Best cat 5e ethernet cables according to redditors
We found 398 Reddit comments discussing the best cat 5e ethernet cables. We ranked the 161 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 398 Reddit comments discussing the best cat 5e ethernet cables. We ranked the 161 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Mediabridge Ethernet Cable (15 Feet) - Supports Cat6/5e/5, 550MHz, 10Gbps - RJ45 Cord (Part# 31-399-15X ) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EUHRLF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YGjuDb66W42TB
That is 23awg vs the 30awg on this flat cable. The one I linked also is rated up to 500-550mhz. The flat one is only 250mhz. The one I linked is true copper, this one is more than likely copper clad aluminum. Other than that, true spec cat6 is not only twisted pairs but also all the pairs themselves twist around the cable. There's also foil shielding, I don't think this flat cable has it. Like I said, most people wouldn't notice a difference especially if you are nowhere near gigabit speeds. If you often transfer files between computers ( or other things ) at gigabit speeds then I would invest a bit more on higher quality cables.
https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Ethernet-Cable-100-Feet/dp/B003RCEAB8/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_bs_tr_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=GWAHMHHHZSPDW2GG65P2
You're welcome
I fail to see how offloading the minuscule bit of processing power to the network card is going to be at all noticeable in the long run. I have an onboard Realtek GBE in my 3 year old gaming rig and have gigabit NICs in all my important computers (HTPC/server/gaming laptop), all hardwired, and I get between 60-90MBs transfer rates across them, including my RAID 5 DAS.
I ping under 15ms to most every server in my city and my bandwidth is all but lacking(EDIT: FWIW I have a Motorola SB6120 and a Linksys E3000).
I think it's much much more important to make sure your devices are simply running gigabit and put that money toward a pull box, a gigabit router, and gigabit switches. Make sure if you're on a cable connection you have a DOCSIS 3 modem and you have a strong signal from your ISP. I can't imagine any better performance with a dedicated network "gaming" card than I'm getting currently.
If you can afford to pay 60~ bucks for a new fighting game then you should be able to afford 6 dollars for an ethernet cable, right?
https://www.amazon.com/VIVO-CABLE-V001-Cat5e-Ethernet-Cable/dp/B0092TG310/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504940343&sr=8-1&keywords=1000+foot+cat5e
Edit: You literally didn't try. Its not about someone vouching. You just shove the onus on someone else.
Assuming that each run goes from the jack in the wall back to the junction box, it is very easy to fix the wiring. Begin by pulling off all of the wall plates, and check to see if all 8 wires are terminated in the jack.
terminated
If they are, I would purchase a patch panel and terminate all of the wires in it. You need to make sure the color layout on the jacks is the same as the panel, because there are two different standards. You can find this out by looking on the jack itself, and you should see a template that states A and B, and the wires SHOULD (as long as the low voltage installer was competent) follow one of those standards. Just write down which is being used, and then use the same standard when terminating the other end of the wires in the patch panel. The only tool you need to accomplish this is a punch down tool.
As long as the wires are in the wall, the hard part is done! Terminating them just takes a little time, but is very easy to do. Once you have them terminated in the patch panel, throw in a switch/router and you are all set!
Can't really tell from this picture, but alot of times, it looks like ethernet, but it ends up not being terminated correctly, or setup for something like voice only or some other non-standard thing.
If it were me, I'd make a small investment in the following;
If you are lucky, whomever setup that panel wired it correctly, and the runs will test out. If you are not lucky, you'll need to take the next step and fix it yourself. This will require some more stuff;
There are many tutorials on the web on how to terminate Ethernet - essentially, you're going to need to make sure that the wires are terminated properly on the punch panel (in your living room) to the specifics on the keystone jack at the far end. Most likely, the jack at the far end looks something like this - https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Keystone-Ethernet-Compatible-Connector/dp/B014RAT7ZC/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1504982947&sr=1-6&keywords=keystone+jack
If you get the connectivity right, and that cable has all the pairs (8), you should be able to connect, and be on the road.
Not sure where you are located, but usually Fry's or MicroCenter is a good place to source these tools.
Holler back if you need more info.
That is ridiculous. The most annoying answer you can get from any of us is "just spend money!!" which is stupid and beside the point. But in case you want a cheaper alternative to a $60 game, you COULD grab a 100ft ethernet cable [on amazon] (http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Cat5e-Ethernet-Patch-Cable/dp/B003RCEAB8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1464400902&sr=8-3&keywords=100ft+ethernet+cable) and just run it to the modem to upload your saves once in a while and store it when you're not using it. Lame, I know.
Sorry man, this is crap. I play on PC but I have an XBONE and I'd be pissed if that happened to me.
Most of what lbstrange1 wrote is incorrect.
That is a 66 block. It is completely unnecessary unless you are planning on having multiple phone lines in your home. Pull off all of the wires and throw the 66 block away.
If you want to go the cheap route just crimp RJ45 male connectors onto the end of each cable. There are YouTube videos that will show you how to properly crimp them. Make sure you are using 568B configuration.
If you want to make it look nice buy one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000067SC6
Use the previously mentioned punch down tool to terminate the wires. DO NOT strip the wires first. Make sure you punch it down as 568B.
I'm willing to bet that your home builder's contractor installed RJ11 phone jacks throughout your home. If so you'll need these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00111AAZ2/
Install them at each wall jack location using 568B configuration.
Finally, you'll need a switch as was previously stated. However it does not connect directly to your modem. You need to connect it to your router.
"Has to be close to router".
Bitch please.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003RCEAB8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xZeaBbDHZY8VT
I wouldn't risk my network hardware on, "Gee, I don't think the other end is connected to anything ..." You won't be a happy camper, if you let the smoke out!
I think the problem is that the PC board shorts everything together, in order to distribute a telephone line(s) throughout the house. You will want to remove that PC board and terminate each off those cables individually at a patch panel, such as this:
https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Wallmount-Ethernet-N050-012/dp/B000067SC6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481104803&sr=8-1&keywords=rj45+punch+down+block
Then from the patch panel, you'll need patch cables to connect each line to a switch.
This is one of the best ways to set it up without getting caught.
Yea, running ethernet would probably be the overall better solution.
You can't just split the coax to the modem/router and expect it to work. Your ISP gives you one, usually dynamic, IP address that authenticates to the local node with the credentials of the modem.
If you add another modem to the equation, I doubt it would authenticate unless you set that up with your ISP beforehand.
Get some bulk water-proof Cat5e and just run that cable to a switch in the pool house.
Bruh
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WD017BG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_njw2AbPSW6FXJ
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003RCI5A0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nkw2AbJS0G492
Paying someone to run Ethernet is a huge waste of money. Even with buying all the tools and supplies yourself you will save lots of money.
In your situation I would go up into the attic then run down into the walls to your wall jacks.
Stuff you'll need: (not including drywall saw and gang boxes/gang frames to mount the wall jacks)
http://www.amazon.com/UbiGear-Crimper-Connector-Network- Crimper315/dp/B008UY5WL0/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1457464334&sr=1-2&keywords=rj45
http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-Go-19958-Steel/dp/B0017RAHSA /ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1457464421&sr=1-2&keywords=wire+fish
http://www.cablingplus.com/t/networking/jacks-and-connectors/cat5e-keystone-jacks-25-packs
http://www.cablingplus.com/t/networking/wall-plates/classic-keystones- wall-plates
http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Punch-Down-Impact-Blade/dp/B0072K1QHM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457464708&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=110+punch+down&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/Cat5e-Ethernet-Cat-5e-VIVO-CABLE-V001/dp/B0092TG310/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1457464781&sr=1-5&keywords=cat5
For around $165.00 you'll have everything you need. Less if you need less than 1000' of cable.
It's true that the cable I listed is not plenum rated but you're not going to be in the attic if your house is on fire anyway. I wouldn't worry about it or waste the money on it.
I've installed hundreds of miles of cat5 in my earlier career before switching to sysadmin stuff.
A few different companies make "EZ" RJ45 ends that are to be used with a crimper that has a blade that cuts off the excess. However, just like in the OPs picture, the first and last conductor rarely cut cleanly and it ends up being more trouble than it is worth.
Also, rule of thumb is B config for data, A config for phone. When in doubt, use B.
OW/O+GW/BL+BLW/G+BRW/BR
Cheap RJ45 cable tester
Bulk Premade CAT5E Cables
Well, the person saved themselves 8.73 at best. https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Category-5e-Crossover-Molded-Patch/dp/B000067RFT
$12.95 w/ One Day shipping available
http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Cat5e-Ethernet-Patch-Cable/dp/B003RCEAB8
I can't tell for sure from the photos, but that cable is probably at least CAT5e or better, which is just fine for 1GB ethernet in the house.
You need to cut off the phone jacks and install CAT5e or better RJ-45 jacks with a punch down tool. Do this conversion at every place where you want network. Then in the basement you need to punch down the other end of each cable separately to a CAT5e or better patch panel. Then you need to run short CAT5e or better patch cords from the patch panel to an Ethernet switch. Finally you need to connect your router to the switch, either directly, or through one of the network jacks you installed in the house.
That's definitely wired for pots. Buy an Ethernet patch panel like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Wallmount-Ethernet-N050-012/dp/B000067SC6
and replace it.
Then connect your router or switch and away you go.
> I don't think there are any non-rack-mounted patch panels
"wall mount patch panel" is what you're looking for.
Those are much easier than screwing with keystones in a place you're going to have a bunch of cables.
The way to solve problems like this is through process of elimination.
What happens when you plug the Ethernet cable directly into your laptop instead of your router?
What happens when you use your laptop near the pool. Do you get the 100Mb speeds?
Can you test plugging your laptop directly into his modem with a shorter cable?
Can you confirm that he is actually getting the speeds he thinks he is?
If you still get slow speeds it's a problem with your laptop. If your speeds improve then it's a problem with the cat5 cable.
Regardless, it would be a good idea to gan outdoor rated Ethernet cable like this one:
100ft Cat5e Outdoor Waterproof Ethernet Cable Direct Burial 100 ft (Shielded & Grounded) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001B6DM52/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ablmybKNWRTQ7
Because any normal cable will start to deteriorate pretty quickly.
It doesn't matter - go for Cat5/Cat5E will suffice. Unless you have devices that support more than 1GB/sec bandwidth, you can use Cat5. If you need 10GB/sec, then go for CAT6.
http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Cat5e-Ethernet-Patch-Cable/dp/B001W26TIW/
Cat5 = 10/100 Mbps (10/100MB)
Cat5E = 1,000 Mbps (1GB)
Cat6 = 10,000 Mbps (10GB)
Cat6a = 10,000 Mbps (10GB)
This is the correct answer. Not only will it be the highest performing option and the most reliable option, but it'll also be the cheapest option. Monoprice will sell you one for ~$13, Amazon Prime for $13, 100ft each.
Lol, yeah so I was trying to save money and bought this outdoor cabling that is not STP. Its Copper Clad Aluminium wire and the jacket is covered by an outdoor jacket. Long runs only connect at 10 Mbps. This gore was just test positions, but I really messed up on that wiring. Going to rewire in spring.
Edit: this is the brand to avoid https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Waterproof-Outdoor-VIVO-CABLE-V011/dp/B00GYGNCPO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1481576820&sr=8-5&keywords=outdoor+ethernet#customerReviews
It has a lot of positive reviews but the negatives are it.
>CCA is actually hard to buy. You gotta go looking for it.
Reputable supply houses don't stock it, or mention it as a solution.
The kind of shops with CCA problems are not using reputable suppliers. Amazon is convenient and well-known to everyone. A C-level in these places will ask why you want to spend $300 on a spool when you can get one in Amazon for $25.
For the sake of verifying this, I searched for "bulk Ethernet cable" on Amazon and sorted by lowest price. This was the first hit. Note that it doesn't even say CCA on the box, you have to go to the description. In fact, the first 10 hits are either CCA or stranded.
To make it worse, all of these are eligible for prime shipping.
unless you are in a really old house, it is easy to do. And I recommend something like this near your switch.
https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Wallmount-Ethernet-N050-012/dp/B000067SC6/ref=sr_1_18?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1541083064&sr=1-18&keywords=patch+panel
That isn't for ethernet. It's for Telephone. That's why it says "4X10 Phone 110 Terminal". Even if they wired it with CAT5e (which many do because it's easier to use CAT5e for both then also carry around CAT3) it would only work as a hub, and not a switch. You would need something more like this
No trouble, it's single band as well which sucks balls, I'd not have bothered with a 50foot cable if I could reserve one channel for the PS wifi but I think Sony went a bit cheap on the wifi card to cut cost/price.
If you run into trouble with regular store LAN cables (you know ones that only stock 10foot cables) you can find super long ones on amazon etc [cheap-ish UK example] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/TRIXES-Network-CAT5e-Ethernet-Cable/dp/B004S6UWZ0)
Cable tester, RJ-45 crimper, jacket stripper, and 100 RJ-45 terminators:: $14
250 ft pull box, cat 5e cable: $21.50
Just make sure you get the color order right when crimping the modules onto the end of the cable. Getting the pattern right is not optional; just any old pattern won't do, even if they match on both ends. (Yes, really. It has to do with the way the wires are twisted internally, and avoiding "crosstalk" from one wire to another inside the cable.)
There should probably be a handy guide printed on the crimper itself, but if not, it goes like this: with the pins of the RJ-45 facing up and the retaining clip facing down, and the open end of the RJ-45 facing you, from left to right: white-orange, orange, white-green, blue, white-blue, green, white-brown, brown.
https://www.handymanhowto.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/TIA-EIA-568B-Ethernet-RJ45-Plug-Wiring-Diagram.png
You will screw up quite a few of these, most likely. Don't sweat it, that kit comes with 100 of 'em. Just make sure you cut your cable a few feet long to start with, and if it doesn't test out right, clip off the end you feel the least good about, crimp another one on, and test again. Still doesn't test out right? Then go clip the OTHER end off, crimp a new one on THERE, and try again.
You get the hang of it pretty quick.
It's not quite as bad as /u/Baneken says, once you get the hang of it.
But don't do that anyway. As others have said, you should have all the wires terminated to a single point, a wiring closet if you will. That termination should be to patch panel, like one of these, there are different sizes.
https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Wallmount-Ethernet-N050-012/dp/B000067SC6
At the wall, you'd have a single gang knockout ring (or a normal electrical single gang box, but the hollow low voltage ones are fine):
https://www.amazon.com/Arlington-LV1-1CS-Voltage-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B000UEAJWU/ref=pd_sim_60_6?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000UEAJWU&pd_rd_r=444PKXMFYMP91YT4VSM5&pd_rd_w=mXEmp&pd_rd_wg=qvgXv&psc=1&refRID=444PKXMFYMP91YT4VSM5
Then a bunch of keystone jacks and a wall plate.
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Cat6-Punch-Keystone-105384/dp/B019WKW9U2/ref=sr_1_8?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1498906038&sr=1-8&keywords=keystone+jack
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-106727-2-Hole-1-Gang-Keystone/dp/B002DI48NM/ref=pd_sim_147_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002DI48NM&pd_rd_r=A1ZWMZGZVRP2V1NT9MZV&pd_rd_w=DssNH&pd_rd_wg=JmKLq&psc=1&refRID=A1ZWMZGZVRP2V1NT9MZV
To go from the wall or from that patch panel to your equipment, you'd then just buy a pre-made (stranded) network cable.
There are some different rj45 jacks, which are designed to make the job a lot easier, but between the tools and the connectors being $2 each, it's not worth it. Those links are just for reference, so you can see what I'm talking about.
If your guy is just throwing rj45 jacks and letting the cables dangle like that out of a hole in the wall, then he has no idea what he's doing.
This would be my suggestion instead, and buy a small project a size sheet of plywood to strap this and anything else to.
https://amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000067SC6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492445352&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=N050-012&dpPl=1&dpID=41hQ9gMdexL&ref=plSrch
I ran CAT5e to the three bedrooms and to the entertainment center wall. One drop in the two small bedrooms, two drops to the master bedroom, and two drops to the entertainment center.
I terminated the rooms to Cable Matters keystones.
I'm using an Asus RT-N56U wireless router and a Trendnet TEG-S80g 8port gigabit switch with an Intellinet 12 port patch panel.
It's patched together with cable matters 3ft patch cables.
I have fiber internet service(no modem needed).
I had anticipated another cable run for a Ubiquity WAP, but after I tested the signal coverage from the Asus router it was not needed(full coverage everywhere in the house).
You've got Orange, Green, Blue, and Brown pairs. Smells like ethernet cabling to me. Looking at the cables themselves, it seems it's shielded, too.
My guess is that the cabling is being used for phone. You could likely convert one (or more) of them for network use. If there is enough slack, you could get a simple punchdown block like this one. The back of it is color coded, so it'd be easy for you to tell which wire goes where. Then you could get some Cat5/6 patch cables and a switch (or use the 4 port switch on your router) to make the RJ45's on the walls live.
One thing I'd do first, however, is pull the wall plate for one of those RJ45 ports and make sure a yellow cable is going to it. That way you'll be nearly 100% sure you've got the right cables in that wall box. :)
ITT: people pissed off about spending $10 for a 50 ft ethernet cable after spending $500-1,000 to go to QuakeCon including hotel rooms.
You don't need anything fancy. If you want to terminate the cable yourself (Better for custom length runs) just standard CAT6 UTP is good here is a link to 250' of cable. Here is a pre-made 50' CAT6 cable, though if you're running a cable through the ceiling it would be alot safer to make your own cable. The only reason to get shielded twisted pairs (STP) is if you're going to be running a lot of cables next to each other or running cables in a place with lots of interference, above fluorescent lights for example. Be careful you don't underestimate the distance, you'll really regret it when you come up 5' short.
50 ft cable is like 9$ on amazon. Bring a zip tie (or if you're fancy a velcro cable tie) and you're good, the bulk of your cable is rolled up next to your computer.
You just need about 5g of magic mushrooms, an ethernet cable and a lot of chutzpah.
if you need to get a Ethernet cable I would go with at least a Cat5e (since you wont be using anything that will require more then that can support). They're pretty inexpensive now, you can get a 25ft for ~$8
Amazon 25ft cat5e
I had the same scenario recently. I eventually ran my own cat5e cable from my living room router to my bedroom pc. I got the cable and borrowed crimpers from my work so it was free and took about 45 minutes to run the cable under the carpet/baseboards. My total length was about 57ft. I just googled 100ft pre-terminated (aka no crimping necessary) and they're very cheap
http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Cat5e-Ethernet-Patch-Cable/dp/B003RCEAB8
Not knowing the specific parts, I would say things look pretty marked up (fairly normal I suspect).
Cat5e is marked $50 but no true quantity (linear feet).
Amazon has 1,000 feet for $50 - I'd be shocked if you couldn't do your whole house with that - https://smile.amazon.com/Cat5e-Ethernet-Cat-5e-VIVO-CABLE-V001/dp/B0092TG310/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1483738965&sr=8-3&keywords=5e+cat
I think you're really paying for convenience here.
If you know the parts they're putting in you could price them.
Those cameras sound damn expensive... but I'm fairly novice at ip camera prices (but 1k for 4 cameras seems insane) - could totally be wrong though.
The fact that the cat5e cable is so marked up makes me think the other items are likely marked up accordingly.
This is cheaper but its CCA (copper clad aluminum), and almost certainly so are those cables you bought. If you want to make long cable runs use pure copper.
http://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Cat-5e-Waterproof-Outdoor-Underground/dp/B0092TJ4K2/
http://www.amazon.com/EZ-Bridge-2-4GHz-Outdoor-Wireless-System/dp/B004EI0F0O
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-SG108-1000Mbps-Desktop-Gigabit/dp/B00A121WN6/
Convince them to let you run an Ethernet cable. You'll need an outdoor cable like this to withstand weather.
First things first - the cable modem and the wifi router are two completely separate things. In your specific case, the two things are integrated in one device - but I highly recommend not doing so.
Comcast charges a ridiculous amount of money for the "modem rental". Are you renting your modem/router from Comcast? If so, I highly recommend buying your own cable modem and wifi router. You will recoup the cost in just a few months from the rental savings. I'm saying this from personal experience - after spending 3 times the cost of the modem for just the rental fees.
The cable modem is a device which connects to your Comcast cable and lets you connect your other home devices to the modem. Even the cheapest most basic DOCSIS3 modem will support speeds that far surpass the actual internet speed you will buy from Comcast - and these are super reliable devices - so just buy the cheapest.
For example, this Arris refurbished model is available for $30. Non refurbished is $50 - although refurbished is honestly just fine. Consider that I was paying 8 bucks a month for the modem rental while I could have bought my modem outright for 30 bucks.
Now for the wifi router. This is mostly the real reason why people complain of poor internet speeds. And often this is because of poor wifi coverage to begin with - i.e. the wifi signal is simply not strong enough in all your rooms. As someone else said, the best thing you can do is to place your wifi router high up and in a central location that has the best "line of sight" to most rooms. Typically a central passageway, mounted high up on the wall. You would connect to your cable modem with an ethernet cable, by the way.
In my case, upgrading to a better more powerful wifi router with 4 antennas (from 2) made a huge difference. From my experience, I can recommend this Asus model which has 4 antennas and costs $67. There are many other models you can research and buy. It has run non-stop for over a year without requiring a reboot or without any of the flakiness I had with my other router that would randomly shut down or reboot itself. Wirecutter recommends TPLink Archer C7 which also costs $70 and they say it has really good coverage. Avoid the more expensive "802.11 AC" routers. This AC technology is great but is honestly overkill for your needs, just as you don't need to buy some expensive cable modem.
By the way, you can also download an app on your phone that will tell you how good your wifi coverage is in different parts of your house or establishment. Just search for "wifi coverage" or "wifi analyzer" in your app store. As someone also said, there are some advanced tweaks you can do. See this article, if you are so inclined.
Lastly, besides your wifi signal coverage and strength and quality of wifi router, your internet connection itself needs to be reasonably fast to support multiple users. Nowadays, everyone is streaming videos and such on their smartphones so everyone "needs" high bandwidth or fast internet. And all these multiple videos streaming quickly eat up your internet connection's bandwidth. What is interesting is that there isn't that much of a price difference between the different Comcast options. Or to put it another way, there is no $40 or $50 option at all. 25mbps is quite low to be honest - at least when multiple people hammering away at your internet. It is not horrible or anything - in fact it is perfectly decent for average home use - it is just not blazingly fast. There is a $10 difference between 25mbps and 100mbps, and a $3 jump to 200mbps. So if you don't mind the extra $13, you are in serious blazing fast territory. Consider that Netflix takes about 3-10mbps, so you can imagine that 200mbps will give you a lot of room and speed even with multiple users logged in and streaming high quality video. Else, you can start with 25mbps after you make all the other improvements to your setup, see how it goes. Then you can easily upgrade to 200mbps if needed.
If you have an ethernet tester, I'd check it on both ends. I'd bet that there's a connection in one of your wires somewhere.
You need to get yourself a basic tester so you can figure out where you're going wrong.
You have to have a specific type of cable, called a crossover ethernet cable.
Regular cable won't do it, you'd have to have a switch in between to control traffic.
You can also get a dock that allows you to essentially turn your old HDD into an external. You can then hook it up via USB and move the files that way.
As u/manarius5 point out the cat-5 cable is setup as phone; and you will need to change it over to network.
Best option is to get a patch panel, a punch down tool, jacks, 2x WAP; maybe this one. You might or might not need a switch, you might also want to consider going with POE to power the WAP. You would also want to get some cat-5 jumpers.
Please make sure your parents are not using POTS( plain old telephone); if they are, you can still do this, but would need to proceed with caution. Install new wall jacks, install new punch down block down stairs; when punching down, follow the color coding for A or B, dosn't matter which, just keep it the same on both sides. Move Comcast modem next to the location in your pictures. Setup the WAPs on either side of your house, plug the Roku in hard wire. This setup would use 3 ports on the Comcast modem/router, so no switch needed.
If your parents are still using the phone, only move the jacks to network that you are going to use.
A more advance solution would be to go with a wall mounted rack, Ubiquiti equipment for router, switching and WAPS, buy a cable modem and return the Comcast unit.
then it is for phone. You may get a patchpanel, remove the wiring from the phone panel, and use a punch tool to connect it to the ethernet patch panel. You would need to run power to that location and connect each patch panel port to the switch/router that you locate there.
Note: this only works if all 8 wires were connected in the wall sockets. If there are only 2 of the 8 connected, redo them.
Punch tool: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FHBZJ20/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 )
Patch panel: e.g. https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Wallmount-Ethernet-N050-012/dp/B000067SC6/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1495168315&sr=1-4&keywords=patch+panel
I did the same in my apartment last weekend. There was already a patch panel for ethernet, but all wiring was connected to the phone panel.
I don't even think OP should have used an actual rack like that. The best thing for homes is a simple, wall-mount patch panel, which are inexpensive and easy to use. It's what I used in my basement. You can usually wall-mount a 5-port switch, too, they usually have those slots for screws in the back.
But if you really must have a 19" rack, you can get 4U wall mountable racks fairly cheaply, or a flush mount 1U rack, or if you need something sturdier. But I've seen those mounted; they stick out much further than you think they do when you picture them in your head.
Panel panel is great recommendation
https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Wallmount-Ethernet-N050-012/dp/B000067SC6/
Just need a 110 punch down.
For permanent installs, I recommend using a patch panel. Cat5 ends eventually go bad, and you never want to rerun a cable. Other than that, it looks great.
this ^
just to add to his comments. that enclosure panel looks like it's one of those "pre drilled" panels that has accompanying add-ons such as teleco, network, video modules that you can add on to. while i'm not a big fan of using those types of network components, you might look up the brand of the enclosure and see what's available for it.
or you can just get something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Wallmount-Ethernet-N050-012/dp/B000067SC6
...and screw it down with self tapping screws and just use that punch down tool you linked with the 110 blade. (practice first on a lower port if it's your first time using one of those... but they're fairly easy to use.... just keep it straight when punching down). same thing when punching down the Ethernet keystones in each room.
beginner's tip when punching down on those blocks: screw down the white bracket where you want it (make sure all cables reach first!). Then snap the punch panel backwards to give you a clear view of the back of each port. makes it easier to punch. then when you're done, un-snap it and snap it back the correct way. again... make sure cables all reach before screwing it down. if you have extra cable, i say punch it down with the extra then when you're done punching, push the excess cable back into the wall. depending on the height of the bracket, it's best to have a step ladder to get you chest level or so to the bracket... makes punching straight easier.
hope this helps.
Could do something like this as well.
https://www.amazon.com/INTELLINET-12-Port-Wall-mount-Compatible-162470/dp/B0009JGJF2
Looks like you have 12 ethernet cables there, this should do
http://www.amazon.com/INTELLINET-12-Port-Wall-mount-Compatible-162470/dp/B0009JGJF2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1454098133&sr=8-1&keywords=cat5e+panel
I'm not sure how much they charge these days but here's one for under $6.
http://www.amazon.com/Cat5e-Network-Ethernet-Cable-Blue/dp/B000QZ001I/ref=sr_sp-atf_title_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377282685&sr=8-1&keywords=50+foot+ethernet+cable
Running an ethernet cable through your house could be a cheaper and simpler than another modem, and faster (internet speed wise) than wireless or a powerline adapter. Even long cables are very cheap on amazon
5.49 on amazon http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Cat5e-Ethernet-Patch-Meters/dp/B001TH7GVE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1370700744&sr=8-1&keywords=15+foot+ethernet+cable
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Cat5e-Ethernet-Patch-Meters/dp/B001TH7GVE/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1411107880&sr=1-1&keywords=ethernet+cable
If you don't mind possible not-so-prettiness you could buy 50ft of cat5e cable for around $9..
If you have a gigabit connection you might want to go with cat6 or cat7, which are both more expensive.
Since you've said a PowerLine is not in your budget, I made this list of what I think are the best, most affordable ethernet cables that suit your needs. They're all on Amazon, available in white, 45-50 ft long, top rated, and will ship in 2 days with Prime.
I'm on mobile, so I apologize if these links do not work.
[Here] ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0057XC5C6?cache=26715fd010e0db5ccf49b22b075a4704&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1405304386&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1) is a 45 ft ethernet cable, low profile (1.2 mm thick) - $11.95
[Here] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001TH7GVE?cache=26715fd010e0db5ccf49b22b075a4704&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1405303814&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1) is a 50 ft Amazon brand ethernet cable - $6.99
[Here] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0016897GS?cache=26715fd010e0db5ccf49b22b075a4704&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1405303991&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1) is a generic 50 ft ethernet cable - $5.60 (43% off)
Edit - formatting.
whats your budget? a 50 ft ethernet cable is the cheapest, but if you don't want the cable running on the floor you can use MOCA which is more expensive
I caved and bought an ethernet cable and LAN adaptor for the Spongebob v Patrick Splatfest. Best $28.47 I've ever spent! I get additional value from it since I love playing MK8 online.
Most commonly a CAT5 cable. It's used to get internet from a wall Jack or router. Here's a link for our base and also diagram of it .
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001W28L2Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CROzDbFRG9BWA
Use a long ethernet cable like this https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Ethernet-Cable-Feet-Networking/dp/B001W28L2Y/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1501371690&sr=1-1&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_five_browse-bin%3A7800930011
https://www.amazon.com/WHITE-100FT-CAT5e-ETHERNET-NETWORK/dp/B002HJXGFS
Looks like $10-$15. Depending on where you get them. Menard's and Home Depot sell them if you (or your mother) would rather not buy online.
LAN adapter that I bought, and Ethernet cord I got to go with it. Haven't seen my speed drop under 70mbps since I got it.
Have you actually identified the source of lag? Not enough upload bandwidth? Old modem? Shitty wireless coverage? Bad wireless adapter?
A new router isn't going to magically fix the situation if the problem lies elsewhere. I will give you some recommendations for a whole setup replacement, just don't buy without doing some basic research to make sure it will solve your dad's problem.
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Edgerouter-ERLITE-3-Desktop-Router/dp/B00HXT8EKE - Capable of 1gb/s line rate.
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY - Get 2-3 of those for maximum coverage, space them apart evenly.
https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6190-DOCSIS-Cable/dp/B016PE1X5K - Fastest cable modem on the market currently.
https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Ethernet-Cable-100-Feet/dp/B003RCEAB8 - Get whatever lengths you need, make sure it is at least Cat5e. 100 feet Cat6 for $13 is a great price, get a couple of those if you aren't sure.
Head over to /r/homenetworking if you have any questions or would just like someone else to look over my choices.
Ideally you want ethernet cable ($13 for 100ft) but if that's not possible you probably want to look into a range extender (Netgear and TP-Link have some popular ones that just plug into a walloutlet). If you are going to use the range extender I would then at least try to have a wired connection to that.
Not really, I use a 50-foot ethernet cable. A wifi-adapter is like $35 or so and it's only decently reliable. This one here seems to have really nice reviews and it's less than $13 with prime.
Get one.
13 bux
Speed doesn't matter, you are going to have more hiccups on wifi than on ethernet and hiccups are exactly what you don't want because they make matches feel super laggy and shitty.
https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Ethernet-Cable-100-Feet/dp/B003RCEAB8/ref=sr_1_9?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1521658264&sr=1-9&keywords=ethernet+cable
Just buy a roll of this and run it to the room you would like to use it in.
To make it pretty, I would run the 100ft cable to the back of this
Get two more smaller Ethernet cables, run one from the outlet into this switch (any port on it) if you want more ports in the other room, and then the other short cable from the switch to your PC.
This would be the best, most professional way of getting Ethernet into your room. It'll be much more stable and provide better performance than a WiFi dongle.
Like... A network cable.
I bought a couple of these
Then just string em up or lay em on the floor and kinda tack em to the walls using small hooks or small nails after bending them a bit to hold the wire.
<3
Use this
The ethernet port is already attached to your network? If you plug a short cable from it into your computer you can connect to the internet?
If so, just... get a longer cable?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003RCI5A0/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518714083&amp;sr=8-11&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=ethernet+cable+100+ft
There's a 100 foot option, the Cat5e "spec" calls for being able to transmit across a 100 meter (328 feet) cable run, but that's the minimum. You can probably get substantially further than that, though performance may degrade.
Using a 2nd router will provide worse performance, cost more money, and significantly complicate setup.
My router is downstairs on the otherside of the house I have like a 50m ethernet cable
http://www.amazon.com/Wild-us-Tester-Crimper-Connector-Network/dp/B008UY5WL0
http://www.amazon.com/Cat5e-Ethernet-Cable-000ft-Cat-5e/dp/B0092TG310/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1416346085&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=ethernet+1000ft
http://derose.net/steve/guides/wiring/cat5split.png
Possible solution
Assuming you're not gonna be running the cable right next to a power line or anything else that will cause EMI, any Ethernet cable will do the job. I'd just go with some cheap cat5e cable. You'll get Gigabit speeds, it's cheap. Just pick a color that suits your home and staple it down.
New 1,000 ft bulk Cat5e Ethernet Cable / Wire UTP Pull Box 1,000ft Cat-5e Waterproof Outdoor / Direct Burial / Underground ~ VIVO (CABLE-V003) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0092TJ4K2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_p-PRAbWNNX603
Crimper $15
Connectors $7
Snagless Boots $6
Outdoor CAT5e $50
Cable Tester $8
Charging all your neighbors to wire up their Ethernet for $50 bucks a pop: Priceless.
All you need is a (cheap) punch down tool and some sort of a patch panel. It's really not that hard. If you have to pull any insulation back you might want to use a stripper. But you can probably just get away with small dykes. Just try and keep the twist as close to the punch down as you can---but it doesn't have to be perfect to work.
Also, there are two wiring standards 568A and 568B. They have to match on each end so you might want to pull one of your wall jacks to see how it is wired. Just Google for a wiring diagram to see the difference. Or your jack and panel might actually have both color coded on them and you can see which way they did the jacks.
I aways have used the B standard. IIRC the A standard provided backward compatibility with old AT&T standards. But if your jacks are A I would not change them to B.
Read this: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TIA/EIA-568 (TLDR is doesn't matter which wiring standard you use, as long as you use the same one on both ends of any given segment. You can actually mix and match the cables to make a single run, as long as each segment matches. The only "issue" this causes is mass confusion)
&#x200B;
Then buy a continuity checker like this: https://www.amazon.com/iMBAPrice-Network-Cable-Tester-Phone/dp/B01M63EMBQ/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=ethernet+tester&qid=1556113738&s=gateway&sr=8-5
&#x200B;
Then test all your runs. If won't tell you if the any of the pairs are error prone, but it will at least let you know if they are connected correctly to pass a signal.
Also, check out what that coupler is doing and make sure it is straight through and not a cross-over or roll-over coupler.
To questions 1 + 2:Nothing fancy. In cases where the category cable ends are already terminated with RJ45 connectors, something like this will work just fine, and where it's not already terminated, you can add your own connector and use the above coupler, or something like this. (Note: I haven't used these specific models, but they're all effectively the same thing)
The ISP's comment about running new cable and the quality not being good is a CYA move. The wire already in the wall might be damaged, in which case you'll know pretty quickly. An extra coupler will have negligible effect on normal home internet use.
If you're really worried, you can throw switches in instead of couplers, but they don't change the situation other than give you more ports at each junction.
#3: not a problem. Because it's behind the router (embedded in the modem), everything connected downstream (in your house) gets it's own local address, can talk within your network and out to the internet just fine. If the modem isn't also a router, then you'd have problems, but you'd already know.
#4: they make much fancier ones, but this gets decent enough reviews from what I can tell (again, haven't used this specific one). Plug it in on both ends, you'll know in seconds if the cable is good or not. If yes, you're in business and a coupler is all you need. If no, that's where the fancier ones come in and can tell you where along the wire the damage is and you could potentially splice and repair.
#5: leave as much slack as you can so you have cable left if you screw up or want to make changes later. Otherwise, don't worry, it's low voltage wire, only way to hurt yourself is to stab yourself with the copper wire ends.
Crossover cable isnt that hard to find if you cant make it, I'm sure a local place would have it as well.
https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-CAT5E-Crossover-Cable-feet-Red/dp/B000067RFT
I have no experience with adhoc wifi connection for gaming, but it could work.
This is a good idea. Even if they don't support it you can always go out and buy a cheap crossover cable
Few more details -
Are you just trying to connect 2 machines together? If so, you need a crossover ethernet cable.
Are you trying to add a 2nd computer to the same network that your primary machine is on? If so, you need a switch & a couple more cables.
Looks Krone to me. https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Wallmount-Ethernet-N050-012/dp/B000067SC6 Small 66 style patch panel block for cheap.
12-port wall-mount patch panel: https://smile.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Wallmount-Ethernet-N050-012/dp/B000067SC6
Your wall plate idea is also fine though.
Another option, but very much inline with what others have suggested, a 12 port wall-mount patch panel:
https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Wallmount-Ethernet-N050-012/dp/B000067SC6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1466764939&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=tripp+lite+12-port+wallmount+cat5e+patch+panel+568b+rj45+ethernet+n050-012
They come with their own mounting bracket and might be a little easier to work with in your situation. You won't have to buy any extra pieces to make that work in your wiring closet. Also, much cheaper (per port) than the Leviton equipment you were first looking at.
You can wall-mount some patch panels, might be a nice compromise for you. But no, you don't need it. You can just terminate your cables with RJ-45 and connect them where needed.
https://smile.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Wallmount-Ethernet-N050-012/dp/B000067SC6?sa-no-redirect=1&amp;th=1
I've used this one a number of times and have been extremely happy with it. BUT, it's only Cat5e and only 12 ports.
Maybe try something like this it's still only 12 port but if you want wall mount you could put two side by side?
Thanks. I found this patch panel from Tripp-Lite. Is this something I can do myself if I'm a total noob or should I bring a pro in to do it for me?
Normally you do not want to affect the signal level of the modem, relocating farther causes attenuation (loss) unless you use something higher than RG6. Are you able to login to it to see it's levels? I keep mine as close to service entrance as possible, cat6 to where it needs to go from there. I would supply them myself for quality purposes. And you dont wan't sharp bends, pinching etc. Bend radius should be 6".
All your wall plates should terminate centrally, normally to a patch panel or to an identical wallplate with keystone.
Leave yourself some/all drop ceiling. It helps for future upgrades or other service related work such as drains.
Best is to install a patch panel in the utility room instead of using RJ45 connectors. Make sure it says Cat5, Cat6 cable is a different wire gauge (thickness) Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Wallmount-Ethernet-N050-012/dp/B000067SC6
There you could also place a switch: https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16833122822
One of the jacks in your house would link that to your modem and then all the network jacks in the house will be active.
Once you get that sorted out you might want to consider 1-2 additional wifi access points at strategic locations to optimize wifi coverage.
> Can I change out the dsl or phone ports to ethernet since it's CAT5?
Yes, since it is Ethernet cables ran here, you'll just need to get different punch down block in the main box. So where all the Ethernet cables are centrally ran, you'd pull out that phone distribution block and replace it with the linked block and re-punch down each Ethernet cable to the block. You would then add a cable modem and router to this same area and then all the Ethernet cables would patch into the router's Ethernet ports.
&#x200B;
> What could I do with the two Coax ports? One is definitely for cable, but it seems to me there's a need for some kind of audio or video connectivity option since there's a panel behind the TV. Also around the TV are pre-wired surround sound panels that lead to a spot just above one of the weird double coax panels.
The double coax is for OTA antenna. Do you have an outside TV antenna on this house by chance? Or maybe in the attic of the house?
&#x200B;
Basically what the previous owner probably had was Satellite TV + OTA antenna. That is why you see two runs of coax at TV locations in the home.
&#x200B;
Really not much else you can do with them unless you want to take advantage of OTA antenna as well at cable TV.
Ok if you need this build now then what I suggested will do very good, the only reason to spend more time would be to drop the price by a few dollars, but you can get away with this one.
[Here is the switch I used] (http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-SG1005D-1000Mbps-Gigabit-Capacity/dp/B000N99BBC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1404190845&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ethernet+switch+10%2F100%2F1000)
And [Here is an alright 100 ft cord] (http://www.amazon.com/Patch-Ethernet-Network-Cable-White/dp/B000TYR5R8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1404190880&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ethernet+cord+100ft)
And I am guessing you really don't need 100 ft, so [here is a good 50ft one for less] (http://www.amazon.com/Cat5e-Network-Ethernet-Cable-Blue/dp/B000QZ001I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1404190921&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=ethernet+cord+50ft)
Also you need ethernet cords to connect to your PC so here is [A 7ft cord, overkill, but just in case] (http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-7-Feet-CAT5e-Snagless-Patch/dp/B00000J1V5/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1404190985&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=ethernet+cable+5ft)
Cheapest route = $25
Expensive Route= $30
This will provide much faster internet speeds, and after you set it up, much less trouble keeping it running.
Internet speed decreases the further it goes in wireless, and it decreases even more when it goes through objects, like walls and furniture.
Also, if there is a microwave in the way, like there is for me, it decreases much more when the microwave is on, as the microwaves mess with the signal.
Wired, it decreases slightly for longer cords, so get it as short as possible, but it still keeps most of it's strength.
My computer in my gaming room wireless can't connect to the internet most of the time, and when it can, the download speed is in the kilobytes.
When it is 10ft from my modem wireless, it gets 25mbs download.
When it is connected via ethernet, it gets around 55 to 65mbs download, it is much faster...
so for only $2 I can just get this instead of this?
50ft Cat5e Ethernet Cable which supports up to 1GB/s connectivity for the pricy sum of 6bucks off of amazon.com
Here it is.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000QZ001I/ref=olp_product_details?ie=UTF8&amp;me=&amp;seller=
I'm plugging it into a Motorola Surfboard.
If I was going to do this and didn't know how to terminate Ethernet cables and didn't have a big budget, I would get one of these plus two of these.
Put one surge protector at each end of the outdoor cable, and make sure the bolt hole in each surge protector is connected to an electrical ground with a good copper cable.
But it depends if you need something that is going to last a few months or if you need it to last multiple years.
This cable is meant for the outside: https://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Waterproof-Ethernet-Direct-Shielded/dp/B001B6DM52?th=1
You can run the cable on the outside of your house if you want.
You can run Cat5e outside for a little bit without issue. If you are going too far you might want to consider getting some conduit. I'm not sure how far you're talking but I'm guessing you're not putting it too far away. I'm sure you can either find a existing hole near where you want to put it, or you can drill through the wall. If you REALLY don't want to do it you can get it appraised from an electrician or something.
https://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Waterproof-Ethernet-Direct-Shielded/dp/B001B6DM52/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510721635&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=outdoor+cat5
well i need to make sure theres enough clearance for any traffic, its a personal driveway but still id hate for someone to run into it and put tons of force destroy the cable, or equipment. as far as cable, i was thinking of using something like this. https://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Waterproof-Ethernet-Direct-Shielded/dp/B001B6DM52/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497205103&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=outdoor+ethernet the distance i have to do is 30ft, and if it was buried it then id use at max like 35ft of cable, but if im stringing it across the 2 buildings then id probably go for a longer 100ft and if im at it and it's cheap enough run 2 at the same time. plus i've never used fiber before so im a bit lost.
Simply plug in the adapter to a USB port in your laptop. Then run an ethernet cable from the adapter to your router or a spot in your wall.
/u/jmnugent 100% correct. My 2 cents to add is if you think you need 7ft get 14. Nice to have some room for cable management. Also, I wouldn't buy at Best Buy if dont have to. They over charge. See if local electronics shop has it or order online. http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Cat5e-Ethernet-Patch-Meters/dp/B001TH7GVE/ref=pd_sxp_f_pt
Yes, sorry about leaving that out, I've tried two cables. One was brand new. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TH7GVE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
There are lots and lots of other sizes. I've bought ones as short as 1' and as long as 75'. The maximum length allowed is 100m. Here is a 14' one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TH7GVE
I'll get another cable then. Is there a particular brand that you recommend? I've been using this cable.
Here ya go.
Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!
Here are your smile-ified links:
ethernet cable
---
^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly&nbsp;bot
Here is 50 feet of Cat5 cable for just under $10. I also saw 100 feet for $8.75.
Yes exactly! Get everything on Amazon and save your self a lot of money.
Examples:
Mediabridge Cat5e Ethernet Patch Cable (50 Feet) - RJ45 Computer Networking Cord - Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001W26TIW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uimkybBX78TPQ
Securifi Almond - (3 Minute Setup) Touchscreen Wi-Fi Wireless Router / Range Extender / Access Point / Wireless Bridge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0087NZ31S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ujmkybTBWMKSK
Of course research for your self but these are two highly rated options I found in 30 seconds.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001W26TIW/
Just saying that wired is way more reliable and some routers have default qos settings to prioritize wired over wireless connections.
I've seen many cases where turning on the microwave would lose wifi connection... or a neighbor moved in with this silly 5 device mesh wireless network and now the spectrum is too crowded to get any more wireless networks in the area.
What he said. I personally use this cord.
Get at least a 25 ft. ethernet cable, you'll need to make sure you have the length in case your computer is on the opposite end of your dorm. Also, get a small, 19" or so, TV that'll be light enough to carry in between your home and dorm. If your university has cable, you'll want a coaxial cable to hook up your TV to it, and an HDMI cable (I recommend a flat cable) to hook your computer up to the TV to use it as a second monitor. You won't be able to game or anything, due to the refresh rate, but it will be perfectly fine for watching videos on Netflix/Hulu/Xfinity/Crunchyroll/Whichever video provider you use.
Would you like a falafel with that?
It seems you're very confused by what everyone is trying to tellyou so I'll try to break it down for you.
Your computer can connect to the internet either through a wired connection or wireless connection (also known as Wi-Fi).
Wired Connection
For a wired connect you need three things
An Ethernet/LAN port looks like [this] (https://dailykermit.files.wordpress.com/2009/09/pcback.png?w=700)
What you do is plug the Ethernet cable into both the modem and your computer into the Ethernet/LAN ports. The Ethernet cable passes the internet connection from the modem to your computer.
Wireless Connection
There are multiple ways of connecting wirelessly to the internet, but in your case you need primarily two things:
Because you don't have a wired connection to pass the internet on to your computer, you need something else so your computer can connect to your router. There are several methods of connecting to the internet but I'll cover the two most common ones for desktops.
If you install one of these on your computer, they will act as the internet receiver. What does this mean? Your router (which is the source of your internet) can connect to the internet receiver, which would give you a wireless internet connection.
Whether you want to connect to the internet through a wired or wireless connection is completely up to you (however most will suggest a wired connection because this is the most reliable type of connection).
Note: The links I provided were for educational purposes only and are not necessarily recommendations, however I picked them from the best-sellers list in Amazon for their categories so they aren't necessarily bad either.
Just about all of your premade network cables are going to support CAT 6 / CAT 5e / Cat 5. Here is one at Amazon. I don't know what kind of length you need, but they have different lengths.
I run my Xbox One off of wired and I have no issues. I trust a cable over wireless.
http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Cat5e-Ethernet-Patch-Cable/dp/B001W28L2Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1421988163&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=cat5+cable
Mediabridge Ethernet Cable (25 Feet) - Supports Cat6 / Cat5e / Cat5 Standards, 550MHz, 10Gbps - RJ45 Computer Networking Cord (Part# 31-399-25X) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001W28L2Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GODSDbHYTJD77
I just need a second opinion, would this LAN cable be good enough to connect my Switch to a wired connection? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001W28L2Y/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1DCPNQKKEISZB&amp;psc=1 Never bought one before, but I figured Nintendo's not known for the most stable online so I want to give my internet the best chance it can get. What do you think about the cable?
amazon.com
https://www.amazon.com/Cables4PC-Patch-Ethernet-Network-100FTCAT5WH/dp/B00SNP2HKK/
https://www.amazon.com/WHITE-100FT-CAT5e-ETHERNET-NETWORK/dp/B002HJXGFS
https://www.amazon.com/Cat5e-100FT-Networking-Ethernet-Router/dp/B01BMZ1O8I/
I agree that your 2.4GHz signal is likely being murdered with interference. Wired is clearly the best way to go for good speeds. The best solution for speed is to probably run a network cable of the appropriate length along your baseboards, using some tacks to hold it in place. Ethernet over powerline is a possibility, but powerlines aren't meant to do that, so results are varied. If you live in a newer building with newer powerlines and the breaker box for your apartment is located in your apartment, you'll probably get good speeds. If you live in an older building and/or your breaker box is located in the basement, then it likely won't work very well.
If you dont mind wires you could just get a long cat5 cable online. They sell cheap ones on amazon. You can get a 100 foot cable for $10. They sell even longer ones also. You just have to run it so that you parents arent annoyed by it. http://www.amazon.com/WHITE-100FT-CAT5e-ETHERNET-NETWORK/dp/B002HJXGFS
So I can plug this into it and it will work regardless of my keystones being wired as T568A?
https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Ethernet-Cable-Feet-31-399-10X/dp/B003O973OA/ref=lp_9938477011_1_8?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1570744075&amp;sr=1-8
i'ts a bit cheaper, but in the big picture, only by $1.30, so not really breaking the bank.
Thank you. Is Cat5e ok or does it have to be Cat5?
This is the one I found on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Cat5e-Ethernet-Patch-Cable/dp/B003O973OA/ref=sr_1_9?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480112487&amp;sr=1-9&amp;keywords=ethernet+cable
So ive been looking into everything.
Retro pie was a little tough but I got it. Kodi seems to be for streaming music and shows that I already have downloaded, correct? Am I able to go to youtube/twitch with that? And the roku stick is for netflix? Does that sound about right?
The pi seems to only have one ethernet port correct? And that will be used to connect to my computer so I can play games from steam? I didnt realize you can use ethernet as an hmdi cord thats pretty cool. I already have this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Cat5e-Ethernet-Patch-Cable/dp/B003RCEAB8?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00
Thats good right?
This might sound like a lot of work but at my old place I got this 100 ft ethernet cable for my Wii U and it still serves me pretty well. It was well worth it. Without a cable unless you've got amazing WiFi you'll probably run into a lot of issues that'll sap the fun right out of playing.
Here is a 100FT one. That should be enough, you can change to a smaller one if need be.
CAT5e is what you want - this would work: http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Cat5e-Ethernet-Patch-Cable/dp/B003RCEAB8/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452186484&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=ethernet+cable
yeah I just noticed it on website
also
http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Cat5e-Ethernet-Patch-Cable/dp/B003RCEAB8/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1425369879&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=ethernet+cable
Yes, my phone is connected via WiFi to the same router that I have an Ethernet connection with. This is the one I'm using.
I'm going to assume that this was/is a relatively easy run... get something for $10-15 off amazon. Monoprice works as well. Avoid CCA (copper clad aluminum) and go for pure copper if it's anything that'll be hard to install. Cat5e is OK but I'd suggest spending the couple of cents more for Cat6. If you're going to run electricity through it (PoE) go for a standard full sized cable. If you want to conceal it in plain sight and aren't using PoE, then thin cables are probably fine.
This is $15 and seems to check most of the boxes. https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Ethernet-Cable-100-Feet/dp/B003RCI5A0/
This is CCA at 10.50. Good enough if you don't want/need it to last 20 years. https://www.amazon.com/100FT-Networking-Ethernet-Patch-Router/dp/B01G0LUS90/
Honestly, I've been in need of a very long Ethernet cable due to the wi-fi in my room being incredibly spotty and slow, mainly due to bandwidth being split among several of my sisters' devices.
Full "Needs" wishlist: http://amzn.com/w/342Z45FF2MYKJ
https://www.amazon.co.uk/TRIXES-Network-CAT5e-Ethernet-Cable/dp/B004S6UWZ0/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1466982513&amp;sr=8-17&amp;keywords=cat5e+cableThis should do. And cheap.Actually after looking at reviews on that last cable, it might not be a good buy.
This one looks better
Regardless.. Here is a 50 meter cable that costs less than ten quid
I doubt you'd even need a cable of that length but Ethernet cables are really cheap.
If you wanna keep the cable in a fixed place, grab a hammer and some cable hooks and you're set. No issues with a dog or length in any room of the house.
If you can build a pc you can run some cat5e cable where ever you live. People say im just renting and I can't put holes in the wall and all other kinds of things. You can run it along the base boards using cable clamps or do any number of things to make it work. Just get some cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0092TG310/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T1_haCnzb6BHCV61 and here's everything else you need including the tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008UY5WL0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T1_DdCnzbFAGCRX7 so for about $50 you can run as much cable as you need. I would run one line to your gaming room and use a Gigabit Ethernet switch for everything in the room. A real gamer never uses wifi because they know about networking.
In most homes, the attic is a good place to start. In this process you'll need to cut a small rectangular hole in the wall to actually put something like this. Which holds this. Which connects to your internet source (whether it be cable or satellite) via some cat5 cable. (which you can buy small amounts of for much cheaper.) That you'll need to feed through the walls (from the top with assistance from gravity and because your internet source is most likely in the attic.)
See this article for more info.
Per 1000ft, the cabling shouldn't even be that much if you did it yourself.
Cat 5e
https://www.amazon.com/VIVO-CABLE-V001-Cat5e-Ethernet-Cable/dp/B0092TG310/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505422498&sr=1-2&keywords=cat+5e+spool
Cat 6
https://www.amazon.com/VIVO-CABLE-V004-Cat6-Ethernet-Cable/dp/B0092TK2U8/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505422309&sr=1-2&keywords=cat+6+spool
That seems a bit excessive to me in terms of per run based on the cabling alone as the work boxes, face plates and jacks don't even cost that much. Yeah I understand the contractor needs to make money. Is the contractor putting in a patch panel as well?
This is the best kind of cable to use, it should make it to ten years lifespan directly exposed to the weather:
http://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Cat-5e-Waterproof-Outdoor-Direct/dp/B0092TJ4K2/ref=pd_cp_pc_3
Something else not mentioned is using more cable to relocate your radios. Should be able to hit 150' no problem with the ubiquiti power injectors.
Okay, thanks.
If there wasn't available power in the campground, would this PoE injector, This AP, and this Cat5 work as my solution?
Bought this one from amazon. Cat 5e. I plan to run it through walls as well as outside along my siding, maybe slightly underground. Will this work for an outdoor POE security system? Do I need higher transmission rates of Cat6 or maybe different cable for heat generation?
VIVO New 1,000 ft bulk Cat5e Ethernet Cable/Wire UTP Pull Box 1,000ft Cat-5e Waterproof Outdoor/Direct Burial/Underground (CABLE-V003) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0092TJ4K2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ANQNBbQX0V2DQ
Thanks! Do you have a link? I found this VIVO Black 1,000ft Bulk Cat5e, CCA Ethernet Cable, 24 AWG, UTP Pull Box | Cat-5e Wire, Waterproof, Outdoor, Direct Burial (CABLE-V003) but don't believe that's it. And let alone I do not want that gell flooded mess. It's awful.
That is an Ethernet cable. Also known by a lot of other names. For home users it is usually used to connect a computer, printer or other device to a modem or router.
http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Cat5e-Ethernet-Patch-Cable/dp/B00EUHRLF6/ref=lp_464398_1_11?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1416176386&amp;sr=1-11
These cables seem to be pretty good quality, they have some longer ones if 15ft isn't enough
http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Cat5e-Ethernet-Patch-Cable/dp/B00EUHRLF6/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1426450095&amp;sr=1-5
also, looks like amazon sells W8 for a little cheaper than BH
http://www.amazon.com/Windows-8-1-System-Builder-64-Bit/dp/B00F3ZN2W0/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1426450153&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=windows+8+upgrade
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EUHRLF6/ref=s9_top_hd_bw_b1woI_g147_i2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-5&amp;pf_rd_r=WQR54VNGYAWQS6GTQ0PC&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_p=b61dcce2-4e92-506e-b0fd-91689ebf9ead&amp;pf_rd_i=464398
It would appear so.
Get a new ethernet cable.
Sorry that was a typo. 15 feet is 6 dollars plus shipping. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EUHRLF6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1526575768&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=ethernet+cable&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41nr4ElNA4L&amp;ref=plSrch
The advantage of using Ubiquiti stuff is the amount of info available: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=ubiquiti+nanostation+ptp
PtP means Point-to-point, which is the kind of link you want to do. You will need some outdoor ethernet cable and a crimp tool + connectors. A simple cable tester would be useful too to make sure the cable is OK.
Also, Ubiquiti uses passive PoE. Plug your injector correctly or it will fry your computer's network card!
Don't hesitate to contact me if you have any more questions!
Well this stuff is CCA and not ideal, but for what you're doing it should work fine:
Cat5e: https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Waterproof-Outdoor-VIVO-CABLE-V011/dp/B00GYGNCPO/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485195798&amp;sr=8-15&amp;keywords=cat5e+waterproof
Cat6: https://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Ethernet-Waterproof-Direct-Underground/dp/B00GYGQ31E/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485195187&amp;sr=8-1-fkmr1&amp;keywords=cate5+500ft
Anything that is bury-ready should last quite a while as long as you don't accidentally cut it with yard care equipment. Think aerator or something similar.
edit: added cat5e/6 options
Do you have a picture of the point in your basement where all the Cat5 wires come together?
There should be at least a panel there something that looks like this https://www.amazon.com/Dshot12-Cat5e-network-Mount-Surface/dp/B00NTWK8VW/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=cat5+panel&amp;qid=1550268373&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3 where all the ethernet cables connect to.
From the front of the panel there might be a bunch of wires that connect to a box (which will be a switch, or possibly a router). Probably not the switch and you'll have to acquire one. Once you have a switch then you'll be able to get the ethernet cables working.
Once you have done that, get an access point with an ethernet connection and use that in one of the rooms near your wife's office. that should give her the best connection. What would be better is to use ethernet to connect her device. That's the right way to do it if you can.
Each cable is for each room would this work You need to cut off the phone jacks and install CAT5e or better RJ-45 jacks with a punch down tool. Do this conversion at every place where you want network. Then in the basement you need to punch down the other end of each cable separately to a CAT5e or better patch panel. Then you need to run short CAT5e or better patch cords from the patch panel to an Ethernet switch. Finally you need to connect your router to the switch, either directly, or through one of the network jacks you installed in the house.
Cat5e should be plenty fast for home use.
Like the other guy said, you really need to get power here and a switch. If you want to do it right, you could terminate all the wiring into a patch panel, then attach those ports to your switch. That gives you a nice setup to centralize network equipment.
Examples:
Patch: https://www.amazon.com/Dshot12-Cat5e-network-Mount-Surface/dp/B00NTWK8VW/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?keywords=patch+panel&amp;qid=1572791966&amp;sprefix=Patch+&amp;sr=8-8
Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-SG1008D-Unmanaged-Gigabit-Network/dp/B001EVGIYG/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=8+port+gigabit+switch&amp;qid=1572792046&amp;sprefix=8+po&amp;sr=8-6
Edit:
Thinking more, if you absolutely can't get power in there you could probably do a PoE (power over ethernet) powered switch here, with a PoE power injector on another line.
Something like this in the closet: https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16833122614
Then the port on there for power would need to lead to something like this in another room: https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PoE150S-Injector-Adapter-Compliant/dp/B001PS9E5I/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=poe+injector&amp;qid=1572793212&amp;sprefix=poe+i&amp;sr=8-3
Honestly, on a 50ft run even cat5e would be fine. Save your money, you will not really benefit anything. So long as you arn't running it along side any power lines you wont see a difference. You will be able to link at 1gig on both types of wire in this scenario, and the limitations arnt until ~300ft. So you are fine either way. You may even consider just buying a 50/75ft cable and snipping the ends off if you plan to terminate them to keystone jacks in the wall. Keep in mind, if you get the spools, you will need a crimping tool/ends as well. And if you plan to terminate into a wall jack youll need a keystone jack, keystone plate, and punch down tool.
75ft cable: https://www.amazon.com/Cat5e-Networking-Ethernet-Patch-Router/dp/B01M230BEH/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499797322&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=cat5e+75+feet
cat5e: https://www.amazon.com/Cat5e-Ethernet-Cat-5e-VIVO-CABLE-V013/dp/B00O82K74K/ref=sr_1_14?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499797086&amp;sr=1-14&amp;keywords=cat5e+cable
But if you insist on cat6, this will work fine: https://www.amazon.com/Sewell-Direct-SW-29776-250-SolidRun-Content/dp/B00CH4EVY8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499797175&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=cat6+250ft
Source: Like 30 miles of all types of cables ran?
Good thing Amazon has something for everyone. It took me less than four hours to wire up 16 Ethernet jacks throughout our 2.5 story house when my wife and I first bought it.
Three lengths of Cat5e that are joined with RJ45 couplers. The cable was then tested to ensure that it is not miswired.
It's no different than if I ran a single length of Cat5e from one wall plate to another and then used another length of cable to plug into the router and satellite.
This tester is cheap and will help determine if any ethernet cables have a broken or defective wire causing the issue.
But as I said in my earlier reply, unless you have a switch with lots of ethernet going around to test, I would just grab some ethernet cables and test replacing existing wires.
there are cheaper alternatives. Not as fancy but they do work
The premade plate that I linked is actually a punch down style, the same thing /u/Rick91981 recommended above. That's not actually what I intended, though it will certainly work. The punch down is the better long term solution, but personally I think using crimp on RJ45 connectors is just fine for casual residential use. As you said, it's only a small basement.
I ran about 2000 feet of Cat 6 throughout my house during a reno. Just off the top of my head I'd estimate there were a good 40 individual lines. I wanted to verify that the lines were good before we sealed the walls, so I put the RJ45 connectors on every line, turning it into a cable and allowing me to use a tester to verify it was wired correctly (the first couple I did had a pretty terrible success rate, but it quickly gets better). Fast forward to after the walls are done and it's time for me to terminate the connectors. I could cut the connector off and use a punch down style plate like I linked, but instead I just got these, which is just a coupler; I plug my finished connector into the inside which sits in the wall, and on the outside I have a wall plate with an ethernet port. Worked great. Some say it won't be as durable, and if they fall apart in the next year I'll agree, but I really don't see that happening.
You're only doing a couple connections, so it's really up to you. A punchdown tool is actually cheaper than a decent crimper and stripper set (and a cheap crimper/stripper makes the process miserable), so I suppose it's the better option. Whichever way you go, terminate all ends into a wall plate. Then just use patch cables (little 1-3 foot cables you can buy premade) to run from the wall plate to your router/tv/computer etc.
Might as well add a cable tester to your kit. You're going to screw it up a couple of times before you get the hang of it, so be sure to cut the cables a good bit longer than you actually need.
iMBAPrice - RJ45 Network Cable Tester for Lan Phone RJ45/RJ11/RJ12/CAT5/CAT6/CAT7 UTP Wire Test Tool with Carry Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M63EMBQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0.lnzbG01SD0F
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M63EMBQ/
I purchased a commercial property and they didnt label any of the rj45's so I bought this to go around and detect what was what. Flawless!
Hello, great article. I’ve been having a hard time finding a basic guide for setting home a home WiFi network using Ethernet cables. Every room in my house has the cabling for it but I don’t know what my hub ought to look like coming from the Verizon FiOS terminal. This is where I will eventually have my smart home hub as well (haven’t gotten to research that yet). Do I need one of these: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Protection-GS105NA/dp/B0000BVYT3
Or this? https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Wallmount-Ethernet-N050-012/dp/B000067SC6
If not full article-worthy, any tips would be much appreciated. Thanks!
For some people this might look like a good deal. Nice packaging, printed documentation, all in a nice kit. There is a market for it and I'm sure they'll sell plenty.
The bright colors and fancy box do jack for me. And lets be frank. Most children, which this product is aimed at, won't care either what color the keyboard is or how nicely it's packaged. They'll only care what they can do with it, and there's already a huge community around the Raspberry Pi to give children cool stuff to play with.
You can spec out all of this stuff for almost $50 less and have the newer model Pi. Sure, for some people, this looks like a great deal. For me, without a screen/monitor, it's no good.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003RCEAB8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I ordered that one, though I can still cancel it. It says it supports Cat 6 and Cat 5. Someone else is also saying I should get Cat 7.
Does it matter if I don't have Fiber internet? I don't think I do, but I'm not 100% sure.
i am, cat5e. this one is $42, but not plenum rated.
https://www.amazon.com/VIVO-Cat5e-Ethernet-Cat-5e-CABLE-V001/dp/B0092TG310/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510623781&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=1000ft+cat5
Use of these to find out where each port goes
iMBAPrice - RJ45 Network Cable Tester for Lan Phone RJ45/RJ11/RJ12/CAT5/CAT6/CAT7 UTP Wire Test Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M63EMBQ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_TgO4DbFEJHTV6
Oh no.
use ethernet cable, thank me later
best 13$ of your life
Here's what I use. Highly recommended
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001W26TIW/ref=s9_ps_hm_b1woI_d99_g147_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-11&amp;pf_rd_r=0F3E9A2QQG3F7RXS8G57&amp;pf_rd_t=30901&amp;pf_rd_p=683ba663-0634-5041-8e5b-468a80508383&amp;pf_rd_i=464398