control you can upgrade.

Audio:
[Microphone:] (http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR-6550-Condenser-Shotgun-Microphone/dp/B002GYPS3M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395595673&sr=8-1&keywords=shotgun+microphone)
Having clean audio is probably the most important part filmmaking! The key is to get the mic as close to your subject as possible and away from your camera. You'll need a cable. If you need to mount it to your camera use this [bracket.] (http://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Photography-Bracket-Standard-Mounts/dp/B005Z4ROIW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395595189&sr=8-1&keywords=flash+bracket) This bracket will also help keep the camera stabilized when you go handheld.

Keep in mind this won't deliver perfect audio but it will be a MASSIVE improvement to the on board microphone and learning how to record with decent audio in mind is your first step into becoming a pro.

[Lighting:] (http://www.amazon.com/Bayco-SL-300-Clamp-Aluminum-Reflector/dp/B007RKKEHA/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1395595354&sr=8-17&keywords=can+lights)
Lighting is EXTREMELY important. A couple of these can lights will not only help with your image quality but put in you in the right direction for learning how to properly light your scene. You could start with daylight equivalent CFL bulbs.

[Tripod:] (http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-60-Inch-Lightweight-Tripod-Bag/dp/B005KP473Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1395595413&sr=8-3&keywords=tripod)
You NEED a tripod. This one is cheap and cheerful. Looping the ends of a couple rubber brands around the pan handle and the other end around your finger will help deliver some smoother pans!

Total: $425/£258

Some things to keep in mind:

• These are far from pro tools but if all used in conjuncture you can deliver a much more effective production than just merely using a camera on a tripod.
  
  
• Build a crew of friends. Although you can "one man band" it I don't recommend it because one of coolest things about film is that it's almost always a group effort towards an artistic goal!
  
  
• Most importantly, the equipment are just tools. They don't tell the story; you do! Your film/video is only as powerful as the story you want to tell!
  
  Best of luck to you!
  
  edit: formatting
  

Are you thinking about buying a D7000 OR a Canon as your next camera when you already own a Pentax?

Are you just going to keep on spending a hefty amount of cash for DSLR kits rather than invest in lenses that are compatible with the camera you already have?

You do know that lenses affect IQ much more than the body, right?

In other words, you do know that you can greatly improve your IQ with a $180 SMC Pentax DA-L 35mm f2.4 over getting a $800 Nikon D7000 + kit?

>The image quality is fantastic and it's very cheap. If you do more technical shooting like focus stacking, long exposures and astrophotography, video (and you need AF) then you will need something more serious than the K-r.

You can do long exposures on any DSLRs. All you need is a remote shutter, a tripod/firm ground, and bulb mode. If you do not have a remote (for reducing camera shake), you can set the shutter delay to 2s, but you will have to set the shutter to a timer.

As for astrophotography, the K-r comes with a built in intervalometer just like the Nikon D7000/D5100. You can also buy the Pentax GPS unit, which greatly aids astrophotography.

>The K-x should be dirt cheap at this point and the image quality is also very good but this year's sensors are a slight improvement on last year's.

The K-x and the K-r have the exact same sensor and they have the exact same camera image quality.

It might be better to go with something nicer than those. $14 for cheap plastic crap is kind of absurd, plus they have pretty bad reviews. I got these, and they're only $5 more each.

This is a little more secure but I've never had any issues with the regular umbrella brackets, either.

Just a suggestion, use the Neewer Flash Bracket. It's way more manageable for holding the flash.

You can also just epoxy the dish to the bracket. If you don't want to sacrifice the flash bracket, attach a speedring adapter to the dish.

Good effort though, results are what matter.

I used tension rod to mount my base stations: https://lychee.ariaaurum.com/uploads/medium/1ef396dd5fbe8eb1026b211ed63b5337.jpg

Tension rod: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L43HT2E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Clamp mount: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CSMCPKQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Rode's VideoMicro](http://amzn.to/2d9pZRN "Rode VideoMicro") may be a good option for your needs. It comes with a fuzzy windscreen which should help reduce wind noise.

You can use a flash bracket (example) to use accessories like microphones and LED lights with your camera. The bracket attaches via the camera's tripod mount and provides you with a couple cold shoe mounts.

Speedlite holders: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JS3MINC

I own a couple of these and they are fantastic!

Gels: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00URG1C2C

No need to go with the expensive Rogue set. I love these by Selens.

Lighting gear bag:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LEE7J0U

This has been put through a bit of use and has held up great so far.


Lighting stands

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L4YR0BS/

Speedlites

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010XCEABO/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JAAXH1A/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OYQNHWY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'd go for an AD200 Pro with their X-Pro wireless trigger. If you've got money left over, you could grab one of their smaller lights for fill / background lighting.

I use this mount to hold mine, which is infinitely quicker than the included mount. There's also a good variety of modifiers that come in Bowens mount.

I thought i'd share what I just came up with.

I am moving to Germany at the end of the month for about two years, and I will be doing a LOT of traveling during this time. To preserve memories and share my experiences I decided to upgrade and change around my camera bag. I sold my d3300 and lenses and wanted a setup for something portable and not cumbersome that I can take in any situation without being annoying.

My activities I want to capture:

• snowboarding
  
• Wakeboarding
  
• Motorcycling
  
• City adventure
  
• Hiking
  
• etc
  
  Here is what I put together:
  
  

  
  

• $450 GoPro Hero6
  
• $550 on Ebay - Sony RX100 MkIII for stills and some video
  
• $99 Zhiyun Smooth q to fly both the gopro, RX100, and my galaxy s8
  
• $27 leg bag to carry it all conveniently
  
• $70 high speed 128gb sd card for gopro
  
• $20 plate to mount gopro to gimbal
  
• $20 mount set for gopro with high ratings and lots of pieces
  
• splurged here... $50 mount for the motorcycle
  
• $25 two extra batteries and charger with 3 ports for GP
  
• $14 charger plus two extra batteries for the rx100
  
• $9 case for the rx100 so I can cram it in and out of leg bag without fear of harming the camera
  
• $14 grip for front of rx100 so it's easier to shoot with one hand
  
• $40 Boya BY-MM1 Micro Shotgun Mic
  
• $9 mount to attach boya mic to gimbal
  
  Grand total: $1377
  
  You can prob get the gopro plate for less but this one moves it the furthest away forward from the gimbal so it's less likely to get in the shot when shooting in superview or whatever gopro calls it these days.
  
  Also you can get a mkIV or higher as some have stated here if you want to shoot in 4k gimbal stablilized with all three cameras (s8 or equivalent phone included)
  
  I know i'm going to get flamed because it's not a sony mirrorless for what I paid, but for me being able to have all of these on me at any time is really helpful. Also you don't always have to carry anything but the gimbal and your cellphone in order to capture good video, which you will always have on you.
  
  Also I was hesitant to save the money on the Boya Mic over the RODE but the sound quality from it is very good.
  
  And one last note, I got the mkIII because I will be using the rx100 90% of the time for stills and very rarely for video. Really the only video with the rx100 will be low light and night video because of the large image sensor for it's form factor.

Clamps work best I purchased this clamp ball/adapter . So if you have something similar already you may be good to go.

http://www.amazon.com/Smallrig%C2%AE-Clamp-Mount-Ball-Adapter/dp/B00CSMCPKQ

Here's the set up I use and like it very much. I looked at the light stands too, but didn't want the feet on the stand protruding into my play space. They have worked great and have had no issue. You may be able to find shorter ones, but I have high ceilings and had to go with these.

http://www.amazon.com/FastCap-Support-System-144-Inches-3HAND5/dp/B000067S12?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01

http://www.amazon.com/Smallrig%C2%AE-Clamp-Mount-Ball-Adapter/dp/B00CSMCPKQ?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

You can get shorter ones from Harbor Freight for a lot cheaper. They just weren't long enough for my ceilings. The one from Amazon is much sturdier too.

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-in-1-support-cargo-bar-66172.html

Here is a fairly universal kit I would buy:

• http://mpex.com/lumopro-lp605-compact-7-5ft-stand-w-ground-spikes.html
  
• http://mpex.com/lumopro-lp633-compact-umbrella-swivel-w-variable-cold-shoe.html
  
• http://mpex.com/westcott-43-collapsible-umbrella-with-removable-cover-15-folded.html
  
• http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Speedlite-Panasonic-Fujifilm-single-contact/dp/B004LEAYXY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415811732&sr=8-1&keywords=tt560
  
• http://mpex.com/dot-line-15-male-to-male-pc-cord.html
  
• http://www.amazon.com/Pixel-TF-322-Adapter-Dedicated-Flashgun/dp/B004RZ9MGC/ref=sr_1_1?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1415812753&sr=1-1&keywords=nikon+canon+hot+shoe+sync+adapter
  
  It uses a sync cord. She can get radio sync or something else later and really grow this kit. Also point her to Strobist 101 to give her instructions and ideas.

I have the a6300, sigma 30mm f1.4 & crane v2. I love it!

You will need something to balance the camera on the crane correctly. Either a quickrelease plate or something like a hot shoe adapter on top of the camera https://www.amazon.com/Camera-Mount-Tripod-Screw-Adapter/dp/B018UJLIOE

Some things to consider tho, shutter speed is a problem. And if you want to shoot in 1080p the quality isnt really great. You can shoot in 4k and then render it to 1080p in post if you like.

All I'm finding is this item which has a tripod 1/4 hole on the bottom and a flash shoe on top.

You can also get a base like this and attach a cold shoe mount to the top of it for the same thing.

This thing.

Maybe someone makes some accessory shoe mount to tripod thread adapter so that you can mount this on a tripod and then mount the camera upside down into the shoe thing? Lmao it feels weird just to type this so it probably does not exist?

EDIT: Well shit, apparently it exists it looks like it's made to support accessories though, and not an upside down camera, but I reckon it could help to just line up the shot while still having to hold the camera a bit.

The D5100 is not a great choice for video, as it doesn't allow you to adjust aperture while shooting video which makes it a real pain getting your exposure correct.

For ~$100 more than the SX60HS you could grab a Panasonic G7 which also supports 4k and has a whole lot more video-focused features; and also there's quite a range of relatively inexpensive M43 glass that costs a lot less than Nikon mount lenses.

Generally if you're shooting with DSLR or mirrorless you'll want an external audio solution. For example, you could combine whatever camera you end up buying with an inexpensive recorder such as a Zoom H1. You can then use a Attenuating cable with headphone splitter to allow you to route the audio from the recorder into the camera for synchronised recording while also allowing you to listen to the audio with headphones.

You can connect the camera, microphone, and recorder together using a cold shoe extender and a 1/4"-20 screw to cold shoe adapter for the audio recorder.

Given that it sounds like you'll be recording in very noisy environments anyway, I wouldn't worry too much about handling noise, especially if you mount whatever microphone you get in a suspension mount.

Thanks for linking the Harbor Freight poles. They are half the price of the ones I've seen used elsewhere. I chose to get these clamps because they have better reviews and should be able to fit on smaller poles. With luck I'll be able to clamp to the silver top part of the bar hopefully making it sturdier and lower profile for transport.

Well there is a feature in my camera menu called astrotracer. From what I can gather reading online if I buy this $200 gps accessory http://www.amazon.com/Pentax-GPS-Unit-Hotshoe-Accessory/dp/B0054YKVBK I can do what it describes here.

" The unit calculates the movement of stars and other objects using the latitude obtained from GPS data and the camera's alignment data (horizontal and vertical inclinations and direction) obtained from the unit's magnetic and acceleration sensors. It then shifts the camera's image sensor in synchronization with the movement of these objects. This means that all celestial bodies are captured as solid points rather than blurry streaks, even during extended exposures. "

Haha you're welcome. It is an excellent system.

> I should be able to put these things on my tripods as lightstands, right?

Not so much tripods, although you can probably find something for that too. Usually people use dedicated light stands. There is a nifty adapter godox makes that allows you to clamp in a speedlight and attach Bowens type modifers (the same as their strobes) such as octoboxes and softboxes. There is a hole in there too so you can attach a umbrella.

then propably something along these lines.

​

Top Handle Attached L Grip

​

or this:

​

L Grip combined with a cold shoe mount on the handle

Yes, it does. They're not called elbows directly, they're the "Bend Goal", but don't let the name fool you. They're elbows.

If you want to completely fill in the tracking points on the VRIK component, you've got 10 slots to fill: (with my recommended device in parens)

Spine: Head Target (HMD)

Spine: Pelvis Target (Tracker 1 on Waist/back)

Left Arm: Target (Left Controller)

Left Arm: Bend Goal (Tracker 2 on Left Elbow)

Right Arm: Target (Right Controller)

Right Arm: Bend Goal (Tracker 3 on Right Elbow)

Left Leg: Target (Tracker 4 on Left Foot)

Left Leg: Bend Goal (Tracker 5 on Left Knee)

Right Leg: Target (Tracker 6 on Right Foot)

Right Leg: Bend Goal (Tracker 7 on Right Knee)

The trackers do not come with any sort of strap or mount - I've been improvising my own, with varying degrees of success. So far I've been using the following:

1/4" shoe mounts to screw in to the Trackers Amazon Link

Velcro Straps (2 for elbows, 1 for feet, and waist (using 3 belt loops)) Amazon Link

I've also been trying the suggestion of using cardboard boards to reduce the movement. I didn't have problems really with the elbow or back ones, but the feet still jiggle way too much. Inspired by the ikinema video, I ordered (and just got, today) these:
Foot Arch Supports Amazon Link

It turns out one isn't enough to dampen the shaking when walking, but two, while not perfect, is a big improvement. (Enough that I ordered two more, arriving tomorrow.)

i mean they are pretty standard, but am getting this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018UJLIOE

hey dude! i have a gopro hero 3 silver. I use it for recording live sets. The zoom h1 mic is pretty good for the price, and you can find it cheaper used. it's external so you'll have to sync the audio and video, but it's worth it.


i use this housing
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J8CFZUG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

and use this on top of it to mount the zoom h1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005005EEM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

the zoom sits directly on top!
Imgur

If that's a 1/4" threading on the Vive Tracker, you could just buy a wide collar or harness, punch a hole in it, and screw something like this (Amazon Link) into it to attach the Tracker. Might want to shorten it a bit though.
The ideal way of integrating it would be an overlay that works in every VR application, similar to chaperone.


There's a chance that your pet will not like having a relatively heavy object attached to it though, and will try to remove it.

It would make more sense and be safer to put the pet in a different room though.

one of these, with some washers first, or both of them. or buy a cheap hack saw.


https://www.amazon.com/HDE-Thread-Converter-Adapter-Camera/dp/B005005EEM/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1469062385&sr=8-9&keywords=Tripod+Screw+For+Flash+Hot+Shoe

pics would help!


i use these little guys for a lot of things, including mounting my base stations, and i've never had any problems with them holding their grip.

I recently got a Godox V860ii and am looking into getting an off camera flash setup for it.

What are the benefits of using a S-Type Bracket vs just using swivel mount? One is almost twice the cost of the other, and I'm willing to invest, but is there any other benefit besides the Bowen mount system for the link of the one I put below? Thanks!

Bowens S Mount: https://www.amazon.com/Godox-Bracket-Speedlite-Softbox-Honeycomb/dp/B00JS3MINC/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=s+bracket&qid=1565634775&s=electronics&sr=1-2

Swivel Mount: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072JRNNTG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AM5WHBW8CZ8MA&psc=1

With the godox the strobe has a radio receiver built in, so you just need the flash unit and the transmitter.

Then you can buy a light stand and an adapter that holds the strobe: Godox S-Type Bracket Bowens Mount Holder for Speedlite Flash Snoot Softbox Honeycomb +CLOUDSFOTO Cleaning Cloth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BJLJY84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_n9orDbFBQ0G7M

$179 - 2 pack flash with trigger

Umbrellas you already own

$150 - Calumet backdrop stand kit

$26 - cowboy 2 pack studio light stands

$19 - Godox S bracket bowens mount flash mount

Total price for home studio = $393 + plus what ever you'll spend on a backdrop.

Here u go!
http://www.amazon.com/Smallrig%C2%AE-Clamp-Mount-Ball-Adapter/dp/B00CSMCPKQ?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

& the acutal pole from harbor freight

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-in-1-support-cargo-bar-66172.html

That looks like it could work. I'm also found another [option]
(http://www.amazon.com/Smallrig®-Clamp-Mount-Ball-Adapter/dp/B00CSMCPKQ/ref=pd_sim_421_6?ie=UTF8&dpID=41K7sL65EaL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0RNY6YR417R9S7FAKHS1) which might work for me.

> Now, Pentax has an AstroTracking capability in the camera that tracks the stars in real time. It requires their GPS unit.

> http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/121821724041?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true

> You will also need a tripod (start off with a used one off of craigslist for ~$25) and a external shutter release

> http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/121821724041?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true

You posted the same link twice.

• Here's a review of the astrotracer.
  
  
• Unit on Amazon

I'm going to be taking some generic "corporate" headshots at work. I currently have a nikon d3300 and I think the 18-55 kit lens will do the job, but I'd like to dip my toes in lighting (ambient lighting is pretty horrible throughout the office).

I'm reading through various strobist articles and it seems I can use one off camera flash with an umbrella on a stand to get decent shots. The only thing I'm not sure about is how best to trigger the flash? Do I need two of these and a sync cable???

A quick Google search confirms that it does—something like this perhaps? But that locks you into only ever being able to use it with Speedlights.

Wouldn't it be wiser to get a regular speedring and then add an optional speedlight bracket? Something like that, say. So if you wanted to use the softbox with a studio head eventually, you could.

While we're at it, I also suggest one of these.

I hate how that hotshoe is uncovered and we aren't supplied with a cover.

I love these. They hold the flash in a much more sturdy manner than the umbrella brackets.

http://www.amazon.com/Godox-Bracket-Speedlite-Softbox-Honeycomb/dp/B00JS3MINC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1457722832&sr=8-4&keywords=bowens+softbox+mount

Get this and a bowens speedring and then this

Anyone ever use the Smallrig Canon C100 cage? I have been on the fence about getting a cage for C100. Or rather on larger cameras, do you recommend a cage?

​

For a run and gun style do the cages end up getting too bulky? Or do you just cut down on the camera as much as possible?

​

Thanks!

​

https://www.amazon.com/SmallRig-Camera-Video-Canon-Clamp/dp/B01DOWRFMG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1539716044&sr=8-2&keywords=c100+cage

think i found it: https://www.amazon.com/Fancierstudio-Photography-Bracket-Standard-Mounts/dp/B005Z4ROIW/

These are nicer than the Grifti ones:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CSMCPKQ

The kit lens is good. I still use it in certain situations because it is versatile and it's not the end of the world if it gets broken. You're probably going to want something that's better in low light though.

I HIGHLY recommend getting the Panasonic 25mm f/1.7. It's a fantastic little lens and it's not too pricey as far as lenses go.

You're definitely going to want a tripod that is heavier duty than that, as well as a fluid head. And get yourself some kind of stabilizing solution for when you go handheld, even if it's just a cheap handle or something like that.

I'd recommend mounting them both on a Y-Bracket if you need it cheap and light, with one of these to mount the zoom.

You can also take sound off camera really quick and easy if the opportunity arises.

One thing to know ... that body is one of the last Sony made with the old Minolta hot shoe, the connection if you use an external flash/speedlight. There are flashes that you can fit, or you can use standard speedlights as well via a simple adaptor. Here's an example of one, less than $10. That will come into play down the line if you expand into using different lighting options.

I'm planning a setup like that. My current plan is to use the QHY mini guidescope, adapt it to a holder with 1/4"-20 screws and mount it on this

And use a Raspberry Pi 3 + smartphone/tablet for control. Check this out: http://www.cloudynights.com/topic/551998-iastrohub-30-iot-for-astrophotography/

This is the only one I could find that would fit:

SMALLRIG Universal Microhone... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XWQG27X?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I agree with the Godox route. Buy the Flashpoint branded ones from Adorama as they come with a warranty. I had one stopped (partially my fault, continuous excessive use of HSS) working and Adorama replaced it, no questions asked. Make sure they have "R2" in the name as that denotes their compatibility with the XPro trigger (which is fantastic by the way).

I had eight of the Yongnuo 600's last August, only two of them are working now and there's no way to get a warranty on them.

The Flashpoint Li-on R2 TTL is the "flagship" speedlight. It has a huge lithium-ion battery that rated for 650 full power pops. They recycle super quickly and don't start misfiring when the battery starts running low. They're also easier to charge and keep track of compared to dozens of Eneloops. When I had the Yongnuos, I would have to replace the OCF's batteries once during the reception, and my main on camera flash about twice. Now I can go 2-3 full weddings on one battery, I never had to replace one during a shoot. These can be used on camera as a master, or as an optical/radio slave. They can also control larger monolights (like the very cool AD200/Evolv 200).

There's also a non TTL version of the same speedlight but still with the benefits of the lithium ion battery.

Start off your investment off right instead of buying sub par equipment just to replace them later.

I also recommend these speedlight mounts. The normal speedlight mounts with the umbrella holder are fine but they're not super secure and you're putting all your trust on the speedlight's feet - I've had plenty of lights break and fall off stands that way. These clamp on to a large surface area of the flash and will keep it safe, it's also very easy to tell if your speedlight is secured on. The front is a bowens mount so you can literally put any bowens mount modifier on it. And if you get a bigger light like an AD200 or an AD360, these fit beautifully on it.

I've never heard of the light stands you mentioned, but the Amazon reviews look good and plentiful so you should be fine.

Like others, I've had the best success about doorway-height. Maybe about 6-8ft looking downwards. I have a pair of flash stands from doing photography, but you could pick up a cheap set of those that are at least 6ft

I also have mini clamps that I attach to the top of the door or to the stairs balusters when I'm downstairs:

• Clamps like this
  
• Or like this
  
  If you are really tight on space and cant use the flash stands, look into a pair of these, they are heavy-duty tension rods that go up to 12'.

I am trying to setup a very beginner's studio in my basement. I have a 25 feet by 20 feet space (no windows) that I plan to use. Would this equipment work for me?

1. Julius Studio 10 foot wide backdrop stand
   
2. [Cowboy Studio 10x12 feet grey muslin cloth] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VCW6G0/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER) (Or for a small studio, should I go black or white instead?)
   
3. Neewer 37" beehive octagon softbox (will this work with my Yongnuo 560 speedlight?)
   
4. Neewer s-type holder with bowens mount (Does this fit the softbox?)
   
5. Impact air-cushioned light stand 8' (And this will fit the holder?)
   
   Would love to hear opinions on these, and also if I am buying stuff that will work with each other.
   
   Thank you!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005Z4ROIW/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468212442&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=l+bracket+photography&dpPl=1&dpID=31gm5o%2Bw3QL&ref=plSrch

Well the MKE 600 comes with a little clip that can slide into the top of most dslr and mirrorless cameras, and it also has a 1/4 inch thread. So if your mic stand has a 1/4 inch bolt on the end you don’t need to buy anything else. If you do want to buy something or need a different size thread (I️ actually think 3/4 inch is pretty standard on mic stands) then maybe look into something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XWQG27X/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511589050&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=shock+mount+for+shotgun&psc=1

I️ found this by searching for shotgun mic shock mounts.

They make nicer shock mounts but this will get you going and making some videos.

So I recently purchased a new flash trigger/remote to use with my flashes both with my digital camera and also my Mamiya RB67. I know that the mamiya doesn't have a hotshoe, but it has a pc sync port on it. Soon after receiving it, I see that the transmitter does NOT have a 3.5mm plug on it, which is a pretty big bummer. So after a little research it seems like my best bet is to go from the PC sync port in the lens, into a hot shoe adapter like this, then the hot shoe adapter with the transmitter attached. I just want to confirm that this will work before I order a hot shoe adapter and learn that it won't work for whatever reason. Thoughts?

Is it this one? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJFBUCQ/

Thanks, yes it's only there to hold it in place. I purchased this from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003URJP5Q/ref=redir_mdp_mobile

Do you think that should work?

Food shoots I'm doing right now for an online delivery service require this setup:

-31" double diffused softbox

-Reflector (I use one with a handle so I can attach it to a weighted tripod and set it on a chair. Not the ideal setup currently, but it works.

-godox speedlight->bowens clamp mount

-white balance mini-reflector

-speedlight

-a7iii + Nikon 55mm 2.8 micro

-2x cloth napkins

-Moleskine notebook

-Extra speedlight

i could attach tripod to my bag and fit everything, though I prefer to just carry it. I use a tripod as a light stand because it folds up smaller.

all fits in my 30L

I bought this cord and 2 of these adapters. Put one adapter on the hotshoe of your camera, the other on the hotshoe of the flash, and the cord between them. It seems to work so far. I use a D7000.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B071CFDBJ7/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just bought this for $9 and it seems to work well. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01L8LNYL6/

What you could do is velcro the mic to a cheese plate and then screw this [hot/cold shoe adapter] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005005EEM/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B005005EEM&linkCode=as2&tag=ytvdsc-20&linkId=EJBXFHJO2J7YMKLX) into the cheese plate and then mount that to the mount on the camera.

Here is the design for the 3d printed holder:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1926833
(remixed from http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1516893)

Then i purchased a hot shoe adapter for my DSLR from amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OT75QTA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hot Shoe Hotshoe Cover With Bubble Spirit Level for Sony Alpha Series this may not help when your shooting using the viewfinder since you can't see it. But it's helped me level my pictures with mini tripod.

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

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^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

I bought something similar to those light stands, but didn't like them....they "cut" into your roomscale zone, and they can not be as sturdy as you really want them to be (the lighthouses shouldn't move even the slightest bit).

I kept them for when i take my vive somewhere else and use as a portable solution. After some research, I use these now and love them...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F3B4YPS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and for actually holding the lighthouse onto the pole...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CSMCPKQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

those are totally metal, and worth the slight extra price compared to plastic ones (but you could probably save a little money with the plastic ones).

those poles are great and easy to move too!

hope it helps, and you made the right choice w/ vive, it's the superior HMD by far.