Best car cleaners according to redditors
We found 466 Reddit comments discussing the best car cleaners. We ranked the 88 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 466 Reddit comments discussing the best car cleaners. We ranked the 88 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Like everyone's saying, they're a bad idea because they don't provide adequate lubrication and don't have the softness and physical structure that microfiber has to prevent scratches. It'll more than likely scratch the hell out of your paint.
 
A little more detail (heh) for how to do apartment washes:
Buy a gallon or two gallon pump sprayer and some Optimum No Rinse (ONR).
 
EDIT: Use the sprayer to replace the hose, or else grab a Big Red Sponge(not generic sponges) and perform the BRS wash, or the Gary Dean method(substituting ONR for the products he uses). Thanks to /u/defected for pointing it out.
ONR
2008 BMW Z4M Coupe
I can't believe I haven't posted in so long. This job is back from February.
I performed my Maintenance Package on this 2008 BMW Z4M for a client. This client emailed me about wanting a maintenance Detail on their vehicle. I informed them that this package is usually reserved for previous clients because of the cleanliness requirements (clayed vehicle). I figured worse case scenario I'd bring everything if it's too dirty and needs more stuff.
Products Used:
Wash
Wheels
Decontamination
Interior
Engine Bay
Notes
This was an eye opening experience for me about cleaning a clean car. I learned that it's difficult to make a clean car even cleaner and really focuses you as a detailer to focus on details more than the big picture.
Price: $155
Time: 3.5 Hours
Thank you for your business!
Iron x - http://www.amazon.com/Carpro-Iron-Remover-500-Ml/dp/B004UM6DLE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407107216&sr=8-1&keywords=iron+x
I think it’s a pretty affordable way to maintain your car. I use the Optimum ONR - No Rinse Wash
And some basic supplies
I can provide a full list of anyone interested.
Tons of videos online to help you along.
Link for anyone looking. Can confirm this stuff is awesome. I like that it allows me to wash my car in the garage out of the sun. It can also be mixed stronger to make a quick detailer.
This was my first attempt at engine detailing and I think it went pretty well! I covered some of the electrical components (alternator, battery terminals, etc) and proceeded with the typical spray down of water, followed by a good misting of APC, followed by agitation with a Solo Horton brush, and rounded out with another misting of water. I finished the process by drying the engine bay with a leaf blower and a coating of 303 Aerospace Protectant. Looks good to me!
Products Used:
First of all, do NOT submerge the hard drive or even soak it because it is not airtight or watertight but has some tiny holes that can let in liquids. Keep the hard drive and any optical drives dry, and just wipe off their exteriors with a damp paper towel.
To clean the case and electronics, you can use
aerosol electronic parts cleaner that's rated as safe for all plastics, something like THIS (available at hardware stores, auto parts stores, and even Walmart). Do not use other chemicals, like brake parts cleaner, which can dissolve plastics. Hold circuit boards and even the case at slight angles so the liquid will run off and not pool. Spray into the sockets -- DIMMs, PCI-E, USB. Let everything dry very, very thoroughly before applying power again, at least 24 hours. A car parked in the sun with the windows only slightly opened can bake everything at over 100-120 degrees F. Take precautions against generating static electricity, i.e., put the motherboard into a metallic bag (not on it -- those bags are usually anti-static only inside), but to let moisture escape, don't seal it.
https://smile.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO?sa-no-redirect=1
I haven't tried it but have been considering it. Basically it means in the winter you can wash your car safely ensconced in your garage with no hose. You mix it up, wet some towels or wash mitt, scrub the car and then just dry it with microfiber towels. Also useful for apartment dwellers with no hose access. You would probably only want to use it on a dusty / slightly dirty car though.
I've posted my list before:
Car Wash Shampoo: Chemical Guys Maxi Suds II Amazon link
Quick Detailer: Chemical Guys High Gloss Spray Sealant & Quick Detailer Amazon Link
Wax/Sealant (every 6 months): Blackfire Pro Paint Protection (previously Blackfire Wet Diamond All Paint Protection) Amazon Link
Clay Bar (every 12 months): Simoniz S57 Perfect Finish Detailing Clay Amazon Link
Clear Plastics (head/tail lights): Plexus Plastic Cleaner & Protectant Amazon Link
Plastic/Vinyl/Rubber/Leather: 303 Aerospace Protectant Amazon Link
Door/Trunk/Frunk Seals: 303 (above) or Nextzett Gummi Pflege Rubber Conditioner Amazon Link
Glass: Stoner Invisible Glass Amazon Link
Wheels: Griot's Garage Wheel Cleaner Amazon Link
Tires: Aero Low Shine Rubber Care Amazon Link
Only hand wash, all the time, lovingly, with microfiber everything. It's going to be your new hobby, and on a car this size, takes less time than you would think to do it right.
Here is my amazon list, a lot of stuff has subscribe and save deals, everything Chemical Guys has been top notch.
http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-MIC_493-Microfiber-Scratch-Free/dp/B003TTL0TE/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225930&sr=8-10&keywords=chemical+guys
http://www.amazon.com/303-30520-Convertible-Fabric-Cleaning/dp/B000A8JNF0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226066&sr=8-1&keywords=303+aerospace+protectant+convertible
http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-MIC_506_12-Professional-Microfiber/dp/B00A8MZ7IA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225930&sr=8-3&keywords=chemical+guys
http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-CWS_301-Citrus-Concentrated/dp/B004K9KETY/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225930&sr=8-6&keywords=chemical+guys
http://www.amazon.com/Collinite-Liquid-Insulator-Wax-845/dp/B000JK2D06/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225985&sr=8-1&keywords=collinite+insulator+wax OR http://www.amazon.com/Collinite-No-Super-Doublecoat-Auto/dp/B000AP8DZY/ref=pd_sbs_263_5?ie=UTF8&dpID=51Nde%2B7iakL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0KRY8VA4QS2RZE3XG1R5
http://www.amazon.com/Viking-862400-Blue-Microfiber-Applicator/dp/B0051MYL8E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226014&sr=8-2&keywords=microfiber+applicator
http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-TVD_109_16-Sprayable-Dressing/dp/B001TI1F5Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226032&sr=8-3&keywords=chemical+guys+tire+shine
http://www.amazon.com/Mothers-155700-Wheel-Brush/dp/B001GJ3DZS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226178&sr=8-1&keywords=tire+brush
Like djdish said, spray some apc then scrub it with a brush
Also, I would never use tire gel on my tires as they make the surface really slick, slippery, and resistant to water which is a bad thing on a bike, even on the sidewalls of the tire.
Kinda.
So the rubber compound in tires are supposed to brown, it just naturally does + brake dust, so it's more of a fight.
I do this:
This bootleg of a more expensive brush
Optimum Power Clean:
A ton of below grease and CarPro Perl
This works for about 2-3 months unless it's really warm and rains.
It’s a product called Forever Black
Forever Black Bumper & Trim Kit (NEW Improved Formula & Larger Size) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FAYLPZK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_837HDbW92PEFP
Okay. First off, I'm a newb so take my advice with a grain of salt.
Basic detailing goes like this
You can google / youtube for detailed instructions on each step.
I use a Porter Cable for application / removal
For polishing, it can be a multiple levels of polish. Think of polish as a really fine sand paper in a liquid. Wipe immediately any that you get on plastic / rubber.
They make different applicator pads and compound for different levels.
They make buff pads for removing wax
For black plastic /rubber you can use [Mother's Back to Black](http://www.amazon.com/MOTHERS-6112--Black-
Plastic-Restorer/dp/B00GZLMEN4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417395899&sr=8-2&keywords=back+to+black)
Buy a shitload of microfiber towels.
You can get 99% of what you need at Autozone. Once you start getting professional, then maybe you need to go online to get the good stuff. I don't know.
What you can do is experiment. Wash / Dry / Clay only the hood. Then use painter's tape and divide the hood into four sections. Experiment with the different levels of polish in each quadrant so you can see the different. Experiment with different application removal styles etc until you're happy with the results then repeat on the whole car.
Because these are synthetics, you can use a non-rise all-purpose cleaner like this one.
Also, I think durability is why we don't have the perforated, vented seats anymore.
Use a soft microfiber towel, light pressure and, automotive detail spray.
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-A3332-Quik-Detailer-Mist/dp/B0009IQXAE/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1484522811&sr=1-1&keywords=meguiars+detail+spray
It's specifically designed to remove the oils from fingerprints and, light amounts of dirt/grease from delicate (painted) surfaces. It's PH neutral too so, it's 100% safe for the body of your laptop and, the screen. I've used the stuff for my Macbooks (with sensitive anti-glare coatings), Alienware systems (with rubberized palm rests) and, TV screens or other electronic equipment for over a decade. Don't buy anything with wax.
I dunno the science behind it, but I'm pretty sure it loosens the soap/grime easier. It also has a better "barrier", kind of like a lubricant, less contact of your pad/brush/etc on the paint, so there isnt a potential of swirls.
I dunno, its just fun!!
I used Chemical Guys Honeydew Snow Foam
Rag Company Starter Kit - $30 - Includes wash mitt and other assorted towels needed to get started.
2 buckets from Home Depot - $6
2 Grit Guards - $18
Megs Gold Class Soap - $9
Megs Gold Class Carnauba - $11
einszett Cockpit Premium - $10
Stoner Invisible Glass Cleaner - $4
Chemical Guy's APC - $10
Optibond Tire Gel - $11
Grand Total of $109
There are obviously some nicer products you could get, but this is a great start for a beginner I think.
Hey electronics guy checking in - it might work again if you spray it down with connector cleaner, and let it air dry on some paper towel. Just be careful not to zap it with static - always touch something grounded to get rid of any static you might have built up before handling the board. When reassembling the ECU, you could try to seal it with some silicone perhaps.
edit: here's some of the stuff.
http://www.amazon.com/CRC-05101-QD-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000CCMLD0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405784618&sr=8-1&keywords=electrical+cleaner
The dirt and residue that is on the board at the moment can create weak electrical pathways, essentially rewiring the board in a way. It can cause things to done behave has intended. Those are all old school components, which while a bit dated, are usually quite rugged. Give 'em a wash! You can also use rubbing alcohol and a soft toothbrush.
https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05101-QD-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000CCMLD0
WARNING: The post above is full of referral links.
Here's a copy with all of OP's referral links removed:
CART
PRODUCTS
EQUIPMENT
I use Various Combinations of the following for my Dirt and Street bikes.
Cargo Bull Rings for the Bed
Ratchet Straps
Mult-gift set of a grit guard, large waffle-weave micofiber towel, and 1) some 2) good 3) soap
Stubby antenna because the stock one makes the truck look like an RC car
An actual RC Colorado ZR2
You can wash it yourself using one 2 gallon bucket with 2 ounces of optimum no rinse and shine and some microfiber towels. Much cheaper, easy to do in a parking lot and environmentally friendly.
Yeah man, just get this soap:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D8DR0AO/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687742&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00BFUG3EG&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1FGAFWY38XX36YQ8464A
I have that for my car.. Get a bucket (or two buckets if you want to use the two-bucket system), a microfiber mitt and a towel, and go to town out on the sidewalk. Soap is biodegradable if any run off happens.
I got the gallon bottle of soap, and it's lasted me for over 2 years and I'm only about a third of the way through it. All it takes is a cap full for every gallon or two.
This is more like a dye from what I understand and it's held up for 3 years now on two different vehicles.
Highly recommend
forever black
I don't recommend a car wash at all, but do not use a car wash that touches the car. I summarized so just ask if you want more details.
Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine - https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00D8DR0AO/
And here is a how to video - https://youtu.be/Pwki2c21pBw
Ditch the Shamois and get a microfiber drying towel, like a waffle weave texture. Huge difference.
For hard water, try adding a cap full of Optimum No Rinse Wash and Shine to your bucket of soap. If helps soften the water. https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO/
When you dry, add a single spray of a quick detailer or instant wax to each panel, and use that as a drying aid. Helps a lot.
I'd also recommend to dry as much as you can first with an air compressor or leaf blower, just remove as much water as possible first before you get it with a towel.
Optimum No Rinse
Check out Optimum No Rinse. As long as you don't have caked on dirt it'll really serve you well with keeping the exterior clean.
https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO
I've never heard of ONR, is this the kind of thing you use?
https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO
Would you recommend it? Thanks!
OK, you have a ton of questions in there, let's try to sort it out.
First off, you need to assess the paint, and not just assume you need to do all the steps you mentioned (and some you didn't mention). If the car is new, you probably won't need to clay it, as the paint is probably 'clean'. Here is how you figure out if it is clean. After it is washed, i.e. all of the loose, surface dirt is gone, simply gently rub the paint, especially on a horizontal surface like the hood. You can do this while it is wet. How does it feel? Clean paint feels soft and smooth and makes no noise when you rub it. Dirty paint feels rough, hard and makes a 'swishing' sound when you rub it. If you hear anything, it needs to be clayed. Most clays are very similar, so there is very little difference in any of them. They all do the same job about the same. Also, as to your twice a year question, it all depends on the condition of your paint. I wash my car often, so stuff doesn't get embedded in it, so I don't need to clay my car (its been over a year).
You see, paint is like skin. It has pores, and when it gets dirty and is not washed, contaminants (dirt, fallout, metallic flakes, etc) clog the pores and it loses its shine and that's when it needs to be clayed. The clay removes those embedded contaminants.
As for the wash: any good car wash soap will do. It's not rocket science. As long as it says car wash, you're good. ONR is a good alternative once you have protected the paint and it needs a very light wash, or it doesn't have much dirt or grime on it, but you want it cleaned. It is a whole process to clean your car via ONR, but get some, its good stuff. It is also good for interiors, windows, lube for claying your paint, etc. It is concentrated, so you can dilute it how you want.
Wax vs. sealant. Yes, this is confusing. To simplify: sealant is just man made wax. Wax is good stuff, but since it is a natural product (secreted by Brazilian Palm trees), it doesn't last very long (two months is great for wax to still be effective). Sealant simply does the same thing as wax, but can give you up to 8-9 months of UV protection, water beading, etc.
As for layering protection on, it's not really worth it, IMO. Is it worth it to wear two condoms? Not really. Just use the best stuff you have (best as in easiest to lay on, take off and looks good, and lasts a long time) which is personal preference. To continue, if you are going to layer, you want to put the longest lasting product on first. it would't make sense to put on a spray wax that will last a couple weeks, then sealant on top of it. The sealant is bonding with the spray wax, not the paint itself, so it will come right off. How often? As often as you want to. When it doesn't seem like you have the protection, cover it back up. Should you strip old stuff off? Only if you want to, but most products enjoy layering on top of itself (i.e. a couple of applications of the same stuff a few months apart).
Do you need a pressure washer/foam cannon, etc? Not necessary, (again this is just my opinion, but I do this for a living) but if you want to spring for it, a pressure washer makes cleaning easier. I think foam cannons are a waste of time and money. They're fun and look cool, but don't do much that a good, proper pressure washing couldn't do. To answer your last question, No, you still need to do a contact wash. A protected car should only require a light wash with suds and MF towel or mitt or whatever. If you just rinse, foam and rinse, you'll be disappointed, because it will still have dirt on it.
I'm happy to share more of my opinions, on processes, products or whatever. Answering questions is what this sub is for!
​
Go to Amazon and order this (I like Meg's products),
This should run you about $345 for everything and have you setup to take care of your car for a long time. You can find a 20% discount code online for harbor freight to bring the price down $55 for the DA. Go to home depot and buy a couple buckets and you will be good to go.
Edit: To add, I went to Lowes and bought a cheap inline sprayer for my hose and it works fine for foaming up the vehicle, plus it only costs $5.
Edit2: If you are going to downvote me please post why you don't like my recommendation.
The water out of the evaporator drain hose is normal.
Something like this can help reduce the smell https://www.amazon.com/Lubegard-96030-Evaporator-Heater-Cleaner/dp/B0007PHD0S
Also if your car has a cabin air filter, check it and change it if needed.
I'll give my /r/AutoDetailing inspired rundown. I live in an apartment so a lot of this is extra hassle if you have access to water.
2 Bucket (apartment) Method Wash
My personal favorite wax is Collonite #845. I also like Griot's Best in Show since it can be found in big box stores locally.
I would also recommend a paint protection such as Cquartz as extra protection against winters and daily driving.
The absolute #1 rule to keeping your car swirl free, NEVER USE AUTOMATIC CAR WASHES.
What is your opinion of Meguiar's products?
I've been using their shampoo and quick detailer on my white car since I got it about 4 months ago. I don't know much about auto detailing, but I planned on using those two to keep the car clean until I learn more or decide to take it to a professional detailer.
If you're looking to do a long term value purchase, here's a great setup I can recommend! You may even already have some of these products reducing from the investment cost!
Electric Pressure Washer - $89
Snow Foam Cannon Attachment - $17.88
Shammy / Chamois Towel of Your Choice* - $8.25
Shammy / Chamois help you remove the water off a car so you can go ahead and start waxing once its dry.
1 Gallon of Snow Foam - $29.99
22 Oz Spray Wax Bottle - $12.99
Any pack of microfiber towels, spray like 2 sprays of wax on the microfiber, wipe around, take another microfiber to wipe away wax. $4
1 Gallon Acid / Non-Acid Based Wheel Cleaner (This one is acidic) - $18.99
Dilute the wheel cleaner, spray on the wheels and tires, let it sit for a little bit, then pressure wash off.
Add a clay bar if you want to get embedded dirt / brake dust off your paint! It's easy to do, costs a little, but the results are worth it.
THESE ARE MOSTLY PREMIUM CLEANING PRODUCTS! You can cut a few dollars off by going with more generic products. Why go with Gallons? You dilute all of these (except wax of course), so they will last you a looooooooooooooooong time if used correctly.
The investment is worth it if you ask me, instead of going through your local 1 minute wash for $10 or whatever, you can do a more thorough job yourself!
Total: $74.79
This kills the budget:
__
You could get away with using car wash soap for cleaning the wheels as long as your wheels aren't terrible. There's no point in getting a polisher if your paint is fine. You could get a wax instead of a sealant and that could save you money.
honestly, i wouldn't get either of those. yeah they're both good, but you really don't need all of that.
what i use:
griot's garage clay
meguairs soap
mothers cleaner wax
nu finish
and of course a (or a couple) 5 gallon buckets with a grit guard , which is completely not necessary, but highly recommended by professional detailers. i don't use one, and my car comes out fine. and a good, soft wash mitt. either a good sponge or a wheel brush for your wheels would be needed as well.
my once a year routine is as follows:
wash, claybar, nu polish, cleaner wax
usually wash every 2 weeks or so, and rewax every 6 weeks or so. if i did a bunch of off roading and the paint is gritty i'll clay as needed, but usually it's once a year.
also head over to /r/autodetailing for a lot of tips. beware though that they use a lot of very high end products, and circle jerk over polishing and getting perfect reflections. if all you're looking to do is keeping your paint in good condition, then what i do is just fine. if you're interested in keeping your paint better than factory, follow them.
Rain X, always
A gallon of car wash soap to last you a few years: https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-CWS_301-Citrus-Concentrated/dp/B004K9KETY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1509988980&sr=8-3&keywords=chemical+guys+wash+and+gloss
A gallon of spray wax to last you a few years:
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D15601-Synthetic-X-Press-Spray/dp/B005JPJMI2
Gallon of leather cleaner: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D18001-Leather-Cleaner-Conditioner/dp/B0006SH4PU
A 36-pack of microfiber towels to last you maybe a year.. depending on how many kids you're carrying (is it bad I assume you're carring kids in this daycare limosine?) , keep all towels separate for duty: https://www.amazon.com/Kirkland-Signature-Premium-Microfiber-36-Pack/dp/B00GARQKII/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1509988902&sr=8-1&keywords=kirkland+microfiber
Gallon sized products are the way to go for general cleaning. Glass cleaner concentrates that dilute 10:1, Wheel cleaners (dilute), all purpose cleaners (dilute), Leather cleaners, spray waxes, etc.
Maintenance:
Buy a 5 or 10 pack of oil filters on amazon. Also funnel, oil rags, and every type of oil filter wrench.
Buy full synthetic oil at walmart or on amazon.
Install a fumoto oil drain valve for easy oil changes.
Rhino ramps to drive up on.
I've always struggled to keep my vehicles clean because 1) they were always old, 2) I've lived in condos, 3) car washes did a terrible job / detailers charged too much, and 4) I didn't realize you could do all of this yourself pretty effectively.
When I bought a new truck at the beginnging of the year, I randomly stumbled upon an Ammo NYC video and the nerd / clean-freak was intrigued. A couple dozen videos later, and I was hooked. Shout out to Larry for your passion - thank you for the insane amount of information on your channel. (Wish I could afford all of your products, or that you had some of them on Amazon!).
Living in a condo, I have to swing by my local coin wash and take up a bay with a few buckets during off-peak hours, but I've gotten it down to 1.5 hours and looking like this every time.
I've only been doing this for a few months, but thought I'd share the products I've researched and selected based on reviews and costs. Hope this helps save someone time!
TOOLS
BUCKETS
CHEMICALS
INTERIOR
WHEELS
TOWELS
This is the best product I've used for cleaning brake dust from wheels.
I use the two bucket method and Optimum No-Rinse(ONR). It does a fantastic job, doesn't scratch, doesn't pull the wax off.
Of course, if your car is really gritty make sure to go and power-wash it at Lynn's first. Just go in, and do a quick and dirty there for $5 and then finish up at home with ONR and take your time.
Make sure you have a grit guard installed in your rinse bucket and use a good quality wash mitt and plenty of microfiber towels.
Optimum No Rinse is highly recommended. Use 4 capfuls in about 4 gallons of water in a 5 gallon bucket, wash mitt, and drying towels. Takes about 15-30 minutes to do an average sized car.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VNOrxWHr32Y
https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO
Been going back and forth on the coating. I did watch some youtube before started and did the two bucket method. From my research it looks like if you just wax it every 3-4 months it should have near the same protection as ceramic. I do have the stuff to diy cermaic coating saved in my Amazon cart though. Was thinking about giving it a go.
Used this wash and wax from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D8DR0AO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001O7PNS2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You could probably get results that approach professional work like this using a couple machines in conjunction. Obviously pro's tools are going to get things that just won't come out otherwise... but time and determination tends to make up most of the gap.
>Steam cleaner: http://www.amazon.com/HomeRight-C800880-SteamMachine-Cleaning-Wallpaper/dp/B00A1B4B58/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1395695083&sr=8-6&keywords=Wagner+steamer
-- Plus --
>Carpet/Upholstery shampoo extractor vacuum: http://www.amazon.com/BISSELL-ProHeat-Compact-Multi-Purpose-14259/dp/B002KCMH6Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395695238&sr=8-1&keywords=Bissel+little+green+machine
I'd probably start with the steam to help loosen the really gnarly spots/stains and move on to the extractor to pull all the gunk out.
Combine that with some good upholstery shampoo and some strong degreaser and some elbow grease with a semi-stiff brush and you could get anything out of your interior.
How to: Clean, Polish, and Protect Exhaust tips
Note: Please check what kind of metal your exhaust tips are before choosing a metal polish.
This process is a lot easier than you think. A clean and polished exhaust piece really adds a bit of pop to the car. Regular upkeep will keep future cleanings much easier as always!
Chemical Guy's All Clean +
Jr. Speedmaster Brush
0000 Steel Wool can be found OTC
Britemax Easy Cut
Britemax Final Shine
Optimum 20499 Power Clean, 17. Fluid_Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BFUG64I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hWMxDb66HDFA0
Razor blade and then this stuff cleaned up the sticky residue like a dream.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BFUG64I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UAHqDbE9B7AAJ
You can get this today with prime. They make a sealant too. My motorcycle is matte and will probably just use their matte sealant. I've never found it necessary to use a dedicated matte soap.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BUFWN5E/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1457706985&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=chemical+guys+matte+soap&dpPl=1&dpID=41a7viP7s6L&ref=plSrch
This a a copy reply to a post from yesterday with pretty much the same question. This should help. YouTube the "Garry Dean Wash method" and do it that way.
___
Look into towels from The rag Company the [Eagle Edgeless] (https://www.amazon.com/RAG-COMPANY-Professional-Microfiber-Detailing/dp/B00GXRG64I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465578999&sr=8-1&keywords=rag+company) , [platinum pluffle] (https://www.amazon.com/RAG-COMPANY-Professional-Microfiber-Detailing/dp/B01691FHKQ/ref=pd_sim_263_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=51ZnYnkDerL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=T72HWKSGJSNY28KCRR5N) and the [creature edgless] (https://www.amazon.com/RAG-COMPANY-Professional-Dual-Pile-Microfiber/dp/B01CW21D9U/ref=pd_sim_263_23?ie=UTF8&dpID=61mdEodibyL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=4930TCHKYCSNPB5QDMAF) are my favorite. They are just better quality then CG towels and are perfect for using the "Garry Dean" wash method which is good for apartment dwellers.
EDIT: Also look into [WolfGang Uber] (https://www.amazon.com/Wolfgang-WG-3700-Uber-Rinse-less/dp/B017KSJ5ZK/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1465579171&sr=1-1&keywords=wolfgang+uber) rinseless wash. Its more costlier but WELL WORTH it to me. I just got a gallon of it from their website. I use it for my business on some customers vehicles and they notice when I do. Its by far my favorite rinseless out there that I have used. I have tried numerous different ones. [ONRWW] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GG9FB8U/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465708329&sr=sr-1&keywords=optimum+no+rinse+wash+%26+wax) is good, don't get me wrong but I've had it streak and [ONR] (https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1465708329&sr=8-2&keywords=optimum+no+rinse+wash+%26+wax) stains my wash media. I've never had a single issue with WG Uber and it smells like cherry candy. I feel like drinking the bottle every time I use it which makes it great to work with.
Here you go!
I love Larry's videos from AMMO NYC & DRIVE Clean and have always followed his recommendations for detailing/washing.
Chemical Guys Microfiber Applicators
Griots Garage Microfiber Speed Shine Cloth
Royal Auto Shop & Car wash towels 36 pack
Gummi Pflege Stift
Shurhold Buff Magic Compounding Pad 2 pack
Yacoto Microfiber Chenille Wash Mitt 2 pack
303 Fabric Guard
Invisible Glass 32 Oz - 6 pack
Griots Garage Microfiber and Foam Pad Cleaner
Chemical Guys Foam Cannon and Honeydew cleaner
Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine 32 oz
Mothers Clay Bar Kit
Sonax Wheel Cleaner Full Effect 169 oz
Griots Garage Microfiber Drying Towel
303 Stain Guard
303 Speed Detailer
Detailer's Choice Leather Chamois
Natural Boar Hair Detail Brush Pack
303 Spray Wax
MATCC 5Pcs White Flannelette Polishing Wheel Cone-Shaped Wheel Grinding Head
Chemical Guys Premium Microfiber Applicators
It doesn't take much at all to scratch a car. I'll leave it to others more experienced in paint correction to address your scratches, but in the future, know that even in the city you have safe self-wash options. Enter Optimum No Rinse Wash (often abbreviated as ONR on these threads).
Get yourself two five gallon buckets at Home Depot. Buy ONR, some microfibers, and a grit guard or two. Google Optimum No Rinse Wash and watch some two bucket method videos. You can fill the buckets in your apartment and head out and clean the car in a parking spot. You will soon get over your neighbors looking at you like you're nuts cleaning the car without a hose in a lot, because you'll always have the cleanest car around.
Start with that and stick around here and you'll find a lot more tips from people in your same situation.
Optimum (NR2010Q) No Rinse Wash & Shine - 32 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D8DR0AO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yeCszbABCFF5T
Optimum no rinse - https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO
I totally get what you mean. For bird poop removal I use ONR diluted to 2oz to a gallon in a spray bottle. Or just do a regular wash and when the mf towel touches the poop I put it in the dirty towel bucket and grab a new one.
For claying I use ONR diluted the same as before and what ever clay I have on hand most of the time it is the meguiars you can buy at the auto store.
For regular soap I use Adam's car shampoo (the blue one) I love this stuff in a bucket or foamer it works amazing for both.
Interior I mostly use onr in what ever dilution I have the most of at that time.
For cleaning glass I use the method Larry for AmmoNYC uses. Invisible glass works wonders for me but if it does not work for you don't be afraid to try other products. fine tuning your process will be trial and error of new products.
If you don't have a bottle of ONR already I would pick one up I use it every time I detail vehicle. You can find it on amazon here
https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=onr&qid=1569990842&sr=8-1
But the biggest tip I can give anyone that is starting out is to drink water during detailing.
Hope this helps.
Looks great! I've been using [Optimum No Rinse] (https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1526843835&sr=1-1&keywords=onr) and am very happy with it. Saw it on this [Like Tesla] (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ANVHPOL-rI) video.
For washing the non-greasy parts, I use a diluted solution of Optimum No Rinse (aka ONR, link here) and it works well. I use a waffle-weave microfiber and a bucket of water along with a spray bottle of ONR.
For windows, microfiber cloth plus Plexus or Clear View acrylic cleaner. Agree with what's stated below about don't drop your microfiber.
I am a fan of Optimum no rinse wash and use their tire shine and spray wax.
No rinse wash
I have found that Optimum works really well. Also, the last coat works really, really well for me.
DipYourCar Dip Dissolver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EKS5FJO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NID3DbGGH6NMF
Grab some of this for your faded exterior trim, it’ll make the car look younger and really pop that paint color
You can use products like back to black on trim pieces
Mothers Back-to-Black
Lubegard 96030 Kool-It Evaporator and Heater Foam Cleaner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007PHD0S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mLiHDb239H1J7
For my rarer waxings, i use McGuires Cleaner Wax with a radial buffer. However, for just week to week touch ups I use McGuires Quick Detailer ( http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Quik-Detailer-Mist-Spray/dp/B0009IQXAE) which basically keeps the paint clean and shiny in between washes and waxes, and it smells kinda nice.
Edit: with that said, you could really ONLY use quick detailer spray in lieu of waxing, it would more or less give you the same effect from a visual stand point (but in the long run may not not protect the clear coat as well).
I'm not an expert by any means, but from /r/AutoDetailing I ended up getting this: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G7164-Class-Shampoo-Conditioner/dp/B0009IQXFO
I just rinse the car down, mix that together in a bucket, use a microfiber mitt to apply it, then rinse it off and dry with a microfiber towel. I'm sure there are better/more specific products you could buy, though. Check /r/AutoDetailing for more.
I apologize in advance for this long post. None of these are "must gets", but they are what I got for my 2016 Premium forester. I'm posting this for my own future reference as well as to help some people who are wondering what accessories might be good for their new forester. I highly recommend ordering from Jackie from Annapolis Subaru @ 443-837-1422 as she can get you some good prices on the subaru accessories as well as WeatherTech products! I saved on WeatherTech shipping costs (~$20) by ordering through Jackie and the warranty is the same as if I had bought them through their website.
Please note that some of these accessory links are for my specific car year, model and configuration. I have a 2016 Premium forester without eyesight (affects the Covercraft/heatshield sunshade - they also have eyesight compatible sunshades!).
Also, I personally didn't get my windows tinted, but I think that is something that you should seriously consider doing :)
Speaker kit
Tweeter kit
WeatherTech DigitalFit floorliner (1st & 2nd row)
WeatherTech cargo/trunk liner (without bumper protector)
Weather Tech TechCare floorliner and floormat Cleaner/Protector Kit
Gorilla mud flaps
Covercraft's UVS100 sunscreen - use promo code FREESHIP
Exterior Auto Dimming Mirror w/ Approach Lighting
Luggage Compartment Cover (manual rear gate)
Rear bumper cover
Auto-Dimming Mirror with Compass and HomeLink
Rear Seat Back Protector
Two Home Depot 5 gallon homer bucket
Heatshield sunshade (driver/passenger, second row, rear windshield, sunroof) - note that their website only shows only one side window (driver/passenger), you need to call in to ask them to add the second row side window ones - on my invoice it says part #1425S-A and #1425S-B
Antigravity Batteries AG-XP-10 Multi-Function Power Supply and Jump Starter (check eBay to see if priced cheaper)
Viair 77P Portable Compressor Kit (check eBay to see if priced cheaper)
Amazon stuff:
EZ Pass Holder for VA Flex
Aux cable
Stickershield (parking stickers, etc)
Dropstop seat gap filler (driver/passenger side)
Door panel removal kit (for speaker kit install)
Two grit guards
Microfiber Drying towel
Microfiber cloths (3 pack)
Car wash shampoo
Wheel brush
Resqme (window breaker/seatbelt cutter)
Wheel cleaner
Microfiber wash mitt
Reindeer costume for Christmas
Headrest coat hanger
Road reflective triangles
Duct tape
Odor eliminator
Tire air pressure gauge
OBDII Scanner (Bluetooth)
First aid kit
The shininess of wet tumbling seems to be largely contingent on which cleaning agents you put in the water. I've had excellent luck with good car wash soap - https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G7164-Class-Shampoo-Conditioner/dp/B0009IQXFO. After 3 hours in my FA tumbler, the brass comes out extremely shiny inside and out, even the primer pockets are shiny.
Wow. I should get into paint correction. <$250 for all the tools and polish and waxes. As a car guy, I don't mind waxing my car every 6 months (or 4 months if you're in the frigid north or are anal). I also feel it's foolish to drop $2k-4k on these nano-quartz-bullshit schemes that a lot of car guys swear by nowadays. If you want to drop $4k on paint protection, go for it, but I can get a full window-out repaint for the same price!
Here's what I learned:
Buy the equipment:
https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7424XP-6-Inch-Variable-Speed-Polisher/dp/B002654I46
https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Action-Hook-Flexible-Backing-Plate/dp/B0008G1RDK
https://www.costco.com/Kirkland-Signature-Microfiber-Towel-Case%2C-324-count.product.100341124.html
https://www.amazon.com/Collinite-Liquid-Insulator-Wax-845/dp/B000JK2D06
http://www.autogeek.net/lake-country-beveled-pad-kit.html (MIN: 2 orange, 2 white, 1 black, 1 blue -- I prefer doubling this order; Autogeek almost always has 10-25% off coupons on their mailing list)
You will also need an extension wire with the appropriate gauge (too thin/cheap cables might cause you to burn your Porter Cable motor!)
Buy the compounds (start with UC; if swirls aren't getting cut, move up to 50%/50% UC and 105 on the pads; finish with 205 regardless):
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM (medium aggressive)
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B003LMGDHI (most aggressive)
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B001O7PNXC
Wash your car with this, and the two-bucket method:
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G7164-Class-Shampoo-Conditioner/dp/B0009IQXFO
https://www.amazon.com/Zwipes-Chenille-Microfiber-Premium-Scratch-Free/dp/B002J7KCOG
Claybar the car:
https://www.amazon.com/YGDZ-Quality-Detailing-Claybar-Shipping/dp/B01MF4BVVS
It took me about 5-6 relaxed hours on a Sunday with a few beers for the full correction. Now I simply top up the wax every few months (and that only takes 30 min).
The thing is, once you do the full correction and get rid of all your swirls and scuffs and whatever clearcoat damage (wash + claybar + M105/UC + M205 + wax), then you don't have to do the FULL correction ever again.
Ever again meaning, if you wash the car properly thereafter with the two-bucket method. You'll simply need to top up the wax once it stops beading -- the wax will protect the clearcoat from damage and swirls.
My wax lasted 6+ months being daily driven in the California sun with three coats of Collinite 845 -- I assume if yours will see more snow and ice and rain, perhaps it'll only last 3-4 months. But since a bottle costs <$20 and you'll get at least 36+ layers out of it, I always recommend this versus the "nano coatings" that people are shelling out $2-4k for.
Here's the Collinite fanboy thread:
https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/40243-collinite-845-definitive-how-guide-legendary-wax.html
Any other questions, feel free to ask. Good luck!
Quick dry electronic cleaner is what worked for me where compressed air didn't. Applied basically the same way, flipping up the sheath on the analog stick and applying a bit with the included straw.
Spray it with a small squirt of QD Electronics cleaner. It's safe and designed for electrical components and you can buy it just about anywhere.
https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05101-QD-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000CCMLD0
As long as it doesn't have a screen on it, a can of this will work quite well, it's like keyboard air but better because it's also a solvent (but doesn't dissolve plastic like Brakleen). Don't use it near backlit screens though, it dissolves the glue holding them together and you'll never quite get it looking right again.
Dust gets trapped under the analog stick causing it to never properly reset to neutral when you let go. You can fix it with electronic cleaner (use a toothpick or something to lift up the rubber flap under the analog stick to expose the internals and spray).
This is great advice. The one step I'd add would be, if at all possible, to use a purpose made contact/PCB cleaning spray on the PCB before reassembly. This will safely and effectively remove any conductive deposits left from the water and drive out any remaining moisture. You may find after disassembly that the rubber membrane kept any crap from getting on the PCB, in which case you might be ok without, but you've gotten this far so....
It's not terribly expensive. Amazon is a good example. You can find the same kind of thing locally at a car parts place or maybe even a radioshack.
Here you go
MATCC Adjustable Foam Cannon 1 Liter Bottle Snow Foam Lance With 1/4" Quick Connector Foam Blaster for Pressure Washer Gun https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CE78VO8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_je1SCb7RHF37K
Chemical Guys CWS_101 Maxi-Suds II Super Suds Car Wash Soap and Shampoo, Cherry Scent (1 Gal) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TPW5YM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pf1SCb4FH2TET
Rail dust from transport is very common on new cars and may or may not shot up as small orange specs. It can be removed with a clay bar as suggested, but whenever possible it's best to avoid physical contact with the paint. So in this case a chemical decon such as IronX would be your best bet. And a bonus, it has a unique smell.
It's fine and anyone who says otherwise just doesn't know what they're talking about and shouldn't be speaking. Do you want to use an industrial 3000psi pressure washer meant to effortlessly remove paint from brick walls? No, probably not. Can you use a 2200psi residential use pressure washer with an appropriate nozzle that disperses the water in a 24-40 degree spray pattern? Absolutely, I do it every few weeks without any issue on both my bike and cars.
Like everything else adults do, use sound judgement and rational decision making. Don't get the nozzle too close to an area you don't want to risk damaging, don't use a zero degree nozzle setting that acts as a water jet, and don't focus the spray on a single area for any amount of time.
While you're at it, do yourself a favor and get a foam cannon along with foam cannon specific wash solution and have at it. It's actually kinda fun to use too! Rinse the bike with the pressure washer to remove surface dirt, foam it up and let it sit for a minute, wash with a mitt, rinse with the pressure washer, then rinse once with the open hose end.
Here are both of the products I got (Not including the Pressure Washer)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009OTW646/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CE78VO8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I have never used tuff stuff, but I have had good success with Meguairs APC
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D10101-Detailer-Purpose-Cleaner/dp/B0006SH4GE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469057081&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=d101
Another decent one is 303 multi surface cleaner/303 spot cleaner.
http://www.detailedimage.com/303-M2/Cleaner-Spot-Remover-P15/32-oz-S1/
The process is pretty much the same regardless of which cleaner, You spray it on, agitate it, then blot with a microfiber towel.
If that doesn't work you could try using a steam cleaner
Highly recommend a gallon of Megs APC. It's cheap and it will last forever. It's great for tires/wheels, exhaust tips, engine bay, interior, etc.
Also, remember to cancel the Prime trial before it ends if you don't want to keep it. They automatically charge you at the end of the trial.
Nice ride. I myself have a 2015 Mazda 3 GT. I use Lexol for cleaning and conditiong (protecting) leather. Just use some TRC microfiber towels to clean the leather and the rest of the interior. For the dash, I just use Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer and D101 APC. It doesn't leave a shiny residue on the dash. I use those two for almost everything on the interior.
Meguiar's APC seems to be everyone's favorite around here.
Meguiar's D101 is a really cost effective and solid product that can be diluted to interior and exterior concentrations.
Chemical Guys AllClean+ is another good option that can be diluted to interior and exterior concentrations, it also has a light almost fruity smell that I like. Some folks in /r/autodetailing have cooled a bit on Chemical Guys due to their ridiculous marketing and occasionally questionable customer service, but AllClean+ is a pretty solid product.
Ultima Interior Shampoo Gel is a nice, not dilutable product that smells amazing and does a great job on a lot of surfaces. It is less cost effective than the other 2 options but if you arent doing cars in bulk, its a good product.
The answer to your first question of what makes vehicles "have that glorious-mirror almost appearance" is paint correction. There is no miracle product that will instantly turn shitty paint into 100% flawlessness in 1 application. It will take good claying, compounding, and polishing to get the results you are looking for. I'm sure that the clay, HF DA, M105 and M205, and the various pads you have will be able to get the results you are looking for. The only problem is time. It is going to take more time to get the results because the HF DA is not powerful, when compared to something like the Rupes or the Flex.
Carnauba waxes. The consensus is that they add depth and shine, but don't last long. Sealants last longer, but with less shine and depth. Both sealants and carnauba waxes will make shitty paint look less shitty, with carnauba slightly edging out sealants. But like previously stated, its all about the prep work. Sealant on flawless paint will still look better than carnauba wax over sealant on shitty paint.
Glazes. The sole purpose of glaze is to fill in scratches. No amount or type of glaze will replace correcting paint. It is unnecessary to put glaze immediately after a vehicle just had paint correction as there are no scratches for the glaze to fill in. However, sometimes it makes sense to glaze and not correct the paint. Generally, the two situations where glaze is better than correcting paint are when you don't have enough time to correct the vehicle, or the customer does not have the funds to correct the vehicle. Correcting paint takes hours and hours, while glaze (depending on vehicle size) may take up to an hour to apply and remove. Obviously, paint correction costs more than an application of glaze.
Spray on wax compared to Collinite #845 is like comparing pee wee football to the NFL. Even a shitty application of Collinite that is 4 months old will still be better than spray on wax. That said, I think it is still good to use spray wax after washing the vehicle.
One thing I didn't see you mention is wheels, tires, and trim. You also want to spend great care on these three areas because they create contrast with the paint, thus making the paint look even better. Essentially, you want all aspects of the wheel clean (face, spokes, barrel). You want the tire to be scrubbed with cleaner and then dressed with a water based dressing. You then want to clean the trim with all purpose cleaner and use either dressing or a trim restorer to give it the original look. Good wheel cleaner: Sonax Good APC for tires and trim:Meguair's D101 Good tire dressing: Adam's Super VRT
Anything I have said here is open for constructive discussion.
TL;DR Correcting paint is above everything. Glazes mostly unnecessary. Both sealants and carnauba waxes have their purposes. Look into cleaning and dressing wheels, tires, and trim.
I'm fairly new, myself. I've driven clunkers most of my life. Spent about five years downtown where I didn't have a car. Now I'm back in suburbia, so I've got a brand new GTI, and it's the first one I've ever cared to take good care of. Here's what I started with:
I should have picked up some of Chemical Guys' citrus wash and clear, too, to help deal with a winter's worth of grime left by terrible touchless car washes. I've also got a tire brush, hand vacuum, and some assorted cheap microfiber towels around already.
Your kit looks a lot more cost-effective, though. Throw in some cheap buckets, grit guards, wash mitts, and drying towel, and an extra stack of cheap microfibers and you're still under $100 for practically everything you would need for a proper two-bucket wash and wax.
You clean it with a can of Kool-it :
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007PHD0S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_YekzDbBP26MQT
The “fix” will likely involve a software solution to dry off the evaporator after you get out of the car on a trip. Some people will turn off the AC and let the fan blow for the last few miles, but I would rather having AC the entire drive.
It's in the ductwork, my dude. You might be able to use an evaporator cleaner to help.
how about this?
i just googled "Evaporator cleaning Kit auto" so you may want to do that too if you need to find something local to you.
I’m not blindly defending anything. I’ve had numerous problems with my Model 3, all fixed with mobile service, none of which I had with previous vehicles.
It’s a first generation car. Issues, big and small, come with the territory. Escalating something like mildew and dirty cabin air filters into calling it a design flaw, note the italics for extra out of proportion emphasis, per previous posts, is pretty minor, grand scheme.
Sounds like you’re more twisted about paying for it. If that’s the case, I get it. They should fix it for free due to their beta testing on customers. But they haven’t. If it’s totally un-drivable (blown out of relative aforementioned proportion), sell it. If it’s a minor nuisance, you can get a kit for $99 USD (or piece meal it yourself, $16) and do it yourself. It can’t be that hard.
Anyway, downvote as needed, it doesn’t change my view.
edit: links
Wash and Wax $8
24 microfiber towels $13
Quik detailer $8
Simple Green is your friend.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017D1GG6?ref_=wms_ohs_product&amp;redirect=true&amp;psc=1&amp;pldnSite=1
This ^ will last you a long time. I clean my discs with it to remove the squeak also.
This http://www.amazon.com/Park-CM-5-2-Cyclone-Chain-Scrubber/dp/B007HDNOT2/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1398709921&amp;sr=1-1-catcorr&amp;keywords=park+tool+chain+cleaner plus simple green = a super chain cleaning.
Also a little car paint detailer keeps it shiny shiny.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IQXAE?ref_=sr_1_cc_2&amp;s=aps&amp;qid=1398709624&amp;sr=1-2-catcorr&amp;keywords=meguires%20detailer&amp;pldnSite=1
Just spray it into a rag and not directly onto the frame to prevent over spray on the discs/pads.
As others have mentioned, a good lube (Boeshield T9 for example) should be matched to your riding conditions and applied.
http://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1398709998&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=boeshield+t-9
I use Meguiar's Gold Class for soap and in this picture I used Meguiar's Spray Wax as a drying agent.
My very first wash a few weeks ago I used HydrO2 for a longer lasting hydrophobic sealant.
I wouldn't buy it myself. Heres what I would buy it's cheaper and get the same results. Soap Foam Gun Wash Mitt Drying for about $60. It's what I started out with and I still use gold class every now and again and the foam gun for my Motorcycles.
Well I've just started getting together my own kit and felt I HAD to get these:
I still feel like there are atleast ten other products that I NEED!
-Pressure Washer
-Foam Cannon
-Detailing brushes
-Sealants/Compounds combined with a proper rotor drill
-ETC
I would reccomend these materials for the two bucket wash method. Its probably the most common method, and one of the safest. There are plenty of youtube how to's on this. These are the materials you'll need.
Not Necessarily essentials, but recommended.
I don't think you need anything like a DA at this point. Others will have recommendations for you, and I encourage you to take their advice as well. Some great youtube channels are Ammo NYC, Larry is a master at explaining how to's. He has is own line of products but they're expensive. You can even email him with questions and he'll respond quickly and go above and beyond to explain somethingto you. Junkman, also another great channel. Chemical Guys, they have some pretty good products but their customer service is shit. Their youtube videos are pretty good but all they do is upsell their products.
I'm fairly new to detailing like you. I dont have the best products, but what I use seems to work for me. There are better products out there but budgets can only be so large.
Depends on your budget. I use CarPro Reset shampoo as it cleans extremely well. However, you can also use Meguiars Gold Class and it does quite well. For wax, I would stay away from paste waxes. Find a good liquid wax as it spreads thinner which makes removal easier. Alternatively, if you want the same protection, if you do order from CarPro, pick up their Hydr02 Lite, which is a spray sealant that lasts just as long as wax. Just spray it on while wet, and rinse with high pressure. Protection for 3-4 months. Links below:
Reset - https://www.carpro-us.com/wash/carpro-reset-car-wash-500ml-17oz/
Hydr02 - https://www.carpro-us.com/coatings-sealants-spray-wax/carpro-hydro2-lite-1-liter/
Meguiars Gold Class - https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G7164-Class-Shampoo-Conditioner/dp/B0009IQXFO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1549208569&sr=8-5&keywords=meguiars+gold+class+car+wash
You can get CarPro from Amazon but its more expensive. Hope this helps!
Oh! you're talking about the finish. It's actually a little dirty! But for the wash, I use Maguiers Gold Class Shampoo, and for the wax, I use Collinite #845 Insulator Wax.
As for the touch up paint, this is what I use. You'll want to get with Mazda to figure out which one you'll need. This is the paint for my 2016 Jet Black M3
Always use a wash mitt (do not use a sponge), dry with a chamois, and always work in the shade. I also use the 2 bucket method with grit guards. Basic vid here (there are much better ones out there but it's a pretty easy method to grasp)
Hope this helps!
as a general rule of thumb anything with meguiars on the label will be a reasonably priced, good mid range product to use on your car, for an average person. not the best in the world but also you cant really go wrong with it.
if you are interested
(tbh the spray wax and quick detailer can be interchanged, on a technical level they preform slightly different functions, but for the average person who just wants a clean reasonably shiny car it will be fine.)
just make sure any microfiber cloths you use are kept clean and free from grit or you will scratch the paint.
if you are really sad like me give the ammo nyc youtube channel a watch https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SLUuiMnlhc0 i find them very relaxing to watch not sure why, but also shows lot of "best practice" for keeping your car in good condition.
Thanks!
I'm definitely a rookie that's been watching youtube videos to learn and haven't really spend much on tools.
Foam Cannon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WPKHFA6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Pressure Washer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NBVBT3I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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As a test run I used Meguiar's Gold Class: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G7164-Class-Shampoo-Conditioner/dp/B0009IQXFO/ref=sr_1_7?crid=BG425GLTKNPI&keywords=meguiars+gold+class+car+wash&qid=1555861387&s=gateway&sprefix=meguiars+gold+c%2Clawngarden%2C144&sr=8-7
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Honestly, the result vs effort in this method is really good. It's not a spot on wash but it was a quick wash and cleaned up nicely overall. I will definitely keep working this method in the future.
If you wanna keep it under $30 and want a very basic method of keeping your car clean then I would recommend the tried and true 2-Bucket Wash method.
TOTAL: $45ish
I know that $45 is over your budget of $30, but I highly recommend using the 2-bucket wash method. You can get away with using 1 grit guard and 1 wash mitt if you want to cut a little bit on cost. You could also buy a smaller size of car wash shampoo... this may get you closer to budget.
The reason I buy 2 grit guards is to use 1 in each bucket. You can buy only 1 and use it in the rinse water bucket for when you rinse your mitt.
You can also get away with having 1 wash mitt and look at different brands. I personally use 2 (one for upper half, one for lower half) to reduce contamination.
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If you want to expand later on to go beyond cleaning the car... then you can put some money into additional products. You will want to look into wheel brushes, all-purpose cleaner, glass cleaners, detail sprays, waxes, etc.
Once you start, you cannot stop!
I typed up a reply but it seems to have disappeared. Sorry if this is a repost.
It could be anything from trash in the button to the button falling off of the circuit board or a shorted trace. Without seeing the innards, it's really hard to say.
HOWEVER, I've fixed an amazing amount of gear simply by spraying it with contact cleaner.
Take the battery out, get as close as you can to the board, if that's not possible, just spray around the edges of the button from the outside, some cleaner should get in there.
As you're spraying liberally, click the button a ton of times. Something like 50 presses. Give it a minute or two to let the cleaner evaporate (shouldn't take long) and then power it back up and give it a shot.
There's a good chance this will do the trick.
Let me know if it works :)
Get some electric cleaner like: https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05101-QD-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000CCMLD0
Test it in an inconspicuous are first then douse the hell out of your switch.
Could also be a bad solder joint. Not too hard to fix if you take your time and work carefully.
Sure thing. This is the stuff I used. You can probably pick up something similar at Radio Shack, Best Buy or better yet a local electronics store.
There exist products that are specifically designed to clean contacts. It's called contact cleaner and it's what I use to clean both cartridges and consoles. Just spray it in the former and insert it into the latter a few times. Dries quickly and leaves no residue.
Yes. One drop of liquid shorting any traces could permanently damage electronic components. And yes, a motherboard is a very complicated piece of electronics. There is a lot of power regulation on the boards. A single blown cap will render a mobo dysfunctional. Buy this and follow the instructions. You can also buy denatured alcohol to clean circuitry.
I'm sure you'll get a whole bunch of different answers, none of which are right or wrong. When I first got into it, I was using Adam's Shampoo for my buckets, and wanted something dirt cheap that I could completely load up the foam gun with and not feel bad about. I got a gallon of Chemical Guys Maxi-Suds II for a similar price as my other more reputable brand 16-oz bottles, so I just liberally (and I mean liberally) filled up my foam cannon with that stuff, and saved my 'nice' stuff for the buckets.
I have quite a process now for this car.
I use the 2 bucket method with the following:
My Process
Extra stuff:
At first this took me almost 2 hours to wash my car, but after doing it every other week I'm now down to only an hour. It's extreme but it's detailed and allows me to also check if there are any rock chips, which I can then cover with some touch up paint.
/r/AutoDetailing would be a good place to ask too, I would for see some answers would be what /u/LexusBrian400 has already said, plus;
Dub
Iron X
That's just off the top of my head.
I thought about having the whole car repainted or trying to do the clear myself. I know if I reclear it, it wont look right. Its that Night Hawk Black from honda with the blue flake in it. Super pretty color :( I live in Ohio, but this car has ZERO rust other than one fender that got bent up from a blowout. Most rust is on edges in the underside and on brackets under the hood.
http://www.amazon.com/Carpro-Iron-Remover-500-Ml/dp/B004UM6DLE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1377626808&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ironx
This is the stuff right?
Not too sure if it is. I use CarPro Iron X and that is sade for painted surfaces and your wheels: Carpro Iron X Iron Remover 500 ml with Sprayer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UM6DLE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_H1QPCb6ZNA286
First of all, here's a link with some pictures: https://imgur.com/a/DdDMX8f
I just bought this car two weekends ago and I'm stoked. I have washed it once (normal two-bucket method, no polish/wax). I'm going to plan for a more in-depth detail this coming or the following weekend, so I'm planning on making some purchases and wanted to run them by you guys! My general plan is do a foam cannon spray, rest a little bit, rinse, decontaminate w/ Griot's Speed Shine and Griot's Synthetic Clay.
After decontamination, in the long run, I would like to put a coat of CQuartz. Beforehand, obviously, I need to remove as many of the swirls/scratches as possible. I don't have any experience yet with compounding/polishing so do you think I should try it first before buying the CQuartz, or should I just go for it?
Here's what I'd like to buy:
I already have some good stuff for cleaning wheels and I've been using Griot's Interior Detailer for the interior and it seems to be doing a good enough job. The interior isn't very dirty so just light cleaning suffices.
As for CQuartz prep, before I am more confident in the paint correction process, should I apply a wax after polishing, or will that just make it more of a pain in the ass to decontaminate the paint when I decide to apply CQuartz in the next month or so? FYI, I'm going to be reading the DA polishing guides on this sub before I buy anything related to that.
Any comments or suggestions on things I have selected?
Thanks!
And just think, some of the suds dripped off BEFORE I got this shot. Here are the links to the Foam Gun/Cannon and the soap:
Foam Gun/Cannon
Soap - Chemical Guys Honeydew Snow Foam
I also grabbed the mitt that was offered with it from Amazon.
I added some soap to the canister with the water to dilute it. I just poured in what I thought was good. My pressure washer is a gas powered Troy from Lowes rated at 2900 PSI.
Hope this helps you out.
Full album, http://imgur.com/a/UYQRW
Pressure washer: http://www.amazon.com/Joe-SPX3000-Electric-Pressure-14-5-Amp/dp/B00CPGMUXW
Foam lance: http://www.amazon.com/Professional-Foam-Lance-Adjustable-Bottle/dp/B004GNZYY4
Soap: http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-CWS40216-Super-Shampoo/dp/B00AFBXQNC
Towels: http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-MIC50706-Professional-Microfiber/dp/B00BQYCKE8
Ryobi wand. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QMKHNM0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nN08Ab1AVTA48
Foam cannon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0798NQTQS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.N08AbJNV28Y7
Home Depot buckets. https://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Home-Depot-5-Gal-Homer-Bucket-05GLHD2/100087613
Wash mitt. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TTL0TE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IQ08Ab8VGZPNJ
Soap. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AFBXQNC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dS08AbSYF7T4H
Pressure washer. https://m.harborfreight.com/1750-psi-13-electric-pressure-washer-63255.html
Micro fiber rags/towel can be had at AutoZone or O'Reilly's. I suggest getting a pack with multiple colors and dedicate a color to windows, front of the car, above the belt line and below the belt line. Then a big microfiber drying towel or two. Somewhere around $20 for all that depending on where you go.
Also check out r/harborfreight for a coupon. 20% are pretty common.
I bought a new 50th Anniversary Camaro, which has a Matte section on the hood. I've been searching and reading the wiki, and just want to verify or get better recommendations than what I think I've found.
I first need to wash the car with a matte wash, so I don't get any glossifiers or waxes on the matte section. I found Chemical Guys CWS_995_16 Meticulous Matte Auto Wash, but wasn't sure if there were other recommendations.
After that, I should use a matte sealant like Chemical Guys WAC_203_16 Blue JetSeal Matte Sealant and Paint Protectant.
Then for touch-ups use Chemical Guys SPI_995_16 Meticulous Matte Detailer and Spray Sealant.
With that done, I should tape off the matte section, and care for the rest of the car with regular wax, clay, and sealant as covered in various threads and the wiki here. For the tape, I see some recommend 3M 233+ painter's tape, while others say CarPro Masking Tape. Is there a significant difference between them?
Does that sound correct?
Do yourself a favor and pick up some Chemical Guys matte wash and detailer. I have a 2015 Gunner with the matte green finish and that stuff works wonders. Don't need a lot of the wash either to get the job done. Also, don't go cheap on some good quality microfiber clothes, with the matte finish, don't have a whole lot of protective coating so can easily be scratched.
Your new best friend for garage washes in the winter.
Optimum (NR2010Q) No Rinse Wash & Shine - 32 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D8DR0AO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vZ.1Ab3S50G2X
Mist the spots with a 50:50 blend of distilled white vinegar and DISTILLED water.
Wipe with a clean dry MF towel.
If you have hard water from your taps, I’d recommend switching to a rinseless wash with Optimum No Rinse Wash and Shine.
If you’re only washing 1 vehicle, you just need 1 gallon of distilled water in a bucket and .5oz of ONR and either the Optimum Big Red Sponge, or a fair number of decent MF towels (google the Garry Dean method).
https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO
ONR is all I use to wash my VW, my wife’s 4Runner, and my Dad’s Lexus.
Rinseless is the way to go. Saves time, saves water, better for the environment.
r/autodetailing if you want to learn more (read the wikis before posting questions)
Don't use just water.
You can pickup blue ONR https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510851008&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=optimum+no+rinse which you can use as clay lube, detailer, rinseless wash depending on the dilution with your distilled water.
Clay lube: ratio 1:64 or 2 oz/1 gallon
Those types of clay do the job and some people perfer it to traditional clay. I haven't heard of that brand, but i'm sure its the same stuff. I personally have little sponge from Nanoskin. https://www.amazon.com/Nanoskin-AS-019-AutoScrub-Grade-Sponge/dp/B00CUAWJ6G/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510851254&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=nanoskin
I like this better than that "towel" since this has a nice grip.
Pick up some Optimum No Rinse. Most useful and versatile stuff ever. Quick detailer dilution ratio is 1:16.
Optimum No Rinse(ONR) is a rinseless wash product that can, in certain situations, replace the standard 2 bucket method. It is diluted with water than worked over the car one section at a time with a microfiber cloths. Other uses include dilution for spray lubricant or quick detailer.
I have not used it personally but it is a very recommended product especially for those with difficult access to hose water.
Link
Process
Album
Optimum (NR2010Q) No Rinse Wash & Shine - 32 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D8DR0AO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lvviDbJGHZREM
Have you ever tried rinse-less carwash? I live in an apartment complex without a car washing bay and it has saved my life. Super easy to use and all you need is a bucket of water and a good amount of microfiber towels!
https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1A5MPFJXPB92&keywords=rinseless+car+wash&qid=1567781917&s=gateway&sprefix=Rinseless+car%2Caps%2C217&sr=8-4
Optimum No Rinse
I've been using optimum no rinse, no hose needed and no water spots.
https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1488119336&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=optimum+no+rinse
I am also hose-less and garage-less, so I've been using this rinseless wash, good microfiber cloths (about 5 to do the whole car), and a large chemical guys microfiber towel to dry. If the car is pretty dirty you're going to want to spray it off at a car wash to prevent swirling of the paint. I've been using 303 to finish off the interior and black magic to clean the tires/wheels when i go to spray the car off at the car wash.
https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO
Interesting, so I guess I will save the bays for actual dirt and grime then.
So I will need a bucket, some ONR wash (Is this diluted with water?), a drying aid, and a drying towel. What exactly is a drying aid, is that like a product?
Will these works?
ONR
NO.1 Wash mitts
NO.1 Drying Towels
Also, you said you do a quick 10 minute wipe down, is that the process you use? Or do you have another touch up product or something?
Thank you by the way!
Like ultragib said, the green stuff has wax in it. You're looking for the blue stuff if you want to wax as a separate step.
https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505760994&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=optimum
What I used:
Mothers Microfiber Performance Drying Towel.
AmazonBasics Microfiber Cleaning Cloth, (Pack of 24).
Chemical Guys MIC_701_01 - Glass and Window Waffle Weave Towel.
Stoner 92164 Invisible Glass for Window, Windshield and Mirror Cleaner.
Rain-X 800002243 Glass Treatment.
Griot's Garage 10268 Micro Fiber Wash Mitt.
Optimum (NR2010Q) No Rinse Wash &amp; Shine.
Eagle One 665854 All Wheel and Tire Cleaner.
Mothers Wheel Brush.
Mothers 10324 Reflections Tire Care.
Chemical Guys ACC_300_2 - Durafoam Contoured Large Tire Dressing Applicator Pad.
Meguiar's G14422 Ultimate Quik Detailer.
303 Products 30350 Aerospace Protectant.
Black &amp; Decker CHV1510 Dustbuster 15.6-Volt Cordless Cyclonic Hand Vacuum.
(I live in an apartment complex... otherwise I'd probably get a shop vac).
Two 5 gallon buckets.
2 of The Grit Guard Inserts.
First off. I totally know your feeling and it sucks. Most likely you did not ruin your paint. I would go to a real detail shop in your area and ask for a single stage polish and sealant (or ceramic coat if you can afford it) . Then hand wash or touchless from now on. Then get yourself some Optimum No Rinse and some microfiber towels from The rag company (on amazon). Happy to help with some other tips if needed but there are many great youtube videos. Good luck, it's not ruined!
Yes!
I am reminded by your post to share this stuff as well: Optimum No Rinse
It's for the outside of your car, but it requires no water and works WONDERS. Every time I use it I'm like, "I need to spread the word on this shit!!!" (It's also highly concentrated, and a single teaspoon makes a GALLON.)
I put it in a spray bottle and mostly use it for touch-ups, and it's better than Windex for windows.
I am glad to hear that, because i was planning to do those two pieces next, haha. Did you do it on a black car? If so, was the color difference glaringly obvious, or did it match pretty well? That is the only thing I'm afraid of.
Also, in those cases of the dip not peeling well, this is your best friend.
DipYourCar Dip Dissolver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EKS5FJO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-addBbZ1AQMB1
I think your thinking of people using actual clear coat paint. paint on top of plastidip does exactly what you're describing. Glossifier is still plastidip, but instead of colored, it is clear and dries to a shine. I've peeled black and gloss plastidip off of a hood before with no problem. The main problem you could run into with removing plastidip is if it is to thin, then it would just rip into pieces instead of peel off, but then you can use this dip dissolver and just power wash it off. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EKS5FJO/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687442&amp;pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&amp;pf_rd_t=201&amp;pf_rd_i=B00JKWIGBY&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=03BGW7BANACYKCCDAHCD
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EKS5FJO/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687622&amp;pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&amp;pf_rd_t=201&amp;pf_rd_i=B00JKWIGBY&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=0AQC9PRDJ6M7NBSYNF25
Thanks what I used.
Gallon of Blue ONR is on sale for $35 on amazon right now.
Picked up a bottle two days ago when it dropped to this price momentarily as well. Good deal according to camelcamelcamel where the last lowest price was $34. It's free shipping even without prime b/c it's over $25.
Edit: If you buy it remember to use "www.smile.amazon.com"!
Noob detailer. Please help to check my rinseless wash process for mistakes and/or advise on existing paint damage.
Started following this sub when I got a nice enough car to care for. It's a Mazda with soul red paint though and seems like every little thing is super visible and the clear coat scuffs when you look at it wrong. I street park in Brooklyn, dust, leaves, pollen, bird bombs and all, every day. Was recommended to adopt ONR rinseless 2 bucket method, researched and tried to follow to the best of my ability.
First, the list of equipment I obtained thus far:
Below is the workflow I had going today, so much new stuff to use and new methods, I did not feel in the least bit confident that I did it right. Asking for folks here to review it and point out any mistakes I have made along the way as well as tips to optimize the process for the future:
I went out to the car with two buckets, each with grit guards, one with 256:1 ONR solution, the other just warm water for rinsing. I started applying ONR solution in straight line motions with BRS one panel at a time starting with the roof>rear window/trunk gate>windshield>hood>front fenders>rear fenders>rear doors>front doors. I do not aim to detail interior or wheels much tbh, but i did dedicate about 6 costco towels to wheel duty by cleaning up the nooks and crannies of the wheels and wheel wells, rinsing them in rinse bucket and never dipping them back into the ONR bucket after first use. Following that, I cleaned and refilled rinse bucket and went back to repeat the panels. Why? Well, the car was very dirty with BRS quickly becoming black with dirt and me switching to costco MF towels to make another two passes over each panel, discarding towels that get visibly dirty on all quarters into laundry pile. I tried folding dirty halves/quarters away and using the Ammo NYC sweep and rotate style to minimize contaminants dragging across paint. Eventually, I felt ready to move onto claying because costco towels and BRS were no longer looking dirty as I passed them across.
Here is where my confidence and excitement of a new auto detailing convert took a big hit. First of all, I had a superficial but long scratch across the right side which I expected to be possible to mask down with claying>using opti seal, since I could not actually feel it with my fingers. That didn't work at all, although I could tell by doing the ziploc bag drag test that the clayed areas were much smoother than the untreated ones. I used Mother's detailer spray bottle to lubricate, half panel at a time, then slide the pancake shaped clay sideways with no inward pressure until i stopped feeling drag resistance. I added lubricant if I felt clay stop on dry areas.
I wanted to change pace after failing with masking the scratch, so I started on the inside of the windshield. I made a 10:1 ONR solution in a spray bottle, sprayed it direct onto a high gsm fluffy mf towel from aliexpress and started wiping away at the inside. I then used the flat looking towel (also from aliexpress) to wipe down streaking. I was pretty happy with the results, but unsure if I did something wrong or missed a step. Still, I moved on.
I then wiped the entire exterior with a clean towel and soaked up the Opti seal applicator, proceeding to apply the stuff one panel at a time and following up with another clean mf towel to wipe off the excess wherever i saw streaking (which was almost everywhere as it was my first time and I wanted to lay a generous protective coating). I got rid of streaking easily, but....
The result was clean, silky smooth paint, but upon closer inspection, it was covered in etchings from leaves, bird bombs and whatnot. The ONR>instant detailer>clay>opti-seal did not remove it. I did not apply pressure onto paint in affected areas during any of the above procedures, as I was afraid of damaging clear coat even further. Did I need to apply more inward force and scrub down the etched areas once it was cleaned from contaminants? Or the only solution to these spots now is to polish? Here is a picture of one of many etchings. some others are bigger in size, some area smaller, one is shaped like an outline of a small leaf -( . The hood also has some tiny black dots that seem to have a white halo of discolored paint around them ~1mm wide.
What would be recommendations for me at this point, and what ballpark cost to fix if I am not skilled/dedicated enough to get into polishing myself if that's the route I have to take? I did look over the field guide link for paint damage in the sub wiki section, says etching removal can require up to polishing depending on severity, but I couldn't tell what severity etching I got going tbh.
Finally, are there any parts of this process that were done wrong or could be done better? Are the instant detailer spray and 10:1 ONR spray different in what they can do, or do they more or less perform same function to lubricate and suspend contaminants on the clear coat? Do I need to somehow strip opti-seal layer every few months to re-clay and re-seal, or just ONR on top and instant detailer spray>spot clay>reapply opti-seal in trouble spots from here on out?
I used the nanoskin sponge to clay the entire car since the car is pretty new. I let the wax sit for an hour. I've never had much success with 845 even on different cars. I get about maybe 2 weeks MAX. That's on all waxes I have used. I always just wrote it off as my car not being able to be garaged and maybe dirty/mineraly hard water that my city has to use. Also, the way that I'm checking if the wax is still there is by observing how/if the water beads after rinsing and how the paint feels. Most of the time, it's no longer silky smooth and the water doesn't bead in nice circles anymore. The water beads in messy blobs.
&nbsp;
My process goes:
This takes me about 4 hours...
&nbsp;
The products I use:
Optum
Touchless car washes don't do shit to clean your car. I spent about $8 on that useless machine, and there was still a layer of dirt on my front/rear bumper, side skirts, and grill. Best thing to do if you're on a budget is buy one of these [microfiber wash mitt] (http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-Chenille-Microfiber-Scratch-Free/dp/B003TTL0TE/ref=lp_3020674011_1_2?srs=3020674011&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1454030316&amp;sr=8-2) and the next time you head over to one of those self service car washes just pre-soak the car and the mit and scrub one panel at a time and rinse off the mitt with the pressure hose.
Edit : If you're not on a budget i would recommend doing the 2 bucket car wash method once a week or so. After about 4-6 months i would clay bar the vehicle and use ONR as a lubricant. There are many sealants out there, but only a few can last nearly 6 months. Chemical guys has some great sealants and waxes, but they have so many that it confuses the shit out of people. Save yourself the hassle and get some Jet Seal, some microfiber applicators and some microfiber towels and you're set.
Edit 2: Here is a list of tested waxes and sealants i found on the interwebs a few weeks back http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=85205
These have been shown to have lasted more than 4 months
"Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection
Chemical Guys: M-Seal, Jetseal 109, Speed Amor
Klasse AIO and Sealant Glaze
Hi Temp Paste
Zaino AIO, Z2 and Z5
Wolfgang Deep Gloss Sealant."
Back in the day I had a 2000 TJ and used to use Mothers Back to Black on the plastic trim. it worked rather well but it'll just become part of your cleaning routine, as it doesn't last forever.
Did yours come with the brush? I found some at Walmart but it doesnt have the brush. I suppose I can just get a brush with hard bristles.
http://www.amazon.com/Mothers-06141-Back-Black-Cleaner/dp/B00GZLMEDO
Mother's Back to Black. Used it on my Baja. It has to be reapplied so often, I had to do mine again after a fews months because my car sits in the sun. It should last longer if you have a garage. Here's what a difference it made between my bed trim and bumper plastic.
You should use some "back to black" on those trim pieces to really set it off!
&#x200B;
edit: Amazon
Personally, I use Meguiar's D101 though if you don't want to buy a whole gallon of concentrate Chemical Guys All Clean + is also good. The AC+ is a concentrate too, even though it comes in a spray bottle.
Looks like a good list to start out with. For Meguiars APC I wasn't able to find that locally. I ended up getting AllClean+ by Chemical Guys on Amazon and it was a good concentrate and fairly cheap for 16oz for $8 (Chemical Guys CLD_101_16 All Clean+ Citrus Based All Purpose Super Cleaner (16 oz) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AN7CT4K). I dilute it 10:1 for exterior. U can go 20:1 for interior. The reason I went with it was due to the time for shipping on Meguiars APC (wasn't prime). Also I picked up Stoners Invisible Glass at target for super cheap in case you don't want an entire gallon of Meguiars.
I also did a post with my entire list of stuff I used for my maintenance wash and got most of it from Amazon (not Adams chemicals since it is not Prime). Feel free to get ideas of products and different parts from there. Would highly recommend empty spray bottles if you are buying a lot of concentrated products. Link: https://m.reddit.com/r/AutoDetailing/comments/4g96kb/my_first_maintenance_wash_w_product_list/
hmm do you think the Meg's quik detailer is not an APC? Any APC reco is appreciated otherwise I'm going to buy these 2 and try it out. I also added photos.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000N9OBNA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BFUG64I/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
I don't know if I'd trust any kind of 'sealant' on matte paint or powder coat. Anything that makes the finish stain resistant is also going to change the appearance. Chemical Guys makes a matte finish cleaner that I might try if it looks like Simple Green isn't doing the job for me. I have a few Chemical Guys' products for my car and they haven't let me down yet.
I used Optimum No Rinse during the winter time, because it allows for small parts of the car at a time, without requiring rinse.
But invest is a Waffle Weave Drying Towel, a couple bucket's from wal-mart (like $2.50 a bucket) and some Grit Guards for each bucket and your in business. You can use any soft wash mitt, and there are a lot of different brands and styles out there, and I also recommend a Detailer or Wax (I prefer quick detailer during winter-times so I can just spray and wipe and it keeps the snow and crap off for a good amount of time.)
I personally like Meguiar's Ultimate Quick Detailer. Just spray it on your clean spot, rub it in all over, then single wipe it off with the dry side of the terry cloth, and you get some bead action next time it rains!
Optimum no rinse.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D8DR0AO/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_3b1rtb1ACB9NB
Have you looked into rinseless? I use this product:
https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473376077&amp;sr=8
I use about 2-3 gallons of water that I fill up at my bathtub and I can wash my entire car in less than an hour.
Get some OPT and keep a spray bottle in your car with some micro fiber towels (Costco has cheap ones). Can use this stuff on basically anything in the car too; seats, paint, and dash
It seems that your comment contains 1 or more links that are hard to tap for mobile users.
I will extend those so they're easier for our sausage fingers to click!
Here is link number 1 - Previous text "OPT"
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^Please ^PM ^/u/eganwall ^with ^issues ^or ^feedback! ^| ^Delete
I'd go with this much more economical size:
https://smile.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO/
I haven't used the chemical guys version, but ONR seems to be loved by detailer nerds the most out of any of the products.
I use a meguiar's microfiber wash mitt or the ONR sponge make ( https://smile.amazon.com/Optimum-22516-Big-Wash-Sponge/dp/B078DPCYFV )
One bucket method if car isn't that dirty. If really dirty, I'd use two. I do full washes about 60% of the time because my ceramic coating has degraded down to where a lot of dirt remains behind if I drive through rain and I like using my power washer. When I do that I use the same wash mitt or red sponge. The wash mitt is much easier to clean (laundry) than the big red sponge (hand wash usually), but the big red sponge is maybe a bit more mar preventative.
https://www.amazon.com/OPT-Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO
Buy a bottle of Optimum No Rinse (abbreviated ONR). you only need 1/2oz per gallon, so you are looking at 64 gallons of detail spray per 32oz bottle. Just take a brand new gallon of distilled water, put a capfull of ONR in it, then transfer some to a spray bottle and go to town.
you can spray a panel and wipe with a microfiber cloth to do a quick waterless wash or touch-up. And since ONR is a water softener, if you miss some when drying, it wont leave any spots.
ONR is pretty much a miracle product in the detailing industry and i wouldnt trust any detailer that doesnt have atleast a gallon of the stuff onhand at all times.
Optimum (NR2010Q) No Rinse Wash & Shine - 32 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D8DR0AO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LzV7Cb04NMNGN
This? Optimum (NR2010Q) No Rinse Wash & Shine - 32 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D8DR0AO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_svdDCbTFXBRKF
1 or 2 buckets, Lake Country sponge, Optimum No Rise & Shine, nice double mist sprayer, and like 10-15 micofibers and you'll be set.
buckets + sponge for monthly washes, sprayer + microfibers for touch ups every couple days.
Just to confirm, ONR?
Am I on the right track? I am currently looking for all the products I need to completely detail my car. I know there is no way I could purchase all of these at once, so I am planning on purchasing the major ones first and adding the others over time. I have spent almost two weeks researching on everything I need to do. There is so much information and so many opinions that it is hard to find a definitive answer on what I need.
> Wheel
Wheel soap:
Wheel cleaner:
Tire dressing:
Wheel wax:
> Paint
Paint soap:
Paint soap addition:
Leaf blower:
Clay bar:
Dual action polisher:
Backing plate:
Pad:
Compound:
Polish:
Sealant/wax:
> Interior
Carpet cleaner:
Dashboard cleaner:
Leather cleaner:
Leather conditioner:
Glass cleaner:
There are a bunch of other tools not listed here, but the ones listed above are the areas I am most concerned about.
> Other Concerns
I am still anxious about spraying water in my engine bay, so I decided to use a spray bottle with soap and water and a microfiber towel to wipe down the engine bay while it is still decently clean. Can I use diluted Meguiar's D143 or will I have to purchase Meguiar's D101 instead? Can the Optimum Tire Gel be used on the black plastics of the engine bay, as well as the other black trims of my car?
I want to protect my interior, in addition to cleaning it. I am very confused on what product I need to use to protect my dashboard from the sun. The same goes for the leather seats, where the creases are forming. I have been using a conditioner (although I am unsure of the exact name) to slow down the crease formation. Should I use the same product for both the dashboard and leather seats (with Lexol Conditioner on top of that)? I have heard of Leatherique Leather Rejuvenator/Prestine Clean, but I am unsure of when I should use that.
Last question, which one is better?
This:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GG9FB8U
Or this one:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D8DR0AO
And would both work while using clay for decontamination?
Optimum No Rinse & Shine has worked wonders... all with 1 capful in 1 gallon of water. https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO
Hello! I bought a new car a little over a month ago and I wanted to do some basic cleaning with it, stuff that can be done maybe a couple times a month, since I never personally did that with my previous car.
Anyways, I live in SoCal so I'm trying to keep water usage to a minimum. This is my current "to-purchase" list that I'd like to buy soon;
ONR
iK Sprayer
Iron X
TRC Creature Edgeless 10pack
Mother's Tire Brush
ABN Wheel Woolies
Stoner's Reach Tool
Already have: Stoner's Invisible Glass, Costco multipack MF towels.
Will I still want to get a clay bar + wax for after washing, or is just washing every so often enough?
Because of the Prime Day deals I decided to pick up a few different products without knowing too much. I bought: Optimum No Rinse, Mothers Clay Bar System, Microfiber Clothes, Liquid Wax Paint Sealant, and Hybrid Wax.
My quick understanding is that the recommended process is: wash > clay > wash > wax. In terms of these products, does that mean:
ONR wash > Mothers Clay (should I use their lube or just the ONR water?) > ONR wash > Liquid Wax > Hybrid Wax
Just want to make sure I follow the right order so I can start to keep my car in good shape. How often should I clay? What about the sealant and the wax?
Thanks!
Yep, that's exactly it. Get a 32oz bottle of it and just dilute it at 1:16 with distilled water. You can use it to clean the wheel, as well as the other interior parts. It works great on the faux carbon fiber because other interior cleaners with UV protectants leave streaks that are hard to get off the shiny plastic. The ONR works great, you can use it to quickly wipe off the outside of your car too.
First off, all automated car wash locations in Seattle recycle their water. These systems end up being poorly maintained and cause the wash systems to spray grit and dirt onto your paintwork at high pressure. Even the self wash bays suffer from this. If you care about marring in your paint finish don't use them.
You have 2 options, depending on how dirty you let your car get.
Best option:
DM me if you want more specifics.
Adding on to this - if you don't have access to a hose you can use
ONR with washmitt then dried with microfiber towels.
I have not used the stuff but they make a product specifically for this purpose. http://www.amazon.com/DipYourCar-Dip-Dissolver®/dp/B00EKS5FJO
Used to use this on my 06. One application will last for years.
https://www.amazon.com/Forever-Bumper-Improved-Formula-Larger/dp/B00FAYLPZK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520045604&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=forever+black
Here are links to all items used or mentioned in this video:
EQUIPMENT:
Sun Joe SPX4001 2030 PSI 1.76 GPM 14.5 Amp Electric Pressure Washer w/ Pressure Select Technology & Hose Reel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NBV3LPV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_h74uCbXEB81HB
Sun Joe SPX-UQC Universal Brass/Aluminum Pressure Washer Garden Hose Quick-Connect Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HH3V1Z0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.74uCbWV6TH05
McKillans Foam Cannon Professional Grade Adjustable Lance Pressure Washer Jet Wash with 1/4” Quick Connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D6KPV3G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GN5uCbG88X0C2
Extra Bonus! Includes 3 Additional Filters - Metro Vac Revolution W/ 30 Ft Hose - Model MB-3CD SWB - 30 - Air Force Master Blaster Car & Motorcycle Air Dryer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0711L4Y6F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IS5uCbZ4QRY1C
https://simplechuck.com/
Amazon:
Double Chuck https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072QRNWY8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5m5uCbRTN1SPV
https://www.autogeek.net/ps-beadmaker-sprayer.html?productid=ps-beadmaker-sprayer&amp;channelid=FROOG&amp;utm_source=CSEs&amp;utm_medium=GoogleProductSearch&amp;utm_campaign=CSE&amp;utm_campaign=1504990722&amp;utm_source=google&amp;utm_medium=cpc&amp;utm_content=287205172222&amp;utm_term=&amp;gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzafHqKCb4AIVARx9Ch2RlwD6EAQYByABEgJcZvD_BwE
CHEMICALS:
Chemical Guys CWS_110 Honeydew Snow Foam Car Wash Soap and Cleanser (1 Gal) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009OTW646/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_594uCbGY470D2
https://www.theragcompany.com/p-s-bead-maker-paint-protectant-gallon-128-oz/
Optimum (NR2010G) No Rinse Wash & Shine - 1 Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GG9FK2M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RE5uCbVH68G0R
Hope's Perfect Glass Cleaner, 2 Piece, 32 Oz. Spray Bottle and 64 Oz. Refill Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ALK3I52/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bI5uCbW6A0HWF
Chemical Guys CWS_201 Microfiber Wash Cleaning Detergent Concentrate (1 Gal) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001W91J8K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9K5uCbQSX7V7A
OTHER SUPPLIES:
https://www.theragcompany.com/value-bundle-cyclone-wash-mitt-premium-korean-microfiber-2-pack/
https://www.theragcompany.com/value-bundle-eagle-edgeless-600-16-x-16-towel-grey-5-pack/
https://www.theragcompany.com/value-bundle-16-x-16-creature-edgeless-dual-pile-towel-5-pack/
https://www.theragcompany.com/value-bundle-16-x-24-eagle-edgeless-500-microfiber-towels-3-pack/
Similar Wheel Brush
AmazonBasics Wheel Brush, Long Handle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073P7FSW5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ml5uCb5R63RHP
Quik Shot - 16 Ounce Plastic Flask with a Built-in 1 Ounce Shot Glass Chamber https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RM5FI5I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_STjvCb7H18HTF
Amazon got a gal of ONR for $28
Optimum (NR2010G) No Rinse Wash & Shine - 1 Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GG9FK2M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PsVZDb1QH2GAE
That's basically what I do with my car in the winter. I don't always use their soap because I don't know what's in it but, I power wash. If it's really bad, I'll do a pre-soak with my own dulited spray bottle of Simple Green or No Rinse.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GG9FK2M/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520218020&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=onr&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1
I buy some expensive yet cheap overall for the soap needed no rinse car wash. It's really great stuff and highly recommend it.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00GG9FK2M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Yep... you beat me to it. I use this... local stores tend to carry as well. https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-06141-Back---Black-Cleaner/dp/B00GZLMEDO/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473094443&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=back+to+black
I've used "Mothers Back to Black" a few times. Seems to work pretty good. I don't -think- it's too slippery. (something like Armor All would make it look great, but I think you'd slip right off the chair)
For the actual paint, I took that to a body shop for them to redo. For the bumpers and plastic trim that starts to fade, I used a few coats of Mother's Back to Black:
https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-06112-Black-Plastic-Restorer/dp/B00GZLMEN4/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485756436&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=mothers+back+to+black
A few coats of this and the plastic parts look like new.
MOTHERS Back to Black
I've used it for years with great results. Be sure and shake it up well before using.
This picture is very flattering. At the moment the trim is faded a little bit.
I've had good luck woth Mothers brand "back to black" you have to reapply every 3-6 months though
Edit: Mothers 06112 Back-to-Black Plastic and Trim Restorer - 12 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GZLMEN4/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_NrbLxb0MWADR6
If anyone has lots of scratches/defects in their paint, here are a couple steps that really make a huge difference for a total of ~$25:
If it's just skin oils then plain old soap and water should help. Use a car soap though, dish soap will strip wax.
You could also try Back to Black: https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-06112-Black-Plastic-Restorer/dp/B00GZLMEN4
Eraser is a fantastic product but it's expensive. For your needs I would rather purchase this gallon of APC. It can be used diluted 4:1 for your wheels and tires and it can be used on any stubborn areas on the paint as well. It can also be diluted 10:1 for your interior. To use it to strip wax, put a few ounces of it in your soap bucket with your soap and wash as usual.
Your order of operations would be this:
Meguiar's D101 All Purpose Cleaner Is 16 for a gallon which you dilute. Goes a long way!
Just found this on amazon. Not quite $10 for shipping.
Meguiar's D10101 Detailer All Purpose Cleaner Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006SH4GE/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_ePumxbW5DM0W1
I'm a total noob and have no business comment here, but maybe this:
http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D17001-Hyper-Dressing-Gallon/dp/B0006SH4PA
?
Edit: meant to post this:
http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D10101-All-Purpose-Cleaner/dp/B0006SH4GE/ref=pd_sim_auto_2?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=1XEKSX5N1PS0KJG1E1Y7
Thanks, maybe I'll just get something like this then: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Meguiars-D10101-Detailer-Purpose-Cleaner/dp/B0006SH4GE
Spray some of this on them, and I kid you not... the dirt just slides right off.
It. Is. Amazing.
I use it to clean every single thing inside my car, including the weathertechs. And it can be used as an engine detailer.
What equipment and supplies do you have already? If any.
Off the top of my head here are a few of the basics.
Meguiars D101 APC
Good Wet/Dry Shop Vac.
Stoner Invisible Glass
Adam's Polishes Interior Mitt
The Rag Company Edgeless 300
The Rag Company Glass Towels
Pressure washer or Strong hose spray. (For cleaning Carpets outside of vehicle.)
Bissell Spot Clean Auto
That is more than enough to get you started. Ill add more as I have time.
Let me know if you have any questions.
I would check with r/autodetailing first, but I think they like automotive specific all purpose cleaner and an interior brush. I use this https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D10101-Detailer-Purpose-Cleaner/dp/B0006SH4GE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505776624&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=Car+all+purpose+cleaner I don't know if it's the best, but autodetailing recommended it and I got it. It seems to work. You can wet dry vac it out.
Perfect job for Simple Green. For your unrelated project I would actually recommend Meguiar's D101 APC. Dilute 10:1 or 4:1 and you have an awesome cleaner for much cheaper than Simple Green. When using 10:1 you'll get 10 gallons! Its hard to beat that price.
Simple Green has a very strong chemical smell and when used on a large area the smell doesn't go away easily.
So I am looking into buying some detailing supplies for doing wheels and was hoping someone could look over this list. It is probably overkill, but I would rather have everything I need I think.
Brushes
ABN Wheel Whoolies
Boars Hair Detail Brush Set
Mothers Wheel Brush
Cleaners
Iron X
Meguiars Hot Shine Gloss Tire Spray
Meguiars D101 APC
The total comes out to $113 but I figured I would only be buying most of these items once so it will be worth it. Also this list doesnt even have any sort of sealant so not sure if I should buy one of those also?
I'm planning to write a post in the interior soon but for now...
The first step is to give everything a really good going over with a vacuum. This is where you need to spend most of your time. Almost everything that's not leather can be cleaned with an All Purpose Cleaner (UK link and US link):
Spray it on, agitate with a brush (ordinary paint brush will do). Then...
If it's fabric - vacuum with a wet-dry vac (use a cloth if you don't have one)
If it's trim - wipe dry with a microfibre (UK link and US link)
To protect things I really like 303 Aerospace Protectant... it protects against fading caused by UV radiation (UK link and US link)
Leather is a different kettle of fish and you need to use a cleaner then a conditioner (UK link and US link)
This is what you want.
http://www.amazon.com/Kool-It-96030-Evaporator-Heater-Cleaner/dp/B0007PHD0S/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1404272095&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=kool+it
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bi22mdXj3wM
How to do it
The product: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007PHD0S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BXWxDbZHY1GHT
I’m going to do this next week, and I bought 2 filters from the Service Center today to make sure I keep this as freshly cleaned as possible. So take your time to do it right.
https://www.amazon.com/Lubegard-96030-Evaporator-Heater-Cleaner/dp/B0007PHD0S
This seems like the best bet..Unfortunately I can't find the Klima cleaner on Amazon anymore.. it says "Currently unavailable.
We don't know when or if this item will be back in stock."
I guess this is the same thing:
Lubegard 96030 Kool-It Evaporator and Heater Foam Cleaner
As a follow up to my own post, after doing some additional research on the smell thing, I went on Amazon and grabbed a bottle of this stuff with next day shipping. Maybe all it needs is a good AC flush.
Lubegard 96030 Kool-It Evaporator and Heater Foam Cleaner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007PHD0S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5NkGzbNJC1EYP
https://www.amazon.com/Lubegard-96030-Evaporator-Heater-Cleaner/dp/B0007PHD0S?ref_=ast_sto_dp
Isn't that it on Amazon Prime?
Buy a can of Kool-it. Detach the drain tube from the heater box. Attach the tube from the can and hit the trigger. It fills the evap core with a foam that kills the mold and bacteria.
https://www.amazon.com/Lubegard-96030-Evaporator-Heater-Cleaner/dp/B0007PHD0S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504635677&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=kool-it
It was a long day, but I'll try to get all the steps:
I feel obligated to say that I'm not associated with Meguiar's at all. I was doing all this with my brother who's a detailing enthusiast and he's a bit of a fan boy.
Also I don't have a ton of details on the rest of the interior because my brother started that before I arrived.
All in all it was about 5 hours, with some time spent on the interior before I arrived we also spent some time fixing up some stuff like mounting the window louvres and making the exhaust hang even in the back.
Don't use a carwash was that uses those rubbery bands that slide across your car. Those cause micro scratches that can easily be seen on a black car. Take your car to a carwash that hand washes the car or you can use the two-bucket method to wash the car yourself.
Between washes (black cars get dusty quick!) I take my car to an automatic carwash that uses just a water spray and dry it down carefully with quick detailer and good quality microfiber cloth.
For chain jobs, oil changes, etc just put a cardboard underneath like cappa mentioned. But for cleaning the exterior I use Meguires Quick Detailer and a couple of microfiber cloths. This way I won't need water. I'm also in an apartment so this is what I do:
1- With the first microfiber I wipe down the entire bike (dust, etc) from top to bottom and every little corner I can squeeze my finger in.
2- Spray the Meguires product above and wipe clean with the second microfiber.
That's it! This will make your bike spick and span without any water.
> Get yourself some waterless car wash spray
https://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-A3332-Quik-Detailer-Mist/dp/B0009IQXAE/ is what you want OP.
Love me some Meguiar's.
Here is a schedule and product list I've compiled. The first sheet is my routine and the other tabs are products with links to (mostly) Amazon pages.
This has been built over several years of detailing with some recent additions specifically for the Sub (namely the Menzerna Micro Polish 4500 which is better for the softer paint).
I use 1Z shampoo and wax only because I don't pay for it. If I were buying those myself, I'd use Meguiar's Gold Class and Collinite 845 for wax.
As lifetrees mentioned, check out /r/autodetailing, read the links to the right for product reviews and how-to's, learn the 2 bucket method, and check out some videos on things like polishing and waxing as these can be difficult to do properly on a dark color vehicle as they show every imperfection in the paint.
What do you mean by air blower/sheeting? I have tried an air compressor and the pressure is just too high and breaks up the beads of water bit doesn't really blow them off. But yeah I need to get the buckets and grit guards and the sheepskin wash mitt.I have been using a microfiber sponge thing kind of like this. What kind of cloth do you recommend for applying wax and what brand wax? I have been using some wax that came with the vehicle but I'm just about out and I've been applying it with some microfiber wax applicator towels from O'Reill. Also how often should I wash the wax applicators and how?I was just at Walmart and picket up some of this, not sure if it's recommended or not. I also got one of these but I'm not really sure of the purpose of it, I just keep hearing people talking about using "clay bar"¿?.
Sorry for the wall of questions, but like I said I'm really new to this and would greatly appreciate of you could answer most of them (if not all)
You'd have to open up the mouse, and clean the switch with some contact cleaner spray.
Something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/CRC-05101-QD-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000CCMLD0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1411762940&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=electronic+contact+cleaner
OR if you're skilled with electronics enough you can just replace the switch itself.
Unfortunately it's pretty common for nagas to fail this way. Buddy of mine had it happen to him too.
If you were to do it, I'd think the linked spray would be what you'd use, NOT WD-40.
https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05101-QD-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000CCMLD0
Edit: There are other cleaners as well.
Electronics cleaner. It's like a less abrasive brake-clean that's still a solvent and meant for use on electronics.
Buy yourself a can of this stuff and spray the inside of your connectors. You don't need to get it from amazon, walmart and auto parts stores have it. Let it air dry, should only take a couple minutes. Also check to see if all the pins in the connectors are in good shape.
That points to the motor. You can try hosing it out with Plastic safe contact cleaner to see if there is an improvement but you might need a new motor.
Usually a decent sized hardware store should carry that, at least in the US where I live they do. I know this one works perfectly for it that is on Amazon CA.
QD electric cleaner. That stuff will high pressure blast that stuff out. Toth burshwill help dislodge and mix the paste with it. I love this stuff.
http://www.amazon.com/CRC-05101-QD-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000CCMLD0
This stuff should do the job. It's an amazing degreaser, and doesn't leave a mess and won't ruin your flooring. It's entirely clear.
https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05101-QD-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000CCMLD0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479920047&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=electro+contact+cleaner
This stuff is pretty good at cleaning electronic connections. Also very useful for old stereo pots
They have a good selection and reasonable prices. The TTX brand controllers there are pretty good, not quite as nice as the Sony controllers but they worked with my stuff so far if you want new ones instead of used again. Try taking the controller apart though and cleaning it... http://www.instructables.com/id/Clean-Your-DualShock-Controller/?ALLSTEPS be sure to put the R2 L2 buttons back in after assembly and they will work with out having to try multiple times, they just snap back in after cleaning. Sometimes this works.
Edit:
You could also try contact cleaner with the unit unplugged, spay it into the controller port and controller plug http://www.amazon.com/CRC-05101-QD-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000CCMLD0
So Try,
Cleaning controllers, new controller, cleaning ports, and if those all fail, then its then most likely the system but they are pretty robust as others have stated
If you're not crashing, you're not flying fast enough ;-)
For those of us who crash often into dust/dirt/sand/grass, I recommend the following:
Hope this helps!
I'd get a fine grade nanoskin mitt or something similar for decon. Maybe a foam gun or foam lance and some soap. Might want to grab an APC for interior cleaning, although I think you can dilute ONR down as an APC... I really like Optimum APC though, very safe and effective.
I saw this today on slickdeals, choose subscribe & save to get it down to $13.35: 1-Gallon Chemical Guys Maxi-Suds II Super Suds Car Wash
I'm using this.
Yes, rinsing the car before touching the paint. I apply light pressure with the mitt.
Just soapy water (with this soap). I've used Sonax before, but it's a hassle because you have to rinse it off before it dries, and the red run-off stains concrete.
yeeah, definitely get ya some sonax or iron-x to get rid of those metal contaminants. https://www.amazon.com/Carpro-Iron-Remover-500-Ml/dp/B004UM6DLE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468507489&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=iron-x
Definitely give Sonax Full Effect Wheel Cleaner a try. I have had amazing success with this stuff. It will turn from green to red as it is working and breaking down iron particles and break dust.
Also, you can give either CarPro's Iron-X or TRIX (Tar and Iron Remover) a try.
Honestly, by looking at the picture, the Sonax should clean up the break dust and those streaks. Just let it sit on the wheel for a couple minutes and agitate it with a brush. I use this brush to get in behind the spokes as well.
As far as keeping brake dust from accumulating as quick, I'm not sure if there's really a remedy. You can wax your rims, there is stuff out there specifically made for rims, but I've never used it, so I'll let someone with experience speak on that. However, I read the other day someone used Collinite #845 Insulator Wax on their rims (same wax I use). I may give this a try next time I wash the car and see if it helps control the brake dust.
Grab some Iron-X. While you're at it, clean that chain (you can use chain cleaner or kerosene) to get a few more miles out of it.
Pick up some of this
It smells absolutely awful but it will remove the iron deposits in the paint and wheels and leave a cleaner surface to work with. I would clay bar the paint after as well. It sprays on clear and turns purple when it is working. Well worth the price especially since you can use it to remove brake dust from your wheels during washes.
https://www.amazon.com/Carpro-Iron-Remover-500-Sprayer/dp/B004UM6DLE
go check out /r/AutoDetailing for more info.
You can use Iron X followed by a clay bar.
Time wise if it’s what I think it is hard to say, Few weeks to a month maybe?
As I say if it’s what I think it is, it’s ‘hot’ metal that’s landed on the glass from an angle grinder or welding spatter.
You should be able to improve on it with something like the below to remove the ‘rusting’ of the particles, but if damage has been done to the glass you won’t fix that.
https://www.amazon.com/Carpro-Iron-Remover-500-Sprayer/dp/B004UM6DLE
Hope this helps! This isn't an exhaustive list of the best professional products but some of the best top rated affordable and highly rated by forums and high subscriber YouTubers. I'll try to answer questions as they come. Thanks for all tye comments and positive/critical feedback. Promise is all helps in the end!
Wash/Decontamination
Wheels/Tires
Compounding/Polishing
Finshing Wax/Protectant/Plastic & Trim Restorer
Interior/Glass Cleaners
Convertible Fabric Top Cleaner/Protectant/Sealer
Microfiber Cloths/Car Drying Microfiber Cloths/Buffing Microfibers/Brushes/Etc.
Good question for r/autodetailing.
Iron-x is my go-to for cleaning wheels and removing contaminants from paint.
Unfortunately car care can be somewhat expensive when you use the right products. I have a 2013 EX in SWP, so my garage is full of detailing products. Polishes, sealants, cleaners. You name, I've probably got it.
For calipers:
https://vvividshop.com/products/vvivid-red-enamel-wrap-heat-resistant
For the rims:
https://smile.amazon.com/Carpro-Iron-Remover-500-Sprayer/dp/B004UM6DLE?sa-no-redirect=1
and then
https://smile.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-WAC_303-8-Ounce-Sealant/dp/B001THV9D0/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505942169&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=wheel+guard
Thanks Popkins. I was confused because carpro 's site Click Herestates as such but Amazon specifically warns against Click Here using it on chrome & bare medals.
I somehow didn't run notice any of those...just got the regular one. Can't imagine how cherry or lemon could help the scent lol.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UM6DLE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I love it. Spray it on, rub it in with my spoke brush, and power wash it off. The wheels come out perfectly clean.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004UM6DLE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482198400&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=carpro+iron+x&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31Fqwzjw6oL&amp;ref=plSrch
Chemical Guys CWS_110 Honeydew Snow Foam Car Wash Soap and Cleanser (1 Gal) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009OTW646/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_r7je6cdN3q2ZJ
I use this soap with the sunjoe foam cannon on a sunjoe pressure washer
I use Honeydew Snow Foam and a Foam Cannon
http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-CWS_402_16-Super-Shampoo/dp/B00AFBXQNC/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&amp;colid=3S20FJUON7KFF&amp;coliid=I2XDZJ80IH3PQG
Question: How do you short link stuff?
Just to add, chemical guys sells an APC for $8. I bought one but have not had the chance to use it yet.
http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-CLD10116-Purpose-Cleaner/dp/B00AN7CT4K
Sun Joe SPX3000 Pressure Joe 2030... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CPGMUXW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
DUSICHIN SFL-001 Foam Cannon Snow... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WPKHFA6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Chemical Guys CWS_110 Honeydew... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009OTW646?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share