Best car finishing products according to redditors
We found 193 Reddit comments discussing the best car finishing products. We ranked the 84 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 193 Reddit comments discussing the best car finishing products. We ranked the 84 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Buy a roll of 3M paint protector film and cut your own.
http://www.amazon.com/Scotchgard-84906-Urethane-Protection-Length/dp/B000PF1PFO
Oh wait, buying quality film uncut in bulk isn't significantly cheaper than a ready-made one? Shit.
Three coats of clear coat.
Try this stuff, it's meant for jewelry and dries completely clear. It is a bit pricey but it does last a long time with lots of handling. I've used it on a steel water bottle, so something I was touching and stuff constantly, and it's been a couple years with minimal peeling.
Auto parts store would have it. I got mine from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Evapo-Rust-Original-contains-non-toxic-biodegradable/dp/B00M0TLQ66/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537385553&sr=8-3&keywords=rust+remover
Evapo-Rust is really good too. I found an entire cart of Snap-On tools in a warehouse I moved into. Evapo-Rust did an unbelievable job.
Hey I posted this on /r/ak47 but I just wanted to double check here - did I screw up my heat treating? I heated to 1600F->quenched->750F->aircooled. 2 out of 3 responses seem to be saying I did it right, but I could have sworn I read it was 1600F->aircool->750F->quench on Calguns. . .
And if I messed it up: what should my next steps be? Leave it be? Kasenit? Redo?
Also, if I get one of those home parkerization kits do I have to media blast or can I get away with sandpaper/dremel for prep? Here's what I'm looking at using: http://www.amazon.com/OSPHOQ-OSPHO-METAL-TREATMENT-QUART/dp/B000C02CDG
I just embarked on this journey and I'm having a great time.
With the help of some members of this sub, I purchased 5 planes on eBay -- 2 Stanley #4's (both Type 13), 2 Stanley #5's (Type 9 Record and Type 17), and a Keen Kutter 4. I then asked a bunch of questions here and did a bunch of research on plane hunting and restoration. Special thanks to /u/abnormal_human and /u/Graphus for their comprehensive and helpful answers. Once they are all complete, I plan to use them all a bit and then pick two to keep and resell the rest.
Some sites that helped me a bunch were:
http://www.hyperkitten.com/tools/stanley_bench_plane/start_flowchart.php (Dating & Typing)
http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan2.htm (Basic Info -- Numbering and such)
And here are some video's that carried me through the process in a playlist I made: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLi-n7reKpXtVQzwcksAUsVg8wbeLRrH2u (pay special attention to WOmadeOD's video. It's 2 hours and the entire process.)
And here's a set just for sharpening: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLi-n7reKpXtVbQcKXTppUb8vpS6Eal11h
Some important tools and materials are:
I decided not to refinish the wooden bits on the planes and instead just clean them up because I wanted to keep some of the age look to the planes. I re-painted the beds and sides of the frogs if the plane's original color was black and it was in poor condition.
I had planned to fill in all the albums with descriptions and make a post sometime this week when I am completely done but I might as well share what I have now.
The cleaning, derusting, and painting are done and I've completely finished all the planes. I've started on another set of 10 planes now. I'll group them all and make a post directly to the subreddit once they're all 100% complete.
Albums
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For some tips on picking a used plane, /u/abnormal_human told me:
> Generally, the most desirable "types" for stanley bench planes are 11-15, but I wouldn't have an issue with a nice 9 or 10.
> Looking at the timeline[1] again, it's type 12-15 that I like.
> Type 9 is when the better frog/body interface shows up, which makes it easier to adjust the frog. I'm not interested in anything earlier than this.
> Type 12, you get a bigger brass adjustment wheel, which I like.
> Type 16 was the beginning of the end--the ogee shaped frog + the kidney shaped hole in the lever cap appears at this point. This is when I tune out.
> That's not to say that you have to be this picky. There are lots of usable planes outside of what I'm looking for. > There's just so many moderately priced planes out there that it's easy to pick+choose and get what you want if you pay attention to the details.
> ... the dating chart works pretty well for the common bench planes (#3-8).
It is common for plane restorers to purchase a replacement blade, sharpen and use it, and keep the original in a safe place for collect-ability. For replacement blades as per /u/scewikea:
> This is the answer I got when I asked before -- a few people around here swear that the Woodriver blades are really good.
Here is a quick run-down of the restoration steps I took. I plan to embellish and elaborate more on them when everything is 100% complete in a full post to this subreddit:
Now, I have a set of 9 more planes -- a Dunlap #5, another Stanley #4 Type 19, an unbranded #4, and 4 Stanley Block planes (110, 2 x 220, 9 1/2, and an unmarked baby one), and a Sears block plane -- that I'm in the middle of restoring. After they're done, I have a nice Stanley #7 Type 13 Sweet Heart waiting to begin the restore. It's a great facet of this hobby!
--------------------------------------------
I'd be glad to share anything I've learned and answer any questions I can. If you wanna shoot me a PM, we can chat on gchat?
Sure! It's ProtectaClear. I've coated about 50 pieces of jewelry and haven't used a 3rd of the bottle, so it will last forever. I even paint earring backs that normally irritate me! But pay attention to the directions, particularly the ones about opening it, because it ain't easy.
ProtectaClear 4 Oz. Clear,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0186N6ZVK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
EVERYONE - get your rocker panels clear wrapped. I had that done and my rocker panels look perfect. You can do it yourself with this: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004VG8DS0/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_6?smid=A10111992WJRYRFBZH9IS&psc=1
I didn't believe this exists, yet it does.
https://www.amazon.com/VHT-SP229-Rust-Convertor-Can/product-reviews/B002NUABUO/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_hist_1?ie=UTF8&filterByStar=one_star&reviewerType=all_reviews#reviews-filter-bar
I'm not convinced that any of them are much better than the others, especially with a light application like this. Hand Tool Rescue uses Evapo-Rust and it seems to work pretty well. They make a gel that would probably work well in this application since you can just brush it on the head and not have to soak the wood in the liquid form.
Sure.
Your friend sounds like the kind of guy who appreciates a Mosin Nagant...
You could get a can of
Devil snotcosmoline as a joke. That would qualify as both a "gun care" chemical and be a gag joke all in one. (this is the chemical that the soviets used to preserve their firearms before stockpiling them in crates. It is a bit of a hassle to remove, but does its protectant job very, very well)Cosmoline remover is also good.
You could also get the greatest movie ever made.
If you are the artsy type, you might also do well with a painting depicting "Rifle is fine".
Yes! Got it on Amazon!
Protecta Clear is often used by jewelers to presever patina and protect the metal. That should work. Might take a few attempts to get an even coating, but it dries pretty fast.
I was motivated by the recent thread with the X rated pics of the frame, so this weekend I spent quite a lot of time inspecting the bike everywhere with a flashlight for rust (owned less than 1 year). As someone who leaves a puddle on the floor after a workout, it only made sense that had to leave impact on steel. While Peloton suggests you to wipe down the bike after a ride, the places where most people would clean, such as the large smooth surface areas, may keep the bike looking good but are actually not problem areas. The problem is everywhere you miss--seat bolt and the threads on the frame, connectors, the gap to the shaft on the left pedal, the bolt and opening where the cover on the right meets the frame, underside of frame where the welds are, outer pedal threads, metal screws, etc. For the seat handle, not only were the threads in bad shape, but also I could see rust on the front and back of the handle where it meets the bolt. Basically, the more I looked for rust, the more I found. Left untreated for a few years, I think it would have evolved into bigger problems down the road.
I used Ospho on many of the painted parts and the bolts and let it sit for a day. Getting to some parts required something like a toothpick or a dental tool with the paper towel scrap to scrub. Ospho (HD equivalent here) makes rust inert and preps it for painting, then used a touch up brush and applied some black rustoleum paint to the painted areas. Then I used white lithium grease(spray) to protect all the moving parts and bolts, and even into the seat handle. To protect the underbelly of the frame where the welds are, I'm tempted to apply some stickier grease like Red and Tacky to completely seal those areas from sweat and air after now that the paint has dried, because it is not an area that can be easily and properly cleaned every time. Going forward I'll be looking it over much more frequently.
I hope you have something between the tail section and those bags. Otherwise that pearlescent paint is going be get rekt.
I'd recommend something like this 3M film roll or at least some gaffers tape.
You'll need this.
https://www.amazon.com/Cosmoline-Rust-Prevention-2-lb/dp/B00AA0OL64
I used this.
I got this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004VG8DS0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Enough to do a whole bike and have spare to do repairs to any that rips in the future.
I highly recommend you Use this : Evapo-Rust The Original Super Safe Rust Remover, Water-Based, Non-Toxic, Biodegradable, 1 Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M0TLQ66/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_he9kDbMKZXCMV
It will get to even the deep pitted rust. In my experience this works much better than vinegar. I usually don't even use a wire brush after plates sit in evaporust for an hour or so. Based on how much you have you will probably need 2-3 gallons.
Also definitely paint the crap out of the floorboards and the battery area under the rear seat with this stuff...it’s a lifesaver too: https://www.amazon.com/POR-15-45004-Gloss-black-Preventive/dp/B00H2VVL0S
Amazon.com carries it, although it isn't $8 a can (which I have never seen, it usually retails for around $12-15 a can up here in Canada). That said, I'm another fan of Fluid Film since it stays where it's applied, doesn't drip and it works damn well as a lubricant/rust inhibitor.
You can get pretty much get the same thing by way of helicopter tape but it's not in convenient strips. You'll need to cut helicopter tape yourself but will get a lot more of it - https://amazon.com/Clear-Paint-Protection-Choose-Including/dp/B01LZYSXZJ/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1522603230&sr=8-5&keywords=helicopter+tape
Evapo-Rust is a surprisingly good product. I use it constantly to restore antique tools because it eats rust but won't touch the steel. I've tested that advertising claim on accident by forgetting and leaving stuff in it for weeks at a time. The only caveat I know of comes into play if you forget something that is only partially submerged. If anything happens to cause your exposed steel to rust then the concoction will eat the rust at the water tension line; if it continues rusting it continues to be eaten. I etched a line on a scrape that I left partially exposed in a non-climate-controlled shop with very high humidity; the condensation over a couple days kept up a continuous rust feed. Basically, if it's not fully submerged, just don't forget and leave your blade in for days at a time and I doubt you'll ever see an issue.
A PVC pipe at the right diameter and length, sealed on one end and you could drop your feder blade in and walk away. Come back after a couple of hours and wipe it clean. Deburr if necessary, oil/wax, and you should be done.
If for whatever reason you don't want to use oil or wax they also make a spray-on rust-inhibitor that so far has worked fairly reliably for me.
Good input from everyone! Thanks guys!
This ski is my baby and been with me for a long time, I'd love to keep it that way.
I know most of this is common sense to you guys and some items I already do, but I'm stuck in my ways and don't want to forget.
Just want to make sure I continue treating her right :D
​
Consensus seems to be:
​
- WD40 (inside hull/engine before riding & engine after if large water ingestion)
- Rinse, Rinse, Rinse! (Outside, inside, trailer, car)
- CRC heavy duty corrosion inhibitor (impeller, moving parts, metal that contacts salt water)
- found this Amazon - CRC Corrosion Inhibitor
- Flush (engine water jackets using hose hook up)
Ive noticed some slight rust on suspension arms and such, probably going to spray everything with fluid film, which we use on pretty much everything outside that is metal to protect..
Love this stuff...
https://www.amazon.com/Fluid-Film-11-75-Spray-2-pak/dp/B008T8CXGY
The last time I used a mag mount for long term use I used a piece of this to protect the paint...
Is this what you bought? Does it let you peel them off later with relative ease?
3M Clear Paint Protection Vinyl Film 6" Wide Choose Your Size Including Tools (6" x 25") https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZYSXZJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vKrSAbW36KB4M
I just saw u/insincere_platitudes posted on another thread about a liquid/clear substance made for exactly this issue! Purchased from Amazon - called ProtectaClear & I believe this is the link she used: https://www.amazon.com/ProtectaClear-Clear-Protective-Coating-Metal/dp/B0186N6ZVK
u/insincere_platitudes I hope you don't mind me adding this here! Thank you so much for the fantastic info!😊
Some Evapo-rust would help https://www.amazon.com/Evapo-Rust-Original-contains-non-toxic-biodegradable/dp/B00M0TLQ66 There's a youtube channel that restores stuff like this too. I think I saw it posted on here once sorta recently.
They literally just sprayed bed liner up there, so grab a can of bed liner and go to town.
https://www.amazon.com/U-Pol-Aerosol-Bedliner-Protective-Coating/dp/B07DGVMWS9/ref=asc_df_B07DGVMWS9/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241984506923&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5300359775557941366&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9028279&hvtargid=pla-570035565731&psc=1
I use little pieces of 3M Scotchgard film to protect my frames from cable rub around the head tube. You can find it in larger or smaller quantities and cut to size. You can buy it on Amazon here.
Probably the same but here's the link to exactly what I ordered:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXOPYQ4
This may be a terrible idea, but I was missing 3 out of 4 stickers on my Volt for 2 years without a problem on my commute on the 405. With the stories of the lax enforcement, I thought I'd chance it.
I sandwiched the HOV stickers between red tint and clear 3M PPF. I cut off the large borders and applied them.
you can take it apart and soak parts in evapo rust https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M0TLQ66/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
super easy. after you do that you'll want to clean the surfaces and apply some metal polish to prevent rust from coming back.
I have found applying this product to my irritating earrings to be really effective! I reapply every 10th wear or so. Takes less than 10 seconds to do both posts and then let them dry. Cheap and effective method thus far!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DCU12PG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Btw you should really buy some scotchgard film (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004VG8DS0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and apply it where your rack's hooks and feet will be if you want to keep your car from scratches.
I came across a possibly cool solution for this.
Before installing the stickers, get some clear film like this
https://www.amazon.com/VViViD-Clear-Protection-Choose-Including/dp/B01LZYSXZJ
Apply the sticker to the film, and then trim the film closely around the sticker. Then, apply to the car.
When the time comes to remove it, the film will peel off the car. There may be a theft issue, but someone would have to know that the film was under the sticker.
3M Scotchguard tape. It's the same stuff they use for clear paint protection on cars.
https://www.amazon.com/Scotchgard-84906-Urethane-Protection-Length/dp/B000PF1PFO
I've got some on the underside of my downtube, on my top tube, ect. All the little places I expect impacts, to keep my purty paint and graphics intact.
First, you could scrape that rust off and wire brush it clean. Then coat it with something like this
That will slow the rusting down a bit.
To run the fan constantly throughout the summer won't benefit you the way you think it will. A ceiling fan or a box fan will give you better results without costing as much money and without shortening the life of your heating system.
If you want to run the fan periodically throughout the summer, I wouldn't jump the terminals, I would upgrade your thermostat to a programmable one and run a new wire to your board. The thermostat I have now will run the fan for 4 minutes every hour the system isn't on. I do this to help keep the air in my house clean since I have a hepa filter.
Plus the fact that you can see some significant savings with a programmable thermostat. I ended up getting a WIFI connected one with an app so I can turn the system on/off from anyplace with my phone. So if we are out over night I can have the system off and turn it off as we are heading back to the house.
How interested would you be in fixing this yourself? With a few tools and a little elbow grease you could stop the progression of the rust relatively cheaply. If the metal is not too far gone I'd say it could be "fixed" for under $100. By fixed I am referring to stopping the rust from getting worse. So long as the rusted area is not structural, and by your description it is not, as long as there are no holes you are fine to just stop the rust from getting worse. I'd say if you've got access to a few tools, remove the rust and ask a shop to look and see if it should be good to use a rust preventative paint/coating.
As far as repairing the metal itself, the only real fix is to cut it out and weld new metal back on. Which is considerably more expensive, though if you do some of it yourself you could save quite a bit of the cost.
If you just wanted to stop the progression of the rust, use an angle grinder with one of [these] (https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW4910-8-Inch-11-Knotted-020-Inch/dp/B00004RHAL/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469088859&sr=8-1&keywords=wire+cup+brush) to remove all the rust and bring it to bare metal. Then get some [por 15] (https://www.amazon.com/POR-15-45004-Gloss-black-Preventive/dp/B00H2VVL0S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469088930&sr=8-1&keywords=por+15) and coat the area well. This should be sufficient to stop the rust from spreading. If you went this route I would advise doing dome research and just using this over any accessible rust prone areas you can find, though that would just be extra insurance.
I highly recommend an electronic torque wrench.
The mechanical ones are very inaccurate at the bottom end of range. Head bolts are often at the bottom or below what they can even be set to.
I use this one and it works amazingly well. It can accurately go down to 3ftlb. You can set the desired torque and it has a beep alarm as you approach, reach, and go over the threshold. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004VYUKTC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I also recommend flying with a very basic set of tools. I fly with some hex keys and wrench that fits all the sizes on my paramator. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F512F74/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Siphon is nice to get fuel out of paramotor. This one works amazingly for me. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CKW15ZS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Radio chest harness. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007HJKSG8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I added a draw cord to attach my phone to. Phone then tucks into the velcro pocket and is secured by one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H4E9Z6O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It's powerful enough to draw in a medium weight phone.
Hook knife: https://superflyinc.com/products/jack-the-ripper-hook-knife
Power floats: https://glidersports.com/shop/powerfloat-2bsure/
Waste flotation: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013RLI9XS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Cut prop tape strips out of this: https://www.amazon.com/Scotchgard-Clear-Paint-Protection-60-inches/dp/B004VG8DS0/ref=sr_1_9?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1534535837&sr=1-9&keywords=3m+scotchgard
RTV silicon to put on exhaust springs to reduce vibration fatigue: https://www.amazon.com/Rutland-500%C2%B0RTV-High-Silicone-Black/dp/B000H5Y6CQ/ref=sr_1_5?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1534352404&sr=1-5&keywords=heat+resistant+silicon+rtv
Motor tachometer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GTP6ORC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Radio: I recommend the FT60 or FT65. The 60 model is tried and true and can also be modded to RX aviation band. FT65 has newer display and is cheaper having been made in China.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0768LCCQ1/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_02MIDbN70HMV5
Not black, but clear. I installed these with no issues and have been great.
Thank you so much for your detailed review!! Tbh the Boy bag has never been on my radar due to the dimension width but after seeing your pictures, I realized there are more ways to wear it than just the shoulder. It looks amazing on you! I'm really loving the matte gold hardware with black and chevron <3 Now I want a GF Boy bag; my wallet does not thank you hahaha.
There's a hardware coating on Amazon called protectaclear I've seen mentioned on this sub you may want to try out (if it's not too late).
Just from lots of reading, use a wire brush or wheel to get rid of as much as you can, then use something like this:
VHT SP229 Rust Convertor Can - 10.25 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002NUABUO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tOk3Bb27VP13R
Hey there beautiful! 🥰
After reading about the hardware on your bag tarnishing, I’ve done a little research and there are some options of putting protection to the hardware so it won’t tarnish, although I don’t know how effective they are 🤷🏼♀️
I’ve found this on amazon:
ProtectaClear 4 Oz. Clear, Protective Coating for Polished Metals, Stainless Steel, Jewelry - Prevent Tarnish & Protect Skin from Allergies https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0186N6ZVK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VmP0CbBKB5YS5
I’m planning on purchasing it and trying it on, so I’ll let you know if it does make a difference.
Awesome review! 🥰
It’s this guy here
I plan to use either a small synthetic paint brush or sponge. Have to do some experimenting first. From what I’ve read it’s hard to screw it up, but you should wait 24 hours after application for it to dry completely. I’ll let you know how it goes!
after you needle gun use Ospho. This stuff converts the rust on cleaned surfaces before you paint.
Works wonders on ships.
Amazon
Tractor supply has it and wall mart if your lucky
You need this to start with:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R74I5UY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_1DPLDbVCB7VHF
> It protects the paintwork
This is the point you need to pursue, not the color change aspect. Ask the adjuster what the companies position is on this stuff on vehicles. The reality is, the color change may be where they draw their line in the sand which could be problematic for you so you need to be talking about this from the standpoint of "paint protection". Also, did you have to do a physical inspection of the vehicle when you insured it? Ask them why there was no pushback at that time. However, none of this would change the handling/performance of the vehicle in any way and should not give them an out for liability purposes with regards to damages to the other party.
I have the OEM rack and applied this clear vinyl to protect the paint:
3M Clear Paint Protection Vinyl Film 6" Wide Choose Your Size Including Tools (6" x 25") https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZYSXZJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_QXpUAbXF2GYHT
It's the perfect width I just cut the length to size. I followed this video and it came out great:
https://youtu.be/INJh3YE2MOs
The stickers have the white boarder. I bought some PPF and used it on the other big sticker in place of the one I had with Clean Cling. Without the white CC backer, it's definitely not as bright white and purple. But it's still ugly. I'm only placing one sticker on right rear.
I highly recommend buying some PPF and doing it that way. You can buy some on Amazon for $10.
I used this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZN1IK9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_OX.SCbC8CTE19
And used the method on this vid: https://youtu.be/O93p0Z9Eo2g
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LZYSXZJ?psc=1&amp;ref=yo_pop_mb_yo_pop_mb_pd_t2
Great idea with the paint protection. I was wondering about how I would eventually peel the sticker off (nightmare with the yellow decals and a Prius a few years back).
I've had at least one person recommend that product to me on this sub. I'll be getting my HOV stickers any day now, so I've been looking hard for useful tools like this.
I personally decided to just use some 3M PPF, though.
Thank you, this is my second choice.3M PPF I submitted my paperwork 1/1 hoping to get the HOV sticker soon.
Please report back how you 3M PPF works.
This product is a soak. I purchased a gallon jug for $21 on [Amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00M0TLQ66/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498429496&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=evapo+rust&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51QNIj5clvL&amp;ref=plSrch) I varied the time of the soak by the amount of rust on the tool. I checked on them periodically and used a brass wire brush on them before, during, and after the soak. The threads run effortlessly.
This is not a way of restoring the paint, but as a preventative measure: I use 3M paint protection film/tape on any part of my bike that I think may be at risk of getting scratches/scuffs. Only downside is if your bike has a dark, matte finish like mine does the film stands out. Though you can use that to your advantage and make subtle decals on your bike! Maybe you already know about this, and I'm not understanding what you mean by chain scratches.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B3IXSMA?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
Tint:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01GQRQ996?psc=1&amp;ref=yo_pop_mb_yo_pop_mb_pd_t2
3M Paint Protection:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LZYSXZJ?psc=1&amp;ref=yo_pop_mb_yo_pop_mb_pd_t2
Use this under the pads. It works amazing.
3M Clear Bra Paint Protection Bulk Film Roll 6-by-48-inches
http://amzn.com/B004VG88MQ
Its not a permanent solution, especially if the jewelry is fondled often, as the oils from skin can wear it away, but I use this product called protectaclear on finished pieces and it works great. It gives the jewelry a nice luster and keeps the copper from turning peoples skin green. On rings i would say it lasts a good 3 months, and on necklaces.. significantly longer, again, if its not something you hold and rub. https://amzn.com/B0186N6ZVK
Beautiful piece BTW
Man, that's awful. Sorry to hear about that.
FWIW, I recently refurbed a Landis 3-in-1 shoe machine and this stuff worked wonders for removing the rust. It's non-corrosive, and seemed to pull off almost all of the rust with very little effort.
On a side note, if you ever have a tool that lives in an rust-prone environment try using a rust converter. It's basically an acid that will change stop oxidation (rust) and turn it black, but allow you to paint without rust bubbling up. I know that's not useful information for a saw but it's something I wish I'd known about earlier so I'm bringing it up.
Also I saw your comment below, it's really tough to polish by hand, but if you have a drill you can get an attachment.
The best protective coating for metal is a product called "ProtectaClear" (https://www.amazon.com/ProtectaClear-Clear-Protective-Coating-Metal/dp/B0186N6ZVK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519139549&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=PROTECTACLEAR) and it's 4 ounces for $24.95. It's extremely durable. The next best thing is probably "PYM II" (https://www.etsy.com/listing/489878343/pym-2-pym-ii-preserve-your-memories-2?ga_order=most_relevant&amp;ga_search_type=all&amp;ga_view_type=gallery&amp;ga_search_query=PYM%20II&amp;ref=sr_gallery-1-1) which is an aerosol, 12 ounces for $25.50. PYM II will protect practically anything and gets fabulous reviews from everybody.
Omg so I partly blame and partly thank your well timed post for my leather care for reps haul just then. As I said, my SO is states side and I’m soo jealous of how much he has available and always make him hoard since we see each other every few months. This is what he just said about it - shoe cleaner/leather wash lol wtf.
Anyway, I stocked up on the Cadillac leather care. It was cheaper than Apple and had more and better reviews. Many of the users said they used for their Chanel handbags and it worked well, even on lighter colours. That sold me.
Off tangent to your post but I also made him pick up this metal coating - my friend swears by it. It keeps all her hardware and jewellery polished and sparkling. Don’t you look at some of your hardware/fashion jewellery after a bit abandonment and think “wtf happened to you??” Anyway, hopefully this will save me from all the $$ wasted throwing those out!
I know this isn’t going to help you being from Canada but when there’s a will there’s a way!
I don't know about the cost of repair to original condition but I do know to stop the rust, but it won't look pretty.
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you need to remove the rust you can either scrub it off with an abrasive(wire brush, sandpaper) or you can use a rust dissolver like rustoleum(Probable will ruin paint so be careful). once all the rust is off you need to clean the area with a non lint forming cloth and apply some kind of barrier so the bare metal does not get oxygen, any kind of outdoors paint works or you can try to find the matching color
What the other side said, I would suggest to get a protective coating for them like you might for costume jewelery that will oxidize on your skin.
Something like this or just clear coat nail polish
https://www.amazon.com/ProtectaClear-Clear-Protective-Coating-Metal/dp/B01DCU12PG?th=1
Could try this;
http://www.amazon.com/VHT-SP229-Rust-Convertor-Can/dp/B002NUABUO
Where are you located btw? I'm silver spring maryland
Also, full disclosure I was going to run some hill and speed tests versus a carbon GT with /u/Mr_Mahal before selling it just because we're both solid riders and he's making comparison videos.
We'd be putting some of this Bra stuff:
https://www.amazon.com/Clear-Paint-Protection-Bulk--25-inches/dp/B00B3IXSMA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467116917&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=clear+bra+3m
On the new and shiny parts of the board stay looking new.
Ideally we would film on Saturday night or potentially thursday night if we can get comfortable with our boards enough to go full speed by then and if weather permits. unfortunate time for rain in this area lol.
Also for the test drive, I'd like you to either bring the $1050 for me to hold and sit there watching/helping you test ride or something like your phone & wallet as collaterall, just so you don't turn out to be a BB pro and ride off into the sunset :P
get an inline fuel filter. most fuel lines are 5mm(3/16"?).
De-rusting a step-thru is a pain in the but. You can buy some toxic acid crap that will do it, but you have to be careful you don't get it on yourself. I let apple cider vinegar sit in it for a week, drain, strain and refill it every other day or so. Then I'll do a day or so of Evapo-rust
Seems to be on sale at the momend on Amazon with free shipping w/ prime. Harbor freight also carries it and with the 20% off coupon that is always available it can be had for about $23ish and it is reusable!
Second this, but for the sedan. So far I found this:https://www.amazon.com/Scotchgard-84906-Urethane-Protection-Length/dp/B000PF1PFO/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
Might help to protect the paint a bit.
You could probably use a clear film that they make for cars like 3M Scotchgard Clear Bra Paint Protection
It is crystal clear so it would show your stickers as they are and also protect them.
https://www.amazon.com/THE-SKYBRYTE-COMPANY-Ospho-Treatment/dp/B000C02CDG
Ospho. Follow the directions.
Duplicolor self etching primer and duplicator paint is better than the rustoleum.
I used the 2k aerosol raptor liner can on my hood. It looks good enough to me! I should have taken the hood off before spraying it... I stood on my tire and sprayed it straight down instead, but I'm still pleased with it overall. I had some bubbles on the hood when the first can started running out, and I used canned air duster to pop them before it dried.
http://imgur.com/a/rDDHxpu
Aerosol can
It took me two cans for the part of the hood I did
I like this idea.
Something like this might do the trick.
No kidding. Problem is that to get it professionally done is thousands of dollars. Function over form with these makes some sense.
3M Scotchgard Clear Paint Protection Bulk Film Roll 6-by-60-inches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004VG8DS0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DU8nDb5T0NH0G
I saw someone mention this before
Last question (I think).... this the stuff?
https://www.amazon.com/Scotchgard-84906-Urethane-Protection-Length/dp/B000PF1PFO
For rusted steel, I use Evapo-Rust. Afterwards, you can bring them back to a satin luster with 0000 steel wool. The 4-ought steel wool also works well on aluminum.
That could work this too. It protects cars from rocks, salt, snow, scratches pretty much everything.
3M Clear Paint Protection Bulk Film Roll 6-by-25-inches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B3IXSMA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_q6yBCb83CJ1EW
Not hard at all. Just follow the directions and don't overtighten. I will say the clear protection film they provide is garbage. Get some 3M stuff. I used this: 3M Clear Bra Paint Protection Bulk Film Roll 6-by-25-inches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B3IXSMA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_pSAV9rI8JS9Xj
Link to my review: https://youtu.be/gLkrROcURQA
If you're anal enough, you can put the 3M clear bra shit over the top of your tail fairings. A 6x60" roll will only set you back 18$. I find that no matter how protective manufacturers are of the bottom of their luggage, it's never enough.
https://www.amazon.com/Scotchgard-Clear-Paint-Protection-60-inches/dp/B004VG8DS0
There are better products out there for rust prevention.
CRC 06026 Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor
As many others have said, the black cushions do tend to wear out quickly and I stopped using them years ago. The thin, clear plastic ones are much more durable. And don't listen to the haters, it's totally normal to have a firm grip with your top teeth: biting with your bottom teeth is definitely not good for your tone and intonation, but just about every good player I know wears through mouthpiece patches eventually. And through the black rubber ones pretty swiftly.
That being said, I hate paying a bunch of money for clear plastic with an adhesive back. A mouthpiece maker friend of mine tipped me to a pretty excellent life-hack: use Scotchgard paint protector film and just cut off a little square every time you need a new patch on any of your mouthpieces. I bought one roll five years ago and I've barely made a dent in it. It'll last you for, like, ever. To me it's just as good as the clear Vandoren patches but for a penny a patch instead of a buck a patch.
I'm going to order some right now, is this what you get? https://www.amazon.com/Fluid-Film-11-75-Spray-2-pak/dp/B008T8CXGY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=fluid+film&amp;qid=1559312675&amp;s=automotive&amp;sr=1-3
In those dry areas I use CRC Corrosion Inhibitor.
For the others that I can't get a solid layer of undercoat, I use any spray lubricant to displace moisture and protect bare metal (i.e. door drain holes).
Here are some of my Go-To's for restoring old tools and metal parts:
Rust removal: EvapO-Rust
Awesome because when you're finished with it you can dump it into the garden and your plants will love you.
Sanding/Polishing up metal: Dico Nyalox Nylon Brushes
These last significantly longer than their wire counterparts and don't throw metal bristles into your skin. You can easily work up from grey to blue, but I find that often I can just start with the orange brush and it'll move enough metal. The blue gets it extremely shiny.
Polishing metal: 3M Scotchbrite Light Deburring Wheel
*For final finishing/polishing, you want the 'Light Deburring' wheel. You'll then just need to buy a drill arbor that matches the hole and go to work. That's easier than buying a grinder and using that. The finish that wheel leaves on metal parts is insane.
Can I ask you why it would make it worse? I'm considering using something like Evapo-Rust: https://www.amazon.com/Evapo-Rust-Original-contains-non-toxic-biodegradable/dp/B00M0TLQ66
This is the best I could find but it will serve its purpose and the least expensive as well. I will also require a little bit of cutting to fit the size of a Pro. Getting this for my Spidey-Pro.
Maybe try using a rust converter on it. Sand off most of the rust and use some steel wool to get a reasonable surface. Then spray on a bit of rust converter. It'll turn any remaining rust into a hard, black material that will prevent any future rust from forming. I think it also acts as a clear coat so you may wish to do a bit of sanding afterwards too.
https://www.amazon.com/VHT-SP229-Rust-Convertor-Can/dp/B002NUABUO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478891966&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=rust+converter+vht
You don't need to do anything. Most tanks are untreated steel, because frankly, most things don't hold up over time and cause much bigger problems over time.
IF, I had a new, bare steel tank I would do one of the following.
Phosphate conversion coating is safe and protects against rust.
The only other product I would consider is Red Kote. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009X0JOSM/ref=asc_df_B009X0JOSM5480476/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;creative=395033&amp;creativeASIN=B009X0JOSM&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=168489986144&amp;hvpos=1o1&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=4807055937970750055&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=c&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9015713&amp;hvtargid=pla-307199442621
If it is truly bare steel, I would at least do the Ospho. It is almost impossible to avoid ethanol fuel these days, so some rust prevention is in order.
The Caswell tank epoxy is a good product too, but I wouldn't use it on a new tank.
I have this on my bike as well. though only on the top tube. My chainstay is wrapped in 3M carbon fiber-textured vinyl wrap.
Becareful when applying it, it will bubble if you don't get an applicator. You can use IPA (rubbing alcohol) as a lubraicant instead of buying dedicated stuff though.
This is the one I used (similar to benben's)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PF1PFO/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This is stuff: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004VG8DS0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
They sell it in smaller sizes for less. Even something half that size would be enough for a dozen bikes.
I used to sell my frames after riding for a couple years. That stuff helped keep the frames looking brand new.
The first thing to use is Frame Protector for the inside of the frame. This can be messy so do this first. Next a brass wire brush on an electric drill or better yet on Dremel-type tool. Third thing is VHT SP229 Rust Convertor Can - 10.25 oz.. This stuff is amazing. It will turn your rust to a mineral that can be sanded off. Lastly, prep for paint. You can get in all the nooks and crannies with these and these. Do not try to paint it yourself. You suck at it. Take it to a motorcycle painter and if you ask for clear he will just hang it next to a motorcycle tank or fender and do them both at the same time. Should cost next to nothing if your prep is good.
Edit: sp
Or something like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004VG88MQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494603855&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=clear+auto+vinyl&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41MR34x8prL&amp;ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LZYSXZJ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Is there a link on where to get the acrylic protector? I don't see any linked in the (now 11 month old) FAQ, nor have I found it on Amazon. I've found 3M tape that I'm considering though, and am open to ideas why it would be a good or bad idea.
When I got my 00 it was clogging the heater core with rust on a regular basis. It would turn green antifreeze orange in a couple weeks of driving. Evaporust makes a coolant flush to remove rust that I used 2x. I had the head off 9 months later and I was amazed at the results. Looked brand new!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00R74I5UY/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1506470016&amp;sr=8-9&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=evaporust
Buy some of this and a heat gun and cover up the more vulnerable parts of your frame. Leave the current ones as battle scars to give your bike character.
That's cool. I use gadgetwraps even though it's quite a rip. I think the protectors are the same material as this: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B3IXSMA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 I bought it for my car and did a wet install and was like, "this is exactly the same thing that I do and use with my smartwatches." I could make like 168 protectors off of a sheet that size. But I could never cut it to exact watch screen dimensions and would be too lazy to draw mario.