(Part 2) Best car electronics according to redditors

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We found 10,636 Reddit comments discussing the best car electronics. We ranked the 2,281 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.

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Subcategories:

Car audio & video
Portable FRS two-way radios
Car security products
Car video products
GPS trackers
Vehicle GPS tracking & monitoring modules

Top Reddit comments about Car Electronics:

u/SoFlaKicks · 1807 pointsr/IdiotsInCars

[Reposting a shorter version of the video] The driver of the white car had his friend come to the scene of the accident and give a false report to the police officer, making himself a “witness to the accident“. The cop interviewed both of them first and then came to me, I told him that I had dash cam video but he wanted me to explain what happened first. I did and the officer looked very confused and asked to see the video. Apparently, the driver who hit me and his made up a wild story about me driving erratically and weaving in and out of lanes, ultimately ramming into his car. The officer was very close to criminally charging the “witness“ for providing false testimony to a police officer. Needless to say, the driver of the white car was cited for the accident and I was not. The officer did say that the DashCam video saved me from being at fault as he would have had to rely on the driver and “witness“ account of the accident which was wildly different from what actually happened.

Edit: I’m using the Roav DashCam A1, by Anker

u/SorryNotSorryMom · 125 pointsr/IdiotsInCars

Viofo A129, front and back cams. There’s also the Viofo A119 that’s just the front one

u/leenhowts · 47 pointsr/Roadcam

He's using the Falcon Zero F360 HD DVR drive cam. The left camera is suppose to face the driver. I use this when I drive for Lyft or Uber. I sometimes have both cameras face forward but line them up so it's a solid wide view. Not a bad price for a discreet drive cam.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E56WY18/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496702909&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Falcon+Zero+F360+HD+DVR&dpPl=1&dpID=41HcYxHvzcL&ref=plSrch

u/foxbrb · 46 pointsr/MaliciousCompliance

Roav Dashcam A1

Roav DashCam A1, by Anker, Dash Cam, Dashboard Camera Recorder, 1080P FHD, Nighthawk Vision, Wide-Angle View, WiFi, G-Sensor, WDR, Loop Recording, and Night Mode https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076GYGVY5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1uoBCbT13V6AG

u/Albert_street · 45 pointsr/Dashcam

Its the Blueskysea B1W. It’s one of the cheap Chinese models, but I’ve been really impressed by its performance.

u/random12356622 · 43 pointsr/Dashcam

Plenty of options:

  • B1W ($47-55 USD) - Has wifi/cellphone app, Good video, Fair build quality, Lackluster parking mode: Automatic, Not buffered, Requires hardwire kit with low voltage cut off feature to enable parking mode. - No GPS

  • A119 v2 ($79-105 USD) - Excellent video quality, Fair build quality, Lackluster parking mode: Automatic, Not buffered, Requires hardwire kit with low voltage cut off feature to enable parking mode. No wifi/cellphone app. Lacks Cloud feature. - Has GPS

  • A119S v2 ($90-119 USD) - Good video quality, Fair build quality, Lackluster parking mode: Automatic, Not buffered, Requires hardwire kit with low voltage cut off feature to enable parking mode. No wifi/cellphone app. - This dash cam was supposed to surpass the A119 v2 in video quality. It never did. Firmware updates were supposed to make it better video quality. Only surpasses A119 v2 in Extremely dark conditions, lesser video quality in all other conditions. Lacks Cloud feature. - Has GPS

  • A119 Pro ($90-124 USD) - Good video quality, Fair build quality, Lackluster parking mode: Automatic, Not buffered, Requires hardwire kit with low voltage cut off feature to enable parking mode. No wifi/cellphone app. - This dash cam is supposed to surpass the A119 v2 in video quality. Waiting on firmware updates. Same hope as A119S v2. Lacks Cloud feature. - Has GPS

  • Street Guardian SGGCX2 (Includes memory card and CPL filter) ($160-290 USD) - Good video quality, Good build quality, Lackluster parking mode: Automatic, Not buffered, Requires hardwire kit with low voltage cut off feature to enable parking mode. No wifi/cellphone app. - This dash cam is similar to the A119 variants in video quality. Lacks Cloud feature. - Has GPS


    Versatile: Mobius ($70-100 USD) (Requires separate purchase: Power cable or hardwire kit + Micro SD card + adhesive Mount) + recommended purchase Super capacitor - Good video quality, Fair build quality, Lackluster parking mode: Automatic, Not buffered, Requires hardwire kit with low voltage cut off feature to enable parking mode. No wifi/cellphone app. - This isn't the best dash cam in the world, but it is one of the smaller ones. It was made for the drone world, and repurposed for the dash cam world. Lacks Cloud feature. - No GPS - Lacks G sensor (because it is part of the drone world)


    Budget Dual Cams:

  • Mini 0906 ($130 USD) - I would avoid this dash cam. ??? I have no idea GPS

  • A129 ($160 USD) - Good video quality, Fair build quality, Lackluster parking mode: Automatic, Not buffered, Requires hardwire kit with low voltage cut off feature to enable parking mode. Has wifi/cellphone app. - This is a 2 Channel (Front/Rear) or (Front/interior) dashcam similar to the A119 variants. It is new, and people like it. Lacks Cloud feature. - Has GPS


    Last year's Flagship Dual Cams:

  • BlackSys CH-100B 2CH ($200-270 USD) - Excellent build quality, Excellent parking mode, Good/Fair video quality. Has wifi/cellphone app. Good/Fair video quality is a far step down from Excellent A119 v2 video quality, you should compare sample footage. This dash cam's strong point is it is simply a good dash cam, user friendly wifi/cellphone app. Lacks Cloud feature. Has partitioned normal/Parking recording. - Has GPS

  • BlackVue DR650S 2CH ($298-370 USD) - Excellent build quality, Excellent parking mode, Good/Fair video quality. Has wifi/cellphone app. People complain about this dash cam's video quality. It is similar to the CH-100B 2CH but for some reason people have higher than average expectations for video quality from this one. First of the Cloud feature dash cams. Lacks partitioned normal/Parking recording. - Has GPS

  • Thinkware F770 2CH ($330-390 USD) - Excellent build quality, Excellent parking mode, Good video quality. Has wifi/cellphone app. Lacks Cloud feature. Has partitioned normal/Parking recording. This dashcam has improved video quality over the CH-100B 2CH/BlackVue DR650S 2CH, and it shows. - Has GPS


    This year's Flagship Dual Cams:

  • BlackSys Ch-200 2CH ($300-320 USD) - Excellent build quality, Excellent parking mode, Good video quality. Has wifi/cellphone app. Lacks Cloud feature. Has partitioned normal/Parking recording. - Similar to the BlackSys CH-100B 2CH, with improved video quality. - Has GPS

  • BlackVue DR750S 2CH ($380-510 USD) - Excellent build quality, Excellent parking mode, Good video quality. Has wifi/cellphone app. Has Cloud feature. Has partitioned normal/Parking recording. - Improved video quality over the BlackVue DR650S 2CH, added partitioned normal/parking recording. - Has GPS

  • Street Guardian SG9663DC (Includes memory card and CPL filter) ($290-490 USD) - Similar to the A129 2CH dash cam, missing wifi/cellphone app. - Has GPS

  • BlackVue DR900S 2CH (4K) ($480-591 USD) - Excellent build quality, Excellent parking mode, Excellent video quality. Has wifi/cellphone app. Has Cloud feature. Has partitioned normal/Parking recording. - One of the few dash cams that is similar/surpasses the A119 v2. - Has GPS

  • Thinkware F800 2CH ($380-430 USD) - Excellent build quality, Excellent parking mode, Good video quality. Has wifi/cellphone app. Has Cloud feature. Has partitioned normal/Parking recording. - The first of the Thinkware Cloud dash cams. - Has GPS

  • Thinkware F800 Pro 2CH ($380-460 USD) - Excellent build quality, Excellent parking mode, Good video quality. Has wifi/cellphone app. Has Cloud feature. Has partitioned normal/Parking recording. - The 2nd of the Thinkware Cloud dash cams. - Has GPS

    ---

    Just to complicate things a bit more: BlackVue 1CH dash cams can not be upgraded to 2 CH. They will lack the rear camera port, as the 1CH dash cams are physically different than the 2CH versions.

    Thinkware dash cams which have 1CH/2CH versions can be upgraded from 1 CH -> 2CH.

  • Thinkware FA200 IRC 2CH ($240 USD) - Includes Dashcam/IR cam + Micro SD card + Hardwire kit.

  • Thinkware FA200 WiFi ($130-190 USD) - Lacks IR cam, has Micro SD card option, Hardwire kit option.

  • BlackVue DR590W-2CH WiFi ($240-260 USD)

  • BlackVue DR590W-2CH IR WiFi ($280-300 USD)

    Look around for the best price. - Standard copy pasta.
u/CarbonCamaroZL1 · 37 pointsr/IdiotsInCars

Wait, I'm famous??? Lol

And I was recommended the Apeman Dash Cam. I'm just not sure if I want to spend the extra $50 to get the rear camera as well. But I'm a bit tight on budget and have been recommended this one as a good cheap dash cam. It has great reviews, as well.

u/ur_mamas_krama · 37 pointsr/gifs

For $80 budget (cam plus microSD), just get this camera. It is basic for basic needs (covering your ass when it comes to insurance or court claims).

I promise I did your research, I've spent 6 hours and narrowed down to this given my cheap ass budget. Having to own it for 8 months, it's 100% worth it. I get great images, videos, emergency button works without issues, and I haven't had to reset the microSD either (some cam stop deleting footage on a loop - glitch). Also it sticks far harder than your bare ass on black leather of a convertible mustang in the middle of the day in LA - it will not fall or break your dash window.

Anyway, my two cents dude.

u/CodeCat5 · 35 pointsr/IdiotsInCars

This is the one I have:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M592J9C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I haven't looked into them in a couple of years so there may be better options by now. I like this one though because it's fairly cheap (I don't care about the bells & whistles others have), and some of the parts are made by Sony. It's also lasted through a couple of GA summers, so it seems to be reliable.

u/Gjallock · 25 pointsr/IdiotsInCars

This is a pretty cheap one I got on sale for about $42, works great! 1080p 30fps or 720p 60 fps

u/timrbrady · 23 pointsr/gadgets

Which is why I said "and a decent DAC". There is a market for higher-grade portable audio, as evidenced by dedicated external portable DACs and IEMs. Such a device could also serve those of us that want to keep all of their music on them.

> Macbooks already dominate the musician/DJ portable device market

Surely you see the distinction between a MacBook and an iPod for portable audio listening.

u/lushmonkey · 22 pointsr/houston

I was only recording in 720p. It goes to 1080p but because it's a two-way dash cam it fills up the memory card pretty quick. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0147R9PDO

u/chocomoholic · 19 pointsr/ottawa
u/Why_Is_This_NSFW · 19 pointsr/IdiotsInCars

Same, been looking at the A129 though my A119 has been great. (Get a High Endurance card also, I run a Transcend. Bought a couple Samsung EVOs because that was all that was available locally, died within 6 months. This has been going a year and a half).

Protip: As a first dashcam:

Low budget: Yi Dashcam

Mid: Viofo A119

High: Viofo A129

Highest: Some Streetguardian/Blackvue shit with park assist and beams info to your phone if someone breathes on your car, at that level you should probably do some research.

There's a LOT of them out there but they use mostly the same components rebranded (Rexing, et al). I like these, just my opinion.

Edit: /r/Dashcam /r/roadcam

u/jonahn2000 · 18 pointsr/IdiotsInCars

Most dashcams record 24/7. I'd go on r/dashcam and find a good one. The one OP linked doesn't have the greatest reviews. This one

https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Dashboard-Camera-Recorder-6-Lane/dp/B01M592J9C

Seems good

Edit: or the ROAV A1 someone else posted is good too. Really, if it has 25+ reviews and it has above 4 stars it’s probably pretty good. Watch some YouTube videos of the video quality just to make sure though

u/pescadosdelana · 18 pointsr/JUSTNOMIL

And if you want more security, I have the Roav (Anker) camera for my vehicle and really like it. It will even turn on if you vehicle is off if something hits it. And, for a good quality camera, it's relatively inexpensive.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076GYGVY5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/Abcdqfr · 17 pointsr/oculus

I couldn't find an affordable buttkicker brand package but I did find a great amp and transducer on amazon for 2/3 the price of the Gamer 2 (cheapest buttkicker) at just about $100. It works fantastically! I'll post links to the products if you care to see them.

Edit:

AuraSound AST-2B-4 Pro Bass Shaker Tactile Transducer by Aura Sound

Lepai LP-168HA 2.1 2 x 40-Watt Amplifier and 1x68W Sub Output by Lepai

12v 6a Adapter Power Supply for LCD Monitor with Power Cord by LCD AC Power Adapter

u/Teh_Compass · 14 pointsr/videos

Russian dashcams are why I bought one. Hopefully we can spread awareness so we start seeing more pop up.

This is the one I got. Note that this is the capacitor version. The normal one has a battery. I got this one because it gets really hot here and that would damage the battery. Battery version is slightly cheaper. Overall good for the price. It's the one that I see recommended most.

u/Setiri · 14 pointsr/houston

For everyone asking about dash cams, here are a couple of links that I think will help. They're really not very expensive and can be installed for free by you if you don't mind a little effort (or a wire to your cigarette lighter), or you can get one hardwired (with the wire tucked away so it's barely noticeable) for $50-$100 from a local car stereo shop. The good thing is they're small and don't really stick out like a GPS, so they're not really going to raise the chances of someone breaking into your car to get at it.

This is a wonderful review site for those of you who like to research things before buying.
Dashcam Talk Forum/Blog

Here's their best value cam in all black from Amazon.

Here's the one I'm using which is just a little more money but also a tiny bit better in quality (you won't notice a huge difference, I just like the style better).

And here's a 32GB microSDHC memory card that you'll need.

To address the question that usually comes up, they record in loops. That means they record in segments of a few minutes (usually 3, 5, or 10 minute files) and then once the card fills up, they start recording over the oldest files first. 32GB is usually enough space for 5 hours of recording. Yes, you can usually click a button if you record something (or get into an accident) that will tag the last file to not ever get recorded over. They do record sound as well. Neither of those have GPS but you can get some more expensive ones that do.

I'd totally recommend getting a dashcam if you're a driver in Houston as if there's ever an accident you're involved in and not at fault, now you have a very good chance at having proof that it wasn't your fault, which can go a loooong way with insurance. Also, you can capture stuff like op here did, along with you know, russian dashcam worthy footage on occasion. :)

u/hugow · 14 pointsr/uberdrivers

Yeah, they should be required for our protection. I've been using the transcend 520, works great inside and out. Has infrared lights for night vision inside - Transcend 520 drive pro

u/K9b1ack · 13 pointsr/CarAV

Go for all BOSS BOSS audio master race. You get like 4000w for $20. Bump so hard that shit cray



Edit: On a less troll note, you might try something like this

u/alterbyme · 13 pointsr/Roadcam

It's the Anker Roav A1 Dashcam that I had replace my old Mobius action camera due to a sun-damaged lens.

u/VforVilliam · 12 pointsr/LosAngeles

Buy a decent dashcam and you can maybe catch a plate if you're ever in another hit-and-run. They're also great for when the other driver decides to lie about the details of the accident. That's happened to me, and I really wish I had a dashcam then.

Here's a good one for $50. The sidebar on /r/Dashcam also has good recommendations, including some for dual cameras, which record both front and rear.

u/mylifeisahighway · 11 pointsr/IdiotsInCars

AUKey DR01. Got it on an amazon deal day a few weeks ago. First clip I've saved. Was cheap, great 'first dashcam' option for me. Found a power kit that I tapped into the cigarette lighter wiring, ran cable around the windshield to hide. Wish I could do a rear camera easily, but it's a convertible and I'm not about to go crazy with my 2-month old Benz. Maybe when my debt ratio decreases.


https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Dashboard-Camera-Recorder-6-Lane/dp/B01M592J9C

u/Soulflare3 · 11 pointsr/Roadcam

They're all teens, so probably some program AAA did that had parents install both a dashcam and cabin cam to monitor the driving habits of teens. They also appear to have G-Sensors monitoring the vehicle, to show hard braking and/or crashes.

Edit: One thing I didn't think about, there are also dual-camera dashcams that record the road and the cabin in a single unit. You could also simply get a dual-channel (dual-camera) system and mount the second camera in the cabin facing back instead of in the rear window.

u/ChipAyten · 10 pointsr/nyc
u/Asshole_Ina_Tiny_Car · 10 pointsr/sanantonio
u/terp2010 · 9 pointsr/nova
u/ElbowDeepInElmo · 9 pointsr/burlington

I'd highly recommend the ROAV A1. It's only $50 right now with a coupon and it's a great cam.

If you're looking for something a bit higher-end with GPS capabilities, better video quality, and an interior-facing camera, I'd highly recommend the AKASO Trace 1 Pro. That's $110 right now with a coupon. This is my current cam right now and it's awesome.

u/chrgrsrt8 · 9 pointsr/teslamotors

This is what I have:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076GYGVY5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And there is a 15% coupon. It is solid, has good enough quality and performs well at night.

Oh yeah, main reason I bought mine is because I got into an accident, the person that hit me admits to it to myself, others involved and police. Then gives his insurance a different story which made the process even longer. He eventually was determined at fault but it would of saved so much time.

u/no_i_didnt_read_it · 9 pointsr/raspberry_pi

You're better off picking up a car "Rear view monitor" type deal for $36. It's probably the same thing, much much cheaper. Heck the buttons on the monitors look exactly identical. Note that these use the RCA connector so don't expect a hi-res display.

If there's one thing I've learned about the rpi, and other groups is that they're doing some serious price gouging on almost all of the accessories they sell.

u/POTUS · 9 pointsr/videos

I have the G1WH. It's not fancy, but it records 1080p video on a loop to a MicroSD and it's only $50. I suggest the rear view mirror stem mount, the suction cup mount that comes with it is slightly shitty.

u/theChapinator · 9 pointsr/macgaming

For Dota you really should be set with just what's in your macbook. I know you can definitely run all of the borderlands games on that hardware as well, but an eGPU will certainly let you max it out and get higher performance. I am currently running a 980 off of my MacBook Air and it's delightful.

At this stage of eGPUs with macs there are a couple things to keep in mind. First, there is no out-of-the-box solution yet that isn't a ripoff. Most will require a little bit of tinkering, especially the cheaper solutions. This is not at all to discourage you, as there are a lot of great guides and some great communities, but just as a warning. Secondly, you won't be able to get the performance you're looking for on the internal display, you'll need to run it through an external monitor.

For your $300-400 budget, I would advise you to get the AKiTiO Thunder2 Thunderbolt to PCIe expansion chassis. It's $189 and is probably exactly what you need. It requires a very small modification to be able to power a desktop GPU, and if you get a card that has low enough power consumption you can run it all through a special Dell power brick (DA-2)with very minimal modification. The whole solution is actually relatively portable if you chose this option. So that puts you at ~$200-250 for the setup, then all you need is a graphics card.

I am quite partial to Nvidia, but they can run slightly more expensive, but they have other bonuses. Nevertheless, do your own research on what kind of card you want, from what you said anything from the 7xx and 9xx series would work for you, but honestly so could a couple 6xx series cards. As I said I'm not too knowledgeable on AMD so do some research when picking out your card on both fronts, just make sure it's power consumption will work with the set-up.

I am a huge eGPU advocate and if anything wasn't clear feel free to PM me or whatever and I'm more than happy to discuss it. If you're not keen on that, TechInferno has what is arguably the best eGPU community and knowledge/support base around. Definitely check them out regardless as they have a ton of guides and people probably in your same situation that will give you an idea of what you're looking at time/money/difficulty wise.

Cheers!

Edit - added links

u/nullthegrey · 8 pointsr/LifeProTips

I got this one and it's been really great.

u/CaptFuckflaps · 8 pointsr/IdiotsInCars

A119 is a great deal, <$100. I disagree with the "wouldn't spend less than $150" comment.

Fitting them is fairly easy. Power is the tricky part. If you have a lighter socket that switches on/off with ignition you can route the cable to it. The better, but more bother, alternative is a hard wiring kit to the fusebox.

Edit: https://dashcamtalk.com is a good source of information.

u/ohhwerd · 8 pointsr/IdiotsInCars

Love my roav

Anker Roav DashCam A1, Dash Cam for Car, Driving Recorder, 1080p FHD LCD Screen, Nighthawk Vision, Wide Angle Lens, Wi-Fi, G-Sensor, WDR, Loop Recording, Night Mode, Motion Detection, Dedicated App https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076GYGVY5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7x2MDbSK1MZCG

u/CoraxTechnica · 8 pointsr/WRX

I know it's not exactly WRX related but it will save you thousands one day if you get into a wreck

This Anker Roav cam was $65.Hell of a lot cheaper than a new Hawkeye WRX Wagon

Now on sale for $56

u/nacespeedle · 8 pointsr/Seattle

I've had a couple uber drivers rocking one of these:

http://amzn.com/B00E56WY18

The nice thing is that it captures both the front and rear view. If you're looking for one that's not mounted on the mirror and more discreet, Innov makes a great system that's perfect for both motorcycles and cars but a wee bit pricier:

http://www.innovv.com/#!the-k1/c3r6

u/JoffreyDiesS04E02 · 8 pointsr/ImageStabilization

I got myself a dash cam for situations like these. Nothing has happened to me yet but when it does I'll be glad I have a dash cam.

This is the one I bought: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HMNFWYW/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_evDkub0WEJGG6. It records crystal clear and super smooth 1080p video, and turns on and off with the car.

u/enoch15 · 8 pointsr/ucf

Blueskysea B1W WiFi Mini Dash Cam Car Camera Vehicle Video Driving Recorder 360 Degree Rotatable Lens 1080p 30fps G-Sensor Loop Recording https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0773FXVKL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GUycBbS0PKCBP

u/johnnywahl · 8 pointsr/dashcams

Dashcam is a cheap way to have an extra peace of mind. Definitely recommend it. Also they are low maintenance. I don’t ever notice mine because it sits in front in rear view mirror.

Regarding the price, I say go for a mid range. The cheapo ones can be unreliable and low build quality. The expensive ones tend to be too much and more than what most people need. A good mid range dual cam is the A129. Make sure to get a good SD card too, one that is optimized for video. Fortunately they are pretty cheap.

Installation is easy if you just plug it to your cigarette lighter. Then you just run the cable in your trim, which is super easy to tuck into at the edge.

The next level is hardwiring it to your fuse box. That takes about an hour and can be done with a YouTube video instructional. Or take it into a car audio shop and they can probably do it for $150 or so.

Hope this helps!

u/roofied_elephant · 8 pointsr/LosAngeles

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DLG9GFG/

Got that one to put in the loaner for the time being.

In my cars I have the BlackSys CH100B hooked up to the battery for parking recording. Quality is good but not the best, but the functionality is great. I did some research and it seemed like it would be the best fit for me at the price point. Have 4 of them between all my family members for 2 years now and no complaints yet. Make sure to get the right SD card though if you’re in a hot climate. I tried using a regular one and the video would cut out intermittently. No issues after getting the SanDisk High Endurance cards.

u/Bowflex_Freddy · 7 pointsr/ft86

Probably possible. Not sure if it would be worth it. A dash cam with motion detection and an additional battery might be enough to ease you worries. I had one installed and it makes me feel a little better.

These were taken from https://www.reddit.com/r/Dashcam/

Best cam recommendations


Best value:

u/Wagnel · 7 pointsr/Austin

I know this won't help for your current situation, but consider getting a dash cam. Here's a reasonable one for ~$60.

u/Airazz · 7 pointsr/Dashcam

G1W-C has good quality, full HD and you can read licence plates. In daylight you could read ones of the cars going the opposite way at city speeds. At night it's obviously a bit trickier due to headlights of other cars blinding the camera. Reading number plates of cars going the same way is not too hard.


It also has a capacitor instead of a battery, so no dangers of overheating.
The downside is that the capacitor has just enough charge to save the last file and shut down properly, so just a few seconds.

Amazon link is just an example, there are lots of stores selling this camera. I got mine from China via Ebay, paid $45 in total.

u/DaSquid · 7 pointsr/baltimore

Dashcam for insurance purposes.

u/Stingray88 · 7 pointsr/hardware

>This entire thread is entirely about price.

Great, my comments aren't.

>What I wrote was entirely true. It's only untrue when you failed to recognize the clear distinctions I'd made.

Your distinction was that no single external drive on the market is able to saturate 10Gbps, because you were under the false assumption that an external NVMe SSD doesn't exist. That's literally what you said. That's what I'm quoting right here, once again:

>AFAIK, there is no (external) drive on the market able to saturate 3.1 gen 2, and probably won't be for some time. Saturating it requires RAID, the fastest of NVME SSD's in a (non existent?) external NVME enclosure, or a large number of extremely high data rate peripherals.

Once again, that's not true. That right there is a single drive, and its capable of saturating over 10Gbps. So once again... you're wrong.

>Where again can we buy an NVME enclosure in which to place a Samsung 960 pro?
Exactly.

I literally just linked it to you in my previous post. What is your deal man? It's right here. Click on it. That is an external enclosure that full supports a Samsung 960 Pro.

u/KorbenDallas11 · 7 pointsr/Dashcam

I have hardwired Mini0801 and Mini0805 cams in my vehicle. Can't run them without A/C during the summer where I live, but they run 24/7 during the cooler months. I have an AUX fuse block in the engine bay, so I just ran them off that and connected to them via the proper USB converter. A converter like this would work well if you go my route.

As for letting the other guy know how much his parking job sucks, I use the Parking Turtle. I keep a couple copies behind the seat in a pocket. Yeah, it is petty, but someone needs to call some of these assholes out. I doubt they'll "see the light" and park correctly, but oh well...

u/Fulmario · 7 pointsr/Dashcam

I had the same issue and discovered it was the hardwire kit and not the camera after I dug through reviews and bought a different brand kit.

I originally bought the Spytec one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MH4ZVHO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Worked fine for two days and then would reboot constantly when it got cold.

I replaced it with this EDO Tech one and have had no problems in since. Note, the USB side of the cable on the EDO Tech is a bit shorter than the Spytec. Measure your length needed to make sure it fits okay.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L3XXRI0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/cbusdavid · 7 pointsr/Columbus
u/Andrew_CarCamCentral · 7 pointsr/videos

The Yi is a good camera for the price and if you live somewhere cooler (England). Unfortunately, it loses focus in even mildly warm weather. I still think for most people the Viofo A119V2 for a $100 is a pretty good choice. I made a video way back that talks about some good choices. The only update I might make is switching our $60 general pick for the BlueSkySea B1W.

u/AtlUtdGold · 7 pointsr/Atlanta

I used the G1W-H($54.99) to take this video of a meteor I made a thread about over ago now. Basically the most recommended camera in the price range at the time and I've been happy with it. I did buy a different mount that I could cling it to my rear view mirror.

u/Al_Tilly_the_Bum · 6 pointsr/SaltLakeCity

I guess installed is a strong word for "attached to my windshield with a suction cup." I got this camera which is pretty cheap and the video is good quality. There are some minor issues as noted in some reviews but it is a great deal IMO

u/johnathanjacobs · 6 pointsr/Columbus

Weather was clear when the accident happened.

We use the Viofo A129 seen here which has a front and back camera. We haven't had to use it (thankfully), but the images are clear enough for me. I do need to move the rear dash cam down more as it's above the defrost lines.

I would highly recommend it as a sub-$200 dash cam.

u/EbbyB · 6 pointsr/SanJose

I got this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DLG9GFG/

I spent hour doing research and came up with a camera that was out of budget, so I figured "Amazon's Choice" outta be good enough in a pinch. Some settings took some tinkering (the G-sensor had to be disabled because every moderate pothole would lock video files until the card was full) but finally got it fairly reliable. I'm happy. :)

The day after I installed the it, a woman's car was burglarized right in front of my camera but the motion detection didn't trigger or catch anything. I was bummed; I could have been a hero!

u/dooshbox · 6 pointsr/CarAV

Front: Polk DB6501 $113.69

Rear: Polk DB651 $60.36

Mids/highs amp: Alpine MRV-F300 $138.69


Sub: Sundown SA-12 $194.99

Sub Amp: Hifonics BRX-1100.1 D $179.95

Total: $689 Rounded up, before taxes, box, and wiring.

u/illuxion · 6 pointsr/CarAV
u/kyyrbes · 6 pointsr/multicopterbuilds

Component | Recommendation | Price
---|---|----
Frame | ZMR250 | $38.00
Motors | SunnySky 2204 2300kv | $84.00
ESC's | MRM 12A Simonk | $46.00
Flight Controller | Naze32 | $22.00
Transmitter (TX) | Turnigy 9X | $60.00
Receiver (RX) | Turnigy 9X8C-V2 | Included with TX
Battery | 3S 1300mAh 30C | $11.00
Battery Lead | 16AWG Wire and XT60 | $2.00
Propellers | HQProp 6030 | $3.00
FPV Camera | Sony Boardcam | $26.00
vTX/RX | Boscam 200mW 5.8GHz | $40.00
Screen | 7" LCD | $28.00
Total | | $453.00 CAD

Notes:

  • Many of these parts go in and out of stock from domestic vendors. It is recommended that you shop around and find the best option for you.

  • This build comes out below your budget by quite a bit. While you will have to pay for shipping and such, I would advise that you put some of those extra funds toward more props and batteries... you're going to need them.

  • This kit will require some soldering. You can pick up a fairly cheap iron and some solder/flux (I recommend .03-.05) off amazon or from your local hardware store. I would advise practicing for a bit on some old electronics. Thrift stores are a great place to pick up an old motherboard if you don't have any laying around. Soldering is not very difficult and I was able to solder all my pins and other components after just an hour or so of practice!

u/[deleted] · 5 pointsr/AdviceAnimals

Certainly. One could also buy this and this and get SUBSTANTALLY better audio for half the price of Beats (but at the expense of that single red cord). Keep in mind these are open so there is a lot of sound leakage but for listener experience I think these hit the sweet spot as far as price and performance are concerned. Beats don't sound BAD but they are a fashion accessory in the same way Air Jordans aren't bad basketball shoes but they cost so much for name alone.

u/beth6han · 5 pointsr/Dashcam

For the best quality dual camera systems you will want one that records at 1080p both front and rear, and for that there doesn't seem to be anything presently available for under $200.

For under $200 and of lesser quality there are these:

http://www.amazon.com/HDE-Dashboard-Accident-Recording-Detection/dp/B00LAAVVOS

http://www.amazon.com/Z-Edge-Camera-Recorder-Vehicles-Included/dp/B010H0SL9O/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1464741278&sr=1-1&keywords=zero+edge+dual+lens+car+camera

http://www.amazon.com/AUTO-VOX-Rearview-Recorder-Micro-SD-Included/dp/B01B4EQQXA/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1464741380&sr=1-2&keywords=zero+edge+dual+lens+car+camera

http://www.amazon.com/Falcon-Zero-F360-HD-Mirror/dp/B00E56WY18/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1464741380&sr=1-3&keywords=zero+edge+dual+lens+car+camera

http://www.amazon.com/Transcend-TS32GDP520M-Drive-Recorder-Suction/dp/B0147R9PDO

http://www.amazon.com/Dreamkiller-Camera-Mirror-4-3-inch-Display/dp/B01ABEHKSO/ref=sr_1_1?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1464741748&sr=1-1&keywords=HD+CAR+DVR+Rear+View+Mirror

http://www.amazon.com/Toguard-G-Sensor-Reversing-Detection-Function/dp/B01DG8LL4Q/ref=sr_1_3?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1464741748&sr=1-3&keywords=HD+CAR+DVR+Rear+View+Mirror

http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Mirror-Camera-Backup-Recording/dp/B00WR6ZQTK/ref=sr_1_4?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1464741748&sr=1-4&keywords=HD+CAR+DVR+Rear+View+Mirror

I have never had a dual cam setup so I would not know what to recommend. You can take a look at the options I've listed and decide for yourself. As you can see, most of them are rear view mirror type.

u/fatmanjogging · 5 pointsr/uberdrivers

Do it. I use a Falcon Zero F360. It has two cameras - one facing out, one in, and it fits over your existing rear-view mirror.

I have mine set to record over a loop. If something goes down, I swap out the memory card.

I live and do most of my work in a single-party consent state. However, for when I cross over to another state, I do have stickers in the back seat that say "smile - you're on camera!"

I've never had a pax refuse to be recorded. However, I have had some ask what I do with the footage. I simply tell them, "if something crazy happens, I'll pop the memory card out and hang onto that footage. Otherwise, it all gets deleted." After I explain why I have the camera, passengers are totally down with it. Even the drunkest people understand that it's there for my safety.

u/drdrdrdrdr_and_dr · 5 pointsr/triangle

I have the Black Box dashcam that I got off Amazon. Got a 32gig microUSB for it and I plug it into the cig lighter (also plugs into USB). It turns on/off with ignition, but you could probably hardwire it into your map lights or right to the battery if you wanted.

u/shootamcg · 5 pointsr/Edmonton

https://www.amazon.ca/Spy-Tec-G1W-C-Camera-Capacitor/dp/B00JJ3SQRI/ref=pd_sim_107_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=77H2Y05REZAN2MRRH01B

This one is really great for the price. There is also a black version without the chrome ring around the lense that is a little less eye catchy (FWIW I just leave the chrome one setup in both vehicles full time).

I would recommend the mirror mount but it does come with a suction cup mount. Just need to toss in a micro SD card. It's easy to hide the USB cable and run it to your 12v socket.

u/xnzs · 5 pointsr/houston
u/TheAnimus · 5 pointsr/shittykickstarters

I think it is when you can buy today one for $210

https://www.amazon.com/Akitio-AMZ-T2PC-TIA-AKTU-Thunder2-PCIe/dp/B00LTAUTHE

This is a $100 markup, for something untested, that you will have to wait for 6 months+ for.

u/CptJango · 5 pointsr/Dashcam

This is the hardwire kit and this is the add a fuse

The add fuse will vary depending on the fuses your car uses.

u/theproftw · 5 pointsr/Dashcam

Give the Transcend DP520 a look, it has both front and backwards pointing camera towards the driver. The CF-100 while it is a great dual cam, is meant to point from the rear window, and isn't meant to provide an interior view.

u/quasimoomoo · 5 pointsr/Dashcam

That is a lot of money, but the magnetic removal looks good and Costco has a good return policy.

My first cam was a Garmin for a bit more than that Cobra and it's still the main cam in my DD. It's got speed/gps built in which I love.

For price though, we bought an Anker one for like $50 and it works great. It has a good and sensitive away mode that triggers if the car gets bumped which my Garmin doesn't have. Honestly, if you go with a name brand you'll be fine, or a not so known brand with good LEGIT reviews. Just gotta get that cam rolling to protect you from shitty people, and to entertain us :)

Roav DashCam A1, this one's in my wife's car, got two for front and back. $55 https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B076GYGVY5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vjcRCbF7EZS2B

u/BoughtHaven · 5 pointsr/JUSTNOMIL

This one

But haven’t tried it yet so cannot vouch for it.

u/Not_The_Ants · 5 pointsr/CSUS
u/Mesoholics · 4 pointsr/halifax

I recommend this one for two channel if you want front and rear cams, if you want to record in-car I am sure /r/dashcam could give you ideas. I have an A119 that records only the front view but I love it.

u/mandudebreh · 4 pointsr/dashcams

Yeah it can be a bit overwhelming. There are a lot of options and unfortunately, a lot of shit cams from China.

The selection you have picked out is good. I think you did a good job picking out the features of each cam, so go with what’s most important to you.

Dual cams are certainly nice. Some things like GPS logger are more gimmicks than actual useful features. Also regarding app use, it’s generally slow file transfer for all apps.

I’d go with the Rexing V1P Pro or check out the A129 Duo.

Also, if your camera doesn’t come with an AD card, make sure to get a high endurance model like this SanDisk. Dashcams place a lot of read write cycles on the cards so regular ones fail often.

u/SunSaw · 4 pointsr/ottawa

Blueskysea B1W
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0773FXVKL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_oJ8ESuTSxCNG8

The r/dashcam subreddit calls it the cheapest dashcam they can recommend. So I bought it. Wired it to the OBD2 with an inline switch.

u/jerseyguy195 · 4 pointsr/CarAV

http://smile.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459290714&sr=8-1&keywords=polk+audio+db6501 ..I've had these myself for 7 years and I love them. I have them and the db691 (3way 6x9) in my rear deck. The sound they produce is amazing, more so with an amp.

u/General_Annoyance · 4 pointsr/buildapc

I'm /u/whitefeather14's friend. If it's solely for headphones and you're not looking to spend a lot, then I would strongly recommend something by Fiio. I have an older one, the FiiO E7. They don't sell this one anymore, but they have a newer one called the FiiO E70k. I haven't personally used it, but I can only assume it's like mine but better.

If it's a little more than you want to spend, then I'd look at the Q1. I've heard good things about these as well.

These are nice, because they double as a USB dac and a portable headphone amplifier. Which means if you're traveling or something you can plug your phone into it and still get the amplifier out of it, no need for a USB source.

If that doesn't interest you, then there's the FiiO K1, which is just a USB DAC, and does not have an analog 3.5mm input, only the micro USB.

Now, understand that any of these aren't going to be the greatest DAC ever. Sub $100 is pretty cheap for a DAC, and I'm pretty sure these are all 24-bit, with 32-bit being more or less the best you can get (There's some debate on whether or not you can hear a difference, but that's entirely a different conversation.)

If you do want something a little more pricey and nice, the Schiit Modi DAC and Magni amp are really quite nice. They also have a Amp/DAC combination for $80 which I haven't heard anything about, but Schiit is pretty good.

The one /u/whitefeather14 said is a PreSonus AudioBox USB. You probably don't want this, as it is primarily an audio interface for recording instruments and microphones, and isn't a dedicated DAC, though the DAC is pretty nice, and as a bonus has a 1/4in headphone out as well as two 1/4in outs for L/R powered speakers, such as studio monitors, if that's of any benefit for you.

As for the SMSL one you posted, I have also heard good things about that one, though it's a desktop unit and does not have an analog 3.5mm input.

Let me know if you have any questions, I'm happy to help.

u/KingJunipr · 4 pointsr/CarAV

Ever consider a powered sub? Like the infinity basslink or Rockford Fosgate https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007AQ2W6W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZFBvzbVWXXRFW

They add lows without adding them to the car next to you.

u/LesZedCB · 4 pointsr/multicopterbuilds

[Formatted Example Response Post]

Component | Recommendation | Price
---|---|----
Frame | ZMR250 | $38.00
Motors | SunnySky 2204 2300kv | $84.00
ESC's | MRM 12A Simonk | $46.00
Flight Controller | Naze32 | $22.00
Transmitter (TX) | Turnigy 9X | $60.00
Receiver (RX) | Turnigy 9X8C-V2 | Included with TX
Battery | 3S 1300mAh 30C | $11.00
Battery Lead | 16AWG Wire and XT60 | $2.00
Propellers | HQProp 6030 | $3.00
FPV Camera | Sony Boardcam | $26.00
Recording Camera | N/A | N/A
Gimbal | N/A | N/A
Servos | N/A | N/A
vTX/RX | Boscam 200mW 5.8GHz | $40.00
Screen | 7" LCD | $28.00
Total | With FPV | $360.00
Total | Without FPV | $266.00

Notes:

  • You can get a much better radio. I recommend just adding to your budget. It's worth while. Search /r/multicopter for reasons why it's better! And the total only comes up to about $430.00 if you can wait for FPV.

  • If you want to add FPV eventually, you need to have an amateur radio license (technician level at least) to operate legally.

  • There are always additional little costs such as heat shrink, battery straps, etc.

  • Try to supply all my parts from the US. Mainly for shipping speed reasons! ;) The parts on this list that aren't from the US are the Radio TX and the Camera. The Taranis radio can be bought in the US, and the boardcam probably can too for a bit of a premium.
u/jaydotzee · 4 pointsr/Audi

The ipod-to-bluetooth adapter has to be a specific one. Unless the iOS software is present, Audi doesn't power the Bluetooth adapter, so it won't have electricity to turn on. I have the Viseeo Tune2Air because it mimicked iOS connection, Audi thinks I have an iPod/iPhone/iPad hooked up and powers the device and I connect Bluetooth for audio.

http://www.amazon.com/ViseeO-WMA1000-Tune2air/dp/B00B52LLJ6

u/scsibusfault · 4 pointsr/uberdrivers

$25 budget is going to get you... shit.

This one is roughly the cheapest "decent" one, and it's still not perfect. It's suggested here all the time. I've got one, and I don't hate it, though it does occasionally still corrupt videos or skip a few minutes here and there, which makes it unreliable. I can't imagine spending less than $100 on one.

https://www.amazon.com/Falcon-Zero-F360-HD-Included/dp/B00E56WY18/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522343827&sr=1-3&keywords=falcon+360

u/RutD0g · 4 pointsr/uberdrivers

To the op, that sucks. I'm sorry. It's wrong.

But now I hope you and everyone reading this will protect yourself by recording a video of everything that happens in your car!

GET A FUCKING DASHCAM


You don't even have to decide which one.
> The model I believe this driver used (and that I and a bunch of other old-timers in this sub use) has been sold as the Falcon Zero F360, Wicked HD WCD-5801, Black Box M1000, and now the Pyle PLCMDVR52.

> A year ago they were $150, now I see them going for as low as $75 (Pyle). EDIT: that was summer 2016. Prices have gone up again, perhaps because more people a buying them. But there are still some available for $100 as of July 2017.

> Falcon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00E56WY18/ref=dp_olp_all_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=all

> Wicked: https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00TZ7H8TU/ref=dp_olp_all_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=all

> Black Box: https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00WYH37CA/ref=dp_olp_all_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=all

> Pyle: https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B01GNL6R7Y/ref=dp_olp_all_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=all

> Some include an SD card and some do not, so take that into consideration for price comparison. Specs says it only takes up to 32gb cards, but I put in a 64gb card and formatted it in the camera (apparently that's important) and it worked fine. YMMV.

> This cam is one of those items designed in China and offered for sale under a variety of brands in the US, all of which nobody has heard of. ;)

> Here's a review emphasizing it's technical limitations, but showing it's unique form factor and value for taxi drivers.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eGt9yiHMJqU

> That YouTuber has a great intro guide to dashcams which I found very helpful:
http://www.techmoan.com/guide-to-dashcams/

> He's very tech and quality oriented, and as such recommends a $200 premium inside/outside camera, but it doesn't have the rear view mirror form factor, which is a real space saver.
http://www.techmoan.com/blog/2016/1/12/recording-inside-and-outside-the-car-with-the-transcend-driv.html


Searching around a bit, here's $85 free shipping, with 16GB SD Card.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Black-Box-M1000-Rearview-Mirror-Dash-Cam-Dual-Camera-Rotating-Lenses-Full-HD-Car-DVR-Video-Recorders-Wide-Angle-G-Sensor-60FPS-WDR-Night-Video-Motion/121437418

u/dcux · 4 pointsr/washingtondc

The G1W with a 16gb card. I'd probably opt for the 32gb in the future, but if it's just for accidents only and not youtube posting, 8gb should be fine.

G1W: http://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-Original-Dashboard-Dash/dp/B00FONBG1A

I'd probably get the G1WH if I were buying today (wider angle, black bezel, tho I painted the bezels on mine with matte black paint):
http://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-G1W-H-Hidden-Dashboard/dp/B00HMNFWYW

u/RobbieHodge · 4 pointsr/Charlotte

A not so expensive Aukey -
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M592J9C/?tag=rhodge11-20

Came with a great permanent 3m mount. Keeps it ultra stable and has never fallen off even in my lifted Jeep.

u/Cy001020 · 4 pointsr/dubai

Always better to use amazon. Com more options better prices. Slightly longer shipping time

Option 1 (newer model, capacitor based, no battery)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07HVNCQF3/ref=dp_ob_neva_mobile

Option 2 (this is the older capacitor based model and what I use)
https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Dashboard-Camera-Recorder-6-Lane/dp/B01M592J9C

The suction cup mount is useless and total junk. Stick to 3m tape mount option or find a rear view mirror mount.

u/kehfunah · 4 pointsr/vancouver

I have the g1w-c https://www.amazon.ca/Spy-Tec-Recorder-Dashboard-Authentic/dp/B00JJ3SQRI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505660812&sr=8-1&keywords=g1w&th=1

Cheap. Very good quality. IF you're not happy with it too, easy to return with amazon but this has been the best dash cam I've owned. Can see plates easily.

u/iRainMak3r · 4 pointsr/Seattle

I have this one right here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ3SQRI?ie=UTF8&at=&force-full-site=1&ref_=aw_bottom_links

I've had it for a few months and it's worked without any problems. You set it up and it just works. Turns on when you turn your car on, off when it's off, loops in 5 minute pieces and deletes the oldest one as it records more.

u/Masterleon · 4 pointsr/cars

You can hardwire it so it's always on. I'm using this kit on my G1W and if you tap it to an always hot fuse it'll stay on 24/7 without draining the battery.

u/tickertinkler · 4 pointsr/subaru

The wiring kit and the add a fuse tap. Get whichever tap for your size fuse in your interior fuse box. Run the wires in the headliner and down the a pillar.

I recommend the a118c dash cam.

https://www.amazon.com/Dash-Camera-Vehicle-Hard-Wire/dp/B00MH4ZVHO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474857212&sr=8-1&keywords=dash+cam+wiring+kit

https://www.amazon.com/Pico-0956PT-Blade--Circuit-Holder/dp/B001QRSBW0/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1474857229&sr=1-1&keywords=add+a+fuse





I copied this from a response I got when I was researching this.

u/hellojerb · 4 pointsr/Dashcam

You need a hardwire kit. There's tons out there. Check ebay. I got one for $8. It will have a step down transformer and ideally, an inline fuse. It will have a red power wire and a black ground wire.

Hook the ground wire to some bare metal. Most likely there is an easy bolt near the fuse box under the dash.

Hook the power wire to a key-on/switched power source - as in, the circuit is only powered when the key is in the ignition, that way the cam doesn't run when you're not in the car.

One way to do this is with an add-a-fuse to an existing fuse in the fuse box. Insert red wire into blue butt connector, crimp with pliers. Replace existing fuse with addafuse (addafuse takes two fuses- old + new). Be sure to size the new fuse correctly. Should be 1.5-2 amps.

Run the wires up the A-pillar and under the roof liner for a concealed, factory look.

Something like this is perfect: http://www.amazon.com/Dash-Camera-Vehicle-Hard-Wire/dp/B00MH4ZVHO

u/LaGrrrande · 4 pointsr/Dashcam

I used one of these and one of these

u/spicedpumpkins · 4 pointsr/buildapcsales

Ok so if you own these than you know that the earbuds meet at a hub. From bud to this hub the cords appear to be rubber and very flexible. Below that meeting hub the cord appears braided. The braided portion is relatively stiff and there are some users who report that it frays and/or kinks if repeatedly wound tightly.

I suggest you use the supplied carrying case and don't tightly bend the braided portion.

Now while these absolutely do not require any headphone amp to drive these things (a cellphone will easily drive these), I just for giggles paired them with my FiiO E17K that I use for my DT 990s and Sennheiser HD650s and they open up VERY well if not driven too hard.

This is my go to track to test any new headphones and earbuds I buy and the 1More Triples pass with flying colors.

This is a no brainer purchase if you are looking for sub $100 buds as long as you are careful with the cord.

u/Bwdzxc · 3 pointsr/CarAV

First of all, door speakers are not made for bass at all and that's probably why they are all blown.... The front speakers are 6.5 and the rear deck is 6x9. The headunit will power 4 speakers, so two front and two rear. The way the headunit does that is it has a internal amplifier. So for a substage you will need a external amp (depending on subwoofer). The RCAs on the back of the headunit go to the sub amp for signal. So for speakers, you said you have a tweeter mount in the front, so you will want a component set of speakers. Which means the mid driver and tweeter are separate as compared to something like a coaxial speaker. [Here] (http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ) is a nice of 6.5 component speakers. They are entry level but one of the best entry level. And for the back we will keep it Polk DB for all around the same sound, so [these.] (http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB691-9-Inch-Speakers/dp/B000P0R6KW) So with this setup you will have good clear sound in the front, and good sound in the back and should sound all the same, expect the front will sound better sense component speakers also have a separate crossover which filters frequencies so your speakers will play the correct Hz. Now about the substage we need some questions answered first. SPL (loudness), SQ (sound quality), or SQL (a mix)? Type of music you listen to? Willing to build a box? How much of the trunk space do you want to keep? Most, some, or "anything for bass bro" style which is none.

u/praetor- · 3 pointsr/CarAV

It looks like the stock locations can be easily modified to accept a 6.5" component set. Relevant threads here, here and a pic here.

This being said, the go-to on this subreddit would be the Polk DB6501s for the front and DB691s for the rear.

I'd spend the remaining $100 of your budget on sound deadening for the doors and rear deck.

u/vanquish421 · 3 pointsr/CarAV
u/itoldyouiwouldeatyou · 3 pointsr/audiophile

Received wisdom is that something like a Fiio E7 is the best way to go.

It provides a very good DAC and headphone amp, away from the "noisy" interior of the PC.

u/LunarMist2 · 3 pointsr/MLPLounge

Fiio makes some pretty nice budget and portable amps.

What are you looking for? For a introductory tube amp, I would reccomend the Vali + Modi amp/dac combo. They are made by Schiit, and their products are really good for their price.

u/rayraysupreme · 3 pointsr/audiophile

You should definitely get an amp for those. Something like the Fiio E11? (I'm sure others can chime in with better suggestions).
Also, don't forget to let them burn in.


In terms of gaming, you want an open headphone since they give wider soundstage.
If you need a mic, Modmics are popular or you can get a desktop mic.

With all that being said, DT770s are definitely an upgrade over most if not all gaming headsets so enjoy!

Tek Syndicate also have videos relating to this topic

u/fuimani · 3 pointsr/audiophile

If you have 100$ to drop on a headphone amp, get something like a Magni or an E11 and simulate the effects of that thing with an equalizer. You'll get the same results and much better sound, and the effect isn't literally baked into the hardware if you ever want to get rid of it and just have a nice amp.

u/TheSonicRetard · 3 pointsr/oculus

Someone lit the TSR signal, and thus I am here :P

I bought the Aura bass shakers and a Lepai LP-168HA 2.1 2 x 40-Watt Amplifier. My Bass shaker is rated for 50W, where the Lepai amp only comes with a 3A PSU, so I picked up a 6A PSU on the recommendation of someone in this subreddit, and it's been working fine (hasn't burned up or anything). I'm currently attaching it to a ford cobra seat, but just from the limited test use I've done so far, it works great. Definitely shakes my entire apartment when I turn it up.

The entire kit came out to about $90 after shipping, which I figured was a great price. I've seen someone recommend getting 4 amps and 4 transducers and mounting them on the corners of my seat, then running SimVibe to simulate each wheel independently, but I haven't tried that personally. Nor have I tried the actual brandname buttkicker, so I can't say how this solution compares. But I will say it adds a huge amount of immersion to Assetto Corsa.

EDIT: Oops, forgot the parts list:


AuraSound AST-2B-4 Pro Bass Shaker Tactile Transducer by Aura Sound - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ZPTBI/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_VjzVtb1MV70BA

Lepai LP-168HA 2.1 2 x 40-Watt Amplifier and 1x68W Sub Output by Lepai - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=asc_df_B0070Z87YO3169620?smid=A385A0XNQBW8HY&tag=pgmp-401-100-20&linkCode=df0&creative=395109&creativeASIN=B0070Z87YO

12v 6a Adapter Power Supply for LCD Monitor with Power Cord by LCD AC Power Adapter - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TUMDWG/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_tlzVtb1TKD73K?tag=viglink20241-20

u/rabidfurby · 3 pointsr/audio

Basically, there's two components to think about. An amplifier takes power and audio input (as stereo RCA plugs or a 1/8th inch jack) and outputs amplified audio (almost always as binding posts or clamps for speaker wire). Speakers take amplified audio as input (again, as binding posts/clamps for speaker wire) and make noise.

Active or powered speakers just means that you're buying the amp and the speakers integrated as one unit. M-Audio AV40s are a good example of this. Scroll down and you can see a picture of the back of one speaker. Power cord, RCA inputs, and speaker wire output to the other speaker.

Passive/unpowered speakers mean you're just buying the speakers, and you need to buy an amp separately. A good example of this is the Micca MB42x and Lepai LP-2020. Again, look at the back of each one to get an idea of how they're connected.

If you want simplicity, go for a pair of powered studio monitors. However, what you trade off with that is upgradeability - because monitors are integrated all-in-one, you can't easily add to them later on.

If you want to go the component route, I'd recommend a 2.1 amp (meaning it has outputs for 2 speakers plus a subwoofer) such as the Lepai 168HA. Add in some unpowered bookshelf speakers like those Micca MB42x, and you've got a great system for less than half your budget. Depending on how much room you have on the floor near your desk, you can also add a subwoofer, either now or at some point down the road. The Dayton Audio SUB-800 for example is small enough to fit under a desk pretty easily, and would still be within your budget.

u/MyUsernameIsJudge · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

https://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=2.1+lepai&qid=1564026642&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Here's that same amp but cheaper.

Even with that amp or any similar amp it's not going to power the sub, but it can connect to it. A sub will have it's own amplification. A 2.1 amp like that will allow you to connect a sub that doesn't have high level outputs, like the MartinLogan Dynamo 300 for reference (has high level inputs but no outputs)

On the sub you linked, assuming you go with the Micca's and the Lepy LP-2020A:

Speaker wire from the amplifier to the subwoofer "high level input", then speaker wire from the "high level output" to the speakers. That sub allows you to connect it with pretty much any existing stereo setup.

u/zupzupper · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Couple ideas for you:

  • There's a Pyle 2 channel amp with a usb charger on it, looks like it does a lot of extra stuff.

    Pyle

    Lepai

  • You may want to consider a wall splitter that does USB power + Regular outlet. It's probably going to be the cheapest option.

    Belkin Splitter
u/BubbzWasHere · 3 pointsr/CarAV

I've heard good things about the Rockford Fosgate P300-10 or P300-12. They aren't a tube per say, but a samll-ish sub box with a 300 watt amp built in. The 12 runs $250. https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P300-12-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B007AQ2W6W/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=p300-12&qid=1563151399&s=gateway&sr=8-1

u/rdwtoker · 3 pointsr/CarAV

Here's two options:

A.)

sub and amp.

box.

Total: $166.03

B.)

amp and sub

wiring kit

Total: $209.79

u/a8ksh4 · 3 pointsr/CarAV

You'll have to be thrifty @ $500, but I think you can put something together that sounds good.

  • $250 - Small sealed sub and amp
  • $250 - Two sets of component door speakers and 4-channel amp
  • $100 - wiring kit, harness adapters, etc.
  • $100 - cd deck with Bluetooth to pair your phone to.

    I have a 5-channel amp in my truck with 4x 75w (only using two channels here) and 1x 350 w for the sub. It's plenty loud. The 5 channel is nice for simplicity, but doesn't leave any room to grow if you decide you need a bigger sub or something.

    People talk about powered subwoofers on here once in a while, you'll find recommendations if you search. E.g. https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P300-12-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B007AQ2W6W/

    You might need to play with the sub position to get it to sound good in teh van (might resonate at some frequency in the back corner but sound better a few feet forward, etc. TBD. If you give it a few feet of cord, you can move it to the back fo the van when you''re listening to music ouside the back doors.

    These are affordable and sound good: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANI3LAK/
    https://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-KMM-BT322-Player-Bluetooth-sirius/dp/B07CNWRC65

u/CarnivoreForLife · 3 pointsr/CarAV
u/Or4nge · 3 pointsr/videography

I spent a little over $1000 for a phantom 2, a gopro 4 black, a 2 axis gimbal and a couple other random things like extra batteries and carrying case. The older model phantom 2 (I got mine on ebay) goes for a bout $550 with the remote and a battery but without the zenmuse gimbal. The gopro was $500. The gimbal was $50 from china and it works amazingly well. Just as good as the h3-2d imo. those three things are pretty much all you need to start getting some good shots. So for about $1100 you could have a very good aerial rig. If you're looking for fpv also you can find really god kits for around $300. I threw together a cheap FPV kit of my own with stuff I found on Amazon. $38 Transmitter/Receiver $26 Monitor $7 Antenna set $10 Gopro Video Cable $17 3s lipo

u/zbowman · 3 pointsr/radiocontrol

Here's my list in case it helps anyone:

u/xasper8 · 3 pointsr/LosAngeles

I've been flying RC stuff for a long time and built my quad - basically out of the ruble of other quads I have destroyed or upgraded.

There are now quads on the market that are ready to to aerial video right out of the box - look into DJI Phantoms.

Also check out the forums at http://www.rcgroups.com/ - there are a TON of knowledgeable people there.

If you are more...daring and confidant in your building skills look at http://diydrones.com/ or http://aeroquad.com/

I built my FPV set up with:

One of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007SLDF7O/ref=oh_details_o04_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

One of these: http://www.harborfreight.com/18-x-13-x-6-aluminum-case-69315.html

And some black foam board I got at Michael's.

And the transmitter and receiver is: Boscam 5.8Ghz FPV System (TS352 TX + RX305 RX / 500mw)

With an upgraded antenna: Boscam 5.8Ghz Cloud Spirit Antenna

PM me if you need more info.

u/kstrike155 · 3 pointsr/Audi

Take a look at XCarLink. People on Audizine have used it.

You can easily get bluetooth streaming with your factory head unit using a CoolStream or Tune2Air 1000 (if you have the factory iPod cable) or Tune2Air 3000 (if you don't).

u/vigillan388 · 3 pointsr/Audi

Everyone recommends the ViseeO Tune2Air. I plan on picking one for myself for my 09.

u/synteur · 3 pointsr/BMW

You're going to want this exact model, and plug it into the aux USB dongle.

I've got a 2011 328i with no iDrive console and came across the same issue: Bluetooth pairing is limited to calls, and the USB dongle uses up my phone's connector (and provides little to no charge for my phone). Other standard Bluetooth adapters will only transmit audio, and the wheel controls / song display won't work. The Tune2air works perfectly: bluetooth connection for audio + calls, track names and wheel controls can change volume and skip, while freeing up my phone's connector to charge via the cigarette lighter.

u/TheBoosch · 3 pointsr/Audi

Most people that don't have the MMI with navigation get this:

Bovee 1000 Wireless Bluetooth Music Interface Adapter for in Car iPod Integration https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B52LLJ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pp9RybX85KTKT

It connects to your current 30 pin connector and you can control the music from the car.

u/turisto · 3 pointsr/Jaguar

http://www.amazon.com/ViseeO-Tune2air-WMA1000-Bluetooth-Integration/dp/B00B52LLJ6/

I use this to stream via bluetooth from my phone. It works great!

u/complexery · 3 pointsr/Audi

I haven't bought one, but I've heard that this works great. (plus it makes it bluetooth). Your car has two bluetooth connections with your car, for the phonecalls, and for the music. From your cars perspective it is still getting music from an iPod.

I found this info at audizine a few months back, so do a search there.

http://www.amazon.com/ViseeO-WMA1000-Tune2air/dp/B00B52LLJ6/ref=sr_1_1?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1371222376&sr=1-1&keywords=Tune2Air+WMA1000

u/SavvyByNature · 3 pointsr/infiniti

Go with the wma1000 on amazon. You would only need an additional power source via cig port, but will stream using the iPod connector over Bluetooth.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B52LLJ6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/LoungeFlyZ · 3 pointsr/Audi

I have the same car and use one of these: ViseeO Tune2air WMA1000

Works well.

u/blueshiftlabs · 3 pointsr/news

G1W-H, or if you're in a place that gets really hot and you don't want to deal with batteries exploding, G1W-C.

u/Jack_Attak · 3 pointsr/kansascity

Weird. I've bought four G1W-H cameras and all of them work perfectly with no gaps between files. Are you sure that you got a legitimate camera? There are a lot of knock-offs.

u/kraze1994 · 3 pointsr/videos

G1W-H is a great starting point in dash cams.

u/triplers120 · 3 pointsr/Dashcam

B1W ($47-55 USD)

One of the mods recommends this as the cheapest reliable option.

I have a Yi Dashcam ($45ish) that has done well in the Texas heat. It is battery operated, instead of capacitor, which is a downside.

u/LaterallyHitler · 3 pointsr/Dallas
u/cantevendeal · 3 pointsr/Roadcam

It’s actually a VIOFO A129. I drive a Nissan Murano but also have another car I haven’t wired up yet since buying this car so it’s just a custom watermark!

u/GlitchedGamer14 · 3 pointsr/Edmonton

If you're looking to upgrade, I have the Viofo A129 Duo. It comes with a front and rear camera, and they're both 1080p!

u/swimmingmunky · 3 pointsr/IdiotsInCars

I use this one. I've had no trouble with it and I love the clarity. The wire is extra long so you can tuck it into the paneling of your car and wrap it around to a power source. It looks really nice with no exposed or dangling wires. I also like that it automatically turns on and off with the car ignition so I never have to touch the camera. Just drive and forget.

u/DaBIGmeow888 · 3 pointsr/Dashcam

The recommended budget dashcams that offer Wifi include B1W dashcam (capacitor-based) and Yi Smart dashcam (battery-based). These two will suit most drivers very well and both are in the $50 price range.

Where do you live in the US by the way?

u/Daenks · 3 pointsr/houston

For a recommendation, I bought two of these last year after someone intentionally rammed my vehicle several times on the gulf freeway because I would not let him cut me off. they have proved invaluable since. i wish there was a way i could submit dash cam footage with a police report easily.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HMNFWYW/

I had my mechanic run the usb power to the car's battery so when i start the car the cameras start (cost me $30 to have this done). I have one in the front and one in the back. They are wide angle lenses so they capture quite a bit; and they have accelerometers that will write-lock a section of footage when an "incident" occurs.

my only qualm is that the quality could be better; but license plates and faces come out just fine.

u/raabco · 3 pointsr/Roadcam

YouTube compression even crushed some of the quality. It's a G1W-H, bought from here, took less than 2 weeks for delivery. I'd highly recommend it for the price.

u/Mitch_from_Boston · 3 pointsr/boston

I used to use a GoPro but it gets too hot and has too short a recording time. And you have to manually turn it on and off. Not to mention the theft factor since they're so popular.

Get a G1W-C on Amazon from SpyTec. Video quality is superior to GoPro, IMO, though audio is worse. You turn your car on, it turns on, turn your car off, it turns off. Automatic overwriting. Set it and forget it. You can even hard wire it for 24/7 recording.

u/Jellybeanmonkey · 3 pointsr/Winnipeg
u/BoothHall · 3 pointsr/Dashcam

Here's one from a known reputable seller.
http://www.amazon.com/Spy-Tec-STI_G1W-C-Capacitor-Dashcam/dp/B00JJ3SQRI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1453177131&sr=8-2&keywords=G1W-C
This model has the capacitor which is generally preferred over battery.

u/botheyes · 3 pointsr/AmIFreeToGo

I have a [Spy Tec STI_G1W-C Full HD 1080P Capacitor Edition Dashcam] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ3SQRI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and it takes just a quick twist to point it at the drivers or passenger window. It will rotate 360°, the power doesn't run through the swivel fitting, it plugs directly into the camera body. On one of my cars the glass is more "steep" and you have to tilt it a bit to turn a 90° but it's good enough.

u/llDemonll · 3 pointsr/cars

G1W-H $50

16GB Class 6 Card $10

I have this setup, works great. Terribly hard to beat for the price

u/PM-ME-A-NUMBER · 3 pointsr/Calgary

60 bucks

Got one for my dad, and it saved him $1500 (and god knows what insurance premiums) within a month.

u/dick_wool · 3 pointsr/newjersey

I'm looking at 2 budget dash cams: The mobius and the g1wh.

The Mobius fits neatly behind the rear-view mirror and seems like the most discreet option out there because of its small size. However it doesn't have an lcd screen if that's important to you.

I also like the G1WH because it's a bit cheaper but still has good reviews. It has a screen, however its not as discreet as the mobius and may not fit behind your rear-view mirror. But for 50+ bucks its a bargain.

Check out /r/dashcam or www.dashcamtalk.com for more dash cams. Theres many other options out there.

u/him7403 · 3 pointsr/vancouver

First you have to decide what type you want - battery or capacitor?
Capacitor ones are costlier but they work well under heat unlike the battery. (In Vancouver, I don't think I needed a capacitor based cam)
Then you can search for that type, I try wirecutter first: http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-dash-cam/
I bought this spy tec for 60$ from amazon.ca which is cheap but works great!

u/INRtoolow · 3 pointsr/Brampton

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00KZ0J452/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Price seems high atm. Bought twice little under $60 not too long ago

u/Captain_Midnight · 3 pointsr/pcgaming

The technology is already pretty common. The only difference now is a newer version of Thunderbolt.

u/PonkyBreaksYourPC · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Well it's something you'd leave on your desk and unplug when you wanted to move around just like a PC.

apple/comments/31sa47/has_anyone_used_a_external_gpu_through_thunderbolt/

http://www.amazon.com/Akitio-Thunder2-PCIe-Box/dp/B00LTAUTHE

This works with TB 1 too. Obviously you'd need a GPU to stick in it.

u/teh_utyske · 3 pointsr/lowendgaming

https://www.amazon.com/Akitio-AMZ-T2PC-TIA-AKTU-Thunder2-PCIe/dp/B00LTAUTHE

There are also a lot of build guides out there. I have no idea if you're able to use one with your PC tho, and I've never tried to build one myself.

u/Triks1 · 3 pointsr/Miata

Most people suggest this one here I am using this but the capacitor version is always suggested over the battery. I haven't run into any issues so far. I can only see the corner of it poking out of my mirror so it doesn't obstruct my view.

I was able to hard wire it with these:

Power adaptor

Fuse add-a-curcuit

u/fmtriple · 3 pointsr/Porsche

I followed this video for my install: https://youtu.be/kTZ6_guh6nM
I used this hardwire kit for my A119 dashcam: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MH4ZVHO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/PhDinBroScience · 3 pointsr/ToolBand

I have a pair of Sennheiser HD 650's and a FiiO E17K Aspen 2 portable DAC.

Those two combined with the proper EQ settings for the headphones = fucking Nirvana.

That setup plus the FLACs from HDtracks is going to be my experience for the new album.

u/QuipA · 3 pointsr/headphones

150 for an HD650 is a good deal and a properly amped HD650 is taking a huge dump on the HD598CS. But using the HD650 portable is not possible, due to its open back build and the poor isolation and high sound leakage that comes with it.

The HD650 is a headphone for desktop use only and using it with a portable amp does not make much sense.

If you really need a portable DAC/Amp and want to amp an HD650 the logical choice would be

  • FiiO E17K
  • in combination with a K5

    ___

    Don't understand me wrong. The Fulla 2 will most likely work with everything you throw at it. But don't expect it to drive the HD650 while listening to Clair de lune with a track gain of +19dB
u/metalmartyr · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I went ahead and preemptively ordered this DAC/AMP, mostly because it's fairly cheap and has good reviews. I feel like I'm entering the audiophile rabbit hole from which there may be no coming back.

u/disgruntled_upvoter · 3 pointsr/uberdrivers

I use the Transcend DP520 and it works great! Also has good night vision. It's a bit pricey, but WELL worth it.

u/unnecessary_innuendo · 3 pointsr/Whatcouldgowrong

Road incidents are part of why I decided to order a /r/dashcam . More evidence for liability, and gives me a personal incentive to be a better driver and not lose my shit at people since it's recording me too. I personally ordered this one since it has a front and rear cam.

Now, if only Amazon would ship the damn thing already; it's already in the delivery window.

u/SarnXero · 3 pointsr/longisland
u/BBSki · 3 pointsr/lyftdrivers

Screw Lyft and whatever policy they may have about it (they don't) this is your vehicle and your security. You are a private contractor according to them, they can't tell you what kind of hammer to use.

I use this with a 128gb card and have been happy with it:
https://www.amazon.com/Transcend-Drive-Recorder-Suction-TS32GDP520M/dp/B0147R9PDO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1550783504&sr=8-3&keywords=transcend+520

u/FatchRacall · 3 pointsr/GoodValue

I have a Transcend Drivepro 520. It has the "cabin" camera as well as the front facing one. Good if you want to drive rideshare. Also, the cabin camera rotates independent of the front facing camera so if you get pulled over, you just twist it and catch the interaction on video. It's not perfect (getting the video off the camera takes forever over wifi, for example, but you could pop the SD card out instead if you wanted) but it's done the job for me.

u/oh_nice_marmot · 3 pointsr/boston

this or
this

/r/dashcam sidebar has some other options and more information.

u/protocol114 · 3 pointsr/ColoradoSprings

I have this one and I like it. Good FOV, good quality, decent in night time. Software seems pretty sane too, with hit detection, lots of configurable options.

u/blueScubie · 3 pointsr/subaru

I just looked it up and I've got [this camera](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M592J9C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1), which I got on sale for about $45. I don't really worry about it getting stolen. Cameras are getting more and more common now. It sounds like you don't have one based on your questions.

​

I'd say when you're looking for one take a good look at the reviews and reliability for them from lots of people. You don't have to spend a lot (some you can get for $30 or less!) but it's mainly features and reliability. Some have shock sensors that will automatically record/save when it detects sudden, big movement (like a collision/knock), even when the car is off. Some have GPS with the ability to record speed, but I've read that it's smart to turn that off just in case it can be used against you.

​


My biggest learning moments were resolution and video failure/reliability. For resolution I mean how much detail you can make out in the video. For obvious reasons you may want to be able to get license plate details from your recordings. The quality in my gif is crap but the original is 1080p and I CANNOT read plates with it. So I got into the habit of audibly reading plates out loud so it can be captured by the audio in the video.

​

Video reliability: I don't always pull the memory card to grab a video file (like this incident) but twice now when I have the video was missing or damaged. It was frustrating because who knows how many other times it has happened but I never needed the video so I didn't know. And those incidents where I lost the videos or couldn't get them were small annoyances like the OP. If it was a serious incident and I found out after the fact that the cam had stopped recording or the file was corrupt or whatever else I'd be really upset. They could have been complete flukes but who knows. For that reason you may want to get a cam considered widely reliable by many and lessen that risk.

​

​

But bottom line is that I think everyone should get a dashcam. It is nice to know you've got proof of an incident if something happens and also makes you a little more cognizant of what you're doing behind the wheel. I'm not a super expert at these things but I believe dashcamtalk.com is THE place to go to learn and get answers/suggestions!

u/GameShowKid · 3 pointsr/couriersofreddit

I've used this one for a year and a half and I've been very happy with it.

u/BBQRulesRunsReds · 3 pointsr/kansascity

Sorry for the late response.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M592J9C/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got it a little cheaper, maybe $50. Make sure you buy the correct SD card. Needs to be at least a Class 10 and U1 is better. I need to get a polarizing filter for it. Only frustration so far is actually with the car. Because of the radar cruise control I can only mount it in the corners of the windshield, but I currently think it's in a decent spot.

Let me know if you have any other questions!

u/buttpincher · 3 pointsr/IdiotsInCars

No offense to OP but this is a better product for the same price. Anker makes great stuff

Roav DashCam A1, by Anker, Dash Cam, Dashboard Camera Recorder, 1080P FHD, Nighthawk Vision, Wide-Angle View, WiFi, G-Sensor, WDR, Loop Recording, and https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076GYGVY5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_QHmO58pDnQSMT

u/prashant_sh · 3 pointsr/driving

I am currently using this one . Video quality is pretty good and you can see the footage on its mobile app. It's by Anker.

I would also recommend getting an endurance card rather than normal sd card. Like this one.

u/ezcry4t3d · 3 pointsr/BoltEV

I second the Roav nomination. I have THREE Roav A1in my Bolt, Front, Rear, and Charge Port.

I've had them about a year and have had zero issues. I've pulled numerous incidents off the cameras and posted them online for my friends.

I paid about $43 each for them from Amazon.

Also, be sure you get good SD cards. Bad cards lead to no video when you really need it. I have these Samsung Evo Selects and have not had one fail yet.

u/-TheDangerZone · 3 pointsr/Golf_R

Thanks! Getting more and more accustomed to it every day. Coming from an 02' WRX, performance cars have come a long way.

The dash cam is this one here, picked it up over the holidays for $50 on an Amazon lightning deal. Looks like it's a few bucks cheaper now. No complaints so far and has all the basic features. Bought my wife an Anker Roav that seems a bit higher quality in terms of fit and finish.

Did the install myself, pretty easy to run the cord under the plastic trim and siding so it's completely hidden up until it drops down from the windshield.

u/quasimodoca · 3 pointsr/gadgets

The consistent dashcam voted best by /r/dashcam is this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Blueskysea-Recorder-Rotatable-G-Sensor-Recording/dp/B0773FXVKL

u/Doloriferous · 2 pointsr/Dashcam

Hey buddy. I'm fairly new here just started driving for uber. Take a look at the recommendations they make on the right side bar here at /dashcam. I've been looking for a good one since last night. The transcend seems to be my favorite (obviously most expensive)@ $200 but I firmly believe you get what you pay. I wish there was a physical location to pick it up from other than Walmart (two that I've gone to have been completely sold out of all dash cams, not sure if I'm just unlucky) If you do decide to go online amazon has it for the low @ $149 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0147R9PDO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Unfortunately next day shipping is $25 but that is still better than what reddit says and what Walmart is

Also, heres a review on it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z4HfYizRHiw. Please take into consideration that to upload the video the creator of the content had to sacrifice a little resolution, but it's still a very sharp image that you can expect to be even better when in your own personal use.

u/ElonMesk · 2 pointsr/dashcams

That’s a decent budget cam. Definitely worth it if that’s what your looking for. The other one in this category is the Aukey dashcam, but either one is good. Not sure if they have parking mode though. For that you’re looking at the A119.

u/itzthanh24 · 2 pointsr/CaliforniaTicketHelp

Btw, forgot to mention this, but the dash cam is: AUKEY Dash Cam https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M592J9C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BhKLDbX0NBQ26

u/phi303 · 2 pointsr/Denver

This is the camera that's on my dash

u/duckssayquackquack · 2 pointsr/tulsa

This is the one I bought recently. I'm on my 3rd in about 4 years. So far, no complaints except sometimes in warmer weather, the suction fails and it falls off my windshield. I should probably just take it down every day - but I'm too lazy to put it up and take it down every day.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M592J9C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/GT3Racer · 2 pointsr/GrandCherokee

I've been using this one for a few months now. I really like, it's been pretty good. I recorded a crash on it within 2 weeks of having it lol

u/blcfla · 2 pointsr/orlando

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M592J9C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Comes with USB power adapter with spare port for phone charger, also comes with two different mounts and mounting clips to run the wire around the top/side of windshield down to the front console for power.

Had it a few weeks or better no issues yet...

u/Psilox · 2 pointsr/gifs

Same position, so I ended up just getting this one by Anker because it was cheap and the samples look good. Like it so far, and I don't think anything more expensive would be worth it for me.

u/tastytoe4411 · 2 pointsr/Dashcam

Roav DashCam A1, by Anker, Dash Cam, Dashboard Camera Recorder, 1080P FHD, Nighthawk Vision, Wide-Angle View, WiFi, G-Sensor, WDR, Loop Recording, and Night Mode https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076GYGVY5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MVzCCbF3CDHAS

u/Slybandit247 · 2 pointsr/lyftdrivers

Are you shitting me? For $200 it better have gps. There are plenty of dash cams out there with mini cams meant for reversing that you could use for inside the car, if you are looking for a dual lens cam. This Dashcam by Roav/Anker is a great product. Comes with the right 32gb micro sd card you need for recording and it has WiFi to connect to your phone to display what it sees, as well as other info, in the app. It also has GPS built in, great feature for tracking your trips. Shock sensor, etc. I really like that you mount it and take it off the mount when you want, unlike others where you end up ruining the suction cup. One of my favorite features is how Anker really does look out for you by providing not only the MicroSD card but a 2-Port charger and a cable. This is by the same company but it’s a cheaper, A1. This one doesn’t come with the micro SD but if found a nice one for $7-10. It also has WiFi so it syncs with an app on your phone but no gps. They also give you a charger but only a 1 port. IMO you can spend a ton on some random dash cam or buy quality and from a company with great customer service aka Anker. If it’s dual lens you’re looking for, I’m currently shopping around as well finding draw backs with each one. If only Roav made one...

u/DM_Zavulon · 2 pointsr/uberdrivers

I have the Roav Dashcam S1 for the road. Great quality video and recording of sound. Easy to setup and use. I would assume the Roav Dashcam a1 would be just as good and it can face everyone in the car. https://www.amazon.com/Dashboard-Recorder-Nighthawk-Wide-Angle-Recording/dp/B076GYGVY5/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549496163&sr=8-3&keywords=roav

u/InsuranceManFed · 2 pointsr/cars

Keep in mind that you never want to underinsured and exposed to loss but you also want to make sure that you’re not overinsured and be paying for coverage that you’ll (hopefully) never need.

And you’re spot on about what you can and can’t control which is why a few months ago I bought this dash cam so that if I ever need to dispute an accident then there’s no doubt. It plugs into a USB port in my car and when I turn the car on the camera automatically turns on and when I turn the car off the camera automatically turns off after a minute or so. Without a doubt one of the best purchases I made in 2018.

Roav DashCam A1, by Anker, Dash Cam, Dashboard Camera Recorder, 1080P FHD, Nighthawk Vision, Wide-Angle View, WiFi, G-Sensor, WDR, Loop Recording, and Night Mode https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076GYGVY5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6ANwCbR21NDT6

u/dericn · 2 pointsr/HelpMeFind

There are a number of car dashcams that have wifi to view/download clips (a hotspot that you log into with an app on your phone). They run on 5V (mini or micro USB connector), so you can use a standard phone charger to power them. They loop record, overwriting the oldest clip, so micro SD card size (and resolution setting) dictates how many hours it can hold.

One example, but if you search for wifi dashcam, you'll find others.

u/bookworm326 · 2 pointsr/indianapolis

This is the one I use. I got a micro SD card with that had 128gb file size. Hope this helps. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076GYGVY5/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_Sgv3DbB49W5X8

u/TheGrog · 2 pointsr/rva

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076GYGVY5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

On lightning deal right now, I have the same one. Super easy install, works great, pulls videos easy via app over wifi. Just needs SD card.

u/senorgarcia · 2 pointsr/FortWorth
u/dangerous_dave · 2 pointsr/Miata

Not OP but I use this one and its pretty stealthy behind the mirror

https://imgur.com/fH9oxTU

u/new_account_bch · 2 pointsr/CarsIndia

this just got delivered to me. 2800 rupees in all but it requires a class 10 memory card or above so take that into account. I bought this from a different seller for a bit cheaper but it had free shipping as well.

Other than that we have this one which is recommended by dashcamtalk as a good budget camera. If you have a high budget you can go for this one. If you are on a tight budget but are not comfortable buying from Aliexpress this one might be for you. Other than that Viofo A118, A119 are quite popular in India as well.

u/Bullets_TML · 2 pointsr/Roadcam
u/sameshitdifferentpoo · 2 pointsr/IdiotsInCars

This one has paid for itself 10x over in the two wrecks I've had within the past year. Once was in a parking garage and the other time I got rear-ended and pushed into the car in front of me.

It's an investment, but it's well worth it in my experience.

u/karlgnarx · 2 pointsr/CCW

> A129

Further up, someone recommended the A129 which is a dual cam version of the A119.

https://www.amazon.com/VIOFO-2-Channel-1080p-Camera-Logger/dp/B07CT6JPYW

u/mt_head · 2 pointsr/CivicX

Going to get this
https://www.amazon.ca/VIOFO-2-Channel-1080p-Camera-Logger/dp/B07CT6JPYW


Right now I have the A119 front only but I'm going to replace with this. One of my videos made the local news for road rage.


edit : check https://www.reddit.com/r/Dashcam/ on the right side.

u/JamesPhilip · 2 pointsr/Dashcam

I bought mine a few weeks back pieced together on Amazon. I saw that listing too, but I skipped it because it looks like you get 4 different types of fuse taps. And you need two of the correct type. So I think you'll end up with one fuse tap that works and 3 that are useless, but I could be wrong. Here's what I did:

$10 coupon brings it to $160 for the A129 with gps mount:
VIOFO A129 Duo 2-Channel Full HD 1080p 30fps Car Dash Camera with GPS Logger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CT6JPYW/

VIOFO A129 Dash Cam 3 Wire Acc HK3 Hardwire Kit for Parking Mode https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K83R5W1/

ABN Fuse Tap Fuse Holder & Fuse 2-Pack – 12V Add a Circuit Kit – ATM Low Profile Mini Fuse Blade & 15A AMP Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BU59K90/

This is only ~$1.50 more than the listing you were looking at but it definitely has the right fuse taps.

u/OrpheusNYC · 2 pointsr/GolfGTI

This is what I would go with. I got the version without GPS for $10 less and immediately regretted it, so then purchased the GPS mount for like 12 bucks.

u/Atropos_Is_Here · 2 pointsr/dashcams

Amazon link for the lazy:

VIOFO A129 Duo 2-Channel Full HD 1080p 30fps Car Dash Camera GPS Logger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CT6JPYW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_b7WMBbVEFR1EZ

How do group buys work OP?

u/JustOneAndDone · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Viofo A129 GPS Dual Lens Dash Cam Full HD 1080P 140° Wide Angle Dashboard Camera w/GPS, Low Light Vision G-Sensor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CT6JPYW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2gJSDb2JYRGV2

I highly recommend any dashcam period but I like this one since it’s well hidden, has both front and back, and you can view the videos on your phone by streaming them to the app. However the quality can be a lot better. So if you want quality over functionality I would recommend another one.

u/djrbx · 2 pointsr/Dashcam

I use the Viofo A129. Had it for a few months now after upgrading from a different model. This camera is awesome.

u/Dippyskoodlez · 2 pointsr/Dashcam
u/808plague · 2 pointsr/IdiotsInCars

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DLG9GFG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AGQvCb8WHN63G
This is the one i use and i absolutely love it, has a mode for whem your car is parked and it monitors surrounding and the video quality is really good

u/Mofrapp2157654 · 2 pointsr/Dashcam

This is the one I got

Pretty awesome video, and my charger was just long enough to wire it around so it’s not in view. Nothing fancy like phone connectivity or anything, but definitely great value for money.

Edit: I just posted a video of footage you can see in my profile

u/remmiz · 2 pointsr/milwaukee

I've got an extra one of these in the box collecting dust if you'd like to buy it off me. I have one in my car and it's been great.

u/hughe2mj · 2 pointsr/Denver
u/CBruce · 2 pointsr/CarAV

> The Polk components are quality but really need the additional wattage of an amplifier to sound their best

I hear this a lot and the more I learn about audio components, the less sense this makes. Any type of speaker is going to sound 'better' with an external amp in the right circumstances. IE, powering them beyond what your head unit's amp is capable of.

But, component speakers aren't some kind of mystical audio unicorn. They're essentially the same thing as a coaxial speaker (separate drivers to reproduced limited bands of audio). The difference between a coaxial and a set of components is A) a better crossover, B) a larger tweeter, and C) separate components so that the tweeter can be placed for better sound imaging. These features aren't anything to scoff at, but they don't require an amp to function.

OP shouldn't shy away from getting a component set because they won't have an amp. Especially with the Polk db6501 available for less than $130. Those speakers will still sound good running off of the head unit's amp. Particularly if he doesn't have second front channel speakers installed in the dash/A pillar/sail panel/upper door already.

This post isn't meant to attack you personally, just questioning the conventional wisdom that component speakers 'really need an amp to sound their best'.

u/rougetoxicity · 2 pointsr/CarAV

In my opinion, you made a mistake with those speakers. Those are some of the more harsh speakers on the market.

Not to mention that they don't even have a legit Crossover, they are basically coaxial speakers not attached together. for another 20$ you could have gotten the extremely acceptable Polk-DB6501 component set which has nice mellow tweeters, as well as a crossover that gives you three tweeter level options.

I know i'm not helping much by telling you that you got bad speakers, but thats what i suspect.

But, one other possibility is that you have some funky wiring going on... did you use the stock wiring? I'm not sure what the situation is with that car, but if if came with a separate tweeter/woofer component set stock, they may have some sort of crossover built into the wiring. You might try running some new wire and making sure they are wired correctly.

u/themadpants · 2 pointsr/Wrangler

I have the 4100NEX too. Love it.

I went with an Alpine PDX-V9 for the amplifier:

https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-PDX-V9-5-Channel-Extreme-Amplifier/dp/B007VSXGOQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1493233218&sr=1-1&keywords=pdx-v9

Polk DB6501 crossovers for the speakers:

https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ

My sub is the slimline JL 10tw3-d4:

https://www.amazon.com/Jl-Audio-10tw3-d4-Shallow-mount-10/dp/B00EJWSLBU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1493233136&sr=1-1&keywords=JL+TW3

The box requirements are tiny for the sub, and the bass is amazing! The amp is really small but powerful.

Sound quality is awesome with the top on or off. I got the bass adjustment knob for the amp to help with this.

u/DePiddy · 2 pointsr/MINI

Front speakers, I think that's all you have to replace currently.

Rear, handles all of my bass nicely, although I do have a shallow mount amp and an Alpine M500 in the basement for a rainy weekend.

Or buy a pair of door handles from a R53 that had the H/K package and get yourself these!

That's my pick. I would personally just buy the H/K door handles that have the tweeter built in, cut out the grill and set those tweeters in there however you please. I tacked them in there with a smidge of glue from a glue gun, then filled the rest with silicone. Haven't budged yet. You'll have to run the speaker wires through on your own though. I can post instructions for that if it's required.

Edit: Link

u/deeveeance · 2 pointsr/audiophile

From my personal experience, I jumped from the Behringer UCA202 to an Audioengine D1 now, since I bought a set of Beyerdynamic DT990 Pro's.

I played around with a friend's setup, and he really loved the Fiio E7 at ~$60

Portable, good looking and can handle your cans without breaking a sweat.

u/guisar · 2 pointsr/audiophile

I have a Fiio E7- works perfectly with Linux (pulseaudio under Fedora, Mint and Ubuntu) via USB (no drivers required) and has dual outputs and is portable. Sounds is great and works fine with all headphones as well. I paid $69 for it.

u/dark_mirage · 2 pointsr/funny

Micro USB Host OTG Cable with Micro USB Power

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CXAC1ZW/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_fNeaub0DNF2KH

FiiO E7 USB DAC and Portable Headphone Amplifier (Black)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003N0XDT4/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_FOeaub1EY7PQ2

u/purpleparrots225 · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

I'm using these

With this

And I've owned everything from TB x41s, to the this headset and even astro a40/50, but my current setup (which I got for $170) is by far the best I've owned.

u/shrtstck · 2 pointsr/Nexus6P

I'm a huge fan of Fiio for this

http://www.fiio.net/en

(EDIT: looks like their website sucks, but Amazon carries a ton of them http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-USB-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B003N0XDT4 for example...)

u/jiven · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Compare to the FiiO E11 alone on many popular sites for $59.99 - The extra battery and charger are almost free if you're looking to get a portable amp for your audiophile headphones. Honestly, these make a difference for the standard headphones too - they just benefit the audiophile builds further. http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E11-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0053KWDES

u/jackdriper · 2 pointsr/audiophile

The Sennheiser HD598 DrAquafresh linked is a great pair of headphones. Super clear, very comfortable, with that nice Sennheiser warm sound. Two problems though: they benefit from an amp, which is difficult for making them truly portable, and they're open, meaning they let a lot of sound in and out.

So, if you can afford a cheap portable amp like this FiiO, and aren't in loud areas, they're definitely the best option for you.

If you need noise isolation, I highly recommend IEMs. They will isolate sound much better than any "noise cancelling" headphones, while actually producing high quality sound. I have to say: avoid Bose if at all possible. There are much better options for the same price. See this buying guide to find a pair of IEMs for you.

If you don't like the idea of IEMs, most closed headphones will be pretty good at noise isolation. That buyers guide has a bunch of options.

u/Flannel_Condom · 2 pointsr/Metal

The answer to that question is kind of technical so I'll do my best. First off your phone and your laptop both have an internal DAC (Digital Analog Converter) and a basic amp so why do you need another one?..

Using hifi headphones require more "juice" (learn about impedance) than the phone and laptop can provide. There's also a considerable interference that comes from the internal workings of the phone/laptop that's not shielded. The interference effects the sound noticeably. If you're running a lot of processes on your device while listening to music you'll hear a hiss.

A DAC/Amp like the one I listed above gives the juice your hifi headphones want + shields the craziness happening inside the device from effecting your tunes. That one is designed for desktop use and I use it primarily at my desk at work with my laptop. You can also consider a portable DAC/Amp like the Fiio E11 if you plan on using your headphones with your phone and want portability. In hindsight, I would've bought one of these Fiio E12 models which offers the same sound quality as the desktop model but as a portable.

u/shabeepbadeep · 2 pointsr/audiophile

I have a pair brainwavz b2 and I think they sound great. I use a e11 amp with them, but they sound pretty good out of the box as well. Also the cable looks cool

u/beuh_dave · 2 pointsr/headphones

FiiO E11 Portable Headphone Amplifier ($64) and HRT Music Streamer II High Resolution USB D/A Converter ($149). Reviews here, here and here.

u/mmoser · 2 pointsr/nexus4

You're better off getting it from Amazon. I would never buy from eBay. Seems so unnecessarily sketchy.

http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E11-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0053KWDES/

u/lunchb0x91 · 2 pointsr/headphones

Anything under $40 probably won't be enough for the 250 ohm version, but this one isn't too far above your budget and should be powerful enough

u/TheDukeofWaffles · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Personally, I don't bother with high-quality music on the go, but Fiio makes some affordable headphone amps that are the same size as a phone like this.

Schiit is an American company that makes excellent headphone amps and DACs but will be primarily for desktop use due to size.

Just so you know, a headphone amplifier is only necessary for phones that have a high impedance (the sum of resistance in the headphone's circuitry). From my own experience, my Sennheiser HD598 with an impedance of around 50 ohms does not require a headphone amp (one does help a little bit but it's not night and day), while the higher level Sennheiser HD650 (300 ohm impedance) definitely requires an amp to sound "good".

I don't really know much about IEM or Closed Headphones (my HD598 is an open-end design) which is what you would probably want for listening on the go.

u/hawk1410 · 2 pointsr/headphones

Well the higher the impedance the harder to drive the headphones, thats the basics of it. In DT990s case the 600ohm is the best sounding one, but not by much. The DT990 250ohm premium is almost as good. The DT990 32ohms is also pretty good. You will only be able to tell the differences when listening to all three of them at the same time. But i think the one you were considering must have been the Pro 250ohm model, which is quite a bit different compared to its premium counterparts. It is more uncomfortable, has a smaller soundstage with muddier bass. It is also the cheapest at 200$. If I were you I'd go with the Premium 250ohm or 32ohm models. They both cost around 300$ new and run around 200$-250$ used(on Amazon via Amazon warehouse). If you get the 32ohm model you CAN skip getting an amp, as it wont be necessary, it will certainly improve the sound but wont be necessary. With the 250ohm premium an amp becomes a necessity. If you're going with a brand new 250Ohm premium then just get that along with a AMP+DAC like the E17 or if you want to go cheaper get the E11(it is the same amp as the E17 but without a DAC). You can skip getting a E9 as it wont give as much benefits and would unnecessarily push you overbudget. This should cost you about 440$ if you buy from Amazon(New DT990 Premium 250ohm + Fiio E17 or E11, with the E11 you'll be in budget but will loose on getting a DAC. Or you can get a used DT990 Premium 250 ohm(check out the 4th listing that lists it as like new, if Amazon says it is like new it means it will impossible to differentiate it from a brand new one) with a E17 to stay within budget

u/BananasApeUnicorn · 2 pointsr/headphones

The M50s are fairly easy to drive, but ~$40 is a bit of a low budget for an amp, you could find a portable fiio amp used (like the e11) for about $40. As a matter fact, it is selling for $40 here.

However, I'd honestly recommend saving up some extra cash and keeping an eye out for something like the Schiit Magni used on Amazon or Head-Fi. I've seen them go for around $70 used, it has much more power output than the FiiO and it will be able to handle higher end headphones if you decide to upgrade later.

u/carolus412 · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Depending on the features you want, you could go with a simple amp.

http://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404996566&sr=8-1&keywords=2.1+amplifier

You could obviously spend a LOT more, but that would get you started. Of course, this depends on the connections the speakers use. That amp uses normal speaker wire for both the speaker and the amp. That would let you plug in anything with a 3.5mm headphone jack using something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Male-2-Male-Adapter/dp/B004YEBK66/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404996848&sr=8-1&keywords=RCA+to+3.5

I personally would rather use the RCA inputs in the back, but you could use the 3.5mm aux jack in the from if you wanted.

Depending on your setup, you might also like using a mixer. I have a behringer Xynex802, this lets me mix my laptop, phone, and desktop microphone into my speakers, headphones, and laptop's input.

u/000Destruct0 · 2 pointsr/hometheater

Best you can do is something like this: http://smile.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO?ie=UTF8&keywords=lepai&qid=1465334470&ref_=sr_1_5&sr=8-5

It's a short term solution. At some point you are going to have to purchase a real receiver.

u/just_unmotivated · 2 pointsr/audio

I would not get that device. You don't need the led and its overpriced for what it is. I have a lapei 2020 that works great but it wouldn't work with the sub.


This version has a sub output and will be all that you need.

u/Armsc · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Here are some thoughts.

  • I would go passives but I'm a big fan of changing out my gear. The ones that you mentioned are all active speakers for the most part. While they may be good I don't have that much experience with them.

  • I would do what ctfrommn suggested or I if you want a 2.1 setup look at this

  • Here is a sample of a 2.1 that you could do. BIC DV32 $60 and a Dayton Sub 800 $100 running through a Lepy 2020 $30, Lepai 2024 $20 or a Lepai 168 $35.

  • Yep the amp choices above aren't great but if you're looking for something for your computer they should work just fine. I have used them for plenty of computer builds with not problem. The one good think about those little amps is they have tone controls. Yeah they don't work great but sometimes you can make things sound just a bit better using them.
u/lasttycoon · 2 pointsr/hometheater

Lepai LP-168HA 2.1 2 x 40-Watt Amplifier and 1x68W Sub Output https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6qmgzbWC487DC amp to power the speakers and easy to transport. https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-b652-air-6-1-2-2-way-bookshelf-speaker-with-amt-tweeter-pair--300-651?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla affordable speakers that punch above their price. Polk Audio PSW10 10-Inch Powered Subwoofer (Single, Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KVQBA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5rmgzbW2A60XF and an affordable subwoofer. Run speaker wire to connect speakers to amp. Not sure what your media source is though.

u/MartialLol · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I don't know if this is the cheapest or simplest option, but you could have chromecast audios at the receiver, TV, and PC ($35 x 3 = $105). This would allow you to turn on/off media for the three systems from any device with chromecast support, and you could set up a Plex server if you want to use your own library of content in addition to streaming sources.

Issues:

Can you give the model numbers for the TV, receiver, soundbar, and PC speakers? That would probably be easier than listing their inputs and features individually.

How do you connect the TV to the soundbar? If it doesn't accept multiple inputs, you'll have to go through the TV, which could be a problem.

For the PC speakers, you'll probably need a y-splitter to combine the PC and chromecast inputs so you don't have to switch between them.

The two-zone receiver is trickier, because I don't know how you could control A/B/A+B from your phone or PC. If that level of control is a deal-breaker, then it might be easier to get something like this for the second zone, which requires another chromecast as well ($105 + $35 + $25 = $165).

I've been thinking about doing something similar (3 amp+speaker systems in different rooms), and this is the simplest solution I've been able to find.

u/SuperMar1o · 2 pointsr/oculus

I heard the subpac was good too, as was the buttkicker. But the subpac is expensive and the buttkicker was sold out lol so I bought the budget tactile feedback rig (Recommended by another /r/oculus member.) which included these three things. It also took a few wires and some tweaking but after mounting it to a chair, I love it

u/Salty_Scrotum · 2 pointsr/civic

Rockford Fosgate P300-12 Punch 300 Watt Powered Loaded 12-Inch Subwoofer Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007AQ2W6W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_EubfAbY7QGTG2

u/MilkyWitness · 2 pointsr/CarAV

So I have a 15" Soundqubed 1200W RMS subwoofer being powered with a soundqubed 1200w amp. The sub and box are so heavy in my trunk, and I honestly don't really want to listen to it loud because it hurts my hearing.

I am wanting to go with a smaller and more light weight set up. I am torn between getting an under the seat Rockford Fosgate subwoofer, this one to be exact: https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-PS-8-Underseat-Subwoofer/dp/B00Y3WKUX8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522712591&sr=8-1&keywords=underseat+subwoofer+rockford+fosgate&dpID=51c8j4HS70L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

But then I am worried it might not be enough bass, and so I was thinking about getting a loaded enclosure and either 10" or 12", something like this https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P300-12-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B007AQ2W6W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1522712633&sr=8-2&keywords=rockford+fosgate+loaded+enclosure&dpID=51gr0hNb2TL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Right now I have 2 kicker tweeters up from, and a 6.5" kicker 2-way speaker 60W rms each in each door. They are powered by an amp and sound really good, I just need some bass to compliment them.

Any advice on the under the seat sub? Should I get a loaded 10 or 12 inch over it, and if so...the 10 or 12? Thanks.

u/lumberjack_dan · 2 pointsr/CarAV

This will be much better for your budget you just need a amp kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007AQ2W6W/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_0xPAub0K3B7YD

u/jhall589 · 2 pointsr/fpv

Oh sure I was honest in saying you will eventually spend a heck of a lot more. Yet my point is that too many people think it's too expensive.

Fpv shopping list for one on a budget:
(Do your own research next time)
Monitor
7" TFT LCD Color https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007SLDF7O/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_NxCXub0G1JF6N
$27 hook you TX and a 12th source and you have video.

Now for the good stuff...
700 TVL Surveillance Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GMAAJY/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_zACXub1JMVWMM
$30 strip the camera out and hook it up to a 3S battery. Your video. This is your basic over priced $60 Sony board camera.

Now for your TX/RX:
1.2G 8ch video transmitter and receiver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M7TBAZG/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_3FCXub0RC8NSF
$65

I'm at $120 here. All prime and definitely not the absolute cheapest solution.

If you don't have a soldering iron go to harbor freight and pick one up for $10. Get flux and solder for another $10.

Build your own antennas, I did. Lazy people spend $60 on a pair of antennas.

My point is this hobby can be a cheap or expensive as you make it. I'm tired of the misconceptions with "drones", the media portrays us as idiots. Yet many of us are genius.

Use your creativity and build something cheap or buy something expensive but make the hobby what you want to make it. If you lack the technical skill to build, there are plenty of alternatives just be willing to pay.

u/Abradolf--Lincler · 2 pointsr/arduino

I'm trying to be able to display a grayscale picture stored on my Arduino mega 2560. The monitor takes a composite video signal. How should I start? What library could I use if any exists? Do I need to use an SD card?
Thanks!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007SLDF7O/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1420054002&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=51340p0rfNL&ref=plSrch

u/psyco_llama · 2 pointsr/fpv

This is what I will be using. It can run on a 3S battery and is only $26 bucks. Has 2 inputs too. Cant go wrong: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007SLDF7O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/Chadman108 · 2 pointsr/goprodiy

I used This monitor mounted on a pvc frame. I used a lipo 5000mah 11.1v battery. I use the GoPro combo cable (because I already had it for external mic/power) and connect it to the RCA on the TV. You can get a mini USB to RCA adapter on ebay for a few bucks. Hope this helps!

EDIT: I thought you said Hero 3... sorry! I don't know what kind of connectors the camera has on it. I use hero 3 cameras with my setup.

u/FivePtFiveSix · 2 pointsr/djiphantom

it's possible, but the amount of extra equipment you'd need would outweigh and outprice the cheaper LCD option i mentioned earlier. You can get a 7" lcd on amazon prime for like <$25 like this http://amzn.com/B007SLDF7O and hook it up to the boscam reciever. Power everything with a 3s lipo.

u/krysus · 2 pointsr/Audi

Get a Viseeo Tune2Air... plug it straight into the AMI, job done.

http://www.amazon.com/Bovee-Wireless-Bluetooth-Interface-Integration/dp/B00B52LLJ6

u/sarcasm_ninja · 2 pointsr/E90

I have the Bovee adapter in our '09 e93.
Works great!

Bovee 1000 Adapter

u/ThePandaPanic · 2 pointsr/Audi

Have this car and the Bluetooth thing bummed me out. I found a little receiver thing you can plug in to the iPod cable in the glovebox that you can use to play music over Bluetooth. You should already have a phone only version of Bluetooth for you car. (Standard feature IIRC)

Bluetooth thingy.

u/chrisbru · 2 pointsr/Audi

I have a 2012 a4 with the old iPhone 30 pin connector in the glovebox. If you have the same connection, I got this Bovee 1000 Wireless Bluetooth Music Interface Adapter for in Car iPod Integration https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B52LLJ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JvTszbFEW1GT0


It is a little pricey, but works flawlessly and I can still use the MMI to control my music and see the song details and such.

u/Yey0 · 2 pointsr/BMW

http://www.amazon.com/ViseeO-WMA1000-Tune2air/dp/B00B52LLJ6

These work great, high quality, hence the premium. You use your y-cable with 30 pin connector. As long as it is an iPhone, you keep your steering wheel controls and audio descriptions on the control display.

I always recommend them to customers, everyone loves them. Avoid the other cheap ones available, they just don't work or sound horrible.

u/Mill3241 · 2 pointsr/Audi

Depending on how much work and money you want to put into this, you can get a Dension Gateway http://enfigcarstereo.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/DENSION_GW51MO2.html and this bluetooth adapter http://www.amazon.com/ViseeO-Tune2air-WMA1000-Bluetooth-Integration/dp/B00B52LLJ6

u/Samuelson310 · 2 pointsr/Audi

Picked this up for my B8 S4, works like a charm. My iPhone will connect to both the Audi MMI for phone calls AND this bluetooth plugin for music.

http://www.amazon.com/ViseeO-Tune2air-WMA1000-Bluetooth-Integration/dp/B00B52LLJ6

u/SVF1997 · 2 pointsr/Audi

ViseeO Tune2air WMA1000 -... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B52LLJ6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I got this for my 2011 A5, never had any problems with it.

u/clippers13 · 2 pointsr/Audi

Hey I just got the same car as you like 4 days ago! Yes it is a super annoying truth but no you can not play music through bluetooth. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B52LLJ6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Buy this and you will be able to. I got one and it should arrive tomorrow. I will tell you how it works if you want.

u/MattRain101 · 2 pointsr/Lyft

I run a Falcon Zero F360, but use their provided USB plugin. I don't notice the camera or plugin at all. Ran the wire through my roofliner, side column and inside the dash, until I got to the USB port (only 6-8 inches of cord showing at the bottom and top)

(comes with a 3 USB plug in, so you dont loose a port.)

https://www.amazon.com/Falcon-Zero-F360-HD-Mirror/dp/B00E56WY18

u/stephsationalxxx · 2 pointsr/RoadRage

Falcon Zero F360 HD DVR Dual Dash Cam, Rear View Mirror, 1080p, 32GB SD Card (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E56WY18/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_EUxFwbV9E5DMA

I love this one. It plugs into your cigarette lighter and because it goes over your rear view mirror, you won't get an obstruction of view ticket from a cop if ever pulled over. It's also super easy to use and has two cameras (front facing and rear facing or you can both front facing) it uses an SD card and overwrites itself when it runs out of space so unless you want to save something off of it you never have to deal with the memory.
Edit: it also records audio, but you can turn that off if you sing in your car like me

u/OSUTechie · 2 pointsr/Dashcam

OP said it what this one in the other thread.

u/DZeroX · 2 pointsr/Panama

Yo compré la mía en Amazon: Falcon Zero F360

Con esta, lo único que tienes que hacer es clippearla encima de tu retrovisor, y conectar la vaina al encendedor. Super fácil de instalar y de mantener.

u/katsimgnilleps · 2 pointsr/houston

Recorded using this model: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E56WY18

This was the very first time I used it. On the freeway for 5 seconds and bam!

u/BrianPurkiss · 2 pointsr/CCW

Black Box G1W-H Hidden Dashboard Dash Cam - WDR 160° Wide Angle 4X ZOOM - Full HD 1080P H.264 2.7" LCD Car DVR Video Recorder - Night Vision Motion Detection G-Sensor - NT96650 + AR0330 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HMNFWYW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DlZCxbKNA836X

Well that was quite the word vomit from the Amazon app.

Seriously though. I have it. Got it based on recommendations from other users here.

u/wireke · 2 pointsr/belgium

https://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-G1W-H-Hidden-Dash/dp/B00HMNFWYW Best dashcam under 100 euro. You can order it at Amazon.de

u/Shadowhawk109 · 2 pointsr/CFB

My buddy has this and recommends it.

Says that there's lots of counterfeits, and to check /r/dashcam for sellers.

Of course there's a subreddit for that.

u/bapsteks · 2 pointsr/CarTalkUK

A lot of people I know are using this one http://www.amazon.co.uk/Car-Audio-Novatek-Detection-Recorder-G-sensor-Technology/dp/B00HMNFWYW

It's £25 and is packed full of features :)

u/Ragoczy · 2 pointsr/uberdrivers

I second the dashcam -- a decent one is less than $50 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HMNFWYW/montalia). Get two SD cards and swap them after anything hinky or questionable happens so you don't lose the record. It'll also give you some protection if you're in an accident and not at fault. No he-said/she-said about the color the light was if you have video.

u/r3dt4rget · 2 pointsr/IdiotsInCars

r/dashcam

I use the B1W which is 40 bucks right now. It's a popular cheap option.

u/andy2na · 2 pointsr/Dashcam

Buy a model 3, Tesla just released an update which enables the side cameras for recording during driving and parking :) /s

But I was also thinking about how to achieve this the past couple months. I would probably get another 750S-2ch or 900S-2ch and put the larger main cameras on the front and rear and the 2nd, smaller cameras on the side. Its pricey, but it would work and look fairly decent. Other options would just be buying two cheaper, low-profile dashcams like a DDPai or a blueskysea. The only issue with that is that the parking modes arent as robust as Blackvues, nor does it have cloud viewing.

Edit: Someone posted a thread about this setup: https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threads/4-channel-dr900s-installed-with-b-124-batteries-4g-hotspot.36822/

u/basketcase77 · 2 pointsr/subaru

I bought one a couple months ago and I love it. I've actually recorded one accident at an intersection already (luckily not my own) and was able to offer the footage to those involved and the police if they needed it. After doing some research I heard a lot of good things about the G1W. There are knockoffs, but the one I got from "Black Box" on amazon appears to be legit. I got the "stealth" one as well for less glare from it. Here's the links to everything you need it you want to pick up a good one for a good price:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HMNFWYW

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CES44EO

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JWGC29U

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00L3XXRI0

If you've got prime (which you should because it's fuckin awesome. Seriously get it or find a friend with it and get on theirs) then this whole setup almost exactly a hundred bucks and you're all set to go.

PS, great car, how long have you had her? Sorry to see the damage.

u/sandmyth · 2 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

You know you want to video all the idiots on the road... it's cheap: http://www.amazon.com/Spy-Tec-STI_G1W-C-Capacitor-Edition/dp/B00JJ3SQRI

u/tomgabriele · 2 pointsr/videos

http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-dash-cam/

Last updated Sept 28, 2015. The Wirecutter "best of" articles seem to be very well researched and very thorough. They select the G1W as the best, with the reminder to be careful not to buy a fake.

u/fsv · 2 pointsr/LegalAdviceUK

I'd recommend looking at /r/dashcam for advice. I have this one but there are probably better, newer models available now.

u/redls1bird · 2 pointsr/AdviceAnimals

Good ones can be had for less. Its hard to beat the G1w-c.

u/lvsniper · 2 pointsr/Bad_Cop_No_Donut

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ3SQRI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Paid around $70, decent IMO wish it recorded speed and other GPS info

u/KavensWorld · 2 pointsr/mississauga

I 100% AGREE.

Ive used this cam the G1WH for 3 years.



It has recorded 60,000km of driving in temperatures ranging from +40 to -40. ZERO issues. I get 4 hours on a 32gig card. Its self records/deletes on 10min clips.



Here are examples of my G1WH in action

Dash Cams GTA



Kavens World - Dash Cams

u/freakers · 2 pointsr/saskatchewan

I've bought this for myself and family members. It's pretty basic as far as camera's go. Meaning it doesn't have gps functionality, wireless or bluetooth connectivity, or speed recognition. It's just a camera. It can display the date and time when you set it too and it records footage at a decent quality.

It records in good quality, has basic functionality and will automatically record over old footage unless you tell it not too so you don't need to worry about clearing the video. Just make sure you pull your clip before it overwrites, depending on the quality and framerate you might get like 20-40 hours of footage on a 32 gb sd card. You need to buy that separately. I'm not sure if you can change this but it will record clips and save them in 5 minute increments. It automatically starts and stops when you power on and power off your vehicle.

It's a capacitor based camera, not a battery. A battery camera will tend to last ~5 minutes or so after it loses power, which means that if you're in an accident where it loses power it will continue to record. A capacitor will last much shorter after it loses power. Capacitors tend to do better/safer in extreme weather. If you have a garage and park indoors at work or you're vehicle is always sheltered a battery might be better. Extreme heat and cold will both affect the battery.

It also records sound, you can turn that on or off if you don't want recordings to have you singing in the background.

Take a gander at various youtube reviews. The people who review this shit do it for a living and can really point out the high and low points of cameras and guide you to what's suitable for your situation.

u/collinch · 2 pointsr/Roadcam
u/mutatron · 2 pointsr/subaru

I got a GW1H a couple of years ago, and like it. There have been a lot of new entrants over the past couple of years though.

u/petater · 2 pointsr/SymmetraMains

Turn off ambient occlusion, shadows off, dynamic reflections to off, those are the biggest trouble makers (Even on recent cards). On Intel integrated models/lighting/textures also have to be low.

I've noticed the game when set to auto, even if it lowers below 50%, can be worse than locking it to 50% render scale manually (It can bounce above 50% when it shouldn't). re: tested it on an intel igpu, but I use an amd rx 480 instead.

Edit: The game doesn't allow lower than 50% render scale when done manually, so you'll have to set a lower non-native resolution than what your display actually is, while keeping render scale at 50%.

That said, I have gotten it to run 60 fps solid at the lowest possible settings at 1080p (50% render scale, lowest gfx settings) on intel integrated on a Skylake 6700k (desktop enthusiast cpu with integrated gpu). Like I said though, I use an AMD rx 480 instead though, because why splurge on a cpu and not gpu?

The game isn't CPU bound, so you probably could hook up a real GPU card via a thunderbolt to PCIe adapter to get the full desktop experience on the macbook pro under bootcamp.

example: https://www.amazon.com/Akitio-AMZ-T2PC-TIA-AKTU-Thunder2-PCIe/dp/B00LTAUTHE

u/xartic1 · 2 pointsr/gadgets

Various types of connections to get it going but they have been out there. For quite some time.

Solution 1

Solution 2

Solution 3

u/sonnytron · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

For those of you interested:
This Akitio Thunder2 is mostly all you need to connect a discrete graphics card to your Thunderbolt 2/3 port.
A user named nando4, found here on TechInferno's DIY eGPU section has done a lot of work to make DIY eGPU's a reality.
All else you need is a PSU with a jumper, if your card uses more than PCI-Express's 75W and an enclosure if you use a particularly large card.
Beyond that, most guides recommend using an Nvidia GPU because their use of Optimus allows you to use your internal notebook display, not requiring an external display to use your graphics card.
However, there's also a performance hit of around 7-10% if you use an internal LCD.
AMD cards are supported if you're doing an external display.
With Windows 8.1, the device and setup is mostly plug and play, but there are workarounds if necessary.
The total cost for an enclosure plus Akitio plus a PSU, if you utilize the group buy on TechInferno is easily under $300.
This is a very affordable option to someone who uses a MacBook for software work, wants to game, but doesn't want to invest into a full desktop.
This is also amazing for the same person who wants something to carry to a LAN event, but doesn't want to carry around a large PC.
This is also great for someone who travels a lot, who has a notebook with TB ports, who wants to game while traveling for work.
This is also great for someone who does complex rendering, animation or editing or video work and doesn't want to carry around a Mac Pro.
Overall, this is just great.

u/sliderrrrrr · 2 pointsr/oculus

For 200 Bucks you are almost half way to a decent VR pc minus the GPU.

http://www.amazon.com/Akitio-AMZ-T2PC-TIA-AKTU-Thunder2-PCIe/dp/B00LTAUTHE

u/System0verlord · 2 pointsr/battlestations

Here's my parts list

Akitio Thunder 2

NIVIDIA GTX 970 Mini-ITX

Corsair CM450

Cooler Master Elite 130 w/o PSU

PCIe to Molex adapter

90 degree PCIe riser

Here is a post on TechInferno about eGPUs. These guys are super helpful and have loads of tutorials. Still not a project for the faint of heart!

u/PipeItToDevNull · 2 pointsr/techsupport

You would need a PCIe dock, they run about $200 like this, and a m.2 to PCIe size adapter, another $15 like this, and then you need a machine that has a thunderbolt port to use that dock.

Edited

u/Brie_M · 2 pointsr/macgaming

I would buy this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LTAUTHE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1465830352&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=akitio+egpu

Also scroll down when you open the link and find the "frequently bought together" and buy all 3 it should cost $264. It's the Akitio EGPU. Also the actual graphics card you will want to get the gtx 1080/1070, or 980 Ti.

The total should be under $1000

u/boom10ful · 2 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

I can answer the dashcam wiring for you. Best way that I have found is to use a fuse tap like this.

http://www.amazon.com/Qiorange--circuit-Adapter-Blade-Holder/dp/B015GYN38A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1464329991&sr=8-2&keywords=fuse+tap

You will also need the appropriate fuse for that particular dashcam. And you will need a 12V to 5V converter for the dashcam. Like this.

http://www.amazon.com/Dash-Camera-Vehicle-Hard-Wire/dp/B00MH4ZVHO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464330070&sr=8-1&keywords=dash+cam+wire

PS: Best part about this one is that you can install an inline fuse, which is much easier to find an appropriate rated fuse than it is with the automotive fuses.

u/nagokart · 2 pointsr/GolfGTI

Very easy. The hardest part was putting the damned A-pillar back in. You will need the add-a-fuse and a hardwire kit like this. The red wire will connect to the add-a-fuse wire and the black wire goes to ground (there's a bolt just above the fuse box that you could use as the ground). The add-a-fuse is pretty much making a single fuse slot be able to have two fuses on there; one for the original fuse and one for the dash cam fuse. And then the mini usb end obviously goes to the dash cam.

The A-pillar comes off pretty easily. Take caution though as there are air bags in there. You'll need to pry out the airbag logo clip thing and undo the T-20 screw behind it. Next, you just pull the pillar towards you and it should pop off. I zip tied the wires to some existing wires behind the a-pillar and away from the air bags. Then I just stuffed the wires under the front of the headliner and to the rear view mirror area.

u/downhillcarver · 2 pointsr/MyLittleMotorhead

No problem! I feel like there was another con or something else I wanted to say about it, but I can't remember....

Biggest complaint is that cigarette lighter power plug. It's huge, it's ugly, and if you bump it slightly it stops making contact and your camera turns off.

Im gonna install another fuses circuit into my fuse box and run this to it. I just haven't gotten around to it because I've never installed a new fuse circuit before and it sounds like kinda a scary task, haha.

u/joevsyou · 2 pointsr/personalfinance

finally pulled the trigger, it been a long time since i wanted one. The only thing that kept me from doing it was that i wanted it hardwire not freaking wires going to my cig lighter port. Well after spending 5 minutes on youtube it's not really hard at all... So i went out to my car to see what would to be done and doubt it will take me no more than 10 minutes to set up.

Just in case anyone want to know what i ordered for their selves

SpyTec A119 + GPS Logger 1440p Car Dash Camera

Spy Tec Dash Camera Vehicle Hard Wire Kit

fuse tap

Lexar High-Performance microSDHC 633x 32GB

u/RubberReptile · 2 pointsr/Dashcam

There's no difference between the two cams in your cart.


Why not grab this hard wire kit? It's a bit cheaper. These things are pretty generic and should work for any camera.

u/RockPaperShredder · 2 pointsr/Dashcam

Just searched through my old orders and coincidentally - or not - that is the exact one I purchased that wouldn't work in the cold (but in the UK);

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00MH4ZVHO

So a good chance its the cause of your problem imho. I replaced it with a Nextbase kit which has performed faultlessly since (but I can't see them on Amazon.com);

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00XHYSQAC

u/kramer-tron · 2 pointsr/Dashcam
u/brianm71 · 2 pointsr/Dashcam

Bought this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MH4ZVHO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and tapped into the wiring for the overhead "room lights" using Scotchloks. As far as "good" goes, I just had to replace this as the last one for my A118 only last two years.

u/-Cheule- · 2 pointsr/Dashcam

OP, my assumption is that you are looking for a very long cable in order to hardwire the camera? If that's the case you are probably wanting something like this: Spytec hardware kit

The kit is very long, definitely long enough to make it from a fuse box to anywhere in the front of your car. I recently wired two of those into my car, one for my rear cam as well, and I did have to splice in about 6' of wire to make it long enough. It was super easy to do though.

An easy way to attach it to your fuse box it with these: add a fuse 5 pack they plug into a existing fuse hole, and you put the fuse into the tap. It gives you the red wire feed you need for the hardware kit. The black wire for the kit goes to ground (and has a metal semicircle for bolting to an existing frame bolt, not pictured in the Amazon picture)

As far as memory car durability, try to get a MLC type memory made for dashcams (stay away from SanDisk Ultra). Here is a good article about it

u/McDouble57 · 2 pointsr/subaru

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MH4ZVHO/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A8IQBBGLCSUJ7

Do you use the above power cord for constant power? I actually have this model in my amazon cart.

u/orzof · 2 pointsr/headphones

At $200 you don't have a lot of options for Spotify capable DAPs as you surmised. An AMP/DAC would probably be the way to go if you're looking to put a little more juice into your current IEMs. FiiO is definitely well regarded in the price range you are looking at. I think the next best portable amp I see recommended regularly is the Oppo ha-2 at around $300 new. Like I said, I had buzzing with the my E18, but /u/AV3Nguyen didn't. I've seen others [claim to have this issue](https://www.reddit.com/r/headphones/comments/5386ko/fiio_e18k_gsm_interference/ too, suggesting that it has to do with GSM networks, so it might not matter to you either way. Otherwise the E17K is a perfectly fine option. You'd even have the option to upgrade to the docking unit if you wanted. Your mileage may vary with all of this, of course, since a lot of IEMs aren't very power hungry. You might not notice much more than a bump in your potential volume, but it will future proof you should you want to pick up something that needs a bit more oomph.

The third option would be to put the money towards a slightly better phone with the features you want, unless there's a reason you'd prefer to have your music on a separate unit. The LG v10 and v20(not yet out) have good DAC/Amps, so those might be options if your carrier allows, though I don't know how much you were going to spend on the phone.

u/49e8d9cd29 · 2 pointsr/ZReviews

I've got the FiiO E17K which can currently be found at $100 @ amazon.

It's great for my needs. I mostly use it with the desktop at work and with my Asus Transformer everywhere else. With the Transformer I usually deactivate the charging function so the DAC won't drain the laptop battery. As for headphones, I have the ATH-MSR7.

I don't really like using it with my phone as I find it quite uncomfortable to carry around both the phone and the DAC/AMP. And this is regardless of the size of it, it's just having two things with me... Meh, don't like. And the phone output from my Nexus 5 is more than decent (that's also because my headphones are very easy to drive, only 35ohm).

What I really like about this DAC/AMP is that it has a small equalization thingie (not like most of the devices which usually just have a bass boost switch). It provides +/- 10db of bass and treble in steps of 2db. For some reason, tweaking the EQ from the DAC instead of the PC player sounds better (maybe I'm just bad at EQ-ing). It also has two gain steps +6db and +12db. The overall build quality is great in my opinion. Only the volume scroll feels strange sometimes but I don't really use it much anyway.

Now, you didn't say much about your needs so I don't know if this fits your headphones requirements but it's an option. I also don't say you should buy this. Read around, see what's available and if you have the chance go somewhere and test some devices. You might like something else about a portable DAC/AMP.

u/PM_Me_Randomly · 2 pointsr/gadgets

That's why I use one of these to listen to music at work.

u/www-ListenUp-com · 2 pointsr/audiophile

> good alternatives to these headphones with good bang for my buck

I got a chance to demo those Sonys. Can't say enough good things about them.

Also worth looking into Audio-Technica AT-M70X ($223). AT's new flagship monitor headphone with an amazing sound. Definitely gives the Sonys a run for their money, especially with such a competitive price. I might even like them better.

I'm also quite fond of NAD Viso HP50 ($249). Just an incredible closed-back can.

>amp designed for headphone listening, that I can plug into my Macbook pro and that is hopefully less than $100.

Nothing really worth looking at under $100. Maybe Creative E3 ($99) or Topping TP30 ($99).

However, if you save money on headphones by going with the AT-M70X or the Sennheiser Momentum 2.0 (which are on sale for like $149), you could put the money you saved towards a better amp/DAC.

So if we assume a budget of, say, $200 for an amp/DAC, you can step up to something like Creative E5 ($189), Fiio E17 ($139) (it's even portable!), or Topping TP32EX ($159). Fiio probably makes the best offering in this range.

u/ImaginaryCheetah · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

good morning. i'm no expert, but would it be a problem driving 250ohm headphones with a 600ohm amp?

also, i would suggest considering a more portable headphone amp. if you're going to spend on some nice headphones, there's no reason to limit their use to at home because you've only got a clunky headphone amp that is designed to sit on a desk.

​

Fiio is well known in the headphone amp market, and they definitely have more pocketable products.

https://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E17K-ALPEN-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00RPD7KP8/

​

don't know if the amp you're looking at has particular features you want.

u/nordnyS · 2 pointsr/HardwareSwapUK

Not a PCIe sound card, but I have a FiiO E17K DAC/AMP for sale at £75.

There's some more info in the thread I made a few days ago.

Never dropped below £94.99 new on Amazon.

u/sykilik101 · 2 pointsr/uberdrivers

I take it this is the one you bought?

u/FekketCantenel · 2 pointsr/uberdrivers

I have a Transcend Drive Pro 520 and like it quite a bit.

u/Narutofloss · 1 pointr/videos

I have this one. Apparently it's the same ones that the russians use in all their cars. It got good reviews. It's the upgraded version of this reviewed one and it's matt-black so it's easily hidden. Great deal for $70.

u/ShawnS4363 · 1 pointr/subaru

The G1WH is pretty popular also.

u/MayoFetish · 1 pointr/videos

This one has lasted me 2 years. Get a 32gb memory stick and you should get 5+hours of 1080p video.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HMNFWYW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/DamienJaxx · 1 pointr/Columbus

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HMNFWYW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It was cheaper, but it's gone up in price. Night time quality is great, looks just like what you'd see out the window pretty much.

u/Mu4dD1b · 1 pointr/videos

I went with this [one] (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HMNFWYW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1), it has served me well for two years. It comes recommended on dashcamtalk.com.

u/danielsamuels · 1 pointr/WTF

I use one of these and it works perfectly. Example videos can be found on my dashcam YouTube channel (not the cycling ones though!).

u/ConstantRevolution · 1 pointr/gifs

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HMNFWYW/

This is the one I have- it's $60- but well worth it.

u/Ramu92 · 1 pointr/india

I use this dashcam.
https://www.amazon.com/Spy-Tec-STI_G1W-C-Capacitor-Dashcam/dp/B00JJ3SQRI

It is working perfectly fine. I don't backup the footage everyday, will do it only when any incident happens.

u/markevens · 1 pointr/gadgets

A decent dashcam is much cheaper than you might think.

The G1W-C dashcam is awesome.

u/noncil · 1 pointr/mazda3

I use G1W-c (capacitor), it is generic and was on sale when I bought it for $50ish. https://www.amazon.ca/Spy-Tec-G1W-C-Camera-Capacitor/dp/B00JJ3SQRI you can play around with the firmware too. Takes decent video and most important thing for me is the capacitor, so I will never need to replace the battery in it and won't run out from depleted battery.

u/Thenethiel · 1 pointr/guns

I got this'n, I got the capacitor-based one because it's supposed to hold up to high temperatures better, because Texas. So far it's worked pretty well, sometimes the loop recording doesn't work and it just stops recording when the memory card fills up. Just have to wipe it manually and then it's fine again. I use a 32gb card so it takes a while to fill up.

u/homegrowncountryboy · 1 pointr/LifeProTips

Look into a dashcam, i just bought this one and it works perfect for the price, here is a video that somebody recorded using it and i got my cellphone if they ask me to get out.

u/bogseywogsey · 1 pointr/Atlanta

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JJ3SQRI/ref=aw_wl_ov_dp_1_2?colid=1K48IXV3NSZLN&coliid=I1LZLLWDC00MIA is the one I always see recommended this is the C model that uses a capacitor instead of battery to deal with direct heat. Drop the C to find the normal model. Its about $70. I'm saving to buy one

u/Heckflosse · 1 pointr/videos

not the exact one but, along the same lines.

u/eliterofler · 1 pointr/vancouver

G1WH in my Honda, A119c in my dads Jeep.

u/OldRelic · 1 pointr/SeattleWA

Mine isn't made anymore but here is it's updated replacement:

www.amazon.com/Spy-Tec-Recorder-Dashboard-Authentic/dp/B00KZ0J452

It says 64GB microSD like mine did, but I never could find a 64GB SD that worked with mine. Maybe they fixed it in the update.

Chipset: Novatek NT96650 Chipset + Aptina AR0330 Lens
Lens Angle: 140° wide angle lens
Decode Format: H.264
Video Resolution: 1080P HD (1920 x 1080) 30fps, 720P (1280 x 720) 30fps,
720P 60fps/WVGA (848 x 480) 30fps, VGA (640 x 480) 30fps

u/Sethsual · 1 pointr/wichita

Spy Tec G1WH. Capable of wide angle, and 1080p/30fps recording. The way it works is that it records in 5 minute blocks - once it runs out of room in the memory card, it overwrites the oldest block. The caveat is that it doesn't play well with Class 10 micro sd cards, so I use a 32GB Class 6. I believe I have an 8-10 hour window of current 1080p footage, which should be more than sufficient.

I also purchased a dashcam hard-wire kit, in conjunction with an add-a-fuse kit. It might sound daunting to a layman, but it was actually incredibly simple to wire up. With it, the dashcam turns on when I turn the car on (I wired it in to the car stereo), and turns off when I turn the car off. This was necessary for me because one alternative, using a power adapter plugged into the cigarette lighter, wouldn't work due to my cigarette lighter always being powered, even when the truck is turned off. Also, my install is clean as hell - the only things visible are the cam itself, and about four inches of power wire running up to the headliner.

Here are the specific items I purchased, on Amazon:

Dashcam, $53 Prime
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KZ0J452

Hardwire kit, $15 shipped
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S73FE8A

Add-A-Fuse, $11 Prime
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GKEXK2

Rearview mirror mount, $9 Prime
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JWGC29U

Class 6 32GB MicroSDHC + adapter if you don't already have one, $16 Prime
www.amazon.com/dp/B00IVPU7DQ

Running total for everything above, to your door, about $105. Install takes about ten-fifteen minutes by yourself. You can probably get a local shop to do it if you prefer, for a cost. Hell, I'd even lend a hand if you wanted, so long as you promise you aren't a total fucking weirdo.

Edit to answer your second question: Yeah, I like it. For $100, it's probably the best quality you'll find. With it installed, I often forget it's even there; it's tucked away behind my mirror. The peace of mind that it adds, should I ever need it myself, is great. Also, catching stuff like what's in the video is a huge bonus!

u/ribar2017 · 1 pointr/vancouver

I bought spytec, cost around $60, records HD, works well.
https://www.amazon.ca/Spy-Tec-Recorder-Dashboard-Authentic/dp/B00KZ0J452

u/l2g2h · 1 pointr/blackfriday

Thank you thank you thank you! Feel silly not knowing what it was called (ends up in a lot of wasted google searches)

I just ordered it on amazon with commonly bought together 32gb memory card thing. Less than $100, thank you!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KZ0J452/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A867P1BBKCZM8

u/EquivalentAtmosphere · 1 pointr/eGPU

Oh, okay.


I saw this https://www.amazon.com/Akitio-Thunder2-PCIe-Box-intended/dp/B00LTAUTHE/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=Akitio+thunder2&qid=1563918555&s=gateway&sr=8-2 and all over youtube, it says you can use it. It shows in the title "Not intended for the use of graphics card) so what exactly does that mean?


And also when I asked Apple Support they said that the T3 to T2 is like if you have a T3 (on your mac) and you have something that's T2, you can do T3 -> T2. They said that if a device is T3 and you have T2, it won't work that way (afaik).

u/blankdeck31 · 1 pointr/eGPU

Hi Escape_Pilssken!

Recently I have been looking into building a eGPU for my dell m3800 precision laptop. I Reddit searched the Akitio Thunderbolt 2 external PCIe port and your build post came up. I use my laptop for CAD and can run games at medium settings (GTAV, 720p, 45FPS) however I have trouble running any game more intense than GTA. My computer has a thunderbolt 2, so thats a start and i have been looking into other parts. Now I see you use it for mac but have read it does work with windows. As of now this is my shopping list..... Akitio,

http://www.amazon.com/Akitio-AMZ-T2PC-TIA-AKTU-Thunder2-PCIe/dp/B00LTAUTHE/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458307550&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=akiitio

Power supply,

http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Continuous-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0500-KR/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=1GNV44JSQF1C20V1ACSH

PCIe risser,

http://www.amazon.com/PCIE-Powered-Flexible-Extender-Bitcoin/dp/B00GUKRX6S/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1GNV44JSQF1C20V1ACSH

and most importantly, GTX 960

http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-Overclocked-GDDR5-Graphics-GV-N960IXOC-4GD/dp/B0167OW8M0/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1458308437&sr=1-1&keywords=gigabyte+itx+960

Is this all I need? am I overlooking anything? I assume the akitio comes with a thunderbolt 2 to thunderbolt 2. I am not the most tech savy when it comes to hardware so i just want to make sure im not missing anything. Also from what you can see will this card fit or will i have to leave it outside the box?

Thats all I can think of now, so thanks for our help!

Blankdeck31

u/Dokibatt · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

What do you actually want to play? I have a retarded laptop with SLI 980Ms and the power is still somewhat lacking.

You may be better off with something like this, depending on what your playstyle is.

u/downstairsneighbor · 1 pointr/gadgets

I remember looking at those awhile ago - looks like there are even cheaper ones now.

u/nematodesgonewild · 1 pointr/DivinityOriginalSin

check out this forum

the market for egpu is finally reacting to the demand for cost effective egpus. after some research i am considering the Akitio Thunder2 PCIe Box priced at $211. ill need to read more but it is possible to upgrade the riser to support full length cards, the psu, and a case for around $90.

So for around $300 you have a system that will support graphics cards for years to come. I think people want a system around the $200 range but I have an apple cinema display monitor and would rather buy a windows copy for bootcamp rather than a shitty dvi to tb converter(~$100) if I built a pc.

u/nodogo · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

otherwise called an eGPU.

If you have the correct ports on your lappy it is a stand alone box with power supply that you put a regular GPU in then connect to your pc for an upgrade.

there are many models, I just grabbed a random link for sample:

https://www.amazon.com/Akitio-AK-T2PC-TIA-AKTU-Thunder2-PCIe-Box/dp/B00LTAUTHE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1432996428&sr=8-1&keywords=akitio+box


Personally as someone who is going to be facing this same problem within the next 12months/year I am moving back to a gaming pc and cheapo lappy's. I don't regret the choice of a gaming laptop at the time I got it as it really did fit the situation, but i also went into it fully expecting it's life span to be shorter then the average comparable desktop.


I think the better option is a desktop since this problem can be avoided easier for less cost when it is time for an upgrade. think of it this way, _ ok you solved your immediate problem but it could cost north of $500 to do it if you want a powerful card, THEN a little more time goes by and something else needs an upgrade, be it ram or CPU or even windows, NOW your stuck, as nothing else but the OS can be replaced really. so now you not only have an old laptop you have an egpu and case sitting around doing nothing or you end up taking the card out to put in a better desktop.

I see very limited reasons where an Egpu is a better choice.

u/mattheww · 1 pointr/homelab

You can drop a 10gbe PCIe card into a Thunderbolt enclosure. Still quite expensive, but could do i.e.:

https://www.amazon.com/Akitio-Thunder2-PCIe-Box-intended/dp/B00LTAUTHE

+

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Solarflare-SFN5122F-Dual-Port-10GbE-PCI-E-Server-Card-/201262999161

There are also Smalltree cards that use the Intel X540 chip, and the hackintosh community has made their drivers work with cheap vanilla Intel X540 cards.

u/Onebadmuthajama · 1 pointr/Amd

https://www.amazon.com/Akitio-AMZ-T2PC-TIA-AKTU-Thunder2-PCIe/dp/B00LTAUTHE/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1481327927&sr=1-2&keywords=gaming+dock

Let me pop this here then, go down to the reviews and you can see that verified purchasers have said that it works fine with gtx 980ti, which means it will work fine with any of the new pascal lineup. Also, to add to that, it uses thunderbolt, and is compatible with ANY device that uses thunderbolt. Still just barely over $200, clocking in at $219. I actually have some personal experience with this enclosure, and its completely fantastic as far as performance goes, and its very easy to install, and it also has additional fans to air out the card even better than it would be cooled in a small-mid sized case. Also, it says its a 35w power limit, but its compatible with power supplies, and so it can be easily setup to handle more power.

u/CallMeDucky · 1 pointr/Amd
u/_Ganon · 1 pointr/softwaregore

You can probably find more information online, but...

Parts used:

  • GTX 980
  • Akitio Thunder2
  • PCIe Riser Cable
  • Dell Power Adapter
  • Modded power cable
  • Thunderbolt Cable (ships with Akitio)
  • Thunderbolt2 capable laptop (no reason to use this with desktop)

    Once everything's put together, connects to your laptop via Thunderbolt cable. If you've built a desktop computer before, you'll easily be able to figure out how to put this together. If you haven't, I don't recommend attempting this.
u/senorroboto · 1 pointr/buildapc

Ok, so from the HD 5000 you'd get about a 50% bump in performance. Ok but I think you could do better. The GT 740 is a low-end graphics card, which often means you're getting less value than a midrange card, which are a little bit more money but a lot faster.

Is your goal "as cheap as possible" or do you have a budget?

It seems based on your parts list that you were willing to spend at least $65 on a GT 740, $50 for the cheapest Corsair 450W PSU depending on which model you meant, $170 on the thunderbolt adapter, and $70 on the other part. Minimum Total: $355. So I'll go with that.

Get that Thunderbolt->PCIe adapter for $217.

Get a powered PCIe riser, that's $7

Get a power supply, this EVGA 500W is $40 without rebate.

That's $264, leaving $91 for a card. Let's say you can spend $90-100. My top pick would be the R7 265 for $100, but I'd go with either the R7 360 or GTX 750Ti. These cards are more like 300-400% faster for only a little more money.

EDIT: Here is a guide from someone else doing it, they recommend EVGA brand Nvidia cards, which would be a little more money. Here are some good ones. With either of these you could get away with this $27 power supply instead: http://pcpartpicker.com/part/evga-power-supply-100n10400l1

http://pcpartpicker.com/part/evga-video-card-02gp43753kr

http://pcpartpicker.com/part/evga-video-card-02gp42957kr

u/mkcph84 · 1 pointr/SuggestALaptop

So any laptop with a thunderbolt 3 port will work with a dock? Do you know some good docks that are on the market today, which isn't DIY or some hacky / cheap stuff?

I can't seem to find much, except this one: https://www.amazon.com/Akitio-AMZ-T2PC-TIA-AKTU-Thunder2-PCIe/dp/B00LTAUTHE/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 which is a brand I've never heard of, has reports of cards not fitting and stopping working after a week.

u/bombastica · 1 pointr/Amd

Sounds like the Bizon is a modified version of this:
https://www.amazon.com/Akitio-AMZ-T2PC-TIA-AKTU-Thunder2-PCIe/dp/B00LTAUTHE
Which you can add your own power supply to and use whatever card you want.

I have a 5K iMac, i7 4GHz and I'm looking at these right now.

u/xXMutterkuchenXx · 1 pointr/applehelp

\^this! Go and get you a Macbook 15" or an iMac 21.5" or 27". They aren't so expensive anymore. I got an iMac 2011 21.5" for only 200 CHF (200€).

The CPU`s were way better than this one in your MacBook Pro 2010.

But only buy one with an i7 Quad Core, they have enough Power.

For the GPU you can buy somethings better for your iMac/MacbookPro or Mac mini. You can buy a Thunderbolt 1/2 GPU Adapter, they weren`d so expensive anymore. Take a look here click me . They work with Thunderbolt 1, too.

I would chose the iMac.

u/crazydave33 · 1 pointr/razer

How about this? The top review says it can work with a eGPU

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/cr/B00LTAUTHE/ref=mw_dp_cr

u/video_descriptionbot · 1 pointr/eGPU

SECTION | CONTENT
:--|:--
Title | SUPERCHARGE your New MacBook Pro !!!
Description | External GPUs to upgrade your 2016 MacBook Pro. Do they work for Gaming? Adobe Premiere? TB2 Enclosure - http://amzn.to/2ihik8F (modified) TB3 Enclosure - http://amzn.to/2izdRvK Laptop skins from https://www.dbrand.com INSTRUCTIONAL GUIDE MacOS MBP 13/MBP 15 using TB3 1 - Connect TB3 eGPU to MacBook Pro 2 - Run TB3 enabler script - https://github.com/KhaosT/tb3-enabler 3 - Install automated GPU driver kit - https://github.com/goalque/automate-eGPU 4 - Download Mac Nvidia CUDA drivers if nee...
Length | 0:05:32






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u/McDuble · 1 pointr/Dashcam

since it doesn't have a parking mode you don't need anything very fancy. I have used this for several family members cars and its worked fine:

https://www.amazon.com/Spy-Tec-Dash-Camera-Vehicle/dp/B00MH4ZVHO

spytec seems like a decent company too, haven't heard anyone complain about them.

just make sure you get the right one, i almost linked you to the one with the fuse adapter but thats micro-usb not mini usb. it is recommended you get an add-a-fuse to assure it is fuse protected.

u/ohhowexciting · 1 pointr/boston

After finding out which fuse is an accessory 12v one, that's really all you need. One of these will allow you to draw power without having to do anything messy or splice wires. The + (red) wire for one of these gets connected to the add-a-fuse and the - (black) gets grounded to something metal on the vehicle. You can tuck the wire behind the a-pillar cover and up through the headliner, then drape it behind the rearview camera out of sight.

u/Travels4Work · 1 pointr/Roadcam

In addition to /r/dashcam you can check out dashcamtalk.com. It sounds like you want an out-of-the-way install, like an A118C next to or behind your rear view mirror. Add to that a hardwire kit with low voltage cut-off to prevent draining the battery if you park for a few days. The power cable will tuck behind the headliner and pillar and go to the fuse box. You'd need to know how to install that or have someone do it for you.

u/BagObutts · 1 pointr/Dashcam

Step 1: Buy a hardwire kit for a dashcam. Here's one I found via a simple amazon search, but you can choose anything that works.

Step 2: Watch this video, or just search dashcam hardwire install on youtube.

Step 3: Carry out the the task at hand.

u/CaptureYourAction · 1 pointr/Dashcam

Hardwire kits are readily available and are pretty cheap. You just need to figure out what type of fuses your F150 uses and get a Tap-A-Fuse kit with the same style fuse. The link below is a typical generic hardwire kit.
https://amazon.com/Dash-Camera-Vehicle-Hard-Wire/dp/B00MH4ZVHO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474136883&sr=8-1&keywords=hard+wire+kit

u/mblakele · 1 pointr/teslamotors

The blackvue is popular and sounds nice, but I didn't feel the need for the wifi or cloud features. So I went with a pair of Rexing V1 cameras, front and rear. For power I made a y-cable and attached it to the extra 12V connector in the headliner compartment. Then I ran power cables through the headliner. The front cable is pretty much out of view. The cable for the rear camera runs exposed for several inches from the rear pillar to the back window — not ideal, but it doesn't bother me.

A year later, I'm happy with the Rexing. Video quality seems fine. I haven't had to use it for anything serious yet, but it helped me identify an object that whacked into me on the freeway.

Here are some of the parts I used. If you do your own installation, pick up some micro2 fuses. It's easy to blow one while working on the power supply. You'll also need a multimeter so you can identify the correct wires for 12V power.

https://www.amazon.com/V1-Dashboard-Recorder-G-Sensor-Recording/dp/B00X528FNE

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MH4ZVHO

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058DN7B8

u/cui_gives_a_shit · 1 pointr/Dashcam

Right, I understand all that. But do I need to get a fuse for the second slot (the dash cam slot) in the fuse tap since the hardwire kit that connects to the fuse tap already comes with an inline fuse?

The hardwire kit already has a fuse on the positive cable.

u/Weiner_McDingle · 1 pointr/CCW

https://www.amazon.com/Spy-Tec-Dash-Camera-Vehicle/dp/B00MH4ZVHO

12v-5v converter with in line fuse. I wired mine up to my powered mirror up in the headliner.

u/x_____________ · 1 pointr/cars

You can get a dash cam hardwire kit on Amazon for around $10 that have a 12v to 5v converter built in here's one. They're not very hard to install

u/nairdaleo · 1 pointr/Dashcam

This one.

I was able to return it too. I don't wanna say they suck because it's "frequently bought together" with the A119. Maybe the unit I received was just defective

u/mkadam68 · 1 pointr/Dashcam

Presumably so, yes. I'm getting this hard wiring kit... http://amzn.to/2956YhD, which is similar (exact?) to the one u/beth6han recommended.

u/fishbulbx · 1 pointr/personalfinance

Ha... I also wired it up with Spy Tec Mini USB Dash Cam 10 Foot Hardwire Kit for A119 A119S G1W G1WS, so no annoying cigarette lighter plugs.

u/mouse1010 · 1 pointr/Miata

I went with the A119 instead of the mobius because I liked how it mounted and it will do 1080p at 60 frames. I also purchased a wiring kit so i could tuck everything up behind the rear view mirror.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HN0HBFG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MH4ZVHO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/Blais_Of_Glory · 1 pointr/buildapc
  1. What is your budget?

  2. 4K is still being worked on and improved. What you're describing is almost impossible and super expensive.

  3. Don't do SLI. People have a lot of problems and they don't always work with all games anyway. Stick with one good GPU, like a 1070.

  4. There's really no need for a Titan X unless you're a professional videographer or graphics editor. That's beyond overkill. A 1070 is more than enough for any gamer today.

  5. You went overkill on some parts but only listed 16 GB of RAM. You should go with 32.

  6. You didn't include your audio options like a DAC, amp, or speakers, and could have listed a better headset. I have the Sennheiser PC 363D (Amazon link) for gaming and watching TV/movies, and it's awesome. For listening to music, I use Sennheiser HD 598 SE (Amazon link). For your PC audio, you want good speakers. Check out the JBL LSR305 (Amazon link). You want a decent DAC, so check out the Schiit Modi 2 or Modi 2 Uber (Amazon link for Modi 2) (Amazon link for Modi 2 Uber). You could even get the Schiit Bifrost. Depending on what headphones you get, you might also want an amp like the Schiit Magni 2. Many people call it a Schiit-stack when you have both a Schiit DAC and amp together, usually the Modi 2 and Magni 2. You could also check out the new combo DAC/amp, Schiit Jotunheim. I found some great deals on eBay and paid about half the retail price for a Schiit Bifrost Uber DAC. Some other options are: JDSLABS Objective2 + ODAC Combo, Cambridge Audio DacMagic XS v2, Micca OriGen+, Fiio E17K, AudioQuest DragonFly, and Audioengine D1. Some great people helped me learn about audio from /r/BudgetAudiophile /r/audiophile /r/Audio.

  7. Make the list with PC Part Picker Australia so it's easier for everyone to see.
u/nate-urbate · 1 pointr/buildapc

That would work perfectly. That way you aren't running the signal through two amp circuits.

Another option would be to go with a Fiio E17K, which has a 3.5mm line out which you could hook up to your speakers. It's smaller and more geared towards being portable, but I use the original E17 and it sounds great.

u/vatothe0 · 1 pointr/GalaxyS7

I have a Fiio Alpen 2 that is supposed to work on OTG for digital transfer of the music to the DAC/AMP (which is how I use in on my PC) but I've never got that function to work. It comes with a short headphone jumper cable though. Has plenty of power for my ATH-M50x's which are 38 ohms, the Crushers appear to be 32 so it would work well.

My best use of it has been with a tablet so my wife and I can watch a movie on planes with a splitter cable. The battery is good for 10+ hours on a charge.

u/TheBrainSlug · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

$110, so dead on budget. But, unsurprisingly for a portable, it only has line out and headphone out. So same features as e.g. the $67 SMSL SD793-II. I really want a usable volume knob -I'm unfortunately using an Alessis RA-100 and, as I'm sure you can imagine, having a knob for each channel is a huge pain in the arse outside of a studio environment.

u/AC3x0FxSPADES · 1 pointr/headphones

Hey guys, I recently got my first pair of "nice" headphones (Sennheiser 598 Cs) and was looking into getting a DAC/amp for them to use with my PC. I know this isn't specifically about headphones, but are there any good DAC/amp combos you would recommend?

Budget is ~$100, but any suggestions are welcome. My only caveat is it needs to have an AUX In port so I can route my mic through for reference audio. I've been looking at this one, but I have no experience in this area.

u/LeoPanthera · 1 pointr/audiophile

To drive headphones you'll need a USB DAC and a headphone amp. For $100 you're probably looking at a combination unit. The Schiit Fulla 2 fits into your budget.

You could also consider the Fiio E17K.

If you sit far from your console you'll also need a long cable!

u/xiZaRk · 1 pointr/headphones

If you got the Schiit Magni 2 you definitely need an amp because it only has RCA input. Most people get the Schiit Modi 2 with it, hence why they call it a Schiit stack. The Schiit combo isn't very mobile at all.

If you are looking for something to also use with a phone as well as on the laptop I would suggest the Fiio E17k or if you just want a laptop setup (for like working in an office) you could consider the Schiit Fulla 2.

I wouldn't worry too much about trying to find the "perfect" amp because most $100+ amps will be more than enough to power most headphones. Your computer
is technically enough to power them though it would sound much better through an amp/DAC combo (either as a single unit or separate amp and DAC units).

u/peaceandhumor · 1 pointr/SSBM

Sup Fam,


I currently own this amp:


https://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E17K-ALPEN-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00RPD7KP8


Is there a way to use this such that I can connect it to a CRT and get in game sound?

u/leyts · 1 pointr/audio

Looking for something more portable so the E09k might not work but through the Amazon questions I came across the Fiio E17K ALPEN 2 USB DAC Headphone Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RPD7KP8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xcNHzbAVTGQE2

Might try this option.

u/peacockj08 · 1 pointr/headphones

Should I get the Fiio E17k DAC/Headphone amp or would I be better off going with something else? I'm looking for a dac with a headphone amp for no more than $100. I would like it to be portable and have an aux in. Is this my best option or should I go with something else?

https://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E17K-ALPEN-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00RPD7KP8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481228769&sr=8-1&keywords=e17k

u/-Mysdroy- · 1 pointr/AVexchange

I'm not sure where you are getting 27 CAD. On Amazon.ca it's $178 CAD... https://www.amazon.ca/FiiO-E17K-ALPEN-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00RPD7KP8. Anyways if you can get it for that price why not go for that?

u/Ashley_Nexus · 1 pointr/headphones

Budget is 100$. Headphones are ATH-M50xWH. Looking for a USB DAC for my Galaxy S5. Any help is greatly appreciated. I've been looking at these which are a little over the budget but I might be able to swing it. I love bass but I don't want it to distort or silence/quiet any treble.

u/crispycornflakes6870 · 1 pointr/audiophile

Hi there,
from personal experience I'd recommend the Sennheiser ie80 ($200 USD) with the Fiio E17K ($100 USD). :)

u/MrDuckworthB · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

I went a seperate route.

Once I got my speakers (w/ receiver), I bought a Fiio E17k AMP/DAC and a bluetooth adapter.

I plug the bluetooth adapter into the input on my AMP/DAC, and connect my receiver to the output from my AMP/DAC. Works great for playing music from any bluetooth device. I also have the AMP/DAC plugged into my PC via USB to use as a soundcard, and just have to hit the input button on the AMP/DAC to switch from AUX(bluetooth) to USB(computer).

u/Bubcha · 1 pointr/battlestations

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GPV7AH4/ref=s9_dcbhz_bw_d0_g23_i1_sh

This is a super basic amp and portable. You may also want a DAC (Digital to Analog Converter) as well assuming it's for a desktop computer setup.

This should be a decent intro level DAC/Amp combo: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A2QLPJM/ref=s9_hps_bw_g23_i2

I went with a Creative Sound Blaster. It replaced my broken headphone jack and improved audio. Just don't use the software. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004275EO4/ref=s9_hps_bw_g147_i16
And I also have this Fiio for using my Sennheiser HD280s at work. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RPD7KP8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

u/arrrghhh3 · 1 pointr/uberdrivers

Transcend 520.

There are cheaper cams for sure, but most don't have the in-car video. I actually bought a more expensive one than this Transcend, but it doesn't do in car video so looking to replace it with this one...

u/TrendingCommenterBot · 1 pointr/TrendingReddits

/r/Dashcam

Best cam recommendations


---

Cheapest: G1W-C(B) ($56 USD)

Best value: Xiaomi Yi Dashcam ($70 USD)

Discreet: A119 ($90 USD)

Versatile: Mobius ($75 USD)

Budget Dual Cam: BlackSys CF-100 ($95 USD)

Discrete Dual Cam: Blackvue DR650GW-2CH ($355 USD)

Night vision: Street Guardian SG9665GC ($209.95 USD)

Taxi/Uber Cam: Transcend DP520 ($195 USD)


Rules


---

Reddit members who are also Retailers are NOT Allowed to Post links to their site / eBay listings / Amazon listings / Aliexpress listings /etc. This is a common sense and anti-SPAM rule, but it was asked to be spelled out.

Also please do not post Dailymotion.com and Liveleak.com links, only Youtube, and the content posted must not come from any "compilation" channels (ones dedicated to uploading stolen content with no permission from the owners of the content), please post the original link, not a reupload, unless the original is not available.

See Also:


---

www.dashcamtalk.com

www.dashcamtalk.com/forum

/r/Roadcam

/r/carcrash

*****
^(Bot created by /u​ /el_loke - )^Feedback

u/BaronChuffnell · 1 pointr/Dashcam

Thank you again for your time and help with this. It looks like I will have to compromise some features. The car is sometimes left in the garage days at a time. Perhaps a dual camera setup like cabs/ubers have would catch the sides of the cars so at least I could identify the vehicle type.

The Transcend DP520 that is recommended at the right looks almost perfect, but the interior facing camera is only 110 degrees, so it might not capture what I want. https://www.amazon.com/Transcend-Drive-Recorder-Suction-TS32GDP520M/dp/B0147R9PDO/

u/IAmAfter · 1 pointr/uberdrivers

I bought the Transcend DP520 and tried it for the first time last night. Worked way better than expected. I normally tend to drive at night and the video inside and out looked pretty good.

Transcend 32GB Drive Pro 520 Car Video Recorder with Suction Mount (TS32GDP520M) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0147R9PDO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_CZVNzbVT75BP1

u/opkc · 1 pointr/Dashcam

I have the Blueskysea B1W. It’s $55 on Amazon and has a nice app where you can view and download video.

u/ivR3ddit · 1 pointr/uberdrivers

BlueSkySea B1W is affordable, on sale at $40 right now on amazon.com and may fit your needs....has all your request built in

For more reviews and suggestions...goto www.dashcamtalk.com

Here’s my setup, it’s expensive but having the piece of mind is worth every penny.

u/FatFingerHelperBot · 1 pointr/Dashcam

It seems that your comment contains 1 or more links that are hard to tap for mobile users.
I will extend those so they're easier for our sausage fingers to click!


Here is link number 1 - Previous text "B1W"



----
^Please ^PM ^/u/eganwall ^with ^issues ^or ^feedback! ^| ^Delete

u/bikersquid · 1 pointr/Dashcam

they are not. the second one is exactly what you are asking for https://www.amazon.com/Blueskysea-Recorder-Rotatable-G-Sensor-Recording/dp/B0773FXVKL best value B1W no gps connects to phone.

u/infinityATX · 1 pointr/IdiotsInCars

Just bought on Amazon, just make sure if you do get one, it has a capacitor and not a battery. It'll suffer the Texas heat better. The one i have is cheap, but it works well enough until I upgrade to a higher quality that has both front and rear cameras.

u/bensly · 1 pointr/Dashcam

Getting my first one after being screwed by insurance company. I'm going with this one as I've read mostly positive feedback, it has the features I want (wifi, GPS, buffer, capacitor), and it has really nice video

Viofo A129 GPS Dual Lens Dash Cam Full HD 1080P 140° Wide Angle Dashboard Camera w/GPS, Low Light Vision G-Sensor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CT6JPYW/

u/Rorschach1960 · 1 pointr/nissanfrontier

LOL😃 I did exactly the same thing this morning! They look like almost the same unit but I went with the Viofo A129 GPS Dual Lens Dash Cam... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CT6JPYW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Haven't actually driven yet to try it out.

u/karmakarmeeleon · 1 pointr/IdiotsInCars

There are two types of camera sets.

There is one that is for taxi/ride-share drivers that has a camera that faces forward and a camera that faces inward.

There is another set that has a forward facing camera and then a rear facing camera.

u/DeathVault__ · 1 pointr/Dashcam

I have the Viofo A129 dual camera setup and it's been completely fine in the Florida heat. I've had zero issues with it. Not sure about the bass however since my car has such little of it.

Cam I own-

Viofo A129 GPS Dual Lens Dash Cam Full HD 1080P 140° Wide Angle Dashboard Camera w/GPS, Low Light Vision G-Sensor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CT6JPYW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_WTNJDb86M7DC8

u/Pripatel21 · 1 pointr/Dallas

Viofo A129 duo

I love it, has parking mode (if you hardwire it) and gps for speed tracking. Easy installation too

u/TS2822 · 1 pointr/dashcams

Hi. I was looking in to buying a dash cam, and was wondering if the "A129 Duo" and the "Rexing V1P 3rd Gen " will record 24/7, even if the car is off, as we had a lot of problems with people driving in to our car at night.

u/AsRichards75 · 1 pointr/Dashcam

I had that cam initially until I realized that it had no GPS and a std Def rear cam. I payed the same amount for a better dashcam with the same features on Amazon

u/pequenaflorrr · 1 pointr/Dashcam
u/HugePair · 1 pointr/Dashcam

Link? I dont see it.

The A129 Duo is on sale for $135 too:
https://www.amazon.com/Viofo-Dashboard-Camera-Vision-G-Sensor/dp/B07CT6JPYW/

u/OhLawdHeChonks · 1 pointr/dashcams

The good news is that almost all dashcams are made to be installed on the inside. Also they don't leave any permanent things from installation. You can take it out without a trace and reuse in your next car. Since you don't need 4k, I'd go with the A129 Duo. It's one of the favorites on Reddit and they just went live with the black friday deal which is a steal of a deal.

u/thedaveking · 1 pointr/Denver

I've used 6 dashcam models since around 2011. Yours looks similar to the best one I've had so far, which is the Viofo A129: https://www.amazon.com/Viofo-Dashboard-Camera-Vision-G-Sensor/dp/B07CT6JPYW

u/spennnyy · 1 pointr/vancouver

It's the Viofo A129, which includes a rear cam. If you just want the front cam, there is the Viofo A119.

u/Renegade_Reid · 1 pointr/camaro

This is the one i got. Works well. And very easy to install.
APEMAN Dash Cam 1080P FHD DVR Car Driving Recorder 3inch LCD Screen 170°Wide Angle, G-Sensor, WDR, Parking Monitor, Loop Recording, Motion Detection https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DLG9GFG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DjmkDbMC7VEQT

u/ChopinPianist · 1 pointr/Austin

Le Dashcam for $31.99 APEMAN Dash Cam 1080P FHD DVR Car Driving Recorder 3 Inch LCD Screen 170° Wide Angle, G-Sensor, WDR, Parking Monitor, Loop Recording, Motion Detection https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DLG9GFG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rhnqDbQBPN2XQ

u/RazzleberryCake · 1 pointr/videos

Yes absolutely. Highly doubt they would believe I hit a couch on the highway haha.

I have this one... APEMAN Dash Cam 1080P FHD DVR Car Driving Recorder 3 Inch LCD Screen 170° Wide Angle, G-Sensor, WDR, Parking Monitor, Loop Recording, Motion Detection https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DLG9GFG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nqvKDbMH5K4JS

Best part is that it locks the 5 minutes if it detects a collision, using vibration I think.

u/romtaco · 1 pointr/GiftIdeas

yeah! as for a dash cam, i have a $40 one from amazon that works amazing. maybe something like this drones are a little more pricey, but i’m sure this would be a good price range.

u/ttttttodayjr · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon
u/davrukin · 1 pointr/accord

Generally pretty satisfied with this one:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076GYGVY5/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_u1YTDbD6X6EWW

Bought this one first and was dissatisfied with the image quality so I returned it:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DLG9GFG/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_U2YTDbM3D46BQ

u/bigbrownbeaver1221 · 1 pointr/IdiotsInCars

If your looking for cheap i went with this one on amazon and it hasnt had a problem yet

APEMAN Dash Cam 1080P FHD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DLG9GFG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_82LWCbZTWZ325

u/8679305 · 1 pointr/Dashcam

Got two of these B1W for around $100.

u/chingon863 · 1 pointr/ToyotaHighlander

I use this https://smile.amazon.com/Blueskysea-B1W-Recorder-Rotatable-Recording/dp/B0773FXVKL on my highlander and Dodge charger is good for the price and recommended on r/Dashcam

u/roviuser · 1 pointr/Dashcam

I got this one and was very happy with it BlueSkySea B1W

u/Mr_Roadside616 · 1 pointr/grandrapids

Yeah just shop around to find a dashcam that would work good for you. I use a Transcend DrivePro 520

https://www.amazon.com/Transcend-Drive-Recorder-Suction-TS32GDP520M/dp/B0147R9PDO

Then plug it in and suction cup to your window and you're good to go. Make sure you read reviews before making your purchase.

u/enigmasolver · 1 pointr/HelpMeFind

You didn't mention a range you consider inexpensive

I have heard good things about the Drive Pro 520 it is $186 USD

https://www.amazon.com/Transcend-Drive-Recorder-Suction-TS32GDP520M/dp/B0147R9PDO

u/LightnLar · 1 pointr/Dashcam

I just purchased a Transcend 32GB Drive Pro 520 Car Video Recorder with Suction Mount (TS32GDP520M) a couple of weeks ago. So far I am well pleased with it, it's on Amazon for $148.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0147R9PDO/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&th=1

u/bagel_maker974 · 1 pointr/videos

I got this one and love it. I have it right behind my rear view mirror and always put my sunshade up to hide it.

u/stopnopls · 1 pointr/Dashcam

not op but I got this cheap one from Amazon and haven't had any issues

u/Rammite · 1 pointr/IdiotsInCars

The exact model that I have is discontinued. I'd definitely go with the sidebar for /r/dashcams, their most basic suggestion is $60, and they're certainly a better judge of quality than I am.

u/M2ThaL · 1 pointr/subaruoutback

I have a couple of different models in our cars. This Aukey dash cam which already saved me having to pay my deductible when someone rear ended my Outback. I have this YI dash cam in my wife's CRV and my kids cars and it does nicely. I know there are better cams but these perform well for the money.

u/deutsch-technik · 1 pointr/BMW

I use this one in all of my cars. After four months of use I don't have any complaints.

https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Dashboard-Camera-Recorder-6-Lane/dp/B01M592J9C

u/1Delta · 1 pointr/gifs

I've used this Aukey one for 14 months with absolutely no issues and where I live, summer days are at least 95° and winter nights get well below freezing. It's always continually recorded without issues and the mount has stayed on.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M592J9C?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

u/stingen · 1 pointr/houston

Bought this one for that exact reason.

AUKEY Dash Cam, Dashboard Camera Recorder with Full HD 1080P, 6-Lane 170° Wide Angle Lens, 2" LCD and Night Vision https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M592J9C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sS.JBbS04B18K

u/cavemaneca · 1 pointr/IdiotsInCars

Not the same person, but after reading around a bit I bought an Aukey DR01. It has really good quality, even in low light/night (no "night vision" infrared mode though). It has most of the basic features and is only like $60 on Amazon. You'll still need to buy an SD card, but really 16/32GB is good enough, just make sure it's class 10 minimum.

Amazon Link

u/HlValadeen · 1 pointr/holdmybeer

https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Dashboard-Camera-Recorder-Vision/dp/B01M592J9C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500867199&sr=8-1&keywords=aukey+dash+cam

This is one with a capacitor and not a battery. Better for folks that live in hotter areas because batteries will swell up in hotter conditions.

u/Atomsq · 1 pointr/legaladvice

Just a recommendation but, if this happens as often as you say, both should get dash cams, you can get good ones from $50 to $100 and it will avoid things like this.

If you live in a hot are get a capacitor one, if not, a regular battery camera should be good

I recommend this ones
https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Dashboard-Camera-Recorder-Vision/dp/B01M592J9C/ref=pd_ybh_a_20?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/VIOFO-Compact-A119-Optional-included/dp/B01M28B92C/ref=pd_ybh_a_14?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1


I have the Viofo and so far so good, I believe the aukey is down to $50 right now with code W82APPUN

Just my two cents

u/prof0ak · 1 pointr/JusticeServed

this is the one I got, I really like it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M592J9C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Don't forget to fakespot the reviews too, especially on electronics.

https://www.fakespot.com/

u/DudeAdm · 1 pointr/IdiotsInCars

Same! I got one of these AUKEY.

For some reason ever since I gotten it everyone's been nice and safe about driving

u/ChrisNYC70 · 1 pointr/longisland

I have this one, luckily I have not had the need to review the footage yet, but it works well and seems easy to use

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M592J9C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/KeronCyst · 1 pointr/Dashcam

It's still 4.1/5 with an adjusted score: https://reviewmeta.com/amazon/B01M592J9C

But after browsing through banter on here and Slickdeals, it does seem to have more returns than it should. Viofo is still king in this price range.

u/atbPy · 1 pointr/Columbus

I have had the Anker Roav A1 for about a month now, Anker Roav DashCam A1, Dash Cam... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076GYGVY5. The video quality is good. I will have to see how it holds up over time. The suction cup did fall often when it was super hot but seems to be stable now. It uses 1GB of disk for every 10 minutes so I’d recommend at least a 64 GB SD card. I got the Sandisk High Endurance Video one.

u/MichiganBelle_31 · 1 pointr/IdiotsInCars

Anker Roav DashCam A1, Dash Cam for Car, Driving Recorder, 1080p FHD LCD Screen, Nighthawk Vision, Wide Angle Lens, Wi-Fi, G-Sensor, WDR, Loop Recording, Night Mode, Motion Detection, Dedicated App https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076GYGVY5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QA2hDbV958NY0

u/mirinfashion · 1 pointr/rav4club

I bought something identical to this, mounts to the mirror stalk. The one I'm using in my car is an Anker dash cam, which I bought due to the price at the time ($20), dashcamtalk forum is a good site for recommendations. I believe some still mount it next to the safety camera and just angle the lens of the dash cam as appropriate.

https://www.amazon.com/Dash-Cam-Mount-Holder-Different/dp/B07PPFT3HH/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=dashcam+mirror+mount&qid=1567804971&s=gateway&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/Dashboard-Recorder-Nighthawk-Wide-Angle-Recording/dp/B076GYGVY5/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=anker+dashcam&qid=1567805058&s=gateway&sr=8-3

u/Vestax- · 1 pointr/sandiego

https://www.amazon.com/Roav-Dashboard-Nighthawk-Wide-Angle-Recording/dp/B076GYGVY5/ref=zg_bs_3248689011_10?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=A5762R329200QN081P33

This is the dash cam that I use. Very easy to set up. Once in a while you can find it a lot cheaper through slickdeals.

u/RobbieDubb · 1 pointr/IdiotsInCars

Roav by Anker, DashCam A1, Dash Cam, Dashboard Camera Recorder, 1080P FHD, Nighthawk Vision, Wide-Angle View, WiFi, G-Sensor, WDR, Loop Recording, and Night Mode https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076GYGVY5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mb55Bb6GMN28J

u/sushil33t · 1 pointr/ToyotaTacoma

I didn’t want to leave my GoPro 7 in there lest it be stolen so I got a cheap ROAV camera on a flash sale on amazon. The software is a bit clunky but it actually makes high quality videos with sound. Pleasantly surprised with it. The camera is powered by usb cord that tucks nicely into the upholstery and along the door so you don’t even know it’s there.

I think I paid $40.

https://www.amazon.com/Dashboard-Recorder-Nighthawk-Wide-Angle-Recording/dp/B076GYGVY5

u/Stolenartwork · 1 pointr/IdiotsInCars

This is the one I use personally

It’s pretty good for 50ish bucks, decent low light performance if you position it correctly

u/Joshalander · 1 pointr/Dashcam
u/AnkerKev · 1 pointr/anker

Our sister company, Roav, is the one to go to for this.

Here's one of my favorite dashcams from us.

u/InformalWish · 1 pointr/lawncare

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B076GYGVY5?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

This is what I have, bought it after seeing a few recommendations on Reddit and then liked it so i bought it again for my dad. One of the things I really like is it didn't melt in the Florida heat this summer lol. It's $56 with a $5 coupon right now.

u/xxYYZxx · 1 pointr/CarAV

I've been recommending Polk db 6501 components, as these are a closeout model and on sale for about $115/pr if you check the web. By extension I would recommend the Polk db coax speakers of various sizes.

The Polks play very loud with minimal power (92db sensitivity), so 40 watts is plenty. The only problem you may have with them is finding a sub that can keep up.

I'd recommend adding front speakers and skipping the rear 6x9 holes, at least until you've added a sub and other upgrades. The rear speakers can be used as ambience speakers, but it's simply not necessary and only for passengers really. You can even use fairly cheap, full-range 6x9's (no tweeters) for the rears.

u/Inmate_95123 · 1 pointr/car_audio

Normally you spend money on the front speakers and even go without rear 6x9's
That being said you can also save a few bucks on a 2 channel amp to run the just front speakers.

Shoving a pair of 6x9's in the rear dash when you have a 15 inch subwoofer in the trunk can sometimes be counter productive when you can leave the 6x9 rear speaker holes empty to allow the bass to more easily make it inside the cabin of the car.

Considering I have a round about estimate of your budget this is what I would do:

Sub amplifier:
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_48?ie=UTF8&qid=1468928854&sr=8-48&keywords=3+channel+amplifier

Subwoofer:
https://www.amazon.com/E-12-V-3-D2-Sundown-Subwoofer/dp/B01CZ4M9RA/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929161&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=sundown+e12+d2

Subwoofer box:
https://www.amazon.com/Atrend-12LSV-12-Inch-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B0013MWT12/ref=sr_1_10?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1468929607&sr=1-10&keywords=12+inch+subwoofer+box

Front speaker amp:
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R150X2-2-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HY84/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929435&sr=8-3&keywords=2+channel+amplifier

Front speakers:
https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB651-Certified-Speakers/dp/B000P0PF9G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929479&sr=8-1&keywords=polk+audio+6.5

or if you can spring for a few more bucks:
https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929479&sr=8-2&keywords=polk+audio+6.5

You will still need an amplifier wiring kit:
https://www.amazon.com/Lightning-Rockford-Fosgate-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B00PB4BEE6/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929693&sr=8-12&keywords=amplifier+kit

Why do I recommend this setup?
For the money you are spending and the music you are listening to this will be the best value.

The 15 inch kicker subwoofer you picked is ok but the 12 inch Sundown subwoofer will play lower and hit harder in the proper box. Ive installed both of these subs in the past and the 12 inch Sundown is a phenomenal sub and the Kicker is no comparison.

Subwoofer box:
The subwoofer box you picked out isn't really that expensive when talking about the cost of a quality built sub box. However, the box you picked out is a small sealed enclosure. This will limit the really low frequencies your subwoofer could produce if in a larger box. A lot of the time it is better to opt for a smaller size sub in a larger ported enclosure for producing low frequencies such as rap and dubstep than a larger sub in a small sealed enclosure.

Amplifier:
You picked out two different amplifiers. The sub amp I recommended has a higher rms output rating and better quality components. The amp for the full range speakers has the same better specs. You also picked out a 4 channel amp which is a waste of money when you can get more out of a 2 channel amp. 2 channel amps can still power 4 speakers if wired properly. Although, I would suggest forgetting about upgrading rear 6x9's and upgrade the front stage.

Front speakers:
The front speakers I recommended are some of the best sounding speakers I have installed at their price point. The front speakers are the most important more over the rear speakers because that is where you are setting. I recommended the 6.5 because I believe those are the requirements for your car. If not then opt for the 5.25 of the same line

Note: I am a professional installer with 22 years of experience and have installed more systems than most people ever get to hear in a lifetime.


u/CoolHandPB · 1 pointr/CarAV

For high quality sound on a budget I'd do things a bit differently. Get a good set of component speakers (like these) for the front doors and get a 2 channel amp to power them. Drop the 6x9s you won't need them in the coupe.

A head unit doesn't have a very good amp and the sound quality won't be very good, even at low volumes. Two speakers running off an amp will sound better (and louder) than 4 off a head unit.

A sub will need an amp. A good sub with a good amp will be a great addition and will improve sound quality but you'll need to spend an extra $250+ for everything (Sub, Enclosure, Amp, Wiring, installation) for something that's decent quality. I'd leave this for now as it doesn't fit into your budget.

I have pioneer head unit, Polk MM651s and a Rockford 2 channel amp, the sound quality is great. I plan to add a sub in the future and replace my speakers with components.

Based on your post, I was wondering if you even needed a head unit. If you need is AUX input, I wonder i there are amps with AUX input or if you can wire an iPod/Music Player directly to an amp without the HU. HU's really don't do much these days, I like my Head Unit it has all sorts f features but really 90% of what I use it for is to play audio over Bluetooth off my phone. Hopefully someone with more knowledge can answer this for us.

u/BumpinSpeaks · 1 pointr/CarAV

Thinking on getting either infinity or polk or one of these in the search

u/bsaliba · 1 pointr/CarAV

Oh really? this is the setup I got

http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ

Edit I also have the speaker harness

u/cjk813 · 1 pointr/CarAV

You'd get better sound quality putting a 2 way component set up front and leaving your rears stock. This is what I'd go with on your budget.

Headunit $230

Sub $60

Box $45

4 channel amp $135

Front components $120

Total is $590, so a little over your $600 budget after wiring and adapters. If you run this you would power your front components using the first 2 channels of the amp, and you'd power the sub by bridging channels 3 and 4. You'd keep your rears stock and fade your sound all the way to the front for the best sound quality. This would be a pretty nice budget sound quality system.

For the fronts you would just have to buy 6x8 to 6.5 adapters for your vehicle and mount the tweeters somewhere, usually either your doors or a-pillars.

u/Herp_in_my_Derp · 1 pointr/CarAV

I see. Do you know of any speakers closer to the $100 mark? Checked my bank I got $390 to spend.

Edit: What would you say about these?http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ
I found them on the suggested FAQ

u/Arbiter10 · 1 pointr/CarAV

You mentioned you had a blueprint, is that a universal one that a craftsmen could use that would provide the best output or is it only for a specific spec/size?

Will check out those components, thanks.
To add onto this component, I saw these Polks on amazon for a good price.

https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497924801&sr=8-1&keywords=POlk+DB+6501

Would these work with the Alpine amplifier?.. i'm assuming they'd work with the one you suggested. Also, I was told (idk if this is bullshit or not) that when you are running two amplifiers, you want to have them be the same brand... is there any truth to this? Not that it's necessary, but preferred.

I somewhat have a hunch that this place has some deal/discount with Alpine which is why they suggest their products so much.


ALSO is this the rockford amp you are suggesting? --- would get this one if the amplifiers matching thing is bs

https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497925174&sr=8-1&keywords=rockford+500.1+amplifier

u/scottocs · 1 pointr/S2000

So you have these? They look a little more complicated to install. If that's not them, what do you have? Remember I'm an audio-newbie, so anything that involves an amp or extra wiring confuses me.

u/redditandpoop · 1 pointr/CarAV

Im open to it. Honestly I was think these Polks in the front at the most. Like I said, theres no reason to go full audiophile since its just a truck.

u/PSYKO_Inc · 1 pointr/CarAV

These look pretty good: JBL GTO609C Premium 6.5-Inch Component Speaker System - Set of 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ANI3LAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_W6jHzbECF9SVW

For a few bucks more, I've also heard good things about these: Polk Audio DB6501 6.5-Inch 2-Way Component System (Pair, Silver) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P0R6LQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_r8jHzbT4S09VR

u/Trevsmoker · 1 pointr/CarAV

Thanks for the info. Do you think the MTX amp would be worth it in the long run (like, would the Power Acoustik amp die on me)?

Also: I've heard that these Alpines are great speakers and I am wondering if it would be worth it to shell out the extra $50. Or maybe I should go with these Polks. You seem to be pretty educated when it comes to audio; what would your choice be?

u/apanthropy · 1 pointr/CarAV

Nothing wrong with those components... how about a pair of these guys and one of these so they don't meet the same fate..

u/NerdMachine · 1 pointr/BuildaCarAVForMe

They are 6.5 and I found these recommended in a thread with a few upvotes: http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ

Does that seem like a good deal?

A few reviews I looked at indicated that some kind of spacing is needed such as a mdf ring. Is this what is needed in the car?

u/THEMCV · 1 pointr/CarAV

Taken from a previous post

> I'm planning on getting the Fi Q 12 sealed w/1100 RMS Hifonics amp powering it and have these as my speakers

u/Zerogein · 1 pointr/FordFocus

I'm not sure how the tweeters come out because I haven't changed my speakers over yet. In shaa Allah. But I do have a fairly high end set of Polk audio woofers and tweeters with crossover so you're not crazy for going that route. I've seen people wire in the mini amps like the one made by alpine which I also have.

So I'm pretty sure it's possible to wire in all that stuff. These are the speakers I have:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000P0R6LQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1465262462&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=polk+audio+6.5+speakers&dpPl=1&dpID=41lSW9Ti-gL&ref=plSrch

u/Quasar232 · 1 pointr/mazda3

Update- I picked up this system: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P0R6LQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Ill let everyone know how it is.
Question: Does anyone know where the hell the front most Bose speaker is? It is 3.5 inch but I legit have no idea where it is

u/haloinc · 1 pointr/CarAV

Here's what I ended up ordering, and I'm getting this installed by a local shop, so I'll buy the dash kit and sub wiring from them. They will also be building a custom box for the sub.

Sub: Kicker 10C124 Comp 12-Inch 4 SVC (single sub)

Amp: Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amplifier

Front speakers: Polk DB6501 6.5-Inch 2-Way Component

Rear Speakers: Polk DB401 4-Inch Coaxial

Head Unit: Pioneer DEHX6600BT

u/tcpip4lyfe · 1 pointr/CarAV

These fit in an 04 WRX with a spacer so look for speakers this size. Decent speaker too though a little trebly.

u/FiveFive55 · 1 pointr/saab

This is what I have. A lower end model would probably achieve the same effect but I can't say for certain. However using thay with a micro usb on the go cable works great!

u/great_gape · 1 pointr/buildapc

This one and that one are a good place to start if you want a dac/amp


u/SicilSlovak · 1 pointr/audiophile

FiiO E7. It will let you take it with you as well, for when you want to use your headphones away from the computer.

u/EpicMuppet · 1 pointr/hiphopheads

If your'e looking at portable amps I recommend this.

Edit: Forgot that it was a two piece set, this is the portable that goes a long with it, they work perfectly hand in hand.

u/denimalpaca · 1 pointr/audiophile

That's still for a computer, though. Looks too big to fit in your pocket. [This] (http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B003N0XDT4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1344016364&sr=8-1&keywords=Fiio+e7) however would be good if you really wanted to take your huge ass audiophile headphones on the go and have them sound good. More than anything, I find that my headphones (Sennheiser HD 380s) are just too big to walk around with.

But if the device used to play is a computer, then Arve ,your comment looks pretty awesome.

u/shvr · 1 pointr/headphones

In that price range the only things I can think of is the FiiO E7 or E10. Those are both a DAC and an amp though, so either will more or less replace the E11, although you could bypass the amp in either and run a line to your E11 if you really wanted too.

Alternatively, you could buy the ODAC from JDS Labs for $150, which would be your best option. It doesn't include an amp so you'll have to run it to your E11.

You could probably also pick up an internal pci soundcard (I see the ASUS Xonar thrown around a lot but I know nothing about it) for much cheaper. But I'm an external kind of guy, and usually internal sound cards aren't recommended (due to potential noise issues similar to what you are currently experiencing).

u/RobotLegion · 1 pointr/bassheavy

This will be my second time typing this out, since I hit the fucking Browser-Back shortcut on my mouse.

I wouldn't recommend the Koss Plugs as a set of mixing phones, even while travelling. The clarity is simply nonexistant. My suggestion is just to use them as a second pair to check out your bassline before you finalize a track. For something more balanced, you might want to set aside an hour or two and drag your eyeballs over this thread over at head-fi.

As an off-the-cuff recommendation, Velodyne vPulse have gained quite a reputation in the under-$150 category. they have plenty of bass output, but it's much tighter than the Koss, no muddiness. They also get plenty of compliments on the detail in the midrange/treble.

/r/Audiophile is a great resource, as is /r/Headphones, but to save yourself from shame, I will tell you ahead of time, anything called a soundcard will almost certainly get you laughed out.

Puts on top hat and monocle, raising a cup of tea with the pinky out

>A gentleman uses a DAC with a seperate Headphone Amplifier.

In all fairness a soundcard is nothing but a DAC with a built-on amp, though the integrated amp circuits are terrible, in terms of audio reproduction.

You can get a DAC and feed an amp with it, or you can get a DAC/Amp combo, which is a popular place to begin, and is a great solution for a personal digital studio, especially if you use your laptop as a creative device away from home. The most recommended (for good reason) is the FiiO e7. It performes both the DAC and amplifier functions, as well as including an input jack and a battery so you can stick it in your pocket and connect it to your ipod/phone/whatever and increase the quality of your portable listening as well (This bypasses the DAC and only uses the amp). The only drawback to the e7 is that the amp is kind of puny. Mind you it is still more powerful than whatever is built into your devices, but it can leave you wanting if you have some high-end, high-impedance headphones. To solve that, you can either get a FiiO e9 amplifier to leave on your desk and dock the e7 to when you are at home, or you can pick up a FiiO e17 which is almost identical to the e7, but with more juice to the amp. You mentioned a speaker setup at home, so you would also want a FiiO l7 line out plug so you could run the un-amped output of the DAC to your speakers. Keep in mind, none of this passes as "Audiophile grade" hardware, but it's certainly (digital) studio quality.

All in all, an e7 and a pair of vPulse IEMs would set you back about $150, give you the low-end you need, a full-up system you could pack in your pocket while you're on the move, and also boost the quality of your 8400's, and whatever monitors you choose at home.

I'll get off my soapbox now. Hopefully that gives you a head start on your research.

.

.

.

^tiny ^disclaimer: I don't work for FiiO, I'm not trying to sell you FiiO stuff, I don't even use FiiO myself. They just have a great reputation, and market at a reasonable price-range.

u/krux9 · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

I don't think ANY motherboard has a good enough sound card for headphones because you can hear every background noise that poor insulation involves (and most motherboards have that problem). The problem with dedicated sound cards is that they're most of the time geared towards pros and very expensive and packed with features you won't need, I think you should get a USB DAC if you're not bothered by the fact that you're going to have something outside of the computer's case, the advantage is that you can use it on every computer you own while it still works. The FiiO E7 is a popular choice because it's portable and cheap for what it does (DAC + amplifier), you can get it on Amazon or elsewhere. If you want to go for a dedicated sound card, browse head-fi.org, I cannot really help you with that, I've never found them that interesting.

EDIT: btw, to answer your question about headphones, try the Sennheiser HD-25s if you want to get good isolation (so that you can use it in public and not bother anyone and not be bothered too much), they're excellent monitoring headphones for the price and nobody complains too much about the sound AFAIK, the main problem is the clamp, they can hurt after a few hours and over-the-ear headphones are more comfortable by design. If you're really on a budget or want to expand your possibilities, get Koss Porta Pros, they're cheap and they're really good for the price (less than 30$ IIRC), or Sennheiser PX-100, these are both smaller and more portable open headphones. Good luck anyway, and don't make the bet of not trying any headphones live before buying, I never regretted getting my HD-25s, but I wasn't aware that the clamp might hurt that much.

u/streetlight2 · 1 pointr/Nexus6P

Here's a possible solution. Relatively expensive, though.

http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-USB-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B003N0XDT4

u/toja92 · 1 pointr/jailbreak

Sounds like you need an external amplifier instead - something like the FiiO E7 should work: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003N0XDT4

Or maybe the FiiO E5: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001P9EQH8

u/Jeagermeister · 1 pointr/headphones

Thx for the fast answer. I took a look at the schiit magni it appears to be a very good amp for little money. The problem is I live in Europe (sorry for not being specific in my question) so the amp+shipping would cost me around 150 $.
So I took a look at some over amps and amp/DAC's . What do you think about the FiiO E7 Amp/DAC

http://www.amazon.com/Fiio-USB-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B003N0XDT4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1382207136&sr=8-2&keywords=Fiio+E7

u/Lat3nt · 1 pointr/headphones

If you want an amp, the Fiio E7/E9 Combo is really nice.

u/huppie · 1 pointr/financialindependence

I have a pretty cheap portable amp (Fiio E7) that I use when playing music from my phone. Works surprisingly well.

u/rotewote · 1 pointr/buildapc

I dont remember the impedence on 598 but if it is low enough, which I believe it is, I would only get http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003N0XDT4/ref=redir_mdp_mobile I run this for my akg401s if however you ever upgraded to something higher impedance say sen650+ you could simply get the amp that that dac plugs into later down the road (have listens to this setup on 650s and it's beautiful). Amp I'm referring to http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004M172FY/ref=aw_1st_sims_2?pi=SL500_SS115 .

u/Thatoneguy335 · 1 pointr/Metalcore

Ahhh m30. I'm using the m50s but I had the same problem. I don't mean a big thing like that reciever, I mean a headphone amp with a bass booster function. This is what I use:

http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E11-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0053KWDES/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1395606163&sr=8-3&keywords=fiio+headphone+amp

u/RedTempest · 1 pointr/Metal

You should definitely look into those two:

Beyerdynamic DT 770 PRO

Audio-Technica ATH-M50

I have the ones from Audio-Technica and am fully satisfied. Back when I wanted to buy some good headphones I originally planned on buying the DT 770 PRO from Beyerdynamics but before I could order them a friend told me that the Audio-Technica ATH-M50 were currently discounted - so I went with them.

You'll most likley need a portable headphone amplifier like this one if you want to use the Beyerdynamic DT 770 PRO with your smartphone.

u/shadowkillerdragon · 1 pointr/PS3

You would want to use the composite cables that came with ps3.

http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-40645-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B000J1H4VI/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1372095739&sr=8-9&keywords=rca+to+3.5mm

using that you can get the audio to a 3.5mm jack
http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E5-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B001P9EQH8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1372095704&sr=8-2&keywords=Fiio+amp
http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E11-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0053KWDES/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1372095704&sr=8-4&keywords=Fiio+amp

get yourself and amplifier so you can control volume.
plug the RCA->3.5mm into the amplifier input and plug anything you want as the output be it speakers or headphones.

This is what i use to get my HD650s working with my ps3 :D. It works quite nicely

u/Apparition462 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

This is what i have. Has an amp to boost the volume, as well as the ability to adjust gain and an equalizer.

Im using Sennheiser 280 pros with this and its able to get very loud without distorting.

Edit:switched to amazon link

I did buy it a long time ago so there is probably a new version.

u/warplayer · 1 pointr/3DS

Actually, I just read a review over on Head-Fi and was shocked to find they say it sounds better than the more expensive e7!!! My man, I think you just picked out my next purchase. Thanks again! :D

Edit: I must admit, for an extra $30 the e11 is looking mighty tempting, too.

u/thesneakywalrus · 1 pointr/audiophile

Not sure if you're onboard will be able to drive them to their potential.

The FiiO E11 will certainly drive your 50ohm headphones.

If you're looking for something a little more robust looking and desktop oriented, the FiiO E9 will drive most any headphone out there.

u/whiskeynrye · 1 pointr/nexus6

http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E11-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0053KWDES

is what I would suggest as something cheap-ish and basic, i'm currently running a E17 with MDR 7506's. Even if your phone has the capacity to properly power lower ohms headphones it's worth it to invest in a good amp.

That E11 is only a amp though, the E17 is a DAC and Amp, I use the E17 as my soundcard wherever I go, it's awesome.

u/greenops · 1 pointr/headphones

Budget - About $200 can go a little higher if there is a real increase in quality.


Source - An amp ( The Amp ) and hten into my phone or computer. I will buy a desktop amp in the future.


Requirements for Isolation - They are for use at home at my computer mostly there is no real isolation requirement.


Preferred Type of Headphone - Full sized.


Preferred tonal balance - I like my sound to sound crisp and defined. I also like good bass that you can feel. I really hate it when songs sound almost muffled. My EQ's usually end up being a parabola shaped (u shaped). I hate it when the good bass sound comes at the cost of the rest of the audio quality. I also hate it when bass just ends up being a constant rumble (like what happens sometimes with the bass guitar) instead of sounding like punches if that makes any sense, but then again that may just be the songs themselves and not the equipment. I also like my guitars to great so when a crunchy guitar riff comes on I'm able to hear it well. Lastly I like vocals too. A well balanced sound with emphasis on the bass if it does not come at the cost of the quality of the other areas is what I'm looking for.


Past headphones - Siberia v2: Admittedly I did not buy these for music, they really suck in that department even with my portable amp they do not get loud enough and they have far too little bass and while they play the music nothing really stands out as good about them.

Sennheiser HD 7 DJ: I bought these last week somewhat an impulse purchase and I am not exactly happy with the sound, while it's better than anything else I own currently (I own Razer Hammerhead Pro's, Sennheise cx-300's and the siberia v2) I still don't think it sounds great. My car has pretty good sounding speakers. When I play a song in my car I can get both defined sounding guitar and great bass but with these headphones some songs guitar and/or vocals (most commonly guitar though) sounds like absolute crap. No matter what I do with the EQ I can't get it to sound right. I have 3 more weeks to return these if I choose to do so.

Preferred Music - I listen to a lot of different stuff, Most commonly metal, rock, rap and pop. I however also listen to trance, electronic, jazz, and folk from time to time. I'll post a few examples below.

Metal

Metal

Rock

Rock

Rap/Hip-Hop

Rap/Hip-Hop

u/ramsr · 1 pointr/headphones

try these

u/The_Space_Cowboy · 1 pointr/Music

Ok I got one more question for you, to get the most out of them would you recommend buying the amplifier? http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E11-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0053KWDES/ref=pd_luc_bxgy_01_01_t_lh

u/Monotonousblob · 1 pointr/headphones

I don't even use the base because the battery pack gets in the way.

So I can't find the 32hom version anywhere but I did find some deals for the 80 ohm, cheap enough that I could get a portable amp, such as this.

The prices I found were:

used

refurb

used a few times - - looks like 250ohm, better?

wholesale from China

Any you recommend trusting or not trusting? Any other places you would recommend?

u/Jawesome2 · 1 pointr/headphones

For the headphones, I would recommend the Klipsch X10. Here is a review from Head-Fi. These headphones have a pretty good seal so you get excellent isolation and virtually no leakage.

As for the amp, I'd go with the FiiO E11. Solid build construction, and it packs quite a punch. It only has a 10 hour battery life though, which can get annoying if you listen to music a lot.

These two products combined cost about $182 on amazon, though I'm sure you can find a better deal if you look hard enough.

u/ubsam · 1 pointr/headphones

The FiiO E11 portable amp should be a perfectly acceptable device to drive your DT-770's at 80 ohms. This is because 80 Ohms is not necessarily a high impedance so you don't need to spend tons of money on the actual amp itself.

Here's a link to the actual product: http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E11-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0053KWDES/ref=sr_ob_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1375633942&sr=8-1

I also recently purchased a DT 770 80 Ohm, it should arrive in 2 days, although I picked up an FiiO E07k AMP/DAC combo to go with it, thats about 90 bucks.

u/explosivo563 · 1 pointr/audio

I've heard anything over 200 ohms will greatly benefit from an amp. Those headphones have even been bundled together with a fiio amp like this

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0053KWDES?cache=5a525fc4f6e55beafe1dd0fde8e1e62d&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1410361843&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

u/Lefthandedsock · 1 pointr/AdviceAnimals

I was using a Fiio E11.

So you can see why I was having issues. Lesson learned, though; Don't cop out on an amp when you're buying $400 headphones.

u/Dominoes282 · 1 pointr/headphones

I've heard people use this amp with the re400s and said the bass boost option helps. Can't speak on their behalf but it works for them.

u/arflol · 1 pointr/audiophile

So I’m sort of new to the audio setup thing, but I recently bought the AKG 7xx on Massdrop:


https://www.massdrop.com/buy/akg-k7xx-massdrop-first-edition-headphones


And I also bought the Fiio E11 (that I can return):


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0053KWDES/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


And I was wondering, should I get a better amplifier? The 7xx came with a large jack that looks like it goes into a guitar amplifier, while the E11 only has 3.5mm jacks ins/outs. I like the 7xx’s form factor and it’s very comfortable so I want to keep it, but I am not attached to the E11 at all and was wondering if I should replace it. Portability doesn't mean much to me, since I will use it mainly as an amp on my desk when I'm using my desktop.


Also, should I get a sound card for my desktop? Or is just plugging into 3.5mm jacks on my tower good enough for the most part? My budget is flexible but I want something that will do my current set of headphones justice.

u/Stridyr · 1 pointr/Vive

actually, you don't use a subwoofer. That's for your ears. A buttkicker is for your chair to increase immersion. Take the audio from the game and send it to an amp that powers a device that turns the low frequencies into vibration rather than sound.

Budget version: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002ZPTBI/ref=pd_cp_0_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BJXA2YJ27WEMSPYSWB7S

and the amp:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0070Z87YO/ref=pd_cp_0_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BJXA2YJ27WEMSPYSWB7S

If you have the money, this also works and they have an even better one for a lot more money.
https://www.amazon.com/ButtKicker-Mini-Subwoofer-Home-Theater/dp/B0052AXFKK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1469580568&sr=8-6&keywords=buttkicker
Don't forget that this one also needs an amp.

Now getting the audio from the game to the kicker can be a problem depending on your system. If you run into problems, you'll want the audio software called VoiceMeeter. Free(donateware -it's worth it).

u/Moto13k · 1 pointr/VRGaming

I have a simple cheap setup that i use for VR flight and racing sims. It provides a nice rumble, granted it's not as precise as something like simvibe but it gets the job done.

i have the following hardware:

u/Jakomako · 1 pointr/buildapc

Hey, that's what I've got! It sounds great. Perfect for an apartment. Lepai makes an amp with a 68 watt subwoofer ouput. Get that and a passive subwoofer and you've got a pretty bangin custom 2.1 setup.

http://www.amazon.com/ANV-515-Passived-Sub-Woofer-Speaker-Silver/dp/B005CKN00U/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

http://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=pd_sim_sbs_e_7?ie=UTF8&refRID=0HC0W7NCWY0AQB7RQVDW

u/miragep · 1 pointr/audiophile

Hi, I need help to power my new headphones (ath m50x's). I have the Lepai LP-168HA amp ( https://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO ) for my speakers and have that connected to another sub woofer amp. I was wondering if there was a cord that would go from the speaker out that the amp has to an female aux cord. If more details are needed. Ask away, can also provide pictures if need be. Thanks!

u/cokefriend · 1 pointr/audiophile

No idea what you just asked me to do lmao.
I take the subwoofer audio out that's supposed to go into the computer and plug in splitters instead of a cable?
What do I do with the cable? How do I use that with an amp? :S
EDIT: Using this amp btw, http://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO

u/Aspirant_Fool · 1 pointr/techsupport

What are you going to be connecting them to? A PC? TV?

You definitely need an amplifier/receiver, but what kind of equipment you use will depend on the audio outputs available on the device you'll be connecting them to. These are probably about the cheapest amplifiers that will support two speakers and a subwoofer, and they work well as long as you don't crank the volume up past 70-80%, but you'll need to be able to provide the audio signal through either a 3.5mm TRS (headphone) plug, or red and white RCA plugs. If you want audio from an HDMI source, you'll have to spend more (probably ~$100 minimum) for an AV receiver.

u/Dimmed_skyline · 1 pointr/diyaudio

Several options.

You can buy a regular stereo amplifier and a subwoofer plate amplifier. Most sub plate amps have high frequency pass-thoughts so you put it between the stereo and the speakers to extract the lows.

You can buy a 2.1 plate amp. This way you can skip the amp on your desk for a cleaner look. They tend to be much more expensive for the wattage though.

Or if you want to try something more DIY you can try a 2.1 desk amp. Just pick the transformer/ power supply, a box, knobs, power and audio plugs. 1 2

You can also just buy premade 2.1 desk amps but I can't speak for the quality of chinese made amps. 1 2 3

I suggest just buying the Lepai LP-168HA

u/dcoolidge · 1 pointr/diysound

Honestly I would build a passive sub to go along with those OSs. Also I would go with a cheap amp like https://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO

You can always upgrade later...

u/BuddhaTherapy · 1 pointr/AverageJoeAudiophile

I'm getting ready to order a set of Micca MB42x and for the sake of future proofing for a sub was planning on using this amp. Most of these subs appear to be powered though, what does the setup look like when using powered and non powered components? Would I set the speakers up as usual then set up the sub separately?

u/MrBirchum · 1 pointr/audiophile

How about this one? Looks like it's 40w x 2.

http://www.amazon.ca/Lepai-2x40W-Amplifier-1x68W-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=sr_1_12?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1417038573&sr=1-12&keywords=amplifier

I'm hoping to spend absolutely as little as possible to get the speakers working.

u/ApolloFett · 1 pointr/oculus

Wow thanks for the quick reply much appreciated! Yeah Elite is one of the main reasons for getting this. I already have a DK2 and HOTAS so this is kind of the cherry on top for immersion lol. I don't know a whole lot about sound but I am above average with computers and quite handy with tools so I'm sure I will get it all going nicely. Thanks again for your advice I think it has pointed me in the right direction. A couple more questions though;

How important is the crossover? I'm looking at this one here http://www.amazon.ca/Lepai-2x40W-Amplifier-1x68W-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417740400&sr=8-1&keywords=Lepai+LP-168HA it's a little more but has a built in crossover, and some extra power, worth it?

My soundcard driver panel has an LFE crossover frequency thing outlined here http://www.manualslib.com/manual/414988/Asus-Xonar-Dsx.html?page=40 maybe this is enough and I don't need to spend the extra money on the other amp? Not that the few extra bucks will make or break it for me. Thoughts?

I have the Xonar DGX soundcard and I only use Headphones if that makes any difference in what to get or how to set it up.

u/A3rik · 1 pointr/PSVR

Those are pretty cool, but fairly expensive. For seated experiences, a decent bass shaker and amp can be installed into most chairs for around $100.

This is everything I bought for my setup, and it's great for Driveclub, Eve, and Rigs:


Lepai LP-168HA 2.1 2 x 40-Watt Amplifier and 1x68W Sub Output https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_p2hvyb1DQKT6T

AuraSound AST-2B-4 Pro Bass Shaker Tactile Transducer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ZPTBI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Z2hvybK1X2MTF

Pyle PSC1250 12-Gauge, 50 feet Spool of High Quality Speaker Zip Wire https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ZX8N44/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_G3hvyb889SGZP

Belkin Speaker and Headphone Splitter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000067RC4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_b4hvybN63W7CQ

StarTech.com MU15MMS 15 feet Slim 3.5mm Stereo Audio Cable - M/M https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004G3WCNK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_z4hvyb7PS049X

u/thinman · 1 pointr/diyaudio

T-amp is the way to go, as others have said.

This one seems ideal https://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1478008165&sr=8-4&keywords=lepai

You connect the two bottom black connectors and the two bottom red ones to create a "68w" mono sub output and it has the crossover control in the front. It's far more powerful than you need but it's small, stealthy, and I don't see how you would beat the price for amp+crossover.

u/beaub05 · 1 pointr/htpc

This was what I was running before I purchased a receiver: LP2020A+ Amp and Dayton Audio B652

This is only 2.0, but it sounded great and it was less than $100.

You would most likely need something like this if you plan on getting a passive subwoofer, or this if you plan on running a powered subwoofer.

I highly recommend anyone new to home audio head over to /r/zeos and then /r/hometheater

u/Smack_Damage · 1 pointr/hometheater

Cool, so it's nice that you have both types of input. The "line in" jack and the four coax guys can be used independently. Therefore if you liked the small amp form factor you could get something like this, or go scrounge a thrift store for a larger unit.

u/sanchostache · 1 pointr/audiophile

I was in the market for a new computer speaker setup, and rather than go with a pre-built kit like the ProMedia 2.1 I decided to buy piece by piece.

I picked up a pair of the Micca MB42X's and this amp.

My question is... 1)How's the amp I picked and 2) How will it sound without a subwoofer? I plan on buying one but wanted to wait until I have more funds.

Also if anyone can recommend a decent lower priced sub to go with this I would really appreciate it!

u/saint_jude · 1 pointr/EliteDangerous

What information are you looking for? I run four of these hooked up to this. I'm getting ready to hit the sack but if you can provide me with specific questions I can try my best to answer in the morning!

u/jdvbelle · 1 pointr/oculus

You need an amplifier. I use an Aura bass shaker with a cheap amplifier. Just match the watt ratings approximately.

Edit: also look at Voicemeeter if you want to duplicate an audio signal to two different outputs.

u/MichaelFR85 · 1 pointr/oculus

This setup is amazingly cheap ($80 to $90) and powerful...

http://amzn.com/B0002ZPTBI

http://amzn.com/B0070Z87YO

http://amzn.com/B003TUMDWG

All it takes is one to make a huge difference. Great with headphones on.

u/ricketycricket44 · 1 pointr/WRX

Where I found the stereo lacked in my 12 WRX hatch, was the bass.
I put a 12 inch Rockford Fosgate in the trunk, and let the speakers only run mids and highs. It has improved the stereos sound greatly and didn't break the bank too badly.

u/Doctor_Pujoles · 1 pointr/GolfGTI

The only thing I don't "like" about my MKVII is that it didn't come with a sub. How was your experience? Did you do it yourself or have a shop do it? What sub unit did you put in? I'm 99.9% sold on This one
but I was going to have a local car audio place install it because I hate the idea of screwing something up or having loose, rattling panels (from being removed and reinstalled) in my brand new car.

u/xTHANATOPSISX · 1 pointr/CarAV

https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P300-12-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B007AQ2W6W/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1518320964&sr=1-1&keywords=rockford+powered+sub

https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B0058OENJ2/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1518321247&sr=8-13&keywords=ofc+amp+kit

There isn't a better deal. Dead serious. For what you want to spend, that's as close as I see anything worth owning. The amp kit isn't a fire hazard and the sub/amp is complete shit. It's not amazing, but at least you have an amp, sub and box that are going to work together for under $200 and you can add a few extra bucks to get an amp kit that won't burn your car to the ground or corrode into dust in 6 months.

Both items should have a warranty since the sub is "Sold by and ships from Amazon" and, well, an amp kit shouldn't need a warranty anyway but it's sold by Knu via Amazon so it's as legit as buying from them. Which you could probably do for the same price since it's not eligible for Prime anyway and therefore you can cut out the "middle man" as it were and let Knu keep more of the money.

Might even been enough speaker wire in the kit to use to hook up the high level inputs on the powered sub without buying anything extra and you'll have the RCA interconnects for later if you ever buy an aftermarket head unit or end up using/needing an active line output converter or integration device.

u/Kaoru_Mira · 1 pointr/audiophile



What do I need to buy to make this subwoofer work with my mixer?

https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P300-12-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B007AQ2W6W/ref=sr_1_1?qid=1563244767&refinements=p_89%3ARockford%2BFosgate&s=car&sr=1-1&th=1

I own this already but it's in my car & I might be able to salvage the cables used I don't think that's all I'll need?

edit: I see that it has an amp built in so I've got that covered but I still need a way to power it.

edit 2: I successfully removed all the cables from my car (what a fucking task that was). So I've got all that.

u/m00nyoze · 1 pointr/CarAV

I ordered a P300 by Rockford Fosgate about a year ago. It's a powered enclosure and not a separate amp + subwoofer.

I had it installed at a local Radio Active and they tapped into the factory amp. It hits well enough honestly. I find I don't need a crazy amount of bass for small hatchbacks. I probably should have mounted it to the side because it does take up quite a bit of trunk space.

u/lpbman · 1 pointr/BuildaCarAVForMe

Amp

Sub

Box

You won't need a high level converter with this amp, but you will need a nice install kit

The sub and box go together, so I ignored "must come in box" because either you're installing yourself and you can put screws in wood, or you are taking it to an install shop who can do it for you.

If that is somehow really beyond your abilities, something like this will work. (still need a dedicated amplifier)


u/Mortifer · 1 pointr/subaru

If you are considering the OEM Kicker setup, I'd look at the Rockford Fosgate P300-12 Punch 300 Watt instead.

u/MrNiceGaius · 1 pointr/f150
u/BicksDurgers · 1 pointr/BuildaCarAVForMe

Will do! :) when you say P1, are you referring to this combo: Rockford Fosgate P300-12 Punch 300 Watt Powered Loaded 12-Inch Subwoofer Enclosure by Rockford Fosgate http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007AQ2W6W/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_Hzy2tb07YN0CV


Or this: Rockford Fosgate P1-2X12 500 Watts Dual Rms Subwoofer Enclosure by Rockford Fosgate http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004V9GR62/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_1Ay2tb1KTZ020 because I don't think that would fit in my car... Hahaha

u/Tjoala · 1 pointr/civic

Yes, everything still applies. I did not cover power and ground installation of the actual amp wiring kit, just the proper way to get your audip signal to your amp an sub. I'm using a powered subwoofer as well, a Rockford Fosgate P300-12.

While not necessary, its always s good practive to run your amps main power line from the battery down one side of the car, and the audio signal from your radio down the other side. This helps to eliminate the possibility of introducing DC frequency noise into your audio signal.

Rockford Fosgate P300-12 Punch 300 Watt Powered Loaded 12-Inch Subwoofer Enclosure

u/swagfishie · 1 pointr/CarAV

So if I purchased it on Amazon do they normally come with everything needed to install it? Or do they just normally assume that you have all of the wires/adapters already?

u/firebirdude · 1 pointr/CarAV

100 has Android Auto AND Apple CarPlay. Also has a 6.4" screen versus 6.2". The 1000 can have Sat Radio added. The 100 cannot. If you've got an iPhone and want the USB up front, then go for the 1000.

And even though your budget doesn't include the head unit, I'd still recommend that Key amplifier. Start with that. Head unit and amp. See how you like it. If you decide you want more bass after that, we can talk amp and sub. Maybe something like this?

u/alex8155 · 1 pointr/CarAV

youll need around $100 for install so youre looking more at around $200 for the rest.

check Craigslist first and see if you can find a sub and amp. check the sidebar for recommended brands and stay away from cheap stuff like Boss, Pyramid, Pyle, Rockville etc..

another option is to buy sub+amp sets. like this Rockford Fosgate. something like this wont rattle the block but itll sound good in your car.

u/btomhat · 1 pointr/Trucks

i have this sub in a 98 extended cab. takes up quite a bit of space. i can post pictures if you would like.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007AQ2W6W/ref=twister_B00A8F4TAY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

u/freebeertomorrow · 1 pointr/mazda

Do you not have the phone slot in the middle arm rest to stick your phone?

As for the sound system, I added a 12" powered Rockford Fostgate sub and it's night and day. Cost around $200 total and it sounds waaaaay better and has a quick release harness to easily pop the box out if I want the trunk room back.

u/Kuiiper · 1 pointr/SubaruForester

I won't ever go back to not having an amp and sub. It really adds so much depth that the stock stereo lacked. It really makes everything sound better, podcasts, country, EDM.

This is the sub I bought.

I've never had a sub in my car, but I never knew what I was missing either. If you can afford the trunk space and like your music loud, I recommend it.

u/Xoulin · 1 pointr/Miata

Thanks for all the responses guys. Definitely loving this subreddit, great community to be a part of. So I decided on a two-way speaker set up with a sub/amp enclosure for the trunk, and eventually in place of the soft top with a little fabrication. Speakers, sub, plus some speaker baffles and 8 gauge wire kit for the sub. I'll make sure to post a follow up, once everything's fine tuned.
edit - words

u/hemi15 · 1 pointr/CarAV

I decided to go with these speakers and this sub

u/DoobCruise · 1 pointr/fpv

Hmm, what about http://www.amazon.com/RearView-Headrest-Monitor-Support-Rotating/dp/B007SLDF7O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404768541&sr=8-1&keywords=fpv+monitor ?

I actually found that Boscam I linked to earlier on Amazon for a little cheaper and it comes with free 2 day shipping. I try to avoid HobbyKing when I can find an alternative. I mainly just search HobbyKing for reviews and discussion on products I can find elsewhere.

Would that monitor be okay? I see it has the required AV inputs, though my confusion would be powering it. I still haven't looked into it a whole lot yet, because I'm on break at work right now and about to go back in but will read up more later.

The whole laptop idea seemed simpler to me, though I did not take into account issues when streaming. My main goal was to just have an easy, portable, battery powered 'monitor' to haul with me.

u/wjdp · 1 pointr/techtheatre

We've just installed a system with a monochrome CCTV camera (£10) from eBay, lots of coax and a load of £25 7'' monitors (http://www.amazon.co.uk/ePathChina%C2%AE-Camera-Monitor-Support-Rotating/dp/B007SLDF7O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396316279&sr=8-1&keywords=tft+colour+monitor) and a big TV for the green room.

Worked out very cheap and is a lot easier to 'make work' than an IP camera system for the less technical types.

u/redhotsedative · 1 pointr/djiphantom

not really, the built in FPV on the vision is crap, and the camera isn't that great, you made the right choice setting up your own rig and getting a go pro that you can actually use without your phantom. this is the monitor and i have it wired up to this battery pack. I spent about 170 total and have 3x the range and better quality than a vision or vision+

u/scootey · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

You'll want to look for a low-cost/low-spec 7" LCD TV, although sometimes it may be a 7" video display with no TV tuner. If you're in the US, this one on Amazon looks similar/identical to the one OP has for $26.20. It has a mounting/rotating assembly intended for car installation, although it looks like it should be able to stand on its own (similar to OP's photo).

Keep in mind that these are also low-res too, and you'll have to use the composite output of the Raspberry Pi for video. If you want sound, that might be possible too by connecting a 3.5mm to RCA jack cable to the Pi's headphone connector. Some of these have batteries too, although the one I linked to designed for car use may not. If it does have a battery and TV tuner though, it might also be useful as a battery-powered "emergency TV".

I have one of these that I bought on clearance for around US$25 a few years ago (from CVS of all places) sitting around. Previously I've given thought to using in a Pi project, but this post gave me a little bit of inspiration to give it a shot. Thanks OP!

u/ezeeetm · 1 pointr/multicopterbuilds

[Unformatted Example Response Post]

u/smoothtalker · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

Here is the screen I used. You can draw your own conclusions. Hehe

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007SLDF7O/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/Faneofnewhope · 1 pointr/techsupportmacgyver

It's a 7 inch. This is the actual monitor
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007SLDF7O?vs=1

u/backwoods_neckbeard · 1 pointr/Multicopter

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007SLDF7O?colid=3FIAXDQH9G26G&coliid=I18XOHTC9I1ZOL&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl

this is a decent screen for 25 bucks. if you want to order from china you can get it for under 20.

u/RoboKAOS · 1 pointr/Audi

2010 S5 with the 4.2 V8 and a six speed manual here.

Drivetrain wise, this has been the most reliable car I’ve ever owned. No issues with the engine/transmission. There is a lot of chatter out there online regarding carbon build up since it’s a direct injection engine, but I’ve never had a cleaning done (and I’ve asked my dealer multiple times if they felt I should get it done; bought the car with 28k miles on it in 2014, and it’s at 73k now). I feel like if I hold onto it for much longer I may force the issue with the dealer.

Can’t speak to the oil filter, I’ve always had shops do mine.

The only recurring problem I’ve had is the sunroof drains in the A pillars. Over 4 years of ownership, I’ve had both the driver and passenger side drain go wonky and cause leakage into the cabin. The repairs were sizable, since they had to take apart the sunroof due to it being non retractable (~$700 each time, mostly labor).

Realistically I think I’m averaging somewhere around 18/19 with mixed driving.

The V8 model natively supports Bluetooth calls, but if you want Bluetooth music, you can get one of these adapters and plug it into the MMI jack. Works pretty flawlessly. https://www.amazon.com/Bovee-Wireless-Bluetooth-Interface-Integration/dp/B00B52LLJ6

u/i_dont_love_reddit · 1 pointr/Porsche

I got a 30 pin stereo Bluetooth adapter to use on the iPod interface, works like a boss. No issues being paired to this and the car at the same time.

Bovee 1000 Wireless Bluetooth Music Interface Adapter for in Car iPod Integration

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B52LLJ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qH8QybM30SGZT

u/BruceInc · 1 pointr/mercedes_benz

Yea you can skip songs, play/pause, and control volume from steering wheel and dash buttons.

If you already have the media cable then this (or something like it) is what you need

Bovee 1000 Wireless Bluetooth Music Interface Adapter for in Car iPod Integration https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B52LLJ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Rer0Bb6WP6BTA


If you don’t have the media cable, something like this will probably be better since the cable is like $150 from the dealership (if I remember correctly)

Bovee Bluetooth Car Kit for AUDI, VW, MB - Music Interface Adaptor for in car iPod Integration (WMA3000A AMI/MDI/MMI connector) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R2HZ1XU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uir0BbQ4F6KBT


Before you buy anything make sure you have the media port. Mine was located in the glove compartment on the left side.

u/skylinrcr01 · 1 pointr/Audi

I feel you man. I have the 3.2, I guess the exhaust systems for our cars are the same. Remus makes one, it sounds good, but $1200 for a couple mufflers and some tubing seems ridiculous. AMI is easyish. I did a bit of research, and it yeilded me this site. http://a6retrofit.com/ami-retrofit-audi-music-interface/

There is also this thing, which makes it possible to stream bluetooth to the AMI through A2DP, which is a minimal loss digital format. IE: no need for an iPhone or iPod to use AMI.
http://www.amazon.com/ViseeO-WMA1000-Tune2air/dp/B00B52LLJ6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412749229&sr=8-1&keywords=tune2air

Aesteticly you can get a RS6 grille, I've heard mixed things about the ebay ones, but I think I'm going to give one a shot anyways, they are 1/4 the cost of a legit one, and if it fits horrible, I'll just go back to stock. http://www.ebay.com/itm/111419751154?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

There are VCDS mods too, and other tweaks.

u/mguchi · 1 pointr/Audi

I use this with my AMI cable on my Audi 2009 B8 A4 that might work for you. Spotify works and my phone are both connected at the same time.

ViseeO Tune2air WMA1000 by ViseeO


http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B52LLJ6/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_-Totub10HQVTW

u/emceegull · 1 pointr/Audi

This is what you want. You can be paired to the audi's bluetooth for phone audio and contact sharing and paired to this device for media audio at the same time. It won't show the track names for android, but it will appear as a media source, and you will be able to play your music through it and go fwd and backward with tracks. As for charging your phone, just use a regular usb charger in the console, then you don't have to mess with the glove box. I hope this helps.

u/Lifeonthejames · 1 pointr/CarAV

I used this product Tune2Air (link below) to add bluetooth streaming to my OEM Audi RNS-e head unit. It works great, and sounds way bettter than normal bluetooth streaming. Hope this helps

http://www.amazon.com/ViseeO-Tune2air-WMA1000-Bluetooth-Integration/dp/B00B52LLJ6

u/G35 · 1 pointr/Porsche

Yeah, I hear you. I'm considering this.

Can you share which one you went with?

Right, the Nav is $650 USD all by itself.

u/frenchcece · 1 pointr/Audi

ViseeO Tune2air
This is what you are looking for. There are probably other devices out there that are similar to this one.

u/ramon13 · 1 pointr/Audi

>Get one of these. I use it in my 2011 S4 all the time.
>
>https://www.amazon.com/Bovee-Wireless-Bluetooth-Interface-Integration/dp/B00B52LLJ6

Hey so I am finally looking at this since my SiriusXM is expired now. Does it support android stuff because I despise apple and it just says iPhones and iPods.

u/SquidlyStopa · 1 pointr/BMW

I actually had this one originally:

https://www.amazon.com/Bovee-Wireless-Bluetooth-Interface-Integration/dp/B00B52LLJ6

and that was great because it hooked straight into the iphone connector in my Audi but since the BMW is looking for a usb and aux cord I had to buy a cord to adapt it (https://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Audio-30pin-Cable-Iphone/dp/B00490OVM0).

I would go with the wma3000b as it's all ready to go without the adapters.

This works incredibly well. Sound quality is absolutely perfect. Sounds like it is coming from a wired connection not bluetooth to aux.

u/Dmencha · 1 pointr/BMW

If your car came with the 30-pin iPod connection, you can just buy this adapter and be able to listen to music from your phone via Bluetooth. I have it in my E90 and it works great.

http://www.amazon.com/ViseeO-Tune2air-WMA1000-Bluetooth-Integration/dp/B00B52LLJ6

u/iprepteeth · 1 pointr/Audi

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B52LLJ6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This works pretty well. Used it in my A4 for 3 years with very few issues.

u/migle75 · 1 pointr/jailbreak

Look up tune2air I use it and I love it! Its made specifically for the audi mmi

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B52LLJ6?pc_redir=1395693363&robot_redir=1

u/drumfunky · 1 pointr/VictoryMotorcycles

I have had this bluetooth transmitter plugged into my saddlebag 30-pin for two years on my XC, and it works perfectly with my previous iPhone 6 and now my iPhone 7+
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B52LLJ6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/jayhay · 1 pointr/Audi

I am picking up my first Audi (2008 S5) tomorrow and would also like to know if Tune2Air is working with iOS 8.2.

Some are saying it works, others not...

u/AV1978 · 1 pointr/phoenix

I use the Falcon F360. Dual 1080P Cameras, decent night vision, easy to setup and use, and supports up to a 64GB memory card. Mounts on the mirror, and has a long power cable so it can be hidden.

I've had them in both my vehicles for 2 summers now and they are still going strong.

https://www.amazon.com/Falcon-Zero-F360-HD-Mirror/dp/B00E56WY18

u/thatundra · 1 pointr/uberdrivers

Does anyone have any experience with the Vantrue N2?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073WQ7K6C?psc=1

I'm looking at getting rid of my current dash cam the Falcon Zero 360 because it is a giant piece of shit. Whatever you do, stay away from this model or the other copycat crappy Chinese models, from what i found this is sold under a bunch of different names with the same hardware.https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E56WY18/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/JSnow789 · 1 pointr/uberdrivers

I have this one, Two swivel cams, one can see in the cab, the other the front of the vehicle. Super easy to install. Highly recommend. Be warned though that the instructions are very difficult to understand (unless you read Chinese or Russian).

http://www.amazon.com/Incredisonic-F-360-Accident-Recorder-Dual-Camera/dp/B00E56WY18/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1418605891&sr=1-4&keywords=dash+cam

u/qdp · 1 pointr/Seattle

http://www.amazon.com/Falcon-Zero-F360-HD-Mirror/dp/B00E56WY18/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1450243941&sr=8-2&keywords=rear+view+dash+cam

It is a little pricier than when I bought it, but there are similar models by different brands out there.

u/TheMechagodzilla · 1 pointr/videos

So recordings from something like this can be converted to a 360° video?

u/bibkel · 1 pointr/IdiotsInCars

Amazon. I got one that slips over my rear view mirror and shows inside the cab (I have it pointed at the center and half of the passenger seat, as well as the front of my car.

I love it! Had to get a different memory card, the one it came with didn’t work. Bought in August 2016, still works. I drive Uber sometimes and I don’t want to take chances.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E56WY18/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/nomadgirl · 1 pointr/Dashcam

Yeah I need to test it out and also take it out of the car when I am not using it since its been horribly hot here.

I do IT for a living so I know my toys. We will see when I get it how well it works.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E56WY18/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/rico_suave3000 · 1 pointr/uberdrivers
u/PolkovnikPappit · 1 pointr/videos

I have this one.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E56WY18/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Except it is of a previous Gen. The rearview doesnt work as well as you would think for my car during the daytime. Too much sun wont allow for viewing outside of the car.

u/_dubs · 1 pointr/CFBOffTopic

I got this on sale for $100.

It's ok, but I know there are some much, much better ones out there. The cameras aren't very high quality and the rear facing camera is pretty much useless for seeing things outside of the car

u/dubsdcarson · 1 pointr/CFBOffTopic

I actually just bought one off amazon for like $120.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E56WY18/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just got it a few days ago but haven't tried it out yet

u/Plavonica · 1 pointr/videos
u/Hero-Requests · 1 pointr/Dashcam

This one correct?

https://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-G1W-H-Hidden-Dashboard/dp/B00HMNFWYW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468100490&sr=8-1&keywords=g1w-h

I have 2 of these and none experiencing the focus problem. Everything is clear as day. Might need to contact them for warranty or exchange it from your vendor.

u/Youshotahostage · 1 pointr/cars

I know the differences, but what's the major benefit? Just that a capacitor holds a charge more efficiently than a battery over time?

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-G1W-H-Hidden-Dashboard/dp/B00HMNFWYW/ref=pd_cp_e_1

I'm not overly familiar with tech stuff like this, but that seems like a steal for inertial recording and night vision.

u/PopSmokeAndGTFO · 1 pointr/Dashcam

I've only had mine for a few weeks, but I love it so far. I purchased mine as an upgrade from a [G1W] (www.amazon.com/dp/B00HMNFWYW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3CWQyb06CKB1G) I had before. I'm not too knowledgeable on specs and whatnot, But I wanted something reliable that wouldn't break the bank. The reviews were good, the price was right and it serves my purpose perfectly. I hardwired mine and it sits up and out of the way but within arms reach if I need to snap a picture for any reason. [Here] (http://imgur.com/q2iV9n2) it is if you're interested. I can also upload couple of clips when I get home if you'd like. Cheers!!

u/boathole · 1 pointr/legaladvice

G1W-H. (Harder to spot from outside the car).

u/flyingwolf · 1 pointr/videos

It was a cheap 50 dollar one from Amazon.

I just tossed a cheap 32 gig SD card in it. It sits behind my mirror, is always on and has worked perfectly.