(Part 2) Best car care products according to redditors

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We found 5,373 Reddit comments discussing the best car care products. We ranked the 1,429 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.

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Subcategories:

Car cleaning kits
Exterior car care products
Car finishing products
Glass care products
Interior care products
Solvents
Tire & wheel care products
Automotive tools & equipment
Automotive undercoatings

Top Reddit comments about Car Care:

u/[deleted] · 148 pointsr/pics

this one is a bit cheaper and has Prime

looks like the other one sold out anyway. these guys are about to get a crash course in the power of grassroot marketing.

u/ac106 · 104 pointsr/malefashionadvice
  1. wipe them down with a damp rag to get off any surface dirt.

  2. if there are salt stains, get a cup of water and mix in some white vinegar. Repeat #1

  3. let them dry thoroughly. overnight is preferable

  4. go on amazon and get Bick 4 and a Horse hair brush

  5. follow directions on Bick 4.

  6. Repeat #5 (probably several times)

    7 Reevaluate at this point. If it's still not up to par, post on r/goodyearwelt and r/RedWingShoes for further advice.
u/Sallyjack · 56 pointsr/BuyItForLife

So do 47 other people want to go splitses on the 48 pack for $63.00?

edit - Rechecked. Even w/Prime it's $63.00+$9.99 shipping. Still, that's $1.52 each.

u/Maniacmous · 56 pointsr/pics

I can confirm, similar idea does work. I use this - https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-ACC-201-BRUSH-MD-Medium-Attachment/dp/B003TU662Y/ref=sr_1_5_s_it?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1500734602&sr=1-5&keywords=drill+brush

Spray on some cleaner, let sit 3-5 minutes, hit with drill brush, spray off. Fast, easy, spotless.

u/Dearness · 50 pointsr/powerwashingporn

I got both from amazon. They work so well.

Chemical Guys CARPET BRUSH W/DRILL ATTACHMENT - MEDIUM DUTY - YELLOW https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B003TU662Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_k3zKwCmEwanvm

ULTIMATE GROUT CLEANER: Best Grout Cleaner for Tile and Grout Cleaning, Acid-Free Safe Deep Cleaner & Stain Remover for Even the Dirtiest Grout, Best https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000Y232BI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_EIDdNrQ4jYuhS

u/RhymesWithDonna · 26 pointsr/Wrangler

Is it sticky? If not, it's highly likely that it "stained" because it's actually conditioning the plastic, which is technically good for it. Go buy yourself a can of plastic conditioner and do all of your faded plastic. Your Jeep will shine and look newer, and you'll never be able to tell you were egged.

Edit: like this stuff. You can get it pretty much anywhere with an auto section.


(8000 edits later because I forgot how to link format...more coffee, please.)

u/Hothabanero6 · 19 pointsr/Surface

Sorry 16:9 is a looser guy. I guess we all have preferences but 16:9 sucks for web, sucks for docs, sucks for books, it's only good for video.

Someone in another article recommended the Alcantara cleaner on Amazon this is the first one I saw... didn't do a deep search.
https://www.amazon.com/Sonax-206141-Upholstery-Alcantara-Cleaner/dp/B00BBWJ16U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494025436&sr=8-1&keywords=alcantara

u/daniell61 · 17 pointsr/motorcycles

/u/jwinskowski please feel free to PM me at anytime for this. EDIT: if your tank is MATTE don't use products not designed for it! (Shampoo is fine for either)

TLDR rinse bucket and bucket with soap. use auto products. dont drop your MF cloths.


I'm not familiar with Guzzi's clearcoat so ill play towards the cautious side.


Personally I'd pick up a shampoo/conditioner and a basic wash mit thats microfiber made (attracts dirt better and wont mar your question)

(I can recommend 3D pink shampoo. cheap AND I love it)

next up a light compound (you can use meguiars ultimate compound. cheap inexpensive and hard to mess up) this brings out that POP in paint pretty easy to use with a hand applicator which are also cheap :)

next upppp paint polish. this is VERY subjective. I prefer mckees37 stuff but its more expensive than most like. I can also recommend meguiars ultimate polish. good and inexpensive :)

after wards you'll need a wax. meguiars ultimate liquid wax is a great starter and once again inexpensive. (I prefer trademark extender/policoat form mckees37) easy on easy off if you're taking you're time.

afterwards you can call it quits and bam you're done.

or keep going and seal your paint to keep that POP lasting. I HIGHLY recommend collinite 845 as its inexpensive as hell and STUPID easy to apply!!

also Mckees 37 SIO 2 ceramic coating is even easier but $.

then theres coatings. you can use something like Cquarts or even carpro....I personally juse use SIO2 from mckees37 currently. spray on wash off bam. not as effective but beyond stupid easy.


oh and also pick up some microfiber cloths of your choice. theres no right/wrong for them other than DONT DROP EM AND KEEP EM CLEAN.


links to products named

ultimate megs wax

ultimate polish megs

sio 2 coating 10% off ad warning


trademark extender wax spray

3D pink car soap/shampoo


collinite 845

ultimate compound megs

ultimate liquid wax -bigger AG carried

megs ult polish AG carried

Autogeek also price matches to a fair extent! and IF you're local you can pick up. :D


these microfibers are damn nice but $

I personally use these and they're lit. 16 pack and heavy duty enough to last a while

wash mitt I use


even NEW I can highly recommend clay baring your paint dis or the kit if you're new


oh and IF your brake pads literally ooze brake dust....this stuff takes time but takes care of the dust easily linky smells WAY better than carpro even at a lower concentration :p

/u/solitudechirs thanks for the tag

/u/CG_Ops dat wall o text

u/zenautodetailing · 16 pointsr/AutoDetailing

2008 BMW Z4M Coupe

I can't believe I haven't posted in so long. This job is back from February.

I performed my Maintenance Package on this 2008 BMW Z4M for a client. This client emailed me about wanting a maintenance Detail on their vehicle. I informed them that this package is usually reserved for previous clients because of the cleanliness requirements (clayed vehicle). I figured worse case scenario I'd bring everything if it's too dirty and needs more stuff.

Products Used:

Wash

u/nerdcorerising · 15 pointsr/Cartalk

If you didn’t ask for oem parts you definitely got an aftermarket windshield. That shouldn’t matter though, even an aftermarket windshield should be good enough you can see out of it.

On one of my cars I had a greasy film on the inside of the windshield when I bought it. I tried everything to get rid of it and nothing worked until I bought a special tool like this one. The tool cleaned it great.

u/Jhadur · 11 pointsr/AutoDetailing

>Wash car using 2 bucket method, wash mitt. For soap I am using Meguiars Carnuba Wash

Yep, 2 bucket method and remember to use the right ratio of soap to water. I think that soap is 1oz --> 1 Gallon. I tend to use an old laundry cup and mark the different oz on that cup so that i know i have the right ratios.

>Scrub car with Nanoskin sponge, and a soapy mitt - or should I use ONR - what ratio.

Baggy test the paint but it most cases for a newbie there paint will need a clay/decon. IronX or TriX(Tar and Iron remover) is a nice thing to have but really is a luxury. In the case with what lubrication to use while you nanoskin, I like o just use my soapy water that is at the right ratio and should be clean due to the to bucket wash keeping junk out of the wash bucket. If your using ONR as clay lube the ratio 1:64.

>Rinse car with water

Yep using the flood method. The water should just sheet off and shouldn't leave much behind. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WAmb9DWdnFc

>Dry with ONR 1:16 ratio & Dry Me a River towell - is that a good ratio?

With ONR less is more in most cases. This will leave some behind. If i used ONR as a clay lube then the 1:64 is what i would be using. If i am mixing fresh i would be going 1:128. Reminder to pre-wet your towel wring it out.

>Wax - I was going to use Meguiar's G12718 NXT Generation Tech Wax 2.0 I am not sure about this one to be honest. My car is a daily driver, so I want something that will last a long time. Is there something else I should be using? Maybe the Meguiar's ultimate liquid wax instead? https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G18216-Ultimate-Liquid-Wax/dp/B004HCM9H4/

The biggest thing for protection staying is the prepwork. The step alot of people tend to forget is using IPA wipedown after everything as this will give the surface the cleanest, and driest area for the protection to bond to.


The Meguiar's NXT Tech Wax is also Meguiar's Sealant M21. This should get you 3-4 months depending on where the car is kept(inside vs outside 24/7)

The Meguiar's ultimate liquid wax they pushed more for a beading looking because care enthused like that. I think if you have the budget I would get Jescars Powerlock and Collinate 845 look for these on autogeek,autopia-carcare, fav detailing site as they will tend to have deals better than amazon

I would watch https://youtu.be/34GKKyrFrFI?list=PLG_BGdABDC9vWAZVwdmLNAU7J7kwNmJGH and kind of follow it but depending on the level of effort you want to put in.

If your looking to get just one protection product I would get Collinate 845


Any protection truly lasting longer then 6 months is either on a car that isn't exposed to the elements or is a coating. Protection should be reapplied at regular intervals. My daily driver is black, 3 kids and sits outside 24/7 so my interval is 3 months.


Hope this helps and enjoy your detailing path.

u/JoeyOhhh · 11 pointsr/AutoDetailing

This was my first attempt at engine detailing and I think it went pretty well! I covered some of the electrical components (alternator, battery terminals, etc) and proceeded with the typical spray down of water, followed by a good misting of APC, followed by agitation with a Solo Horton brush, and rounded out with another misting of water. I finished the process by drying the engine bay with a leaf blower and a coating of 303 Aerospace Protectant. Looks good to me!


Products Used:

u/LagunaGTO · 11 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Overview


Time to finally do my car during the weekend of July 30th. This car had not been detailed since July 2014 and has had a lot more miles added on it. Sunday, 7/16/17, this car turned 5 years old and is now at 53k miles.

This car is garage kept at home for most of the time. Parked in an open parking lot during work hours. Sometimes street parked. It experiences full Chicago winters though and all elements. Sees all driving modes from stop-and-go traffic to 130mph+ highway cruises and local streets.

The goal was to get everything I wanted done on a Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. Friday it decided to rain several times during the wash, but that was all good. I still kept washing in the rain and used the rain as some of my rinses. I had to get out of dodge by 4pm Sunday so I could avoid the country bugs on my drive back home to the city.

I left the following on the table to get done before winter comes:

  • Windshield restoration (full polishing and treatment application)
  • Headlight and Tail Light Restoration (just need to be polished and then have coating applied)

    ---

    Work Done


    The goal was to get it done so now I don't have to worry about it again for another 2-3 years. I wanted to get the paint corrected to an acceptable level and then put a good amount of protection on it to survive at least 2 winters and 2 summers.

    As the title states, I tried to accomplish a lot here.

  • Wash, Clay, & Protectant
  • Paint Correction
  • Paint Coating (2 layers)
  • Tip Restoration
  • The Exceptional Interior
  • Paint Chip Repair
  • Trim Restoration

    Services described here

    The entire detail is outlined in the album, but I will share the gist of it here so I can link products.

    The exterior was properly washed with our 20-stage decontamination and wash process. Here is the fire hose nozzle I use tied up with a quick shut-off valve. TRIX was awesome as always. It turned a good amount of purple all over and made the claybarring step go smoothly. The entire car was 1-step corrected with the PC and a Blue Wool Pad/orange 4" foam pad/hand orange pad and Menzerna Heavy Cut Compound 400 (formerly FG400).

    The car was around a 85% for paint quality. I'd say this 1-step easily got it to ~93%. It removed the majority of glaringly obvious defects and it would only take a detailer's mindset now to see that final 7% of defects.

    The exterior was completely wiped clean with CarPro Eraser. The car was then coated entirely with CarPro CQuartz (2 layers) and then topped with CarPro Reload.

    The interior was vacuumed and then was completely cleaned with McKee's 37 Total Interior Cleaner. This product is my go-to for interiors. It works flawlessly and it has a great smell that does linger and just smells naturally clean. I use these types of interior clothes for working with that product. This brush was also utilized to help really get around the leather pores and locations like air vents and the steering wheel.

    All interior hard surfaces were treated with Lexol Premium Protectant. Glass was all cleaned with glass MF towels and Stoner's Invisibile Glass.

    I cleaned the engine. Finally. The engine was completely cleaned using Chemical Guy's All Clean+ and just general microfiber clothes from a place like AutoZone. The engine was then dressed with Adam's In & Out Spray to enhance the appearance of all plastic/rubber parts.

    Door jambs were cleaned up with an MF and P21S Total Auto Wash.

    Paint chips were fixed up with the Dr. Colorchip kit. Felt good to finally clean that rust chip on the hood and fix the trunk damage up some more.

    The honeycomb grills were cleaned up with a foam application, MF towel, and Klasse All-in-One. Topped with Adam's In&Out Spray.

    The exhaust tips were cleaned up using 0000 Steel Wool and Blue Magic Metal Polish and Adam's Metal Polish #1. I used a metal polishing microfiber towel to aid in this process.

    The trim was cleaned with the CG All Clean+ and then dressed with Chemical Guys Natural Matte Shine Dressing.

    The tires were dressed with AMMO MUD and the wheel wells shined up with Adam's Undercarriage Spray. Wheels were cleaned up with a very soft microfiber and P21S Wheel Cleaner.

    ---

    Response


    I loved it. It feels so good to drive it again like this. Just want to touch up a few more things and I'll be fully satisfied. I absolutely am so much happier now that my engine is clean again.


    ---

    Reflection and Lessons Learned


    Not much here outside of just taking care of the car more. I neglected that engine bay for too long but thankfully it was mostly dust. The exhaust tips should have been taken care of more. At least every spring/fall. I will continue to take care of them now 2x a year so they can maintain where they are at and not get worse.

    Preventative maintenance very much applies to detailing as much as it applies to anything mechanical.

    ---

    Total Time: 17 hours on exterior, 3 hours on interior

    Total Cost: Obviously free for me, but to give an idea of what I would have charged for this...it would have been $1,933.98. The 2 layers of coating and Reload would have been $900 alone. The rest of my prices you can see on my site.

    www.chicagosdad.com

    www.facebook.com/chicagosdad

    Former Chicago's DAD /r/AutoDetailing Detail Write-Ups

u/581087 · 10 pointsr/mazda3

That will buff out.

But seriously, it will buff out. It looks like paint transfer.

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10307-ScratchX-2-0-oz/dp/B0002UNON8

A product like this should remove it no problem.

u/larrymoencurly · 10 pointsr/buildapc

First of all, do NOT submerge the hard drive or even soak it because it is not airtight or watertight but has some tiny holes that can let in liquids. Keep the hard drive and any optical drives dry, and just wipe off their exteriors with a damp paper towel.

To clean the case and electronics, you can use
aerosol electronic parts cleaner that's rated as safe for all plastics, something like THIS (available at hardware stores, auto parts stores, and even Walmart). Do not use other chemicals, like brake parts cleaner, which can dissolve plastics. Hold circuit boards and even the case at slight angles so the liquid will run off and not pool. Spray into the sockets -- DIMMs, PCI-E, USB. Let everything dry very, very thoroughly before applying power again, at least 24 hours. A car parked in the sun with the windows only slightly opened can bake everything at over 100-120 degrees F. Take precautions against generating static electricity, i.e., put the motherboard into a metallic bag (not on it -- those bags are usually anti-static only inside), but to let moisture escape, don't seal it.

u/chadcf · 10 pointsr/pics

You can buy everything online, though it's easier to go to a harbor freight with a coupon if you have one. There are plenty of polishers you can buy online of course, but none are as cheap (at least with decent quality) as the harbor freight model. You can of course buy a much better polisher at your local lowes / home depot however unless you have a lot more use for it it's probably not worth it over the harbor freight one (a good polisher will cost you $200+). Everything else you can find at any auto parts store, or maybe even walmart.

Here's some links

  1. Start with touch ups if needed. Apply touchup paint to chips with a toothpick, in small amounts. Let it dry and do another one, build it up until it's above the level of the surrounding paint (may take many coats). Let it dry at least several days and make sure it hasn't sunk in. After it's dried for several days, use some water and the sanding block to gently sand them down flush with the rest of the paint. It will look bad, don't worry. Give the paint a few weeks to cure before moving on.
  2. Wash the whole car with dawn dish soap and let it dry. Mix up some dish soap (maybe 1 tablespoon) with water in a spray bottle. Spray a section with the soapy water and then rub it down with the clay. This is a very mild abrasive which will remove contaminates, tar, bugs, etc and give you smooth clean paint. Wash car after.
  3. Use the rubbing compound with the cutting pad everywhere you can. Don't try to get into tight areas or spots where you can't put the pad flush, because you'll shred the foam pad. Do the tough spots by hand with foam pads. Wash the car to remove any residue.
  4. Repeat with the polish pad and polish, same technique as with cutting.
  5. Apply the duragloss to a clean car by hand with the cloth applicators. Use sparingly, then wipe off with microfiber rags.

    You are done! In most environments the duragloss will last 6+ months. If you keep your car protected with it, you won't need to do the cutting/polishing again (or at least, not for a while).

    The trickiest part of the whole process is the compounding and polishing. Here are some helpful videos.

  1. If you have black rubber trim, say around the windows, mirrors, door handles, etc you either need to keep the polisher away from it or put masking tape on top of it. The rubbing compound and polisher will scuff up softer materials like rubber and it will look bad.
  2. When working with the polisher, always turn it off while still on the surface of the car (preferably still moving it) and let it slow down before lifting it off. If you life the polisher off at full speed it might send the polishing pad flying (it's held on with sturdy velcro). When this happens the velcro is basically shot and you're going to need to get a new pad. If you make sure you always turn it off while still in contact with the car, and you don't try to put it on any sharp corners or narrow areas where you can't get good flat pressure across the whole pad, you should be able to do the entire car with a single pad.
u/Chadman108 · 9 pointsr/AutoDetailing

It's hard to tell from the pictures but it looked dirty and scratched to begin with, and now it just looks scratched and hazy.

What products did you use?

I use this

u/trinitesla · 9 pointsr/teslamotors

Soap

Interior Cleaner

Foam Cannon

Scratch Free Wash Mitt

I'm really enjoying what chemical guys has to offer in their cleaning line up. I'm going to pick up hydro charge from them soon. It's a spray on ceramic coating.

The chamois and quick detailer help to remove grime, oil spots or whatever they are. It's very apparent on a white car. but glad I can actually see it too remove it versus another color car.

​

cc: u/simply_lime

u/Y4VIN · 9 pointsr/prius

There's a kit for it...and I don't know the name. I assume go to Amazon and look up trim kit.

Edit: dammit i looked it up for you:

Amazon Link

Scrub the surface with a good de-greaser and rinse it well, scrub a couple times until the suds no longer change color and apply this product and they will look like new.

Not permanent once again, but it will last longer than most (1-2 weeks).

Also contains a sunscreen.

Make sure you shake it well each time before using.

You need to put several coats.

Be careful to avoid the car's paint areas.

u/0bviousTruth · 9 pointsr/TeslaModel3

I've posted my list before:

Car Wash Shampoo: Chemical Guys Maxi Suds II Amazon link

Quick Detailer: Chemical Guys High Gloss Spray Sealant & Quick Detailer Amazon Link

Wax/Sealant (every 6 months): Blackfire Pro Paint Protection (previously Blackfire Wet Diamond All Paint Protection) Amazon Link

Clay Bar (every 12 months): Simoniz S57 Perfect Finish Detailing Clay Amazon Link

Clear Plastics (head/tail lights): Plexus Plastic Cleaner & Protectant Amazon Link

Plastic/Vinyl/Rubber/Leather: 303 Aerospace Protectant Amazon Link

Door/Trunk/Frunk Seals: 303 (above) or Nextzett Gummi Pflege Rubber Conditioner Amazon Link

Glass: Stoner Invisible Glass Amazon Link


Wheels: Griot's Garage Wheel Cleaner Amazon Link

Tires: Aero Low Shine Rubber Care Amazon Link

u/JohnAV1989 · 9 pointsr/Wrangler

Brass ice scraper Dirt cheap and yet no other scraper will get ice off your windshield as quickly and easily.

Also enjoy! Wranglers are great in the snow. Just remember 4 wheel drive is not 4 wheel stop.

u/rckymtnrfc · 9 pointsr/hwatch

Someone bought these polishing sheets on Amazon and posted the results. Looked good as new. I bought them also.....they are sitting on my counter.

Cape Cod® Metal Polishing Cloths Foil Pouch 0.53oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017H3PIO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_mzSrybEFT4MJX

u/dr_dingy · 9 pointsr/malefashionadvice

I would recommend using Bickmore Bick 4 leather conditioner . Its the best stuff out there and doesn't darken leather.

u/qovneob · 8 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Great list. Now is also a good time to replace any snow shovels/scrapers and what not - before the snow comes. Too many people wait till the last minute then every store is going to sell out.

Edit: If you're looking for a scraper, this brass one is by far the best I've used. Its dirt cheap, you can get 10 for like $22 and does an amazing job. Far better than any plastic nonsense I've used. The only downside is that its short, but if you're scraping ice you're probably choked up on it anyway.

u/FluxChiller · 8 pointsr/iPhoneX

Yes, plenty of people including myself have done it. Purchase these and just polish them off. Your phone will end up actually looking better than new.

https://www.amazon.com/Cape-Cod-Polishing-Cloths-0-53oz/dp/B0017H3PIO

Be carefully to just polish the metal and not the glass. I used painters tape to mask off those areas. Also try and steer clear of getting the polish into ports and holes. This works for fine scratches like from case rubbing and being in pockets with abrasive debris etc , these will not work for deep scratches from dropping it etc.

u/aywwts4 · 8 pointsr/Miata

Only hand wash, all the time, lovingly, with microfiber everything. It's going to be your new hobby, and on a car this size, takes less time than you would think to do it right.

Here is my amazon list, a lot of stuff has subscribe and save deals, everything Chemical Guys has been top notch.

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-MIC_493-Microfiber-Scratch-Free/dp/B003TTL0TE/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225930&sr=8-10&keywords=chemical+guys

http://www.amazon.com/303-30520-Convertible-Fabric-Cleaning/dp/B000A8JNF0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226066&sr=8-1&keywords=303+aerospace+protectant+convertible

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-MIC_506_12-Professional-Microfiber/dp/B00A8MZ7IA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225930&sr=8-3&keywords=chemical+guys

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-CWS_301-Citrus-Concentrated/dp/B004K9KETY/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225930&sr=8-6&keywords=chemical+guys

http://www.amazon.com/Collinite-Liquid-Insulator-Wax-845/dp/B000JK2D06/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225985&sr=8-1&keywords=collinite+insulator+wax OR http://www.amazon.com/Collinite-No-Super-Doublecoat-Auto/dp/B000AP8DZY/ref=pd_sbs_263_5?ie=UTF8&dpID=51Nde%2B7iakL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0KRY8VA4QS2RZE3XG1R5

http://www.amazon.com/Viking-862400-Blue-Microfiber-Applicator/dp/B0051MYL8E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226014&sr=8-2&keywords=microfiber+applicator

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-TVD_109_16-Sprayable-Dressing/dp/B001TI1F5Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226032&sr=8-3&keywords=chemical+guys+tire+shine

http://www.amazon.com/Mothers-155700-Wheel-Brush/dp/B001GJ3DZS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226178&sr=8-1&keywords=tire+brush

u/tradotto · 8 pointsr/climbing

This
then this then this

u/solitudechirs · 7 pointsr/motorcycles

/u/daniell61 is all about that detailing. Here's a recent comment from him

---

do you know if that [bike] is primarily plastic or primarily metal?

for metal polishes (non painted) I can recommend marine 31's metal polish. shit works wonders on oxidized metals!!! (its my go to for non painated)



leather? any car marketed leather cleaner would be fine. I prefer mckees37 or meguiars to be fair.

for plastics I like this. a lot

leahter cleaner here

for learning these microfibers are a good cost effective start and you wont be hurt when they die and you replace them.

I can recommend any mckees37 towels or the rag company microfibers.

this or 3D pink soap (dirt cheap but i love it) is a great soap for washing without stripping waxes!


if you're like me and dont have time to clean...

once you're done. spray this and wash it off and boom bam you're set to go and have a good quality glass silia coating! here

I like mckees products a fair bit ;)

for sake of easy ass waxing I like extender wax but I do also like meguiars quik wax. that stuffs damn cheap but good. sadly its carnuba only :(

---

here's another one

---

TLDR rinse bucket and bucket with soap. use auto products. dont drop your MF cloths.


Personally I'd pick up a shampoo/conditioner and a basic wash mit thats microfiber made (attracts dirt better and wont mar your question)

(I can recommend 3D pink shampoo. cheap AND I love it)

next up a light compound (you can use meguiars ultimate compound. cheap inexpensive and hard to mess up) this brings out that POP in paint pretty easy to use with a hand applicator which are also cheap :)

next upppp paint polish. this is VERY subjective. I prefer mckees37 stuff but its more expensive than most like. I can also recommend meguiars ultimate polish. good and inexpensive :)

after wards you'll need a wax. meguiars ultimate liquid wax is a great starter and once again inexpensive. (I prefer trademark extender/policoat form mckees37) easy on easy off if you're taking you're time.

afterwards you can call it quits and bam you're done.

or keep going and seal your paint to keep that POP lasting. I HIGHLY recommend collinite 845 as its inexpensive as hell and STUPID easy to apply!!

also Mckees 37 SIO 2 ceramic coating is even easier but $.

then theres coatings. you can use something like Cquarts or even carpro....I personally juse use SIO2 from mckees37 currently. spray on wash off bam. not as effective but beyond stupid easy.


oh and also pick up some microfiber cloths of your choice. theres no right/wrong for them other than DONT DROP EM AND KEEP EM CLEAN.


links to products named

ultimate megs wax

ultimate polish megs

sio 2 coating 10% off ad warning


trademark extender wax spray

3D pink car soap/shampoo


collinite 845

ultimate compound megs

ultimate liquid wax -bigger AG carried

megs ult polish AG carried

Autogeek also price matches to a fair extent! and IF you're local you can pick up. :D


these microfibers are damn nice but $

I personally use these and they're lit. 16 pack and heavy duty enough to last a while

wash mitt I use


even NEW I can highly recommend clay baring your paint dis or the kit if you're new


oh and IF your brake pads literally ooze brake dust....this stuff takes time but takes care of the dust easily linky smells WAY better than carpro even at a lower concentration :p

u/tookawhile · 7 pointsr/trees

If anyone is concerned about a cracking dash in 2019, use a UV protectant or tint your windows.

u/MorrisBark · 7 pointsr/NewOrleans

I clean my own jewelry with this polish and double layer cloths.

I got an heirloom platinum ring resized at Symmetry three years ago. They were honest with me about time frame and gave me a discount in the end. I would recommend them to anyone based on my experience, though I know others may not have had the same.

u/lanmansa · 7 pointsr/AutoDetailing
  1. Lexol Leather Cleaner and Conditioner is very good. Usually readily available (at least here in the states), and inexpensive and effective. The cleaner is very mild, so if you need something stronger to remove stubborn dirt you can try a diluted all purpose cleaner. Megiuar's is very safe for interior and can be diluted. I've also used Megiuar's Quick Interior Detailer and it works very well, and doesn't leave any sort of residue behind.

  2. Try something like 303 Aerospace protectant or Cockpit Premium. https://www.amazon.com/nextzett-92470515-Cockpit-Premium-16-9/dp/B0002Z2MZ4/ They will leave behind UV protection without any greasy residue. Very good quality premium products.

  3. Any cheap brush will do. More expensive brushes will just hold up better over time, not really worth it IMO if you are just cleaning your personal car. I use a couple of cheap brushes from Amazon and a couple of paint brushes and they work just fine. Whatever you can find locally for a good price. I have separate brushes for carpet, interior plastics, and a tire and wheel brush so I don't cross-contaminate. Also, you need a stiffer bristle for carpets than you do for plastics obviously.

  4. Any microfiber from The Rag Company. I believe they just recently opened their Europe store last month. https://www.theragcompany.shop/

  5. You don't need a steamer, it just makes things faster to clean. If you have dirty upholstery that needs to be cleaned, just use an all purpose cleaner diluted in a spray bottle, spray it down, let it sit for a few minutes, then blot clean with a rag. For carpets, you can do a bit of scrubbing with a brush first, and then blot dry with a rag to soak up moisture and remove the dirt. This video will show you how to do it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OiO52BU256M

    Also, Larry from Ammo NYC has some amazing videos that are worth watching that will teach you a lot. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R0EOb2nEWtk&t=684s

    Hope this helps!
u/majesticjg · 7 pointsr/teslamotors

Because these are synthetics, you can use a non-rise all-purpose cleaner like this one.

Also, I think durability is why we don't have the perforated, vented seats anymore.

u/KAM1KAZ3 · 7 pointsr/AutoDetailing

>Should I clay bar and/or wax windows?

Yes. I clay my windows, especially my windshield, every 2-3 weeks. I use Stoner's Invisible Glass cleaner. And I use Aquapel instead of wax on my windows because it last much much longer.

>Should I wax plastic (unpainted, rough texture, black) exterior trim? If not, what product to protect this?

No. I like to use 303 Aerospace Protectant

>Should I clay bar and/or wax headlights? I'm pretty sure I've read that this is a yes, and I did this time, but just checking.

Yes. I would be a little hesitant about the clay marring plastic headlights though. Since they are much softer than paint/glass.

>How do I know when a clay bar needs replacing?

When it starts to look dirty. After you finish claying a section fold the clay over on itself then start the next section. When are you reshaping between sections and you aren't able to find a clean spot of clay, it's time for a new piece. And if you drop it on the ground pick it up and throw it right in the garbage.

u/rmkjr · 7 pointsr/AppleWatch

Cape Cod Metal Polishing Cloths Foil Pouch 0.53oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017H3PIO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_F6w0AbEJ739V8

u/Vermillionbird · 7 pointsr/malefashionadvice

I use Bick 4, it doesn't darken leather and a little bit goes a long way--one bottle has lasted me almost two years.

u/pbs094 · 6 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Rag Company Starter Kit - $30 - Includes wash mitt and other assorted towels needed to get started.

2 buckets from Home Depot - $6

2 Grit Guards - $18

Megs Gold Class Soap - $9

Megs Gold Class Carnauba - $11

einszett Cockpit Premium - $10

Stoner Invisible Glass Cleaner - $4

Chemical Guy's APC - $10

Optibond Tire Gel - $11


Grand Total of $109

There are obviously some nicer products you could get, but this is a great start for a beginner I think.

u/TangiestIllicitness · 6 pointsr/Equestrian

Another vote for "soak and wear". For my last pair of boots, I stuck them in a tub of warm water for a minute or two (making sure the inside of the boots were also thoroughly soaked), put them on over riding socks, and then wore them to work. When I got home, I thoroughly conditioned them with Passier's Lederbalsam, and ta-da, broken in boots! I have heard some people say they have to do this once or twice, but that probably depends on just how tight they are.

For a less damp option, I've heard good things about Bick 4 quickly softening and breaking boots in. Might be worth a try.

u/JonSzanto · 6 pointsr/fountainpens

This is what I've been using for a few years. I've used it safely on vintage and modern pens, of course never using it on things like hard rubber pens. Only need to use a very small amount of product, and you can probably get by with the least aggressive polish (#2) for these scratches. Bonus points for trying it out on an old beat-up pen or other plastic object before using on your good pen.

u/OhSixTJ · 6 pointsr/Wrangler

Here's something to remove the scratches from that clear piece. Also supposedly works for soft top windows.

here

u/jhonizzle · 5 pointsr/Audi

Here are a couple videos that'll help with the use of products.

clay bar

everything clay bar, compound, and polish

As for the products I use/like I personally like the Meguiar's Ultimate compound and polish. However there are a ton of other options that do as well/or better. For clay I use a range of products, but for your use I would say Chemical Guys clay bar kit would probably do what you need.

Just an FYI you don't need to invest in a dual action polisher to compound and polish, it can be done by hand and save more than a couple dollars...but it'll take a while. I'd say start with clay and see where you're at afterwords. If you still have a bunch of paint transfer then go from there. Another thing I've heard will remove paint transfer (i've never tried it personally) is a carnauba wax, so if you have some around you can give that a go first.

If you do need paint work (it probably won't be as severe as a key) but this video will probably help if you want to try and tackle it yourself.

u/jxhenson91 · 5 pointsr/SVRiders

certainly.

  1. wash bike from to to bottom, after that use a clay bar on the paint! cant stress that enough. It removes all the embedded contaminants that the wash doesn't remove.https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Smooth-Surface-Clay-Kit/dp/B00063X7KG

  2. grab your buffing wheel (witch I used) or apply by hand some compound this is what I used https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM?th=1 use medium pressure with this, its super easy to put on and off. Just follow the instructions.

  3. after your done compounding the paint apply a polish, let it dry to a haze and wipe off. I used something like this https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-GAP-106-16-Polish-Sealant/dp/B004LPAP2I/ref=sr_1_10?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1486936548&sr=1-10&keywords=car+polish

  4. and final step, apply your wax to protect all your hard work, same application as the polish https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Ultimate-Liquid-Wax-oz/dp/B004HCM9H4/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1486936678&sr=1-4&keywords=car+wax

  5. also clay bar your wheels if they have a clear coat on them then apply a wax, don't get too crazy on them, but get the protection on so they stay shiny

  6. in between washings/ waxings use a quick detail spray

    also see r/AutoDetailing for the noob questions/ info. Its a huge help. so is Youtube! hope that points you in the right direction!
u/bereberedu · 5 pointsr/WindowsMR

Had a pretty bad scratch on one of my Samsung Odyssey lenses, and went through a few suggested solutions. Ended up using this to fix it: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UD0GIG?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf.

Use a microfiber cloth (not the ones that come with the kit), and start with the #2 polish, then go to #1. Read the directions too :)

u/nakedjay · 5 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Go to Amazon and order this (I like Meg's products),

u/Smitimus · 5 pointsr/lifehacks

It is one of these. I have them on S&S for this very purpose. Also works great for cleaning grout in the bathroom or on floors.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TU662Y/

u/MachWun · 5 pointsr/motorcycles



Meguiar's G15812 Ultimate Black Plastic Restorer - 12 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0055PD1H4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YFVOBbZXKR3GJ

u/Kalantal · 5 pointsr/Audi

Break fluid dissolves.. a lot of things.. so you may need something more aggressive to get it back to a uniform coloring. Though, I've used black plastic polish with success in spots similar to this before: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G15812-Ultimate-Plastic-Restorer/dp/B0055PD1H4

/r/AutoDetailing might be a good resource for this!

u/Harmonic_Content · 5 pointsr/MINI

I highly suggest staying away from any petroleum based product for your trim and tires. You want something that will provide UV protection and won't break down the plastic over time. 303 Products are fantastic and will extend the life of your plastic trim, tires, and rubber.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0185PU38A

u/SPARTANsui · 5 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Hello fellow Camaro, I like einszett products for my interior. link 1 link 2

I drive my car year round and these products work really well. The deep cleaner is of course the stronger of the two, but I've had good luck with it on my door sill plastic and my weathertech floor mats.

u/TakoChitsu · 5 pointsr/cars

Clean your windshield thoroughly. Get some glass cleaner that doesn't have any harsh chemicals in it. I personally use Invisible Glass:

Invisible Glass Premium Glass Cleaner - 19 oz, 91164 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007OWD2M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bAnAzbV5C5N9J.

Don't get the one that has the rain repellant. Spray it on, clean it well with a microfiber. Once you do that I spray some clay bar lube or soapy water (water+dawn) on the windshield and go at it with a clay bar. After claying the whole windshield, I splash some water on it and go at it with the glass cleaner again and dry the windshield. As another said, I apply car was onto the windshield, let it cure, buff it off. Try this and it might stop squeaking since you already tried changing wiper blades. Also, make sure to clean the wipers with glass cleaner too.

u/Cowzrul · 5 pointsr/LifeProTips

I don't get paid by these guys at all, but whatever the hell this stuff is, along with a microfiber towel, is by far the best glass cleaner I've ever found. I literally gave up on trying to clean my windshield for years, someone suggested this stuff to me and it's the only thing I've ever been able to use to get a legit streak free clean windshield.

https://www.amazon.com/Invisible-Glass-Premium-Cleaner-91164/dp/B0007OWD2M/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1521003421&sr=8-7&keywords=glass+cleaner&dpID=417hWzZ4qyL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

u/tabatchoy · 5 pointsr/MechanicAdvice
  1. Have your battery checked. Especially if it hasn't been changed in the past 5 years or so.

  2. Make sure your wiper fluid is rated to work below freezing! It would really suck to have your lines frozen when you need it. If you don't know (although you really should), flush and replace.

  3. Use a brass ice scraper. They're stronger than plastic in that they won't dent or warp, but softer than glass so it won't scratch your windshield.

  4. Treat your windows, or your windshield at the very least, with Aquapel. Works exactly like Rain X but lasts much longer and more consistently. This will make clearing your windows a cinch.

  5. Check your windshield wipers. If they skip or leave streaks, it's time to change them. I highly recommend the one-piece style over the skeleton-type(?) with multiple pinch points. Something like Trico Neoforms, Rain X Latitudes, or my personal favorites: Bosch Icons.
u/Shemyaza5 · 5 pointsr/XVcrosstrek

I use Invisible Glass (spray instead of the aerosol version). They also have a cleaning tool that makes it easier to clean the windshield from inside https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017K69MA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hDgCDbRDM4XEV

I use Turtle Wax Ice interior detailer to clean the dashboard, rubber mats, interior door panels, other plastic parts except for the media console.

u/fusionpit · 5 pointsr/subaruimpreza

get something like this for cleaning the inside of your windshield. As long as your spray the cleaner on the tool and not the inside of the windshield, you will have no problems with Eyesight.

u/OregonRaine · 5 pointsr/goodyearwelt

Mink oil will permanently darken the leather, FYI. For some, that's not a big deal. For others (myself included), darkening the leather is an undesirable outcome.

Personally, I'm a big fan of Bick 4, and I use it on most of my boots. I condition my boots 1-2 times/year, depending on their use.

u/Mancaveaccount · 5 pointsr/cars

lol why would you use a toothbrush unless you're a masochist!?

You can buy brushes that are like $6-$11 each, with varying bristle stiffness, and they last years.

I bought 3 Mothers brushes like 3 years ago and I'm still using them.

wheel contour brush. Hard bristles, great for tires and rim face.

long handle brush. Medium bristles, great for wheel wells and your wheel's barrel.

Wheel brush. a bonus brush if your feeling a bit extra. Has really soft bristles. Really gets a great lather going on your wheels.

u/pootastic · 4 pointsr/cars

First off, it's ok. I use those car washes often, because I don't have the facilities at home to wash my car there. Here's my step by step for easy, simple car care that does the 90% solution. (I.E. NOT paying $120+ for a detail, and NOT spending 6 hours on my car every week)

Go the the car wash, at night so the sun isn't baking the soap into your car.

Initially rinse the car at a low-power setting (usually not pulling the trigger on the wand will result in a half power spray) This is so that you aren't driving contaminates into your paint.

Soap the car down with the soap setting, still just spraying it. Soap the whole car and make sure to work top-down and the contaminates are running off.

Rinse car again. Rinse the brush too, very well. Feel it with your hand and ensure there's no grit.

Soap up car with brush, don't push hard, just light swirls.

Rinse car.

Immediately pull out shammy cloth or microfiber towels and dry car.

Go home for the rest of these steps.

buy Zymol brand cleaner wax

This stuff is fantastic. Ok, start on the top, spread a small, half dollar size squirt on the paint, and rub it out to cover 2-4 sq feet, keep rubbing and then stop, let it dry. (0-30 seconds, maybe as long as a minute) Then use a second cloth (dry) and rub it off, work in small circles. The paint below should be crystal clean and most of the slight spiderwebs in paint should be filled.

Do this to the whole car.

Go back and look over the paint. You'll find some deeper scrapes and scratches that aren't totally gone. That's ok. Use this: Meguiars Scratch-X It's great, use a small ammount (dime size) and rub into the scratches, polishing them and wipeing off the dried material with a second, clean dry cloth.

Now your whole car should be shiny, and not have any spider webs! Use any simple Meguiars brand polish to make it shine a bit more, but at this step I just use the spray on stuff.

Make sure to buy many many micro fiber towels. They are cheap. If you drop one on the ground, put it in the wash and grab another. I go through 8-10 when washing/ waxing. I know it sound common sense, but only use one for wax application, one for wax removal, one for glass, etc etc.

Now for wheels, I use this: TUFF STUFF It's safe for everything, it's also what I use to remove stains in the interior and clean my floor mats. It's super cheap and works great!! Spray on a wheel, wait 30 seconds, wipe off. Removes 90% of road grime and brake dust immediately. May need to touch up a couple spots. Rinse wheel off. Spray tire foam on the tire, wipe off excess.

Your car should look great and be scratch free. I will typically go out and 3-4 days later gently wipe off my car with micro fiber towels, and then go over with the quick detail spray by meguiars. Takes 10-15 minutes and the car instantly goes back to looking like I just washed it. During the summer I'll do this 2-3 times between real serious washings, so I only have to wash fully once a month!

(but my car is silver and easier to keep clean)

u/dbreaultjr · 4 pointsr/howto

simichrome .

Used this for years on my motorcycle chrome. Works awesome, and one tube lasts forever, as you only use a tiny bit.

u/Seventh777 · 4 pointsr/bikewrench

I've used this stuff in the past with great results:

https://smile.amazon.com/Simichrome-390050-Metal-Polish-Tube/dp/B0002YUQ4E

u/soupychan · 4 pointsr/Porsche

First, you should check /r/autodetailing

There's lots of options and everyone will have their favorites based on experience. One thing's for sure though, stop wiping down with ONLY water as that is probably making things worse other than getting some dirt and grime off. It makes the leather dry and prone to even more cracks. You need some sort of leather-specific PH-balanced cleaner and a conditioner to follow it.

My favorite value option that's easily sourced from your local Advance Auto/AutoZone is Lexol. Amazon has a kit that's pretty cheap for you to see if you like the results:
http://www.amazon.com/Lexol-907-Leather-Care-Kit/dp/B005H7DRQA

Gliptone is also another well-liked value option:
http://www.amazon.com/Gliptone-Leather-Care-Combination-Kit/dp/B003VV423G

There are other higher end brands like Leatherique and Leather Master, but the results just didn't feel it was worth the price difference.

As for the dashboard, avoid junk like Armor All. Go with something like Einszett Cockpit Premium: http://www.amazon.com/einszett-Cockpit-Premium-16-9-fl/dp/B0002Z2MZ4

u/r-a-f · 4 pointsr/CX5

I recently picked up some Meguiar’s Quik Interior Detailer Cleaner for like $5 at Walmart, based on the Wirecutter’s recommendation. It works great. I had a dashboard that had picked up a lot of dust and wouldn't really wipe clean because the surface is kind of sticky, and now it looks brand new.

u/boostdd · 4 pointsr/AppleWatch

They are surprisingly easy to repolish.

I use this and the watch looks brand new when I'm done. Removes scuffs as well!!!

u/Braddish · 4 pointsr/goodyearwelt

Very Important:

  • Horsehair Brush
  • Some sort of cleaner (Lexol)
  • Some sort of conditioner (Lexol, Bick4)

    Optional:

  • Buffing Rag - could also just use old socks or cotton shirts. Make sure whatever you use is 100% cotton since nylon can scratch
  • Pigmented Cream Polish - Can be used to recolor damaged spots and build a patina. WILL DARKEN YOUR SHOES.
  • Cuir Gras - My preferred conditioner for greasy leather (like CXL). Not necessary unless you want to spend the extra money over Lexol.

    Be sure to review the Leather Care section in the wiki to get a good overview of products and care techniques.
u/nope_nic_tesla · 4 pointsr/wsgy

Get a Kiwi leather care kit and some leather conditioner


  • Brush off your shoes with the brush

  • Use a damp sponge to wipe off any remaining dirt (if they are exceptionally dirty you can use saddle soap)

  • Dry off with a rag

  • Apply the leather conditioner, let dry/absorb and buff with the chimois

  • Apply polish with the sponge applicator, let dry for like an hour

  • Brush shoes again, then buff again with the chimois.

    Also it looks like your toes are starting to separate, in which case I'd use some Shoe Goo or just some super glue to readhere
u/orlheadlights · 4 pointsr/AutoDetailing
u/jauntworthy · 4 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I've always struggled to keep my vehicles clean because 1) they were always old, 2) I've lived in condos, 3) car washes did a terrible job / detailers charged too much, and 4) I didn't realize you could do all of this yourself pretty effectively.


When I bought a new truck at the beginnging of the year, I randomly stumbled upon an Ammo NYC video and the nerd / clean-freak was intrigued. A couple dozen videos later, and I was hooked. Shout out to Larry for your passion - thank you for the insane amount of information on your channel. (Wish I could afford all of your products, or that you had some of them on Amazon!).

Living in a condo, I have to swing by my local coin wash and take up a bay with a few buckets during off-peak hours, but I've gotten it down to 1.5 hours and looking like this every time.

I've only been doing this for a few months, but thought I'd share the products I've researched and selected based on reviews and costs. Hope this helps save someone time!

TOOLS

  • McGuire-Nicholas 22015 15-Inch Collapsible Tote - https://amzn.to/2HXGsvd - I love this thing. Handle is sturdy and holds every chemical I need.
  • Relentless Drive Ultimate Car Wash Mitt - https://amzn.to/2KJC7td - Great mitt and would strongly recommend it. I've only used the mitt for a few washes so I can't comment on durability, but if I had to guess I think it's going to hold up. My only complaint is that it's so voluminous that it's difficult to rinse / wring out the dirt when using the two-bucket method. Not a big enough problem to look for another mitt, though.

    BUCKETS

  • Chemical Guys ACC_101 Detailing Bucket Kit - https://amzn.to/2KJb552 - a good starter bucket, but it's worth calling out how much of this stuff is BS marketing: the bucket is only 4 gallons, the gamma lid can be bought for cheaper on amazon, the citrus gloss is OK, and the wash mitt is worthless / isn't going to hold up. I barely used the mitt once and fuzz falls off constantly when handling.
  • Adam's Grit Guard Wash Bucket with Lid - https://amzn.to/2IoSflo - Better value than chemical guys, but the bucket is just a regular bucket ($4 at Home Depot) and the gamma lid can be purchased for $10-15 on Amazon. I'm not convinced grit guards are worth it, but more on that later.
  • Grit Guard Washboard Bucket Insert - https://amzn.to/2HW4juZ - the product is well made and does what it's intended to do, but I'm skeptical of its value. Yes, rubbing your mitt on a washboard would intuitively get dirt to fall off, but is it actually more effective than using your hands (which you do anyway to wring out the mitt)? And I'm not buying that the fins "trap dirt." Anybody who looks at their rinse bucket while washing wheels for example can plainly see the water's black. Dirt's floating everywhere.


    CHEMICALS

  • Mothers 08216 California Gold Instant Detailer - https://amzn.to/2KJ2f7t - this stuff has done a pretty good job for quick wipe-downs, spot cleans, etc.
  • Griot's Garage 11108 Window Cleaner - https://amzn.to/2Iq5CSF - The spray bottle itself is awesome and works really well. The solution also seems to work well, though I've only ever used it after washing the truck and so I'm not sure how much it helps.
  • Meguiar's G3626 Ultimate Waterless Wash & Wax - https://amzn.to/2jFg3DJ - I used this a few times with the microfiber directional pass method after some serious pollen clouds invaded Austin, and it worked surprisingly well. Ran through 3-4 towels to do my entire truck, then spot-cleaned with an instant detailer. Even though wheel wells and a few pieces were still dirty, it was a huge improvement without the hassle of a full wash. Will definitely be using this as my in-between wash method.
  • Chemical Guys V7 High Gloss Spray Sealant and Quick Detailer - https://amzn.to/2HXiQ9R - I'm new to detailing, but this stuff is probably the most impressive chemical of everything I've used. The combination of a damp microfiber + V7 produces the result everyone thinks about when they think about car washes: a clean car with no streaks or water spots. Wringing out my microfiber towel can get old, but the end result is just awesome.
  • Chemical Guys Citrus Wash and Gloss - https://amzn.to/2I1knvx - I don't have the luxury of a frother right now, but from simply adding some in a bucket and using a power washer to generate suds, I get decent foam and the soap seems to work well. That said, it's not earth-shattering and I will probably try other washes when I run out.


    INTERIOR

  • Mothers 06512 All-In-One Leather Care - https://amzn.to/2IlawAg - This stuff works great and smells even better.


    WHEELS

  • Adam's Deep Wheel Cleaner - https://amzn.to/2K09l6f - The spray bottle is terribly difficult to press and I always end up using way more than I want. I'm not confident I need to use this instead of just using soap. Maybe it's for exceptionally dirty cars or those with tons of brake dust, but I'm rarely in either camp so I may not buy some more after I run out.
  • Adam's Hex-Grip Pro Tire Dressing Applicator - https://amzn.to/2HYtb5y - Works well and easy to handle.
  • Mothers Wheel Brush - https://amzn.to/2K0Ky1Y - really like how easy this is to handle and how soft the bristles are. Highly recommended.
  • Optimum Opti-Bond Tire Gel - https://amzn.to/2KJsxGP - This is a good low-gloss gel, though I need to try additional coats to see if I can get those tire shinier.
  • ABN Car Wheel Rim Cleaning 3-Piece Kit - https://amzn.to/2KFgSIR - Yes the big woolie has good reach and allows you to clean the inside of your rims effectively, but the handle is annoyingly difficult to hold after it becomes saturated / heavy to hold.


    TOWELS

  • Chemical Guys Professional Grade Premium Microfiber Towels, Gold - https://amzn.to/2HY8Q0a - these things are outsidanding and are a great value. Definitely watch Larry's video on microfiber care, which fixed all of my annoyances with microfibers accruing fuzz in the dryer.
  • THE RAG COMPANY EAGLE EDGELESS 500 Korean 70/30 Super Plush 500gsm Microfiber Detailing Towels - https://amzn.to/2HYVmky - very high plush and high quality, though I end up using the Chemical Guys towels more often and save these for random spot details. Probably not ideal.
  • THE RAG COMPANY Premium Window, Glass, Mirror & Chrome Korean 70/30 Microfiber - https://amzn.to/2rrveVg - work great for cleaning windows and mirrors.
  • Nylon Laundry Bag - https://amzn.to/2rtYOcP - I have one bag for clean and one for dirty. Has done a great job of keeping dust off the rags during storage.
u/nalydnalydnalyd · 4 pointsr/jetta

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM

it’s essentially a micro abrasive compound, which is used to buff out scratches, hazing and whatnot. it needs to be used after wet sanding to get rid of the hazing left behind from the 3000 grit. then you polish after the compound to get an extremely clean, haze-free result. it’s best to use a buffer to apply them but can also be done by simply rubbing with a microfiber pad.

basically you can get all of these products in a simple 3m headlight restoration kit instead of buying a bigger amounts of each separately. if you only need to hit the two spots left from removing your mudguards, i’d suggest just getting a kit instead:

https://www.amazon.com/3M-39008-Headlight-Restoration-System/dp/B001AIZ5HY

u/alwaysready · 4 pointsr/AutoDetailing

i think those scratches will come out. they dont seem so bad. you can confirm this by running your nail around them and seeing if it catches your fingernail. youll be better off if they dont really catch.

i think i would go with this car kit from meguiars

as well as ultimate compound

and some polish

i would then wash the car, clay the car, scratchx the scratches, plastx the headlights, compound the car, polish the car, then wax the car.

that will definitely do you. if you have more money, check out a bunch of the sidebar lists for more stuff. maximus's pretty much has it all.

edit: and maybe a couple of these mf applicators. i think they are easier to use and spread the product and work it in really well.

u/Aulm · 4 pointsr/fountainpens

A plastic polish called Novus (Novis?) #2 and/or #3 is supposed to work well on acrylic pens. It's what Franklin Christoph recommends on their pens fwiw.

Edit: Here it is

u/bogglingsnog · 4 pointsr/teslamotors

Don't recommend using RainX on your front windshield - it makes the wipers squeak something fierce.

Use a wash mitt to reduce chance of scratching.

u/Goliath15 · 4 pointsr/FocusST

Get some black trim restorer. Had this same issue and bought some of this and cleaned it right up.

u/Weiner_Takes_All · 4 pointsr/ft86

What spray cleaner do you guys use to clean the alcantara?

I was wondering if this $20 Sonax cleaner was worth it: https://www.amazon.com/Sonax-206141-Upholstery-Alcantara-Cleaner/dp/B00BBWJ16U/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494953995&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=alcnatara+cleaner

or can I get away with a $3 bottle of Tuff Stuff? https://www.amazon.com/Tuff-Stuff-Purpose-Cleaner-Cleaning/dp/B0009PCPNQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1494953867&sr=8-4&keywords=fabric+cleaner

edit: or can I even get away with just vacuuming and using a damp microfiber cloth?

u/seeker1938 · 4 pointsr/AutoDetailing

On Amazon, there are two :

https://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Aerospace-Protectant-Furniture/dp/B000XBCURW/ref=sr_1_5? This one w/o UV Protection

​

And one with:

https://www.amazon.com/303-30382-Protectant-plastic-finished/dp/B0185PU38A/ref=sr_1_6?

​

Which one do you all prefer???

u/TsundereBolt · 3 pointsr/GolfGTI

I've had good success with this stuff when I've gotten paint scuffs. Should be able to get most of it off with that, and depending on how badly you rubbed against it, some touch up paint might be needed.

u/ListenHereYouLittleS · 3 pointsr/woodworking

If you have enough coat built up, sand with 400, 800, and maybe 1500. Then use a buffing compound with some water and a pad on a ROS sander. If that doesn't add a glossy finish...Idk what will.

u/bananas2000 · 3 pointsr/cars

Wow. I should get into paint correction. <$250 for all the tools and polish and waxes. As a car guy, I don't mind waxing my car every 6 months (or 4 months if you're in the frigid north or are anal). I also feel it's foolish to drop $2k-4k on these nano-quartz-bullshit schemes that a lot of car guys swear by nowadays. If you want to drop $4k on paint protection, go for it, but I can get a full window-out repaint for the same price!

Here's what I learned:

Buy the equipment:

https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7424XP-6-Inch-Variable-Speed-Polisher/dp/B002654I46

https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Action-Hook-Flexible-Backing-Plate/dp/B0008G1RDK

https://www.costco.com/Kirkland-Signature-Microfiber-Towel-Case%2C-324-count.product.100341124.html

https://www.amazon.com/Collinite-Liquid-Insulator-Wax-845/dp/B000JK2D06

http://www.autogeek.net/lake-country-beveled-pad-kit.html (MIN: 2 orange, 2 white, 1 black, 1 blue -- I prefer doubling this order; Autogeek almost always has 10-25% off coupons on their mailing list)

You will also need an extension wire with the appropriate gauge (too thin/cheap cables might cause you to burn your Porter Cable motor!)


Buy the compounds (start with UC; if swirls aren't getting cut, move up to 50%/50% UC and 105 on the pads; finish with 205 regardless):

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM (medium aggressive)

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B003LMGDHI (most aggressive)

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B001O7PNXC

Wash your car with this, and the two-bucket method:

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G7164-Class-Shampoo-Conditioner/dp/B0009IQXFO

https://www.amazon.com/Zwipes-Chenille-Microfiber-Premium-Scratch-Free/dp/B002J7KCOG

Claybar the car:

https://www.amazon.com/YGDZ-Quality-Detailing-Claybar-Shipping/dp/B01MF4BVVS

It took me about 5-6 relaxed hours on a Sunday with a few beers for the full correction. Now I simply top up the wax every few months (and that only takes 30 min).

The thing is, once you do the full correction and get rid of all your swirls and scuffs and whatever clearcoat damage (wash + claybar + M105/UC + M205 + wax), then you don't have to do the FULL correction ever again.

Ever again meaning, if you wash the car properly thereafter with the two-bucket method. You'll simply need to top up the wax once it stops beading -- the wax will protect the clearcoat from damage and swirls.

My wax lasted 6+ months being daily driven in the California sun with three coats of Collinite 845 -- I assume if yours will see more snow and ice and rain, perhaps it'll only last 3-4 months. But since a bottle costs <$20 and you'll get at least 36+ layers out of it, I always recommend this versus the "nano coatings" that people are shelling out $2-4k for.

Here's the Collinite fanboy thread:

https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/40243-collinite-845-definitive-how-guide-legendary-wax.html

Any other questions, feel free to ask. Good luck!

u/nakedarthur · 3 pointsr/crtgaming

An air compressor works great for cleaning the dust out. Check out the little electric blowers if you don't have a full-on compressor. I've been using one for over 5 years now and it works great.

For cleaning the exterior, Novus makes great plastic cleaning products.

u/SilentChiller · 3 pointsr/volt

My local shop quoted me $300 to fix the paint and $250 to replace the plastic piece. I told them it was a lease and surprisingly they told me I should wait until I am about to turn the car in since more damage will happen. I also have $5K of lease damage insurance so even if I get dinged (ha!) for this, it will be covered by that insurance.

Being a perfectionist, I still wanted to clean things up so I turned to Amazon and bought about $40 worth of supplies:

  • ACDelco WA636R Touchup Paint
  • 1.5mm Touchup Brushes
  • Novus 2oz Plastic Polish Kit
  • Novus Polish Mate
  • Meguiars ScratchX 2.0

    I was able to fix the damage to the plastic piece entirely, it looks as good as new. I used an ample amount of Novus 2 and 3. I wasn't expecting Novus to be able to tackle such a big scratch and I was just hoping to get rid of some minor scuffs but I was pleasantly surprised, there is a slight dip in the plastic that is visible if you are about 3 inches away and looking from an extreme angle but I don't even feel a bump anymore.

    I also did a few more rounds of Scratch X on the paint scratch and got rid of about 50% of it, I painted the deep chip but I didn't want to risk making it worse so it's still visible from about a foot away. I'm going to practice on another car with some filler and see if I can master the art of filling in deep chips and painting them but for now the metal under the chip is safe from rust.
u/jkxs · 3 pointsr/SubaruForester

I apologize in advance for this long post. None of these are "must gets", but they are what I got for my 2016 Premium forester. I'm posting this for my own future reference as well as to help some people who are wondering what accessories might be good for their new forester. I highly recommend ordering from Jackie from Annapolis Subaru @ 443-837-1422 as she can get you some good prices on the subaru accessories as well as WeatherTech products! I saved on WeatherTech shipping costs (~$20) by ordering through Jackie and the warranty is the same as if I had bought them through their website.

Please note that some of these accessory links are for my specific car year, model and configuration. I have a 2016 Premium forester without eyesight (affects the Covercraft/heatshield sunshade - they also have eyesight compatible sunshades!).

Also, I personally didn't get my windows tinted, but I think that is something that you should seriously consider doing :)

Speaker kit

Tweeter kit


WeatherTech DigitalFit floorliner (1st & 2nd row)



WeatherTech cargo/trunk liner (without bumper protector)


Weather Tech TechCare floorliner and floormat Cleaner/Protector Kit

Gorilla mud flaps

Covercraft's UVS100 sunscreen - use promo code FREESHIP

Exterior Auto Dimming Mirror w/ Approach Lighting

Luggage Compartment Cover (manual rear gate)

Rear bumper cover

Auto-Dimming Mirror with Compass and HomeLink

Rear Seat Back Protector

Two Home Depot 5 gallon homer bucket

Heatshield sunshade (driver/passenger, second row, rear windshield, sunroof) - note that their website only shows only one side window (driver/passenger), you need to call in to ask them to add the second row side window ones - on my invoice it says part #1425S-A and #1425S-B

Antigravity Batteries AG-XP-10 Multi-Function Power Supply and Jump Starter (check eBay to see if priced cheaper)

Viair 77P Portable Compressor Kit (check eBay to see if priced cheaper)

Amazon stuff:

EZ Pass Holder for VA Flex

Aux cable

Stickershield (parking stickers, etc)

Dropstop seat gap filler (driver/passenger side)

Door panel removal kit (for speaker kit install)

Two grit guards

Microfiber Drying towel

Microfiber cloths (3 pack)

Car wash shampoo

Wheel brush

Resqme (window breaker/seatbelt cutter)

Wheel cleaner

Microfiber wash mitt

Reindeer costume for Christmas

Headrest coat hanger

Road reflective triangles

Duct tape

Odor eliminator

Tire air pressure gauge

OBDII Scanner (Bluetooth)

First aid kit

u/Fents_Post · 3 pointsr/nova

Waxing is simple. There are a ton of products these days that won't require much work to keep your car protected. The easiest are the spray waxes. Use after you wash once a month(or more) and you'll be nice an protected. If you need some paint correction (i.e. polishing) and you aren't comfortable with it, you will have to spend a couple hundred if you want someone to do a good job and not actually damage the paint. Be careful of the "FUll Detail" for under $100 guys. If correction is what you need, I can suggest Odds and Ends Detailing in Sterling. If that is too far out from where you are, you might want to give them a call and ask if they can recommend someone closer. The owner is a very nice guy.

​

Some general tips on keeping your car looking good.

  1. Start with clean paint. Wash. At minimum claybar (easy to do, research online) then apply a wax or sealant. Sealants also come in spray form and will provide additional protection. It can be topped with wax after a few days if you want even more protection and beading. Note: Claybar is only needed once a year if you keep your car clean and protected.
  2. When washing, use a two bucket method. Look it up.
  3. Get a good washing mitt. They aren't expensive. I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-MIC_493-Microfiber-Scratch-Free/dp/B003TTL0TE/ref=sr_1_5?crid=F45IEAEIK2RF&keywords=chenille+wash+mitt&qid=1559133753&s=gateway&sprefix=chenille+wash%2Caps%2C197&sr=8-5
  4. Get some good drying towels. I suggest waffle weave drying towels. Get 2-3 that are 24x36 or similar.
  5. Get some additional microfiber towels for spot cleaning.
  6. Be careful washing in the full sun. Rinse will dry fast and leave watermarks.
  7. Don't use automatic car washes. They leave micro swirls. In the winter just use one of those touch less washes when salt gets on your car.
  8. Do not wash your drying towel / microfiber towels with the rest of your laundry. Do them separate. Use a mild detergent with no fabric softener like Woolite. Dry on low or air dry.
u/FightOrFlight · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Can I upvote you three times?

I bought most of those brushes and have not looked back. The grey ultra soft nylon brush is amazing! I can do a whole seat in 3 minutes. I also bought this drill brush. It's a little harsh but if you have stains it'll blitz it out in 2 seconds.

u/TyrantLeo · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing

You might need one of these and a power drill instead.

u/187ForNoReason · 3 pointsr/Detailing

this drill brush And diluted resolve carpet cleaner.

u/CG_Ops · 3 pointsr/DIY

By soaking, I meant spraying it on and letting it set for a few minutes.


Since you're limited on space, if you have a drill you could get an attachment like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TU662Y/ref=oh_details_o00_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I bought that one for the shower tile but it works great on tough fabric too. Magic erasers are awesome, but with the speed this thing can scrub fabric, it can get caked on stains that ME often can't.

u/BurntPaper · 3 pointsr/JeepRenegade

Thanks! I started off with Mother's California Gold clay bar and waxed with Meguiers Ultimate Liquid Wax.

Honestly I'm not sure when the scratches came out. I didn't notice them after I used the clay bar, but I didn't think to actually look for them. Definitely not visible after the wax, though!

u/a_leyva · 3 pointsr/HondaAccord

Been using Meguire's Car Wash
Meguiar's G7101FFP Gold Class Car Wash - 1 gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071HR14SJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0ioMDbSFX1D4K

and Liquid Wax
MEGUIAR'S G18216 Ultimate Liquid Wax, 16 Fluid Ounces, 1 Pack
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004HCM9H4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VkoMDb4XC1C4Y

Been happy with the results Consistent waxing really makes washing alot easier

u/wWratWw · 3 pointsr/cars

Something like this might help

u/ayjez · 3 pointsr/Surface

Mine is 1 year old and looking like this:

lower-right corner

lower-left corner

upper-right corner

EDIT: I tried all sort of things, including Sonax but nothing changed.

u/caalas · 3 pointsr/Surface

My team has a few hundred Surface Laptops that they support. I can attest that the link below works great. Spray it on, brush it in a bit (soft tooth brush, dry rough fingers that we are too manly to put lotion on, etc.), wait 20 minutes, wipe it off.

https://smile.amazon.com/Sonax-206141-Upholstery-Alcantara-Cleaner/dp/B00BBWJ16U?sa-no-redirect=1

u/Vorsaw · 3 pointsr/Porsche

Sonax (206141) Upholstery and Alcantara Cleaner - 8.45 fl. oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BBWJ16U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2AMgyb0KENNDZ

This is the product I use whenever I'm detailing a clients car with Alcantara, suede or another kind of fabric, it works wonders and won't damage the fabric.

u/dragonoid44 · 3 pointsr/NewedgeMustang

My top was kinda doing the same, the gray was dust.

So I looked for advice and decided to get Roll-Off and then 303 Protectorant.

I washed the top with car soap and rinsed, then I scrubbed it with a horsehair brush and the Roll-Off, and rinsed it and dried it. After that I got a detail rag and then sprayed a generous amount of the 303 Protecterant and wiped it all over. It looks really nice now and the dark color is back.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0185PU38A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FSDZTU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/insomniaczombiex · 3 pointsr/XVcrosstrek

You can use this stuff. The guys over at /r/autodetailing rave about it.

u/verdegrrl · 3 pointsr/cars

>This caused a around 1mm mark on my car. Would you guys think this is a scratch?

You may be able to buff it out if it's minor.

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10307-Scratch-X-2-0/dp/B0002UNON8

>I know some people really recommend using the parking brake on manual cars, but should I be using it on my car? My car is automatic and not manual, but if it is recommended and safer, I may just give it a try.

Yes, use the parking brake. When you park an automatic, there is a small dowel about the size of your pinky that snaps out of one part of the transmission into another. That is all that holds your car in place when you shut it off.

>Any other tips would be great, I am just completely excited to be driving, it is quite fun!

Check fluids and tire pressures weekly. Oil, coolant, brake fluid.

Always address any new sights, sounds, or smells immediately before they can snowball into big bills.

Look wwwaaaaaayyyy down the road whenever possible. You can often avoid troubles if you see them in advance. The same goes for using your mirrors.

Enjoy!

u/theDouggle · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Your first mistake was not keeping your car waxed in the first place! If you had done that, water would have been all you would've needed! SHAME! SHAME! SHA-

Okay, I'm done.

It'll polish out easily. A shop should take care of this for $15 with a cordless polisher in the parking lot in a matter of 3 minutes. But, some shops don't work like that because of capitalism and "time is money", in which case you could get that out with a small bottle of polish and an application sponge. I'd suggest this:
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10307-ScratchX-2-0-oz/dp/B0002UNON8/ref=sr_1_11?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1527550086&sr=1-11&keywords=meguiars+polish
and
https://www.amazon.com/SPTA-Finishing-Hand-Applicator-Polishing/dp/B01M0GRIGS/ref=sr_1_7?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1527549955&sr=1-7&keywords=hand+polishing+pad

u/919rider · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

This crap. Going to buy it for the same purpose on my bike... after everything else is done. So, never. But yeah..

u/emarkd · 3 pointsr/knives

Cleaning a knife is easy. You can pretty much use any sort of solvent you've got handy, but if its too strong it may take off your blade labels. Start with water. It's actually a pretty good solvent. You'd be surprised how well it works most of the time. Afterwards make sure you dry it good and wipe the whole thing down with a good machine oil.

Or pick up a specialized metal polish. I like Simichrome. It's a great cleaner/polisher/protectant all in one step, but there are several good products on the market. A tube of something like that and a drop of oil for the pivot is really all you should ever need.

u/daaa_interwebz · 3 pointsr/4Runner

Definitely check out /r/AutoDetailing. I use nextzett on my interior. Way better than Armorall, no greasy feel or shine and seems to keep the dust away. Wow, I sound like a shill...

u/Pixel_Life · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I really love this stuff but it can be expensive. I finally found a great deal on it, stocked up and got 6 cans.

Walmart $3.44

Home Depot $3.54

Target $3.84

Lowes $3.98

Amazon $5.32

Advanced Auto Parts $5.49

AutoGeek $5.99
AutoGeek $4.16 ea in bulk

DetailersDomain $5.99

DetailedImage $5.99

u/OiizziiO · 3 pointsr/LifeProTips

If you don't want to leave the house, or so you know what you're looking for. https://www.amazon.com/Invisible-Glass-Premium-Cleaner-91164/dp/B0007OWD2M

u/cantremembermypasswd · 3 pointsr/cars

The most you will probably hear here is don't use Armor All cleaners for the surfaces (do more harm than good and leave a bright sheen) and visit /r/autodetailing.

These are just items I have used personally and would recommend:
Best interior cleaner I have found is Meguiar's Interior Cleaner with some microfiber towels.

Haven't had to deal with anything for anti-fogging, but for windows I use Stoner's Invisible Glass. It's a little too good in my opinion, now I have to figure out how to fix 6 little nicks in my windshield I wouldn't have noticed otherwise...


u/vivreos · 3 pointsr/jetta

Try this:https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G13616-Interior-Detailer-Cleaner/dp/B000AMLWH8

Been using it on my leatherette seats and seems to be doing the trick.

u/JoshuaJSlone · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Quick dry electronic cleaner is what worked for me where compressed air didn't. Applied basically the same way, flipping up the sheath on the analog stick and applying a bit with the included straw.

u/Ski1215 · 3 pointsr/mazda3

Spray it with a small squirt of QD Electronics cleaner. It's safe and designed for electrical components and you can buy it just about anywhere.

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05101-QD-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000CCMLD0

u/D0esANyoneREadTHese · 3 pointsr/techsupportgore

As long as it doesn't have a screen on it, a can of this will work quite well, it's like keyboard air but better because it's also a solvent (but doesn't dissolve plastic like Brakleen). Don't use it near backlit screens though, it dissolves the glue holding them together and you'll never quite get it looking right again.

u/Unknownlight · 3 pointsr/Games

Dust gets trapped under the analog stick causing it to never properly reset to neutral when you let go. You can fix it with electronic cleaner (use a toothpick or something to lift up the rubber flap under the analog stick to expose the internals and spray).

u/herpafilter · 3 pointsr/engineering

This is great advice. The one step I'd add would be, if at all possible, to use a purpose made contact/PCB cleaning spray on the PCB before reassembly. This will safely and effectively remove any conductive deposits left from the water and drive out any remaining moisture. You may find after disassembly that the rubber membrane kept any crap from getting on the PCB, in which case you might be ok without, but you've gotten this far so....

It's not terribly expensive. Amazon is a good example. You can find the same kind of thing locally at a car parts place or maybe even a radioshack.

u/NeilOld · 3 pointsr/minnesota

You can get another one! I bought one of these years ago and I think the price has only gone up by .99.

u/Cakeybaby · 3 pointsr/rochestermn

We lived for two years in an apartment with outdoor parking. It wasn't terrible, but it wasn't great. Whenever it snowed we were at the mercy of the plowing company: if they plowed the lot we might get to leave, if they plowed our cars into their spots we were going to spend 30min-2 hrs digging out. In those two years it never got terribly freakishly cold, but I scraped a lot of ice.

Since we've moved into out house (this whole winter) I've only had to scrape ice once while we were traveling. Its a minor hassle but being able to see right when you want to go in the morning is amazing. I'm too short to get all of my windshield and it would frost back up almost immediately. Not an issue I have anymore. Also I never have snow in my car anymore. If we got ice and snow I would always have to chip one door open to start the car to loosen the rest and my interior would be covered in snow regardless of my best intentions. Not anymore.

Unlike the past two years it did get freakishly cold this year. Having our car in the garage meant it started every time. I drove my husband to work on those days so the car could stay inside during the day and some of his coworkers didn't make it in until hours after they should have been.

If you're going to leave your car outside I would suggest getting a really good ice scraper. I purchased this one a few years back and it has worked 100% better than any plastic versions. The ice comes off in once pass and leaves no streaks. Amazon has a few options for this style.

I know you're from Ohio, but Cleveland has been upgraded to USDA zone 6. We're Zone 4b. If you're not a gardener it probably doesn't mean much to you, but those numbers mean we get about 20F colder than Cleveland in the winter. Winter isn't fun here. There is a lot of wind, a lot of hills, and when it snows it goes for it. Best advice: Pick a place you like. If parking becomes an issue you know what to look for when you pick a new place.

u/usarmy973 · 3 pointsr/Wellthatsucks

Buy one of these it will never break and it works wonderfully!

u/sometimes-yeah-okay · 3 pointsr/AppleWatch

this works wonders for the SS version but if it's aluminum you're out of luck http://www.amazon.com/Cape-Metal-Polishing-Cloths-0-53oz/dp/B0017H3PIO

u/Augie956 · 3 pointsr/RepTime

Hey guys, so idiot me managed to bang my watch into a table a cause it to dinged up. Luckily I found this cloth and after an hour of buffing it, the dent is almost completely gone. Really surprised it worked as I was looking at changing the bezel insert.

Thought I’d share in case anyone else has dents or scratches they’d like to remove.

Cape Cod Polish Co Metal Polishing Cloths Foil Pouch 0.53oz, Stainless Steel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017H3PIO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_Uke1CbE1Q2PSC

u/samsterk911 · 3 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

IF I FITS I SITS

This one is always my favorite!!

My add-on and this

u/thisonewillsurelybef · 3 pointsr/ft86

Let's start by saying car covers are a pain in the ass for daily use, the car has to be perfectly clean to prevent it from scratching and it just doesn't work that way unless the car is washed every couple of days.

Instead I'd just wash 1 or 2 times a week, and get a gallon-size of Meguiar's spray wax and Last Touch, because you know you'll be in a constant battle against certain elements, might as well stock up (and you save like 50% just buying in bulk this way). In fact I recommend checking out their entire detailer line because you're going to go through a lot of soaps, waxes, etc. Their gallon of shampoo plus for $20 is a great start. And you can find deals like 3-packs of their supreme shine towels for $6 as an amazon add-on item if you're a prime customer.

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D11101-Shampoo-Plus-Gallon/dp/B000EZICII

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3002-Microfiber-Wash-Mitt/dp/B000RXKR6M/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1485457672&sr=1-1&keywords=meguiar%27s+microfiber+mitt

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D15601-Synthetic-X-Press-Spray/dp/B005JPJMI2

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D15501-Touch-Spray-Detailer/dp/B0006SH4NC/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1485453717&sr=1-1&keywords=last+touch

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D12001-Glass-Cleaner-Concentrate/dp/B0006SH4KU/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1485457691&sr=1-4&keywords=meguiar%27s+glass+cleaner

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Supreme-Shine-Microfiber-Cloths/dp/B0009IQZH0/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1485455013&sr=1-2&keywords=supreme+shine

I just buy all their gallon sized stuff and then reuse my old bottles of spray wax, detailers spray, glass cleaner, wheel bottles, etc. Saves me lots of money, like the difference between $100 now or a couple hundred by next year. For instance their gallon size of glass cleaner is probably enough to set you straight on that for a few years, dilutes 10-1 with distilled water. That's 10 gallons of glass cleaner, put that in an old windex bottle and never run out!

Also the Chemical Guy's bucket kit https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-ACC_101-Detailing-Bucket/dp/B001U522GO was a pretty amazing deal and necessary if you're going to use coin-wash bays. However the mitt included is a bit rough, so instead I use a meguiar's microfiber mitt as its the softest I've found so far. The paint on this car is very soft so it's important to use the softest products possible on the paint.

An Invisible Glass Reach and Clean tool has worked out great for cleaning the interior glass and keeping it from fogging up. Great item to have. https://www.amazon.com/Invisible-Glass-Reach-Clean-95161/dp/B0017K69MA

And a bird poop tip, keep a plastic container with microfibers, a bottle of water, and a bottle of last touch / spray wax mix in the trunk or behind passenger seat. If a bird hits the car, just soak microfiber with water, apply for 30 seconds, and then clean with the detailer spray / spray wax.

To prevent corrosion, you're going to want to clean deep into the wheel wells and stuff with dedicated brushes and mitts, and then use an anti corrosion product (I ordered some ACF-50 spray recently, getting it in the mail today probably) https://www.amazon.com/Lear-Chemical-ACF50-Anti-Corrosion-Lubricant/dp/B000P1C8UO . You're going to want to check crevices for salt buildup, it can happen on some of the window trim parts, so it might be necessary to remove them and clean them out if it starts to rust underneath. You might want to use dabs of silicone stuff to prevent water and salt from corroding these spots. There are a few posts about corrosion of FT86club forums so read up on them. Also your cabin air filter, leaves and bugs like to get in your cabin air filter and make things nasty. You can easily check / service this yourself, its behind the glove box.


For maintenance, I would NOT go past 5000 miles on an oil change, and be choosy where you take your oil changes. The car likes running on fresh oil period. Buy a 5 pack of oem oil filters and oem crush washers to keep yourself straight for awhile, saves money and time. Or also a fumoto oil valve can save even more effort, as a DIY'er it made my oil changes the easiest thing to do. Check your tire pressure constantly, because a decrease in pressure will make the car drive like crap and will wear your tires out quickly.

Your 60k mile maintenance or therabouts is an important interval. Needs stuff done like spark plug changes, and probably checking the clutch throwout bearing to see if it has become worn. These are expensive and labor intensive, expect a $1000 bill.

u/motionOne · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing

The cleaning tool for anyone interested: https://www.amazon.com/Invisible-Glass-Reach-Clean-95161/dp/B0017K69MA

Great video but would have loved to see your interior windshield cleaning technique!

u/Voltigeur · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Rims. At least on my car. My rims are painted and no matter what I do or how careful I am I can't seem to get them clean without scratching them. 😔 Can't wait until I can buy a new pressure washer to help me out with that; I have to make do with a weak garden hose at the moment.

​

I hate cleaning windows, too, but I've bought a tool and specialized cloths to help me out a bit so it's not as frustrating anymore.

u/radroachbrz · 3 pointsr/cars

Tennessee, we just got down to 31 today and it felt pretty chilly out.

I also will be checking tire pressure weekly. Every time I go over a speed bump I hear a little bit of air go hiss out of the low profile tires. Having one of those small 12v compressors is handy.

We usually get freezing rain. I might be buying some rainx deicer spray and also top off the wiper fluid. Also probably order some new windshield wipers. Also a tool like this can be really useful if your inside windshield gets all foggy and streaky in the winter.

And otherwise just taking it easy driving the car when warming up for the first 30 minutes everyday. I don't often drive everyday but when it gets cold I usually feel the need to take the car for a 30 min cruise in the morning to keep the battery conditioned.


When it gets below 40
I have to keep in mind my tires and suspension aren't very warm and springy so I have to keep that in mind.

u/Valfyre · 3 pointsr/Vaping

Get some of the RainX Fog prevention stuff, about $3 a bottle. Then keep a microfiber wand in your car, like this one - https://smile.amazon.com/Invisible-Glass-Reach-Clean-95161/dp/B0017K69MA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1480436923&sr=8-2&keywords=windshield+cleaner

u/dkman22 · 3 pointsr/gifs

They are awesome, also leaves a much more streak free shine than a paper towel, so after using it your windshield looks extra clean. I love it. Here's an amazon link but you can find it for the same price at any of your local auto zone/O'reilys type places

https://www.amazon.com/Invisible-Glass-Reach-Clean-95161/dp/B0017K69MA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504073111&sr=8-1&keywords=windshield+cleaner

u/lollercaust75 · 3 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

I'm really hoping for a windshield washer wand so I can get all the vape residue off the inside of my windshield.

Link for those interested:
http://www.amazon.com/Stoner-95161-Invisible-Glass-Reach/dp/B0017K69MA/

u/Cannonball_Sax · 3 pointsr/femalefashionadvice

Leather is fairly resilient. Condition occasionally if the leather looks dry (something like this works fine) and maybe grab a horsehair brush to brush dirt/dust off the shoe. If you're out in salt/slush, wipe down the shoes with a slightly damp cloth when you get back. Try to let them dry out between wears.

u/MonsieurLeDude · 3 pointsr/goodyearwelt

From the site:

>men's lace-up boot featuring a polished burgundy leather exterior and thick brown waxed cotton laces for a classic feel.

I may be wrong, but "polished leather" is usually another term for corrected grain leather, and I have always used Venetian Shoe Cream (VSC) for this. I bought in bulk a few years ago and have come nowhere close to depleting the vat o'VSC.

Another good option might be Bick 4, which I also use quite a bit.

u/lando55 · 3 pointsr/FZ07

The reviews on this are all over the map, but I love it. Once you spray it on it sticks to the rim and eats away at the chain lube, mud, and other road grossness that accumulates on your wheels. Get a nice solid brush to help reach into the crevices and enjoy your showroom wheels.

u/ampsby · 2 pointsr/audiophile

I use this with a micro fiber cloth. Lots of small circles with firm pressure. Take the lid off and set it down on a towel so it doesnt move around.

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10307-ScratchX-2-0-oz/dp/B0002UNON8/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406911488&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=extreme+scratch+remover

u/Citecla · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Hey guys i'm new to this detailing scene..but I do hope to learn a lot from everyone! I have an 05' white civic and the exterior isn't terrible, but there's definitely parts where there's medium oxidation and swirl marks. Just overall the paint doesn't feel glossy and smooth, just weathered and feels like metal.

Please let me know if I got the steps correct...any inputs is greatly appreciated!

  1. First do a thorough wash, and dry completely.
  2. Clay bar the entire exterior (I'm going to use http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002U2V1Y/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER)
  3. Here's where I don't know what I should do...do I compound or is that not necessary? I'm thinking if I skip compounding, I will use Scratch X (http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10307-Scratch-X-2-0/dp/B0002UNON8)
  4. Then I will Polish with This: http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Ultimate-Polish-16-oz/dp/B004HCOE8Q
  5. What do you recommend I do next? Could I follow the Mother's 3-step Ultimate Wax starting with this product? http://www.amazon.com/MOTHERS-07100-California-Gold-Polish/dp/B0002U26QE

  • By the way, as you see I have attached the pictures...what do I do with the oxidation on the exterior windshield trim?
  • Next, this paint damage, I was thinking to get a touchup paint from the dealership, but how should I apply this?
  • Lastly, whats the most effective way to clean this part..the door jambs?

    Thanks so much for all your suggestions and inputs. I hope to learn a lot from all of you.

    PS. Extra question, I'm doing a roadtrip after the detail...(stupid i know) but what's a good product to get rid of the bug stains while I'm out on the road?

    THANKS!!
u/Renyu · 2 pointsr/3DS

In the automotive world, scratch removers can get rid of scratches such as these very well. My favorite is the Meguiar brand, and I have a feeling it might work for these cases as well

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10307-Scratch-X-2-0/dp/B0002UNON8/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

u/karfkar · 2 pointsr/Luthier

i used this on recommendation from some people over at tdpri. i absolutely love the way it feels, and i put it on all of my satin-necked guitars. it's actually nicer than regular poly, IMO. here are some pics i took just now. (not the greatest, apologies.)

u/blappy347 · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

I clean my bike after almost every single ride. Sounds like overkill, but I live in a rural area with a lot of bugs.

I'm a bucket and hose guy. I usually just use some generic car wash soap from walmart with a decent car wash brush/sponge thing. For stubborn bugs, I've found that those fluffy round things that girls use in the shower work pretty good and don't leave scratches. I bought a pack of quality microfiber cloths to dry it down.

I'm still experimenting with different brands and types of wax for the painted pieces, so if anyone has any suggestions I'd love to hear them.

Finally, I polish the chrome. I've tried a few different brands and they were okay, but then I found THE ONE. This stuff is great, and not just on chrome. It made stainless steel pieces shine like I've never seen before. If you have chrome, you need this polish, thank me later.

u/alephnul · 2 pointsr/AcousticGuitar

The first thing I would try is Simichrome polish along with a lot of elbow grease. That may well help fix some of the scratches too. If that works, follow it up with an application of Renaissance Wax.

I think that should clear up your finish.

u/Encinitas0667 · 2 pointsr/Harley

Gonna need some Simichrome, from the looks of things.

https://www.amazon.com/Simichrome-390050-Metal-Polish-Tube/dp/B0002YUQ4E

u/TatteredJack · 2 pointsr/Tools



Simichrome 390050 All Metal Polish Tube - 1.76 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YUQ4E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_CBVFwbKVP7ZTQ

u/motor_boating_SOB · 2 pointsr/howto

This and a brillo pad would probably do it, cover it with oil afterwards.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YUQ4E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_I7dKzbNHKJZZ1

u/agent_of_entropy · 2 pointsr/howto

Use an all purpose metal cleaning paste like Simichrome.

u/DriveSheSaid · 2 pointsr/BMW

Einszett Cockpit Premium. This stuff is awesome

http://www.amazon.com/einszett-Cockpit-Premium-16-9-fl/dp/B0002Z2MZ4

u/StrangeRover · 2 pointsr/kia

This stuff is the best interior cleaner you can buy.

u/efficientglove · 2 pointsr/GolfGTI

interior, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002Z2MZ4

Recommended to me and I like it. Smells nice (not over powering) is not glossy and can be used on treated leather (your steering wheel).

u/R3411yFFS · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I have never used tuff stuff, but I have had good success with Meguairs APC

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D10101-Detailer-Purpose-Cleaner/dp/B0006SH4GE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469057081&sr=8-1&keywords=d101

Another decent one is 303 multi surface cleaner/303 spot cleaner.

http://www.detailedimage.com/303-M2/Cleaner-Spot-Remover-P15/32-oz-S1/

The process is pretty much the same regardless of which cleaner, You spray it on, agitate it, then blot with a microfiber towel.

If that doesn't work you could try using a steam cleaner

u/TheFridge22 · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Highly recommend a gallon of Megs APC. It's cheap and it will last forever. It's great for tires/wheels, exhaust tips, engine bay, interior, etc.

Also, remember to cancel the Prime trial before it ends if you don't want to keep it. They automatically charge you at the end of the trial.

u/Warmachine- · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Nice ride. I myself have a 2015 Mazda 3 GT. I use Lexol for cleaning and conditiong (protecting) leather. Just use some TRC microfiber towels to clean the leather and the rest of the interior. For the dash, I just use Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer and D101 APC. It doesn't leave a shiny residue on the dash. I use those two for almost everything on the interior.

u/OlympiaWest · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Meguiar's APC seems to be everyone's favorite around here.

u/Trokeasaur · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Meguiar's D101 is a really cost effective and solid product that can be diluted to interior and exterior concentrations.

Chemical Guys AllClean+ is another good option that can be diluted to interior and exterior concentrations, it also has a light almost fruity smell that I like. Some folks in /r/autodetailing have cooled a bit on Chemical Guys due to their ridiculous marketing and occasionally questionable customer service, but AllClean+ is a pretty solid product.


Ultima Interior Shampoo Gel is a nice, not dilutable product that smells amazing and does a great job on a lot of surfaces. It is less cost effective than the other 2 options but if you arent doing cars in bulk, its a good product.

u/GetABucket · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

The answer to your first question of what makes vehicles "have that glorious-mirror almost appearance" is paint correction. There is no miracle product that will instantly turn shitty paint into 100% flawlessness in 1 application. It will take good claying, compounding, and polishing to get the results you are looking for. I'm sure that the clay, HF DA, M105 and M205, and the various pads you have will be able to get the results you are looking for. The only problem is time. It is going to take more time to get the results because the HF DA is not powerful, when compared to something like the Rupes or the Flex.

Carnauba waxes. The consensus is that they add depth and shine, but don't last long. Sealants last longer, but with less shine and depth. Both sealants and carnauba waxes will make shitty paint look less shitty, with carnauba slightly edging out sealants. But like previously stated, its all about the prep work. Sealant on flawless paint will still look better than carnauba wax over sealant on shitty paint.

Glazes. The sole purpose of glaze is to fill in scratches. No amount or type of glaze will replace correcting paint. It is unnecessary to put glaze immediately after a vehicle just had paint correction as there are no scratches for the glaze to fill in. However, sometimes it makes sense to glaze and not correct the paint. Generally, the two situations where glaze is better than correcting paint are when you don't have enough time to correct the vehicle, or the customer does not have the funds to correct the vehicle. Correcting paint takes hours and hours, while glaze (depending on vehicle size) may take up to an hour to apply and remove. Obviously, paint correction costs more than an application of glaze.

Spray on wax compared to Collinite #845 is like comparing pee wee football to the NFL. Even a shitty application of Collinite that is 4 months old will still be better than spray on wax. That said, I think it is still good to use spray wax after washing the vehicle.

One thing I didn't see you mention is wheels, tires, and trim. You also want to spend great care on these three areas because they create contrast with the paint, thus making the paint look even better. Essentially, you want all aspects of the wheel clean (face, spokes, barrel). You want the tire to be scrubbed with cleaner and then dressed with a water based dressing. You then want to clean the trim with all purpose cleaner and use either dressing or a trim restorer to give it the original look. Good wheel cleaner: Sonax Good APC for tires and trim:Meguair's D101 Good tire dressing: Adam's Super VRT

Anything I have said here is open for constructive discussion.

TL;DR Correcting paint is above everything. Glazes mostly unnecessary. Both sealants and carnauba waxes have their purposes. Look into cleaning and dressing wheels, tires, and trim.

u/redditmakesyoudumb · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I'm fairly new, myself. I've driven clunkers most of my life. Spent about five years downtown where I didn't have a car. Now I'm back in suburbia, so I've got a brand new GTI, and it's the first one I've ever cared to take good care of. Here's what I started with:

u/Orange_C · 2 pointsr/Canadian_ecigarette

He's half-right. Get some Stoner's Invisible Glass, either the spray can or the bottle.

It's the only thing I've used that removes it easily besides soap/water, but is 10x easier. Windex streaks it, no-name stuff did the same but worse, this actually takes it off cleanly and quickly.

It does leave a hell of a haze on the windshield and streaks on the side windows eventually as it attracts more dust, and it's always surprising to clean off.

u/kDubya · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Get a can of this and a package of microfiber rags. Clean your windshield really well once or twice a year and this problem all but goes away.

u/kamiheku · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette
u/whoizaghost · 2 pointsr/CX5

okay so like the comment below 303 is simple and easy. I don"t use it much as its not readily available here in Toronto.

Things i do use:

For the dash board and any plastic inside the car i use:

https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05324-Protectant-24-oz/dp/B0007RDVGG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487704916&sr=8-1&keywords=mothers+interior

OR

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G13616-Interior-Detailer-Cleaner/dp/B000AMLWH8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487705281&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars%2Binterior%2Bcleaner&th=1

For the carpets i do 2 thing when i am in a hurry ill use:

https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-50572-Rubber-Cleaner/dp/B00PKE6NNY/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1487704985&sr=8-12&keywords=turtle+wax+interior+cleaner

Just spray some on the carpet and after a quick vacuum then do a good vacuum job this can take like 30 mins once you get the hang of it.

when i have time i use:

https://www.amazon.com/BISSELL-1400B-Multi-Purpose-Portable-Cleaner/dp/B0016HF5GK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487705069&sr=8-2&keywords=bissell+little+green

The second method is simple just follow the instructions it came with and this item usually goes on sale there are better ones that keep the water heated.

They also both give the car a nice smell after cleaning i don't have leather seats so i can say much about it.

as for windows there 2 steps i do as well:

I use

https://www.amazon.com/Invisible-Glass-Premium-Cleaner-91164/dp/B0007OWD2M/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487705440&sr=8-2&keywords=invisible+glass

Then polish the exterior and where is no tint with

https://www.amazon.com/3M-800002242-RAIN-X-WINDSHIELD-TREATMENT-3-5/dp/B000WNED08/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1487705503&sr=8-13&keywords=rain+x+glass+cleaner

The second step is a bit tedious so if you are not comfortable stick with step 1.

The thing that also really good to have is good clothes for cleaning the more the better Micro fibre cloth's are the best.

https://www.amazon.com/RAG-COMPANY-Professional-Microfiber-POLISHING/dp/B0166U4PVC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487705636&sr=8-1&keywords=micro+fiber+rag+company

and for glass:

https://www.amazon.com/RAG-COMPANY-Microfiber-Professional-STREAK-FREE/dp/B00WC5KQGE/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1487705755&sr=8-5&keywords=rag+company+glass

After wiping the class with step one and then its dry i usually just follow up with a dry microfiber cloth to pick up any little dirt i left behind.

If i left anything behind let me know ill make a full post once summer comes around with maybe a video of sorts but there is alot of information also to r/autodetailing wiki post and sorry for the format if its not up to standards this is my first long post.

u/Kaitlyndawn · 2 pointsr/SkincareAddiction

Me too!!!! It's so annoying. It doesn't take it all out, but I have good luck with this product.

u/fwizzel · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

For wheels you can literally just use soap and a seperate rag that will never touch the paint, or wheel woolies followed by a rag.

You said there wasn't anything on there for Wheels or Interior, but here's the recommended stuff from the wiki:

Hot Rims Wheel & Tire Cleaner

Quik Interior Detailer

Not what I use personally, but just to prove the point a lot of information can be found from the wiki.

If you plan on using tire shine, use something that doesn't contain silicon and i would recommend a gel dressing over spray on shines.

u/LucidSoap · 2 pointsr/ft86

Meguiars interior wipes or the spray is what I normally use on my truck, my car, and my girlfriends car. Work great, good smell when spraying^^^^^DoesntOverwhelm, I usually spray the rag. Unless it’s bad enough to need a soak.


Edit: The wipes work fantastically on the dash

u/maelstr0m8 · 2 pointsr/CX5

I am a clean person but the interior of my '17 CX-5 gets filled with dust and fingerprints every day. Not good for an OCD person :P
I kept a microfiber cloth in the car to wipe stuff off but I think it put swirls/scratches in the piano gloss black plastic trim so I stopped using it.

I got some Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer though. Says it should it be safe to use on all the surfaces, but what do you guys think?

u/Smoofington · 2 pointsr/e46

I use Meguiars Quik Interior Detailer and it does an amazing job. Plus you can buy it at Walmart, at least around me.

Edit: I always follow up with Meguiars Natural Shine on the plastic. I find it helps it not look so shitty. I hate that plastidip finish they used for the plastic.

u/derpotologist · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

I typed up a reply but it seems to have disappeared. Sorry if this is a repost.

It could be anything from trash in the button to the button falling off of the circuit board or a shorted trace. Without seeing the innards, it's really hard to say.

HOWEVER, I've fixed an amazing amount of gear simply by spraying it with contact cleaner.

Take the battery out, get as close as you can to the board, if that's not possible, just spray around the edges of the button from the outside, some cleaner should get in there.

As you're spraying liberally, click the button a ton of times. Something like 50 presses. Give it a minute or two to let the cleaner evaporate (shouldn't take long) and then power it back up and give it a shot.

There's a good chance this will do the trick.

Let me know if it works :)

u/twenty_minutes_late · 2 pointsr/Guitar

Get some electric cleaner like: https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05101-QD-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000CCMLD0

Test it in an inconspicuous are first then douse the hell out of your switch.

Could also be a bad solder joint. Not too hard to fix if you take your time and work carefully.

u/washboard · 2 pointsr/GalaxyS3

Sure thing. This is the stuff I used. You can probably pick up something similar at Radio Shack, Best Buy or better yet a local electronics store.

u/ss2man44 · 2 pointsr/Gameboy

There exist products that are specifically designed to clean contacts. It's called contact cleaner and it's what I use to clean both cartridges and consoles. Just spray it in the former and insert it into the latter a few times. Dries quickly and leaves no residue.

u/dragnmastr85 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Yes. One drop of liquid shorting any traces could permanently damage electronic components. And yes, a motherboard is a very complicated piece of electronics. There is a lot of power regulation on the boards. A single blown cap will render a mobo dysfunctional. Buy this and follow the instructions. You can also buy denatured alcohol to clean circuitry.

u/Gottlos · 2 pointsr/BuyItForLife

I found it is on Amazon for about 6 bucks and it eligible for prime. F101 Fantastic Ice Scraper

Edit: Accidentally a word.

u/throwaway_for_keeps · 2 pointsr/chicago

Remember last time we had snow, and then it kind of froze a little, and when I went to brush off my car, the bottom layer was slippery water snow and the top layer was solid ice, so it all came off at once?

That was awesome.

Also, if we're sharing winter car tips: I got a brass ice scraper that makes scraping ice much easier. It's a little small so I have to lean a little further to get to the middle, but I don't have to fight with a plastic scraper anymore. The brass is softer than the windshield, so it doesn't scratch, either.

u/fuckyoubarry · 2 pointsr/cars

You need two ice scrapers. One for snow, one for ice.

http://www.amazon.com/Mallory-532-Snow-Brush-Colors/dp/B000BPLNXC/ref=pd_sim_auto_1

http://www.amazon.com/CJ-Industries-F101-Fantastic-Scraper/dp/B000FW4LT4

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P2uUDkMYtrQ

Don't drive your winter tires when it's warm, they'll wear out quick.

There is an argument that letting a car warm up idling is worse than driving it gently the first few minutes cause idling doesn't let the oil splash around enough, who the fuck knows though. It's not like anyone actually tests that sort of thing, it's all car guys talking out they ass. Engine block heaters are always a good idea though, I've never heard an argument that they're not.

If your radiator fluid is mixed 50/50 it should be ideal for cold weather, something about chemistry. The water crystals and the antifreeze crystals don't lock together right to freeze if it's 50/50. Follow your cars maintenance schedule.

u/guildymaster · 2 pointsr/AppleWatch

Try these, just wear nitrile gloves while doing it. Once you’ve polished them to your liking, simply put the cloth back in the pouch & wipe the watch with a microfiber cloth.

u/mithikx · 2 pointsr/hwatch

Cape Cod Metal Polishing Cloths, I've had luck with them for minor scratches, any deep scratches would probably need to be taken to a professional. Also the cloths only work on the glossy portions of the watch, the brushed/satin portions such as the sides of the watch cannot be polished off with the cloth otherwise you'll rub off the finish, again a professional should be able to polish and resurface such areas.

Not sure if professionals work on smartwatches though as I've never tried asking, and it might cost more than it's worth considering the diminishing value of old smartwatches. ($100 - $200 for a professional's service on the upper end, and around $50 for minor jobs)

u/deathbeforeupvote · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Cape Cod cleaning cloths? It's pretty easy and quick to get a decent shine on brass mods.

u/BaggedTaco · 2 pointsr/Vaping
u/pulseOXE · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

As a vertically challenged person myself,

http://imgur.com/wwxTj2I

:)

Edit: Check out https://amzn.com/B0017K69MA and https://amzn.com/B00GTUPU5K
I'm not in love with the mitt that comes on that stick, but that's personal preference.

u/vocabularylessons · 2 pointsr/goodyearwelt

I use Bick 1 cleaner and Bick 4 conditioner, nothing fancy; lexol would also work perfectly fine. I prefer the Woodlore 'Epic' trees.

u/sarowen · 2 pointsr/femalefashionadvice

I did a bit of research of several months ago on leather cleaners, and I ended up buying [this one] (https://www.amazon.com/Bickmore-Bick-Leather-Conditioner-Ounces/dp/B001CS2Q4M/ref=sr_1_19?ie=UTF8&qid=1474914803&sr=8-19&keywords=leather+shoe+cleaner) -- Bickmore Bick 4.

Also, [here's an introductory leather care guide] (https://www.reddit.com/r/goodyearwelt/comments/1ubpyl/introductory_leather_care_guide/) from r/goodyearwelt.

u/fitengineer · 2 pointsr/goodyearwelt

Hi all! I'm about to get (my first) leather conditioner.

Would you recommend Lexol or Bick 4? I read they are very similar.

For reference I've got a pair of Clarks Bushackre 2 (beeswax) and Bondockers (Fudge) from Golden Fox

u/huxtiblejones · 2 pointsr/HistoricalCostuming

Thanks! I'll answer your questions with some depth.

  1. The maille is actually the most affordable flat ring I could find - it's the 44" haubergeon from GDFB. I got it through Kult of Athena here: http://kultofathena.com/product.asp?item=AB2462. The maille is gorgeous, it stuns people when they see it up close.

  • Couple of fair warnings - I am only 5'6" and 140 lbs. so I am on the small side. Maille is interesting in that it form-fits as the rings space themselves closely. So this could fit someone slightly larger than me, but if you're big I would advise giving yourself some space.

  • Next warning - the maille comes absolutely drenched in nasty oil. While it prevents rust, it will soil your clothes. I put the maille in a little bit of soapy water in a bucket, sloshed it around, and dried off just to remove some of that excess oil. But the shirt I wear is 100% dedicated to the maille as it's now quite nasty looking. Even the pants got really nasty which made me pretty sad. So buy a shirt or gambeson to use solely with your maille.

  • Final warning - this stuff is heavy. The shirt weighs 19 pounds. I mean it genuinely feels dense when you pick it up. That said, when it's on you it distributes the weight fairly well. Enough that I can jump around and stuff. But god, what a pain on the shoulders. You may consider padding your shoulders if you intend to wear it for hours on end. And be prepared to test your endurance. That weight will catch up with you after a few hours.

  1. The boots are a now discontinued Slavic design from Armstreet, custom to my measurements. I highly recommend their garb department! Everything I've ever got from them has been nothing short of amazing. I've used these boots heavily for 2 years and they look almost new. All I use is a bit of Bickmore leather lotion every 6 - 12 months and make sure to wipe the boots down when you get home from an event.

  2. The garb is all purchased. The shirt is a linen piece by GDFB from Kult of Athena. Great quality, but it looks like a modern Indian shirt if you don't cover it up.

    Pants are the Flax Norman trousers from Armstreet in wine red. Custom made to my size, beautiful through and through.

    The mantle is actually the first piece of costume I ever bought. It's a leather hood from the Colorado Renaissance Festival. I get a lot of compliments for it!

  3. I'll definitely see about shooting some photos. Right now all my stuff is dirty and needs washed though. It's nothing special - suit up in your soft kit from head to toe, boots included. Then put on the chainmail according to this video. Once the maille is on, belt it tight enough that it takes some of the weight off your shoulders. Then put on the baldric, attach the sword. Put the hood on and put the gauntlets on. Then the helmet. Et VOILA!

    There's no pointing of armor here, no padding, nothing special. I am looking to get some steel demi-greaves for my upper legs and knees. I got one too many wooden swords to the patella when fighting the kids. And I think a little more steel would really up the 'knight' look.

    Let me know if you have any other specific questions, happy to answer!
u/Santo_R · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

There was this one here, but it’s out of stock. Decent price too.

There’s also this. It’s an off brand (but I mean 90% of stuff comes from China anyway) and the brush bristles are soft.

This too. I don’t know how good microfiber is on wheels though. I personally have one similar to this that I bought in a kit from Costco, and use it for interior. But with a true brush style you can just rinse it out, vs microfiber that’s stains and needs to be washed.

There’s also this one. I’m pretty sure Canadian Tire has a smaller one to, but I can’t seem to see it on the site. Was in a store a few weeks ago and I think I saw one.


For something like wheels and tires, I don’t really see a point in spending crazy money on brushes. That may be an insult to people, but just as a hobby, I care that my rims are clean. For paint I use good towels and mitts (obviously to not scratch the paint) but for wheels, I’d rather save the money. I haven’t felt a good pro quality wheel brush vs a random one from Amazon or in-store, but even if I did, I don’t see how I’d justify the price difference (compared to something like a Eagle Edgeless 500 vs some random microfiber towel)

u/Maximus_Aurelius · 2 pointsr/cars

Wet them, spray with something like this, then apply some elbow grease with something like this. Rinse and dry.

u/marcthedrifter · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I'm honestly a little shocked a shop would give you the car back like that. When I was detailing for a living, there were very few cars I detailed that I couldn't get all the water spots off of, but even those never looked as bad as that when I was done. I hope you didn't have to pay much for that.


Having said that, [Meguiar's Ultimate Compound] (https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM/) is what I would use. It's probably the most newbie friendly cutting compound that I've used, but there is still the chance of burning through the paint with it. I would probably go to another detail shop and see what they could do.

u/chriskmee · 2 pointsr/subaru

The first thing I would try is this:

Meguiar's Ultimate Compound

Meguiar's X3070 Soft Foam 4" Applicator Pads

Meguiar's X2020 Supreme Shine Microfiber Towels

All 3 of those together is under $20 (need to spend $25 since one is an add on item). This stuff is amazing for scratches and paint in general. While it won't make your car showroom ready, it will make it look much better and is totally worth the $20.

Essentially what you do is first make sure the area is clean, then apply the compound to the pad and rub the compound on your car using circular motions. After you do that for a minute or two, use the towel to remove the compound form the car.

u/huzzy · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

WOW. That's a savings of $30. Thank-you.

This will complement the Meguiar's quick detailer I already have.

I've bought stuff off eBay before, but never Amazon. Am I buying from Amazon (store) or an individual?

EDIT: OMG. I've made a huge mistake Watch from 1:50 -2:00.

I've actually waxed my car atleast 3-4 times before the end of last year. Got my car painted (Pearl White) in summer of 2011.

EDIT 2: What is the difference: 7, 20 and 21

EDIT 3: Please note I have a Pearl White car.

EDIT 4: Haha sorry bud. I just realized how frustrating it must be trying to explain it someone inexperienced like me. I thank you for your patience.

u/bored_6m · 2 pointsr/golf
u/rcbb · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

It says it "Fills and hides scratches, swirl marks and spiderwebbing" meaning once the polish evaporates (from sun exposure eventually) the swirls will re-appear, it doesn't seem to be a permanent cure.

I.e. to REMOVE the swirls you will need to use an abrasive enough compound to remove enough clear coat to get to the base of the swirls. For super-light swirls Meguiars Ultimate Compound shouldwork, even by hand, but if they are significant swirls, use Meguiars swirl remover with a polisher and light pad.

u/RayRay1977JM · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Maybe try using a very light cutting Polish or Compound and buffing it out with a Dual action buffer.

u/Aleroniponi · 2 pointsr/everymanshouldknow

Yes, I can attest to Meguiers ultimate solution. It works wonders on your clearcoat after a rough winter. My paint is now baby-ass smooth.

Link:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001O7PNNM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1426609971&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+ultimate&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

u/phoenixdigita1 · 2 pointsr/oculus

It looks more like sweat than scratches from the pic. Have you tried a small dab on water on the microfibre cloth?

I had the same on mine after a mate who sweats like Niagara Falls used mine. I noticed similar "marks" on the lenses the next day. A dab of water got them off.

I've heard of people using this for scratches with success but I personally have never needed it.

https://www.amazon.com/NOVUS-7136-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UD0GIG/

Finally I use these to protect the lenses. They don't impact the image in any noticeable manner if applied correctly. The Rift lenses are curved so these are the only ones I have seen that actually fit. The 48mm are the ones to get that fit

https://www.amazon.com/Healingshield-Watch-Protector-Guard-1-65in/dp/B00SJ22CY8

u/AerowynX · 2 pointsr/Vive
u/robots_in_high_heels · 2 pointsr/lasercutting

Plastic polish works really well. I've been using this one by Novus

u/DGTownsman · 2 pointsr/NZXT

You could try something like Novus Plastic Polish (change the .com to .de , .co.uk , or whichever you prefer using in Sweden). Honestly not sure if it will remove those fine scratches though or if even using it with a microfiber cloth would make it worse. May be worth a shot though if you don't want to pay to have a replacement shipped.

If it doesn't work/gets worse, I'd recommend mnpctech's replacement window. High quality acrylic that won't scratch nearly as easily. They do international orders via email and paypal so I'm not sure how much it would end up being for you...

u/gundum584 · 2 pointsr/ValveIndex

Had the same thing happen on Vive lense, im not sure if its different than index.
I used https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UD0GIG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and it worked great. I only used the number 2 soultion and then the number 1.

u/kmets4 · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I would reccomend these materials for the two bucket wash method. Its probably the most common method, and one of the safest. There are plenty of youtube how to's on this. These are the materials you'll need.

  • Two buckets that will be used for the two bucket wash method. They can be purchased from a local home center for relatively cheap. $10
  • Grit Guards. Preferably two, in order to prevent grit from reentering the wash mitt. $20
  • Wash Mitt. Something like this will be just fine. $8
  • Car soap. This is completely up to you. Something like Meguiar's Gold Class is fine. $10

  • Wheel brush. Dependent on what you type of wheels you have. A quick amazon search will give you an idea. $10-20
  • Sealant. I use Meguiar's M21. Not the best not the worst. Im sure others will chime in an have recommendations for you. $20.
  • Wax. I don't use a wax because my car is older, and the sealant does just fine.

  • Microfibers. The Rag Company has some great starter kits.

    Not Necessarily essentials, but recommended.

  • Wheel cleaner. Something like Sonax. $15
  • Clay Bar. This will be used to intitially remove contaminants from the car. Plenty of youtube how to's and kits can be found easily through amazon or your local auto parts store. $20

    I don't think you need anything like a DA at this point. Others will have recommendations for you, and I encourage you to take their advice as well. Some great youtube channels are Ammo NYC, Larry is a master at explaining how to's. He has is own line of products but they're expensive. You can even email him with questions and he'll respond quickly and go above and beyond to explain somethingto you. Junkman, also another great channel. Chemical Guys, they have some pretty good products but their customer service is shit. Their youtube videos are pretty good but all they do is upsell their products.

    I'm fairly new to detailing like you. I dont have the best products, but what I use seems to work for me. There are better products out there but budgets can only be so large.
u/NothinToSeeHere · 2 pointsr/subaru

Touchless car washes don't do shit to clean your car. I spent about $8 on that useless machine, and there was still a layer of dirt on my front/rear bumper, side skirts, and grill. Best thing to do if you're on a budget is buy one of these [microfiber wash mitt] (http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-Chenille-Microfiber-Scratch-Free/dp/B003TTL0TE/ref=lp_3020674011_1_2?srs=3020674011&ie=UTF8&qid=1454030316&sr=8-2) and the next time you head over to one of those self service car washes just pre-soak the car and the mit and scrub one panel at a time and rinse off the mitt with the pressure hose.

Edit : If you're not on a budget i would recommend doing the 2 bucket car wash method once a week or so. After about 4-6 months i would clay bar the vehicle and use ONR as a lubricant. There are many sealants out there, but only a few can last nearly 6 months. Chemical guys has some great sealants and waxes, but they have so many that it confuses the shit out of people. Save yourself the hassle and get some Jet Seal, some microfiber applicators and some microfiber towels and you're set.

Edit 2: Here is a list of tested waxes and sealants i found on the interwebs a few weeks back http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=85205

These have been shown to have lasted more than 4 months

"Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection
Chemical Guys: M-Seal, Jetseal 109, Speed Amor
Klasse AIO and Sealant Glaze
Hi Temp Paste
Zaino AIO, Z2 and Z5
Wolfgang Deep Gloss Sealant."

u/kjgjk · 2 pointsr/FocusST

Ryobi wand. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QMKHNM0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nN08Ab1AVTA48

Foam cannon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0798NQTQS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.N08AbJNV28Y7

Home Depot buckets. https://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Home-Depot-5-Gal-Homer-Bucket-05GLHD2/100087613

Wash mitt. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TTL0TE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IQ08Ab8VGZPNJ

Soap. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AFBXQNC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dS08AbSYF7T4H

Pressure washer. https://m.harborfreight.com/1750-psi-13-electric-pressure-washer-63255.html



Micro fiber rags/towel can be had at AutoZone or O'Reilly's. I suggest getting a pack with multiple colors and dedicate a color to windows, front of the car, above the belt line and below the belt line. Then a big microfiber drying towel or two. Somewhere around $20 for all that depending on where you go.

Also check out r/harborfreight for a coupon. 20% are pretty common.

u/CobaltCT · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Soap is lubrication it helps the dirt glide over the paint, where as if you had no soap you would just be pushing the dirt into the paint causing scratches. Also sponges are bad use a chenille wash mitt like this one

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003TTL0TE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485112376&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=chemical+guys+wash+mitt&dpPl=1&dpID=5133hxCtSML&ref=plSrch

If you need any other advice I'd be happy to help

u/rexstryder · 2 pointsr/WRX

And just think, some of the suds dripped off BEFORE I got this shot. Here are the links to the Foam Gun/Cannon and the soap:

Foam Gun/Cannon

Soap - Chemical Guys Honeydew Snow Foam

I also grabbed the mitt that was offered with it from Amazon.

I added some soap to the canister with the water to dilute it. I just poured in what I thought was good. My pressure washer is a gas powered Troy from Lowes rated at 2900 PSI.

Hope this helps you out.

u/15_bonneville_t100 · 2 pointsr/ft86

I have quite a process now for this car.

I use the 2 bucket method with the following:

  1. Put Grit Guard in one bucket, fill that with just water
  2. Put soap / water in other bucket (mixture ratio depends on what kind of soap you have)
  3. Rinse the car off with the hose
  4. Use the Cleaning Sprayer to get the first layer of dirt off
  5. Rinse the car off
  6. Take the wash mitt, dunk in water bucket and scrub on the grit guard, then ring out
  7. Dunk wash mitt in soap bucket, lather it up
  8. Wash one panel of the car in one direction with the wash mitt
  9. Hose down that panel of the car
  10. Repeat steps 6-9 for each panel of the car
  11. Once car is washed, use the cleaning sprayer all over the car one last time
  12. Rinse entire car
  13. Take microfiber cloth and carefully dry each panel with a different cloth (sometimes 2), going in one direction

    Extra stuff:

  • I also use a generic glass cleaner and take a microfiber cloth and do each window as well

    At first this took me almost 2 hours to wash my car, but after doing it every other week I'm now down to only an hour. It's extreme but it's detailed and allows me to also check if there are any rock chips, which I can then cover with some touch up paint.




u/akatherder · 2 pointsr/funny

Amazon has some too. Not sure how much shipping is but some are available on prime. I got this one which is softer for carpets but works great on bathroom soap scum.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TU662Y/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=1535523722&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0051C02OG&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0AQY6CXKQEQ29DK8MYKC

u/TabascoButthole · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Planning to wash and wax my wife's car this weekend. My plan is to use Meg'sUltimate as the wax. I've used NuFinish forEVER.

Would/Could/Should I apply NuFinish and then Meg's?


Edit: spelling

u/orwangatang · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Some OTC stuff you can try are Mother's back to black or Meguiars Ultimate Black

u/return2ozma · 2 pointsr/Volvo

This is what you need:

Meguiar's G15812 Ultimate Black Plastic Restorer
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0055PD1H4/

u/nerdymagoo · 2 pointsr/MINI

I use Meguiars.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0055PD1H4

It lasts as long as I don't hand wash the car. I have terribly hard water and it really streaks it up. It seems to holds up to the occasional car wash and rain. wash

u/cam3200 · 2 pointsr/simracing

I believe this is it: SONAX SONAX (206141) Upholstery and Alcantara Cleaner - 8.45 fl. oz. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00BBWJ16U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nyEHAbCZVRXHP

Haven't tried it because my Alcantara still looks nice but it does have good reviews.

u/srmccoy · 2 pointsr/Surface

They're a blend of Alcantara with some sort of polyurethane to make them more durable.

I use this stuff every week with a damn cloth per the instructions. It works well enough, but there's still a faint discoloration on the palm rests when I'm done. In some lighting it's barely visible, outdoors it's very noticeable.

I may try the toothbrush instead of cloth, though. Thanks!

u/Jouaram_The_Fat_Mule · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

What year is your car?

Leather no it shouldn't crack like that after a year.

Alcantara, yes it can. Alcantara is terrible and is nothing but a royal pain to restore/care for. I use this to treat my alcantara.

u/KingPupPup · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Pretty much the same as regular cloth. Alcantara requires special cleaning products though and to be a little more gentle when rubbing the product in. I feel that stains stick to alcantara more compared to regular cloth, so you will have to repeat product applciation a few times, which can be time consuming. Product

u/noobie107 · 2 pointsr/mazda
u/Tical79 · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Do you mean the 303 protectant, or an interior cleaner from 303?

Just asking because you may mentioned cleaner, so you might be comparing apples to oranges... explaining such a gap in performance.

u/battleguard · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

So I am looking into buying some detailing supplies for doing wheels and was hoping someone could look over this list. It is probably overkill, but I would rather have everything I need I think.

Brushes

ABN Wheel Whoolies

Boars Hair Detail Brush Set

Mothers Wheel Brush

Cleaners

Iron X

Meguiars Hot Shine Gloss Tire Spray

Meguiars D101 APC

The total comes out to $113 but I figured I would only be buying most of these items once so it will be worth it. Also this list doesnt even have any sort of sealant so not sure if I should buy one of those also?

u/YankeeATZ · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Been slowly building up 'maintenance' type supplies and think I'm on the right track but have a few questions. Here's what I've got:

  1. I have been considering getting some Meg's APC. Am I correct that I could use this on tires, light buildup on tailpipes, Husky (like Weatherbeater) all-weather floor mats? Any guidelines on dilution for these applications; and what else could the APC be used for?
  2. For interior cleaning, can I safely use the Meg's QID with the brushes to get inside crevices including around switchgear without risk of short-circuiting something?
  3. QID on a MF OK to clean nav/LCD screens?

    We had both of our cars detailed a couple months ago by someone who has a small side business in our neighborhood, so they are in pretty good shape, and just want to keep them that way. At some point in the future, I may consider getting a DA but for now just want to get better at regular maintenance.

    Thanks for reading this long-winded post!
u/amberrgerr · 1 pointr/subaru

There is a product (I use meguiar's brand) called compound that you can use to minimize the appearance of swirls if applied by hand, and if done with a dual action polisher will remove them completely. It is also great for removing shallow scratches in clear coat and general clear coat issues (aside from flaking and scratches that are deep). Check out /r/AutoDetailing for more info :)

u/lifetrees · 1 pointr/subaru
u/Jynxmaster · 1 pointr/videos

If anyone has lots of scratches/defects in their paint, here are a couple steps that really make a huge difference for a total of ~$25:

u/InsertBluescreenHere · 1 pointr/Autobody

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM

​

i have good luck with that stuff - wallyworld has it as well as every auto parts place

u/Ferrocile · 1 pointr/Guitar

Yes, agreed. 800 -> 2000 grit. You will want to alternate directions (ie. if you are doing left & right with 800 grit, then go up & down with 1000 etc) and make sure that the scratches left behind by the previous grit are all gone before moving to the next one. You'll want swirl remover like Meguire's Ultimate Compound after you finish with the 2000 grit. There are several grades of swirl remover with finer and finer grits -- if you're really anal about it, you can get a coarse and a fine, but I only used the Ultimate compound and it worked well for me. It's a lot of work, but can be a really rewarding experience if you get the result you're looking for. You might even find you enjoyed it in the end and start building/refinishing your own partscasters, which is what I do now :)

Good luck!

u/Splazoid · 1 pointr/HondaCB

Looks like delaminating clear coat. I highly recommend using McGuire's to polish just about anything with paint on it. Beautiful product that works wonders. Lovely bike it seems!

u/rondonsa · 1 pointr/coins

I've starting using Novus, which seems to be fairly popular with other coin collectors. It comes in a pack of 3, with one bottle for fingerprints and dirt, one for light scratches, and one for heavy scratches. Very happy with it so far.

u/fpreview · 1 pointr/fountainpens

> I also learned how to lacquer the pens, I use a spray lacquer and what I like to call my spray box, I use this so the spay doesn’t go everywhere. Before I did this I sanded them starting with 120 grit paper and going up to 1000 grit using the sand paper, after that I used some sponge backed pads which started at 1500 grit and went up to 12000 grit. I am never sure how long I should be sanding them though.

See if you can get the Novus plastic polish https://www.amazon.com/Novus-7136-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UD0GIG is the US amazon link. With what you describe on sanding process, you can then move to the Novus and have very good looking pens without a lacquer layer. I also think you get better overall results.

For your question. Sand each grit until you can't see scratches from the previous grit. If you move on and see a bigger scratch than the previous, back up a level and go until it is removed. Off of the lathe you would switch directions each time, on the lathe you just have to keep an eye on it. Once you get things on a solid base, progressive grits go quickly.

> To get rid of tool marks in the blank go over the piece multiple times not adjusting the positioning of the tool, the nature of the lathe is that it spins and when you move the tool you will get trenches in the material, when you go over it multiple times you end up lathing away the ridges.

If you are getting ridges, either your tool isn't set up properly, or your feed speed is wrong. You should see tool marks, but not ridges. If you have a pic of the blank in the lathe as you work it, that would be helpful.

> And lastly, I need to find something I can put up the pen barrel so that I can sand or lathe down the whole length, so far my search has been fruitless.

Make it. If you have a standard internal thread, make what you need to thread the pen blank on to work on it.

That's a lot of info to your questions. But finally I want to say good job. You really are getting the hang of this, and it is showing.

u/WhiskeyWomanizer · 1 pointr/Lexus

NOVUS 7136 Plastic Polish Kit - 2 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UD0GIG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_x8ELybCGS2NRK

Blue bottle #1 is a very mild abrasive that will take the coating off without damaging the screen underneath

u/mrvile · 1 pointr/oculus

It really depends on how deep the scratches are.

Your best bet for minimal scuffs and scratches would be a plastic polishing compound. I use Novus pretty often when I do acrylic fabrication professionally, it is fine enough not to alter the optics if you use it properly.

If the scratches are deep enough to require sanding, I would advise against it since you risk removing too much material and altering the optics irreparably. If the scratches are too deep for polishing compound, you'll have to just live with it.

u/yech · 1 pointr/Corvette

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UD0GIG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You may want to move to the 8oz. I haven't used this yet, but someone from r/vive said yesterday they used it to repair scratches on a delicate lens (more important for functionality than your t top). I just bought this to try on my vive that has a scratched lens. If you'd want to wait a couple days I can update you on my success!

u/twinturbogarage · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Sure

This is the one I currently use: Chemical Guys MIC_493 Chenille Microfiber Premium Scratch-Free Wash Mitt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TTL0TE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0tgFxb1M1HBR5
Literally the only CG product I own. I like that it's green so I can see the dirt. However here is one that is highly rated, but is blue, but if you don't mind that these ones seem good too, especially if you have a large vehicle. Plus you can dedicate one to the upper and lower half or however

Ultimate Car Wash Mitt - 2 pack Extra Large Size - Premium Chenille Microfiber Wash Mitt - Wash Glove - Lint Free - Scratch Free https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011B25IXY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0vgFxbQ8H8HA9

u/DifficultBoss · 1 pointr/MTB

Are you using a sponge, brush, or something else? I’ve had best luck with an automotive wash mitt like this.

u/BumpitySnook · 1 pointr/bikewrench

Soapy water + big loofa e.g. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TTL0TE/ works reasonably well without having to take it apart.

u/CarterLawler · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

I guess this wash mit is pretty Awwdorable .... ish?

u/DaegenLok · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Hope this helps! This isn't an exhaustive list of the best professional products but some of the best top rated affordable and highly rated by forums and high subscriber YouTubers. I'll try to answer questions as they come. Thanks for all tye comments and positive/critical feedback. Promise is all helps in the end!

Wash/Decontamination

  1. Meguiar’s Gold Class Shampoo Car Wash - $23 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071HR14SJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  2. Mothers California Gold Clay Bar System (Best out of the packaged kits compared to “professional” line expensive clays/lubes) - $16 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002U2V1Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  3. Carpro Iron X Iron Remover 500 ml with Sprayer - $19 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UM6DLE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  4. CarPro Eraser Intense Oil & Polish Cleanser (Rated a little higher than Gyeon Prep – A few options out there but this is cheap and works great compared to straight IPA spray/wipe. It’s not rough on the clear coat and doesn’t cause issues with using higher % of IPA over time) - $17 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FY0XY1S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  5. 2x Five-Gallon buckets with a dirt guard in the bottom. – Lowe’s $10-$15 with the dirt guard (already had that)

    Wheels/Tires
  6. CarGuys “Premium Wheel Cleaner” - $17 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014V9GFJU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  7. Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish (Classic Product but you really won’t find a more reliable and top notch wheel polish than this – Here is Amazon link but usually you can pick this up cheaper at Walmart for about $4 or $5 I believe) - $7 - https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05101-Mag-Aluminum-Polish/dp/B0009H519Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549046381&sr=8-3&keywords=mag+and+aluminum+polish
  8. 1x 2.5 Gallon Bucket Dedicated To Wheel Cleaning ONLY – Lowe’s $5

    Compounding/Polishing
  9. Meguiar’s New m110 (Newer m105) Compound (Try To Find A 15% Coupon) - $40 - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/meguiars-m110-pro-compound.html#.XFRhIlVKhpg
  10. Meguiar’s New m210 (Newer m205) Finishing Polish/Swirl Remover (Try To Find A 15% Coupon) - $40 - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/meguiars-m210-pro-finishing-polish.html#.XFRhIVVKhpg
  11. 6x Pack Lake Country CCS Compounding/Polishing Pads – 3x Orange/2x White/1x Green – $60 (Try to find a usable 15% coupon) - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/ccs-pads.html#.XFRfgVVKhpg
  12. Meguiar’s PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish (Using for rear/front light polishing – Could use your compound to polish as an alternative but I like the protection factor built into this plastic polish) - $5 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AY3SR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  13. Car Foam Drill Polishing Pad Kit - 22x Piece 3” Buffing Pads (Cheap drill adapter + pads for head/tail lights only – You could go with a legit company for 3” pads but for the cost it was a joke and they are only for head/tail lights, NOT paint) - $11 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076ZJMHB1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


    Finshing Wax/Protectant/Plastic & Trim Restorer
  14. Meguiar’s Ultimate Liquid Wax - $16 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HCM9H4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  15. TriNova Plastic & Trim Restorer (Hard Pressed to find anything as affordable for the ratings) - $13 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AAZ1OAE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


    Interior/Glass Cleaners
  16. 303 PROTECTANT: Interior & Exterior UV Protectant (Use it to wipe leather seats, dash, and plastics) - $10 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0185PU38A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  17. Invisible Glass Premium Glass Cleaner w/ EZ Grip (Awesome stuff) - $4 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KAON5Q2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1


    Convertible Fabric Top Cleaner/Protectant/Sealer
  18. RaggTopp Fabric Convertible Top Cleaner/Protectant Kit (This is top in class. There aren’t really any other higher rated options. Go with kit that has cleaner/brush/protectant sealer.) - $50 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008MM5ZFI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


    Microfiber Cloths/Car Drying Microfiber Cloths/Buffing Microfibers/Brushes/Etc.
  19. Zwipes Microfiber Cleaning Cloths (24-Pack) (**Found this on a couple lists online for high ratings and they are soft/Highly rated on Amazon and cheap!) - $13 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANZHG7C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  20. Chemical Guys Chenille Microfiber Premium Scratch-Free Wash Mitt (Might consider 2-3 of them for washing the top and bottom parts of car – prevent further scratching) - $7 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TTL0TE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  21. Mothers Wheel Brush - $8 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GJ3DZS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  22. Chemical Guys Microfiber Wash Cleaning Detergent Concentrate (Almost all the videos put this one as #1 compared to a couple other companies that offer dedicated microfiber wash detergent) - $10 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TJXWH4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  23. Chemical Guys Woolly Mammoth Microfiber Dryer Towel (25 in. x 36 in.) - $25 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042Z0LEO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  24. Other Random buffing foam applicators and microfiber cloths that came with some of the kits listed above. Will use those for compound wiping and etc.
  25. Plastic Containers For Organization – Hefty 1.625 (Microfiber container) & 3.75 (Other products w/o squirt triggers) Gallon Containers I believe are the ones in the picture. These are awesome considering the cheap pricing. The plastic is heavy duty and the lathes aer decent all things considered. - https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hefty-1-625-Gallon-6-5-Quart-Clear-Tote-with-Latching-Lid/1000505511

u/Warrior_of_Keyboards · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Save your money, just get this and this instead and start washing. You'll find out what else you want/need as you go.

u/skyze · 1 pointr/vancouver

Adding on to this - if you don't have access to a hose you can use

ONR with washmitt then dried with microfiber towels.

u/singsing718 · 1 pointr/GolfGTI

I use the following wash mitt can confirm it works well. Haven’t observed any swirl marks as of yet.

u/RugerRedhawk · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

I used one of these bad boys (http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-ACC_201_BRUSH_MD-Medium-Attachment/dp/B003TU662Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1462977413&sr=8-2&keywords=drill+brush) hooked up to my drill coupled with abrasive cleaner (comet/ajax) to remove hard water stains from my fiberglass tub surround. Don't see why it wouldn't do the trick on your porcelain, unless there's a rule about using abrasives on it that I'm unaware of.

u/alle0441 · 1 pointr/AskEngineers

You're obviously entitled to your opinion. I don't consider myself a handyman at all, either. But I will say I use my cordless drill frequently for many things. See this, this, this, etc.

u/MrNerd82 · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Is the white stuff just lime scale?

Try scrubbing bubbles and a shower drill brush:
https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-ACC_201_BRUSH_MD-Medium-Attachment/dp/B003TU662Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1506235715&sr=8-3&keywords=shower+drill+brush

If it's mold/mildew hit it with some bleach and see what happens.

u/AFewShellsShort · 1 pointr/motorcycles

If the paint/plastic is in good condition-
MEGUIAR'S G18216 Ultimate Liquid Wax, 16 Fluid Ounces, 1 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004HCM9H4/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_0.XpDbN62H181

If the clearcoat has some surface rubbing "haze" you might need to clean it up before wax.
Meguiar's G19220 Ultimate Polish, 20 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X413M7J/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_QbYpDbKCBNB2M

Just remember wax more often in summer heat, and dont over polish, because its basically sanding down surface to smooth out problems.

u/DJdannyK · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

I used Meguiars Ultimate Liquid Wax http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G18216-Ultimate-Liquid-Wax/dp/B004HCM9H4. And thanks for the positive thoughts!

u/DarkLordKnoll · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Been looking to detail my car, and while I am still getting my stuff along with trying to find the time to do it.. I've started to come up with a couple of questions.

  1. Is it safe to use a magic eraser on the exterior / interior of my windshield + other glass on the car? Or would getting a drill adapter to polish the glass be a better option? Is there anything I can use to seal and protect the glass after cleaning it?

    The windshield has it's fair share of micro pitting and surface knicks (not cracks). And since a magic eraser acts as a very fine sandpaper I was thinking that it could possibly help to smooth out some of the pitting and knicks just to make these spots less noticeable when light hits it at certain angles.

    ​

  1. What is the best product / way to darken the pillars on my doors and seal them?

    Currently they are not that faded, but id like to keep them up before they get to that point.

    ​

  2. When I do detail the car I am planning to polish the car with Meguiar's M20508 Mirror Glaze Ultra Finishing Polish then use Meguiar's G18216 Ultimate Liquid Wax to protect it. What sort of pads or applicators do I need to apply this stuff?

    I have microfiber towels for cleaning and buffing but not sure what type of applicator pads to use.

    ​

    Also, any recommendations on a good / reliable, but repetitively inexpensive shopvac?
    Not looking for one with a bag or anything, just something for cleaning out the interior as those dam gas station vacuums are not worth 2$ for 4 minutes when you cant even get under the seats..

    ​

    Thank you for any and all feedback!
u/akn5 · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

I personally have only used the Nanoskin sponge to decontaminate my car. It's a highly recommended clay alternative.

As for a sealant/wax, I'm not sure if my recommendations will be of any use since I just started detailing my own car over the last ~6 months. I have only tried one wax (Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid Wax) and one sealant (Opti-Seal). Longevity of the Ultimate Liquid Wax wasn't great IMO. I'd look into Collinite 845 since it's highly regarded and there are plenty of tips/tricks on how to use it.

Honestly, easiest solution may be go to with CarPro Essence or HD Speed. I don't think there are any special tips/tricks on how to use Essence or HD Speed, and both will allow you to polish and seal your paint in one step. Admittedly, I haven't looked into either much, but they are next in line for me to research.

u/b0ltzmann138e-23 · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Newbie here

Someone please recommend an inexpensive and easy to apply sealer. Preferable one available on amazon.

Also - are there any instructional videos on using Nanoskin sponge?

EDIT:
My thoughts were to wash with 2 bucket method, clean up the paint using the nanoskin sponge and then seal it in to give it protection for the coming summer months.

Would any of these work as a sealer? Which one is the best in giving me long term protection? Easiest to apply?
Also - can I use these towels ? Or are they a bad idea?

Meguiar's M21 Mirror Glaze Synthetic Sealant 2.0

Meguiar's M20 Mirror Glaze Polymer Sealant

Meguiars G18216 Ultimate Liquid Wax

u/strikehold · 1 pointr/Audi
u/Kubi74 · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Opinion: I think this at 1/4 of the price will do almost an identical job to the ammo http://www.amazon.com/S100-13700W-Carnauba-Paste-Wax/dp/B000GZQP08/

These carnauba waxes will not last long... especially in heat.

-

Instead of the gold, go with the ultimate like the other dude said, AMAZING wax for the price:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HCM9H4/

This stuff will last a long time. great beading.

u/Travels4Work · 1 pointr/Wrangler

If worried about the trying the heatgun option (which does work, see vids on youtube), you might start with Meguiar's Ultimate Black or Mother's Back to Black.

u/jwaterworth · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

depending on their state will change the answer. You can get them replaced. You could also use something like meguiars back to black to "paint" them black again.

https://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-G15812-Ultimate-Plastic-Restorer/dp/B0055PD1H4

u/FJ60GatewayDrug · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Thanks! The rubber and trim is all NLA— I'll look into what plasti-dipping it would take. I also need to take the roof rack down, remove all the chipping paint (what's left if it, anyway), and then re-paint it. Have you used Meguiar's Black Plastic Restorer?

For power washing, am I doing it right? Can I use more pressure? Just looking for some guidance, since I'm just doing what seems mostly right without much knowledge of if it really is right.

u/Kiriesh · 1 pointr/Jeep

Fyi you can use black plastic restoration stuff (link: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0055PD1H4) and seal it with armor all to restore it to the factory coloring. I used it on my JKU and as long as you apply the armor all occasionally I haven't had mine fade. I have found that dirt from off roading does bake on and fade the plastic if you leave it but hosing it off right after you go can save you from that.

u/Sanquintin0309 · 1 pointr/WRXSTi
u/despitegirls · 1 pointr/Surface

I haven't tried it on mine, but I've read that an Alcantara cleaner like the below works well:

Sonax (206141) Upholstery and Alcantara Cleaner - 8.45 fl. oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BBWJ16U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rVU1CbDKNY8RP

There's others, and if you read reviews you'll find people who've used it on their Alcantara Surfaces with success. The only reservation I would have is with later versions of Alcantara (ie. Surface Laptop) which supposedly have a different protective layer than the Alcantara Touch Cover, which I have.

u/dijon360 · 1 pointr/Surface

Have you tried this stuff?

https://www.amazon.com/Sonax-206141-Upholstery-Alcantara-Cleaner/dp/B00BBWJ16U/

​

When I had my SL, I treated it monthly with this. I never let it get too dirty but any minor dirt/stains were resolved by using this.

u/Jcivy · 1 pointr/Surface

I left mine at airport security check and the airport had to mail it to my house. The person put tape on alacantra keyboard backside, and wrote my name on the tape in pen. The pen marked past the tape and resulted in an inch long pen stain on the alacantra keyboard that I use on my surface pro 3. I successfully removed the blue ink line with the product link below. Just follow instructions. I highly recommend using the brush that is recommended under the "frequently bought together".
I will add that I used a high power stand fan to dry the alacantra area after I have finished cleaning it with the brush.



Sonax (206141) Upholstery and Alcantara Cleaner - 8.45 fl. oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BBWJ16U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_i67-Ab6P2VNY1

u/mwaldron · 1 pointr/Surface

I've been planning to buy a bottle of this for a few weeks to clean mine. It's probably snake oil in a bottle but it's still cheaper than inkjet printer ink!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BBWJ16U

u/spankybranch · 1 pointr/FiestaST

I use all 303 products on my interior bits :

UV Protector:
https://www.amazon.com/303-30218-Automotive-Conditioner-Protectant/dp/B0185PU34O/

Leather Cleaner:
https://www.amazon.com/303-30382-Automotive-Protectant-finished/dp/B0185PU38A/

Seat Cloth:
https://www.amazon.com/303-30616-Fabric-Trigger-Sprayer/dp/B0000AY69N/

Even with this my driver side left leg-bolster is showing quite a bit of wear in 7k miles/10 months. All the leather in the car has a nice matte-finish but that bolster is very shiny and the texture has almost worn completely away from getting in/out of the car, pretty disappointed.

u/BatmanTDF10 · 1 pointr/JeepRenegade

I had this problem as well, took it back to the dealer and had them get it off (unfortunately I can’t remember exactly what they did). Once it was off you could still see the faded outlines, so I applied 303 UV Protectant on it every couple of weeks since then and the marks have completely gone away.

Here's my post from a few months back...

u/BishBoJangle · 1 pointr/cars

Use Meguiar's for the seats every few months.

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10916-Leather-Cleaner-Conditioner/dp/B0002V9IFU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495387042&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+leather

Wash is, you guessed it, a Meguiar's product.

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Gold-Class-Shampoo-Gallon/dp/B00068OU7U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495387140&sr=8-2&keywords=meguiars+gold+class+car+wash

For a wax, I really like the NXT 2.0, also from Mequiar's.

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G12718-NXT-Generation-Tech/dp/B0002UQATS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495387101&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+nxt+tech+wax+2.0

Dash protectant, I use 303.

https://www.amazon.com/303-Protectant-plastic-finished-leather/dp/B0185PU38A/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1495387193&sr=8-4&keywords=303+protectant

Now, for washing, you want to always use (2) buckets, each with a grit-guard at the bottom. One bucket is a rinse bucket for your cleaning mitt. You dip your wash mitt in the rinse bucket (which is just water) before dipping into the soap bucket each time you do a different section of the car. Helps to minimize swirling and contaminants ruining your paint.

Don't go in a swirling pattern when washing the car, instead, go in straight lines back and forth.

After rinsing the car down, take your drying towel and lightly drag it in straight lines across the difference sections of the car. You don't need to apply pressure, just let it lightly drag across the car. You will see a light layer of water left after dragging the towel across. That's fine, it will dry quickly and gives the towel some lubrication which also minimizes scratching.

u/mysql101 · 1 pointr/TeslaModel3

Yep, made for the interior (leather, plastics, etc) and it also products from UV. Originally designed for boats.

https://smile.amazon.com/303-30382-Protectant-plastic-finished/dp/B0185PU38A

u/MagneticGray · 1 pointr/fordfusion

I use Meguiars Ultimate Liquid Wax every 2-3 months. I wash with Meguiars Wash & Wax in the winter or Gold Class during the rest of the year and then finish with X-Press Spray Wax to refresh my wax coat after every wash. I’ve found that Ford paint/clear coat absolutely loves Meguiars formulas and the routine I use keeps all my Fords shining like wet glass. I don’t use paste waxes or ceramic coatings anymore because they’re such a pain to remove when it’s time to reapply. Liquid wax goes on easy, shines for 2-3 months, and then comes of just as easy so it saves you a ton of time when you have two or three cars in your household to maintain.

Most wheel stuff is pretty much the same but I use Meguiars Hot Rims on my wheels and Hot Shine on my tires around once a month or after every other wash and it keeps them shining beautifully. Keeping a coat of Hot Rims on the wheels prevents brake dust from bonding to them so you can just spray them off to keep them clean between applications.

For my black plastic trim and weather stripping I use 303 Aerospace Protectant once in the fall and once in the spring and it keeps it looking like new plastic and not greasy or overly shiny. The 303 has UV protection that prevents fading as well.

u/Morketh · 1 pointr/TeslaLounge

K I've read several people use that car guys super cleaner. Is that all you put on your interior ever or do I need to add a UV protector after like 303 UV protectant?

https://www.amazon.com/303-30382-Protectant-plastic-finished/dp/B0185PU38A/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=303+aerospace&qid=1573275554&s=automotive&sr=1-2

u/meechu · 1 pointr/SubaruForester

best there is. . Significantly better that armor all products in my opinion.

u/atomxv · 1 pointr/XVcrosstrek

they don't look deep and I wouldn't be surprised if scratch x would take em right out (or make them nearly invisible).

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10307-ScratchX-2-0-Scratch/dp/B0002UNON8

u/SpamDog_of_War · 1 pointr/bikewrench

this stuff works amazing:

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10307-ScratchX-2-0-oz/dp/B0002UNON8

edit: you should be able to find it at your local auto parts store.

u/DetroitAdventureDog · 1 pointr/motorcycles
u/Nestorthemolestor · 1 pointr/DIY

Pics will help.

I have had a lot of success with this product: http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G-10307-G10307-ScratchX/dp/B0002UNON8

If you live in North America you can find it at any auto store.

PM me for more info.

u/Ferroussoul · 1 pointr/3DS

Try scratchX 2.0! I found this in another thread for getting scratches out of old 3DS's. I actually used it on my top screen and I'm incredibly happy with the results. Two major gashes and a lot of microscratches from stupidly using a CD cleaner on it effectively gone.

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10307-ScratchX-2-0-oz/dp/B0002UNON8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425917884&sr=8-1&keywords=scratchx+2.0

u/UberRockTroll · 1 pointr/MustangTech
u/doslinux · 1 pointr/Volkswagen

Try this first:
http://amzn.com/B0002UNON8

If that doesn't work try this:
http://amzn.com/B003NS5NK8

Check out these forums for more information on paint care etc...

http://www.autopia.org/

u/Tyrantkv · 1 pointr/oculus

This is the link to the one I got costs a lot less. Simichrome 390050 All Metal Polish Tube - 1.76 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YUQ4E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_W.vKAbHYWEWSK

And here's the exact lens cleaner spray. Set of 2 Carl Zeiss Lens Cleaning Spray 2oz - 60ml Travel Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JFD6KAW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8bwKAbYQA3VMW

A couple things that I've read here that I want to clear up. The fresnal ridges are not on the side of the lens that you look through, they are on the other side so you're not sanding that down you're sanding down a side that is supposed to be smooth. If the scratches on your lens are not visible in the hmd then obviously you don't *need to do anything, unless you're like me and just can't stand scratches.

Proceed with caution but a pro tip - it doesn't matter. You'll be happier after the scratches are gone. Also get yourself a small thumb sized led flashlight. You can hold it in near the lenses to better see the scratches. Enjoy the clarity...

u/vintagenib · 1 pointr/fountainpens
u/DirtyMexican87 · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

And if you really want it to shine, the steel wool + [simichrome] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YUQ4E/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_ejWgub1RK0D7Z) . It's a metal polish and works amazing. Plus makes it for easier cleaning on the next application. A little bit goes a long way.

u/GlockGuru · 1 pointr/Glocks

No, there is no one product that is going to do it all for you - Especially not over an extended period of time. Most of the time I use either FrogLube, or Ray's Gun Wax on the outside of my EDC Glocks. Sometimes, and for shorter time periods, I'll use either Break-Free, Ballistol, or pharmaceutical grade Mineral Oil. For, 'safe queens' that go untouched for extended lengths of time I like to use: FrogLube, Ray's Gun Wax, or Sentry Solutions, 'Tuf-Glide'.

I always clean my EDC Glock bores with a brush, patch, and either of these chemically identical products: Flitz Metal Polish, Simichrome Metal Polish, or Iosso Bore Cleaner. (Be careful with the last two products on the outside of a blued gun - OK!) Afterwards I'll run an isopropyl alcohol soaked patch through the bore, and then final coat it with Sentry Solutions, 'Smooth-Kote'.

On Glock's well know internal lubrication points I like to use one drop of Lucas Gun Oil which seems to have an affinity for metal and stays put very well.

u/MrNanny · 1 pointr/jewelers

Try Simichrome. I found that it works great on flat areas on silver. Use a soft cloth and the compound.

Simichrome 390050 All Metal Polish Tube - 1.76 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YUQ4E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_S2d8CbHMHRMM5

u/seejaypee · 1 pointr/Yotography

They one on the left is raw aluminum, and the two stacked up are nickel. I did a titanium that just arrived last week with the same polish as well, but it didn't seem to do much for that material, but it totally blasts out nickel and aluminum. :)

I use Semichrome polish

https://www.amazon.com/Simichrome-390050-Metal-Polish-Tube/dp/B0002YUQ4E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525812594&sr=8-1&keywords=simichrome+polish

u/Dahaka11 · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Whoops how about Einszett Cockpit Premium

u/Malaka79 · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

nextzett 92470515 Cockpit Premium - 16.9 fl. oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002Z2MZ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Lp9nDbAH0FMJT

u/megustareddito · 1 pointr/GolfGTI
  1. I'd try this brush with some Nextzett Cockpit Premium
  2. Like Beast said, Badgeskins sells a sticker to cover that.
  3. For the steering wheel, I'd recommend Lexol. I also use that to clean my leather seats, followed by their leather conditioner every now and then.
u/xMico1236 · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Yes you can use that one, I actually have this one. I bought a two pack in case something happens with one so I'll have one on hand.

The interior was easy. Vacuum, wiped down with Nextzett Cockpit Premium, and dressed some parts with 303. The only bad thing was I was vacuuming in the sun, so it was hot af. The paint had oxidation, but the owner didn't have much time so I only washed it and sealed it with Sonax Polymer Net Shield.

u/liquid-snek · 1 pointr/TeslaLounge

Figured my routine might be useful to people looking at this kind of thing:

For the interior I highly, highly recommend using Nextzett Cockpit Premium. I ordered like 23 different interior products off of Amazon and it was the only one I liked for a true matte look inside that didn’t smell weird. I use it on everything except the screen, and it really does a great job of cleaning without leaving behind shine or residue.

I use a Sunjoe pressure washer for the outside, and a foam cannon. I use Adams Ultra Foam on my wife’s M3, and on mine I use CarPro Reset (I have Xpel Stealth). I use the two bucket method after foaming the car down. The pressure washer is super easy to use and was a great investment.

I dry with an Adams Air Cannon and it’s amazing if you are washing your car in your garage or driveway. No messing with towels or possible scratches. It’s extremely powerful, I was pretty surprised. Plus the air is warm and filtered.

For wheels I use Griots Heavy Duty Wheel cleaner, with a Chemical Guys brush. I’ve never been a “clean your wheels” kind of guy before my Tesla, but it’s really easy to do.

For interior scent, I have tried countless products. It’s actually almost sad how many car scent products I have tried (not a smoker, just like a good smelling car). The only one that I would recommend is Ozium in the can, not aerosol. It has a light citrus smell that gets tons of compliments like “your car always smells so clean and fresh, not fake or like cologne”. The only other close contender is Dr Beasleys Leather, closely followed by their New Car Scent. It’s actually the only New Car scent I can stand. I settled on Ozium because it’s set and forget. I keep a small can in the front of my car, and a big can in the trunk.

I hate waterless washing for the most part (saving the planet aside) just because it’s never really as effective as a full wash without ten times the work. ONR is a good product though, and easy to use.

Best thing I ever did on both of our M3s is getting a professional ceramic coating put on. Washing is about ten times as easy as it was before, and drying is about 20x. Definitely recommend it, on both a wrapped or unwrapped car.

u/pale2hall · 1 pointr/techsupportgore

It's actually Cockpit Premium: https://www.amazon.com/nextzett-92470515-Cockpit-Premium-16-9/dp/B0002Z2MZ4

It works great for car interiors and old plastics / laptops / etc.

u/HomeGymOKC · 1 pointr/GolfGTI

This. Only this.

And a microfiber towel

nextzett 92470515 Cockpit Premium - 16.9 fl. oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002Z2MZ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yoq9Ab8WR6WHS

u/Elvis_Fu · 1 pointr/mazda

I just cleaned the interior of my new 6 with products/techniques from /r/autodetailing. Its a great sub.

For the dash/panels/screen, I brushed dust gently with a horsehair brush (I bought a new shoeshine brush). Spray a little 1z Cockpit Premium on a microfiber cloth and wiped down. Then I wiped again with a dry cloth. Nice clean matte finish, not the super slick & shiny Armor All look. I used Lexol leather cleaner on my leather seats, after brushing the dust off.

Here's the interior cleaner I used, but there are others. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002Z2MZ4?pc_redir=1395735928&robot_redir=1

u/x_ZappBrannigan_x · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Eraser is a fantastic product but it's expensive. For your needs I would rather purchase this gallon of APC. It can be used diluted 4:1 for your wheels and tires and it can be used on any stubborn areas on the paint as well. It can also be diluted 10:1 for your interior. To use it to strip wax, put a few ounces of it in your soap bucket with your soap and wash as usual.

Your order of operations would be this:

  1. Wash - wheels and tires first, then body

  2. Clay bar - you can use your soap in your soap bucket for this as well provided it is not overly contaminated. Be sure to use grit guards in both buckets

  3. Polish (if you would like) - after you polish use a dilution of Isopropyl alcohol and water to strip the polishing oils off the paint with a microfiber cloth.

  4. Apply your last step products, sealants, waxes....
u/Enrager · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Meguiar's D101 All Purpose Cleaner Is 16 for a gallon which you dilute. Goes a long way!

u/ender4171 · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Personally, I use Meguiar's D101 though if you don't want to buy a whole gallon of concentrate Chemical Guys All Clean + is also good. The AC+ is a concentrate too, even though it comes in a spray bottle.

u/oc412 · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

The items I used in this was a [Nanoskin Foamer Trigger Sprayer] (http://www.amazon.com/Nanoskin-92-709-Foamer-Trigger-Sprayer/dp/B00X124AIM?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00) with [Meguiars D101] (http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D10101-Detailer-Purpose-Cleaner/dp/B0006SH4GE/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1463972157&sr=1-1&keywords=meguiars+d101) diluted 4:1 in the bottle. The 3D spray bottle with chemical resistant sprayer was bought locally in one of their stores in Compton, CA. It was about $6. The bottle with the nanoskin sprayer came from WalMart. I got the bottle and a sprayer with it for $1!! The photo at the end of the review with the blue and white sprayer is what comes with it. The nanoskin foamer sprayer fit perfectly on the bottle. Its 32 oz and has measurements for diluting on the side. They are also very thick and made by Bottle Crew and can be found [here] (http://www.bottlecrew.com/browse/retail-products/32-oz-all-purpose-sprayer-3/) on their site. They also sell [these] (http://www.bottlecrew.com/browse/retail-products/32-oz-2nd-nature-proffessional-sprayer/) at my local walmart from the same company. I have a couple that I use for dressing 1:1 and they work great. They mist real fine if you want them to and also spray upside down. In the 3D spray bottle I used LA Awesome degreaser 5:1 on the tires. I dressed them with [CG VRP] (http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-TVD_107_16-V-R-P-Dressing/dp/B00FJIT9BO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463972523&sr=8-1&keywords=chemical+guys+vrp).

The details are in the imgur link.

u/droid683 · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Just found this on amazon. Not quite $10 for shipping.

Meguiar's D10101 Detailer All Purpose Cleaner Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006SH4GE/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_ePumxbW5DM0W1

u/twinbee · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Thanks, maybe I'll just get something like this then: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Meguiars-D10101-Detailer-Purpose-Cleaner/dp/B0006SH4GE

u/squintychino · 1 pointr/subaru

Spray some of this on them, and I kid you not... the dirt just slides right off.

It. Is. Amazing.

I use it to clean every single thing inside my car, including the weathertechs. And it can be used as an engine detailer.

u/Gregoryv022 · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

What equipment and supplies do you have already? If any.

Off the top of my head here are a few of the basics.

Meguiars D101 APC

Good Wet/Dry Shop Vac.

Stoner Invisible Glass

Adam's Polishes Interior Mitt

The Rag Company Edgeless 300

The Rag Company Glass Towels

Pressure washer or Strong hose spray. (For cleaning Carpets outside of vehicle.)

Bissell Spot Clean Auto

That is more than enough to get you started. Ill add more as I have time.

Let me know if you have any questions.

u/Turdsworth · 1 pointr/cars

I would check with r/autodetailing first, but I think they like automotive specific all purpose cleaner and an interior brush. I use this https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D10101-Detailer-Purpose-Cleaner/dp/B0006SH4GE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1505776624&sr=8-3&keywords=Car+all+purpose+cleaner I don't know if it's the best, but autodetailing recommended it and I got it. It seems to work. You can wet dry vac it out.

u/hippocratic_oaf · 1 pointr/everymanshouldknow

I'm planning to write a post in the interior soon but for now...

The first step is to give everything a really good going over with a vacuum. This is where you need to spend most of your time. Almost everything that's not leather can be cleaned with an All Purpose Cleaner (UK link and US link):
Spray it on, agitate with a brush (ordinary paint brush will do). Then...

If it's fabric - vacuum with a wet-dry vac (use a cloth if you don't have one)
If it's trim - wipe dry with a microfibre (UK link and US link)

To protect things I really like 303 Aerospace Protectant... it protects against fading caused by UV radiation (UK link and US link)

Leather is a different kettle of fish and you need to use a cleaner then a conditioner (UK link and US link)

u/Waitits2015 · 1 pointr/cars

Try cleaning with Invisible Glass and a balled up newspaper. In my experience IG is the best glass cleaner, and the newspaper will clean effectively without leaving lint or streaks. Microfiber cloths (even "lint free" ones) will leave microscopic lint residue that can look like scratches.

I have a '14 Fiesta ST - I've also been around quite a few of them and this is the first I've heard of windshield issues. Could be a defective part, but probably just dirty. Either way Ford has been very good about honoring the warranty. Several of the FiST forums are frequented by Ford service liaisons who are happy to help interface between the owner & dealership - might not be a bad idea to sign up and see if you can get help.

u/boggart2 · 1 pointr/Harley

I use this and microfiber towels.

u/RayzTheRoof · 1 pointr/buildapc

Do you think the cleaner is the issue?

Looking at this:
https://www.amazon.com/Invisible-Glass-Premium-Cleaner-91164/dp/B0007OWD2M

u/pawel_the_barbarian · 1 pointr/CleaningTips

Then try invisible glass

Stoner 91164 Invisible Glass Cleaner - 19 oz. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0007OWD2M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_k4v-Bb94YT8JS

u/PrototypeBeefCannon · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

https://www.amazon.com/Invisible-Glass-Premium-Cleaner-91164/dp/B0007OWD2M
Best thing for glass of any kind, I use it for my tempered glass side panels, my car, and my house windows

u/aznboyknowledge · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Sounds like you are at a good starting point!

  1. Simple Green works as well. Some people on the sub uses Simple Green or Zeps. Make sure to dilute it and you should be good.

  2. A lot of people here prefer Stoner's Invisible Glass. Rain-X should work though.

  3. Sounds like you need two buckets and a grit guard to go with your Meguiar's car wash shampoo. You may also want to invest in some quality microfiber towels. The Rag Company has a good selection with Eagle Edgeless being a very versatile towel.
u/SevenSmallShrimp · 1 pointr/needadvice

I use this stuff and its fantastic, and use shop towels, and clean in a circular motion. I vape so my car windows get dirty really easily in the winter, and this stuff is a life saver.

u/codegr33n · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

SOLUTION

Use this spray and microfiber cloth or a crumpled newspaper if you can't find the cloth when you're grabbing the spray. Cloth and spray should run you under 10$ so don't cheap out ;)


http://www.amazon.com/Stoner-91164-Invisible-Glass-Cleaner/dp/B0007OWD2M

u/MrZipper · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Hi, beginner here. The dash on my '08 Sonata is looking a bit sad and faded (pic here, ignore shadows and camera artifacts), and I was hoping to clean and restore it.

Would a combination of Megs Quick Interior Detailer (which I already have), plus 303 Aerospace work well? I also have Simple Green if that's better, but not sure what dilution ratio would work well. Thanks!

u/jperras · 1 pointr/cars

Sounds (smells?) like they're using an interior detailer, similar to Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer Cleaner.

u/aDDnTN · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

what do you think about Meguiars Quik Interior Detailer? i really don't like glossy/oily surfaces on my interior, unless they are made that way.

how would you compare APC to it, if you have used the Quik?

u/l4ur · 1 pointr/mazda
  • I love clean things and I want to pickup the CX-5 branded all weather floor mats and cargo tray. Is there a better option?

    I have the Weather Tech mats and they're awesome.


  • When cleaning the inside I planned to only use a microfiber cloth and/or a slightly damp with warm water microfiber. Is there a better way?

    I keep a microfiber towel in the glove box for quick wipe downs, but every few weeks or so, I'll use Meguiar's to clean the interior.


  • Are there any accessories I might not know about that are must haves?

    I have a jump starter just in case anything went wrong! Beyond that, hmm... I'm not entirely sure. I have done some light modding to my CX-5, but nothing that are like, "OH MAN, GET THIS!"
u/Crimson13 · 1 pointr/razer

You'd have to open up the mouse, and clean the switch with some contact cleaner spray.

Something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/CRC-05101-QD-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000CCMLD0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1411762940&sr=8-3&keywords=electronic+contact+cleaner

OR if you're skilled with electronics enough you can just replace the switch itself.

Unfortunately it's pretty common for nagas to fail this way. Buddy of mine had it happen to him too.

u/space_reaper · 1 pointr/Vive

If you were to do it, I'd think the linked spray would be what you'd use, NOT WD-40.

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05101-QD-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000CCMLD0

Edit: There are other cleaners as well.

u/BillNyeDeGrasseTyson · 1 pointr/techsupportgore

Electronics cleaner. It's like a less abrasive brake-clean that's still a solvent and meant for use on electronics.

u/DonnieJTrump · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

Buy yourself a can of this stuff and spray the inside of your connectors. You don't need to get it from amazon, walmart and auto parts stores have it. Let it air dry, should only take a couple minutes. Also check to see if all the pins in the connectors are in good shape.

u/artist508 · 1 pointr/airsoft

That points to the motor. You can try hosing it out with Plastic safe contact cleaner to see if there is an improvement but you might need a new motor.

u/Dragonstar914 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Usually a decent sized hardware store should carry that, at least in the US where I live they do. I know this one works perfectly for it that is on Amazon CA.

u/dankhimself · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

QD electric cleaner. That stuff will high pressure blast that stuff out. Toth burshwill help dislodge and mix the paste with it. I love this stuff.

http://www.amazon.com/CRC-05101-QD-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000CCMLD0

u/WardenWolf · 1 pointr/tifu

This stuff should do the job. It's an amazing degreaser, and doesn't leave a mess and won't ruin your flooring. It's entirely clear.

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05101-QD-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000CCMLD0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1479920047&sr=8-2&keywords=electro+contact+cleaner

u/duckfucker69 · 1 pointr/ps2

They have a good selection and reasonable prices. The TTX brand controllers there are pretty good, not quite as nice as the Sony controllers but they worked with my stuff so far if you want new ones instead of used again. Try taking the controller apart though and cleaning it... http://www.instructables.com/id/Clean-Your-DualShock-Controller/?ALLSTEPS be sure to put the R2 L2 buttons back in after assembly and they will work with out having to try multiple times, they just snap back in after cleaning. Sometimes this works.

Edit:
You could also try contact cleaner with the unit unplugged, spay it into the controller port and controller plug http://www.amazon.com/CRC-05101-QD-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000CCMLD0

So Try,
Cleaning controllers, new controller, cleaning ports, and if those all fail, then its then most likely the system but they are pretty robust as others have stated

u/sf_aerial · 1 pointr/Multicopter

If you're not crashing, you're not flying fast enough ;-)

For those of us who crash often into dust/dirt/sand/grass, I recommend the following:

  • Bring a can of compressed air with you when you fly. This will be the first step for removing debris from your mini motors.

  • I REALLY like this plastic-safe electronics cleaner, and it seems to do an excellent job of removing sand [errr, what?] from my motors after I've thoroughly sprayed them out with the compressed air. Most bearings are sealed so you won't need to worry about degrading the bearing lubricant. That being said I try to use as little spray as possible.

    Hope this helps!
u/bushidonixon · 1 pointr/TwinCities

If you want to be fancy with your car scraping, get a regular scraper w/ brush AND one of these units. Nothing clears ice on glass like bronze.

u/jaywalke · 1 pointr/AdviceAnimals

http://www.amazon.com/CJ-Industries-F101-Fantastic-Scraper/dp/B000FW4LT4

Brass, muthafucka. Three dolla somethin'. Order a handful, kick the shit outa winter.

u/ihadisr · 1 pointr/TwinCities

This scraper is how I survive winter. It makes butter out of frost and ice. The brass blade is magic.

u/SaabFan87 · 1 pointr/cars
u/Throwyourtoothbrush · 1 pointr/BlackPeopleTwitter
u/Uncanevale · 1 pointr/AskReddit

http://www.amazon.com/CJ-Industries-F101-Fantastic-Scraper/dp/B000FW4LT4/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

Brass blade. Ice practically wipes off. Next best thing to a heated garage.

u/digiteknique · 1 pointr/DIY

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000FW4LT4/ref=redir_mdp_mobile

Brass works much better than plastic for this.

u/AYfamily · 1 pointr/RepLadies

My Angels Birkin pins also were very tarnished. I used tiny Cape cod polishing cloth and it lightened a bit, but not perfect like my UB’s Kelly pins. Angel’s bags often have tarnished pins unfortunately.

u/B3M3W5 · 1 pointr/rolex

Just this?

https://www.amazon.ca/Cape-Metal-Polishing-Cloths-0-53oz/dp/B0017H3PIO

I’ll just wipe it on the clasp? Anything that can go bad with this?

u/Investinwaffl3s · 1 pointr/Watches

If you are trying to remove smudges/scratches - pick up a high quality microfiber and I honestly use glasses lens cleaner. You need liquid for lubrication so you aren't "rubbing" the surface, but more "buffing" because the liquid is doing all the cleaning/emulsifying. Spray onto the cloth then apply to the watch

Lens cleaner works great for removing oils and such, crystal or metal doesn't seem to matter. Most lens cleaner is designed to be safe for AR coatings

​

After that, you can use some metal polish or polishing cloths to help level the area around the scratch to "remove" the scratch.

https://www.amazon.com/Cape-Cod-Polishing-Cloths-0-53oz/dp/B0017H3PIO

​

Note: that you can't really remove a scratch, but you can level the surrounding area so the scratch doesn't exist any more.

Also be very careful when you are using polishing cloths or compound - you don't want to affect any brushed areas or it will change the finish. I don't have too much issue with that personally, just need to be careful.

​

u/Gariond · 1 pointr/AppleWatch

http://www.amazon.com/Cape-Metal-Polishing-Cloths-0-53oz/dp/B0017H3PIO

These will be your best friends. They're great for mostly everything but the deep deep nicks. Take off your band from the watch, turn off the watch, put on gloves scrub away, rinse. I do it about once a month and mine looks brand new each time.

u/purged363506 · 1 pointr/rolex

It won't take it all the way off but it'll look better if you use a cape cod cloth on it.

Cape Cod Metal Polishing Cloths Foil Pouch 0.53oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017H3PIO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rqAcBbJQQBC9N

Any competent watchmaker could polish that out as well.

As far as too deep.... It all comes down to how much surrounding metal you want to loose. Usually if your fingernail catches good on it, it won't come out unless you really polish the hell out of it.

u/Mammal_Incandenza · 1 pointr/Watches

For the polished bezel - Cape Cod Polishing Cloth...

For the brushed parts, a set of 3M papers...

Nothing will 100% match a factory finish, but those are the easiest things for most people to do at home - and if you’re patient and work slowly/carefully you should get close.

Brushed area is harder to match, so make sure you work somewhere stable and with a steady hand using the 3M papers. One direction only...etc. Hardest part to “freehand” would probably be the circular brushing on the caseback.

u/Norwegian-would · 1 pointr/jewelrymaking

Whoops - I purchased this guy yesterday to try it out: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0017H3PIO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

But if I end up liking it, I will get the full tin, as you say.
I guess what I've been doing when I polish is applying the polishing compound on the cloth disk, and giving up instantly as soon as I see that it is turning my pieces grey and cloudy. I'll give it a bit longer this time. Thanks for your reply! All the best.

u/kaerwyn · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

Some RainX (make sure you use the one specifically for interior glass) and a glass reach tool (here is the one we use and store under the driver's seat) https://smile.amazon.com/Invisible-Glass-Reach-Clean-95161/dp/B0017K69MA/

u/VTvaper · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

I use this guy for everyday wiping. When I feel ambitious I will also use the invisible glass cleaner to really clear it up, but this tool makes it real easy to clear the film. I was doing it every day, but haven't had to in the 1 week after using the glass cleaner.

http://www.amazon.com/Stoner-95161-Invisible-Glass-Reach/dp/B0017K69MA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1422292055&sr=8-4&keywords=invisible+glass

u/PandaSPUR · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

Not a direct solution to your issue, but I bought a little wand made for cleaning glass. I spray invisible glass on it and then just rub away. Doesn't make the spray any more effective but it makes the manual labor part a whole lot less painful and time consuming.

I use this: http://www.amazon.com/Stoner-95161-Invisible-Glass-Reach/dp/B0017K69MA/

Also, while keeping the window all the way open isn't always an option, I sometimes just roll it down an inch. Aerodynamics of the car seem to just pull the vapor right out that little crack when I'm actually moving. And not much cold air gets in (not enough to overpower my heat anyway).

Another hopefully helpful fact: the heat in our car works by blowing air over a coil that your engine coolant flows through. Feel free to blast the heat and have it intake outside air. Outside air is dry and all you're really doing is keeping your engine cooler.

u/MisterEarl · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Have you tried something like this?

u/anstormning · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Hello! I bought a new car a little over a month ago and I wanted to do some basic cleaning with it, stuff that can be done maybe a couple times a month, since I never personally did that with my previous car.

Anyways, I live in SoCal so I'm trying to keep water usage to a minimum. This is my current "to-purchase" list that I'd like to buy soon;

ONR

iK Sprayer

Iron X

TRC Creature Edgeless 10pack

Mother's Tire Brush

ABN Wheel Woolies

Stoner's Reach Tool

Already have: Stoner's Invisible Glass, Costco multipack MF towels.

Will I still want to get a clay bar + wax for after washing, or is just washing every so often enough?

u/Anreill · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

I bought one of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017K69MA specifically because of the film in my car.

Of course, I haven't had to use it because while I was waiting for it to show up my windshield got busted and replaced. The film is definitely annoying though. Comes off fairly easily with Windex and a paper towel though. Just ordered the brush to make it more convenient because I have a Focus ST and reaching the windshield is a pain.

u/vapid_eyes · 1 pointr/LifeProTips

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0017K69MA

I got mine from a local auto zone. Definitely worth every cent.

u/topdroppy · 1 pointr/frugalmalefashion

I'd recommend this if you don't want your leather to darken.

Bickmore Bick 4 Leather Conditioner 8 Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CS2Q4M/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_OJ4Utb0SRK0SYSYE

u/gintastic · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Do you mean this stuff?

http://www.amazon.com/Bickmore-Bick-Leather-Conditioner-Ounces/dp/B001CS2Q4M

How do you recommend using it? Should I just rub it in?

u/Alreadythrownout0 · 1 pointr/NavyBlazer

I've used bick4 for a lot of years. I use it on everything from boots that step on shit in a pasture, to my high end lucchese boots.

u/EESlug · 1 pointr/goodyearwelt

Thanks again, I'll probably head down to a shoe store and try to match colors like you said.

One last question, is something like Bick 4 Leather conditioner better or worse than Lexol leather conditioner?

u/IamLeven · 1 pointr/goodyearwelt

This?What is the difference?

u/akaxd123 · 1 pointr/BuyItForLife

Never heard of Skidmores before
Is it better to use than Bick4?

u/atgd712 · 1 pointr/RepLadies

I love this one! I’ve used it on light, dark, and textured leather and it has never darkened the color or left residue for me.

u/analoguekitty · 1 pointr/RepLadies

I’ve used a couple (from Lexol to Turtle Wax), but right now I really like this one! It also helps with developing a faux patina if you don’t like how light the vachetta appears at first.

u/MrTwerk247 · 1 pointr/Leathercraft

I got this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CS2Q4M/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

but yeh my wallet is soft, but it isn't greasy, just a bit shiny. Idk.

u/TechIsCool · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

So this one?

https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-155700-Wheel-Brush/dp/B001GJ3DZS
https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-Detail-Brush-Set-Pack/dp/B001GJ3EJS

and this

https://www.amazon.com/Omega-17181616-Speed-Master-Wheel/dp/B00E9E76F0

Why do you like this one better than say

https://www.amazon.com/EZ-Detail-3001-BP-Brush-Mini/dp/B007UTN60K

I know its almost always just what someone has or bought but figured I would ask. Thanks for the recommendations.

u/awedaniel · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

I used sonax and this brush http://www.amazon.com/Mothers-155700-Wheel-Brush/dp/B001GJ3DZS.

Then I finished up with a chenille wash mitt. That's seems to work for me.

I need to invest in a better brush for the barrels, don't have anything for that yet.

u/nickstewartroc · 1 pointr/FiestaST

This is what I currently use for the tires themselves: https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-155700-Wheel-Brush/dp/B001GJ3DZS
As for the rims, a good cleaner like Sonax can really help, but other than that, I just use some cheap microfibers to wipe em' down

u/Dr_Pippin · 1 pointr/teslamotors

Sure thing! $18 on Amazon. Here you go:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DKC6IY6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MWRaBbN5EZXP7

And I used Meguiar’s Gold Class soap, $10 for a gallon at Advance Auto. And I picked up four (2 2-packs) of these in X-Large size (having 4 is nice because you clean one section of the car with one, then grab a brand new one for the next section of car, no rinsing required):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011B25IXY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_iYRaBb1CG00GR

And lastly, a 9-pack of these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S1U5TWA?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Oh, and a wheel brush:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001GJ3DZS?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

u/elduderino1234 · -1 pointsr/howto

Let your tools do the work for you. If you have a cordless drill, get this: Chemical Guys ACC_201_BRUSH_MD Medium Duty Carpet Brush with Drill Attachment, Yellow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TU662Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1B0yxbEF7MHVE

u/HeezyB · -1 pointsr/Surface

Paper is a fabric too, why not compare it?

> good luck getting it fully out without damaging your device.

This is where you're wrong, an alcantara cleaner can easily clean stains/dirt (read the reviews, people even mention cleaning their SP4 alcantara keyboards effectively which isn't coated like the surface laptop).

u/piemaster316 · -2 pointsr/gaming

I'll look at the product tomorrow morning and post a link to it or something. I have used it several times on my car and it's done an amazing job of just clearing small scratches away. As long as it's not a deep scratch it usually covers it up really well. I do know what I'm talking about, like I've said I've used it a few times and have had good results.

Edit: decided to just go ahead and Google it real quick. Here's a link to the product. Look at the comments, in some people post pictures. Don't have to get all rude before you even attempt to look for anything.