(Part 2) Best car electronics accessories according to redditors

I use multiple YI Dashcams hardwired using this: https://www.amazon.com/MicroUSB-MiniUSB-Hardwire-Adapters-Protection/dp/B072J3L2JN/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1535916653&sr=8-3&keywords=dash+cam+hardwire+kit

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Also, for the memory cards, make sure you get the "high endurance" kind. I use 2x128gb SD Cards... records for about 3 days.

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I also have a cheap UBB distro that has switches coming from the "hardwire kit" that lets me turn off cams in case I'm in a safe spot or I'm backed against a wall, etc.

Another option is an fm transmitter for your phone.

This will get rid of the GPU hiss. It doesn't help with the slight amp hiss that's a common problem with these speakers. But it does eliminate the loud hissing when your computer is under load/playing games.

Bluetooth FM Transmitter for Car, Wireless Bluetooth FM Radio Adapter Car Kit with Hands-Free Calling and 2 Ports USB Charger 5V/2.4A&1A. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073S62S65/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kdA.AbME9NNZ0

Haven't gotten my Rav4 yet, but have cleanly installed dash cams and rear reverse cameras on half a dozen cars already.

For a clean install, [get a wiring kit like this.] (https://www.amazon.com/MicroUSB-MiniUSB-Hardwire-Adapters-Protection/dp/B072J3L2JN/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=fuse+box+usb&qid=1569253472&s=gateway&sr=8-8)

Run the USB line properly above the edge of the headliner to position the dash cam, run the line down the A-pilar trim, and route into the drivers side footwell, hiding the wire from sight. You will need to pull the fuse for cigarette lighters in the fuse box located in the driverside footwell, typically a yellow 20 amp, see diagram on the lid. Then you plug this in its place and add a fuse into the provided slot to keep all the cigarette lighters functional. That will provide you with the (+) line and just loosen a nut or bolt that's attached to anything metal in the foot well and wrap the black wire with the end stripped, around the bolt and tighten it in place, that should provide it with (-) to complete the circuit.

Zip tie up the loose wires and use larger zip ties to keep all the parts in place. Enjoy your clean installation. If that's too difficult, get a ~10ft USB cable that matches your dash cam's and run it under the headliner, A-pillar and run it though the trim and route around as best as you can to the nearest cigarette lighter with adapter or USB port and plug it. This method might work better running down the passengers side, but is the uglier messier method.

The 500s of that year can connect to bluetooth to make phone calls only. But there's a USB and aux port right next to each other in the glove box, so with something like this you can play music through the car stereo over bluetooth.

You should try a ground loop isolator.

This is probably caused by poor shielding. Grab something like this from Amazon (just make sure you get the right size) and that might help. No guarantee though.

There is this sweet aux-to-bluetooth-adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSUWCZ0/

It is super dumb that some cars have this functions split! :P

Oh man it was stupid easy. Took maybe 5 minutes to do total.

Bought this and this from Amazon and installed with the factory radio. It just plugs right into the back with no issue on my non-JBL radio.

Both come with good instructions and a quick YouTube search to learn how to pop the radio out made quick work of it. Sound quality is crystal clear.

I loath aftermarket radios. The way they look and function is just hideous compared to where technology is. Alternatively I can't afford a $600 touchscreen unit. I'm a firm believer in just leaving things alone, leaving them stock so this fit right into my budget and methods. Very happy with the way it turned out. Sleek, elegant and simple.

If your radio doesn't have bluetooth input, you can get a bluetooth to aux device. https://www.amazon.com/GOgroove-SMARTmini-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Streaming/dp/B008XMV05G

For those of us without Bluetooth stereo and want a clean solution. https://www.amazon.com/iSimple-Hands-Free-Calling-Streaming-Smartphones/dp/B00FRU5UNA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1535986815&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=tranzit+blu&dpPl=1&dpID=41nW9mERuUL&ref=plSrch



I bought an FM/Bluetooth modulator that connects to the antenna port on the back of your head unit. You can turn it on (FM turns off so no static, but no FM stations) or you can leave it off (Use FM like normal). Comes with a button that functions as a skip track, answer/decline calls, activitate voice assistant, and a microphone. Highly recommend that thing.

You should first try clipping something like these onto both ends of the USB cable. It might be all you need.

I use this in my ‘08 and it’s an absolute godsend.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HDO66NK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4WLvCbQR2QCF6

I have a 2009 Vibe, which is virtually the same as your Matrix. Apply e-brake, shift into N, then pull up on the dash bezel from the bottom, just below the hvac controls, to remove. Get the Scosche dash kit https://www.scosche.com/2009-toyota-matrix-pontiac-vibe and any double-DIN fits in there just fine. When screwing the radio in, push up on the radio and alignment will be better. You'll need a standard Toyota wiring harness to splice into the harness that comes with your new radio, then it's plug and play. If you have steering wheel controls, you'll also need a steering wheel interface.
Order everything from Crutchfield and they will include all those extra parts with your order. Here's a pic of my install: http://forums.genvibe.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=45247#p513922

You probably should have considered this before buying the stereo.

The nice thing is, a '98 Corolla is one of the easier installs. It has a standard "single-DIN" (2" x 7") radio, and any aftermarket head unit will have existing holes on the sides of the deck to screw directly onto Toyota radio brackets.

If the new stereo you bought is "double-DIN" (i.e. about 4" tall instead of about 2" tall) it will not easily fit in your car. Sell or return it and get a single-DIN.

If you bought the stereo from a major stereo retailer like Crutchfield they would have included instructions and a jumper wiring harness that would have made this a no-brainer. If you don't have a jumper wiring harness you'll have to make one. The stereo comes with its male side of the harness; you'll need the correct female plug for your car to complete it. To put the two together, solder or butt-splice the matching wire colors. Do not attempt to cut and splice the car's own wires! For a normal stereo install there is no need.

I would look into this product (if it suits your needs). I bought a different one from them for my car (as I don't have a 3.5mm plug) and it's been flawless for a year.

http://www.amazon.com/GOgroove-SMARTmini-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Streaming/dp/B008XMV05G/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1421681246&sr=1-4&keywords=gogroove&pebp=1421681248997&peasin=B008XMV05G

Analog is the cheapest, fastest, and easiest.

Get a 3.5mm to RCA (stereo) Y adapter in the length you need:

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-iXCC-Shielded-Gold-Plated-Stereo/dp/B019D048XC/

Problem is, you may get buzzing from poor grounding, in which case you'll need to "lift" (isolate) the ground loop -

Plug something like this in-line, after the Y adapter, before the stereo AUX RCA inputs -

https://www.amazon.com/InstallGear-Ground-Isolator-Noise-Filter/dp/B077Y5DLBB/

or a newer type (plug this into the computer first, then that Y adapter):

https://www.amazon.com/REIIE-Ground-Isolator-Bluetooth-System/dp/B01JUOWB2Q/

I purchased this and it works great. The device auto turns on/connects. You can also play, pause, and skip songs using the buttons.

I had the same issue in my car and solved it by using an inline ground loop isolater, as others have mentioned. Here's the one I purchased for $6.99 USD through Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XQYN77L. This completely removed any audio interference from the engine.

I have this https://www.amazon.ca/AUKEY-Wide-Angle-G-Sensor-Dual-Port-Charger/dp/B075VRXRD6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=aukey+dash+cam+dr02d&qid=1555966124&s=electronics&sr=1-3


and tied it into the fuse box with this
https://www.amazon.ca/MicroUSB-MiniUSB-Hardwire-Adapters-Protection/dp/B072J3L2JN/ref=pd_bxgy_107_img_3/136-5260954-8759003?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B072J3L2JN&pd_rd_r=07df55ef-6540-11e9-94bd-393e388bbf8d&pd_rd_w=oatjH&pd_rd_wg=05PLf&pf_rd_p=88f05819-6e09-4eaf-970e-fd581a2a2708&pf_rd_r=C8SC7MFT36MYWHRH58M6&psc=1&refRID=C8SC7MFT36MYWHRH58M6

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Looks great as its design is more flush with the windshield. I have it mounted just to the left of the rear-mirror mount and it still leaves room for the mirror to angle for the driver. Very easy to install and the wires fit into the mouldings just fine.


Have a look at the quality it produces from one of my vids here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vRKKvaS7RmM
It has a refresh rate faster than my LEDs (which is why my LEDs are flickering in the reflection).

Kenwood KMM-BT315U.

Its a media receiver meaning it doesn't play CD's.
Amazon right now for $77.


Wiring Harness Metra 70-1761 $5


Dash Kit Scosche $12

$94 before taxes.

Watch This; if you're not comfortable doing that please get it professionally installed (shop around, $80 max for labor on an install like this).

You can find Pioneer BT receivers for less also, I just like the way Kenwood looks.

The dash kit I listed will only fit a single din radio, for double din you'll need the metra kit.

Subwoofer, Amp, 8 gauge cable kit, trim removal set, Fuse taps, and T-Taps

As for a guide, I just used other guides online and pieced them together. Really should have made a well-documented one when I did it, but I installed mine 6 months ago. Already forgot certain things. Just remember to look up the speaker wire colors for the back speakers before you tap into them and know that putting the power cord through your firewall from your battery is going to be a total bitch :)

Also just to clarify, the fuse taps are for the remote wire going into the amp. I tapped the sunroof fuse as it shuts on/off with the ignition (I don't have a sunroof, but it shouldn't matter if you do or not). Also also, that black cable going into my amp on the left side is a bass knob that came with the amp. That's wired all the way up into my glove box, so it can be adjusted easily if it becomes too much. The wires with kit and everything are long enough that you shouldn't need anything else, and everything tucks away in the door seem guides so nothing is showing at all.

I just did this a couple months ago in my girlfriends car. She just bought a 2007 Honda Accord which did not have an input, so I installed one for her birthday. It's super easy. Note: The 2003 is the same setup as the 2007.

• Here's the link to the youtube video I followed. I bought the harness they advertise on the video. I looked around and many people re-sell their kit, just buy it from the website linked.
  
• I also bought this kit to run the aux input to the center console storage.
  
• I use this kit for bluetooth connectivity which you can store in the center console.
  
  $105 plus tax with the Bluetooth adapter or $75 without. I installed it in her car in about 40 minutes. It's really simple to do by yourself.
  

Get a IS32 and it will come with everything needed to flush mount it.

Alternatively you can get this module and this harness to get better than FM quality aux in.

I'd recommend using a LOC that has a signal sensing turn on built into it unless you know where your going to get your switched 12 volt to turn on your amp with. The data signal that your truck has makes aftermarket life a little more difficult than it needs to be.

I'd also caution you against buying from Amazon because they aren't a official retailer for kicker products. That means you have no guarantee you aren't getting used, refurbished, or knock off products. And if you do a new legit product it won't have a manufactures warranty on it, so if you do need to go to kicker for any kind of service they won't help you and Amazon will tell you to deal with the seller on their site you bought the product from.

I installed one of these and it works great for me. It basically plugs inline into the antenna and broadcasts directly to the antenna. Then you tube your radio to that station. I've never had a problem with it. Plus it adds a charging port in the car.

I used this cable for my 06 hatch to get an auxiliary port.

Connects to an empty socket in the back of the head unit is routed to the armrest storage. It is a lot easier to do than you would imagine. There is a few tutorials on youtube.

Good choice, best colour too! Wish they did the NC2 in green...

1. Mine have never come loose, they'll probably be fine now you've tightened them. Mine clicked a bit, but not because they were loose. I put some grease in the slot and it sorted it.
   
   
2. I've never really checked! I'd imagine they should do something, right? I'll have a look at some point, but I guess check the fuses?
   
   
3. If it's the non-Bose stereo I believe you can wire something like this in (double check compatibility first, I haven't done the proper research). If it's a Bose stereo I don't know, they've a reputation of being a pain to work with.
   
   
4. They redesigned the stereo for 2009 up models, fascia etc is different so it certainly wouldn't be a totally straightforward upgrade. Has aux in as standard, which is nice. Not sure about the rest.
   
   Other than that, if she gets fed up with the absence of variable intermittent wiper speed, then get an old wiper stalk from an RX8 on eBay and replace it, it's a 5 minute job and it makes life a lot more pleasant if you drive a lot in rain. 6 speed can be a bit notchy in 1st/2nd when it's cold, upgraded gearbox oil will fix that. Other than that just make sure the alignment's good, makes a big difference. It's a pretty bombproof car, she should have lots of hassle free driving ahead!

If you want to be really cheap you can get one of these: Linky
I had one for a while and it worked pretty good. It did break after a while but it's so cheap that you can just get another.

If you're gonna go the bluetooth route, check out this one too:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008XMV05G/

It's cord free if you can charge it once a week. Or you can leave it constantly plugged in if you prefer. Looks cleaner and works well.

Bluetooth with 3.5mm headphone output to a 4 speaker amp to the speakers.

Here is usb (5V) powered bluetooth audio adapter
http://www.amazon.com/BestDealUSA-Bluetooth-Receiver-Adapter-Speaker/dp/B00ANDHBNS

4 channel amp
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Delectronics&field-keywords=4%20channel%20amp&sprefix=4+channe%2Celectronics

You could open this up for the 12v to 5v conversion.
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2-Port-Mini-Universal-Dual-USB-Car-Charger-Adapter-Bullet-5V-2-1A-1A-Black-White/1963943155.html

This is assuming you have a solder iron and aren't afraid to engineer the wires/connecters/voltage adapter to work together.

That's exactly what it's for. The previous owner had an iphone and was sick of plugging it in when he got in the car. I have the same setup in my '10. Not exactly the same I guess, I use this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ANDHBNS/ref=redir_mdp_mobile?ref_=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_kCsitb19G4XS5

With the audio cable routed through the console to the aux input.


You say you inherited this car. Why not just ask the person you got it from??

Based on what they want, they don't need a parrot device. Could just get something like this. Could easily be hardwired in if they don't want to give up a plug.

Edit: This is an even better solution since it's meant to be hardwired and has an aux output so it doesn't need to be used as an FM modulator.

Couple things you can try.

1. Try coiling any excess length of your speaker wire. The wire is basically an antenna that’s receiving the AM signal and your speaker isn’t shielded enough so it is amplified and you hear it. Shortening the length of the wire can help.
   
   
2. You can try a ferrite and clamp one or two along the wire.

Try getting a USB cable with Ferrite beads (sometimes called "Chokes") and see if that helps.

You can also just buy the chokes and put them on your own cables

https://www.amazon.com/stardrift-10-Pack-Diameter-Ferrite-Suppressor/dp/B015RAZTIA

Probably a ground loop issue. Check that you've got a good ground connection on both the audio lead and the power connections. If possible, have the amp and PC connected to the same power bar or double socket. If that doesn't help, isolate the systems by using digital audio out if your amp has that, or use an optical ADC powered off a separate supply, or use an audio isolation transformer https://www.amazon.com/Smof-Ground-Isolator-System-Stereo/dp/B0171PQLB8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483921456&sr=8-1&keywords=3.5mm+isolation+transformer

Just gonna leave a link here to the one I got to solve this problem a while back in case anyone needs it. $8.50 and no more noise.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0171PQLB8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Just completely swap the connector to anything. https://www.amazon.com/Finware-Female-Bullet-Connectors-Battery/dp/B01ETROGP4/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1549167374&sr=1-3&keywords=xt+connector

They make these in various sizes and you could replace it again if it ever breaks.

All of the aftermarket Android units have junk audio quality and as of late there still isn't a fix for it. I use the tunai firefly bluetooth adapter and my phone connects immediately without having to do anything but press play. It's not car play or anything but certainly better than having to connect each time.

Absolutely! I can't stop recommending a dash cam in everyone's car. Having one has saved me twice in previous cars, where it's my word against theirs in a accident. I show the police officer the video and it's case closed.

I have used a few in different vehicles and my new favorite is the [Rexing V1] (https://www.amazon.com/V1-Dashboard-Recorder-G-Sensor-Recording/dp/B00X528FNE/ref=lp_10517197011_1_1?srs=10517197011&ie=UTF8&qid=1484396363&sr=8-1), I love that it uses a mounting plate instead of a suction cup. The [BlackBox G1W] (https://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-Original-Dashboard-Dash/dp/B00FONBG1A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484396572&sr=8-1&keywords=blackbox+g1w+dash+cam) is half the price and uses a suction cup, smaller screen, slightly cumbersome interface, but is still a reliable cam that I still use in two other vehicles. Be sure to buy the [Hardwire Kit] (https://www.amazon.com/Rexing-Hard-Wire-Mini-USB-Port/dp/B01LXC2329/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484396782&sr=8-1&keywords=rexing+hardwire) so you can hide the wire and not use a 12V outlet.

I tapped into 12V ignition power from the sunroof controls, others have used mirror power to feed cams. Also, be sure to only use a "Class 10" SD card to avoid file errors. You can use T-taps (see album link above for example) for a simple connection, I would only recommend using T-taps for very low power consuming devices, otherwise use butt splices (source: 10 year industrial power & controls technician)

[Here are a few photos of where I mounted the Rexing cam in my 2017 IS] (http://imgur.com/a/bKgOg)

I have a Roav C1, and it's fine but I only spent $50

If I did it over again, I'd spend a little more and get one with a capacitor instead of battery (better for high and low temps), make sure it had a rear facing camera, and could be hardwired to the fuse box. There's several of these on Amazon for under $200 these days.

Edit: something like this

Rexing V1P Pro Dual 1080p Full HD Front and Rear 170 Degree Wide Angle Wi-Fi Car Dash Cam with Built-in GPS Logger, Supercapacitor, 2.4" LCD Screen, G-Sensor, Loop Recording, Mobile App https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H4B75YL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_P.wtDbZDH7HB4

Rexing Mini-USB Hardwire Kit for V1, V1P, V1 3rd Gen Dash Cams https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXC2329/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KaxtDb3WX0CJK

I have a Rexing V1 and I am happy with it. I think I’ve had it for a year and a half now and it’s been working fine. Video quality is in line for its price range. I live in a hot part of the country and it’s held up. I imagine the rear camera version is just as good.

If you aren’t happy with it, you can always return it. But IMO it’s a good bang for the buck camera.


Also, I would recommend to get the Rexing hardwire kit with it. Super easy to instal and hides your wires. Let me know if you have any question on wiring it into your fuse box.

Dashcam

Hardwire Kit for Linked Dashcam

I use a ground loop isolator like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XQYN77L/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Works perfectly.

This is what I just got in the mail yesterday fm Bluetooth transmitter

Just get a bluetooth transmitter. Unless your using a device that doesn’t have BT. Even then I believe this will accept a USB input.

Here’s the one I use

Yep. I just bought this one and it works great: Amazon

Edit: does not support rapid charging.

Alright so what you do, is buy [this.] (http://www.amazon.com/Metra-70-1761-Wiring-Harness-Speaker/dp/B0002BEQJ8) What this allows you do to is connect your aftermarket headunit to the factory system without damaging factory wiring. It will connect to your aftermarket radio harness via soldering (perfer) or butt connectors then will just plug right into factory plug. You will have some wires left over on the Metra harness like remote turn on, unless you have a aftermarket amp, the power atenna wire, and sometimes the dimmer wire. So don't worry about that.

There are 3 different connectors that you'll have to hook up to the connector that comes with the head unit that plugs into the head unit itself. The other 3 connectors are VERY easy to install. 0 electrical engineering education, but common sense and the color coded instructions on the back of the packaging explains all you need to know.

Radio Antenna harness

Main connection (two main connectors that came out of the factory head unit)

USB Connector (if your car came with usb at the bottom right of the center console)

Should mention that the stock AUX connection won't function. You will have to run an extension from the back of the head unit to somewhere in your car. I routed mine to the left side of the passenger seat held up by this thing.


I don't use the microphone for bluetooth so that's not connected. I don't plan on using my head unit for displaying for any video sources so I didn't bother hooking up the hand brake bypass. The GPS antenna I just stuck to some metal plate that was inside the head unit cavity (pretty strong magnet and pretty accurate).

You may want to pick up a bracket like this. to fill in the rest of the head unit cavity along the sides. I'm not too sure if this is the exact one for the head unit. Crutchfield automatically told me what parts I would need to completely setup the head unit including the bracket and connectors. I couldn't find yours on the site so I can't tell you exactly which bracket to get. They're both Pioneer head units so it's worth a try. The bracket is a generic bracket made for most Toyota cavities to support double DIN sized head units. I had to do some slight Dremel work to get everything to line up with the stock mounting bracket. A solid afternoon with everything and I was set by the end of the day.

I had to contact OEM Audio Plus about how to get power to their amplifier because they have a replacement harness for the stock harness. But that's information that doesn't pertain to you unless you own their system with a subwoofer.

Tl;dr: Links 1-3 are what you need to connect everything. Link 4 is some random accessory I bought that happened to work things out. Link 5 is a bracket adapter to the stock bracket. Last link is the site that showed me all the stuff I needed and I just looked them all up on Amazon.

For general functionality of the head unit you just need Metra 70-1761 Radio Wiring... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BEQJ8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share this is what i use in my 2014 brz and the metra usb adapter. I had the pac from a prewired harness from crutchfield but it was annoying.

It depends on the car. Most cars made before 2015 or so use a standard Double Din Slot radio (With Double Din being the size of the radio) while cars older than 2000's might have a single din slot radio. All of these radio's are interchangeable and can be swapped out (Sometimes with an adapter kit). The slightly trickier part if you want to do this yourself is wiring up a harness that connects your cars electrical system (speakers/power/USB/FM radio) to the radio you want to install. You will need to find an electrical manual or a guide online to tell you which wires are for what and connect them to the corresponding wire on the new radio.

Source: Replaced the shitty radio in my old Subaru

I don't have a V, rather a Gen3 2013. I had a JVC KWAV61BT put in. Purchased on Amazon for $200 a year ago. Also got from Amazon: Steering Wheel Control Wire, Dash Kit, and Wiring Harness. Had a local shop install it for $100. I probably could have done it myself, but wanted it to look professional. Total cost of the stereo and parts was $275. Looks like Amazon has the DDX-372 for under $300.

Not sure what you decided to go with but IMO if you get a sub in your trunk then your speakers will sound like they're better. Many people on this subreddit will bash this recommendation but I'll give it anyway.

$150 prebuilt subwoofer box

$55 amplifier

$15 wiring kit

$9 optional converter

The converter is needed if your radio is stock. I also think it makes the install easier regardless as it is one set less wire to run & you won't have to take apart your headunit.

I think this is the best intro level set up for a subwoofer if you're looking to spend about $220.
It will definitely impress you if you haven't heard/had bass in a car before. Also very easy to set up and you can do it in about 3 hours with no experience.

Edit: forgot this amp comes with a built in high/low converter to feed straight off the speakers. Converter may be easier but is optional.

If you stick with the 8" (and get a good one with some nice power behind it) I personally think an 8" would do just fine.

I went through amazon, and found everything I used:

• Sub
  
  
• Amp
  
  
• Wiring Kit
  
  
• Grille
  
  
• Box Felt
  
  Like I've said elsewhere, I wish I would have taken a picture of the box I built. It wasn't vented, and was about ~25% too small, but it still sounds great.
  
  Edit: It was roughly this shape: Not to scale

I bought and installed the 10" version of this model last week in my Sonata with Kenwood DMX905S. the sub didn't come with any cables, other than the harness to connect to the sub. I ordered this kit and used rca output from the head unit. the hardest part for me was to route power wire from battery to trunk through the firewall. overall I'm very happy with the overall volume and quality of bass.

I have an 01' but Im pretty sure that this, or something similar, will work and it looks pretty stock, you also need an RCA to 3.5mm adaptor, I got this one
this thing basically bypasses your FM antenna and gives you an aux input, I put mine under the climate control and the input and switch are hidden behind the DIN pocket

it looks like the antenna size might be different in the 06(i cant really tell), but there are adaptors

Hmmm. ok i have been doing research for those things all day today, and from what i have found out. this one is one of the least glitchy units. DICE one is supposedly never works. but do your research. And if you want a dashboard mount for an AUX input. i have found this kit.

I don't own any of this, mainly because i was searching today. and secondly i don't want to install it in the winter/fall. i don't have a garage :(

You have a 2006 mustang, I'm guessing? My stereo looks just like that.

To use the aux port you'll need to do a few things.

First thing, you'll need to get an "Ford Auxiliary Input Converter". They had them on amazon a while ago, but they seem to be out of stock. Here's the one I got. It was $80 or so when I got it.

It doesn't come with the cable or the mounting kit, so I bought this at the same time.

This video shows you how to access the stereo.

Personally, I ran the cable back to the center console box and mounted the input there. Now I can plug my cellphone into the audio and power and have it out of the way.

As for the AUX jack, I bought this which plugs into the back of your stock stereo. (Which should work on your Jeep, but I would pull out your stereo to make sure the jack for it is actually there). Then I bought this and hooked everything up and it works perfectly.

Oh, nope. The 06-08 does not have an aux Jack at all. You can add one with a cable with some special connector to the back of the radio. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006FFCONA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_.U8hzbEHA4NTM

Goliton AUX 3.5mm Cable Connect iPod iPhone MP3 Phone Audio to Mazda Car Player (2 Meter Long)

I got this for my 2006 Mazda 3 Hatch, installed in like 20 minutes. Drilled a hole into my glove-box and routed it there.

Honestly, it does the job. There is a barely discernible whine noise in the background that only comes up when heavily accelerating... likely do to the extra electricity the car puts out.

This is what i have in my 06 nc

It's works really well for $10. It plugs into the back of the headunit where a CD changer would plug in. Then the Media button switches to the aux input.

There are Bluetooth to aux adapters like this that might serve your purpose.

Still a stupid move on Apple's part.

Transmitting FM radio takes special hardware that phones don't have. A very few older phones can receive FM radio, but that's it. I highly doubt you can find exactly what you described, but there are alternatives.

There are cigarette lighter Bluetooth radio transmitters, where you can use your phone to connect by Bluetooth, and the device converts Bluetooth to FM radio. You don't need a special app for that. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X9K9X1G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_P-F0AbS877RMS

If your car has an auxiliary audio jack, there are lots of Bluetooth receivers for that, and the sound quality is much better. I've bought 3 of these, for various purposes including my cars: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008XMV05G?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

My set up for my older model Jeep:

Mount is here:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7B2NV4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Charger is here:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M9TBTDM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Smaller X-grip barely fits the nexus 6 with no case, and case and you need the bigger one for Phablets. THe wirelss charger needs to be mounted on the lower end of the grip for it to pick up well.

Seems to work beautifully so far.

I have used a similar set up with my MotoX mounted here for the last year, but without the wireless charger. Oh yeah, and I also have a bluetooth audio/phone adapter mounted on the dash, which you can see on the first picture:
http://www.amazon.com/GOgroove-SMARTmini-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Streaming/dp/B008XMV05G/ref=sr_1_1?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1418506201&sr=1-1&keywords=bluetooth+car+speakerphone+smart+mini

maybe? http://www.amazon.com/GOgroove-SMARTmini-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Streaming/dp/B008XMV05G

I just ordered this one $20 cheaper and does calls and a2dp.

With this one I can hide the wires and have it on my dashboard. Ideally I wanted something I can connect directly to the car's 12v so I don't have to worry about plugging it in and out. This one has a battery and is charged through a usb-3.5mm adapter. I'll still have to power it on when getting in and out but for $29.99 I'll deal with it.

Also bonus to this one, I can unplug it from it's little mount and plug it into any 3.5mm jack (say at a friends house or party) and not have to worry about leaving my phone plugged into the stereo unattended.

http://www.amazon.com/Philips-USA-PH-62050-MD-To-Cassette-Adapter/dp/B0007R4LI8/

I have tried multiple cassette adapters and this one sounded the best to me. I pair it with this to create a bluetooth setup for my 1999 toyota. works well : http://www.amazon.com/BestDealUSA-Bluetooth-Receiver-Adapter-Speaker/dp/B00ANDHBNS/

gets both left and right channels of sound

>Here is usb (5V) powered bluetooth audio adapter http://www.amazon.com/BestDealUSA-Bluetooth-Receiver-Adapter-Speaker/dp/B00ANDHBNS[1]


I have this or something very similar in my car. my stereo actually has a usb drive hookup and an aux in, so I just plug it into the usb input for power and then plug the aux cable into the output. works great.

I've used one of these. Just tear out the 12v -> 5v step down from one of these.

I use this guy for playing movies from my laptop to get some pretty good quality sound from my home stereo. Range is only about 15 ft. reliably, but if you are on a budget, this is great. It never turns off, and is always on standby when you aren't using it. It can plug in to any USB port for power, too.

I bought one of these for my older car and couldn't be happier. It wires directly into your factory head unit so the sound quality is better than any of the 12V plug in ones I've used in the past and I can still answer calls over bluetooth if I'm listening to the radio. Not to mention it comes with a microphone and a button to switch tracks, activate google assistant, and pickup/end a call. You might need to buy an adapter for your car's antenna but once it's set up it automatically connects to BT when I start up the car and works fantastically.

FM transmitters will reduce sound quality. Bluetooth will reduce sound quality. You have both, so they're both reducing the quality of the sound.

Radio stations have huge towers to produce a strong signal, which you're picking up with the antenna of your car. The transmitter you're using produces a very weak signal, which is fine to produce a small "station" for your car, but isn't strong enough to transmit the bass and treble of audio.

So, there isn't any way to increase the quality of an FM transmitter (that I know of). Which leaves you two options.

1. Buy an aftermarket head unit for your car that has bluetooth or an auxiliary input.
   
   
2. Get an FM modulator. This is what I use in my car. It's sort of like your FM transmitter, but instead of producing a little bubble station to play audio over it you plug it in behind the radio and it takes over the stations. Instead of broadcasting a station, it's hardwired to play louder than other stations. It's CD quality audio. I'm not an audiophile, but I really like good quality sound and it sounds amazing.
   
   This is what I purchased. I've had it in my car for about 3 years and it's worked flawlessly the entire time.
   
   This one has bluetooth, but is a lot more expensive.
   
   Good luck!

Non-mobile:

• this
  
• This
  
  ^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

Picture of it installed:

http://i.imgur.com/f4fUSR2.jpg

you want these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001JT3NZK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GNHZHK2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VKQ6ECQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (Optional, if you are buying the 4100NEX)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B4PJC9K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (Optional, if you want steering wheel controls to work)

https://www.amazon.com/Metra-40-HD11-2009-Up-Antenna-Adapter/dp/B003E3MLB6/ (Optional, if you want to listen to the radio)

HU: https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-AVH4200NEX-Receiver-Motorized-Bluetooth/dp/B01D6HPMZQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520966717&sr=8-1&keywords=pioneer+4200&dpID=51eUfp1qb2L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Bypass: https://www.amazon.com/MicroBypass-Automatic-Interface-AVH-4100NEX-AVH-4200NEX/dp/B00VKQ6ECQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1520966717&sr=8-2&keywords=pioneer+4200&dpID=51x1VlAngzL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

I had the same problem with a pioneer unit and the toyota harness - the ebrake signal isn't compatible. I ended up getting a $10 override chip from amazon ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VKQ6ECQ/) and putting that inline.

You can, in theory, hack something up with a relay or by running it to other signals under the dash (check the manuals and google). I didn't feel like pulling my dash apart more so I was happy to shim it out with the chip.

I got all my harnesses from David at ae64.com. I emailed him with the details of what I was planning to do and he responded with everything I needed. It was nice to get them all from one place.

I paired his harnesses with a Maestro RR to retain the backup cam and steering wheel controls.

Remember, if you email David, he will give you a list customized to your application, but here is what I used:

Ordered from ae64.com

• 10 & 6 pin "forward" harness with plain speaker wires
  
• 28-pin aux retention harness with 3 plain SWC wires & VSS & reverse gear & parking brake leads
  
• Add male RCA and 6V power lead to 28-pin harness (to retain OEM rear camera)
  
• AX-SUBUSB2
  
• Alternate AM/FM+XM antenna feeder cord (to retain shark fin antenna)
  
  Ordered from Amazon:
  
  
• [MicroBypass Parking Brake Switch]
  (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VKQ6ECQ)
  
• SiriusXM SXV300v1
  
  Ordered from eBay:
  
  
• Maestro RR
  
  
  Hope this helps

You can get these at local stores for acoustics and electronic stores like RadioShack.

I guess you are from the US since you didn't mention another country - so, here is a Amazon.com link to some.

Newegg also has them.

If you are infact from Europe, visit http://gh.de/ .

Hope this helps! And keep on using Mumble! :)

This is the proper fix for anyone else looking!

https://www.amazon.com/stardrift-10-Pack-Diameter-Ferrite-Filter/dp/B015RAZTIA

Ferrite beads prevent interference in two directions: from a device or to a device.[1] A conductive cable acts as an antenna – if the device produces radio frequency energy, this can be transmitted through the cable, which acts as an unintentional radiator. In this case the bead is required for regulatory compliance, to reduce EMI. Conversely, if there are other sources of EMI, such as household appliances, the bead prevents the cable from acting as an antenna and receiving interference from these other devices. This is particularly common on data cables and on medical equipment.

Source wikipedia. Plus ive used many of these.

All a shielded cable is is effectively foil or another dielectric wrapped around the cord. It's pretty cheap, so as long as you buy one from a reputable dealer the chances are you're getting the real deal.

Another thing that could be tried is attaching a ferrite core to the cable. They soak up any RFI and EMI noise being inducted on the cable to a certain extent. Not a substitute for shielding, but they can help in some cases.

I have had a very similar issue before with some microphones when being fed plug-in or phantom power when the microphones didn't need it or at the incorrect voltage. I'd imagine that the G7 is putting plug-in power out the microphone input. Some cameras do let you disable that in the settings menu so worth a try if you can.

It could just be the G7 itself with internal noise issues. I havn't heard anyone complain that the G7 has such issues though, so that would be a first for me, though that sort of 'digital noise' is very common in complicated devices like PC sound cards where there's a lot of activity on the board around the preamps.

Not sure if the G7 has either of these, but if the camera does have wi-fi or bluetooth make sure those are switched off too.

I don't know, IIRC you can pretty much just hook up a plug straight to your radio with no further electronics or anything because your older radio supports that, but you'll probably still want one of these

It can either be two things:

1- a ground loop issue, which should be fixed with a ground loop isolator, like this one

2- an internal interference to your sound card caused by electro static interference when plugin the HOTAS. If so, maybe you'll need an external DAC to avoid such interference. Does maters where you plug your HOTAS (any USB port, through a USB hub, etc)?

Edit: please, have in mind that ground loop isolator can have an impact in audio quality, although, if you are using skullcandy headphones, you would probably not notice it too much.

YW!

I also use it on the UPPER part of the heatbreak (the tube that goes into the cooling block), helps transfer heat from the tube to the aluminum fins.

NEVER on the lower part that goes into the nozzle, the idea is to prevent heat creep UP the tube, adding some there would be bad, very bad. :-0

JST connectors - I don't think that they will handle the current requirements of the heater. Fine for fan & thermistor, but the heater needs a heavier plug.

I went a little overboard since I had some but this is what I used for the heater (I smoothed the sharp corners & edges):

https://smile.amazon.com/Finware-Female-Bullet-Connectors-Battery/dp/B01ETROGP4

PP

Buy some real 14 AWG silicone jacket wire, (this is what I'm using) and a set of quality XT60 connectors like these.

Ideally you want crimped ring terminals for all power leads that connect to screw terminals, putting bare wire into them isn't how they're meant to be used.

The 14 AWG has enough area so you can solder them to both positive and negative pads on the heatbed respectively, and terminate those with 1 XT60 connector. A word of advice - dismount your heatbed, flip it upside down and put it on something that can take some heat for a bit like corkboard. Heat it up to 60-80C, turn it off, then remove the stock connector and solder the wires. Otherwise you'll get nowhere trying to solder to a room temp heatsink.

The matching XT60 connector uses the same 14AWG to crimped ring terminals, going to the MOSFET board. For reference, here's one I'm using on my printer.

I only removed the power pins from my bed, I pre-cut the connector so I could leave the middle pins and connector shell for the temp sensor attached to the bed, then I could still use that to disconnect those wires. Works great because the little retaining mechanism is in the middle of the connector over the sensor wires.

Pre-tin the XT60 wire cups and the wire itself before you try to solder them together unless you've got both a beefy soldering iron and good soldering skills, otherwise your connector will end up with a faulty solder connection.

Now it's easy to disconnect the heatbed.

If it's useful, I too just got started, and built a similar drone. When it came to charging, I had to read a ton of stuff. Here's what I did (all non-referral Amazon links. you may find cheaper on banggood if you want to wait forever):

ISDT Charger

12v Power Supply

Balance Charger

To connect these up, it may be useful to have some extra XT60 plugs since the power supply won't have XT60, and neither does the balance charger.

With these optional parts, I was able to make a nice looking (and more safe) charger from the power supply, along with a 3d print available here


Voltmeter

Power plug

I found this to be a pretty fun project, and wasn't as expensive as some options I saw on HobbyKing or everywhere else. To be fair, it wasn't the cheapest option either.

This is where things get a bit weird for the Type 97. The official battery for them is wonky as fuck and requires the removal of the entire lower grip to install.

I, on the other hand, did some measuring and found these particular batteries. They fit perfectly in the grip, I'm not even kidding. Did some measurements with my calipers and these are the only batteries with the perfect proportions where you can slide the buttplate off the grip (normally reserved for the tool kit that comes with the gun) and slip it in there. However, as I'm sure you notice, you'll need to convert your gun to XT60. Not a difficult conversion, but it does require some patience, a soldering iron, and some connectors. I picked up this pack and it does me just fine

Then you’ll want a Tunai Firefly. They’re only $28 but I’m unsure if you’ll retain steering wheel controls.

This is in my ‘11 335i and it works great. I also have a mpow noise reducer and a USB hub for charging this and my phone.

TUNAI Firefly Bluetooth Receiver: World's Smallest Wireless Audio Bluetooth 4.2 Adapter with 3.5mm AUX for Car/Home Stereo Music Streaming; Auto On, No Charging Needed - Car Kit (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HDO66NK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HfMgDbWJ18871

https://lmgtfy.com/?q=bluetooth+receiver+that+turns+on+automatically

In all seriousness though, it does seem like the top two results will do what you want:

one

two

I had one of these for a while, but the buttons and the charging were annoying me. And then the battery started expanding (from the hot cold of the car, I assume) so I bought one of these. Connects instantly, does one thing and one thing well. A little more pricey but definitely worth it IMO

https://www.amazon.com/TUNAI-Firefly-Smallest-Bluetooth-Streaming/dp/B01HDO66NK/ref=sr_1_3?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1539780992&sr=1-3&keywords=firefly+bluetooth

ah hah... No I'm just a shitty american. We get weak 120/60hz.

What I can tell you though, in my car I get a feedback loop. I have to use a ground noise isolated to filter out the crap. But this should only occur when you have the phone and speakers powered by the same power source. I doubt it will work in your case since your headphones aren't powered, but it's worth a look I suppose https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01JUOWB2Q/. But if it's not changing with volume then I would think that it is a floating ground more than it's some sort of short in your phone.

Is your phone plugged in for recharging? In my car, I'll get buzzing through my speakers if my phone is plugged in the aux port while charging off the car's power. A ground loop noise isolator (less than $10 on amazon) resolves this issue. This may help your problem, too.

I've been having a similar problem. Some research lead me to 'ground loops'. It can be a static-y hum often times. Try a Ground Loop Isolator of some kind. I have xlr and this sorta worked for me. A cheap way to test an otherwise expensive issue. If you're not using xlr, you can try more common methods for cars. There's also cutting it off at the source by using an ac jack isolator. Or if you can't afford that, try using noise reduction plug ins from other DAWs. I use isotope to remove my noise now. It's pricey, sure, but it's 10000% worth its price. A beautiful piece of software that's perfect for my processing when I'm not using Reaper or Audacity.

If you're talking about that weird static noise, you can solve it by picking up a ground loop isolator, which gets rid of the noise.

The camera is an alright camera, but the price is way too high for what you seem like you need.

Will you set up the speed camera alerts through your wifes phone? Does she speed?

If you're only looking for video as the main feature, save yourself the $$ and get one of these Rexings. You can go even cheaper with this Aukey, which has good quality video and it is discrete.

Also, you can easily hardwire it into your wife's car using a kit like this,

If you get one, also get the TAP adapter, and the Hardwire kit. They're pretty cheap.

Using this, I ran the hardwire kit up behind the rear view mirror, behind the headliner, down the plastic on the A pillar, and back behind the kickpanel and into the fuse box with the TAP adapter. I can't remember which fuse I used without looking but it's wired into one where the camera automatically comes on whenever the accessory is active or the truck is running. When I turn off the truck, the camera turns off, automatically. I don't have to do anything except clear off the saved videos once every 6 months or so.

I heard those work too. The setup I had was similar to this

This one, but I'd imagine they're all pretty similar. Kinivo is another good brand.

You'll mostly likely need a ground loop isolator in the car to prevent that whining noise caused by the cars electrical system. The one I linked comes with one.

Yeah, I wouldn't let tech influence your decision too much, OP.

Bluetooth is super easy to add after the fact. I installed one of these in my Acura after the BT module died. It's unobtrusive, handles calls like a champ, streams music/podcasts flawlessly, and even interfaces with the "OK Google" voice commands on my Android smartphone. Oh, and it was $25.

As for keyless entry, yeah it's nice but it's the kind of feature I care about on my wife's minivan. For a hot hatch like the Mini, base your selection on the essentials of the driving experience.

Ground loop isolator.


BESIGN Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XQYN77L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AvE0DbTN81KRK

The only way you'll get it to auto on/off is if you hardwire it in. Which is super easy.

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B072J3L2JN/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_6rIPBbHPMWDWA

Is what I used. It's good little camera for the price. The quality is pretty good for watching on your phone..but I found it you try to take the video on to the computer it gets worse.

Just made me chuckle when I saw the little gray box while looking your truck over. Very nice man.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B072J3L2JN?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image

I don't know why you bought such expensive kit and why such problem. Here is what I used to hook up my aukey dashcam. I got mine done in under 1 hour.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072J3L2JN/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K7OHDKS?ref_=ams_ad_dp_ovrl
https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-FM-Transmitter-Wireless-Hands-Free/dp/B073S62S65/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1519770212&sr=8-17&keywords=bluetooth+adapter

like these ones?

I didnt know these worked for older models...

There's always this sort of thing https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anker-Soundsync-Bluetooth-Connection-Headphones/dp/B07H5C2BQX/ref=asc_df_B07H5C2BQX/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=310732907163&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8808868001918210489&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-570064469753&psc=1

Not sure if this is what you’re after, but I use this to connect my phone wirelessly to my PA system.

Anker Soundsync A3352 Bluetooth Receiver

I installed this in my 01 Corolla a couple weeks ago. It fits in the stock mounting bracket and has AUX, BT and USB. All you will need to install it is this wiring harness, a set of crimp caps and a wire stripper/crimp tool.

The hardest part is wiring the new head unit to the wiring harness. The actual installation should take 10 minutes.

http://priuschat.com/threads/stealth-install-an-aftermarket-stereo-in-prius.38700/

This provides all the info needed for the most part. I ordered the stereo from Crutchfield and it came with the OEM to aftermarket wiring harness needed, but I also needed to buy an additional harness to avoid the dreaded red triangle resulting from some installs. There is a way to fix this with a resistor but the harness seems to be more reliable.

Stereo: JVC KD-R950BT

Wiring Harnesses: Metra 70-1761:
http://www.amazon.com/Metra-70-1761-Wiring-Harness-Speaker/dp/B0002BEQJ8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398123517&sr=8-1&keywords=Metra+70-1761

Best Kits BHO1761 OEM Radio Wire Harness:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0088TNGRE/ref=pe_385040_30332190_TE_3p_M3T1_ST1_dp_1

OK. So here is where I am. I have decided to first work on installing an aftermarket DOUBLE-DIN head unit with Bluetooth wireless speakerphone, Aux-in, etc. (and I will do the amp + subwoofer in the next phase).

So far I've purchased:

1. Dash Kit which is apparently appropriate for my 1999 Lexus LS400: Scosche LS2085B
   
2. Wire Harness Kit which someone on Amazon reported worked flawlessly for an aftermarket stereo in their 1998 Lexus LS400: [Metra 70-1761 Radio Wiring Harness] (http://www.amazon.com/Metra-70-1761-Wiring-Harness-Speaker/dp/B0002BEQJ8/ref=cm_srch_res_rtr_3)
   
   Now (I believe) the only thing left for me to purchase is a double-din aftermarket head unit. Do you happen to know of any that would be compatible with this setup? Or am I pretty much able to use any head unit I want because I've installed a dash kit?
   
   Thank you so, so, so much. I can't tell you how much your help means.

Then for the receiver:

http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-DEH-X4800BT-In-Dash-Bluetooth-Receiver/dp/B01463VLLI?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

and finally the harness:

http://www.amazon.com/Metra-70-1761-Wiring-Harness-Speaker/dp/B0002BEQJ8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

All set?

EDIT: You also mentioned deadening. What would you recommend?

Also at the back of my car under the rear window is two speaker panels. I imagine those are the subs?

House?

Car- 2017 Toyota 86

HU - https://www.pioneer.com.au/shop/car/avh-zl5150bt/

Harness- Metra 70-1761 Radio Wiring... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BEQJ8?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

If you want it to be easy as possible, you can use one of these (and you'll need to pick up a maestro sw or rr):

https://www.amazon.com/AutoHarnessHouse-Aftermarket-Installation-compatible-2016-2019/dp/B07GD8627K/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=autoharnesshouse+brz&qid=1573219865&sr=8-1

​

That covers the steering wheel controls and camera, antenna amp, and factory amp. You'll need to add a pin and wire on the harness (it's included) to power up the factory amp and door speakers. Also, ignore the instructions included on the two 5-pin connectors - just connect the two on the harness together if it's not shipped as such. If you want to try to keep costs down and make your own, you'll need to wire in a voltage converter for the camera power feed.

You'll also need the standard Toyota harness for the rest of the speakers. You can use one of AutoHarnessHouse direct connect Pioneer ones, or just make your own a little cheaper. I believe this is the part, but please double check - I don't have the part number handy right now (You can actually get these at Best Buy, it's in their computer system):
https://www.amazon.com/Metra-70-1761-Wiring-Harness-Speaker/dp/B0002BEQJ8/ref=sr_1_1?crid=344R0OVLJ7ACT&keywords=metra+toyota+harness&qid=1573220037&sprefix=metra+toyo%2Caps%2C155&sr=8-1

​

For the 4500, I also recommend either wiring up their GPS antenna, or just using an adapter for the OEM one (I went this route just to keep things clean). This pack contains the correct adapter (it's the one with the bright green end, maybe you can find it standalone cheaper):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K03PORU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

If you don't hook up the GPS antenna, the head unit will throw up an error message every time you start up a navigation app in AndroidAuto (it'll still work, it's just annoying).

Lastly, don't forget an antenna adapter and (optionally the OEM USB port adapter cable). I opted not to use the USB port since I have a high speed charger that uses a 12v socket. Same as above, please double check this to make sure it is the right one, but here's what the antenna adapter looks like:

https://www.amazon.com/Metra-40-LX11-Antenna-Adaptor-Select/dp/B00JYHSDKO/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp?keywords=toyota+antenna+adapter&pd_rd_i=B00JYHSDKO&pd_rd_r=aae8b955-0220-497c-bcd6-480183748bd8&pd_rd_w=bmQ4P&pd_rd_wg=7ZU9O&pf_rd_p=a6d018ad-f20b-46c9-8920-433972c7d9b7&pf_rd_r=F20PSH58JCQN60PP1T5G&qid=1573220626

You'll need to wire in the blue wire to power the antenna amp. Don't hook it up to a constant 12v feed (yello), either use a switched feed, or wire it to the matching blue feed on the back of the harness (it's the one that feeds out of the two pins jumped together by a blue wire).

​

Sorry I can't be 100% on the last couple of adapters - if you have trouble confirming feel free to DM me and I will be happy to check when I get home from work, I kept the packaging for later reference, and again, Best Buy does have these in their computer, so even if your local one doesn't carry them, they should at least be able to give you the part number.

I don't have RDS, but I do have the JBL Synthesis system, that looks like this.

That said, I have some confusion with the wiring harness...

1. Do I NEED to pick up a JBL wiring harness just so that I can use the factory amp/sub?
   
2. Can I use the regular wiring harness like this one, or will I need to pick up another one?
   
   
   Thanks
   
   

yea maybe.... Next time buy the wire harness for your car...They are like 3 bucks

Example

Do yourself a favor and get a reverse harness set from something like Metra. It'll break out the connections into bare wires in fairly standard color coding. Yellow is hot +12V, Red is switched +12V, Black is Ground, Blue is amp +12V, etc.

Metra Harness Set

Antenna Adapter

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GD8627K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 this is the harness i used, has the reverse 6v signal already to go. all you need us usb retention https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DJ4KVQ6/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

then the speaker harness. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BEQJ8/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and lastly the antenna harness https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VYWSES/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

these were all the things i used to wire in my kenwood. besides the tool to keep steering wheel buttons https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J4W10XG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

the autoharnesshouse harness makes it easy to use the maestro by the way. hope this helped. i have a 2017 wrx by the way so i dont know if there is a difference with 2015 and the new 2018+s

Would this work?

https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Amplifier-Installation-Performance-Interconnect/dp/B000FKP7TY/ref=pd_bxgy_107_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HG0BFVWRYVJPPEVND6FA

I have this one

And used this install kit

It's cheap, has an integrated amp, has it's own enclosure, and kicks hard (get lots of compliments, even at 1/3 power).

Additionally, I like the fact I can remove it fairly easily by using disconnects on my wires. I have a hatch, so whenever I need the space I can get it out in 20 seconds.

[This](BOSS Audio KIT2 8 Gauge Amplifier Installation Wiring Kit – A Car Amplifier Wiring Kit Helps You Make Connections and Brings Power To Your Radio, Subwoofers and Speakers https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000FKP7TY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VwCBCb6S7WHR4) might be the exact kit I used

I bought this kit and it works great.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Rockville-RXC4D-Digital-Capacitor-Voltage/dp/B019Z3RISY/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Farad%2BCar%2BCapacitor&qid=1555656720&s=electronics&sr=1-1&th=1

​

and this wire kit.

​

https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-Audio-Amplifier-Installation-Wiring/dp/B000FKP7TY/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=amp%2Bwire%2Bkit&qid=1555657108&s=electronics&sr=1-4&th=1

​

Mine came with 2 audio cables but it's the same kit.

You need to run an 8 gauge wire kit with a fuse matching that of the amp directly from the battery. Separate from that you can run a little 18 gauge or 16 from the 12v socket. This is a single wire and only connects to the "remote" terminal. You wire it there so it turns on and off with the ignition

Sample kit
https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-Audio-Amplifier-Installation-Wiring/dp/B000FKP7TY

Heres a tight 2k system in your budget, you'll be the envy of everyone.

http://www.amazon.com/Quantum-BPW10D-Inferno-10-Inch-Subwoofer/dp/B0002YE2TE/ref=sr_1_11?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1376060914&sr=1-11&keywords=2000+watts

http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Systems-IMP2000M-Monoblock-Amplifier/dp/B0077IAEOA/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1376060996&sr=1-4&keywords=2000+watt+amp

http://www.amazon.com/SainSpeed-Audio-Stereo-Player-Single/dp/B00DVGHX9G/ref=sr_1_18?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1376061033&sr=1-18&keywords=car+radio

http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PLG6C-6-5-Inch-400-Watt-Component/dp/B0007LCLPE/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1376061070&sr=1-4&keywords=pyle+6.5+speakers

http://www.amazon.com/KIT-2-Complete-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B000FKP7TY/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1376061086&sr=1-1&keywords=amp+wiring+kit

I woooould go with the 4 ga kca, if i didnt personally have this amp, but i do and thats going to be an absolute bitch to connect, if you are mounting it under the seat get one of these and cut the wire in half and double it back. if your putting it in the trunk buy two and use both.

I found something pretty inexpensive like this? BOSS Audio KIT2 8 Gauge Amplifier Installation Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FKP7TY/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_2mpcvb0C9ZYR2

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PJ1VL8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Equalizer:26$

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004TU5R1E?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_3&smid=A1FMHNVWMGI839

2 speakers: 46$

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004S4XNEO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_4&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Amp: 46$

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FKP7TY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Wiring: 16$


Would you mind reviewing this then? I know it's not going to make the ground shake, but it will be a lot better then an 86's stock audio, and it has room to upgrade.

Awesome- thanks for the write-up. Here's the list I had assembled that everyone shit on in /r/carAV:

amp

front speakers



subs

rear speakers

wiring:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BEQWK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_4&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FKP7TY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_image_5&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BF0DE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Didn't pick out a head unit yet. Are these choices as bad as carAV said?

If you haven't already, look into the Clarion M508. A lot of folks that don't like the look of modern aftermarket stereos like those. Run a Google Image search on it, and you'll see they look right in place and period correct in older cars like ours.

But if you're really set on keeping the stock stereo, and just want AUX. Assuming your LS has the unit with the CD player, you can buy this here. It plugs into the CD Changer hole in the back of the stock stereo, then converts that to two RCA inputs. Which then, you can buy this to convert the two RCA's to AUX.

You can then mount that AUX port somewhere of your choosing. This Integra owner mounted it on their center console.

Sorry little lady. Well.. depends how into your cars audio system are you, do you really care how it sounds(I.e Planning for future upgrades), or are you just wanting a quick fix?

Something like this would be super quick and easy, if your radio has RCA inputs on the back.

Question, do you know which radio it is? Base, Premium etc.

A lot of older cars - before 3.5mm jack ports and USB ports came standard - had the Aux button on the radio unit that simply gave the option to get the signal for an additional RCA audio ports in the back of the radio unit. These were used for headrest DVD players, CD Changers, etc. In theory, your radio would have RCA audio ports that would transfer the signal by using your Aux button on your dash. However, to make that work of you, you would need to install the RCA extension and install the 3.5mm input jack to be able to use it.

Used these parts:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003B01AHS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_J4zPwbXMRS8WJ


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008219OQ0/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_y.zPwb5VZZ0RN

Following this video:

https://youtu.be/wmqZkw8hK7M



Only thing I did differently was use the dash mountable female 3.5mm jack, I just drilled a hole through plastic on the face plate, making sure not to hit the PCB

Can't offer any help on what you bought, but can recommend the approach I took to this....

FM Modulator

Pair that with a Bluetooth receiver and you can even have Bluetooth music at the flip of a switch. Have been using it for years, works excellent

Edit:

You'll probably also need this too... look into it... relatively easy install

This is on a mazdaspeed6, which has a cubby box with a lid above the stereo on the dash. That's where I stuck my plugs. I bought the car used in February and it already had the mazda adapter cable, so I don't know which one it is, sorry :(

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003B01AHS/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

that's the 3.5 mm panel mount I used, its pretty much an extension cable with a mountable end that you stick in a hole you drill in the plastic, then I glued it in place with epoxy. The other end plugs into the mazda adapter cable.

haha get at them rotary sloots!

YES! turns out that AUX button is for a 9-pin port for adding a cassette player. I have previously did the same thing you wanted to do so i bought this converter and used this as the input. it hides well behind the radio and the only problem is finding where to put audio input. I personally drilled a hole into the middle console far right of the coin slots, if you have that.

also to note that the converter linked isnt a purchasable link. but used to give you a bit of an idea what to get

Could get an aftermarket stereo. Unfortunately the harness alone is $100 if you have the factory amp, $50 if not, so that alone may turn you away from the idea.

These are pretty cool too.

These work pretty well. You still need to select an FM channel to use it on but when you power up the unit it cuts the actual radio signal. Its as clear as a direct AUX input.

http://www.amazon.com/iSimple-IS32-Universal-Integration-Smartphones/dp/B004613FCE

/thread

lol. Most shops will charge $75-100 to install it. Not difficult to do yourself but can be time consuming.

Bestbuy has it at their store for $140 with the install included!

I bought this for my Honda Accord:

http://www.amazon.com/iSimple-IS32-Universal-Integration-Smartphones/dp/B004613FCE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426779745&sr=8-1&keywords=isimple+tranzit

It works very well, in my opinion. It's an FM modulated aux input, but it's all hardwired so even though it's technically using radio and transmit it doesn't sound like it. Plus you have multiple mounting options. You can either use their bracket/enclosure, or you can drill holes and mount them wherever you want to make a custom look. Install was very easy, the hardest part I had was trying to figure out which wire to use as a power source. It also gives you a USB plug to plug your device into for charging.

This should work for you

I wired this into my last Crown Vic. It worked well and it allowed me to replace the "Airbag off" light in front of the passenger into a USB port for charging. I didn't end up using their mounting plate, instead opting to dremel a small hole for the switch and another for the port into the trim surrounding my trunk release button. It takes over a radio station, you flip the switch to block out other radio signal and it's nice and clear.

You need these things and to remove the radio real quick which is not hard (find a YouTube video)

Adapter

Kinivo BTC450 Bluetooth Car Kit (Hands-Free Car Adapter, Bluetooth to 3.5mm Aux Adapter,Apt-X) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NLTW60/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dxioDbVM3C12N


Aux cord kit

Goliton AUX 3.5mm Cable Connect iPod iPhone MP3 Phone Audio to Mazda Car Player (2 Meter Long) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006FFCONA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OxioDbYJ4RWJE


Ground Loop Isolator (also is female to female so you can plug the BT kit into the aux which are both male plugs)

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_UyioDbT8PYX2B

[this is what I used for connecting auxillary in] (https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B006FFCONA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gv55Ab012FSMZ) the stock radio should have the same connectors on the back for either a 6cd player or satellite radio.


After connecting this you could get a higher quality Bluetooth reciever to plug into the auxillary input, and the cable is long enough to reach wherever you would want it to go. However, unless it plugs into your lighter socket, you most likely will have to turn the Bluetooth reciever on when you turn your car on.

I bought this

Some people on Amazon complained about the aux hissing but I haven't heard it yet. Although the quietness of it does bother me, I may buy a separate amp/DAC to amplify the signal to the radio, it's frustrating to turn it up to 34 (max) when a couple of notches higher would make it perfect volume for any speed.

Goliton AUX 3.5mm Cable Connect iPod iPhone MP3 Phone Audio to Mazda Car Player (2 Meter Long) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006FFCONA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JeEUCb8WXMTKY. This is the one I bought for my 08

Well on my 06 the bose headunit has a plug for satellite radio that you can buy an adapter for on amazon to convert it into an aux port. Not sure if your year has that or not.

https://www.amazon.com/Goliton-3-5mm-Connect-iPhone-Player/dp/B006FFCONA

I totally gutted the blose system from my car minus the headunit. Speaker blew out and would’ve cost $150 to replace, or $300 for aftermarket everything

Here is the one i'm using:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006FFCONA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I added an aux port to my 2006 not too long ago. A ground loop isolator is a must otherwise you'll get a lot of background noise during acceleration and when you charge your device.

I got these parts:

Goliton aux cable for Mazda

3.5mm feed-thru panel mount jack

ground loop isolator

The combination works perfectly. I drilled a hole in the center between the cigarette lighter and the passenger airbag light. There is plenty of space behind it and the part is pretty cheap (less than $20) to buy used on ebay if I must return the car to stock configuration.

Are you sure?
In my 06 all i had to do was pull the unit out and directly plug in the adaptor and a filter and I had aux.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006FFCONA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So the Soundbot turns on with the car? I have a GoGroove SMARTMini AUX and the one annoyance I have with it is the fact that I have to manually turn it on whenever I get into my car. First world problems amirite

You can add bluetooth to any car for about $20 with something like this: https://www.amazon.com/GOgroove-SMARTmini-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Streaming/dp/B008XMV05G

Somewhat outside the box suggestion but if you've got an aux port in your car you could just do this instead....

http://www.amazon.com/GOgroove-SMARTmini-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Streaming/dp/B008XMV05G/ref=sr_1_1?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1412831961&sr=1-1&keywords=go+groove+smart+mini

Okay, I guess I was not hallucinating: https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Receiver-Adapter-Handsfree-GOgroove/dp/B008XMV05G

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008XMV05G/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_oYVNub0NHB8BT and there are plenty of cheaper knock offs on ebay.

http://www.amazon.com/GOgroove-SMARTmini-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Streaming/dp/B008XMV05G This is what you're looking for.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008XMV05G/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?qid=1416782429&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

I bought this bad boy for my wife's car and paired it with [this set of bluetooth buttons] ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KPZN5UC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1416782490&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40) . The pair together are nearly as good as having it natively in your car.

I prefer this one. It's dirt cheap and does exactly what I want such as streaming Google Play Music and the occasional phone call.

FWIW I bought one of these for my truck and it works great:

http://www.amazon.com/BestDealUSA-Bluetooth-Receiver-Adapter-Speaker/dp/B00ANDHBNS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397486220&sr=8-1&keywords=bluetooth+to+3.5

I just plug it into a USB spot and then run the 3.5 into my aux port.

Not for $15, but for $30 I got one of these: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A6F31EQ/ref=pe_385040_30332200_pe_309540_26725410_item

Thing I like about it is that it's reversible. Flip it to transmit and it makes any stereo player a bluetooth source. Flip it to receive and it makes any headphones bluetooth.

Edit: when I followed the link and saw the "others have bought" I found these two:

http://www.amazon.com/BestDealUSA-Bluetooth-Receiver-Adapter-Speaker/dp/B00ANDHBNS/ref=pd_tcs_compl_e_10?ie=UTF8&refRID=1SC15964SGJ9RRJGVSCE
and
http://www.amazon.com/SoundBot%C2%AE-Bluetooth-Universal-Transmitter-Compatible/dp/B00F25Z0FS/ref=pd_tcs_compl_pc_10?ie=UTF8&refRID=1S9V0AJDST7GX10S29YE


There's a bluetooth dongle for the laptop and bluetooth receiver for the earbuds for a total of $14.

>bad sound quality, bad drivers, disconnects randomly, etc

Wireless in a nutshell.
IMO get proper headphones, then get something like this. Although this will ruin the sound-quality, it'll do what you're asking for.
I've had a wireless headset myself. After getting proper DAC+Headphones I'll never go back to wireless.

http://www.amazon.com/BestDealUSA-Bluetooth-Receiver-Adapter-Speaker/dp/B00ANDHBNS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415821693&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+bluetooth+audio

http://www.amazon.com/OPSO-Charger-Portable-Vehicle-Adapter/dp/B009O4BXGS/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1415821750&sr=8-13&keywords=car+usb

I use this in my civic and it works great.

I'd recommend something like this adapter (link) just to be safe

I have been using This One in my car for over a year and works great. The plastic is a bit flimsy but I dont care since this is tucked away in my center console and is never touched.

If you're interested, here's the one I bought: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANDHBNS/ref=oh_details_o04_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I lied, it's closer to 10 bucks actually. But a few key things about it is that it has no battery and needs to be plugged into a USB port to run. Whether that be a computer or cheap wall charger doesn't matter.

On the plus side, because it has no battery, it's always on and doesn't have power-off power saving features. This is nice so you can stick it in an awkward place behind a stereo system out of sight and not have to worry about turning it on again after x amount of time of inactivity.

Edit: it says iPhone/iPad and stuff, but it should work fine with anything that does Bluetooth audio. Like I said it works great for me with my tablet, a Nexus 7.

I bought a cheap USB powered bluetooth receiver that I plug into my stereo. Sounds great. My only complaint is that when the Vita is connected to the bluetooth stick it disables the volume buttons and sends a fixed signal, so I have to control the volume on my stereo.

http://amzn.com/B00ANDHBNS

Edit: I know there are also iPod 30-pin bluetooth adapters out there as well, but I haven't settled on one to try yet. Would be good for repurposing some old iPod docks.

I wouldn't put that much money and time into it for a year. I would just get one of these especially since you won't get the money back when you sell it, but if you must $500 is doable go to crutchfeild.com put your car model in and it will give you everything you need head unit amp speakers etc. You may pay more then say amazon but you will get life time support setting it up, issue etc.

If you want the absolute easiest setup look into the isimple products. Tap into the power and ground from your factory head unit and plug in the fm signal interrupter, then run the wires where you want them to hang out.
With the proper tools and a little bit of background info you'll be done in 30 minutes or less

Link for device with bluetooth. Others are cheaper without.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FRU5UNA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_BPQBxbV29A62T

I've got a 2004 Mazda 6 Sport Wagon also.

Last January (Jan 2017 I think, but might have been 2016) I installed a Grom Audio "Mazda 02-08 USB Android iPod iPhone Bluetooth AUX car kit" - Model# MAZU3 device.

I also purchased and installed the Bluetooth dongle & Aux-In/USB Charging adapter cable.

Installation required me to remove the OEM stereo and make a minor modification to it (hardest part of that was actually opening the cage of the stereo itself, in order to get to the circuit board).

Then the Grom device plugs in to the socket on the back of the OEM stereo that would be used by the optional factory CD changer.

The Grom 'impersonates' the CD changer, so the stereo thinks it is playing a CD from the CD changer when you are listening to the Grom

PROS:

• Finally I have satisfactory Bluetooth hands-free phone capability in the car.
  
  
• I can wirelessly stream music (from any source) from my phone to the car stereo. I primarily use this for SiriusXM, but can also listen to music stored on the phone, or Spotify/Pandora/iHeartRadio, whatever.
  
  
• I've paired Windows Phones and an iPhone 7+ to the car, with no problems. I assume an Android phone would work equally well but haven't tried one myself.
  
  
• When I originally installed the Grom unit I loaded up a pretty large USB stick with music. LOTS of albums, lots of songs. I believe I stuck to Grom's documented requirements regarding directory structures and filenames. I can listen to the music from the USB.
  
  
• I've never actually used the Aux-In, but it exists and I assume it will work just fine.
  
  CONS:
  
• Due to the design of the system and how it interfaces to the car stereo there is no audible indication you are receiving a phone call if you aren't already listening to the Grom. I.e., if you're listening to a CD or the radio then you will only know you're receiving a phone call if you see the phone display that there is an incoming call. On my phone, at least, if the phone is in the car and paired to the Grom than the phone won't ring audibly (because it is ringing via the Grom), and so if you aren't listening to the Grom you don't know a call is coming in.
  
  
• No display other than the car's factory LED strip above the HVAC vents. So you can't see who is calling you other than by looking at your phone screen. You can't see any text description of whatever music is being played.
  
  
• Navigating the file structure of the USB stick is inconsistent & unpredictable. I've given up trying to figure it out, and just concluded that since I like all of the music I loaded on the stick (after all, if I didn't like it I wouldn't own it or have put it on the stick) I just listen to the music as it plays and don't worry about it too much. It makes it impossible to go find a particular song though.
  
  
• Occasionally the full system (phone - car stereo - Grom, don't know or care where to assign the blame) will effectively get confused and either I'll hear music coming from the USB stick and my phone, or the system won't be able to play a physical CD, or the system won't switch from the USB to the phone. When this happens the only solution is to force a reset by turning the car off and then restarting the car. This only happens rarely, but it does happen.
  
  **
  **
  I think Grom should:
  
  

• not charge extra for the additional cables/dongles I used. They add up, and feel like a lot of nickel-and-diming to get the full capabilities of the system.
  
  
• provide (and for this I'd accept it being an optional, extra cost upgrade) a small display that could be plugged in to the Grom unit, with a pass-through for the currently existing wires, that would be used to display song or incoming call information. I'd think this is something that could be done easily using something like a Raspberry Pi, but I'm not a software dev, don't know anything about writing device drivers, and wouldn't know how to fabricate the hardware necessary to plug in to the existing hardware plugs. But conceptually it seems reasonable, and it seems to me that Grom already has the engineers that would know how to do this. I wish it existed.
  
  ==============
  ==============
  
  
  Within the last week I learned of two competing products that I am seriously considering for another car I own.
  
  

1. the iSimple BluHF.
   https://www.amazon.com/iSimple-Hands-Free-Calling-Streaming-Smartphones/dp/B00FRU5UNA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521602988&sr=8-1&keywords=isimple+bluetooth&dpID=41nW9mERuUL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
   
   This is a similar product to the Grom, but instead of plugging in to the CD port of the stereo and impersonating the CD changer it uses the FM antenna port and sends its output through the stereo's FM receiver. To use it you switch your radio to a predetermined FM frequency.
   
   I suspect this would be more reliable than Grom's method, at least with the 2004 Mazda stereo.
   
   
   
2. The Parrot MKI 9200.
   https://www.amazon.com/Parrot-MKi9200-Advanced-Bluetooth-Hands-Free/dp/B001IA3SZ0/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Mazda%7C80&Model=Miata%7C1110&Year=1996%7C1996&ie=UTF8&n=1077068&s=car&vehicleId=2&vehicleType=automotive
   
   I like the Parrot unit a lot. It looks like it would be great, and I'm willing to shell out the $$$ for it. It actually inserts itself between the stereo and the speaker wires themselves, so it will work regardless of what source you're listening to - doesn't matter if you're listening to the radio, a CD, etc...
   
   My concern with the Parrot though is that I see many reviews that state it worked great for 6 months - 2 years, and then crapped out, and the company provided horrible service when that occurred. So I'm reluctant to get one of these.
   
   Hope the above helps you decide what you do going forward.
   
   

Well, I'll update my own thread.

The best rated cord I could find on Amazon was this one, liked it because it was the higest rated cable of its type.

Head over to the car audio place, they said it would be $75 to replace the cable. After they tear out the current set up, found out that I had an original iPod interface box behind my stereo. Kinda looks like this

Downside is the 30-pin cable is a din interface, and not a USB like I thought. So either I could order the right cable and wait a week or have something else installed.

Ended up getting the Tranzit Blue HF kit installed for $200 total. Phone connects to the box via Bluetooth and then the box transmits on an FM station you select through the app. They also installed a button and a mike on the dash to control the app. If you have the transmitter on it drowns out most other FM stations, so a 4-second hold on the button will turn it on so I can stream from my phone or turn off to listen to AM/FM. The kit also auto-connects to my phone and Siri works great with it.

The last option would be to have an aftermarket stereo installed that has a bluetooth connection, but also a USB interface and an AUX interface. The downside here is the steering wheel controls wouldn't be operational with them and would require yet another aftermarket kit to have the volume/channel up/down buttons work. That cost was around $450.

So mildly more than what I wanted to pay, but it's been working well since I've gotten it. Nice to be able to listen to music/podcasts without a distracting hiss.

No contest winner is going to be the iSimple TranzitBlu. This is a hardwired FM modulator. Minimal installation and works on every head unit. Zero static, no FM bullshit. Autoconnects when you start the car. I've installed probably 100 of them.

https://www.amazon.com/iSimple-ISFM23-Universal-Bluetooh-Transmitter/dp/B00DHQ6K7Q/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=tranzit+blu&qid=1555077821&s=gateway&sr=8-2

If you want a version that does handsfree calling too, here ya go.

The ONLY issue/complaint I've had on them is switching between paired devices. It can be done, but folks don't understand the timing required (since there's no screen to guide them). But if you're just going to pair one phone to it and always use one phone, it's flawless.

I bought this, it's a Bluetooth receiver that connects to the your stereo via the antenna connection. Works fine but not the greatest range in terms of audio quality, but a cheap option to get you by until you find an aftermarket stereo that you can't live without.

Yea i had a similar issue. I have an amazing integrated sound system so can change it out. I ended up getting this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FRU5UNA

Works great. But totally understand you waiting for a proper setup

I never tried to play music with an SD card. I do have a bypass installed. I know with the 4200 there is a different bypass module that you need. Did you make sure you got the right one?

Edit. This is the one I have MicroBypass Parking Brake Switch Fully Automatic Video in Motion Interface for Pioneer AVH-4100NEX AVH-4200NEX https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VKQ6ECQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6IlgAbHPR7ZVZ

Edit : nevermind didn't see that you already linked it lol

Which cables have you tried? Did you use any on the list on the pioneer website? Have you tried enabling USB debugging like some forums say?

MicroBypass Parking Brake Switch Fully Automatic Video in Motion Interface for Pioneer Model AVH-4100NEX https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VKQ6ECQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_lvQCxbNCTX540

This worked for me.

May not be compatible with your unit so do some research

Grounding was a common workaround for head units with nav systems that required the car to be in park to enter an address or generally be useful. The manufacturers caught on to people just permanently grounding the parking brake wire to trick the head unit so they got a little smarter by checking to see if the parking brake toggles when the car is started.
There are specialized parking brake bypasses that simulate the parking brake toggle, here's one listed for the 4100-NEX. If OP tried grounding or the wire isn't hooked up in the first place this might be the ticket.

i have this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VKQ6ECQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2 steps:

1. before turning ignition, I check voltage (+) and Remote wire. Verified 12V
   
2. After turning ignition, checked (+) and Remote, and the voltage is 0.
   
   I have a parking brake bypass installed that connects to blue-white (Remote), Ground (black) and Left Rear Speaker (Green).
   
   I am suspicious that the bypass is grounding the remote signal causing the woofer to not turn on.
   
   Will remove the bypass and try again.
   
   For nice bare metal, should I just sand the paint off in a small area and ground it to the metal with a self-tapping screw? Will watch some videos to get that done correctly.

>S-Video consists of two video components, luma and chroma. The checkerboard pattern you often see with poorly-built cabling is caused by the chroma component not being fully separated from the luma component and causing interference. Sounds like your thinner cable is better than your thicker one.


So is this caused by a lack of shielding or the lack of a ferrite bead?


If it's the lack of a ferrite bead, would something like this fix the problem?


> Incidentally, the yellow wire is not needed for S-Video and is frequently omitted entirely from S-Video cables. You should probably leave it disconnected.


Yeah I was wondering about that... Good to know.

Try picking up some ferrite clamps to put on the cable to see if it will help the cable effectively reject the interference.

​

Such as these: https://www.amazon.com/stardrift-10-Pack-Diameter-Ferrite-Suppressor/dp/B015RAZTIA

That's good, at least.

Think you could get away with looping each ear's cable round a ferrite ring a couple of times and showing her something like this, with some pretty graphs showing how they can reduce EMF, and hope she misses the fact the EMF is generated in the buds themselves?

How are your power cords arranged? Is there anything overlapping? Sounds like some sort of interference. Not other turntables to test with?

Before sending it back for another out of warranty repair, you may want to try a ferrite ring or two. Amazon has them pretty cheap.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015RAZTIA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_d0TYzbRYCKEEJ

Do you live in Lithuania?

Your neighbor is a ham radio operator. In one of the recordings he is sending TEST (contest) and his call sign.

I can give you his name if you need to narrow it down. I'd suggest talking to him and let him know his signal is getting into you stuff

You can fix this on your end as well with snap on chokes
https://www.amazon.com/stardrift-10-Pack-Diameter-Ferrite-Suppressor/dp/B015RAZTIA

If it's too strong.. ehhhhh not sure about your local laws

thank you! Do you think this will help btw if I can't find any ones that prevent radio static? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015RAZTIA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used a ground loop isolator*when I had issues with my headset and microphone and it fixed them.

Could be hardware issues in your setup. Higher end motherboards usually account for this, but some lower end models have the audio power on the same loop as the rest of the motherboard (from the 20/24 pin). If you don't have a high rated PSU, you could be getting "dirty power" which is known for giving whining sounds or buzzing sounds. A very simple fix is to feed a ground loop isolator, they're like 5 dollars or so I'll link you one, they basically just are low end filters for that unstable power coming out of a headphone jack.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0171PQLB8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7SFFzb5QMXFK3

Basically plug the included cable into your motherboard audio out port and one end of the isolator. Plug the Sennheisers into the ground loop isolators other port and it's like having a lil filter. Hoping this cheap solution helps, it helped my brothers problem when I build his PC from my old parts.

I have the ground loop isolator connected between my switch and microphone jack on my laptop

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0171PQLB8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I love my SyncUP DRIVE because it is able to add a whole dimension to our SUV.

I don't know what it is about FM radio in cars, but the last couple vehicles, the signal and audio quality has been absolutely atrocious. Unless you have that HD Radio feature built-in on your car's entertainment system, it's so staticky and low quality that it's not even worth listening to.

So, I grabbed a second-gen Amazon Echo Dot on sale for $30 and plugged it in my car, with a 1A micro-USB charger and an audio cable (plus a ground loop noise isolator to remove the humming/hissing noise), and now my wife and I are able to stream our favorite FM radio stations via iHeartRadio and TuneIn, not to mention Amazon Music, Pandora, and Spotify. Granted, Amazon streams their audio through an encrypted network connection (akin to a VPN connection), so T-Mobile is not able to downsample it and therefore is not Music Freedom-eligible, so that streaming counts against my monthly data allotment.

We've got the grandfathered Mobile Internet 6GB plan with Binge On and Music Freedom for $40, with a $10 discount for having phone lines, and $5 discount for AutoPay, ultimately bringing it to $25 per month. Surprisingly, there's also another 6GB plan for $25, but T-Force says the discounts are already applied to that, and the plan is tweaked, but not for the better: throttling on these new plans specifically state that they're forced down to 2G speeds, whereas my grandfathered plan says it's just "slowed down." I've never broken the 6GB barrier in a single month, as I use up 4-5GB per month with encrypted music streaming, so I don't know what the speeds are after that. I also have 4G LTE tethering, but I hardly use that as well.

In addition, I also grabbed an Amazon Fire TV Stick for $30 and plugged it into the Rear Entertainment System's HDMI port (and USB port for power), so the kids can watch Netflix, Hulu, Amazon Video, and even the SlingPlayer app back to my Slingbox connected to my TiVo at home, so they can watch their recorded shows and live TV. All those streams are zero-rated for Binge On, so they can watch all they want to their hearts' content. No more swapping DVDs and Blu-rays, it's all on demand.

All that, plus vehicle monitoring/tracking/logging, diagnostics, and included Roadside Assistance, this is probably the coolest thing to have on my T-Mobile account.

For my setup I use a male to male 3.5mm cable to plug my Switch into my PC's line in port. That way you get both the game audio and Discord audio through the same headset. Also had to use a ground loop isolator to get rid of some noise, but now it works beautifully.

These are the the ones I bought, but there are a million to choose from:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0171PQLB8/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NO73Q84/

pretty sure I got this one https://www.amazon.com/Finware-Female-Bullet-Connectors-Battery/dp/B01ETROGP4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1551117789&sr=8-4&keywords=xt60

​

​

Ok thank you so much! Is it these that have been linked from that website?

https://www.amazon.com/Finware-Female-Bullet-Connectors-Battery/dp/B01ETROGP4/ref=sxts_k2p_hero2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=2668835662&pf_rd_r=S6R4R8BWK779TRY0V987&pd_rd_wg=EO22e&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_w=5EfKl&pf_rd_i=xt60+connectors&pd_rd_r=P19PEF82ZJTF265YT9T0&ie=UTF8&qid=1478461649&sr=2

While you are at it, replace the lossy Tamiya connector there. https://www.amazon.com/Finware-Female-Bullet-Connectors-Battery/dp/B01ETROGP4/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=XT60+connectors&qid=1571109188&sr=8-4 wire both ends and you wont need to adapt anymore.

The only video I could find of the MOSFET board installation was very long and somewhat unclear to a newbie. It looks like he mounts it under the printer rather than the control box and overall just seemed really difficult.

I just went ahead and pushed the button on my order from Amazon that includes the XT60 Connectors w/ Heat Shrink and the 6-1 Soldering Kit I would have preferred the MOSFET but in hopes of not getting over my head, it was a total of about 30$ and seems doable.

so i'm looking at buying these bulbs, these connectors and this wire. altogether it'll be around $20, but i'll only need some of this stuff for each.

i'm trying to decide if it is worth buying the extra connectors and wire or if i should just buy this pair of connectors with wire already soldered on and the bulbs and save myself $10.

These are the ones. It says "finware" not sure if its the manufacturer or the distributor..... The item has 114 reviews and the rating is 5 out of 5.....

Are these adapters (GROM, Parrot) in the $150 range ? If so, that's not as bad as I was thinking....

Budget option is something like this: https://smile.amazon.com/Yomikoo-Interface-Connector-2003-2011-2006-2010/dp/B01EUZ90II/ref=sr_1_1?qid=1568856305&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A3822502011&s=electronics&sa-no-redirect=1&sr=1-1&th=1

Get one of these and plug it into the USB connection: https://smile.amazon.com/Firefly-Bluetooth-Receiver-Smallest-Streaming/dp/B01HDO66NK/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=tunai&qid=1568856552&s=electronics&sr=1-1

Do NOT connect the 1/8" cable to your phone though. Connect it to the Bluetooth receiver. Looks like you'll need a 1/8" female to 1/8" female "coupler" too. This seems very clutzy the more I think about it though.....

I'm using one of the below units. If you have USB and an aux in, it's a great way to do it. I have found this unit pairs extremely quickly. Track steering wheel controls don't do anything but the volume ones work fine (as makes sense).

https://www.amazon.com/Firefly-Bluetooth-Receiver-Smallest-Streaming/dp/B01HDO66NK/

If your USB is right next to your AUX, I'd highly recommend the Firefly (https://www.amazon.com/TUNAI-Firefly-Smallest-Bluetooth-Streaming/dp/B01HDO66NK). It's strictly audio, and lets you connect to that for audio and your car for calls. It's what I use in a 2013 Buick (probably a similar setup to yours) and it works beautifully. Then you can of course just use a normal USB-C car charger. Also, it's so small it just stays hidden in the center console and automatically connects whenever you start your car up.

No because the SSS's USB seems to be for content only (unless someone else corrects me).

That BT unit is for computers and you will more than likely need extra drivers too - which your SSS will probably never have.

If you want to add BT to this SSS you need one that they have for cars where the USB is used for power but has a AUX/line out (and will connect to the line on your SSS). Pick a BT adapter to AUX that allows charging and playback at the same time and then plug it into the USB port to get power, and plug the line out into the line in on the SSS.

I would try this one as it seems it needs no charging => it's using power from the USB (https://www.amazon.com/Firefly-Bluetooth-Receiver-Smallest-Streaming/dp/B01HDO66NK/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=bluetooth+aux+car+usb&qid=1558748622&s=gateway&sr=8-3)

I use this.

FIREFLY

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HDO66NK?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Post Removed so I'm pasting it here as sub suggested:

I just got a Samsung UN50RU7100 TV. Only audio output options are Bluetooth, "TV Speaker" and "Digital Audio Out (Optical)". I want to connect my old B&W DM330s.

Considering either:

A) Getting an optical to RCA adapter and then an amplifier and then converting the loose speaker wires to RCA (https://www.amazon.ca/Techole-Converter-192kHz-Aluminum-Converter-Headphone/dp/B07XMLGXFD/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=optical+to+rca&qid=1574355994&sprefix=optical+to+&sr=8-4) (https://www.amazon.ca/Bluetooth-Preamplifier-Headphone-Amplifier-Audio/dp/B07TJS2DBT/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=amplifier&qid=1574357280&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&smid=ADPE7GPX91ORE&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUE5S1lPWE9IUFlDSUcmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA2ODcxMTBVOUdPWVJTWlVKOUQmZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDQzNTA0OVlUODBIT1ozNUxPWCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX3NlYXJjaF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl) (https://www.amazon.ca/Haokiang-Speaker-Terminal-Connector-Adapter/dp/B07FQ7TCMS/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=speaker+wire+to+rca&qid=1574357340&sr=8-4)

B) use the same amplifier and speaker wire adapters as A but instead of optical use a Bluetooth device (https://www.amazon.ca/TUNAI-Firefly-Smallest-Bluetooth-Receiver/dp/B01HDO66NK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=bluetooth+receiver&qid=1574357436&sprefix=bluetooth+receiber&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEySzZBVUdaVldSSEVUJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTczMDc1SVBBSlpaUFdNTlBMJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA3NzEwNzQxTjk2MzQzR0c0MzlIJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfcGhvbmVfc2VhcmNoX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=)

Which option should I go for? Will I lose sound quality going Bluetooth? Is there a better way to do this I haven't thought of? Any suggestions appreciated. Cheers.

Im currently looking at this but itll be a while before i go home to get it. So i dont know how good it is but it claims to solve all my problems

TUNAI Firefly Bluetooth Receiver: World’s Smallest Wireless Audio Bluetooth 4.2 Adapter with 3.5mm AUX for Car/Home Stereo Music Streaming; Auto On, No Charging Needed - Car Pack (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HDO66NK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QDoVCbK3HQ710

This works VERY good. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HDO66NK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Was your phone connected to a charger? (or anything that is electrically connected to the aircraft in any way) If so, you'll need a ground isolator to get rid of the buzz.

You can also get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JUOWB2Q

I actually spent a fair amount of time looking for a grounded USB charger like the one you linked, but didn't come across it. Thanks for linking it; I'll give it a shot with another Dot and speaker combo.

Connecting all of your devices to the same circuit may eliminate or lessen the problem. A ground loop isolator may solve the problem. https://www.amazon.com/REIIE-Ground-Isolator-Bluetooth-System/dp/B01JUOWB2Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494183344&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=ground+loop+isolator&psc=1 Connecting your devices optically if possible is a pretty fool-proof way of solving the issue. Here's a good video to help you understand what's happening. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GS-6jBk9YPM

Thanks for the detailed response! I have the headset powered through the TV which has a USB port. The controller is plugged into the Xbox. I have tried plugging in the headset through different power sources, USB, my laptop, the wall, etc. There is still a humming that comes from the headset being plugged into the controller. I am going to purchase this. Do you think it will help?

If you're convinced that the cable is introducing noise, consider an opto-isolator, close to the receiver/amplifier end if possible:

https://www.amazon.com/REIIE-Ground-Isolator-Bluetooth-System/dp/B01JUOWB2Q

It's also possible that your different cables have different pinouts and TRS spacings.

Yeah, essentialy you'd use headphone or line out to a cable like this. Then use another cable like that from the mixer to the PC. You might need a ground loop isolator like this to eliminate any hum coming from the PCs.

I realize now this may have been what you were talking about before. I was up super late and my reading comprehension may have been suffering. For some reason I thought you were going to run both PCs into a splitter and then into the mixer. TL;DR I'm dumb.

Do you get any noise when using that setup? I've been plugging my switch into my computer sound card input line and had buzzing until I bought a ground loop noise isolator for it.

This one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JUOWB2Q, it elminates the buzzing but makes the overall sound quieter.

There are audio filters (mostly made for cars) that electrically isolate the input and output at a small loss of fidelity. Example: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01JUOWB2Q/

I have a 2015 limited

Rexing V1 Car Dash Cam 2.4" LCD FHD 1080p 170 Degree Wide Angle Dashboard Camera Recorder with Sony Exmor Video Sensor, G-Sensor, WDR, Loop Recording https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X528FNE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_odQ5CbEV3T7H0

I don't have the adaptive radar cruise control. This is mounted on the windshield by the mirror. I used a hardwire kit to run power down to the driver side footwell.

Rexing Mini-USB Hardwire Kit for V1, V1P, V1 3rd Gen Dash Cams https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXC2329/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3eQ5CbYDMNHZZ


Watch this video, not too difficult.
https://youtu.be/qlVMCYI__m8

I actually have everything you just mentioned, haha. I bought [this] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXC2329/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YSVwzb2RM8ZP6) because it's cheep and because of the location I have it in, it's easy to replace if needed. The mirror may not be the best place, but it was definitely an easy install. Thanks for your advice.

I see that cam comes with one cord only. Mine came with two: One 12v socket cord, and a fused cord that can be added to any fuse block.

I used an add-a-circuit splitter from Autozone, tapped into a radio fuse, and set both up. I used a radio fuse that was only powered with the key on, meaning when the radio turned off with the truck, the dashcam would also power off as to not kill the battery.

If you're handy, you can do the same and keep your 12v socket free.

Here's the fused cord that came with my dashcam. It's got the same USB connector as yours, I see.

Rexing Mini-USB Hardwire Kit for V1, V1P, V1 3rd Gen Dash Cams https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXC2329/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Sr6YDbM3ZRQZN

Dash cams are designed to be left on 24/7, the recording just writes over old video (unless you’ve marked to save it). The only restriction is if your car cuts all power when the car is off. My car chargers do not lose power when the car is off. I got sick of pulling it out every night (that’s what she said), so I bought this. I usually only turn it off when my car is in my garage, as there’s nothing interesting happening there. There’s also this (specific for my cam), where you can wire it directly to the fuse if your car does cut all power but you want it record when it’s parked.

It’s a trickle of power, and you prevent it the same way you do in general. Starting the car and letting it run for a bit to recharge the battery. Frequency of needing to do that depends on your battery and the weather.

I had an emergency in January and my BIL drove my car home. I didn’t drive at all the next few days, and it was -30°F out. Yeah, she was dead when I was able to drive again. I forgot to tell him to unplug the dash cam. The next week is when we had -50° windchill. Soooo I got a new battery that week anyway.

I was thinking of buying https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXC2329/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2BDR2NEGWOXLJ&psc=1

Besign BK01 Bluetooth 4.1 Car Kit... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01MSUWCZ0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

using this from over a year, works every time

I have a BT to Aux Device with power from an USB charger in the cigarette lighter. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSUWCZ0/

There are car specific ones with 12v constant power like this too. Main unit clips to a vent. Has a call/assistant button. Pause. Skip.

You need to check amazon more...

https://www.amazon.com/SoundBot-SB360-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Streaming/dp/B00RH29CJO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1537757171&sr=8-5&keywords=car+bluetooth&dpID=51giZd72%252BGL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch


https://www.amazon.com/BK01-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Wireless-Streaming/dp/B01MSUWCZ0/ref=sr_1_19?ie=UTF8&qid=1537757254&sr=8-19&keywords=car+bluetooth

If you have an Aux In, maybe check out something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSUWCZ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uk5PDbYT9AN5Y

I've got an iOttie car mount and the Besign BK01 Bluetooth adapter, it turns on with my car and turns off, works like a charm!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MSUWCZ0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That's the one I have and it works great. Long-press track forward for assistant. It goes on and off with the car if your cigarette lighter plug goes on an off with the car. Mine does in my toyota but every car I've ever had before this they all stayed on.

It's simple for a guest to connect to also, just turn bt off on your phone and the puck automatically goes to pairing mode, guest connects/plays music, have them do a forget device when they're done and once you turn your bt back on you're connected.

This one and the one /u/neongasoline linked (I was about to buy that one, but liked the buttons facing front on mine better) both come with a ground loop isolator, I will make my opinion known that one of those is very necessary if you don't want the hum you get like you do with a phone plugged into aux that is also charging via car-power.

I converted a tape deck in a '97 Camry to use one of these. Besign BK01 Bluetooth Car Kit. Noise isolator, phone call compatibility, automatic pairing when the car is turned on.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MSUWCZ0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you have an auxiliary port, get one of these

I have it in both my cars (which don't have Bluetooth). Sound quality is awesome and the noise cancelling works. The mic/control sticks to wherever you want with a little magnet. You can pull it off and hold it up to your mouth for those situations where it's loud. I've had quick conversations on the highway with the top down on my convertible and people say they can't tell I'm in the car.

Great advice. I have a 2003 Chevy Silverado that had an "Aux" setting. I had something similar to the Scosche installed in my truck, with an aux plug that I could use. Google your make and model of car and "Aux" and you should be able to find the right thing to order. I had mine installed by the Stereo Man http://ncstereoman.com/info/category/home/.

Also, if you get that installed, I recommend this for plugging into your aux and being able to have bluetooth. Works great in my truck. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MSUWCZ0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You don't need to but a new set of headphones at all, you can buy an extension like this and plug it up to the back
Or you could try something like this which would allow you to stay connected in the front. It works by removing the ground which is causing all of the static.

Googling the Arctis Pro headset suggests to me that this is a wired headset. If it is wireless, then I've got no idea what's going on.

It sounds like your particular problem is a common one called ground loop noise, that occurs when source and destination use the same power supply or are connected to a common ground. My knowledge of electronics is limited, but I know about sound so I was able to research this enough to have a clue what might be going on. The fact that reducing the volume makes it go away is consistent with ground loop noise; lower volume means lower power and lower interference.

This could be an equipment defect, especially if this headset advertises clear 5x5 performance, though in my experience the advantages of a wired headset focus on ear comfort and constant uptime (no dependence on battery life). RF interference is an inevitable consequence of using a wire.

I suspect this noise may not exist until the signal reaches the computer, so using an inline filter won't remove it. It seems like a cheap part, though, so you could try it with minimal investment.

https://www.amazon.com/BESIGN-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B06XQYN77L?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&psc=1

Alternatively, you could plug your headset into a tiny USB sound adapter. A dedicated sound adapter may be smart enough to take measures to prevent this from occurring by simply isolating the power feeds or filtering the interference. The price range on that is larger, and I don't know if a cheap one will be crap and not actually fix your problem. This one looks good to me:

https://www.newegg.com/creative-sound-blaster-play-3/p/N82E16829102100?item=N82E16829102100&ignorebbr=1&source=region&nm_mc=knc-googleadwords-pc&cm_mmc=knc-googleadwords-pc-_-pla-_-sound+card-_-N82E16829102100&gclid=Cj0KCQjwpPHoBRC3ARIsALfx-_LHOvI9v1FKxzvmeEbCIO99WXsNg-5Zy1pfh6QDO8XWiowVKEUQQiAaAmvwEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

OR... you could remove the noise with a software filter. I don't currently have this problem on any of my own equipment, so I can't test any of these, but something like NoiseGator may work.

https://sourceforge.net/projects/noisegator/

That's all I've got. I hope this helps, or at least gives you a starting point to understand your problem better and find a solution.

What kind of connection to your PC do you have?

I'd try looking into a ground loop noise isolator and researching ground loops in general as it sounds like that's what's going on.

This might work for you:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B06XQYN77L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_y1mWCbY0V1KE6

BESIGN Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XQYN77L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CcsNDbRT3ZC6H

I had a feeling there was some sort of device for this issue. Something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/BESIGN-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B06XQYN77L/ref=asc_df_B06XQYN77L/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198076596450&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1616835371283980449&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004365&hvtargid=pla-350233567378&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Blueskysea-Universal-Hardwire-Adapter-Camera/dp/B075WPSZYH

Is this a good one?

It looks like it plugs right into your fuse box

or this one (since its not on back order)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072J3L2JN/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=sl1&tag=d2f-20&linkId=abc4e1a3ed8c0acde8be2047e1074b9a&th=1

I used this:

15ft MicroUSB & MiniUSB Dash Cam Hardwire Kit with Mini/LP Mini/ATO/Micro2 Fuse, Micro to Mini (and Type-C) Port Adapters and Battery Drain Protection System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072J3L2JN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FlO2BbPX47DZB

Looks possible:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/thinkware-f770-dashcam-install.465929/

Sure, I use this nunet model as an example, because it is almost universally compatible with different USB inputs, and I literally just finished installing it in my car:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072J3L2JN?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

It, and similar other models sell (US) for ~$15

Edit: added piece

I am using the Viofo A129, and using this hardwire kit. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072J3L2JN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It feels like metal.

I dropped $15 on an FM transmitter from amazon.Same boat as you. It’s been great.

> Bluetooth capability

You can get a Bluetooth adapter that plugs into a cigarette lighter for less that $20 on Amazon and they work decently well. I got this one last year and it plays clearer than the actual radio

WTF

Eu am unu din asta https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073S62S65

I stick it in the cigarette lighter. It looks like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073S62S65/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_bmHMDb3GY24B9

Here's a better option.

Ah good idea! I didn't even think of that. I just got this because I have no plans on using the cigarette lighter so let's see how it does. But I will definitely keep that in mind.

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Soundsync-Bluetooth-Connection-Headphones/dp/B07H5C2BQX

I use this with ear plugs. Music and motorcycling without Tinnitus in 10 years. You could probably use one of these with it to make it bluetooth:

Anker Soundsync Bluetooth Receiver https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07H5C2BQX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LkJCDbQYFV3JJ

Your much better off getting one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Soundsync-Bluetooth-Connection-Headphones/dp/B07H5C2BQX/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?keywords=bluetooth+adapter&qid=1558843333&s=gateway&sprefix=bluetooth+ada&sr=8-16 and plugging it into your aux input Jack.

Something like this? When you say aux cord, do you mean 3.5mm audio jack? Or something else? If you're not sure, a picture would help as well.

I use one of these and it works great

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Soundsync-Bluetooth-Connection-Headphones/dp/B07H5C2BQX/

No bluetooth audio. It does have bluetooth connectivity for gamepads, keyboards, and mice, but not audio.

​

If you absolutely need to force audio to bluetooth--which makes sense for this sort of accessibility scenario--you could get something like this:

​

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Soundsync-Bluetooth-Connection-Headphones/dp/B07H5C2BQX

​

HOWEVER, you will also likely experience first hand why they don't directly support bluetooth. There will be a decent chance the audio you get will not be synchronized to what's happening on screen.

I'm not sure where to get a usb c to female aux but I use this and it's great

Anker Soundsync Bluetooth Receiver for Music Streaming with Bluetooth 5.0, 12-Hour Battery Life, Handsfree Calls, Dual Device Connection, for Car, Home Stereo, Headphones, Speakers https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07H5C2BQX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9P0NDb3YX7W09

Step 1:
Buy dash kit and wiring kit
http://www.amazon.com/Metra-99-6505-Dodge-98-UP-Pocket/dp/B0007WTFB6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1301374727&sr=8-2

http://www.amazon.com/Audio-KIT-2-Complete-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B000FKP7TY/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1301375319&sr=1-1


Step 2:
Buy your deck

Step 3:
Buy or borrow some stereo removal keys for the jeep.
It might not need them. My mazda used them to prevent having to take apart the dash... might do some research on this.


Step 4:
Buy compatible wiring harness.
I prefer to buy these from local car stereo stores as i once fucked up ther order on amazon.
Just go in and ask them for one for your rig.

Step 5:
Once you have your deck and wiring harness solder the wiring harness for your car and the wiring harness that came with the deck together. The colors of the wires should match each other. Most will say what they go to on the side of the wire or package/instructions.
If you don't have a soldering iron you can use crimps or wire nuts... i just prefer soldering cuz its fucking awesome.

ALSO you must connect the AMP ON wire to the harness and run it through your dash to the amp.

Step 6:
While your dash is apart/ old stereo is out, you should run the rca cables through the dash and plug them into the back of your deck. Naturally the other ends will go to wherever you place your amp.

Plug everything in the back into your new deck and re assemble the dash.

Step 7:
Disconnect the negative terminal until done.
Run the large cable that was in the amp kit through and opening in the firewall in your car. Usually there will be rubber seals with cables going through them already that you can poke your wire through.... Attach the fuse and connect it to the positive terminal.

Plug large wire into the + one your amp.

Now choose a spot near your amp that is bare metal and attach your ground wire to it with a screw or something. Plug it into the negative ground terminal on the amp.

Now connect your amp on wire.

plug in the speakers to the speakers spot on the amp.

step 8:
reconnect ground.

step :9
knock womens clothing off.

2007 honda accord with touch screen navigation. Maybe FM Adapter is the wrong term. FM Modulator maybe? It isn't like the ones that broadcast your input over a certain frequency. When I put my stereo on a specific channel it somehow makes a physical connection to this after market thing. Or at least that's how the guy explained it to me. So theoretically it's a pure aux line.

I think this(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004613FCE) is basically the same thing, except mine doesn't have a usb port.

You can get any dash cam and use this kit to hook it up to your battery so it turns on and off with your car. Bellow is my combo and I love it.

Dash Cam:

https://www.amazon.ca/Ampulla-2560x1080-Detection-G-Sensor-Recording/dp/B06XHGTKNC/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1540396497&sr=1-1&keywords=Ampulla+Pluto+Dash

Add a circuit:

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B072J3L2JN/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There are some BT adapters in Amazon, not as reliable as built in ones, but they get the job done 90% of the time. I bought one that automatically connects and even starts playing where I left off (if Spotify is in the background) and has two charging ports. I definitely recommend it.

Link

https://www.amazon.com/GOgroove-SMARTmini-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Streaming/dp/B008XMV05G

Problem Solved!

Not really a valid excuse in 2019: Anker Soundsync A3352 Bluetooth Receiver for Music Streaming with Bluetooth 5.0, 12-Hour Battery Life, Handsfree Calls, Dual Device Connection, for Car, Home Stereo, Headphones, Speakers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H5C2BQX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Mjt7Cb87FGYW4