Best car care products according to redditors

We found 5,373 Reddit comments discussing the best car care products. We ranked the 1,429 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Car cleaning kits
Exterior car care products
Car finishing products
Glass care products
Interior care products
Tire & wheel care products
Automotive tools & equipment
Automotive undercoatings

Top Reddit comments about Car Care:

u/upthereitstheirtime · 72 pointsr/howto

This is what my husband uses to get sap off our cars, works beautifully.
MEGUIAR'S Smooth Surface Clay Kit - Safe and Easy Car Claying for Smooth as Glass Finish - G1016

u/PublicBush · 46 pointsr/malefashionadvice

This is an awesome boot/leather shoe care kit. Good price and has everything you need.

u/olorwen · 40 pointsr/TheGirlSurvivalGuide

Oh man, I love when people ask stuff like this on Reddit. I bootblack, and have worked on countless leather boots! Frye boots are lovely.

First off, what kind finish do your Melissa Buttons have, or did they have when you got them? For instance, looking at the current line, Antiqued/Polished can take polish, Rugged should not be polished, and Suede will have an entirely different cleaning/care routine from the other two. I'll assume it's closer to the first two for the following.

For any leather that's not suede or nubuck, the first step is cleaning. You can pick up some saddle soap (Kiwi exists in your local drug store or grocery store and is totally fine) or use just about any mild soap - I regularly use diluted Dr. Bronners. You want to create a lather and scrub that into the leather, and then wipe the boot down with a damp, not wet, rag. Be sure to get all the suds off the boot, but don't soak it either. If it's really dirty, feel free to repeat this step!

Then, I would choose a conditioner. I'd actually stay away from an animal-based oil like neatsfoot oil or mink oil, as well as less-stable oils like olive oil, since those could go rancid with too much humidity. I'm a big fan of Obenauf's, which gives good deep conditioning with just a bit of product (seriously, a little goes a long way) and has a pretty neutral scent. Frye actually sells a conditioning cream of their own, which I imagine would also be fine. Pretty much anything with a beeswax base is also good. Apply with your fingers so you can really rub it into the leather - the heat from your hands will help work it in.

Finally, if your boot is the sort that would look better with some shine, I would wait a day or two to let the conditioner soak in and then apply a bit of cream polish - this will give your boots some shine, but it won't be like, patent-leather mirror shiny, which I feel would be the wrong style for Frye boots. Kiwi also sells these, but Meltonian is my go-to. With cream polish, you apply a light coat and then buff the boot with a shoe brush in light, fast strokes. You can use your fingers to apply the polish, but it'll dye your fingertips, so either wear gloves or use a rag or a polish brush. Buff the boot until it's shiny to your liking!

Don't worry too much, it's pretty hard to ruin a good pair of boots while taking care of them. They'll definitely be happier with a bit of TLC!

u/Fyrel · 33 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Like everyone's saying, they're a bad idea because they don't provide adequate lubrication and don't have the softness and physical structure that microfiber has to prevent scratches. It'll more than likely scratch the hell out of your paint.


A little more detail (heh) for how to do apartment washes:

Buy a gallon or two gallon pump sprayer and some Optimum No Rinse (ONR).


  1. Dilute the ONR to clay dilution, then use the sprayer to blast off whatever you can off the car as well as give it a presoak.

  2. Fill up your two buckets with grit guards (but not the cyclone ones) and give it a 2 bucket wash like normal. Replace the soap with Optimum No Rinse, and skip the rinsing step.

    EDIT: Use the sprayer to replace the hose, or else grab a Big Red Sponge(not generic sponges) and perform the BRS wash, or the Gary Dean method(substituting ONR for the products he uses). Thanks to /u/defected for pointing it out.

  3. Dry it off with a soft microfiber towel and you're done! No need for rinsing because of the ONR, and you can get done with less than 5 gallons of water total.

  4. Use your favorite wax, sealant or quick detailer to provide some protection!
u/MFA_Nay · 32 pointsr/malefashionadvice

For all circlejerk needs use Lexol leather conditioner. 1LTR of lubricating goodness.

u/Toxan · 27 pointsr/everymanshouldknow

I was a wildland firefighter for a few seasons, and we had to use full leather boots (any flammable/metal materials were too much of a liability when running through fire) and to take care of my stupidly expensive boots i used Obenauf's LP and it worked wonders. Made from beeswax and absorbed quite quickly it kept my leathers supple and durable. I still keep a tin of it around to massage into wear areas on my leather jackets and riding pants. Knees and elbows love this shit.

In regards to general care I wish I had more advice for you but this stuff makes leather happy, that I do know.

u/HugeAxeman · 20 pointsr/malefashionadvice

At the suggestion of multiple reddit users, I use this cleaner/conditioner and this brush, which have worked well enough for me.

u/night28 · 20 pointsr/cars

Definitely check out /r/AutoDetailing where I learned my method.

The way I do it:


  1. Optimum no rinse I use the green version (the one linked) that has wax, but there's also a blue one without wax. Either one is fine I just prefer this one.

  2. Bucket. Any clean one will do.

  3. A shit ton of microfiber towels. The Rag Company is a popular brand to go with. I just go with a pack from costco and they work fine for me.

  4. Spray bottle. 1-2.

  5. Isopropyl alcohol. Dilute it down so it's 10-20% in concentration. Put it in the spray bottle or use a cup/bucket.

  6. Nanoskin or clay. I use nanoskin so I linked that. Otherwise just get some clay. Most people in /r/autodetailing say any brand of clay is usually fine. I use nanoskin because it's a bit quicker and I have a new car so it works fine. Some people seem to say that clay gets your car a bit cleaner, but it's not worth the time trade off for me especially since my car is still new-ish so still clean.

  7. Opti-seal. I like using this because it's quick, easy and works great. Gives a good shine too.


  8. Use the rinseless method. You'll find it in the wiki of autodetailing. To prep: dilute ONR down to the recommended amount in your bucket. Fill up spray bottle. Throw microfiber towels in the bucket in the rest of the solution. Ring out the towel so it's not sopping wet, but there's still solution. Fold the microfiber towels into four.

  9. Work on only one car panel at a time. Spray the panel with the ONR. Wipe panel down firmly, but not really hard, with one side of your towel. Then turn to a different side of the towel. Do not re-use that side of your towel. Use a fresh side of the towel for every panel. Use a dry towel to wipe off that panel so there are no water streaks. Repeat until your car is washed. ONR works fine on glass too so you can just do your windows as well.

    Rinseless washing is great when your car is mildly to semi-dirty. This means if it's mostly just dust on your car this is great. Otherwise if it's caked with mud this won't work. You'll have to go somewhere to hose your car off with water first so it's not as dirty.

    Clay Bar/Nanoskin:

    Note: This is only necessary if there are actually micro-contaminants. I would do it on a new car regardless since it has been sitting on a lot. On a normal basis you only need to do when your car doesn't feel glass smooth after a wash. Usually no more than 1-2 times a year.

  10. Because you can also use ONR as your clay lube I just pour out my bottle of ONR spray back into the bucket and pour in enough ONR until it gets to the concentration needed. ONR says 2oz per gallon of water. Fill your spray bottle back up with the new concentration.

  11. Here you'll be working with small sections of a panel at a time. I suggest you just look up a youtube video on how to clay a car. Basically though you spray the section, clay/nanoskin the section until smooth, and wipe off the section with a dry towel. Repeat for your whole car. Note that you'll have to massage the clay or wash off your nanoskin every so often to get rid of those contaminants.


    After you're done with claying your paint is clean so you'll want to put wax/sealant on it to protect it. It'll make your car nice and shiny too.

    Start with an isopropyl alcohol wipe. What I do is dunk a towel in the alcohol solution and wipe down every panel and drying after it. You can also just fill another spray bottle with it and spray. This will get rid of oil/wax/sealant so the sealant goes directly on the paint. Then just apply the sealant/wax on following the instructions. With opti-seal you just spray and wipe. With some other items you'll need to apply and wait to cure and buff out any remaining wax/sealant.

    For wheels and tires I suggest you just check out the wiki on autodetailing. I just simply wipe off the tires with ONR but ONR isn't the best at getting oil. I'm too lazy though to worry about it too much as long as the wheels look clean it's fine with me.

    I'm lazy and do a rinseless wash 1-2 times (usually 1) a month. Some do it weekly. I put sealant on every 3-4 months or so. I've only clayed my current car once so far.

u/TelaTheSpy · 19 pointsr/GolfGTI


Since it's turning you into a car guy...If you have the space, or even if you can borrow the space from a friend, DIY your general maintenance. It's so easy on this car.

You can do a 15-20 minute oil change without getting under the car by getting a fluid extractor like this one:

Maintenance schedule is here:

Approved Oils are here (but just use Mobil1 0w-40, its fine and cheap):

Filter part numbers are here:

Lots of other great info/people on golfmk7 too.

Diluted Simple Green is a good all purpose cleaner you can use. Aerospace 303 Protectant can't be beat for all the plastic surfaces and dash. Use only microfibers.

You will probably want to get Gummi Pflege to lubricate your door seals. You will want to clean them with simple green or the like BEFORE you rub the Gummi on them so that you are removing the dirt and not causing the applicator of the Gummi to get gross.

For your tint, with the small triangle windows by the mirrors, if the shop you go to wants to charge you extra, put vinyl on the outside of them or remove trim to tint them, walk away, they aren't good enough. None of those things are necessary. Expect to pay $250-600 depending on the tint and the area you live in.

u/rpzxt · 17 pointsr/AutoDetailing
u/HowCanSheSkat · 17 pointsr/DIY

Just get a can of obenaufs.

Application is easy. The only heat you need is in your hands, no weekend project. I use it on a lot of leather goods to protect and extend life. This is also made of beeswax.

u/zenautodetailing · 16 pointsr/AutoDetailing

2008 BMW Z4M Coupe

I can't believe I haven't posted in so long. This job is back from February.

I performed my Maintenance Package on this 2008 BMW Z4M for a client. This client emailed me about wanting a maintenance Detail on their vehicle. I informed them that this package is usually reserved for previous clients because of the cleanliness requirements (clayed vehicle). I figured worse case scenario I'd bring everything if it's too dirty and needs more stuff.

Products Used:


u/DarknStormies · 16 pointsr/boating

More line than you think you need. Double the line. You can never have enough line.

Waterproof, powerful flashlight my recommendation

Plastic bag with a lanyard for valuables/wallets/phones/licenses. Alternatively, a pelican case.

A pair of vice grip pliers ("The wrong tool to get every job done right")

A knife, as others said. I work professionally on the water as well as boating recreationally. The Myerchin Rigging Knife is the best all purpose knife to have on board. It might be a little overkill, but when you need a line cut fifteen seconds ago, you'll be glad you have it.

A VHF handheld radio and a knowledge of what channels are monitored by the USCG (13, 16, 22A), Commercial traffic (13/16) and local police/fire departments

Spare fuses, bulbs, plugs

A Towboat US membership

A bigger, heavier anchor if you're anywhere with a decent amount of current (rivers, oceans). I'm very much a proponent of overkill when it comes to anchoring. I use an anchor way bigger than my 20' pontoon needs, and it's a tad pricey, but once I drop it and pay out the scope, I rarely worry about dragging.

Bag of cleaning supplies. Rags, paper towels, and the holy trinity of vinyl care: melamine pads, CLR Mold & Mildew, and 303 protectant

Most important item of all: A bleach bottle with the bottom cut off

u/fumblesmcdrum · 15 pointsr/BuyItForLife

head over to /r/goodyearwelt for the skinny on shoecare regimen and products. I wouldn't use Kiwi stuff myself, but that's mostly for other reasons. Lexol is a great neutral conditioner (not that you'd need this much).

u/Shower-Beers · 15 pointsr/powerwashingporn

Foam Cannon

The key that I have found after a bit of use is hot, hot, HOT water in the bottle with the soap! My kitchen has an instant boiling water faucet and that does the trick.

u/Tyrann0saurusRX · 14 pointsr/electricdaisycarnival

Careful magic erasers basically sand off a thin layer leaving leather and vinyl raw and it will get dirty again quick. After you use magic erasers to get everything off use some leather conditioner like Lexol to make it look like it just came out of the box. Then its protected and will look new for longer.

u/singsing718 · 14 pointsr/GolfGTI

I think it’s a pretty affordable way to maintain your car. I use the Optimum ONR - No Rinse Wash
And some basic supplies

  • Wash mit
  • microfiber towels for drying
  • 2 buckets of water (one for the solution the other to rinse out the mit)

    I can provide a full list of anyone interested.

    Tons of videos online to help you along.
u/throwawaydudeman666 · 14 pointsr/cars

What has happened is that the minerals from the water have etched their way into the paint. The best way to remove that is with a very light polish that will clean the paint and completely even out the surface using a very light abraisive compound. Using a machine polisher is the most effective way of doing the job.

Here's the recommended tools, they aren't too expensive:

Porter Cable 7424xp polishing kit:

Meguiar's m205 (their lightest polish):

Clay bar kit:

Wax, Meguiar's Ultimate Wax, or other kind of sealant (perhaps Chemical Guy's Jet Seal). And a decent set of microfiber towels.

Wash the car, then use the clay bar to pick up the rest of the contaminants sticking to the paint. Then use the Porter Cable DA polisher. Depending on what condition the paint is determines which pad you need. The finishing pad might be enough to handle light contaminants, but if you need to step up to the cutting pad it is safe to do so. Same for the polishing compound, if m205 isn't enough, then step up the aggressiveness to Meguiar's Ultimate Compound, which is more abraisive. Be aware, after the pad is wet and saturated with polish it won't do any more work, and you'll have to take time to clean the pad with a detergent and water, so its advisable to get a stack of Lake Country green pads for doing a large job.

Here's the polishing tutorial by Mike Phillips:

u/zachimal · 13 pointsr/teslamotors

Some say even touchless is dangerous (due to grit being recycled through). I either do two bucket or use Wash Wax All with microfiber cloths (1 to apply and 1 to dry). I keep a kit in the well in the trunk particularly for wiping bugs off.

u/eefath · 12 pointsr/malefashionadvice

And don't forget the Obenauf's! Available here.

u/JoeDaddio · 11 pointsr/Wellworn

Just in case OP isn't sure what to use, this stuff keeps my Iron Rangers kickin'.

u/HedonismBott · 11 pointsr/cars

Link for anyone looking. Can confirm this stuff is awesome. I like that it allows me to wash my car in the garage out of the sun. It can also be mixed stronger to make a quick detailer.

u/chadcf · 10 pointsr/Autos

I haven't tried it but have been considering it. Basically it means in the winter you can wash your car safely ensconced in your garage with no hose. You mix it up, wet some towels or wash mitt, scrub the car and then just dry it with microfiber towels. Also useful for apartment dwellers with no hose access. You would probably only want to use it on a dusty / slightly dirty car though.

u/loltown · 10 pointsr/BMW

Maybe try sonax wheel cleaner. I've used it before with some success but yours looks caked on really bad.

u/informareWORK · 10 pointsr/goodyearwelt

First, get a pair of cedar shoe trees to keep in the boot (you don't have to insert it all the way if you don't want)
Next, buy a horse hair shoe brush. After you wear your shoes, brush them down. If there is some stubborn dirt/grime, you can wipe them down with a damp rag, let them dry, then brush them.
Every few months, depending on how often you wear them, give them a good cleaning with Lexol cleaner, then condition them with Lexol conditioner. Let the conditioner dry, then brush vigorously.
That is literally all you need to do. No Obenaufs, no oils, nothing fancy.

Shopping list: (these go on sale pretty frequently for $8-$12)

u/Eldanon · 10 pointsr/TeslaModel3

Do you have a garage? If so, I highly recommend Wash Wax All as a waterless wash that you can do inside. That’s all I’ve been using for 3 months and loving it.

u/Mod3_freak · 10 pointsr/TeslaModel3

Ok, after four months with the car, here goes...



  • Wall Connector $500. Not necessary but I'd recommend biting the bullet before taking delivery, so you can keep the mobile charger in the car. The electrical work took 2 hours of time, at $130/hr. I highly recommend installing a dedicated 60-amp breaker and an efficient gauge wire which will give you 45 mi/hr of charge.
  • Charging Adapters $35. Car comes with the 5-15 and 14-50. I strongly recommend buying the 5-20. If you plan to charge at someone else's house on a roadtrip, ask them to send you a picture of their dryer plug. So far, I've needed the 10-30 and 14-30.
  • NEMA 5-15P to 5-20R Adapter $20. Strongly recommended in combo with Tesla's 5-20 adapter to "cheat" a 16-amp charge (33% faster charging). Must-watch this video, and must-read here, here, here, and here.

    Tesla OEM

  • Cargo Mats for Frunk & Trunk $70 & $130. Must-have some sort of trunk mat, since the trunk material is generally poor quality for heavy use.
  • Front Sunshade $75. Living in Florida, this is a must-have if you dont plan on tinting the top glass panel. The "front" is acutally the middle of the three glass panels, not the windshield.
  • Paint Repair Kit $55. Nice to have so you're ready for rock chips. So far I've had one that made it through the black paint and silver primer.


  • Aero Cosmetics Complete Car Kit $40. Highly recommended. Pricey but saves time for amazing results. Cheaper and better quality than CarGuys products. I liked it so much that I ended up buying this also.
  • Invisible Glass Spray Cleaner $4. Recommended that you have some glass cleaner that's not Windex. This brand is one of the best.
  • Wash Mitt 2-pack $16. Highly recommended compared to a wet rag.
  • Tire and Wheel Brush $8. It's important to segregate parts you use on wheels from parts you use on paint. This product is solid.
  • Grit Guard $8. Totally optional. Helps separate dirt in the bucket when cleaning. You'll see a difference in the water.


  • Tough-Pro Interior Mats $80. My opinion is that all-weather mats are a must-have. The stock mats are crappy, and all-weather mats make cleaning easier. These are cheaper than Tesla's all-weather mats. I'm happy with them but I'd buy the OEM Tesla ones if I could do it again.
  • Upgraded White LED Lights $13-$77. Must-have for the trunk. Optional for others. I replaced all 7 non-footwell. Easy install with a credit card. As a bonus, I have one left over, so PM me if you want it.
  • Kenriko Matte Wrap for Center Console $30. Must-have. Watch his install videos first. Customer service is excellent if you screw up the install like I did. The matte black matches the black leather interior perfectly. I'm sure the matte white is nice too.
  • Pet Cover for Trunk $45. I couldn't find anything better for driving my dogs, so I use this one with the back seats down, along with Tesla's rubber trunk mat. I'd say my setup prevents 90% of dog wear, and keeps any dog smell to a minimum.
  • Nomad Wireless Charger $130. Nice to have. Not available until end of November, but battery is integrated unlike the comeptitor's.
  • Rubber Cupholder Liners $25. Optional, helps with cleaning.
  • Drop Stop $20. Optional, makes life easier.
  • Air Compressor $25. Optional but recommended. Look for one with automatic shutoff.
  • Tire Plug Kit $8. If you're handy, this is a cheap solution to be ready for a flat. If you're not handy, get Tesla's tire repair kit.
  • Card Holder $5. Optional. Keep in your center console so valet has a way to hang your card key.
u/i2cube · 9 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Aerospace 303 32-oz bottle only $8.18 on Amazon

Cheaper per oz than buying the gallon jug.

EDIT: as of 7:13pm ET 5/2/2018, it seems like the price has gone back up to $14.17

u/0bviousTruth · 9 pointsr/TeslaModel3

I've posted my list before:

Car Wash Shampoo: Chemical Guys Maxi Suds II Amazon link

Quick Detailer: Chemical Guys High Gloss Spray Sealant & Quick Detailer Amazon Link

Wax/Sealant (every 6 months): Blackfire Pro Paint Protection (previously Blackfire Wet Diamond All Paint Protection) Amazon Link

Clay Bar (every 12 months): Simoniz S57 Perfect Finish Detailing Clay Amazon Link

Clear Plastics (head/tail lights): Plexus Plastic Cleaner & Protectant Amazon Link

Plastic/Vinyl/Rubber/Leather: 303 Aerospace Protectant Amazon Link

Door/Trunk/Frunk Seals: 303 (above) or Nextzett Gummi Pflege Rubber Conditioner Amazon Link

Glass: Stoner Invisible Glass Amazon Link

Wheels: Griot's Garage Wheel Cleaner Amazon Link

Tires: Aero Low Shine Rubber Care Amazon Link

u/SnitGTS · 8 pointsr/TeslaModel3

I used Wet or Waterless Car Wash Wax Kit (I did waterless) from Amazon and then CarGuys Hybrid Wax Sealant, also waterless.

I copied the links into this post, hopefully they work.

Wet or Waterless Car Wash Wax Kit 144 Ounces. Aircraft Quality for Your Car, RV, Boat, Motorcycle. The Best Wash Wax. Anywhere, Anytime, Home, Office, School, Garage, Parking Lots.

CarGuys Hybrid Wax Sealant - Most Advanced Top Coat Polish and Sealer on the Market - Infused with Liquid Carnauba for a Deep Hydrophobic Shine on All Types of Surfaces - 18 Ounce Kit

u/ThisIsPickles · 8 pointsr/AutoDetailing

What do you guys think of Mother's Gold? Specifically this package.

u/pammylorel · 8 pointsr/legaladvice

You fix this with a clay bar. It removes overspray. I oversprayed two vehicles - oops - and half an hour with a clay bar from McGuire's got it cleanly off. It's about $20. "Totalled", my effing ass.

u/G19Gen3 · 8 pointsr/Watches

I like automatic watches. I've also got a wife, child, and house to pay for. I also love to beat the shit out of my stuff because it just sort of happens.

Enter the SNK803. Automatic. Tough. Most importantly, easily replaced if I destroy it. But, I don't like the matte finish of the case. I DID have a dremel tool. Do I have an autozone? Yes I do. Do they carry mother's mag & aluminum polish? Every day. So I polished it up. Not mirror, a shiny satin finish. But now I need a quality strap. So I ordered a John Allen Woodward Alligator for $1,100...NO! What goes best with a satin finish and a beige face? Simple leather! This is a Ritche Genuine Leather NATO strap for a timex weekender. Happens to come in 18mm. And you know it's high quality leather. How? Says so. Genuine is right in the name. Only the best straps come WITH a tool to remove the pins.

Now I've got a watch that looks great, keeps great time, is a tiny mechanical wonder, and looks just as good at work as it does hiking. With a grand total of maybe $60 and an hour of work in it.

u/aywwts4 · 8 pointsr/Miata

Only hand wash, all the time, lovingly, with microfiber everything. It's going to be your new hobby, and on a car this size, takes less time than you would think to do it right.

Here is my amazon list, a lot of stuff has subscribe and save deals, everything Chemical Guys has been top notch. OR

u/FightOrFlight · 7 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I agree, drying is also my least favorite part. I strongly advise to not use a water blade. It is guaranteed to put scratches in your paint. I bought one a while ago before learning what damage it could do. Here is a picture of the damaged it caused.

If you have wax or sealant on the car it should be much easier to dry with air. You can buy a leaf blower or a metro master blaster.

Otherwise you could use a cobra guzzler or good quality microfiber with some detailing spray.

u/Baconzjews11 · 7 pointsr/AutoDetailing

If you're trying to keep costs at a minimum then I recommend ditching that kit. Have you googled the Gary dean method of washing? If not then check it out. Basically he uses one bucket and a couple of microfibers as washing media. The pros to this is that 1. You don't have to lug around two buckets. 2. No need for grit guards. 3. After im done washing my car. Since the water is clean I can actually save it for later use. Gary deans method has one downside which is that you have to invest in more microfibers. Honestly, you can buy the ONR, and bucket. Then buy about 6-20 good quality microfiber towels. The clay you have is good and you're on the right track. You can also never go wrong with collinite 845. For the towels I recommend these

u/pachewychomp · 7 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Great job! Hope you used something other than Armor All otherwise he’s going to have a nice haze on the inside of his windshield.

Aerospace 303 is a really great product that is similar to armor all but doesn’t leave the super greasy feel or oily haze.

303 (30313-CSR) UV Protectant Spray for Vinyl, Plastic, Rubber, Fiberglass, Leather & More – Dust and Dirt Repellant - Non-Toxic, Matte Finish, 32 Fl. oz.

u/thedusty5000 · 7 pointsr/teslamotors

Buy some 303 (see link) and spray on a paper towel and wipe all the rubber that looks narly. Wait a few days and do it again. I’ve made some seriously messed up rubber and plastic look new again with this stuff.

303 (30313-CSR) UV Protectant Spray for Vinyl, Plastic, Rubber, Fiberglass, Leather & More - Dust and Dirt Repellant - Non-Toxic, Matte Finish, 32 Fl. oz.

u/CephalopodAlpha · 7 pointsr/Cubers

You could try something like this. I've used this a number of times on various things and while it does require some elbow grease, I've successfully satisfied my inner anal tendencies.

Edit: I know nothing of regulations, so not sure if this will help. Thought maybe you were concerned about how it looked.

u/tjasko · 7 pointsr/GolfGTI

Here's all the stuff I use :)

u/Rheaonon · 7 pointsr/gifs

Clay bar it, go to walmart or your auto store and get this then get a decent pack of microfiber towels and a good wax. (Be prepared to spend an entire day detailing if you go this route)

u/martymcflyskateboard · 6 pointsr/motorcycles

If you want to try and treat it, there's a billion different kinds of plastic cleaner/de-clouder. It's the same stuff you use on car headlights.

Meguiar's G12310 PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish

u/40MikeMike · 6 pointsr/LifeProTips

Meguiars PlastX works like a charm. It's easier than toothpaste or any of these 5 step sandpaper-polishing compound kits, you just wipe it on, wipe it off and your headlights look great.

u/pbs094 · 6 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Rag Company Starter Kit - $30 - Includes wash mitt and other assorted towels needed to get started.

2 buckets from Home Depot - $6

2 Grit Guards - $18

Megs Gold Class Soap - $9

Megs Gold Class Carnauba - $11

einszett Cockpit Premium - $10

Stoner Invisible Glass Cleaner - $4

Chemical Guy's APC - $10

Optibond Tire Gel - $11

Grand Total of $109

There are obviously some nicer products you could get, but this is a great start for a beginner I think.

u/Diknak · 6 pointsr/TeslaModel3

I wash/wax mine every weekend with the Aero waterless solution.

u/SPARTANsui · 6 pointsr/AutoDetailing

2 buckets with grit guards are way too expensive, that's at least $40! Pair that with 2 reusable quality mitts at $30, you're looking at $70 wasted away.

SCREW THAT! Let me break out my $150 pressure washer, my $20 foam lance and $75 for 10 wash mitts It's so much better to do it my way and I save so much in product! /s

u/DarkScorpion · 6 pointsr/chevycolorado

Cargo Bull Rings for the Bed

Ratchet Straps

Mult-gift set of a grit guard, large waffle-weave micofiber towel, and 1) some 2) good 3) soap

Stubby antenna because the stock one makes the truck look like an RC car

An actual RC Colorado ZR2

u/berean17 · 6 pointsr/GNV

You can wash it yourself using one 2 gallon bucket with 2 ounces of optimum no rinse and shine and some microfiber towels. Much cheaper, easy to do in a parking lot and environmentally friendly.

u/john300dpi · 6 pointsr/Seattle

Yeah man, just get this soap:

I have that for my car.. Get a bucket (or two buckets if you want to use the two-bucket system), a microfiber mitt and a towel, and go to town out on the sidewalk. Soap is biodegradable if any run off happens.

I got the gallon bottle of soap, and it's lasted me for over 2 years and I'm only about a third of the way through it. All it takes is a cap full for every gallon or two.

u/AtomicFlx · 6 pointsr/howto

It's not very likely that it's pewter. Pewter contains lead that leaches into food and is not used much anymore.

That said, does need a polish, as in removing scratches or is it just discoloration and dirt? Polishing would require proper polishing compounds and wheels. If you want to clean it up try "Eagle one Never Dull". It's a wadding that comes in a tin and it does a surprising good job at tarnish, mineral stains, and overall cleaning without scratching. That would probably be my first stop. It is a bit stinky but works well.

u/cheez6001 · 5 pointsr/GolfGTI

I'll give my /r/AutoDetailing inspired rundown. I live in an apartment so a lot of this is extra hassle if you have access to water.

2 Bucket (apartment) Method Wash

  • 5 gallon bucket of water (w/grit guard)

  • 5 gallon bucket premixed soap and grit guard

  • Head down to the local self service wash. The kind with the foamy brush and pressure washer. (ONLY THERE FOR THE WATER)

  • I follow 2 Bucket method above but my process is a bit different since I'm paying for the water.

    • Clean wheels/wheel wells, exhaust tips, rinse, wet car and remove built up debris/bugs with remaining time

    • Clean roof, windows, hood, front, rinse

    • Clean driver side (not bottom), back, passenger side (not bottom), go back and clean bottom of sides, rinse

      • If time remaining, switch to low pressure for final rinse

  • Dry car and head home!

    My personal favorite wax is Collonite #845. I also like Griot's Best in Show since it can be found in big box stores locally.

    I would also recommend a paint protection such as Cquartz as extra protection against winters and daily driving.

    The absolute #1 rule to keeping your car swirl free, NEVER USE AUTOMATIC CAR WASHES.
u/TheCamboRambo · 5 pointsr/AutoDetailing

What is your opinion of Meguiar's products?

I've been using their shampoo and quick detailer on my white car since I got it about 4 months ago. I don't know much about auto detailing, but I planned on using those two to keep the car clean until I learn more or decide to take it to a professional detailer.

u/flaz · 5 pointsr/guns

Nevr-dull works great for this. Also available at local stores, like Autozone, etc.

u/netchemica · 5 pointsr/ar15

Not at all.

I have two lights mounted this way. The one that's a little further forward is getting it's finish blasted off, and the one that's a little further back has a small piece of the front lens sanded down. They both work perfectly well and the lenses are easy to clean with some plastic polish.


Here's the finish wear on my 7.5" SBR:

Here's the lens wear on my 11.5" SBR: I've rotated it to even it out a bit.

u/Necoariadne · 5 pointsr/scion

Instead of sanding first off, I would recommend you try something like Novus Plastic Polish. I ended up picking it up after having issues clearing up my headlights after sanding. I've used it to remove oxidation on another friend's TC with really good results.



WTB Spring

u/resettheconsol3 · 5 pointsr/fountainpens

Mask of the trim so you don't polish off the gold (or whatever) plating, and use Novus Plastic Polish

u/crystalmerchant · 5 pointsr/modelmakers

Replied to a similar post recently:

> I did this to a windshield once. Researching fix options was how I learned this technique. Use Micro-mesh sanding pads in this order:

  • 3200 grit - horizontal strokes
  • 3600 - vertical strokes
  • 4000 - horizontal
  • 6000 - vertical
  • 8000 - horizontal
  • 12000 - vertical

    > That should get it transparent, and looking close to glass. Sometimes I then polish with Novus if needed.
u/surprisinglyminty · 5 pointsr/frugalmalefashion

gone are the days of payless.

If you're walking that much, on a budget, I'd enjoy seeing how much wear and tear you'd put on a some Chippewa Boots or Chippewa Apache The vibram sole lugged or sans lugged should do wonders in regards to comfort and durability.

with the 20% off $100+ Amazon Coupon and it's a solid frugal purchase. Code SPSHOEI4 at checkout may work as well for 20% off.

Throw some sno-seal or Obenauf's and you're set for most all terrains.

u/travellingmonk · 5 pointsr/CampingGear

Most new tents do come with a waterproof coating. But over the years they can lose the coating, allowing the water to "wet" through the material. There are various ways you can reapply a coating, but Camp Dry is generally the cheapest and easiest... but from reports I've seen Atsko Silicone Guard works much better and I'll give that a try once my current can of Camp Dry runs out.

For shoes... it depends on the material. Camp Dry is silicone based and uses petroleum product as a thinner; it's OK for materials like tents, but it's not great for natural materials like leather, nubuck or suede. For good leather boots, I use Obenauf's Leather Protector. For nubuck or suede, they have water-based sprays, Nikwax has one and Uggs has their own which is what my wife uses on hers. Have to be careful with leather and suede since products can damage them and/or cause discoloration.

I use Camp Dry on tents, tarps and umbrellas, but don't bother with backpacks or any other camping gear.

u/taxcheat · 5 pointsr/Audi

Sonax Full Effect

4.4 stars from 800 scamazon reviews. Works great.

u/TheHanzou · 5 pointsr/Cartalk

This might be what you are looking for

u/Devolved1 · 5 pointsr/teslamotors

You can wash anywhere. Try this. It's the best car wash I've ever used and requires no water.

u/Shitty_Paint_Artist · 5 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Biggest difference between the SPX3000 and SPX4000 is the form factor. The SPX4000 has a sort of frame around it, making it more stable than the SPX3000. Other minor differences include two detergent tanks (on the SPX3000) versus one and the SPX4000 has two different pressure settings (1450 PSI and 2030 PSI). I personally don't really need the detergent tank and rarely use the lower pressure setting, but I suppose it is nice to have when needed. Other than those three minor differences, the units are identical (motor, fittings, etc all the same). I'd personally recommend the SPX4000 just for the more stable base.

I use this foam cannon with my SPX4000 and have no complaints. This foam cannon also gets great reviews and is slightly cheaper.

I'd also highly recommend getting the hose extension. You don't need any extra fittings to connect it and it gives you 25 more feet to work with.

u/nakedjay · 5 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Go to Amazon and order this (I like Meg's products),

u/Liquidkp · 5 pointsr/frugalmalefashion

To understand what shoe care needs: Shoe Care Guide

To clean leather products: Saddle Soap

To condition leather products: Venetian Shoe cream (VSC) or Saphir Renovateur or [Allen Edmonds Leather Lotion] (

To "protect" leather you have 2 options:

  1. "Light" protection (Not permanent) - Mink oil. (WILL DARKEN LEATHER!! - Not recommended on light leathers / dress shoes)

  2. "Heavy-duty" protection - Obenauf's or Sno Seal

    If you're walking around in snow / rain with dress shoes: Galoshes/ Overshoes

    And being more specific helps. If you live in warmer climates, Mink oil and Obenauf's are most likely unnecessary, and products like VSC and Saphir would be great.

    Avoid products from DSW and most B&M stores (unless well reviewed and recommended!) and the likes as they aren't great in quality (personal experience) - and if you're spending hundreds on shoes, consider spending a few dollars more to taking care of them goes far.
u/jxhenson91 · 5 pointsr/SVRiders


  1. wash bike from to to bottom, after that use a clay bar on the paint! cant stress that enough. It removes all the embedded contaminants that the wash doesn't remove.

  2. grab your buffing wheel (witch I used) or apply by hand some compound this is what I used use medium pressure with this, its super easy to put on and off. Just follow the instructions.

  3. after your done compounding the paint apply a polish, let it dry to a haze and wipe off. I used something like this

  4. and final step, apply your wax to protect all your hard work, same application as the polish

  5. also clay bar your wheels if they have a clear coat on them then apply a wax, don't get too crazy on them, but get the protection on so they stay shiny

  6. in between washings/ waxings use a quick detail spray

    also see r/AutoDetailing for the noob questions/ info. Its a huge help. so is Youtube! hope that points you in the right direction!
u/jwatzman · 5 pointsr/AutoDetailing

1.) Washed the entire car using a large bucket of water and Meguiar's Gold Class Wash Shampoo with a large grout sponge.

2.) Rinsed the car with clean water from a hose and spray nozzle.

3.) Dried the car using The Supreme Guzzler Waffle Weave by Cobra

4.) Clayed the car using Meguiar's Smooth Surface Clay Kit

5.) Buffed the car with a microfiber towel as I went over it with the clay.

6.) Waxed the car using a dual action polisher and Meguiar's NXT Generation Tech Wax 2.0

7.) Buffed again with a microfiber towel as I went over each panel.

u/tman5890 · 5 pointsr/frugalmalefashion

That seems to be the 4oz version. It's a better deal to get this one

u/shootsfilmwithbullet · 5 pointsr/goodyearwelt

The cost of cleaning and conditioning isn't really dependent on the specific shoe. Given how cheap the products used are in bulk, you're basically paying for his time.

25 bucks will get you this which should be enough to last you basically forever, and 10 bucks will get you this which is the same thing in smaller quantities.

u/cf2121 · 5 pointsr/AutoDetailing

How To: Decontaminate your paint & wheels

  1. Gather your supplies. I have used a combination of a paint safe iron dissolving product, a clay bar, and a Nanoskin Sponge (picture 1)
  2. WARNING: If you are using an iron dissolving product, DO NOT have your car parked in the sun. Remember the flash point with chemicals? You do not want something strong enough to dissolve metal particles drying on your paint. Liberally spray the product on your paint, focus on the areas around the wheels as obviously kick up crap from the roads (picture 2).
  3. You should see a color change happening just as if you had sprayed the product on your wheels. Note: Because of the dark color of my car, I couldn’t get the camera to capture any color change efficiently. Dwell time shouldn’t really last longer than 5 minutes or so.
  4. Hose down the car. Yes, if you’re doing this step you’ll have to dry the car again. But you know how to do it now, so it shouldn’t be too bad!
  5. I like to clay bar the wheels next. I’m using an old piece of clay, and seeing as my wheels are pretty beat up already, I don’t really care. However, a new(er) piece of clay is always recommended. Examine the wheels. See any bits of tar or brake dust that didn’t come off from washing? (picture 4)
  6. Lube up the wheels using the product of your choice. For the wheels, I am using QD strength ONR. One the paint, I like to use the leftover soap from the wash bucket during the 2 bucket wash. Note: water is NOT an adequate lube for clay. Using back and forth motions, not circles, rub the clay on the wheels using medium pressure (picture 5).
  7. Examine to see if the problem area has been resolved (picture 6).
  8. Continue onto the rest of the wheels (picture 7).
  9. When clay becomes too dirty, fold and kneed it up until you can longer see the dirt accumulated (picture 8).
  10. When you can longer find a clean side, it is time to toss the clay (picture 9).
  11. If you drop clay, it’s time to toss it. This sucks, especially when you have just broken off a new piece to use. Clay picks up anything it touches, dropping it on the ground renders it useless (picture 10).
  12. NanoSkin products act the same way as clay. However, they require no refolding, last longer, and if you drop them you can just wash them off. The only real downside is that they tend to be a little more expensive, but are totally worth it in my experience. The sponge (which I am using) is the cheapest option. They also offer mitts, towels, and pads for a DA.
  13. Dunk the sponge in the wash bucket (picture 13).
  14. Using back and forth and up and down motions, ‘clay’ the paint (picture 14). Again, use medium pressure. No need to ‘grind’ the sponge into the paint. Note: when using soap as clay lube, I like to hose down the panel first again to give the soap extra lubrication. I know I know, you just hosed down the car and dried it again. It really isn’t so bad. It seems like a lot of steps backward, but trust me, you’re moving forward!
  15. Oh no! You dropped your sponge! (picture 15)
  16. No worries, hose it off and you’re good! (picture 16)
  17. I like to work in half panels at a time, and remember to start from the roof down. This way when you rinse off the car again, you’re working from the top down and not going back and forth.
  18. I will be tackling window decontamination in the Sealing ‘How to’.
    Note: When using a clay bar and/or sponge, you will feel the contaminants being picked up. When running over the paint or wheels, you’ll feel little bumps. Keep the clay/sponge motion going and the bumps should go away. It’ll start to feel smooth. To be 100% sure you’ve gotten everything up, place your hand in a plastic sandwich baggy and run your hand over the paint. Because of the ‘finer’ surface area of the bag, you’ll feel what you missed. Here is a video of Mike Phillips explaining it.

    Congrats! Your car should be contaminant free and ready to be polished!

    Dodo Juice Ferrous Dueller

    The Mother's & Meguiar's Clay Bar Kits can be found over the counter for about $15-20.

    NanoSkin Fine Grade Sponge

    Optimum No Rinse

    CG Citrus Wash & Gloss
u/greymda · 5 pointsr/AutoDetailing

i use Nanoskin (AS-019) AutoScrub Fine Grade Sponge and as lube some shampoo diluted in water. does an amazing job and quite quick!

u/foramen_magnum · 5 pointsr/TeslaLounge
  1. Hand wash with a quality microfiber mitt using Optimum No Rinse Wash.

  2. Dry with quality microfiber towels using a small amount of Opti-Seal as a drying aid. (I cheat and use an absorber shammy instead of microfiber towels, but technically they can cause microabrasions.)

  3. Clean your wheels and shine tires however you want.

    I don't recommend a car wash at all, but do not use a car wash that touches the car. I summarized so just ask if you want more details.
u/AB3DC · 5 pointsr/teslamotors

Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine -

And here is a how to video -

u/lanmansa · 5 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Ditch the Shamois and get a microfiber drying towel, like a waffle weave texture. Huge difference.

For hard water, try adding a cap full of Optimum No Rinse Wash and Shine to your bucket of soap. If helps soften the water.

When you dry, add a single spray of a quick detailer or instant wax to each panel, and use that as a drying aid. Helps a lot.

I'd also recommend to dry as much as you can first with an air compressor or leaf blower, just remove as much water as possible first before you get it with a towel.

u/seoulstyle · 5 pointsr/teslamotors
u/Buddhalite · 5 pointsr/cars

Check out Optimum No Rinse. As long as you don't have caked on dirt it'll really serve you well with keeping the exterior clean.

u/poopfeast89 · 5 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I've never heard of ONR, is this the kind of thing you use?

Would you recommend it? Thanks!

u/neildmaster · 5 pointsr/Detailing

OK, you have a ton of questions in there, let's try to sort it out.

First off, you need to assess the paint, and not just assume you need to do all the steps you mentioned (and some you didn't mention). If the car is new, you probably won't need to clay it, as the paint is probably 'clean'. Here is how you figure out if it is clean. After it is washed, i.e. all of the loose, surface dirt is gone, simply gently rub the paint, especially on a horizontal surface like the hood. You can do this while it is wet. How does it feel? Clean paint feels soft and smooth and makes no noise when you rub it. Dirty paint feels rough, hard and makes a 'swishing' sound when you rub it. If you hear anything, it needs to be clayed. Most clays are very similar, so there is very little difference in any of them. They all do the same job about the same. Also, as to your twice a year question, it all depends on the condition of your paint. I wash my car often, so stuff doesn't get embedded in it, so I don't need to clay my car (its been over a year).

You see, paint is like skin. It has pores, and when it gets dirty and is not washed, contaminants (dirt, fallout, metallic flakes, etc) clog the pores and it loses its shine and that's when it needs to be clayed. The clay removes those embedded contaminants.

As for the wash: any good car wash soap will do. It's not rocket science. As long as it says car wash, you're good. ONR is a good alternative once you have protected the paint and it needs a very light wash, or it doesn't have much dirt or grime on it, but you want it cleaned. It is a whole process to clean your car via ONR, but get some, its good stuff. It is also good for interiors, windows, lube for claying your paint, etc. It is concentrated, so you can dilute it how you want.

Wax vs. sealant. Yes, this is confusing. To simplify: sealant is just man made wax. Wax is good stuff, but since it is a natural product (secreted by Brazilian Palm trees), it doesn't last very long (two months is great for wax to still be effective). Sealant simply does the same thing as wax, but can give you up to 8-9 months of UV protection, water beading, etc.

As for layering protection on, it's not really worth it, IMO. Is it worth it to wear two condoms? Not really. Just use the best stuff you have (best as in easiest to lay on, take off and looks good, and lasts a long time) which is personal preference. To continue, if you are going to layer, you want to put the longest lasting product on first. it would't make sense to put on a spray wax that will last a couple weeks, then sealant on top of it. The sealant is bonding with the spray wax, not the paint itself, so it will come right off. How often? As often as you want to. When it doesn't seem like you have the protection, cover it back up. Should you strip old stuff off? Only if you want to, but most products enjoy layering on top of itself (i.e. a couple of applications of the same stuff a few months apart).

Do you need a pressure washer/foam cannon, etc? Not necessary, (again this is just my opinion, but I do this for a living) but if you want to spring for it, a pressure washer makes cleaning easier. I think foam cannons are a waste of time and money. They're fun and look cool, but don't do much that a good, proper pressure washing couldn't do. To answer your last question, No, you still need to do a contact wash. A protected car should only require a light wash with suds and MF towel or mitt or whatever. If you just rinse, foam and rinse, you'll be disappointed, because it will still have dirt on it.

I'm happy to share more of my opinions, on processes, products or whatever. Answering questions is what this sub is for!


u/Mxbzz · 5 pointsr/teslamotors

Use a cleaner that works for multiple fabrics, and not specifically for leather. Example: Car Guys has a multi-purpose cleaner that is highly rated. At $17 I feel it's a little expensive, but might be worth picking up when it goes on sale:

Same with the "conditioner", I use a multipurpose spray which gives the seats an additional layer, but also makes the seats sound squeaky:

u/soupychan · 4 pointsr/Porsche

First, you should check /r/autodetailing

There's lots of options and everyone will have their favorites based on experience. One thing's for sure though, stop wiping down with ONLY water as that is probably making things worse other than getting some dirt and grime off. It makes the leather dry and prone to even more cracks. You need some sort of leather-specific PH-balanced cleaner and a conditioner to follow it.

My favorite value option that's easily sourced from your local Advance Auto/AutoZone is Lexol. Amazon has a kit that's pretty cheap for you to see if you like the results:

Gliptone is also another well-liked value option:

There are other higher end brands like Leatherique and Leather Master, but the results just didn't feel it was worth the price difference.

As for the dashboard, avoid junk like Armor All. Go with something like Einszett Cockpit Premium:

u/djromaric · 4 pointsr/malefashionadvice

I did not take care of mine for over a year so the whole boot was scuffed. Here is what I did. First, Lexol Cleaner, then Lexol Conditioner 4 times in 2 days. Once nice and softer again, I just did a quick polish with Kiwi Tan, that one doesn't darken and matches the rest of the boot. They look brand new again and you can't see where the scuffs were located.

u/BAonReddit · 4 pointsr/malefashionadvice

I rather spend around $12 for a real leather conditioner + cleaner than risk my shoes/boots with uncertainty.

But to answer yours; yes, it will be a poor decision.

u/jauntworthy · 4 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I've always struggled to keep my vehicles clean because 1) they were always old, 2) I've lived in condos, 3) car washes did a terrible job / detailers charged too much, and 4) I didn't realize you could do all of this yourself pretty effectively.

When I bought a new truck at the beginnging of the year, I randomly stumbled upon an Ammo NYC video and the nerd / clean-freak was intrigued. A couple dozen videos later, and I was hooked. Shout out to Larry for your passion - thank you for the insane amount of information on your channel. (Wish I could afford all of your products, or that you had some of them on Amazon!).

Living in a condo, I have to swing by my local coin wash and take up a bay with a few buckets during off-peak hours, but I've gotten it down to 1.5 hours and looking like this every time.

I've only been doing this for a few months, but thought I'd share the products I've researched and selected based on reviews and costs. Hope this helps save someone time!


  • McGuire-Nicholas 22015 15-Inch Collapsible Tote - - I love this thing. Handle is sturdy and holds every chemical I need.
  • Relentless Drive Ultimate Car Wash Mitt - - Great mitt and would strongly recommend it. I've only used the mitt for a few washes so I can't comment on durability, but if I had to guess I think it's going to hold up. My only complaint is that it's so voluminous that it's difficult to rinse / wring out the dirt when using the two-bucket method. Not a big enough problem to look for another mitt, though.


  • Chemical Guys ACC_101 Detailing Bucket Kit - - a good starter bucket, but it's worth calling out how much of this stuff is BS marketing: the bucket is only 4 gallons, the gamma lid can be bought for cheaper on amazon, the citrus gloss is OK, and the wash mitt is worthless / isn't going to hold up. I barely used the mitt once and fuzz falls off constantly when handling.
  • Adam's Grit Guard Wash Bucket with Lid - - Better value than chemical guys, but the bucket is just a regular bucket ($4 at Home Depot) and the gamma lid can be purchased for $10-15 on Amazon. I'm not convinced grit guards are worth it, but more on that later.
  • Grit Guard Washboard Bucket Insert - - the product is well made and does what it's intended to do, but I'm skeptical of its value. Yes, rubbing your mitt on a washboard would intuitively get dirt to fall off, but is it actually more effective than using your hands (which you do anyway to wring out the mitt)? And I'm not buying that the fins "trap dirt." Anybody who looks at their rinse bucket while washing wheels for example can plainly see the water's black. Dirt's floating everywhere.


  • Mothers 08216 California Gold Instant Detailer - - this stuff has done a pretty good job for quick wipe-downs, spot cleans, etc.
  • Griot's Garage 11108 Window Cleaner - - The spray bottle itself is awesome and works really well. The solution also seems to work well, though I've only ever used it after washing the truck and so I'm not sure how much it helps.
  • Meguiar's G3626 Ultimate Waterless Wash & Wax - - I used this a few times with the microfiber directional pass method after some serious pollen clouds invaded Austin, and it worked surprisingly well. Ran through 3-4 towels to do my entire truck, then spot-cleaned with an instant detailer. Even though wheel wells and a few pieces were still dirty, it was a huge improvement without the hassle of a full wash. Will definitely be using this as my in-between wash method.
  • Chemical Guys V7 High Gloss Spray Sealant and Quick Detailer - - I'm new to detailing, but this stuff is probably the most impressive chemical of everything I've used. The combination of a damp microfiber + V7 produces the result everyone thinks about when they think about car washes: a clean car with no streaks or water spots. Wringing out my microfiber towel can get old, but the end result is just awesome.
  • Chemical Guys Citrus Wash and Gloss - - I don't have the luxury of a frother right now, but from simply adding some in a bucket and using a power washer to generate suds, I get decent foam and the soap seems to work well. That said, it's not earth-shattering and I will probably try other washes when I run out.


  • Mothers 06512 All-In-One Leather Care - - This stuff works great and smells even better.


  • Adam's Deep Wheel Cleaner - - The spray bottle is terribly difficult to press and I always end up using way more than I want. I'm not confident I need to use this instead of just using soap. Maybe it's for exceptionally dirty cars or those with tons of brake dust, but I'm rarely in either camp so I may not buy some more after I run out.
  • Adam's Hex-Grip Pro Tire Dressing Applicator - - Works well and easy to handle.
  • Mothers Wheel Brush - - really like how easy this is to handle and how soft the bristles are. Highly recommended.
  • Optimum Opti-Bond Tire Gel - - This is a good low-gloss gel, though I need to try additional coats to see if I can get those tire shinier.
  • ABN Car Wheel Rim Cleaning 3-Piece Kit - - Yes the big woolie has good reach and allows you to clean the inside of your rims effectively, but the handle is annoyingly difficult to hold after it becomes saturated / heavy to hold.


  • Chemical Guys Professional Grade Premium Microfiber Towels, Gold - - these things are outsidanding and are a great value. Definitely watch Larry's video on microfiber care, which fixed all of my annoyances with microfibers accruing fuzz in the dryer.
  • THE RAG COMPANY EAGLE EDGELESS 500 Korean 70/30 Super Plush 500gsm Microfiber Detailing Towels - - very high plush and high quality, though I end up using the Chemical Guys towels more often and save these for random spot details. Probably not ideal.
  • THE RAG COMPANY Premium Window, Glass, Mirror & Chrome Korean 70/30 Microfiber - - work great for cleaning windows and mirrors.
  • Nylon Laundry Bag - - I have one bag for clean and one for dirty. Has done a great job of keeping dust off the rags during storage.
u/DeadFable · 4 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Nanoskin Fine Grade Sponge Sorry for long link on mobile. I only use these now. I do think you need to use more lube with these then normal clay but it last longer. If you drop it just rinse it thoroughly and ready to go again.

u/JamesFuckinLahey · 4 pointsr/ames

I use the two bucket method and Optimum No-Rinse(ONR). It does a fantastic job, doesn't scratch, doesn't pull the wax off.

Of course, if your car is really gritty make sure to go and power-wash it at Lynn's first. Just go in, and do a quick and dirty there for $5 and then finish up at home with ONR and take your time.

Make sure you have a grit guard installed in your rinse bucket and use a good quality wash mitt and plenty of microfiber towels.

u/jamblaell · 4 pointsr/prius

Optimum No Rinse is highly recommended. Use 4 capfuls in about 4 gallons of water in a 5 gallon bucket, wash mitt, and drying towels. Takes about 15-30 minutes to do an average sized car.

u/kachaffeous · 4 pointsr/teslamotors

Been going back and forth on the coating. I did watch some youtube before started and did the two bucket method. From my research it looks like if you just wax it every 3-4 months it should have near the same protection as ceramic. I do have the stuff to diy cermaic coating saved in my Amazon cart though. Was thinking about giving it a go.

Used this wash and wax from Amazon.

u/DiachronicShear · 4 pointsr/TeslaLounge

I have this, which you can use with this stuff or any other ONR product really and keep them with you. Just spray it on, let sit for a few seconds, and use the bug sponge to wipe off. Should come off easy.

u/darkmatter-matters · 4 pointsr/BMW

I use the more expensive version of this, looks the same and reviews say it performs well. Just need a pressure washer and the correct soap.

u/OPZX2 · 4 pointsr/GolfGTI

Mine were just as bad and used this stuff.

Takes about 10 minutes and I was able to get my shinny back

u/neuromonkey · 4 pointsr/fitbit

There are a few brands of plastic polish on the market. Another thing that people recommend is a vigorous rubbing with toothpaste.

u/JayVeeDi · 4 pointsr/frugalmalefashion

I recently got these boots two weeks ago. I have to say after a brief break-in period of a few days after treating them with Obenauf's and leather lotion they are comfy and the leather has softened well. I've compared the build and leather to my brother's Wolverine 1000 Mile Boots and they are similar enough that you should have one or the other, not both (unless you need another color boot of course). I was deciding between the lighter brown and the cordovan, the reddish brown of the latter looks great and didn't darken or alter after leather treatment.

The sole is by Vibram and I haven't had any slipping issues where I live in NorCal. Replacement of the sole after wear shouldn't be too hard for a cobbler and I plan on caring for these boots for a lifetime.

Sizing wise, I sized a whole size down. I usually wear a 9.5D with my Nike Free Run 2, so I went down to 8.5D. Perfect fit.

I say go for it and pull the trigger, the 30% discount makes the boots worth to try out and return if not satisfied.

If I'm able to ill post pics of them.

EDIT: Had work, took pics before leaving.

Here you go.

u/NiceBootyGuurrrrlll · 4 pointsr/TheBrewery

Though I don't use leather boots at the brewery, I'm a huge boot nerd.

One of the biggest rules of leather boot care is letting your boots rest for at least 24 hours before wearing again. This gives time for all the moisture to be wicked away, especially from accumulated sweat while working. Cedar shoe trees are also your best friend, and will help even more with taking away moisture (plus they smell awesome). Put them in immediately after use!

As for leather care itself, coconut oil or Obenauf's oil are both excellent. Brush your boots with shoe brush, or wipe them down with a damp warm cotton cloth. Let dry, then apply the oil to the leather with your fingers, working the it in naturally with the warmth from your body (you'll feel sexy). Let the boots dry overnight, and then they'll be good to go! Coconut oil or Obenauf's will darken the leather a bit, so be aware of that.

I would shoot for twice a month for conditioning - really depends on how hard you work your boots.

Hope that helps!

u/Drew_W · 4 pointsr/malefashionadvice

Don't make it too complicated.

  1. Take a brush to get rid of most of the dirt on them.
  2. Take a wet rag and rub the boots down (this should get rid of the paint stains, if not be more abrasive with the rag)
  3. (Optional, but suggested) Apply some sort of leather conditioner / protector (ex.Mink Oil Or Obenhaufs Leather Protector)
  4. Use a Mr.Clean Magic Eraser (or similar) to clean the wedge sole.

    Some of the deeper scuffs may not go away completely, but they add character to the boot.
u/wags_01 · 4 pointsr/knifeclub

I like Obenauf's, personally.

u/Rellikx · 4 pointsr/Volkswagen

huh, my mk6 has no rattles but my previous ford rattled like a motherfucker.

Everything rattled quite a bit until I applied this stuff to the door frames as per a recommendation on the mk6 forums. That shit was literally like magic

u/fr0mastaj · 4 pointsr/Cartalk

Is it literally falling apart or just in dry/rough shape? If the latter, try this first:

Read the reviews :)

u/SoaDMTGguy · 4 pointsr/E90

These are the two I see recommended the most:

Gummi Pflege


You can also use silicone lube if you don’t have the above (that’s what I did last time I did mine). For cleaning, warm water and dish soap, light wipe with a clutch, make sure to get all the rubber damp.

u/Braddish · 4 pointsr/goodyearwelt

Very Important:

  • Horsehair Brush
  • Some sort of cleaner (Lexol)
  • Some sort of conditioner (Lexol, Bick4)


  • Buffing Rag - could also just use old socks or cotton shirts. Make sure whatever you use is 100% cotton since nylon can scratch
  • Pigmented Cream Polish - Can be used to recolor damaged spots and build a patina. WILL DARKEN YOUR SHOES.
  • Cuir Gras - My preferred conditioner for greasy leather (like CXL). Not necessary unless you want to spend the extra money over Lexol.

    Be sure to review the Leather Care section in the wiki to get a good overview of products and care techniques.
u/MBAH2017 · 4 pointsr/Guitar

So, first I have to say, that's the proper color for a guitar in that finish.

That said, it's your guitar, you can do with it as you see fit. It's yellowed because the outermost layer of the polyurethane finish it's coated with is yellowed. Your best best would be something like this to polish up and remove the yellowing from that outmost layer.

Definitely check in an inconspicuous area first though, it's not exactly a standardized process.

u/coinguy1337 · 4 pointsr/coins

I use Meguiars Plastx to polish the scratches off slabbed coins. It's actually marketed for plastic headlights. Take a towel, but a nice dab on it, and work it in pretty hard. Doing it hard might actually leave VERY tiny hairline scratches as you get the bigger stuff out - But this only really happens with NGC plastic. Then, to get any other little scratches out from using hard pressure, put more on, a generous amount, and do a circular motion very softly then wipe the stuff off. Some deep scratches might take some time, lighter scratches take 20 seconds.

Here's the stuff.

I've made crazy scratched slabs look virtually brand new.

there's also slab-renew. Never tried it but its much more expensive.

u/ohshititsdatboiii · 4 pointsr/saab
u/Irenarch · 4 pointsr/goodyearwelt

>I hear mink oil is of dubious quality and in general organic products cause the leather to more quickly deteroriate.

Mink oil and Obenauf's etc. are made for very harsh conditions - unless you're wading through the countryside, it's like putting on a scuba suit when there's a light drizzle outside. If you live in a city, you're fine. Said products will not cause a 'quick' deterioration - it's over a long period of time. They will also cause the leather to darken and lose some of its depth of color.

>What's the deal with cleaning? I'm leaning toward Saddle Soap to clean my boots. How effective is, say, using just a boot brush, regular soap, and wet paper towels to clean dirt from your boots? Can you use a clean t-shirt rag to clean?

Saddle soap dries out leather - it's soap, after all. It's overkill for regular boot care. A damp cloth or rag works fine for cleaning regular messes.

>I'm leaning toward using regular polish and no waterproofers or sealant. Do boots need polish or just shoes? Does polish protect at all? Does the polish process clean at all? I'm assumming you match the polish color to your leather. How important is this match--do you have multiple brown polishes or just one?

Waterproofers and sealant are unnecessary - leather is naturally water resistant and needs to breathe. If they get wet, dry them with a cloth then put in your cedar shoe trees (or crumpled newspaper) to absorb excess moisture. Polish isn't really essential on workboots like those Apaches (since the aesthetic is based around getting them scuffed and beaten up), but it can be used to hide scuffmarks if you want to keep them pristine (IMO missing the point). Polishing doesn't clean by itself, and will probably trap stuff underneath. The importance of the match depends on how specific you are about the boot's color. I don't remember if the Apaches are a pull-up leather, but on boots made of pull-up leather you can get rid of scuffs simply by rubbing them until they disappear.

>I am planning to buy unvarnished cedar trees and a boot brush for cleaning, as they appear to be necessary for the life of the boots. Do you have any suggestions? It seems like most are the same in quality.

Just buy split-toe shoe trees made of actual cedar (instead of plastic etc.). As long as they're in the right size, you're fine.

It appears that you're really overthinking this. Leather is naturally very strong and water-resistant, and doesn't need to be babied with a massive variety of products - at least for a workboot like the Chippewa Apache (high-end dress shoes may require more finesse).

Here's what I do:

  1. Put cedar shoe trees into the boots when they are not in use.

  2. Every couple days, wipe down the boots with a damp cloth or brush to get rid of accumulated crap.

  3. Every ~3 months, take out the laces, clean the boots thoroughly with a damp cloth, then clean the welt with a wet Q-tip. Wait for an hour (until they dry), then condition with Lexol and an old t-shirt. Wait for four hours, then re-lace them. Ready to wear. Bam.
u/patrick_byr · 4 pointsr/goodyearwelt

Lexol leather cleaner (orange bottle) is available at auto parts stores, walmart, amazon-Lexol Cleaner

Once its clean, it wouldn't hurt to have some conditioner around. There are many but lexol's a good product. Lexol Conditioner brown bottle.

u/DTK101 · 4 pointsr/Audi

Not op but I’d guess mothers mag and aluminum polish. Stuff is awesome

Mothers 05101 Mag & Aluminum Polish - 10 oz

u/sugiyama · 4 pointsr/knives

FWIW: I bought one of these and I love it. You could establish a new edge on the most coarse stone, and refine it with the other two. As an alternative to finer stones, use automotive-grade sandpapers to get it up to 2500-3000 grit. For putting the final edge on it, I have a strop made from an old leather belt that I cover with a small amount of Mother's Mag. Honestly, though, you could stop at the fine stone on that tri-hone and be all set.

Hope this helps!

u/KeepEmCrossed · 4 pointsr/Watches

Followed this tutorial.

Got everything from amazon. Went with this dremel since it came with the polish wheels. This add-on item polish.
And these for safety. (And to meet the minimum for the add-on item.)

With 0 dremel experience, it was still easy. Didn't even mess up the glass, but I'd already upgraded mine to sapphire so I can only speak for that.

u/orlheadlights · 4 pointsr/AutoDetailing
u/creep_nu · 4 pointsr/subaru

honestly, i wouldn't get either of those. yeah they're both good, but you really don't need all of that.

what i use:

griot's garage clay

meguairs soap

mothers cleaner wax

nu finish

and of course a (or a couple) 5 gallon buckets with a grit guard , which is completely not necessary, but highly recommended by professional detailers. i don't use one, and my car comes out fine. and a good, soft wash mitt. either a good sponge or a wheel brush for your wheels would be needed as well.

my once a year routine is as follows:

wash, claybar, nu polish, cleaner wax

usually wash every 2 weeks or so, and rewax every 6 weeks or so. if i did a bunch of off roading and the paint is gritty i'll clay as needed, but usually it's once a year.

also head over to /r/autodetailing for a lot of tips. beware though that they use a lot of very high end products, and circle jerk over polishing and getting perfect reflections. if all you're looking to do is keeping your paint in good condition, then what i do is just fine. if you're interested in keeping your paint better than factory, follow them.

u/BurntPaper · 3 pointsr/JeepRenegade

Thanks! I started off with Mother's California Gold clay bar and waxed with Meguiers Ultimate Liquid Wax.

Honestly I'm not sure when the scratches came out. I didn't notice them after I used the clay bar, but I didn't think to actually look for them. Definitely not visible after the wax, though!

u/theunseeingeye · 3 pointsr/askcarguys

Is this what you're referring to by clay bar?

I'll give the Windex/409 a shot first, since I have that lying around.

Thanks for the advice!

u/birddogging12 · 3 pointsr/GoodValue

There are lots of ways to clean the boots, using saddle soap is probably your best bet. Obenauf's is your best bet for protecting them.

u/crossdog · 3 pointsr/BuyItForLife

I would recommend this; over mink oil. I use this in my leather restoration kit.

u/NoRespectRedditor · 3 pointsr/malefashionadvice

You could darken them using Obenauf LP. Maybe see if anybody else has tried it on the brick colour.

u/doug_not_funny · 3 pointsr/BuyItForLife

This is where I received all of my info:

I use this to condition and this to waterproof. Both work great.

u/uselessjd · 3 pointsr/BuyItForLife

Obenaufs is what I use on both pair of my leather boots (Red Wing Iron Rangers and my upland field boots [that see way more beating]). Does a great job for both. I put it on the Iron Rangers right when I got them and apply it semi-regularly.

edit: This stuff. No experience with the Dr. Marten branded stuff, but Obenaufs has been great.

u/ARCHA1C · 3 pointsr/moto360

If you sweat a lot with your watch on, something like Obenauf's LP will help condition and protect.

I used it on my Moto Cognac band, and it is much more supple now.

  • Before
  • After

    From the Obenauf's product description:

  • Repels acids, petroleum, salt, and chemicals
  • Restores dried leather to a soft and supple condition and protects it from further damage
  • Contains no harmful silicones, petroleums, solvents, or neatsfoot
u/MyCatsNameIsBernie · 3 pointsr/goodyearwelt

No! The conditioner and Mink Oil included in the Basic Care are not made for the smooth leather of Beckmans. Here's what you need:

  1. horsehair brush
  2. Lexol conditioner
  3. Burgundy shoe cream to touch up scuffs; I use Meltonian
  4. Rags for cleaning, applying conditioner and shoe cream, and polishing
u/von_sip · 3 pointsr/malefashionadvice

Yeah that’s it. I’ve only ever bought it from Amazon.

u/Carlton_Honeycomb · 3 pointsr/Wellworn

Lexol also works just fine

u/Iophobic · 3 pointsr/femalefashionadvice

I rub my leather goods with leather conditioner (specifically Lexol) every once in a while so that they stay supple and don't crack/dull

u/trainspotting2 · 3 pointsr/cars

Try something that's made to be used on paint, like Stoner Tarminator, or a clay bar kit before you go to gasoline. Start gentle, use the harsh stuff only as a last resort.

u/oc412 · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I go to swap meets here in SoCal and find these [Meguiars Clay Bar Kits] ( all the time. I usually pay $5-$8 depending on the vendor. Right now on Amazon its CHEAP for $13.58. The lowest price since 2011 on Amazon according to CCC. There are two clay bars in each package. I use a nanoskin sponge but have these laying around and buy them any chance I get. They are always brand new and never used. They normally have some sort of return labels taped to them so I am not sure where they come from. I've never asked. You can also look into buying in bulk from [ali express] (,searchweb201602_1_10017_10021_507_10022_10020_10009_401_10008_10018_10019_101,searchweb201603_2&btsid=3e5d4cc5-bc83-48b4-96c3-ff72028dd53c) from china.

u/micros101 · 3 pointsr/Watches

I used a dremel and this stuff:

Mothers 05101 Mag & Aluminum...

Mother’s. All I did was use the soft polish attachment and go to town on the SS. It worked great on my skx that o had gouged trying to remove the bezel with the wrong tool. It took awhile, but t worked great.

u/jimbojones321 · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing

You can wash with soap and water, APC, or even aluminum-safe wheel cleaner if its really funky. When you clean it, use a pressure washer/compressed air to blow out the fins. If there is anything built up it will reduce the performance of the intercooler.

This video is a pretty good guide on polishing bare aluminum to a mirror finish. It is time consuming and messy, but you will get good results. If there aren't any deep scratches, I usually wetsand with 400, 800, 1000; sometimes finishing with #0000 steel wool before moving to the rouges. Instead of a compound at the end, I typically use something like mothers mag and aluminum polish, and finish with a coat of wax.

u/rivingtonthe3rd · 3 pointsr/Ducati

0000 steel wool and mothers polish. I just cleaned my 749 Termignoni's and the 0000 steel wool didn't harm them a bit. Give it a nice soap and water clean afterward. Mothers has a residue but man does it shine nice!

u/Triple-vision · 3 pointsr/SWORDS
u/JoeyOhhh · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing

My parents' neighbor has been watching as I borrow Mom and Dad's hose and he recently asked if I could take on his car and I was happy to oblige! Overall, the exterior was in okay shape - couple bugs, a few spots of tree sap and bird poo, as well as just a good amount of dirt and mud tucked in some spaces. I gave the car a two bucket wash, clay, Iron X treatment, Iron X, clay and topped it off with a sealant. Thanks for pointing out that I listed my procedure out of order, /u/Deadfable! Here's the deets:

Products Used:

u/Gardamis · 3 pointsr/scion

I'm not an expert by any means, but from /r/AutoDetailing I ended up getting this:

I just rinse the car down, mix that together in a bucket, use a microfiber mitt to apply it, then rinse it off and dry with a microfiber towel. I'm sure there are better/more specific products you could buy, though. Check /r/AutoDetailing for more.

u/jkxs · 3 pointsr/SubaruForester

I apologize in advance for this long post. None of these are "must gets", but they are what I got for my 2016 Premium forester. I'm posting this for my own future reference as well as to help some people who are wondering what accessories might be good for their new forester. I highly recommend ordering from Jackie from Annapolis Subaru @ 443-837-1422 as she can get you some good prices on the subaru accessories as well as WeatherTech products! I saved on WeatherTech shipping costs (~$20) by ordering through Jackie and the warranty is the same as if I had bought them through their website.

Please note that some of these accessory links are for my specific car year, model and configuration. I have a 2016 Premium forester without eyesight (affects the Covercraft/heatshield sunshade - they also have eyesight compatible sunshades!).

Also, I personally didn't get my windows tinted, but I think that is something that you should seriously consider doing :)

Speaker kit

Tweeter kit

WeatherTech DigitalFit floorliner (1st & 2nd row)

WeatherTech cargo/trunk liner (without bumper protector)

Weather Tech TechCare floorliner and floormat Cleaner/Protector Kit

Gorilla mud flaps

Covercraft's UVS100 sunscreen - use promo code FREESHIP

Exterior Auto Dimming Mirror w/ Approach Lighting

Luggage Compartment Cover (manual rear gate)

Rear bumper cover

Auto-Dimming Mirror with Compass and HomeLink

Rear Seat Back Protector

Two Home Depot 5 gallon homer bucket

Heatshield sunshade (driver/passenger, second row, rear windshield, sunroof) - note that their website only shows only one side window (driver/passenger), you need to call in to ask them to add the second row side window ones - on my invoice it says part #1425S-A and #1425S-B

Antigravity Batteries AG-XP-10 Multi-Function Power Supply and Jump Starter (check eBay to see if priced cheaper)

Viair 77P Portable Compressor Kit (check eBay to see if priced cheaper)

Amazon stuff:

EZ Pass Holder for VA Flex

Aux cable

Stickershield (parking stickers, etc)

Dropstop seat gap filler (driver/passenger side)

Door panel removal kit (for speaker kit install)

Two grit guards

Microfiber Drying towel

Microfiber cloths (3 pack)

Car wash shampoo

Wheel brush

Resqme (window breaker/seatbelt cutter)

Wheel cleaner

Microfiber wash mitt

Reindeer costume for Christmas

Headrest coat hanger

Road reflective triangles

Duct tape

Odor eliminator

Tire air pressure gauge

OBDII Scanner (Bluetooth)

First aid kit

u/gaius49 · 3 pointsr/reloading

The shininess of wet tumbling seems to be largely contingent on which cleaning agents you put in the water. I've had excellent luck with good car wash soap - After 3 hours in my FA tumbler, the brass comes out extremely shiny inside and out, even the primer pockets are shiny.

u/arrrgh14 · 3 pointsr/GolfGTI

Here you go

MATCC Adjustable Foam Cannon 1 Liter Bottle Snow Foam Lance With 1/4" Quick Connector Foam Blaster for Pressure Washer Gun

Chemical Guys CWS_101 Maxi-Suds II Super Suds Car Wash Soap and Shampoo, Cherry Scent (1 Gal)

u/AgileSynapse · 3 pointsr/TeslaModel3

There is a pretty good explanation video on this Amazon page:

u/TallWasabi · 3 pointsr/TeslaLounge

Aero Cosmetics Wet or Waterless. Whether full wash or not. This is what I use. Works great.

u/Markuz · 3 pointsr/GolfGTI
u/ee_dan · 3 pointsr/Kayaking

If you store them outside ir somewhere the sun can damage them then invest a little money into some 303 protectant spray. 303 (30313-CSR) UV Protectant Spray for Vinyl, Plastic, Rubber, Fiberglass, Leather & More - Dust and Dirt Repellant - Non-Toxic, Matte Finish, 32 Fl.

Also avoid oyster beds and dragging them across rough gravel. Have fun!

u/thuggprotein · 3 pointsr/ft86

MATCC Adjustable Foam Wash Gun 1L Bottle Car Wash Gun Snow Foam Lance With 1/4" Quick Connector

u/dcdttu · 3 pointsr/TeslaModel3

Aero Cosmetics Wet or Waterless Car Wash Wax Kit 144 Ounces. Aircraft Quality for Your Car, RV, Boat, Motorcycle. The Best Wash Wax. Anywhere, Anytime, Home, Office, School, Garage, Parking Lots.

Can't recommend enough.

u/Wildcard3369 · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Don’t spend a lot of money. I have the McKilans one another poster mentioned, and the MATCC one from Amazon. The MATCC actually works better in my opinion, at half the price.

MATCC Adjustable Foam Cannon 1 Liter Bottle Snow Foam Lance With 1/4" Quick Connector Foam Blaster for Pressure Washer Gun

I definitely don’t see a need for the more expensive ones.

u/adam_newyork · 3 pointsr/teslamotors

I live in an apartment. I use this : Wet or Waterless Car Wash Wax Kit...

u/Shinobus_Smile_Work · 3 pointsr/ft86
u/Prophecy_64 · 3 pointsr/teslamotors

Wash Wax All and I’ve only done waterless and always used CLEAN rags. Clean starting at the top moving down to the bottom last. As far as I can tell, I haven’t gotten hardly any spiderweb scratches.

u/ouchcube · 3 pointsr/goodyearwelt

My first GYW pair as well, also black cherry. I picked up a Lexol Leather Care Kit that comes with leather cleaner and conditioner. I wore them a few times and then cleaned and conditioned them according to the kit instructions. After each wear I brush them down with a horse hair brush and when I'm not wearing them I put in shoe trees.

I clean/condition them after about 5-6 weeks, unless I get them really muddy or something. There are surely others on this sub with better knowledge of leather care, but this routine has been working fine for me so far. Most will recommend giving them 24 hours to rest after wearing, but, y'know, they're boots.

u/Fresh_Easy · 3 pointsr/frugalmalefashion

Check this out.

u/AdviseMyAdvice · 3 pointsr/malefashionadvice

I'm pretty new to boots as well, but I'd suggest picking up a few things if you don't have them already. This will apply to most leather shoes/boots (doesn't really apply to suede or roughout leathers... for that you'll need a suede brush)

FYI below is basically a tl;dr of this post that got me started on all of this. I recommend you read through it all and check out /r/goodyearwelt and maybe just use this post as more as a quick reference or for ideas.

  1. Brush off your boots as much as you can with the horsehair brush

  2. Wipe down your boots with a wet rag

  3. I'm guessing you won't get everything off, so wait for them to air dry and then use the leather cleaner on them (you probably won't have to use leather cleaner every time... and you might not want to as it dries out the boot)

  4. Wait for your boots to air dry

  5. Condition the leather on your boots.

  6. Wait for your boots to air dry

  7. Repeat whenever your boots need it. On average that will probably be every 3-6 months, but the best way to tell is by feel.

    Daily Care

  • Use a shoe horn to put your shoes on

  • When you take off your shoes give them a quick brush. Ideally you'll take off the shoelaces first but it won't kill them if you don't do this every time. I'd recommend at least brushing them off once every few wears, and brush+wipedown with water/rag every 5-10 wears.

  • Always put cedar shoe trees in your leather boots/shoes when you take them off and leave them in until your next wear... this is what happens if you don't. The shoe trees will help keep your boots from developing unwanted toe spring, will help control moisture inside the boot, and will keep them smelling fresh.

  • Let your boots rest/dry for 24hrs in-between wears with shoe trees in. If you wear them every day you will significantly reduce their lifespan.
u/tman37 · 3 pointsr/howto

It really depends on how much work you want to do. A quick brush shine with some polish will do a lot to make them look better but if you want to rejuvenate them it will take more work.

Step 1. Clean the boot. Saddle soap works but there are good leather cleaners out there. I will link to the one I use. A damp cloth and some elbow grease will work as well, although to a lesser extent.

Step 2. Condition the leather. There are a lot of options. I use lexol with comes with a cleaner.

Step 3. There are leather repair products that would help fix that tear on the left boot but since these are work boots I wouldn't bother.

Step 4. Brush shine with black shoe polish. Put a little polish on the boot with an applicator brush then brush off the excess with a horse hair brush.

I work in a technical environment in the military and this works wonders.

u/boggart2 · 3 pointsr/Harley
u/value_ate · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing
u/miles5241 · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing
u/drglude · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Are these any good?

I have a Amazon giftcard n I am trying to use....that's why I am posting amazon links

u/memyselfandhai · 3 pointsr/GolfGTI

I love Larry's videos from AMMO NYC & DRIVE Clean and have always followed his recommendations for detailing/washing.

u/AWildAnonHasAppeared · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Great, thank you!

Sorry if I'm being stupid, but do I apply the sealant with a microfiber towel or with this?

If not, what is that sponge used for?

u/TeslaWindsor · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing
u/ultragib · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing

It doesn't take much at all to scratch a car. I'll leave it to others more experienced in paint correction to address your scratches, but in the future, know that even in the city you have safe self-wash options. Enter Optimum No Rinse Wash (often abbreviated as ONR on these threads).

Get yourself two five gallon buckets at Home Depot. Buy ONR, some microfibers, and a grit guard or two. Google Optimum No Rinse Wash and watch some two bucket method videos. You can fill the buckets in your apartment and head out and clean the car in a parking spot. You will soon get over your neighbors looking at you like you're nuts cleaning the car without a hose in a lot, because you'll always have the cleanest car around.

Start with that and stick around here and you'll find a lot more tips from people in your same situation.

Optimum (NR2010Q) No Rinse Wash & Shine - 32 oz.

u/WaterishCube · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I totally get what you mean. For bird poop removal I use ONR diluted to 2oz to a gallon in a spray bottle. Or just do a regular wash and when the mf towel touches the poop I put it in the dirty towel bucket and grab a new one.

For claying I use ONR diluted the same as before and what ever clay I have on hand most of the time it is the meguiars you can buy at the auto store.

For regular soap I use Adam's car shampoo (the blue one) I love this stuff in a bucket or foamer it works amazing for both.

Interior I mostly use onr in what ever dilution I have the most of at that time.

For cleaning glass I use the method Larry for AmmoNYC uses. Invisible glass works wonders for me but if it does not work for you don't be afraid to try other products. fine tuning your process will be trial and error of new products.

If you don't have a bottle of ONR already I would pick one up I use it every time I detail vehicle. You can find it on amazon here

But the biggest tip I can give anyone that is starting out is to drink water during detailing.

Hope this helps.

u/V1VrV2 · 3 pointsr/flying

For washing the non-greasy parts, I use a diluted solution of Optimum No Rinse (aka ONR, link here) and it works well. I use a waffle-weave microfiber and a bucket of water along with a spray bottle of ONR.

For windows, microfiber cloth plus Plexus or Clear View acrylic cleaner. Agree with what's stated below about don't drop your microfiber.

u/SirBurningBeard · 3 pointsr/Challenger

I am a fan of Optimum no rinse wash and use their tire shine and spray wax.

No rinse wash

u/MAC_Addy · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I have found that Optimum works really well. Also, the last coat works really, really well for me.

u/becoolbasf · 3 pointsr/teslamotors
  1. What I advise you to do the following:
    1. Get PPF (Paint Protection Film) full front (if you can afford it)
    2. After the PPF, get a ceramic coating done. there’s a lot of debate of it’s actually needed or effective but I’ve seen many many cases where either side can be “correct” in the sense you can’t go wrong diy vs. getting it done professionally. There are plenty of people here who have done it themselves but please refer to r/Autodetailing if you’re interested. I choose to get mine done professionally and I don’t regret it one bit. Helps to maintain the car very easy. Here’s a pic after getting ppf and coating done:
  2. I use two bucket method (LOT of tutorials on google and youtube) Here’s a list of every single thing related I purchased for doing my own car wash:
    1. ONR Solution
    2. Chemical Guys MIC_507_06 Professional Grade Premium Microfiber Towel, Gold (16 in. x 24 in.) (Pack of 6)
    3. 2 of Meguiar’s X2000 Water Magnet Microfiber Drying Towel, 1 Pack
    4. Relentless Drive Ultimate Car Wash Mitt - 2 Pack Extra Large Size - Premium Chenille Microfiber Wash Mitt - Wash Glove - Lint Free - Scratch Free
    5. Chemical Guys MIC_7071 Glass and Window Waffle Weave Towel, Red (24 in. x 16 in.)
    6. Grit Guard (2x)
    7. Solo 418 One-Hand Pressure Sprayer, 1-Liter, Ergonomic Grip for Gardening, Fertilizing, Cleaning & General Use Spraying
    8. Windshield Window Cleaner Tool, Unbreakable Extendable Long-Reach Handle, Unique Pivoting Triangular Head, 3 Washable Reusable Microfiber Bonnets, Car & Home Inside Interior Exterior Use - Lint Free
    9. Buy 2 5 gallons buckets at Home Depot/Lowe’s
  3. Tesla should do it for free but some people do end up paying $25-60 but usually free. Hope this helps!
u/Elaborate_vm_hoax · 3 pointsr/Golf_R

Grab some 303 Aerospace Protectant to go with it, doesn't leave grease and grim behind like most cleaners and protects from UV damage.

u/Daftest_of_the_Punks · 3 pointsr/subaru

Try this out: 303 (30313-CSR) UV Protectant Spray for Vinyl, Plastic, Rubber, Fiberglass, Leather & More – Dust and Dirt Repellant - Non-Toxic, Matte Finish, 32 Fl. oz.

u/DasWerk · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Buy three buckets, one for wheels, the others for a two bucket system.

Buy something to clean the wheels as well. I have the wheel woolies but I'm going to ask for the woolly wormit for my birthday from my wife.

Get a Waterless Wash and/or Quick Detailer for the times when you don't need a wash but you want to clean stuff up.

Take a look into this new Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic Wax for a sealant. I have used the Fast Finish and it's great so this should be even better.

I also use Meguiar's Ultimate Quik Wax (D156 is the same but in a gallon jug) as a drying aid and it makes the car POP!

As a final suggestion, buy some 303 for the interior. You're going to love it. Not greasy, smells okay (not fruity), and leaves things looking great.

u/bananas2000 · 3 pointsr/cars

Wow. I should get into paint correction. <$250 for all the tools and polish and waxes. As a car guy, I don't mind waxing my car every 6 months (or 4 months if you're in the frigid north or are anal). I also feel it's foolish to drop $2k-4k on these nano-quartz-bullshit schemes that a lot of car guys swear by nowadays. If you want to drop $4k on paint protection, go for it, but I can get a full window-out repaint for the same price!

Here's what I learned:

Buy the equipment: (MIN: 2 orange, 2 white, 1 black, 1 blue -- I prefer doubling this order; Autogeek almost always has 10-25% off coupons on their mailing list)

You will also need an extension wire with the appropriate gauge (too thin/cheap cables might cause you to burn your Porter Cable motor!)

Buy the compounds (start with UC; if swirls aren't getting cut, move up to 50%/50% UC and 105 on the pads; finish with 205 regardless): (medium aggressive) (most aggressive)

Wash your car with this, and the two-bucket method:

Claybar the car:

It took me about 5-6 relaxed hours on a Sunday with a few beers for the full correction. Now I simply top up the wax every few months (and that only takes 30 min).

The thing is, once you do the full correction and get rid of all your swirls and scuffs and whatever clearcoat damage (wash + claybar + M105/UC + M205 + wax), then you don't have to do the FULL correction ever again.

Ever again meaning, if you wash the car properly thereafter with the two-bucket method. You'll simply need to top up the wax once it stops beading -- the wax will protect the clearcoat from damage and swirls.

My wax lasted 6+ months being daily driven in the California sun with three coats of Collinite 845 -- I assume if yours will see more snow and ice and rain, perhaps it'll only last 3-4 months. But since a bottle costs <$20 and you'll get at least 36+ layers out of it, I always recommend this versus the "nano coatings" that people are shelling out $2-4k for.

Here's the Collinite fanboy thread:

Any other questions, feel free to ask. Good luck!

u/haikumoment · 3 pointsr/motorcycles
u/inversesandwich · 3 pointsr/pebble
u/OverExclamated · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

brosader's idea isn't a bad one either. Admit you have sinned and tarnished their otherwise beautiful product. Beg for forgiveness. You may just end up with a sacrificial pane to practice lasercutting on.

u/FPFan · 3 pointsr/fountainpens

A little late to this, but get some clear spray lacquer, Home Depot or Lowes will also carry it.

To apply, spray a light coat, dry, 2000+ grit sand paper very light. Repeat 5-10 times. Then use a polish like Novus Plastic Polish -- will only need 2 and then 1 for this use, 3 is for heavy scratches -- to clean up after the last coat.

Glad to answer any other questions

u/SwineLegionNullified · 3 pointsr/Mid_Century

You might try Novus on the scratches, this stuff rocks:

NOVUS 7100 Plastic Polish Kit - 8 oz.

u/dave_890 · 3 pointsr/VintageRadios

Link to make a replacement 67.5V "B" battery from 9V batteries.

I have a hi-def image of the label of an Eveready #455 (45V) B battery if you want it. Actual size, so you can cut the cardboard holder a *bit* smaller, then wrap a print of the image onto the cardboard. Use Photoshop or another paint program to change the numbers.

Plastic polish would remove the oxidation from the case. Get the Novus kit.

u/SuperTongue · 3 pointsr/NZXT

I looked around and found some plastic / acrylic cleaner that's suppose to work well with case windows.

I ordered some and should have it Friday. I'll let you know how it turns out!

u/CunningRunt · 3 pointsr/BuyItForLife

Ya gotta be a TOUGH MANLY MAN to make it through NorthEast winters.....

Just kidding, man. It's a great question, actually. This is my experience...

You're going to need wool socks to keep your feet warm. I personally like Darn Tough socks and some from a label called Mountain View I got at Ocean State Job Lot for $4.00 (70% merino). You don't have to spend a ton of money to get wool socks. TJ Maxx and Marshalls have slightly irregulars on sale quite often around here. Not sure about California, tho. Avoid cotton socks. Run far, far away from acrylic socks. Look for socks that are mostly (>50%) wool. Nylon will give them some durability.

You're also going to need to learn how to take care of your boots! Maybe you do this already, but if not...

The simplest thing to do is wipe them off with a clean towel after you get back indoors.

You're also going to have to treat your leather boots with some kind of dressing. Frequency varies, but at least once a year. Once a month is probably overkill. So find something in-between that works for you.

This is strictly in my opinion and experience, but the two best products I've found for this are Obenauf's Leather Protector and Huberd's Shoe Grease. WARNING: Obenauf's WILL darken the leather. That's no big deal to me but for some people it's a non-starter. Huberd's doesn't seem to darken leather, but YMMV.

Lastly, Bick #4 does a real nice job of conditioning and cleaning leather shoes/boots. I only use this when I think my shoes/boots are looking a little grubby. Bick #4 does NOT darken leather at all.

I hope you get a chance to "enjoy" a "real winter" sometime soon. One of the most fun experiences I've ever had was hanging out with a buddy from India who had never experienced snow before. He thought it was glorious. It made me take a new look at it, and winter CAN be glorious if you want it to be.

u/YourGFsFave · 3 pointsr/snowboarding

This stuff works better than snoseal. It's breathable, body heat melts it into the gloves, smells good, and darkens the leather a few shades. Highly recommend it for kincos.

u/allforthekarma · 3 pointsr/frugalmalefashion

Use this occasionally

Definitely a little darker right after use- but they lighten back up

u/sylvester_0 · 3 pointsr/S2000

I can't comment on your particular issue, but I use Sonax wheel cleaner and I really like it. It melts away brake dust etc. and it turns purple when it "reacts" with debris on your wheels.

u/fallenbuddhist · 3 pointsr/Audi

Looks great, but speaking as someone with those can be a real PITA.

If you're not already using it, Sonax makes a pretty nice product that will save you a bunch of time getting in between those grooves.

u/martinw89 · 3 pointsr/FiestaST

You owe it to yourself to try a bottle of a good wheel cleaner. Besides saving a ton of time and frustration, wheel cleaners dissolve brake dust so it can be harmlessly cleaned off instead of scrubbing it against the wheel paint for a while.

Try one of these (in order of price). Griot's and Meguiar's can be found in most auto parts stores:

u/mettigel5483 · 3 pointsr/prius

The free way to perhaps help would be to clean your gaskets along the doors/hood/ and windows as well as their mating surfaces with just warm soapy water and rinsing them off. You could also buy a quality water-based gasket conditioner to treat them with after cleaning them to counteract any drying out with something like this or this!

u/Intense_introvert · 3 pointsr/BMW

Did you put gasket treatment on the door seals to help prevent the doors from sticking?

u/toomuchtodotoday · 3 pointsr/teslamotors

I'd recommend Gummi Pflege Stift instead. It came highly rated from the auto detailing subreddit, and I've been very pleased with the results on our S and X.

u/Macsimus15 · 3 pointsr/Autos

Also one more thing. Buy this

This is what they use on the rubber trim on the hardtop convertible tops on bmws. Put it all around the rubber seal on the T tops. It refreshes the rubber and prevents leaks. This shit works like a charm. brought my rubber seals back to life.

u/Adoraci · 3 pointsr/WRX

Rail dust from transport is very common on new cars and may or may not shot up as small orange specs. It can be removed with a clay bar as suggested, but whenever possible it's best to avoid physical contact with the paint. So in this case a chemical decon such as IronX would be your best bet. And a bonus, it has a unique smell.

u/bigfriendben · 3 pointsr/malefashionadvice

This is the exact set I bought. It doesn't squirt or spray, it has a screw on top with a small nozzle, like on a shampoo bottle.

u/willielazorjones · 2 pointsr/Jaguar

as a general rule of thumb anything with meguiars on the label will be a reasonably priced, good mid range product to use on your car, for an average person. not the best in the world but also you cant really go wrong with it.

u/Evo180x · 2 pointsr/camaro


I'm definitely a rookie that's been watching youtube videos to learn and haven't really spend much on tools.

Foam Cannon:


Pressure Washer:


As a test run I used Meguiar's Gold Class:


Honestly, the result vs effort in this method is really good. It's not a spot on wash but it was a quick wash and cleaned up nicely overall. I will definitely keep working this method in the future.

u/bmcclure937 · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

If you wanna keep it under $30 and want a very basic method of keeping your car clean then I would recommend the tried and true 2-Bucket Wash method.

  1. 2 x 5-gallon buckets (Lowes or Home Depot) - $2/bucket
  2. 2 x GritGuards - $17
  3. 2 x MicroFiber Wash Mitts - $15
  4. Meguiar's Golf Class Car Wash Shampoo - $10

    TOTAL: $45ish

    I know that $45 is over your budget of $30, but I highly recommend using the 2-bucket wash method. You can get away with using 1 grit guard and 1 wash mitt if you want to cut a little bit on cost. You could also buy a smaller size of car wash shampoo... this may get you closer to budget.

    The reason I buy 2 grit guards is to use 1 in each bucket. You can buy only 1 and use it in the rinse water bucket for when you rinse your mitt.

    You can also get away with having 1 wash mitt and look at different brands. I personally use 2 (one for upper half, one for lower half) to reduce contamination.


    If you want to expand later on to go beyond cleaning the car... then you can put some money into additional products. You will want to look into wheel brushes, all-purpose cleaner, glass cleaners, detail sprays, waxes, etc.

    Once you start, you cannot stop!
u/craznazn247 · 2 pointsr/hookah

Best polish product ever

Completely removes any stains and tarnishes, and leaves a sparkling shine with absolutely zero abrasion. This container has lasted me for over a year. Just rip a little off and rub away!

u/BimmyLee27 · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

You can get this stuff at Walmart/Autozone. I've been using it for 10+ years.

u/wolfsniper27 · 2 pointsr/BuyItForLife

If you want to make it shiny as can be, you might hit the body with some Nevr-Dull.

u/na3800 · 2 pointsr/NewAgain

NEVR-DULL can be found in the car care section of walmart, or autoparts stores

u/reh102 · 2 pointsr/WRX

Eagle One E301131001 Original Nevr-Dull Wadding Polish for all Metals, 5 oz.

u/MrVicePresident · 2 pointsr/DIY

It looks like the rust ate through the plating so it'll take a bit of effort to make it look like new. You could use a rust remover like whink then an all purpose metal polish like eagle one never dull to make it spiffy.

u/MojoMonster · 2 pointsr/Guitar

You just need to polish the frets. And change those strings. Yikes. :)

Get some Eagle One Nevr-Dull from your local auto parts store. I picked some up from PepBoys recently.

Put tape on the fretboard right up to the edge of the frets to protect the wood. Then scrub the frets with Nevr-Dull. Rinse and repeat.

Once you're done, remove the frets and wipe down the fretboard with a clean cloth and naptha. You just want to get any loose bits and gunk off.

Put some graphite in the nut and saddle slots.

Toss a little bit of mineral oil on the fretboard and restring that puppy.

u/g0ldendomer · 2 pointsr/hookah

Like the title says, between my final semester of college, moving and starting a new job, I haven't had the time to give my KM a good cleaning. For those interested in the process, here goes:

I started by disassembling the entire thing. The coal tray, grommets and any other removable pieces got a bath in hot water and dish soap. The stem was scrubbed with a brush soaked in the soapy water, and left to soak for a few minutes. The soap worked to loosen any built up grease and other shit inside. If you've never done this, do it, its disgusting the stuff that comes out. After the good soak, I ran water down the stem and passed some paper towels through. If you've ever cleaned a gun, its basically the same thing. The base got a good soaking in plain old hot water and was scrubbed inside with a brush and wiped clean on the outside. I don't recommend the soap on the base as its a bitch to get out.

For the actual polishing, I used Eagle One Never Dull ( Lay down a towel, grab a wad and get to work. I like to rest the bottom of the stem on my foot and spin the whole stem while I hold the wadding to it. As you work, the wadding will turn gray as it removes the tarnishing. As it gets grayer or starts falling apart, just grab some more. Once you've hit the whole thing, repeat the process but with a dry microfiber towel. At this point, you're done, or you can continue repeating the process until you're satisfied! This stuff is fairly harsh, so don't use it in a poorly vented room and I recommend washing your hands thoroughly when you're done.


u/JonSzanto · 2 pointsr/fountainpens

Don't worry too much, you should be able to clean it up. Here are the steps I'd take, from least invasive to most...

  • First up, rinse the inside of the cap out under running water, dry the inside as best you can with a rolled up piece of paper towel, and then leave open overnight to completely dry. For the barrel, short of taking it apart (i.e. pulling out the section, I'd just leave it, hoping that ink didn't find a way to go in through the outside of the lever box).

  • Once you are there, you should first wipe the entire pen with a damp cloth (cotton, not paper towel - you want soft). If that doesn't remove the red, then put a couple drops of dish soap on the cloth, wet it, and then wipe the pen off again. If this doesn't do it, try a cloth with a bit of Windex (which is just really diluted ammonia in water) and wipe with that.

  • Now, if none of those steps works, and you really think the body is stained (I kinda wish you would have mentioned which color pen you have), then I wouldn't use micromesh but a mildly abrasive polish. Before buying anything, you've probably already got some in your house: toothpaste! As long as it isn't one of the gel products, toothpaste has some gentle abrasives. Try just a dab of that on a damp cloth and lightly polish an area to see if it removes the stuff. Rinse clean with water, naturally.

  • Finally, if you are still in the weeds with a stain, you'll need a plastic polish. I would suggest a Novus plastic polish kit. You can see if cleaner #1 will simply clean off the stain, but if not, then a gentle polish with polish #2 followed by #1 should do the trick. I'd be hesitant to use polish #3, and frankly doubt that your stain is that bad.

  • Lastly, when I travel with pens or have to ship something that has ink in it. I always wrap it paper towels so that if there is a leak, the absorbent layers will take up most all of the liquid. I then put it in a ziplock bag to keep any of that from anything else I'm carrying. I'm afraid that while the saran wrap may have protected other contents next to your pen, it may have assisted in bonding the ink stain onto the surface of your pen.

    Back to my initial statement: I have a suspicion that this will come off pretty easily! (and sorry for the wordy response...)
u/babycrusher69 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

If you don't go the tempered glass route try buying Novus. It's a great plastic polishing compound. It should be able to get rid of the scratches.

u/copperrein · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Normally I would stabilize stuff with a vacuum chamber (details on my setup here)

With these I didn't bother since I needed them right away. I grabbed some really horrible scraps of the spalted maple and shaped/sanded. Bits were trying to fall off so I grabbed Solarez and did a few coats, curing with my little UV gel manicure light for three minutes between coats. Once that was done I sanded out the lumpy spots and took it to 600 grit. I then polished it with Novus #2 polish...boom, done.

Even with the minimal amount of effort I put into the handles, they turned out amazing. In the future I could spend a little more time and have a perfect finish in less than a day. The resin is what they coat pool sticks and surfboards with so the handles feel like that...not the same as a linseed finish but not totally plastic feeling, either.

u/MeatyBalledSub · 2 pointsr/gaming

Fun fact : You can use plastic polish and a soft cloth or sock to get better results than a buffing machine can offer in most instances. Those machines sometimes make read issues worse. I recommend Novus #2.

Four or so drops on a disc rubbed in with tight circular wipes works wonders.

u/rhetoricity · 2 pointsr/kindle

I wouldn't expect a miracle, but I wonder if Novus Plastic Polish is worth a try? Or—in all serousness here—try polishing it with toothpaste.

u/primitivesoundsystem · 2 pointsr/vinyl

I did high end picture framing for many years and this is the best way to polish acrylic: Novus

u/NefariousPilot · 2 pointsr/watercooling

You can use this to get the plexi top back to it's brand new condition.

u/SnakeyesX · 2 pointsr/oculus
u/exige1981 · 2 pointsr/hockeyplayers

I recommend using a plastic polish. You can do it by hand but if you have a drill, or even better a random orbital buffer it goes pretty quickly.

u/bongklute · 2 pointsr/vintageaudio

Out of all the products I've tried, I have the best results with a multi-step system. This one works really well.

You can get some of the haze out, and some of the lighter swirls and scratches, but you'll never put that brand new and poppin' look back into something that's been well used. Plastic is just not made to last like that.

u/ssl-3 · 2 pointsr/videosurveillance

I've used this on PTZ domes that have gotten scratched up. It worked very well. It was a fuckload of work.

u/nicely11b · 2 pointsr/modelmakers

Sure, I use this set. I start with #1, the blue bottle, and give the plastic a general cleaning, just to make sure there aren't any particles on the plastic that are going to gouge. After that, I use #2 (the red bottle) and a lint free cloth and just rub the hell out of the plastic. You should always try to polish at 90 degree angles so you don't end up with streaks. By that I mean polish in one direction, then polish 90 degrees different from that direction. Once I'm satisfied with that, I give it another polishing with #1.

u/phoenixdigita1 · 2 pointsr/oculus

If you really do have a scratch they can be removed with something like this if you are very very careful.

If you are using glasses you probably should look at getting lens protectors. Links to product in description of images

u/HotdogRacing · 2 pointsr/AnimeFigures

The only one I can vouch for is the Novus plastic polishing compound. It's what they use on stormtrooper armor when it gets worn due to use. There is probably more out there but I haven't researched.

Use the finest polish you can.

u/RodBlaine · 2 pointsr/modelmakers

As mentioned by another modeler you can use polishing pads.

Micro Mesh are good. These pads are also useful, I use them wet and in order. I also cut them into smaller pieces to make polishing easier.

As for a polishing compound, I found this one to be good. It also works well on the lenses of modern 1:1 size cars if you need them to be as bright as new. ;^)

u/mdamaged · 2 pointsr/NZXT

Here, NZXT is not going to help you, they are going to be too busy trying to damage control their HUE+'s frying peoples' PCs.


u/AerowynX · 2 pointsr/Vive

for scratches I highly recommend this stuff used it to get scratches from my Vive

u/Mister_Nathan · 2 pointsr/Nerf

Depending on how deep the scratches are, you could probably use some Meguires' plastic polish to clean it up.

I've also heard good things about this: But have never used it, personally.

u/ripster55 · 2 pointsr/Trackballs

I personally use Novus shine products:

u/tangbang · 2 pointsr/goodyearwelt

Just curious, but why did you go with Otter Wax over something like Sno Seal or Obenauf's?

u/typographic · 2 pointsr/frugalmalefashion

LL Bean Boots - (signature version, if you like canvas). Go down a full size for medium-weight socks, size and a half for wool socks, which you should have at least three pairs of. Darn Tough has a no bullshit lifetime warranty, so feel comfortable buying their stuff. Weatherproof a pair of Thorogoods if bean boots aren't your bag. Here's a plain toe version.

A vintage navy peacoat is always a safe and timeless option.

Keep an eye out for merino wool beanies, softer than a baby's ass.

When all else fails, an insulated thermos and tea's a good thing to have.

u/Innerpiece · 2 pointsr/malefashionadvice

You may want to consider Obenauf's LP in that case

u/manlyJulip · 2 pointsr/malefashionadvice

My bad on the low quality image. Loving my new J. Crew Knit Sweater in dark blue

Waiting for:

Tan Wolverine 1000 miles

Obenauf's Heavy Duty LP

Saddleback ID wallet

u/ancientmadder · 2 pointsr/malefashionadvice

I recommend either not treating them or maybe giving it a quick layer of Obenauf's Heavy Duty LP.

u/Dioreus · 2 pointsr/DIY

I really don't have a preference. I use Black rock leather, but a lot of fashion leather shoe guys like Obenauf's LP or venetian shoe cream

u/[deleted] · 2 pointsr/teenagers

These [boots] ( and leather preserver.

Books, one, two, three, and finally four.

Bit set.

And new cooking stuff.

All of this was on one giant order.

u/kmets4 · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I would reccomend these materials for the two bucket wash method. Its probably the most common method, and one of the safest. There are plenty of youtube how to's on this. These are the materials you'll need.

  • Two buckets that will be used for the two bucket wash method. They can be purchased from a local home center for relatively cheap. $10
  • Grit Guards. Preferably two, in order to prevent grit from reentering the wash mitt. $20
  • Wash Mitt. Something like this will be just fine. $8
  • Car soap. This is completely up to you. Something like Meguiar's Gold Class is fine. $10

  • Wheel brush. Dependent on what you type of wheels you have. A quick amazon search will give you an idea. $10-20
  • Sealant. I use Meguiar's M21. Not the best not the worst. Im sure others will chime in an have recommendations for you. $20.
  • Wax. I don't use a wax because my car is older, and the sealant does just fine.

  • Microfibers. The Rag Company has some great starter kits.

    Not Necessarily essentials, but recommended.

  • Wheel cleaner. Something like Sonax. $15
  • Clay Bar. This will be used to intitially remove contaminants from the car. Plenty of youtube how to's and kits can be found easily through amazon or your local auto parts store. $20

    I don't think you need anything like a DA at this point. Others will have recommendations for you, and I encourage you to take their advice as well. Some great youtube channels are Ammo NYC, Larry is a master at explaining how to's. He has is own line of products but they're expensive. You can even email him with questions and he'll respond quickly and go above and beyond to explain somethingto you. Junkman, also another great channel. Chemical Guys, they have some pretty good products but their customer service is shit. Their youtube videos are pretty good but all they do is upsell their products.

    I'm fairly new to detailing like you. I dont have the best products, but what I use seems to work for me. There are better products out there but budgets can only be so large.
u/yoyomiller2 · 2 pointsr/subaru

Beautiful colored Subie. I use a spray on sealant by Meguiars to keep my headlights from fading, lasts well over a year.

Also, this stuff called gummi pflege stift is great for restoring and protecting old rubber door seals:

nextzett 91480615 'Gummi Pflege Stift' Rubber Care Stick - 3.4 fl. oz

u/albearrr · 2 pointsr/GolfGTI

I've read this should help with the creaking issue.

I have the same creaking issue but I have yet to attempt a fix on it.

u/AZStig · 2 pointsr/BMW

I have had zero repairs on the top and the only maintenance I've done is to put some Gummi Pflege on the seals every 6 months ( ). The top works great and has never given me a problem. I live in Arizona and put it down A LOT.

u/RoflTits · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

This stuff is great to keep your rubber nice and supple, and does add a little "blackness"

u/SqrBrewer · 2 pointsr/GolfGTI

You can get it at Amazon or your choice of online sites.

Simply clean all seals with a damp microfiber cloth, wet the applicator and moisten the seals. Do your doors, hatch and hood seals too, especially if you are in a winter zone.

u/TheStuffle · 2 pointsr/GolfGTI
u/GrammarFailure · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing
u/AutoBach · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

> There is great rubber/trim stick out there, but I can't remember the name (I think it is German).

Is this it?
Einszett Gummi Pfledge Stift

u/pants_full_of_pants · 2 pointsr/cars

I'd recommend Gummi Pflege Stift instead. There is no better rubber care product:

u/Phyco_Boy · 2 pointsr/plastidip

/r/AutoDetailing would be a good place to ask too, I would for see some answers would be what /u/LexusBrian400 has already said, plus;


Iron X

That's just off the top of my head.

u/socialisthippie · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

You could try Iron X Or similar products.

u/pouncer11 · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I thought about having the whole car repainted or trying to do the clear myself. I know if I reclear it, it wont look right. Its that Night Hawk Black from honda with the blue flake in it. Super pretty color :( I live in Ohio, but this car has ZERO rust other than one fender that got bent up from a blowout. Most rust is on edges in the underside and on brackets under the hood.

This is the stuff right?

u/bbeeztx15 · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Not too sure if it is. I use CarPro Iron X and that is sade for painted surfaces and your wheels: Carpro Iron X Iron Remover 500 ml with Sprayer

u/djtonebank · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Thanks for all the info! I ended up buying the MATCC one from Amazon and will prolly pick up the 1.1mm orifice that @Ziomalski suggested. I chose this cannon b/c I know it fits the SPX3001 out the box.

Will be here today. Excited to see the results.

u/phineas1134 · 2 pointsr/boating

Kaboom with Oxiclean + tooth brush, then wipe clean with a microfiber towel has worked well for me. Be sure to give the cleaner a good minute or more of contact time to work its magic on the mildew before wiping clean.

The magic eraser suggested by others will work quicker, but it will also scour off the top layer of your vinyl which will likely weaken it and remove UV protection. If you must go the magic eraser route be as gentle as possible, and be sure to generously re-coat the vinyl with 303 protectant to protect against UV damage.

And if all else fails, vinyl can be repainted to look like new. I had great results a few years ago with this white dye followed by a few coats of this clear coat on my seats. They are still holding up great after a few years of heavy use and many cleanings.

u/ewinterstine · 2 pointsr/uberdrivers

Completed my first week with 28 rides and I'm surprised how nice everyone has been so far! I creeped on this sub for a few weeks now for tips/tricks and it has really helped. PAX also really like the interior lights of my car. Some materials I want to share:

Waterless Car Wash - I work in the city and didn't know there was such a thing. I can wash my car in my parking spot or on the street with a little bucket of water.

LED Interior Lights - This is a little flashy, but it was only $10 and I hard wired it into my interior dash so there are 0 wires and I'm not using up my outlet for power. Plus PAX can see if they dropped anything and we're not driving completely in the dark. I can control the brightness and usually have it very dim for some atmospheric lighting

Vaccum - This thing works great and has a very long cord to reach through my entire Jeep. It's not for heavy duty jobs, but vacuuming once a week should do the trick

Phone Holder - The Jeep has circular air ducts so this is a great alternative - if you do not use your CD player. This does cover your CD port and has worked great so far. Since it's in my center dash, PAX can see where I'm going.

Battery Powered Uber Sign - Again, flashy but it draws attention and since it's battery powered I do not have to worry about cords running through my car or dash. I found mine on Ebay.

Water - I have a small compartment to keep ice-packs and small water bottles. With every PAX I pickup I offer a bottle of water. 9/10 say no thanks but everyone is very thankful for the offer.

u/notanuka · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Gotcha, had a feeling I had to get a better attachment. Would this this suffice as a more budget friendly attachment?

u/TrboLag · 2 pointsr/volt


  • Foam cannon. Works on basic pressure washers despite the GPM flow it calls for.
  • Soap
u/brewton · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I purchased a knock-off on Amazon (MATCC) and have been very happy with it. It's hooked up to a 3000 PSI gas powered pressure washer so I'm sure that helps, but I've gotten good results. The review with the pic of a Yukon on there is mine.

Here is the link:

u/anuhn · 2 pointsr/GolfGTI

Yep, except I bought this

I have this pressure washer

u/Jhubbz86 · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I'm looking into buying a power washer for general use around the house, and for washing my car.

I think my sweet spot is going to be one of these SunJoe's, but I've read they like to use proprietary connectors. I was hoping on using a foam cannon like this MATCC, but it sounds like it won't be that simple.

Have you had any issues with the one you got? Any recommendations on accessories?

u/That1Guy708 · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

MATCC Adjustable Foam Wash Gun 1L Bottle Car Wash Gun Snow Foam Lance With 1/4" Quick Connector
Sale ends May 28

u/phobos2deimos · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I've got the MATCC Foam Cannon - use it with honeydew. Paired with the Powerstroke electric pressure washer that they sell at Costco for $150 it's a great combo without spending crazy money.

u/rexstryder · 2 pointsr/WRX

And just think, some of the suds dripped off BEFORE I got this shot. Here are the links to the Foam Gun/Cannon and the soap:

Foam Gun/Cannon

Soap - Chemical Guys Honeydew Snow Foam

I also grabbed the mitt that was offered with it from Amazon.

I added some soap to the canister with the water to dilute it. I just poured in what I thought was good. My pressure washer is a gas powered Troy from Lowes rated at 2900 PSI.

Hope this helps you out.

u/thisdoescompute · 2 pointsr/Audi

Pressure wash with This pressure washer
Foam cannon from Amazon [Foam cannon]( Adjustable Foam Wash Gun 1L Bottle Car Wash Gun Snow Foam Lance With 1/4" Quick Connector
Then I used regular 2 bucket car wash with grit guard from Amazon, speed shine (2 towels), spray wax, vacuum, interior cleaner, leather conditioner, plastic conditioner, and spray window cleaner.

All the products I use are griots garage... Really good quality stuff.

[Speed shine]('s Garage 11146SP Speed Shine - 35 oz.
[Interior cleaning ]('s Garage 10956 Interior Cleaner - 22 oz.
[Spray wax]('s Garage 10962 Spray-On Wax - 22 oz.
[Wash soap]('s Garage 10866 Brilliant Finish Car Wash - 64 oz.

Just keep going down the griot's line up... High quality all around. Cheers

u/emsantana24 · 2 pointsr/hondainsight


Here’s the best Leather soap

Best conditioner

And ceramic coating for the leather seat is no longer available on Amazon for some odd reason but here’s the link from a different site

ceramic coating for leather

This is of course based on 5 years or detailing my own cars and trying bunch of products. When I’m on the go I use this waterless car wash

u/mikaelp13 · 2 pointsr/TeslaModel3

I use AeroCosmetics waterless... so convenient.

Wet or Waterless Car Wash Wax Kit 144 Ounces. Aircraft Quality for Your Car, RV, Boat, Motorcycle. The Best Wash Wax. Anywhere, Anytime, Home, Office, School, Garage, Parking Lots.

Of course, if heavy dirt, I wash with foam cannon and 2 bucket. But that’s a rarity. Sometimes I just quickly power wash the exterior, bring the car in the garage and use the AeroCosmetics.

u/BlanchDolor · 2 pointsr/mazda

I'm new to the Mazda club as well ('16 CX-5 GT), and I've read on other forums that 303 is very popular for cleaning and protecting vinyl and leather on car interiors.

I just bought some, and plan to test it on the wife's car first to make sure everything checks out :) I'll be interested to hear what others recommend.

u/32F492R0C273K · 2 pointsr/WRX

I've been testing out 303 Aerospace Protectant. I've heard good things and so far it seems to be working great.

Might be worth checking out /r/AutoDetailing .

u/AnonymousWeb · 2 pointsr/Lexus

For exterior and glass, I've been using Aero Cosmetics waterless wash and wax, absolutely amazing slick results. Just wipe on and wipe off.

u/Toastwaver · 2 pointsr/TeslaModel3

Thank you! Are we talking Turtle wax or something like this?


u/TheSpareTir3 · 2 pointsr/GoRVing

Vinyl decals? 303 Aerospace Protectant apply and rub till dry. This will help prevent fade and wear on the decals. It needs to be applied regularly. Be careful what you wash and clean your trailer with, anything that will destroy the plasticizers will cause the decals to crack and fade quickly.

u/clonefriendly · 2 pointsr/GolfGTI

There are a ton of products out there, but THIS for the leather and for pretty much everything else THIS.

EDIT: You can find this stuff in most auto parts stores.

u/pushdose · 2 pointsr/TeslaModel3

Honestly, I just use this stuff, Aero Cosmetics Wash Wax All

Spray on, wipe with damp microfiber, wipe with dry microfiber. Takes me 4 cloths to clean my whole car. Granted, I live in Las Vegas and rarely get anything than dust on my vehicle. It’s really easy and looks great, every time.

u/TheDhan · 2 pointsr/xboxone

I know from detailing to remove dust from something you don't want to scratch, use a Microfiber towel, and a bottle of spray detailer for Cars.

And if you tried other methods and got scratches in the glossy part of the One you can use this to get it out:

u/GoodBoyNYC · 2 pointsr/Hyundai

Yea. I bought something like this at a local autoparts store to polish my some older headlights and even my glossy PS3.

u/Retropixl · 2 pointsr/hardwareswap

I used this Meguiar's G12310 PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish, 10 Fluid Ounces

I think the reason this worked on the 3DS though is because the plastic on the 3DS is a glossy material but if it’s more of a hard plastic I don’t think it’ll work.

u/Isogen_ · 2 pointsr/cars

By polish, I mean using polishing compound preferably designed for plastics/headlights. Something like this:

One more thing, the UV sealant usually says to keep it out of the rain after it's been applied, so if there's any rain forecasted and and you don't have a garage, don't do it until the rain is gone.

u/LarsAlereon · 2 pointsr/NoStupidQuestions

You can fix this long-term (but not completely permanently) with two steps: First, thoroughly clean the headlights using Meguiar's PlastX, which will restore them to brand new shine. Next, apply a layer of Meguiar's Keep Clear Coating, which will keep the headlights from fogging again for up to one year. You can probably use a different brand of coating, but I haven't found anything else that works as well as PlastX.

u/reddituser2006 · 2 pointsr/Ford

This would be worth a try. Works on lots of plastic surfaces.

u/eazye1225 · 2 pointsr/Cartalk

Meguiar's G12310 PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish, 10 Fluid Ounces

u/exxxidor · 2 pointsr/LifeProTips

I just toothpasted my car over the weekend. It does indeed work. Just buy some simple Crest toothpaste with whitener in it. I doubt the chemical compounds of the toothpaste do anything, but what you are getting is a very mild abrasive compound.

Take a spray bottle of water, slather up some toothpaste on a rag and cover the head light and buff and buff and buff. When you think you've ground down the surface layer enough, spray more water on and rinse and wipe clean.

If this doesnt do it, you can step up to something like Bar Keeper's Friend mixed with water for more abrasion. You can also try 1000 & 2000 grit wet sanding, however you have to be careful sanding them as you could make the surface even more rough and cause it to cloud up again more quickly.

Follow it up with some Meguiars Plastic X polish and you should be good to go.

u/dbbldz123 · 2 pointsr/scooters

Is it permanently fogged (plastic damaged) or is this just condensation a.k.a. does it get better with time? If it's the first one you might be able to remove the instrument cluster window and use plastic polish on both sides of the plastic. If it's condensation check to see if gaskets, o-rings, etc that create a seal are in good condition. That's where I'd start at least...

u/DullMan · 2 pointsr/lifehacks

I use this stuff and it works amazingly:

I have a bottle in my trunk, and use it to clean friends and family cars. It takes a very small amount to make the headlight look brand new. I've had the same bottle for a couple years.

u/Chadman108 · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Most of the clay out there is very similar, but there are different grades of clay (read: aggressiveness). Nanoskin is great for the "average Joe" who has a reasonably clean car but needs to decontaminate it, and clay is great for a 100% decontamination job like a very dirty or neglected car.

If you're new to claying... I'd suggest getting this kit, or something similar. It has everything you need as a beginner. I used these all the time when I first started detailing. I finally needed more so I bought in bulk and gallons of lube at a time.

The second thing I'd recommend is getting a small, fine nanoskin sponge. You can try it without dropping $45 for a mitt or pad and see if you like it and the results you get when working with it.

u/futureoldperson · 2 pointsr/mazda3

/r/detailing will tell you to use a clay bar. I've had good results using this one from Mother's. There are tons of videos out there that will tell you how to properly use it.

u/suze_smith · 2 pointsr/LifeProTips

Ever tried a clay bar? Takes a little elbow grease but works like a charm and won't damage your paint. I usually spot wax over any spot I clay bar though, just for the extra protection.
Mothers 07240 California Gold Clay Bar System

u/smoochara · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Noob detailer. Please help to check my rinseless wash process for mistakes and/or advise on existing paint damage.

Started following this sub when I got a nice enough car to care for. It's a Mazda with soul red paint though and seems like every little thing is super visible and the clear coat scuffs when you look at it wrong. I street park in Brooklyn, dust, leaves, pollen, bird bombs and all, every day. Was recommended to adopt ONR rinseless 2 bucket method, researched and tried to follow to the best of my ability.

First, the list of equipment I obtained thus far:

  • 2x buckets + grit guards
  • ONR concentrate (1 Gal. bottle)
  • Big Red Sponge
  • Mother's 07240 Calif. gold clay bar + instant detailer bottle kit
  • Opti-Seal (20239) 8oz. bottle with applicator sponge
  • Costco MF towels
  • Aliexpress stuff: few MF sponges, couple of high gsm/edgeless mf towels to try out.

    Below is the workflow I had going today, so much new stuff to use and new methods, I did not feel in the least bit confident that I did it right. Asking for folks here to review it and point out any mistakes I have made along the way as well as tips to optimize the process for the future:

    I went out to the car with two buckets, each with grit guards, one with 256:1 ONR solution, the other just warm water for rinsing. I started applying ONR solution in straight line motions with BRS one panel at a time starting with the roof>rear window/trunk gate>windshield>hood>front fenders>rear fenders>rear doors>front doors. I do not aim to detail interior or wheels much tbh, but i did dedicate about 6 costco towels to wheel duty by cleaning up the nooks and crannies of the wheels and wheel wells, rinsing them in rinse bucket and never dipping them back into the ONR bucket after first use. Following that, I cleaned and refilled rinse bucket and went back to repeat the panels. Why? Well, the car was very dirty with BRS quickly becoming black with dirt and me switching to costco MF towels to make another two passes over each panel, discarding towels that get visibly dirty on all quarters into laundry pile. I tried folding dirty halves/quarters away and using the Ammo NYC sweep and rotate style to minimize contaminants dragging across paint. Eventually, I felt ready to move onto claying because costco towels and BRS were no longer looking dirty as I passed them across.

    Here is where my confidence and excitement of a new auto detailing convert took a big hit. First of all, I had a superficial but long scratch across the right side which I expected to be possible to mask down with claying>using opti seal, since I could not actually feel it with my fingers. That didn't work at all, although I could tell by doing the ziploc bag drag test that the clayed areas were much smoother than the untreated ones. I used Mother's detailer spray bottle to lubricate, half panel at a time, then slide the pancake shaped clay sideways with no inward pressure until i stopped feeling drag resistance. I added lubricant if I felt clay stop on dry areas.

    I wanted to change pace after failing with masking the scratch, so I started on the inside of the windshield. I made a 10:1 ONR solution in a spray bottle, sprayed it direct onto a high gsm fluffy mf towel from aliexpress and started wiping away at the inside. I then used the flat looking towel (also from aliexpress) to wipe down streaking. I was pretty happy with the results, but unsure if I did something wrong or missed a step. Still, I moved on.

    I then wiped the entire exterior with a clean towel and soaked up the Opti seal applicator, proceeding to apply the stuff one panel at a time and following up with another clean mf towel to wipe off the excess wherever i saw streaking (which was almost everywhere as it was my first time and I wanted to lay a generous protective coating). I got rid of streaking easily, but....

    The result was clean, silky smooth paint, but upon closer inspection, it was covered in etchings from leaves, bird bombs and whatnot. The ONR>instant detailer>clay>opti-seal did not remove it. I did not apply pressure onto paint in affected areas during any of the above procedures, as I was afraid of damaging clear coat even further. Did I need to apply more inward force and scrub down the etched areas once it was cleaned from contaminants? Or the only solution to these spots now is to polish? Here is a picture of one of many etchings. some others are bigger in size, some area smaller, one is shaped like an outline of a small leaf -( . The hood also has some tiny black dots that seem to have a white halo of discolored paint around them ~1mm wide.

  • scratch close up ( (taken with 1:1 macro lens, so looks rather thick, it really isn't)
  • Bird bomb #1 (
  • Bird bomb #2 (
  • Bird bomb #3 (
  • Leaf etching (
  • black dot with white 'halo' discoloration (

    What would be recommendations for me at this point, and what ballpark cost to fix if I am not skilled/dedicated enough to get into polishing myself if that's the route I have to take? I did look over the field guide link for paint damage in the sub wiki section, says etching removal can require up to polishing depending on severity, but I couldn't tell what severity etching I got going tbh.

    Finally, are there any parts of this process that were done wrong or could be done better? Are the instant detailer spray and 10:1 ONR spray different in what they can do, or do they more or less perform same function to lubricate and suspend contaminants on the clear coat? Do I need to somehow strip opti-seal layer every few months to re-clay and re-seal, or just ONR on top and instant detailer spray>spot clay>reapply opti-seal in trouble spots from here on out?
u/sboyerfour · 2 pointsr/GolfGTI

The actual tool I used was Porter Cable's DA Polisher

With that I did:

  • Simple microfiber mitt wash
  • Microfiber towel dry
  • Full body clay bar using this kit

  • All-in-one wax & polish with this, applying with these.

    If you go this route, you'll also need a [hook&loop attachment]
    ( for the polisher. I did a lot of research before landing on what would get me good results with very minimal time. I did the whole thing in about 4 hours, after not having done anything but a normal wash for 3.5 years. about 9 months later, I'm ready for (need) another detailing.
u/merkeyterkey · 2 pointsr/Volkswagen

I wax about every three months. You'll be able to feel when you need a new coat. I also claybar every spring

u/Citecla · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Hey guys i'm new to this detailing scene..but I do hope to learn a lot from everyone! I have an 05' white civic and the exterior isn't terrible, but there's definitely parts where there's medium oxidation and swirl marks. Just overall the paint doesn't feel glossy and smooth, just weathered and feels like metal.

Please let me know if I got the steps correct...any inputs is greatly appreciated!

  1. First do a thorough wash, and dry completely.
  2. Clay bar the entire exterior (I'm going to use
  3. Here's where I don't know what I should I compound or is that not necessary? I'm thinking if I skip compounding, I will use Scratch X (
  4. Then I will Polish with This:
  5. What do you recommend I do next? Could I follow the Mother's 3-step Ultimate Wax starting with this product?

  • By the way, as you see I have attached the pictures...what do I do with the oxidation on the exterior windshield trim?
  • Next, this paint damage, I was thinking to get a touchup paint from the dealership, but how should I apply this?
  • Lastly, whats the most effective way to clean this part..the door jambs?

    Thanks so much for all your suggestions and inputs. I hope to learn a lot from all of you.

    PS. Extra question, I'm doing a roadtrip after the detail...(stupid i know) but what's a good product to get rid of the bug stains while I'm out on the road?

u/kafandi · 2 pointsr/subaru

You'd be surprised, I really didn't use a wide variety, and what I used didn't cost too much. This was a while ago, and I buy so many random cleaning products I don't even remember what all of it was exactly, but:
Really nothing particularly fancy you couldn't pick up at target. That said, I did spend a long time claybarring and waxing. Pretty much went over the entire car twice.

u/video_descriptionbot · 2 pointsr/Hyundai

Title | How to Remove Paint Scuffs On Your Car (Paint Transfer)
Description | How to remove paint scuffs from your car. Learn how to safely remove paint transfer from your car's paintwork without causing any damage to the paint underneath. Foam Abrasive: Dash Camera I use: WD40: Clay Bar: Wax I recommend: Compound: Remove Scratches from Wheels: Top 10 Car Cleaning Mistakes: https:/...
Length | 0:06:05


^(I am a bot, this is an auto-generated reply | )^Info ^| ^Feedback ^| ^(Reply STOP to opt out permanently)

u/Cinder0us · 2 pointsr/Miata

Clay bar is so much work but definitely worth the trouble, I try to do it once a year. 2-3 times a year I'll give it a really good wash, use klasse all in one followed by klasse sealant. Dirt/spots buff off with a microfiber, and I can wash the car very quickly once this is done. It does such a great job of creating that protective layer. It's on the expensive side but you use so little of each product that they will last you quite awhile.

Edit: doh, forgot my claybar brand...mother's

u/ehsu · 2 pointsr/malefashionadvice

Yeah, you'll be fine. It looks like the suede cleaner just stripped all the natural oils out of the leather. Get this or this.

u/travvvvvvv · 2 pointsr/malefashionadvice

Wear them with some thick wool socks and they should be plenty warm. I wouldn't wear them to go hiking in snow or anything, but I think they'd be fine for walking through a slush/snow/icy mix. Treat them with leather conditioner before winter.

u/huntmol · 2 pointsr/malefashionadvice

I recommend the Red Wing Beckman. Good semi-lugged sole that works indoors and out, and can definitely handle the elements once you add some Obenauf's. Also, email Revolve once that this is your first order with them and they'll give you 30% off, which gives these a damn good price/quality ratio.

u/Nwallins · 2 pointsr/CampingGear

I would start with the military boots. Make sure they fit well enough, and go on some smaller hikes to break them in. If there are no problems, go for it. You can always try more expensive boots later.

I would look into some waterproof treatment, though it will cut down on breathability and you can get wet from the inside out, from sweat. e.g.

u/abadonn · 2 pointsr/malefashionadvice

My bushacres are nubuck, I wouldn't oil them.

In general you don't want to over saturate the leather with mink oil. Give it as much as it wants and no more. Too much oil and it can go rancid. A good alternative is beeswax based waterproofing like Obenauf's.

u/NtheBarrio · 2 pointsr/goodyearwelt

I'd be cautious of the boot dryer because dryness ruins leather. Constant moisture does as well, and I doubt consistent wetting and drying is good for leather. You could use Obenauf's LP to waterproof them as well.

u/allannon · 2 pointsr/M1Rifles

That would probably work, but I use this stuff. It's kind of a hard wax, you rub your fingers around a bit and it melts, then you rub it into your leather.

I can't remember if this is per the directions, but I go back the next day and wipe it down with a cotton rag to remove any excess.

u/awubis · 2 pointsr/malefashionadvice

Wow sorry, I could've sworn I replied to this comment. I used Obenauf's Heavy Duty LP. I bought it mainly just to darken my boots, but it doesn't hurt that it also has protective qualities.

u/4ad · 2 pointsr/Romania

Eu folosesc Kiwi 100% Horsehair Shine Brush.

Nu știu dacă e cea mai bună, dar asta folosesc eu și sunt mulțumit. A, da, și mă interesează foarte mult încălțămintea de calitate și am grijă de ea deci nu-s doar un noob care nu știe ce recomandă. Peria asta își face treaba și e ieftină.

Și dacă tot veni vorba, pentru bocanci recomand Fiebing's Yellow Saddle Soap și pentru bocanci negri recomand Obenauf's LP Boot Preservative și/sau Obenauf's Leather Oil.

Săpun doar pentru bocanci, nu pantofi, și Obenauf's stuff doar pentru piele neagră, o să schimbe culoarea altfel. Pentru pantofi sau bocanci la care nu vrei să se schimbe culoarea recomand refined coconut oil.

De evitat orice fel de cremă colorată. Aia e moartea pielii.

u/time_again · 2 pointsr/malefashionadvice

Wow, wonderful find. Seriously envious. Honestly, I would not worry about the damage much, its hardly noticeable. If they were my boots, I'd clean them with warm water, let dry, and condition/protect with Obenauf's. In fact, this is what I do with my boots in northern Vermont.

u/xanroeld · 2 pointsr/malefashionadvice

Was this what you used?

I really love the way they turned out in your photos and I think I want to get them and apply the same wax. Great review btw.

u/TiredOfBeingAwesome · 2 pointsr/malefashionadvice

The crew at styleforum is constantly recommending Obenauf's:


However, on the Wolverine 100 site, they show a video of a guy using Montana Pitch Blend.

I'll end up going with the Obenauf's since it doesn't have mink oil which supposedly can rot the leather over time.

u/JOlsen77 · 2 pointsr/goodyearwelt

This stuff will do the trick

u/nipplemonger · 2 pointsr/goodyearwelt

I'm actually not sure if that's a conditioner or just a leather protector of some sorts, but usually, conditioners are labeled as such. Lexol is what I use, and what is often recommended around here as a general purpose conditioner.

u/rastacola · 2 pointsr/malefashionadvice

I decided to just go with lexol leather conditioner and it's working perfectly. It came highly recommmend in /r/goodyearwelt. Don't use Obernauf's LP unless you want to ruin your boots. Don't use waxes. Oil works well but can be a little harder to work with because of how easily it saturates the leather. If you look around this subreddit you'll see a lot of boots that are drenched when they are oiled. You don't want that. You want a healthy leather.

  • Make sure your boots are dry inside and out. Don't start conditioning our boots if they are sweaty inside from you wearing them. Do it the next day after they were able to sit with cedar shoe trees in them. Also, ALWAYS USE CEDAR SHOE TREES IN YOUR BOOTS.

  • Remove the laces.

  • Brush out all of the dirt and dust with a horse hair brush. Any brand will do.

  • Take a slightly-damp paper tower and do a once over to grab any dirt or dust hanging out. Use a damp Q-Tip and go over the welt. Do not saturate the leather with water, you are just trying to pick up the specks of dirt.

  • Take a tiny bit of lexol and put it only a dry washcloth. Work it into the piece of fabric you are using. You don't want to use it like a paint brush, you want the cloth to just allow a super thin layer of conditioner to be left behind as you wipe your boots. Think like a snail-trail or something ..idk. You're not slathering the conditioner on, you're just putting a super thin coat. Like how you would season a cast-iron skillet (the right way).

  • Slowly apply a thin layer over the boots, making sure to get every nook and cranny. Don't over-condition the boots. They won't be damaged, but it can weaken the leather too much and is unfavorable. Get everywhere including the tongue. Don't bother conditioning the inside, but I like to do the collar.

  • I like to put them on and walk a short lap around the room to help the conditioner settle a bit. I'm not running around, just walking naturally. You'll notice that the creases created from you walking might look unconditioned now. Take the boots off. not hit that spot with a little conditioner in the same manner you've been doing.

  • Take your brush and just gently go over the boot.

  • Put your cedar shoe trees into them and let them sit for at least 12 hours. Don't wear them in the rain for at least 24.

  • If this is your first conditioning, I would do it a month or so after you started wearing your boots. There is a lot of conversation over the frequency of conditioning, but the best thing is to do is use your judgement. If the leather looks like it is getting too dry, re-condition with a tiny bit of lexol. If they get dirty, brush off the dirt thoroughly and maybe go over with a slightly-damp paper towel and consider that dirt dries leather out. You won't need to condition weekly. Some people do it monthly. Some only twice a year. And some neglectful boot-owners never condition them. I think every other month might be a good time frame, but like I said, use your judgement.
u/thenseruame · 2 pointsr/malefashionadvice

Be careful when using oil on shoes and boots. Most of them will darken the leather. If you plan on repeatedly using the boots in heavy snow or rain oil will help weather proof them. Otherwise there isn't any real reason to. Every couple months give the boots a good rub down with a leather conditioner. It'll help keep the leather from drying out and restore some luster.

I like Lexol; it's cheap, it works and it doesn't darken the leather. A jug this size will last you years. Of course there are plenty of options out there, feel free to do the research. There's a lot to learn. Just keep in mind that products containing oil (especially mink) or wax will darken the leather.

Equally important is to get a shoe brush if you haven't already. With five minutes, a brush and a little elbow grease you can get your boots looking great without having to use any product. You don't want to over condition leather as it can weaken it over time.

u/9to5reddit · 2 pointsr/frugalmalefashion

Someone help me understand why this is even a deal? It's more expensive than if you were to purchase these separately.

1 liter Leather Conditioner

1 liter Leather Cleaner

Total is $18.45... and that isn't even a sale price. It could be even cheaper if you do subscribe and save and just cancel the subscription right after it ships.

u/jesterkid01 · 2 pointsr/malefashionadvice

I have always used either Chelsea Leather Food or Lexol Leather Conditioner for my leather goods.

The Chelsea is really popular among soccer players for use on their cleats so it can be found in a reasonable number of sports stores that sell them for around 10 bucks. Make sure you get the clear stuff though.

The Lexol looks like a car care product but it was recommended to me for use on my riding boots and is extensively to keep horse tack from drying out and wearing down. Amazon is selling a liter of the stuff for 12 bucks. Because it is meant to soak in to the leather a bit, it may darken the JCP boots up some, so go with a few even, light coats first rather than just pouring the stuff on.

The Kiwi polish that you can find in drugstores everywhere is plenty good and is pretty cheap at around 3 bucks a tin. I am currently using some Brooks Brothers Shoe Cream which I got as a gift a bit ago and i love the stuff. It is a bit on the 'pricey' side at 9 bucks a jar so it is up to you.

As a last note, I would recommend getting some Saddle Soap for use after youve gone slogging through some less than clean streets and perhaps forgotten to clean your shoes for a bit. It is a great 'once and a while' product to get your shoes clean again and helps to make sure you arent polishing any dirt or grime into the shoe the next time you give them a shine.

u/Schneiderman · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Cool, so if you want to do it yourself, the basic things you need will be a clay bar (often sold as a kit with the "quick detailer" you need as a lubricant- see here). You will need a good number of microfiber cloths throughout the process. And then the main thing, is you need a dual-action polisher.

Popular options for the polisher include Harbor Freight, Porter-Cable, and Meguiar's. A lot of people have good results with the Harbor Freight polisher which you can pick up for, off the top of my head, something like $70. The porter-cable 7424XP is like $120ish, and the Meguiar's MT300 is about $200. Of course, if you wanted to spend more, there's Flex and Rupes, but you don't need any of that for personal use.

With the polisher, you will need pads- in your case, some pretty aggressive cutting pads along with finer polishing and finishing pads. There are a ton of options here. I would recommend at least two of each level of aggressiveness.

And with that, you will need compound and polish. Again, lots of options here, but at the very least you will want one more aggressive type of compound and then a finer type of polish.

You'll also want a couple other things, like a brush and soap to clean your pads with, and I recommend looking into using a diluted alcohol solution to clean between compounding and polishing steps.

I personally am a fan of Meguiar's, and in my opinion their lineup makes thing fairly simple. If you want to go the most cost-effective route, you could still buy the Harbor Freight polisher, and then use meguiar's pads and product (many people say the Harbor Freight pads are garbage, I have never used them so I don't really know).

As an example, you could use the Harbor Freight polisher, with Meguiar's microfiber cutting pads and M105 compound, then Meguiar's foam polishing pad and M205 polish.

There are so many options it's easy to get lost and confused, overall I think as long as you do enough research to understand the process of


it won't make that much of a difference what products you use.

Look up Junkman's series of videos! In one set he stands up and dances on the hood of his car and then shows you how to fix the damage.

u/DMAC55 · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Well I've just started getting together my own kit and felt I HAD to get these:

  1. Meguiar's Clay bars and quik detail spray

  2. Butt-load of microfiber towels

  3. Waffle-weave drying towel

  4. Grit-guards

  5. Iron X wheel cleaner

  6. Industrial Spray bottles

  7. Meguiar's Gold Class car wash soap

  8. Meguiar's Gold Class Wax

  9. Purple Power

  10. Proper wash mitt

    I still feel like there are atleast ten other products that I NEED!

    -Pressure Washer

    -Foam Cannon

    -Detailing brushes

    -Sealants/Compounds combined with a proper rotor drill


u/AverageGuy16 · 2 pointsr/4Runner

My fault forgot to reply to this.

So this is the final polishing boat wax I used. In addition to this I also used this and this. For the clay bar I used Meguirs. For the tire shine I used this.

u/coredumperror · 2 pointsr/teslamotors

Anyone around here got a lot of experience with detailing cars? My Model 3 got covered in thousands of flecks of tree sap a few weeks ago, and while clay barring it over the weekend removed most of it (and finally made my windshield non-dangerous when facing the sun), it didn't quite remove all of the sap. There are still very slight flecks visible in the windshield when looking through it from the inside directly at a light source. It looks like this, but much less pronounced (that photo was taken before the clay bar).

I would love to remove the last of these flecks and bring my windshield back to its pristine transparency from when I got it delivered 2 months ago, but I just don't have a clue what to do. This was the very first time I've ever done clay bar, and I used this product. Maybe a different product would get rid of the last remnants of that sap?

u/hawkens85 · 2 pointsr/videos

First off, the subreddit that inspired me to start cleaning cars: /r/AutoDetailing . They've got some great material there, along with resources, instructions, and more.

First, clean the windshield. If it's not been done in a while, you'll have to do it very well. Prepping the windshield is the most critical part to a good coat of RainX. My preferred method is to begin after washing the car. Get some good glass cleaner, like Stoners, spray it over the windshield, then use a razor blade, holding it at a 45 degree angle to the glass, to scrape down the windshield in and up and down and side to side pattern. This won't scratch the glass, but help remove embedded particles. After you've finished scraping the glass, wipe down the excess window cleaner with a clean microfiber towel. Then use a clay bar to go over the glass one more time. This picks up any additional leftover contaminants left in the glass. Because it's clay, it will want to stick to the glass, so you can use the Stoners as lubrication. Once done, wipe the excess off with a window with some type of glass rag. Now you can apply RainX. Using a microfiber towel folded a few times, put a small amount of RainX in a corner and begin working into the glass (I've seen AmmoNYC use foam from packaging before). Use circular motions and check it from a few angles to make sure you've covered everything. The product should form a "haze" a few seconds after application. A little bit goes a long way with RainX. Some guys recommend turning on your windshield defrosters and running them as hot as possible for a few minutes before applying the RainX, I've not noticed a huge difference. After 5-10 minutes, use a glass towel to begin buffing it off. You can sprinkle a little bit of water on the window during this process to help take it off, but I just stick to the towel. You can apply a 2nd coat immediately after for improved results, but anything beyond that doesn't help. Double check your working by looking at the glass from all angles (inside/outside) to make sure you didn't miss a spot. Enjoy driving in the rain with no need for windshield wipers above 35mph!

Hope this helps. Again, prepping the glass is the most critical part. You're creating a clean surface to put on the hydrophobic materials of RainX. If there's dirt still in the glass, that's something the water can hold on to and not bead off properly.

u/ChickenNuggetTime · 2 pointsr/homemaking

The easiest answer is to avoid spots by hand-drying glassware after washing and thoroughly rinsing them.

For a quick shine before setting the table, a barely/partially damp lint-free cloth should work. Something similar to a car chamois/shammy, perhaps.

If, like me, you have awful hard water leaving heavy deposits on your glassware, it's a bit more involved. I've used a clay-bar kit (mostly out of curiosity) with great results; nothing short of that seems to work, however.

u/liquidh20 · 2 pointsr/Rochester

i have this stuff to clay

and alright i think i got it, its about 100 but at least i can do it multiple times. i guess the whole thing is going to take a couple of hours

u/Thats_a_lot_of_nuts · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Also, you might want to check out this video, it pretty much covers the whole process, using the same products in the Blackfire kit:

u/CleanFlow · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

>Whistles That is one NICE looking hood, you almost have me drooling on what the truck could look like. Ok so!

>1st: Nice two bucket cleaning

>2nd: Clay the car. was thinking of ordering this. From what I picked up from that Porsche 912 video in the sub and from the sidebar, I spray the clay lubricant on, then with little to no pressure wipe back and forth with the clay in a 18"x18" area. Does that sound right?

>3rd: Acquire rubbing compound and hopefully a DA polisher. (By the way if getting a DA polisher isn't possible, is this still attainable by hand?)

>4: Nice coat of wax

>How does that sound?

Correct. A 2-bucket wash will get most of the dirt off while not marring the paint any further than it already is.

Also, that is a very good clay kit. I will pre-warn you, claying is the absolute worst part of the job. It's rewarding afterward, but such a pain. If you want, there is stuff called "nanoskin" that has pretty much the same effect as clay but it requires a lot less effort. Check Amazon for "nanoskin fine grade sponge." It's like 11 bucks. Note that you'll still need to buy a quick detailer like the one in the clay kit for general purpose spray, so you may want to go for the clay kit. Get nanoskin when you're a little more familiar with detailing.

As you rub the clay, be sure it's well lubricated so the clay just glides. You will feel resistance to the gliding until the clay picks up all the grime. Then the clay will flow smooth. That's when you knead it and move to a new section.

If you choose to go DA polisher, beware that there are a lot more purchases that go along with it. You'll also need a backing plate and pads. That can become pricey. Polishing is attainable by hand, but very time-consuming. I'd recommend going panel by panel, day by day with hand method. Claying an entire car, then hand polishing it will make you want to never touch a car again haha.

I recommend you wash and clay the roof, then polish and wax. On a different day, do the same to the hood. The next day, tackle a quarter-panel. This will keep you sane.

u/WheelWhiffCelly · 2 pointsr/GolfGTI

Meguiar's smooth surface clay kit. First time claying for me so take what I say with several grains of salt haha. Seemed to work pretty well, I did have to really focus on certain spots though (I think I had some sort of adhesive or glue from the dealership days)

u/mocruz1200 · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

as a classic car owner, Mothers Mag and Aluminium polish

nothing comes even close to it.

u/Symz58 · 2 pointsr/Harley

I bought 00 and 0000. Only used the 0000 because I wanted to take the least metal off. You have to cut into the metal though you will see small lines that don't look good until polished. You will see the tarnish disappear.

Chrome though, I didn't even need to polish. Brushed it with the steel wool rust came off and it was shiny and perfect looking.

Wool Grades

Steel Wool first. Then i used a aluminium/mag polish called Mothers.

Idk about the bottom of the forks at least on my bike that finish is different. But all the cross members on the forks shined up right

u/dicks1jo · 2 pointsr/headphones

Man... that raw aluminum makes me want to take some Mothers to it... could probably achieve a mirror finish.

u/SubtleLizard · 2 pointsr/GolfGTI

Mothers 05101 Mag & Aluminum Polish - 10 oz.

This works perfectly for me!

u/notnotTheBatman · 2 pointsr/knives

You can polish the blade with mothers mag polish or somthing simular, and you can patch the handle with sugru

u/Mcflyguy · 2 pointsr/Mid_Century
u/thatstickerguy · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

Use something like this.

u/azurekiwi · 2 pointsr/Vaping

> For batteries, I'm using some efest IMR 18650s, do you think a different battery would make a noticeable difference?

eFests and mechs do not go well together, that being said hopefully you have one of the 20 amp rated ones, but it's still likely a poor choice for a mechanical device. Before buying the mod or at the same time you should have bought at least two of these, which currently is the cheapest price out of the three known trustworthy vendors for authentic cells.

You should read more into mechanical mods if questions like this are ones you need to ask, not meaning to be rude. Using an ohms law calculator at 4.2v you're going over 1a of what hopefully is the rating of your battery (if you have the 12a then this is actually not safe) but your mod will be pulling less with voltage drop. You should be calculating for 4.2 though to give yourself some headroom for safety. Especially if you threw an efest into a mech. I apologize if I come off condescending, it's not my goal at all, it's just with mechanical mods the battery is possibly one of the most important things to know how many amps you have to work with and you should never use rewraps in a mech. There's other batteries with lower ratings people use but honestly, I don't see any reason to when the VTC5a exists, is available, and possibly the all around best battery for vaporizers in general. In regulated devices you can sacrifice that extra cdr for some more battery life but in this situation the CDR is going to be a major determining factor in building safely and knowing what is safe and isn't as you need this for ohms law calculation.

Use the 510 pin cap for now because the more safety involved currently the better. Also if you didn't already know make sure to religiously check your battery wraps for any nicks or tears. With your mod you do have the delrin insulation I believe, but honestly if there's a tear or any damage to the wrap just rewrap it to be safe, you really don't want a short to happen and I don't want to see you on the news.

If there's any other questions that you're hesitant to ask, you may as well, because I'd rather help clear some things up or show you areas in which to read more so you know how to use what you have as safe as possible, and with efest batteries it worries me that there may be some things you may have missed.

Tldr: order these and don't use the efests. 2 of them should be fine unless you plan on using it as a main device in which 4 may be a safer bet, but 2 should be fine. Plus you're still learning some things it seems to there's no reason to use a potentially risky rewrap with false ratings when something like that is so cheap, and performs so well.

edit: I use Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish for my mech mods, they're copper but I want to say that works well for brass too. Theres videos on how to properly polish if you are unsure. You want to wash it off after you use that though so you prevent potential damage to your device by leaving some of it behind. Pick up battery wraps and insulators as well, you're going to need these if you vape regardless and with mechanical mods you should have some ready to go as soon as any damage to the wrap happens. They're dirt cheap and it's easy to do, again there's youtube videos that show how to rewrap 18650s. Don't get them mixed up with other batteries though afterwards, as you don't want to throw a 15a battery into that thinking it's 25a and pulling too much power from it than the cell can handle.

Hybrid mode is more conductive but at this stage in the game I would use the topcap with the 510 pin instead. You likely won't notice a dramatic difference and it's safer for now.

Also you will probably have better luck with simple round wire builds than things like claptons simply due to ramp up time. Especially since at the moment if you continue to use that without the batteries I linked, you want to pulse it as little as possible. I am erring on the side of caution but if I am aiming for what's safest for you right now and until you learn all you should have known before buying a mech, you probably should too. Either way though, I find simple round wire builds are better in the builds I have tried compared to the fused claptons I gave a shot once. I don't like ramp up time though and even if you look at a lot of way people who are "sponsored" build you will see half the time they are still using basic round wire builds too. They just work and are simple.

u/jmack428 · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Hi All!

My family owns a heating oil delivery business and we pride ourselves on having the cleanest and best looking trucks around.

To polish the tanks, we use Mother's Aluminum polish ( applied by hand (to avoid swirls, I'm told)

I was wondering if you guys could shed some light on a best approach to keep these looking like a mirror finish? Could a DA polisher be used? Is there a better product than the aluminum polish? Should we be waxing the tanks as well?

Here are a couple of pictures:

Thanks for any tips! I know this is a little unique since it's metal instead of paint!

u/adunham1 · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

Depends on how bad. I've used Autosol products for aluminum oxidation with pretty good results. It's not super cheap, though. Also, some Mothers Mag Aluminum Polish works well if the surface is pretty clean.

It's hard to say without seeing the pipes, but heavy rust is usually really difficult to remove as the metal has physically changed. Feel free to send a picture of your pipes, though!

u/hyperdream · 2 pointsr/audio

Sure, awesome find by the way.

After removing all the tubes I wiped it down a few times with just a damp cloth to get the heavy dust off. The real pain is getting rid of the sticky yellowed smoke film that most old tube gear has. The best thing I've found to get rid of it is Zep All Purpose Cleaner. It's green and can be found at Home Depot. The nice thing about it is that you apply it, wait five to ten minutes and gently wipe it off. It takes the grime with it and leaves lettering. Keep it up until the surface is clean and your rag isn't lifting up any nasty yellow anymore. You still have to be careful, if you rub too much or apply too much or leave it on too long it will lift lettering, but it's the most forgiving product I've come across in that respect. I was pretty lucky with this one as it hadn't been smoked around that much.

For the aluminum tube covers I used Mothers metal polish. They transform from dull grey to almost a mirror finish without too much effort. I went a little nuts with the Mothers and polished as much of the steel as I could, like the tuning pot cover (while trying to keep the stickers), the sides of the chassis, and the aluminum capacitor cans. This album shows a before and after.

I removed the face panel, soaked it in Zep first and then used Blue Magic Quick Shine metal polish. I also used Zep on the back but didn't do much else since there's so much lettering around all of the connections that I didn't want to remove it. I soaked the knobs in Zep, used Brasso to shine up the caps, and then used a paper towels and a small stiff brush to get all of the Brasso out of the plastic grooves. I was lucky with the dial glass, it wasn't dirty enough that it need to be removed, I just used Zep and then Windex on the front. If you do remove it, be very careful with the lettering, it comes off easily... I'd only use a damp cloth.

After I fired it up I found I had some dirty switch pots, so I squirted them with a little Deoxit and worked them back and forth. I also used a little clock oil on the pots.

I bought a kit from this guy to replace components. There are plenty of forums (I prefer with information and willing members to assist if you want to do it yourself, but the kit takes a bit of the guess work out of it. My album shows everything that was replaced. Basically, it's every capacitor that could go bad and affect the sound, modifying the de-emphasis to modern standard, lowering the voltage (These fishers run crazy hot and eat output tubes at their original voltage), and making it a little safer to operate.

I had to replace the plastic antenna straps which had crumbled from age, one of the brass knob caps that was missing, 3 out of the 4 lightbulbs, and 9 tubes.

I then put the tubes back in and brought it slowly up on a variac for about 3 or 4 hours to reform the can caps. I still have some polishing work on it, but it's pretty much done and sounds great.

Have you powered up your 500B? Is it complete? Pictures?

u/overaname · 2 pointsr/mazda

I use Meguiar's Gold Class for soap and in this picture I used Meguiar's Spray Wax as a drying agent.

My very first wash a few weeks ago I used HydrO2 for a longer lasting hydrophobic sealant.

u/SouthernAutoSpa · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Depends on your budget. I use CarPro Reset shampoo as it cleans extremely well. However, you can also use Meguiars Gold Class and it does quite well. For wax, I would stay away from paste waxes. Find a good liquid wax as it spreads thinner which makes removal easier. Alternatively, if you want the same protection, if you do order from CarPro, pick up their Hydr02 Lite, which is a spray sealant that lasts just as long as wax. Just spray it on while wet, and rinse with high pressure. Protection for 3-4 months. Links below:

Reset -

Hydr02 -

Meguiars Gold Class -

You can get CarPro from Amazon but its more expensive. Hope this helps!

u/kswiss996 · 2 pointsr/bikesgonewild
u/uptimefordays · 2 pointsr/goodyearwelt

Idiot proof shoe care. Don't use this on shell, don't put it on the outside of suede shoes. I've been told you can condition the inside of suede others have suggested no care is necessary.

u/redditmakesyoudumb · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I'm fairly new, myself. I've driven clunkers most of my life. Spent about five years downtown where I didn't have a car. Now I'm back in suburbia, so I've got a brand new GTI, and it's the first one I've ever cared to take good care of. Here's what I started with:

u/cryogen · 2 pointsr/S2000

Try a leather cleaner and conditioner combo.

I use this stuff it's cheap and works great.

u/juicyjuicyjuicyjuicy · 2 pointsr/RedWingShoes

FWIW, I'm planning on using Lexol as well. I too recently got the 8119's and after reading hours of guides and opinions on leather conditioning, it seems that Lexol is the best for what I want, which sounds like what you want too - moisturize the leather without fucking up the color too much.

Amazon's got a good kit for $12 Prime.

u/beardpudding · 2 pointsr/Leathercraft

The chair looks to be in pretty good condition as it is. I would just give it a once over with some lexol cleaner then conditioner. Depends on your usage, but it shouldn't need more than one application a year.

u/BeardedT · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I the like yellow chemical guys towels that are sold on Amazon for budget towels.

u/mzarif · 2 pointsr/BMW

edit: Ah crap I gave you the cheap option..

Harbor Freight Dual Action Polisher ~$70

4 x Harbor Freight Orange Compound Pads ~$5ea

1 x Bottle Optimum Hyper Polish

1 x 3" Backing Plate ~$13

2 x 3" Griots Garage Compound Pads (also auto geek)

a pack of these

u/Scrace89 · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I buy the yellow microfibers that CG makes on amazon, because CG's customer service is TERRIBLE (if not the worst I've ever experienced with any business).

They aren't the best quality, but they are decent:

u/giant_tacos · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

has anyone ever use the chemical guys professional grade micro fiber before like these how are they i know a lot of people here recommend the rag company towels but i live in Canada so when i went to order from there it was $30 shipping

u/Redditor_of_Rivia · 2 pointsr/Flipping

No sweat! Glad the damp rag seemed to work out well. I bought these microfiber cloths a while back that I use to clean up all my flips. They work great and don't shed any lint at all. Great for cleaning up shoes and getting into all the nubs on the bottom.

u/LagunaGTO · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing
u/DEEPfrom1 · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Unless you specially needclay, go with Nanoskin (AS-019) AutoScrub Fine Grade Sponge

u/hellul · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Don't use just water.

You can pickup blue ONR which you can use as clay lube, detailer, rinseless wash depending on the dilution with your distilled water.

Clay lube: ratio 1:64 or 2 oz/1 gallon

Those types of clay do the job and some people perfer it to traditional clay. I haven't heard of that brand, but i'm sure its the same stuff. I personally have little sponge from Nanoskin.
I like this better than that "towel" since this has a nice grip.

u/Tomimi · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Get a Megs105 or Ultimate Polish (since its a beater I expect the paint is in need of compounding) $10

If you don't want to compound maybe a wax cleaner, its milder, cheaper and you could probably 1-step your car with it but don't put your expectations high because it only removes mild oxidation and some swirls. $7

If you need a backing plate, go get a 5 inch one $10, you need it

Get an CCS Orange Pad from lake (8-10)

Meguires Gold Class Wax on Target/walmart/amazon $10

I almost forgot but you need to clay before you start the magic and the cheapest one and most awarding one I know is this that's like $11.

Invest a few more dollars and if you want your money back you could always clean your friends car for a few bucks.

u/growamustache · 2 pointsr/f150

I agree with everyone that it's rail dust, or just iron particulates that get embedded in to your clear coat. initial removal will take care of most of it, but know that with a white vehicle, it'll show up occasionally, even with waxing.

Instead of plain clay bar, I'd recommend getting a nano-skin. works like clay bar, but much easier to use (you can drop it and simply rinse it off). I just use any quick detail spray as a lube.


u/Marxs33 · 2 pointsr/4Runner

Your new best friend for garage washes in the winter.

Optimum (NR2010Q) No Rinse Wash & Shine - 32 oz.

u/AlecW81 · 2 pointsr/Volkswagen

Mist the spots with a 50:50 blend of distilled white vinegar and DISTILLED water.

Wipe with a clean dry MF towel.

If you have hard water from your taps, I’d recommend switching to a rinseless wash with Optimum No Rinse Wash and Shine.

If you’re only washing 1 vehicle, you just need 1 gallon of distilled water in a bucket and .5oz of ONR and either the Optimum Big Red Sponge, or a fair number of decent MF towels (google the Garry Dean method).

ONR is all I use to wash my VW, my wife’s 4Runner, and my Dad’s Lexus.

Rinseless is the way to go. Saves time, saves water, better for the environment.

r/autodetailing if you want to learn more (read the wikis before posting questions)

u/Tru_Killer · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Pick up some Optimum No Rinse. Most useful and versatile stuff ever. Quick detailer dilution ratio is 1:16.

u/Stealthattack00 · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Optimum No Rinse(ONR) is a rinseless wash product that can, in certain situations, replace the standard 2 bucket method. It is diluted with water than worked over the car one section at a time with a microfiber cloths. Other uses include dilution for spray lubricant or quick detailer.

I have not used it personally but it is a very recommended product especially for those with difficult access to hose water.




u/JayyMei · 2 pointsr/TeslaLounge

Optimum (NR2010Q) No Rinse Wash & Shine - 32 oz.

u/slyboy889 · 2 pointsr/GolfGTI

Have you ever tried rinse-less carwash? I live in an apartment complex without a car washing bay and it has saved my life. Super easy to use and all you need is a bucket of water and a good amount of microfiber towels!

u/YMarkY2 · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing
u/DJ_Rupty · 2 pointsr/mazda3

I am also hose-less and garage-less, so I've been using this rinseless wash, good microfiber cloths (about 5 to do the whole car), and a large chemical guys microfiber towel to dry. If the car is pretty dirty you're going to want to spray it off at a car wash to prevent swirling of the paint. I've been using 303 to finish off the interior and black magic to clean the tires/wheels when i go to spray the car off at the car wash.

u/Checkers10160 · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Interesting, so I guess I will save the bays for actual dirt and grime then.

So I will need a bucket, some ONR wash (Is this diluted with water?), a drying aid, and a drying towel. What exactly is a drying aid, is that like a product?

Will these works?


NO.1 Wash mitts

NO.1 Drying Towels

Also, you said you do a quick 10 minute wipe down, is that the process you use? Or do you have another touch up product or something?

Thank you by the way!

u/ChuckTupper · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Like ultragib said, the green stuff has wax in it. You're looking for the blue stuff if you want to wax as a separate step.

u/MeIsMyName · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I picked up my bottle of it on amazon. Presently it's about $17 a bottle. I'm sure the pricezombie will chime in on price history...

EDIT: Just curious, where did you find it locally?

u/funbob · 2 pointsr/ft86

Absolutely you want to start taking care of it properly it right away, start with a with a high quality, non greasy UV protectant spray.

u/totmacher12000 · 2 pointsr/GolfGTI

I don’t own a GTI yet. But I have been using this stuff on my cars for a while now and it’s amazing 303 (30313-CSR) UV Protectant Spray for Vinyl, Plastic, Rubber, Fiberglass, Leather & More - Dust and Dirt Repellant - Non-Toxic, Matte Finish, 32 Fl. oz.

u/gazoonie · 2 pointsr/GolfGTI

No problems here. I open mine almost every day as long as weather permits. We've had a bit of rain here in Salt Lake, but not much and I haven't noticed any leaks, but I also haven't gone looking to see if any water is pooling.

I've read that treating the seals with 303 will keep them from drying out which can be part of the reason they start to squeak.

u/norn_necro · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I drive a 15' BRZ and live in FL

I see 303 get a lot of good reviews on how nice their interiors look after applying. Is 303 a cleaner or just a UV protectant? Am I better off buying something like Chemical Guy's Interior Detailer and Protectant? or Meguiar's

I keep my interior pretty clean. I do a quick dust wipe with a microfiber every few days so the dust doesn't build up. And every few weeks I'm looking to wipe it down and touch it up with an interior detailer and was wondering which one is preferred.

u/Hasselbuddy · 1 pointr/IKEA

The standard for leather care (the only cleaner & conditioner I've ever seen stocked at leather supply stores) is Lexol.

Amazon Link

u/bigburpsx3 · 1 pointr/malefashionadvice

Thanks for the feedback on sizing. It feels good enough considering my oddly shaped feet. I'll look into the brands that you mentioned!

When people say to use Lexol, is this what they're referring to?

u/Flamewire · 1 pointr/malefashionadvice

Roughly these, though I bought them a year and a half ago before I knew about proper care.

I'm currently thinking this leather care kit, a horsehair brush, and mink oil

u/Mr_Soju · 1 pointr/Mid_Century

Get yourself some Lexol leather cleaner and condition. Link

This stuff is absolute magic and used for car interiors, shoes, bags, or anything leather. I use it on my Plycraft replica (real leather) as well as my Red Wing shoes. A lot of the leather cleaners/conditioners or Internet Knowledge is extremely overboard for leather care. The users at /r/goodyearwelt and /r/malefashionadvice swear by this stuff for leather care.

You will not harm or discolor the leather on the chair at all. There's some kind of magic sauce in it. From the Amazon link

  • Lexol pH-balanced Cleaner is purely a cleaner. NO silicones, alcohols, waxes, oil, or additives to interfere with its cleaning action or to cause dirt to be trapped in the leather.

  • Lexol Conditioner leaves no greasy residue and it contains no harmful silicon ingredients which dry out leather over time. Lexol Conditioner results in supple, strong, and beautiful leather.
u/Vaeltaja · 1 pointr/goodyearwelt

This Lexol pack look any good? Or should I just stick to the conditioner? What is "leather cleaner"? Just like a more mild saddle soap or like Saphir Renomat?

u/Noozooroo · 1 pointr/goodyearwelt

I finally got my Iron Rangers in Copper Rough & Tough in. What leather conditioner should I use? Should I get this Lexol kit or Red Wing's leather conditioner?

Also, what kinds of suede brushes do you guys recommend?

u/havensk · 1 pointr/malefashionadvice

Are these your only boots or do you have another pair to rotate out? If you let the leather rest every few days they will maintain their shape and you'll be less prone to wrinkles and deterioration. Either way you should be wiping off any excess water, salt, or slush and using a leather cleaner when needed and a conditioner every 3-6 months. Here's the stuff I use personally.

If you are literally walking through heavy snow then I would look into weather dressing the beckmans. But be forewarned that it IS going to darken the leather and will diminish the depth of the leather color. Here are three examples of the darkening of the leather. Please read the comments too as there are helpful bits of info in there. Obenaufs carries a Heavy Duty Leather Protector and a leather oil.

I don't have a perfect yes/no answer for you. I live in the Midwest US and have a pair of Iron Rangers that I don't intend to treat other than with conditioner. We can get some bad winters here but I'll just take my chances. I also plan on picking up a pair of waterproof boots so that I have something to switch out with the IRs.

u/TheGloriousLurker · 1 pointr/goodyearwelt

Would you suggest me getting the lexol leather care kit or just the lexol conditioners? Is the cleaner necessary?

u/ShmerpDaPurps · 1 pointr/malefashionadvice

Just got the Red Wing Iron Ranger 8083 the other day. Would something like this work for leather care? What kind of brush should I get? What else do I need to know?


u/needabelt99 · 1 pointr/goodyearwelt

This sub recommended me to use Lexol for my new Iron Rangers. Is this the package I should be going with? Or a Lexol spray? Thanks!

u/CrydamoureContemode · 1 pointr/goodyearwelt

SQ: Is there anything I else I should be doing to care for my 1ks?

Sorry the pictures might not be the best to judge. Got these as 2nds from STP a while back.

Shortly after purchase, had a local cobbler add half soles.. for some reason he dressed the edges using black polish or something, which eventually wore away.

I'm wondering if he also tried to buff and polish the uppers or something, because I feel like the wear around the toe showed up shortly thereafter and I don't really beat things things up as much as they look like I do.

Half soles started coming off not too long after, definitely not using that cobbler again, haha. Not too worried about the soles though, at some point I'll probably hit up B.Nelson or something for a proper fix.

I'm much more worried about the uppers, so far I've given them the occasional cleaning and conditioning with this basic lexol kit which I mainly got for my Beckmans (which are holding up much better, haha). Should I grab VSC or Pure Neatsfoot or something instead?

I'm thinking I might like something to darken the leather, right now they're a little chalky looking.

Any advice? I've been doing a lot of lurking and searching over the past year but I still feel pretty clueless.

u/grim_f · 1 pointr/RedWingShoes

Lexol Leather Cleaner and Conditioner and Sponge Kit, For Use on Leather Apparel, Furniture, Auto Interiors, Shoes, Handbags and Accessories

u/jt2888 · 1 pointr/malefashionadvice

A good place to start is with some conditioner. Every 2 or 3 months or so it is good to condition your boots, lexol works well:
Visit /r/goodyearwelt for more care info

u/LadyPseudonymia · 1 pointr/SexToys

Leather just takes a bit of work (and extra maintenance), to be honest. The best brief leather harness guidelines I've found: "Leather can be cleaned with soap and water, with leather cleaner or saddle soap. Allow to air dry for at least 24 hours. Use leather conditioner to keep the leather soft and supple. Never soak leather."

You might check out a leather-specific cleaner plus conditioner pack. Works best with a microfiber cloth. The conditioner is only necessary occasionally.

u/GalactusAteMyPlanet · 1 pointr/goodyearwelt

I assume I should be using this for the cleaner and conditioner?

u/Capitano_Barbarossa · 1 pointr/goodyearwelt

I bought this exact listing from Amazon. It comes with a pad and the Lexol has instructions on the package as far as application, but it isn't too tough. Just make sure the leather is clean, and try pouring like a quarter-sized amount onto the cleaning pad. You can work up from there if you want to use more at one time. The good thing about Lexol is you can wipe off excess with a clean cloth (I use a spare washcloth) and no harm done.

Personally, I wipe down first with an old rag, then use the cleaner if needed (usually isn't). Then I brush, use the conditioner, and let it sit a while. Then I wipe clean and let it sit for a while again. It's kind of a superstitious process to be honest. If you're conditioning your leather on a schedule and using shoe trees, you're already doing way more than the average person.

Remember that the Lexol WILL darken your leather a little. I tried to show some comparisons in my original post. But the coconut oil will be more in my experience.

Edit: I actually bought the "Like New" version via an Amazon Warehouse deal to save a couple bucks. it was basically just an open box item. Neither bottle had been opened.

u/roastpuff · 1 pointr/Trucks

Lexol makes some really good stuff. I like their cleaner and conditioner.

u/MTLNewStadium · 1 pointr/baseball

I used Lexol for my brand new glove last year and then, play catch a lot. I saw a video on YouTube about it and give it a chance.

This product is great, you can even use it regularly to clean the glove.

I highly recommend it.

u/Fubs261 · 1 pointr/goodyearwelt

I've been lurking for a while but finally made an account to ask this:

I decided to go with Red Wing Beckmans (9023) as my first high-quality footwear purchase. I also purchased a Kiwi 100% Horsehair Shine Brush, a Lexol 907 Leather Care Kit, and Woodlore Adjustable Men's Shoe Tree (Cedar).

My first question is: how should the shoe trees fit into my Beckmans? I went to a Red Wing store and got sized. They said I have wide feet and recommended I get 8.5 (I usually wear 8.5s in regular footwear like Van's and Nike). I purchased the 8.5 Beckmans and I've worn them about 8 times now. Out of paranoia, I double checked with the Red Wing store to see if the boots were creasing properly (as I have a lot of toe space and was worried that it might be too big). They assured me that It was fine. I ordered size medium (8-9.5 size) and They arrived yesterday. I inserted them into the boots but noticed that it was pretty difficult to get them in there and the heel of the shoe tree scratches against the heel of the boot when inserting. I notice if I wiggle the front of the shoe trees in a bit more before inserting the heel, it doesn't scratch the heel of the boot. I apologize if the picture quality is poor , I only have my phone at this time. Is this okay for my Beckmans? Or should I return these for a different shoe trees? I'm worried about them being stretched improperly. If I should get different ones, can someone direct me to a specific shoe tree? Here are some pictures of my 9023s with the shoe trees.

My second question is, do I need any other care products than the ones I listed above? My care regime currently will be to brush after each use, shoe trees for a minimum of 1 day before next wear, Lexol clean and condition once a month and/or after they get really dirty.

u/Robochan · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Are the Eurow 350gsm good? What gsm would the griots blue towels be? Can i get a mircofiber comparable to the griots for $2 each or am i crazy? How do detailers have boxes of towels that cost like $6 each?

Edit: These look promising but i really want to have some one with hands on experience guide me.

u/kocsenc · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

So I decided to go for it and take better care of my car detail. Want to make sure I'm not crazy with some questions.


  1. Because of the efficiency of pressure washing, I've decided to make my routine cleaning a rinse, foam cannon, wash, rinse, dry. Is that good enough for routine wash?
  2. I have a Wolfgang paint sealant in my garage which I'll apply as a LSP when I'm confident enough, i haven't seen it recommended on the wiki, am I making a mistake with it?
  3. Is it ok to use microfiber towels instead of a mitt for washing?
  4. I've been watching this guys video where he claims using a high pH soap to strip everything and always re-sealing/re-waxing Meguiars spray wax is the way to go. He claims that over time debris gets melded _with_ the wax and so it's better to strip it all out. What are your thoughts?
u/r4x · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

I actually LOVE the chemical guys gold MF towel

I've used many different types of towels and these just suit me the best. They're cheap enough ( I got a pack of 12 for $16 so I bought as many as I could afford.)

They last a long time with proper care but ate cheap enough that I'm not afraid to toss them when necessary. Enjoy!

u/dr_pepper_ftw · 1 pointr/BMW

If they do they are usually expensive or if they are complimentary then they are abused and could damage your paint / clear coat. I recently picked up a 12 pack off Amazon and am happy with the quality

Remember to not use the foaming brush

u/FagReducingTaskForce · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

I had this issue and aside from a tool to get in the corners, you really are simply lacking in good microfibers. Once I bought some good ones for the first time in my life, I realized how crucial towels are in the whole equation of detailing. These are the ones I bought which are just great, in fact the best mf towels I own currently:

u/drewkiimon · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Looking to buy my first real car towels. Are these worth?

Chemical Guys MIC_506_12 Professional Grade Premium Microfiber Towels, Gold (16 Inch x 16 Inch) (Pack of 12)

u/Rikers_Mojo · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

These chemical guys towels have worked really well for me. Combined with their microfiber wash, they’ve stayed very soft and clean.

Chemical Guys MIC_506_12 Professional Grade Premium Microfiber Towels, Gold (16 in. x 16 in.) (Pack of 12)

u/ATRAZiiNE · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

What kind of towels do you use to dry?
I typically use these but not sure if it would be the best for my car

u/Nagare · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Because of the Prime Day deals I decided to pick up a few different products without knowing too much. I bought: Optimum No Rinse, Mothers Clay Bar System, Microfiber Clothes, Liquid Wax Paint Sealant, and Hybrid Wax.

My quick understanding is that the recommended process is: wash > clay > wash > wax. In terms of these products, does that mean:

ONR wash > Mothers Clay (should I use their lube or just the ONR water?) > ONR wash > Liquid Wax > Hybrid Wax

Just want to make sure I follow the right order so I can start to keep my car in good shape. How often should I clay? What about the sealant and the wax?


u/ming3r · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Just throwing these out there as another option.

u/timbotx · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing


I've read the wiki and its a huge resource. Thank you to all who put it together!

Some of the product reccommedations are unavailble on Amazon so I just wanted to ask a few questions with regards a brand new car I bought and see if these products are whats needed:

So firstly, washing the exterior of the car:

I have Meguiars Gold class wash, I have two buckets, and grit guards, I will do the two buckets method. Now do I dry the car with:

this: or


Once I have washed the outside and dried it with the towels, I then apply the wax, I will be using #845 - can I use these to apply it:

I know I needs to get a clay bar or a micro sponge I'm just not sure where/how this fits into the process, what items do I need to buy


Lastly, I am buying this window cleaner -

Is it safe to use inside and out? I would imagine spray directly on outside windows and just use some microfiber towels like this - to clean it off? On the inside I would imagine spraying directly onto the cloth would be better.

Do I clean the outside windows after the car has been cleaned and waxed?

I understand the basic process and with this being a new car I want to be 100% I'm doing the right thing, I fully intend on washing it every other week and taking great care of it!



u/alwaysready · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

id drop the creme glaze and get a wax instead (if budget is a problem?). meguiars gold class wax is a cheap but very effective wax.

youll need about 3 cutting pads, 3 polishing pads, and 2 wax/sealant pads.

32 oz of compound and polish is a lot. if budget is a problem, you can do a lot of cars with the 8 oz bottles.

you might want to consider getting just the nanoskin sponge instead of the mitt and a regular microfiber wash mitt. it will be cheaper and you dont need to clay every wash.

ONR is good, but since you can use soapy water as a lube with the nanoskin, you might want to just get a good quick detailer instead. it helps with drying the car too.

u/Waxy_OConnor · 1 pointr/FocusST

Sounds like you need a clay bar. Or my favorite, a Nanoskin sponge.

u/popsicle_of_meat · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

How sticky/tacky should my nanoskin sponge be? After doing the recommended break-in, I never got the white or foam/bubbles they described and it is definitely not tacky. At the edges of the rubber, it sticks a little, but the overall face of it never changed.

u/TrevCostales · 1 pointr/TeslaLounge

Can you feel anything when you move your fingers over it? It may be worth asking r/AutoDetailing. Another option is to use a nanoskin which works like a clay bar.

u/hydrogen_wv · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Just get something from a reputable brand. Meguiar's is good and readily available. Another option you have is using a Nanoskin sponge, which does the same thing as clay, but can be re-used and can be rinsed off if you drop it on the ground, where with clay, if you drop it that piece of clay is done.

u/peanutbuttergoodness · 1 pointr/TeslaLounge

I’ve heard bad things about the clay mitts. Supposedly they fall apart instantly. Try this guy : Nanoskin (AS-019) AutoScrub Fine Grade Sponge I spray the car heavily with ONR (two cap fulls into a 32 ounce spray bottle, fill the rest with water). Then I brush every section both horizontally an MF vertically with this sponge. If you drop the sponge just dip it in a bucket of water to get everything off. Smooth as glass afterwards. Top it off with some Collinite 845 and your whip will be looking tippy top!!

u/akn5 · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

I personally have only used the Nanoskin sponge to decontaminate my car. It's a highly recommended clay alternative.

As for a sealant/wax, I'm not sure if my recommendations will be of any use since I just started detailing my own car over the last ~6 months. I have only tried one wax (Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid Wax) and one sealant (Opti-Seal). Longevity of the Ultimate Liquid Wax wasn't great IMO. I'd look into Collinite 845 since it's highly regarded and there are plenty of tips/tricks on how to use it.

Honestly, easiest solution may be go to with CarPro Essence or HD Speed. I don't think there are any special tips/tricks on how to use Essence or HD Speed, and both will allow you to polish and seal your paint in one step. Admittedly, I haven't looked into either much, but they are next in line for me to research.

u/xMico1236 · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Yes you can use that one, I actually have this one. I bought a two pack in case something happens with one so I'll have one on hand.

The interior was easy. Vacuum, wiped down with Nextzett Cockpit Premium, and dressed some parts with 303. The only bad thing was I was vacuuming in the sun, so it was hot af. The paint had oxidation, but the owner didn't have much time so I only washed it and sealed it with Sonax Polymer Net Shield.

u/mckeefner · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

It is an 05. Paint is in decent condition but a lot of contamination. It was sitting under a sap tree for 2 years. I spent about an hour claying the hood and it removed maybe 70% but there was a lot of stuff. I was using chemical guys clay.

Thank you..glad you said something :)

Like this

u/fuckflyingpigs · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

When using a clay bar alternative like this, do you apply it the same as you would a clay bar? Wet the surface with an auto detailing spray, then gently pass back and forth with the bar until it slides smoothly?

u/NsRhea · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing


So I've been lurking here for several weeks trying to soak up what I can. I've checked out the wiki page on starter kits and I guess I'm just wondering a couple things based on the list to get myself going.

Gonna get the buckets and the grit guards. I've got a ton of microfibers I use for my car already.

I was thinking of getting the Griot's DA polisher recommended (here)[]

I guess I'm wondering what chemicals I should be using on my vehicle?

I do live in an apartment complex though so I DO NOT have access to a hose because our landlord has got it under lock and key. I read a few days ago about a product that someone used outside and it was still ok (though I do have access to a garage!).

I guess I'm just more lost as to where to start besides the DA polisher.

edit: Oh! I've used a clay bar before and while it was nice, I was wondering about this nanoskin sponge that's also recommended.

Is that like a 1:1 sub for clay bars? Same thing just not wasted if dropped?

u/procrastislacker · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

I believe clay bar qualities are different. Just like with most stuff, generally the higher the quality, the more expensive it is. The cheaper ones I've worked with have streaked heavily and more often. Depending on the vehicles condition, and how often you detail, a clay bar can last a long time. This CLAYBAR is pretty cheap & plenty of people like it. For a clay sponge it does the job.

u/GlowAuto · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Did you not decontaminate the paint with clay or alternative??!

Oh boy. Your paint is supposed to feel VERY smooth after a wash, clay, and wax. Here's a review of a nanoskin sponge which is 100% worth it I wrote. My car feels so smooth it's ridiculous.

Not decontaminating your paint also results in you rubbing abrasive particles into your clear coat and swirling it.

Here's my advice-

  1. Buy the nanoskin product I linked

  2. Wash your car with dawn dish soap. This strips and existing wax so you can get back under it.

  3. Dry the car.

  4. Use the nanoskin sponge and decontaminate the entire surface of your car.

  5. Protect with wax or sealant.
u/_revy_ · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

So my first ever detail is planned out like is this

  1. Foam Cannon wash + rinse
  2. ONR Rinseless wash + dry
  3. ONR Lube + Nanoskin AutoScrub Fine Grade Sponge (
  4. Meguiars ScratchX 2.0 Polish and buff off with MF towel
  5. Wax

    My understanding is polish basically scrapes a layer off in order to go deep, is there anything i need to "refill" that digging?

    Does my order of detailing sound good, in other words do i need to add anything else?
u/greyclocked · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

wax for the interior? I was thinking of the 3m style spray on plastic stuff that I assumed was used on the seats and other surfaces to prevent dust buildup.

The brush is the Nanoskin (AS-019) AutoScrub Fine Grade Sponge

obviously should have called it a sponge!

u/Vindowviper · 1 pointr/Miata

I used Optimum No Rinse during the winter time, because it allows for small parts of the car at a time, without requiring rinse.

But invest is a Waffle Weave Drying Towel, a couple bucket's from wal-mart (like $2.50 a bucket) and some Grit Guards for each bucket and your in business. You can use any soft wash mitt, and there are a lot of different brands and styles out there, and I also recommend a Detailer or Wax (I prefer quick detailer during winter-times so I can just spray and wipe and it keeps the snow and crap off for a good amount of time.)

I personally like Meguiar's Ultimate Quick Detailer. Just spray it on your clean spot, rub it in all over, then single wipe it off with the dry side of the terry cloth, and you get some bead action next time it rains!

u/merlinxtc · 1 pointr/sandiego

Have you looked into rinseless? I use this product:

I use about 2-3 gallons of water that I fill up at my bathtub and I can wash my entire car in less than an hour.

u/socbrian · 1 pointr/teslamotors

Get some OPT and keep a spray bottle in your car with some micro fiber towels (Costco has cheap ones). Can use this stuff on basically anything in the car too; seats, paint, and dash

u/FatFingerHelperBot · 1 pointr/teslamotors

It seems that your comment contains 1 or more links that are hard to tap for mobile users.
I will extend those so they're easier for our sausage fingers to click!

Here is link number 1 - Previous text "OPT"

^Please ^PM ^/u/eganwall ^with ^issues ^or ^feedback! ^| ^Delete

u/TheBowerbird · 1 pointr/teslamotors

I'd go with this much more economical size:

I haven't used the chemical guys version, but ONR seems to be loved by detailer nerds the most out of any of the products.

I use a meguiar's microfiber wash mitt or the ONR sponge make ( )

One bucket method if car isn't that dirty. If really dirty, I'd use two. I do full washes about 60% of the time because my ceramic coating has degraded down to where a lot of dirt remains behind if I drive through rain and I like using my power washer. When I do that I use the same wash mitt or red sponge. The wash mitt is much easier to clean (laundry) than the big red sponge (hand wash usually), but the big red sponge is maybe a bit more mar preventative.

u/Warmachine- · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing
u/MACS5952 · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Buy a bottle of Optimum No Rinse (abbreviated ONR). you only need 1/2oz per gallon, so you are looking at 64 gallons of detail spray per 32oz bottle. Just take a brand new gallon of distilled water, put a capfull of ONR in it, then transfer some to a spray bottle and go to town.

you can spray a panel and wipe with a microfiber cloth to do a quick waterless wash or touch-up. And since ONR is a water softener, if you miss some when drying, it wont leave any spots.

ONR is pretty much a miracle product in the detailing industry and i wouldnt trust any detailer that doesnt have atleast a gallon of the stuff onhand at all times.

u/tr287 · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Optimum (NR2010Q) No Rinse Wash & Shine - 32 oz.

u/ChuckGotWood · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

This? Optimum (NR2010Q) No Rinse Wash & Shine - 32 oz.

u/Dr_WLIN · 1 pointr/Audi

1 or 2 buckets, Lake Country sponge, Optimum No Rise & Shine, nice double mist sprayer, and like 10-15 micofibers and you'll be set.

buckets + sponge for monthly washes, sprayer + microfibers for touch ups every couple days.

u/Shwingdom · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Just to confirm, ONR?

u/Zokuta · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Am I on the right track? I am currently looking for all the products I need to completely detail my car. I know there is no way I could purchase all of these at once, so I am planning on purchasing the major ones first and adding the others over time. I have spent almost two weeks researching on everything I need to do. There is so much information and so many opinions that it is hard to find a definitive answer on what I need.

> Wheel

Wheel soap:

u/ackerlight · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Last question, which one is better?

Or this one:

And would both work while using clay for decontamination?

u/Nguyenning · 1 pointr/TeslaModel3

Optimum No Rinse & Shine has worked wonders... all with 1 capful in 1 gallon of water.

u/anstormning · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Hello! I bought a new car a little over a month ago and I wanted to do some basic cleaning with it, stuff that can be done maybe a couple times a month, since I never personally did that with my previous car.

Anyways, I live in SoCal so I'm trying to keep water usage to a minimum. This is my current "to-purchase" list that I'd like to buy soon;


iK Sprayer

Iron X

TRC Creature Edgeless 10pack

Mother's Tire Brush

ABN Wheel Woolies

Stoner's Reach Tool

Already have: Stoner's Invisible Glass, Costco multipack MF towels.

Will I still want to get a clay bar + wax for after washing, or is just washing every so often enough?

u/genetic_bloom · 1 pointr/GolfGTI

Yep, that's exactly it. Get a 32oz bottle of it and just dilute it at 1:16 with distilled water. You can use it to clean the wheel, as well as the other interior parts. It works great on the faux carbon fiber because other interior cleaners with UV protectants leave streaks that are hard to get off the shiny plastic. The ONR works great, you can use it to quickly wipe off the outside of your car too.

u/Calling_Thunder · 1 pointr/Jeep

I'll give you an upvote for paying the dog tax. You'll have another when you get some 303 Aerospace Protectant on those fenders and get em back to black

u/Velocicrappper · 1 pointr/motorcycles

There are dozens of sprays you can buy actually designed for protecting fabrics and vinyls from the sun. 303 Spray comes to mind. I've used it on convertible tops for many years with great results.

u/Trokeasaur · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Meguiars is a good over the counter alternative to some of the other options and has pretty solid products. That being said, its rarely best in class for any single product, but will almost certainly rank higher than black magic or Armour All in any head to head.

303 is a great product for both look and protection. It has some UV blockers that will keep your black plastic looking better for longer and is pretty cheap. Also works well on interior plastics as well and you can sometimes find it in hardware stores.

I'd also agree with Brooklyn's recommendation of the Opti-Bond as it is one of my preferred tire gels.

u/RapideGT · 1 pointr/Charger

I use 303 Aerospace Protectant and it works great.

u/alexdi · 1 pointr/cycling

I'd try something like that. Apply to the fabrics and plastics periodically. Paint as well, or use a UV film (also protects against scratches).

u/MercedesAutoX · 1 pointr/Jeep

303 makes a great product for both.

I use Adam's and chemical guys stuff for most everything else. There's better stuff out there, but I find these to be easy to use and get ahold of.

u/FrogPaperweight · 1 pointr/Atlanta

> I kind of agree but honestly ours is looking pretty faded considering it's only been a year.

We have a black plastic mailbox (something purchased off-the-shelf from Home Depot). I've discovered that regular applications of 303 Aerospace Protectant work wonders to keep my mailbox from fading from the sun.

u/DBradleyRI · 1 pointr/Cadillac

Thanks! This is the general vinyl cleaner -- not specific to cars? (As in this product: ?

u/nokturno123 · 1 pointr/ToyotaTacoma

Please don’t use armor all. Here’s what most of the pros use: 303 (30313-CSR) UV Protectant Spray for Vinyl, Plastic, Rubber, Fiberglass, Leather & More – Dust and Dirt Repellant - Non-Toxic, Matte Finish, 32 Fl. oz.

u/IceHypothalamus · 1 pointr/mazda
u/ahhter · 1 pointr/Cartalk

Here you go. It's 32oz so it lasts quite a while. I bought a gallon about 10 years ago, severely overestimating how much I needed.

u/remembertosmilebot · 1 pointr/XVcrosstrek

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:


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u/Bhanzz92 · 1 pointr/BMW

I can't really tell you what cannon and soap we used because my friend provided it for himself and I. We used my power washer though. I think it all comes down to what kind of power washer you have. We used my dads and he has a really nice and expensive one. My buddy told me he bought a 15 dollar cannon off of amazon and the soap was a generic car soap from pep boys, you can use dish soap as well. Overall though it was a really cool experience but I'm a little disappointed. It came out ok but not great because we dried our cars like shit lol. I'll be sticking to the car wash.

Edit: MATCC Adjustable Foam Cannon 1 Liter Bottle Snow Foam Lance With 1/4" Quick Connector Foam Blaster for Pressure Washer Gun

That's the foam cannon we used and for the power washer I have no idea. All I know is that it's a strong one. You can do this with a garden hose to but you'll get weaker results then what I got

u/WaltAndJD · 1 pointr/mazda3

There’s waterless car wash products you can use. I can’t do a hose wash at my place either, but I found this stuff and it works really well. My car gets super dirty and it does a good job, but it takes a bit longer than a traditional wash. There’s a bunch out there, but here’s the one I use:

u/ltmcbaggin · 1 pointr/mazda

Personally I use 303 aerospace protectant. Used to work in a boat shop and we used this a lot on upholstery due to direct UV ray exposure. Have used this in all of my cars and have never had warping or fading of the dash/trim.

u/theghostrx · 1 pointr/RangeRover

MATCC Adjustable Foam Cannon 1 Liter Bottle Snow Foam Lance With 1/4" Quick Connector Foam Blaster for Pressure Washer Gun

u/isometrixk · 1 pointr/Acura

Thank you! I didn't realize that the clouds and sky would open up like that at the end. Here's the cannon I used MATCC Adjustable Foam Cannon 1 Liter Bottle with Chemical Guys Pink Suds

u/OldSchool9690 · 1 pointr/ft86

Not a prob. I think they're all pretty much the same formula but this is the popular one. Great stuff

u/s3ri3s1 · 1 pointr/E30
u/thatazianguy · 1 pointr/teslamotors

I just use a cheap MATCC foam cannon from Amazon. So far I've been using the Chemical Guys honeydew shampoo and it works really well.

u/savagebunny · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

This is how I've restored my already fading plastic on my 2013 Civic Si, and made my parents 02 Taurus UV beat to hell plastics look great. I can take before/after photos and tape off a section if you'd like me too.

u/fiddlypoofer · 1 pointr/bicycling

Would definitely stay away from ArmorAll stuff as it seems to be lower quality and greasy -- maybe Aerospace Protectant 303 or Meguiars if you're going that route.

u/semi-comma · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Thanks. Sounds like it's not going to damage the car, so it's definitely worth trying. FYI, both ONR and Aero do, in fact, claim to be wax. So it's good to know that they, in fact, are not.

u/trevorbr2 · 1 pointr/350z

Here you go. It works pretty awesome and it makes your car look all shiny. 😀😊

u/crg300 · 1 pointr/TeslaModel3

I configured 2 months ago and edit button is still
there. Probably because I ordered AWD (non performance) with white seats. It also depends on your reservation number, if you were a previous owner and your location. Some people order long range models are getting them way faster than expected due to so many folks opting for AWD variants since they became available in late July (pent up demand).

As for car washes, everything I’ve read in the forum says only if it’s a laser no touch car wash. Most people recommend hand washing with two bucket method or something like this product below. The issue with traditional car wash machines is it leaves micro abrasions in the paint. Some people care, others don’t. Also, many folks are also paying a premium for paint protection film and/or ceramic coating. I’m planning to use the wash mentioned below and likely get paint protection film only on the front half of the car body.

Aero Cosmetics Wet or Waterless Car Wash Wax Kit 144 Ounces. Aircraft Quality for Your Car, RV, Boat, Motorcycle. The Best Wash Wax. Anywhere, Anytime, Home, Office, School, Garage, Parking Lots.

u/furordei · 1 pointr/motorcycles

Buy many microfiber towels - noted. How do you think something like this would work?

u/FishPilot · 1 pointr/Challenger

What about this:

Waterless Car Wash Wax Kit 144 oz. Aircraft Quality Wash Wax for your Car RV & Boat. Guaranteed Best Waterless Wash on the Market

u/jamalstevens · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Hey all,

So I just bought a new to me 2016 f150 with blue jeans color paint. Since this car was more expensive than anything I've ever bought besides my house I want to take care of it as best as I can. For context I live in MI and during the winter will have a garage (that isn't heated) and will have space to clean the car, but no access to a hose or whatever for hosing down the car in the winter.

As far as I can see there is one paint chip on the hood and a few very small scratches by the door handle (they aren't very deep at all). There is some swirls on the window pillars, but there doesn't appear to be any swirling in the paint itself.

I'm having a hard time figuring out how to keep it clean and looking good outside of taking it to a mechanical car wash and then touching it up with some chemical guys vintage quick detailer to prevent water spots.

I don't know if I should do the whole wash, clay bar, and then wax, or if I can just wash and then use a waterless wash/wax combo.

I don't want to do any polishing/cutting work if I don't have to to get the car up to snuff as I don't really trust myself with that.

Basically my idea was to use a regular car wash on the car, and then use something like this: Aero Cosmetics Waterless Car Wash/Wax. to protect it.

Is that not right? Should I wash, claybar and then apply a dedicated wax? I've never waxed a car and am a bit worried about doing it wrong.

Any advice on keeping this as simple and budget friendly as possible? I have a lot of microfiber cloths (Kirkland) as well as window waffle cloths. Just wondering about what else to do and what else to buy.

Thanks for the help and sorry for asking something so simple, this stuff is just so confusing to me!

u/110110 · 1 pointr/teslamotors
u/Chad11491 · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

I just bought a ryobi 2000psi 1.2 gpm machine and a $20 MATTC foam gun and it worked extremely well, just like the chemical guys videos, tons of fun. The pressure washer also cleaned my deck and driveway surprisingly well. I'm super pleased with it. If you're ordering online the sun joe spx3000 is more powerful for the same price, at 2030 psi and 1.75 gpm, but being able to go a mile from my house to return my unit if anything came up was a big point to me too.

Foam Gun

I used chemical guys citrus wash and gloss (it's worth it to get a gallon) with three pumps (3oz) and the foam cannon turned full open to max foam. It made a really thick shaving cream like lather.

u/nelsonic1990 · 1 pointr/GolfGTI

MATCC Adjustable Foam Cannon 1 Liter Bottle Snow Foam Lance With 1/4" Quick Connector Foam Blaster for Pressure Washer Gun

u/grow_something · 1 pointr/Volkswagen

Also, this stuff is amazing. It takes about 10-15 minutes to keep up the shine and can be used on all surfaces.


u/trickpony1357 · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

How about this? Seems like you can cut the bucket:

u/futurelaker88 · 1 pointr/TeslaLounge

Touchless washes and waterless washes.

This stuff is magic:

u/ridethepiggy · 1 pointr/motorcycles

Love me some Meguiar's.

u/Tollas · 1 pointr/subaru

Here is a schedule and product list I've compiled. The first sheet is my routine and the other tabs are products with links to (mostly) Amazon pages.
This has been built over several years of detailing with some recent additions specifically for the Sub (namely the Menzerna Micro Polish 4500 which is better for the softer paint).
I use 1Z shampoo and wax only because I don't pay for it. If I were buying those myself, I'd use Meguiar's Gold Class and Collinite 845 for wax.

As lifetrees mentioned, check out /r/autodetailing, read the links to the right for product reviews and how-to's, learn the 2 bucket method, and check out some videos on things like polishing and waxing as these can be difficult to do properly on a dark color vehicle as they show every imperfection in the paint.

u/NVdustytrail · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

What do you mean by air blower/sheeting? I have tried an air compressor and the pressure is just too high and breaks up the beads of water bit doesn't really blow them off. But yeah I need to get the buckets and grit guards and the sheepskin wash mitt. I have been using a microfiber sponge thing kind of like this. What kind of cloth do you recommend for applying wax and what brand wax? I have been using some wax that came with the vehicle but I'm just about out and I've been applying it with some microfiber wax applicator towels from O'Reill. Also how often should I wash the wax applicators and how?

I was just at Walmart and picket up some of this, not sure if it's recommended or not. I also got one of these but I'm not really sure of the purpose of it, I just keep hearing people talking about using "clay bar"¿?.

Sorry for the wall of questions, but like I said I'm really new to this and would greatly appreciate of you could answer most of them (if not all)

u/cancerface · 1 pointr/cars

Guy at a track day clued me into this stuff a few years back - Nevr-Dull Wadding Polish.

Removes everything without hard scrubbing, leaves a protective coating that makes it so you can wipe daily carbon buildup away with a dry rag.
Fucking amazing, all four chrome tips of my 2013 WRX are still stainless/spotless after seven years.

Pro-tip, wad the wadding up in a rag or wear gloves to apply it. The chems in that stuff will seep into your skin very easily.

u/deathbeforeupvote · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

You're using this stuff?

u/RomeoTango · 1 pointr/motorcycles

Eagle One "Never Dull" and a clean terry cloth or similar rag-type article of cloth. 30 seconds and some elbow grease and it will be all gone.
Link: []

u/spike_africa · 1 pointr/Cartalk

It's slightly pitted so it may never be great again. However Eagle One Never Dull, any parts store will have it, will shine it up. Rub it on and polish it up, then wipe off with clean rag. Enjoy.

u/Henryhooker · 1 pointr/DIY

I've used this on a lot of non automotive related (reason I bought it in first place) pieces before with good results.

As for the upholstery part, you might need to take that to an upholstery guy, some of that stuff is rather tricky. I think once you rip the fabric off you might have hard time getting another fabric on without a specialized sewing machine.

u/KingTacoNomNomNom · 1 pointr/GolfGTI

haha I always love parking next to another GTI. Even better when I return to my car to find another one parked next to it :]

I also recommend some Nevr Dull to help keep your exhaust tips shiny :P

u/Yago20 · 1 pointr/motorcycles

It happens. I haven't used it myself yet, but Eagle One - Never Dull is supposed to make an easy(er) time of cleaning it up.

u/defiantnoodle · 1 pointr/Tinder

You should use this on all the luggage hardware.

It will make an incredible difference. I use it on old bicycles.

u/RuthlessAdam · 1 pointr/Mustang

I pretty sure they are aluminum maybe billet but that is a stretch. I would use Eagle One Never Dull. That shit works on everything like a charm!

u/Dgwired · 1 pointr/camaro

Thanks. I went with this stuff since it said safe on all metal. Worked really well. If I know for sure it was stainless I was going to go at it with some 0000 steel wool. I read that it's a bad idea to use that on chromed metal.

u/Mortimer452 · 1 pointr/HomeMaintenance

Nevr-Dull works pretty good, but I agree many others, I like the patina.

Those rust spots/chips on the deadbolt, no way to get rid of those without replacing the lock.

u/accaris · 1 pointr/gamecollecting

You use Novus #1?

u/freakingwilly · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Don't use window cleaners as the chemicals inside (like ammonia) can be abrasive and cause hairline cracks in acrylic. Window cleaner is designed for glass and not plastic, which is why you shouldn't use it on your TV and monitors either.

Use something like Brillianize or Novus, which is a dedicated plastic polish/cleaner and has silicone in it to prevent scratching from abrasive materials. For more info, check out this YouTube video.

As a last ditch effort, you could try using a small amount of petroleum jelly like Vaseline to fill in hairline scratches.

u/NeoJ4K3 · 1 pointr/vita

that might work, they have smaller quantities on ebay for cheaper, i have been meaning to try it but haven't had a chance yet

u/Olbuddyuknow20XX · 1 pointr/oculus

Get this. It will do the trick.

Novus 7100 Plastic Polish Kit - 8 Ounce

u/The_Geoff · 1 pointr/fountainpens

[Novus Plastic Polishing kit]( 7100 Plastic Polish Kit - 8 oz.

At $17 it's almost as much as the pen, but you could polish your headlights or other plastic surfaces to justify the cost

Your results might be similar without wet sanding but I couldn't tell you for certain.

u/AMartin56 · 1 pointr/fightsticks

You might try Novus products:

Novus 7100 Plastic Polish Kit - 8 Ounce

But as always I'd try a small spot somewhere you won't be able to see it first in case you don't like the results (and maybe not go straight to 3 right away).

u/lostchicken · 1 pointr/VintageApple

Novus plastic polish is the shit.

u/KodakPak1166 · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Try Novus 7100 plastic polish kit.

The wife's C300 has piano black interior trim which got crazy stains from air fresheners and other crap I tried to clean with. Using a micro buffer is suggested. The forum I found the Novus on had people who had the same problem you are having and it cleared it up well.

u/dreamsindarkness · 1 pointr/PSP

I am considering ordering this polishing kit. I'm not sure if you would be interested, but some reviews hav said it can work on polycarbonate.

u/mnrun · 1 pointr/modelmakers

Interesting. This? Is it tedious to get a uniform polish around surface detail, or no?

u/constantino2 · 1 pointr/buildapc

some sort of acrylic/lexan. Depending on the severity, you can try polishing it out, it may not be completely fixable, but atleast minimized.

I used this on my fish tank...

u/Dirt_Bike_Zero · 1 pointr/snowboardingnoobs

You jdon't need a buffing wheel. Just a microfiber cloth, some polish and some elbow grease. The buffing wheel would certainly speed things up, but pointless to buy for a one time use.

This is the 3 step process product that I'd recommend.

In the future, know that those magic erasers are abrasive. Good luck.

u/Ilovetoski93 · 1 pointr/OculusQuest

My brother used something like this to remove the scratches from him lenses that were caused by his glasses rubbing on them.

u/J_Washington · 1 pointr/howto

I’m guessing you meant to ask how to remove the scratches, and if that’s the case your best bet is a Dremel (or similar) with a set of buffing pads and a 3 step polish like Novus. You could do it by hand if you don’t have a Dremel, but you’d need some serious patience.

u/dumb_ · 1 pointr/motorcycles

My friend, let me introduce you to Novus Plastic Polish

u/NewC303 · 1 pointr/mac

For the palmrest area I would VERY CAREFULLY use a Magic Eraser - do not touch the screen with it. For the outer shell I would use GooGone for the sticker residue and then this Novus Plastic Polish Kit to remove scratches/scruffs.

u/signint · 1 pointr/Gunpla

The clear parts will take a bit of work but you should actually be able to get them looking like new. (If there is still paint left on the part) Start taking off the paint by sanding with a high grit sandpaper mounted with double sided tape to a flat surface. Then I'd suggest buying this: and working your way through that, in the end it should look like new. I use it on every clear piece after I have removed the flash and sanded away the nub marks. You can even apply a gloss clear coat after that step as well to get a better than new shine.

As far as the paint beading goes, I think you diagnosed the problem already, since you aren't using primer on clear parts washing them is crucial. Do everything you can to have optimal painting conditions as well, and be sure to spray lightly, take your time, and SLOWLY build up layers.

u/spiff-o-matic · 1 pointr/ResinCasting
u/rightjason · 1 pointr/vinyl
u/Elbarfo · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I like my PEI shiny so the bottom of prints have a more glass-like appearance. After a couple of years on this .06 in thick PEI bed, I had made a few gouges and scratches on the bed that were affecting my print quality. A quick go over with drill mounted polishing sponges and Novus plastic polishing compound really shines the surface right back up.

This stuff works great on your worn car headlights too!

u/HorrifiK · 1 pointr/amiibo

I use this to buff scratches out the windows of Funko Pops. It should work for this, but this scratch does seem pretty gnarly.

u/Yesod · 1 pointr/battlestations

Did you previously attempt to clean it with a harsh cleaner and scrubber? If so, then they can leave small scratches on its surface leaving behind a cloudy look.

If that happened, you can attempt to 'repair' by using Novus 1 to clean the surface, then use Novus 2 or 3 and buff until the scratches are virtually invisible.

If you go this route, show us the results.

u/nguye205 · 1 pointr/malefashionadvice

I just bought my very first pair of Timberland Original Yellow boots. I want to protect them while keeping the same soft and matte texture/look of the boots. My plan is to put mink oil or Obenauf's Heavy Duty Beeswax on the boots and brush them with a soft brush to make it soft and matte.

The guy in this video used mink oil and brushed them off using a soft brush to restore the original look and feel of the boots.

I know mink oil and beeswax will darken the leather. I don't mind that at all. How to protect my first pair of Timberland?

u/smallbatchb · 1 pointr/knives

Basic mineral oil or beeswax or a combo.

You can gently melt down some beeswax IN mineral oil and then rub it all in, let it dry, and then wipe off excess.

Even simpler is to get some Howard's Butcher Block Conditioner at Lowes or Home Depot. It is just beeswax and mineral oil pre-mixed. It works best if gently heated or if you apply it to your handle and then use a hair dryer to gently heat the handle. That way the wax and oil get deep down in the leather.

You could also use Obenauf's to condition and protect.

u/ColPaint · 1 pointr/BuyItForLife

Winter Clothing/Underwear
In the fall I would wear whatever sweater was on sale at Goodwill.
For the colder winter months I wore a heavy Carhartt jacket and layered as necessary, normally using old/retired ARMY-issued polypropylene underwear.
I bought this around 7 years ago and it's awesome to have in cold weather.

Long Sleeve
For a long sleeve I would always wear these Hanes Cool Dri T-Shirt's in the summer. They claim 50+ UPF (Ultraviolet Protection Factor) though I'm sure that high of a rating only applies to the black ones and it will slowly go down as you put it through the wash. I bought the safety green ones over a year ago and haven't noticed any change in sun protection so far. They were holding up too witch was impressive with my line of work at the time (railroad labor).

I started wearing whatever blue jeans I found at Goodwill but they would always end up having holes after a month or so. I used that saved money and waited to for a 25% off sale to buy a few pairs of Duluth Firehouse pants (the originals, not those quick-dry things). I've returned 1 pair so far after 2 years even though I staggered them every day. I suspect I may have over-washed them (weekly)?

I was required to wear a hard hat so I bought this sun shade that wrapped around the brim, it worked out very nicely because 50% of the work involved bending over, exposing the back of your neck to the sun.

I bought Darn Tough socks and haven't looked back since.

I went through a few brands of boots before I found the perfect pair of Chippewa's. All other boots I tried were uncomfortable in the toe area. I was restricted to certain boot requirements from the railroad: 8", defined heel, safety toe, laced. I also put on some KG's Boot Guard before I wore out the leather on the toe area, use masking tape to make it look good! As for boot care, I opted for Obenauf's Heavy Duty LP because of the water and chemical resistance. Any time I needed to clean my boots I used Dawn (yes, the dish soap). For a thorough (bi-yearly) cleaning I used Murphy Oil Soap (yes, the wood cleaner).

Lunch Box
As for a lunch box, a basic small cooler/ice chest will do the job just fine for storing hot or cold items (not both at once!). They're well insulated, cheap, and beat broken zippers, ripped cloth, or dented metal any day.

COLD: I bought this Coleman 1 Gallon Jug about 5 years ago at Goodwill for $2 and it still looks brand new today.
HOT: This Stanley One Hand Vacuum Mug was the best money I ever spent. It's awesome for driving without spillage and relatively easy to use while wearing insulated gloves. Sadly my first one was ran over by a coworker but I quickly bought another.

Find whatever works for you, but keep in mind that high SPF ratings are pretty much marketing. SPF 15 = 94% UVB protection and SPF 45 = 98% UVB protection. As far as I'm aware you cannot obtain 100% UVB protection from sunscreen.

Again, find whatever feels most comfortable to you, everybody is different. I was required to wear safety glasses which means polycarbonate lenses, they are known to scratch easily. Because of that, I found a pair that could be cheap enough to replace when necessary. Yes, my company did provide them, but they were incredibly uncomfortable to wear for 8+ hours a day.

Having a few bandanas will always come in handy.
If you need gloves, your leather choices are between grain and patched. Grain is much more expensive, takes some breaking into, is water resistant and very durable. Patched is pretty much the exact opposite of grain. My goto brand was Kinco.

I may add more if I can think of anything else.

EDIT 1 - Forgot a link..

u/Apoptosis0 · 1 pointr/malefashionadvice

To waterproof your boots you can use:


Obenauf HD/LP

They will both darken your both considerably

u/Nilots · 1 pointr/Frugal

Totally, as long as its boot specific oil it should work fine. The most highly regarded brand (and what I personally use) is Obenaufs, it is a little more expensive but that tub should last about a year or so.

It's important to get the dirt off before oiling, some folks use Saddle Soap or similar to strip all the dirt/chemicals off first. Dirt and especially harsh chemicals can dry out and damage the leather if left on for extended periods. Personally, my boots are usually just dirty (no chemicals) so I give mine a good scrub with water, let em dry overnight, then use the oil on em. It's important to spend some time rubbing the oil in so that it really soaks in instead of just sitting on the surface. Some folks leave their boots in the sun for awhile to warm them up to aid absorption.

Anyway, I usually once every 2-3 weeks or whenever the leather seems dry (depends on the environment). You can over-oil boots, however, so I wouldn't do it more often than that myself.

u/basilis120 · 1 pointr/Axecraft

Yes. The BLO should be good enough for a working tool. I replace the finish on all my hammers and axes with BLO and they hold up well. The BLO/beeswax can feel nicer in the hand but I'm not sure that it is tougher. Though the leather will do a better job of absorbing the melted wax then wood does.

For leather I prefer obenauf over generic mink oil. I think it does a better job but I haven't run a side by side test. I put that on all leather products so I would put that on first out of habit.

u/TortureSteak · 1 pointr/BuyItForLife

if I can't use it everyday without wearing it out, then I don't consider it BIFL... sure, they'll need to be resoled eventually, but that's any pair of boots. If you're worried about the leather drying out, then this is the stuff to use:

Smoke jumpers use it to protect their boots from heat and caustic ash... they still have to buy a $400 pair of boots every season, but for me it has kept my Danners with 100s of miles on them feeling soft and looking like new

u/motelirrelevant · 1 pointr/frugalmalefashion

Ok I was really debating between Obenauf's or sno seal, but I think you convinced me about Obernauf. But which Obenauf's should I use the heavy duty lp

The boot preservative

Or the silicone water shield

Or maybe a combination of the heavy duty lp and the silicone water shield? I don't want to spend more money then necessary but before I take my boots out into the world I want to make sure they're properly prepared for the elements. Oh and thanks for the help guys! All of this is very informative and helpful.

u/koldfusion47 · 1 pointr/BuyItForLife

You can treat anything but suede, nubuck, and rough out leathers with Obenauf's LP Boot Preservative after its been cleaned. It should help preserve your boots.

u/jollylar · 1 pointr/frugalmalefashion

Well these don't take to snow/rain too well. I recommend to get some obenauf's LP to somewhat waterproof it. It won't make it a rain boot but it will make it water resistant.

Clean off salt stains on the thing and you should be fine for light snow and small amounts of rain. Of course, let it dry if you were soaking in some rain/snow. Applying the obenauf's also darkens the leather to make it look more like a darker version beeswax on the desert boot (which is the crepe sole with a slightly darker leather , see here for comparison).

The leather will lighten up over time after applying obenauf and I actually have pictures here of only the after shots with about 3 months of wear after obenaufs LP (I also applied obenauf's oil though so it is actually darker than it should be).

u/Boo-_-Berry · 1 pointr/lightsabers

If its leather then any sort of leather conditioner should age it nicely. One of the best ones to use is Obenauf's Leather Preserve. It darkens up the leather and seals it real well.

u/farahad · 1 pointr/geologycareers


  1. Lowa / I went with their Renegade model, but depending on your local climate, something else might make more sense.

  2. I gave Vasque shoes two tries, both pairs split at the seams on the inside near the front of the foot. Total crap.

  3. I think Merrell is ~okay. I haven't tried higher-end models. Their cheaper models usually last me one field season, tops, but they for sure don't break like the Vasques do.

  4. If you're getting good shoes, make sure to treat them well, too. This wax worked well on my leather, and I treated with silicone afterwards.

    You'll have to keep re-treating, and watch out for issues like gumboot (clogged leather pores). I've also read that treating with liquid oil like mink instead of wax can weaken the leather by hydrating it and making it, yes, more supple -- but also softer.


    Ditch jeans. KUHL makes the best field pants I've tried. They're more durable, lighter, and are generally very good. Go to an REI to see how different versions fit. KUHL makes jeans and similar pants, too, but their lighter field pants are much better in most conditions.

    Socks...too many options, none of them stood out for me. As long as you have enough pairs of thick hiking socks and can cycle through clean pairs every day or so, you should be fine. Synthetic socks typically dry faster than wool. That's about the only major / consistent difference in my experience.
u/stimilon · 1 pointr/malefashionadvice

Thanks! Couple questions:

When you say you wipe off salt stains with vinegar you mean applying standard cooking vinegar to a shoe rag and rubbing around to try to get the salt stain out?

And are these the products you use: Obenauf's Leather Oil during normal times and then apply their heavy duty leather protector for the rough weather?

u/gonzolahst · 1 pointr/knifeclub

Same here, I got some Timberland lightweight boots and the toe separated after two months of wearing them to work. On the other hand, my Pros are holding up great after three years of winter abuse. Just don't forget to give them a rub down, I recommend this stuff.

u/JESUSgotNAIL3D · 1 pointr/malefashionadvice

I just got a pair of Johnston & Murphy dark brown oxfords and they are made out of sheepskin leather. Can I use my usual boot leather conditioner/protector (listed here) on these, combined with a damp rag wipe when necessary?

I was reading around and the only info I could find was on this site stating "To protect your sheepskin from cracking or drying out, a leather conditioner specifically for sheepskin is essential." Is this true? I would rather not have to go back to the store and buy their shoe cream if I don't have to. Or if anyone knows of an alternative on Amazon that would be cool.


u/Nick2632 · 1 pointr/malefashionadvice

I'm not sure about lightening the color, as most conditioners that you apply to boots will slightly darken the leather, at least temporarily.

If you'd like to give them a bit of protection, you may want to try something like this after cleaning off any dirt with a brush, rag, or whatever. That should help the suppleness of the leather and offer a slight bit of weather protection.

u/ARedHouseOverYonder · 1 pointr/malefashionadvice

When people say they used Obenauf's is THIS what you mean? How many pairs of boots can I handle with 4 oz?

u/eyeamgrewt · 1 pointr/BMW

Sonax is my go-to. But if you want to go all-out, give them a deep clean and decon, and ceramic coat them. I've used Gyeon with good results. Ceramic coating makes them a breeze during regular cleanings. A blast with my power washer gets 95% of the brake dust off.

u/Gad001 · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Definitely give Sonax Full Effect Wheel Cleaner a try. I have had amazing success with this stuff. It will turn from green to red as it is working and breaking down iron particles and break dust.

Also, you can give either CarPro's Iron-X or TRIX (Tar and Iron Remover) a try.

Honestly, by looking at the picture, the Sonax should clean up the break dust and those streaks. Just let it sit on the wheel for a couple minutes and agitate it with a brush. I use this brush to get in behind the spokes as well.

As far as keeping brake dust from accumulating as quick, I'm not sure if there's really a remedy. You can wax your rims, there is stuff out there specifically made for rims, but I've never used it, so I'll let someone with experience speak on that. However, I read the other day someone used Collinite #845 Insulator Wax on their rims (same wax I use). I may give this a try next time I wash the car and see if it helps control the brake dust.

u/trollster4 · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Your list looks good, but is lacking a few item IMO: The mitt you listed should be fine, but I use these. I have 3 of them and it's good to have more than one lying around in case one gets too dirty during the wash. I like to use a different one for the bottom of my car anyway.

I'd get at least one more pack of those Chemical Guys microfiber towels. The more the better.

I use Sonax Full Effect Wheel Cleaner. It's a bit pricey but it's very effective at removing brake dust.

For applying the wax, you'll need an applicator pad

u/spadedracer · 1 pointr/S2000

Like other mentioned, get the wheel woolies to keep the barrels clean.


Unless the car is just going to sit in your garage and polished with a diaper then I wouldn't spend a bunch of money/time on it. Get one of the popular brake dust cleaners(like Sonax), do a good clean, maybe throw a cheap coat of wax on the inside barrel with whatever you have laying around, keep them clean with the woolies and then just go enjoy the car.

u/CrunchyBones · 1 pointr/GolfGTI

I use Sonax on my wheels and clean the calipers with a soft brush like this.

u/BrianXburma · 1 pointr/GolfGTI

Not too hard with some “bleeding” wheel cleaner. Just spray it on, let it sit, agitate a little if it’s been a while, and spray it off.

Link: Sonax (230200-755) Wheel Cleaner Full Effect - 16.9 fl. oz.

u/schadwick · 1 pointr/Porsche

Just soapy water (with this soap). I've used Sonax before, but it's a hassle because you have to rinse it off before it dries, and the red run-off stains concrete.

u/smedema · 1 pointr/BMW

Sonax wheel cleaner is by far the best wheel cleaner I've ever used. Most of the dirt is brake dust which is inescapable. But sonax spray melts it away so easily.

u/Lasaif · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

I used to buy it on amazon but I don’t use it on my wheels anymore since they’re specifically for alloy. How it works is when your wheels are cool and in the shade you spray it on it chemically fights the iron particles on your wheels and you spray it off. I’d imagine that and a pressure washer could do most of the heavy lifting. It’s kind of expensive but worth a shot. Link below

u/cs_cabrone · 1 pointr/GolfGTI

My 6 has so much creek. So what I did was...

1/4th inch drip tube in the inner seal atop my doors

That worked for a bit but the squeaky noises returned.

Next I used Gummi Pflege on the inside of every single seal within the door. So what I mean is. On the ones that attach to the body, but more importantly I spread open every one on the door and put a generous coating


I put Sailkote all over a rag, I mean soaked it, then rubbed it all over the felt side of the upper door seal that touches the body.

This can be purchased for a lot less with some hunting. I paid 12.99 at a local marina store

u/Laxrules56 · 1 pointr/FiestaST

Get nextzett it's amazing
Link to it

u/fingapapits · 1 pointr/Audi

i use rain-x wipers but my real secret is this stuff

it reinvigorates all rubber, from window and door seals, to wiper blades. It's awesome!

u/learntosell · 1 pointr/GolfGTI

I recommend gummifledge for this issue. I tried silicone spray first and that worked for a while, but this gummifledge stuff made the creaking go away for six months at a time. Pop up your moonroof and apply it to the rubber piece in the back and wherever else you think there may be rubbing, but that long back rubber weather seal was the culprit.


u/JT_3K · 1 pointr/RoastMyCar

Before I forget, you'll want some of this. It's the stuff that revitalises your seals and cures (or prevents) the T-Top leak as well as reduces wind noise. It's a godsend and done the moon-roof on my E34 as well as the T-Tops on an '87 AW11. Seriously worth a bottle.

u/posam · 1 pointr/cars

Apply Gymi Pfledge to the seals on the roof every 6 months to a year. There should also be drain holes in the A piller. Check that those are clear as well. There should also be a set in the roof compartment but I doubt those would clog easily.

For the roof it, since it is halting outright and not struggling, symptom of hydraulic issues ask me how I know, It almost certainly is a sensor that is failing. You may be able to get a special code reader (at least on the E46, the convertible module is not readable by standard OBDII readers) for the module to read which sensor is bad or you have to test each sensor on the car.

u/AaronCompNetSys · 1 pointr/cars
u/smulz · 1 pointr/consolerepair

It's squishy but it feels stiff? Kind of contradicting.

If you need it to have more give, use this stuff on the top part of the rubber:

If it's not stiff enough, apply a very fine coat of this stuff using a paint brush to the base of the raised rubber:

Over time, the flex seal will fail and you'll need to reapply.

u/RandyDanderson · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Which one of these for door seals that are sticky?


303 Rubber seal

u/snwebb88 · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing
u/mmmmaaarrk · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Grab some Iron-X. While you're at it, clean that chain (you can use chain cleaner or kerosene) to get a few more miles out of it.

u/mxnate116 · 1 pointr/Trucks

Pick up some of this

It smells absolutely awful but it will remove the iron deposits in the paint and wheels and leave a cleaner surface to work with. I would clay bar the paint after as well. It sprays on clear and turns purple when it is working. Well worth the price especially since you can use it to remove brake dust from your wheels during washes.

u/baceves908 · 1 pointr/Cartalk

go check out /r/AutoDetailing for more info.

u/MSD0 · 1 pointr/Autobody

You can use Iron X followed by a clay bar.

u/Pokeyanow · 1 pointr/whatisthisthing

Time wise if it’s what I think it is hard to say, Few weeks to a month maybe?

As I say if it’s what I think it is, it’s ‘hot’ metal that’s landed on the glass from an angle grinder or welding spatter.

You should be able to improve on it with something like the below to remove the ‘rusting’ of the particles, but if damage has been done to the glass you won’t fix that.

u/DaegenLok · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Hope this helps! This isn't an exhaustive list of the best professional products but some of the best top rated affordable and highly rated by forums and high subscriber YouTubers. I'll try to answer questions as they come. Thanks for all tye comments and positive/critical feedback. Promise is all helps in the end!


  1. Meguiar’s Gold Class Shampoo Car Wash - $23 -
  2. Mothers California Gold Clay Bar System (Best out of the packaged kits compared to “professional” line expensive clays/lubes) - $16 -
  3. Carpro Iron X Iron Remover 500 ml with Sprayer - $19 -
  4. CarPro Eraser Intense Oil & Polish Cleanser (Rated a little higher than Gyeon Prep – A few options out there but this is cheap and works great compared to straight IPA spray/wipe. It’s not rough on the clear coat and doesn’t cause issues with using higher % of IPA over time) - $17 -
  5. 2x Five-Gallon buckets with a dirt guard in the bottom. – Lowe’s $10-$15 with the dirt guard (already had that)

  6. CarGuys “Premium Wheel Cleaner” - $17 -
  7. Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish (Classic Product but you really won’t find a more reliable and top notch wheel polish than this – Here is Amazon link but usually you can pick this up cheaper at Walmart for about $4 or $5 I believe) - $7 -
  8. 1x 2.5 Gallon Bucket Dedicated To Wheel Cleaning ONLY – Lowe’s $5

  9. Meguiar’s New m110 (Newer m105) Compound (Try To Find A 15% Coupon) - $40 -
  10. Meguiar’s New m210 (Newer m205) Finishing Polish/Swirl Remover (Try To Find A 15% Coupon) - $40 -
  11. 6x Pack Lake Country CCS Compounding/Polishing Pads – 3x Orange/2x White/1x Green – $60 (Try to find a usable 15% coupon) -
  12. Meguiar’s PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish (Using for rear/front light polishing – Could use your compound to polish as an alternative but I like the protection factor built into this plastic polish) - $5 -
  13. Car Foam Drill Polishing Pad Kit - 22x Piece 3” Buffing Pads (Cheap drill adapter + pads for head/tail lights only – You could go with a legit company for 3” pads but for the cost it was a joke and they are only for head/tail lights, NOT paint) - $11 -

    Finshing Wax/Protectant/Plastic & Trim Restorer
  14. Meguiar’s Ultimate Liquid Wax - $16 -
  15. TriNova Plastic & Trim Restorer (Hard Pressed to find anything as affordable for the ratings) - $13 -

    Interior/Glass Cleaners
  16. 303 PROTECTANT: Interior & Exterior UV Protectant (Use it to wipe leather seats, dash, and plastics) - $10 -
  17. Invisible Glass Premium Glass Cleaner w/ EZ Grip (Awesome stuff) - $4 -

    Convertible Fabric Top Cleaner/Protectant/Sealer
  18. RaggTopp Fabric Convertible Top Cleaner/Protectant Kit (This is top in class. There aren’t really any other higher rated options. Go with kit that has cleaner/brush/protectant sealer.) - $50 -

    Microfiber Cloths/Car Drying Microfiber Cloths/Buffing Microfibers/Brushes/Etc.
  19. Zwipes Microfiber Cleaning Cloths (24-Pack) (**Found this on a couple lists online for high ratings and they are soft/Highly rated on Amazon and cheap!) - $13 -
  20. Chemical Guys Chenille Microfiber Premium Scratch-Free Wash Mitt (Might consider 2-3 of them for washing the top and bottom parts of car – prevent further scratching) - $7 -
  21. Mothers Wheel Brush - $8 -
  22. Chemical Guys Microfiber Wash Cleaning Detergent Concentrate (Almost all the videos put this one as #1 compared to a couple other companies that offer dedicated microfiber wash detergent) - $10 -
  23. Chemical Guys Woolly Mammoth Microfiber Dryer Towel (25 in. x 36 in.) - $25 -
  24. Other Random buffing foam applicators and microfiber cloths that came with some of the kits listed above. Will use those for compound wiping and etc.
  25. Plastic Containers For Organization – Hefty 1.625 (Microfiber container) & 3.75 (Other products w/o squirt triggers) Gallon Containers I believe are the ones in the picture. These are awesome considering the cheap pricing. The plastic is heavy duty and the lathes aer decent all things considered. -

u/HockiDo · 1 pointr/motorcycles

Good question for r/autodetailing.

Iron-x is my go-to for cleaning wheels and removing contaminants from paint.

u/PoopySox · 1 pointr/kia

Unfortunately car care can be somewhat expensive when you use the right products. I have a 2013 EX in SWP, so my garage is full of detailing products. Polishes, sealants, cleaners. You name, I've probably got it.

For calipers:

For the rims:
and then

u/BarbarianG4 · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Thanks Popkins. I was confused because carpro 's site Click Herestates as such but Amazon specifically warns against Click Here using it on chrome & bare medals.

u/battleguard · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

So I am looking into buying some detailing supplies for doing wheels and was hoping someone could look over this list. It is probably overkill, but I would rather have everything I need I think.


ABN Wheel Whoolies

Boars Hair Detail Brush Set

Mothers Wheel Brush


Iron X

Meguiars Hot Shine Gloss Tire Spray

Meguiars D101 APC

The total comes out to $113 but I figured I would only be buying most of these items once so it will be worth it. Also this list doesnt even have any sort of sealant so not sure if I should buy one of those also?

u/achenx75 · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

I somehow didn't run notice any of those...just got the regular one. Can't imagine how cherry or lemon could help the scent lol.

u/wherediebeansat · 1 pointr/goodyearwelt

Not sure just how broke you are, but I bought this 8 oz lexol kit for ~$11 like 2 years ago and I'm not even halfway through it. Comes with applicators, cleaner and conditioner.

u/gintastic · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Thanks for the video! It was very helpful. He kept referencing an "interior cleaner." What brand of cleaner do you recommend? Lexol 907?

u/cm2881 · 1 pointr/vinyl

I used a 5,000 grit sandpaper from the auto parts and headlamp polishing. You need to be patient and do a few applications. I feel like I am not done but it sure looks a lot better than when I picked it up :)

u/Bananaz · 1 pointr/S2000

If you have a cordless drill purchase the 3M lens cleaner:

There are more than enough pads in there for 2 headlights. Take off your front bumper and put up your hood, this will make the task so much easier. Triple painters tape the paint around top and sides. Get a squirt bottle from Autozone, Homedepot, etc and fill it with water. Take your time, it should take around 45 minutes to do both.

Also do them at the same time, each step. Don't complete one and move to the other.

Afterwords protect and clean with:

u/sttrinh · 1 pointr/wiiu

You can clean them up with Meguiar's PlastX. I use them to polish up my headlights a bit, but it works for all kinds of plastic. $6 on Amazon

u/stridersubzero · 1 pointr/consolerepair

The idea is to use a chemical meant to reverse oxidation in plastics like headlight lenses, but on the laser lens. I've heard of people using this product to buff the lens:

Re: pots, I think it can work if you have an oscilloscope and the repair manual to get the values, but otherwise it's kind of a fool's errand IMO

u/dacracot · 1 pointr/howto

The Meguiar's PlastX costs $6.47 on Amazon. Instead go to Dollar Tree and get some toothpaste that works just as well.

u/ShamusMcGavin · 1 pointr/lifehacks

Meguiar's G12310 PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish - 10 oz. by Meguiar's

This stuff works wonders, but it takes a few coats though.

u/xCatalystic · 1 pointr/consolerepair

Perhaps some plastic polish? Im not sure if it will quite give it a glossy finish so much though, but a lot of people favor this it seems, haven't tried it myself.

u/ErR0R1337 · 1 pointr/LogitechG

Yeah, it was hardware issue - plastic was making scratchy noise, i added some plastic cleaner/polish and that annoying noise is gone so far.

u/cmharvey27 · 1 pointr/watercooling

Looks like you can clean it. Copper should be pretty easy. Plenty of info on that. Acrylic can be a biatch though. I use Meguiar's PlasticX and a microfiber cloth (and in your case a toothbrush). Just be sure to rinse it really well with DW. The question really is "is at block worth the time to clean?" as it will take quite a bit of elbow grease.

u/greenroadyellow · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

I think you're probably out of luck on the buttons (unless you want to disassemble the fob and figure out a way to machine polish them), but for the plastic back, maybe Meguiar's PlastX would make a difference?

u/molrobocop · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

Temporary fixes are fairly simple.

Just about any rubbing compound will knock off the layer of oxidation.

For example, wheel-polish. For a very good fix, either buy a full headlight restore kit. Or put together your own.

I've had very good luck with Meguiars's PlastX followed by Klasse Sealant Glaze

u/mrsmarvtracey · 1 pointr/RandomKindness

Meguiar's PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner and Polish - The plastic exterior on my Jeep Liberty looks terrible and it makes me sad!

My wishlist! Thanks!

u/svtguy88 · 1 pointr/vinyl

Meguiar's Plastx is my go to for dustcover (and headlight) cleaning.

Clean as much of the dust off as you can by spraying it down with the kitchen sink sprayer, as if you just drag a rag over it, the dirt will cause a bunch of tiny scratches in the cover. After that, hit it with the Plastx (basically, you use it like you would a car wax - use a pad to work it in, and then buff it out).

u/dongsy-normus · 1 pointr/pics
u/lurkme · 1 pointr/gaming

Or, you could buy a bottle of this and make it look new again. I've tried it and it works on fine scratches.

u/killabeez36 · 1 pointr/DIY

Here's something simple and relatively cheap you can try. You can find it at any auto parts store or even Walmart. It's good for light scratches and scuffs on a variety of plastics, just make sure to use a microfiber cloth (probably stocked within a 5 ft radius of the Plastx), and test a small spot first. If nothing else, it's good for cleaning plastics so while the scuffs might be there still, the rest of the body should be nice and shiny.

u/hippocratic_oaf · 1 pointr/everymanshouldknow

Most of the time I'm living in a flat so what I do it use a quick detailer (US link / UK link) and microfibre (US link / UK link) to keep things clean between proper washes. In fact I keep a bottle of quick detailer and a one of glass cleaner in the car at all times (I wrap a microfibre cloth around the spray head and put the combo in the driver/passenger door pocket).

Basically if you can catch any big, obvious dirt e.g. bird crap, early then it makes things easy.

If you manage to get some time, putting on a good coat of really hard wearing wax (US link / UK link) or sealant (US link / UK link) will be really helpful. It should last a year and make cleaning with quick detailer much easier.

As for the headlights, the yellow colour comes from the plastic oxidising. You need to scrub away that layer and then protect it. Toothpaste works quite well but there are dedicated products like (US link / UK link). Afterwards I'd apply some 303 Aerospace protectant (US link / UK link) which is also great for the interior plastic.

u/JohnBaggata · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

How do I get the paint on the right side of this picture looking like the left?

I bought the car used, neglected and abused. I've patched up the mechanical bits and I want to get my paint looking nicer, and hopefully uniform. My issue is that on certain parts of the vehicle the paint doesn't have much depth to it, but if I look on the inside of the doors, the paint is a deep beautiful color.

Would this be a good kit for it?

Mother's Clay Bar + Meguiar's Compound, Polish, and Wax

u/danjet96 · 1 pointr/Miata

I'm not expert in the physics of paint and materials, but the Mothers bars wouldn't have moved very much without much force, and shearing against the dry paint.

I'd suggest the mothers kit:

I just followed the instructions and took my time. It went well. I've done 3 cars since purchasing. Still have 3/4 life left in the 2nd bar. No more spray way left, but I had another brand's spray wax on hand. Seems to work just as well as the spray contained in the kit. I assume most spray waxes are lubricating enough to let the bar slide over the paint and remove dirt etc...

u/DatSass · 1 pointr/cars

If you have a free weekend and really feel like getting your car clean, get a claybar kit like this, and after that's done, give it a nice wax. You will be pretty amazed at how smooth and slick the paint is after this.

u/ArtistSchmartist · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

You can try either bug and tar remover by turtle wax (the only product ID ever buy from them), 90% isopropyl alcohol will work too, as it works great for tree sap and it's safe for clear coats, or if all else fails, you can try a clay bar with some quick detailer as lube. Mothers has a quick detailer and clay bar kit you can buy at any auto parts store like AutoZone/Advanced Auto.

u/Jgz1994 · 1 pointr/subaru

I used Meguiar's cleaner wax about a month ago, after washing and clay baring. Today I just used the quick detailer that came with the clay bar kit, after washing of course!

Meguiar's A1214 Cleaner Wax - Paste - 11 oz.

Mothers 07240 California Gold Clay Bar System

u/Kailand09 · 1 pointr/cars

Here's a long thing I wrote for a friend just getting started. It was an email and i don't feel like fixing links.

  1. Menzerna (Now called Jescar) Power lock Sealant:

  2. Optimum Spray Wax (this is a topper wax to go on top the sealant, or touch up areas any time):

  3. Meguiar's Drying Towels (I HIGHLY recommend these, super effective) I got 2:

  4. Mother's detailer kit (gives you detail spray, clay bars, and micro fiber towel as a bonus)

  5. Applicator pads

  6. Buffing towels (for buffing in the wax or sealant)

  7. Proper wash mitt (just a microfiber towel won't cut it) - there's also a 2 pack with prime.

  8. Car wash (this can be found at any autozone like store as well, this is a big bottle)

    Do you have 2 buckets to use? Always set one bucket up with the soap water, and the other with just water. Soak up your mitt, wash the car, rinse the mitt, then soak again in the soap water. This helps reduce contaminants. If you want to go the extra mile, get these for the buckets to prevent dirt from swashing around the bucket:

    It fits in a home depot bucket.

    If you have particularly pesky tar or bugs on the car, you'll need this that you can get from any autozone type store:

    WARNING **

    When using the power lock (or any sealant / non-liquid wax), DO NOT let it touch any black plastic or rubber parts of the car!!!!! If it does, just wipe it off with a wet micro fiber cloth. Failure to follow this will result in a white hue on the black piece. You could always painter's tape off those areas that are hard to avoid.

    Steps for this process:

  9. wash the car, two bucket method with wash mitt.

    1b) Bring the car to an area with as little sun light as possible for the next steps!

  10. Leave car wet. Use detail spray to keep all surfaces lubricated. Rub all surfaces down with a flat piece of the clay bar (flatten in your hand). About 2" diameter or so. Every panel or when the clay bar looks dirty, just kneed it a few times, folding it and re-flattening it. Every so often, throw out the clay and get some more. If you drop the clay on the ground, it's garbage throw it out. Each clay bar should last you multiple details of your whole car, just tear pieces off.

  11. Dry the car down with the MF drying towels. Buff in any water spots, streaks, etc from the detail spray. If an area needs a little extra love, spray some detail spray on it and rub her in.

  12. Use applicator pad. Apply a bit of sealant on the pad, even it out in the pad, and apply a thin layer of wax across the paint surface (NOT BLACK TRIM). You can use sealant on windows if you desire. Re-apply sealant to the applicator pad whenever you need more.

  13. let the sealant dry (20-30 minutes, depending on conditions). It will haze when dry.

  14. Use buffing cloths to wipe the haze out. You may need to do some hand "buffing", use different angles of sight to make sure the paint is now completely smooth and clean.

  15. Let dry a bit, 20 minutes?

  16. Spray VERY LIGHTLY with the optimum spray wax on paint surfaces. There are 2 settings on the bottle, make sure it is on the setting that spreads out the wax not a stream.

  17. Buff in the spray wax with buffing towels.

  18. ENJOY protection. Watch the beads of water fly off the car for the entire season.
u/Sheehan7 · 1 pointr/Miata

Something like this? If so that would be able to remove the other paint around the car from two other dings the car got well before my ownership. I was planning to polish the whole thing eventually as well

u/sam191817 · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Never clayed car before. Is this ok?

Mothers 07240 California Gold Clay Bar System

Wash, then clay, then wax?

u/Macgyver452 · 1 pointr/subaru

You need to clay bar the paint and then wax/seal it. If you park your car outside, this will need to be done regularly.

u/Figwit_ · 1 pointr/BuyItForLife

Obenauf's Leather Preserver. I've used it for a while now on all my leather boots. It will darken but damn does it work well. Beeswax for waterproofing and oils to hydrate and protect the leather. Great stuff.

u/newage321 · 1 pointr/goodyearwelt

maybe i wasnt taking care of my redwings. Does this help the life of them? They ALWAYS crack right behind the steel toe

u/nameisgeogga · 1 pointr/goodyearwelt

Spot this guide. I've learned that /u/a_robot_with_dreams is a god with GYW.

Interesting enough, only a few hours ago was I reading about shoe care today. So basically, unless you are trudging through the depths of hell, stick with just leather conditioner. That can be [Venetian shoe cream] (, Obernauf's leather oil cleaner, or whatever. You will not need all those waxes and such, as mixed in with Obernauf's Heavy Duty LP. Do your best to not use too much conditioner.

Seems like the steps are, when you do your monthly or biannual or whatever schedule conditioning you choose...:

  1. Clean that shit up. Wet rag and also a horse brush to clean barnacles off the shoes. If you get a really bad stain or some shitty residue, use leather cleaner.

  2. Allow to dry.

  3. Use a rag or cloth and apply a small amount of conditioner everywhere (not soles obviously...). Do your best not to use too much. Pea shape? IDK, spot another guide. So like at most pea shape.

  4. Dry.

  5. GGEZ

    5a. Optional: Polish or wax if you're a clean mofo or likes to get down and dirty like mentioned above. Re: Polishing (and wax?)...seems like it's mostly on dress shoes and formal footwear. Since we're talking about boots, skip

    Repeat every blue moon or something.
u/Nudes_for_Steak · 1 pointr/footballstrategy

Obenauf's LP Boot Preservative 8 oz - Preserves and Protects Leather - Made in the US

u/TheSnailsHere · 1 pointr/frugalmalefashion

Rub some Obenauf's Leather Protecter onto your Sperrys, best decision I've made when it comes to leather products.

u/pucolosder · 1 pointr/malefashionadvice

I got those boots from this image in one of the sidebar guides, where they are in the "cool, mostly dry" weather category.

I don't know exactly what that means, but it doesn't really sound like enough for what I'm hoping my next pair of shoes can endure -- I live in Michigan, and park outside during the winter. I don't need to be able to do shoveling in these or anything, but I do have to sometimes walk through foot-deep snow.

I suppose that this is what you guys are referring to? It looks good to me.

u/staggerb · 1 pointr/Watches

Obenhauf's leather preservative is fairly popular on /r/leathercraft. I use it on all of my straps, and as mentioned, it does darken the color for awhile, but it works wonders for keeping the sweat out. Sno Seal is another popular product, but I haven't personally used that.

u/Great_Platypus · 1 pointr/malefashionadvice

Heavy Duty LP I'd guess; so something like Obenaufs. Basically stuff that will help make the boots waterproof/water resistant, but it can/will also darken the color of the leather.

u/slash178 · 1 pointr/NoStupidQuestions

Leather is skin and should be thought of in the same way. Skin remains supple due to the presence of oils, and leather jackets are no exception. When you're taking a shower, the water washes away some of the oils from your hair and skin, and the same thing happens to the oils in your jacket in rain. This can result in the leather becoming dry, and dry skin cracks and can peel and become damaged. But leather is also dead, and cannot heal like our living skin can.

Much like skin, with proper care this effect can be mitigated and repaired to an extent. With our skin, we exfoliate and moisturize to remove dead skin and protect the rest from drying out. The same things are done to leather. If your jacket gets wet, wipe as much of the water as you can and let it dry fully. Then use a horsehair brush to gently exfoliate the area. If it's dry and brittle, use a leather oil.

There are leather oils to specifically protect against rain, though they can also darken the leather, and leave it a bit greasy. My favorite is Obenhauf's LP. It is highly effective but be sure to apply properly!

u/QueenElizatits · 1 pointr/fringefashion

I love love love leather dye it really is so easy. I have dyed coats, purses, boots, and a pair of pants so far. I use Fiebings Leather Dye amazon link. There are lots of tutorials out there but I'll tell you what works for me. This is for boots because I wanted them to last, purses coats etc were a lot less steps but anyway!

0-I didn't do this step because the chemical is illegal to buy in California but if you have a coated leather piece, something that's really shiny is usually how you would tell I gather, you would use a leather stripper here. But again I never did this.

1-Wash with Fiebings Saddle Soap

2-After it dries paint on your leather dye. I always did two coats although a lot of times it didn't need it.

3-After that dries buff the item to remove excess dye. If you forget to do that (like I do sometimes) dye will rub off on stuff.

4-Coat the item with something to perseve leather. I use either Obenauf's LP Boot Preservative or Obenauf's Leather Oil

That's it! And I definitely find the item looks a lot better after dye. The Obenaufs makes leather look amazing. And it's not animal oil so I like it a lot more than mink oil say.

u/HOT_LOBSTER · 1 pointr/femalefashionadvice

I use a leather conditioner and some sort of light waterproofing. Kiwi Leather Lotion is pretty basic and cheap and is a nice entry-level leather conditioner. As for waterproofing, you can use a silicone waterproofing spray, or something like Obenauf's or Sno-Seal, or for very light protection, you can use a wax polish.

u/Americonfusion · 1 pointr/malefashionadvice

I wipe my boots down with a apple cider vinegar/water mix and a couple times a year coat them with some Obenaufs

u/craziplaya21 · 1 pointr/frugalmalefashion

It should work fine, but I'd further protect/waterproof it with Obeneuf's LP.

Choose half a size down from your Brannock size

u/slick519 · 1 pointr/todayilearned

use this first to clean the leather, following instructions on box, and then condition the seats using this stuff

u/genesisofpantheon · 1 pointr/goodyearwelt

Lexol is quite recommended and very cheap. This 1 litre can lasts you very long and is cheaper. There are smaller bottles too, if you don't need so much.

And yes Kiwi works well.

u/kishan512 · 1 pointr/goodyearwelt

Dumb question but this lexol is the one everyone refers to right and not the "non darkening one" or the neadsfoot one?

u/hellodaisy · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Hi! I'm a super newbie to detailing and want to start with the interior of my car. I have a 2001 Lexus LS 430 that is in mostly good shape, but the interior black leather has never(!) been cleaned or conditioned (yikes!). It has only normal wear though, no weird staining, for the most part has only been used by adults (no kids) and no food/drink in the car, so just body oils and dirt from time.

I want to use Mothers Leather Wash Foaming Cleaner, based on a few posts I've seen in this forum and am wondering where to buy one of those soft bristle brushes I see used in this video and this post? Do you think a specific leather-cleaning product is necessary or should I just use a Meguiar's APC diluted (as mentioned here)?

I'm also still confused about whether or not to condition the leather after--I've seen conflicting information about coating on the leather that makes conditioning pointless.

Right now, I am leaning towards coating since my leather is so old and definitely does look a little dry/creased (no cracking yet, thank god!), I'll probably get the Lexol conditioner if so.

Also, for the dash and door panels, which are covered in leather, can I use the general 303 or Meguiar protective treatments on them or is there a leather-specific product?

The full list of what I intend to get to clean the interior of my car:

u/Gold_Nanodot · 1 pointr/malefashionadvice

I just use lexol. I'm sure MFA will have a million different things they recommend but it works for me.

u/firewally · 1 pointr/rollerderby

Some Lexol leather conditioner will do wonders for the general dryness. Nothing lasts forever, but keep high-quality leather properly conditioned (for skates, I'd say condition every 3-6 months or so) and it'll last a long long time.

Any cobbler should be able to fix little things like a broken strap. I live in a northern city so it's easy to find shops that specialize in hockey boots, but anyone who works on boots regularly would be a good choice. You could also contact the manufacturer (if they still are in business) to see if they offer a recrafting service - they usually love to see their well-worn boots come in for a little TLC.

u/caitykat56 · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

I would want No More Trouble Zones because I love Jillian's workouts and I use them to keep the "trouble zones" managed. plus, my sister is being a meanie and taking her copy of it to college with her this fall...brat lol
I would really enjoy either this or this!
Thanks for the contest!
Edit: Twinsies

u/Deusis · 1 pointr/malefashionadvice
  1. Get a horsehair brush and brush them down after you wear them.

  2. Put shoe trees in them after you're done brushing them down.

  3. Condition every 6 months with something like Lexol Leather Conditioner.

  4. Don't use "waterproofing" conditioners / mink oil / absurd amounts of polish.
u/Olderandbolder · 1 pointr/malefashionadvice

I've had good luck with Lexol and there is a lot of info about it all over the web.

u/cathpah · 1 pointr/goodyearwelt
u/whiteiverson1 · 1 pointr/goodyearwelt

This one says preservatives under the title, but it should still be okay right? When applying do you coat the entire shoe with a thin layer?

u/anonarwhal · 1 pointr/goodyearwelt

ok Thanks, is this the same product as you listed before?

u/key2 · 1 pointr/goodyearwelt

hey sorry, one more question.

this lexol page on amazon has two 8oz versions of Lexol conditioner. Do you know if one is better than the other?

u/hyphae-mycelium · 1 pointr/goodyearwelt

I can't comment on SofSole as I never heard of it before. Most people here will recommend Lexol Conditioner. It is a light conditioner that won't change the color of your shoes

You can also use coconut oil to condition your shoes. It is a deep conditioner, so you should only apply small fingertips of it in order to avoid over conditioning your shoes. I have experience with both and both work well.

u/stevenkmason · 1 pointr/goodyearwelt

I would recommend Lexol Leather Conditioner

u/I3aisden · 1 pointr/goodyearwelt

Would some like this be good to condition natural OSB trenches? I don't want anything to darken them up. I just want to prevent any water damage/ take care of the leather. Should I even bother conditioning them?

u/shibe4lyfe · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

I'm planning on getting this clay kit to get some surface rust spots off of my car. Does the Quik Detailer work as a wax/sealant or is it just for lubrication while claying? If it's just for lube what wax/sealant/applicators would you guys recommend? I'm not looking to spend a lot. Thanks!

u/lostwanderent · 1 pointr/Miata

I used Griots clay and used Griots Speed Shine as clay lube.

Meguiars makes a great clay kit though that you can find at any autoparts store.

I should mention that I did also polish the car earlier this summer. So, it has had some extra care.

u/Kong28 · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Whistles That is one NICE looking hood, you almost have me drooling on what the truck could look like. Ok so!

1st: Nice two bucket cleaning

2nd: Clay the car. was thinking of ordering this. From what I picked up from that Porsche 912 video in the sub and from the sidebar, I spray the clay lubricant on, then with little to no pressure wipe back and forth with the clay in a 18"x18" area. Does that sound right?

3rd: Acquire rubbing compound and hopefully a DA polisher. (By the way if getting a DA polisher isn't possible, is this still attainable by hand?)

4: Nice coat of wax

How does that sound?

u/devianteng · 1 pointr/guns

I'd recommend spending the money on a set of Grace USA punches. Bought mine from Amazon and I absolutely love them. I bought these. I also bought this set of Grace roll spring holders. Very useful for starting roll pins. A decent hammer (I have a dedicated brass mallet and a dedicated nylon mallet), and a [bench block] if you like things to be easy.

I also have a needle file set (don't remember the brand, but they were like $20 for 6-8 of them). For sanding on the internals I generally just use wet/dry sandpaper. Usually start with around 200-grit, and end with 800-grit. For polishing, Mothers Mag and Aluminum Polish and a white t-shirt. With enough time, it will give a nice mirror finish and be as smooth as ice.

u/vincentdc5 · 1 pointr/WRX

Yup that’s exactly what i used.
This stuff is amazing!

u/lipu-adam · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

If this is aluminum go with this one. One of my favorite products!

u/Johnlordly · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

They also have mag/aluminum wheel polish for almost half off. I really recommend this stuff. I have cheap aluminum american racing wheels on my jeep and this stuff makes them look real good.

u/xSFHx_beachbum · 1 pointr/Diesel

On my personal vehicle i clean them with soap and water. Then i use either a powerball or a Cotton buffing pad with Mothers mag polish. Take your time and it will look amazing.

u/RustyTheRedPanda · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish works well too. I use it all the time for my mods and other assorted things.

u/Tissue285 · 1 pointr/CalamariRaceTeam

Your mother usually does a good job cleaning my blow holes

u/averno2000 · 1 pointr/OldSchoolTools

They are called finger pump oil cans. Thanks for making me look that up!

First thing I did was scrub it down with some 000 steel wool and Goo Gone. I've never honestly seen anyone else use this combination but it works amazing on aluminum, steel, plated metals and tons of other stuff.

After I got all of the grim off I wiped it down with some all purpose cleaner.

Next I put a buffing ball on my drill and used some Mothers Aluminum polish. After a few pases with the mothers I cleaned off the ball, and finished out with some Blue Magic 400. The Mothers polish has a small amount of abrasive which helped smooth out what the steel wool did and the Blue Magic 400 has no abrasive and leaves a longer lasting protective coat then the Mothers. I have found you can make just about anything look new with this quick and easy method. Check out how nice it cleaned up the shocks on my bike Album.

u/tamir2424 · 1 pointr/hookah they sell it at walmart, it won't make it like it was out of the box but it can get it shiny again but be prepared to be at it for awhile. Imo just leave it be

u/Caelrie · 1 pointr/harmonica

When it's time to polish the metal, head to your local version of Walmart or Amazon and pick up some aluminum polish. I use Mother's. It's strong enough to work on the metals harmonicas use, but also pretty gentle. Just rub that on and if your cloth starts going black it's working. Get that elbow grease going and every few minutes wipe it off so you can see your progress. Repeat until fine scratches are gone and it's shiny new.

If you have deeper scratches, then you'll need to use sandpaper in increasingly finer grades first. 120 -> 220 -> 400 -> 1000 -> aluminum polish will take a seriously messed up cover plate to shiny new in about 15 minutes total. It's pretty easy to do.

This pack of sandpaperwill do hundreds of harps

Mother's polish

u/BigDabWolf · 1 pointr/Vaping

Mothers 05101 Mag & Aluminum Polish - plus a lil’ elbow grease

u/alitledarunk · 1 pointr/prusa3d

Ok, I was having a TON of problems with adhesion with PLA, and a fair deal of issues with PETG on the textured sheet. I tried it all: Lower Z, 99% alcohol, dish soap, increased bed temp. Everything was coming loose after a few layers, or warping (or warping worse with the higher bed temp). It would still warp with a 2cm brim.
I was seriously considering tossing the textured sheet because it was completely useless for me, so I tried a more drastic approach. I figured that acetone was risking chemically changing the surface (which is why they warn against it), so I decided instead to physically change the surface.
I got some "Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish" and softly polished one side of the textured sheet. This stuff has an extremely fine grit in it (aluminum oxide), and it scuffed/polished the top layer of the powder coat. I didn't polish too hard, I didn't want to change the look or texture of the sheet. After that, I washed the surface thoroughly with dish soap, dried it with towels, did a pass with the 99% alcohol, then heated the bet to 80c for a few min.
The difference was night and day. PLA sticks incredibly well (nozzle 200c, bed 50c), but still easily pops off with a light bend of the sheet. It didn't change the surface texture of the sheet at all, you still get that nice textured finish. I haven't tested PETG on it yet, but considering how well the PLA sticks, I'll only want to only do small test parts first until I have confidence that the bigger parts will actually pop off (I still have the reverse side of the sheet for PETG in case this polished side works too well). I've accumulated about 50h of printing on the polished textured sheet now without issue.
WARNING: Mothers contains petroleum distillates. I'm not a chemist, but I may have in the end actually chemically changed my textured sheet anyways (similar to what using acetone would have done). I don't know if there will be long term issues with this method, but in my case, I at least turned a useless textured sheet into something I can actually use for a bit.
This is the stuff I used:

u/ivehadworsemondays · 1 pointr/GalaxyWatch

Thank you. Is this the one?

Mother's 05101 Mag and Aluminum Polished Metal, 283 g

u/psychotronofdeth · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

I use mother's aluminum polish on my exhaust tips. It works great!

Mothers 05101 Mag & Aluminum Polish - 10 oz

u/Jynxmaster · 1 pointr/videos

If anyone has lots of scratches/defects in their paint, here are a couple steps that really make a huge difference for a total of ~$25:

u/TabascoButthole · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Hence why I still don't use a foam cannon or foam gun. If I have a bunch of caked on crud, I have a pump bug spray thing I use to spray Simple Green/soap mixture onto the area (usually wheel wells, tires, wheels).

u/Autorotator · 0 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

The plastic on that cluster makes me uncomfortable. Must... Plastix

u/dreakon · 0 pointsr/buildapc

I've always used this stuff

to clean and polish my CPUs and heatsinks. You get the same results, and not quite as risky as sandpaper. You may want to try it out next time.

u/Lev_Astov · 0 pointsr/ValveIndex

I'd recommend a standard Magic Eraser type thing available at any grocery store in the US:

If it really abraded the surface, you may need to polish it with something like Novus III & II:

u/CreepShowGirl666 · 0 pointsr/Leathercraft




I use these on my handmade boots to keep them in good condition.

Also, watch some youtube videos.

u/seg-fault · 0 pointsr/FocusST
u/JustWantToChange · -1 pointsr/Honda

really? I don't need to have it repainted or anything? You're 100% sure clay bar will work? I need to find out what that is. And are you talking about something like this?