Best car transmission parts & accessoires according to redditors

Two tips for your WRX mate:

1. Perrin shifter stop. It'll make shifting so much better feeling. It eliminates the shifter gate slop that's prevalent from the factory.

2.. If you aren't worried about tuning, a tune goes a hell of a long way in these cars. It literally made a night and day difference in the way mine drives. The throttle-by-wire system in the WRX is very touchy in stock form. 30% throttle pretty much equals 100%. Tuning eliminates that, and gives you a natural pedal travel. Not to mention the stock tune is just junk.

Anyways, have fun, and welcome to the Subaru family!

For anyone wondering, it's a T300 RS wheel, TH8A Shifter and T3PA pedal set. All from Thrustmaster. The chair is a Challenge from Playseat. And a PSVR, obviously.

Edit: /u/StephenSchleis requested that I add Amazon links, so here you go.

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300RS-Officially-Licensed-Feedback-Racing/dp/B00O8B7D02/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480328681&sr=8-1&keywords=T300+RS

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-TH8A-Add-Gearbox-Shifter-Xbox/dp/B005L0Z2BQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480328694&sr=8-1&keywords=TH8A+Shifter

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T3PA-3-Pedal-Wide-Pedal-Add/dp/B00KX75W9O/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1480328694&sr=8-4&keywords=TH8A+Shifter

https://www.amazon.com/Playseat-Challenge/dp/B009ZELZDS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480328735&sr=8-1&keywords=playseat+challenge

Bonus tip, the T3PA pedals come with the conical brake mod. It’s well worth installing. Also, cut out a piece of carpet and stick it to the pedal base for a bit of extra comfort.

Get a Thrustmaster wheel over the Logitech wheels. The technology in the Thrustmaster wheels is far far superior to the notchy gear drive of the Logitech. I suggest getting the following

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015KJ0SES/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_3?pf_rd_p=1944687622&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B004J6KRD6&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0ET5925JQKKMT3HMJ4TA

You get a full size rim (logitech uses a very small unrealistic rim size.) You can also add a shifter if you prefer that.

http://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Add-On-Gearbox-Shifter-4060059-videgame/dp/B005L0Z2BQ/ref=pd_bxgy_63_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1ZJ22XYZZ13QGCVHA7HB

https://www.amazon.de/Thrustmaster-4160681-Lenkrad-3-Pedal-Set-schwarz/dp/B014UOF0S8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491824607&sr=8-1&keywords=t300&th=1

&

https://www.amazon.de/Thrustmaster-TH8A-H-Shifter-XBox-4060059/dp/B005L0Z2BQ/ref=pd_sim_63_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=02XVN3TS6KQ36TYZ9MZX

Could get the cheaper T300 GT if you want but the alcantera rim is worth it for that small price increase.

This happened to me this past winter. Exact same noise. It's the pilot bearing, which is probably frozen onto the input shaft of the tranny at this point. All you need is a new clutch. A great OEM style clutch is the EXEDY KMZ03. I used it on my 1999 and it feels great and has great reviews for longevity.

If the pilot bearing IS frozen onto the input shaft, you will know that when you try to pry the trans off of the block, and it won't go much past 3/4 of an inch. This took me weeks to figure out what was going on in the bell housing, but if you sneak a wrench through the hole that the clutch lever goes into, you can unbolt the clutch spring assembly from the pressure plate and that will allow the trans to be removed. Be very careful not to torque the trans too much when prying, as you can bend the input shaft which would leave you without a trans.

I used a Dremel cutting wheel to cut the pilot bearing off of the input shaft once I got the transmission off of the block.

I hope this helps! Feel free to PM me if you need any info or pictures etc.

Edit: You will also want to get a new flywheel, or get your existing one resurfaced, depending on its wear.

Here is the link for the clutch kit, it is on sale on Amazon. Note that it does not include the flywheel, but includes all of the other necessary bearings and parts.

D30 Front Axle? Here's a good start: http://www.wranglerforum.com/f282/front-axle-u-joint-removal-67699.html

They link to Stu's site, which shows you how to pull the axle shafts http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/d30/axle-1.htm and how to replace a ujoint http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/ujoint1/u-joint-1.htm

There's a great trick (with pic) for removing the hub/shafts: http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/problems-replacing-wheel-bearing-hub-28951/

Spicer 5-760x is more durable than the stock 5-297, under $24 shipped with amazon prime: http://www.amazon.com/Spicer-5-760X-U-Joint-Kit/dp/B009X1XDZG

Over on rockauto, search "DANA HOLDING CORP Part # 5760X Spicer" $21.89 plus shipping.

to compare, $29.99 on qtec: http://www.quadratec.com/products/52302_102.htm also to verify fit.

Short version: unbolt and pull the entire hub/shaft, press out old one, press in new one, put it back together.

Edit: Just remembered matt at bleepinjeep has done a few vids on ujoints: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aE9aNHFehqw

From what I've seen/read, the Thrustmaster TS-PC is overpriced by $100 or so at the moment.

For c. $1000 I'd probaby get:

Thrustmaster T300RS

ProtoSimTech PT-1 Pedals

Thrustmaster TH8A Shifter

But you say you don't want a T300 (I've got one, it's amazing) so... I guess the nearest alternative would probably be the Fanatec CSL Elite, but I've got no experience with it, so someone else would have to chime in.

For me, if not going for the T300, I'd probably want to jump up to either the Fanatec CSW V2 or an AccuForce (or more likely an OSW).

Entirely depends on your budget - but at the very least something with Force Feedback, like the Logitech g29 with shifter - that's a very common setup. $200-450 is the figure you'd be looking at - depending on if what you want is on sale. A bit cheaper if you don't want a shifter and want to use the paddle shifters behind the wheels.

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-G29-Driving-Shifter-Bundle/dp/B016JBE8LU $299

I chose one a little higher priced, the Thrustmaster T300RS GT edition (3 pedal setup not the cheaper 2 pedal one without the clutch) as well as the TH8A shifter. I got the wheel on sale, full price on shifter. https://i.imgur.com/Y8Gg5oO.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300-RS-Racing-Wheel-PlayStation/dp/B01M1L2NRL?th=1 $388 + https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-PC-PS3-PS4-Xbox-One/dp/B005L0Z2BQ $149


These wheels are much more than toys. You can feel the wheels on the road, traction loss, how much torque the cars have, if you slam into a wall the wheels can damn near rip your hands off (you can change the % of feedback to lower it). It makes the experience in VR feel super real. I'd say a wheel carries as much importance in VR racing as the headset does.

The craziest feeling I've gotten so far as just sitting at the start of a race idling in a '66 Mustang. The entire hood of this car is shaking back and forth like Dom's muscle cars in Fast and the Furious.....and the WHEEL is shaking left and right with the car exactly how you would expect something with that much power to. That thing was like 100% torque and it felt amazing.

Even if it takes some saving, I highly recommend one of them - although I would definitely wait until Black Friday to get $100 ish off of either one you choose. The sale prices for these are quite tolerable when they occur.

A stand for the wheel is much nicer than a table for mounting, but they can be pricey as well. From $100 and up. My Apiga AP2 stand was $280 but worth every penny to not have a bar in between your legs. Only $240 now and supports most wheels. https://www.amazon.com/APIGA-Foldable-Racing-Simulator-gearshift-ALL/dp/B00XBPYUIY

I'd say the T150 is your best bet. I'm not sure if you're in the US or how the price would change depending on region, but the T150 Pro is on sale for $220. Comes with the T3PA pedals instead of the regular two-pedal board, it's great if you plan on using the TH8A shifter with your wheel. If not, the regular T150 and a DIY brake mod should do the job just nicely.

Have you seen https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0063GQP6S/ ? It's a driveshaft bearing replacement which does not require the shaft to be rebalanced. It's the only way to really fix it without dropping $$$ for a new shaft and bearing combo. /u/Rionoko . I've had my eye on it for my Q7 if the bearing ever bites the dust.

Cheap, or expensive, is relative. What budget do you have to work with? Basically, I would say in total for the rig, around $700-800 can get you something pretty decent, then you're looking for the actual console/PC and the games themselves as an additional price.

For a fairly cheap, but still best bang-for-buck rig, I would recommend:

• Any of the T300 + T3PA bundles, for example the T300 Ferrari Alcantara Edition - Great wheel, best entry level wheel by far. With decent pedals, optional brake mod included that, imo, improves the feel a lot. Clutch included.
  
  
• TH8A shifter - Fairly cheap, all things considered,
  
  
• Simetik K2 cockpit - Very sturdy and customizable for its price, and also doesn't have that annoying bar down the middle that basically inhibits you from heel-and-toe downshifting that most of the other cheap rigs have.
  
  All in all this comes down to $885 as of right now, if you want to save a little bit you could go for the original T300 GT Edition instead and it'll be $817.
  
  The Simetik K2 is by far the best rig you can get in that pricebracket, but if you must save some more either skip the shifter for now or get a Playseat Challenge, it isn't the sturdiest but again, I do not recommend getting a rig with the pole in between your legs, I would personally rather play at a desk and an office chair than that, as it, at least for me, makes it really hard to heel-and-toe, and I love racing old DTM and GT cars with manual gearboxes and couldn't do without that.

I posted this above, It can be cheap but if you want something that feels right.. it's not so cheap.

>[Thrustmaster](https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Force-Feedback-racing-wheel-WINDOWS/dp/B01CI97DNM/ref=sr_1_4?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1537753451&sr=1-4&keywords=thrustmaster+steering+wheel+pc&dpID=51bn3uOuWAL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
) on amazon is $160. It comes with pedals. But honestly after a month I upgraded to much better pedals and then bought a shifter ended up costing me over $400 by the end of it all lol. You can get away with just the wheel and default pedals though.

DEWHEL Manual Performance Shifter Stop Gap Removal Shift Stop Removes Loose Sloppy Shift Gate Feel CNC Aluminum 2015+ WRX/10-14 Legacy/Outback/14+ Forester (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BQH23K7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kD61BbH8D04ND

sorry for formatting I'm in mobile. I have this one in my 2016 wrx and it works fantastic, it's a part that saving a few bucks on is not going to injure your car.

You can buy lt from amazon or any good game retailer.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B005L0Z2BQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1427667065&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX200_QL40&keywords=thrustmaster+shifter&dpPl=1&dpID=31IeTgHKflL&ref=plSrch

If you want it for the xbox one make sure you get the TH8A shifter. There's another shifter which doesn't I nearly made the mistake.

You have to update the firmware on this before it works. Yep this shifter has its own firmware, So does the wheel. Easy enough to update unplug both and plug them into a pc and download updates

The 3 pedal is the best part of these wheels, and a lot of people continue to use them even after upgrading to Fanatec/TT. The Logitech shifter is sold separately now, and imo it's not worth the $60 they charge for it--save up for better quality. G25/27 wheels used to be a great value because they included 3 pedals + shifter for around $250-300 in an era when higher tier belt drive Thrustmaster wheels were around $500 just for the wheel and pedals.


A good shifter is going to cost you 100-150, so will a good set of pedals. But you should own a basic wheel like the TT TX for a few months to decide if you use it enough to warrant investing in higher end pedals/shifter. A lot of people buy these things and they just end up sitting in a closet being used a few times a year (if that).

Just ordered a shift stopper from unknown china company on amazon and popped that bad boy in after about 30 minutes and two small adjustments, wish I did this waaaaay earlier like when I got the car...it’s similar in design, build etc to perrin’s shift stopper but I’m a cheap bastard — it was cheap and worked great on my 2018 wrx base. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BQH23K7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LyBvCb0VXG5ZM very easy install just take your time as some of the hardware you will remove and reattach is super tiny and if I didn’t leave a Home Depot receipt under the shifter linkage I’d have lost a nut twice lol. Good luck on choosing a short shifter kit I know kartboy and several other guys make em!

Simple answer... the LUK 07-202 kit. Good Brand, great price, very complete.

We needed a clutch kit a couple years ago on our 2006 v6 and the LUK kit was the most complete OEM type clutch (and a good brand). The later v6's have a dual mass (not easily turned) flywheel so this kit having the flywheel is great.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003K0TWU6

The feel is OEM like and no issues with the install. We only have about 43k miles on the clutch kit so I can't speak for it's true longevity

First what year is it?
Replace the clutch, flywheel, and transmission is the obvious advise. You could rebuild the transmission, but it's always less stress to just put in a new one and know it will last. Also possibly check the transmission mounts if they are worn it could possibly explain third popping out.
You can do this all at one time with the help with another person. Since you have no experience try finding someone with experience. If you don't know anyone go to a local car club's website or even go to drive in car show and just ask around if someone can help. Car guys are generally awesome and want to teach. You can rent tools, but honestly I would invest in the proper tools, and never have to take your cars to the shop again (Unless it's something crazy).

Here's some links but I don't the year so these might not help:

http://customdc5.my-php.net/diy/clutch/

http://www.amazon.com/EXEDY-KHC10-OEM-Replacement-Clutch/dp/B001B5GA0C

http://acurazine.com/forums/performance-parts-modifications-126/diy-manual-transmission-clutch-replacement-removal-833245/

http://www.purzauto.com/PartDetails.aspx?sku=3331191&MakeModelID=1&utm_source=google&utm_medium=googlebase&utm_campaign=shopping&source=gmc&gclid=CP2HusXEpsICFUQV7Aodw0gAjw

Just start with the Rocky Spring Shift Stop and Perrin Brass Bushing.The rocky spring is the same as perrin shift stop just cheaper.

I installed both the SS and Bushing in my 18 lmtd in under 30 minutes. It cleaned it up a lot. Install both of those for under $50 and then reevaluate before you go replacing the entire thing.

I also have the short throw shifter from factory.

You can try something like this and going to a heavier weight conventional oil (Lucas 85-140). It could wreck your car though. If you have a high mileage car you should probably learn how to fix it...Mechanics won't have the time for it and they often screw things up.

https://www.amazon.com/ATP-AT-205-Re-Seal-Stops-Bottle/dp/B000NVW1LM

> Does the wheel come with transmission stick?

I wouldn't call it a transmission stick. This is my wheel, wich is on the cheap side. It has a stick but is just like two buttons you can push with it. More expensive wheels let you connect better sticks: https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-TH8A-Add-Gearbox-Shifter-Xbox/dp/B005L0Z2BQ/

or if you have money to burn you can buy something like this

Labor sounds about right - 4 hours total work.

Your clutch kit is about $7 cheaper than my NA6 OEM clutch kit, however your kit still shouldn't cost over $300 (for an OEM kit), that's just ridiculous.

Throw out bearing. Save up for the stock replacement excedy clutch. It's 100$.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001B5DS7K?pc_redir=1410435831&robot_redir=1

Check your year, 1.6 used a different clutch.

If the oil can only be traced from the ground/drip back up to the trans housing (not up to the CAS or valve cover gasket), then you are looking at rear main seal or trans front seal and there's no good way to tell without taking stuff apart. Depending on your ability to identify fluids, consider that clutch slave cyls often leak and check that.

I have, however, worked some minor miracles with this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/ATP-AT-205-Re-Seal-Stops-Bottle/dp/B000NVW1LM At the very least it doesn't deteriorate the seals further like some gimicky products do. And for me it has actually worked.

Aaah, 1300$ is way too much for that, my mechanic guy never saw a miata before, and he could do the job without a fuss. The miata is famous for being easy to work on. Was that OEM parts for 450$? Exedy kits are going for 120$-200$, lots of us are going with exedy

http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda-Performance-Part/15-1014.html

https://www.amazon.com/EXEDY-KMZ03-OEM-Replacement-Clutch/dp/B001B5DS7K

Not OP but I found this on Amazon and it looks like it's the same one https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-265-813-Transmission-Drain-Plug/dp/B00NF1PT8O

OP did you get a new seal or reuse the one that was there?

/u/alsenan This isn't true, but the answer is unfortunately not great. The better one is made by Thrustmaster at $150:

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-TH8A-Add-Gearbox-Shifter-Xbox/dp/B005L0Z2BQ?th=1

Not bad. I think I saw it at £200 the other week for all 3.

I’ve heard that the G920 has some reliability issues and that the TMX is probably better to go with if you get the Pro set with the T3PA pedals.

If you’re not too bothered about the shifter straight away I’d get the TMX. I have it and the wheel is great for the price bracket, just steer clear of the 2 pedal set if you have the budget to go a step further. Some links below so you can have a look;

ThrustMaster TMX PRO Steering Wheel + Pedalboard https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01M5ALXJD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6RUpDb20TDV5F

ThrustMaster T3Pa Pro Pedal set - 4060065 (Gaming > Game Controllers) +}b https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00UVN21IU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HSUpDbP6YVZ0D

Thrustmaster TH8A Shifter (PS4, Xbox One, PS3, PC - Windows 8, 7, Vista & XP) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B005L0Z2BQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_eTUpDbTEV2EHJ

I don't remember. I'm fairly sure it's a Dorman Products 265-813, but remember to cross-check that with model/year/transmission. Probably Amazon.

I've got a similar setup and this works great

MagiDeal Polished Shift Knob Boot... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0744MZ8KJ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Yup! You get the “teeth grinding” feeling. Buy one of these:

PERRIN Shifter Stop Compatible with Subaru WRX 2015-2017 and 2018-19 WRX with OEM Short Shifter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019D8RK5W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ORxKDbZWJJYPF

Very easy install. It def helps but doesn’t eliminate it entirely. It really tightens up the shifting. Also, get yourself a weighted shift knob (400 grams +) and that will also help!

Edit: adding link to install vid that I used. Hope this helps!

https://youtu.be/qBAcW6dOo9I

Thanks for the diagram! So I found this kit on Amazon and I wasn't sure if it's the right one but it appears to be. Then I was just going to get an OEM linkage like this one. Now I found the pivot bushings here is that all the parts I need?

Sounds weird to say "go to Amazon" for car parts, but this is the lowest price I've found for the Exedy: http://www.amazon.com/EXEDY-KMZ03-OEM-Replacement-Clutch/dp/B001B5DS7K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377818936&sr=8-1&keywords=Exedy+KMZ03

This one. Feel free to PayPal me the price difference! :P

https://www.amazon.com/EXEDY-KMZ03-OEM-Replacement-Clutch/dp/B001B5DS7K

Does it look like this: https://www.amazon.com/Empi-W0133-1643984-EMP-EMPI-Boot-Clamp/dp/B001HLXFHG

Amazon UK and Zavvi (reputable UK seller) both have the TH8A in stock:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Thrustmaster-TH8A-Shifter-PS4-Xbox/dp/B005L0Z2BQ

http://www.zavvi.com/xbox-one-accessories/thrustmaster-th8a-add-on-shifter-for-ps4-xbox-one-ps3-pc/11073267.html

I put in a LUK in mine as a daily about 4 months ago and it feels quite nice.

 

It softened the clutch a little bit, but otherwise, it's a pretty great replacement, especially because the kit has all you need and it is at a very reasonable price (in comparison to every other replacement clutch out there).


I bought this one on amazon

I let the vehicle sit overnight and bled the clutch again the next day, but I definitely did not leave anything in the hydraulic clutch system open overnight.

I have used this master/slave replacement: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0049MFPFA

I think it was advertised "pre-bled" - the one I got had fluid in it but was absolutely not pre-bled. Also, the fluid it shipped with must have been very low-quality, as the clutch felt "creaky" for weeks even after I got it bled properly. I finally flushed all the original fluid out and replaced with regular old DOT3 and the "creakiness" in the pedal stopped.

Hope this helps you out!

They just go well before they should. Sometimes 40k, sometimes 100k.

Don't get a stock replacement. Get an aftermarket fix.

https://www.amazon.com/Clamping-Bearing-Support-Porsche-Cayenne/dp/B0063GQP6S

I recommend both the shift stop mentioned above + the Perrin brash shifter bushing ( https://www.amazon.com/Perrin-Subaru-Speed-Shifter-Bushing/dp/B019D8NQD2 ). There are a ton of great DIY installs for both of these products mentioned above. The stop does help with going vertical, by tightening up its gate horizontally. The stop keeps you in-line with the gate and makes the shifter have a more secure path into 1st, 2nd, 5th, & 6th. The brash bushing will relive a lot of that notchiness and slop and will help you slide into gear with more ease.

I can recommend my setup:
Thrustmaster T300 Ferrari Alcantara Integral Edition

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015KJ0SES/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487172453&sr=8-1-fkmr0&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=thrustmaster+t+300

Get a extra shifter like the TH8A

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005L0Z2BQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487172565&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=thrustmaster&dpPl=1&dpID=41AEMeEQwUL&ref=plSrch

SimRig GT Omega Pro RS9

http://usa.gtomegaracing.com/racing-simulator-cockpits/pro-racing-simulator-cockpit/gt-omega-pro-racing-simulator-basic-rs9-seat-canada

Total cost: 1070$

Of course you could get even better options on the market. But IMO it is the best compromise between cost, reliability and quality.

Sure. This is the one I ordered.

The shipping might take a while, but if you can find a domestic one with the same thread size, it will work too.

You could also go for the Thrustmaster T300 with the Alcantara wheel and T3PA pedals and the TH8A shifter for less money than the bundle with a better wheel.

• Thrustmaster T300 Alcantara Edition
  
  
• Thrustmaster TH8A Shifter
  
  
• Fanatec ClubSport Handbrake V1.5
  
  
• Fanatec ClubSport USB Adapter
  
  
• Playseat Challenge
  
  
• 2 of these RAM mounts
  
  
• Logitech MK270 Wireless Keyboard and Mouse
  
  
• HTC Vive
  
  
• Tek Republic USB 3.0 Hub
  
  You also need a drill and a bunch of different size M6s to attach everything to the Challenge.
  
  Oh, and I put a bunch of foam behind my pedals.

I got both the bushing and shift stop from Amazon due to prime and cheaper price.

Perrin Performance PSP-INR-018
Perrin Shift Stop

Perrin Performance PSP-INR-016
Perrin Shift Bushing

The Invidia R400 is louder at cold starts and its a deep sound. At idle, it sounds stock. Below 2.5k rpm is not too loud and but does get louder at higher rpms. I do love the deep bass sound. I typically try to shift below 3k rpm when leaving my Apt community in the morning. Wife says her 18 Stock Mustang 5.0 is still louder :/

you need 3 of these to rebuild the entire front shaft.

http://www.amazon.com/Spicer-5-1310X-U-Joint-Kit/dp/B009X1X91O

and a centering cup.

http://www.amazon.com/Spicer-211355X-Socket-Yoke-Assembly/dp/B00GAPLVCA

for the rear shaft if it ever comes up its just 2 of the ujoints for the front.

Amazon has them for $113 too...

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Ok, yeah he's charging 780 for the labor, 80 for shop supplies and 100 for turning the flywheel. 500 for the clutch kit seems to be where things get off base.

What am I missing here, it looks like the oem clutch kit is $135 with prime shipping on Amazon.

Looks like that is a 3rd party sale, but the part number is correct. I should just buy this now, right? And return if it's not right or busted up.

>Transfer Case Cable Shifter Kit for the 231 Jeep Wrangler TJ/LJ 1997-2006
>
>https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073L4L4R5/ref=cm\_sw\_r\_cp\_apa\_i\_Rp91DbESMJXCX
>
> Just a note. It says it doesn't work with the Rubicon model.

Thanks

Transfer Case Cable Shifter Kit for the 231 Jeep Wrangler TJ/LJ 1997-2006 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073L4L4R5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Rp91DbESMJXCX
Just a note. It says it doesn't work with the Rubicon model.

Will this work?

http://www.ixizconcept.com/ixizsclutch/ixizsclutch_pd.htm

https://www.maperformance.com/products/2015-subaru-wrx-sti-rain-guard-deflector-kit-by-subaru-oem-wrx-oem-rain-guard

https://www.maperformance.com/collections/cobb-tuning-accessport/products/cobb-tuning-accessport-v3-2015-2018-subaru-wrx-sti-ap3-sub-004

http://www.clarkturnertuning.com/order.html#!/Flex-Fuel-Kit-&-Map-Combo-DIT-2015-2018-WRX/p/75422162/category=22552203

Vincool Anodized Aluminum Shifter Stop Gap Removal for Subaru 2015+ WRX/2010-2014 Legacy/Outback/2014+ Forester Red https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G5X4HKN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_tCFwDbS562GW3

https://phatbottituning.com/shop?olsPage=products%2F2015-plus-wrx-pump-gas-tune-e-tune-or-dyno-add-on

You might be going through what I am now with my TJ. Good chance you have a front u-joint going.


Willing to bet steering feels a little stiff (more feedback than usual) despite proper levels in the power steering system and seems to ease up when straight.


Got myself a pair of these today via Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009X1XDZG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Heads up if you have Prime, order the "single" twice instead of the 2-pack. For whatever reason they'll allow two singles to ship for free but not as a two pack.

For reference, this is my setup, pictured is the F1 wheel, but I have the Alcantara wheel as well, so feel free to ask questions.


https://images-ext-1.discordapp.net/.eJwNxksSwiAMANC7sIdACE3obfhpdWzLFFw53l3f6n3U-3qpVW1z9rEClHqY-hjlvGrq3ZRzhzRnKtvejjkALbGwZe9EOHCwBEjIiAs5jv9EKwJ5cYiena4-VU2hZi1ebjq3JkS5lNiyRuesYPABzbPf1fcHVQknLA.M_GwCWqhJqb1iCz30UZ_v9qn0NI?width=2000&height=1500


One of the best packages is this,

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015KJ0SES/ref=twister_B01CQAGISE?_encoding=UTF8&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-TH8A-Add-Gearbox-Shifter-Xbox/dp/B005L0Z2BQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1479935435&sr=1-1&keywords=TH8A

Last time I got a new clutch was 2013, I replaced the flywheel with this EXEDY FF01T Chromoly Racing Flywheel, and the clutch with EXEDY KSB03 OEM Replacement Clutch Kit. Best clutch/flywheel combo I've had, including the original. I'm not really into high performance though, so I'm not sure why I got a "racing" flywheel. I think at the time it wasn't that expensive compared to whatever else was out there. Now it's $309, I think I paid more like $290.

It's buttery smooth though. My original clutch had a terrible grab and judder in low gears, and my second clutch was grabby and juddery in a different way, maybe even more annoying. This one has been a gem since day one.

so you'd suggest the below configuration over the Logitech one? Is there a reason I should stay away from Logitech?

Wheel

shift

seat

TH8A £99.85 including shipping @ Amazon.co.uk

More like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001HLXFHG/ref=mh_s9_acsd_topr_b13yaT_c_x_1_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-3&pf_rd_r=1FTBCVZ1A43HG4JPWX5D&pf_rd_r=1FTBCVZ1A43HG4JPWX5D&pf_rd_t=30901&pf_rd_p=e4caac57-a527-5dfc-8966-2cec2551af43&pf_rd_p=e4caac57-a527-5dfc-8966-2cec2551af43&pf_rd_i=15724221
Except the little tabs won't pry up and the metal is to strong for dikes or shears

It's a good idea to upgrade to that style. Here's the spicer one I got when my passenger side ujoint went bad

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009X1XDZG/

Here's my comprehensive list of what I have added to my 2018 WRX so far:

• OEM Crystal Black Silica Touchup Paint
  J361SAJ000A1 - T/U PAINT CRYSTAL BLACK S - Subaru
  https://www.ebay.com/itm/253360200768
  
• OEM Wind Deflector (9/17/2018)
  Subaru Genuine E3610FJ860 Side Window Deflectors, 1 Pack
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U0FG7IE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Rear Bumper Applique (9/17/2018)
  Genuine Subaru E771SFJ600 Rear Bumper Applique, 1 Packhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0089E4Q72/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• High Beam/DRL LED headlight bulbs (9/12/2018)
  Auxbeam 9005 LED Headlights F-S2 Series with 2Pcs 9005 HB3 H10 9145 LED Headlight Bulbs Conversion Kits 72W 8000LM Bridgelux COB Chips Fog Light
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KFBPAJO?pf_rd_p=d1f45e03-8b73-4c9a-9beb-4819111bef9a&pf_rd_r=5B9ETM0YME2Q0RAZW9PK&th=1
  
• Cobb AP with MAP 91/93oct Tunes (9/6/2018)
  COBB TUNING ACCESSPORT V3 | 2015-2018 SUBARU WRX/STI (AP3-SUB-004)
  https://www.maperformance.com/products/cobb-tuning-accessport-v3-2015-2018-subaru-wrx-sti-ap3-sub-004
  
• Low Beam LED headlight bulb (9/4/2018)
  H11/H8/H9 LED Headlight Bulbs Conversion Kit, DOT Approved, SEALIGHT S1 Series 12x CSP Chips Low Beam/Fog Light Bulb- 6000LM 6000K Xenon White
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079KB7QX3/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Smoked Tail Light Overlay (9/1/2018)
  IAG ROCKBLOCKER SMOKE REVERSE LIGHT OVERLAY FILM KIT | 2015-2018 SUBARU WRX/STI SEDAN (IAG-BDY-2015)
  https://www.maperformance.com/products/iag-rockblocker-smoke-reverse-light-overlay-film-kit-2015-2017-subaru-wrx-sti-iag-bdy-2015
  
• Mirrortap Cord for Uniden RD (7/14/2018)
  MIRRORTAP POWER CORDS MirrorTap MTX-1020, RJ-11, 20" Long, Patented Radar Detector Power Cord With 2 Amp In-Line Fuse, Military Grade Taps, Made in USA
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L2SVXQO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Mirror Mount for Uniden RD (7/14/2018)
  BlendMount BND-2000R Aluminum Radar Detector Mount for Uniden DFR6/7,LRD950 (EXCEPT R1/R3) - Compatible with Most American and Asian Vehicles - Made in USA - Looks Factory Installed
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06ZY5FYCC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Alloy wheel touch up paint (7/20/2018)
  Subaru alloy wheel paint WRX 2018 Gray
  http://quiktouch.com/eng/product-detail?subaru-alloy-wheel-paint-wrx-2018-gray&id=6295
  
• Towing Warning Sticker (6/22/2018)
  WRX w/ STi wing AWD Tow Warning Decal Sticker adhesive inside mount
  https://www.ebay.com/itm/201251688281
  
• Fuse Box Coin Container (6/20/2018)
  2015 - 2017 / 2018 WRX / STi JDM Subaru genuine coin box pocket fuse cover lid
  https://www.ebay.com/itm/201597032045
  
• 2x Trunk Cargo Hook (6/20/2018)
  OEM 2017-2018 Subaru Impreza Sedan Trunk Cargo Hook Bag Holder NEW F551SFL100
  https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-2017-2018-Subaru-Impreza-Sedan-Trunk-Cargo-Hook-Bag-Holder-NEW-F551SFL100/192483488447?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
  
• Wheel Lock Kit (7/24/2018)
  Genuine Subaru B321SFG000 Wheel Lock Kit
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007CLSJRQ/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Rear Fog Light (6/11/2018)
  iJDMTOY Smoked Lens 3-In-1 LED Rear Fog Light Assembly Kit (Tail, Brake, Backup Reverse Light) For 2011-up Subaru Impreza WRX STI (with Wire Harness & Mounting Bracket)
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GSVLSUA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Rear Fog Light Plug & Play Harness (6/11/2018)
  SubieBros Rear Fog Light Plug And Play Harness - Multifunction Style
  http://subiebros.com/subiebros-rear-fog-light-plug-and-play-harness/
  
• LED light replacement (4/30/2018)
  10x White Interior LED Lights Bulb Package Kit For 2015-2017 Subaru WRX STI
  https://www.ebay.com/itm/171646325126
  
• Billetworkz Weighted Shift Knob (4/7/2018)
  Billetworkz Subaru WRX/STI Weighted 500g Gear Shift Knob 6 Speed STI: 2004-Present, WRX: 2015-Present
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071NJDYTP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
  
• Perrin Shifter Bushing (3/24/18)
  Perrin 2015 Subaru WRX 5 Speed Stiff Brass Shifter Bushing
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019D8NQD2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Perrin Shifter Stop (2/4/18)
  Perrin Subaru 2015 WRX/10-14 Legacy/Outback/14+ Forester Manual Shifter Stop - Black Anodized
  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019D8RK5W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_XoDBAbAT15SH5
  
• Rally Armor Mud flaps (1/21/18)
  Rally Armor 15+ Subaru WRX & STi Sedan Only Red Mud Flap w/ White Logo
  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RPKG6QA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_EqDBAbA5TCHJM
  
• K&N Air Filter (12/24/17)
  K&N 33-2304 High Performance Replacement Air Filter for 2003-2017 Subaru 1.5L/1.6L/2.0L/2.5L/3.0L/3.6L
  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000COC0GQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IsDBAbS3DT7HK
  
• License Plate Frame (1/8/18)
  Black License Plate Frame, Ohuhu 4 Hole Matte Aluminum 2 PCS Slim License Plate Frames with Screws Caps
  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MPYE3SB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.tDBAb0S850YB
  
• License Plate Bracket Kit (1/8/18)
  https://www.ebay.com/itm/282594278514

If you are on PC you have a number of choices for shifters. Since all of the shifters will use USB it is seen as a separate device and you just map it.

The shifter you asked about is probably the lowest priced option but you do have more options. Here are a few to think about.

The Thrustmaster TH8A can be changed from gated to sequential in about 2 minutes.

Fanatec also has 2 shifters. A sequential and a gated/sequential version.

You could wait on it. The slave cylinder on the nv3550’s are external, held on with two bolts through the bell housing and can be changed without dropping the transmission. Come to think of it, if you believe your clutch is fine, it might be a good idea to change it first and see if it solves the problem. It’s also an option to get it and the master cylinder as a whole new unit including a new line already connected to them. here’s an amazon link but if the pedal doesn’t seem soft I doubt it’s the problem. They tend to blow the seals and leak and be soft rather than get clogged and get hard/cause shift issues in that manner. Any shop could pull that and bench bleed it as well and know right away if it’s causing any issue. I will say though, those trannys are bullet proof and I’d bet your issue is clutch related rather than the transmission.

Spicer 5-760X U-Joint Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009X1XDZG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Also I used the two sockets method with a 4 lb hammer to change them

PERRIN Solid Shifter Bushing Compatible with Subaru WRX 2015 - 19 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019D8NQD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1J6GDb1CMZCCE

This will help. Gets rid of the dumb rubber one

• Wheel base: $220
  
  
  
• Shifter: $180
  
  
  
• Pedals: $150
  
  
  
• Wheel rim: $200
  
  Grand total: $750
  
  
• Fanatec: $1000
  
  It's really not that far off when you consider that Fanatec is broadly considered higher quality than Thrustmaster. I was ready to go all-in on Thrustmaster before I added it all up and realized I might as well keep saving and get the Fanatec stuff.

Yes.. Dorman makes an upgraded part. Easy to change once the shifter is out. There's youtube videos out there on how.

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-924-706-Chrysler-Transmission-Interlock/dp/B004AIHKT2

Okay so this is what I bought
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300-RS-Racing-Wheel-PlayStation/dp/B01M1L2NRL/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500815622&sr=8-1&keywords=t300+gt+rs


I also have


https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-TH8A-Add-Gearbox-Shifter-Xbox/dp/B005L0Z2BQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1500815656&sr=1-1&keywords=t3pa+shifter

and I have a GT Omega stand

https://www.amazon.com/Omega-Steering-suitable-LOGITECH-Driving-Shifter/dp/B072PPSJY3/ref=sr_1_1?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1500815674&sr=1-1&keywords=gt+omega+steering+wheel+stand

I've used them Twice

I'd be willing to give 20% off if you bought everything.

https://www.amazon.com/Prothane-16-1602-Shifter-Bushing-Kit-x/dp/B00AKHRK1U

Its been great!

I have yet to run into any issues with the wheel itself, though I feel I should warn you that if you're on carpet, the pedals don't have carpet spikes. So, you'll need to have something weighty either behind them or holding down the front. Otherwise, they will tip backwards when you hit the brake pedal.

Also, the price dropped to $150 for a couple of weeks not too long ago. It's back to $200 now, but I wouldn't be surprised if it goes on sale again in the next few months, if you're willing to wait.

As for getting a shifter, you can, but it's expensive. The only one I know of that's compatible is the TH8A.

Feel free to reply here or PM me if you have any more questions. :D

Yeah, it just plugs in via USB. This one is pricey, but supposedly very nice: https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-PC-PS3-PS4-Xbox-One/dp/B005L0Z2BQ/

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-TH8A-Add-Gearbox-Shifter-Xbox/dp/B005L0Z2BQ

I believe this is the only one that's compatable with modern Thrustmasters, They're extremely popular so the prices probably won't be much lower than $100 any time soon

sure thing, I'm in the UK so links are for UK shops

T300RS - you can choose your wheel too, little cheaper with GTE rim but ultimately the same wheel
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Thrustmaster-Official-Force-Feedback-wheel/dp/B00NOJJPZU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418413732&sr=8-1&keywords=t300rs

T3PA Pedals
http://shop.thrustmaster.com/en_gb/pc/t3pa.html

TH8A Stick - Out of stock just about everywhere at the minute but I pre-ordered at Amazon
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Thrustmaster-TH8A-Shifter-PS4-Xbox/dp/B005L0Z2BQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418413837&sr=8-1&keywords=th8a

or

http://shop.thrustmaster.com/en_gb/pc/th8a-shifter-add-on.html

Wheel Stand Pro - comes with all plates and mounts for everything above
http://wheelstandpro.com/products/wheel-stand-pro-for-thrustmaster-tx-racing-wheel-deluxe-v2

Total Cost
£571.46

Realistically however you can get away with just the wheel on its own clamped to as desk or something if budget is an issue. the pedals it comes with are ok but I had some foam down the back of the brake to add a little resistance

I fixed the link. Thanks for the response. Am i correct in understanding that size doesn't matter here And that I can use the same for Axel and driveshaft joints?

Someone recommended this cheap one off amazon. Ordered it. Worked just fine.


[Vincool Anodized Aluminum Shifter Stop Gap Removal for Subaru 2015+ WRX/2010-2014 Legacy/Outback/2014+] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G5X4HKN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vZsnDb1GG1G2Q)

https://www.amazon.com/EXEDY-KSB03-OEM-Replacement-Clutch/dp/B001B5EMO8/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=wrx+clutch+act&qid=1556119337&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Here you go, I'm going to be doing mine as well.

Get you some anti-seize while you're at it. Gonna want it on your hubs and hub bolts after you put them back in place. You will need a 13mm 12-point socket for the job.

Do you need to? Are you getting noise and vibration that is in line with a bad u joint?

Doesn't sound like a complete kit. Im not changing out the CV double cardan joints as they were done a year ago. I went with Spicer non greasables.
For the driveshafts I got 3 5-1310x
https://www.amazon.com/Spicer-5-1310X-U-Joint-Kit/dp/B009X1X91O
For the drive shafts I got 2 5-760x
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00QAURWQO/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just checked Amazon UK, where I'm lurking (probably not helpful if you're across the sea), and they have them in stock. However, I couldn't believe the price. They're about 75% more expensive than when I bought mine.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Thrustmaster-TH8A-Shifter-PS4-Xbox/dp/B005L0Z2BQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519862290&sr=8-1&keywords=Thrustmaster+shifter

http://www.amazon.com/EXEDY-KSB03-OEM-Replacement-Clutch/dp/B001B5EMO8/ref=au_pf_ss_1?ie=UTF8&Make=Subaru|13&Model=Impreza|62&Year=2002|2002&carId=002&n=15684181&s=automotive

Labor was almost $450 for me.

Awesome indestructible motor keep oil in it... just add it why are you going to fix a little leak. If it’s the rear main pit this stuff in it https://www.amazon.com/ATP-AT-205-Re-Seal-Stops-Bottle/dp/B000NVW1LM/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr2_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1543451340&sr=8-2-fkmr2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=engine+seal+restorer

Fanatec do some nice ones, expensive though. Thrustmaster also do them.