Best car battery chargers & accessories according to redditors

We found 1,107 Reddit comments discussing the best car battery chargers & accessories. We ranked the 415 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Subcategories:

Automotive replacement batteries
Car battery accessories
Automotive portable power supplies

Top Reddit comments about Automotive Replacement Batteries & Accessories:

u/letigre87 · 16 pointsr/videos

Never wheel alone
Keep a tow strap, preferably a kinetic yanker
Keep an air compressor
Air down your tires
Stay out of the water, your diff and trans breather tubes are about 20 inches off the ground and they will suck water

If you're going to break any of the those rules, buy a winch and self recovery block
Above all else, NEVER WHEEL ALONE!!!

u/rainishamy · 11 pointsr/SleepApnea

I feel you friend. I also went camping but did take one of those car jump all in one batteries along with a 12 volt power adapter for my machine. it had worked the previous camping trip for about three to four days just fine. But this time, it died at 1 a.m. the first night and I was awake the rest of the night. I simply cannot sleep without my cpap at this point. The rest of the trip was a misery, next night slept in the passenger seat of my Prius with the CPAP plugged and car on (on but not running). trying to sleep in a seat sucks, but the car turned itself off every hour so it was hardly any better than that first night. I believe the next night I slept in the bed of a truck with a CPAP plugged in in the truck (again, on but not running) through the little back window and it worked much better. Until it rained.

So the NEXT camping trip I got my shit together.

Get a deep marine battery. These are designed to power small things on a boat and are used to the small dribble of electricity over a long period of time. Get a battery box to place it in for safety, and a battery tender to charge it before the trip. You'll want a ring terminal harness to attach to the battery posts, and a female 12 volt adapter to plug your machine into.

The box contains everything safely with just the plugs you want sticking out the slots in the lid, but if there's small children in the camp you may want to ratchet strap it closed to be on the safe side.

I got battery and box at my local walmart. The rest from Amazon.


Female cigarette adapter:
Battery Tender Black 081-0069-8 Female Cigarette Adaptor for Quick Disconnect https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0041CDPQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_173UCbVCXJH0M

Ring terminal harness:

Battery Tender 081-0069-6 Ring Terminal Harness with Black Fused 2-Pin Quick Disconnect Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7-3UCbPET1K8N

Battery tender to charge your battery:

Battery Tender 12 Volt Junior Automatic Battery Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CITK8S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ak4UCbQYJBZCA

And of course you'll need to get the 12 volt power adapter. Look up the model maker of your CPAP machine and Google away to see where you can find one. I looked for my manual and then I found the one that was recommended in the manual along with recommendations. Mine recommends I do not use the water chamber when using the 12 volt power adapter due to power consumption and no way am I risking the battery running out of power before the trip is over. I got the adapter from a generic CPAP supplies website.

Good luck! I'm going camping this summer I hope my setup still works!

I usually camp out of state with family and have a few nights in a house before heading home. I always bring a new face mask new filter and even a new hose if I have one as after camping the machine reeks of woodsmoke and it drives me absolutely batty.


Edited to fix oh so many typos.

PS: I will edit the links more pretty when I'm on a desktop sorry about the non pretty formatting

u/yotamonk · 10 pointsr/answers

Tech from ND here, you need to test the cold cranking amperage (cca) of your battery. I’m betting it’s pretty low. Most car parts stores will test it for you. Then when you end up replacing it look for a battery with higher than 800 cca. They are obviously more expensive but pretty necessary in your climate. To further combat your issue, they make battery heaters that are similar to a block heater, basically a sleeve you put over the battery and plug into the wall when you know it’s gonna be cold.
https://www.amazon.com/Kats-22200-Watt-Battery-Thermal/dp/B000I8XD9E

u/popcorncheese · 10 pointsr/motorcycles

Sounds like the tender harness that I've got with the in line fuse https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ for a tender.

u/insan3guy · 9 pointsr/motorcycles

I took my first bike (2001 ninja 250) from NC to seattle, coast to coast, 2 months after I got it. Long trips are great as long as you prepare for them.

1 - Maintenance. If there are any intervals that will happen during or soon after your trip, do them before you leave.

2 - Get roadside assistance or something similar. At least have the number for a tow truck.

3 - Make sure you can charge your phone/other stuff. Basic hookup involves something like this, or a battery tender cable with an adapter. I did the second one, with the quick disconnect between my seat (where the cable comes out from the battery) and my tank bag, where all the wires are.

Getting to the actual riding part...

1 - Wind isn't as much of a problem as you might think. It can suck, but if you stay relaxed it'll be just fine. Remember, the bike will always want to stay up, so just let it do its thing. (your bike weighs ~650lbs, it's not going to be too badly affected anyway)

2 - Take breaks! At least once an hour, pull over for 30 seconds or so and get off the bike. Walk around it, drink some water. Fatigue has a nasty habit of creeping up on you without you realizing it.

3 - Stay hydrated and fed, and keep a bottle of water with you.


That's all I have for right now, I'll edit later if I think of something else

edit: get some earbuds or a big old speaker if you're against headphones while riding. Hours upon hours of road without a radio or anything gets boring insanely fast.

u/Zen_Drifter · 8 pointsr/cars

I have three roadsters that I store for 6-7 months every winter.

I fill the fuel tank to the top and put an appropriate amount of fuel stabilizer in it, then run it for 5-10 minutes to get it mixed-through the lines.

I over-inflate the tires to 40-45 lbs to reduce flat-spotting.

I put each car on one of these battery tenders. If this is a one-time storage thing you can just disconnect the battery and plan on having to charge or jump it when you get back, or just plan to replace it if it's already old.

I leave a car cover over it.

Six months isn't that big of a deal. I started-up a 50-year-old carbureted Datsun yesterday that had been sitting for 8 months and it started and ran just fine. The worst thing you are likely to experience is some flat spotting on the tires that will cause a little shimmy in your steering wheel (similar to an unbalanced wheel) but which go away in 5-10 miles of driving.

u/whitcwa · 7 pointsr/DIY

You can get clips already wired to an accessory outlet.

https://www.amazon.com/Roadpro-Battery-Cigarette-Lighter-Adapter/dp/B00065L2D8

u/EternalNY1 · 7 pointsr/AskReddit

I use one of these which has saved me on multiple occasions ... and is much easier than bothering with jumper cables where you need another vehicle to assist.

u/bm96 · 6 pointsr/askcarguys

Window breaker and a seat belt cutter. As well as a first aid kit, multi-tool/knife. Also invest in a nice jump starter that doesn't require another car.

u/The_Axelrod · 6 pointsr/VEDC

I used to work at a car auction, jump starting hundreds of cars a day. We went through several different brands before settling on these, from Amazon. I had one that lasted through the better part of 2 years, with 2x daily drain/charge cycles, getting thrown off golf carts, cracked, dropped, ran over, etc.

https://www.amazon.com/Clore-Automotive-Jump-N-Carry-JNC660-Starter/dp/B000JFJLP6/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=jump+starter&qid=1574138847&s=automotive&sr=1-4

u/Aedelmann · 6 pointsr/Dualsport

Install one of these as well as one of these and you're good to go. That is the setup I have running to my handlebars for my phone while riding. I also installed a switch so I can stop it from pulling power when parked or raining or whatever, you can see the switch glowing red under my seat.

u/youAreAllRetards · 6 pointsr/klr650

Height should be your biggest concern.

I'm 5'11", with kinda short legs, too. I couldn't ride this bike if it were any higher. You can get lowering links, and a different seat, and you should be OK - right about where I'm at, but it may never be "like a glove" comfortable.

It will totally get the city job done. Little box on the back, and you're good to go. When they hit potholes, and nearly lose it, you'll float over like nothing. Mine is a daily commuter and a weekend warrior. There is nothing this bike won't do "pretty ok".

Riding is riding. Unless you're trying to keep up with people doing 80+, you'll be just fine. The bike is as much fun as any other bike on the street at <60mph. I've ridden with groups of guys on harleys, groups of older guys on Can-Am and Goldwing trikes, adventure bike groups, groups of kids on dirtbikes, families on atvs, and in giant packs of streetbikes on weekend evenings.

Travelling far distance ... don't do it unless you're comfortable on a bike already. Riding for hours on end can play tricks with your concentration and whatnot. If you must, and you're not that experienced, plan on a 15-20 minute break for every hour riding. Just do it.

Here's some shit that I learned the hard way:

Change the oil/filters before you go, and check the plug. Check your air filter after 1000 miles of highway/trail. Plan your trip to avoid interstate. You will be much more relaxed on smaller highways, and you won't have as many trucks and their drafts to contend with. Calculate your gas mileage at every fillup. Little problems can show up as dropping mileage before they become big problems. Put some flat stop in your tubes. Give the tires a push check before starting every time. Bring rain riding gear, and hope you don't need it. Get a throttle lock. Either a good one or a cheap one. The KLR will vibrate your hands numb, you will need to get your hand off the bars for a bit. Wear a camelback water bag. A good GPS/phone mount that offers visibility without having to look away from the road is really nice when going through unfamiliar towns. Make sure you have a usb charger if you don't have a 12v socket. for your gps/phone on the bike. Carry extra cheap eye protection. One of those ATV seat pads can help if you get a sore ass easily. Don't beeline it to your destination - make a point to include a side-trip up a mountain or something as often as you can.

I think you'll end up liking the bike, and you'll end up going on that "adventure" ride sooner than you think :)

Lanesplitting is as easy as you want it to be, with no panniers. It starts to get hairy above 60, because after that the KLR just doesn't have the instant go that you need to zip through smaller spaces. So at those speeds, you're more like a cruiser bike. But at city speeds, once you've been in the saddle a few months, it feels really small in traffic.



u/Jahire_Subdumbum · 6 pointsr/motorcycles

That seems correct. Check your battery and look for extra cables there. There should be a little cable that has a fuse added to it, if so, then you are golden. Just get a USB adapter and you have a quick phone charger. I run a similar system on my bike for long trips.


Battery tender USB adapter thingy

u/alshayed · 6 pointsr/SleepApnea

Personally for local or camping (not air travel) I like the 35-55 AH AGM SLA scooter batteries. (SLA = sealed lead acid aka non-spillable) If you turn of heated hose & humidification (passover humidification is okay) they will last a few nights. See the ResMed battery guide for more detailed run estimates at https://www.resmed.com/us/dam/documents/articles/198103_battery-guide_glo_eng.pdf.

Basic list of parts you need:

u/steve0suprem0 · 5 pointsr/motorcycles
u/TheTurd · 5 pointsr/Harley

Skip the cigarette adapter. THIS is all you need to connect to the tender wire you have.

u/TheYeags · 5 pointsr/teslamotors

I am only aware on one user claiming there was an error and that user correlated that to his recent install of a hardwired blackvue. No real science there and highly speculative.

The way I hardwired into the 12v was simple. I bought this: NOCO GC018 12V Adapter Plug Socket with Eyelet Terminal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G8WLW2Y?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

and installed on the battery terminal. It has an in line 10amp fuse and tucks away neatly under the hood. Then I ran the blackvue power cable into the car through the firewall where Tesla provides a very nice rubber plug to do so. Everything took about an hour to do (and I did it twice after doing it the first time without a fuse and it worked fine - just wanted to be extra safe)

u/TreborEnglish · 5 pointsr/vandwellers

I have a 75 amp hour group size 24 flooded lead acid battery. At 37.5 amp hours, 50%, that's 450 watt hours. It was $80 at Sam's. The inverter I have, a Harbor Freight 400/800, is $25, I got it for $20 with a coupon.

You mentioned control switch. I don't have one as I replaced my starter battery with my deep cycle battery. To have two batteries with a switch, consider the amazon voltage sensitive relay, $85.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WTAFR84/
What it does is it detects when the alternator has charged the starter battery then it turns on the connection to the house battery. There is no need to find a circuot that is on at the right time to control a big relay.

If you want a 120 volt battery charger you could get from Amazon, $55,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009IBJCQ/
It's a 10 amp charger.

$240 for the cheap do it yourself flooded lead acid system. Solar is another $150 or so. The $450 Yeti is similar. Yeti gets you lithium for less weight and easier charging at $600. With solar it's $740.

Is this what you wanted with "site some examples"?

u/chase_phish · 5 pointsr/bestoflegaladvice

I keep one of these in my trunk.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000JFJLP6/

u/elkster88 · 5 pointsr/motorcycles

> I can't get the bolts on the battery leads loose

Try a 10mm socket rather than a screwdriver.

Like /u/greenslither says, once you get your battery cables loose, fit this harness and use a Battery Tender or equivalent.

u/btbrian · 5 pointsr/chicago

I know it won't help you immediately, but if you're willing to "throw $20 at somebody" for a jump, just buy one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Jump-N-Carry-JNC300XL-Ultraportable-Starter-Light/dp/B000XQ9MGE

$65 and it's insanely useful. I just had to use mine last week for the first time and it was super fast and easy, and it still had its charge from last winter.

u/sharps21 · 5 pointsr/projectcar

There are also These I've got them on a few vehicles, very handy just a 1/2 turn or so and the battery is disconnected. They're installed on the negative side and work very nicely.

u/Chatterboxj · 5 pointsr/cars

They make a battery clamp that unscrews and disconnects the beg battery cable when a vehicle will be sitting for a long time. It is commonly used on motor homes and campers. Easy to pick up at most auto parts stores.

Here is one. Top Post Battery Master Disconnect Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001N729FS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_98GCCb732JJV6

u/bayank · 5 pointsr/motorcycles

Get This and then get This. You should be golden.

u/chipperjatl · 5 pointsr/overlanding

I have one of these that I really like. The compressor is crap, but it will charge electronics for days and has never let me down on a jump start. I have an ARB compressor and I'm working on a dual battery set up so it will soon be obsolete, but it has served me well the last couple of years.

u/_Bombies · 5 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

https://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-XP2260-Instant-Portable-Source/dp/B004EIAADG

I'd recommend this if you have the budget for it. It's also useful to jump start your car in case... My employees use this at the camping festivals they go to, to charge their batteries. Either that or just buy extra sets of batteries to last you a week along.

Aside from that, possibly some portable chargers, or a portable charger with an efficient solar panel to recharge that as well if you have any mods with internal batteries.

u/suspire · 5 pointsr/SolarDIY

Done.

  • Solar Controller
  • Converter Charger
  • Inverter
  • Battery
  • Grand total so far is us$ 290. I havent included a box, wires as needed, 12v outlet, and fuses (the yeti says it isnt fused) all of which you could source for under $50.00. It would have more than 3 times the battery storage capacity and better charging specs.

    Edit: Link here to the Goal Zero Yeti AGM for comparison.
u/UnicornPumaShark · 5 pointsr/Porsche

This is what I have. It's the same as the official one sans the branding.

u/09RaiderSFCRet · 5 pointsr/Fixxit

And this USB adapter plugs into it to charge your phone and such. www.amazon.com/dp/B00DJ5KEF4?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

u/fossum_13 · 4 pointsr/Fixxit

I choose to keep the battery part separate. If that's what you want, here's what I got.

Battery Tender 081-0069-8... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0041CDPQO?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Battery Tender 081-0069-6... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NCOKZQ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

u/Ski1215 · 4 pointsr/motorcycles

I use one of these

http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-8-Cigarette-Disconnect/dp/B0041CDPQO/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_img_b

Conncted to one of these

http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_img_b

Get a small 12v-usb adapter and you can charge most small electronics.
http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-F8Z445ttP-F8Z445ea-USB-Charger/dp/B0047T79TA/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1343024563&sr=1-3&keywords=12v+usb+adapter

The whole set up cost me under 25$ to make and I can charge most small electronics, my GPS, and the SAE cable lets me run my battery tender during the winter without removing any fairings. The only thing I wish I had done differently was put them all to a relay for fuse block, but they all have inline fuses so I'm not terribly concerned about it.

u/ThellraAK · 4 pointsr/AskLEO

I drive cab and our owner changed the rule for that, I'm sure you already have way to much stuff, but these are the bomb.

u/soggysecret · 4 pointsr/240sx
u/StolidSentinel · 4 pointsr/vandwellers

In short... yes. Unless you want to replace the battery in a year or so.

A CTEK DS250 (https://www.amazon.com/CTEK-56-677-Automatic-Battery-Charger/dp/B005LBCVL4) is designed to charge the Dual-battery set up properly. I really don't know of many others that do the same thing. There's also the "Smart pass" from CTEK that combine the solar charging into the mix as well. I think it'll also charge your start batt when the house is done also.

u/TheSpin1 · 4 pointsr/vandwellers

I got one of these. Definitely recommend it.

12V 140 Amp Dual Battery Smart Isolator by KeyLine - VSR - Voltage Sensitive Relay Specially Designed for ATV, UTV, Boats, RV's, Campers 5th Wheels Of https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WTAFR84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_mP5zMs7p9Xver

u/Karcinagin · 3 pointsr/Harley

Appears to be a good design. The only spot I could see water being a problem would be the the 2-pole connection, but you do not have to use that or could hide the connection in the battery compartment. But for $40 I would attempt to make this myself. Just make sure you have an inline fuse. Or look at this and it even has USB. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FR2JF0W/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_x5XEub01RE0HP. If you are looking for just USB there is this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DJ5KEF4/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_A8XEub0EXCW4G

u/phil128 · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

Items used:

Battery SAE Connector $6
SEA connection that has 4 plugs. If I need to hook up a battery charger or air compressor it's nice.

USB Power $10 I used one for the phone itself and one for the hub, however you only need one. I just didnt not want the amplifier taking power away from charging the phone. Redundancy is nice too. Extra USB ports for whatever.

USB Hub $7 For all the gadgets.

USB Phone Power Cable $5 This is the real weak point in the setup. I've gone through a lot of these. monoprice.com is good for really cheap cords.

[Phone Audio output(between phone and amplifier)] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F9KUF7O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
$7 Quality cord here. Purchased for the right angle plug.

[Amplifier]( http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HJWWW8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 $28
Amplifier output connection: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00007FGU7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) $30 After not being able to hear very well with no amplifier, this greatly improved the experience.

Helmet coil cord $5 With this cord you never know the cord is there until you get off the bike and it will break away.

Helmet speakers: $10 I found a great deal on ebay for some "hoodie" speakers and I epoxied them in the helmet. You could always use this setup with earbuds too, but I was never fond of getting them pulled out while riding.

Phone mount $35 I would trust it will an $800 phone.

Total Cost w/ Phone Mount: $ 115

u/TheStuffle · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

Seems pretty normal to me, I have one on my bike. It shares the hookups for my battery tender but it's the same idea.

I don't see why it would drain the battery unless you have a phone plugged into it.

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0158-Disconnect-Smartphone/dp/B00DJ5KEF4

u/vinnard · 3 pointsr/motocamping

I've had this for over a year and it works great

If you buy a battery tender it comes with one of these that the usb thingy hooks right up to. I just have it hanging out the side of my bike and I can easily tuck it up under the fairings.

u/afeagle1021 · 3 pointsr/Triumph
u/MorleyDotes · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

Battery Tender makes a quick disconnect plug. I have one on my bike that I use to connect the tender. You screw it onto the battery terminals. I also have a USB plug that I can connect to it and charge phones, cameras, whatever.

u/Milge · 3 pointsr/Harley

If your heart isn't set on the 2 gallon tank, try a 3 gallon. It would look good and fill in that gap between the seat and tank. I do 120+ miles on my 48 weekly.

Since everyone is mentioning phones, I use one of these when my phone dies. It will let you charge your phone off of the battery tender connector.

u/kc2syk · 3 pointsr/amateurradio

What kind of range do you want? 12V battery + adapter + Car FM adapter. Plug in your phone and you can transmit whatever audio you play. Perfectly legal under FCC Part 15 rules.

Edit: fix link

u/Bageeka · 3 pointsr/Jeep

Probably becuase there's so much exposed wire. Those terminals and wires should be upgraded like yesterday. Not trying to sound like a dick, but the charging system is one of the most important parts of any vehicle and it needs good tight connections. And a small amount of dielectric grease wouldnt hurt

Get a system like this. Or if you can just buy the terminals and get the crimp rings elsewhere, either way it's a worthwhile upgrade and much cleaner

u/Willuz · 3 pointsr/DIY

You really don't want an inverter. That would just go from DC to AC and back to DC again for no reason. Each conversion lowers the efficiency and wastes energy. The inverter would also be more expensive than just buying a 12vDC to 20vDC adapter.

A much better solution would be to get both of these and use them together:

https://www.amazon.com/Roadpro-Battery-Cigarette-Lighter-Adapter/dp/B00065L2D8

https://www.savingology.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=Car-12V-Apple-MD212LL-A-EGR&click=2&gclid=COC9lOaGs9MCFYdMDQod0LIPTg

The first plug just gives you a cigarette lighter plug at 12vDC. The second will convert the voltage to 20vdc at 4.25A and charge your laptop.

u/scarabin · 3 pointsr/BurningMan

that'd do it; i don't know why you'd need two inverters though.

also you want a deep cycle battery rather than a regular car one as car batteries are designed for short bursts of high energy rather than a sustained drain. deep cycle batteries are used for running the electricity on boats and RVs. make sure to get one that's "100ah" or higher. that's essentially the amount of power available in the battery and the more you have the longer you can power your stuff. you can get two and connect them in parallel (google image this for a diagram) to increase your available energy.

you'll also want to get a battery charge reader so you can monitor how much charge the battery has. a full charged battery is 12.6v, and you should turn everything off and recharge if you dip down to 12v as that's around 50% charge and anything less than that will actually kill your battery and it won't charge again.

definitely don't do the gennie, we have enough air and noise pollution out there...


battery
http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Power-Group-45978-Battery/dp/B0044Z8DJW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1374787029&sr=8-1&keywords=UPG+UB121000

combine these two items to create a battery charge reader
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00065L2D8/ref=oh_details_o00_s01_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVWDU0/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/bsurfer9352 · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Link for tender. Correction it's $40.

u/Snownel · 3 pointsr/CrownVictoria

Check last week's thread on this. In short, read the reviews on Amazon. They are not good. I would stay away.

Second, do not waste your money on a lithium jump starter. Again, check the reviews - don't just look at the star rating, but read them. They fail quickly and often dangerously. NOCOs are especially notorious for the charging circuitry blowing itself up and not working anymore only a few months after purchase. And that's the leading brand for the market... you want to carry a Chinese Taobao special lithium battery in your trunk all the time?

Finally, to answer your question, if the car's battery is totally dead, no, probably not reliably. The CVPI's starter draws around 200 amps. This battery will not be able to supply that reliably. The 600 peak amp rating is total marketing wank and means basically nothing. The 300 starting amp rating is only for 32° F or above for 5 seconds when the battery is brand new and fully charged. Your typical car battery is rated in cold cranking amps, which is measured at 0° F for 30 seconds. A CVPI's starter may only draw 200 amps, but most car batteries you find for the CVPI will be 500-1000 cold cranking amps.

I would look at one of these. Even the higher-spec Stanley units have bad reviews across the board.

u/traphoopqueen · 3 pointsr/ElectricForest

out of all the camping fests ive went to over the years, forest is the most on-top of their porter poties. i schedule my bowl-movements with the clean-up crew (last year, 8am and then 5pm. judge me) at camp and in the forest, there are some nicer porter potties near sherwood court that had AC and lights, but in the venue only/VIP. as for electricity, get a portable external like [this] (https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000JFJLP6/ref=psdc_318336011_t1_B000JFHNQA) and for lights, just make sure it runs on AA batteries, such as [this] (https://smile.amazon.com/Outdoor-Battery-Operated-dimmable-Waterproof/dp/B01AWG1SLG/ref=sr_1_4?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1494260079&sr=1-4&keywords=battery+powered+lights). remember, it is only 4 days so you'll be able to take as many hot showers/eat as much good food you want after the fact <3

u/Who_da_WHAT_the_fff · 3 pointsr/tifu

> https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000JFJLP6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484856498&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=clore+jump+starter

My 2000 Dakota ate batteries like they were fucking candy at Halloween. I could count on replacing it every three years. But, that was the only thing that ever went wrong in 15 years of ownership (and one heater core at 150,000 miles). Other than regular maintenance I had no expenses. Wish I hadn't upgraded.

u/headmustard · 3 pointsr/flying

As far as actual spare parts.... fuses. As far as important travel stuff, well all the normal goodies plus I like to carry one of those portable battery jump packs for cars. But I spent $$$ on a decent one, not the crap at Walmart.


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JFJLP6?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

u/Taurik · 3 pointsr/Cartalk

I've been very happy with the Battery Tender brand. I have a friend who uses this on his boat (it's designed not to overchage).

http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-1163-Solar-Maintainer/dp/B004Q83TGO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416250584&sr=8-1&keywords=battery+tender+solar

We use a traditional (plug in) tender on my wife's car. A fairly common setup is to permanently connect the terminals to the battery and then run the leads somewhere more convenient, like out the grill or fender. It makes connecting/disconnecting a lot more convenient.

http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_text_z

u/HydRO-7 · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

Yes you can. To make it easier by negating the need to pull off the seat or panels to get to the battery, get yourself one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=sr_1_1/185-9216454-3055567?ie=UTF8&qid=1449857423&sr=8-1&keywords=battery+tender+pigtail

u/r4ptor · 3 pointsr/GS500

Battery tender junior.

Tuck a quick connector harness under the seat and you'll be golden.

u/aDDnTN · 3 pointsr/Triumph

when you buy a battery tender it will come with a lead for connecting to the battery, as well as a lead that has battery clamps/clips on it for temporary charging.

this "lead" has two wires on one end and a fitting like the USB adapter in /u/afeagle1021's post (except it is the MIRROR IMAGE of that fitting). The two wires will go on your battery terminals (aka posts) via loops installed on their ends that go around the battery terminal screws, where you bike's electrical system makes it's contact with the battery.

there is an indicator for polarity on at least one of the wires, make sure it is attached to the corresponding battery terminal. then you plug your bike into the tender overnight and plug the usb adapter in when you need to power your phone when you are riding.

you might need to get creative about how you run your usb cable if you want it secured and out of the way.

Link to lead sold without tender

Link to Battery Tender Jr.

u/Freecandyhere · 3 pointsr/AdviceAnimals

Buy one of these so next time you can restart it yourself and not need anyone to jump your car. I love mine.

u/predditr · 3 pointsr/chicago

Can't help you now, but buy one of these and keep it in your trunk and you won't have to worry about needing someone else to jump you in the future.

u/kipperzdog · 3 pointsr/boating

I can't answer all of your questions but I can say that yes the batteries should have been left on a trickle charger over the winter.
The symptoms all seem to just point to dead batteries, hopefully after charging for a couple days they'll regain their ability to hold a full charge.

As far as jump starting, I see no reason why you would not be able to, as long as your truck's battery can provide similar cranking amps.

For my merc 5.7, I use a dual purpose for starting the engine and deep cycle for boat electronics. I've got them wired with this guy: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00400IYTK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 that way both can charge when the engine is running and I don't have to worry about the boat electronics draining my starting battery.

u/MC_Preacher · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

Great idea!

This one is by the same company, longer and even [email protected]
http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-Female-Power-081-0069-8/dp/B0041CDPQO/ref=pd_luc_sbs_03_01_t_lh

I just ordered this and I ordered a 12' extension too (I have been using an extension cord)

Thanks!

u/bearsnchairs · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

I recommend getting leads with quick connect, so you can attach a battery tender if need be.

I also have a 12V/120V to USB adapter with USB cables under my seat so I always have a way to charge my phone on overnight trips.

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-8-Cigarette-Disconnect/dp/B0041CDPQO

and then the leads in the add on items.

u/obsessivecritic · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

Or you can get something like this and charge your phone. I tested to make sure I was getting 12v first with my ride

[Edit] its called a SAE plug

u/H2Oengineer · 3 pointsr/SleepApnea

I also have an AirSense 10 Autoset. The power "brick" provided with the unit is a conventional 120-240 VAC to DC converter. With the Ego Lawn Mower and Inverter you're converting electricity from DC to AC to DC. There will be substantial power-to-heat losses due to less-than-optimum efficiency of the power conversion.

Additionally, the AC output of the Ego Inverter (see manual, page 9) is limited to 150 Watts. At 120 Volts, this means that the current maximum it allows is 1.25 Amp. The maximum current demand that the AirSense 10 requires is 1.50 Amp. This is why the inverter's overheat is being triggered and it cuts power to your APAP; too much current is being demanded by the unit for the inverter's circuitry to handle.

I recommend following Resmed's Battery Guide using stand-alone, deep-cycle batteries.

I take my AirSense 10 camping and I recently purchased the following items, totaling to $205.56

  1. $68.99 12V 35AH Group U1 Deep Cycle Scooter Battery
  2. $11.36 Group U1 Snap-Top Battery Box
  3. $45.03 Battery Tender Plus 1.25 Amp Battery Charger
  4. $69.99 Rockpals DC Converter Compatible with S10 CPAP Series
  5. $10.19 Battery Tender Female Cigarette Adaptor for Quick Disconnect

    12V 35AH batteries ship factory-charged. If used with tube heating and humidification switched off, and maximum IPAP pressure of 16 cm H2O then a single battery will last you for two 8-hour nights. See Page 7 of Resmed's Battery Guide for details of power consumption if using any of the heat settings.

    I hope this helps. Feel free to ask me questions.
u/phillipjfried · 3 pointsr/AskMenOver30

Portable battery charger / air compressor. I was actually just thinking about this yesterday when I was inflating these giant plastic bowling pins for the end of a slip and slide. I've used this thing so many times its probably the coolest gift ever. I use it for camping to charge the phones, run the coffee pot, run a fan in the tent. I've used it to jumpstart my car countless times. Now that I have a one year old I use it to inflate all his toys and stroller.

This is the one.

Other than that its nice when someone gets me disc golf or fishing stuff as those are my two main hobbies.

u/pyramid_of_greatness · 3 pointsr/howto

A car battery or batteries wired up and connected to a power inverter is likely your best/cheapest bet.

You might make do with one of those 'emergency jump start' type boxes similar to this. The 5 hour time requirement might be longer than you're really going to get off a single battery, even at your load, so that'd be the interesting variable to solve.

Is there any possibility of running a vehicle nearby or just a small generator instead? A very tiny generator to keep your battery charged or as direct power would let you get this done (with added noise/exhaust) for sure. Quiet ones are pricey, though, as you can see.

u/danyheatleyallstar · 3 pointsr/Tools

Get something like this, hook it up from the main battery to the aux battery, then hook the aux battery to the inverter.

Remember to fuse or have a circuit breaker as close to the battery as possible, and run proper gauge wire.

u/lookitsaustin · 3 pointsr/vandwellers

You're most welcome! I bought the following:

4x100W Panels

Panel Mounting

Solar Panel Connectors

Tool Crimper

Assembly Tool

Panel Connectors

Power Information

CTEK Charger

CTEK SmartPass

200ah AMG Battery

Fuse Block

300W Pure Sine Wave Inverter

LED Strip

Dometic 35 Fridge


I bought all these items with research into my solar needs and following the advice from here in the vandwelling subreddit and also information I gathered from Amazon. I am probably doing a bit of overkill on my solar setup but I thankfully have the money to do it and don't want to mess with adding anything later.

I will have to do research myself on how to combine the four panels into the battery but that will be a few weeks away so I haven't done much in that area. I do plan to buy 10GA wire from Lowes and use the crimping tool and connectors to form my own wiring harness so it will be clean looking. \

EDIT: Adding info.

u/atetuna · 3 pointsr/CherokeeXJ

I'd leave it indoors, and preferably hook it up to a battery maintainer like a CTEK MUS 4.3.

u/gunslinger_006 · 3 pointsr/Harley

This, SAE (battery tender plug) to USB charger:

http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0158-Disconnect-Charger/dp/B00DJ5KEF4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398707257&sr=8-1&keywords=sae+to+usb

$10 and may just save your ass if your phone dies out on the road and you need help, or to look up directions, etc....

u/FishPumpkin · 2 pointsr/electricians

Assuming you mean that the cooling box uses 0.55 amps, this should be reasonably doable. Get a cable adapter like this one to connect the 12-volt outlets to the battery. Then plug the cooler and any other accessories into the splitter. I see no reason why plugging the cooler into this setup would damage it, so long as you make sure to connect the battery in the correct polarity (red to +, black to -). You can use the built-in USB port on your splitter, but beware that the output may be poorly regulated or undersized if it's from a cheap manufacturer. I would say that a power inverter isn't necessary, but if you get one be sure to only plug it in when you need it, rather than all the time. Inverters use a lot of quiescent power.

u/TheLadderCoins · 2 pointsr/BurningMan

Wow! Thank you you've answered all my questions about power needs.

Now all I need to figure out is details of actual wiring and construction.

Is it really as simple as this diagram would imply? Can I hook a fan like this one up to it directly or would I need an intermediary?

Would I be able to split it off into a car power thingy to charge phones and the like?

Thank you again.

*Forgot the fan. Also do you know if 90CFM is enough airflow for an air cooler? From the tutorials I've seen it should be, but more I'm thinking would be better, no?

u/ImSoStoked · 2 pointsr/gopro

Best solution I have off the top of my head: get yourself a car battery or some other 12v DC power source and use a cigarrette lighter adapter

Then you don't need to buy any new Hero 3 accessories. Or, if you were implying that you want your current backup batteries as the power source, you can probably make use of one of these. Never tried one, but if you can find one that's the right size for the charger you currently have you should be in business.

u/airsofter615 · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

I'd say battery. Few days ago my ninja was doing the same, ordered a battery tender and now it work perfectly. This is the tender I got, comes with connectors you can screw onto your battery so you can quick connect and charge overnight

u/[deleted] · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

Battery Tender.

Edit to include that the battery won't last very long (esp if it's the kind you manually add the acid to), and a battery tender is cheaper than a new battery.

u/annoyingone · 2 pointsr/preppers
u/ItsADanThing · 2 pointsr/shittykickstarters

A typical (small) car battery will have at least 60 Ah of capacity at 12V nominal, meaning the battery has about 720 Watt-hours of capacity. An existing phone charger which is significantly larger than the magic plastic box has 15 Ah of capacity at 3.7 volts, or about 56 watt-hours of capacity (7.8% of the car battery).

Now let’s talk about boost converters, they will need to boost the internal voltage to about 13 volts to charge the car battery. Something like this 5-amp converter would work. Not only does this take up space but it is expensive, higher currents cost even more and will require fans or large heatsinks to prevent them from burning up. This converter states about a 90% efficiency for a 60W output; This will give us an 7.0% charge of the car battery and will take about 50 minutes to do it.

Not to mention most cars require the ignition to be on or in accessory mode to power the cigarette outlets, the ignition may draw upwards of 20 watts while the accessory mode will likely draw 5-10 watts, significantly reducing your battery charge.

Realistically for the size they show it will probably have about half the capacity of the existing charger I linked. Giving us about 30 watt-hours ( 4.2% of car battery) between this and losses in wires and parasitic draw you could expect about 2-3% charge, insignificant if your battery is actually low or dead.

TL;DR : Best case you could get about 7% charge on your car battery after an hour. If you like the idea get something like this instead, or better yet get one of these and a separate phone charger.

Bonus: This picture.

edit: changed picture link for a single picture instead of the massive combination one on the kickstarter.

u/dfinf2 · 2 pointsr/flashlight

Depends on how big you dont mind it being. The anker ones are good 600 and 400 amps and fit in a glove box. I personally have a jump n carry in my truck JNC660. It's large but I've used it dozens of times on my truck and 18 wheeler my generator cars tractors etc. Nothing has failed on it and I highly recommend it if the size isn't a bother.

u/razrielle · 2 pointsr/gadgets

I have an actual jump pack that I keep in my truck. It works awesome, never had a problem with it and can jump up to 15 times before it gets iffy if it will jump another. I've also jumped a big tuck engine (some international not sure what engine) with it but wouldn't recommend this one if that's what your doing. I charge it once every 6 months to be sure but it's usually around 80% either way.

If you were to get the one I have, I would recommend covers for the clips just in case, but other than that, It's very very dependable. I also use it to hook my inverter up for my stereo I bring everywhere.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JFJLP6/ref=twister_B00D2HH1HI?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

The Weego seems decent, I'm just wary about not saying how many amps it provides and it may not work with a fully dead battery

u/konsol · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

First:

Battery Tender 081-0069-6 Ring Terminal Harness with Black Fused 2-Pin Quick Disconnect Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CO2myb008ZQVE

Then connect:

Battery Tender 081-0158 Black Quick Disconnect Plug with USB Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DJ5KEF4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RP2mybAQ3ZYY3

Then you just connect and route a standard USB to mini USB.

u/Err0rless · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

I recommend this if you're gonna leave it plugged in, easier than taking off the seat!

u/spike_africa · 2 pointsr/CarFix

That one is kind of weird. It looks like you need to install that whole thing and then pull the power cord out of the car and plug it into a wall? That is weird.

I would use this instead. https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0123-Junior-Charger/dp/B000CITK8S/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1481806706&sr=1-4&keywords=battery+tender

It's a smart charger, from a USA company made in USA, and when you don't need it you put it away. I have three of them. One for my classic car, and one for each of my motorcycles.

Add in this https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=S7TZQJ2BZZ3NWG4KS2KV

You connect this part to the battery terminals and leave them there. When you want to plug it in, you just connect the cords from the tender to this. Plug and play. I also use this on my motorcycles. My car I just use the standard connection clamps that come with the tender.

Cheap, USA made, and works. Read the reviews.

u/dickwhiskers69 · 2 pointsr/SVRiders

http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ

Here's a pic OP if you want to compare. Yeah, I doubt that's killing the juice to your bike.

u/bilged · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

A battery tender will lengthen the life of your battery as well. Install some permanent leads so its easy to hook up and leave it on the tender whenever its parked at home.

u/DooDooBrownz · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

get this and connect it to this. that way have your battery tender plug for when the bike is sitting and use the same connection for the charger and nothing is draining anything

u/Liger_Zero · 2 pointsr/Cartalk

If youve already had the battery changed and its still dying in that short amount of time it could be an alternator problem. A battery tender was going to be my next advice but if there is no electrical socket your SOL there.

My last bit of advice would be to have the alternator checked and possibly a system drain test. Some shops can identify if there is an electrical device that is draining the battery when the car is off. If all else fails just buy a portable jumper like this and just jump it when you get to the car everytime you need it.

u/windowpuncher · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

Sounds like you need a jumper!

u/r4v3n67 · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

you would connect a wire to the positive terminal of your battery using an electrical lug you can pick up from any autoparts store. Then that wire goes to a switch (need to make sure it is rated for the current.) and the other side of the switch goes to the wire that was on the battery before. Or you can buy a battery lockout switch and be done...here's one on amazon https://www.amazon.com/Post-Battery-Master-Disconnect-Switch/dp/B001N729FS

u/RaveDigger · 2 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

I went the lazy route on this one. I don't use my truck for months at a time and I was tired of coming back to a dead battery. It's a piece of shit so I wanted to "fix" the problem as cheaply as possible. Instead of tracking down the parasitic draw, I just installed a battery disconnect switch from Amazon for $10.

u/juez · 2 pointsr/HuntsvilleAlabama

Upvote. If you're not getting it fixed right away, this will ease some of your headaches. I prefer this style, but to each their own. http://www.amazon.com/Post-Battery-Master-Disconnect-Switch/dp/B001N729FS

u/geo38 · 2 pointsr/vandwellers

> but at that rate I'm better off charging my batteries with my diesel's alternator

Yep. I frequently ask people on this sub why they think solar is so important when they're driving around in something that generates electricity already. Solar is expensive. It doesn't work in Seattle except for three weeks in August. Unless you're in the desert southwest, you need to have sufficient battery capacity for multiple days without sun which means you need an even bigger solar panel array to recharge that battery pack on the 2 sunny days during a two week period of overcast and showers.

Unless the van is parked somewhere for days and days without moving, just charge the house battery from the alternator. Even if it's parked on a sunny day, there's a huge incentive to park it in the shade to prevent the interior temps from killing anyone inside.

Using the alternator is easy. The absolute brute force, quick-n-dirty, cheap way is to run a #2 or #4 gauge wire from the positive terminal of your your van's battery to the positive terminal of your house battery through a simple switch and a high capacity (100A) fuse.

Under $10 crude switch from any auto parts store: https://www.amazon.com/Post-Battery-Master-Disconnect-Switch/dp/B001N729FS/ You use this to 'disconnect' the wire between the batteries when you park. This prevents that 60W fan you're running 24/7 from running down your starter battery. Get a better switch as your budget allows.

Better is an 'isolation relay' - there are two basic kinds. The inexpensive kind https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005JCX8OY/ requires that you also find a 12v power source that goes active when your ignition is turned on. This powers the relay to connect your house battery to the alternator/starting battery. It's not a big deal, but possibly a small hassle. Any Napa, Reibes, Pep-Boys, Autozone, etc auto parts place will have one.

Or, an automatic type that senses when the voltage on your starter battery rises due to the alternator and then automatically connects your house battery so it gets charged, too. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00400IYTK/ You take the 12v cable from your van battery to one terminal. The 12V from your house battery to the 2nd terminal. And, the last terminal goes to ground.

BTW, I wasn't trying to 'burn you' but rather put some realism into your needs. At least you didn't mention electric heater or electric air conditioning like some folks do. For heating or cooking, gas/propane is the practical way to go. (There are some great, BUT EXPENSIVE, diesel heaters that can tap into your van's fuel system).

For air conditioning, there isn't any van-sized alternative other than a gas powered generator or an electrical outlet near the van.

Good choice on the fridge. And, you're right - it's not a 'now' sort of requirement.

Those battery powered LED things last forever. If you haven't bought any yet, try to get ones with diffusers - intentionally stay away from the brightest ones you can find. The issue is that in the small confines of a van, they just sear burn marks in your retinas. 'dimmer is better' I have these - multi brightness, magnetic stick on to my van's metal interior: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H731UNS/

I got the non-rechargeable ones but use Amazon Basics Eneloop- equivalent rechargeable AAA batteries: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-AAA-Rechargeable-Batteries-12-Pack/dp/B007B9NXAC/ and a USB recharger for them sort of like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PZ6V99U/

I have one of these. You do not want this 2 ft from your eyes in a van: https://www.amazon.com/BUYGO-11-LED-Outdoor-Lantern-Camping/

u/yourenotmydad · 2 pointsr/projectcar

Nice score, looks like it has a lot of potential and is near done. If i may add a suggestion, toss a cover on the positive terminal and make sure it is well insulated all the way to the starter/alternator so it doesn't short out. Maybe toss a quick disconnect terminal on the negative side so you can disconnect it if you leave for awhile, or in a hurry if something fishy is going on with your electrical system, never know when those gremlins can attack.

u/LittleHelperRobot · 2 pointsr/Autos

Non-mobile: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001N729FS/ref=pd_aw_sim_auto_2?refRID=1GHJA1JCE9CTZC5R36SK

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

u/no-mad · 2 pointsr/RVLiving

Most auto parts has a + battery terminal replacement that has a on/off switch.. Also doubles as engine kill switch. Cant start it unless someone knows to turn the knob.

u/Burningrambo · 2 pointsr/Autos

I feel like that type of switch won't hold up well. I've seen them used, not on cars, but the clamp force between them needs to be tightened. Still, it should work as intended. Might arc a bit connecting it, but what doesn't.

This is the switch I've seen used before many times.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001N729FS/ref=pd_aw_sim_auto_2?refRID=1GHJA1JCE9CTZC5R36SK

u/dalchemy · 2 pointsr/CarAV

This fits the "breaker or switch" suggestion perfectly and is exactly what its for, albeit a bit more expensive than a manual switch ;P

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00400IYTK/

u/snommisnats · 2 pointsr/vandwellers

Alternators give out anywhere from 60-130 Amps, depending on what model came with your van. A single 100W solar panel, laid out flat, is going to produce in the neighborhood of 80W for about 5 hours on a good sunny day, or roughly 400W per day. Even the smallest available alternator will produce twice that much energy in an hour of driving per day.

If you are going to charge your "house" battery off of your alternator, be sure you get a battery isolator circuit that will prevent your house electronics from draining your starter battery. Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Smart-Dual-Battery-140A-Isolator/dp/B00400IYTK

u/mfloreshostel · 2 pointsr/vandwellers

Thanks for the reply. I was able to get a look at the batteries today to check the connections and noticed one seems to have been leaking. I removed it and so far the system works fine on the remaining battery.

So I'm thinking it developed a crack OR the leak is due to overcharging. How can I figure this out?

Maybe you can help me answer this question: If my batteries were topped off and then I drove for 10 hours, would my battery isolator be overcharging the batteries? And one of them finally quit?

This is the smart isolator I'm using-

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00400IYTK/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

u/coolkid1717 · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

Why didn't you just buy this and hook it up to your trickle charger. Seems much simpler.

u/peanutbuttersmack · 2 pointsr/Ducati
u/ZombieHoratioAlger · 2 pointsr/scooters

On the Scarabeo, I use a 12v charging port that connects to the Battery Tender cable. It's 100% non-invasive and removable.

Edit: It's this, connected to a standard charging cable that came with the Tender.

u/egohavoc · 2 pointsr/okeechobeemusicfest

Get a cheap hanging shoe organizer and hang it from your easy up, you can store your snacks and stuff in it!

If you have the funds get a utility battery that can jump a car, I use one to keep 10+ phones topped up for the majority of the weekend. This is a newer model of the one I have.

Firefly lights a great way to illuminate the camp at night and one use of the batteries should last all weekend as long as you turn them off during the day.

Easy ups are usually 40-50 bucks at Dick’s sporting goods. Although my one regret is getting one with a larger footprint than the covered area (legs are angled outward). The ones that have the same covered area as the foot print (legs go straight up and down) are much better, especially when combining a few easy ups together!

All I got for now

u/screamingnaked · 2 pointsr/camping

Would something like this work? Assuming a CPAP takes a standard 120V plug? Schumacher XP2260 1200 Peak Amp Instant Portable Power Source and Jump Starter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004EIAADG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_35y4ybJJXTDM2

u/jmccomas10 · 2 pointsr/camping

Schumacher XP2260 1200 Peak Amp Instant Portable Power Source https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004EIAADG/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_61E4wb9MHH5NH I have one for when I travel. Will run my Lenovo y50 for a long time

u/vbullinger · 2 pointsr/HumansBeingBros

People's lack of preparedness astonishes me.

At all times, you need these in your car:

Jumper cables

Tow rope

Gas can

Something to break your window and something to cut your seatbelt, like this: https://www.amazon.com/Towallmark-Seatbelt-Cutter-Breaker-Emergency/dp/B002AMAXNA

Flashlight

Tire gauge

In cold weather areas, you also need:

Very warm jacket, gloves, hat

Snow shovel

There's more, for sure. That's off the top of my head. I drive an electric car and still have jumper cables for all the idiots that don't. I even have a car battery charger for other people: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004EIAADG/ref=s9_acsd_zgift_hd_bw_bLXhjn_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-8&pf_rd_r=HBMZ3ASAYDSAZ2X5FEQ9&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=a6b3dd3a-5e3d-5661-9134-0d3384e34ec6&pf_rd_i=318336011

EDIT: and a spare tire. Ugh. I have run flats.

EDIT #2: and an ice scraper, obviously.

u/nondescriptzombie · 2 pointsr/gaming
u/jessebased · 2 pointsr/Coachella

I'm getting this car jumper/power source that should last me the whole 4 days
Schumacher XP2260 1200 Peak Amp Instant Portable Power Source https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004EIAADG/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_vfFfvb0Y0QFHZ
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004EIAADG/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_vfFfvb0Y0QFHZ


And plug my $40 computer speakers that I use for backyard parties all the time. And use very little power
Logitech Z313 Speaker System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002HWRZ2K/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_HhFfvb1N5N127
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002HWRZ2K/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_HhFfvb1N5N127

u/HybridCamRev · 2 pointsr/videography

The least expensive useful solar power generator is probably this [$228.99 128 wH Monerator Gusto 10 Eco Kit with a 10W solar panel ] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HUMZV6Y/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00HUMZV6Y&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20).

You can plug it in and recharge it before you take it out into the field.

The batteries are li-ion, so it's not a huge lead acid brick.

I have a couple of lead acid power packs ([this one] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004EIAADG/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B004EIAADG&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) and [this one] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00005RHQQ/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00005RHQQ&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20)), but they are so heavy I don't take them anywhere.

It would be a challenge to build anything less expensive than this.

Hope this is helpful and best of the holidays!

u/Cannabisitis · 2 pointsr/Fixxit

Honestly it just sounds like you just have a dead battery. Pick up one of these and plug your battery into it overnight. If it doesn't hold its charge, take it to an auto parts store for testing. If it tests bad, replace it.

u/tfellad · 2 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

My maintainer NOCO Genius G750

Not cheap

u/gsasquatch · 2 pointsr/cars
u/germanbini · 2 pointsr/homeless

Hey I'm not the OP, for more info please go to the original post to congratulate them. :)



Personally I DO live in a van, it's a 1992 Chevy G20 Gladiator. I have a memory foam mattress on top of a wooden platform, totes and cardboard boxes for storage (food, clothing, etc.) underneath. having the mattress off the floor gives space for storage, and also insulates the mattress from the heat or cold of the ground.

For privacy I have tinted windows, non-adhesive window film, collapsible foil sunshade for the front window, and black bug screen mesh like this for the side windows.

For water I use sturdy Arizona tea jugs. I have a basic Coleman camping toilet for nighttime and emergency uses - some people simply use pee bottles or five gallon buckets.

If it's cold at night I have a [12V electric blanket](https://www.walmart.com/ip/TREKSAFE-12-Volt-Heated-Travel-Blanket-White/54609929] and/or a 12V "car seat" warmer that I put under the mattress. I also have a propane Little Buddy heater which I have not yet used.

My main luxury item is an Alpicool C15 refrigerator powered by two 35AH "house batteries" (in parallel) which are charged using a Battery Doctor isolator. The Battery Doctor is run by my alternator when I drive-it only starts charging the house batteries after my van battery is full. The fridge uses 5.8AH per day. I used a cooler for a year, but the drawbacks are constantly buying or procuring ice (like from soda fountains), and food spoilage from it getting waterlogged, plus having to drain it frequently.

For hot meals, I use a 12 volt "lunchbox cooker" (works similar to a crock pot) which is powered in my cigarette lighter while I drive (or I can run it with the house batteries through a 12v splitter - the Alpicool is plugged into the other side. I also have a propane camping stove which I have never used.

I have a USB mini fan to run at night, or I can run my small regular fan through the 300W power inventor where I can also charge my laptop and/or phone (I usually charge the phone in the cigarette lighter).

I don't make any money if you buy from any of these links, but I only used them for illustrative purposes - I encourage you to shop around on Craigslist, eBay, Amazon, Walmart, check yard sales, etc. find the best priced similar item that works best for you. You don't have to get everything all at once - I didn't. But if you can get a basic minivan or van (seats removed), a mattress (or sleeping bag even) on a frame, and some jugs of water, it's a start.

u/KaptainH · 2 pointsr/VEDC

All you need is a second battery and this:
https://www.amazon.com/WirthCo-20092-Battery-Doctor-Isolator/dp/B0058SGDFK

I run a dual battery system and power my accessories off my second battery. Add a solar charger too if you want if you're running like a 12v fridge.

Use it for camping / "overlanding"

u/theoryface · 2 pointsr/vandwellers

Yeah, I thought anyone interested in the thread would be! But as soon as I posted the original version with amazon links, it was auto-deleted. Weird.

Oh well, here are my products:

Solar panel: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017OMTAV6/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&coliid=I2R53I6ASRE7TH&psc=1

Charge controller: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JMLPP12/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&coliid=IMF9F8IHLJ6EN&psc=1

House battery: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/SSBQ/3478PLT/03321.oap?year=1967&make=Ford&model=Mustang&vi=1332302&ck=Search_03321_1332302_-1&pt=03321&ppt=C0005

Battery isolator: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058SGDFK/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&coliid=I2UYT4LFVI14AN

Van fan: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002OWAIB8/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&coliid=I1Q9S1UN7Z94H7&psc=1

LED lights: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007JF2A6G/ref=od_aui_detailpages02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Fuse block: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000K2MBPA/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&coliid=IK1ERB55YT6QX&psc=1

Busbar: https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-MiniBus-Grounding-Terminal/dp/B0058GA4IO/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1467345205&sr=8-11&keywords=6+terminal+bus

Main line fuses (inline): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WZHE3A4/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&coliid=ICS8GYAQNUJV1&psc=1

u/Y_BOT · 2 pointsr/vandwellers

>Hmm, it seems as though if I'm going to need a toggle switch for the solenoid I might as well save myself the money and the hassle and just get one of those large manual isolator switches. Unless you disagree.

they both do the same thing, but i would go with a solenoid personally. however, there's another option that i noticed we haven't talked about, and that is an automatic isolator. something like this : https://www.amazon.com/WirthCo-20092-Battery-Doctor-Isolator/dp/B0058SGDFK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486427671&sr=8-1&keywords=automatic+battery+isolator

(take note of the wiring diagram picture on that amazon listing, it may help you).
an automatic isolator like that will automatically charge your deep cycles once the starting battery is charged up, and prevent the deep cycles from discharging your deep cycles. unlike with a solenoid or manual isolator switch, there is no chance of you forgetting to disconnect the deep cycles batteries and accidentally draining your starting battery. i would highly recommend going with something like this - it is simpler to wire up AND will be more user-friendly once installed.

>If I do in fact skip the solenoid I would imagine I would place the isolator switch on the positive wire from the deep cycle battery to the car starting battery.

Correct

>If I keep everything wired as you laid out in the diagram above, would I be able to charge my deep cycle batteries without draining my car battery AND without actually starting my car? Ehh now that I write that out it doesn't make any sense. fuck

yea the car has to be running, the alternator is what actually does the charging and its not going to put out and power unless the engine is running.

u/greatfriend22 · 2 pointsr/hondafit

Great setup.

How tall are you? I’m planning to do this as well.

Try a Battery isolator
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058SGDFK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hHk0CbCAPHH9Z

With it, you can skip solar and still have electricity for your car.

u/brutimus · 2 pointsr/vandwellers

I survived a year with a 100ah house battery hooked up to one of these to connect it to the alternator after the starting battery had been topped off. My loads were a strip of led lights going the perimeter of the van, a roof van and an led strip for cooking. On occasion I'd charge a phone or something from the house battery, but usually it'd get plugged in while I was driving.

Just recently I installed solar panels and the whole nine yards so I can run a little 50L fridge.

u/aboyhasn0name · 2 pointsr/vandwellers

How much driving vs. staying in one place do you plan to do? If you're on the road a lot, it might work to just use a battery isolator so you can charge from the alternator. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0058SGDFK/

u/linuxhiker · 2 pointsr/skoolies

I got this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058SGDFK/


I liked it because it is reversible in case I stupidly drain my starter batteries, I can use the AGM to charge them.

u/Wellas · 2 pointsr/DIY

Yes, this is the isolator I bought. So, I think I'm doing it right, but not sure.

edit: Also checked the amps and my van has a 105-145 amp alternator. Not sure which one, but positive it's one of the two, and that works with 150amps so I guess I'm all good.

u/CyFus · 2 pointsr/battlewagon
u/taelor · 2 pointsr/vandwellers

I'm doing exactly this, and I've decided on these two devices...

CTEK D250S

This can server as your alternator to Battery bank charger, as well as your MPPT controller for Solar, its basically a two in one product for the isolator and solar charge controller. /u/brutimus also uses this, and when I asked them the other day, they said they liked it and its working well.

AIMS 1000W Inverter-Charger

This inverter is a beast. It works as a AC to DC 3-stage smart charger, 1000W inverter, AC-passthrough (so that when you are hooked up to AC, you can just use it like normal without draining battery), and has lots of other nice features. There is one feature where if you are out away from an AC hookup and have a generator, once your batteries are drained, it can send a signal to the generator to turn on, keeping your power going, but only after your batteries have been depleted.

u/Haynessey · 2 pointsr/Tools

I really like CTEK chargers. We have a few of these for cars and boats in storage: https://www.amazon.com/CTEK-56-864-Automatic-Battery-Charger/dp/B006G14FK8

u/TX50BMG · 2 pointsr/Porsche

I had a 335i that was subject to the Takata recall and I had to park it until the replacement airbag arrived (literally, NO miles allowed). That translated into almost 6 months of the car not moving, so I was looking for a battery maintainer to use while it sat.

BMW has a similar offering to the Charge-O-Mat, with similar pricing, but both are made by CTEK. I just went and bought the CTEK MUS 4.3 for quite a bit less and it performed flawlessly. I now use it to maintain the battery on my Cayman in between drives.

At this point I have over 18 months of daily use on it and nary a hiccup. I even accidentally hooked up the terminals backwards a couple of weeks ago and it simply threw an error. I corrected my mistake and it started charging as normal.

It looks like Amazon has it on sale:

https://www.amazon.com/CTEK-56-864-Automatic-Battery-Charger/dp/B006G14FK8

u/davidsson · 2 pointsr/motocamping

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0158-Disconnect-Charger/dp/B00DJ5KEF4?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0
is a great way to charge electronics. For camping entertainment or just otherwise. Also look for camp sites with good hiking or hotsprings nearby. Nothing is better than soaking after a full days ride.

u/tokyohoon · 2 pointsr/Harley

You sure can!

Just remember to disconnect it when not in use - even with no device attached, they draw a small amount of current.

u/yasuro · 2 pointsr/Harley

2 things come to mind.

  1. Roadside assistance that covers motorcycles.

  2. Battery Tender 081-0158 Black Quick Disconnect Plug with USB Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DJ5KEF4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XIP7xbEGJQ6M6
u/BearLindsay · 2 pointsr/Harley

K) I also need a phone mount and how the F do you get a charger or "cigarette lighter" to keep the phone charged for the Waze.

Battery Tender 12 Volt Junior Automatic Battery Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CITK8S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aJygDb3YPNVR9

Battery Tender 081-0158 Quick Disconnect Plug with USB Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DJ5KEF4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PHygDbY6Z9FSG

That gives you a charger and a battery tender.


I have this mounted to the dash extender on my Dyna:
SCOSCHE MAGDMB MagicMount https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I608BJ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lKygDb5V5QAWE
It's been rock solid for years (the tank is higher than the phone so wind doesn't catch it) and it's not mounted to the handlebars where it can distract me or vibrate loose. My post history has pictures but I've never seen a Sportster with a tank mounted dash so you'd have to stick it on the paint.

And this in the windshield of my truck too:
SCOSCHE MAGHDGPS MagicMount https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q69U8YM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aLygDb46TW35Y


For etiquette, I keep just about everything to a quick wave or beep-beep at most. If I happen to see some others, I usually just fall in line with them as far as our paths are the same. I ride in the back of the group and keep about the same amount of space the rest of the group has. If they ride side to side, I get as close as I feel comfortable (and that isn't side by side lol). If they're staggered, I stay staggered too. Stop lights are different. Pull right up next to them and give them a quick head nod or maybe a compliment lol

u/ztherion · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

To hold the phone, get a RAM mount.

To charge the phone, you need this adapter and an SAE cable running from your battery (The cable with the round terminals in this kit).

I've seen some touring bikes with cup holders but a Camelbak/water bladder would probably be easier to use while riding.

u/jhole · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

Wow, I hadn't considered using the bike to charge my phone. Just found that there's a usb adapter that connects directly to the Battery Tender leads.

u/Iemaj · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

You can chuck this on the wiring and then a USB to mini USB for your phone. Think this is what you want

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0158-Disconnect-Charger/dp/B00DJ5KEF4

u/solitudechirs · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

Get something that has a cover for the plug when you're not using it. Like this or this. Also, let me know if you figure out a way to get actual USB-C charging speeds.

u/jedielfninja · 2 pointsr/vandwellers

Nah op, just buy a deep cycle battery and isolator relay to charge it off your engine. Then you can silently charge things at night etc.

Also buy
12V Plug Socket with Eyelet Terminal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G8WLW2Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wa9EybWJA9XPG

And any usb cigarette adapter for charging your devices off the battery.

As it sounds like you will be in cold weather here is a bonus. It seems pricey but is so effective. Temperature settings and everything.

DC12V Electric VACUUM INSULATED kettle boil cup https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H4OYITE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Ac9EybYMT5M1F

u/PNWskye · 2 pointsr/SolarDIY

I have a charge controller, but the door is directly attached to the battery terminals. As for the camera, I used the advice from this group and bought a car charger with USB ports plugged into this:

https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GC018-Adapter-Socket-Terminal/dp/B00G8WLW2Y

I had to strip the wires and crimp different terminals on them since they didn’t fit on the battery bolt.

u/dragorn-kismet · 2 pointsr/ToyotaTacoma

You could also get a 12v socket - http://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GC018-Socket-Eyelet-Terminal/dp/B00G8WLW2Y/ for instance - tap it off your existing 12v socket fuse with an add-a-fuse - http://www.amazon.com/Pico-0956PT-Blade--Circuit-Holder/dp/B001QRSBW0/ - and hide it all in the dash somewhere. That way you have no permanent mods.

u/Freonr2 · 2 pointsr/bonnaroo

I built this setup recently:
https://old.reddit.com/r/bonnaroo/comments/bfy56y/mini_solar_rig/

  1. $80: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GRN8Q9V

  2. $139: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FNQH9R1

  3. $99: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G7SCMVI

  4. $7: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G8WLW2Y

  5. $11: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0746BM8ZR

  6. $32: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WITWKNG

    A few other odds and ends brings it close to $400 total.

    The charger controller is overkill for the one panel, and you don't need a lithium battery necessarily, but you also have to be careful what lead acid you get as most are not built for deep cycling. You can probably get a much larger capacity solar or marine deep cycle lead acid for what I paid.
u/xj2379 · 2 pointsr/motorcycles
u/onastyinc · 2 pointsr/GalaxyS7

These are handy for camping.

http://www.amazon.com/PowerStation-PSX-3-Jumpstarter-Compressor-Outlet/dp/B00GNG9N30

They also have them at Costco.

It has a USB port, a light, can jump start a car, and a 18AH battery. That should be able to charge a phone quite a few times.



u/impressive_specimen · 2 pointsr/AdviceAnimals

They've made some progress on these things lately. My step dad has this bad boy, which will charge a car battery with attached cables as well as a usb port for a phone, it will also inflate a tire, and has a decent flashlight built in.

u/nonny39 · 2 pointsr/VEDC

I bought the older model of this, http://amzn.com/B00GNG9N30, at Costco like 3-4 years ago. It's been great. Used it to jump my Xterra in the cold several times. My dad used it to jump their motor home several times. I've only used the air pump for bike tires but it works great for that. It's big and clunky but has worked great. I recently lost the charging cable so I fear it's time is limited....

u/Tangent_ · 2 pointsr/BMW

The bimmersoftware.com cable you have seems to be the only sure thing; it's the one I used. I used this 15amp charger with no problem when flashing my Z4 so your 25 amp one shouldn't have any problem. The OTG cables were these Cable Matters ones.

I totally understand how you feel; I freaked the hell out when the flash failed on mine and the car wouldn't start.

u/BigSlipperySlide · 2 pointsr/IAmA

Hey so my setup is a bit cheaper than the one below, but same concept:

I have an inverter with alligator clips on it that has at least 300 watts (you can gather things you think you would use and add up the watts to see your needs):
https://www.amazon.com/POTEK-Inverter-Adapter-Charging-Smartphone/dp/B01FEUD9OO/ref=sr_1_9?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1504464365&sr=1-9&refinements=p_72%3A1248861011


Then I have a marine deep cycle battery (I actually have two because I use them for other stuff also):
I can't find the exact one, but it is just Deep Cycle marine battery 12 volts and about 100 amp hours rated, they are about $75-100 at Costco or Walmart.

If you search for 24DC or the larger 27DC Marine battery you will find them.


Then of course you need a charger, I love this one, but there are others:
https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-BC15BD-Battery-Charger/dp/B00KNMKRU8/ref=pd_bxgy_263_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00KNMKRU8&pd_rd_r=KVPBC0ZVG9ZQGWAPD6HS&pd_rd_w=4Xk7X&pd_rd_wg=SRKI5&psc=1&refRID=KVPBC0ZVG9ZQGWAPD6HS


You just clamp on the inverter and you are all set, instant power supply :)


Edit: you could also get one of these and use your car charger with it, it might extend the life of the big deep cycle battery since you don't have to run the inverter

u/CaneyJ · 2 pointsr/vandwellers

The battery size and solar size is fine.

Save a ton of cash and power using my fridge design linked here:

https://www.reddit.com/r/vandwellers/comments/4efrgd/creating_an_effective_and_ultraefficient/

I've measured it to use about 12-15 AH per day or 0.5-0.63A per hour. Simply change the digital thermostat setting to below freezing to turn it back into a freezer.

Easily replaced by solar though it depends where you are. Even in winter you should at least get around 1A per hour from a 200w panel during daylight hours.

A 10A or 20A version of this EPSOLAR MPPT controller is a good solid choice.

https://www.amazon.com/EPEVER-Charge-Controller-Tracer-Display/dp/B01G41315O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1481751447&sr=8-3&keywords=1210A&th=1

Use one of these to link your domestic battery to the engine:

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Smart-Isolator-KeyLine-Chargers/dp/B00WTAFR84/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481751516&sr=8-1&keywords=vsr

u/Azsu · 2 pointsr/vandwellers

Have you checked out the smart battery isolators? I was looking at 12V 140 Amp Dual Battery Smart Isolator by KeyLine - VSR - Voltage Sensitive Relay Specially Designed for ATV, UTV, Boats, RV's, Campers 5th Wheels Off Road Vehicles Rhino Polaris Artic Cat ETC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WTAFR84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dL5RCb7Y6P1G0

u/chicagoose3 · 1 pointr/motorcycles

Sorry about the delay. I don't bring much non-obvious stuff, but here are some thoughts that I think are helpful.

  1. Have zip-ties and have them handy. You can fix so much stuff in a pinch with a zip tie, from busted fairings to securing a paper towel/rag around a fork if your seal leaks to any number of other things. Of course all of this is useless if the zip ties are buried deep in your bags. I keep a few in the Camelbak I ride with for easy access.

  2. If you're mechanically inclined at all, bring a handful of your most used tools. Most bikes have 3 or 4 typical sizes for allen keys, sockets, and screw drivers. You don't need much (you aren't going to rebuild anything on the side of the road) but quickly tightening a loose fastener on the go beats waiting until you get to town or having to ask a shop to tighten a bolt for you. Like the zip-ties, these should be your quickest/easiest access things.

  3. Obviously you'll be carrying a phone, but if you're also running a helmet comm system I cannot recommend a USB battery tender enough (even just for a phone it's great). You can charge right off your bike battery if you need some juice in a pinch. It's like $10 and installs in under 10 minutes.

  4. Pack light on clothes and supplies, especially if you aren't camping. You don't need much and you aren't impressing anyone under your helmet and jacket anyway. A lot of AirBNBs and some campgrounds have laundry so you can totally do it on the road if you're gone long enough. The less you have to pack up and strap down each morning, the better.

  5. Stay hydrated. I usually drink a bottle of water or, better yet, fill my Camelbak to drink as I head down the road at each gas stop. You don't usually realize you're dehydrated until you're already there and it's easy to make mistakes at that point.

  6. The most important tip is to be open to changing plans on the fly. Weather, bike issues and recommendations from strangers on the road can really alter your plans but that's what makes it the most fun. I try to set a goal each night for where I want to end up the next day, but having a hand-and-fast rule like "I HAVE to be at this point 2.5 days from now" can really frustrate you if conditions aren't perfect. These trips are nothing if not incredible lessons in adaptability and improvisation.

    If you've got more questions about a specific pack list or anything else, feel free to ask.
u/flaming_m0e · 1 pointr/FZ09

Battery Tender 081-0158 Black Quick Disconnect Plug with USB Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DJ5KEF4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vtUyzb2C91HVE

u/Nevoron · 1 pointr/motorcycles

So you have the USB charger in the back and just run a USB cable to the front? I figured I'd just have this thing near the front because I can close it where a USB cable would be exposed to weather.

u/sparksterz · 1 pointr/motorcycles

So my setup is similar to /u/RocketGrouch but a bit more rudimentary. The over view is Ram mount, usb cable, battery tender pigtail to usb connector.

Ram mount parts I used: handlebar mount, connector bracket, phone holder.

I already had a battery tender setup, so figured using this was a no brain-er.

Then I used these cloth braided cables. Didn't know how much length I'd need, but the 6.5 feet was perfect for my use. Allowed me to tuck it around my tank, under my speedo housing shroud and discretely to the handle bars without slack that would risk getting caught.

Certainly not the prettiest solution out there, but I only use this set-up sparingly and store it in my rear bag.

u/xaronax · 1 pointr/motorcycles

I'm a big fan of the Battery Tender Jr. combo with the USB adapter. Let me get some links.

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0158-Disconnect-Charger/dp/B00DJ5KEF4/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498164399&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=battery+tender+jr+usb

You can see the Tender itself in the recommended stuff at the bottom. I just pop the USB off when I park in the garage, and connect the Tender to the same plug. Hits a lot of birds with 1 stone.

u/TheGoldTooth · 1 pointr/motorcycles

I use this with an extension cable running to the rear storage compartment to charge my phone: https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0158-Disconnect-Smartphone/dp/B00DJ5KEF4.

u/thesnizzles · 1 pointr/motorcycles

I have a Ram Mount gas tank mount for mounting and then one of these with a USB cable wired to it. Pair that with a 128GB SD card and you have 8 solid hours of dash cam footage with a GoPro

u/Rtem8 · 1 pointr/motocamping

Do not cut into or splice off of your wire harness. Get a battery tender pigtail that connects directly to your battery (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_-1cAzb8YDMYBC). Then use a 'Battery Tender SAE to USB adapter to plug a USB cable into (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DJ5KEF4/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_r3cAzbN5DASR2). This was you can charge you bike when parked for a while and have the freedom to run the USB cable to your bars for your ram mount or into your bags to charge extra gear.

u/Steev182 · 1 pointr/motorcycles

I have one of these that I could get this fella to connect to. Should be good enough plus it's easy to get the bike's battery charged up if you don't ride for a few weeks.

u/johnny2k · 1 pointr/Fixxit

SAE connector. I use it to charge my bike or to charge my external battery so I can then charge my other, more expensive, devices.

http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0158-Disconnect-Charger/dp/B00DJ5KEF4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421879389&sr=8-1&keywords=sae+usb

u/Zaresada · 1 pointr/motorcycles

I added one of these to my bike.

I then plug in one of these to charge my phone.

I much prefer the modular setup as I can plug in other accessories to the same port, such as my tire inflator. However one of the direct to battery usb chargers may be cheaper.

u/aveeight · 1 pointr/Triumph

Other people mentioned the Battery Tender adapter, which is great.

This guy did a great review on some Bonneville upgrades, and the charger set up he did is excellent.

https://ericwais.wordpress.com/2015/06/20/day-21/

I am pretty sure this would mount on a ST just the same. I use this on a 60 mile round trip commute and its great. Good visibility and it keeps everything charged.

Basically get these:

Arkon Case

Tender Adapter

Battery Tender Harness

And a small piece of velco with glue on it to hold the adapter/cord to your bike when not in use.

Do you really commute 200 miles a day? Or is that just a fun trip you have planned?

u/cogitoergosam · 1 pointr/ChicagoMotorcycles

Yeah, everyone who wants to maintain their battery (especially for storage and through cold weather) should put it on a battery tender. $40 will save you a new battery and many headaches.

Plus, you can get a usb adapter for the quick-disconenct that comes off your battery, or a voltage meter to check your battery status.

u/Butterbuddha · 1 pointr/Harley

To add to the Garmin comments, I have decided to switch to a gps instead of my phone simply because I have many times found myself in an area of poor cell reception-and no cell means no GPS. This is especially irritating when I have GPS'd my way TO that spot, and now can't hit the cell tower to put in a new destination.

Anyways after much consternation I finally bought the super expensive Zumo 595LM. In this day and age it REALLY hurt my feelings to drop that kind of cash on a gps when Google Maps works so great AND has live traffic. But anyways, its hard wired to the bike and has a bonus USB plug all its own. So now I can run the GPS all day long AND leave my phone plugged in through the Garmin cord so I can run Waze. Good stuff.

A much cheaper solution (and what I have been doing up until then) is to drop 10 bucks on Amazon for a trickler charger to USB plug, THIS ONE. Pro tip, I buy a usb cord (or lightning cord for a fruit phone) and electrical tape it to this plug so the connection is nice and tight. In the past I've had the cord jiggle which was really irritating having my phone wake up and go to sleep, wake up and go to sleep. Also it eventually burned out my Amazon plug. So get a nice charging cord and dedicate it to the bike. Never a problem since. Just toss that cord/plug combo in your saddlebag with your RAM mount when not in use.

u/doitskippy · 1 pointr/motocamping

Yeah that's the idea, just a little hard flat thing that you can turn into a cooking/eating surface using what you'll have. The campsites may or may not have amenities provided. I almost always camp at places that have potable water, a picnic table with benches, a critter-proof food locker, and a fire ring in each site. They take a little bit of the isolation and manliness out of the experience, but I'm usually camping with a couple girls in the group and girls seem to appreciate having toilets and showers even when they're off in the woods somewhere. For a first trip you'll find things like not having to pack clean water really handy, so if that's an option I'd go for it.

Another thing you might find really handy is [this little charger] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DJ5KEF4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) that plugs right in to a battery tender plug. If you don't already have a battery tender plug for keeping your battery charged when you aren't riding for a bit, I recommend picking up one of those too. This thing will let you charge your phone or camera. A phone doesn't suck up a ton of juice, but since you may not have a jump handy I'd just idle the bike while charging to make sure you don't end up with a flat battery.

Take loads of pictures, man! Let us know how you liked the experience. Best of luck.

u/coppermouse69 · 1 pointr/motocamping

Old thread but thought I'd share in case someone finds this. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DJ5KEF4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487481829&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=battery+tender+usb&dpPl=1&dpID=31-cnGD8--L&ref=plSrch
This is what I use to charge my phone. Plugs into your battery tender port. It generates 1amp I believe but it's enough to keep the phone charged while using it for GPS. Cheap, light, works.
EDiT: probably not useful for all the stuff you want to charge.

u/swiftcock · 1 pointr/vandwellers

I must apologise I didn't think the whole cigarette lighter battery charger thing through, as it turns out this will just blow your cigarette lighter fuse, since it may be possible that the deep cycle battery would draw to much current and since cars don't limit the current that goes through your cigLight socket ( as I originally thought). You can still charge your battery through your cigarette lighter but you will have to use this thing instead and maybe this connected to the battery to be able to charge it.


So I really don't have any links to all this since this is how we used to do it with our family outings (minus the charging the battery through the cig lighter port). At this point I'm maybe confusing you and would recommend to buy Yeti Goal Zero, since I don't feel comfortable giving advice on something that I haven't personaly tried, (charge the battery through the cig lighter thingy).

u/orion19k · 1 pointr/astrophotography

Battery, case, socket, splitter, charger

While it costs more than the orion/celestron ones, the battery is of much higher quality, it's more than twice the capacity, easily replaceable parts etc.

u/Gliese581c · 1 pointr/vandwellers
u/arightproperpotato · 1 pointr/Dashcam

Thank you! This is really helpful for me. I think I'll go with your approach of using a 12v socket USB adapter (most likely in the glove box); I don't want to risk a shoddy cable giving me problems when it's really hot/cold.

I'm relatively inexperienced when it comes to electronics/car customization, so pardon any trivial questions.

  • Is a fuse tap required if there is a vacant fuse slot in the fuse box?
  • How can I identify the correct fuse slot/amperage that I need for the dashcam (or any accessory for that matter)?
  • Is it worth purchasing a pry tool set for running the wires?
  • Assuming I use an "always on" fuse slot (so I'm able to use parking mode on the dashcam), is there concern that it could drain the battery?
  • If so, are there in-line protective devices that would prevent this, or is this an altogether incredibly unlikely event? (something like this?)

    Shopping List:

  • Fuse tap

  • 12v Socket Plug

  • Anker 2port USB car charger

  • 15ft micro USB to USB cable
u/zombiemann · 1 pointr/amateurradio

All of the KT-8900Ds that I have looked at have a cigarette lighter adapter. You can buy an adapter to go between the battery and radio like this. Otherwise a bit of cut and splice may be in order. As long as you have an appropriately rated fuse, you can wire straight to the battery.

u/frothface · 1 pointr/vandwellers

It's kinda like trying to weigh a letter for postage with a scale set up on a trampoline full of kids. It's bouncing up and down, so it looks like the letter weight is going up and down because it doesn't have a stable reference point because it's getting noise from the power line.

Laptop, you'd have to find a DC adapter for that model of laptop. Dell used to make some, not sure about other brands. They are kinda pricey considering you already have the inverter.

For phones, there are a couple different charge technologies, but they are all USB (sort of). Normal 5v USB is limited to 0.5 amps, so it charges slow. There is a higher power 5v USB, which is I believe 1.1 amps, and then there are USB charging adapters that put out somewhere around 2 amps. 2 amps is about the limit for the cable, so to charge faster than that they have what are called 'quick charge' adapters, which operate at voltage higher than 5v, either 9 or 12v depending on the device being charged.

Most of them are wall adapters, so I'm assuming that's what you mean by 'mains charging [was] faster'. But, they do make [DC quick chargers] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019OSX8UC?psc=1&smid=A142BGUZC6UH73) that will charge just as fast as the wall. It will also be more efficient than firing up a 1kw inverter to step it up to mains voltage to run a 30ish watt switching power supply that converts it back down to 5/9/12v. I'm not recommending that specific model; it seems to have good reveiws but I've never used that specific one.

Just make sure your phone supports quick charge, and know that there is quick charge, qc2.0 and qc3.0. They should be backwards compatible (it would charge at the highest voltage that both support), but I'm not 100% certain on that. You'd also need some way to connect that to the battery, something like this.

u/NateTheGreat68 · 1 pointr/Autos

/u/SirDigbyChknCasear is right, the Escort 8500 uses 12V according to the manual.

OP, I would get something like this 12V socket, figure out where the radar detector's power cord meets the vehicle's harness (presumably somewhere behind the dash), and splice this in there. Do it properly - either using solder and heat shrink or using appropriately-sized butt connectors. Don't just twist the wires together and slap on some electrical tape. From there, you can plug in the dash cam's power adapter and run its cable separately while still maintaining a fairly clean look. Depending on how the radar detector is turned on and off, you may want to add a switch somewhere.

If the dash cam has a power adapter that isn't just a standard "cigarette lighter" plug, then you can probably wire it in without the 12V socket adapter. I can't help more without more info.

u/jmacri922 · 1 pointr/CPAP

I got a 40ah AGM for $140 at Interstate battery not too long ago and it worked perfectly on my last tent camping trip. Got 4 nights of out it without power. No humidifier and heated tube of course. See if there is a dealer local to you. I've seen cheaper AGMs also but this is an investment if you go camping often The dealer also will charge my AGM for free every 6 mo. Get a volt meter to take charge measurements. Grab a cigarette lighter plug hardwire kit that can handle the amps you need and hardwire it to the terminals. The clamps that came with my kit are almost worthless.

u/edom31 · 1 pointr/mazda3

I have mine hard-wired to the fuse box (on only when ignition) - I did not use a kit, rather used a piggy back fuse thingy and this for pluggin it in (cut the red-end to attach it to the tap-fuse end).

It is more stable/better quality than the kits... and has an inline fuse for added protection.

u/Dodge_Viper2015 · 1 pointr/cars

Here's the one I keep in my truck: https://www.amazon.com/PowerStation-PSX-3-Jumpstarter-Compressor-Outlet/dp/B00GNG9N30

I ve used it three times. Works great each time. Air compressor is almost as good as the one I keep my house

u/homescrubb · 1 pointr/vandwellers

You're on the right track there. You'll need a cigarette lighter socket adapter and a battery charger. I have this one.

That should do it for you. You'll have the battery, the charger, the adapter and the fan. You'd also be able to add a light, phone charger, fridge, etc to the existing set up in the future.

u/kurbycar32 · 1 pointr/Tools

Battery tenders are really great at keeping already good batteries good, but they don't work well for actually charging a battery. I have a trailer, dirt bikes and a car I don't drive often on battery tenders but I have a dedicated battery charger in with my tools. I'm using this Black and Decker unit that I really like and it also has a trickle charger.

BLACK+DECKER BC15BD 15 Amp Bench Battery Charger with 40 Amp Engine Start and Alternator Check https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNMKRU8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VrheAbSWKK9S2

u/dbbldz123 · 1 pointr/vandwellers

I've been looking into those automatic battery chargers/engine starters for this purpose but what I'd really like is a manual voltage adjust or programmable one so I can be sure that it's indeed charging at the correct voltages for bulk, absorption, and float stages of whatever battery gets hooked up. After learning a bit about all this I'm not sure I trust the garden variety auto battery charger. Also if I'm not mistaken the amperage rating on them needs to be higher to charge in any reasonable amount of time? The 1A battery tender type charging devices seem like they might take a long time? Perhaps someone has some experience with this and can chime in on a good solution for us.

u/Kramereng · 1 pointr/chicago

A battery charger is a great thing to keep in the trunk as well. Here's one example although they have cheaper and more expensive / elaborate models: http://www.amazon.com/Decker-BC15BD-Battery-Charger-Engine/dp/B00KNMKRU8/ref=lp_15707061_1_22?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1451959575&sr=1-22

u/truckerslife · 1 pointr/vandwellers

Start the vehicle. Use something along the lines of the below device. It makes it so you can add the vehicle battery into the mix. But you never discharge it to far so it's always able to start the engine.

You also put an alarm on the system like the link below that. Also if your decent with electronics... I'm sure something like a raspberry pi or Arduino could be set up so that it would auto start the vehicle on low voltage and shut it back down when the batteries are charged so you don't even need to get up of your batteries run low.

I haven't tried to build the auto start circuit (I did a quick look and didn't find one) but I'm Pretty sure I could set something up in a few days.... shit.... I don't think you'd even need it to be as complex as needing an RPi. You could set up something with a relay. The relay would deactivate below 12 volts and a simple circuit to not re engage the relay after it hits 14 volts across the battery bank..... and honestly a lot of that is in the battery isolator. So you'd set something up so that when the system disconnects the main battery off the network it starts the vehicle and shuts it off once the batteries are charged.


12V 140 Amp Dual Battery Smart Isolator by KeyLine - VSR - Voltage Sensitive Relay Specially Designed for ATV, UTV, Boats, RV's, Campers 5th Wheels Off Road Vehicles Rhino Polaris Artic Cat ETC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WTAFR84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8I-FDbSS89NYW


12V Lead Acid Battery Capacity Meter Voltage Tester Multifunction Voltmeter Battery Capacity Indicator with Low Voltage Alarm Function https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MXJ64TV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cL-FDbX0F9XWF

u/justhereformyvans · 1 pointr/vandwellers

3 questions, please bear with me!

  1. Anyone have experience with the low frequency AIMS 1250w inverter / charger? I've seen alot about AIM's other units, but not this. Thoughts? Also, after looking through the manual, still having a tough time figuring out the right fuse size.

    ​

  2. Also considering using the Wirthco battery doctor instead of the Keyline 140amp battery isolator because of the jump start ability. What do you think?

    ​

  3. I've seen alot of people attach to the CCP points on the ford transit. Any reason more people aren't just going straight to the battery terminal?

    ​

    Thanks for the help

    ​
u/sketticat · 1 pointr/vandwellers
u/OgZero · 1 pointr/S2000

I'm not quite sure. I have thought about cutting the corroded terminal and attaching a new terminal but it looks like I am cutting right where the two cables combine and would not have enough wire for the terminal. I could probably try it though because I guess I have no other options with the cables current state. It looks like it may have been cut before by the previous owner(s).

If I did cut the cables and separated them I have thought about trying something like this but I think it requires crimping.

u/xc0z · 1 pointr/CherokeeXJ

man... this really sounds like a battery issue.

before you lose your hair and junk your jeep, go to a boat shop and look for some Zinc No Corrosion battery lugs and some crimp on ring ends. Get some dielectric grease or Noalox to fill those ring ends too. Cut the stock lead shit off. Clean your battery terminals WELL with a wire brush or a battery terminal cleaner. fill a ring with DG or Noalox, and crimp. assemble. From the same boat store, they ought to have some battery terminal protector spray too - it's red sticky, and oily too. that'll keep the water from corroding your terminals.

Parts:
https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-TZKIT2-Lead-Free-Battery-Terminal/dp/B00DNU3MNG or
https://www.amazon.com/Military-Spec-Battery-Terminal-Post/dp/B00X36RILW/

https://www.amazon.com/Ideal-30-030-Anti-Oxidant-Compound-Squeeze/dp/B000LDE7V4

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-Marine-Battery-Terminal-Protector/dp/B0000AZ9J4

u/s5fs · 1 pointr/autorepair

I wouldn't make the cables any smaller, I'd try to find a terminal style that fits the cable. Copper wire is very expensive and new terminals are like $5 and easy to change.

With regards to stacking, I don't like doing that. I prefer to crimp a lug to the end of the cable and attach those to the terminals, similar to this: (https://www.amazon.com/Military-Spec-Battery-Terminal-Post/dp/B00X36RILW/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=battery+terminals&qid=1558971029&s=gateway&sr=8-4)

You can also find terminals that accept multiple cables if you just want to poke them in and crimp them down.

At the end of the day, don't overthink it. You want a good connection between the battery post, the terminal, and the cable. There are a few ways to make this happen, and if you get it wrong, the car won't start :D

Good luck!

u/element_ir · 1 pointr/Jeep

Yep. All of you were right. Battery was toast. Replaced today and spliced in new terminals. Started right up.

Fastronix Military Spec Battery Terminal Top Post Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X36RILW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QDp0Cb43K2W1C

u/How_Do_You_Crash · 1 pointr/vandwellers

I'm not an electrictian, so please make sure you design your system safely. Below is how I chose to do it, but it's by no means the only way and each vehicle and system has different requirements.

The way I ran it was through a hole in the firewall to my house battery box (which is behind my drivers seat). The cable runs from the van battery with a larger terminal connector immediately to an 80amp circuit breaker next to the battery to protect against any shorting, then through the firewall, under the carpet next to the drivers door, under the driver's seat, into my battery cabinet where I connected it to a Stinger 80amp isolator, then from the stinger to the battery system. I'm running 2 6V lead acid golf cart batteries.

My old man did a similar run to charge his Lithiums while driving, but he has 2 100ah battle born LiFePO4 batteries and his 2018 promaster can handle charging them. I don't know which alternator he is running though so again your mileage may very based on what the batteries can suck down, guy have burnt up alternators before trying to charge deeply depleted lithium batteries without a B2B charger.

u/JI808 · 1 pointr/CarAV

The batteries are not secure in all directions. They should be.

There's nothing protecting the battery terminals.

In your 2nd picture, what's going on with that stray wire? Is that a random RCA?

Tons of exposed strands at power connection points at amps. Makes no sense. That place has heat shrink with shop logo printed on it. Use it.

Wire nuts. No.

Your batteries are wired incorrectly. Positive should be connected to battery 1 then connected in parallel to battery 2. The positive jumper should be red. Not sure why they used black. The ground should be connected to battery 2 then paralleled to battery 1. Like so. Some new terminals like these would be cheap and clean up your wiring.

Cable management isn't the greatest.

u/jcream1n · 1 pointr/bonnaroo

http://www.amazon.com/Roadpro-Battery-Clip-On-Cigarette-Lighter/dp/B00065L2D8/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_img_z

just add car battery and cigarette lighter adapter to multiple outlets

u/yawg6669 · 1 pointr/astrophotography

No problem. Do you have the cigarette outlet style adapter? If so, then you need something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Roadpro-Battery-Cigarette-Lighter-Adapter/dp/B00065L2D8

u/RELesPaul · 1 pointr/camping

We use the same hmmwv, no armor. There are 2 latches under the passenger seat. One up front, one on the side. Unlatch them and you will be able to lift the seat from the front. caption There is a small gap you will be able to run the wire out once you clipped the leads on the terminals. You could get something like this. This but the wire might not be long enough and the clamps might not be large enough but you get the idea. RadioShack will have all the parts & pieces too. Item of interest; there are 2 batteries under that seat (since it's a 24v system) running in parallel (not series right?) So make sure when you clamp your leads you do them both on the same battery and not the + of one and - of the other bc your charger is meant for 12v. You guys don't have LMTV?

u/vanquish421 · 1 pointr/motorcycles

So something like this connected to the battery under the seat?

u/Geekoccc · 1 pointr/Blacksmith

Oh boy you're in for a treat! You can run those off of any 12v battery, you just need to connect it like this or if you are feeling janky, you can just connect directly to the little plug. Gimme an hour or so and I can get you some pictures of what I mean.

u/c3h8pro · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

Your VW dealer should be able to get and install a battery tender charger/cycler and install it. You basically plug it into an extension cord and it monitors the battery level and charges it as needed and then cycles it or pulls some power off and replaces it so the battery is "fresh" so to speak. When you start a diesel you draw power off the battery to heat glow plugs to raise the temp in the cylinder and spins the motor over to create compression allowing the fuel to ignite under the cylinder pressure. If its cold this takes more power to do. (this is very over simplified) When the car sits for several days the things that draw power all the time have a cumulative effect on the battery robbing you of amperage needed for starts, quick runs to the grocer don't allow for time to recharge the battery by the alternator. Now if you went out every other day and started the car and let her idle for 15 to 20 minutes then drove till your engine temp came to the operating range then parked you would be fine for another couple days, this isn't practical for you though so you can buy a battery tender instead. I attached the Amazon link of a model we use on our tractors and a military dump truck we have at my ranch in North Carolina it works very well and I have used it for two years. Good luck.

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-SuperSmart-Constantly-Encapsulated/dp/B000CITKCE/ref=sr_1_7?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1518881929&sr=1-7&keywords=battery+tender

u/Assstray · 1 pointr/ebikes

Fix your ridiculous battery mount and bring it indoors.


Otherwise you need a thermally regulated heater.

https://www.amazon.com/Kats-22200-Watt-Battery-Thermal/dp/B000I8XD9E

You can prevent your battery from freezing by insulting it just the way you would insulate yourself.





u/slrqm · 1 pointr/answers

Like PatAunces said, you're battery is probably dead. Hopefully it's not dead dead.

If you have accesses to an outlet here are a couple of items that will make future cold starts easier:

Battery Thermal Wrap
Universal Hot Pad Heater

You could also look into picking up a battery charger that supports trickle charges and leave it on your battery over night.

I have an old SUV that sits outside and only gets driven every other month. I disconnect the battery when I park it. If I don't the battery is dead in less than a week.

u/bestjakeisbest · 1 pointr/tifu

well you dont have to get that exact one there are others like this one

u/meggaladon · 1 pointr/motorcycles

AAA jumped me off something like
this

u/professorwomble · 1 pointr/vandwellers

what about something like this?
http://www.amazon.com/Jump-N-Carry-JNC660-1700-12-Volt-Starter/dp/B000JFJLP6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1463253195&sr=8-4&keywords=jump+start

designed for jumping cars I use one here in the UK. You can get them with 12volt output or even USB output.

u/ANeonBlueDecember · 1 pointr/ToyotaTacoma

indel B Travel Box 51 liter Fridge.

 

I don't have solar yet; I currently run it directly off the stock starter battery. I've run it overnight a few times and had no issue starting the truck the next day, but just incase I always carry a jump starter. Stock battery obviously isn't deep cycle, so not great to be draining the battery like that, but it works for now.

 

Here's the fridge strapped in to the truck for a trip. Ultimately it will live in the bed of the truck on a slider after I install an aux fuse box back there. Picture of the interior with a Powerade bottle for scale. Great if you like camping with your truck, no ice to worry about, nothing get's soggy as the ice melts and your cooler fills with water.

u/LennyGravHits · 1 pointr/ElectricForest

My car battery died 2 winters ago, so I got a heavy duty jumper and a power inverter, so it charges shit galore. Lasted 2 or 3 days, even with everyone using it to charge various phones. I wanted to recharge it in vip, but I forgot to bring a male to female extension cord (which I won't forget to bring this year). https://www.amazon.com/Jump-N-Carry-JNC660-1700-12-Volt-Starter/dp/B000JFJLP6

u/Fulmario · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

I've seen a lot of jump packs over the years. I've disassembled many for repair and recycling. Most have never really stood out in quality to me. They're all about the same. You can spend a varying degree of money on them.

There are 3 basic sizes. A lot of brands will through 'power' numbers at you like 900 peak amps or 1500 etc etc. They are all basically made the same, and usually pretty cheaply.

It's important to know that jump packs basically assist a weak battery. The chances of it starting a stone dead car battery are limited. Many factors play a roll. Size of engine/car. Temperature (cold = car needs more power, batteries produce less power). How dead the car battery is. Jumper cables and an assisting car is the best option, but jump packs can be convenient.

Jump packs are just another battery. So they have a life too. 3-5 years on average. Older they get the less power they put out. They need maintenance too. They need to be charged after every use and need periodic charging (every couple months).

Personally, I like Quick Cable's designs. Good quality. You plug an extension cord into it to charge it. Many other brands have their own charger wall pack and these get lost (trust me).

Every company uses the same quality of internal battery in these. Cheap. There are thousands of battery manufacturers for Sealed Lead Acid batteries in China. There are thousands of brands you'll find in these jump packs (even Quick Cable). Do not expect brand A's internal battery to be a lot better than brand B. When buying a jump pack, the build quality of the casing, lights, cables is what to look at.

Once your jump pack battery dies, you can replace the internal battery. It's usually most of the cost of the jump pack.

Ones with inverters or air pumps can be handy. But these are typically cheap components. I've run into my own issues with the Quick Cable ones that had these built in.

The smallest ones like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Clore-JNC300XL-Jump-N-Carry-Ultraportable-12-Volt/dp/B000XQ9MGE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416949837&sr=8-1&keywords=car+jump+pack

Internally, these have a 12v 7 or 8 Amp Hour Sealed Lead Acid battery. Basically a bigger moped battery. If your Honda Civic cranks but can't start and it's 50°F outside, this would help you get it started. If your Honda had it's lights on for 2 days and is stone dead, forget about it. I'd avoid these. Priced from $30-70 typically. These have short cables that can be annoying to work with.

Most common size:

http://www.amazon.com/Clore-JNC660-Jump-N-Carry-12-Volt-Starter/dp/B000JFJLP6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1416949837&sr=8-3&keywords=car+jump+pack&pebp=1416950179642

Internally have a 12v 17-20 Amp Hour battery. Basically a motorcycle battery. Will start most vehicles, even trucks. $50-$150 typically.

Third type, heavy duty:
http://www.quickcable.com/products.php?pageId=177

I bought this for my father-in-law because I knew it was good build quality and could start about everything. With my discount it was around $130 with a battery. The battery I used was the same size as a lawn tractor. Retail probably $200-$300.


EDIT
I live in Wisconsin, so my experience may vary depending on your climate. Typically, cold related battery failures are the leading cause. So a small $50 jump pack may work great in Florida for someone that left their lights in October. But January in Wisconsin is going to tell you a different tale.

EDIT 2
Please avoid these at all costs.

http://www.amazon.com/Weego-JS6-Standard-Batteries--Packaging/dp/B00N9XVPBS/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1416951350&sr=8-17&keywords=car+jump+pack&pebp=1416951352732

Basically you're using a laptop battery to start your car.

u/available_username2 · 1 pointr/teslamotors

Where is this picture from? Can someone explain to me why there is a jump pack on the passenger floor? It's this one
https://www.amazon.com/Jump-N-Carry-JNC660-1700-Peak-Starter/dp/B000JFJLP6

u/strongtrea · 1 pointr/worldnews

Jump Start boxes are great. They make cheaper and smaller ones, but this "dumb" one (no on/off switch) is perfect when helping out someone with a problem or when you leave the map lights on overnight as long as you cover the terminals and exercise care (as there is no on/off switch)- https://www.amazon.com/Jump-N-Carry-JNC660-1700-Peak-Starter/dp/B000JFJLP6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1492454578&sr=8-2&keywords=jump%2Bstart%2Bbox&th=1

AAA roadside assistance in the US often carries the exact same box (I assume regular tow trucks do the same). Which I later bought myself and works great and can jump many times before a recharge is needed. But if you get one of the smaller $40 ones to keep in the trunk (take it in the house to give it a re-charge every 4-6 months or after you use it) and your battery is totally dead (vs just low) and you have a V6 or larger engine, I have found that you can make due by: (a) connecting red to red and black to black (vs black to the metal in your car as the instructions generally state), and (b) leaving the thing sitting connected for a few minutes before turning the key so as to trickle in some juice.

With a big old jump box - just connect (I tend to do red to red and black to black instead of the metal in my car) and turn the key for a good clean start even in really cold weather with a dead battery. Between not driving that much, mistakes and helping others, I use my box at least 3x a year.

u/tacsquid · 1 pointr/Military

I would recommend something like this over jumper cables. Last thing you want is to mess up your own battery and have 2 cars stranded. This is one of the only things I was never issued that I thought should be in the standard loadout.

http://www.amazon.com/Jump-N-Carry-JNC660-1700-12-Volt-Starter/dp/B000JFJLP6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1453038363&sr=8-2&keywords=jump+start+box

u/herpderpstar · 1 pointr/AskSF

I've went through a few and alot of them fail after a while/don't hold their charge.

Talked with a few AAA service and alot of them recommended this:

http://www.amazon.com/Jump-N-Carry-JNC660-1700-12-Volt-Starter/dp/B000JFJLP6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1453145747&sr=8-3&keywords=car+battery+jumper

u/99Sienna · 1 pointr/vandwellers

When driving, I charge off the 12v lighter plug on the dash board with a small inverter. Like this one. Having two plugs plus USB is really useful. I always unplug it when parked though so as not to drain the car battery. Using this, I make sure my laptop batter is at full charge when I park for the night. https://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-300W-Power-Inverter-Adapter/dp/B004MDXS0U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503271065&sr=8-1&keywords=12v+inverter+to+120v

At night, or when parked for a couple of days, I use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Jump-N-Carry-JNC660-1700-Peak-Starter/dp/B000JFJLP6/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1503270823&sr=8-7&keywords=car+jump+battery+pack

There are many makes and models of this kind of thing. The one I purchased was on sale at Harbor Freight. I recharge it with an extra long extension cord, depending on my stops/sleeping locations (not too hard to find places to plug in most of the time). It charges phones, tablet, and laptop. Plus, I have something just in case I am alone and the minivan does need a jump, or I meet someone who needs one.

I also use a solar powered light that will also charge my phone if needed. It sits on the dash board to charge up and then I can use it at night. I found a deal on it on Amazon Warehouse. https://www.amazon.com/WakaWaka-Light-Solar-Powered-Flashlight-Yellow/dp/B00W6NTLXG/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1503270978&sr=1-1&keywords=waka+waka

I also carry two small battery packs (great for air travel too) that charge using the USB plug on the inverter. I make sure they are fully powered all the time.

I'm sure other folks have other ideas about how to do this without solar. I'm curious about what those might be too.

u/lenoat702 · 1 pointr/EDC

http://www.amazon.com/Clore-Automotive-JNC660-Jump-N-Carry-12-Volt/dp/B000JFJLP6

It has came in handy plenty of times worth the every penny.

u/RunOnSmoothFrozenIce · 1 pointr/telescopes

Ah, good to know. Although I do have the powertank, I don't use it anyway, since it doesn't hold a charge (actually use this, which works out really well!).

u/WorkoutProblems · 1 pointr/motorcycles

Longsleeve was essential, since I'm usually out during the day when it's hot as hell, crazy how cold even 50mph winds can get at night.

As for sunblock, started to realize 30-60 minutes with the sun beaming on me probably wasn't the best to go unprotected. Also an extra pair of ear plugs


My bike already came with this installed, which apparently can be used if you have gear that has electric warming features

Then I got this which is basically a USB adapter, use it to charge my phone or GPS etc

u/funnythebunny · 1 pointr/Harley

Ask your dealer if they installed one (they're not factory equipped); if they didn't , you can get one from Amazon for less than $6

u/sdriv3r · 1 pointr/motorcycles

I have something like this up front: https://www.amazon.com/Goodway-Universal-Motorcycle-Waterproof-Rotation/dp/B07BRR9RPM/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1550853589&sr=8-13&keywords=motorcycle+phone+mount

The cable runs under the tank all the way back under the rear seat. I cut off the ring terminals and attached this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Battery-Tender-SAE-DC-Power-Automotive-DIY-Connector-Cables-2x0-75mm-30cm-300mm/142428764913?epid=1238902560&hash=item21296a7af1:g:j6sAAOSwWxNYyOzV:rk:1:pf:1&frcectupt=true

I also have the standard battery ring terminal that comes with the battery tender running from the battery all the way back under the rear seat as well. Basically this from the battery:
https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1550854062&sr=8-6&keywords=sae+connector

The end result is you have 2 SAE connectors under the seat. One that runs to the battery and one that runs to the USB charger.

If you want to use the the charger you linked and if you already have a cable that is long enough, you can run the cable from the battery to the rear, then loop it around and run it to the front. Under the seat simply cut the red cable and just put any switch of your liking in-line: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1311.R1.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.Xtoggle+.TRS0&_nkw=toggle+switch&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=293&_odkw=switch&LH_TitleDesc=0

Let me know if you want more pictures of my setup. I can snap some up (currently the bike has fairings/seat off since I am getting it re-padded).

u/TheGoingVertical · 1 pointr/Ruckus

Get these Battery Tender 081-0069-6 Ring Terminal Harness with Black Fused 2-Pin Quick Disconnect Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kZ.tzb78XRSC3

Battery Tender 021-0123 Battery Tender Junior 12V, 0.75A Battery Charger will charge and maintain your battery so that it is ready to go when you are! It's lightweight, fully automatic and easy to use https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CITK8S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_y4.tzbARX0FQZ

They also sell them as a package at most battery stores. I can't tell by the description if the tender includes the adapter as well.

Every time you get home plug it in and leave it plugged in.

u/Cecilsan · 1 pointr/motorcycles

In terms of having something to charge a battery without taking the seat/unscrew everything, you could get him something like what you've linked but I would opt for a SAE connection cable. SAE connections are much more common for accessories (like chargers or USB connectors) than the BMW cigarette style.

This is what I have on my bike for battery tenders and separate USB plugs

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498076141&sr=8-1&keywords=battery+tender+cable - $6

You could easily get him this in addition to whatever else.

edit - fixed link

u/derolle · 1 pointr/motorcycles

I use one on my bikes. I've seen my battery get low if I'm running a lot of lights or use my E-start a few times on a short trip. It definitely extends the life of a battery.

If you get one buy one of these too:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_45gNzb60665XK

It's a harness that you attach to your battery, and you can put the quick connector somewhere so you don't always have to remove your seat. On my dirt bikes, I put them behind my air box door next to the air box, so I can access it within seconds.

u/faultlessjoint · 1 pointr/everymanshouldknow
u/silentstorm2008 · 1 pointr/bestof

I just carry this.

Its freaking way more convenient.

u/l4ur · 1 pointr/mazda
  • I love clean things and I want to pickup the CX-5 branded all weather floor mats and cargo tray. Is there a better option?

    I have the Weather Tech mats and they're awesome.


  • When cleaning the inside I planned to only use a microfiber cloth and/or a slightly damp with warm water microfiber. Is there a better way?

    I keep a microfiber towel in the glove box for quick wipe downs, but every few weeks or so, I'll use Meguiar's to clean the interior.


  • Are there any accessories I might not know about that are must haves?

    I have a jump starter just in case anything went wrong! Beyond that, hmm... I'm not entirely sure. I have done some light modding to my CX-5, but nothing that are like, "OH MAN, GET THIS!"
u/Decyde · 1 pointr/funny

I carry a jump starter in my car because I don't want to ever have to fuck with jumping another car again. It's more of a hassle to position the damn cars together than anything else plus jumping cars isn't good for yours. I have had this jump starter for well over 2 years and the damn thing is great. I didn't charge it once for over 3 months and kept it in the trunk of my car in the cold weather and it jumped my friends car first go. It's well worth the $70 and I bought it because my battery was dead once and I missed a full days worth of work. Had I had this, it would have paid for itself right there.

u/thetinguy · 1 pointr/Fixxit

Nothing stopping you from buying a jump starter and charging the battery. It might take a while, but it's probably not that dead. i took one of these and just clamped it to the battery: http://smile.amazon.com/Jump-N-Carry-JNC300XL-Ultraportable-Starter-Light/dp/B000XQ9MGE/

fyi i think you are fine jumping from the pig tails. i've done it before. but i don't have your bike. they only use that high current for a couple of seconds. and there's probably a fuse in there anyway.

u/gusgizmo · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

https://www.amazon.com/Post-Battery-Master-Disconnect-Switch/dp/B001N729FS

​

While you are figuring out what the issue is. . .

u/omnipotent87 · 1 pointr/Cartalk

Leave the positive alone and disconnect the ground. Also if your are going to leave the vehicle sitting for extended periods you should get a quick disconnect. Something like this http://www.amazon.com/Post-Battery-Master-Disconnect-Switch/dp/B001N729FS.

u/Fog_xyz · 1 pointr/Cartalk

You mean one of these?
http://www.amazon.com/Post-Battery-Master-Disconnect-Switch/dp/B001N729FS

Ask your dealer if that $150 includes KY or whether that costs extra, too. If you can open a can by yourself, you can install one in about 5 minutes. You just need a wrench (or socket) that fits the nut on your car's battery terminal (the black wire that attaches to the battery).

u/Extectic · 1 pointr/RVLiving

One thing to keep in mind is that normal lead-acid batteries require charging over long periods of time. If you drain your lead-acid house batteries to 50% charge (which is the maximum for deep discharge lead-acid/AGM) it will take hours of charging to bring them back up to 100%, and many people just don't drive that many hours. That's why there is usually solar which will charge all day long.

Nowadays, you can also buy Lithium Iron batteries, which don't suffer from being part discharged, and which charge much faster. But that's a bigger up-front investment.

As for how you hook up your battery pack to the alternator - you need a smart battery isolator that first fills up your car battery, and only then switches to send charge to your house battery. To keep your voltage drop to a minimum, you need thick wires to go 18 feet (which is 36 feet total, as the number that matters is the full round trip, not just one way.)

https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Battery-Isolator-Voltage-Sensitive/dp/B00400IYTK for example.

u/TrouserPudding · 1 pointr/Cartalk

> I need to take a look and see if I have the space for it under the hood (probably) but would be best if I could use a battery box in the bed of the truck.

Either way works, but it's a lot more fairly expensive wire to get back to the bed.

This is what I'm using (or something really similar): http://www.amazon.com/Smart-Dual-Battery-140A-Isolator/dp/B00400IYTK/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1416450132&sr=8-8&keywords=battery+isolator

Yeah, cheap chinese stuff. But it's been fine for a couple of years so I don't feel like it owes me anything. Expect that much more in properly sized cable and cable ends.

I had this and all the accessories on a previous plow truck: http://www.hellroaring.com/bic75150.php

It's really nice, but more than I wanted to spend for the foul weather/off road toy the new setup is on.

u/Strenglekirk · 1 pointr/vandwellers
u/masterf99 · 1 pointr/sportster

I imagine you could connect to the ignition circuit. GPS and cell phone chargers don't draw that much power, I'm pretty sure you would be okay. I'm not 100% certain though, maybe toss a thread up in XLForums, or ask /u/gunslinger_006, he is the resident Sportster expert IMO. Wherever you add the wire, ensure to fuse it properly.

Edit for what I do on my sporty: I have a battery tender lead tucked behind my fuse panel cover, and I got a 12 volt socket adapter for my tender plug. I keep it in my saddle bag, and charge up when I need to :-)

u/lothlin · 1 pointr/motorcycles

I've already got a dedicated charger for it, looks like the inverter is probably the best plan. So picking up one of these guys - http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-8-Cigarette-Disconnect/dp/B0041CDPQO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1462991533&sr=8-2&keywords=usb+to+cigarette+lighter+adapter - to go with the inverter and the standard usb adapter is probably going to be my best bet.

I appreciate the help!

u/FullyBaked · 1 pointr/motorcycles

At first I only used this Cardo Scala G4 which installs into almost any helmet. Now I mainly use it just for music. The playback controls are super easy.

Very recently I added a Battery Tender cigarette adapter along with this Ram Handle Bar Base and my existing Ram X-Grip Mountwith a 1" socket arm. I just took it on a good 2 day ride and loved it completely.

u/asgeorge · 1 pointr/motorcycles

What bike? A throttle lock will help a lot. I use this from Vista Cruise. Works well with a little bit of fiddling.

Definitely get a helmet speaker system that can bluetooth to your phone. I use the Sena SMH-10. Worth every penny. You can stream Pandora straight to your helmet and one touch on the control activates the voice dialing function on your phone.

Also a 12v lighter plug for your phone charger will keep the tunes and maps and emergency comms working. I use a cheap lighter socket ($6) that plugs into my battery tender port. I run it into my tank bag where I keep my phone.

u/DocBrownMusic · 1 pointr/motorcycles

My bike already had a battery tender cable hooked up, so I got this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0041CDPQO/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0047T79TA/ref=oh_details_o04_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The USB is super small (barely even sticks out of the cig lighter). I jam this whole thing in my pocket because I use it to power my chatterbox on long rides.

$30 all together, but then you have a battery tender connector, a cig lighter connector, and a USB connector. You can pretty much do anything with that combo.

u/JVonDron · 1 pointr/motorcycles

Or just get more batteries with a charger kit like this, which I got for my Drift Ghost and really saved my bacon on the long trip I just took. I was able to film and take pictures with a camera mounted helmet and charge the extra batteries in my bag at the same time. They make them for GoPro too.

Might I also suggest a battery tender cable with fuse, SAE to female cig adapter if you don't want to attempt any soldering or rewiring, and to charge your phone and other electronics SAE to usb adapter

u/OreoGaborio · 1 pointr/motorcycles

Yup. You want to use something like this.

http://amzn.com/B0041CDPQO

u/DeviantB · 1 pointr/TomorrowWorld

I'm thinking about building my own solar power generator using 'B' grade solar cells from eBay (<$1/watt) and a ~$100 12V deep cycle battery (an understanding of electronics and soldering is required to DIY), but as a solo attendee, I'm a little concerned about transporting 'too much stuff' from my car to Dreamville in a small collapsible cart as well as my 'footprint' as a single attendee (in a 5'x7' tent with privacy shelter/shower).

If you interested in the technical details, I'm looking at 2 or 3 ~60-65W panels and a ~10mAH battery. Total weight should be about 40-50lbs with panels, mounting frame and battery. Total cost for DIY: ~$300-400 plus 12-36hrs of assembly time.

The solar array 'frame' is another concern - I considered building a PVC frame covered by a solar reflective tarp around my tent to block that ugly morning sun/heat, but if I plan to integrate a solar array into the frame, my PVC must be strong enough (and pointed in the correct direction to collect sunlight) to support my array.

I already have a schaumacher xp2260, but I want to make sure that I have enough juice for 4 nights.

I've been thinking about this problem for a month so I'm anxious to hear some input from 'festival veterans'.

u/jcwright610 · 1 pointr/bonnaroo

Hey man. This one isn't Solar, but it does everything you could want it to do. I know it says you need an extension chord to charge it, but you can actually charge it up very quickly by hooking it to your car battery while your car is turned on. This probably has a little more battery life than the Goal Zero one as well. I've run fans and all kinds of stuff off this thing. You can run up to two fans at once off of it.

http://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-XP2260-Instant-Portable-Source/dp/B004EIAADG/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1462816217&sr=8-7&keywords=schumacher+battery+charger

u/Danny-Gone · 1 pointr/Busking

There are two answers to this question, the simple and the not-so-simple.

First, I disagree that the other posters that very low watt Roland amps are useful tools, especially where vocals are concerned. Powering your 15 watt AC required amp is a far better idea for the resulting sound.

Start with something like this :

https://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-XP2260-Instant-Portable-Source/dp/B004EIAADG

If your amp hums or otherwise doesn't like the power this provides, the complicated answer becomes necessary. The power this provides should last around 6-9 hours with a typical 15 watt solid state amp. the resulting sound will have much less distortion than any of the lightweight portables that are sold as busking solutions (With the possible exceptions of the Acus One for Street, AER Compact Mobile though neither of these really qualifies as small or light).

u/Ihaveamazingdreams · 1 pointr/LifeProTips

We have one of these little things. It's very handy.

u/roboticskull · 1 pointr/Cartalk

This is the one I have - https://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-XP2260-Instant-Portable-Starter/dp/B004EIAADG

Works pretty fast, I'd advise getting the male-to-male 12v plug so you can recharge it from your car. Can be used to pump up your tyres too and as a power source so you can use it for other things too (as long as it stays under the max AC power limits) like charging your laptop or phone.

u/IHateTomatoes · 1 pointr/Coachella

If you want something heavy duty for the whole group then a redditor had recommended this one. It can jumpstart the car if your car battery dies too.

http://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-XP2260-Instant-Portable-Source/dp/B004EIAADG?ie=UTF8&refRID=792GAHXCGEF2NBM3YSM8&ref_=pd_ybh_a_41

u/Alt-Right_is_rising · 1 pointr/cars
u/TurnbullFL · 1 pointr/Electricity

I think one of these is what you need.

u/slknicRN · 1 pointr/Coachella

This bad boy powered my wet-to-dry hair straightener and charged phones and battery packs, inflated air mattresses, and still had plenty of juice to jumpstart my truck Monday morning after I forgot about the internal lights being on with the doors open all weekend.
One of the best camping-festival investments I've made.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004EIAADG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_kXI5ybH1SKPJ9

u/MITpianoman · 1 pointr/AskElectronics
u/aaronfranke · 1 pointr/gaming

Lots of battery backups have AC on them. The one I use for my computer is AC output. Someone in the comments linked this multipurpose one https://smile.amazon.com/Schumacher-XP2260-Instant-Portable-Starter/dp/B004EIAADG

u/Saerlaith_SCA · 1 pointr/xxketo

Have you every considered getting an emergency portable jump starter? I have this one.

It has outlets, and USB ports. I used to drive a rather old car, so I would take it with me on road trips, but now I also take it for my weeklong SCA camping trips. I can charge my phone for emergencies, but also run a fan or a heater if I need to. I got it for leaving the house, but it's been handy for power outages!

u/nephrurus · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004EIAADG/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I bought this for camping and charging batteries. Kinda overkill but I camp alot.

u/sweatydillpickle · 1 pointr/boating

I have one of these, you have extra power in case of an emergency, USB ports etc which come in handy. Inflator is a bit slow and loud but I have a 2 stroke motor so my wife typically inflates while we motor out. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004EIAADG/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1495116657&sr=8-9&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=schumacher+battery+charger&dpPl=1&dpID=51-TdcM1rTL&ref=plSrch

u/batwingsuit · 1 pointr/sailing

Something like this?

Edit: Or better yet, something like this model? I like that it has leads per bank. This would allow me to leave the main battery switch set at OFF, effectively cutting it off from the alternator and anything else.

u/himateo · 1 pointr/scooters
u/LD_in_MT · 1 pointr/amateurradio

There are also a couple of different commercial electronic battery isolators. There's the big diode and heat sink type and the "smart" voltage sensing ones, like: https://www.amazon.com/WirthCo-20092-Battery-Doctor-Isolator/dp/B0058SGDFK
I use one of these to charge a gell cell in my vehicle and like it. I have it in a plastic ammo box with Anderson power poles. I just insert it inline or remove it when I don't need it.

u/gingermuffinboy · 1 pointr/vandwellers

This is exactly what he said when referencing a battery isolator - "You use it to isolate two batteries and you don't need the solenoid.
Plus it correctly regulates charging. There are variants of the pic so get the correct one for your voltage and current needs. They even make one that will allow your storage battery to boost your starter battery. They cheaper ones do not do this but can be jumped with a bypass switch.

What you have there is a potential fire. Also with 6v batteries, the charging rates can be different. Batteries in a series are always problematic."


But I just to make sure I understand you correctly. This device: https://www.amazon.com/WirthCo-20092-Battery-Doctor-Isolator/dp/B0058SGDFK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486427671&sr=8-1&keywords=automatic+battery+isolator

That will cover me in the same way that both the solenoid and the isolator switch will?

Also side note, I plan on purchasing two of these: http://www.genuinedealz.com/blue-sea-systems-5191-fuse-block-for-battery-terminal-fuse

Both, if I am correct, would go on the car battery positive terminal and the golf battery1 terminal.

u/jpmiller3137 · 1 pointr/vandwellers

Well I'm in Kenai National Park don't have a mailing address and there is a NAPA in Seward so I thought I might see what they have, but I only need to charge one auxiliary battery, which is currently charged via an isolator, to power my laptop so I can do photo editing any suggestions?

u/ironburger · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

Use something like this to charge the house batteries from the alternator: http://www.amazon.com/WirthCo-20092-Battery-Doctor-Isolator/dp/B0058SGDFK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1419301084&sr=8-4&keywords=battery+isolator

Buy the best inverter you can afford(that has enough watts to run your blender). I used a cheap 500w inverter from costco in my truck camper, it ran my 600w blender everyday, and I also ran my laptop and charged camera batteries etc from it. For about 10 weeks straight.
If you can afford it, buy a pure sine wave unit, if not, I wouldn't worry about it. I've since upgraded to a pure sine wave unit, but neither my laptop nor my blender suffered any ill effects from the modified sine wave unit.

u/cr0ft · 1 pointr/vandwellers

You need a smart switch for convenience, in my opinion. They're not that pricey. You can use them to let the power flow from the alternator to both batteries, but prevent power flow from the car battery to your appliances. This way, you'll never get stranded.

And with a smart switch that lets you connect the batteries in parallel with a button press, you can also start the car off the "house" battery pack in case the starter battery goes wonky or you accidentally drain it with a car radio or something.

It also charges your car battery with priority, which is what you want. When you start the van, you want the power you used to start it to be put back in it first, and then charge the house battery pack. You don't want the car battery drained because, again, hello being stranded.

Install it and forget it, basically. Why not do it right while you're installing it in the first place?

https://www.amazon.com/WirthCo-20092-Battery-Doctor-Isolator/dp/B0058SGDFK for example.

There are manual options, relay based options and then fully electronic smart options like this. Go with the smart option.

u/c00ki3znkr34m · 1 pointr/vandwellers

Thanks for the help!! Probably going to to use this one: https://www.amazon.com/WirthCo-20092-Battery-Doctor-Isolator/dp/B0058SGDFK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1482931643&sr=8-3&keywords=battery+isolator

Seems good? I doubt my alternator is rated at like 200 amps, it SHOULD be 100...... O_O. Ford Van. Econoline.

u/hunsuckercommando · 1 pointr/vandwellers

Here's the basic mods I went with for our Vandura. We wanted to keep it simple and get it done in a couple months. Since I work full-time, time was the major constraining factor. We only use ours for a weekend fun vehicle so your needs may be different. We like ours, but it's definitely not Instagram worthy. I'm assuming yours has the conversion setup inside (wood paneling etc.) so it should be similar

- Replace the factory valence and center lighting with LEDs. The stock lights are garbage and one of the valence lights shorted out with the previous owner and was a safety issue. We used multi-colored dimmable lights for the center ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ML5ZJQR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) and simple LEDs for the valence ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF64JG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ). After install the valence lights are SUPER bright; in retrospect, I'd use just one strip for all three valence lights

- Remove the rear captains chairs and install vinyl flooring in the middle. We have an electrically driven sofa/bed in the back that we wanted to keep in case we need extra legal seating, so we only installed flooring in the middle portion of the van between the cab and rear sofa seating. We found some vinyl "planks" at Walmart for dirt cheap (~$20 for the whole area) but the adhesive they came with didn't work great, especially with drastic temp changes. I'd suggest going with single sheet vinyl or laminate or, at the very least, using liquid nails as a substitute adhesive.

- Built a counter space/storage cabinet. I just used basic sideboard plans found on the internet. This stores our aux battery, fuse block, inverter and gives some additional storage space

- Install a battery isolator, aux battery, fuse block, inverter etc. We went with the Battery Doctor isolator ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058SGDFK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) because of the added ability to use the aux battery to supplement the starter battery in emergencies

- Install forced air ventilation. I didn't want to cut through the roof for a MaxxAir fan because we liked the lighting. Since the conversion van has 3 sets of sliding windows, we created a make-shift side vent fans out of 12V computer fans ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072NCYQRY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ). Three fans fit in each sliding window. Each fan is rated at 52CFM so (in theory) we get ~200-300CFM with two windows (eventually I'll get accurate measures with an anemometer just for curiosity's sake). Since we don't cook in the van and the van has multiple windows that open, this just helps the forced airflow to prevent condensation while sleeping.

- Upgraded the CRT TV to a flat screen ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X3VH4VK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ). Side note: the TV remote IR frequency changes the color of the multi-color LEDs. Maybe you can get around this with a different LED setup. We just turn the TV on before the lights to get around it

- Wired the TV, vent fans, and center lights to the aux battery. We originally had the valence lights hooked to it too, but since they're so damn bright we never used them and I reconnected them to the starter battery.

- Eventually, I'll build a storage compartment in the back that also opens to a table out the back hatch.

- So far, we're happy with just a cooler between the cab chairs. If we eventually go to a 12V fridge, we'll probably need another battery which doesn't make economic sense for what we use the van for

u/Naughty_Burrito · 1 pointr/vandwellers

We're getting ready to install some/most of our electrical setup. The plan is to charge the house battery via shore and alternator, with the option to add solar in the future. Are these essentially the only charging components I would need? Does the Ctek replace the charge controller? I just found out about it recently.

Samlex Smart Charger (Shore Power)

Ctek D250SA (Alternator/Solar)

u/LastTreestar · 1 pointr/vandwellers

Lost a huge reply so I'll just say this:

I have this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005LBCVL4/

Downsides: expensive, 20A charging limit

Upsides: MPPT controller, smart charging, can add on the SMARTPASS for 80A more of charging

Panel I got on sale:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BMNGVV3/

If you want the cheap option, search the sub for isolator. I don't recommend them since they don't charge batteries properly.

u/musicvan · 1 pointr/vandwellers
u/voonoo · 1 pointr/Tools

I have this one it works great

CTEK (56-864) MUS4.3 12 Volt Fully Automatic 8 Step Battery Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006G14FK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qIkUBbTWPPZJ1

u/ichii3d · 1 pointr/Bend

I bought a CTEK a year or so ago and haven't regretted it. Instead of buying a car battery every time it breaks simply restore it using this. Batteries will die very quickly in cold weather, I haven't experienced a winter yet in Bend but I get the feeling having a dead battery is common if you don't run your car for a few weeks.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006G14FK8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also have a portable battery in my trunk, if my battery ever dies I can just hook it up and jump start it. You can also use it to charge electronic devices in emergency situations. I don't recall what thats called, I got it from Autozone.

Hope it helps.

u/eightdrunkengods · 1 pointr/motorcycles

I have one that I can plug into the little 2-prong bullet plug that may batter tender plugs into. only plug it in when I need it.

I have this.

But if you want to use the one you have, you could wire it up to something like this.

Really, though, I don't think anybody is going to think to charge their iphone off your bike.

u/AgentOrange87 · 1 pointr/FortCollins

Hmm what else. Try Hog Haven for an awesome relaxed camp ground. Glencoe if ya want to get wild. Beers are expensive, cocktails are even worse. Figure out what type of trip you want. I’ve had trips with lots of riding and sight seeing, trips with lots of drinking and partying. The list of shit to do there is endless. Just go and be down for whatever.

Get one of these for charging your https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0158-Disconnect-Smartphone/dp/B00DJ5KEF4

u/phildo253 · 1 pointr/SVRiders

Mine has a battery tender plug attached to the battery. Then there is a battery tender to USB adapter plugged into that with a USB charger cord connecting that up to the phone holder. The adapter has an on/off switch, so that it doesnt kill the battery.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DJ5KEF4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vRAqDb83EH7EP

u/Jodyblueeye · 1 pointr/motorcycles

Battery Tender 081-0158 Quick Disconnect Plug with USB Charger Perfect for Charging Your iPhone, iPad, iPod, GPS, Camera or Any Smartphone or Device That be Charged via USB, One Size, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DJ5KEF4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_UZJDDbG47EERC

u/RedditWhileIWerk · 1 pointr/nexus5x

I realized I haven't even had my Tronsmart charger 6 months. Bought in mid-November, went bad about a month ago, so 4 months of service. Sheesh. I've emailed the company about a warranty replacement.

Meanwhile, I'm seriously considering the Battery Tender-brand USB port. As sold on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0158-Disconnect-Charger/dp/B00DJ5KEF4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491318333&sr=8-1&keywords=battery+tender+usb+port

I could plug that into my existing battery tender port, and run a USB A-to-C cable up to the front.

Not the most elegant solution, but should work. Takes one more point of failure out of the chain. I won't get the full 3.0A for USB C rapid charging, but a reduced charging rate is better than none.

u/djscsi · 0 pointsr/DIY

You just need a reasonably large automotive battery and an inverter.

Something like this, one of these, and a car battery. Use a deep cycle battery if you plan on using this regularly, and pick up a battery charger. Otherwise you can just plug it into the battery in your car, if that works.

u/CJM8515 · 0 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

1700 peak amps is what the booster box says. http://www.amazon.com/Clore-JNC660-Jump-N-Carry-12-Volt-Starter/dp/B000JFJLP6

Then again cold cranking amps as in a battery are measured differently I assume then regular old amps. Im no electrical engineer however.

u/BruceCLin · 0 pointsr/motorcycles

This and the clamps come with the Battery Tender I bought. I have the connector on at all time and tucked under the pillion seat. You can also get cig and usb connector for it too.

u/baconybacos · 0 pointsr/DIY

just to add to this solution - i did the same, but wired in a battery tender connector. like this: http://www.batterystuff.com/battery-cables-connectors-plugs/BTLR081-0069-6.html

Then, bought a cigarette light outlet that uses that same connector, like this: http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-8-Cigarette-Disconnect/dp/B0041CDPQO

That way, when you park your bike, you can easily connect a battery tender. Then, when you head out, plug in the cigarette lighter to enable your phone charger.

u/knobbysideup · 0 pointsr/gifs

Just pack a few recharging sticks. If you are car camping, just use one of these for the weekend:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004EIAADG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_IS7EAb2GKGMHF