Best camera & photo lighting according to redditors
We found 4,186 Reddit comments discussing the best camera & photo lighting. We ranked the 1,389 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 4,186 Reddit comments discussing the best camera & photo lighting. We ranked the 1,389 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
![Fovitec - 1x 7'6" Photography & Video Light Stand Kit - [For Lights, Reflectors, & Modifiers][Collapsible][Spring Cushioned][Carrying Bag Included]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41QoRoVm-qL.jpg)
So a few months ago, I gave myself a budget of $5000 for everything I’d need to be a One Man Video Army. Besides an empty Lowell hard case and a pair of headphones, I had nothing in the picture above before commencing the buying spree. The grand total ended up coming to around $5500 or so but I’m pretty stoked to have stuck fairly close to my initial budget.
Here's a detailed list of everything in the picture above:
ITEM | WHAT I PAID | COST NEW | LINK TO BUY NEW
:-- | :-- | :-- | :--
Panasonic GH5 w/Rode Videomic Pro, 2 SD cards and batteries|$1,000.00|$1,500.00|B&H
Lumix 12-35mm 2.8|$550.00|$900.00|Amazon
Mitakon 25mm 0.95 Prime|$300.00|$350.00|B&H
Sigma 50-100mm 1.8|$750.00|$1,100.00|B&H
Tokina 11-16 2.8|$250.00|$400.00|B&H
Viltrox EF-M2 Speedbooster|$150.00|$200.00|B&H
Manfrotto 502 Video Tripod|$400.00|$400.00|B&H
Tripod Bag|$25.00|$25.00|Amazon
Panasonic XLR Adapter|$300.00|$400.00|Amazon
Sennheiser Wireless Mic System|$450.00|$600.00|Amazon
LowePro Camera Bag|$75.00|$75.00|B&H
Neewer 3-Light LED 660 Kit w/Fovitec stands|$350.00|$350.00|Amazon
Kessler Slider w/tripod head|$400.00|$900.00|B&H
Hoya 43mm Filter Kit|$35.00|$35.00|Amazon
Hoya 58mm Filter Kit|$40.00|$40.00|Amazon
Feelworld F570 Monitor|$200.00|$200.00|Amazon
Zoom H6 Recorder|$250.00|$400.00|B&H
Neewer 5-in-1 Reflector|$20.00|$20.00|Amazonn
Given my budget, there really wasn’t much debate over what camera would best suit my needs. I’m doing a lot of paid corporate and event video work, but I also shoot films and documentaries. So the GH5 made the most sense given its quality, versatility, and value. I can transport and operate all of this stuff without the need for additional crew, which is especially nice when a client doesn’t want to pay for that.
I’ve shot a few films and several paid gigs with this set already and it’s working out well so far. Happy to answer any questions over why I chose one thing over the other. We all have our preferences with equipment :)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005FHZ2SI/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_-EMnDb8Z0AE1X
I would purchase things that are relatively affordable (this tascam lav works great with auto levels and is totally worth the money) and rent things like lenses (and camera if you don't have something that's decent) that you'll definitely need but are a large upfront cost.
My essential gear would include:
I also want to add- DO NOT BE AFRAID TO BUY USED GEAR especially from Adorama or B&H as long as it's listed in good condition. Everything I've bought used from those companies (when listed in good condition) has felt brand new.
As far as advertising- the only thing I've seen really work for people is showing up to those Bridal shows and handing out cards and just talking to people. Besides that it's just word of mouth. But you'll need work to show potential brides. If you have never shot a wedding, I would reach out to wedding coordinators on WeddingWire/The knot/ anywhere you can and offer your services for free for one wedding. We did this and it was how we got started. Now I probably messaged 30+ coordinators and only one responded, but we built a great relationship with her and got our first 5+ weddings that way. The way I worded it was basically "we'd like to film a wedding for someone who did not intend to have a videographer (i.e wasn't in their budget at all). We want them to be aware that this is our first wedding and we do know how it will turn out."
Anyway, I'm really rambling here. Hope this info was helpful. We've been shooting weddings for the last 3 years- so long enough to know what we're talking about but short enough to remember how we started and what we did wrong.
I bought this light and put it on this bracket. The GoPro is attached with a tripod mount. I had to file part of the mounting piece on the light to make it fit on the bracket.
I'm with this guy. Be very careful.
Get a reflector. What's a reflector? This is a reflector.
How do you use a reflector? This is how you use a reflector
So I feel like I have some advice to offer here. I work at a farmers market and the booth next to mine sells candles. I would say they make about $200-300 a day. I personally don't buy candles, but I'm obsessed with wax melts and know many other people who are as well. There's honestly a whole weird subculture around it and I've been known to spend $50-100 on them at a time when ordering online. I have three drawers full of wax melts and some of them are so sought after that there are selling and trading groups on Facebook.
The booth next to me at the farmers market sells their candles for $15 each or 3 for $35. Lots of people will really fall in love with two scents and then they can't help but spend another $5 to get a third. They do a great job of marketing. All the candles are just in clear, cylinder jars. They're not colorful, just white soy wax. They use cedar wicks. Their scents are really fun and unique and have cute names like Netflix and Chill, Gummy Bears etc. I feel like they have a variety of scents that appeal to people of all ages, but their branding is clean and basic enough to also appeal to anyone.
Looking at your page I don't even see what kind of wax you use. I don't know what your wicks are made of. I don't know if you're using essential oils, which you've blended into these fragrances or what your methods are for making these candles. I have to be honest, people care about these things A LOT. Hell, I've even heard people ask how soy wax is made. These people have all the answers to these questions and people really do want to know.
I'm not going to lie, I'm in my 30s and if I saw your candles I might not even stop to look because they look old fashion to me. They look craft mall/Americana/shabby chic at best. That's my cold hard truth to you. Also the scents seem to be mostly dupes of mainstream fragrances or just really basic stock fragrances. So they just don't seem special. Nothing on the website tells me why they're special. You don't even have like "your story" or anything on your page that I can find. Also your photos are grainy and dark and just not very appealing.
As for the wax melts, I know they're not the most exciting thing in the world, but some companies make them into that. My favorite wax melt company is The Bathing Garden. (www.thebathinggarden.com)
This is my last order from them. When I get these packages, it's like Christmas morning. They charge $3.75 for each clamshell. Everything is beautiful. The fragrances are limited edition and all beautifully crafted and blended. There are new themes and some fragrances are rereleased annually. Here's the kicker- they're so busy that the turn around time is SIX WEEKS. When I first heard this I thought what a horrific business model. I can't imagine waiting a month and a half to get an order from them. When I got that first order I about died. Everything was amazing. I've never smelled such smells. Since that first order I've almost always had an open order with them. I just got that order and I'm now waiting on another order I places maybe three weeks ago.
They do a fragrance of the month and it's hard for me to resist because its just there for the month and then it's gone. They describe their fragrances in great detail and give them fun names and create every clamshell into a work of art. It feels valuable when I get it. It feels and smells worth every penny.
I will honestly say their website kinda sucks and it's worse on mobile, but their stuff is so fabulous that word of mouth creates all the buzz they need.
Also my best friend makes perfume which she sells online. She custom blends her fragrances and they are released seasonally in themes. She offers sample packs and full size products. She is very successful even though people can't smell her items before spending money on them. Her descriptions are very through.
Start with better photos. That's super important. Get this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CX9S8A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MjtgzbWTZ49MH
The weird backgrounds aren't doing your stuff any favors. Maybe include some props depending on the fragrances. I sell nail polish online, which I make. Sometimes props can be fun. You can see that this photo was taken in the lightbox and it's fun and bright.
I hope this wasn't too harsh and is at least some what helpful. I've been selling nail polish online for four years and did over 11k sales on etsy last year. I woke a full time job and most weeks I only have one solid day to work on my polish business. I would say that branding and unique offerings/names are at least 80% of why my business is successful. I make it all really personal and informational and entertaining to buy products from my shop. Which is what I want when I buy something online.
Budget Rig
I mainly shoot internet video for my daughter and events.
This is good for taking it to another level:
https://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-i1Display-Pro-Display-Calibration/dp/B0055MBQOW
Google "HCFR" and "DISPLAYCAL" free software you would want to use with it. Feel free to PM me for tips on how to use with TVs vs PC monitors (it's designed with software out of the box for PC-connected monitors only).
Using this with the bundled software will at least get your backlight brightness and contrast dialed in, and some color tone and color space/white balance stuff. With the HCFR, DISPLAYCAL or other software like CALMAN which costs money, you can dial it in even more.
Good luck :D
Thanks! I do have a little lightbox, but honestly I've been a bit lazy lately. So I've just been throwing things on a piece of posterboard in either natural light or under the very bright LED lighting in my kitchen. And I use my phone (Galaxy S9) as the camera.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I09WHLW x 2 - Speedlights - $56
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Wireless-Speedlite-Receiver-Universal/dp/B00A47U22U - Wireless Trigger - $19
https://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Photography-Light-Stands-Cases/dp/B001WB02Z4 - Light Stands - $29
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Professional-Universal-Speedlite-Umbrella/dp/B00JJJR7PY - x2 - Cold Shoe - $22
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0132I34K4 - Octobox - $23
https://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Premium-Shoot-Through-Translucent-Umbrella/dp/B005ODKMOC - Shoot though umbrella - $14
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-43-inch-Collapsible-Multi-Disc-Reflector/dp/B002ZIMEMW - 5 in 1 reflector - $20
That brings you for a full starting light setup that can be used for headshots and starting boudoir for $183. And you even have flexablity in there to use a 1 light setup with reflector or use 2 lights. You would want a few sandbags to keep the gear stable, but I am not including those in the price.
Now for a background setup
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E6GRHBO/ref=psdc_3444601_t1_B00MTF6ZVC
Is a good basic stand but hard to fit under your budget with the above lighting gear.
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Studio-Collapsible-Backdrop-1-8x2-8m/dp/B00UWL02PU is also an okay starting backdrop, Grey can be turned into white or black. I will warn you that you will need a fabric steamer to get the lines out, but that is pretty much the same however you go with cloth. Another more expensive choice is to go with seamless paper, I love working with paper, but it is an ongoing expense to use it.
Now if you are going to make this her studio all the time, they make http://www.homedepot.com/p/EUCATILE-32-sq-ft-96-in-x-48-in-Hardboard-Thrifty-White-Tile-Board-HDDPTW48/205995949 that you can use to make a great background. Or to me the better option if you are going to use a room as a full time studio, paint the walls, put down hardwood or laminate, and you have a great studio setup.
One of these + iPhone + awesome girlfriend lol
It's this one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GIL6EU4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
A little bit pricey but it really makes lighting and taking photos a breeze. I don't regret the purchase at all. I'm assuming it's due to prime day, but it's actually $35 cheaper right now than what I paid a few weeks ago.
Yes, that's an expensive camera. You can put an entire 4K studio together for less. Here's how:
Camera and Sound
Support
Studio Lighting and Backdrop:
For background, you might want to consider green photographic paper instead of stands, crossbars and unwieldy sheets of muslin, as seen in [this video from Wistia] (http://wistia.com/learning/diy-office-video-studio):
For less than the price of a [$948 Sony RX100 IV] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZDWGM34/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00ZDWGM34&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) (which has no mic jack, by the way) you'll be able to produce well-lit 4K content with decent sound and a stable image with smooth pans and tilts.
You will also have a basic chromakey studio with which to add special effects.
Here are some examples of what this camera can do:
Narrative
Documentary
Travel/Nature
Timelapse
Timelapse and Slow Motion
And here are a few examples from YouTube (please watch at 2160p and your monitor's highest resolution):
It's a pretty good still camera too: https://www.flickr.com/groups/panasonic-lumix-g7/pool/
In my view, this is the best still/video, large sensor interchangeable lens camera you can buy in this price range and a very good value for your money.
Hope this is close to what you're looking for - good luck with your YouTube channel - and best of the New Year!
EDIT: As of this revision, the price of the [G7/AT8024 deal from original source increased] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018J8EZVE/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B018J8EZVE&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20), so I substituted a less expensive option.
It depends on the look you're trying to achieve in your photo. Invest in a reflector/diffuser and it will help solve a lot of problems when it comes to harsh shadows etc..
Here's an okay enough video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xIEYhDYeC_A
Edit: I think I just got what you're trying to say. If you the photographer should be in the shadow while shooting or if your subject should be in the shadow while you shoot in the light. If your subject is in the shadow the light on them will be more diffuse (softer shadows). If you're in the shadow and the subject is exposed to light, the subject will be more exposed with harsher shadows. I still stand by my previous recommendation with an addition of a UV lens and a lens hood because it still all depends on the look you're trying to achieve in your photo. These tools just help you have better control of the light that enters your camera and how it falls on your subject.
I'm actually the husband from this shindig, but I would suggest making sure it has good lighting. Most likely the venue won't have a perfectly lit spot for a selfie booth all ready to go (honestly some places might, but check/make some preparations) I work in production so I set up a pair of 500 watt photo floods with some 45" umbrellas on a pair of C stands (any stands will do I just had these on hand) if you can snag some cheaper stands on amazon this is a really quick easy way to get pro looking light where you want it. There's also tons of ready to go kits on Amazon like this, but I can't really vouch for any of them specifically.
You may want to chat with your DJ/photographer and ask if they have any of this equipment and would be willing to rent it. If you don't see yourself using it again or don't want to be the ones to set up/take it down.
> While I appreciate the concerns, I've already been taking photos of people at night/parties for a while with the led of my iphone and the results are rather good.
Fair enough. If you're happy with the results, that's what matters.
> Autofocus works great with the extra light, the white balance is correct and I shot in raw, so I fix it later if necessary. Also, hot glue is quite easy to take from the camera.
The reason you're able to autofocus better is that your iPhone is acting as a mock autofocus assist. However, you would be better served with a dedicated autofocus assist such as that found on an external flash. It is infrared and is both less distracting to guests and more effective for focusing due to the pattern it projects. If you continue to shoot at clubs, you are eventually going to make it into higher-profile venues and I promise you they are going to ask you to turn off any continuous lights you plan to use so as to avoid ruining the ambiance.
I've been professionally shooting live events (including clubs) for over 15 years. This post is an example of my experience/credentials (including samples of club photos). It's up to you if you want to follow my advice, but I can pretty much guarantee you that an external hotshoe light is going to yield better results and look more professional than gluing something to your DSLR unless you are very skilled in engineering and manufacturing.
> I bought some small extra bright leds and while the light is colder what really bothers me is the intensity, which is lower than the iphone's. I could make a led ring, but I tried to google the type of led apple use but they only talk vagely about how awesome apple is. I just need a very Bright LED i could power with a small battery I have.
Apple's LED isn't an LED. It's two LEDs: one with a blue cast that provides primary light output, and one with an orange cast for better color balance with skin tones. If you're dead-set on an external LeD, I would again point you to one such as that I linked before. It will be a night-and-day (no pun intended) difference in output when compared against your iPhone. Some of them even come with filters for balancing against incandescent and fluorescent light. I own two of those and they work.
These tools exist for a reason. There are certainly more powerful lights than those I've linked. But you don't have to spend an arm and a leg, nor assemble one that you have to glue to your camera. They will be more effective, easier to control, won't make your rig look unprofessional, and will probably offer more light output (900 lumens at 1 meter, adjustable) for less money (due to mass production) than you can assemble yourself. $25-$30 isn't much for 160 LEDs, but that's your call.
To add to what /u/bard108 said - the preview you seen on the back of the camera's LCD screen is a JPG that the camera processes on it's own according to whatever picture style you've got the camera set to.
jpg vs raw
If you are shooting in JPG mode only, then the files coming from the camera should look pretty close to that on screen preview when you pull them off of the memory card, however if you are working in RAW mode you need to actually use a raw converter (Lightroom, Adobe Camera RAW, Capture One, etc) to get the colors where you want them to be.
white balance
In a few of your images on your website, it appears that you are either using the wrong white balance setting, or you are shooting with auto-white balance and the camera is guessing wrong.
Here's an article about setting custom white balance with Nikon cameras: Setting White Balance
If you are shooting RAW, I recommend getting a pocket sized grey card and keeping it in your kit. Take one photo for each different lighting scenario, with the grey card near the center of the frame and then when you bring your photo in to your RAW processor you use the white balance dropper tool on the grey card to get a neutralized white balance.
Neutral white balance might not be where you want to live (some images feel better if they are warmer or cooler) but it's a starting point for your decision making.
color space
If you ARE shooting in JPG mode, pay attention to which color space your camera is using. Generally you'll have the option to use sRGB or Adobe1998.
Adobe1998 is better if you plan to do editing on the JPG once it leaves the camera, but if you want to just upload the images to flickr (or wherever) without doing any edits whatsoever then sRGB is a better choice.
Anything you want to upload to the web needs to be saved in the sRGB color space because most modern web browsers only really understand that colorspace. If you upload something in Adobe1998 or ProPhoto by accident you'll usually get a weird color cast. ie sometimes skin tones look greenish which is no bueno.
(I will say it doesn't look like this is your problem here though)
calibration
Now... lets talk about that iMac, and color calibration.
Most displays are not calibrated out of the box. The ones that are will cost upwards of $1500 (on the low end) just for the monitor... so what i'm saying is you are almost definitely working on a computer that doesn't have a calibrated display.
That means what you see on the screen will almost never be a close representation of what you will get if you make a print of the photos you're working on.
You actually need a device to calibrate your display, called a colorimeter. The process is pretty simple actually.
You need to set your display at the brightness you prefer working at, and make sure your mac is set to not automatically adjust display brightness because otherwise you'll never be able to realy know what the image's exposure looks like.
Once you've done that, you can run the calibration software process (which is 99% automated and not complex) about once every 2 weeks just to keep things in line.
TL;DR The images you posted to flickr just look as though you need to bump the saturation slider in photoshop/ACR just a bit honestly - but tread lightly. A little goes a long way.
You definitely have a lot of work to do in terms of learning post production and managing colors, but I definitely recommend that you do your best to start by having a calibrated display, and managing your camera's white balance setting - otherwise most of your time spent editing will be for naught.
Aww thank you! I've seen your posts around, I love your pics!
I bought some umbrella lights awhile back, and I usually have them out while I'm taking a photo-set. It makes a big difference, especially since the natural lighting in my apartment isn't the best. These are the ones I have :)
Haha it's arguably even more extra than reflectors. I got this pop up photo studio as an Amazon warehouse deal without a great excuse except maybe Poshmark/eBay listings. It has lights built in and a hole in the top and flaps in the front section so you can shoot into it without letting the light escape! It folds to be relatively compact and I can fit it behind or under furniture, so even in my little apartment, it's not super obtrusive. The quality of light really exceeded my expectations, though!
Viltrox L116T
I like his videos but quite often you can find something much better for the same price or around it. If its a paid job you look bad bringing PVC pipe equipment.
3 point umbrella kit and that includes the bag and bulbs.
Hello! Here's a look out of my comfort zone, I usually stick to neutral warm shades like oranges and browns but I decided to try something new.
PRODUCTS USED
Anastasia Beverly Hills Dipbrow Pomade in Chocolate
Nyx Brow Mascara in Chocolate
Colourpop Shadow in I Owe You (transition shade)
Colourpop Shadow in Paradox (maroon)
Colourpop Shadow in Central Perk (brown)
Citycolor Shimmer Shadow in Beach Cottage (green)
Nyx Crystal Liner in Crystal Silk
Nyx Face & Body Loose Pigment in Gold (inner corner)
Too Faced Perfect Eyes Waterproof Liner in Perfect Black
Too Faced Better Than Sex Mascara
Ardell Lashes in 207
Too Faced Born This away Foundation in Warm Beige
Nyx HD Concealer in Beige
LA Girl Loose Powder in Banana
Tarte Bronzer in Park Ave. Princess
Anastasia Beverly Hills Glow Kit in Snow & White Sand
LIGHTS
Photography Photo Portrait Studio 600W Day Light Umbrella Continuous Lighting Kit by LimoStudio, LMS103 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005FHZ2SI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_hO9PcBfKm1jNY
Here is what I have:
Stands
Mounts
Haven't bought any yet, probably these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L4YR0BS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_DGh2wbJ6MYXR9
I recently picked up almost everything on this list so I can give you an honest opinion and I'm a vfx artist trying to get out there and shoot my own content.
The fisheye....we never use it. We shot a prom and that was the only time we used it, and that was for b-roll because the kids loved it.
Definitely pick up the Sigma 30mm f/1.4. It's such a great lens! I almost use if for everything I do, but it's also good to have a wide angle lens. I currently use one of my buddy's which is a Canon 17mm-85mm.
Nodal Ninja I haven't seen before, but looks great.
Video tripod is good, I use a Manfrotto 502 but it's way more expensive, so this looks like a decent alternative. Also, the quick release plates are awesome. You'll eventually want to pick up tonnes of these. I used 2 yesterday to put on both the bottom of my new slider, as well as the top. I have one on my cage as well.
You can probably do without the Shoulder Rig for now. You may consider using the Kamerar Tank 2 cage with rail system to hook up the Kamerar Follow Focus. I found that once I got my Tank, I just disassembled the shoulder rig and never used it since. The Glidecam is something that I've been considering as my next purchase. Check out my thread asking about the glidecam.
Definitely grab the NTG-2 and possibly a Zoom H4N. The sound quality is fantastic. You need an XLR cable, windshield, boompole, and a shock mount.
Kamerar's Follow Focus is solid. It gets a little cramped using a smaller lens, the follow focus, and a matte box though. You have to tinker with teeth to learn how you need to set it up properly so that the teeth don't slip.
The Matte Box, while nice to look at, hasn't proven it's worth to me. I shoot with the Sigma 30mm f/1.4 and because the lens is so short, the matte box does very little to block out light. I just got the new "donut" in the mail yesterday so maybe that will help, but I wouldn't advise getting it when you can spend that money on something else.
And the backpack is pretty awesome, definitely worth picking up. If you travel to shoots I would recommend the Pelican 1510 to store all your stuff in.
I would also recommend grabbing a couple LED lights and the batteries and charger. These things are a life saver. I'll be picking up a third this week.
I hope this helped you out a bit. Like I said I was in a similar situation to you a couple months ago, but everything's coming together now. If you have any more specific questions about any of this, let me know. Take care.
Picked up a color meter from Amazon
X-Rite i1Display Pro (EODIS3) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0055MBQOW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AdSGDbDWHX785
Already completed the rec-709 and imported it onto madvr.. Working my way through BT.2020 now.. Looking forward to see what improvements I get.
Pretty cheap light that companies put their own branding on. Here it is from Neewer
Simple on camera lighting, most likely a small LED bank attached to the cameras hotshoe. Something like this
Edited to add: The softness can come from a piece of diffusion taped over the light, or they make softboxes for the light I linked.
It's a mix of f/4 and f/1.8. Mostly f/1.8. I made a little white box out of some large card stock, and one of these. I used a 160 LED Video/Studio light for the lighting.
The camera/lens setup is a Nikon D3100 with the Nikkor 35mm 1.8G.
> do you guys think the AW will go any lower than 849.99 (price on microcenter)?
Watch /r/buildapcsales. This monitor gets posted almost weekly. $849.99 is fairly common, but we've seen a few posts in the last month or so where it's gone a little lower. Here's a few recent but expired examples:
I personally think that Black Friday through Cyber Monday will see this thing hit $799 again, possibly $779 for a new record low. Here's hoping!
Dell online will also price match most national retailers and etailers. I got Dell to price match Microcenter since there is no MC near me (I think they sold it online too, but Dell's online returns are as easy as Amazon).
> , but wondering if colorimeters usually go on sale— especially with Black friday coming up
Prices fluctuate, but I haven't noticed any big sales recently. As per my other post, here's the 3 to watch out for and their current Amazon prices.
Checking CCC for the price history on those, here's what I'm seeing.
If you have to buy today, the ColorMunki is the best value when compared to the other options, and compared to historical prices. If you can wait until the holidays, they all should hit some fairly low prices. I'd still recommend the ColorMunki as I feel it's the best consumer home-use colorimeter, but some like to splurge for the i1DisplayPro as it's a better long term option for multi-device calibration due to the better build quality, durability, and faster sensor.
Manfrotto Super Clamp, I also recommend getting the articulated arm to go with it.
Get a foldable bounce for super simple fill or shoot in shade and expose for the skin
http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-110CM-Collapsible-Multi-Disc-Reflector/dp/B002ZIMEMW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1324168094&sr=8-1
$13, with gold, silver, and white. I rarely use anything but the white, personally, but there are some occasions here and there where I've been very thankful to have the options. Not really a huge investment there, also folds up, and if you're a professional, well, it certainly helps you look the part. Perception is a huge part of the business.
Here ya' go
Just a few more to add to the list:
18% grey card
Neewer TT560 flash
Neewer 43-inch 5-in-1 reflector
Tiffen Circular polarizer
7 ft. light stand
47" Speedlight Umbrella Softbox
Continuous lighting kit
New camera bag
[EDIT] Added more things to the list, as I think of things I'll continue to expand it.
I don't like the starving student deal.
Here's what I'd buy right now if all my gear were suddenly gone and I had to get new lighting
Total now is only around $125 and that's including the batteries and some decent flash triggers. Also, obviously all of this gear is reusable when you go better later on. Obviously I didn't link to gaffer tape or gels, but those are cheap and easy to find.
p.s.: I own everything I just linked to you except the RF-602. I plan on buying that next.
I'm thinking of getting a lighting kit. I saw this one on Amazon: Link
Since I only do photography as a hobby (and funzies!), would this work out?
You may want to check out this video. It's the video Saatchi has on their website showing how to photograph artwork.
If direct sunlight isn't doing the trick, you could try using a simple lighting kit like this one.. It's relatively inexpensive considering what you get. I wrote a guide on how to use that lighting kit with a DSLR if you're interested.
Aside from that, make sure that you're using the lowest ISO possible, preferably 100 or 200 depending on your camera. Higher ISO levels means that you'll get artifacts in dark areas, particularly blacks. Use a tripod or a table and turn off vibration reduction on the lens if it has that setting since it shouldn't be moving anyway. Also, like the video says, try to make it so that your painting takes up the maximum amount of the sensor without being cut off. You can always rotate a photo of a canvas that is supposed to be vertical later. By taking the photo horizontally, you can zoom in more and capture more of the detail.
Not more important than audio but important for clean images which is important. If you are budget conscious and just starting out and need something to learn with something like this can get you started.
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-53-005312-Portable-Photo-Studio/dp/B01GIL6EU4
I've been using this one for months now for my Twitch streams and really enjoy it. Inexpensive and does just what I need it to do.
Here's before the kit, and here's after.
Maybe you should buy her a lighting kit!
Consider lighting instead. All cameras have noise problems. The expensive ones just have better low light conditions. If I were you I'd rather get a light kit (you can Amazon a 3 light kit and get one for under $150). Look up three point lighting and go from there. Cameras are expensive but they also might not solve your problem. Lights always will given that they gave enough watts.
Here's a good starter kit:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005FHZ2SI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482256333&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=light+kit
If you're keen on getting a camera look into repurposing a DSLR as a webcam. However for streaming purposes I really don't think you need much more than a $100 webcam.
Hope this helps,
Chris
I find this light to be very effective, not to mention pretty cheap, and I like that it has a few different "temperatures" of light and has more than enough flexibility for me to get it in just the right spot.
​
I also rely heavily on this head magnifier as my vision isn't what it once was. It's super cheap and works great.
​
I find that Army Painter brushes work really well and cost much less than most of the other brushes I like. I particularly like their detail brushes. I don't think I could paint eyes without my beloved "The Psycho" brush.
​
I love this light box. Also very cheap (noticing a trend, I'm always looking for a deal, lol). These acrylic display boards fit nicely inside the light box and give photos a cool, polished look.
If the interviews are under 20 minutes long, or can be recorded in multiple takes:
It's a little over your budget, and I'd still recommend you spend another ~$60 for a set of lights but that might not be necessasary if what you're filming is already lit.
The EOS-M is surprisingly capable at this sort of shooting, but as I mentioned it does have a 20 minute per take recording limit so it might require some thought on how to best use it. Using Magic Lantern allows the camera to automatically resume recording, but you will lose a fraction of a second when that happens.
You also might want to consider a Rode Videomic (not the GO version!) for the run-and-gun driver interviews as using lapel mics on them might not always be a practical solution.
I doubt you can get better quality for the price, though /u/HybridCamRev is bound to show up and proove me wrong :-)
These look pretty good:
http://www.amazon.ca/Neewer%C2%AE-Studio-Portrait-Product-Photography/dp/B00L4YR0BS/ref=sr_1_17?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1456928793&sr=1-17&keywords=heavy+duty+light+stand
You'd probably need to add ball heads so you could tilt the lighthouses down.
These are the stands and I got these pivoting mounts so I can angle the lighthouses down a bit.
Definitely this. Even learning to bounce flash can dramatically improve the quality of your photos. Some of my favorite photos that I've taken have been in large part due to the lighting used. A few yongnuo flash units, umbrellas, stands, and triggers and you can really get into some lights for cheap. They won't support high speed sync, ETTL, flash groupings, or anything like that which means you're setting everything manually. What better way to learn, though! For under 300 bucks you can get a 3 flash setup and start taking some really great photos. If bounce is your thing you can get the Yongnuo 565 which puts out tons of power and does a great bounce (was the sole flash in that second photo). The only thing I wish it has was high speed sync.
Good comments from u/thnikkamax - I'll add that for location shooting, a popup reflector or even a sheet of foamcore can make a big difference - if you can get someone to hold it. Watch some youtube videos showing how to hold and angle a reflector; and grab it yourself and look at the subject while you lift it, angle it, play with different heights and angles. Then tell the assistant "hold it like this". Usually up pretty high, and angled up, gives a natural look. Distance from the subject can control how much it fills in shadows. Some popups have a choice of white, silver, and gold - all have different looks. Gold is often good to blast hard light from the back on hair and shoulders.
There are a lot in this photo that is great, but you don't want to know what you've done right, correct? Maybe that's how I am :P
Things to consider.
Otherwise, great shot. Keep shoot! I'd love to see more of your work.
Cheers.
I actually just spent $100 so I can finally do HF from my apartment:
Still waiting on the antenna itself. Then I can see how well it performs from my balcony.
I picked up everything off Amazon (other than the camera which I bought 2nd hand off Craigslist):
this is the only way you're really going to get it calibrated. I have one of these, used it with the ColorHCFR fork that's being worked on by people on AVSforum. You aren't going to get your greyscale right without a meter.
http://www.amazon.com/Xrite-EODIS3-i1Display-Pro/dp/B0055MBQOW
Thank you! I use a photo booth like this
https://www.amazon.com/LimoStudio-Photography-Studio-Lighting-AGG349/dp/B005CX9S8A/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?keywords=photo+booth&qid=1573929941&sprefix=photo+boo&sr=8-16
And I use a pixel 4xl to take my pictures. Usually the only thing I adjust in my photos is the lighting/contrast to make the background blend in more seamlessly!
AmazonBasics Portable Photo Studio https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GIL6EU4?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
I bought this:
AmazonBasics Portable Photo Studio https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GIL6EU4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_yZpizb6MH2CJT
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GIL6EU4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is the one I use. It has lights built in to the top so you don't have to worry about external lighting. I usually have shoes in stock and this has been big enough for everything I've sold and photographs them well. The only shoe it doesn't photograph well is black dress shoes (glare, but I imagine that would be similar for any set up like this. It's not really cheap but blows the old light box I had out of the water.
Easiest thing I can think of to accomplish that is to get some cheap photography softbox lights. Those things are bright af, they fill the whole room if you position them correctly and the light is very evenly white. Would that qualify?
Like these
I bought this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GIL6EU4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's $135.xx and really great. My photos look awesome now.
Well I wanted a Manker E03H Nichia but they're not on amazon anymore. :( So I'll take one of the Viltrox panels instead; I know people that do videography and such.
For what you asked for, the Nitecore recommendation by u/PreparationX is a great place to start. While it’s completely outside the form factor you requested, I feel that no thread about a close-up inspection light for fine-detail work is complete without mention of a Viltrox panel light. Theyre designed for videography, have tremendously high color rendering, dial-adjustable color temperature (which could be useful for finding flaws in a variety of materials) and project a very diffuse, smooth light. It’s big and wouldn’t clip to your hat, but it would do a tremendous job of providing the light you need.
What I've been using if I need to go portable (i.e. battery powered and no other power source) and it's not a large scale production, I've been using a couple of these cheaper LED lights - http://www.amazon.com/Neewer%C2%AE-CN-160-camera-video-light/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1381513337&sr=8-2&keywords=led+light - mounted on these cheap light stands - http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Photography-Light-Stands-Cases/dp/B001WB02Z4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381514172&sr=8-1&keywords=CowboyStudio+Set+of+Two+7+feet+Photography+Light+Stands+with+Cases .
The lights can get quite bright, but they can also be used pretty dim, so I really like them for what they are. The colors aren't perfect, so in the past I've sometimes used actual light gels and taped them over the light (almost always using the diffusing filter). They run off AA batteries, or you could use a few different options of camera batteries.
You could use several different light stands, I just linked you to the cheap ones I bought for these lights. One downside of those particular stands is that the pole isn't completely circular, so you can't just twist it to get the light in the direction you want, you have to actually rotate the stand itself. Not always an issue, but could be a hassle in tight spaces or on uneven terrain.
Pick up one of these. It's a set.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001WB02Z4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012FTXOW4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And two of those. This is my set up for when I want to bring my vive somewhere, and it works perfectly. No wobble or anything.
You have to bounce the light elsewhere using reflectors.
Reflectors
These can reflect the light where you want or diffuse and deflect the light.
Also, ND filters help considerably if you’re shooting with a DSLR or Mirrorless such as the A7III
Buy a reflector and bring a friend! Hold it high and shine the sun back onto one side of there face =) Lighting is what makes a photo amazing, this is an easy way to create great lighting =) If you buy a reflector also try to shoot somewhere in the shade and not in direct sunlight.
http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-43-Inch-Collapsible-Multi-Disc-Reflector/dp/B002ZIMEMW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414167413&sr=8-1&keywords=reflector
u/pastramiswissrye is totally right in that lights, sound, lenses, and media are all more important than the best camera.
My personal favorite camera in that price range is the Panasonic G7 and a good 12-35 lens. The G7 is like the little brother to the GH4 as it does 4k and just is missing some of the more pro features and is $600 for the camera. The lens is another $600 but you could just use the kit lens and upgrade your lens later.
Continuing with what Pastrami said, you should have good audio, lights, and media storage, in addition to the camera and lens. For audio, the rode videomic pro is a good all-around shotgun mic that you can put on a boom pole for good short film on location sound, however you will need someone to help hold your boom pole.
For lights, a good reflector will help you use the sun as a light when shooting outside on location for a short film. If you are in a studio, this four socket CFL light kit will go a long way to help. I personally use one of them and they are great for the price. Just pop in four cfl bulbs and you are good to go. If you would prefer LED lights which are smaller and don't heat up as much, but are pricer, you can get this LED studio light kit.
On the media storage side of things, you are going to want to pick up a few of these 64GB U3 SD cards for use with your G7 or any other new camera you get. Especially if you plan on shooting in 4K.
If you are going to shoot in 4K, your file sizes are going to go way up and you are definitely going to need to get more hard drive space on your computer. You may even have to upgrade your computer to handle 4K video editing. It all depends on what you have and what you want to do.
On the editing side, I personally use Final Cut Pro X on my Mac. It is $300 but a great piece of editing software, used by pros. If you are on a mac but don't want to spend money, just use iMovie, it will probably do what you need it to do unless you edit in 4K. On the windows side, some people use sony vegas, some people use AVID, some people use premiere pro, there is a bunch of them out there and you kind of just have to choose one. (I have never used any of them)
Like he said, there is no canon r6i. I assume you mean T6i, but you still need to do some more research. I hope this helps!
Hi /u/picrh - Here's a great review/tutorial on what you can achieve with a 3 point ring light setup using the Diva Ring Light: http://www.lafcpug.org/reviews/review_diva_ring.html
But instead of Divas, you might want to consider three battery powered F&V R-300s with stands instead.
You can get three [F&V ring lights with soft boxes for $269.99 each at Adorama] (http://www.adorama.com/FVSBBRLR300.html?KBID=66297).
Three ring lights, with 3 stands ([2 for $22] (http://amzn.to/1vjJXtl) and a [single for $15] (http://amzn.to/1tlfUDo)), 3 [$10 Sony FP-batteries] (http://amzn.to/1vjKvQ1) and an [$18.50 dual battery charger] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=111315155908&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg) will give you a great 3 point lighting setup for less than $900.
The great thing about the R-300 is that you can put it on your rig with a [$40 rail mount] (http://www.adorama.com/FV15RMR300.html?KBID=66297), as seen here: https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-rhqiHavOnGM/U1J4paO2vRI/AAAAAAAAIrk/eW1mhniD0gY/w724-h543-no/P1120708.JPG
This is something you cannot do with the Diva.
I have both the Diva and the R-300, and they both put out a lot of cool, even light, but the F&Vs are much more portable (because they are so much smaller) and more flexible (because they can be AC or DC powered). Here's a pic of both lights in my studio: https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-jrqsQtPN3TU/U1sjz3-jwnI/AAAAAAAAIt4/k2WveyQeO4o/w724-h543-no/P1120732.JPG
Good luck!
This is the easiest thing in photography for you to do once you know exactly how to go about it,especially now with digital cameras. There are no moving subjects, no strobes necessary and not really a ton of expensive gear either. Take a look at this: This was about 5 minutes of shooting followed by 30 minutes of post, if it's setup correctly it's really that easy.
You have two main problems, both related to light. The camera doesn't know what it is seeing and your computer(monitor) doesn't know how to output it for you. So that is WB on the camera side and monitor profiling on the computer side. Let's focus on WB in camera for now.
You mentioned you are using a piece of paper for custom WB, is it possible that you are now photographing using the flash with this WB? If so, this could cause the effect you mentioned.
I guess in theory you could use a piece of white paper as an RGB neutral source, but the value of this color is very high - it makes more sense to use a gray card as some people have mentioned. This will do two things - help set your exposure as well as give you a neutral color target, similar to your white sheet but lower in value.
If you want to do it on the cheap and easy, get a set of continuous lights. One problem with the normal lighting you have is that it will most likely be different colors, e.g. tungsten bulbs, fluorescents, daylight &c. Another is that the light will most likely be pretty hard, diffuse is the way to go with this. These are great! Cheap and excellent for what you want to do. You should use them alone, without any other lighting. They are somewhere right around ~5500K, so you could even set your WB to flash mode and they'd be pretty close to on. You can shoot in RAW as mentioned below, but using the camera LCD is one more route to color-related insanity. If you do this, you have the problem as mentioned above related to monitor profiling *2. If possible, shoot in RAW, then look at the histogram of the image, either on the back of the camera or at individual channels in software. If the white balance is set incorrectly, in your neutral card you'll see clear color skew where your channels expose at different levels(R higher than G higher than B, for example). Here's a lifted example:
You'll also need to deal with reflection of your light source in your image, this is easily managed by placing the lights outside of the family of relevant direct angles, good article here:
This might seems like a big pain, but it isn't.
$20 for a stack of cut acrylic? You've got to do a much better job at explaining the value proposition here. Especially when the average person is not going to have any idea what it is you're selling.
Also - pictures, pictures, pictures. The average person will spend 5 seconds on your website tops, read 1 sentence (the heading), look at the pics, and leave. Your pictures look like they were taken in your backyard in the dark. Go buy:
Also, work on your shopify website. Spend a few hours - its not hard to modify an existing theme to look good. You need some color and a more clean layout. The site does not look professional. Why would a customer trust you if your store front looks amateur? They'll leave before they even look at your products.
If you believe in this niche, great. Make the website slick, get good pictures, think about why YOU would purchase these and write up some good copy, and then go drum up some business by participating in a related forum / subreddit / listserv / whatever. Is this actually a problem people need solving? You'll find out.
P.S. I know those blacklight photos look cool and all, but do your customers actually care? Are you going to use this product under blacklight? If not, you're probably turning off anyone older than highschool age.
P.P.S. Stop referring to yourself as cardistry-cards in the copy. The hyphen isn't doing you any favors. Shorten to CC or Cardistry if you're even going to do the 3rd person thing.
Nylon, ASA, and polycarbonate all need an enclosure and will warp like ABS or worse. Copolyester is another term for PETG.
There are cheap enclosure options if you just want to experiment and don't want to invest a lot of money.
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Shooting-Diffusion-Backdrops-Photography/dp/B00GKGGICC
this is really interesting!
I always prefer DIY solutions, but it's worth saying that a small lightbox is really inexpensive (~$20) and can be easily found on amazon.
> I'm really not sure how early I should queue to ensure I get front row seats. It's either going to be early morning on the 27th or at night on the 26th.
I think, just in case, you should consider bringing (or purchasing in Mexico) a light but tall tripod, just in case you are not allowed into the front seats because of all the conference VIPs that want to see Elon from the front rows.
Just to avoid having a perfectly stable landscape video with Elon obstructed by a VIP head every now and then.
(Also perhaps ask the conference officials whether regular attendees are allowed to bring in a tripod and make recordings.)
THANK YOU! I just posted in another thread that I bought these
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNZJLG4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
and I was worried because I couldn't angle the base station down. You're a life saver.
So I wanted to build a very light weight portable antenna mast to use during public service events. Amazon covered all the parts with prime shipping on most. Here’s how I did it.
L-Bracket
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018ES4X34/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_N8khDbH19CTZP
NMO to SO239
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KY64CHW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
9’ mast
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L4YR0BS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Take the L bracket and hammer it flat.
Drill out the center hole so it will fit over the center post on the mast
Tighten with nut
Attach adapter plus your favourite NMO antenna and some feed line...
Voila. Portable light weight 9’ mast
Also> it’s a 2 pack. You theoretically could use it to setup NVIS HF antennas. If it gets windy, you could guy wire it to some tent stakes. This came out awesome and I can’t wait to set up at our next event!
Well using B & H as a pricing reference, here is a filmmaking 'kit' I have compiled :
Of course, there are other things such as some AA and AAA batteries and cheap sd cards for the audio recorder, as well as a pop filter. You're going to have to get creative with how you get the audio recorder close to your subject without it being in the shot.
Looks like these:
http://www.amazon.com/NEEWER%C2%AE-Dimmable-Digital-Camcorder-Panasonic/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458333618&sr=8-1&keywords=neewer+led
I bought one a good while ago. Relatively cheap and has come in handy more than once.
Those lights are only $25 and they mount on top of a DSLR if you don't have the stands for them
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004TJ6JH6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If anyone is wondering its a Leopold 660c, and a Leopold 210tp with MX Browns.
LED strip is Antec Halo LED Bias Lighting.
Also showing some keys made by Binge
You need a tool to make sure the colors are accurate for sRGB colors. Something like this. Until you've done that, you can't be sure your screen is actually color accurate.
But as others here have mentioned, I think you're likely running in to a white balance issue. This is why it's good to shoot in RAW, then you can adjust white balance after the fact in Lightroom.
Every LCD panel is different. You need to get a calibrator and calibrate the monitors to be accurate and match.
https://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-CMUNDIS-ColorMunki-Display/dp/B0055MBQOM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1491967748&sr=8-2&keywords=colormunki
https://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-CMUNDIS-ColorMunki-Display/dp/B0055MBQOM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503551583&sr=8-1&keywords=colormunki+display
$160. This thing is invaluable imo. Does all the work for you. That said if you want to use my ICC profile on your PC you are more than welcome to. Set your monitor to "Racing" mode and set the brightness to 27.
ICC Profile:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxFMoDVxOkvkYTZEc1lmNDduNW8/view?usp=sharing
How to install ICC Profiles:
http://www.digitalcitizen.life/what-and-how-install-color-profile-your-monitor-windows
(Scroll down to "How to install a color profile in windows")
Run it through the tests here: http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/?
If you want something more accurate, get a meter such as this one: https://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-CMUNDIS-ColorMunki-Display/dp/B0055MBQOM
You cannot accurately calibrate a display by eye. Your perception of brightness and color varies depending on what you've been looking at. You can try looking through forums for an ICC profile someone else has generated. But remember, that was generated for THEIR display, not yours. Individual displays vary. That profile will probably get your display closer to correct than the defaults, but there is no guarantee of this.
First, budget in a calibration probe because without it, even the best monitor can't be trusted. You really shouldn't get a spyder (they suck) or low end xrite. The cheapest I'd recommend is the x-rite i1 display pro (and you should get the OEM model if you can as it will work with high end calibration software if/when you upgrade). For now, use this with the excellent free and open source displaycal calibration suite. Upgrade to Light Illusion or CalMan when you can afford it/need to. Most consumer and low end pro displays need to be calibrated once a month or so - even those that come "factory calibrated."
Beyond that, 10bit is nice, IPS is a must, and not all displays are created equal. Best bang for your buck in 4K right now is probably the LG 31MU97C-B (4K, DCI-P3 color, 10bit, 31", really pretty) (also I think this is the same monitor but cheaper? Ignore the poor reviews, they don't know what they're talking about). This is the same panel as in the high end Eizo that is finding itself into some color suites, but without the Eizo processing and available for almost a quarter of the price.
Here is an article with some other quality options.
That isn’t a bad option.
I do recommend budget a little more to also get yourself an X-Rite i1Display Pro.
You’ll need it to keep the display calibrated (no the factory calibration isn’t good enough, and yes this is a thing you need to do routinely). Otherwise all the cash spent on a nice display will mostly be a waste.
Bought this set on amazon. Soon realized the light box is completely useless and doesn't give a professional lighting quality. I just use the lights (don't forget to bounce of the light off a white surface) and a table lamp I already own. Paired with my iPhone 6S plus camera, results look very professional and clean. Best of all this set up cost less than $50! I believe two of the LED lights are going for $30 on amazon.
Set up on amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005CX9S8A/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Examples
(http://imgur.com/AZ4IQzS)
http://imgur.com/cjeQUfs
http://imgur.com/sbCfOxi
http://imgur.com/PvUI8ig
(http://imgur.com/CicP)
 
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005CX9S8A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLJ94-fHMfAt1yQfGbeMQqOAS7c59mbiYt
 
Knowing the above, these photos aren't really that great, I just used the settings that I already had on. These could be greatly improved if I had taken the time to do so, regardless, I appreciate the compliment! Also even if you don't have a fancy camera and light box I HIGHLY recommend watching that tutorial series on miniature photography, a lot of people around the sub could learn a ton and greatly improve the quality of the pictures they post even with just a simple camera on a smart phone.
As a TSLA long, I'd prefer they deleverage to $0 debt and outlive every other automaker that dies in the next recession. I'll wait. Dude needs a light.
My work already had the LED light, but I think it's the same if not very similar to this one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Camera-Photo/Dimmable-Digital-Camcorder-Pentax-Panasonic-Samsung-Olympus/B004TJ6JH6
The light has it's own battery so needs to be charged every so often. The external mic is powered from the GoPro.
Thanks! It's this one (ac adapter is separate). Benefit is that it's on a dimmer. And I can move it a little and use it for webcam lighting.
yup, here are some basic ones
this also needs a separate adapter (cheap)
I have this one and link
I buckled and bought two of these. Worth ever penny. They're not enough for a full room though.
You can adjust white balance to 6500 or rmaybe just buy a ColorMunki and download displaycal to try and calibrate the LG to whatever the Gateway is at.
​
https://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-ColorMunki-CMUNDIS-Accuracy-Calibration/dp/B0055MBQOM/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=colormunki&qid=1561949413&s=gateway&sr=8-1
There you go
I assume you mean the ColorMunki Display and not the Smile?
You need a hardware device to properly calibrate a monitor. I use one of these but there are cheaper alternatives.
Get yourself a portable photo booth with lights. They are $40 on Amazon and will dramatically change the look of your photos https://www.amazon.com/LimoStudio-Photography-Studio-Lighting-AGG349/dp/B005CX9S8A?ref_=bl_dp_s_web_3092063011
I was planning to, but decided to just buy one on amazon :P
This is the one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005CX9S8A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's honestly a little small for 1/100s, but for 1/144s it works great. I may get a bigger version of this later on!
Hey me too! Just bought it recently https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005CX9S8A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Lighting is a huge part of it! Here's the lightbox kit I bought. It comes with two lights- they're not super strong, but again, they work just fine for my purposes and I've been perfectly happy with it. You may want to scale up to a larger size if you do bigger pieces on a regular basis... When I periodically have a larger thing (like the Mr. Coffee machine) I just say "screw it" and take lower quality pictures, or I set it up on a giant white piece of tagboard in natural lighting (during the middle of the day) so I can get a few shots.
I have a canon t3i, budget is $400 and am upgrading my tech for beauty videos. I need new lights, focus remote control, new battery, sd card, 2 lenses. Zoom and wide.
I know this is a photo thread but hear me out and share input.
UPDATE:
I never specified that I'm focusing on video. I guess I assumed it was self explanatory with the info I went on to ask about pertaining to video.
Q's:
How much film time will this sd give me? Google says 2 hours, but maybe someone here knows better.
https://www.amazon.com/SCT-Digital-Ultimate-Extreme-S-F32-RT/dp/B007XVPI4C/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1518712664&sr=1-4&keywords=canon+t3i+sd+card
Are these lights worth it?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O9RH4HM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3VAHM8ODBLF0H&psc=1
I currently have these https://www.amazon.com/Photography-Portrait-Umbrella-Continuous-LimoStudio/dp/B005FHZ2SI/ref=sr_1_sc_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1518712989&sr=1-2-spell&keywords=limo+studip+lights
They heat up and take up too much space in my little square room and dont light enough or evenly even with my ring light in front of me.
What zoom and wide lens can I use, to zoom into face sitting 4+ feet away from tripod. I currently have the canon 50mm lens.
What wide lens can I buy? My kit lens is still too close to me even zoomed out.
Budget friendly lenses for my crop sensor.
What my videos look like now, I need to update, get a nice bokeh when zoomed into face, even lighting, and nice wide shot to use for intro and outro of videos.
https://youtu.be/TlbrPApdIyE
Any other tips on saving money, improving my videos, etc, I'm open to learning. Thank you.
I would really like to have a nice blurry background like here for intros and outros
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Dd_MQf6-dY&list=PLv8BKE_eGqqosNUuj2eDCh4Ynsh6M1HwD&index=2
If you don't have the means at the moment to invest in speedlites and remote triggers, I recommend continuous studio lights in umbrella or softbox form.
Ah, ok! I'm sure some other ladies will chime in, but I'd suggest something like this if you need an affordable option for something that can take decent photos and vids: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HLDFNKQ/
if you can do a little more: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T5A0EVQ/
Down the road you might want to upgrade to a camcorder or DSLR, but I think this is a good way to get started.
You also might consider an affordable light set if you don't have natural light: https://www.amazon.com/Photography-Portrait-Umbrella-Continuous-LimoStudio/dp/B005FHZ2SI/
I use these; http://www.amazon.com/Photography-Portrait-Continuous-LimoStudio-LMS103/dp/B005FHZ2SI/ref=sr_1_5?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1456935387&sr=1-5&keywords=photography+lighting
They're super-duper.
I have the predecessor to the 055XPROB legs, the Manfrotto 3021BPRO. They also have a horizontal mode, and I agree that they can work as long as the subject is well within the bounds of the tripod legs (if directly above), or if the camera setup is light enough to allow an overhang of the horizontal crossbar (or if your table is large enough to allow full extension of the legs).
Another option could be a combination of Manfrotto Magic Arm components, such as this basic arm and then a superclamp. Those components are the least expensive, but there are also heavy-duty arms suited for SLRs.
If you need shots from directly overhead, a copy stand could work.
We were told no tripods at the Louvre, Notre Dame and the Eifel Tower.
You might try bringing one of the Manfrotto Supper Clamps. It won't work everywhere, but I was wishing I brought mine to the top of the Eifel. Good luck!
I've been using this clamp - http://amzn.to/1S7oTqS - in addition to this arm - http://amzn.to/1S7oWD2 - to do a lot of my videos. It's very flexible and strong.
I also once built a rig using PVC that I attached to the ceiling that I could swing out of the way when I wasn't using it. It wasn't as solid as the clamp and arm, though.
Honestly I just bought this. 2 for less than $25.
They're obviously very cheap but I'm not planning on moving them around much. They don't need to be durable.
I'm still using the super cheap suggestion. Working fine since April 5th when I got the vive. Two homes, one workplace, one convention center (next to walls because bass from concerts shaking the floor), one outdoors area under a gazeebo (against a support beam because wind).
$22 for 2 tripods:
http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Photography-Light-Stands-Cases/dp/B001WB02Z4
$5 each for a mount you can swivel (buy two):
http://www.amazon.com/EXMAX-Tripod-Camera-Camcorder-Bracket/dp/B012FTXOW4
http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Photography-Light-Stands-Cases/dp/B001WB02Z4
cowboy studio wireless trigger and maybe a pair of light stand
I use this tripod, but it does come with two tripods. Maybe you could find a solo elsewhere, but having two allows you to take your Vive to somewhere and set it up for demos. Did that at a friend's house a few months ago and it worked great.
Also make sure you have a mount of some kind to make sure your lighthouse can be positioned accordingly.
THIS ONE.
But honestly, Lightroom has the biggest effect if you ask me.
I am still relatively new here but have seen you guys give so much I can't help to think you are Santa Claus or something! I admire you!
Rasta, I heard you have an unhealthy obsession with Bane.. Let's just say I kind of got escorted away from my Uni for wearing my bane suit for an outdoor showing of TDKR!! :)
Gee I am making this so long! I think I could use a safety razor after some time I have spent on wicked_edge! this one particularly!
Also as a photographer I could use a reflector so badly! I just started doing fashion portraits instead of my regular street photography/landscapes and this is a must! I like this one for the price! (<$20)
And the magic words:
C'mon...gimme.
Consider a reflector. Small and cheap way to add some light for a photo.
Neewer 43-inch / 110cm 5-in-1 Collapsible Multi-Disc Light Reflector with Bag - Translucent, Silver, Gold, White and Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002ZIMEMW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_CZKwzb1X89KQ5
Maybe a few of these
Five of these, though you should sometimes, (I think usually), use China balls instead of the reflector.
Just one of these
Any of these you need that are either Rosco or Manfrotto. I think buying individual ones instead of large packs is smarter.
Clothespins, aluminum foil, and white sheets are all helpful and you can get them at Target.
That's all I use personally, but a lot of professionals, such as Rodrigo Prieto, use these, so if you have a thousand dollars to spare. On the other hand, short of occasional Arris in larger spaces, Roger Deakins tries to use mainly incandescents indoors, often with China balls, or China balls that have had half of them spray painted black.
Inside rigging is easy, but outside, sticking a two-by-four in the hole of a cinder block can work well.
Dont forget to get extension cords, power strips with circuit breakers, and maybe some plug in dimmers, though for incandescents, you should always dim by changing the bulb wattage and for those halogen work lights, they get way orange when you dim.
Also, I didn't include China balls because I could link you to ten dollar ones, or you could get them for a dollar each at Chinese gift shops, dollar stores, whatever.
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-43-inch-Collapsible-Multi-Disc-Reflector/dp/B002ZIMEMW/ref=sr_1_4?s=photo&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480092542&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=REFLECTOR
I've used these for several shoots with great success. for 20 dollars build quality is great and i dont see them falling apart anytime soon. Unless youre going to be shooting a loooooot of portraits i wouldnt spend more.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002ZIMEMW/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 Just a cheap example. There are a variety of sizes/shapes so pick the one that makes sense for your kit. The idea is to reflect/bounce light onto your subject if you need better exposure or if you want to soften the light. Ones like this are multipurpose.
Because you are living in a rental, use something like this instead:
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Aluminum-Tripod-Stands-Softboxes-6-23/dp/B003I6ENXS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511914647&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=lighting+tripod
I mounted mine on those, allowing me to put them away or move them easily. I also use the cable to pair them instead of fiddling with getting perfect line of sight. It will give you a lot less headaches, and a lot more play time.
My experience is that the Vive's roomscale tracking is so good that even in very disadvantageous circumstances for seated play, it works great with both lighthouses turned on. You can run with just one, if you switch the one that's on to "a" mode, but I've seen no difference.
I run both lighthouses because my room layout is like this, which theoretically should be one of the worst possible ways to do the seated experience:
LH1 Monitor
┌────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────┐
│\ Chaperone boundaries Keybd/Mouse │
│ \ │
│ LH1 points Chair │
│ here │
│ │
│ ┌────────────────┘
│ Roomscale play area │
│ │ Table and
│ │ chairs here,
│ LH2 │ but view from
│ points │ LH2 to the
│ here │ area above is
│ \ │ clear
│ \ │
│ Chaperone boundaries \│
└───────────────────────────────────────────┘
LH2
LH1 is on a GorillaPod clamped to the top corner of a bookcase and pointed downwards in roughly the recommended angle; it's also at skewed on the horizontal angle a bit because of the way the GorillaPod happened to clamp, but that doesn't seem to affect tracking at all.
LH2 is on a simple aluminum light stand and screwed directly into the threading, without even a camera mount. So it's seven feet up and pointing level, not down, and I was worried that would be a problem, but it hasn't been. (As I mentioned in a different comment thread, it doesn't wobble from the motor like you might think, even though a gust from someone slamming a door is enough to wobble the spindly pole.)
My play area basically has to be situated this way because of the placement of doors and windows. So when I'm playing seated, my back is to the closer lighthouse. (If you're wondering, in roomscale games, SteamVR is happy to display an L-shaped boundary area, but some games override that, using just the big rectangle and not the smaller square where my chair is.)
With experimentation I've found that I can run from there with either lighthouse turned off, and I had no trouble with tracking, but I had occasional problems with occlusion (if the controller is in my lap, it can't see LH2 at all; if I bring my left hand up to my face, the HMD can lose sight of LH1). With both lighthouses on, no such problems.
So while you're right that you can run with one lighthouse, I really don't see any reason to, given that you have to physically fiddle with them (to turn one off and turn the other to "a"; the Bluetooth link can't do this, it can only turn them both on and off). I guess you save a little power, but you don't get illustratively better tracking response. This may be a YMMV thing, but to the OP I'd just say you're probably prematurely optimizing for what won't be a problem in the first place.
(Obviously if you mount it to the ceiling using the bottom threading, it'll be upside-down, but that shouldn't matter either; except for the field of view, the orientation of the lighthouses is irrelevant.)
No you don't.
In my experience, a light box is difficult to work well with. Here's why, you need powerful lights to get a nice diffuse illumination in the box, shining through the fabric takes power. Sticking a camera through a hole will often show up in the reflection in shiny glaze and it looks horrible. Newer cellphones are good for this as they're so small.
I'm pretty satisfied now with a gradient backdrop and some backward facing umbrella lights. I never managed to take good photos with the light box, it now sits unused.
I use:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B003WLY24O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0000A4EZ4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I know that it sucks posting this expecting yoyoing critiques and getting videography criticism, but it's really hard to see the string. I really recommend these lights for filming: http://www.amazon.com/NEEWER%C2%AE-Dimmable-Digital-Camcorder-Panasonic/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=sr_1_federatedaps1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1411698079&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=led+light
I have one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Neewer%C2%AE-CN-160-camera-video-light/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1371588491&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=led+dslr
and it works wonders. Built-in dimmer, comes with colored plastic plates to change the color temp. I imagine with just a few of these places properly, a "moonlight" look could be achieved fairly easily. With spare batteries for each, you could easily get 4 of these in your budget.
I had a friend who would set up his Vive every time he played and would put the lighthouses on a table. Didn't seem to have issues.
I have mine on telescoping light stands that can be broken down easily. They work perfect. I will say that on a 970, FO4 can be a bit rough. I personally won't play it, but many people here swear that it's fine for them.
I'm looking to get into shooting more 'studio' portraits. I want to get a cheap continuous lighting set-up for my house, that way I can use it for filming and also for some portrait work with analog cameras. Do you think that continuous lighting would be enough? I shoot with pretty fast glass normally. I was looking to get the Neewer 700W Set because of the price and I have had good luck with their products in the past. Any suggestions or advice is appreciated!
Thank you! It was a lot of trial and error. It's this exact one from amazon. I got it about two weeks ago and really like it. Neewer 700W Professional... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017D7W57S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Take a picture however you would like. To add logos the software GIMP is a Photoshop like editing package that is free. For product photography itself people usually use a white background. I personally have the Amazon Basics Portable Photo Studio which works great.
The Amazon Basics photo box has served me very well. Packs up nicely too so it doesn't take up a lot of space when I'm not using it.
Lol here is the opposite of what you want. I did the poster board thing but got frustrated. I'm sure there are cheaper versions but I bought this. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01GIL6EU4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522161500&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=photo+booth&amp;psc=1
So much faster for me to take pictures now. Lots of room for big objects, no external lights to set up, great pictures, folds up easily if you need the space. Plus I use the voice control on my camera to take pictures. Now it's put in object, say shoot, turn object. Pictures are done in minutes.
Not at all! I’m using these ones . They’re very good; plenty of power, adjustable output, battery operated, adjustable color temp, hot shoe mount included, and easy interface. Downsides are you’ll need to buy a hotshot-c stand bracket if you want to use them on stands, they don’t come with any color gels, and they drink power. They only last ~30-45 minutes turned on at full power. But they are very strong at full power and they’re very compact, so it’s an understandable compromise. I recommend them.
This is the one i have. It all collapses down to a thin bag which is easily hidden in a closet or under the bed and the bulbs are top notch
Photography Photo Portrait Studio 600W Day Light Umbrella Continuous Lighting Kit by LimoStudio, LMS103 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005FHZ2SI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_o1P9ybEH9CPBC
Get yourself a box resizer and a good razor knife. Sometimes a half an ounce or less can make the difference between $5 shipping and $7+, and you will also save packaging material by not having to stuff half of a box with packing paper or bubble wrap.
Box Resizer tool On Amazon $16.99 - Free Shipping
DONT BUY BUBBLE WRAP LOCALLY AT THE STORE. GET IT ON AMAZON.
I almost never pay more than $27 for 700ft of bubblewrap. I used to spend more than that on 250ft when I was buying it at Lowe's or Staples.
Bubblewrap on Amazon for $25.88 with free shipping
Keep an eye out for something like this at thrift stores, you can find them ALL THE TIME, usually for around $5 - $7, and they are GREAT for mounting your rolls of bubble wrap on to save space and make dispensing it easy.
Clothes rack with bar
For taking photos, I use something like this setup. I place the backdrop stand behind a dresser and drape the fabric backdrop over the top of it and tuck it into my top drawer for a seamless background that I can also lean items against since it's tucked in.
Backdrop + Stand Kit $36.90 on Amazon. Free Shipping
Photography Lighting Kit $52.10 On Amazon - Free Shipping
I use this setup, which I bought last winter because I needed to be able to take photos when the natural light wasn't good. I recently bought [this backdrop support] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E6GRHBO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) and a white muslin backdrop.
I got this frame: https://www.amazon.com/LimoStudio-Adjustable-Background-Backdrop-AGG1112/dp/B00E6GRHBO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505848856&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=limostudio+photo+video+studio+10+ft+adjustable+muslin
You can put whatever sheet you want on it; I use these clips to do so: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004AZ38Z0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I used this tent when I first got my MK3S about 6 weeks ago and it worked beautifully. It was fully inside the tent, including the filament on top of course. It measures 60cmX60cm.
I just routed the power cable through the corner of the tent opening.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00GKGGICC/
Also, I don't love that light box. It provides light but it isn't a surface itself that looks good in photographs, hence the white fabric on the bottom. Have the light box sides in the background works...if the corners/edges aren't in the photos, because they look super tacky. I would be willing to buy another, bigger and better light box, but I doubt that make sense as I would still be left with my issue for bigger items like tops and dresses. This is that lightbox, just fyi: Neewer 24x24 inch/60x60 cm Photo... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GKGGICC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Thank you!! As for the light box I got one from Amazon, it's all white and it comes with different colored backdrops but I just went to Walmart and got a felt one. The material that come with the kit kinda suck lol
Neewer 24x24 inch/60x60 cm Photo Studio Shooting Tent Light Cube Diffusion Soft Box Kit with 4 Colors Backdrops (Red Dark Blue Black White) for Photography https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GKGGICC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gylDCbRY8VVMN
If you want portable this combination would probably work really well for you.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNZJLG4
Combined with:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012FTXOW4
I really like these, Valve linked them in the Vive Dev Kit's manual. Just use a clamp mount in combination with them. http://www.amazon.com/FastCap-Support-System--144-Inches-3HAND5/dp/B000067S12
The only downside with those is the ceiling height limitation. They're also more expensive.
Here is another picture of the sensor itself:
http://imgur.com/VJgtyLj
Here is the gear that I used:
Light Stands (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNZJLG4/) - These things are great. Very easy to setup, very small base (can be expanded if you want, but the sensors are light and they seem very stable).
Mini Ball Heads (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M07M9D4) - Make for easier adjustment and greater tilting.
USB Cables (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ - 10 ft, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S2FRE/ - 6 ft) - Passive were fine for the two sensors at that length.
Very happy to get these off my desk and higher up. I need to get my third sensor setup as well because the angle that they are pointing makes it tough to detect at the back of my play space (it's about 6 x 9).
Overall very happy with the setup and all the advice I received from this board. This is a really great community.
Here's what I got:
http://www.amazon.com/Neewer%C2%AE-Studio-Portrait-Product-Photography/dp/B00L4YR0BS?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00
and
http://www.amazon.com/VONOTO-Tripod-Camera-Camcorder-Bracket/dp/B00X5QO3B8?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01
There are many different versions by the same manufacturer for the stands, here is an example:
http://www.amazon.com/Neewer%C2%AE-Studio-Portrait-Product-Photography/dp/B00L4YR0BS/ref=sr_1_1?
The Ball Heads:
http://www.amazon.com/RetiCAM%C2%AE-Mini-Ball-Head-BHA10/dp/B00MFE2V88/ref=sr_1_4
I got this and haven't had any issues at all.
Neewer Set of Two 9 feet/260 centimeters Photo Studio Light Stands for HTC Vive VR, Video, Portrait, and Product Photography https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L4YR0BS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5Zboyb1ATTDT6
These are the stands and these are the swivels on top.
I have these:
9' light stands
An attachment that allows you to tilt the lighthouses to their required angle. There are cheaper versions of these, but this is the one I bought.
Speedlite holders: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JS3MINC
I own a couple of these and they are fantastic!
Gels: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00URG1C2C
No need to go with the expensive Rogue set. I love these by Selens.
Lighting gear bag:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LEE7J0U
This has been put through a bit of use and has held up great so far.
Lighting stands
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L4YR0BS/
Speedlites
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010XCEABO/
If you can do natural light, it is always best!
I got a set from amazon awhile back that I use ...
http://www.amazon.com/LimoStudio-Photography-Portrait-Umbrella-Continuous-Lighting/dp/B005FHZ2SI/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1413006810&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=photography+studio
It's pretty nice having more then one light.
It depends also on the videos u r making.
What's ur youtube name?
MIne is Shopaholic Not So Anonymous
Thank you! This photo was taken in natural light, but I also have these umbrella lamps , which honestly changed my world since I don’t have to stress about daylight anymore. For food, you generally want to light from one side to best highlight texture and to keep things from going flat. I position one lamp to the side of my food, and the second lamp on the same side but angled slightly behind the food. Then I position a reflector opposite the lamps to help brighten shadows. You’ll need to play a bit to see what works best for different foods and set-ups (I find white-on-white desserts the most challenging), but that’s the gist of it.
I’m a former art director so also adore post-processing. My favorite program is a Photoshop plugin called Topaz Labs. If you use their filters with a very light touch, they can really bring a ton of life back into photos.
I sell clothing on eBay and I am wondering if this idea of mine is possible. I have this lighting kit. I want to be able to use it like an external flash trigger. So, the lights only turn on when I actually take a picture.
Is this possible? Is there some kind of thing I can attach to the outlet to only turn the lights on when I press a button or something? Thanks for any help.
I got this, it seems like a good amount of light for the money. My backdrop, I just got piece of sign from home depot that was pretty white, and a bit rigid, but still flexible, taped it to a table, and up the wall. I was pretty impressed with the light, its probably not amazing, but the price was right.
I use lighting like this for my streams and I love it. It’s more bulky than a ring light for sure and I place them feet from my desk so it may not be viable but I deal with a lot of light sensitivity/photophobia so I’m unable to use a ring light. This may not be an option for you but if you have issues with light it’s perfect for being well lit without the pain.
Goal: Build indoor product photography lighting setup for <$200
Hey pros, I need your help badly.
Recently I have purchased a Nikon D5200, a mannequin, and really started to really step up my product selling game. As I have no large scale lighting or backdrop setup i'm forced to do this outside (See: Example 1 and Example 2 ).
Now these photos are great and all but I can't shoot them whenever I want or at any time that's convenient really. So i'm hoping to build an indoor setup.
Pieces I need:
I'm just all around overwhelmed, hopefully a pro can point me in the right direction.
Good morning!
I'm leaning toward a career in creative with an emphasis on food, beverage and dining. I'm a beginning photographer, and have a Canon T2i with standard 18-55mm lens. This lighting kit and Adobe CC.
I was in a bar one day and saw a professional taking pictures of some craft cocktails. He had his DSLR hooked to a laptop, and after every shot he took, the image would populate on the screen of his computer. For whatever reason, I didn't ask him any questions. Any idea what he was doing? and, if so, is that something I need to look in to?
The 3 factors I've noticed that make the biggest marginal improvement in a video are:
I love talking about this stuff, so if you have any more questions, let me know!
I haven't tried regular vanity lighting but this set from amazon is awesome for videos and makeup application. They are pretty cheap in comparison to other similar lighting. My friend has them and I recommended to a other redditor who loves them too! Hope this helps!
I am a hobbyist photographer. I was in this situation as well, I first ordered the cheapest shoot through umbrella and stand I could find (Neewer- $20). It was a total POS, the mount was cheap plastic and I returned it. I paid slightly more for a LimoStudio light kit+ 2 flash umbrella holders and am much happier with this purchase. The stands are light weight but fine for indoors and outdoors any stand should be weighted down. I bought this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FHZ2SI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
and 2 of these to adapt off camera flash
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DAW8688/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This is great for being on a budget, can plug in to your laptop or get a cube to plug into the wall outlet, and it clips where you want: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074C7KRW5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Edited to add: the one above also lets you adjust the light to yellow/blue/mixed light and has multiple, easy to switch to settings. (Can you tell I love it? lol)
This was My first light set and IMO totally worth it if it is/becomes in your budget. I've had it for several years without issues.:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FHZ2SI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FHZ2SI/ref=s9_simh_gw_p421_d0_i2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=center-2&amp;pf_rd_r=0RHZ1WW1HSSQFFPS6VVJ&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_p=1688200382&amp;pf_rd_i=507846
These are really cheap, you can find much higher end studio/photography/portrait lights. They can work to provide spot lighting. You still need good overhead lights and the higher the bulb wattage in the umbrella lights the better, same for the overhead really. Big shop lights can work as well, i.e. halogen, but they get hot, not ideal unless you're in a cooler climate.
Are you using Lightroom? Also, I'm not sure how much money is low budget but you might want to consider some lights like these. If any of that is too expensive, then you might have to create something. For instance, look around for pallet boards. Stores sometimes throw them away. Tear off those planks and nail them together to create a large-ish "wall" that you can take outside for natural lighting. Then you can use props accordingly. Does that make sense?
Hi! I know nothing about photography, but my sister is learning and playing around with it, and I wanted to get her some film & accessories for Christmas. She has a Minolta x700 that used to be my mother's. Any pointers on good things to get that would go with that? Thanks!
Edit: Decided to get her an entry-level umbrella lighting kit. Figured she'll get a lot of mileage out of playing with lighting.
This plus a white wall in my house. Adjust the levels in photoshop.
What about ordering a metal archway from Amazon? Or using a photo backdrop frame?
Unanswered question from the previous megathread
Author /u/Fehyt - (Permalink)
Hello!
I'm trying to build a small studio on a budget, since I don't really know that much about lighting and equipment, I'm shopping by best sellers/most reviews on Amazon, I will be doing portraits photos.
https://www.amazon.com/Photography-Portrait-Continuous-LimoStudio-LMS103/dp/B005FHZ2SI/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1511300862&amp;amp;sr=1-3&amp;amp;keywords=lighting+kit
And what about this for the stand?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E6GRHBO/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;amp;pf_rd_p=3341940462&amp;amp;pd_rd_wg=jm5yS&amp;amp;pf_rd_r=XZG63ZDMVDGWZAPMBNH4&amp;amp;pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-bottom-slot&amp;amp;pf_rd_t=301&amp;amp;pd_rd_i=B00E6GRHBO&amp;amp;pd_rd_w=JmGsI&amp;amp;pf_rd_i=lighting+kit&amp;amp;pd_rd_r=abee786f-075f-4975-acf1-144b8e613585&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1511300901&amp;amp;sr=1
Thanks a lot!
Weekends are my busiest streaming days since I normally run from 12pm-1am but I'll try to throw a guide together this weekend and post it on the sub.
But for you:
LimoStudio Green Screen Stand - $35
LimoStudio Green Screen - $18
LimoStudio Studio Light Umbrella Kit - $52
Alternatively, you could get the softboxes instead:
LimoStudios Light Softbox Kit - $77
What's interesting is Limo no longer sells the green screen and stand together without the lighting kit but I don't think that's a deal killer.
Alternatively, if you want the full setup in one go, with two umbrellas, two softboxes, four light stands, a green screen and stand, and a black and a blue backdrop. The only thing substantially different from this kit is that it leaves out the third, small light stand from the umbrella kit that is typically used to project light on the subject's back to create a "highlight" on the outline of the subject to help the chromakey separate from the subject and the green screen but I don't use this and don't have any issues.
LimoStudios Full Light and Backdrop Kit - $143
Also, quick question, when I make this guide do you think it would be helpful to provide light setup and position guides as well as chromakey guides?
I think what you are talking about is Photo Background stands that would allow the fabric to drape down.
http://www.amazon.com/LimoStudio-Adjustable-Background-Backdrop-AGG1112/dp/B00E6GRHBO/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449083607&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=green+screen+stand
Its hard to comment on the lighting (You will know by testing it out), You have to make sure your light will give you an even exposure for OBS to Key the green out properly. But most people like myself get additional lights to help with green screen
I hope this helps
I'm in an apartment, and my computer setup is in a corner, so I used a backdrop support with a green backdrop for a while, with muslin clamps. However, that was kind of a pain in the ass to setup/teardown each time, since I couldn't leave it up since it's right against my door. Now, I started using a WebAround (The "Big Shot", round one) that I picked up at Twitchcon. It works since I don't have a lot of space, and can just throw it on the back of my chair. (You gotta be careful you don't spin around too much if you don't want your desk stuff to become floor stuff. :P)
I'll take a picture of it when I'm home, but it works pretty well :) I've got a C922 webcam, so I have to crop it a bit so I don't exceed the area around my greenscreen :P
Here's a screenshot after chromakeying
a black or white poster board would work fine.
Or you could get one of those pop-up photobooths
Depends how serious you want to get.
If your low on cash and just want the box without the lights
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GKGGICC/ref=psdc_3444581_t2_B00TIAH33U
I found that even a very inexpensive tabletop photo kit with a lighting tent and using high-color-temp studio CFL bulbs makes a world of difference. Personally, I am using this one- and it was well worth the $50 investment.
http://www.amazon.com/Neewer%C2%AE-Shooting-Diffusion-Backdrops-Photography/dp/B00GKGGICC
A digital SLR camera (even a lower-end one) helps, rather than shooting with a smartphone, but the newest iPhones can definitely do the job in a pinch in my experience.
Quite a few actually aren't too bad. Yeah, you can tell they were taken with a phone or low resolution camera, but they do give plenty of detail.
Free route to improve photos: North facing light. Use light from the window/s facing North! It's the most diffused (in this hemisphere lol) and therefore best natural light that won't make things glow or end up as grainy (which outside of being a phone camera, is a lighting issue)... also wiping off the camera part with a soft cloth before shooting. Fingerprints, dust, stuff gets on the surface and can make things hazy and not focus right
Cheapest route: this will help with light diffusion. You will need two lights, one at each side, and cheap little desk lamps like this will do well and allow you to move the light angel as you need. These work well too, you know, whichever is cheaper and easier to get. I know places like Home Depot have the clamp lights, but I'm not sure the price, here I think the small ones are $8 which isn't bad.
Next cheapest: phone upgrade or point and shoot camera! Nothing fancy, not sure how you'd get for close ups because I haven't used a point and shoot in years. I know there's silly attachments for phones that you can add telephoto lenses to or probably macro if they have those now. I've only seen iphone stuff so far though, not sure if it'll work with others
Most expensive route: DSLR + macro lens (or filters, because filters are cheaper lol)
What was your total cost for the box? My girlfriend and i were going to build one for her father for Christmas. but when we saw how cheep they were (http://www.amazon.com/Neewer%C2%AE-Shooting-Diffusion-Backdrops-Photography/dp/B00GKGGICC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449720293&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=24%22+light+box) we just decided we would buy one. It seems like all that effort would only be worth it if you could make it for under $5 or if you just really needed a craft project.
Thanks! I'm sure you'll be fine with that. Probably has loads of features I wish my 10 year old one did lol. Theres a picture of a samurai trooper in the snow (with his gun) on my IG where I talk about upgrading my Camera. anything before that is probably on the old coolpix. Main tips I can give you;
I will say that I bought this light box and it was excellent value. I was going to build my own but after considering the trips to different stores for supplies and the time and effort that it would take, the $35 just made sense. I am lucky in that my husband already had a couple photography lights but really any bright lights should work! I sell vintage and antique items of varying sizes and materials and so far so good!
this is what I ordered. The chroma backgrounds are garbage though.
Thanks for the compliment! What mini did you just finish?
Yea I think I took the pictures too close though. You can REALLY see every little stroke, a bit harder to sell the illusion. Just for your reference I used 2 of these lamps (I got 2 for $25) and I used these bulbs and this light tent and a point a shoot camera I had laying around. It is like 16ish megapixels and full HD...
I use these stands:
Fovitec StudioPRO - 2x 7'6" Classic Light Stand Kit - [Classic][For Photo and Video][Includes Carrying Bag] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HNZJLG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_RqfDybS6P2MCN
...and these mounts:
EXMAX Tripod Mini Ball Head for DSLR Camera Camcorder Light Bracket Swivel 1/4" Screw https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012FTXOW4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_5rfDyb6KA2HPQ
They work extremely well for the lighthouses - you can't go wrong.
Absolutely! I'm gonna leave it here so anyone scrolling by can see it, but I'll also DM you and the other person who asked for it so you don't have to check back in the thread.
NEEWER 2-Pack 160 LED CN-160 Dimmable Ultra High Power Panel Digital Camera / Camcorder Video Light, LED Light for Canon, Nikon, Pentax, Panasonic,SONY, Samsung and Olympus Digital SLR Cameras https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07438JXM7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cIS2Ab7JHAYCT
(Despite some reviews claiming the battery life is poor or the output is low, I've had nothing but great experiences with these panels. With the batteries I use, I can do a surprising amount of shooting before the batteries die out. Not only that, I only have two batteries. So the fact that it is often enough for what I do is astonishing. Also, the output is just fine. In fact, bright enough at max output that it hurts your eyes without a softbox. With the softbox it is perfectly bright for most occasions. If you need brighter, look into the Neewer CN-216 or CN-304. Just be ready to warn people about their brightness.)
Neewer 5.9x6.7 inches/15x17 centimeters Camera Collapsible Diffuser Mini Softbox for CN-160, CN-126 and CN-216 LED Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OXCGA28/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CQS2AbBYSF5KE
(It has gone up a bit in price since I bought the two that I own, but it still offers excellent performance for the price. These are specifically made for the CN-160 panels. They diffuse light excellently, but at a minor cost. They are a bit of a pain in the ass to place onto the panel. At that price, though, you can't complain too much. You should be careful with them, as some have said that they don't take kindly to being handled roughly. My advise: take your time and do it carefully.)
Neewer 2 Pieces 2600mAh Li-ion Replacement Battery with Charger for Sony NPF550/570/530, Fit for Sony HandyCams, Neewer CN-160 CN-216 LED Light, Neewer 759 74K 760 Feelworld 759 74K 760 Field Monitor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XDC47YM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_gVS2Ab3RDJ319
(Outside of another tiny price increase, there's not much to say about these. They do the job incredibly well for what I put them through. However, NP F550 type batteries aren't meant to last incredibly long shoots. If you do long shoots, invest in a few more batteries and consoder using the larger capacity NP F750 type batteries.)
Fovitec StudioPRO - 2x 7'6" Classic Light Stand Kit - [Classic][For Photo and Video][Includes Carrying Bag] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HNZJLG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_j0S2AbBBPVA2J
(These light stands have served me well. But, as with all cheaper gear, they won't withstand care that is too rough. They've handled plenty with me, but I recommend you try to take care of them. Other than that, they're just light stands.)
Bonus:
Neewer 12 x 12-Inches Pack of 8 Transparent Color Correction Lighting Gel Filter in 8 Different Colors https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CCIKB5Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_f3S2Ab6ZCYTAD
(Some cheap color gels. Get the job done.)
Of course I must include: This is all cheaper starter gear. It is not meant to replace the more expensive light kits that are much more durable, do much more and produce much better results. But restriction breeds creativity. And a passionate, new content creator with a creative eye will make the best of what they have. If you are a starting filmmaker, videographer or photographer, by all means, use this setup. Once you're ready to move onto better, more costly equipment, though, don't hesitate.
Do you have room for something like this?
http://www.amazon.com/StudioPRO-Photography-Stands-Carrying-Studio/dp/B00HNZJLG4/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463843716&amp;sr=1-7&amp;keywords=light+tripod
They would take away from your available play space but as long as they are tall enough and you can swivel them to the right angle they would work.
Is there a black rubber piece on the top of the stands that comes off to reveal the 1/4 20 screw? Also, do the lights you have need to screw onto the stand?
These have the 1/4 20 screw on top and are cheap and good quality:
Fovitec - 1x 7'6" Photography & Video Light Stand Kit - [For Lights, Reflectors, & Modifiers][Collapsible][Spring Cushioned][Carrying Bag Included] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HNZJLG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_N4VGDbB5JWTTN
Well...hopefully you can place them on something high as the recommendations are what... 6ft?
To that I use StudioPRO Set of Two 7'6" Photography Light Stands with Carrying Bag for Photo & Video Studio https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HNZJLG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_n45fybQ4J0NYQ
And
EXMAX Tripod Mini Ball Head for DSLR Camera Camcorder Light Bracket Swivel 1/4" Screw https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012FTXOW4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_l55fybBWW0C6G
Which works extremely well as I've moved my stations multiple times. The providers of the stand send them in a carry bag (further protected in boxes within). Easy to setup. Minimal space impact
Very nice! These are the stands I got. The picture shows a very wide footprint but if you extend that bottom all the way out it actually creates a very narrow footprint (12" diameter)
Edit: They actually sell a "VR Edition" of these stands if you also want the tiny mounts.
Great thread and thanks for sharing! I'm ordering some of what you listed.. :)
Here is what I have already purchased and am using:
Mini tripods for the base stations as I haven't set them up permanently yet:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006I1KQQI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Wireless headset so I don't have to deal with the audio cable:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZC3S72I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Active HDMI cable as I'm running off my PC from the bedroom in my livingroom:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0186DNFLI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Active USB 2.0 cable again as I'm running off my PC from the bedroom in my livingroom:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PLLA9U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I also just ordered a set of 7' tripods for mounting the base stations:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNZJLG4/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Hi, I'm going to be building a new PC to use with the Vive, and wanted to get everyone's feedback on my build choices (I tried posting on /r/buildapc but hadn't gotten responses, and I'm interested specifically in Vive users too).
I'm salvaging the power supply, SSD, and CPU cooler from my existing build:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | $219.99 @ Newegg
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus 76.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | Purchased For $19.99
Thermal Compound | Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste | $5.65
Motherboard | Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $119.99 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill TridentZ Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $89.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Toshiba Q Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | Purchased For $179.99
Video Card | Asus GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Dual Series Video Card | $364.99
Case | Rosewill BlackHawk ATX Mid Tower Case | $39.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair Professional 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | Purchased For $139.99
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1220.57
| Mail-in rebates | -$40.00
| Total | $1180.57
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-11-24 08:34 EST-0500 |
Please let me know if everything looks good!
Also, for the Vive, I'm planning on purchasing light stands to hold the trackers. I'm currently planning on:
MDW 2 PACK Tripod Mini Ball Head for HTC VIVE Holder,Camera Camcorder
Are those good choices?
They come in pairs https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HNZJLG4/ref=sxts1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482768396&amp;sr=1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65
I'm just gonna leave this here so you can see there's a few other options.
Light stands
Bracing Pole
I think the bracing pole would still work for you if you can reach a nice flat spot for it to brace against, but it might slip if it's braced against an angle. Also for the mounts you can find that in the "Frequently bought together" section on both items I think.
Depending on the room ceiling height you might be able to use a smaller one that will do the job as well.
I recommend the Neewer. I bought two different pair.
The Neewer Set of Two 9 feet/260 centimeters Photo Studio Light Stands for HTC Vive VR, Video, Portrait, and Product Photography https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L4YR0BS
And Ravelli ALS Full 10' Air Cushioned Light Stand With Included Adaptor To Also Support 1/4" and 3/8" Photo Equipment and Heavy Duty Carry Bag https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TM600U
The Ravelli has a nice slow decend once the nut is loose. But it has a little play in the head. I haven't notice any jitter in VR but I suspect it might be a issue for some.
The Neewer are basic and light but sturdy and almost half the cost.
I use these with these. The tripods are currently out of stock, but cost me around $28 for the pair when I bought them. They work great.
Tripods or building support systems (combined with a clamp) seem to be the common solution to prevent drilling.
I've also mounted one of my base stations on top of a bookshelf using duct tape and this also works perfectly, though you'll need a shelf in the neighbourhood of your play area in order to be able to do this.
I wouldn't risk just taping them to a wall though. I've been contemplating to use a combination of industrial two-sided tape and nails (much thinner than a screw and it thus makes only very small holes in the wall) but decided to drill in the end, just to be safe.
That's really all you need though...taller than you. Or rather, taller than anybody's who going to be playing on your system.
So if you're 5 foot nothing, a 6 foot tripod would be fine. A 9 foot tripod should cover just about anybody. I got ones like these.
So far I've had perfect success with this light stand and this attachment. I extend the legs completely which then take up a relatively small area, and I secure the legs with the two strong rubber bands that came with the attachments. The footprint is a triangle of about 1' (30.48 cm) per side.
Look here https://www.amazon.com/Neewer%C2%AE-Studio-Portrait-Product-Photography/dp/B00L4YR0BS/ref=pd_bxgy_421_img_2?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=08WDQ8G6BKT9YFY19H1E
Tripod light stands from Amazon that you can find for around $30 a pair. That coupled with $5.00/pair adjustable ball and socket type mounts that allow the lightboxes to be titled. See below.
These:
Neewer® Set of Two 9 feet (260CM) Photo Studio Light Stands for Video, Portrait, and Product Photography https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L4YR0BS
And these:
EXMAX Tripod Mini Ball Head for DSLR Camera Camcorder Light Bracket Swivel 1/4" Screw https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012FTXOW4
Two problems I see with this setup. First, you won't get the full 7 feet of height out of those, reducing the tracked height. While you might not be 6 foot or higher, think about if you're standing and whatever game/application wants you to reach up above you. These stands have a 9 foot extendable bar and are only a couple of bucks more expensive. That ball head bracket will also work for that stand.
Another thing I was worried about is the fact that at the end of the fairly long (and fairly light) pole, the lighthouse stations spin around; so even with a stable setup if you bump it, it might tip over. I picked up a couple of tripod sandbag holders and constructed a couple of cheap 10-pound weights using sand poured into gallon sized ziplock bags duct taped up then added a couple of layers of heavy-duty trash bag with more duct tape to ensure 2-3 layers of insurance should the bag break.
Yeah I hope it's not an issue either. Looking at your link though that is for a single stand. You should get this one instead. Same company but two are included.
Edit: also get two of these if you do not want the pink ones linked above.
I looked into this the other day too and yes the lighthouse has a standard tripod screw underneath and comes with small wallbrackets with a swivel ball on it.
I bought http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00L4YR0BS/ref=pe_385721_124735741_TE_item and 2 of these just incase as they are cheap http://www.amazon.co.uk/MyArmor-Universial-Threaded-Microphone-Motorcycles-Black/dp/B01A6KJDFG?ie=UTF8&amp;ref_=pe_1909131_77697001_tnp_email_TE_AMZLdp_1
http://uploadvr.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/Early-Lighthouse-System1.jpg is the mount that comes with the Vive (bear in mind this image is very old so the included brackets will be a bit better. I did see an image the other day of the new one in an unpacking review but cant find it now, sorry)
I would say more space is better! But,
Get this
And this
You're welcome :)
You can mount them on the wall at home if you want. Then when you want to take them to work just unscrew the lighthouse from the base, leaving the base on the wall.
Then just pick up something like these and take them wherever!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L4YR0BS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_DGh2wbJ6MYXR9
https://www.amazon.com/Pixnor-Tripod-Camera-Camcorder-Bracket/dp/B01EFI8LOO/ref=pd_sim_421_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B01EFI8LOO&amp;pd_rd_r=1H9RMK8F8HK7ZPTHTYPH&amp;pd_rd_w=4jcGX&amp;pd_rd_wg=u8U6z&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=1H9RMK8F8HK7ZPTHTYPH
I bought some this week. Let me find what I have.
Edit:
Neewer Set of Two 9 feet/260 centimeters Photo Studio Light Stands for HTC Vive VR, Video, Portrait, and Product Photography https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L4YR0BS
Eggsnow 2PCS 1/4" Mini Tripod Ball Head Bracket Holder Mount Ballhead for DSLR Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ESJ7754
The stands are supposed to arrive tomorrow so I'll finally do the setup. (Controllers are plugged in at my desk though.)
I use light stands. Here's mine:
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-centimeters-Portrait-Product-Photography/dp/B00L4YR0BS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480128598&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=light+stands+vive
They go up to 9 ft and have very little footprint
I bought THESE (they come as a pair), along with 2 of THESE (sold invidually) and they work great, super-sturdy.
I bought them back when the Vive first came out so there might be cheaper solutions out there now though.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L4YR0BS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I got them when there were on sale for $29. They are $36 now, still not bad though.
Just bought some yesterday. Went with the:
Neewer® Set of Two 9 feet (260CM) Photo Studio Light Stands ($28)
and
Neewer Black 1/4" Screw Mount 360 Swivel Mini Ball Head (Qty 2, $12.50)
Someone has already mentioned the storage but I recommend one of these stands - It holds everything and looks good, you can still charge the wands too whilst they are resting in the stand.
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If you are not confident in drilling holds in the wall and mounting the sensors you can always buy some tripods (I got a set of 2 that extend to 7ft) and they also allow for easy configuration of finding the right sensors set ups.
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I have these combined with these adjustable brackets for full fluid setting up.
Dug through my Amazon list from last year. Here is what I got:
Stands: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L4YR0BS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Head attachments: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017N6Y08Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Those worked great for me. Only downside is that the stands don't really collapse too much if you ever want to put them away.
How are these at absorbing vibration? I actually own a few Manfrotto goosenecks that I use with Superclamps for photography, but I felt they weren't stable enough to prevent vibrations (nearby people walking on bouncy office floors, etc.) from causing the Vive base stations to wobble a little.
Monopods would severely limit your mobility (or, moreso your range of motion) and for things like concerts, subject movement (which a monopod will not help with) will be a much bigger problem than unstable handholding technique. "Nighttime events" may be the same way. I never shoot slower than 1/60 for people, because then their hands (if they're in the shot) or their facial expressions get blurry, purely because they're moving. However, this would be a time where I would recommend getting a cheap(ish) monopod (somewhere between Wal-Mart and Manfrotto) and testing it out.
I asked about using a monopod as a pole to mount a remote camera onto, and someone said that monopods are not rated for their ability to hold weight sideways/not straight up and down. I would recommend getting a stiff length of tubing (PVC or metal) and a Manfrotto Super Clamp (Super Clamp clamps onto the pole of your choice, camera/ballhead screws onto Super Clamp). If you want to mount a ballhead on the Super Clamp (as opposed to screwing your camera in directly), you'll need this screw instead.
Pair it with a super clamp and you're set to go.
For this video we are using a single articulated arm attatched to a table using this clamp. it works, but you can see the shaking of the table pretty easily.
A super clamp with a stud (the gold pin shown in the pic) attached to a horizontal bar above the table will do the trick.
A rain sleeve and an umbrella do it for me. I've also superclamped a camera to the umbrella to aid with holding it (too few hands).
Would these work for mounting?
http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Photography-Light-Stands-Cases/dp/B001WB02Z4
http://www.amazon.com/EXMAX-Tripod-Camera-Camcorder-Bracket/dp/B012FTXOW4
I used the tape that I used to hang my curtains (much heavier than the vive sensors), but it's really hard to get it to feel secure because of the small amount you can actually apply to both the sensor and the wall while it's plugged in. My final solution has been these: https://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Photography-Light-Stands-Cases/dp/B001WB02Z4
They are definitely high enough, and if you buy the little ball adjuster thing that is the most commonly purchased item with those stands you'll be set. They are safe and secure and ive never had a tracking (or line of site between the two sensors) issue like I was having using the curtain tape.
Im using stand similar to these for the lighthouses.
These clips are also solid if you have something appropriate to clip them to.
Grats dude!
These look more then sufficient to hold the lighthouses.
http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Photography-Light-Stands-Cases/dp/B001WB02Z4
http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Photography-Light-Stands-Cases/dp/B001WB02Z4?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
http://www.amazon.com/Eggsnow-Tripod-Bracket-Holder-Ballhead/dp/B00L23XN9O?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
I recently purchased Amazon Basics Lighting Stands to mount the lighthouses on for my Vive and it has really made my experience better. Previously I was limited to a 6'x6' space just barely big enough for room scale, and had difficulties keeping track of my boundaries (I punched the back of my TV prompting the light stand purchase). It's so much nicer to be able to change the position of the lighthouses, and I can now play in a larger space and put everything away when I'm done with it.
I cannot wait until the wireless adapter comes out, I have a large 10'x10' space in my apartment just too far from my PC to use now, it's going to be perfect once the wireless comes out.
Anyone who has a difficult space for mounting the lighthouses or wants more freedom with their setup I really recommend the light stands!
Edit:
CowboyStudio Set of Two 7 feet Photography Light Stands with Cases https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001WB02Z4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_17wvyb1KS6JDT
I believe these are the ones I got, I didn't want to like from Amazon prime now as that may not be available to everyone.
Edit 2: just checked those linked above are the ones I have! I will say the base is somewhat bulky, I'm sure if you wanted to spend a little more you could get some nicer ones. But the general idea of the lighting stands is what I'm plugging rather than that specific product. I love the ones I have and won't be changing them out anytime soon, but if you're concerned about the base width and everything it couldn't hurt to shop around.
you might prefer something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Photography-Light-Stands-Cases/dp/B001WB02Z4/ref=sr_1_6?s=photo&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480977230&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=light+stand
goes to 7ft, smaller footprint, and you get a matching set for about the same price.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001WB02Z4
Hi /u/misdy - welcome to /r/videography! I am a big fan of ring lights because you only need one to get nice, even light.
With two or three, it looks like you have a whole studio full of lights.
I started out with a [$120 AC powered Ring Light] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B1V6QAU/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00B1V6QAU&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=battleforthew-20), which I bought after I saw this review: http://www.lafcpug.org/reviews/review_diva_ring.html
This is a fabulous light, but I needed a light that was battery powered and portable - so I bought a small, but powerful [$199 F&V R-300 Ring Light] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AY0J4OY/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00AY0J4OY&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=battleforthew-20) with a [$25 Milk Diffusion Filter] (http://www.adorama.com/FVMWDR300.html?KBID=66297).
Here is what the lights look like on a [$28 pair of light stands] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001WB02Z4/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B001WB02Z4&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=battleforthew-20): https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-jrqsQtPN3TU/U1sjz3-jwnI/AAAAAAAAIt4/k2WveyQeO4o/w724-h543-no/P1120732.JPG
The R-300 runs on either a 12V AC adapter or a [$10 Sony camcorder battery] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007Q9PWQ/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B0007Q9PWQ&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=battleforthew-20). I bought a couple of them along with a [$19 dual battery charger] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&amp;pub=5575034783&amp;toolid=10001&amp;campid=5337235943&amp;customid=&amp;icep_item=321347920244&amp;ipn=psmain&amp;icep_vectorid=229466&amp;kwid=902099&amp;mtid=824&amp;kw=lg).
You can also buy a [$40 rail mount] (http://www.adorama.com/FV15RMR300.html?KBID=66297) for it and put it on a set of 15mm rails. This light does a great job in the field as well as in the studio.
Here it is on my camera: https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-rhqiHavOnGM/U1J4paO2vRI/AAAAAAAAIrk/eW1mhniD0gY/w724-h543-no/P1120708.JPG
Two F&V lights, two stands, a couple of milk filters, two batteries and a dual charger and you'll have a pair of cool, powerful and compact portable lights that will fit into very small spaces - all for about $500.
Hope this is helpful!
Bill
I needed the exact same thing. This is what I went with from amazon. They work great. One is the set of the tripods and the other is the mini ball head you will need for each lighthouse with the tripod.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012FTXOW4/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001WB02Z4/
I would also recommend extending the triple cable an extra 10 feet. You won't be able to keep the cable and HMD in the box after adding the cables, but it doesn't get tangled as easy and just works better when having other people try it for the first time.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FT9VW0O/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0008JHB14/
These and this work quite well, if you want something easier to move around.
I just purchased 5 triggers, 2 stands, 2 umbrella mounts, and 2 Brollyboxes they look like the softlighter mentioned below. I spent about 145 total. I played with it earlier today these are straight out of the camera, if that isn't obvious hahaha.
Hey this is all "Free super saver shipping" because shipping sucks.
So your saying something like this?
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B001WB02Z4?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
Its just I don't have much space and wouldn't those take more space than a bar?
You can buy LED lights if you aren't interested in strobes, but you never know.. maybe you'll really take off! Before I got my strobes, I used these from Promaster for lighting smaller areas and they worked like a charm (keep in mind they can get a little hot - don't cook the baby!). But if you're interested in something a little more professional:
The strobe
I personally use a single AlienBee B800. You may be able to photograph newborns with a B400 (a bit more affordable, but pumps out a little less light) version since it won't require you to light many large areas.
The modifier
Then you'll need a modifier to put on it so you can spread that light around the set cleanly. I prefer to go with Fotodiox products, as they are cheap and affective. I own the Fotodiox 36" Octabox.
Then of course, you'll need decent light stand to put them on.
Depending on how you position your strobe, you may also want to get a little reflector disc so that you can bounce light into areas that are too shadowy in your shot. You can also just do this with a regular ol' white foamcore board.
If you can afford it, other than the case sucking - this would work great. Gives you options for silver, white, gold, black or shoot through white. I have had mine for a couple years, the case/bag sucks, but it works great.
http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-43-Inch-Collapsible-Multi-Disc-Reflector/dp/B002ZIMEMW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1398661374&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=reflector
Just had my first paid shoot last night with some old high school friends. I'm not too psyched with how it ended up whatsoever, but they like the pictures and I only charged $20 for the whole thing.
Anyways, I'm pretty happy with my compliment of lenses and I'm looking to start investing in some more auxiliary gear.
Should I get this 43'' reflector, or will the 24'' get the job done for portrait shots?
Will this wireless remote get the job done?
Lastly, next time I get paid I'm going to invest in a speedlight. What are some decent entry-level ones?
Edit: My bad, Canon Rebel t3i
I have 2 pieces of advice that most new photographers tend to ignore (they usually worry too much about camera gear instead.)
Your friend has a clothing brand and you should think of how it should be portrayed. If its streetwear, then shoot in urban situations. if its bikinis, then the beach is perfect, etc. Once you have an idea of how you want to portray the clothes, think of which lighting situations would match it, such as hard lighting for a more dramatic look, or sunset for the golden hour look. Most of the time, the client will know what they want. Ask your friend to make a mood board, which is basically a collection of photos of how he wants the lookbook to look like.
Get things ready before the shoot (this can be weeks to days, to hours before the shoot depending how much work needs to be done). This includes location scouting, weather prepping, lighting testing, equipment packing, hair and make up, posing references, props, etc. Have EVERYTHING ready almost to the point that you can start shooting right away once you get to the studio/location. If you are shooting in a studio, have the lights, backdrop, props, anything else you need, be ready. Don't waste time you could be shooting the model/product when everyone is ready but you aren't. If you are shooting on location, be prepared for the weather. Bring a 5-in-1 reflector if you want to have options on controlling light, such as a scrim/shade/silver/gold reflector. I can't get into any more details since every shooting situation is different which requires different tools, if you do know what situation you will be in and what you're going to shoot, then I might be able to tell you what you need.
TL;DR
DO NOT SHOOT BLINDLY. Prep everything and plan for the shoot. If you know what to shoot and how to shoot it, you will have a much better and easier time getting the shots you need. And it will show in the end product.
Hey, I'll try and answer as best I can, but others may have better or more accurate descriptions than me.
But as for what makes a camera better? I would say control. The more functions you can control on a camera, the better. This is why DSLR filmmaking is so popular currently, because they have access to functions that many cameras don't have. Focus, Aperture, White Balance, Lens choices, etc. Being able to access all of these gives you more options as a filmmaker, which is what we all want, creative freedom, we all hate when we are limited by technology.
Now many people talk about shooting Film vs Digital, or whether or not you are recording in RAW format for digital. A lot of this has to do with preference vs quality of camera.
So I would say that a camera that is easy to control is the best. Hopefully I mostly answered that, if you want a more specific answer, just let me know and I'll try my best, otherwise hopefully someone else jumps back in here and describes it better.
I would recommend a small light kit, you can spend as much as you want on film lights, but don't feel ashamed to buy a few lights from Lowes or Home Depot. Lighting is a very important piece to making movies. I would also look into getting some reflectors, there are some really cheap ones on Amazon. I have found these to be helpful when shooting outdoors, since lower end lights are almost unnoticeable in the sun.
Here is the one that many early filmmakers ignore, Audio. Grab a nice microphone and get some good sound with your video. The Rode NTG 2 is a pretty good mike. It's cheaper while still getting good sound. The ME 66 is a bit more expensive, but it's a hotter mike and gets better sound. Both are really good options. To go with your mike, if you have a little extra spending money, I would completely advise getting a Blimp. This Rode Blimp is great! If you want to shoot outdoors in the wind at all, this is the best option, otherwise you may have to re-record all the voice over in post.
~
This post is getting a little long here, so I'll throw a summary at the end with a couple more items.
Camera: Get a Camera, Lenses, Case, Tripod.
Lighting: Get a couple Lamps, Reflectors, Filters, Light Stands.
Audio: Get a Microphone, Boom, Blimp, XLR Cable, Recording Device, Headphones.
There is always more, but these would be a good starting point. Not everything I recommended is needed to get started though.
I carry this 5 in 1 deflector / diffuser thing. Its definitely useful.
I often hold it myself with 1 hand or have the model hold it. As a diffuser its a bit more difficult but I sometimes use that as a diffuser for my flash. Good thing to have in your kit and it's relatively light and costs almost nothinf. It sits in the front pocket of my camera backpack.
I would ask for gift cards, i.e. Amazon and B&H, or money. You can save these up and get nicer equipment or build your own rigs. But a nice Tripod can make a huge difference. But honestly, it all depends on what you film. Such as me, I often shoot on locations so lenses with a faster aperture do more than a set of studio lights. Here are my recommendations for basic stuff to ask for Christmas:
CN-160 LEDs - about $30 (http://www.amazon.com/NEEWER%C2%AE-Dimmable-Digital-Camcorder-Panasonic/dp/B004TJ6JH6/) and of course some NP-F970 Batteries go along well for about another $22 (http://www.amazon.com/Halcyon-Replacement-NEX-EA50UH-DCR-VX2100-HDR-FX1000/dp/B008X9L6ZS/)
Extra batteries - The off-brand batteries work well. I have two and they are great
Extra Memory Cards - I highly reccommend Lexar as my SanDisks don't work insanely well anymore.
Stabilizer Rigs - The Mantis Rig Is A Great Rig for everything (especially starting) and is only $33 (http://www.amazon.com/Mantis-Folding-Rig-Fotodiox-Transformable/dp/B00AUKBV7G) Or if you want to get a glidecam-style I suggest the Laing P-4S stabilizer which is like $275 and includes a bag and weights (http://www.amazon.com/Quick-Release-Plate-Laing-Stabilizer/dp/B00G3TCYQK/)
And My Best Piece of Lighting Equipment - A Reflector which you can get for like $20. (http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-43-Inch-Collapsible-Multi-Disc-Reflector/dp/B002ZIMEMW/) There's plenty of different sizes, too.
Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002ZIMEMW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mSc4CbNSK5KMC
If you have a tripod you can then use it to reflect the light right onto your subject so you can have the light source behind them but still have them lit well!
Seems like a decent kit, a tad expensive maybe for what you actually get though, but I'd invest in some grippage either way so you can shape the light. While softboxes do provide nice large, soft sources, they result in a lot of spill. Maybe get a couple sets of these and rig them with these if you can with extra stands. If you can get your hands on some duvetyne and blackwrap you could also probably make some DIY solid flags and barn doors. Basically, to make it look good, you'll want to sculpt the light, not just turn them on and point them in the right direction.
If you do end up using that kit, also be weary of using the provided fluorescent globes as they'll probably have a green shift to them. Easy to correct this if they're your only light source with a FLT filter for your lens but if you're going to be competing with daylight you should have some minus/plus green gel on hand to match them. As far as I know, those kinds of fluorescent globes can't be dimmed (if they are they start flickering) so if you want to be able to control the light output that way you should use incandescent (if you can find any) or halogen globes, some hand squeezers (dimmers) and some CTB/CTO gel in various strengths.
Zoom isnt a bad investment, but you might be right. Honestly, don't go gear nuts. Even with the advice i gave above which i think is a way to spend two grand thats not what id do. Id use what I already owned and find some other people and beg borrow and steal as much as i could. Spend that 2 grand on a actual movie, and try and put every dollar on the screen.
I totally get the concept of wanting to have gear for multiple shoots. But I think you will learn a lot from just jumping right in. Shoot a short for 50 bucks with your friends over a weekend. then shoot another for a hundred bucks, and build on that. After that use all you learned with the rest of the dough to make something longer. I know it sounds crazy, but you can do it if you budget and write the script around things you already own and have access to.
More than anything a project you believe in will last longer than any piece of gear.
But if you are dying to buy something start with some simple paper lanterns mixed with a reflector you can get some good looking stuff, great soft light, and you learn some basic lighting skills. You will still need a few stands. But you can get away with a lot with these because they are light. Use practical lamps and natural light to fill out your scenes.
http://www.amazon.com/Hanging-Lantern-Cord-Off-Switch/dp/B007RPRYF0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452219709&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=china+balls
http://www.amazon.com/White-Chinese-Japanese-Lantern-Diameter/dp/B0026XVQ3Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452219709&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=china+balls
http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-43-inch-Collapsible-Multi-Disc-Reflector/dp/B002ZIMEMW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452219787&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=reflector
Requiem for a Dream!
It is truly a great film- amazing cinematography, haunting score, superb character development and connection. It definitely can be depressing, but I think the film's themes about loss, desperation, and unfulfilled dreams are just so poignant.
I really could go on and on and on about this film- and I actually have in other contests that ask about favorite movies, hehe. But I won't bore you this time! ;)
Seriously though, if you haven't seen this movie yet. Watch it. Watch it right now! =D
Here's my $5 item: some China Glaze nail polish
And here's my $20 item: These awesome reflectors! I'm a newbie photographer, and these reflectors would help me out so much with the work I'm trying to become skilled at. =D
Thank you so much for hosting this contest, by the way! As amazing as it would be to gift a $20 item to someone, I feel like it's really fun to spread the wealth! My vote is for four $5 gifts! Thanks again! =)
Go out a day or two beforehand (or even a couple hours before the shoot) and take some test shots on a stand-in subject. Find your exposure and write down your settings, position, etc. This way they're working on YOUR schedule and you can concentrate on a nice pose instead of the exposure.
I agree, shoot in aperture priority.
If you have shade (tree or a big translucent disk) and another reflector you'll be golden. Otherwise, maybe a dialed down flash could help fill in shadows.
Terrible translation on my part but I think the proper English term is reflector. Something like this.
It's great for the following (and I quote from their site):
1 Translucent surface for softening
2 Silver for the contrast you look for
3 Gold for warm tone and health
4 White to fill the shadow
5 Black to block out stray light
It's probably one of the most versatile products you can buy for such little money. Translucent is great for days with hard edged shadows. Gold gives you sunshine. Black can create shadows when there are none. (removing light is also shaping light)
Can do nothing but recommend it to you
if you want to go the cheap manual route:
get these remote speedlite triggers
you can buy more of the receivers, just set them all to the same code.
get one of these for every receiver you have, or any flash set to manual
and get as many stands as you need for each speedlite/receiver combo. the sky is the limit.
also you'll need a crap ton of double and triple a batteries.
For something moveable:
http://www.amazon.com/FastCap-Support-System--144-Inches-3HAND5/dp/B000067S12
They are sturdy and have a very low profile compared to a tripod. You can then use duct clamps to attach the lighthouse mount or buy a camera mount that wraps on poles
if that's too much, just some cheap high light tripod.
http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Aluminum-Tripod-Stands-Softboxes-6-23/dp/B003I6ENXS/
but they'll take like a foot of your play area each
if it's permanent, just use the mounts that are (probably) included - still not confirmed but they were with Pre and I don't see why they wouldn't be with consumer version.
Awesome post! Thank you! Could you recommend a bag for my tripods? I'd like to carry them with this kit when needed.
Your brother should buy 2 sets of these. Up to 8' high and works great. Only about $50 total.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003PEUA30/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012FTXOW4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This is getting a little bit silly now. Why are people making DIY things when it probably costs as much as buying the real thing.
I've used these for years. They work great. I upgraded two of the bulbs to these for more brightness.
No problem at all!
Here are some I found:
Basics ( 2 main stands and a mini one, umbrellas, bulbs, everything you need )
http://www.amazon.com/Cowboystudio-Photography-Portrait-Continuous-Umbrellas/dp/B003WLY24O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1373804988&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=studio+lighting
If you're needing soft boxes:
http://www.amazon.com/Fancierstudio-Digital-Continuous-Softbox-Lighting/dp/B0050K3DW2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1373805007&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=studio+lighting
I have a kind of average tripod (in the market for a better one) and a DSLR camera. I also just recently bought a light kit from Amazon which I think is helping the photo quality a lot. So I turn the camera to face me, make sure it's on auto-focus and start snapping away. I try to change the angle of my face slightly for each shot so I can get a good variety, because sometimes the liner looks a bit awkward from a certain angle, etc. Generally I think it looks best when the camera is angle down towards me just a tad. I try not to look at the camera from too far out of the corner of my eye because I think it looks creepy. For those "looking in the distance" shots I choose a point just to the right and above the camera itself; looking too far beyond that your eyes looks strained. Other than that, it's kind of trial and error for me every time!
Usually if you tap in the lower left corner of the video on the YouTube logo, it’ll open YouTube. But here’s a link to the light: NEEWER 160 LED https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_L12KAbE6MT3ZZ
I've been using these Neewer CN-160 LEDs recently, and they're quite impressive for the price! Runs on AA or Sony NP batteries. I have mostly used them indoors - they're probably no match for direct sunlight, but should be able to do something in the shade.
It's not, I promise.
LED flashlight for your actor - $8
Basic bouncecard to bounce the flashlight light into your actors face - $13
LED battery powered light to illuminate your foreground or background - $44, including a battery and charger
There you go. Basic lights for a basic forest scene for $65. Add 1/2 CTB gel to your LED light to simulate some moonlight. It can absolutely be done, just get creative.
mine's an early kickstarter model. generally having more light gives better hi-speed results but the camera's surprisingly sensitive - some of the shots were done with a few 900lux led lights i got off amazon. not much processing for daytime shots, mostly just balancing levels to bring out details in blacks and boosting saturation, nighttime takes a bit more caressing but nothing too taxing...
Buy one of THESE, then run around the bike doing a long exposure. It's called lightpainting.
Mine just showed up today! I'm excited to try it out.
Have you considered some of those portable LED floodlamps? They only cost about $50 bucks and one of my photographer friends swears by them.
I think this is the model he uses:
http://www.amazon.com/LED-CN-160-Dimmable-Camcorder-Panasonic/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1325027836&amp;sr=8-2
Lighting is super important, but don't forget about sound! People are much more likely to forgive a terrible image than they are sound.
The sensor in the t3i is the same as the t2i (but not the t1i, which can only do 20fps 1080). So if you can find a t2i for cheaper, do that. For lighting, you can get some pretty cheap but highly effective LED panels (see [here] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Dimmable-Digital-Camcorder-Panasonic-Samsung/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1393882490&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=LED+Light+panel)) that will allow you to buy some decent audio equipment.
I'd honestly still go to the pros for this one, or at least cheap ambitious student film makers. Local high schoolers even. As a working freelancer/producer, I've had inquiries for "DIY"/mobile studios for clients to setup up themselves and they've botched every single one of them.
If your clients are seriously that hellbent on saving costs and time, then I like Hybrid's suggestions for tech. On top of that, I would add an LED panel for keylighting and this handy tutorial by Realm Pictures for setup.
But honestly, from my experience, this much knowledge/tech will baffle the non-savvy so really feel your way out on this and try to steer them towards finding help. Hopefully a solution is found! GL!
So, just from some googling it looks like you could get some decent, dimmable panels for well within your budget.
Here, here. and here.
Search term: "dimmable battery powered LED panel".
Good shooting!
Im new to the game as well, but so far these are the things I have picked up for my G6:
first, i bought a G6 kit that came with some handy stuff
I have also purchased
A slightly better tripod
A flood light
Battery pack for said light
Variable ND Fader for filming out doors
Rode shotgun Mic
Zoom H1
Lav mic to go with the H1
Headphones to listen for levels
Triple Mount Hot Shoe
Backpack to hold everything
This is just a fun lens, and its cheap the 50mm means its a 100mm equivelent, so its for really tight portraits, but the low aperture is good for low/light and for a very shallow field depth. When I am able to use it, this lens produces the most popular results when i post them online.
new strap cause the one that comes with the G6 sucks!
What i want to get:
A bigger zoom lens I am mostly interested in videography(weddings etc), and this would be good for back of the house shots)
The M 3/4's "nifty fifty"
No problem dude.
So first off I just want to go against your thought on only using an iPhone until you can get a professional camera. I really do think that you need the DSLR step in between the iPhone and the professional camera for many factors. Even though the app that you are using is very impressive, it still cannot match a DSLR. You even said it yourself, the camera sensor is way too small to use in anything but exceptional light. Secondly being able to tell the story not just the angle you have the camera, but in the lens choice is something that is awesome to do. With a single change in a lens you can make someone who is in an ally look like they are claustrophobic and trapped, to someone being alone in a large amount of space. So using lenses are a huge help in telling the story you want and being able to know that before using a professional camera is huge. I also want to point out one of the big and main differences why someone would want a professional cinematic camera. One of the main reasons is to have the capability to shoot in RAW which allows for awesome post production. I've used RAW many times before and it is awesome to adjust almost every aspect of the shot. Here is the thing though, you almost really don't need that unless you are really going to push the camera in post, or if you are doing a movie. Even without RAW a DSLR or mirrorless camera can achieve professional looking video without breaking the bank. Here a great video on professionals comparing 8bit vs 10bit which is essentially the difference between cinema cameras and mirrorless ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AekKwgvS5K0 ). This is a very interesting video and really shows how good mirrorless cameras are, and the small gap between the two. I know it's fun to say that you filmed a whole film on an iPhone. I've also used an iPhone and android phones to film really good looking video, but I knew what it can and can't do because I had used dslr and professional cameras. Without the knowledge I had there would've been wild problems that I couldn't fix in post, and even with all of my knowledge I had to change how I did things to get everything right. It was a great experience, but there is a time and place for everything.
Okay not that is out of the way I'll tackle the audio questions you had. So when I said that you can eliminate background noise while recording it wasn't necessarily in a software, rather in what you are doing while filming. The number one thing that you need to do is get the mic as close to the actor as possible. By doing this it eliminates most factors so you can have more flexibility in post. Secondly it is a good idea to have someone dedicated to being the audio engineer. Having to do both is exhausting and results in lukewarm audio and video. Third you need to get an app or some external device that allows for adjusting the gain. There should be multiple apps that can do this, however I would recommend a pre-amp. Here is a link to a great pre-amp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LBS52YI/ref=psdc_11974581_t3_B007534LFK . It is a great deal for what it is, but it is still pretty pricey if you don't have much money or much income at all. This is a great tool because it will allow for any audio recorder, phone, or camera to accept xlr, quater inch, and normal aux connections and even providing two. You can also adjust the volume it is putting out so you can more easily adjust on the fly. Getting the right levels is essential for getting good audio in post. The next thing you can do is have some portable sound proofing. There are audio blankets that do a great job, but they are $60 for one. Not to say it isn't worth it, but it's a bit much if it's between getting that and a new mic. So instead I recommend getting a moving blanket. It isn't perfect, but you can get a huge amount of them for cheap and they do almost as good as the audio blanket. The way can use this is to cover up whatever is making the noise if you can. If you can't you can make a wall out of the blankets with light stands, or pretty much whatever you can attach them to. This will not only reduce echos from the actor, but it will also greatly reduce the amount of ambient noise that the mic is picking up. Seriously pick up some moving blankets, they are a great tool not just for audio, but you can use them to block out light, and actually move stuff. They are a really awesome tool. So by doing all of this it should reduce the amount of ambient noise that the mic picks up. Also for good shotgun mics, I am not a great resource for this but I do know a few good mics. Here are two that I know are good and that others say good things about. https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Advanced-Broadcast-Microphone-accessories/dp/B00N39J0LU/ref=sr_1_4?s=musical-instruments&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503160247&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=shotgun+mic https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR-6550-Condenser-Shotgun-Microphone/dp/B002GYPS3M/ref=sr_1_5?s=musical-instruments&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503160247&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=shotgun+mic . If you want to know more there are a large amount of articles on good mics for cheap.
Next I just want to quickly mention that you should invest in some lights. No matter what it is a good idea to have them. Here is a link to a great budget light, https://www.amazon.com/Dimmable-Digital-Camcorder-Panasonic-Samsung/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503160499&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=neewer+light . It isn't the most exiting thing to buy, but it is well worth your money.
For the acting questions, it is hard to put to words what I experience. It's more of an instinct, and is different in every situation . However I know I would not be happy with that answer, so here is a link to an article that I think has some really good points. http://www.masteringfilm.com/tips-for-directing-actors/ . This isn't the guide lines for what you can do, but this is just a starting point for what you can do to direct actors better. There are many articles out there so pick and choose what you want. My only piece of advice that I could find words for is this, make your actors not act. You want them to be the character. So a good way to get this to happen is to have them write a back story for the character, it won't be incorporated in the film, but it will help them shape their decisions on how they act. It is really a great way to have the actor connect with the character. Also just tell the actor what they are doing. Don't be a dick about it, but let them know so they can change it. Don't be vague by saying "do that but happier" because no one really gets that. Instead say something like "Jim while you are saying that line could you have a bit of a smile and have a bit more hop in your step" something like that. That might've not been the best example, but you hopefully get the idea.
Okay I hope that answered all of your questions. Let me know if you have more.
Maybe a couple of these?
This very well may have been my friends, as we usually extend our sessions after the sun goes down.
We have a couple of these headlamps. Cheap, and super bright. They have a zoom function so you can concentrate the light as needed:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QAAZY00?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00
Then we use these as floodlights. Not super durable, but very bright and cheap, and the brightness is adjustable via dial.
http://www.amazon.com/NEEWER%C2%AE-Dimmable-Digital-Camcorder-Panasonic/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=pd_bxgy_421_3?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=0BFHGB0K90J2N6SASFDM
http://www.amazon.com/Generic-Replacement-NP-F550-Digital-Battery/dp/B0007Q9PWQ/ref=pd_sim_421_1?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=51DW8ndgtKL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=1QD2ST71K4MTG47GN6J7
http://www.amazon.com/niceEshop-NP-FM50-Np-f330-Np-f550-Np-f570/dp/B000OPB4U6/ref=pd_bxgy_421_2?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=0BFHGB0K90J2N6SASFDM
Two is enough to light up anything but really big problems. We combine those with the headlamps and have been able to light up things like High Plains Drifter enough to get good video in the middle of the night.
Trust me, this is what you want. Most of the people who have climbed with us end up asking me later what lights we were using so they can buy some for themselves.
Yep, LED lights are your best bet- they are small last long on battery power, do not emit heat, and depending on the one you get they can come with a temperature(as in color temperature- blue and yellow) dial as well as a dimmer dial. Something like these:
http://www.amazon.com/Dimmable-Digital-Camcorder-Panasonic-Samsung/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1346276906&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=camera+light
First I would get a 10 dollar bag of reflectors though- use them the right way and they are more valuable than a light.
http://www.amazon.com/NEEWER%C2%AE-60CM-Light-Collapsible-Reflector/dp/B004ATJDVY/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1346277225&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=light+reflectors
EDIT: Sorry I'm kinda lazy and didn't shorten the link these better
most important for gh2 is lens adaptors / lenses. anything so you don't have to shoot with the extremely limited m4/3 lens selections. I'd go with old school nikon primes. thats the cheapest way to cinema look. I have since invested in more expensive canon zoom lenses, but that is for long term investment, because honestly I don't see m4/3 as having much shelf life in terms of video. I really think panasonic made a mistake with the format. they just got lucky that hackers made the gh2 so awesome. so yea, for more expensive glass, I'd say its smarter to invest in s35 or full frame.
Audio. I use a zoom H4n for my dslr recording. I have an me-66 for shotgun stuff, and sennheiser g2 kits for wireless (with the me-2 mic). i usually just do wireless for most things. does the job great.
Shoulder rig, anything really will do. I recommend you don't be seduced by the zacuto stuff, if only because equally functional rigs can be had for 1/10th the cost. I got a $200 indie systems rig on ebay, then DIY'ed a counter balance for it. works great.
other. may want an on camera light, depending on what you're shooting. there's a light on amazon thats only 34 dollars. its cheap, but again, does the job, for 1/10th the litepanels equivalent. (I have the litepanels micro, purchased for $300, equally cheaply constructed and not nearly as bright.) I would definitely have bought this cheap one if it existed at the time.
yeah, i'd do that with any camera tbh and keep the in-camera audio as a back up, just because the pre-amps on consumer cameras tend to generate a lot of hiss.
if that's the case-- if you want sharper video and 60p for slow mo/a better camera for whenever you want to shoot stills, either the a6000 or its cheaper sibling the a5100 are great options. the a6000 is a little easier to use ergonomically because of its hotshoe and viewfinder, and only about $100 more. The a6000 doesnt have a mic jack, but there's a pretty decent shotgun stereo mic that sony makes that plugs directly into the hotshoe to work for about $100.
i'd also definitely recommend going for the native 50mm 1.8 or 35mm 1.8 with OSS in them-- they're not too pricey, especially used, and the stabilization and video AF in both are surprisingly decent.
Panasonic also has some really good options, namely, you can get a used GH2 or G6 for under $300, both of which do great video.
But I'm not going to recommend either of those. Instead, I'm going to recommend the EOS M. You can get one with the pancake 22mm f/2 kit lens for under $300, easily. Yes, it's soft 1080p, but:
>1: it has a mic jack and hotshoe, and with magic lantern, you get pre-amp control, audio levels, and focus peaking to fix its ergonomic failings
>2: its image quality in stills mode is excellent
>3: that leaves you with as much as $250 (even less!!!) for other lenses and or lights + mics + etc
>4: it's mirrorless, so you can adapt basically any mount for it
>5: its the canon menu system, so you're used to it, and if you're shooting for web, soft 1080p is ok-- basically all video on the web is upscaled 720 at best with Youtube's garbage compression & Vimeo's very wise move to default at 720p for streaming. More importantly, canon has great out-of-the-box skin tones, decent 3rd party options for flat profiles, and does skin tones better than anyone (though samsung comes close).
>6: with the amazing 22mm pancake lens, you can literally fit it in your pocket, with a sharp, fast, wide lens. don't underestimate that. I'll never, ever be getting rid of my EOS M for that very reason.
if you're willing to chance it with a no-return ebay listing, this is an insane deal for it at $200: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Canon-EOS-M-18-0-MP-Digital-Camera-Black-Kit-w-EF-M-STM-22mm-Lens-Extras-/301852333911?hash=item4647cd1757:g:xmcAAOSwUV9WntSq
edit: here's a listing that does offer returns and isnt expiring in 25 minutes: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Canon-EOS-M-18-0-MP-Digital-Camera-w-EF-M-STM-22mm-Lens-SN401090-Near-Mint/252261698510?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&amp;_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20150604093004%26meid%3D9cc556ced6ae4eb2988415606b2afa1e%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D321987815557&amp;rt=nc
Edit 2:
If you go with the eos M + 22mm at $250, that leaves you with:
-$125 for a solid ravelli video tripod (less if you search CL or ebay)
-this Takstar mic for $30-- it's 90% as good as a Rode/AT, and its actually easier to work with in post (which you'll need to do with in-camera audio) http://www.amazon.com/Takstar-SGC-598-Recording-Microphone-Camcorder/dp/B00E1D2LTA
-this 50mm f/1.8 manual focus lens for approx. $30 http://www.ebay.com/itm/CANON-LENS-EX-50-MM-1-1-8-/262261014275?hash=item3d0ff97f03:g:oHMAAOSwNSxVdKLd (requires a cheap adapter for an additional $16: http://www.amazon.com/Fotasy-AEMFD-Mirror-Camera-Adapter/dp/B00ACYTWFI/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1453854045&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=ef-m+fd)
this LED camera light for $30: http://www.amazon.com/NEEWER%C2%AE-Dimmable-Digital-Camcorder-Panasonic/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1453854327&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=led+camera+light
This hotshoe extender for $12: http://www.amazon.com/Movo-HVA20-Heavy-Duty-Accessory-Microphones/dp/B00HTWF7MS/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1453854366&amp;sr=8-11-spons&amp;keywords=hotshoe+extender&amp;psc=1
and finally, this cold-shoe grip + extender, for using this tiny camera on the go with a mic for $30:
http://www.amazon.com/Movo-SVH6-Stabilizing-Extender-Olympus/dp/B00YQD94RW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1453854193&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=cold+shoe&amp;psc=1
This is a little over $500, so you could drop 1 or 2 of the accessories, but this will do way more for you for your money.
Cheap LED lights, like these
Very interesting! Too bad GoPros suck in low light - I recommend looking into some of these. I use one mounted on my DSLR for video and as a flashlight when exploring abandoned buildings - it can light up an entire (small) room.
I keep suggesting this seller off of Ebay for the shoulder rig. I recently picked up this item from them, and all I can say is; this was the best cheap purchase I have made in regards to my filming gear. I did have to buy a couple of additional items to make it completely suit my needs, but overall I still saved a LOT of money compared to anything I could have bought off of Amazon or other film gear sites. At the moment I don't need a great matte, the cheesy one that comes with this rig works fine for blocking light.
For follow focus I went with the 50-Dollar Follow Focus from Hondo Garage. I like it a lot, but it doesn't seem to be for everyone. The price also goes up if you buy the larger lens upgrade, which gives you a longer belt and a bigger wheel.
This light panel is plenty bright for anything indoor or anything outdoor that isn't in direct sunlight.
As for mic and mixer, I bought the Tamron DR-40 4 channel mixer, and the Rode NTG2 Shotgun mic. I went with the Tamron because it was $100 dollars cheaper than the Zoom H4N (equivalent mixer) and it was mentioned on several reviews to have a cleaner sounding preamp.
I have a Canon 60D so I don't need CF cards and my tripod is generic and gets the job done.
You can use a $30 LED light and light paint the car. Here's an example of with and without the LED light. I'm extremely happy with the results and for only $30 I consider it a no brainer.
It looks like something similar might be useful for canyoning too... I have a lot of trouble with fast-n-light light down there!
But those LED's, are they something like this... wouldn't they just break/fail in the foam too? Or are those ones waterproof?
Can you tell some more details about the LEDs? ie how effective you find them, how far the light goes, how long they last?
As for lighting around your workspace, I just picked these up today: Antec Bias Lighting can be placed behind your monitor to give it a white glow which is supposedly good for your eyes, and Antec Advance Accent are LED strips that come in red/blue.
Set-up is very easy as they're both USB-powered. Just plug it in and turn on the switch on the cable.
I can't stand wearing glasses and I don't like how F.lux looks, so I invested in some led strips along the back of my television and monitor to create a "bias lighting" effect. I think it helps and looks cool too, its like having a night light. You can get something like this or make your own: https://www.amazon.com/Antec-Halo-LED-Bias-Lighting/dp/B0053B347M
I got these Antec LED light strips last week. I got two of them and put them on the back of my monitor, then plugged them into a powered USB hub. I have a 27.5" monitor so I needed two, but for smaller monitors, one would probably work.
They're not RGB but provide good bias lighting, and still look cool. They also have switches to turn them on or off, or you could hook them up to the USB on your monitor so that when your monitor turns off, they will. Lots of options...
If you don't care about GSync, the best deals currently are Nixeus and Pixio both ~615CAD after shipping+tax from amazon.com. They're both 27" 1440p 144hz IPS panels with Freesync.
If you're going to get a colorimiter I'd go for a ColorMunki Display as it's the same hardware as in the XRite i1DisplayPro with some of the pro software features locked. Spyders are overpriced in Canada imo, as well as slightly worse than the Xrite stuff.
Here you go
According to CCC, it's actually at a fairly low price point right now. I got mine for $100 on sale from b&h I think? But that was a particularly good price. Prime day is coming up so it's possible to see more of a sale but the current price is pretty good.
You don't need to get the more expensive X-Rite i1Display Pro. It's largely the same as the colormunki but has a few more "pro" features built in that you'll never use and it can calibrate faster. You'll do it only once every 6 months after the initial setup so the extra money isn't worth it unless you do color work and need to calibrate often. I would also avoid datacolor's spyder calibrators in favor of the x-rite's.
It really is just one of those amazing tools that you can buy and just have forever and it will earn its value back over and over.
Holla!
I am looking for a gift for my girlfriend. She is just starting out and her biggest bottle neck is a crappy laptop. She has a canon rebel t5 I think so that should be plenty. Her complaint lately is how her edited images colors are way off when she looks on her phone or a print when using her laptop. With this, I see there is monitor color calibrators so I was looking at this: X-Rite CMUNDIS
She is planning on getting a new laptop with her own money and I think the calibrator would be useful for any screen. I also thought about getting a external monitor. Once again she is not professional so I thought something IPS maybe ultrawide? LG UM57 25UM57
And also for a laptop she was asking what she should get so I looked for something portable/sleek, 1080p, ssd, and i5 + and came up with Zenbook-UX305UA
Basically are these good options for someone starting out doing as a side job?
Thanks!
It sounds like you need to calibrate your monitor. I would read up on it on google. I use this device to calibrate my monitors (there are also cheaper ones):
https://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-ColorMunki-CMUNDIS-Accuracy-Calibration/dp/B0055MBQOM/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ColorMunki&amp;qid=1567110396&amp;s=electronics&amp;sr=1-3
Ah, yeah, in that case it may help.
If you have the patience you should consider purchasing a colorimeter and calibrating your TV. You can do this pretty cheaply if you buy the Colormunki Display colorimeter ( on sale for $150 on amazon right now - http://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-CMUNDIS-ColorMunki-Display/dp/B0055MBQOM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1408992805&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=colormunki ) and use the free HCFR calibration software - http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-display-calibration/1393853-hcfr-open-source-projector-display-calibration-software.html
The difference between a properly calibrated TV and even the best you can do by eye with a calibration dvd is night and day.
This is great: https://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-ColorMunki-CMUNDIS-Accuracy-Calibration/dp/B0055MBQOM
Use it with displaycal software.
> Colormunki Display
Thank you for the amazing reply.
The Colormunki Display came out in 2011, right? It has better sensor even though it came out 4 years earlier?
Is this 2011 one, the one you're talking about:
X-Rite CMUNDIS ColorMunki Display CDN$ 168.99
Datacolor S5P100 Spyder5PRO CDN$ 187.16
The Spyder5 express is the same price as the 2011 Colormunki Display.
I usually don't use those items to clean my machine. But I am sort of strict when it comes to using the laptop. Like I never use it while eating etc. ThinkPads are fingerprint magnets. It doesn't take much effort to get it all greasy. I usually clean my machine once a week with a micro fibre cloth and some lens cleaning liquid, like the ones you use to wipe off TVs and such. And it seems to have worked well for me. I've seen people use those materials that you mentioned to clean their ThinkPads but I don't know much about them since I never used them. One thing I suppose you need to be careful about the X1E is the Carbon Fibre weave on the top panel. Refrain from using anything like a "magic eraser" unless you are 100% sure that it will not do any harm. But having a good personal hygiene helps to not go to extreme to clean your laptop. My slight OCD regarding having clean hands does help in that regard. :-)
For the calibration you need a Display Calibration hardware product like X-Rite or Spyder X. In combination with those hardware and the supporting software, you can colour correct your panels. I bought mine in Australia and they provide the option to have it calibrated directly from the factory. Although, not sure why that is even an "option". For a laptop this expensive it should come calibrated by default for everyone who picks the 4K screen. Also, what is the point of supplying one of the best panel on the market with your laptop where it is not properly colour corrected. Doesn't do justice to this beautiful screen. Anyway, that is just my thought. If you want I can give you the profile file on mine and you can try it out on yours to see if it makes any difference or not. But usually panel profiles differ for every panel, so better to have it calibrated individually. Also, professionals recommend that you calibrate your display every few months. I am thinking about buying one on eBay during Christmas sales, it is a one time investment and just might be worth it over a long period of time. Now all that remains is convincing my other half why I need a toy that I'll only use 3 or 4 times a year. For me, that is the toughest part in this whole "calibration" issue. ;-) .
Hope you enjoy your X1E for years to come. Cheers.
According to the specs you gave your current monitor has a PPI of 90.05 at an aspect ratio of 16:10. The most popular spec is 24" 1920x1080 aspect ratio of 16:9 which has a PPI of 91.79. So not far off to what you have.
If you want to stick to a PPI of around 90-92 you can try to look for 32" 2560x1440p 16:9 monitors. The UI size will be close to what you are used to, though I don't know of any with an IPS panel (which is important in your line of work).
If you want to stick to a 16:10 aspect ratio there's the Dell U2415 at 93.95 PPI.
Lastly, you could look into Ultrawides (21:9 aspect ratio). The Dell U3415W at 109.68 PPI looks good for productivity, but I don't know if you can deal with the curve as some designers can and some can't. Flat ultrawide like the LG 29WK600 is a good option at 95.81 PPI.
Use this PPI Calculator when researching monitors. Higher PPI = sharper image and more work space, but you will need to keep UI size in mind like you mentioned before.
Also don't forget to get a calibration tool like a X-Rite ColorMunki if you're doing professional work.
Buy a color calibrator, or do it very crudely (if you are selling prints I would not do this) and hold your phone next to your MacBook and use the basic software adjustments like contrast, gamma, and rgb settings to match it. A proper color calibrator will ensure your photos are accurate and as even as they can be across all screens. Some of the higher end ones even allow camera and printer calibration. Once again, unless you are just shooting for fun, id STRONGLY recommend actually buying a proper calibrator like these:
Datacolor spyder5PRO or the spyder5elite
x-rite colormunki display or the x-rite idisplay PRO
yes
I would suggest checking out Anandtech's Monitor review section. They're incredibly thorough in their reviews. If you're looking for a deal, they recommend Monoprice's 27" IPS As long as you use a calibration tool like the X-Rite i1Display Pro.
i1Display Pro is one of the best, and almost all calibration software will work on it.
I used one called Chromapure. I bought the pro version which is $199. But with software you also have to have a colorimeter which will also run you about $200. Would probably be cheaper to pay for a calibration. There is a free option for software called HCFR. It's open source and there are some tutorials for using it such as this one but you will still need the colorimeter. The tutorial goes over the needed items and even links to places to purchase them. I got my meter off of eBay because you can find them for less than other sites stores most of the time. Edit: This is the meter I bought.
The only one I have experience with is [this one](X-Rite i1Display Pro - Display Calibration (EODIS3) Scanner & Software for Color Accuracy Scanning, Profiling, & Multi Device Calibration https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0055MBQOW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_qRmMDOs9LhFSF). It’s very simple to use. There’s a third-party software that is recommended for implementing the color profile, though. I’ll see if I can dig that up.
https://lg.encompass.com/shop/model_research_docs/?file=/ZEN/sm/OLED55B6PU.pdf
Page 9. Anyone should be able to do this but would have to be very patient and actually understand what they're doing first. For someone to try to understand that procedure, figure out software, and also learn to use a probe, would take some time but once they had it down could keep all monitors in their house calibrated.
You can get probes that would be enough for a novice on amazon for about $250.
I don't have any advice on software. Everything I calibrate is through LabView or an Agilent/Fluke/Tektronix program. But I've been in different calibration jobs without any significant experience and have been able to learn.
Like the guy said, it's better to have an engineer do it, especially if that resource is available, but there's no reason someone couldn't do it themselves. eevblog also has random information on a lot of things like this as well.
> Once calibrated [the S2716DG] is the best TN panel ever.
Please forgive my inexperience, but how does one calibrate a monitor? Is it the on-board settings display? Do you need external equipment? (If so, $200 for a colorimeter seems a bit much, on-top of the already pricey S2716DG.)
Some monitors have black crush, i.e. dark gray and black are indistinguishable. People compensate for this by jacking up gamma, which fixes the black crush, but then black is gray and white becomes crushed.
If you're hardcore, get a X-Rite i1Display Pro or cheaper ColorMunki (not tried this one, looks to be the same but slower) and use DisplayCAL to calibrate the monitor. If you're not hardcore, do this black level test. All the low blacks should be visible. But now you probably fail white level test. Hard to get it perfect w/o a sensor.
After I started calibrating I found no need to adjust gamma, because things that were previously uniform black became unique shades of gray. Your eyes might be worse than mine, though.
This is the light box I got. I love it because it came with everything I needed (including the lights and light box). It is very compact and portable. It wraps up into it's own carrying case with pockets for the lights and the camera tripod. It's pretty perfect for me!
https://www.amazon.com/LimoStudio-Photography-Studio-Lighting-AGG349/dp/B005CX9S8A/ref=sr_1_12?s=photo&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483465750&amp;sr=1-12&amp;keywords=light+box
I have this one , but I don't like it much and rarely use it anymore. I had a hard time with anything that wasn't tiny showing the edges of the box on the sides. Plus I still had shadow issues. And the lights that come with them get HOT fast, which sucks when you want to adjust them.
Instead I have a couple places in my house with decent natural lighting, 2 cheap gooseneck lamps I got at goodwill, and some black and white posterboard. It just seems easier to me, and the results are about equal. That is to say, my photos are decent but not fantastic.
From Penn State actually!
The light box I got from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/LimoStudio-Photography-Studio-Lighting-AGG349/dp/B005CX9S8A/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1541632217&amp;sr=8-6&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=light+box&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51kJgTeh7IL&amp;ref=plSrch
This is a link to the light box i bought and i played around with the pro settings on my Galaxy Note 8. And a lot of trial and error.
If it helps though, I used this cheap lightbox and some extra flashlights to get the backdrop and lighting. However, I'd either wait for a price drop or look for that model elsewhere because it was only $22 when I bought it from amazon and it's almost double that now for whatever reason.
You could also pretty easily build a little diffused lightbox yourself. They work great for small items like beer cans.
I have this 16"x16" one. I put the lights on the outside and it works well. The fabric needed ironing. It might look wrinkly in some of my photos because I didn't iron it right away.
LimoStudio 16" x 16" Table Top Photo Photography Studio Lighting Light Tent Kit in a Box, AGG349 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CX9S8A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QQv8Cb1795CWZ
Here are some photos.
https://imgur.com/a/WG8lMdr
They're nice. Just make sure to get one that's large enough.
The one I got from Amazon (this one) is much too small for anything besides HGs. I don't regret it as I got it for a good price from Amazon warehouse but knowing what I know now, I'd've spent a bit more and gotten a larger one.
Oh and here is the mini studio in case you're curious: https://www.amazon.com/LimoStudio-Photography-Studio-Lighting-AGG349/dp/B005CX9S8A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482707772&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=mini+photo+studio
This is a tab expensive but it was the first light box i bought and its been pretty handy https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005CX9S8A/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Couple things:
I recently bought a little light tent that works AMAZING for action figures. It's actually really cheap for the drastic improvement in your picture quality. Here it is on Amazon Just remember to shoot with as low an ISO as possible and compensate with a tripod and a slow shutter.
Also, I want to casually mention that this figure is on the ol'bay. Not gonna link to it but you can search for it if you care. :D
Just get something like this and plug in whatever bulbs you want. Strobes don't really work for video.
Simple headshots?
I started with THIS
Changed the bulbs to my liking and voila.
Nice job! I thought it was a real good list and I've gotta agree with most of it, especially maximum overdrive. A few suggestions I'd make would be to try a different background, maybe have some horror related things around you like posters, figures, whatever. I'd also say try messing around with the lighting a bit for the face cam parts. It was shadowy too yellow. If you don't have anything specific you use I'd suggest this set.
https://www.amazon.com/Photography-Portrait-Continuous-LimoStudio-LMS103/dp/B005FHZ2SI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469661904&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=limostudio+lighting+kit
It's cheap and it works really well. You are very charismatic and the content of the video itself is really good. I liked the overall length of the video too, not overly long and just enough to describe each film and get the idea of why it made the list. Keep up the good work!
I have this cheap light kit from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Photography-Portrait-Umbrella-Continuous-LimoStudio/dp/B005FHZ2SI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1517634363&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=light+kit
I use it for taking documentation pictures of art. It's pretty good, the bulbs that come with it aren't particularly bright, so I bought some of the same brand's larger bulbs. They're daylight balanced.
Depends on what kind of photography you'll be doing of course, if you plan to be hand holding, shooting people etc, you'll probably still want to use flashes (maybe as supplements to the light kit) or brighter lights.
You're welcome! Here is the link
This link is especially cool because you can choose to buy the whole set at once or just parts. So if anything ever breaks or you want more of one thing, you can always take care of it!
Yeah, the amazon kits, for the most part, are just junk, and the stuff you do really want is bad quality. It's substantially better to get stuff as you get more experience.
For a camera, I definitely think that you are good with a t6i or t7i. I agree with the other poster to make sure that you get an "i" because they have the swivel screen that makes life so much easier. After a quick check, you could get this referbed t6i for about $500 which is not bad. Don't worry about it coming with a kit lens, sometimes those lenses can be useful, and for the most part, since it is an "amateur" camera, they are hard to find body only. So you should be good there.
I'm not entirely sure what the "tutorial" mode is, but really do read up on the exposure triangle. It's not super difficult (there are TONS of great graphics that help explain it), and it will make your photos/videos SO much better because you will be in control, and more aware of the capabilities and limitations of your camera than if you shoot in a mode that's not manual.
Also a few quick notes about filming with DSLRs that you aren't going to see if you just look at photography sources. One, try your darnest to always shoot ISO 100 when filming. Bumping the ISO in pictures is fine because the grain is either not recognizable or is easy to remove in photos, but it is SUPER noticeable and hard to remove in video. This is because the grain changes every frame, effectively animating it. The other thing is that if you shoot higher than 60 fps, you might end up wanting to add motion blur or something because the video might look a little odd. On the contrary, for photos you'll probably want to shoot more like 200 so that handshake doesn't introduce motion blur.
The other thing that is SUPER IMPORTANT for video and just like "nice to have" for photos is a good memory card that has a high write speed. This is the one that I personally use. If the memory card doesn't have a high write speed, then your camera will just stop recording because the write speed of the memory card can't keep up with the data coming from the camera.
Also, side note, there are tons of articles that will say that canons can't shoot more than 12 minutes of video at a time because it exceeds the 4gb file size (which it can't go past due to stupid copyright laws. I don't get it either). This isn't entirely true. All the canons that I have dealt with (everything from a t3i to 70D) record fine past the 12 minute mark, just when they get done recording it will split it into 4gb files. Only one canon have I ever seen ALWAYS shut done at the 12 minute mark no matter what, so I suspect it was just broken. However, even with my own trusted camera that I have never had problems recording more than 12 minutes has recently stopped at about 30mins (my guess had to do write speeds), so just always be aware.
As far as lighting kits go, this one is pretty good for a beginer. Most people do a basic 3 point lighting which is probably fine enough for what you want to do. So with that in mind, and since you want to do green screen, you might want to get 2 of those kits. The key to doing green screen is to have a really well- and evenly- lit screen. TBH you really don't need to get a green screen kit unless you just want to. All it really is, is just a large piece of fabric anchored in such a way so that there are no wrinkles. Of course, the kits are nicer, but you may want to see if you can DIY that part.
As for a tripod, this one is probably fine for what you want to do. Just keep in mind that if you continue to do more in video/photography you will probably need to get a better one later on. I personally have one like this that I use like as a back-up, so they aren't a complete waste of money.
Hopefully this helps! If you have any more questions feel free to ask!
If you’re looking for a reasonably priced lighting setup, here is what I use:
Photography Photo Portrait Studio 600W Day Light Umbrella Continuous Lighting Kit by LimoStudio, LMS103 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005FHZ2SI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XMmVBb2BH6EX3
I like the flexibility with having more than one light and the umbrellas really soften the light, giving a much higher quality of light. And if you ever desire to use a green screen, these can throw a lot of light on that to smooth out any shadows. It’s a solid setup for the price.
http://amzn.com/B00L4YR0BS
http://amzn.com/B00MLWSYB2
a little concerned about them being too wobbly. we'll see
Thank you and steal away lol.
Tip: I had to double up the flood lamps on each window. My original idea was one clamp/bulb per window but it wasn’t giving me the desired brightness so I doubled them up which looked great from the street. You’ll have to play around with it and see what works best for your needs.
I also had two studio light soft box stands lying around that really helped with the brightness and made it so I only had to use one bulb on two of the windows. I would have used just the studio light stands for all the windows if I had enough but I ran through my budget this year already so couldn’t get more. If you’d like, I can PM you a couple pictures of the setup for reference.
The soft box light stands I’m referring to:
Neewer 700W Professional Photography 24x24 inches/60x60 Centimeters Softbox with E27 Socket Light Lighting Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017D7W57S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VDHMDb5HDB7QJ
After reading a bunch a reviews I went with the Neewer 700w Pro Kit. Very inexpensive, gets great reviews, and comes with everything you need. I've only used it for 1 day but have already gotten multiple comments on the upgrade.
www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017D7W57S#Ask
I can’t stress it enough for anyone that has a smartphone and can download the amazon seller app ( should be free even if you just open an account and never sell ) the Amazon lightbox below ($135) and their app gives you pure white background without doing anything and can fit up to knee high boots.
No photo skills needed at all and it’s a lot less space than the big ass lights and tripods people keep using . The only time it’s not perfect is if your item has a lot of white against the white background .
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-53-005312-Portable-Photo-Studio/dp/B01GIL6EU4
I have this one I wouldn't say it is BIFL, but it is good enough that it should last you a while and it stores away neatly. Read the reviews before getting one, you can always order it try it out and if you don't like it send it back.
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-53-005312-Portable-Photo-Studio/dp/B01GIL6EU4/ref=sr_1_3?s=photo&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1523907662&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=photo+studio
I have this one from Amazon. Terrific quality and it folds up when not in use. It’s a great size and so far has been big enough to photograph everything I’ve been selling. Folds up nicely so you can store it away when not in use. I can’t say if it has helped me sell things any faster but it definitely adds a level of professionalism to your listings that makes it stand out. Definitely worth it.
AmazonBasics Portable Photo Studio https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GIL6EU4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SlnLAbSKX264Q
Amazon Basics Foldable Light Box
What's the budget ballpark? You're probably not going to get a reliable system that takes good product shots and is wireless super cheap.
What quality do you need to photos? Are they for advertising, where you need a super clear shot that looks professional? Or you just need to catalog the parts and image quality isn't that high of a consideration?
For parts that small you're going to want a macro lens. Also spend some money on a light box, the pictures will look much more professional if you use that.
In my experience, wireless tethering isn't that great. At least the system's that I've tried. If it has to be wireless, look into something like a CamRanger. I'd recommend going wired and using CaptureOne instead though.
Rough ballpark...
If you can get by without needing the pictures directly on the computer automatically, that's all you'll need. Otherwise you'll need tethering software (I suggest CaptureOne, $300 once or $20/month). If you need it wirelessly, I think a CamRanger ($200) would work, but am not certain.
The camera gear I listed is bottom of the barrel and old, but should work just fine for what you're needing, assuming you buy something used that is in good shape. KEH has an excellent reputation for selling used gear that is honestly marked as far as condition.
I'm using the Amazon Basics Portable Studio:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GIL6EU4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Comes with two led light bars , front and left top.
Thanks so much!
I picked up a 2x2x2 Amazon Basics lightbox (https://amzn.to/2p0kTSh) awhile ago. It's a bit overkill for the smaller models but amazing for larger kits. It folds down quite nicely too.
I used a Sony A7 to take the shots / Lightroom for some minor edits.
Hope that helps. I'll share the full team soon too :)
Thanks and congrats! Another milestone!
I've got to try that Viltron L116T.
Viltrox L116T
Great shot!! Product photography is 80% lighting. A few basic tricks if you dont want to invest too much:
1- A basic reflector kit (silver, gold, diffusor) will set you back about 30$ and can really help up your photography game. Alternatively, a 2x3 piece of glossy carboard, set like a dome over your watch, can act as a ghetto reflector and give you very nice results.
2- A LED panel such as this one lets you adjust both the intensity and the warmth of the light, which comes in handy when you want to match it with a secondary source of light.
3- You probably already know this, but RAW + Lightroom are your best friends if you’re shooting with a DSLR
Oh I found it! And the price dropped a lot! Here:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KZLM3QC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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PS - Does NOT come with a AC power cord. You need to buy that separate.
One of the good cheap lights is the Viltrox L116T. That should definitely be enough for your needs. It has adjustable color temperature and brightness, and can be powered by either batteries or a power adapter (neither included, but linked on the product page). I think these would provide better lighting than what you're looking at.
I had a large ring light that even at low settings just gave me headaches and got me tired fast. I had it angled as best I could but it was so large I couldn't do a lot. I tried diffusing it when it was facing me and it still happened. I moved it so it was bouncing off the wall instead of facing me.
I actually replaced it with this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KZLM3QC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01 (you need a power adapter too) and this is in the same spot as the ring light was (behind my monitor because I have no other room) but hasn't hurt my eyes. I don't know if it's just angled in a better way but it's significantly smaller even though the light is still as bright as far as I can tell.
Viltrox L116T(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KZLM3QC/)
Thanks parametrek!
https://www.amazon.com/VILTROX-L116T-3300K-5600K-Temperature-Brightness/dp/B07D8TTFSR/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=viltrox&amp;qid=1563219816&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-2-spons&amp;psc=1
Another vote for a Canon Vixia. You can get them refurbished for as low as $130 from B&H. We use them at a little community station I'm involved with as loaner/newbie cameras. They'll take a good picture (no, it's not going to match a GH5, but you can just set it up and hit record), are the only entry-level camcorders with a mic input, and the codec edits fairly well even on a modest system.
You will want decent light - "practical light" (IE - overhead lights, lamps, etc) can be enough, but these little LED panels are cheap and bright enough for sit-down interviews where you can place the light a little closer to the person. https://www.amazon.com/VILTROX-L116T-3300K-5600K-Temperature-Brightness/dp/B07D8TTFSR/
You might want to pick up one of those and an inexpensive light stand, you'll need/want a couple of SD cards (I'd recommend 64gb w/ the Vixia, it'll hold hours of interviews and is at a good price/capacity point). Get two, and an external hard drive - a 2tb drive is about $50-60 now. As soon as you get home copy the video to the external hard drive.
You'll want a decent tripod, you might be able to get away with a cheap tripod for this project, but spending a few bucks more gives you something that will hold up. This is still a cheap tripod, and it's heavy, but it's a good one, reasonably smooth pan and tilt and the one we have has stood up to 3 years of abuse by volunteers. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1240923-REG/davis_sanford_provista7518b_provista_7518b_tripod_with.html?sts=pi&pim=Y
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A lavalier mic can be useful. One thing to note, the Vixia does not provide "plug in power" to mics, so you need to look for dynamic mics that truly don't need power or battery powered condenser mics.
I don't have a whole lot of experience with the built in flash as when I used it I didn't have much luck with it. It isn't very powerful but I have seen youtube videos showing how you can use it some what effectively. If you are using the kit lens you can use it straight on but if you have a longer lens, such as a Sigma 16mm, the barrel of the lens is so long that it gets in the way of the flash make the built in flash unusable unless you point it upwards and bounce it off the ceiling or such (again i'll refer you to youtube for more research on that). If you are looking for a cheap alternative to the built in flash I highly recommend a cheap $30 flash off Amazon (maybe even cheaper with the Amazon Day deals going on right now) and a cheap LED light for photography for extra light. I personally have this flash (for $30.99) and this LED light (for $34.59).
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There are a few scenarios in which I use these lights.
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I will say if I am taking photos of animals or people I never use the LED light as the constant light source can be overwhelmingly bright on the eyes where as the flash is just a quick, well, flash of light. So shooting stills might be best to use an LED light of sorts in your scenario. Again this is my experience of a hobbyist photographer AND if you want to do it on a small budget, by no means am I a professional and I always recommend people to do their own research on how to use their camera properly as there is great videos and guides out there from known professionals.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L4YR0BS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
For the footprint someone on Amazon measured 26", which seems about right. I tried bringing them in a bit but the center pole gets in the way. Mine are probably 2 feet wide.
I'm using these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L4YR0BS
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012FTXOW4
Obviously not as stable as a wall mount, but they're pretty good.
I'd recommend just using light poles. I use these when I'm setting up my Vive away from my house. You would also need these.
I ordered my vive during the Christmas sale so it hasn't arrived yet. I'm in the same situation as you, in an apartment where I don't want to drill holes.
But I did a quick google search about our use case and found these.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L4YR0BS
combined with these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M07M9D4
should work fine. Old reddit posts recommend these.
There's also tripods you could use. Just make sure to find some with a small footprint so they don't eat into your space if you plan to have them in the corners of it. These are pretty good for that.
Non Drilling solutions as I'm not in a situation where i can drill mounts into the walls:
Personally (UK) i have used these two products, work a charm, a bit of a wide base so not ideal for smaller areas.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00L4YR0BS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01ESJ7754/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I then moved house and switched to these, these are great, one fits on the curtain rail, and the other fits on the banister uprights. Clamp goes pretty wide.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01KFUSXEY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
These are the bad boys I ended up buying. They seemed fairly reasonably priced, and with the mounts they work great when I want to move my vive around.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L4YR0BS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M07M9D4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00L4YR0BS/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I use these. Nice and portable and surprisingly resilient for the price!
I got a kit on amazon for $70 that works wonders.
Neewer 700W Professional Photography 24x24 inches/60x60 Centimeters Softbox with E27 Socket Light Lighting Kit
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017D7W57S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7ZLHDbC666GRZ
(Sorry I'm on mobile)
Thank you!
>At any price? You'll pay any amount?
Within reason - if a lens that's perfect for this is a few hundred bucks, no problem. Close to a thousand, I'd think about it. More than that, I'm probably out. It's a business purchase for me, though, so easier to justify.
>Be more specific on the lights.
Ahh - let's talk about that :)
What I have now seems to 404 on Amazon's site, so they must not offer it anymore. However, I believe they are closest to these, which is two 700w lightboxes, each with an 85W CFL at 5500K.
I'm absolutely open to switching around the lighting setup.
Neewer 700W Professional Photography 24x24 inches/60x60 Centimeters Softbox with E27 Socket Light Lighting Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017D7W57S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_OncSBbEARN4DN
Ok, figured you just linked the wrong video. Neewer 700W Professional Photography 24x24 inches/60x60 centimeters Softbox with E27 Socket Light Lighting Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017D7W57S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_D8bpzbGRSWY1S
Softboxes or umbrellas for food photography?
I have a social media/food instagram account that I created as part of a social media course. I create my own content, which makes the photo quality very important. I have a professional camera and received a recommendation for a tripod here—which I bought.
But I still find that the lighting is the most important thing. I created some good photos by creating very shoddy softboxes with desk lamps and some see-through/sheer fabric, but these broke recently; so I'm thinking of upgrading.
However, I've come across two different things: umbrellas and softboxes. I don't know which to get. What's your recommendation?
https://www.amazon.ca/Neewer-Professional-Photography-Lighting-Portraits/dp/B017D7W57S/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538619759&sr=8-3&keywords=product+photography+light
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B003WLY24O/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1_1_1?smid=AYYB6OSI63NRK&psc=1
On a budget, you might look into lighting options instead. My DSLR/Photoshop always give the best results but sometimes I’m just way too lazy for that lol. I can get pretty good results on my iPhone 6 with good lighting and the Afterlight app, and I’m sure a newer phone would be even better.
I have these soft boxes and have been happy with them (and they’re on sale for Black Friday currently) link
This little ring light is an inexpensive option. There’s probably better ones out there, but it’s like $10 and good for a quick pop of light or balancing out a shadow link
Hello,
I have this softbox light set I use for Streaming. It came with (2)85W 5500K CFL Light Bulbs. I was wondering if there was an upgrade for these lights? CFL or LED. Thanks
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Professional-Photography-Centimeters-Lighting/dp/B017D7W57S
My main job is creating educational videos, I work for a university creating all kinds of online content/course content (Engineering school so mostly math, science, etc), so I have a few ideas for what you can do. I do everything from just recording lectures to greenscreen + animations. The simplest and cheapest setup would be to use your phone on a tripod and a wired lav mic. If the lighting in your room is good (a big window or lots of lights in the room) that should be fine, but you can also get a [cheap lighting kit](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017D7W57S?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=maxwell032-20&amp;camp=1789&amp;linkCode=xm2&amp;creativeASIN=B017D7W57S).
If you want to go a bit more interesting, you could try a light board (these are getting more popular). Sample Video here and How to build one. More money ($300-$1500 depending if you want to use a proper camera or your phone still) but the content can be more engaging and easier to use.
Another style that's becoming popular is to use a tablet while recording to superimpose writing overtop of video. I have also seen an overhead angle used to show a tabletop with paper to write on.
Let me know if you need any help! Happy to talk about this kind of stuff.
Links to store stuff are affiliate links
New to photography. Apologies if this was discussed elsewhere on here but I could not find it for the life of me. I recently decided to try off camera flash and bought a Godox TT685N kit and a octo softbox to diffuse the light. I'm really enjoying shooting with it but I can't help but notice sometimes that I have shadows in places I don't want on my subject and was wondering is it a good idea to buy another flash or combine flash with continuous light or some kind of fill light to save a little money? So far the speedlight is the only lighting equipment I use and I primarily shoot indoors. I was looking at these to add to my lighting kit https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017D7W57S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Get the Amazon Basics Photo Studio. Even designed to work with the FBA mobile app. It's high quality studio. It's $135 though but it's money well spent compared to all the other crappy light boxes.
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-53-005312-Portable-Photo-Studio/dp/B01GIL6EU4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484864740&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=amazon+basics+photo+studio
Anyone that isn't hip should check out the Amazon Basics photo studio. I have one and it's awesome and so easy to setup! I bought mine "used" (just an open box item) through Amazon Warehouse for under $120.
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-53-005312-Portable-Photo-Studio/dp/B01GIL6EU4
A portable light box to photograph her projects. Mine is indispensable.
Depending on money:
[Affordable but smaller]
(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07176FCQ5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZvXgAbCDC9GDD)
[If you can afford more... bigger is better!]
(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GIL6EU4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_txXgAb3377KNM)
Can anyone recommend this?
AmazonBasics Portable Photo Studio https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GIL6EU4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_eaxhAb26GKNEQ
My pictures have been sucking and could be a lot better with lighting like this and I like the way it folds up and stores nearly. Hefty price tag though.
Wish I had an amazon referral link, but here ya go:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GIL6EU4/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_GVJqDbGGEKJMF
You have to be a little careful with glare, but just playing with the angle of the item/camera works pretty well for me.
Yep! AmazonBasics Portable Photo Studio https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GIL6EU4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.XzzCbJX7FTXP
I think the colour palette feels very... industrial, I would play with that and talk to people about what kind of colours best suit your company. I'm not sure about the company, whether it's outsourcing these products however if you're taking the pictures of the razors, consider grabbing a white box, and a light to take the pictures rather than over a wood grain. You can make something like this at home for a few dollars.
https://www.amazon.ca/AmazonBasics-EP53-010723-Portable-Photo-Studio/dp/B01GIL6EU4/ref=asc_df_B01GIL6EU4/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292974284305&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18068417753329043996&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001329&hvtargid=pla-367303678037&psc=1
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It's well designed from a user perspective, but there are some tweaks that should be made.
>id="et-top-navigation"
>
>You should add "display: flex" to it's CSS code, so that when in mobile view the icons appear side-by-side.
>
>The above code, however would not maintain normal functionality in desktop mode, play with containers and such and see what can be done to fix that. Obviously conditional viewport styling would work as you have that already.
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>id="main-content"
>
>You should add "padding-bottom: 32px" so that it doesn't smooch with the footer.
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The search bar overlaps with the logo on the top on mobile, which could result in annoying and unwanted redirection.
I'd recommend:
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Camera equipment: ($650 CAD total)
I'd look at the Canon PowerShot SX740, which has:
https://www.amazon.ca/Canon-PowerShot-Digital-Camera-Optical/dp/B07FXXVC74/
Two extra batteries & a spare charger: ($55 CAD)
https://www.amazon.ca/Newmowa-NB-13L-Battery-Charger-PowerShot/dp/B0752HZ8TZ/
Two memory cards: ($60/ea x2 = $120 CAD)
https://www.amazon.ca/SanDisk-128GB-Extreme-UHS-I-SDSDXXY-128G-GN4IN/dp/B07H9DVLBB
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Tripod equipment: ($450 CAD total)
As far as a camera tripod goes, a good 2-way fluid-head bowl-mount tripod will do what you want: ($290 CAD)
https://www.amazon.ca/Cayer-BV30L-Professional-Mid-Level-Camcorder/dp/B0784CWMP4
A gliding track for sliding shots on a flat surface or tripod: ($70 USD)
https://www.amazon.ca/Neewer-centimeters-Stabilizer-Camcorder-Photography/dp/B06Y3MKC7C
A motorized desktop dolly: ($90 CAD)
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07JJ3F12H/
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Lighting equipment: ($545 CAD total)
As far as lighting goes, I'd check out an adjustable-temperature (color temp) LED set. Here's one that includes 3 lights (left, right, backlight - standard set of 3 lights): ($345 CAD)
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Pieces-Bi-Color-Video-Light/dp/B0744H2CWG/
If you're going to be doing a lot of product shots, you'll want a compact photo booth. Amazon has their own brand with built-in LED lighting: ($200 CAD)
https://www.amazon.ca/AmazonBasics-EP53-010723-Portable-Photo-Studio/dp/B01GIL6EU4/
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Going cheaper:
If you need to go cheaper, I'd stick with the camera kit as-is, but just do this tripod instead & skip the slider & dolly: ($175 CAD)
https://www.amazon.ca/Neewer-Monopod-Rotatable-Panoramic-Shooting/dp/B0734ZZN61/
And if you're going to mostly be focusing on small game boards & cards, then you can probably just get away with the photo booth, instead of the full lighting kit. So $650 camera + $175 tripod + $200 photo booth = $1,025 CAD for everything.
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part 1/2
I might have $50 in it. Any back drop will work.
You can buy one if these too. This is a complete unit.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GIL6EU4
Get one of these and save yourself some money
Anyone knows where I can get a photography tent with built-in LEDs locally? Like this one from Amazon -
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-53-005312-Portable-Photo-Studio/dp/B01GIL6EU4
I don't mind buying the Amazon one but shipping to S'pore is so expensive.
More than $50 but I use something like this : https://www.ebay.com/itm/Photo-Studio-Video-60cm-24-Lighting-Box-Shooting-Tent-Cube-w-126-LED-Light-Kit/331858893539?hash=item4d4454dae3:g:xBIAAOSwOVpXYmYq
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It is self-contained with LEDs in the roof so no additional lighting is needed. There's a similar one on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-EP53-010723-Portable-Photo-Studio/dp/B01GIL6EU4
You might be able to pick a used one on eBay to get you down near $50.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GIL6EU4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Highly recommended!
Hmm. I don't want to buy button-tops just to jump on the Sofirn bandwagon. So I guess it'd have to be a
Zebralight SC53c(eww, XP-L2) Viltrox.Here's my setup. Looks like this. My lights are mounted using a 1/4"-20 camera gooseneck mount with a thread pattern that some microphone boom arms also use:
If your mic boom uses a 5/8"-27 pattern, then you might need this adapter:
Viltrox L116T
Let's try for Viltrox as usual :)
https://www.amazon.com/Viltrox-L116T/dp/B01KZLM3QC/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KZLM3QC
Thanks!
Does anyone mind if I jump on the bandwagon?
Thank you, Para!
Thanks for the giveaway!
and the viltrox l116t for me: https://www.amazon.com/Viltrox-L116T/dp/B01KZLM3QC/?tag=parametrek-20
The Viltrox lights are cool.
http://www.amazon.com/Viltrox-L116T/dp/B01KZLM3QC/?tag=parametrek-20
https://www.amazon.com/Viltrox-L116T/dp/B01KZLM3QC/?tag=parametrek-20
Viltrox L116T high CRI, variable color temperature panel light
Thanks!
http://www.amazon.com/Viltrox-L116T/dp/B01KZLM3QC/?tag=parametrek-20
Viltrox L116T
Manker E03H NWThank you for doing all these! Love the more frequent/lower priced giveaways. I really don't need a $100 flashlight anyways...
Thank you, as always!
[(https://www.amazon.com/VILTROX-L116T-Dimmable-Bi-Color-3300K-5600K/dp/B01KZLM3QC/)]
Back down to Viltrox 116T prices!
https://www.amazon.com/VILTROX-L116T-Dimmable-Bi-Color-3300K-5600K/dp/B01KZLM3QC/
That's good reasoning on lowering the limit. Thanks for keeping these going!
I love that you have light panels also
https://www.amazon.com/Viltrox-L116T/dp/B01KZLM3QC/?tag=parametrek-20
I've seen Adam Savages video using one of these lights. My dad would love this for our workbench.
Awesome and thanks! This looks interesting
https://www.amazon.com/Viltrox-L116T/dp/B01KZLM3QC/?tag=parametrek-20
Any other nice light panel would be cool too if the price changes or this goes OOS.
Thanks, Uncle Para.
Viltrox L116T
Thanks for all you do to support the community
https://www.amazon.com/VILTROX-L116T-3300K-5600K-temperature-Brightness/dp/B01KZLM3QC
Thanks
https://www.amazon.com/Viltrox-L116T/dp/B01KZLM3QC/?tag=parametrek-20
Thanks! I'm in for a Viltrox VL116T.
Edited for the 116T.
Thanks as always Parametrek! Already have the 162 and love it, so will go for a 116. Viltrox :)
Hey, thanks for doing another giveaway! I'm in for a Viltrox L116T!
Thank you!
Since others recommended it:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KZLM3QC/
Thank you!
That was fast. Thanks & good luck. Fingers crossed for the Viltrox kit.
Thanks as always!
Still in it to win a Viltrox L116Twith battery and charger
Whoooooo thanks!!
VILTROX L116T RA CRI95 Super Slim LED Light Panel,3300K-5600K LED Video Light Panel, LCD Display Screen,Color Temperature and Brightness can be Adjusted with NP-F550 Lithium Battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D8TTFSR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_BXU8BbHEQX3HW
Many thanks!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D8TTFSR/
I'll bite, Viltrox L116T https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D8TTFSR/ref=twister_B07H2DZNBL?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Is this going to be intense on the eyes? I already work an 8hr a day job on the computer, this might be overkill if its super bright in my eyes. The one you linked however still seems a bit big.. I just found this one though in 'sponsored products': https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D8TTFSR/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07D8TTFSR&pd_rd_w=Lqtnz&pf_rd_p=8a8f3917-7900-4ce8-ad90-adf0d53c0985&pd_rd_wg=Euict&pf_rd_r=E1HDXDP7CWSMMZMR79T8&pd_rd_r=4dd1fd04-75ad-11e9-a9da-2171f603c15c
It seems small and compact which is good, only thing I dont like about this one is that it runs on only batteries. I stream often so this would run out pretty often and might get annoying. Are there alternatives like that, that I can clamp on my monitor for example? Maybe without batteries?
Thank you Para!
Viltrox L116T
Thanks as always Parametrek!
I'd love one of these:https://www.amazon.com/VILTROX-L116T-3300K-5600K-Temperature-Brightness/dp/B07D8TTFSR/
Good luck everyone!
Maybe a photography light panel.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D8TTFSR/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_6?smid=A39K54HFH17J9M&amp;psc=1
Could always use a Viltrox L116T. Super handy for all sorts of things.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D8TTFSR/?tag=parametrek-20
Trying to build a simple, large overhead rig for work for under $300 to do creative, top-down shots. We have a Canon EOS 7D and a 28-135mm lens that we will probably replace because it has an issue with the zoom sliding down at anything more than a 30 degree tilt.
I think I've come up with a pretty bare bones rig that will work. But since I usually just shoot by hand or tripod and don't have much experience with studio equipment, I was hoping someone could check to make sure this would work.
Was hoping if someone could tell me if this seems okay. Could anyone recommend an affordable lens that would be good for shooting from about 8' - 10'? Furthermore, is there a somewhat inexpensive method for routing shots to a Macbook for review while shooting?
EDIT: It looks like the best way to route shots is a 15' USB cable and to route into a software, so that should be pretty straightforward.
Manfrotto clamp $30.
Plus a Ball head phone clamp $40
$70+ phone clamp on a starter set of clubs. Reddit approves!
Add an Anker power pack and you don't need to tap into the cart power.
Not for the piano specifically, but for any top down knolled shots I use Manfrotto gear:
•244 Variable Friction Magic Arm with Camera Bracket
•TwistGrip Universal Smartphone Clamp
•496RC2 Compact Ball Head with Quick Release Plate
•055 Aluminum 3-Section Tripod with Horizontal Column
•035RL Super Clamp with 2908 Standard Stud
Amazon is linked, but I recommend looking around before buying, as pro photo gear is usually on sale somewhere.
The only thing not listed is the lighting, but that’s because location/content determines the setup.
Good, even lighting is going to be the biggest concern, followed by the camera mount. I think given good lighting, almost any camera would do the job, provided it can make a video as long as you require (some cameras have a short time limit on how long of a video it can create).
Maybe something like a background stand, and mount the strobes on either end and the camera in the middle of it, with the table under it.
https://www.efavormart.com/products/8ft-height-adjustable-crossbar-kit-backdrop-support-system-stand-with-free-clips
Use some kind of clamp to mount the lights and camera:
https://www.amazon.com/Manfrotto-035RL-Super-Clamp-Standard/dp/B0018LQVIA/ref=asc_df_B0018LQVIA/
https://www.amazon.com/Smallrig-Thread-Cameras-Umbrellas-Shelves/dp/B0062U2M4E/ref=asc_df_B0062U2M4E/
Note that I'm not recommending any of these specific products, just citing them as examples to get you started researching. Browse around the Smallrig site and see what they have:
https://www.smallrig.com/
It's actually an overhead setup. I got my Sony a6300 held by this arm and is held by the edge of my table wit this
You need three things:
I don't remember if the Alien Bees have an obvious place for the safety cable to attach (my Einsteins didn't). If there isn't a place you can get 120lb. strength zip ties from a local hardware store and run one through the umbrella holder on the strobe to make a loop and then safety cable around that zip tie.
Clamp to pole, use the magic arm to attach the light to the arm, and safety cable in case it comes loose.
This is very similar to lighting for basketball arenas. A friend of mine, Joel, has a great blog entry on how to set up a similar system for indoor sports.
Don't forget to come back and share photos of how it works out!
I just picked up a Manfrotto Super Clamp, and Heavy Duty Flex Arm. Haven't played with it much yet, but got some cool angles with it at the end of this video.
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Aluminum-Tripod-Stands-Softboxes-6-23/dp/B003I6ENXS/ref=sr_1_44?s=photo&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1466330295&amp;sr=1-44&amp;keywords=light+stand
https://www.amazon.com/PBL-Stands-Studio-Photographic-Lighting/dp/B007F0GBD8/ref=sr_1_22?s=photo&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1466330287&amp;sr=1-22&amp;keywords=light+stand
https://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Photography-Light-Stands-Cases/dp/B001WB02Z4/ref=sr_1_2?s=photo&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1466330083&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=light+stand
There are a few, hope that helps. I'd suggest getting a little ball joint for the top
I like both but for different reason. If I am going for a quick flight or during my lunch break. Then I take goggle diversity. If am doing a race day or a longer day or flying I take the ground station. I do like that my ground station is taller. I got a "photography light stand" off Amazon that extends up much higher than a standard tripod. https://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Photography-Light-Stands-Cases/dp/B001WB02Z4?th=1
Three light kit with led panels at 400 gonna be tough.
Just make sure you are getting reasonable cri, unlikely that low. Another option that would fit in that range would be something like this:
Softbox qty. 3
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DLVR1JK/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_VVTEDb9K7EDK0
Bulb quad splitter qty. 3
https://www.amazon.com/JACKYLED-Light-Bulb-Socket-Adapter/dp/B07BFMY8TR
Led bulbs, qty 12, two six packs
https://www.amazon.com/Hyperikon-Dimmable-Equivalent-Qualified-UL-Listed/dp/B0779C6F3Z
Dimmer qty. 3
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-TBL03-10E-Tabletop-Control-300-Watt/dp/B00A80756O
Cheapy stands, qty. 4 (at least one will break)
https://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Photography-Light-Stands-Cases/dp/B001WB02Z4
Add in some sandbags, extension cords, etc and up and running as cheap or cheaper than bad quality led panel lights. Not an elegant, durable, or great solution but way better than poor natural light and then can save up for proper lights at better budget maybe?
Yea I spent 2x that on a goddamn lens... lol. I ordered these and some joints for a travel kit. Now I need a tiny case.
I did some research and I found these ball mounts to be the best quality for the price.
I also bought a pair of these Aluminum Adjustable Light Stands as I will most likely be moving my lighthouses around.
Do these work with this brand or do I need something else?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001WB02Z4/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=3CMJOVFRS6QRR&amp;coliid=I1PA514E40S76H&amp;psc=1
There are cheap pairs you can find on amazon for about $35-40. I ordered a pair but was unhappy with the amount of wobble when extended at max height. Now returning those, I ended up spending a bit more for quality, these are the best I found. IMO, it's worth investing a bit more for something sturdy and quality built.
I have a shelf as well which this clamp will work nicely.
The Six Sages Gaming Set up!
Lights!
Lights Stand
Battery for Lights
Battery Charger
Mic Stand This will also need a camcorder attachment. Will require more research to find correct one
Camera!
Honestly, I think you’ll be unhappy going cheap in the beginning. You’ll probably want to upgrade later on, so you might want to save some extra money for better equipment. But if that’s not an option right now, I totally understand!
You really can’t go wrong with the Yongnuo flashes. Check those out to see which one fits your needs and is in your price range. These triggers are pretty decent. You’ll want a nice bracket for your umbrella and flash. These stands are also fairly decent.
Separate. Decent ones can be had for a reasonable price. These have worked fine for me although I only use them for taking the setup to other locations, not on a regular basis.
I use 3 of these cheap flash stands for a 3 sensor setup: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001WB02Z4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_T9832ejR5tXJB
Okay well I just ordered both!
This: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M07M9D4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
And This: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001WB02Z4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
These work really well for me in hours long sessions. They're cheap but very much sturdy enough: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001WB02Z4/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 (comes in a set of two so buy one)
I use these to mount the Lighthouses:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00VAH3KWC/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 (buy two as they're individually packaged)
You know what's funny, too, is these ended up being better than the bookshelf method as my shelves would vibrate with any activity in the room.
From the pictures he clipped them to the tops of some table stacks. Personally, I bought some light stands that do the trick pretty well.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001WB02Z4/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X5QO3B8/
I went with this pairing. I have wood floors and the lighthouses sway SLIGHTLY when I walk within a couple feet of them, however, I don't notice any tracking issues.
Really convenient for travel demoing and quick cleanup at home.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001WB02Z4/ref=s9_wish_gw_d45_g421_i2?pf_rd_p=1c5f02ae-183e-4906-990b-5a293310a66c&amp;pf_rd_s=blackjack-personal-1&amp;pf_rd_t=Gateway&amp;pf_rd_i=mobile&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=K40ZQMT3ASK90Y8NG88J.
I bought these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001WB02Z4/ref=od_aui_detailpages03?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
with the mini-ball adapters a couple years ago and have loved the mobility of it all. Also, I kinda like to redo my play area alot.. kinda nerdy.
Camera tripods seem to top out at 6 feet. HTC/Valve want you to mount them above you, angled down, for the largest tracking volume; as such, buying a light stand and an adapter might be cheaper and more effective. Here's a two-pack of cheap ones: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001WB02Z4/ref=s9_simh_gw_g421_i1_r?ie=UTF8&amp;fpl=fresh&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=desktop-1&amp;pf_rd_r=1VNP07M1Z4M3DWTKTV00&amp;pf_rd_t=36701&amp;pf_rd_p=2079475242&amp;pf_rd_i=desktop
You'll probably need an adapter to actually mount the Lighthouses on them, though. I'm still looking for a solution that's guaranteed to work.
$27 for a set of 2 photography light stands: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001WB02Z4
$10 for a pair of swivel mounts so you can angle the base stations however you like: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M07M9D4
One advantage with these over the other suggestion in this thread is that this setup doesn't need to touch the ceiling to work.
I can confirm these work great for bringing a Vive around to random places, and works well even on soft surfaces like carpet.
These are the light stands I use:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001WB02Z4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
These are the ball mounts I use:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M07M9D4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I don't have issues with them but they aren't my permanent solution. I bought them because I take my Vive to a lot of different places so it nice as a mobile solution. The ball mounts are great but I'm not use how the stands would do over long periods of time. But for now, they are perfect. They do however come with little draw strings bags that are pretty shitty.
December 8th, and a boy! Congrats! :D
$20
$40
When you bounce off a wall, you're simulating a much larger light source (the whole wall). Outdoors where there is nothing to bounce off of, try putting something large and translucent (a scrim) between your flash and your subject. Look at http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-110CM-Collapsible-Multi-Disc-Reflector/dp/B002ZIMEMW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1371494710&amp;sr=8-3 and http://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox--1-4872-Premium-Reflector-Collapsible/dp/B003Y2EOBW/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1371494710&amp;sr=8-5 and http://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-10BG-57-DIF-KIT-Collapsible-Diffuser-Lighting/dp/B003Y2KSF8/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1371494710&amp;sr=8-6
Or just make your own with some PVC pipe and white ripstop nylon. I'm sure you can find plans online for gratis.
The strobe illuminates the entire surface of the scrim, which then acts like a big sexy window light. This is what you want. If it's really sunny out, you can use one scrim to create portable open shade, and another to bounce the sun under it for fill light, and then you don't need a strobe at all. Just two or more minions to hold reflectors for you.
This! Because everyone could use a little bounce in their lives. :P
I'm a novice, but I've always liked doing portrait like shots, especially in sunlight, and would love one of these to try out.
"that was easy"
A picture of myself not so easy :(
http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-110CM-Collapsible-Multi-Disc-Reflector/dp/B002ZIMEMW/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&amp;colid=DERATFVJ39H3&amp;coliid=I3T241PV8QSZA5
You need something with a lot of zoom range, and the ability to slow motion down dramatically, without jumpy frames. The cheapest way to do this is with a DSLR.
Canon cameras do 60 frames per second, but only at 720p (which might be fine for what you're trying to do).
The GH3 can do 60 frames at 1080p, which is great, but you're going to blow your entire budget on the camera alone.
My recommendation is a t4i, and a kit lens, and an additional zoom. The low speed of the lens (meaning not good in low light) shouldn't be a problem if you're filming out on the golf course during the day.
I think the most important purchase you're going to make is a tripod that can let you get VERY low to the ground. I recommend the Manfrotto 055xPROB, sold here: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000UMX7FI/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_yKzTrb1FF869D
If you don't want to futz with separate audio systems, get a Juicedlink box, mount it under your camera, and run your lavalier mic into it.
Also, you must invest in a light-reflector. They are very cheap, and will make your videos look a thousand times better, by filling in the strong shadows that the sun makes. Seriously there is no reason for not buying one of these: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002ZIMEMW/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_YMzTrb0GDSEDR
Follow my advice. All this stuff will keep you under-budget, and gives you some expandability if you're happy with it. Let me know if you have any more questions.
Good luck!
Try this. Better than a homemade one, and only $10.
Hey guys, I have a really specific request for aid in equipment - I need a tripod-like device to hold a 41" Neewer circular reflector. Some like this but that's a 39.7" bar and my reflector is alas an inch and a half too long. (I assume it needs to be smaller than the cross bar, unless I don't hold it at the sides?)
This is the reflector I'm using that one needs to hold
Anyone got any recommendations?
The colors and tones are very nice!!
Overall I think positioning the model in a manner that increased the amount of light on their face would be beneficial. A typical roll of thumb for portraits as well is trying to prevent things from doing through the models head. The background here while nice and blurry is still distracting and doesn't particularly add anything to it. If the background isn't adding meaning to the picture itself then it should be used to help compose the image. Here you could have potentially used the background to frame the model.
The pose itself seems a little awkward, if I had to put words to it I'd say that your model looks disembodied due to the tight framing cutting them off (there's a reason headshots are typically centered!).
All in all the edit is great!! The background lighting works very well, and if you'd like to add some light on to the subjects face in a back lit situation look into using a reflector or even a cheap flash with a softbox modifier!
I've never used those but you could try taking a few shots to see how they come out. Or use one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-43-inch-Collapsible-Multi-Disc-Reflector/dp/B002ZIMEMW. Also read this: https://digital-photography-school.com/reflectors-secret-weapon-amazing-portrait-photography.
My recommendation: a multi-way light reflector
generally around $15, yet so freaking practical
No prob. And a fill is just like something white you can bounce light off of and onto your subject. Like a white board, stretched out sheet or something to that effect. Or you could buy one if you plan on getting into portrait photography.
Having a hard time seeing if that would help you out much with the shot you want to get but i figured it couldn't hurt to mention. :P
Thanks a bunch!
Every photo since 2013 makes use of these speedlites : http://www.amazon.ca/Neewer-Speedlite-Panasonic-Fujifilm-single-contact/dp/B004LEAYXY They are regarded as the best speedlites for their quality/price ratio.
I also bought these reflectors : http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-43-Inch-Collapsible-Multi-Disc-Reflector/dp/B002ZIMEMW
I had the silver one positioned at a 45 deg. angle acting as a key light, reflecting the sun coming out the window.
I'm playing with some umbrellas and softboxes these days, but I'm achieving a lot already with my speedlites and reflectors.
Good luck!
Get a circular reflector set. Those can be had for as low as 15-20 EUR/USD per set.
You're biggest problem will not be the microphone, but what you're recording your audio onto. I found out really quick that the audio recording of a DSLR, regardless of microphone, is terrible in quality and with plenty of static noise. I use a Tascam DR-05 to record audio, in combination with either a RODE VideoMic or a lavalier (there are some really cheap ones that do an ok job for low budget productions). The Tascam DR-05 also has a pretty good mic built in , so you could probably start with just that. Remember to record the audio with your Tascam (or recorder) AND with your camera, so that you can easily sync them in post. Always remember to record a minute of silence in the room BEFORE filming so that you can have a room tone (or world tone, if outdoors) sample that can be for adding a more natural ambient sound for portions you may silence in the video.
I would also recommend you pick up:
a three point lighting kit for indoor shooting (like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Fancierstudio-Lighting-Hairlight-Softbox-9004SB2/dp/B0047FHOWG/ref=sr_1_4?s=photo&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1450430338&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=three+point+lighting+kit),
a variable ND filter for outdoor shooting (like this one: http://www.amazon.com/58mm-Variable-NDX-Fader-Filter/dp/B00QVOQWM4/ref=sr_1_7?s=photo&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1450430377&amp;sr=1-7&amp;keywords=variable+ND+filter)
a reflector, for bouncing off light outdoors... (like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-43-inch-Collapsible-Multi-Disc-Reflector/dp/B002ZIMEMW/ref=sr_1_1?s=photo&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1450430475&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=reflector)
Extra batteries of course.
You'll find these tools useful for getting higher quality audio and picture, there are lots and lots of tutorials on YouTube that will help you learn very quickly how to use your equipment. On a final note, I don't think the Rebel SL1 was a good choice of camera. If I had to pick a Rebel camera for video, and was limited in buget, I would have gone for a Rebel T4i or T5i, in combination with magic lantern. Another important thing to remember, is make sure your SD is AT LEAST class 10 (I recommend Sandisk Extreme pro 95/mbps 32 or 64gb), and NEVER use a mini sd card with an adapter (I've had bad experiences with this).
Best of luck to you, and happy filming!
The light is way too harsh on her face, causing some pretty dark shadows. As someone else mentioned, a reflector would have helped a lot, like this
You don't want to have your model facing the sun so much that she squints. Also, I think the color of her shirt isn't the best for her skin tone and surroundings. There's not a lot of contrast between her and the background. On the plus side, I do like the natural pose.
I was using Profoto gear that my school provided. I'm not sure of any resources for studio classes outside of college, but I know they exist. Most major cities have photography or art communities that offer classes and workshops for the general public. But you don't need fancy lights to shoot product natural light and a diffuser will work wonders.
(Not the original commenter, but I thought I could help out a bit)
I'm sorry if I come off as mean or anything. I'm really just trying to help you become as good a filmmaker as you can be. Don't be discouraged and I urge you to just keep making films (practice practice practice).
Let me know if you have any questions.
I'm trying to up my portrait photography game.
The baby is lying beside a full-length window (sliding glass door). I made a light reflector out of tinfoil, to try and prevent the shadows from becoming too deep--would an actual light reflector (like this one--I'm not looking at spending a lot) look much different?
Shot on a canon DSLR D-60 with a 24mm pancake lens.
Any other feedback would be appreciated!
You could always just get reflectors, they are super cheap on Amazon. It looks like this set on Amazon is just $20:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002ZIMEMW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
The only issue is that you'd need a stand to hold the reflectors which is more pricey or you'd need someone else to help out and hold your reflector. There are special reflectors that can be held with one hand and your camera with the other hand but if you are using a big lens then I would think it would be difficult to use both at the same time.
The wide crop works well for leading your eyes for sure and would say looks better. It looks like some of the detail is back in the flowers, but still not very high. I believe that is due more to it being bright outside and just having detail bled out from the sun. Thinking about that did remind me, that if you have a light reflector with a translucent/shoot through (something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002ZIMEMW) you could have someone going around shading the plants for you so you have even lighting, but this could cause it to be too dark? You'd have to see, but the use of another reflector and then you could throw controlled light back in or use a flash to get the lighting desired.
Audio is everything.
Also, buy this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002ZIMEMW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I purchased that reflector when I started shooting seriously about 5 years ago, and I still use it regularly. It reflects, it diffuses, it flags, and it fits in most bags.
Sorry for the delay. Here you go:
Lights
reflector
reflector holder -not necessary but very useful if you don't have a helper.
I have these plus two of these which are cheaper if you need two stands. That said, anytime these are bumped, your whole world will shake around (and I suspect bumpings will be commonplace if your dorm is a typical on), so if possible, you should probably use shower-rod-style stands like what /u/Decapper linked, or one of these to set on top of a bookshelf or something, or clamps something along the lines of this.
Specifically, look into light stand tripods (instead of regular camera tripods) because they will be cheaper and lighter since they don't need to hold the weight of a heavy camera, but are more than fine for the base stations. This one is 6 feet, but they also have 8-9 feet versions available. If you search r/Vive/ for Neewer, I'm sure you'll find a few of us who went this route. You'll just want to buy a couple of 1/4" ball mount to attach to the ends of these light stands. EDIT: Conveniently at the 'frequently bought together' section.
http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Aluminum-Tripod-Stands-Softboxes-6-23/dp/B003I6ENXS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464029196
I bought these tripods for $22 USD ($31 CAD). They work perfectly. I had bought some adapters so that I could tilt the lighthouses, but they were shipped separately and came a bit later. It turned out that the lighthouses don't need to be tilted, at least not at 6 and a half feet high. They were able to track the floor when screwed straight on top of the tripods without any problem.
If you're on a budget they're a great option. The disadvantage is the floor estate. I'd say they use up about 2 feet of floor space under each tripod.
I'm in an apartment and don't want to put holes in the walls if I can help it.
I'm looking at these but not sure if I need additional hardware to mount the sensors.
edit: I have located a russian solution: https://cdn3.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/3LA_wO_fv_2p4pknYrQvlpLZg8A=/cdn0.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/6121549/Screen_Shot_2016-02-29_at_11.33.18_AM.0.png
I am trying to do a complete carry-on ultra-lightweight interview kit. So I'm an old guy, and not a big guy. But I wanted something I could single-handedly carry on a plane, on a bus, in a cab, as a pedestrian. It should be no more than two cases and I should be able to carry them in one hand while carrying a personal bag in the other. It had to be everything needed for talking head interviews including lights, camera and sound. That means my setup is much more restrictive than yours, but it works. This effort is based on doing quite a few films in Europe using only what I could carry.
Nothing I could find really made it easy. The biggest problem has been powering options, so I made the decision that it had to be small fixtures that could be used close to the subject with reasonable running time. Everything had to be battery-powered no cables or outboard power supplies were needed.
I bring 3 lights and 3 stands. This light is a fairly soft key, adjustable, 18-watts, built-in rechargeable battery. Then I have three of these very small point-source lights, (also with built-in batteries and they come with a variety of gels). One of these is used as a backlight, another for possible light for a background. Add these for mounting one or two of these Lowel umbrellas. These turn the point-lights into a nice, soft fill. Each of these lights will run 60 minutes or more at full power, much longer if reduced. Also, running time can be extended with a couple of these. I can get nice exposure and shallow depth-of-field at ISO 400 or 800. (Double or quadruple operating time at ISO 1600.)
Amazon has this light case that is checkable and can hold this lightweight Velbon tripod with a fluid head plus three or even four of these Neewer stands plus some gels and a small roll of gaffer tape.
My camera case is a small older one with a Nikon label. It holds my Panasonic GH4 or GH5 with 12-60mm lens plus 3 batteries and a USB-powered charger. There's also room for all the lights, an iPad, and a 4-port USB charger, which charges everything.
And...(are you ready for this?) the sound is in this kit, too. The secret here is the PicoGear PicoMic dual wireless mic system. This thing really does what it claims: two wireless mics with good range and run all day and the whole system goes in your pocket, plus the bonus of no body pack or cables to hide.
I'd appreciate your comments.
I think the lighthouses might vibrate too much for a suction cup. Also, I can think of other things that vibrate and have a suction cup, maybe you don't want your lighthouses to resemble those in any way.
edit: Also, my experience with suction cups on car gadgets is they always vibrate loose eventually.
I use these, with some cheap $8 ball mounts. https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Aluminum-Tripod-Stands-Softboxes-6-23/dp/B003I6ENXS/
They've been fine so far, but I haven't moved them around or set them up multiple times, so I don't know if they'd hold up to travel. Probably not, at that price. I'm positive the cheap ball mounts would never handle being set up and adjusted too many times.
Or you could use tripods, or these thingeys
what about these? Planning on this since i have amazon prime
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003I6ENXS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012FTXOW4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=AK3KRUMMFC0QT
These are the poles I bought for just $35 CAN for 2:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B003I6ENXS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Will these work or would I need something else?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012FTXOW4/ref=s9_top_hd_bw_bE2sh_g421_i3?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-2&amp;pf_rd_r=0F2EMWB60B8QRG3XWZN5&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_p=2223061922&amp;pf_rd_i=3347671
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003I6ENXS?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Camera stands are heavy and not cheap. Buy rather flash stands, they are much cheaper and lightweight and usually can reach 2+ meter height. I used https://img.elmit.sk/images/Viazacia_paska_cierna.jpg
to mount base station onto stand. (Sorry dont know how its called in english language :D )
example of flash stand:
https://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Aluminum-Adjustable-Light-Stand/dp/B003PEUA30/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1472702436&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=flash+stand
For anyone looking for stands, I would recommend these combined withthe ball head mounts that OP linked.
Fair bit cheaper, perfectly adequate quality.
Sure, they are all estimates so I wont be too upset either way. But sure I will post mine when it comes. :)
Looking forward to it, I picked up a light stand that arrived yesterday for like $20, specifically for demo parties to put the sensor on for standing experiences and still keep the sensor a foot above head level.
http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Aluminum-Adjustable-Light-Stand/dp/B003PEUA30?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
The thing is lightweight and very cool, comes with a sleeve to put it in, standard 1/4-20 mount so it will work with the Sensor. I am 6'2 and this this will go taller than I am.
I will probably grab another when the Touch comes out
These are working just fine for me, just slap on a cheap 1/4" ball joint adapter.
http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Aluminum-Adjustable-Light-Stand/dp/B003PEUA30/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462988508&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Cowboy+Studio+Light+Stand
You could also use a cheap light stand like this if you are in a flat stable place.
You'll want something like this.
Make your own fancy lighting system. Get a clamp light (http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/1000/98/98953a1f-cd8e-4461-818d-6c875f73f8c3_1000.jpg) and put an LED bulb in it (to minimize heat output).
Clip it to this which is about the cheapest light stand you're ever going to find.
Now you have a cheap key light.
Get another clamp light and stand, take a clothespin and clip a used dryer sheet (this is why you use LED - a regular bulb will make the dryer sheet start to smoke after awhile, which tends to alarm your subject) over the front of the light. You now have a scrim which gives you a cheap fill light.
If you're feeling really ambitious, hook the light up to an extension cord. Get a surface-mount switch box, cut the extension cord's black wire in half, put a dimmer switch in the box, and wire the switch to the cord. Now you have a dimmable scrimmed fill light.
A third light (this one should definitely be dimmable) on a stand with no scrim can serve as a hair light.
Then go here to learn how to effectively set up your new lights.
I didn't want to buy anything expensive. I ended up getting this light stand - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003PEUA30/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
hoping someone on this subreddit can help. i purchased this tripod on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003PEUA30/
however, i didn't realize that the top part of it was threaded at the very top. i'm trying to find something to cover that is the same width as the part connecting to it. i know it's 1/4" thread and unfortunately i can't saw it off since i don't have one.. any ideas?
These are things I bought that work great.
First, the stands;
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003PEUA30/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Then the adaptor;
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X5QO3B8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
And finally the finishing touch for the headpiece;
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000F8V66O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
That's everything you need. But yeah, get them high up, pointing down a bit, and make sure on sturdy flooring so as you're jumping around they don't carry the vibration over and judder.
No flourescent, Led or Big Ol' Tungsten's hanging in warms spots throughout the warehouse would make it lovely and more cozy, while keeping it gritty. Bring back that warm light and it will automatically feel and look more photogenic. Pepper in smaller lights mixed with larger lights to give a really photogenic shot.
For lighting on that wall, You have two options. If you don't light the wall, grab two lights and post them at 45 degree angles from the center vertex. Keep a ratio of about 1/2 between the lights. Tweak the distance and light. Get the lights, get two stands, get two umbrellas, and a way to trigger the lights with your camera. Play around, you'll immediately find yourself with improved shots. You can get this set-up pretty cheap through Cowboy Photo Studios.
https://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Photography-Portrait-Umbrella-Continuous/dp/B003WLY24O
Continous CFL lights. Not amazing, but if you adjust the white balance, it won't matter what the color looks like. That is one thing you can do now. Adjust the color balance on your camera or phone, they should have something for Fluorescent and do it. Remove that green!
Now if you've got more time and money, you can buy 2 more lights and a softbox. My favorite set-up is super simple, two lights blasting the back wall. Keep the product distanced from the wall a bit on a white table with a sheet of white reflective vinyl. Add one softbox and light 45 degrees of center. Photographs=Instant Magic.
Sorry some effort involved, but change your white balance today! Google it and your camera if you are unsure.
I am looking for some input on a cheap umbrella lighting kit versus a decent add-on flash for my DSLR. I was looking at getting a lighting kit like this:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003WLY24O/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=3BEPADCNG466L&amp;coliid=I3QAC42G79T1CA&amp;psc=1
However, I saw some comments saying I would be happier with the more versatile add-on flash that costs a fair amount more.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CCAISE/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=3BEPADCNG466L&amp;coliid=I2T75QSPRHX8UX
At least in terms of video - pay attention to your white-balance. You're moving between different frequencies of light in your shots (bedroom -> bathroom -> outdoors), and because of that the tone of your video changes a ton.
You can invest in a relatively cheap light studio that I've found very useful for shoots. It would at least help in some of the darker shots (e.g. bedroom).
Thanks a lot for your input! I looked at the ART lenses from sigma, and wow...you really can't tell the difference. I may just buy that for $1000 and spend more on my lighting gear.
I've looked at the different types of umbrellas, and I feel like the white one will be more versatile for me. How is this for a beginner? Would you recommend anything better? Also, something else on my list is to replace my my tripod for a bigger heavier one. is there any you would recommend for under $100?
something like this http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Photography-Portrait-Umbrella-Continuous/dp/B003WLY24O
Three-point lighting is your best scenario when it comes to lighting a green screen. You want to have yourself be distinguished from the green screen as much as possible.
What I use is this set up here :(http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Photography-Portrait-Continuous-Umbrellas/dp/B003WLY24O)
One light in the front, the other two off to either side of yourself. If it still isn't enough, you need to light the screen as well. A simple light behind you is enough. Lighting is all you should spend on a setup. Green screens can be simple sheets of color, blue or green preferably.
Not OP, but what do you think about me purchasing this ??
I need to film a scene inside a caravan, and I've been looking at this one too, but I don't think it'll fit inside. Thoughts?
Ideally a soft box or umbrella kit are the best because they diffuse the light making it look soft and 'natural' rather than harsh. AngelPawz linked an excellent kit, but personally I only use a single umbrella from this kit and it works well enough for me.
Another thing to consider is 'back lighting' your green screen. Set up a light behind yourself that evenly lights your green screen while not being on cam and you're all set. Even lighting on the green screen is the most important factor of a nice chroma key.
As for the Krakens the easiest alternative is using a blue bedsheet instead of a green one. Any color background can be chroma keyed out but green and blue are the best as they don't naturally occur in human skin.
How familiar are you with SLRs in general? If you already know what your doing go for it. If not, your better off getting one of the Sony or Canon camcorders.
But since I know your budget I'd reccomend this mic running into this recorder. You can hear and audio sample here.
This is a nice simple/cheap lighting kit.
That will leave around $650 for a camera.
You can change up the lights a bit if you need more money for a camera. You can get this and this to diffuse the third light since the kit only comes with 2 umbrellas.
This is it. Looks to be pretty good quality...Everything seems pretty sturdy
For my personal use (not for the booth, as my boss provides that stuff), I have THESE, which would probably work quite well. They're not the fanciest out there, but they're bright enough and sturdy enough to get the job done.
Wow.. This is the very first informative comment I ever got. thank you so much for that. I will see if I can increase the lightning.. Cos the light's I bought were super cheap stuff of Amazon. This one. Also I'm not expert on Camera or Lighting (film making) etc.. I just learned all that in past few months when he wanted to do these videos. So learning about stuff while working at real job. About his bullet points... he does not have any script, As English is my second language + I want to keep it original as he like's it, I don't correct him. He just prepares himself before i start recording. Its all Natural. no script :) . Intro with PS CS6 and Editing of videos with Premier pro. (Learned for him, seeing tutorials on YouTube and Sub reddits here). About the camera: I wanted something small which I can carry in my pocket if necessary + I wanted DSLR Quality.. (never a big fan of Large cameras) So I went with Canon EOS-M2 and most of the time (Almost all the time) I use EF-M 22mm f/2 STM Lens No filters, MIC is This one And Still don't know about the Temperature of the lights... (Now i have learn about that :) let me know if you any more questions about camera or anything else. Once again... Thank you so so much for the feed back. It really helps. have a great day. EDIT: Recently I Started using CineStyle Format and their LUT to color Grade.
Word. This is the light kit. I also upgraded the lights.
Hiking/Outdoor stuff:
• North Face Elkhorn 0 Degree Regular bag with Granite Gear Sil Nylon stuff sack - $50
• Kelty Redwing 50 Backpack with Rain cover - $80
• 2 x Hennessy Safari Deluxe Asym Zip hammocks. [Green one](https://imgur.com/YK59Pid
) has a slight tear in the webbing by the top, $100. Black one is in good shape, $150.
Random:
• [Vintage Radiant Projector Screen] (http://imgur.com/knO8PAo) - FREEEEE
• Photography Umbrella lights - used twice- FREEEEEE
• Exercise Rings - $20
• Department 56 Snow Village Lot - $175
http://amzn.com/B003WLY24O
This.
I waaaant it lol
I use this: http://amzn.com/B003WLY24O
With upgraded bulbs: http://amzn.com/B00947YBV4
In use: http://youtu.be/FDKCvCQzkTk
Thanks again. If I go with the DR-70D, is it a bad idea to have the audio recorded into the DSLR as opposed to having the audio recorded separately on an sd card and having to do the pairing with the images in post production? And for the lights, do you think I could regret buying this one?
Thanks for that I haven't exactly settled on the Camera I am going to use but it's possibly a Canon 80D (I'm friends with a Pro Tog and he's let me play with his) at the moment I'm practicing with my Fujifilm X100T (I know it's not an ideal film camera, but it's all I have at the moment), so once I get that I'll start playing around with different set ups.
As for lighting - I was looking at getting a few of these from Neewer to allow me to play around with light temperatures.
Are there any guides to the terminology and basic techniques you could recommend?
Yes, thank you that helps alot! I was looking abround some more and found these things
phone cage with 2 lenses
light - and maybe the charger/softbox combo
And a mic
Total price would be around $200 so I can work with that. And yes I will just have to show them the ropes a bit on how to get the best possible video.
Thanks so much for your help!
Dude, cn-160 - this will be your back light savior.
http://www.amazon.com/NEEWER%C2%AE-Dimmable-Digital-Camcorder-Panasonic/dp/B004TJ6JH6
So I have a 10 and 15 extension tube, and borrowing my friends macro (100mm). Is it really that easy to nab shots from film strip like that?
Of course, dude! It may not match the style you're looking for, but check out some of the LED banks that mount to a hotshoe adapter. I mussed around with one in undergrad and they're pretty nifty, especially if you get one with a slide or wheel brightness adjuster. Some even come with plastic covers that act as warm/cool/tone gels.
Kind of like this one.
I agree with you there about feedback. Honesty is key but there is literally never a time you can't serve the compliment sandwich. (Solid criticism buns with a meaty compliment in the middle). Never a need to be rude to people.
Keep killing it on the videos!
Drop the long intro - 14 seconds before you are on screen is too long.
Learn to light as well, even if it's using something cheap like these http://www.amazon.co.uk/Dimmable-Digital-Camcorder-Panasonic-Samsung/dp/B004TJ6JH6 in a two or three point set up.
I would say not bad for your first job. The first thing is the audio, do your best to never use audio that isn't a Lav mic or a shotgun/boom mic very close the subject. If you're forced to use the Zoom, buy a dirt cheap XLR mic to plug into like this one XLR Mic.
Also wouldn't hurt to invest in a dirt cheap light panel like this one Light Panel and stand as well which you can get on Amazon for less than 50 bucks. The shots looked under lit and could have benefited from a different background, a window is never a good idea and didn't really fit the subject matter. Maybe shooting them in a lab setting would have been better since it's relative to the subject. You want to create a feel or mood when you create a video and the more you can put them in a medical environment, the more legit they will seem.
Lastly, the shot of the person working in the lab never fully racked into focus, focus is critical with big clients and every shot has to have a crisp focus.
Hope I wasn't too harsh, it beats the first videos I ever created by a mile. Good Luck.
$30!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_oNmxxb0PD8DYB
I've been meaning to write up a guide for this...
If you Google around for cheap light kits, you'll see a lot of "clamp light" builds. I recommend skipping those. Knockoff LED panels have gotten good enough that I think you're better off buying them instead. The clamp lights, to me, are more pieces and trouble to set up, tear down, and travel with than they're worth and they look extremely amateur, which is a problem if you're doing corporate work.
Before you begin, the key to remember is that the smaller the frame, the more cheaply it can be lit. Shoot tight to make your cheap lighting go further and look better.
First, use the sun. Position your subject as if the sun is your key - around to the side a bit so you get some light wrapping. Then bring in your popup light modifier and stand and set it up to diffuse the sun. This almost always looks great and is very cheap and easy to set up.
Next, get a bucket of CN160s and some knockoff Sony NP batteries. Shoot a few of them through your diffusion ring to get a bright enough key, then bounce the rest of them off of white foamcore to get nice fill lights and to fill in the room.
$200 or so will get you pretty well set up - less depending on how many LED panels you want. It's hardly the BEST kit, but it's an excellent, effective, and compact CHEAP kit.
As far as accessories, besides maybe extra battery and some memory cards you should be really good to go. If you want some nice straps/ clips/ bags, Peak Design has some really nice stuff. As far as video, it can go as deep as you want it to go, it really depends on what you want to do, if you just want a simple documentary/ youtube video set up you could just get a simple Rode Mic and maybe an little LED panel but if you are trying to make like short films, then you'll probably need a lot more lightning/ audio equipment
I use these two things for my lighting, no experience in desk lighting though.
https://www.amazon.com/Dimmable-Digital-Camcorder-Panasonic-Samsung/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510389649&amp;sr=8-9&amp;keywords=camera+lighting
(You're gonna need a light stand to attach it to as well)
&
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Neewer-400W-5500K-Dimmable-Ring-Fluorescent-Flash-Light-Video-Light/381214564258?_trkparms=aid%3D555019%26algo%3DPL.BANDIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D41375%26meid%3Ded2741e500984b038a0961cb29c188bd%26pid%3D100506%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26&amp;_trksid=p2045573.c100506.m3226
My area is pretty cramped too and it doesn't take up too much space.
Ah, I see. So something similar to this, but designed for a garage instead of a photo studio?
I don't think anyone is making those with modern Cree LEDs. Everything that I've seen has been an array of 5mm LEDs. There might be something with COB-style LEDs however. Closest I can find is a 12v COB floodlamp. That'll be around 800-900 lumens but you'll need to slap together a battery pack and hanging hook. (Those also come in 120V AC versions, if a corded light is acceptable.)
edit: Not a trouble light, but maybe this?
Do you mean these? https://www.amazon.com/Photography-Portrait-Continuous-LimoStudio-LMS103/dp/B005FHZ2SI
Those are what I have in my wishlist but I won't really have room for them. Also, I don't know if I can use LED strips since I'm renting. Don't they require being drilled into the wall?
I'm getting pretty frustrated the quality of my photos, especially with brighter, neon, or pastel clothes. I'm currently using these + a white sheet flat lay + iPhone 8 camera. I try to take photos in the lightest part of my house, but it's gray as hell where I am during this time of year. Any suggestions on improving my setup or technique? TIA.
I would suggest that you try it yourself if you have a DSLR (maybe even try it with your smartphone camera if you don't have a DSLR). It takes time, but it can save a lot of money. Unless you go to somewhere like Fiverr, even the cheapest photographers you will find IRL will charge hundreds. Seriously professional ones like to charge thousands. Here's an outline if you're interested:
If you're not interesting in going DIY for this because you don't have a camera or the time, DM me; I've been doing product photography for about 4 years and Photoshop for 8. I have a Fiverr listing you may be interested in, but I won't link to here since I know the subreddit rules. If you're not interested, no worries.
Product Photography is a huge category on Fiverr, I suggest you look around. If it's not an extremely valuable one-of-a-kind item for Etsy or something, then it makes sense to bet about $10 + the price of your item, instead of immediately going to a full-fledged product photographer and spending hundreds.
Trying to set up to take photographs of my watercolor paintings to produce digital copies that I can make prints from. I am open to buying stuff if I need to, but if possible would like to use what I already have. My main concerns are accurate colors, even lighting and of course a sharp image without distortion. Will be editing in Adobe Photoshop. I am by no means a good photographer, but I am a bit familiar with manual settings. Both my brother and dad were into photography at some point, so I have access to some gear.
I have:
Nikon D7100
50mm f/1.8 and a 50mm f/1.4 G
35mm f/1.8 G
85mm f/3.5 G ED macro
4 tripods
3500K light bulbs
A wall to attach paintings to
My current plan is to use the 50mm f/1.4 lens on a tripod about 3ft away from the wall - or at a distance where the painting fills most of the viewfinder. I put two 3500k lights on tripods and will have one on both sides ideally at a 45 degree angle (or less?). Will be shooting raw and at iso 100 - that's about the extent of my plan but I am trying to do more research for the best set up.
My questions are: Would some sort of color balance or grey card help? I am not exactly familiar with how something like this works but I've seen them mentioned in a few places online - it seems expensive but accurate colors is important to me.
Should I get something to diffuse the lights? I am almost just considering getting something like this if that would be sufficient.
Any critique of my plan or other tips on photographing artwork would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
I am looking to get some lighting gear like this. However, I already have some stands and umbrellas - what is the thing I would be looking to buy if I were only looking for the head (that would hold a light bulb)? Also, what kind of light bulbs should I look for?
These are a little cheaper and work exactly the same: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005FHZ2SI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_oZybzbZ9XAP4V Just make sure they're about at a 45° angle to you on either side, a little above your head. And make sure the green screen is back just enough so you're not casting any dark or large shadows on it
I also do the youtubes. I use this cheap and reliable light kit from amazon.
I am working on a series of YouTube videos. We want an infinite white background but we cannot seem to get it that "infinite white" color. I cannot afford to spend any more right now. Is there any type of post-processing that can be done to achieve that color or a way to overexpose the background in the camera? I tried spot and center-weighted metering, but nothing seems to work. I just want a headshot, not full-body. I'm completely willing to re-arrange the lights in any order necessary to achieve this.
Here are the details:
Really bad mouse-drawn schematic: http://imgur.com/DNvNL21
Current picture of background: http://imgur.com/qjQ6B99
Equipment:
Muslin Background
Lighting Kit 1
Lighting Kit 2
Adobe Premiere CS6
Nikon D3200
Thank you so much in advance!
This one looks good in that price range.
Photography Photo Portrait Studio 600W Day Light Umbrella Continuous Lighting Kit by LimoStudio, LMS103 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005FHZ2SI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7WkdzbE542YXW
Make sure you get daylight if you are mixing with windows. Some CFLs will be way too warm to mix.
I think for your budget, you'll get more light going with CFLs. It'll be a little warmer, but not searingly hot.
I prefer OBS for software. It's lightweight, easy to use, and gets the job done. XSplit is a bit more feature rich but for most people's uses OBS will work.
As far as your camera, if you want to do a camera setup the most important thing is lighting. Really any HD webcam - I prefer Logitech models - up through an actually professional camera will work. I like using a greenscreen but regardless of if you use one or not you have to have good lighting. Using normal household lighting might work, but I'd suggest getting some cheap studio lights. I picked up this and it works just fine.
It takes a lot of work to get lighting and camera settings just right, so just take your time and work on it. I'm still not 100% happy with my setup, but that's something I'm going to be working on while I'm on a break from streaming.
That lighting backdrop looks good. You'll then need to solve the problem of softening light sources on the sides. You could do the backdrop and use a larger box with paper windows to diffuse light, or pick up some continuous lighting and umbrellas.
http://www.amazon.com/LimoStudio-Photography-Portrait-Umbrella-Continuous-Lighting/dp/B005FHZ2SI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1421634201&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Continuous+lighting
As far as cameras go, you don't need latest and greatest. Get a model a few years old and a telephoto lens. I would suggest something with live View so you can judge exposure. I would actually say that in your situation, a decent Micro 4/3s camera would be perfect. Even a Sony NEX would be fine. They are both interchangeable lens cameras. They both offer cheap telephotos too. Again, you don't really need a macro lens.
http://www.amazon.com/Sony-NEX-5TL-Compact-Interchangeable-Digital/dp/B00ENZRP38/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1421634410&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Sony+nex
http://www.amazon.com/Sony-55-210mm-F4-5-6-3-E-Mount-Cameras/dp/B00HNJWSDS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1421634575&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=Sony+NEX+telephoto
Thanks ! This is what I have at the moment.
Photography Photo Portrait Studio 600W Day Light Umbrella Continuous Lighting Kit by LimoStudio LMS103 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005FHZ2SI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_uDpCwbFP3M7R2
And I have a seamless bright white paper background. I also have 2 additional smaller lights....same company, same color.
Lighting for sure, I use this and it works alright https://www.amazon.com/Photography-Portrait-Continuous-LimoStudio-LMS103/dp/B005FHZ2SI/ref=sr_1_3?s=photo&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478746071&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=Studio+lighting
Thanks
This lighting kit; I'm mostly doing outdoor/macro photography, but if I expand to portraits I could actually be making some money out of all this.
> would this be a good place to start? (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005FHZ2SI/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?
Not really. Overall output is pretty low so it won't help much, and it doesn't look like you can control the amount of output either, which is really important.
Unfortunately the cheapest good option costs somewhat more.
> Also for video work would these lights be a good set up? (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050K3DW2/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=12ABU74GX8YT&amp;coliid=IXN17S7HHO3QY)
Don't know much about video. Looks like those have higher output which is good, but still no output control. And why not use the same set for both video and stills?
I use my phone. I've had a couple of high end Panasonic and Canon DSLRs, but I switched to just using my phone a while back. The higher end models have a "pro" mode that will let you adjust just about everything. Most of my pictures come out super clear with an almost invisible background.
If you want to stick with your camera and just need more light different light boxes could help or maybe a light ring. Good deals on Amazon and eBay.
You could also just take pictures in natural light if that is at all possible.
I'm currently using a Samsung Galaxy S8+ and I was using these lights https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005FHZ2SI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8GpaBbWCXSDTK until a few days ago when I found this kit in a Goodwill https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008GWH7VE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GJpaBbG4K66S8
I agree about the background, but it was my only option since my house is so dark! It's funny because just this morning I ordered this kit:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FHZ2SI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I'm pretty excited about it. I feel like I can't get much detail from my pics, and figured getting a solid background would improve things tons, as well as less distracting. Plus i can't for the life of me get a good pic of a solid black or white garment outside.
I use my galaxy s4. I know other sellers use their cell phones as well, and I personally don't intend to change that. I don't feel like getting a nice expensive camera isn't in the cards for me at the moment. Plus it's super convenient for me to use my phone.
I've been using this: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FHZ2SI/ and it's been great so far. I'm not a skilled photographer, but this lighting really did make a difference.
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Description|Shelly sketches the faces in preparation of acrylic painting her subjects' caricature like portraits. Watch her detailed demonstration on her technique that she uses on her abstract portraits prior to acrylic painting.⤶⤶⤶*****⤶Check out our Amazon recommendations on Kit!⤶⤶▶ Check out our recommendations on Kit: https://kit.com/LifeCreatesArt⤶⤶Links provide a small commission & will allow us to continue content like this!⤶⤶**⤶Equipment we use for our videos:⤶Lights⤶Photography Photo Portrait Studio 600W Day Light Umbrella Continuous Lighting Kit by LimoStudio, LMS103⤶https://amzn.to/2KiN7zs (affiliate)⤶⤶Microphones⤶For Interviews!⤶Lavalier Lapel Microphone 2-Pack Complete Set - Omnidirectional Mic for Desktop PC Computer, Mac, Smartphone, iPhone, GoPro, DSLR, Camcorder for Podcast, Youtube, Vlogging, and DJs⤶https://amzn.to/31jgwiD (affiliate)⤶BOYA BY-M1 3.5mm Electret Condenser Microphone with 1/4" adapter for Smartphones iPhone DSLR Cameras PC⤶https://amzn.to/2GMXo4K (affiliate)⤶⤶Camera⤶Canon PowerShot SX730 Digital Camera w/40x Optical Zoom⤶https://amzn.to/31lORh6 (affiliate)⤶⤶https://amzn.to/31kl5ZXLife Creates Art⤶⤶https://www.youtube.com/c/LifeCreatesArt⤶Website: https://life-creates-art.business.site/⤶Facebook @artlifebyshelly⤶Twitter @creates_art⤶Instagram instagram.com/shellyslifecreatesart⤶⤶Attribution⤶Stock images provided by pixabay.com
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I have this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FHZ2SI
I used to use a remote but I had to hide it in the pics so now I use voice commands or Android phones have a feature to take a pic when you place your hand in front of you, thats quite helpful.
It depends. you can get away with it with regular house lamps, or get a lighting kit
here is one i bough, but takes a bit of room . If going with regular house lamps, make sure it casts light evenly and does that you dont cast a shadow on the screen.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FHZ2SI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 They sometimes go on sale , and i was lucky to get mine for 35 dollars. Very good lighting!
would you guys recommend this?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FHZ2SI?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00
Here is the mobile version of your link
Buy a green screen like this one about $60 and a cheap webcam for $50 and for lighting $60
Will this light kit be adequate for small product photography for creating that seamless white background effect? Specifically fishing lures for a web store. I would get one of those soft box kits but I would like to use these lights for other things. Like setting up a green screen studio for my young nieces and nephews. Thanks
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FHZ2SI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=APGNKGIBL58YH
Thank you for your insight. It's given me something to think about. I think I'm going with the Panasonic now. Here's the list I've gathered:
Panasonic G7
White balance card
[This](
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FHZ2SI/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=9325&amp;creativeASIN=B005FHZ2SI&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=battleforthew-20) lighting set.
Amazon basics tripod
Whatever the shotgun mic will be
No extra lenses for now
Some bag
u/valltekk Just to chime in with my limited experience but hours upon hours of researching tripods, I agree, don't go too cheap. I was going to get an Amazon Basics tripod, they had it listed as a bestseller with like 4k reviews...until I read the 1 star reviews. Tons of people complaining about an arm or other failure causing the tripod to collapse and smash their gear.
I ended up getting a Manftotto 290 light, it's aluminum and can only hold 8 lbs of gear but it's also half the price.
I also bought some portrait lights that were super cheap, like $50 for three stands and two umbrellas. They're not bad for the price but I recently got a speedlite and a mount for that and they are too flimsy to hold it and the softbox. Keep in mind though, the speedlite and softbox are a lot heavier than the lights and fixtures it comes with.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FHZ2SI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
For a starter set, I went with yongnuo speed lights and cheap stands and umbrellas from Amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015ZALVI4/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1453912336&amp;amp;sr=8-2&amp;amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;amp;keywords=yongnuo+560+iv&amp;amp;dpPl=1&amp;amp;dpID=51z85GnO1DL&amp;amp;ref=plSrch
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005FHZ2SI/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1453912456&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;amp;keywords=light+stands+for+photography&amp;amp;dpPl=1&amp;amp;dpID=51fq2%2ByrrcL&amp;amp;ref=plSrch
I bought the flash and trigger separate but since found this deal for two speed lights and the trigger, saves you a few bucks. They are quite good for the price. Keep in mind they are manual flashes
Also, there is a "frequently bought together" suggestion with the speed lights. You'll need the hot shoe adaptor to put onto the stands if you plan to do it that way. The little diffusers are helpful when I don't have an umbrella and can't bounce the flash off a wall or ceiling.
The stands are pretty cheap. But for the price I can't complain. The only real issue I have is if you are outside you will probably need something to hold them down as they are pretty light.
Hope that helps get you started.
Man, this sub is dope. Thanks everyone for your quick responses! I didn't even think about the camera auto adjusting, that plus the fluorescent light and the button LEDs are probably not a good combination. I will test is out and report back!
Also, if i was going to buy some low cost lighting (~50$) what would be a good set? I read the wiki and people said http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FHZ2SI/ref=ox_sc_imb_mini_detail?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=APGNKGIBL58YH
which look nice and are pretty bang for your buck but still might be a little over kill for tabletop.
Thanks!
Is the 50mm offered in DX, only found fx versions of it on B&H
Is the Yungnuo 568 a good model? or should I stay with nikon?
Found this on amazon-http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FHZ2SI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 , is that the type of umbrella you're referring to?
I think i found a replacement stand for only 40 bucks, which is great because I'm only down one stand.
https://www.amazon.com/LimoStudio-Adjustable-Background-Backdrop-AGG1112/dp/B00E6GRHBO/ref=pd_sim_421_2?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41q14h9xSaL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=59YTX83JHS14PZJ3SXHM
Just get a big blanket and cover yourself and you camera in it so it's like your in an igloo of black cloth...
Or This
Or! haha! Put some hooks in your ceiling and drape it from them!
I'd look around for something like [this] (http://www.amazon.com/LimoStudio-Adjustable-Background-Backdrop-Support/dp/B00E6GRHBO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1395005674&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=backdrop+stand+photography). I use backdrop stands like this quite a bit in my photography and theyre pretty cheap, adjustable, and portable. Although this one might be a bit big, depending on how much you're planning on showing, but you can probably find some smaller ones around the web.
Hello!
I'm trying to build a small studio on a budget, since I don't really know that much about lighting and equipment, I'm shopping by best sellers/most reviews on Amazon, I will be doing portraits photos.
https://www.amazon.com/Photography-Portrait-Continuous-LimoStudio-LMS103/dp/B005FHZ2SI/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511300862&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=lighting+kit
And what about this for the stand?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E6GRHBO/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_p=3341940462&amp;pd_rd_wg=jm5yS&amp;pf_rd_r=XZG63ZDMVDGWZAPMBNH4&amp;pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-bottom-slot&amp;pf_rd_t=301&amp;pd_rd_i=B00E6GRHBO&amp;pd_rd_w=JmGsI&amp;pf_rd_i=lighting+kit&amp;pd_rd_r=abee786f-075f-4975-acf1-144b8e613585&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511300901&amp;sr=1
Thanks a lot!
http://www.amazon.com/LimoStudio-Adjustable-Background-Backdrop-AGG1112/dp/B00E6GRHBO?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
This is the cheapest solution that i have found. You can find a clamp for the lighthouses, but the ultimate cheapo route would be duct taping the lighthouses to the top of the stands. Which actually works surprisingly well.
you can get started with one flash/strobe + reflector and stand or softbox and stand. you don't need a backdrop right away, you can just use any solid color wall.
flash vs strobe. strobes are more powerful and faster cycling but require ac power or battery packs. flashes are more portable.
for a backdrop you can just use these two. it's a bit cheaper.
https://www.amazon.com/LimoStudio-Adjustable-Background-Backdrop-AGG1112/dp/B00E6GRHBO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494795437&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=Backdrop
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Collapsible-Background-Photography-Television/dp/B00SR28X9S/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494795437&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=Backdrop
for the lights, you can just buy stands and softboxes or flash reflectors seperately. i wouldn't recommend that kit. start with one softbox or one flash reflector and stand. then add more as you need.
stands
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Photography-Relfectors-Softboxes-Backgrounds/dp/B00K69A0QY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494795534&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=softbox+stand
softboxes, multiple sizes available.
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-centimeters-Octagonal-Speedlight-Photography/dp/B00PIM3I6I/ref=sr_1_4?s=photo&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494795485&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=softbox
flash reflector
https://www.amazon.com/LimoStudio-Double-Reflector-Umbrella-AGG127/dp/B005AKF4F6/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494795671&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=flash+umbrella
An affordable setup would be this stand with this screen. The expensive part (or hot part) is lighting it (and you). Here is something that I've done - you can check my channel to see the results. I use IKEA light strips (about $20) and stuck it to my monitor in front of me it gives you excellent lighting for your face (for REALLY cheap). Lighting the screen you can pretty much use any form of lighting. Light boxes and LED lights are ideal, but more expensive.
Looking for an all white backdrop recommendation, already have a stand like this one: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E6GRHBO
And am looking for something like this to attach to it:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ER2YQ/
Any other suggestions?
This is the one I picked up. - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UOOTCS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Probably more than you need, but I've been thrilled with the value considering I use it for youtube videos, site commercials, and of course, now Twitch.
You could probably just get away with this - http://www.amazon.com/6x9-Chromakey-Backdrop-Background-Fancierstudio/dp/B001PCQTDO/ref=pd_cp_p_3
Make sure you have something to set it up with, either a wall, piece of foamboard, or get a frame like this - http://www.amazon.com/LimoStudio-Adjustable-Background-Backdrop-Support/dp/B00E6GRHBO/ref=pd_bxgy_p_text_y
If you get the frame, don't neglect the spring clamps - http://www.amazon.com/Cheaplights-PCS-3-75-Spring-Clamps/dp/B0019SHZU0/ref=pd_bxgy_p_text_z though I got mine (metal and more robust) from Home Depot.
I have a cloth thats something like 4x4 feet (I think they are 10-20$ on amazon.) I then pinned the corners to the roof with tacs and left the center un-tacked so it droops a bit. When I'm done I just toss it up over itself through the tack free portion and you can walk freely under it.
If you have some extra money you can also get a stand off of amazon that you could store off to the side: https://www.amazon.com/LimoStudio-Adjustable-Background-Backdrop-AGG1112/dp/B00E6GRHBO/ref=br_lf_m_gvy6u24qkj8xx55_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;s=photo
I feel bad because the things were more expensive than I remember.
Here is the green screen $17.99
and here is the stand $34.99
The green screen requires some kind of stand. Its kind of a massive screen, but I was able to fold it around to fit the size I need and I use it for photography as well. For the stand I didn't even fold the legs out. I just propped them against the wall and used a little sticky tack. If you have more time than money you could get some pvc pipe and make a similar stand for probably less, but I liked this one because it is pretty nice and it is adjustable.
The lamp you linked is not it exactly, but seems like the updated version of what I have. The most important thing is just having the right amount of lumens for the distance away from you. There are conversion charts for when they only give the wattage of the lamp. The lamps I have don't have any temperature control, but I think you can do that on the OBS side. They are just natural white as far as I can tell.
If you're not going to be doing an equipment take down every day then I would go with something like what I have, but if you have to do clean up then a collapsable screen might be worth the extra money.
I got cheep one from Amazon that I really like. I didn't want to spend much money at all because I have a wall mounted backdrop support for my studio, so I just needed something for the occasional corporate head-shot sessions I do in office buildings.
It's surprisingly strong, I thought I'd only use it 3-4 times a year outside of the studio but I use it in studio now to hang reflectors/diffusion panels. Only negative is that the stands don't have the widest base, but if you sandbag them they won't budge.
Thanks for the reply.
I was looking at the Canon EF 100mm f2.8 Macro (non IS) and the Canon EF-S 60mm f/2.8 USM Macro Lens.
I found someone selling the 60mm lens for $300 in what appears to be good condition. The 100mm lens I found used from a camera store for $475+tax. So I think I might go with the 60mm one because I can get it for a lot cheaper.
I was also thinking of getting two lights for $60. My current lighting might be good enough, but these look more professional too.
CowboyStudio Photography Table Top Photo Studio Lighting Kit - 2 Light Kit
https://www.amazon.ca/CowboyStudio-Photography-Table-Studio-Lighting/dp/B002SOBPH8/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462686629&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=cowboy+lights
And then a light box for $42:
https://www.amazon.ca/Neewer%C2%AE-Shooting-Diffusion-Backdrops-Photography/dp/B00GKGGICC/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462686767&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=light+box
Then I might buy some better fabric and maybe some tile type surfaces also.
Will I be all set with this gear?
You're welcome!
There's several ways you could go about it. Without investing in more equipment, you may be able to bounce it off a white ceiling.
Otherwise, you could buy a cheap softbox that goes over the speedlight to diffuse it, and then either hand hold it or set it down pointing at the subject.
Or, you can get a lightbox that you put your subject in, and shoot the flash through a side/top of the box. This method ensures that the background will be white, if that's what you're going for.
Beautiful.
Here's a cheap lightbox I picked up from Amazon a few days ago. I got the 24"x24" because I'm bad at reading, but there's a few smaller ones that are pretty well priced.
Created a DRIPLESS COFFEE MUG that just went SALE from $14.99 to $9.99 for BLACK FRIDAY https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GKGGICC/ref=psdc_3444581_t3_B000BFYXGG
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First time product designer + first time Amazon seller here = this is hard.
Usually work over 65 hrs a week in film industry and cooked Thanksgiving for my family also.
I'm so tired I could eat a horse
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A photo tent like this one will do quite a bit :D And it's also really great no matter what to keep drafts off your prints and protect the printer from dust.
Personally I prefer the shower curtain tent because it's easier to access the printer, but to make that you need PVC pipes, magnets and a sewing machine. Alternatively, a real enclosure like a box of plexiglass or something will be even better. You can even put accoustic foam on the "walls" to further dampen it :D
Start with the feet though - you can print those out right now, and PLA is perfectly fine :D
Exactly. They also have lightbox styles such as this one. You can even buy 1 of these, cut up off each side and mount them in front of your lights. You want them to be a few inches off of the bulb to get quality diffusion and prevent the diffuser from melting/catching fire (be careful! Some lights get very hot). If you need smaller lights as well, Amazon has lots of all-in-one kits such this one
I'd look at a lightbox like this one. https://smile.amazon.com/Neewer-Shooting-Diffusion-Backdrops-Photography/dp/B00GKGGICC/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1502987460&amp;sr=8-14&amp;keywords=lightbox
Just a friendly suggestion:
Try putting your subject inside a light tent like this for optimal shadow free lighting:
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Shooting-Diffusion-Backdrops-Photography/dp/B00GKGGICC/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1526234323&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=light+tents+for+photography
Thanks for the ideas. Here's more info:
Printing in a closed garage, no windows.
Printer is shrouded with a photo light cube to keep temp and eliminate drafts.
Material:PLA
Print Temp: 195C
Bed Temp: 60C
Thank you! Yeah, no problem. Here's my janky "studio" setup in our spare bedroom. Light box, lights, flash + trigger
One trick is to NOT extend each pole fully, leave a lot of overlap and evenly distribute the unused length as overlap across the joints.
That's what I did with a cheap tripod set to reach 6.5ft and it worked perfectly (indoors). They are $37 and as a bonus the included case fits both tripods plus all Vive components wrapped in thin towels for padding, a keyboard, mouse, and the light mounting clips I used to attach the base stations to the poles.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HNZJLG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OmwoxbKF2MFVB
Yes, it comes with everything you'd need, but if you're going into drywall, I would suggest buying some better anchors like these, the ones they come with aren't the best.
If you plan one making it mobile, maybe look into some tripod mounts, the bases support a standard mount.
I ordered these http://www.amazon.com/StudioPRO-Photography-Stands-Carrying-Studio/dp/B00HNZJLG4?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01
Along with these http://www.amazon.com/Gosky-Degree-Ballhead-Monopod-Digital/dp/B017N6Y08Q?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00
The stands come in a square black zippered bag. Been using this setup for a few days now between my bedroom (for sitting only) and the living room (for room scale and demos). So far so good!
That's what I bought these and they're fantastic.
Depends on how hight the ceiling is at your friends...
If it is normal height, then something like these are the best from what I read...
https://www.amazon.com/FastCap-Support-System--144-Inches-3HAND5/dp/B000067S12/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467363597&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=ceiling+support
the lighthouses can then be mounted on the supports with 2 of these
https://www.amazon.com/SUPON-Camera-Tripod-Holding-Monitor/dp/B00PICAE4C/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467363860&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=camera+mount+clamp
I personally bought 2 light stands similar to these because I have a heigher ceiling that the supports can reach
https://www.amazon.com/StudioPRO-Photography-Stands-Carrying-Studio/dp/B00HNZJLG4/ref=sr_1_8?s=photo&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467363968&amp;sr=1-8&amp;keywords=light+stand
and I mount the lighthouses on them with 2 of these...
https://www.amazon.com/Cullmann-Adapter-Camera-Screw-Capacity/dp/B00PGMCBP4/ref=sr_1_2?s=photo&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467364096&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=cullmann+ball+head
It works, but I always fear someone running against the stands while playing , knocking them over. Much better should be the first solution, it also has a smaller footprint using less space than the light stands
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fovitec-StudioPRO-Classic-Light-Carrying/dp/B00HNZJLG4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1501491500&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=fovitec
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Eggsnow-Tripod-Bracket-Ballhead-Camera-2pcs/dp/B01ESJ7754/ref=pd_sbs_421_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=03Q4BN7QGHBXNEJNR5PH
I can vouch for the Fovitec stands, however I can't vouch for the mount as I have a different brand.
Setup was easy, as per the other reply don't install any of the bullshit that HTC wants to install, just use SteamVR.
Get OpenVR advanced settings.
Get Chaperone Tweak.
When you're playing if you start to feel a little bit sick, do not push through it. Stop playing for a while until you feel OK. You cannot push through it, it'll just get worse and your second and third day will be like mine, outside of VR.
Hey there, this weekend I'm going to be taking pictures and my brother-in-law and his fiancee's wedding shower. They didn't ask me to do this but they are ok with me doing it. Really, I'm not interested in the shower but I have to go so I thought it would be a good time to use my new gear (its all new to me basically, just getting in to photography). And if I'm going to take pics, I want them to turn out at least decent. The last thing I want is to take pics and then not be able to share them because they came out terrible.
Anyways, I was wondering if somebody could give me some ideas on how I could utilize my equipment, especially my flashes (never used those before). The room is a "community" room in an apartment building. Its rectangle-shaped room with entrance doors on opposite corners. I think the lighting are chandelier type things with CFL bulbs, I don't remember right off hand.
Nikon D7200 (probably getting a Sigma 17-50mm f/2.8 tomorrow, I already have a Nikon 50mm f/1.8)
These stands: https://www.amazon.com/Fovitec-Photography-Reflectors-Modifiers-Collapsible/dp/B00HNZJLG4/
Two of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075F3G6J3/
Two of these: https://www.amazon.com/YONGNUO-YN685-System-Wireless-Speedlite/dp/B01EFUHRPQ/
One of these: https://www.amazon.com/YN622N-TX-Wireless-Controller-Transmitter-Function/dp/B00NJGMICU/
Any help would be super appreciated!!!
I bought this and these and have been taking my Vive on the road without any issues.
I've found I can fit everything but the PC into the bag that came with my light stands:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNZJLG4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Does not wrap nearly so pretty as yours but quite functional for the once every month or two I take it out.
Cool, thanks everyone for the tips!
Ordered these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNZJLG4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Will post back the results once I get them set up (for any random googlers who find their way here.)
THEY ABSOLUTELY NEED TO BE ANGLED. I would suggest a cheap pair of tripods. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNZJLG4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017N6Y08Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
These work great.
The Vive was the least protected in the box they shipped it in too if you recall. It was just in a plastic bag.
Lightstands: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNZJLG4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Mini ball heads: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X5QO3B8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
So I only know a few of these.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNZJLG4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012FTXOW4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Are just the tripods I use now.
Other than that, hope you get the answers you want. Cheers! (The Vive is awesome though!)
Thanks again, your responses, as consistently demonstrated, carry weight.
Regarding ceiling, I live in an apartment, don't want to drill holes up there. I'll look for alternate methods of setting it up and share my discovery here with you guys. Maybe what I find can facilitate mobile as well. Quick thought came to mind. If find a sturdy enough lightstand upto 9-10 feet with some kind of hangover pole think traffic light main pole protruding out the sidewalk, and the pole attached to it hovering over the street, holding up the lights Something like that. Attach one of those heavy duty retractable's onto it.
I use these light stands for my vive motion trackers. I'm thinking something along these lines with the attached pole hovering from the top extending outwards: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNZJLG4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNZJLG4?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00#Ask This one comes with a bag, I kinda like that. It is the 7'6" one.
When it's all said and done you can be up and running in under an hour. The hardest part is figuring out where to put the lighthouses. I recommend picking up some cheap photography lightstands on amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNZJLG4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ESJ7754/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Makes things nice and easy to setup and you don't have to worry about drilling holes in your walls.
I'm using a pair of fovitec light stands and a set of ball mounts to angle my base stations
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HNZJLG4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478480623&amp;sr=1-1&amp;m=A3VAHM8ODBLF0H&amp;pi=AC_SX280_SY350_QL65&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31FDwaUTheL&amp;ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B012FTXOW4/ref=pd_aw_sim_421_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=8W0E4PJH452VBEBTYDDJ
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNZJLG4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Worked great until I hard mounted mine.
My mobile solution was a little more expensive: light stands with carrying bag, ball mounts, and sand weights - a bit more expensive, but very stable. (Sand or rock needed to fill bags, price not included but only a couple of bucks. I put my sand in double 1 gallon bags in each of the 3 sides of each base sand holder.)
For my mobile rig, I already owned an older Alienware 17 R3 and added a graphics amplifier with a Titan X. Works pretty good as a mobile VR rig. Fairly solid VR rig.
Im a photographer so I had a few tripods lying around that I used to use for lights, So I just unscrewed them off of the disk mount, and screwed them on the tripods they look like this, and you can use them for the vive and rift
These are ones I bought. I bought them because they were the cheapest ones I could find and the tallest ones I could find. Even at full extension the lighthouse are stable. I had to buy a set of adapters too.
> The Neewer Set of Two 9 feet/260 centimeters Photo Studio Light Stands for HTC Vive VR, Video, Portrait, and Product Photography https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L4YR0BS
I bought these after seeing them suggested a few times and I have no IDEA why people suggest them. It CONSTANTLY falls over unless it's on a perfectly flat and hard surface. Really regret that purchase =\
>Are you likely to need additional fixings for the tripod to use them with the base stations.
Yes. With most tripods you will need the additional ball mount to be able to angle the lighthouses properly.
I'm using these tripods with these mounts. They work well but extending them to the full height does lessen stability and causes tracking wobble. If I keep them at around 7' everything works fine.
I purchased [this](Neewer 2-Pack 8.5 feet/2.6 meters Adjustable Light Stands with 2-Piece 1/4-inch Screw Tripod Mini Ball Head Hot Shoe Adapters and Carrying Case for HTC Vive VR, Video, Portrait and Product Photography https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01MT1N8JD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FGsgAbX7CJ8H1)bundle, unfortunately it isn't currently available but they do work great! I would go with these 9 foot poles and get the mounts which they sell for $20 for the pair.
I bought these: http://www.amazon.com/Neewer%C2%AE-Studio-Portrait-Product-Photography/dp/B00L4YR0BS?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
and these:
http://www.amazon.com/EXMAX-Tripod-Camera-Camcorder-Bracket/dp/B012FTXOW4?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01
They work flawlessly and aren't expensive at all.
They're out of stock now, but I have the Neweer 9-foot two-pack that was about the same price: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L4YR0BS
These work pretty great, and I can definitely get them high enough while keeping stability, but they didn't come with a carrying case! I'm honestly kind of jealous of that.
Not joining the giveaway, as someone else can probably use it better. But welcome to the HTV Vive Master Race! Its hella fun.
Advice: get light stands like these: Light Stands
and ball mounts like these: Ball Joints
That way you dont have to drill your walls and can move the lighthouses as need be!
I got these not too long ago:
http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00L4YR0BS/ref=pe_386430_121528420_TE_dp_1
http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B017R2Z706/ref=pe_386430_30332290_TE_3p_dp_1
I'm worried about the vibration actually. I'm not sure if the hoverjunker devs were using better quality tripods, as well as being on concrete. If I've got cheap tripods on carpet, will I have a problems with the lighthouses vibrating? It's hard to judge by watching videos.
Mounting pictures and small things like this is considered normal use; you typically would have to patch holes before leaving, which is easy, and pay some pro-rated amount towards painting that room if it had been repainted recently (2-3 years in California).
Tripods work too - on concrete. Wood floors make the sensors wobble when anyone is moving around. (Edit: a rod as suggested by /u/Muzanshin works better with wood)
I got these; though the price has gone up a bit they're still great at $36 for a pair:
Neewer Set of Two 9 feet/260 centimeters Photo Studio Light Stands for HTC Vive VR, Video, Portrait, and Product Photography https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L4YR0BS
And the ball heads you'll need to tilt the cameras down enough for $11:
MDW 2 Pcs Tripod Mini Ball Head for HTC VIVE Base Station,lighthouses,Camera Camcorder,Holder for HTC VIVE https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M07M9D4
This set is a bit shorter but includes 2 stands and 2 ball heads for $40 total:
Neewer 2 Packs 75 inches/190 centimeters Adjustable Light Stands with 2 Pieces 1/4-inch Screw Tripod Mini Ball Head Hot Shoe Adapters for HTC Vive VR, Video, Portrait and Product Photography https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZ1Y076
I'd use light-weight light stands rather than tripods. /u/rukeith They have a smaller tri-leg base and most of their height is in a vertical extension. They're easier to manipulate than hard-mounting the sensors in the walls, but it all depends on personal situation.
Something like these: https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-centimeters-Portrait-Product-Photography/dp/B00L4YR0BS/ref=sr_1_3?s=photo&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499018087&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=light+stand
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L4YR0BS
I bought a few of these, along with
https://smile.amazon.com/MDW-Tripod-Station-lighthouses-Camcorder/dp/B01M07M9D4
for mounting my front and back sensors. They work great, the ball head screws directly to the top of the light stand and the sensor screws onto the ball head. Probably not the cheapest solution but is very versatile if you're wanting to move the sensors around to try different setups.
They have to be tilted down. If it's not 45 degrees, you'll get bad gray flickering which will make anyone not used to VR sick. Mine were 8 feet off the ground and I got constant flickering every ~2 seconds just because it was tilted ~25 degrees and not 45. Tripods work the best and will definitely work wherever you go. A clamp with mount screws work second best but there's a chance you won't find a spot for it.
Neewer Set of Two 9 feet/260 centimeters Photo Studio Light Stands for HTC Vive VR, Video, Portrait, and Product Photography https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L4YR0BS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_757oybQHS7R75
I would have got those but I'm in the UK and didn't see em on amazon.
These seem like they are basically the same though right?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Neewer-centimeters-Portrait-Product-Photography/dp/B00L4YR0BS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520884053&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=studio+light+stand
Yea for sure, I personally have my lighthouses mounted on tripods so I can bring it to a friends house as well. These are the ones I got:
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-centimeters-Portrait-Product-Photography/dp/B00L4YR0BS/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
Also make sure to buy the bracket mounts as well; they are in the most bought with list.
For PC it all depends on your budget; if you're in the US you could probably build a decent one for ~$800USD. i5-6500, GTX 1060 should be a good starting place to look.
so I'm looking at two ways to hold the sensors.
Cheap wallmounts from Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/VideoSecu-Universal-Satellite-Speaker-Bracket/dp/B005BV0FHG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1456169210&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=speaker+wall+ceiling+mount
OR a tripod station for portability and movement.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L4YR0BS/ref=s9u_simh_gw_i1?ie=UTF8&amp;fpl=fresh&amp;pd_rd_i=B00L4YR0BS&amp;pd_rd_r=XH1J8KZY8HK8R9YS19N1&amp;pd_rd_w=UF99n&amp;pd_rd_wg=2i8si&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=&amp;pf_rd_r=KTVZGBE66D5GV2ACPV42&amp;pf_rd_t=36701&amp;pf_rd_p=1cf9d009-399c-49e1-901a-7b8786e59436&amp;pf_rd_i=desktop
I'm probably going to go for the tripod, thanks for the information!
I have this pretty much permanently up for one of the lighthouses in my house and I've never noticed any vibration.
I get more vibration when I use the cheap lightstands on Amazon, but even then it's rare (only when someone really tries to jump around or accidentally bumps it). Despite the vibration I like the lightstands as an option too though because there's not always a place you can clamp these buggers.
Great write up by the way. Appreciate the work that went into this.
Congrats!!!
I got these:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00L4YR0BS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
They're perfect for the job, even on carpet. Footprint hasn't been an issue either. Keep in mind you would also need a ball bracket to angle them down:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00L23XN9O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Hope this helps - enjoy the vive when it arrives!
Thanks for posting
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Does anyone know where to buy replacement Lighthouse mounts in Australia? by gezza952
So I have two rooms to play with the HTC Vive in one for room scale games and the other for seated but I cant seem to find any replacement mounts for the lighthouse so I can mount them in the other room. Unfortunately there is not enough space for me to use Tripod mounts unless they are like the Neewer tripods ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L4YR0BS?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00) I have seen people post on Amazon but cant seem to find them in Australia.
I have tried looking for speaker mounts at Bunnings and JB HIFI but cant seem to find anything.Thanks for any help!
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These are showing as currently unavailable, but they're what I have and what I recommended to a friend a few days ago.
You'll need to get the ball heads separately (I got two of these), but they work perfectly.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L4YR0BS?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
I just bought this on a lightning deal
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00L4YR0BS/
Here are the light stands I use when I take the Vive out of the house to demo: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L4YR0BS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Here are the ball heads I use on top of those stands: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M07M9D4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I have yet to have an issue with either, they stay in place well and they dont jiggle around.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L4YR0BS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M07M9D4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This is the setup I'm using right now. But damn that quick support rod is a really good idea. I would do that instead of this if possible. I would only consider the tripod "sturdy" if you can extend the legs all the way out, which might be difficult in a small college dorm/apartment
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L4YR0BS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L4YR0BS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
These are what I use.
For travel, i use these.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00L4YR0BS/ref=oh_aui_i_d_old_o0_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
And
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ESJ7754/ref=oh_aui_i_d_old_o0_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
But for your own home, just attach em, its only two small holes and you can patch it easy. A little toothpaste will do the trick if you don't feel like going to Lowe's for the paste.
If paint matching is a concern, bring a chip and they can match for you whenever you go to move.
You're spending $800 on this. Tripods are great for traveling with the vive, but at home, don't risk knocking over your expensive sensitive lighthouses just to save $10 on plaster when you move.
I've used some of these http://www.amazon.com/Dimmable-Digital-Camcorder-Panasonic-Samsung/dp/B004TJ6JH6 before and they worked pretty well
Not sure how well they hold up over time
I've also used a lot of fixtures from Home Depot that work well, buy some reflectors in a few sizes and bulbs in different color temps and wattages to get the look you're going for
I know you're going for cheap (like everybody else is) but don't just buy the cheapest thing you can find, I've made this mistake before and ended up having to go buy something better later when the cheaper alternative broke after a few uses
For another option, I'm with RADTV, definitely consider renting
Thanks for all of the tips, it's really putting everything into perspective.
We are currently using this set up
and this light LED light:
I was looking for something more on the go since, most of the videos will be taken in public places.
Here's an example of one of our videos. As you can tell the quality is terrible and the audio through a takstar mic is disgusting: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9vafoXMPfAU
I have these, https://www.amazon.com/Dimmable-Digital-Camcorder-Panasonic-Samsung/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511638223&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=neewer+light+panels
Going to LA Convention Center for an anime convention. Will be taking solo and group pictures inside. Here are pictures 1 2 3 from previous years using the 550D/t2i without flash. Flash was making the background too dark and the subject light up too much. I'll be replacing the kit lens with the Canon EF 85mm f1.2 USM ii lens.
I was looking at the [Neewer NW-561](https://www.amazon.com/NEEWER%C2%AE-Dimmable-Digital-Camcorder-Panasonic/dp/B004TJ6JH6/r NW-561 speedlite flash. Someone recommended to get one with TTL, they recommended the Yongnuo YN-568EX II. The Neewer NW670 / VK750II E-TTL is cheaper and also has TTL. Which one should I get? Do I get a diffuser or softbox? Which way should I face the flash (walls and ceiling too far/high)?
What's a great cheap LED light for car light painting? I was looking at this one, is it good? Also, if I were to use it would I need something to make the light less harsh?
Those DIY florescent kits can get you into trouble. Sometimes they don't run at the appropriate refresh rate and they'll create a banding effect on certain colors. The inverter dillema always makes field shooting a little tricky. If you've got a couple HMIs, (Frenels, Cans, spots, or whatever you call em in your neck of the woods). It might be worth it to rent a generator since this piece doesn't appear dependent on Foley.
If you need the flat face light look amazon sells these cheap LED's that are great in pinch [Amazon Link] (http://www.amazon.com/NEEWER%C2%AE-Dimmable-Digital-Camcorder-Panasonic/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1409497084&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=led+camera+light)
I used one on a shot I did a while back I qued it up. It's just the bathroom shot so you can stop playing after you get an idea of what we did with the lights. You'll notice a color shift in the middle to try and change the feel of the scene (Adjustment in post) but basically the light has a pretty good effect as long as you remain within 5 feet of your target. Also works as nice fill on extreme closeups.
Good luck on the re-shoot, I look forward to seeing your results.
https://www.amazon.com/NEEWER%C2%AE-Dimmable-Digital-Camcorder-Panasonic/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473351542&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=neewer+led+panel
The first image is a sparkler, the second could be something as simple as this punk hair toy. One of the tools I use to light paint is a $30 LED brick that works great.
Setup a tripod, depending on your light source and the object you're lighting it will be 1-30+ seconds. If you're using a model they've got to sit very still for as long as the light is interacting with them.
Try the Neewer liner of video lights. Cheap and cheerful, a very handy bit of kit for videographers. I have the CN-160:
https://www.amazon.com/NEEWER®-Dimmable-Digital-Camcorder-Panasonic/dp/B004TJ6JH6
Its a Canon 70d w/ 18-135mm lens and 17-85mm Lens (the 17-85mm is the one that clicks when it is focusing) For a microphone he uses a Rode VMPR VideoMic Pro R. He used the NEEWER 160 LED light for the ursla series. To mount the microphone and light he used something like the Eynpire Camera Triple Mount.
Thanks. We'll be back there in a month, looking forward to it. The lighting set up is 2 LED panels mounted on tripods, one off camera left and one off camera right.
Nice shot of Delicate Arch, following you now on IG. We're on IG at @taylor_photo
So ill focus on three things: Audio, lighting and general video stability ect.
First off Audio.
Audio makes up alot of the video and if it sucks its bad. The built in mics on phones are pretty good but the rode video mic me will add value
I dont think this is the first and most important thing and you should look at some alternatives wich are cheaper. Just buy something because if youre going to be further away from the phone the sound will often suck. Heres a good video on this topic https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L5M3Zn8h27c
next up lighting, think about your current setup, will you be able to film at night, wdo you have enough light? If you have alot of space id recommend a softbox kit from amazon. You get 2 sopftboxes for usually around 50bucks wich will give you soft even light.If you dont have enough space/budet look for led video lights on amazon. neewer has something called like 160 or whatever.Its just a big thing with lots of leds and it gets super bright(https://www.amazon.com/Dimmable-Digital-Camcorder-Panasonic-Samsung/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487198195&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=neewer+led)
You might need something to hold up the light but books will also do the job.
As for general I think theres 2 things. One either a gorilla pod or tripod, think about your situation. Will a gorilla pod get high enough?Again books will do the job fine but it can be annoying. A regular tripod will be comfortable to use but might not work for you. And last is some app that lets you change settings, I think theres one called filmicpro just look up some video shoting apps. Mainly you want it to turn off auto focus exposure ect so theres no weird jumping around focus/exposure.
Good luck with your channel, I think an app that lets you turn off autofocus and exposure is very important and depending on your situation you should invest in lights or audio. Or maybe even both.
Have fun with your eating!
The 50mm prime lens is a nice ADDITION to your kit. I would not purchase a 50mm lens as your only/first lens because you are then forced into moving your camera closer/far away from your subject as you can not zoom to set up shots.
The 600D is good for what it is and you don't have many other options for under 1000$. Most 600D's come with an 18-55mm lens, I purchased a used 600D with a 18-135mm lens which I recommend over the 18-55mm. Of course, it is slightly more expensive, but glass isn't a bad investment because should you upgrade your body, you still have your lenses.
Tripod: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/243272-REG/Davis_Sanford_PROVISTA7518B_Provista_7518_Tripod_w_FM18.html
Several other redditors have recommended this tripod, and I own one as well. Stands up to about 6 feet tall, fluid pans and tilts, quick and easy to set up/break down. Best bang for the dollar.
Audio: Zoom H4N is the recorder you would want, but unfortunately, I think everything you are looking for is tough to get under 1000$. Since you are doing interviews I would recommend 1-2 wireless lavaliers.
If you are working by yourself, maybe a RODE Videomic PRO. It's a shotgun mic, but operates through 3.5mm rather than XLR, so it can mount on your cameras shoe and plug directly in replacing your camera audio. There's a kit you can get with the VMP that comes with a dead cat, boom pole, and extension cable. If you buy a Zoom H1, you can record to that and boom from wherever regardless of your camera. However, the Zoom H1 doesn't take XLR input.
The kit: http://www.ebay.com/itm/RODE-VideoMic-Pro-Microphone-Booming-Kit-1-Boom-Deadcat-and-25-Cable-/160879124199?pt=US_Pro_Audio_Microphones&amp;hash=item2575249ee7
Zoom h1: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/699403-REG/Zoom_H1_H1_Ultra_Portable_Digital_Audio.html
Lighting: There are a lot of guide's out there for DIY light kits. I would look into that, you should be able to build a 3 point light kit for under 100$ from your local hardware store. Also, for 25$ this LED light is great, however it is not a substitute for 3 point lighting.
LED: http://www.amazon.com/NEEWER%C2%AE-Dimmable-Digital-Camcorder-Panasonic/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1411574797&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=neewer+160+led+cn-160
Just get the nifty fifty. Also known as the fantastic plastic. It’s a good lens for the price. Also maybe get a light source, these led video lights are all you need, just learn white balance editing.
NEEWER 160 LED CN-160 Dimmable Ultra High Power Panel Digital Camera / Camcorder Video Light, LED Light for Canon, Nikon, Pentax, Panasonic,SONY, Samsung and Olympus Digital SLR Cameras https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Xrx4CbRPNS69Z
Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 STM Lens https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X8MRBCW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Apx4Cb5AGTZ3S
Get an external light. Very important. NEEWER 160 LED CN-160 Dimmable Ultra High Power Panel Digital Camera / Camcorder Video Light, LED Light for Canon, Nikon, Pentax, Panasonic,SONY, Samsung and Olympus Digital SLR Cameras https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EfR3CbY5M4H77
Outside of that I run an i7 computer with video card, 3 Sony handy cams with Elgato Cam Link capture devices, and a blue snowball mic. Do not get the ice snowball, that one stinks. This stream is every cam set to 1080p 60 FPS with my computer outputting 1080/60 FPS. Hope that helps!
Will this https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=3NBLT9FTO2I4T&amp;coliid=ICZCELG15I1CS fit on this https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/ibn/Phot-R-Professional-Photography-Adjustable-4-Section-Photo-Aluminium/B00MOM1T02/ref=pd_vtph_421_lp_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=59V42D6BPTJTQ6XXRQNY with the use of this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Kaavie-Universal-Swivel-Holder-Umbrella/dp/B006VTJQT0/ref=pd_sim_421_7?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=7KH4QP8HFY4Q8S53TVNZ adaptor? Looking to buy all 3 in one go. Cheers!
how about just giving them a light. Like one of these?
http://www.amazon.com/NEEWER%C2%AE-Dimmable-Digital-Camcorder-Panasonic/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1415290825&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=led+video+light
They just turn it on, hold it up then take a pic.
oh yea i forgot about that. I recently bought a cheap 160 LED light panel. works great! link
I just picked up 2 of these http://www.amazon.com/Neewer%C2%AE-CN-160-camera-video-light/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1372786086&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=neewer+led
I havent used them yet but they seem like a lot of bang for the buck
They have their use cases. I'm a photographer, and for LED panels like this (if you're shooting in seriously low light, particularly for video) it's insanely expensive to keep buying regular batteries. Yeah, may be more convenient, but batteries aren't cheap and the cost adds up quick if you need lots of them.
If you're looking for some cheap video lighting to help brighten up a shot I would recommend searching on Amazon for LED panels. They can range from small and cheap to bigger, brighter, and much more expensive. I would search around and try and find something that's in your price range. They can certainly be useful to help add some light in an interview setting or you can use them mounted on top of your camera if you're shooting an event in the dark like a wedding reception or a nightclub.
Is this the light you used?
Something like this Neewer Shoulder Rig Kit $105. Something like this Neewer 160 LED Light $32. A Rode Mic $150? Zoom H1 $100. Headphones <$100? 500ish total without the cost of a DSLR and lens.
I've used something similar to this before, it's very small and can mount to the hot shoe of your DSLR so its great for run and gun video stuff. Its dimmable as well and comes with a diffusion filter which should help with your intensity concerns.
I'm going to assume you're running on a low budget, so I'd sugest, the NEEWER CN-160 LED Light, it runs on a variety of batteries and is reasonably powerful (and cheap).
> e you red head and blast it through a nice white bed sheet hanging between two stands.
> Get this sheet as close to your subject as possible without it being in frame and then bring in your light as appropriate for the correct exposure.
> In terms of light placement it looks to me they are using it above camera, and slightly to the right.
I shot the video, we used 2 small led lights http://www.amazon.com/NEEWER%C2%AE-Dimmable-Digital-Camcorder-Panasonic/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1453910246&amp;sr=8-10&amp;keywords=canon+led+lights . I will try the bed sheet idea next time thanks. Also what is a red head?
I've used flashlights before, big ol' mag lights (the kinds cop use) can be effective.
http://youtu.be/1LPr0qFTebo
The lighting set up for that was a mag-light through a shoot through umbrella just out of frame (maybe 4 feet away?) and a second light on top of the hood of a car maybe 5-10 feet camera left to the side of the talent. I don't think we even had to crank the ISO too much on that. Maybe 640. I don't have an HD copy of that file anymore.
In more recent times I've used this:
http://www.amazon.com/Neewer%C2%AE-CN-160-camera-video-light/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1377727985&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=LED+Video+Light+160
Careful with this though, as the battery drains the lights get dimmer, which isn't noticeable until it's too late. Be sure to check shots and change out batteries frequently.
That gives a look like this when used on camera, around 3-5 feet away from the talent.
http://youtu.be/hCxm_rBElU8
If you had a few of these, and kept things mostly tight you can probably get away with it.
I'm an avid window light shooter when I work with food as well, but of course now that the darker season has hit that isn't really an option in the evening time.
Alternatively, I use a cheap video LED and a small softbox. It's not ideal by any means, but it's a quick and mobile option in your price range and sits nicely on a light stand. Here's an example of it in use without the softbox on it, taken in a very dark restaurant corner. An assistant is holding it for me camera left.
If you're shooting in a small space, it will get the job done at the price point you're at.
I was actually thinking about doing it this way too, I was thinking about buying this light, mounting it on a hot shoe, and yeah, the microphone is a great addition would likely be better than with the Rode shotgun. And also the diverse backgrounds would be a big plus. Do you think the light is overkill? I dont want people to be getting blinded while I talk to them. But now that I'm imagining the edit, it would be kind of boring if all the stories had the same static background.
Thanks for the clarification on the strobe, for some reason my mind went straight to the umbrella strobes.
I have this, but was not using it during my last shoot. It is plenty bright, but it is not controlled at all, just like a big flashlight on top of the camera. I do not think it will cause any issues.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004TJ6JH6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s03?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Should I be adjusting the white balance on my camera at all, or just in post-production? I think it is on auto mode right now, have not been messing with it trying to get the rest of my manual controls down, shutter speed, ISO and apature.
This was my first dark shooting, so that was my attempt at playing with my ISO. I still have yet to take a good look at the photographs. I fully expect the upper limit of the camera to be poor.
The focus issue has been hurting me. I have been doing mostly wildlife photography up to this point, but some people complain that my photographs are "blurry and out of focus." I still have just a basic 100-300 lens and shooting at the upper limit does produce poorer quality photographs, I like having the apature set so only the subject is focused and the background is blurry. So I feel I am on the right track, just need to improve my skills. Over the summer I will be upgrading my equipment so hopefully that brings a better quality as well.
Thank you! That's actually something I've been attempting to improve lately. Historically I was using my iPhone, because attempts to use a DSLR looked even worse (because I had no idea what I was doing). After becoming a wee bit more knowledgeable on a recent vacation in Yellowstone and the Grand Tetons, I became determined to finally improve my indoor shots. I found some surprisingly reasonable equipment on Amazon for background and lighting (lighting x2, tabletop backdrop stand, background paper, clamps to hold the paper taut), leveraged tripods I already owned and used one of my Pentax DSLRs (A K20D in this case). I still auto-leveled all the images on my computer, but hopefully they are better than in the past.
I've used this with a T3i for video and it works nicely.
Thanks bro. I used a this handle with this light
Totally! I can actually recommend the lights I have (not to sound weird I promise I just think they're good cheap lights). I have now a total of 3 and a umbrella light although you probably only need 2 and could be really creative with reflective things!
Thanks. Could you provide a link to a light you would recommend?
Something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004TJ6JH6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503455990&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=led+photography+light&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51gHdZ34gzL&amp;ref=plSrch
You can get a mini-tripod with this depending on your budget: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B004TJ6JH6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I've attached that to my Canon T3i used as webcam to record and adjust the lighting to how I need it.
Also I mostly record during the day, so the sunlight that comes in the living room goes well combine with the led lighting.
I'm surprised it hasn't been suggested yet, but get some ambient lighting behind your monitors. Nothing too bright, just a simple strip of LEDs would be sufficient, like these. It helps reduce the eyestrain from the heavy lighting contrast between the monitors and the negative space behind them.
I have two of these on a 55 inch tv.. I use the usb on my tv to power them its works great http://www.amazon.ca/Antec-Halo-Led-Bias-Lighting/dp/B0053B347M
i believe they mean this kind of thing my dude
I have this, and it works pretty well. The sticky stuff on it sucks but i just attached it with tape.
WOOOOAH, that is WAAAY overkill, and not the best option either (it would work, but it's the hard way, and there's WAY too many lights there). You will be able to change the colour manually but that's it.
This http://www.amazon.com/Antec-Halo-LED-Bias-Lighting/dp/B0053B347M is a propper Bias lighting kit.
Bias lighting isn't designed to change with the screen, but the simple white glow of reflected light from behind a screen can significantly reduce eye strain and even improve perceived image quality.
I put a rope light behind my TV a while back (because we had it anyway, and finding large TV sized kits can be tricky), and my TV looks noticeably better now (when I bother to use it, it's a bit of a pain to climb behind the TV to turn it on & off). It allows me to turn off all the lights and not get sore eyes from watching the bright TV in a dark room.
How bright is your monitor? The typical factory default settings are way, way too bright for long term use. I've heard it said that your monitor should ideally be about as bright as a well-lit book page. It will look a little odd at first, but you'll get used to it.
I'm in the process of setting up LED backlighting (bias lighting) on my monitor as well. Apparently it is loads better for your eyes than playing in the dark, or shining a bright overhead light or desk lamp near your screen.
Here's a cheap option for LED backlighting with minimal fuss: http://www.amazon.com/Antec-Halo-LED-Bias-Lighting/dp/B0053B347M
I will definitely look into those; thanks! I was considering the Antec bias LEDs but the ones you got look enticing as well.
Try the "Antec Halo Bias Lighting" - it's a strip of LEDs powered by usb. If your monitor has usb ports it's crazy simple.
http://www.amazon.com/Antec-Halo-LED-Bias-Lighting/dp/B0053B347M
I've been digging on these Antec light-strips. Yeah they're aren't the perfect white temp or whatever but they're pretty nifty.
http://www.amazon.com/Antec-Halo-LED-Bias-Lighting/dp/B0053B347M
Antec Bias Lighting 12 bucks and designed expressly for this purpose.
Adhesive strip sticks to monitor, comes with usb plug. I just got two of these for my monitor and the HD tv version.
No. It's actually 2 of https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0053B347M/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
X-Rite ColorMunki Display (CMUNDIS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0055MBQOM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9aBIAbKFM74X2
Prolly expensive for most people to justify but I needed it for photography. Maybe you could get a used one to help with the price. It's a great tool and it makes the colors match my ips ultrawide.
I’ll check it out. It’s this right? X-Rite ColorMunki Display (CMUNDIS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0055MBQOM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_T7dqDbT665KKK
Using a Colormunki Display.
http://www.amazon.com/Xrite-CMUNDIS-ColorMunki-Display/dp/B0055MBQOM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1318325216&amp;sr=8-1
I use:
http://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-CMUNDIS-ColorMunki-Display/dp/B0055MBQOM
Some may think I'm silly for dropping the cash on it, but when your ocd gets out of hand, it's been a life saver. No regrets. It creates a color profile based on your display after some testing that it runs through on their app, and viola, my anxiety is gone.
It is very likely that the default calibration of your monitor was pretty good.
With regards to actually calibrating your display, I have this and the best feature is the ability to dynamically adjust the colors based on ambient light. This makes a much more noticeable difference for me than simply calibrating the display once.
This is a decent budget one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0055MBQOM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0UmnDb3P3TRAG
Should use DisplayCal software anyway, so don't have to deal with the manufacturer software which is what all the bad reviews are complaining about.
>all i need to do is plug the DP cable that comes with the monitor into the 1.2 GPU port right, no special cables?
Yes that is correct.
Best way is use a colorimeter like this https://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-ColorMunki-CMUNDIS-Accuracy-Calibration/dp/B0055MBQOM with calibration software, can get cheap old ones on ebay.
Nice. Thanks!
Which calibrator do you use? I am considering this one. What do you think?: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0055MBQOM/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=37OHCI4Y1877Y&amp;coliid=I3JRNCS4JIAB1R
It was this one
If you are going to screw with white balance/color management system you need a meter and software. At minimum HCFR and a a colormunki display/i1display pro
http://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-CMUNDIS-ColorMunki-Display/dp/B0055MBQOM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1421683481&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=colormunki&amp;pebp=1421683458220&amp;peasin=B0055MBQOM
If you get the colormunki however you cannot use commercial software like calman in the future.
If your tv has a RGB mode in the settings (it should) where it only shows the red green or blue channel. You can use test patterns and set color and tint atleast without any additional equipment.
I own this model. Highly recommended for the peace of mind. https://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-CMUNDIS-ColorMunki-Display/dp/B0055MBQOM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480961509&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=colormunki
is this it? http://smile.amazon.com/X-Rite-CMUNDIS-ColorMunki-Display/dp/B0055MBQOM
All of this is so true it hurts! It's very difficult to find information about the different screens out there. You're right that the info available is just about color space and not other aspects of quality. Also not all reviews out there are reviewing the IGZO model on the laptops that offer it.
Do you happen to know what kind of numbers or specifics I can look for when comparing monitors? Colorspace is easy, because it's a number I can find in the specs. What about display calibration? I've seen some that look like a funky mouse. Is it smart to get something like this?
Accuracy has been something i'm really worried about, but I'm not sure what metrics to look for.
Honestly at this point I'm leaning most heavily toward the XPS 15, but might wait for a new model.
Thinking that you might benefit from one of these.
Calibrate, then look at your previous attempts.
I just went with that one because it was the cheapest option. The Display price on Amazon seems to be much cheaper than the B&H price. https://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-CMUNDIS-ColorMunki-Display/dp/B0055MBQOM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478906924&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=colormunki
I recommend using a colorimeter to make a custom profile. I wanted better contrast and high saturation so I used one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0055MBQOM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 with display cal to calibrate for like 2.4 gamma.
I've been using a ColorMunki for two years now. Love the little thing. No need to understand how it works, I just put it on my screen once every few months and it does it's thing.
Did my new AOC AG352UCG yesterday :D
I use the colormonki by xrite, love it and made a huge difference when I used to print to my decent canon color copier. Also if you send files out for printing (adorama for example) you should get their color profiles and adjust your images as necessary so it will be wysiwyg.
Black and white probably not that big a deal, but for color it's great.
Every monitor is different, I used to go crazy seeing perfect color rendition on my screen, then looking at the same image on someone else's monitor and eeeekkk! I'm over that now, I reckon 90% or more computer users don't have any clue or care about it.
Any recommendations? I’ve come across this same one
You really need to create your own ICC profile using something like an i1 Display Pro
Another way is to get a Colorimeter to calibrate/measure 8bit or 10bit color to ensure they are accurate. Which is what most graphic designer/print work professionals use:
https://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-i1Display-Pro-Display-Calibration/dp/B0055MBQOW/
I bought this http://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-EODIS3-i1Display-Pro/dp/B0055MBQOW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1405474564&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=xrite
It basically hangs on your monitor for 2 minutes and tells you what settings to change. It made my drop my blue channel from 100 to 88 and adjust the brightness a little as well.
The result is a little more yellow, which apparently is normal.
The spider's actually kind of suck. These are much more reliable
https://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-i1Display-Pro-Display-Calibration/dp/B0055MBQOW
source: 5 years of color work for broadcast
Look into a device like the X-Rite i1Display Pro and the free DisplayCAL software. Love mine.
https://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-i1Display-Pro-Display-Calibration/dp/B0055MBQOW
no i mean an actual color calibration unit. One of these to be precise
https://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-i1Display-Pro-Display-Calibration/dp/B0055MBQOW
Thanks for sharing. This is pretty good if you have the stuff already laying around and don't mind keeping a bulky box around. I had been looking at some cheap setups on Amazon as listed below, but maybe a hybrid approach of getting a pre-made box that collapses and then using cheaper lights, including some I already have.
Just a world of caution, especially if you use halogen or incandescent lights with tissue paper... fire hazard, be careful there.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008JO1QGQ/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CX9S8A
LimoStudio 16" x 16" Table Top Photo Photography Studio Lighting Light Tent Kit in a... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CX9S8A/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_OndeAbQWW4CRQ
I heard this was a pretty good setup:
https://www.amazon.com/LimoStudio-Photography-Studio-Lighting-AGG349/dp/B005CX9S8A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467387168&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=foldio
What is a good photo studio/light box for a starter who does not have much space in his house? I bought this because it looked like a good deal. I don't hate it, I just hate the amount of editing I have to do on the photos because of poor quality. Like this one I need to do a TON of editing to fix some of the imperfections.
I have this one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CX9S8A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_onRXBbYRA0N0E
It's good enough but the fabric backgrounds were wrinkled which was annoying. You can see that in the photos. I'll show you some photos I took with it.
http://imgur.com/a/Wmauqy4
I looked on YouTube for where to put the lights. I hadn't thought of putting them outside the box. It makes a way better effect outside the box being diffused through fabric than straight on. Good luck!
Natural, diffused light (a cloudy day) is best.
Do you have a tripod (essential).
Are you using the default camera app or something like Camera Awesome?
Something like this is really good: LimoStudio 16" x 16" Table Top Photo Photography Studio Lighting Light Tent Kit in a Box, AGG349
Although the lights are probably too yellow. Instead just use your painting lamp(s).
Here's what I use: https://www.amazon.com/LimoStudio-Photography-Studio-Lighting-AGG349/dp/B005CX9S8A/ref=sr_1_51_sspa?keywords=light+box&amp;qid=1572890154&amp;sr=8-51-spons&amp;psc=1&amp;spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyNktWNjdLSjhTT1NPJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDA5NzE0V0VRSk9CQ0ExUlVHJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA2Mzg0MjIxSTBORFdUNVFQREVRJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmX25leHQmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl
LimoStudio 16" x 16" Table Top Photo Photography Studio Lighting Light Tent Kit in a Box, AGG349 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CX9S8A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JMQQAb19A7TRG
Don't forget about lighting! Lighting is probably the most important thing with food/product photography. If your budget is really tight, I at least recommend picking up this inexpensive box and small but sturdy tripod to ensure sharp and detailed shots!
It's never too late! ...unless you glued parts together x_x
And Thank you! I use this:
LimoStudio 16" x 16" Table Top Photo Photography Studio Lighting Light Tent Kit in a Box, AGG349 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CX9S8A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_EvGkybSDHRF61
but I found that 16x16 is a bit small for a model of this size, so I bought a larger tent separately. I used an iPhone5c camera
I've got the same item and am trying to recreate this shot with a similar quality.
http://i.imgur.com/MxQRWKS.jpg
My GF has a Nikon D3100 and I've been trying my best to replicate the shot, but am struggling mightily. I have no real idea as to what I'm doing and it seems as if the pictures my Google Pixel phone takes are much better. I've played around with the manual settings and have cycled through all of the preset options. I've tried with flash and without flash.
I also have this table top light box setup.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005CX9S8A/
Here's a few examples of the pictures I'm getting.
http://imgur.com/a/tEWLj
I understand he's using photoshop as the shadows and edges are so clean, but how is he getting such a perfect edge? There isn't a single miscropped area within his picture.
http://i.imgur.com/LIlpkhi.jpg
Nothing crazy. Just a cheap tent in a box setup.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005CX9S8A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I just got around to using my lightbox NSFW. $40 from Amazon with 2 lights.
I have some other work safe shots of another figure, but the light was too close and ended up washing out the face.
Here's the one I have. I was going to build another one when my cardboard one breaks, but I figured since this one already comes with lights and a stand, it would be worth it to spend a little more, and just buy a pre-made one
Thank you! this is the light box I picked up. Good deal, I think. I'm happy with it.
I would need to look up the bulbs that I have on top, because they're part of a super old lighting kit that I used like 5 or 6 years ago. The two little lights in front are from this tent kit I purchased:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005CX9S8A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Do you have any suggestions for my white balance setting on my camera? I think right now I just have it set on Auto White Balance
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005CX9S8A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478814984&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=light+box+photography# this is what I use.
i got 2 sets of lights.
Personally I just went for it and got
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005FHZ2SI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kfVByb3M3GG3G
Worth it. Brought them with me in Christmas to get good lighting for photos. Great success!(;
Came with carrying case and everything!
Thanks! I've been eyeing something cheap like this (comes with stand):
https://www.amazon.com/Photography-Portrait-Continuous-LimoStudio-LMS103/dp/B005FHZ2SI/ref=sr_1_2?s=photo&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1474599365&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=light+set
Have you used the neewer one? Seems like it would be a great key light. I've heard the cheaper ones can sometimes have flicker problems, but the reviews are kind of amazing for it only being $33. Might have to pick it up. What's your lighting like?
https://www.amazon.com/Photography-Portrait-Umbrella-Continuous-LimoStudio/dp/B005FHZ2SI/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=lighting+setup&amp;qid=1565406980&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3
http://www.amazon.com/Photography-Portrait-Continuous-LimoStudio-LMS103/dp/B005FHZ2SI
This is the light kit I have. It works really well for starting out and its like 51 bucks.
That's pretty limited space for a green screen, but two simple umbrella lamps (at about 45-60' angles L & R) would probably suffice. If you have the space and can put one on either side of your computer table, that would probably work. You can get them fairly cheaply on Amazon.
Something like this (just an example): http://www.amazon.com/Photography-Portrait-Continuous-LimoStudio-LMS103/dp/B005FHZ2SI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462284480&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=umbrella+studio+light
A top light can be very helpful, but it's more difficult to pull off in the average home environment. A ceiling lamp should suffice. A small back-light is nice too, and some studio lighting kits come with them. Might not be realistic with 1-2' behind you though.
There are lots of professional lighting tip videos on youtube, etc. I only have one lamp (umbrella-type) in use on my streaming setup at the moment, but I learned a lot about professional studio lighting just from watching videos. Good luck!
Edit: If you would like to see what one lamp looks like in a typical home environment, go ahead and spend 30 seconds on one of my VODs. What you'll see is:
1 x run of the mill umbrella studio light with a somewhat expensive 1950 lumen 6000K daylight bulb (LED) - placement is about a meter to my front-right, at about 45'.
1 x normal ceiling lamp w/ 2 x 13w soft-white bulbs (LED) - located about 4 feet rear-right at about 45'.
My lighting solution is acceptable IMO, but is in no way "professional" (my space restrictions make a full lighting solution impossible). However, you can see what even a single light diffusing umbrella with a very good bulb can do to help.
I started with a similar cheap kit to this: http://www.amazon.com/Photography-Portrait-Continuous-LimoStudio-LMS103/dp/B005FHZ2SI?ie=UTF8&amp;keywords=light%20kit&amp;qid=1462400627&amp;ref_=sr_1_3&amp;sr=8-3
I still use it to this day from time to time although with softboxes. Anything from cowboystudio (or similar names that en with studio, limostudio, fancystudio) will do fine for starting. They are cheap made but I grew my kit from there. Changed the bulbs for more powerful ones. Put a 1 bulb to 4 bulb adapter. Bought a couple led panels, better stands etc.
Buy one or two 5 in 1 reflectors with c stands and clips.
If you want a better kit (your budget seems to allow it) I would get individual lights and build a kit. I'm a big fan of led. I always shoot raw so as long as my lights have the same color temps I'm usually fine.
Hope that helps.
Your lighting setup matters a lot more than the camera for product shots and it’s pretty important for video too.
Look into a canon m50 or Sony a6300 as good starting points.
From there, because you’re doing video I guess just get continuous lights. For my wife we just use one light that holds four regular light bulbs (we use daylight balance led bulbs) and has a thing to hold an umbrella. Similar to this. A three light setup like that would be good for video but you probably want a bit more than a single bulb per light (you can always unscrew a bulb or two if it’s too much.
For product photography. I just don’t know how to properly light that stuff.
Photography Light stands are your best friend. Anything that has a camera mount (threaded screw that goes into the bottom of a camera) will work with the rift sensors.
I bought this kit for my wife's dress photography sessions but she stopped using them. The stands are PERFECT for either a full 3 sensor room setup OR just the rear sensor.
It seems that your comment contains 1 or more links that are hard to tap for mobile users.
I will extend those so they're easier for our sausage fingers to click!
Here is link number 1 - Previous text "kit"
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^Please ^PM ^/u/eganwall ^with ^issues ^or ^feedback! ^| ^Delete
Why don't you get the photolights?
I know they're a bit pricier, but they will last longer and, in the end, might end up costing the same amount.
Top seller on amazon
I would really like to know, as these are almost tempting to for me to buy.
Thanks for your response! Yeah, this is the kit: http://www.amazon.com/Photography-Portrait-Continuous-LimoStudio-LMS103/dp/B005FHZ2SI?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00.
Sure! This is what I bought:
Photography Photo Portrait... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005FHZ2SI?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
To add on, I found this on Amazon. Any thoughts? Would something like this provide accurate lighting?
This one is pretty good and inexpensive. https://www.amazon.com/Dimmable-Digital-Camcorder-Panasonic-Samsung/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=pd_rhf_gw_p_img_8?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=NMP5J0XA8YH8KRYX80RR
You could set your self up pretty good with $500. I have a couple suggestions, but the first would be to get yourself a cheap prime lens first. Either a 50mm 1.8 or a 24mm pancake. Both are around $100 and would still leave quite a bit in your budget. So, saying you go ahead and do that:
You could choose to fire then optically with your Canon speed lite or get one of these
That's a decent, portable, and effective setup with two lenses for right about $500.
Since your using someone else's studio lugging equipment is gonna be a pain. That's why I think speed lights is the way to go. But if you don't mind, look into a monolight kit. For your portraits I really do think you'll like what you get from a fast prime lens.
Camera: canon t6 refurbished $350
audio: rode ntg2, an xlr cable, cheap boom pole
You can get the mic used for about $200, spend another $200 for a tascam dr-60
A 5 in 1 reflector kit from neewer for another $20
A few clamp lights and 3200/5600k bulbs
An okay tripod for now
And a cheap shoulder rig
That all should come out to around $1000 and should definitely be enough to get you started. Some of the stuff is a bit cheaper and you’ll need to replace as you move on and understand your needs better but there’s not much quality equipment to be bought if you need a whole package for around $1000
In terms of sticky tape, mine fell off 2 hours after installing the lighthouses and pulled a bit of the paint along too :( I just bought 2 long tripods which work perfectly. You could get some off of amazon easily or take your lighthouse to a camera store near you and fit it on some tripods and see which ones you like!
EDIT: These seem good and are pretty cheap too.
Dude, just order this.
I do this as my job. Some things you could work on:
If it's just fan footage none of this is really important.
I can appreciate the work and the DIY aspect here, but amazon sells a great collapsible led light box for around 130$.
update: here's the Amazon light box:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GIL6EU4/ref=s9_acss_bw_cg_PhotoBox_4a1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-1&amp;pf_rd_r=2N4JE4BYRXYE00RHNASM&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_p=088b621d-a7b0-4879-9e8c-f21aa5bb5801&amp;pf_rd_i=14725653011
Non-mobile: This
^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?
If you haven't ordered yet I would recommend these light stands. I had my vive in the dorms downstairs for a couple of hours and they seemed stable enough to support the vibration of the lighthouses. Also, surprisingly, the bag it came with is incredibly good quality. I use these mounts on my tripods to angle down the lighthouses. Cant use the floor to ceiling mounts all places. Where I was yesterday the ceilings are 15' or more.
It only takes a few minutes to move your computer and set up the Vive in a new room. Use your living room when you want to play a roomscale game or have friends over, and the smaller room for standing or seated games. Amazon has some cheap tripods that make setting up the lighthouses a snap.
https://smile.amazon.com/Neewer-centimeters-Portrait-Product-Photography/dp/B00L4YR0BS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497667542&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=Vive+stand
Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!
Here are your smile-ified links:
https://smile.amazon.com/Neewer-centimeters-Octagonal-Speedlight-Photography/dp/B00PIM3I6I
https://smile.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Premium-Shoot-Through-Translucent-Umbrella
https://smile.amazon.com/Neewer-Professional-Universal-Speedlite-Umbrella/dp/B00JJJR7PY
https://smile.amazon.com/Neewer-centimeters-Portrait-Product-Photography/dp/B00L4YR0BS
https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Electronic-Flash-DSLR-Cameras/dp/B01I09WHLW
https://smile.amazon.com/Neewer-Wireless-Speedlite-Receiver-Universal/dp/B00A47U22U/
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You people need to calibrate your displays or something. I could see everything just fine.
Get one of these. It's pricey, but it's worth it.
> and the things you could see were tactically awful.
And that is a problem with writing. Which I said is an issue.
That said; the Dothraki thing most people point to isn't actually an issue IMO. They were cavalry, scouting enemy lines and reporting back the way they were supposed to. But yes, there were several other things which were tactically stupid.
Buy a $50 light kit for fucks sake
https://www.amazon.com/Photography-Portrait-Umbrella-Continuous-LimoStudio-x/dp/B005FHZ2SI/