Best cctv lenses according to redditors

$17 for the head.

Or, you can buy the same exact thing for $300 from Amazon...

That one on amazon you found looks really bad to be honest. When something breaks you'll have trouble finding a replacement, the radio is proprietary and will never work with anything else, it's got tons of plastic parts, and the battery is probably crap. Even if I'm completely wrong about it and it isn't garbage, there's no way it's worth $450, since you can actually get a pretty decent set up with that much.

There aren't going to be many good full kit options out there. The only one even worth considering is the eachine wizard, and even that is dubious at best. Instead you'll want to buy the radio, goggles, and then a BNF (bind and fly) drone all separately, which means you choose which receiver to put in it (usually when you buy it, you select which one when you add it to your cart and they'll put it in for you), and when you get it you just bind it to your radio.

For a radio, get the Taranis QX7. There are several options to consider, but you really can't go wrong with this, it's worth every penny: https://www.amazon.com/Frsky-Taranis-Transmitter-Racing-Drones/dp/B06XQWQ7C3/ref=sr_1_1?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1510987554&sr=1-1&keywords=QX7

This is a FRSKY radio, which means when you're buying the drone, just select FRSKY version so you get the right receiver in it.

Check out the channel uavfutures, he reviews a lot of prebuilt stuff, as opposed to other channels which review individual components. He does really clickbaity titles which can be difficult to get through, but check out his playlists as they're a bit better organized.

For goggles, there are so many to consider across a huge price range. The big two "types" are box style vs compact style. Boxes are big and bulky, but also a lot cheaper. Usually under $100. Most compact goggles are way up in the $300-$500 range, but there are a handful like the eachine EV100 and F640 that manage to get that slick form factor in at just over $100. Here's UAVFutures' playlist on them: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLP0PoGwU8OPYW549moGE6OSj5qNa8vx67, but if you prefer written down with way more detail and comparisons, Oscarliang is a fantastic resource as well: https://oscarliang.com/fpv-goggles-review-fatshark-skyzone/

It's also worth noting, since you asked, that latency is not really going to be an issue as long as you're using fully analog 5.8GHZ, which is going to be basically anything you see on uavfutures. Latency is only a thing on digital, like those shitty wifi cameras that connect to your smartphone. There are a couple digital FPV systems worth using, but they're still very new and thus very expensive.

Field of view is very important. The more you see, the more awareness you have. However that's a property of the camera lens, not the goggles. You can also swap out the lens very easily if you want it wider or different. I personally use this lens which is branded for gopro, but they're all the same.

Field of view in goggles is different, it's the size of the image in front of you. Getting wider field of view in this case won't actually allow you to see more, it'll just be stretched. You don't want to go too small or it'll be hard to see, but you also don't want to go too large or you'll have to move your eyes around the screen to focus on different things. Not too many goggles go outside of either extreme, so you probably won't need to worry about this part.

For the drone itself, again, UAVFutures. He reviews a ton. Just watch through a bunch of them and see which one catches your eye: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLP0PoGwU8OPaYMlsaWxSg7xr7xZXbxhf1

Oh, no, I misunderstood you. I have two cameras on my quad. One is for transmitting video to me in realtime (HS1177), and the other is for capturing HD video to look at/make videos later (GoPro Hero 5 Session).

Assuming you picked up one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Eachine-700TVL-Degree-Camera-Transmission/dp/B00WJFKXS8

That video transmitter outputs unfiltered (bad) 5v (good) to the camera. You can add an LC filter later if you notice bad signal when adding throttle.

LC Filter: https://www.amazon.com//dp/B018X744TO/

Note that cmos cameras generally have trouble with detail in changing light conditions. Since you are getting 5v out, you can easily upgrade this later to a much nicer ccd camera (though you might need to solder some wires together).

The gold standard of fpv cameras is the hs1177, this one is my favorite:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E6GPYS6/

You have a good working setup though, I would only upgrade as you go

BrainExploder made a video about this. He used this lens and this IR Filter.

But for a few dollars more you can get a good camera and transmitter and get much better video quality with far better range and much better penetration:

https://www.amazon.com/Crazepony-RunCam-600TVL-Blocked-Multicopter/dp/B01F381J9Y/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ID6G1GE/

http://www.progressiverc.com/emax-f4-magnum-all-in-one-fpv-stack.html?utm_source=google_shopping&gclid=CjwKCAjwrO_MBRBxEiwAYJnDLOU7gvwozcaxsP6uLRPXzWpezo6Gmu5iwhYopDzJr0ThJrWU5ynL2BoCkAYQAvD_BwE

110.00 dollars

http://www.armattanquads.com/Chameleon-6-inch/

95.00

RunCam Swift RR FPV Camera Rotor Riot Special Edition FOV 110 600TVL DC5-17V Wide Voltage IR Blocked CCD NTSC for Racing Drone Quadcopter Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N2PN1S6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_vRPxGmnvgCZMF

44.00

http://m.helidirect.com/item/3437313331

They are running a sale so 85.00


Total is 334.00 dollars

Is there a way to manually change the output from say originally 25mW to 200mW about 20min after turning on drone?

Would [this] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R7TKGR5/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07R7TKGR5&pd_rd_w=kNSSI&pf_rd_p=8a8f3917-7900-4ce8-ad90-adf0d53c0985&pd_rd_wg=17nIX&pf_rd_r=2A1C0K3MB4X5KKE432SZ&pd_rd_r=1754f076-7f29-11e9-8740-41568e48106d) be a good VTX for a [runcam camera] (https://www.amazon.com/RunCam-Micro-Eagle-Camera-Global/dp/B079LX5VRL/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=runcam+eagle&qid=1557072434&s=gateway&sr=8-3)?

Assuming the camera and transmitter work fine together, what do I have to look for in terms of a FPV goggle? Does the goggle have to be compatible with camera or transmitter or both?

I havent found any great option for both sniping and cqb. I picked up a few different lenses and even sanded my runcam 2 housing to fit an adjustable lens. What I found out, it that it is easier and almost cheaper to get a cheap $25-35 1080p 60fps Chinese action cam for cqb, and got a $10 CCTV lens from Amazon.

uxcell Replacement Black CCTV Box Camera 25mm Focal Length Board Lens F1.2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N3ZPTE6?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

So the lens you'd be looking for is a ##mm, 1/3” m12 lens. (##mm: higher ## = more zoom, lower = less zoom). You will also probably require a 6.5mm IR filter, otherwise your quality will be purple and fuzzy, due to the lack of an IR filter.

Cameras are hard to just say "this is the best" because it's really about personal choice with the FOV. Some like narrow, others like ultra wide, others like right in the middle. That being said, I quite enjoy this for the wide FOV and the decent price.

can try this for now. it does add a bit more latency than fpv goggles but it’s not bad. i’ve flown tiny whoops with it.

https://www.amazon.com/Eachine-Recevier-battery-Smartphone-Crazepony/dp/B075WQVKHY

did the opposite(out can see my luke skywatcher cam time lapse in this sub.. , so you should be able to disassemble and install a narrower FOV lens, possibly with some magnification, i think the built in lens is a 2.1mm or so lens, going to a 3 or 6mm lens should give you more telephoto. here are some M12 threaded lenses you can try em out. A word of caution, if you replace the lens, mark a line on your existing lens so you can blindly put it back, you may not be able to scan the QR code if you bump the setup button. with a wrong lens in it. https://smile.amazon.com/HonYan-3-6mm-Security-Surveillance-Camera/dp/B0719BMH6M/ref=sr_1_9?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1539460487&sr=1-9&keywords=board+camera+lens

Sorry for the wall of text. Attempted to submit this as it's own topic but I guess it never got approved.

So I recently just got all the parts for my first quad. I've been doing fairly well with the soldering and have been watching a lot of youtube videos regarding how to wire it up, but I'm still having issues.

Full parts list:

• Frame: Realacc x210
  
• FC: Flip32 Omnibus F3 AIO
  
• PDB: Matek XT60(included w/ frame)
  
• VTx- Eachine Tx801
  
• FPV cam: Eachine 1000TVL
  
• Receiver: FrSky XSR
  
• ESCs: Racerstar RS30A
  
• Motors: Racerstar 2205 2300kv
  
  FC Wiring Diagram: http://www.dronetrest.com/uploads/db5290/original/2X/6/673c43bd58214a6232f858a7d22ff07add0ff1da.png
  
  To my understanding, everything I've done so far should be OK-
  
  I have the ESCs wired to the PDB- two grounds per ESC, one voltage per ESC, and one signal wire going to the motor signal port on the FC.
  
  I have the 12v voltage regulator on the PDB powering the VTX, with the signal wire going to the Video out pin on the FC.
  
  I have the main voltage straight from the XT60 going to the Ground and VBAT pins on the FC.
  
  I have the receiver entirely wired to the FC- 3 wires above the motor, with one going to the TX pin next to the RAM pin.
  
  I also have the camera entirely hooked up to the FC, in the 3 pins above where I have my VTX wired.
  
  I have the 5v pin and the bottom leftmost RAM pin wired together to provide 5v power to the camera.
  
  Here's the issues I'm running into:
  
  1- Don't know which wires to cross from the motors to the ESCs to reverse direction ( Would rather not rely on software to configure direction)
  
  2- When I plug in a battery to test things out, I get a video signal to my FPV goggles but it's just a black screen. No actual video. When I tested them and hooked them up directly to the PDB and the signal wires to each other, it worked fine, but I would rather not do that as it won't give me an OSD.
  
  3- After wiring the RAM & 5v pins together to provide power to the camera, the FC won't power on ( Probably incidentally causing issue 2).
  
  4- How the hell do I mount a camera on this frame?????? Did I get the wrong type? Would this be a better bet? Or slightly cheaper? How do I actually mount these? There's no mounting holes on the bottom of the frame.
  
  4 subsection 1- I've attempted to resolve this issue on my own- Found a model on Thingiverse and printed it, but just wasn't able to get good tolerances, even after a significant amount of sanding. Model in question. Second attempt. Third attempt, no place to mount.
  
  
  Any and all help or advice is extremely appreciated.

I bought the Wizard and I LOVE IT! It's plenty of power to start with some very solid components for the price. I wanted to build one myself as well... But then I found the Wizard.

I'll give you a list of the things that I bought along side the Wizard.

1. RunCam Swift 2 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MY9IFJU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
   
   
2. Quanum Cyclops V1 Headset (about 35$ on HobbyKing). The Quanum Cyclops is a wonderful headset for the price. The thing you need to watch out for when looking at cheap headsets is whether or not you get static or a bluescreen when you start losing signal. These headsets give you static. That is most certainly what you want. (https://hobbyking.com/en_us/quanum-cyclops-fpv-goggles.html)
   
   
3. Two clover leaf antennas (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M9IER0E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
   
   
4. x3 3s batteries. (The other great thing about the Wizard is it's 4s ready for when you are ready for more power).
   
   
5. Keenstone UP100AC LiPo Charger. (https://www.amazon.com/Keenstone-UP100AC-Battery-Minimum-Balance/dp/B01JV826I0/ref=sr_1_1?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1492193093&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=Lipo+charger&psc=1)
   
   
6. Parallel charging board (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UBOAXEI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
   
   
7. XTronic Soldering Station (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DGZFSNE/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
   
   
8. FrSky XSR Receiver (https://www.amazon.com/FrSky-2-4GHz-Receiver-Output-Support/dp/B01HZB6XTI/ref=sr_1_1?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1492193206&sr=1-1&keywords=FrSky+XSR)
   
   
9. FrSky Taranis X9D Plus (https://www.amazon.com/FrSky-Taranis-2-4ghz-ACCST-Transmitter/dp/B01D7QHB9G/ref=sr_1_2?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1492193250&sr=1-2&keywords=taranis)

it is the Eachine EF-01 camera. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HZ63JD6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(the first picture on amazon should help with my description)
It is kind of oddly connected. The camera has a connector on the back of it instead of wires. It included a connector (that looks very similar to the battery connectors) that 2 wires coming out of that. I Soldered those two wires to the top of the board where the battery input is on the bottom. I then rubber band the camera in place.

So essentially I have soldered a red and a black wire to the points where the battery inputs where already soldered to the inductrix board. On the other ends of the red and black wires I added, there is a connector that plugs into the camera.

Really?! I should have mentioned I have a Runcam Swift FPV camera. This one:

Crazepony RunCam Swift 600TVL FPV Camera 2.1mm Lens OSD DC 5-17V IR Blocked for Multicopter

maybe something like this? https://www.amazon.com/Vicdozia-Replacement-Degree-Camera-Cameras/dp/B015EE7G58/

​

or this? https://www.amazon.com/Yohii-Fisheye-Megapixel-BL17820-5MP-Panoramic/dp/B07DJZJD8V/

The Armadillo, specifically. I'm trying to choose between the Betaflight F3 FC and the XracerF3. The Betaflight F3 has a PDB and the OSD on board, but I'm not sure it has a regulator for the camera I'm planning on using.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9E33XA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FJM6ybRDZN741

This is the camera that most people are putting on tiny whoops(really small drones). I've used this exact one, and it works pretty good. It will only give you about 50 ft of range though.


If you are looking for more range, you will have the buy a camera and a transmitter, such as these two:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N948FF7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xMM6ybVKT9E49

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E6GPYS6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wNM6ybJQT95DW


EDIT: you would also need a recover for the video.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H36AIGY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6PM6ybWV3Y0EJ

This puts out RCA to a monitor of your choice

I never powered on the Tx without an antenna, and it still transmits audio.

Crap I am using a 2.4 ghz frsky. Should I sell this and get a different frequency, one that doesn't require a HAM license? (if there is one)

I was using a crazepony camera
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018K13XHW

Edit: If I am going to get a different system going I am going to try and sell this one so I may as well try and get it working before that.

Are there any systems of tx's and rx's that would be around 100$? I have the camera and screen so all I need are those.

Edit2: So I just took out a voltmeter and measured the pins that go to the camera and guess what I found, the camera has no voltage going to it, the board may be fried. This is pretty dissappointing but I guess I can try hooking the camera up directly to the battery.

Edit3: well it works now, I solved my own problem... I also see no video feed interference with my transmitter turned on. Would it be good to put a cloverleaf antenna onto the vtx? I don't know much about this but I think it would help.

One more quick question, how much would I be risking by flying for 30 minutes with fpv without a ham license. I tried once and I failed (didn't study enough) and I didn't try again because I couldn't get it to work. I am going out to fly this weekend but the next test is in a month. I know other people in my club with a ham license so I could "hide" behind them if needed. I am just super excited to try it out and don't want to wait another month. Currently I do all of my testing in less than 1 min spurts at 2-3 AM to avoid others, (although I shouldn't need to do it any more). I have the 1W transmitter too so I don't know how easy it would be to detect.

here is one I found on amazon with a large lens, I know you have to remove the lens on the pi camera but I do not believe the lens would screw directly into the module. I used an adapter because of two reasons, the tutorial i was following did and I wanted to keep pressure off the module because I was using a 175mm telescopic lens and I was worried about the torque pressure. I'll do some more research and either edit the post or reply to you, whichever comes first.

Woops, not sure where it went. Here:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015EE7G58/

I got this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015EE7G58/ and adjusted the ring on it until it was focused.

Not sure if you screwed the adjustment ring all the way on, screwed the lens all the way in, and then unscrewed the lens and check your goggles until it's focused. Then bring the adjuster ring down until the lens is locked in place, focused.

Same experience, I tried the one below and couldn't get it to focus

edit: It works! I really forcefully cranked it down hard with my fingers and was able to get it to focus

Vicdozia 2.5mm Replacement 170 Degree Wide Angle Camera DV Lens for Gopro HD Hero 1 2 SJCAM SJ4000 HS1177 FPV Runcam Swift Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015EE7G58/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_2yd4ybympEhXK

I have the following (I think it is this exact model). I can pan and tilt, it has a slot for a memory card, and the app is super easy.

https://www.amazon.com/Homdox-Wireless-Network-Security-Surveillance/dp/B014FNQAFG/

You mean something like this? I've been meaning to buy one and try it myself

https://www.amazon.com/Phillips-Screw-Head-Pinhole-Camera/dp/B0146RW8ZM

Hey Master, I have a 25mm lens from here and I'll probably have to get an adapter or make my own so it can focus properly

I paid the equlivant of that for my lens, but I've since found them much cheaper http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00N3ZPTE6

25mm zoom lens, which i plan on getting

12mm zoom lens, which i have now

you would need to get the ir filter, as the lens don't have them

Game play footage:

did a preview with the zoom lens in the top corner

My other views have some footage from the camera, now that i have it set on top of my optic

Ill have more footage this weekend form the mobius.

use this one

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