Best cat odor & stain removers according to redditors

get some enzymatic pet stain remover. Its designed for the job. https://www.amazon.com/Rocco-Roxie-Supply-Co-Professional/dp/B00CKFL93K

I agreed with everything up until the Nature's Miracle.
I have 7 cats and foster strays while they are waiting to be spayed. We have a back spare bedroom dedicated to these strays and needless to say, We have dealt with cat spraying and urine marking for a long, very long time. NM does not do the job.


I strongly suggest Rocco & Roxie enzyme cleaner.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J9MYM5O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


With Nature's Miracle we had to replace the carpet 2 times in that room.
With Rocco & Roxie --- never had to replace at all.


So the first part of your explanation is spot on.
But I would say use R&R for treatment.

I've had excellent luck with enzyme treatments, which break down the odor causing compounds into their base components.

https://www.amazon.com/Natures-Miracle-Destroyer-32-Ounce-P-5721/dp/B003I5QRJ2

Just be aware that it takes physical time for this to work. Mist it over the surfaces two, three, maybe four times a day. It will get rid of the odors in 72 hours, maybe more, if it is really a heavy concentration.

> Deep down, I know they're not going to be happy, as they'll just say we aren't financially ready for one and go on and on about how much time and money will go into the pup.

Those concerns are not unjust - I am surprised you haven't brought up your intentions before if this was premeditated/you were on a waiting list for a while. The best way to 'break the news' is just to be honest about it and why you choose to do it. You do not need to be argumentative - if you have properly prepared and are ready for the responsibility, it is not a difficult conversation to have. You should have plenty of money saved up if this was properly planned (at least $1-3k, plus puppy & startup costs at a minimum) and should have your schedules work out at your respective jobs to ensure that you will be able to let the puppy out every couple hours as needed (or have lined up a friend/family member/dog walker to help you out).

Make sure you have all the key supplies on hand - particularly:

• A crate (that can be appropriately sized)
  
• Food and water bowls (stainless steel)
  
• 6' non-retractable leash
  
• Appropriately sized harness & collar
  
• Dog tag with name and contact information
  
• a few toys
  
• a bag of high value treats (freeze dried liver is usually a good standby, but string cheese or hot dogs could also be used - you can play around to discover what your pup REALLY loves when they come home).
  
• A clicker (Recommended for training, but not necessarily required)
  
• Nature's Miracle Urine Destroyer
  
• 1 - 2 Puppy sized kongs
  
• Poop bags
  
  Avoid things like dog beds or soft bedding for the crate, at least initially. You don't want anything in the crate the puppy could pee on and push aside - you want to teach them to hold their bladder and to keep their space clean. Here is more information on crate training/house training.
  
  Training starts as soon as puppy arrives home. Start out with the basics like name/eye contact, potty training and crate training. You can also work on bite inhibition, capturing calmness, sit, & down.
  
  Be sure to get the pup to a vet within 48-72 hours of bringing them home for a wellness check (required by many puppy contracts and generally a good practice). You should also send in any AKC registration information, city licensing and start your pet insurance plan (if you choose to have one - it is highly recommended) within the first month or so of having puppy at home. Be in touch with your breeder and feel free to ask them questions - if you are working with a reputable breeder they should be happy to help you out if you have questions or concerns.
  
  As far as general care goes, there is a lot to cover - The Dog Training Wiki and Dog Training Textbook are good resources to get you started. Kikopup also has some really great training videos that are worth checking out. Here are some highlights:
  
  
• enroll in a puppy kindergarten/socialization class ASAP. You have a very short and critical socialization window from 8 to about 14 weeks. Work with a reputable club in your area (I don't recommend petsmart/petco). Here is a good starting point for finding a club near you.
  
  
• The rules as a cute little puppy need to be the same rules you expect of an adult dog. If you don't want him on the couch as an adult, he shouldn't be on it as a puppy - etc. Set your dog up for success by deciding what you expect of your dog and having everyone in the household be CONSISTENT with those rules.
  
  
• Training beyond kindergarten is also recommended - Aim for at least 1 or 2 additional obedience classes. I also would encourage you to try for the Canine Good Citizen by the end of your first year with your dog (especially if you want to do more advanced sport work as they get older).
  
  
• Avoid prolonged forced exercise (eg anything on leash). Walks should be kept short at first (5-10 minutes) and increased by 5-10 minutes for each additional month of age up to 30-45. Try to keep forced exercise on hard surfaces like pavement under 30minutes for the first year to help minimize any joint strain. Walk on grass as much as possible. Free play in a fenced in yard is OK (or on a long line if you live in an apartment).
  
  
• NO DOG PARKS. Not until at least 6 months of age. It can be a health hazard until your pup is UTD on all their vaccinations and it can be dangerous for your puppy to be interacting with unfamiliar/unpredictable dogs. Socialization is GREAT, but keep it with familiar dogs or in more controlled instances for the first few months. When the pup is older and HAS some basic manners, you can try going during off-peak hours/to the small dog side and slowly introduce him to the environment. You dont want your pup to be accosted by an unpredictable dog (which there can be many of in some parks) as it can cause serious re-activity/fear issues for their whole lives (and those are hard issues to iron out). Find puppy play dates with the Humane Society or other clubs outside of kindergarten, let him/her play with familiar dogs that are good with puppy's/well mannered, let them meet other (friendly) dogs on leash after they are done with their vaccines.
  
  
• Corgis can be prone to hip/joint/back issues. As such, things like jumping off high furniture or beds can cause some damage - from sore joints/pulled muscles, to things MUCH more serious like slipped disks. I would recommend investing in some dog stairs for any high furniture your corgi will be allowed on and training him/her to use them from day one.
  
  
• Understand the type of dog they are - they are herders. As such, expect some mouthiness, growling, weird sounds, and barking. These are rarely in malice - but rather their nature. If you are used to non-herding dogs, this can be quite a shift. Speaking for myself, my previous experience was with pointers, so transitioning to a herder was a bit weird at first. You are going to get chomped. You are going to have your dog make weird sounds in your general direction - don't freak out or think your puppy is aggressive - this is normal. You can curb all these behaviors with time and consistent training (just be sure to give it TIME. It will take months).
  
  There is a lot to know and a lot you will learn on the job, too. These are smart little bastard - do as much research as you can so you can be as prepared as possible. Owning a dog as an adult is much MUCH different than having a family dogs as a kid. It will be a shift!
  
  Good luck!

I strongly recommend this

http://www.amazon.com/Pet-Odor-Eliminator-Urine-Cleaner/dp/B00CKFL93K/ref=pd_bia_nav_t_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=17B1P1TPSC8PK1YH5B0V

My rabbits peed in a spot of carpet and rabbit pee is notoriously difficult to remove but this somehow managed to get it out weeks after the fact. Hope it helps!

If it is from Pet stains from the previous owners or something use this

It works very well. A cat of mine was having some health problems and stopped using the litter box. We used this and you can't smell it at all now.

Eco 88 will absolutely get rid of that cat pee smell.

Try this stuff - it's amazing.

Beautiful dog.

Do you use one of the enzyme sprays on the spot she peed? That sounds a lot like territory marking which can turn into a cycle/habit if you don't completely kill the smell (including smells you can't smell).

This stuff is awesome if you haven't been:

https://www.amazon.com/Rocco-Roxie-Supply-Co-Professional/dp/B00CKFL93K/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=484GBW13MWTD&keywords=dog+pee+spray&qid=1556117378&s=gateway&sprefix=dog+pee+spry%2Caps%2C172&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

Have you tried an enzyme cleaner and just let it sit? It might need to really get down to the floor boards to work. Covering up urine smell is really just a band-aid.

https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Strength-Stain-Odor-Eliminator/dp/B00CKFL93K

And are you sure it's just your cats that have done this? Did the apartment have air fresheners when you moved in it?

I recommend Ami Cat. Also available on Amazon

http://www.amipetfood.com/en/products/products-for-cats/amicat

My cat has been totally healthy on this diet. Sometimes I mix it with hot water. Has both L-carnitine and Taurine in proper amounts. When I started his diet I made sure to monitor the PH of his urine with PH chips.

https://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Health-Monthly-Monitor-Crystal/dp/B00AYT9ZXK

Recently he's getting tired of just eating Ami so I got Evolution cat chow and Evolution wet food to supplement. He's been totally happy. Tried giving him meat wet food after switching to the diet and oddly enough he wasn't interested.

I have a puker. Things that really improved his pukeyness was a cat supplement that helps them with their gut. (Links below) Its advertised to help with poop issues, but will definitely help with puke issues as well.

You also need to make sure that there is NO grains in his/her food. Cats shouldn't have any grains in their food. Lots of cheap pet food use that as filler. Secondly, a lot of cheap food uses sub par ingredients. Check your cats food for chicken by product. It's bad for them. Its basically all the parts left over from taking the good stuff from the chicken. Wikipedia defines it as "It is made from grinding clean, rendered parts of poultry carcasses and can contain bones, offal and undeveloped eggs, but only contains feathers that are unavoidable in the processing of the poultry parts." Sounds pretty yucky, huh? You wouldn't eat it, so why should you feed it to your cat?
Crappy cat foods use a ton of fillers that are basically the equivalent to a bag of cheetos to humans.

Switch to a brand that is grain free and uses whole meats such as the wellness I linked below. Blue buffalo is also a good alternative. Do you feed your cat wet food? If not, try feeding a good wet food (Linked below). My cats love the core wellness wet food and really eating wet food is better than an all dry diet.

All this stuff is a little pricey, but its worth it in the long run. Taking him to the vet all the time is probably more expensive than switching to a better food. Do it slowly as well, like over a week or two.

Basically anything you can find in your grocery store's pet isle you shouldn't be feeding your pet. Its all junk. Even the "high end" purnia foods. Junk. I know purina makes a sensitive stomach formula for cats. I tried it and it didn't help my furry little puke machine at all. All these crappy foods don't really fill your cat up as much as a good food will so they will be hungrier more often because the quality of the food is just crap.

How I solved my cat puke problem was feeding them wet food in the morning and evening and leaving out a small bowl of dry food for them to snack on throughout the day. If your cat isn't really super hungry than they will eat a bit slower and that'll keep her from throwing up. Some cats don't handle the self regulating diet and instead just end up eating more food, so figure out if your cat(s) can handle grazing between wet food meals.

You can also try getting a cat water fountain and placing it somewhere separate from their water. Cats are weird and don't like their water near their food. Cats get most of their water from their food but having a flowing water source can really help them up their water intake. If cats don't get enough water they are prone to developing kidney and bladder problems. The Drinkwell Platinum Pet Fountain is really good. I have mine in my bathroom and my cats really enjoy playing with the water and getting their paws wet and licking them etc etc.

As for the stains, the stain remover I linked below is a god send. It's a good product that cleans up stains really well. It even does cat pee. I have light carpets and this stuff takes it right out and leaves no marks behind. It should even work on your old stains, you just have to leave it a little longer.

I know all this stuff adds up to a ton of money but its so worth it not to have to clean up cat puke all the time. I did a ton of research for my puke machine and he went from puking 3-4 times a week to puking maybe every 3 months and then its usually just a hairball. His coat also looked better and he was softer.

Let me know if you have any questions. I'd be happy to help you figure this out and field any more questions about how I solved my cats puke problems.

Wellness


Core Wellness Wet Food


Stain Remover


[puke helper](
http://www.amazon.com/Purina-Fortiflora-Feline-Nutritional-Supplement/dp/B001650OE0/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1368101518&sr=1-2&keywords=fortiflora)

Cat Nutritional Supplements

Oh girl. I'm sorry.
Nature's Miracle has always worked for me. https://smile.amazon.com/Natures-Miracle-Remover-Lavender-32-Ounce/dp/B008RGWFRA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485530492&sr=8-1&keywords=natures+miracle

Give this stuff a try: https://www.amazon.com/Zero-Odor-Multi-Purpose-Household-Eliminator/dp/B001J0C3OQ

It's like a super concentrated Febreeze, but it doesn't really have a scent, it just gets rid of any bad smells. I'll spare you the details, but this was the only thing that worked when I was dealing with an EXTREMELY foul pet related odor. I've used it on other things since then, and it works very well.

Just fyi this stuff works really well for getting rid of literal cat pee.

> Do you have any recommendations for a good enzyme cleaner?

I'd suggest trying Nature's Miracle - just tried it for the first time on a recommendation from our vet, and that stuff is great!

Great review! I was in between OC and Bank for a Epi Neverfull. If you don't mind me asking, why did you choose OC over Bank?

Also for the smell, a lot of people have suggested spraying the bag with Zero Odor spray (new to reddit and don't know how to actually link things inline, but here's the Amazon link for it: https://www.amazon.com/Zero-Odor-Multi-Purpose-Household-Eliminator/dp/B001J0C3OQ ). Best of luck beating it!

https://www.amazon.com/Rocco-Roxie-Supply-Co-Professional/dp/B00CKFL93K/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=rocco+and+roxie+stain+and+odor+eliminator&qid=1563673713&s=gateway&sprefix=rocco&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

A few years ago my cat had bladder stones and she peed on my bed a lot. This stuff got the smell out, but be careful not to breathe it in when you spray it. It's pretty harsh.

Edit: good luck. Cat urine is pretty much the worst smell.

I haven't tried these but heard good things about them on other forums and the reviews are very positive, especially since Nature's Miracle switched scents and ruined a good product. Just a few suggested Amazon links that might work well for you. Not sure if anyone else can suggest them or not.

Rocco & Roxie Professional Strength Stain & Odor Eliminator: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CKFL93K/

Sunny & Honey Pet Stain & Odor Miracle: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J4Z5B24

Zero Odor Pet Spray: https://www.amazon.com/Zero-Odor-Eliminator-Trigger-ounces/dp/B0049PBWEA/

Bubba's Rowdy Friends Pet Supply Company Pet Stain and Odor Remover Enzyme Cleaner Spray: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GK56SVE/

Your call if you want to drop this problem in the landlord's lap or not. It really is his problem, and not yours.

That being said, if you want to handle this yourself, one thing to try would be an enzyme product, such as Nature's Miracle. Breaks down the odor causing compounds, eliminating them permanently. Trouble is, this does not work immediately. You are relying on a biological action, and may take a few days to handle all the compounds:

https://www.amazon.com/Natures-Miracle-Remover-Lavender-32-Ounce/dp/B008RGWFRA

• Move his poop to the litter box when he poops elsewhere
  
• When you see him going, immediately take him to the litter box
  
• Try "cat attract" litter
  
• Rule out a medical problem with a visit to the vet - he could have urinary issues causing him to pee elsewhere.
  
• Make sure you have at least two litter boxes. Put them in easy-to-find areas.
  
• Clean up the areas he pees/poops in with an enzymatic cleaner ASAP, so that he doesn't smell his waste. This will help him learn where to go.

I have a cat that has marked its territory somewhere she shouldn’t have (carpet), have you heard of this?

Rocco & Roxie Supply Professional Strength Stain and Odor Eliminator, Enzyme-Powered Pet Odor and Stain Remover for Dogs and Cat Urine, Spot Carpet Cleaner for Small Animal, 32 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CKFL93K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2SrRCbR36TB34

The thing with cat pee is that they still smell it even after cleaning it out with vinegar and or baking soda so their pee needs a enzyme cleaner like the one above, the reviews are great however I haven’t boughten one cuz I can’t afford it now.

There's a brand called Nature's Miracle that actually does work miracles. It has enzymes in it that specifically target chemicals in cat pee, or some such magic.

We had the same issue and a combination of three things worked with us.

1. Enzyme Eliminator: http://www.amazon.com/Professional-Strength-Stain-Odor-Eliminator/dp/B00CKFL93K. I had success with Nature's Miracle as well.
   
   
   
2. S-Coe (the most amazing remove any odor eliminator in the entire world you can seriously bathe a skunk in this stuff!): http://www.scoe10x.com/
   
   
   
3. Scent Masker (this stuff is amazing, but get the Heavy Duty or the black label only): http://febreze.com/en-us/products/products-by-type/noticeables

https://www.amazon.com/Rocco-Roxie-Supply-Co-Professional/dp/B00CKFL93K/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=UZKBMTDUW8W1&keywords=cat+urine+enzyme+cleaner&qid=1550497354&s=gateway&sprefix=cat+urin%2Caps%2C136&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

This is the best spray I have ever used. I have two cats. You can purchase a larger amount. It should take care of the cat urine smell even if it is dry.

You want to use [this shit] (http://www.amazon.com/Eco-88-Stain-Odor-Remover-Training/dp/B0013R2B88/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1456851599&sr=8-1&keywords=eco+88+pet+stain+remover). It is, in fact, the shit.

It works. I promise. I've used it to get cat pee out of the dog beds, out of my bed, and out of my brand new rug. No stain, no smell. It also has gotten red wine out of apartment carpet and a white bathrobe. And, you can use it as an air freshener--when this really smelly dude did some repairs in my house, he left a stank trail and I just sprayed that around and the smell was gone. I worked at a vet clinic for 12 years, this stuff even works on anal gland goo.

Make sure that you completely saturate everything and it may take a few applications, but it will work. I have never gotten close to anything that works as well as this shit.

You mentioned that they're both declawed? Declawed cats unfortunately can have lingering pain after the surgery, and that sensitivity can last for life. You have to make sure that you have a more fine litter for them to step on so it doesn't hurt.

The ASPCA addresses cat litter problems with the 20 most common causes of problematic peeing:

>One in every 10 cats will have a litterbox lapse in his or her lifetime. The 20 most common reasons are:

>The cat is suffering from a medical problem involving the urinary tract.

>The cat experiences a bout of geriatric constipation.

>The caretaker does not keep the box as clean as the cat wants it to be.

>The owner changes the brand or type of litter.

>The owner changes the location of the litterbox.

>The owner switches to deodorized or perfumed litter.

>The owner buys a new box and throws out the old one.

>The owner cleans the litterbox with too harsh a cleaning product.

>The location of the litterbox is too busy or not private enough for the cat.

>The home is too large for just one litterbox.

>The cat inadvertently gets locked out of reach of the litterbox.

>The cat is kept from using the litterbox by another animal in the house.

>There are too many cats and not enough litterboxes.

>There are too many cats and not enough territory.

>Stray cats can be seen/smelled near the cat’s territory.

>The unneutered male cat has come of age and is marking his territory.

>The unspayed female is in heat and advertising for suitors.


>Over time, the cat has developed an aversion to the texture of the litter.

>The cat was never properly trained to use the litterbox in the first place.

>The cat is stressed by a change in routine or environment, including a new baby, new furniture, work schedule changes, vacations, overnight guests or a move.

I think it also would be worth it to invest in an enzymatic cleaner for the urine spots and a UV flashlight to find them all. I find that once a cat pees in an area and that spot is marked with their scent, they'll repeatedly go there because it's okay for them.

And if one cat is especially having problems with urinating, it'd definitely be worth it to see a vet about that. If it's a lifetime problem, there are cat diapers available.

I have a cat with a history of UTIs and bladder stones. She's peed on plenty of my stuff, including the couch and mattress. The one thing I've found that completely gets rid of the smell is Ceva Urine Away.
It's pricey, but I think it's absolutely worth it. You will have to soak the spot where he peed which will probably take a few days to dry. Put a fan on it to speed things up.

Good luck! And you're awesome for dealing with kitty's issues instead of getting rid of him.

This stuff works wonders.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CKFL93K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Eb.WDbP7G1KA1

My daughter had pet dumbo rats that got loose in her room and it took 3 weeks to catch them. They pooped and peed everywhere and it made her quite sick with a respiratory infection!

We put out humane traps that we got from Amazon to catch them with banana and peanut butter in them for bait. It took about 3 tries to get themrat trap both.

We then used this cleaner to get rid of the left over feces and urine smell. enzyme cleaner

And the fruit fly infestation needs addressed ASAP! Make sure there is no standing water in the kitchen or other sinks, food left out, fruit left out uncovered, and you hang up multiple strips and change them often and move them around so they don’t start avoiding them. We used this kind over our rabbit cage and sink. fruit fly trap

All you can do is disinfect, deep clean, air the place out and really focus on humanely catching the pet rat and rehoming it or getting it a safe cage/aquarium home with lid.

Good luck and I hope you can get things improved for you and everyone. ❤️

First step is cleaning and vet. Take both cat's to the vet because sometimes this behavior is due to bladder infections, kidney issues, UTI's.. etc. It is essentially them saying "Hey something is wrong".

Get a good Enzymatic Cleaner and start scrubbing. Everywhere they have peed on the floor (or pooped). Buy or use a good scrub brush and some rubber gloves and just get it really good.

Next step is to clean out the litter boxes and put fresh litter in both (you really should have 2, 1 for each cat) but save some poop (just one scooped bit) from them and put it in the fresh one. It kind of helps them with association. Make sure the litter boxes are big enough for the cat's (1.5 cat lengths long and 1 cat length wide). Also make sure they are in low traffic areas of the house or covered (even kitties like privacy).

If none of this works then I honestly don't know what else to do. This is all the things I have done and they have worked in the past when we had kitties that had bathroom issues. Good Luck :)

• For future reference: for each cat you have, make sure to have +1 litter box for the total amount of cats you have. For instance, you have one right now? Try to have 2 if you have the space for it.
  
  
• Doggy bags have been great for us when cleaning our cat's litter contents (lol), but we also invested in a litter genie which is honestly the best purchase. This litter deodorizer comes at a close second.
  
  
• The Furminator is great for brushing, but some cats don't like it. Mine likes the Kong Brush, but we also tested out grooming mitts and fine tooth combs too. It completely depends on your little one.
  
  
• I've seen a few comments on r/pets about Blue Buffalo dry food being tied to more urine crystals, but I generally try to limit how much dry food I give my cat since she doesn't tend to go to her drinking fountain as often as we'd like.
  
  
• If you haven't already got a cat tree/scratchpost/tower, check out your local Marshalls or TJ Maxx. They have really great options and for much cheaper than some pet stores and they're usually assembled.
  
  

You'll have to keep sniffing around until you find it. Look for darker colors, different colors. Also check the closet and behind furniture. Don't forget the walls themselves as possible sources.

You'll want to get an enzymatic cleaner, it breaks down the odor-causing chemicals in urine. If it's cleaned thoroughly, the animals won't think of it as a place to urinate. I use this one:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058HRTCC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

It comes in different sizes, and there is an orange scented one too. What's nice about this one is that it has a powered sprayer, so you don't need to wear your hand out, plus you're sure of coverage. Better to go overboard than to use not enough.

I'm not a pro detailer but since I'm just sitting here procrastinating I'll share a few things I've seen posted here before. All are on top of a good interior cleaning and replacing the cabin air filter.

Steam cleaning the vents really helped in my car (I smoke sometimes). I have an old Mcullouch Mc1275 and have This on the way. If you don't want to buy one you might be able to get a detailing place to do it for you for cheap. It doesn't take long, just proper equipment.

Cleaning the headliner. Never thought of this before but it's frequently mentioned here. I tried it last weekend and it helped.

I've seen This deoderizer listed several times but haven't tried it. I have used ozium to cover up smells temporarily, it works and is available at walmart. Add an air freshener on top of that.

Cleaning the engine might help.

Or you could just pay to have an interior detail done. That's what many people here do and will likely be much better than an average cleaning.

Oh no, that's terrible. I had a cat that was like this. He'd keep peeing on the same spots on a rug and I had to re-train him.

You need to spend a few strict days with her litter training her again. After eating, after waking up from sleep and after playing take her directly to the litter box. If you notice her drinking a lot of water or something, take her to the litter box. Make sure it's not next to an unpleasant place like a washing machine or the trash. Cats don't like loud or pungent smells and their nose is really sensitive. Also make sure to keep the box in the same place and if it makes sense in your situation, have two littler boxes in different places in the house. Also, if you're using an enclosed litter box, take the top off while you train her, until you feel confident that she's using it consistently.


You also need to spot clean everything she has peed on. Rocco and Roxie's pet odor and stain remover is what I use and I have 2 cats and a puppy. It works great! It really gets in deep to rid of the scents we people can't smell but animals can. Cats, specially dominant cats, tend to pee over the place where they peed previously because they have claimed it as theirs. If it smells like urine they're likely to go pee on it again.


Also, keep your parents bedroom closed and off-limits as often as you can. It's possible to train a cat to not go into a certain room. None of my pets are allowed in my computer room unless I'm in there and they avoid it even when I keep the door open.


You can also ask your vet. It might be something else that is bothering her, maybe her food or maybe the litter that you use. Try different things. Some cats don't like scented litter or chaulk-y litter.


Good luck!

Oh we are very well aware of puppy accidents Our dogs are older now but we've had dogs all of our lives. We are in our late 60s so that's a lot of dogs, many puppies and pee!

http://www.petmd.com/dog/care/evr_dg_tips-for-removing-dog-urine-smell-from-carpet


https://www.amazon.com/BUBBAS-Steamer-Carpet-Cleaner-Gallon/dp/B00JT4VP3Y/ref=pd_sim_199_1/159-1326477-3422410?ie=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00JT4VP3Y&pd_rd_r=K6TVCEQXJDN092ZEKXW0&pd_rd_w=0c5m5&pd_rd_wg=6HzeT&psc=1&refRID=K6TVCEQXJDN092ZEKXW0


First link from PetMD with various suggestions.

Second is from Amazon and lists a good enzyme cleaner (there are others to check for but this is one to think of)


Good luck with Grandma's carpet. Would be nice to get it all cleaned up in her memory :)

The best way to prevent doggy messes is to immediately start crate training. Get your dog used to the crate, and over time you can slowly let your dog have a bit more freedom in the apartment. And if he's out for play or hanging out then you have to supervise him and hopefully distract him and take him outside if you see him about to start his business.

You can get an odor/stain remover and have that handy for accidents. As far as killing the carpet, you have to let them know that there are better, more fun alternatives.

Zak George's Dog Training youtube channel is a good place to start learning, imo. But honestly, I can't stress crate training enough. You have to teach the dog where it's okay to go.

This is what you're looking for. I had it wrong - it's 'Zero Odor'. But the stuff works.

Your standard oxi-clean should be fine.

https://www.amazon.com/OxiClean-Versatile-Stain-Remover-7-22/dp/B005GI8UOO/

You can also try using something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Angry-Orange-Eliminator-Industrial-Strength/dp/B00OI20SXA

I don't know about salvaging your bag (take it out back and hose it down?) but you should be able to do a bathtub brew to clean your gear like normal.

Fill with hot water, put gear in with laundry detergent. Let sit for an hour or two, stirring occasionally. Drain water, wash gear to remove suds. Re-fill with hot water and let sit again for an hour or two. Drain water, re-fill and repeat with Oxi-clean/pet stain remover thingy.

Once done, hang to dry all your gear in the bathroom with the bathroom fan on.

Once you are through this process, rotate dryer sheets in your bag weekly to help keep the smell fresh.

First, you need to identify if it's a behavioral or medical issue. Medical problems are the most common cause of going outside the litter box.

If it's behavioral, a whole host of things could be the cause. It's possible your cat doesn't like its litter, its litter box is in a place not easily accessible, or somewhere the cat doesn't feel safe, or it doesn't like the box (too small, covered, uncovered,etc...). Lastly, make sure you clean the box everyday, sometimes if it gets too dirty a cat will stop using the box.

While you're trying to figure out the cause you can (if feasible) place aluminum foil over the place your cat usually pees, they don't like the sound/feel and will avoid going there. Get a good urine/feces enzyme cleaner. It will remove any remaining scent that your cat may be drawn to. One like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CKFL93K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_h1ftDbCQBJG9E

Good luck, hope this helps!

You could try giving all the removable parts (if it's a bagless)a good washing in an enzymatic cleaner, and use the leftover to spray down whatever other parts you can reach with a spray bottle.

This stuff is the bomb diggity. It saved my sofa after a certain Rottweiler got a little too excited about guests.

I have heard good things about Nature's Miracle, but also heard that they are not what they used to be. This was recommended to me as a replacement, and it's worked well in my home:

http://www.amazon.com/Professional-Strength-Stain-Odor-Eliminator/dp/B00CKFL93K

if youre using a smoke buddy that still has a good filter you should be good, the smoke buddy gets rid of pretty much all the vapor.
If its just the mb smelling that you want to get rid of, I'd recommend an odor eliminator, I get this one and just get a new one every 2-3 months.

https://www.amazon.com/Natures-Miracle-Cat-Urine-Destroyer/dp/B072Q126DN/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1XL7F093PL7J8&keywords=nature%27s%2Bmiracle%2Burine%2Bdestroyer&qid=1568306924&sprefix=nature%27s%2Bmir%2Caps%2C163&sr=8-6&th=1

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My cat occasionally pees where he shouldn't. This gets the smell and stain out every time.

try something like petzyme
https://www.amazon.com/Petzyme-Remover-Eliminator-Enzyme-Cleaner/dp/B00L4OTN68

Uses enzyme to remove odors. If it works for animals it most certainly will work with humans.

I've used a charcoal-based thing in the past and it really worked great. I put it under the passenger seat. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/DampRid-FG69LV-Genie-Lavender-Vanilla/dp/B00CBLW0XG/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1500916906&sr=8-8&keywords=charcoal+air++rv

Ah yes, eau de dog wee.

There are special enzyme cleaners for pet accidents that actually work pretty well.

I've heard good things about this one from people at the kennel where I used to work, but haven't used it myself.

She will forget it soon enough. Just be patient and let her set the pace of any contact and decide where and for how long. You can pretend to ignore her a bit when she seems curious about you; this makes her feel braver about coming closer bc she doesn’t think you’re going to try to grab her. You can try napping on the floor in the room where she is. This does the same thing.

I might recommend keeping her in one room that has no real hiding places. I mean, places she’ll feel unseen and secure are fine, but nowhere she can go that you couldn’t get to her if you needed to. Then hang out with her as much as you can, ignoring her and letting her feel comfortable with you. Try holding a cat dancer and let her play with the bouncing end without looking at her. Just read a book or something.

Don’t increase her territory until she has begun coming to you and seeking you out looking at your face and talking when you come into the room. Tail high and curved at the top, maybe marking you. This is her showing her bond to you. Then increase her territory a room at a time or as slowly as you can, using the same criteria. She needs to keep her bonding up, using the litter box faithfully, eating, drinking, and engaging in interactive play with you (like with a cat dancer).

As for the spraying, clean the area really well, thorough all the layers of flooring or walls that are affected. Use fizzion Fizzion Pet Stain & Odor Remover 23oz Empty Spray Bottle with 2 Refills (Makes 46oz) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009Z0TQNS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Pu4ACbEQ0TRMJ or get serious (which seems to be unavailable in a lot of places but is my favorite http://www.shammysolutions.com/page/423461722 ) to get rid of the smell. Keep the litter boxes as clean as you can and filled with a couple of inches of litter they like. Keep a nice big sturdy scratching surface pretty near the litter boxes. And consider confining both cats (together or separately, depending on how well they get along) until that’s resolved and you’re sure everyone’s litter habits are good.

I hope that helps. I’ve totally been there with the medicating. Pill guns are great if you ever have to do this regularly, and lots of meds can be compounded and flavored. Don’t be afraid to ask your vet for an alternative form of a medication. And consider finding a house-call vet.

Use a black light to find the areas that need to be treated. Then use enzymes to make it go away for good:

https://www.amazon.com/Natures-Miracle-Destroyer-32-Ounce-P-5721/dp/B003I5QRJ2

I use an industrial chemical called Consume by Spartan Chemical but it's not going to be available at any normal retail store, only janitorial supply companies and stores. You can probably find a different enzymatic cleaner at your local supermarket, they're usually marketed as cleaners for pet messes (OUT!, Nature's Miracle), but they work as well on other organic matter.

Here's one available online: https://smile.amazon.com/Professional-Strength-Stain-Odor-Eliminator/dp/B00CKFL93K

Use some baking soda to soak up the wetness, then vacuum.

Next, use some enzymatic cleaner to get rid of the smell.

If you own live with cats, you should always have some of that cleaner around anyway.

Yup, that's probably what is happening. Get an enzymatic cleaner. Something like this.

You cannot prevent pet accidental peeing, Fortunately you can clean it up almost entirely with very little damage.

First thing you will need is a small portable black light, For identifying where the spots are.

Second you will need an enzyme cleaner to remove the urine completely. http://www.amazon.com/Pet-Odor-Eliminator-Urine-Cleaner/dp/B00CKFL93K

Third you will need something to get the enzyme cleaner into the carpet and padding underneath, http://www.amazon.com/Marinade-Injector-Syringe-Cooking-Poultry/dp/B008Y9GS7S

In a darkened room a black light will cause the urine spot to glow, Fill the injector with enzyme cleaner and then inject into the carpet and pad, The enzyme will eat the urine completely and then die off.

Good luck and love your pets.

You need an enzymatic cleaner or one that will break down the molecular structure of the mildew.

Something like this - https://www.amazon.com/Rocco-Roxie-Supply-Co-Professional/dp/B00CKFL93K/ref=sr_1_21?ie=UTF8&qid=1536852308&sr=8-21&keywords=carpet+cleaner+spray

Pour like half the bottle onto the area where the smell is occuring. Let it sit for 20 minutes then get up all the moisture via shop vac or other carpet cleaner. Get it as dry as possible. the smell should fade away within a day.

Here's a molecular one - https://www.amazon.com/Ozium-Original-Spray-Mist-Sprays/dp/B003VSECIY/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1536852426&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=ozium&psc=1&smid=A3NI681A613SJA

Warning, it's stupid powerful. Like, open your windows and leave the room for a bit.

I prefer Rocco & Roxie. It has never failed me and is way more effective, imo: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CKFL93K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HjKKDbZYH3BRH

First thing you're gonna hear on this sub is get the boys checked by a vet. With cats urination issues are sometimes symptoms of very serious and sometimes fatal conditions. What you're also gonna wanna do is:

1. Make sure the litter box is frequently scooped (at least once a day). And the entire box should be emptied and refilled fresh at least every few weeks. The standard rule for the number of litter boxes required is the number of cats plus one. So in an ideal world they should have access to 3 litter boxes. If that's not gonna happen and they just have the one then it needs to be scooped VERY frequently. Try and position the litter box near a problem area. It can be moved once the problem has been resolved but it will make the retraining easier. You can add Litter Attract to the litter box and that will make it more tempting for them to use it.
   
   
2. Cats will pee in the same area. The spots they have peed in need to be cleaned with an enzymatic cleaner like Natures Miracle. Nothing else will work. Even if it looks clean and smells clean to you, the cats will still smell it.
   
   
3. If the cats are causing a ruckus at night then they need to be played with more. Get some interactive toys like the wands and play with them until they pant. A tired cat is a good cat.
   
   
4. Many people on this sub recommend and use feline pheromone spray/diffusers/collars. Feliway is the top brand. It can help problem cats calm down and be more comfortable.
   
   I'd also recommend you or your parents watch some videos on youtube by Jackson Galaxy aka the Cat Whisperer. This guy knows his stuff. Here's a few videos to get started:
   1
   2
   3

She might have a UTI, and is associating the litter box with her pain. Take her to the vet for confirmation.

Clean the area with an enzyme cleaner. Add another litter box as /u/ajru222 suggested. You can also add a litter attractant.

I know of this product from two of my friends and I see it has many great reviews so you might want to try it. Good luck :)

If you can get this type of stuff it works really well. I've had to clean up my share of cat piss. https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Strength-Stain-Odor-Eliminator/dp/B00CKFL93K

Oh no!! This is supposed to be amazing at removing cat odors.

The one cat we rescued initially just peed...everywhere. On the chair, on the brand new mattress, shoes, towels...everything. Thankfully he's stopped. But, I feel your pain.

This stuff does wonders when my kitty with chronic diarrhea misses the litter box. Not sure how it would work for human poops.

http://www.amazon.com/Professional-Strength-Stain-Odor-Eliminator/dp/B00CKFL93K/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?ie=UTF8&ref_=s9_mbia_gw_d81_g199_i4

You should use an enzyme-based cleaner to take care of the smell, especially if it’s in carpet (some info as to why).

This one works pretty well.

http://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Health-Monthly-Monitor-Crystal/dp/B00AYT9ZXK

so far one amazon review claimed a color was indicated which led to a Vet putting the cat on an antibiotic. it's just hard to say how often your cat develops a problem that may later resolve itself naturally, so all this additive may have you doing is run to the Vet more often than may be necessary. a urinary tract infection may only require a diet adjustment to resolve itself, so if you use this detect product, learn more about what your cat should be eating in response to and to prevent infection, as more appropriate food will cost less in the long run than additional vet bills.

I don't know how to fix the whole problem, but maybe you should consider:

• Don't use vinegar to clean up urine. It's acidic, like urine, and may attract further urination. You need to get an enzymatic solution that's made for cleaning up biological messes (pee, poop, vomit, etc.) If you can't get some in a pet store nearby, you can order it by mail. You should go back and re-clean any previously soiled spots with it.
  
  
• Get them fixed immediately! You have multiple males, and a female. You should get them all fixed. Spraying and marking with urine are territorial behaviors. If nothing else, it will calm everybody down.
  
  Edit: Feliway is also available on Amazon by mail.

I've been using Sunny & Honey and am really liking it. My boyfriend loves the scent too. Haha.

Try Nature's Miracle urine remover, and then Bissel upholstery shampoo - a few reviews said it works for pet odors and stains and even projectile vomiting where Resolve failed.
I use Nature's Miracle products with my puppy when he has floor (wood floor, not carpet) accidents and it's like nothing ever happened.

Enzymatic cleaner plus upholstery cleaning machine?

We use this enzymatic cleaner for pet messes and it works for human pee too: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CKFL93K

I have this upholstery cleaning machine and it works pretty well - you can make your own cleaning solution instead of using their branded stuff, but it comes with some sample sizes of the branded stuff: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07D46F8S5/

Bambi used a covered litter box for a couple months but I recently took it off because I felt it would be quicker to clean. I have no problem with odor and I live in a 520 Sq. Ft. 1 bedroom apartment and her litter box is right outside my bedroom. It may be easier to just try to control the odor instead of getting him used to the covered box.

I use Precious Cat Ultra Premium Clumping Cat Litter and will sprinkle in ARM & HAMMER® Cat Litter Deodorizer Powder when I first replace her litter. Good luck.

This stuff is amazing!

It gets out animal pee smell better than anything I've ever used. I have a freaking super power sense of smell and it gets cat pee smell (which is the worst smell ever)out completely.

>Did you guys know that the doors, out of all things, can be FILTHY AS FUCK?!

Once a week I have to go through the house and wipe down the edges of all the doors, and the door frames. @@

For the microwave, you've gotten good advice. I take a pyrex glass measuring cup (2 cup size), almost fill it with water and then add a 1/4 cup lemon juice. Nuke that sucker on high for 2 minutes. Dip a sponge or a rag in the hot water (juggling the sponge from hand to hand until it's cool enough to barely handle), then wipe down the inside of the microwave.

How soon do you have until the family comes over? I get an orange pet cleaner from amazon that you mix with water and spray. It's worked well so far, our male cat likes to mark stuff in the basement. Just yesterday I had to wash DD's hockey bag with a shot of the orange stuff as TheCat got to it.

Three tips:

1. Socialize like crazy!
   
2. If there's one thing you should have in your house it's this: https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Strength-Stain-Odor-Eliminator/dp/B00CKFL93K
   
3. It'll be tough for like two months, trust me they come a long way in a short time!

I use this. The liquid needs to soak far enough down to touch everywhere the pee did. I poor some on and but fans by the mattress to dry it. Works like a charm.

Rocco & Roxie Professional... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J9MYM5O?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I usually just soak up as much as I can, sprinkle baking soda, and then vacuum it up. Also, invest in Nature's Miracle. BEST STUFF EVER. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^quaffle

Cat pee clean up stuff

she won't hit you!

> /u/MYOPATHYHURTS

• $38.97 The Elder Scrolls V: Skyrim Legendary Edition - Xbox 360 This way /u/MYOPATHYHURTS gets Skyrim plus more items!
  
  
  
  
• $2.98 Chex Cereal, Honey Nut, 13.8 Oz
  
  
  
  
• $6.99 Nature's Miracle Just for Cats Advanced Stain & Odor Remover, 24-Ounce Spray
  
  
  TOTAL: $48.94
  

This is whats recommended by that show on animal planet "my cat from hell" http://www.amazon.com/Fizzion-Empty-Spray-Bottle-Refills/dp/B009Z0TQNS/ref=pd_sim_petsupplies_6?ie=UTF8&refRID=0WN34ES1N5DPTEVPEHTE

https://www.amazon.com/Zero-Odor-Multi-Purpose-Household-Eliminator/dp/B001J0C3OQ

This stuff has worked wonders for me in situations like this. Inexpensive and effective. Definitely recommend it.

Try some sort of enzymes designed to clean up after pets, like this one

at the dollar store near me they have http://www.amazon.com/Ceva-Urine-Away-16-oz/dp/B002SQC7VY

It's not a lost cause. This is MAGIC

Also, look into the science of what cat pee actually is and you'll understand why bleach/baking soda/vinegar/99% of store bought solutions that claim to get rid of it don't remove the smell completely, just usually mask it. The only thing to break down cat urine is an enzyme cleaner.

Try this? https://smile.amazon.com/Pet-Stain-Odor-Miracle-Cleaner/dp/B00J4Z5B24

I've also had some people recommend this stuff to me http://www.amazon.com/Pet-Odor-Eliminator-Urine-Cleaner/dp/B00CKFL93K but I don't have any personal experience with it.

Nature's Miracle is essential. It will break down the urine. Otherwise your dog will still be able to smell it and may decide it's ok to pee there again.

https://www.amazon.com/Natures-Miracle-Remover-Lavender-32-Ounce/dp/B008RGWFRA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1497668055&sr=8-4&keywords=nature%27s+miracle

Welp, L's vomit yesterday is like some 24 hours off, 24 hours on sort of thing. First one today hit the hardwood floor and then the second was a trail over one of the rugs. I've cleaned it, used enzymatic cleaner and steamed it, but need to let it fully dry to see if I got it all. What's everyone's favorite enzyme cleaner? I'm using this one but maybe someone uses something better.


Also, while running to get more paper towel, which was entirely my fault, I jammed two toes and most likely broke the pinky toe because it's twice as fat and covered in bruising. Basically, my weekend can only improve.

This is the kind I use. Any cat enzyme cleaner would work though.

Rocco & Roxie Supply Professional Strength Stain and Odor Eliminator, Enzyme-Powered Pet Odor and Stain Remover for Dogs and Cat Urine, Spot Carpet Cleaner for Small Animal, 32 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CKFL93K/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_q8A8Cb5VEC8H7

It's a bit pricey, but if it stops the pee it's worth every penny. If you are struggling to get the pee smell out of anything, I highly recommend this cleaner

Nature's Miracle Pet Urine Destroyer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003I5ZR16/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_358BzbBP0520V

Just let the cleaner soak on the pee spot for a while and it removes the smell. Freaking magical because cat pee is so awful smelling. Both of these products are sold at Petco btw, so no need to order it online if you want/need it NOW.

If you aren't already, make sure you use "enzyme" cleaning products for the initial cleanup. Something like this. Normal cleaning products don't fully break down the urine, leaving traces which dogs can smell, and are encouraged to come back to. Other than that, I think Foe Hammer pretty much summed it up.

Adolescent regression! This happened to mine as well. I was shocked at first but asked my vet about it and she said it was normal that dogs between 4 mos- adulthood to suddenly "forget" their training because they are becoming bolder and more independent. It will just take extra and consistent effort on your part to solidify his housebreaking. Same techniques as you used to do when she was a pup- directly outside if you catch her in the middle of an accident. Frequent outdoor trips with her and praise when she goes, etc.


Interesting, I found that this is a great time to really solidify dog leash manners/ stay/ heal/ no jumping etc. It is EXTRA challenging but if you can lock these skills down during adolescence, they will likely stick through adulthood.


And for pet cleaning products that are specifically designed to remove the desire for dogs to remark, I'd use an enzymatic cleaner. Like this one.


Good luck and enjoy your pup's teenage angst. :)

I'm in the same boat. Have two male cats who used to be pretty stinky. First of all, clean out the box t least once a day. Secondly, consider one of these litter holding things like a litter genie; [I use this one. Bigger and better] (https://www.amazon.com/Lucky-Champ-LUC-004-Training/dp/B004MGA422/ref=sr_1_59?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1492105958&sr=1-59&keywords=litter+genie). And finally, [get an air purifier and put it close to the litter box. Even a cheap one can be a lifesaver] (https://www.amazon.com/Hamilton-Beach-True-Plug-Mount-Eliminator/dp/B003PWSQMY/ref=sr_1_27?ie=UTF8&qid=1492105756&sr=8-27&keywords=air+purifier) Also, [there's this baking soda litter deodorizer that can be pretty helpful] (https://www.amazon.com/Arm-Hammer-Litter-Deodorizer-Pack/dp/B00C2DJGG2/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1492106132&sr=1-2&keywords=litter+baking+soda)

Relax

We use this cleaner for both dog and cat messes and it works great. Try the cat one out first and see what happens.

Thats why I use enzyme cleaners

This shit will clean it up: https://www.amazon.com/Eco-88-Pet-Stain-Odor-Remover/dp/B0013R2B88

Its amazing and has worked wonders on old stains in my house

Not sure how well this works on leather, but Zero Odor has worked for every stinky thing I've sprayed it on. It seems to work better than fabreeze, in my opinion. Once it dries it doesn't leave an air-freshener scent either.

We have laminate floors thankfully! We've been using this Rocco & Roxie enzymatic cleaner, but maybe it's not working? Do you have any recommendations?

We're trying to come up with any possible changes, but everything has really been so similar! I'm going to keep wracking my brain about any other changes we may not have noted. Thank you for your response!

https://www.amazon.com/Rocco-Roxie-Supply-Co-Professional/dp/B00CKFL93K/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=enzymatic+cleaner+for+urine&qid=1554912643&s=gateway&sr=8-3

You need an enzyme cleaner, like this one then sprinkle some of this on there then sweep up in a couple days. You can get this stuff at walmart or a pet store.

My wife forgot a few pounds of ground beef in her car over the weekend in 90+ degree heat, so who knows how hot it got in the car. These products got most if not all of the smell out. Replacing the cabin air filter took care of the rest.

I've been dealing with a very similar problem. In my case, my cat was fine health-wise (vet trips, blood/urine tests, etc). She was urine marking next to whatever litter box my other cat used. She ruined the hardwood floors at my front door when the litter boxes were in the entry closet, she peed on the kitchen cabinets when the boxes were nearby, she peed on the carpet and walls next to the litter box when it was in a different place.

Vet tried giving me anti-anxiety medication, but she wouldn't take it no matter how I tried giving it to her. Even in a compound formula that tasted like fish. I ended up having to separate my two cats, putting my other one downstairs in my rec room (large open area that she favors), and keeping the problem cat on the main floor.

She still peed outside the box that they had used to share, so I put a new litter box in a new location that had never been used before. She kept doing it, which the vet thinks is because it became normal behavior for her after 5-6 years.

So I put the litter box in the bath tub of a spare bathroom, and put down several of these moisture absorbent mats next to the tub. They soak up all liquids instantly and do a pretty good job holding in the urine smell. She started peeing on just the mats, finally eliminating the need to constantly clean up after her. I just put the mats in the washing machine once a week to clean them. And get this - she's gotten so used to peeing on the mats, that if she needs to go while they're being cleaned, she'll actually pee IN the litter box, but only when the mats aren't there. Weird, huh. They've been a life saver. And amazingly, despite being separated, both of my cats are happier than they've ever been.

Also, I used this bio-enzyme cleaner to clean up the urine stains. It contains bacteria that feed on the urine crystals. Does a really good job.

Urine away!!!!!!! This has enzyme removal. I have hard wood floors and it is a miracle!!! Tried everything!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002SQC7VY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1517771231&sr=8-3&keywords=cat+urine+away&dpPl=1&dpID=41%2Bl59103NL&ref=plSrch

Here's a suggestion. Pretty much any enzymatic cleaner from a pet place should work though. A lot of regular cleaners contain ammonia, which only attracts them more. The enzymes "eat" the ammonia molecules so they aren't there anymore.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CKFL93K

also

I've used Nature's Miracle on a smaller scale -- you might check into that.

I always spray this stuff and let it soak for a few minutes and wipe it up, and then I have a Bissell ProHeat 2X Revolution Pet Pro that I use their pet odor eliminator with, and I usually go over it for about 30 minutes and spray some febreeze on it. Usually once I'm done, the smell is practically non-existent.

Find where that cat pee smell is coming from—the sooner the better. Make sure to clean whatever it is with an enzymatic cleaner (I've had good luck with this). Otherwise, the scent can really set in, and it can be hard to get cats to stop peeing in a spot that smells like their bathroom.

Also: make sure you have enough litter boxes (maybe put an extra one near where she peed).

When my new kitten was peeing on the curtains and carpet I thought I was never going to get rid of the smell. It lasted for weeks and during the summer, which made it seem like the smell was amplified with heat and humidity. I ended up ordering THIS SPRAY and following the directions to spray a lot, then vacuum within 15 minutes. Literally, have not even gotten a whiff of the smell since having gotten this.

As others have said, get Nature's Miracle. That stuff works so well, I use it for non animal related carpet cleanups. My puppy somehow got ahold of a bottle of tire slime that was 5 feet up (it's like he miracled to the floor) and punctured the bottle. Big green spot on the carpet. I sprayed it down either NM, and all evidence is gone. I didn't do any cleanup at all, just spraying it down.

I would suggest getting a bottle if it that comes with a motorized gun. Makes everything a lot easier. If you have a steam cleaner, pick up this as well. Both are worthwhile to use regardless of owning a pet; I'll always recommend these to anyone that has carpet in their residence.

Quick edit: Oh and don't go for a cheaper or a better known brand. I made that mistake. At one point I did a side by side comparison on the same spot. Wasn't even close.

Nature's Miracle was mediocre.

Rocco and Roxies has worked much better for us.