(Part 2) Best camera lens accessories according to redditors
We found 1,909 Reddit comments discussing the best camera lens accessories. We ranked the 704 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
Its surprising how what is basically just a cheap, tiny magnifying glass can help produce such remarkable pictures on a phone. I captured this image of a caterpillar that had water droplets on it with my iPhone 5 and a cheap macro lens.
EDIT: Here is the lens for those curious. It also comes with wide angle and fisheye.
I think it's a Minolta SR mount.
You will need this adapter.
Amazon | B&H
Here's a photo that you can take with your iPhone and a macro lens
The solution is to find a way to afford the Metabones Speedbooster. In my opinion, it's a necessary accessory if you are using Canon glass.
Here are 2 shots from the first night with the scope set-up below.
http://imgur.com/a/GVg3O
Here is the Scope used: 499.00 (Purchased a returned scope that had damage in shipping for 300.00...)
https://www.astronomics.com/astro-tech-8-inch-imaging-newtonian-optical-tube_p17402.aspx
Here is the mount used: 1,119.99
http://www.telescope.com/Mounts-Tripods/GoTo-Mounts-Tripods/Orion-Sirius-EQ-G-Computerized-GoTo-Telescope-Mount/pc/-1/c/2/sc/36/p/24336.uts
1618.99 total
You obviously will need a dslr camera with an adapter for the lens, but you can buy an adapter for cheap off of Amazon. For example.
http://www.amazon.com/Opteka-T-Mount-Adapter-Digital-Cameras/dp/B000KNCB7C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1368734650&sr=8-1&keywords=canon+t+adapter
And
http://www.amazon.com/Celestron-93625-Universal-1-25-inch-T-Adapter/dp/B0000665V6/ref=pd_bxgy_p_img_y
It can be tricky learning how to align the scope, but plenty of resources online for learning. Also, you'll need to know how to set up your camera properly with the right ISO and accessories to allow for bulb exposure and mirror locking first... But... Holy shitballs it's worth it!!
Heres a tip, just buy a large ND filter, biggest you can afford and get a set of step up rings HERE. Then you can ensure that the ND filter should fit most lenses you buy in the future.
Pssst, look into this Viltrox speedbooster. Just as good, but way cheaper. Ebay has it even cheaper if you're willing to wait.
Es el lente sony 90mm macro f2.8, en una camara sony a6500.
https://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Sony-FE-90mm-f-2.8-Macro-G-OSS-Lens.aspx
Para darle aun mas zoom use unos tubos de extension macro: https://www.amazon.es/Neewer-Auto-Focus-Extension-Mount-Camera/dp/B010D2S5D8
Despues flash y tripode y listo
/u/Dreamasleep - I wouldn't spend $3299 on a Canon 5D Mark IV for video. For about $650 less, you can get a [$1997.99 Panasonic GH5] (https://www.amazon.com/PANASONIC-Mirrorless-Camera-Megapixels-DC-GH5KBODY/dp/B01MZ3LQQ5//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) with a [$649 Speedbooster XL] (https://www.amazon.com/Metabones-Booster-Full-Frame-EF-Mount-Thirds-Mount/dp/B011GEMHU4//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) for your Canon glass and get pretty much the same crop factor (1.28x for the GH5 with the SB XL versus 1.27x for the the 5D Mark IV) - plus higher 4K and 1080p slow motion frame rates - as seen here:
Hope this is helpful and good luck with your upgrade!
Hi all! Recent purchase, the famed 58. I bought this hoping to settle down to a one-watch guy, but I'm just not sure I can. The detail work on this watch is wonderful, though: the way the rose gold around the indices brightens up the yellow gold around hands; the paper-like matte finish of the dial; and of course, the perfect proportions.
All that said, I'm moving on from this one and on to the next. I really liked how my macro shots are progressing, though, so I thought I would share here! If anyone is curious, I didn't use a dedicated macro lens for this shot, just a set of very inexpensive macro tube extensions mounted to my 85mm lens. This is slightly cropped from the larger version, which I find more striking but really wanted to showcase the dial here, so I cropped. I'm not sure what the rules are for cross-posting, so I will refrain from posting the imgur sales album directly, but it is in my history.
You can buy adapter rings to adapt a larger filter for a smaller lens. On wide angle lenses there may be vignetting, but in this case it should be fine. Here is a set on Amazon: http://smile.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Anodized-49-52mm-52-55mm-55-58mm/dp/B001G445Q4/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1420065195&sr=1-1&keywords=step+up+ring
You need to adapt a 58mm filter to a 52mm lens.
>Thank you for the lengthy and detailed response! I know about the ability to use my Minolta lenses, and I'm actually looking forward to it so much! I just love film photography, but it's becoming far too expensive for me to develop film on a regular basis. I think you may be right about the kit lens though, which unfortunately means that I may not be able to afford the camera, as I'd have to save up a bit more for another lens (I've been spoiled by my f/1.7 lens on my Minolta, and would hate to have to go any higher, but I've seen that lenses with similar apertures can go for quite a bit.
So long as you're not afraid of manually handling focus and aperture, an MD-Nex adapter from K&F is, like, 15£ on UK Amazon.
>Totally did not know about the autofocus though! It's such a shame that it's bad. One of the reasons I hate taking video on my DSLR is because the autofocus in live view is absolutely garbage, (though that may just be my lens).
I'm probably being too hard on the autofocus. It works well enough in bright situations with single point focus. It's primarily the kit lens that has issues, imo, where it would often miss or hunt forever.
>In your experience, is the a7 an all around good camera for stills and short videos? I've got a trip to Japan coming up soon, and I really don't want to bring my DSLR or my film camera since I plan on travelling relatively lightly.
For stills? It's fantastic. Image quality is out of this world, and focusing even with manual lenses is a breeze with the internal zooming, focus peaking, and all that jazz. For video it's less so, mainly because it doesn't have any stabilisation. Granted, some lenses (including the kit lens) has this built-in, but most do not. It's up to you, if you feel this bothers you. Autofocus in video I honestly can't comment on. Just note that the focusing on the kit lens is loud.
>Anyways, I just want a full frame camera that is really a jack of most trades. I know that the a7 isn't the master of anything in particular, I just saw the deal, and seeing as I've been thinking about the alpha series for quite some time, maybe it would be a good idea.
I think you will like it. Especially if you absolutely can't go back to aps-c. You'll learn its quirks with time, and if the kit lens is as horrible as I described it, you'll sell it and make a bit back. Maybe you'll buy a better Sony lens, or maybe you'll adapt some older glass.
Edit: Here's a link to the adapter, by the way. https://www.amazon.co.uk/MD-NEX-Adapter-Concept%C2%AE-Minolta-E-Mount/dp/B00LECYONM
Congrats! I got my A6000 a year ago, such an amazing little beast! I got the Sony 50mm 1.8 for it and recently added a Sigma 16mm 1.4. Both are absolutely amazing lenses, but Sigma is on a whole different level in terms of sharpness.
If you're going for the 50mm range, wait a little bit and see how the Sony 50mm stacks up to the new Sigma 56mm 1.4 that was just now released. If it's anything like the 16mm, then it might be worth the extra price.
A small tip, when you zoom in with that kit lens it shows the focal length on top of the screen, so you can use it to get a sense of how wide a particular prime will look before you buy it.
-
Oh and look into macro extension tubes if shooting macro is your thing, they're cheap and allow you to do some amazing macro magic.
These are the ones I've got, the 50mm 1.8 is fully functional with it and allowed me to shoot some beautiful stuff. Haven't tested on the other lenses.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010D2S5D8/
I'm planning on snagging a 55-210 next, I know the quality isn't oh so good, but a decent telephoto lens costs an arm and a leg so... And I hear it can be often found on ebay for fairly cheap, since it's a kit lens so the market is over-saturated with it. So if it's also something you want, it's worth checking ebay.
There's two main adapters worth your while you may or may not be aware of. First the Metabones Speed Booster from Canon to MFT which has full electronic control and reduces the focal length to make it equivalent of having the lens on a APS-C body (roughly). The same happens with aperture making efectively 1 stop brighter and even sharper.
This is an expensive adapter so there's the cheap solution with the Mitakon Zhongyi Lens Turbo II that, unlike the Metabones, does not have electronics but does quite a nice job for around 1/3 of the price. The Nikon version does have an aperture control ring, not sure about the others. You can use a cheap adapter ring to get the Pentax to fit any of these I believe.
As for a tripod I'd look into the AmazonBasics workhorse (I know, I know) that you may be skeptical about, and yes, it's not perfect but for the price it's an amazing piece of gear.
SD Card-wise I have a couple of these and they've been working wonders.
I've seen general praise over SmallRig cage so you may want to look into that. You can get just the basic cage or you can add a handle a ton of other stuff.
I don't think you'd need an external recorder right now and even if you got it, the signal that the G7 outputs it's kind of weak. 8 Bit 4:2:0 as far as I remember (maybe 4:2:2 but the real difference would be 10 Bit). The general rule of thumb is always shoot 4K and use it on 1080 timelines. That makes for a super detailed 1080 image that has room for reframing.
You can get some bang for the buck LED Lights in the Yongnuo Yn 300 III with even cheaper prices if you get a slightly older model. They are not spectacular but I think you can't go wrong for the price and they output quite an amount of light. Here is a review just so you can see them in action. This guy uses a G7 with a Lumix 25mm 1.7 I believe so that may give a more real life scenario.
That's all I can think right now, I hope you find some if this stuff useful and congrats on your purchase, it's an awesome little camera, I think it will work wonders for your kind of projects.
Jump to the Panasonic GH5, then use a metabones speed booster to adapt your Canon EF mount lenses to the micro four thirds Panasonic lens mount.
In this case, the lens has nothing to do with your exposure. You want to be stopped down to f/11 to f/16, which pretty much any lens can do.
You do, however, need a long lens to shoot the moon in any reasonable fashion. My longest lens is 250mm, and even then the moon is tiny. 400mm or longer would be best.
An option, if you're willing to limit the use of this 'lens' to astrophotography, is an inexpensive telescope and an eyepiece adapter. The image quality may not be great compared to a, say, 800mm L lens, but it'll be better than even the long end of your kit lens, and at a fraction of the cost of even the cheapest 'real' lens of the same focal length.
Fair warning: If you take pictures of terrestrial subjects with a telescope, it'll look like ass. Limit it to photos of the stars or the moon.
Another hint: Everyone takes shots of the full moon, but they're the worst, lighting-wise. Try taking photos of a first-quarter or third-quarter moon (when half the moon is illuminated); the shadows give it definition.
EDIT: Apparently a half-lit moon isn't a "half moon". Who knew?
As someone who's used said adapters which need that glass element to correct for infinity focus: quit while you're ahead and stop keep throwing money at it. Keep the one without the glass element and use it as a macro lens and call it a day.
The glass element robs so much image quality from the lens it's insane (I've tried both A-to-EF and MD-to-EF, and the results are identical). If you completely insist on trying another adapter, I used the Fotodiox one. It's a $40 mistake sitting in a box at my apartment right now, and I consider it the worst photography-related purchase I've made in my life.
Good luck!
On Nikon the aperature is often controlled by a little lever (the very latest lenses might not be). You can tape the lever open or use some oddball adapters to control it.
Edit: To answer your question Canon lenses have electronic apertures that stick in the last thing used -if- you take the lens off live doing a DOF preview.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00870NQRO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Vintage MF lenses are pretty cheap to adapt.
If anyone is interested in the camera set up be ready to be disapointed:
iPhone 5S with 120fps mode with This fisheye lens
Honestly for 8 dollars the thing does pretty well
As a canon shooter I was intrigued by this:
> Not got many Micro Four Thirds lenses? Well, if it fits (I have not tried mine with it yet), you can pair the E-M10 III with the EF mount Metabones Speed Booster XL. You’ll get an almost full frame image from your Canon EF lenses, at 1.28x crop in 4K on the E-M10 III with that adapter. Not bad for a $500 camera?
But then I looked up the adapter and it costs more than the camera! ($649 on amazon today).
Yikes!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011GEMHU4
Thanks for the advice - I'm in a similar situation as OP.
I just heard about the Viltrox speedbooster as a comparable yet inexpensive alternative to the metabones. Do you have any thoughts on it? I know a big part of the M43 form factor is, well, the size, but do you think it would be suitable for those who may want to expand their inventory of lenses to other mounts?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079M4W8MQ/?coliid=I1FOIF5LACOBF0&colid=3T2Z870V2UKDE&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
The A-1 uses FD mount lenses. Modern Canon EOS cameras use the EF mount. So you will have to use an adapter.
And since the 42mm flange distance on the FD mount is shorter than the 44mm flange distance on the EF mount, the adapter needs corrective optics.
Here's one:
http://www.amazon.com/Canon-Mount-Adapter-Infinity-Focus/dp/B001D8X72G
adding to this, m42 adapters will sometimes have an internal flange and sometimes not. This is important as some m42 lenses have pins than need to be depressed for the aperture to work, and some m42 lenses have bayonets that will not work with flanged m42 adapters.
thankfully m42 adapters are cheap.
Edit:
If this is your lens then there's a pin that operates the aperture that you need to depress with the adapter.
Looking on Amazon, you can see this adapter has a flange just behind the threads, and it will depress that pin making the aperture adjustable.
This one WON'T work since it doesn't have the flange.
Hi /u/cwtchweddings - I wouldn't spend a whole lot of money on buying a [used GH3] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B009B0WREM/sr=8-2/qid=1396009249/?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&colid=&coliid=&condition=used&creative=390957&linkCode=ur2&me=&qid=1396009249&seller=&sr=8-2&tag=battleforthew-20) right now - especially when the [GH4 is scheduled to start shipping] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I9GYG8O/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00I9GYG8O&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) at the end of next month. Instead, I would buy an [inexpensive adapter] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TROEBM/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B003TROEBM&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) (which you are going to need anyway) and [rent a GH3 body from Borrowlenses] (http://www.borrowlenses.com/product/Panasonic_Lumix_DMCGH3_Mirrorless_Digital_Camera/?blpid=1234) (or lensrentals) for a week or so.
That will cost you a lot less money, and will allow you to "try before you buy".
To answer your other questions:
Touch screen focus is great, but only works with Panasonic/Olympus/Sigma micro 4/3 system lenses.
On your basic question - I started out buying a lot of manual lenses, and had some left over from my Nikon N70 and D50 - but I am gradually shifting to Panasonic/Olympus glass because video autofocus makes life so much easier.
Again, hope this us helpful,
Bill
You may need one of these to control the aperture lever.
Gonna kinda buck the system. I bought a D3200 with the 18-55 and 55-200 kit lenses. For macro shots, I bought this reversing ring that I put onto the 18-55, and it's pretty fun to play with. I also grabbed this aperture ring sui that I wouldn't have to hold the little finger by hand.
Obviously this isn't really a professional setup, but it does everything I need, and takes plenty good quality pictures for me.
> Olympus 9mm body cap lens
I like how the Amazon page for that item describes it as a body cap first, a lens second.
Olympus M.Zuiko 9mm F8.0 Fisheye Body Cap Lens BCL-0980 for Micro Four Thirds Cameras https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I19TVU2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_p5YPDbX42APZ8
It’s not fast at all, but decent with enough sunlight or a tripod, IQ not that great, BUT, it’s only 87 bucks and you can probably find it cheaper on eBay.
If you want wide AND cheap, look no further:
https://www.amazon.com/Olympus-Fisheye-BCL-0980-Micro-Cameras/dp/B00I19TVU2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479103361&sr=8-1&keywords=olympus+body+cap+lens
The amazing Olympus 9mm F8 bodycap lens! ~85$ gets you a nice fish-eye that doubles as a bodycap. Two for one!
The optical quality isn't great but it DOES work and that's the important thing. They're fun lenses to shoot on. I've got both the 15mm and the 9mm and it's incredible how tiny they are.
This adapter is working fine for Minolta SR-mount lenses.
Check out Adapted Alpha on YouTube & these on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00LECYONM/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A165PRD624KZFU
I own a Canon DSLR. Do you know if it is possible to buy an attachment so I can use the camera I already have or would I need to buy a special camera to use with a microscope?
Thanks for all of the help so far. If I could upvote you more than once, I would.
Edit: it looks like I would be able to get a T-mount for my camera and then a T-adapter maybe? Is that correct?
Manual lenses are well worth exploring. I pick up really excellent glass all the time for about $10 or $20. Since you shoot canon, the old nikon lenses are actually a better fit. The adapter for nikon-to-EOS does not need an intermediate glass. The canonFD-to-EOS needs the glass and that reduces the image quality.
That 2x adapter for the rokinon is also an intermediate lens and will reduce overall image quality. Recommend tripod. Heavy as a rock tripod. 800mm is a lot of reach. You might want to figure out how to do mirror lockup on your rig and get a remote shutter control.
Here you go! Copypasted straight from the description:
> BONGO TIES - http://amzn.to/2AbscKt
> Cheapest DIFFUSER - http://amzn.to/2Brkcml
> MUST HAVE CLAMPS - http://amzn.to/2iVhcHe
> ND FILTER STEP RINGS - http://amzn.to/2hVX7Q4
>* GAFF TAPE - http://amzn.to/2BrkidT
^(aaand Matt's views massively drop)
I use a Fotodiox M42 to Canon adapter and it works perfectly. Here's the same brand but for your MFT mount.
The lens is awesome, by the way.
I use these without any issues https://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Adapter-Olympus-Panasonic-Cameras/dp/B002RJKVY2/ref=sr_1_17?keywords=fotodiox+m42&qid=1571926936&sr=8-17
Non-mobile: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003EB0AY8?vs=1
^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003EB0AY8?vs=1
A cheap adapter like this will physically connect the lens with the body, but does not connect the electronics and so does not allow for anything automatic. You would have manual focus as well as manual aperture control. On most lenses this would mean shooting either wide open or at a very small f22. Not fun for casual everyday shooting, and not great for learning photography, but you could definitely still take some photos this way.
It looks like you would need something more like the Official Sony Adapter for almost $200USD in order to get the electrical connections from the body to the lens. Then you would have auto focus, as long as the lens contains the focusing motor, and you'd be able to properly control the aperture of the lenses.
There might be an adapter somewhere in between the two in price, but this is what I was able to quickly find. Hope it helps!
edit
If your lens does not have a focusing motor inside, and instead uses an old "screw type" focusing system, then you'd need the even more expensive adapter in order to get auto focus. If the lenses are newish then they probably have the motor inside. I believe Sony uses the label 'SSM' to denote that the lens contains a motor.
You bought the wrong one. The one you linked is for MD-mount (technically SR-mount) which is for film-era Minolta SLRs.
If you don't need aperture control and just need an adapter that can connect the lens to the camera, something like this will do. Otherwise you should look into Sony's LA-EA3 or LA-EA4 depending if you want good AF performance. LA-EA4 has its own SLT and AF unit for focusing the lens which will be faster than using A6000's AF system. You can probably search for used LA-EA1/2 if you don't want pay for a FF one.
I bought a 50mm 1.8 that came with a kit of 3 filters and some additional products on Amazon. It's an incredible lens for both photography & video that I highly recommend. It is a wide angle so unlike the kit lenses with zoom it's range will require you to move around a lot more so keep that in mind. I am still figuring out when to use the filters it came with, so far I haven't really used them.
The other lens I just purchased is a novelty lens called the Helios 44m-4. These lenses come imported from Russia and is strictly a manual lens. If you really want to learn manual like I do, I'd recommend getting this one, the price of the lens ranges from $40-$60 which is a bargain for how gorgeous these shots come out! Haven't utilized the video too much yet but so far I am loving it. You also need to buy an adapter ring for Canon if you plan on purchasing since it is a none Canon lens.
Those are the ones I have so far!
> don't know about nikon though
for the G/DX lenses (without manual aperture control), fotodiox makes one to manually control the aperture while in reverse mode
http://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Nikon-Aputure-Contral-52MM-Aperture-Control-Photography/dp/B005ODKGLG/ref=pd_sim_p_2
The cheap one.
(Not a flippant answer).
this one is what I bought. I use it on all my MD mount glass and it works fine. I’ve used them on both my old a6000 and my new a7III
EDIT: ignore me I missed the AF in your post the first time I read it. This won’t work for AF lenses but if you have older manual Minolta glass it works great.
Good luck with the AF adapter hunt.
8 thingie
If you're just using your phone camera, you'll need to experiment with different light sources and positions until you find something that allows it to focus properly. You could also grab a cheap macro lens off like this off of amazon
The Panny 12-35 f2.8 is by far my most used lens, and it compliments your friend's 35-100 f2.8 nicely.
I also have the Panasonic 25mm f1.4 which is a great lens - there's no OIS, which is a downside for a lot of people but if you have a steady hand or a tripod you're ok. I use this a lot on weddings. You could by the 25mm f1.7 for sightly less.
The next lense I'll be buying is the Voightlander 10.5mm f0.95 - it's pricey but a fast wide lens is something I've been looking for for awhile on the m43 system. Voightlander has a variety of f0.95 prime lenses compatable with your sytem - I think a 25, 35, 50 and 80mm IIRC. Had I not alreaday had those focal lengths covered I may have picked one of those up too.
for only $80ish bucks this 9mm BLC (body lens cap) fisheye lens is awesome. Lot of people overlooking it. It's locked at f7 but that's not an issue since I am ususally shooting with it during the day or timelapsing with it in low light with a slowshutter (great for wedding or even timelapses - like this one of mine). I keep it on my camera instead of normal lens caps.
Similar I'd recommend looking into some older lenses and using an adapter. To cover my longer focal lengths I use an older Zeis 50mm f1.4 prime from my analog photography days - it's effectly 110mm with the crop factor.
For extremely cheap ($10-$50 bucks on ebay) you can buy c mount tv lenses. Almost all are f1.4 and have a real milky dream like look to them. They can be cool - check this video out for an example HERE. 16mm lenses can be converted aswell but they'll be way more money.
All my suggestions by the first two are fully manual lenses. That's not everyone's thing sometimes FYI, but I feel like those people are more from the photography side of things. I basically shoot the same stuff you do from the sounds of it - concerts, music vids, commercial stuff, weddings. etc.
I have the Samyang/Rokinon 7.5mm f/3.5 Fisheye and the Olympus 9mm f/8.0 Lens Cap Fisheye.
The Rokinon is overall good but has some minor QA issues. There's some play on the focus ring around the infinity mark. It's generally not a big deal but means you have to be careful to keep the ring lined up and can't rely on simply turning it till you hit the stop.
The Olympus Lens Cap is awesome for the price but the picture quality is fine. You won't be using it for any serious work but it's perfect for fun.
You can try a filter wrench (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kAPdfGZK6GY).
I would use a small file or saw blade to cut two grooves in the filter ring adapter, and then use a spanner wrench (something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Professional-Stainless-Spanner-Opening/dp/B00J5F6ZI2/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1483806955&sr=8-10&keywords=spanner+wrench) to twist it off. Be very careful not to damage anything else. Goes without saying that the filter adapter won't be usable again once it's off with this method - not that it matters most likely.
Works incredibly well https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J5F6ZI2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_T-5kDbXDRP3HQ
I also recommend c clip pliers where the above tool cant get to
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JNRR0Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_Mb6kDb90NZNST
Both of these two tools combined has suited me 100% of the time for my builds. If I didn't have either or, I would have seen myself stopping half way in builds.
You can see them on the far right of my photo
I can give you a partial answer.
The tool for a screw with two holes is called a spanner. You can get them pretty cheaply on Amazon or at other places. (E.g. this item.) Or you can improvise by using, say, two nails and a pair of pliers.
Seals, including the mirror bumper, are easy. If you e-mail Jon Goodman ([email protected]), he'll sell you a properly cut set for your camera and will provide a very good set of instructions. For about $10.
I use the Minolta 50mm MD Rokkor 1.4 with a K+F MD-NEX adapter as the lens is fully manual. The reason I chose the Minolta over the Sony lens is mainly due to /u/phillipreeve and the resources he's produced on using older, fully manual lenses with Sony bodies. You really do get bang for your buck and they allow for some great results in a small package.
Yessir! Using this one here. Only ~$19.
Take a look at B&H or Amazon if you want to buy new. There's also a pretty large secondary market for Gh4's on Craigslist, which I am always a fan of.
Speedbooster wise, for Canon lenses, at the moment you pretty much have two options for canon lenses: This guy or this guy
Welcome to the club! It's gonna be great.
As long as you're trying an extension tube, and not one of those macro lens attachments that screw onto the end of your lens like a filter. The magnification one is useless on those. If you have 20-40 bucks for probably okay results then definitely give it a shot. I'd love to hear how it goes.
This is what I bought. They occasionally lose their connect with the body, but usually jiggering it a little bit, or just turning the body off and back on again, will fix the issue: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IR5CSV8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Yeah, I think so. This one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Q8AD7G/
With these tubes:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRXL7Q1/
Like other users have said, some tubes allow you to autofocus.
https://www.amazon.com/MK-S-AF3A-Extension-Adapter-Mirrorless-FE-Mount/dp/B01MRXL7Q1/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=emount+macro+lens&qid=1556041655&s=electronics&sr=1-9
They do mount between the lens and the camera, allowing you to decrease the distance from the subject, with the same minimum focusing distance.
This one is a basic adapter. Or this for a speedboosting adapter with aperture control.
The Nikon to micro 43s one!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B072XF4L4J/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8
And here’s some of my work with it!
https://youtu.be/7DOA3grdAVU
I believe this lens can be adapted to EF mount (what the T2i uses) with one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Opteka-T-Mount-Adapter-Digital-Cameras/dp/B000KNCB7C
I'm not 100% sure though, from what I can tell from a quick Google search, this lens was made in a couple different mounts. Pictures might help.
Perhaps this t ring
Like ohv said, you need T-mount to EF adapter, such as this one.
So this converter, although cheap, would degrade my image quality a fair amount?
I also think I forgot to mention a key fact-I'm only in high school, and have little money.
In addition to using any of the EF mount lenses, a simple adapter would let you use any of the FD mount lenses from Canon's older film SLRs. 200mm or 300mm zoom lenses of the FD mount can easily be found for $20-$50 all over the place. Keep in mind these'll be manual focus. Happy shooting.
Just get some step-up rings. They make a bunch of different sizes, and are fairly cheap. I have a couple 52-to-55mm, and a 55-to-62mm to fit older filters. It was actually cheaper to buy a 52-to-55 & 55-to-62 and put them together, then get a 52-to-62mm. Most of the time, they are less than $5 each.
Here is an example (with a bunch of different sizes)
http://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Anodized-49-52mm-52-55mm-55-58mm/dp/B001G445Q4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1302295680&sr=8-3
You can either get a set of rings. Or you can just get a 58 to 77mm ring. What I've done with my lenses, is permanently put a ring to 77mm, and just gotten a 77mm lens cap for each one. That way I'm not always dicking around with rings.
The 18-55mm is the focal length (the "zoom") of the lens, minimum 18mm, max 55mm.
The filter size is the physical diameter of the lens.
Most (Nikon?) lenses have this on the inside of the lens cap.
I have two lenses, the 18-55mm you have, and a Tamron 70-300mm. The Tamron has a 62mm filter size.
Because I too wanted ND filters, I went ahead and got this 67mm ND Filter set for $38 on Amazon.
I then bought these step-up rings for $14 — these are essentially multiple rings that go from one size to the next, you stack to get the size you want.
This allows me to use the 67mm filters on both my lenses, and future lenses (up to 67mm, which is likely to be the largest size on any lens I'll ever be able to afford ;)
Hope this helps clarify some of the stuff others have said.
http://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Adapter-Olympus-Panasonic-Cameras/dp/B002RJKVY2
I'm looking to use an old 50mm lens as a portrait lens. I was thinking this lens paired with this adapter. Will I run into any issues? Do you have any better suggestions that are under $200 USD, preferably around $100 or lower?
Thanks, Brunerww. I have decided to get the G6 for now as it will allow me more money in lenses and accessories at this time. The GH4 will probably be my Christmas present to myself!
I decided to get:
This kit with 2 lenses,
This adapter for my old Pentax lenses
This coupler power adapter
This 35MM Fotasy CCTV lens I've read so much about.
I used your affiliate link to purchase as a thank-you for all the helpful information you've given me the past weeks.
You just need a Minolta to Canon EF adapter like this one. The Minolta SR bayonet mount is the same pattern as the MC and MD mounts; the MC and MD were later versions that incorporated electronics for metering and autofocus, IIRC.
I have the minolta 50mm f/1.7 on my 7D.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003EB0AY8
That's the adapter that I have! Enjoy.
Thanks. I don't need automatic aperature control, but I just need to be able to control aperature through the camera as it's not manual on the lens
edit: http://www.amazon.com/Fotasy-AMNG-G-type-Thirds-Adapter/dp/B003TROEBM Something like this except for Sigma mount
This is the adapter that I ordered before reading your comment.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TROEBM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Will I be able to change the aperture even though it's controlled electronically?
Hi /u/sanityrepresent - I own the BMPCC , and with the right setup, it can be a good, inexpensive first camera. But first you have to fix the few things that make it a challenge to shoot with out of the box, e.g. the tight crop, the "iPhone-like" ergonomics, the dim LCD and the short battery life.
Crop
You absolutely need a wide angle lens to shoot indoors with this camera. I have an old Olympus 11-22mm f2.8-3.5 with a Panasonic DMC-MA1 adapter that gives me a full frame equivalent 32-63mm. But it was expensive. If I was starting again from scratch, and couldn't afford a Speed Booster, I would get a [used Nikon mount Tokina 11-16mm f2.8 for about $400] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2FLenses-%2F3323%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_nkw%3Dtokina%2B11-16mm%2Bnikon%26rt%3Dnc%26LH_BIN%3D1) and an [inexpensive Nikon G to micro 4/3 adapter] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TROEBM/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B003TROEBM&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) (this is the adapter I use for my Nikon lenses).
Ergonomics
Yes, you can buy or build a shoulder mount - but that can be expensive and/or time consuming. I built my own for less than $200 and I love it ([here] (https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QW78g2jQbeU/U2mZ-aV32NI/AAAAAAAAIzg/E4d9v8aCmME/w963-h543-no/P1080600.JPG)'s a photo - I'll post the parts list if you like), but it turns out I don't use it much.
Instead, I use a [$24 pistol grip with a trigger] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=221603818145&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg) - just like my old Super 8 cameras from 40 years ago. With the right stance, it works great to keep the camera steady and is a lot less hassle than my rig.
You will also need a [$10 cold shoe] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJFBUCQ/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00HJFBUCQ&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) if you want to mount a mic, light or recorder on top of the camera.
LCD
It is very difficult to see the LCD outdoors (or even indoors, in a brightly lit room). The best solution for this problem is an LCD Viewfinder. I bought a Kinotehnik LCDVF BM ([$118 at B&H] (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1013082-REG/kinotehnik_lcdvfbm_blackmagic_pocket_2ea_mounting_plates_soft.html), [$159 at Adorama] (http://www.adorama.com/LCDVFBM.html?KBID=66297)).
With the pistol grip and the LCD Viewfinder, this camera becomes a joy rather than a pain to handle. Here is a pic of my setup: https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-f3hbYYV_y8o/VHDp77GMxoI/AAAAAAAAJF8/xnHRvNcCm5o/w724-h543-no/P1020575.JPG
Battery
I started out by buying a bunch of spare batteries, but that was unmanageable, so I am getting a [$70 belt clip adapter for my Sony camcorder batteries] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LPJ1FJ0/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00LPJ1FJ0&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20). If you don't have any of these batteries laying around, you can [buy them for $10] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007Q9PWQ/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0007Q9PWQ&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20). They have twice the capacity of Blackmagic batteries and cost less. I would get at least two of them plus a [$17.50 dual battery charger] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=321347920244&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg) (I have one of these for my Sony batteries and they work great).
With this setup, you will have an easy to shoot with, affordable, RAW/10-bit ProRes Super 16 camera with 13+ stops of dynamic range for about $1675 all in.
Good luck!
HCR
If I use an adapter like this (not a speedbooster) to adapt my nikon lenses to my new camera, is it true I will lose ~a stop of range, I remember hearing that somewhere and am wondering if it's true?
This article will help you. edit a cheap version without focus link
Your Sony a6300 has an E-mount (specs) and the lens has an A-mount. You need an adapter, like this one or this one. The first mount from Sony has electronics built-in. The second, much cheaper one, does not. Things like auto-iris and auto-focus won't work without the electronics.
would this adapter work for it?
Well damn, that's a little disappointing. I guess I shouldn't have expected much for $25. I'll have to pick up that sigma sooner than expected.
Thank you for the reply!
It will work with your metabones with this Fotodiox Pro Chrome (Type 2) Lens Mount Adapter, M42 Lens https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y2Z6X2/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_ZhfUDbSPQV17V
I ended up grabbing this adapter but can't test until my lens arrives.
www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Aperture-Control-Reverse-Photography/dp/B005ODKGLG
$20 gets you a reversal ring and apature control
Fotodiox makes a reversed lens aperture control adapter that also allows you to attach a UV filter if you want to protect the rear element (one of the only times I would ever use a UV filter).
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005ODKGLG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1457886065&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=fotodiox+lens+reversing&dpPl=1&dpID=41EGxCM1whL&ref=plSrch
Question about the Neewer lens adapters on Amazon. I have a full suite of Minolta manual focus lenses and a new a6000, so I'm looking for a cheap adapter. Amazon has 2 products listed under the Neewer brand for an MD/MC to Sony E-Mount. Anyone familiar with these? Are the differences purely aethstetics or is one superior to the other?
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Adapter-Minolta-E-Mount-NEX-VG10/dp/B01IDDXGL0/
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Adapter-Minolta-E-Mount-NEX-VG10/dp/B00870NQRO/
$15 https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Adapter-Minolta-Mount-NEX-VG10/dp/B00870NQRO/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1521057339&sr=1-3&keywords=md+to+e+mount
this K&F adapter will probably be of higher quality. https://www.amazon.com/Concept-Adapter-Minolta-Mount-NEX-VG10/dp/B00LECYONM/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1521057339&sr=1-5&keywords=md+to+e+mount
You can adapt them using one of these
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Adapter-Minolta-Mount-NEX-VG10/dp/B00870NQRO
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00870NQRO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 is the one that did not work. It fit the camera, but not the lens.
I don't need the auto focus or aperture control (well, I am not willing to pay for it haha), so how could I find the simple ones?
I have searched Sony E to A mount and I just get lost in all the adapters that are out there :/
https://www.amazon.com/NEEWER-Angle-Macro-Apple-iPhone/dp/B009UQR32I
Olympus 9mm f8.0 Fisheye Body Cap Lens BCL-0980
Well, you can send it somewhere, decide it's just a shelf decoration... but if it's non-functional and you don't want to pay for repairs or can't find someone to work on it, it's kinda "what do you have to lose"... probably all you need is a good quality japanese screwdriver (JIS, size 0 and 00) and possibly a cheap spanner wrench. On mine, once the front is off, I think it's all just small screws, and there's a lens group that just unscrews like a bottle cap. Take photos with your phone of each layer, etc. (Some people have a "this is fun stuff!!" mindset, some it's terrifying... I'm more in the latter camp). I rarely shoot 35 anymore, but mine is such a little monster, that Rokkor lens is impressive. Shot this at dusk in a blizzard, on auto, thought I was just wasting film, but the detail was surprising.
What camera is this? I believe this is the tool you’re looking for. https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Professional-Stainless-Spanner-Opening/dp/B00J5F6ZI2/ref=asc_df_B00J5F6ZI2/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309763890402&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12438393495488460539&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9014317&hvtargid=pla-347938689790&psc=1
There’s actually a tool for this, it’s called a Spanner Wrench:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J5F6ZI2
That said, the big flathead solution mentioned above is what I’ve always used.
This one?
I'm guessing you mean a lens made for a 35mm film camera? You would just call that a vintage lens or a legacy lens. Calling it a 35mm lens is confusing because there are also lenses at the 35mm focal length like this
I think vintage lenses would work well for what you want to use them for. Here is a good list of good ones to choose from.
You can get a set of extension tubes like this as a cheap way to take macro shots. They will work with any lens but auto focus might be affected.
It might be an unpopular opinion around here, but you might also be better off getting a compact dslr...you could get quite a bit more for your price limit of $800...
First, read this (http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/macro-extension-tubes-closeup.htm) then buy the Neewer metal extension tubes (Neewer Metal AF Auto-focus Macro Extension Tube Set 10mm&16mm for Sony NEX E-mount Camera NEX 3/3N/5/5N/5R/A6000/A6300 and Full Frame A7 A7S/A7SII A7R/A7RII A7II https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010D2S5D8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_lmiuyb6SPAAED) or the Marumi Achromatic DHG close up filter accordingly. I have both. I have even used both at the same time just for kicks. Note to self: buy focusing rail.
Well there's the native Sony one right in your price range.
Another option is to get a set of macro tubes for your kit lens. They'll be a lot fiddlier and AF might be problematic, but the price is hard to argue with and I've seen some great pictures out of nothing but a kit lens and some cheap tubes.
Left is with the extension tubes (both).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010D2S5D8/
Hap hap hello there! I am a bot and you linked to Amazon.
This comment contains 3 pricing graph(s)
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Product 1: Panasonic V-LOG L Firmware Upgrade Unlock/Activation Code for GH4 Camera for Professional Color Graders (B014U62K8E)
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|Cur||$91.39|Not in Stock|
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Product 2: Metabones Speed Booster XL 0.64x Adapter for Full-Frame Canon EF-Mount Lens to Select Micro Four Thirds-Mount Cameras (B011GEMHU4)
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Product 3: Sony a7S II ILCE7SM2/B 12.2 MP E-mount Camera with Full-Frame Sensor, Black w/ $300 Gift Card (B01NCJ65IY)
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The answer to (1) depends on what lens you are using with the extension tubes, but yeah they should be fine if you just want something cheap. Note that those tubes have no electrical contacts, so you will have to stop down the lens on your camera, hold down the DoF preview button (if your camera has one) then disconnect the lens from the camera so that the aperture stays closed down. Sounds kind of unreliable, and not having any easy aperture control is a paint. You also won't have autofocus, which can actually be really handy for shooting negatives.
For cheap tubes, I'd rather pay an extra $10-20 and get ones that support aperture control and autofocus like these or these or these.
As far as (2) yeah tracing paper or white wax paper or baking paper works well. The brighter your light is, the thicker of paper you can use, and the more diffuse the light is going to be. People also use white plexiglass / plastic sheets if you have those handy.
Something I never see mentioned often is cheap macro tubes like this. I swear these are the most unknown cheap piece of camera gear that is actually good. I got a set similar to these ones a couple of years ago and they've been great. They allow you to use your own lenses, and since they go behind the lens there isn't a ton of quality loss vs a cheap piece of glass that just screws onto the front. They even have a passthrough for the electronics so autofocus still works.
Here's some examples using those tubes shot through Canon L glass.
I use some Neewer or Meike or something from Amazon. These are metal. They'll work with whatever lens you want, but make sure the focal length is greater than the extension tube focal length.
The raynox should work, as the extension tubes fit between the lens and the body.
MEIKE MK-S-AF3A Metal Auto Focus Macro Extension Tube Adapter Ring (10mm+16mm )for Sony Mirrorless E-Mount FE-Mount A7 NEX Camera A7 A7M2 NEX3 NEX5 NEX6 NEX7 A5000 A5100 A6000 A6300 A6500 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRXL7Q1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2FZ9BbEEAM1Y6
They are small rings you put between the lens and the body. They move the focal distance of the lens closer to the camera so you can focus on stuff closer (and hence make it look bigger). The disadvantage over a "macro lens" as far as I understand it is you get a somewhat shallower focus range (so you may need to move the camera in and out to get the right zone), and when you have the rings installed you can't focus on things far away.
The ones I use with my A7iii are these.
I have a sony a6000 with 50mm prime lens. You could get the macro version but this makes for a killer all-around lens with beautiful bokeh. I used 26mm extension rings to get it to focus at close range
Lighting is very important too. The best shots are not taken directly under your grow light
> I recently acquired the Sigma 18-35 f/1.8 (Nikon mount) with speedbooster. It’s the lens I leave on my GH4. Useful lengths for everyday, casual, fun, whatever you may need. It’s massive, heavy but super pretty.
It is! Saw a lot of GH4 / GH5 vids with Sigma 18-35mm on youtube and it is something to look at. Just a question, were you bothered by the vignetting? And if im going with a Sigma 18-35mm, can I use a use a cheaper adaptor like this: https://www.amazon.com/VILTROX-NF-M43X-adapter-aperture-infinity/dp/B072XF4L4J/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 . Thinking of trying this out first and then borrowing some Nikon lenses from friends then I'm also going for the Sigma 18-35mm. Saw some people selling it lower than the 12-35 f/2.8 so I might consider it. Thanks!
https://www.amazon.com/VILTROX-NF-M43X-Adapter-Aperture-Infinity/dp/B072XF4L4J
I'm a bit in your same situation. I'm going to Iceland for 12 days and going to try and shoot a ton of landscapes with my Canon 60D and Tokina 11-16mm Ultra Wide angle (uses 77mm filters). Here's what I got on a budget from a little digging on Amazon.com:
Tiffen 77mm Circular Polarizer: $144; on sale for $20!
B+W 10 Stop Neutral Density filter: $252; on sale for $100
Tiffen 77mm Neutral Density 0.9 Filter: $99; on sale for $25
Step-up and Step-down rings let you use your pricey filters on your other lenses; saving you lots of $$$!
Fotodiox 7 Metal Step Up Ring Set, Anodized Black Metal 49-52mm, 52-55mm, 55-58mm, 58-62mm, 62-67mm, 67-72mm, 72-77mm: $13.49
Fotodiox 7 Metal Step-Down Ring Set, Anodized Black Metal. 77-72mm, 72-67mm, 67-62mm, 62-58mm, 58-55mm, 55-52mm, 52-49mm: $14.60
Pedco UltraPod II Lightweight Camera Tripod: $16.67 instead of a $100+ Gorillapod
You can go super cheap/artsy and use welding glass as a ND filter: $6 There's lots of easy tutorials on how to fix the color tint of the glass online.
Travel and photography are both amazing yet expensive hobbies. I hope my little list helps you out by saving you a little $ on the photo side; letting you have more $ on the travel side to do and see more... thus getting more amazing shots!
They all look like Minolta lenses. Buy one of these and you might be able to use them, but you might only be able to only use them with the M setting on your camera because they are too old for TTL technology.
https://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Adapter-Mount-mount-Mirrorless/dp/B003Y2YE5S is a cheap manual focus lens adapter.
http://www.amazon.com/Zykkor-Mount-Adapter-Canon-Infinity/dp/B001D8X72G
You could buy a FD to EOS EF converter and get some cheap FD glass. No auto focus, but you can get old glass for next to nothing. I recently bought a wide angle lens and a telephoto lens for about $10, both in good condition.